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General Woodworking

drawer prep......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 02/08/2018 - 1:00am
I was hoping to get the 4 1/2 together sans the knob and tote but it didn't happen. I started to do it but noticed a paint boo boo that I had to touch up. Tomorrow I should be able to get it put together without the wooden parts. The knob and tote still need to stripped and sanded so I can put a finish on them.

came in today
I'm thinking of using this on the 4 1/2 tote and knob. The only problem I see with it is that I've used shellac on every one of the other rehabs so far. I if put on this one it will stick out like the red headed stuttering step child. I've been thinking about it since I put it on the bench on which way to go with it. I think I'll put it on the 4 1/2 and if I like it, the 5 1/2 will get it too. It has shellac which I can easily strip off.

600 grit shine
Right below my baby finger is a patch on the lever cap. The sanding up to 600 grit blended it into the lever cap and made it noticeably less visible. I spent a few extra minutes sanding it more but I don't think I'll get it any better than this. I thought of buying another lever cap but I am going to keep this one.

the paint boo boo
I got this when I scraped the seats down here. I also have another one on both cheek walls and up by the upper frog seats. I got the ones here from sanded the frog seats.

drawer stock 1x8 - actually 7 1/2"

48 inches long
If I am lucky I could get two boards out of each about 3 1/2 inches wide. If I go this way I can get one drawer out of one board. That isn't always the case though. Straightening out one edge can eat up a lot of width if it is bowed or wonky in any other way. I don't have good luck with planing multiple boards to the same width and that is where I tend to lose a lot of width.

I bought 4 boards because my original intent was to use two boards to make one drawer. I am going to stick to that because I want the drawers to be 4 1/2 inches deep. Allowing for the groove and bottom will give an interior drawer depth of 4".

brown and red knot
The brown knot is on the side of the board I'll be keeping. After the drawer is done I'll epoxy the brown knot so it won't shrink and fall out.

this brown knot fell out
This knot was there when I brought this home. No matter as it is on the waste side of the board.

the knot board will give up the two backs

some weird grain about 2/3 of the way down
The straightest grained boards will be used for the sides. I don't like the grain swirl in this board so I'll use it for the fronts.

reference edge and face
 I ripped this a 16th over. I will plane the reference face flat before I cross cut out the drawer parts.

they are pretty straight and flat
I was very encouraged after looking at these tonight. I bought them on sunday and before I sawed them out they looked like this. Usually 1x pine from Lowes cups and bows after one day in the shop. Tomorrow I'll flatten one side and remove any twist. I'll let that sit and sticker for another day. I might get to dovetailing by friday.

scraped the front knob
I sanded it after I had scraped all of the finish off.

filed a fresh burr
raising a burr on the knife is very easy to do and it only takes a few seconds. I file the bevel on the sheet rock knife a few strokes. That puts a burr on the opposite side and it usually lasts long enough to scrape the whole knob.

ready for sanding
I can tell I scraped all the finish off because there isn't anything shiny left anywhere on the knob.

My father-in-law is out the ICU and on the regular ward. He may be discharged tomorrow to the rehab unit which is next door to the hospital. It doesn't look like he'll be going home but to a nursing home after rehab.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Henry Stanley of "Dr Livingston, I presume....." fame fought for both the south and the north in the American Civil War?

Handplane Basics

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 02/07/2018 - 12:07pm

Woodworkers tend to have very strong feelings about the different ways of doing things – and handplanes is one of those subjects where opinions can vary wildly and discussions can even get pretty heated. There are three main arguments about handplanes: bevel orientation, number of planes to use and body type. Bevel orientation refers to the way the iron sits in the plane. Shown above are a low angle bevel-up […]

The post Handplane Basics appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Building Bench #18 – III

The Barn on White Run - Wed, 02/07/2018 - 5:37am

With the bench “assembled” I turned it over halfway and rough trimmed the bottoms of the legs. Even though I was handling it by myself, wrestling with a 350-pound behemoth is fairly straightforward if I am careful and make sure I am actually handling half or less of the total weight, which is the case if I am rolling or spinning it.  With the legs cut to rough length I rolled it the rest of the way over so I could work on flattening the top for a couple of hours.

With the bench on its feet, but on a rolling cart so I could move it easily,  I set about to installing the planing stop I had already glued up.  I planed it such that the fit was very tight, counting on a few humidity cycles to induce ccompression fit on both the stop and the mortise in which it resides in the hopes of establishing a nice firm fit in the end.  I’d wanted to put a full width (of the block) toothed tip on the stop but I did not have the piece of scrap steel in the drawer that could suffice so I just used what I had.  I filed the teeth, drilled and countersunk the holes for some honkin’ big screws and assembled the stop.  I also excavated the top of the bench so the entire assembly is flush.

photo courtesy of J. Rowe

photo courtesy of J. Hurn

With that I cut and affixed temporary(?) stretchers to the legs to support the shelf, Kreg screw style (without the Kreg jig), which on a decently built Roubo or Nicholson bench is the only functional purpose for stretchers.  If mortised stretchers are needed to stabilize the bench structure, it wasn’t built well enough.  Using scraps from the pile I cut and laid the shelf boards and attached the vise and for now, it was done.  Come summer I will flatten the top again and call it quits.  As it was the bench served my needs perfectly in Williamsburg to give me both a perfectly functioning work station and a focus for my sermon on workbenches and holdfasts,

almost no shop time.......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 02/07/2018 - 12:26am
My father-in-law is still in ICU and his condition is unchanged. The doctors think that when he fell last week that it was caused by a stroke he suffered then and there. He also has mild dementia and that is getting worse with each passing week. It makes me sad me that he doesn't recognize his wife of almost 70 years anymore. He won't be going home but will going into a nursing home when and if he is discharged. That and this hospitalization, is the only time that he has ever been apart from his wife.

