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General Woodworking

started the till.......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 09/14/2017 - 1:18am
My till is going to be a lift out one. It will be one large and it will have one or maybe two sliding tills in it. I'm not crazy about sliding tills back and forth to get access what is underneath them. I don't have a lot of experience with them in toolboxes but I do use them in drawers. I like putting stuff I use most of the time in the sliding till and stuff I seldom use in the bottom of the drawer. That seems to work for me and I'm going to try it on the toolbox.

the till stock
This has been stickered for a day and it is still straight. The far right one has a teeny bit of cup but it shouldn't interfere with the dovetailing to come.

Stanley 71 box done
I've already snapped the outside glamour shot. Tonight is the inside of the box glamour shot. I've picked the box up several different ways and there is definitely a weight tilt on the far side. When I picked it up I adjusted for the weight bias without any problems. The box having no handles and being too big to pick up with one hand helps too. This box has to be picked up with two hands.

it fits beneath the bearer for the till.
I'm rethinking stowing the 71 box in the toolbox. It's contents are protected and don't need to be further protected in the toolbox. It also eats up a lot of real estate which I hadn't thought of before making it. I want to get Miles a plow plane too and that will need a box. Another box will lead to a loss of more toolbox real estate. These might get stowed on top of the toolbox once it has it's full compliment of tools.

squared one end of the till pieces
Once I squared one end I set one long side and short in the box and knifed the length.

squared the other end
 I wish that I could do the width of multiple pieces the same as easily as I can to length. Practice, practice, practice, is the only thing that is going to do it for me there.

almost done
I got the tails done and I marked out the pins. I had expected to get this done tonight but there isn't any rush on it. Tomorrow I'll saw and chop the pins and maybe get it glued up.

And that is the way it was, Wednesday, September 13, 2017.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
45 rpm vinyl records when first made in 1949 and came in various colors. What did the color green mean?
answer - that it was a country record - Eddie Arnold had the first song on the first 45 made by RCA

Shooting Summer In The Foot

Inside the Oldwolf Workshop - Wed, 09/13/2017 - 7:20pm
I'm going to spend the next few posts updating on cool thing that have been accomplished and do a