When I got home I could have spent more time in the shop but I didn't. I was thinking of my wife's father and my father. He passed on when he was 69. I could have gone and seen him at the hospital the night he was admitted but my wife's best friend was his nurse and she said he needed to rest and I should come see him the following day. He died the next morning at 0625 and I never got to see him. Not going to see him when I could have is a regret that I still feel over 20 years later.

frog is done
It took me a few minutes to get going here.The sanding broke me out of my funk but I didn't get the plane put back together. No matter as I didn't have much interest in doing that. I got the frog face sanded with 400 and 600 grit. I believe I found another step to add to my rehabbing.

been a while since I posted a blurry pic
What the pic is attempting to show is the comparison between the knob on left with Autosol on it and the knob on the right which was done with Bar Keeps Best Friend. I'll be putting Autosol on the knobs from now on. I will clean them first with Bar Keeps and use Autosol on them. The Autosol imparts a much higher shine and regular readers know how much I like shiny things.

Autosol on the frog
The pic doesn't show it that well but this frog looks great. I can still see a few scratch lines here and there but the face is shiny. I think I could shave with this because I can see myself in it. This may seem like a wasted step because who will see it? Me, and I will know that I have done it. I think it is just one step in the whole of making the plane look as good as I possibly can.

rough looking heel ends
I tried to sand this with the 150 grit sanding stick and it just laughed at me. It barely sanded a bit on the top and bottom edge. I reached for file because Ive found it is quick and easy to file any parts of the plane.

less then a minute on each side
The roughness is gone and there is bit of shine. I sanded it with the 150 grit sandpaper and it looks better now. Not as shiny smooth as the toe but much better than what it looked it.

who knew?
I sanded the lever cap up to 600 grit but the shine isn't as good as the frog face or the plane body. It is better, to my eye, then the patina look it had previously. I have sanded the caps on past rehabs but it was to remove rust, not raise a shine. I finished the plane body sanding too but didn't do the Autosol. Decided to quit here for the night. The sun will still rise tomorrow, I think.

tote 80% ready, knob 0%
Looking at these two pieces of wood made me think of what would happen to them if my dance ticket got punched tonight? Would someone even bother to put the 4 1/2 back together? Would they even know what these are for? While I was eating dinner I realized that it wouldn't mean diddly squat to me. But as long as my dance card is still active it will.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Brazilian jockey Jorge Ricardo recently tied record holder Canadian jockey Russell Blaze with 12,488 wins?

Outlier

Inside the Oldwolf Workshop - Tue, 02/06/2018 - 8:51pm

Mrs. Wolf and I were determined to waste a day together in downtown La Crosse. There was a good sushi, a stop in the comic book store, a walk downtown, coffee, and a couple hours inside our favorite antique mall. Of course a few comic books followed me home but the other orphan was this unique turning saw I couldn't pass up.

If you've been reading here more than a second you know I'm enamoured of the old ways of working wood, not for love of the labor but in the belief there was something known that's been nearly forgotten. Turning saws and frame saws are not a new obsession. Making one has been on my "list" for too long. I have the hardware and blades sent to me by a friend, but other things seem to bump it off the top of the list.

Still when lifted this saw from the peg board hook to have a look I wasn't sure at first I was seeing it right.




I've only ever seen these saws with tenons on the ends of the cross arm and mortises in the uprights. This outlier turns that assumption on it's head. And I'll admit the construction in this way seems more straight forward than the more traditional route.




The cross arm falls on a small flat on the upright and is balanced on a moulded "button" (for lack of a better term)


I decided I had to bring it home and give it a test out to see if this was actually a usable form or if it was a ticking time bomb of tension. After replacing the two wraps of supplied bailing twine with some heavy duty linen cording, giving the saw teeth a light brush pass sharpening and tensioning the works up I was very happy to find I had a useable tool in my hands instead of just a tool shaped object.

The tensioning paddle is an obvious later replacement, probably added simultaneously to the bailing twine's arrival, but the rest of the piece carries all the layout lines and subtleties of being made with hand tools. Clearly the maker/owner J. Tonning was proud of the work as he stamped his name on each part on nearly every surface.


I'm more than happy to add this weirdo to my nest of saws and given time may make another just like it. Enjoy the photos.













Ratione et Passionis
Oldwolf
Categories: General Woodworking

Making Winding Sticks for Flattening Workbench Tops

Wood and Shop - Tue, 02/06/2018 - 5:29pm
WHAT ARE WINDING STICKS? Winding sticks are traditional tools used for aiding in flattening boards for furniture making. They help a woodworker know when there is "wind" or twisting in their board. With the introduction of power tools, the use of winding sticks has dwindled because the power jointer &

How to Set Bent Teeth on a Japanese Style Saw

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 02/06/2018 - 7:46am

I really like Japanese style saws and I especially appreciate their contribution in the classroom. First, thanks to their ingenious tooth geometry, and the fact that they are so thin compared to their Western counterparts, they are easy to use and require little effort when pulling through a cut. Secondly, their teeth are hardened to a higher degree than their Western brethren’s which makes them usable for an exceptionally longer […]

The post How to Set Bent Teeth on a Japanese Style Saw appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

February Poll: Music in Woodworking Videos

Highland Woodworking - Tue, 02/06/2018 - 7:00am

I’d like to take a vacation, but who has time?
I’d like to take a day off, but who has time?
I’d like to have an afternoon to work on a stool I started four months ago, but who has time?

It seems we’re a busy people, always on the go.

I get up at 4:45am every morning and walk three miles. I get ready for work and arrive a little before 8 AM. At lunch, I work on Sunday School lessons two to four days a week (some go quickly, some go slowly), and the other days I write for this or that magazine assignment. I go back to work and stay until 7 PM.

8 to 12 Noon on Saturdays.

On rare occasions, I take a break during lunch and watch a woodworking video, which are very popular these days throughout the woodworking community. Sometimes I watch part of a woodworking video when I’m assembling and stirring one of the five or six lunch salads I eat each week, before I settle in to writing.

Those moments are precious, and I want to make the most of them. That’s why I ask the question, “Do you like music in your woodworking videos?”

I think it’s a waste.

Don’t get me wrong. I like music. I have 13 gigabytes of music on my phone. I have so much music on my phone that, when I had a 16-gigabyte iPhone, I was limited to taking no more than three photographs at a time before I had to email those to myself and erase them before the storage could fit more.

But, who has time? It typically takes me about four minutes to assemble and stir a salad at lunchtime. After that, it’s down to work. I simply don’t want to spend two of those minutes (or 30 seconds, for that matter) listening to music. Just take me right to the meat of the woodworking project, if you please. In fact, if there is music and/or an introductory section to the video, I’ll often fast forward a bit. As often as not I’ll overshoot, which ends up costing me more time, but, I can’t help it, I have no patience.

I get some looks, but I take this bowl to lunch with me when I’m eating a salad, so I can dump the fast-food ingredients into the bowl and mix them without spilling the makings all over the place, as would happen with the low-capacity containers the salads come in. Besides, I like my dressing uniformly spread throughout the salad. What can I say? I like what I like.

Now, is the music going to make me stop watching? Hardly.

Will I troll someone’s videos because they have music in them? Would I write to a fellow woodworker to ask him or her to eliminate the music?

Who has time?

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The post February Poll: Music in Woodworking Videos appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Building Bench #18 – II

The Barn on White Run - Tue, 02/06/2018 - 5:05am

While the glue for the laminated slab was setting I turned my attention to the legs and their integral tenons.  As in previous efforts the three laminae of the leg are glued up with the center lamina off-set from the outer two by a distance equal to the thickness of the slab plus a smidge, using decking screws and fender washers as the clamping mechanism.  These are removed after they have done their duty.

If I did my layout and glue-up of the top slab correctly, and cut the dovetail pins accurately on the tops of the legs,  the double tenons are a perfect fit for the mortises already created in the top slab so all that is needed to put them together is a gentle tap to drive them home.  Since the bottoms of the legs need to be trimmed to matching lengths ex poste the protruding excess is no bother to me.

Before I do that, however, I de-clamp the slab after letting it sit overnight and spend an hour or so getting the underside flat enough to seat the legs evenly.  I do not care about the underside being smooth, merely flat.  A sharp scrub plane and fore plane make short work of it, as I said it was a little over an hour to get it to an acceptable point.

For this bench I did something I had not done before and remain unsure as to whether I would do it again.  Since I was installing a vintage screw and nut from my stash I decided to inset the nut into the back side of the front left leg, where the leg vise would be installed since I am right handed (if you are left handed it goes at the other end).  Doing this was no particular bother but I am unconvinced of its efficacy or necessity.  I also cut the through-mortise on the lower leg for the pin bar of the movable chop/jaw.

Before long I was assembling the bench and as you can see the space was ridiculously tight with not only this bench but two ripple molding machines being tuned up for the conference.  Since this is the only heated working space I have, everything that needed to be worked on for WW18thC was there.  It got to be pretty chaotic for a while.  I am not particularly tidy as a workman and that shortcoming becomes really evident at times like this.

At this point the bench was assembled and I was at the 12-hour mark for the project.

closing in on the 4 1/2......

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 02/06/2018 - 1:17am
I have noticed a few issues with rehabbing so many tools lately. Doing this generates a lot of dirty, fine metallic dust. And I mean a lot of it. I have had 4 eye infections doing these and I'm sure it was from having dust on my fingers and wiping my nose or forehead. I said that I would wear gloves and dust mask but I wasn't very diligent in doing that. Another problem was getting the dust on my clothes and bringing it upstairs. That wasn't to bad of a problem but one plane I did, the dust it generated had a stench to it that would make a buzzard gag. So when I resume rehabbing in a few weeks I'll try to remember to use gloves, a dust mask, and wear a work apron.

from coat #1
Before I put on the second and final coat, I removed this from the sole.

ten seconds with 400 grit - you don't need a heavy grit
the body will be ready tomorrow
the frog is 99% done
I scraped the paint from the edges and sanded it with a 150 grit sandpaper stick.

trying toothpaste
I sanded this just enough to remove the paint. I am curious to see how toothpaste will work. I put it on the left side only so I could compare it to the right side.

I don't see an improvement
Both sides had scratches from the 150 grit I just used and the toothpaste didn't touch them. I also don't see a difference in shine between the two sides. I'm not giving up this yet and I'll try another brand of toothpaste. I am thinking maybe this sensitive toothpaste doesn't have much abrasive in it. I'll stop a Wally World and get a cleaning, whiting brand. That should have some abrasive in it.

WOW
 I didn't use Bar Keeps first but went right to the Autosol. The shine I got here is 10 times better than what I can get with Bar Keeps. I will try it on the rest of the knob and see how shines that up.

tote scraped and sanded to 120 grit
The tote and knob will hold up getting the 4 1/2 back together. I still have to scrape and sand the knob and spray on a few coats of shellac. I may hold off on the shellac because I bought some Tru-Oil and I should have it by thursday. Steve said that is what he uses on his tote and knobs so I may try it on this plane.

Stopped here because I got an email from my wife telling me that her father is in the ICU. The doctors said he had a stroke and has bleeding on the brain. We won't know anything for few days but it seems things aren't as serious as it seems. My fingers on crossed on this.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that baseball pitching great Sandy Koufax won a college athletic scholarship for basketball?

Repairing the Foot of a Walnut Table

MVFlaim Furnituremaker - Mon, 02/05/2018 - 7:32pm

A few weeks ago, my wife and I, were visiting thrift shops in Cincinnati when we ran across a round walnut table for $20.00 at Goodwill. There was nothing special about it. It had a dull flat finish and was missing the extension wings that go in the middle. It even had two feet that were broken. Anita asked me if I could remake them and I told her I could, so we took it home.

20180121_113259.jpg

In order to fix the feet, I grabbed some scrap walnut and glued pieces to them to re-sculpt the feet.

20180121_133246.jpg

Once the glue dried, I cut the arch of the foot with my band saw, then I sawed off the sides with a hand saw.

IMG_20180127_142412_194.jpgIMG_20180127_142412_192-1.jpg20180127_122245.jpg

Next, I stuck the leg on the lathe and turned the pad of the foot.

IMG_20180127_142412_201.jpg

I then brought the foot over to my workbench and carved the rest of the foot by hand using chisels and rasps.

IMG_20180127_142412_203.jpg

After shaping the foot was complete, I started to sand the leg with 80 grit sand paper working down to 220 grit.

IMG_20180127_142412_206-1.jpg

With the foot finished, I was happy with the way it turned out as it matched the other two. I then repeated the same steps for the other broken foot.

IMG_20180127_142412_208-2.jpg

Noticing the top was solid walnut, I decided to sand off the dull stained finish. You can see how bland the table was when we bought it.

20180128_111309.jpg

A few minutes of sanding, the table was really starting to shine again.

20180128_121515.jpg

After applying three coats of hemp oil, you can see how the table has been brought back to life having much more character between the sap and heart wood of the walnut. Looks much nicer than the boring spray toner stain that was on it before. This piece will be a nice addition in my wife’s booth as a display table.

IMG_20180130_172822_954.jpg

some snapshots of birds

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Mon, 02/05/2018 - 5:39pm

I haven’t been out birding in ages. While I was in Virginia, I took a morning off to go to Jamestown Island for a walk. Good eagle habitat there. I saw about 6 or 8  of them during the few hours I was there. Didn’t get any great shots, but a few photo snippets. Here’s an adult taking off from its perch.

I saw several  different juveniles. One was very distinctive, either molting some wing feathers or otherwise lost some..


At one point there was about 4 juvys and an adult in the air over me at once. here’s one of the other young birds.

Out at the tip of the island, I saw this raccoon digging relentlessly in the flats. Maybe not a good sign seeing him/her out at mid-day in the bright sun. Seemed fine, but made me wonder why it was out at that time of day…

Back down the island I ran into some eastern bluebirds, including this one.

I kept seeing flocks of birds I couldn’t get a bead on, ten or twelve birds scattering around here and there. Then I finally got ’em, yellow-rump warblers.


Back home, there’s a chickadee that’s been around all fall and winter, he’s missing some pigment so he shows a lot of white feathers. Daniel dubbed him “Moby Chic”

a pair of hooded mergansers in the river one day.

I gotta try to get out some soon. So much oak to be worked, I’ve been at my bench every daylight moment…but the oak won’t go bad. So maybe tomorrow…

Abracadabra, Make your own water

Design Matters - Mon, 02/05/2018 - 5:05pm

It’s not quite as magical as making your own water but it’s pretty close. Our latest book “From Truth to Tools” explores how artisan geometry was the flame that ignited the ancient builders imagination. And no less miraculous, gave them the ability to create a tool set out of thin air. That square you have in your tool box may have come from a factory but it really came from simple artisan geometry. Here’s the best part. You can make your own water, I mean tools out of thin air.

Not only will you get a great set of layout tools uniquely suited to woodworking, but also gain a deeper understanding of artisan geometry. Jim Tolpin and I  have been working on a video series  “Building Tools from Truths” to walk you through the build process for making your own tool set. Our first offering covers tools for the layout of straight lines. Here’s a link if you are interested in learning more.

George R. Walker

 

Building Bench #18 – I

The Barn on White Run - Mon, 02/05/2018 - 4:33pm

Once I realized I needed to make another Roubo bench for WW18thC, my sixth or seventh such tool, I began with a selection of SYP 2×12 framing lumber stacked underneath the lathe.  (Calling it my 18th bench includes a small number f no-account benches, for honest-to-goodness furniture making or repairing workbenches the real number is probably 13).   I ripped in half as much material as I needed to make the bench and legs and loaded the ripped lumber into the truck to cart downstairs to the planer.

After running it through the 10″ Ryobi planer to get clean surfaces on both sides (although I will have to set aside some time to address the snipe issue, which seems to be getting worse.  Go figure, I’ve only been using it hard for thirty years. Or, here’s a thought, run some new wiring down to the machine room/foundry so I can hook up my Mini-Max 15″ planer/joiner that has zero snipe) and then carting back up the the main floor I set them out spaced in my barely heated shop for a few days to equilibrate.

After spreading some plastic on the bench I glued up the core laminae using yellow glue to skirt any temperature issues.  Previously with 3-3/4″ stock I assembled the bench tops in two pieces so I could run them through the planer once assembled, but since this was 5-1/2″ stock I was going to have to plane everything entirely by hand.  No, I was not going to be slinging these slabs around to feed them through a planer.

 

I had not yet finished fabricating Roub0’s panel clamps, which could be scaled-up to work perfectly for this process, so I wound up using practically every clamp I had of this size to get things glued.

The next day I came back to glued up the outer laminae with the mortises, using 5″ decking screws as the clamps.  The resulting slab was right at the wight limit I could handle by myself.

Designing with Butts – Rediscover the Architectural Butt Hinge

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 02/05/2018 - 9:52am
butt hinges

The simple butt hinge is ubiquitous. Even if the doors of your kitchen cabinets hang on concealed European hardware and you swear by Brusso knife hinges for every piece of furniture you make, there’s a good chance that the architectural doors throughout your house, as well as most of the buildings you visit each day, are hung on butts. Architectural, or full-size, butt hinges are the beefier counterparts of their […]

The post Designing with Butts – Rediscover the Architectural Butt Hinge appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Lining Up the Holes – Tips from Sticks in the Mud – February 2018 – Tip #2

Highland Woodworking - Mon, 02/05/2018 - 7:00am

No Southern-fried Southern boy wants to be called a Yankee, but we share the characteristics of shrewdness and thrift. Thus, each month we include a money-saving tip. It’s OK if you call me “cheap.

There is one thing contrarian about the Festool RO90: the dust collection holes are not the same size as other Festool sanding disks and pads. I’ve written before about using disposable foam paint pad handles as guides for installing sanding pads.  A 3/8″ dowel works the same. The RO90’s holes are smaller, so I looked for the perfect guide and settled on a good old #2 pencil. Now, you’re probably not lucky enough to have a good old #1 Katz & Besthoff pencil, because K&B Drugstores got bought out in 1997 by RiteAid. But Brenda, seeing the end of the classic purple pencils coming, stocked up.

No, I won’t tell you where her stash is.

A standard pencil allows you to line up the dust collection holes perfectly on your RO90, whether using the round or triangular attachment.

Jim Randolph is a veterinarian in Long Beach, Mississippi. His earlier careers as lawn mower, dairy farmer, automobile mechanic, microwave communications electronics instructor and journeyman carpenter all influence his approach to woodworking. His favorite projects are furniture built for his wife, Brenda, and for their children and grandchildren. His and Brenda’s home, nicknamed Sticks-In-The-Mud, is built on pilings (sticks) near the wetlands (mud) on a bayou off Jourdan River. His shop is in the lower level of their home.Questions and comments on woodworking may be written below in the comments section. Questions about pet care should be directed to his blog on pet care, www.MyPetsDoctor.com. We regret that, because of high volume, not all inquiries can be answered personally.

The post Lining Up the Holes – Tips from Sticks in the Mud – February 2018 – Tip #2 appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Beautiful Cabinet Shop Space Available for Rent in Gowanus The pictures do not do it justice!

Tools For Working Wood - Mon, 02/05/2018 - 4:00am

I have written many times about how some landlords want to change the industrial zoning in Brooklyn to something friendlier to luxury housing.

Not all landlords favor this plan. My own landlord is one of them. He has a deep commitment to maintaining the industrial nature of Gowanus and supports this commitment by being a great landlord to his tenants. So when he mentioned to me that he has some vacant industrial space and asked me if I knew anyone who needed space, I was eager to help if I could. (And no, I don't get a commission or anything.)

Here's the deal:

5000 square foot space with a high ceiling. In addition it already has a built in finished mezzanine that from the pictures looks like great office space. It's on the ground floor, so loading and unloading supplies and goods is easy. It's in great shape and would probably need minimal electrical work. The previous occupant, a restoration shop, was there for 16 years. The location is near the F, G, and R subway lines on a fairly quiet block.

Bonus 1: The previous occupant and a nice spray booth that they want to sell. This is huge if you need to do finishing.

Bonus 2: Long lease. My landlord understands that unless you have a long enough lease you can't afford to invest in your own equipment and other stuff. Let's just say more than five years.

Bonus 3: Affordable. A commitment to manufacturing by a landlord doesn't just mean that he is willing to rent to you if you want to pay office rates. My landlord will offer you an affordable lease, understanding full well that everyone has be be able to make a decent living. You will also discover that he is really easy to work with. The lease is simple and there are no tricks anywhere.

Bonus 4: No brokerage fee for anyone, which saves everyone money.

This is awesome space and a rare commodity. If you are in need of shop space, and you want a place to settle down to for the next decade or so, and you really manufacture stuff, this is by far the best space in Brooklyn. And Gowanus is a great place to work, shop, and live. The shop is walking distance to a lot of great residential areas too.

Don't miss the opportunity! It will go fast. See below for more pictures.

Email me with your contact information and phone number and I will be happy to pass it on.

P.S. I understand that this blog entry might be a little unnecessary for those of you who don't live anywhere near Brooklyn or are not professionals needing space. But the single most popular question that gets asked in all Brooklyn wood shops (after "How's business?") is, "Are you going to be able to stay here?"

P.P.S. I am totally aware that I don't normally have blog entries that are basically advertisements, especially for other people, but this is an exception. My landlord supports me and what I do, so I would like to return the favor and support him and what he does. So I am.



tire saga......

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 02/05/2018 - 12:45am
The start of this blog will be a multiple rant all related to a tire. I'm sure that it will have a lot that appeal to all who read this keyboard diarrhea I output. Last week on wednesday as I was leaving for the day I couldn't because I had a flat tire. A tire that I had just bought and had less then two weeks of ownership on was sitting on the rim. I went today to get it plugged at Firestone because they have sunday hours.

I checked on line and it said they opened at 0800 so I was there waiting at 0755. Did they open at 0800? No they didn't. In fact, the place was empty with no one inside still at 0810. No lights were on but the open sign was well lit. I left at 0815 with no one there yet and went to two other tire stores. Both of them were closed on sunday so I headed back to Firestone.

I get back there at 0840 and the same guy that was there waiting the first time I was there, was still outside waiting. He told that they weren't open until 0900. There were people inside standing around drinking coffee and talking. Here's a customer service tip Firestone. If you change your hours, post them. That means change the hours on the front door. And here is a biggie, change them on the website too. One last tip, shut off the &;#@^()(%@^*#!!)&p;*$ bright red lit OPEN sign when you are closed.

I went home and called another Firestone and they were open so I went there. They told me it would be 3-4 hours before it was done. I said ok and my wife picked me up and we went grocery shopping. While we were shopping Firestone (roughly 20 minutes had passed) called and said the truck would be ready in 30 minutes. They said I needed a new air filter because the one I had was ripped. Here's another thought. I brought my truck in for a tire problem, why is my engine hood open? How did you know I needed an air filter and why did you check my battery too?

The upstroke was that I was told I needed a new tire. They said the one I bought in could be plugged but it may develop a bubble. A new tire from them was $195 plus tax and a tire disposal fee. I didn't get the new tire and it cost me $59 for a new air filter and plugging one tire.

The last part of the rant is this. I asked them to put the tire they swapped on the right front back in the spare holder under the truck. The plugged tire has the sensor that will shut off the idiot light on the dashboard. Where did they put the spare tire? In the bed of the pickup. I'll make an appointment at the shop that did the tires a couple of weeks ago and get a replacement for the 'bubble' tire. At least all four tires will be the same and maybe they will figure out how to get the spare tire back into it's holder. Rant done and I will resume my regularly scheduled blog.

Air Gunnery, model AG-3  brown portable, collapsible spray booth
This is brown wrapping paper from Lee Valley and I use it to contain the over spray. I sprayed the primer on the 4 1/2 saturday night after dinner.

have some scraping to do
I put the screws in the holes and sprayed away. I meant to put some wax on the frog seats first but that didn't happen.

frog looks good
I got a tip on trying toothpaste to remove scratches and shine metal. If I remember I'll give that a try on this tomorrow.

I try to paint within the lines
large spills need a razor blade
For smudges I would just sand them off. I could also do that on these bigger ones but it clogs the sandpaper. I scrape them off first and then sand.

it should sand this without clogging
cleans up easily
This needs one more coat and tomorrow I'll repeat these dance steps and the frog will be done.

oil based Rustoleum black enamel
With all the tools I've done so far, I have only used about a 1/4 of this. A little bit goes a very long way.

small detail brush
If I am careful and take my time, I can paint all around the frog seat areas without getting paint on them. If I'm not, it is easy to scrape off but the key is to do it as soon as possible. The longer you wait and the longer it gets to set up, the harder it is to scrape off.

I can't use this one
I was toying with gluing and screwing this to the end here. I am going to put a big front on this and I need some meat to be able to attach it to.

why I'm saving this
This is perfectly sized for what the drawer front needs to be to fit between the drawer slides.

the drawer and sliding tray front stock
I am going to use this plywood to make the drawer and sliding tray fronts continuous. It is something that I don't think I have ever tried to do.

this is encouraging
It just missing the Lee Valley rabbet plane box. The tray is fully extended and it isn't tipping over. I was a little concerned about having to deal with that in the finished product.

plenty of room for a LV plane box
I will also have to make room for a brace of some king for the tray front. As of now I can only attach it at the bottom and opening and closing it would put a lot of stress on it.

made a change in plans
The blue tape is the height of the boxes plus a few inches. I did this to get an idea of the space available above the sliding tray when it is loaded up.

I have about 10 inches to play with
I decided on two drawers instead of one. I will have extra room in each drawer for future additions. It will also give me a lot more freedom with what goes where and how.

made a Lowes run after the tire rant
I bought a 20" drawer guide and some 1x8 stock for making the two drawers.

1/2" stock
This was my first choice for the drawers but I can't use it. The instructions in the drawer slides state that the sides of the drawer have to be a minimum of 5/8" thick. I'll let the 1x stock sticker for a few days before I do anything with it.

found this cleaning up
The #5 at the back will become my new Jack. The one in the front I'll give to Miles. He has a 5 1/4 right now but he'll be able to grow into this one. I had bought the Jack in the back to be a spare but I like the feel of the tote and knob on it better than the forefront one.

it has a corrugate sole
Not a deal breaker because of the knob and tote.

lots of pitting on this side
This was derusted at some point previous to me getting it. I'm not sure how this will shine up but I'll find out. I know I said that I was taking a break from rehabbing but I feel the tug for getting this done to see what it will look like.

what is the dimple for?
This plane has a drop dead gorgeous front mushroom knob. Was the dimple an errant hang hole drilled in the wrong spot?

the clincher
It has no frog adjust which I think is unnecessary for a plane. And of course, I will be replacing the tote toe screw with a brass one.

awkward
Moving this off and on the sawhorses is not easy to do. The weight of it isn't the problem, it is trying to hold it and moving it. I'll be glad when it's done and under the workbench.

planing the top
I didn't see this yesterday when I planed the bottom proud. The top is proud also but not as much as the bottom was. The jack made short work of getting it flush.

this is how Frank
Frank had asked how the cabinet was sitting on the saw horses. This spacer goes in between the ends to fill in the space. It is normally stowed on the lower rail.

a wee bit over the top of the round
I thought I had more over the top then a wee bit. The idea was to have the spacers above the round so whatever was placed on them wouldn't touch the tops of the rounds and flatten them. I'll have to put this on the shop maintenance list in column K, heading #2, subparagraph 56b, line e-1.3 so I don't forget it.


adding a nailer to the front
This is a 1/2 piece of scrap poplar that I sawed to fit underneath the tray. I had to chisel a few pockets to fit over the screws and tabs.

pocket to fit over the tab
the screwing in trio
I like this ratcheting screwdriver a lot but I'm finding that it has it's limits. It did ok on this but it wasn't a smooth operation. I should have used the bigger craftsman ratcheting driver but I don't have an adapter for it yet.

it's too snug
The poplar fills the spacer in and gives me solid wood to glue and screw into. I planed the poplar down a bit to give it some room to clear.

putting one at the back
I was surprised by how stiff the tray became with just the front filler. I put on at the back and the tray feels even stiffer. This should help with keeping the tray from bowing across it's width. If it does that, it'll be hard to open and close it.

cut and fitted a diagonal brace
went with one brace
I thought of making an x brace but I only had one piece of scrap. I glued and screwed this to the bottom. It is a lot stronger and stiffer now with these 3 additions. It definitely has a more substantial feel to it now over just a plain piece of 1/2 plywood.

my springs came in on saturday
I could have bought a spool of wire (900 feet long and the same diameter as the springs) for about $8 less than what I paid for all of these.  This company has a $25 minimum order so I bought a lot of similar sized but different types of springs. A few of them I'll have to cut to get the length to match the existing springs.

new spring on the bottom - old one on top
they don't compress that much
I tried to get the three jaws to come together but it wasn't happening. All the springs I bought fit in the holes of the chuck pieces but none closed up on them. Even accounting for the springs being over length, it wasn't happening.

DUH
It dawned me after looking at the inside of the chuck that the bottom doesn't close up. It is the top that closes in and comes together. As the chuck is tightened, the jaws move upwards and close around the bit. The bottom of the jaws ride the bottom taper of the inside of the chuck which is wider then the top where the bit is being pinched. The bottom flares outward and the springs keep the jaws from falling apart.

The existing springs have little or no resistance to being compressed so I'll pick the closest spring of the ones I bought. I'll snip it to match the length of the one good existing spring I have and go from there.  I'll be rehabbing this drill later than sooner.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know Coca Cola was originally billed as an "Esteemed Brain Tonic and Intellectual Beverage" in 1886?

Prepping for Williamsburg, a/k/a “Say Hello to Bench #18”

The Barn on White Run - Sun, 02/04/2018 - 4:06pm

Presenting a demonstration takes a lot of time, as much time as actually teaching a hands-on session on the same topic.  When I used to manage educational programs in my previous life I usually budgeted staff time of one full day of preparation for each hour of a new class.  So if a colleague came to me with an idea to develop and teach a week-long class, I knew to budget for them eight weeks of prep time.  Time-compressed demos for a conference like Working Wood in the 18th Century are even more lopsided, as a 90-minute live demo requires roughly the same preps and materiel as a two week workshop.  So, for my two sessions at this year’s conference, Roubo Rediscovered: Merging 1760s Paris with The 21st Century and The Historic Gilder’s and Finisher’s Workshops,  I began preparing aand assembling the supplies in earnest before Thanksgiving.

Things were progressing swimmingly until just before Christmas, when I corresponded with Anthiny Hay Cabinet Shop master Kaare Loftheim about the logistics of moving Colonial Williamsburg’s Roubo bench to the stage of the auditorium.  His reply, which I should have expected, was that they did not possess a Roubo bench.  I smacked my head.  Of course they would not have such a bench since Williamsburg was essentially a 17th century English town!

It was time to rethink my strategy as I would need to arrive with my own Parisian workbench.  I already had three that would serve the purpose nicely but they were so ensconced in their places that it was easier to build a new one for this demonstration.

So I did…

did some woodworking.....

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 02/04/2018 - 2:29am
I sawed up some plywood so that counts as woodworking. It felt good to play with wood and not metal even though it didn't last the whole day long. In the end I went back to rehabbing the 4 1/2 but only because it is a daily user for me. The #3 will have to wait and it will probably get done next month, maybe. I ran into something that gets put at the head of the line over it. I'll get to what that is later on.

10 1/2 is redone
It took a lot of dance steps to get the frog set at the right spot. I didn't have this much trouble the first time but I also didn't take note of where the frog was on the seat. I had it set too far forward initially and I had to keep tapping it backwards. I didn't want the mouth to be tight so I did it in small increments and that is why it took so long.

I got the left, middle, right shavings set and the last step was to shoot a rabbet. This plane could also be a smoother but I use it just for rabbeting.

port side
aft, starboard quarter
This is ready to go back to the herd.

marking the proud
Working on the roll around tool cabinet. I had purposely left this proud so I could plane it after the glue set to whatever way the box ended up. I marked both sides and used a ruler to connect them.

no wonder I needed a break
There are 14 tools here and there are more but I couldn't fit them all in one pic. With the exception of 3 hand planes, all of these were done within the last 4-5 months with the bulk in last 2.

2 #4 Stanleys
Why didn't I pick up on this and do the lever caps back then? Even though the shine on them doesn't wow me, what shine there is looks better than the previous one. At least I am improving on what I am doing. And no, I'm not a patina fan.

10 1/2 on the left and #3 on the right
These two are about the same size but the 10 1/2 looks better. I did a good job on rehabbing the #3 but the new extra steps I added to my plane rehabbing shows. Rather then do the #3 under the workbench I'll be doing these first.

Two #6s
The left #6 is mine and the right one is Miles's. Re-doing the rehab on his will be quick and relatively painless. All I have to do is the lever cap to bring it up to level of mine.

the last 3
These bring the tool total up to 17. The 4 1/2 I'm doing now will make 18. I'll redo the ones from Miles's toolbox but I won't count them again. The router plane, Record 044 plow, and the Stanley 78 rabbet plane, are the only tools that I made boxes to keep them in.

I forgot about a #3 I rehabbed around christmas. Ken Hatch sent me a #3 for Miles's toolbox but I already had #3 for Miles. So with Ken's blessing, I rehabbed it and sent it across the big pond to someone else. The revised total is 19.

no room to hang it from here, my first choice
The #6 plane gets stowed here and the tote would be in the way.

hanging spot #2
This would have worked here. It's below the ledge for the tool trays and it fits. However, I had to rearrange how the planes were stowed and this free space went away. A #4 plane now lays up against this end taking away the hanging space.

back to planing to the knife line
had a hump on the first check

I'm still square at the front and back
a frog hair off on the side to side
It is ever so slightly tighter at the front then the back. It is maybe the thickness of a piece of paper.

the same here too
Drawers slides need to be 0 to + 1/32" off front to back on parallel. Before I sawed out the plywood tray I wanted to see what I was up against. I'm good and within specs.

3rd time was the charm
I started with the plywood tray being a strong 16th over in the width. It was too tight and the slides wouldn't operate. The 2nd trim helped some but it was too stiff going in/out for my liking. On the third shave I got the fit just right. It slides in/out smoothly with no binding or hold ups along the length of travel.

why did we stop using this?
I like the positive control I have with this. I have found it (so far) to be impossible to over drive a screw. That is very easy to do with a hand drill (battery type).

still working nicely
I have the tray screwed to the drawer slide and it still works in/out smoothly. I don't have a lot of experience with installing these and I tend to be over cautious and double triple check myself throughout the installation.

I have in past installs got the tray screwed on and that made it tight. It is usually because a screw(s) is throwing the slides out of parallel. Now that the tray is ok I will screw the slides to sides of the cabinet. I only put in two screws, one at the front and one at the rear, and check the operation.

still working smoothly with two screws
still working - drawer front or a door?
I got full extension slides and with it fully extended, the cabinet is still laying on the saw horses. I don't know how it will be once I have the tool boxes loaded in here.

I need to push the slides back
allowance for adjustment
I put the screws in the elongated slots first for this purpose. It is a simple matter of loosening the screws and pushing the slide back. If I didn't have enough backwards movement, I would put the screw in the next elongated slot and start over.

loaded
I have the tray extended a little past 1/2 way and it isn't causing the cabinet to trip forward. Maybe I will be able to fully extend it when the cabinet is done. I haven't forgotten that I need to make a new box for the LV rabbet plane.

time to use your imagination
The area to the left within the blue tape is the interior of the top drawer. I thought of making two drawers but I think I'll go with one. I don't have that many chisels that I need two drawers for them. I'm using this to figure out the layout for chisels going in the drawer.

a lot of chisels to be stowed
I have 6 sets of chisels spread out around the shop. This is the main purpose of the tool cabinet - to give all my chisels one place to call home.

I have an idea - I know this because I have a headache
One big deep drawer. Chisels that I use most of the time on top and the infrequent use ones in the bottom. Now I have flesh that out and see if it is feasible.

first bottom layout
top layout
I was thinking of reusing the box for the AI chisels and the board for the LN chisels. In order to get access to the bottom stuff I will have to lift either one of these out first. That would be a bit of a PITA to do. I think a better choice is two sliding tills that I can move R/L to get access to what is underneath.

I wanted to use these because I wouldn't have to make anything. I might be able to use the AI box and make something similar for the LN chisels. Either way, just the AI and LN chisels will be topside.

it will slide
I will put dividers on the bottom to not only separate the chisels but also to give the topside tills something to slide on.

possible storage for the big AI chisels
layout #2
The AI and Buck paring chisels are dictating how and what goes where.

proposed dividers
I am now thinking of putting all the chisels in place with dividers. No other holding gadgets for  any of the chisels, even the big AI ones.

I may keep the angled thing for AI chisels
I don't want the bottom drawer dividers to be higher than 2". That is the width of the largest AI chisel and with a holder the OAH (over all height) will exceed that. Something to sleep on as nothing is carved in stone yet.

back to the 4 1/2 to finish the shop day
I want to get this stripped, cleaned, and the primer sprayed on. I also wanted to paint the yoke and the frog.

sawdust
I don't have any shavings to clean up the stripper so I used the sawdust generated by the tablesaw.

stripper box
The sawdust worked a lot better than the shavings. I did it in this box so it wouldn't get all over the workbench and the shop. The sawdust acted like a sponge soaking up water. It got almost all of the stripper and clumped up like kitty litter. The shavings are history and the lead off batter from now on will be sawdust.

almost ready for primer
Almost every bit of the japanning came off with the first application of the stripper. After the sawdust soaked up the stripper, I washed and rinsed the plane and blew it dry. I sanded the heel with 100 grit sandpaper and this is what I ended up with. I did the rest of the plane and cleaned it with acetone.  After dinner I came back to the shop, cleaned it again with acetone and sprayed the primer on.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know on the Professional Golf Association tour that a player is only allotted 45 seconds for each shot?

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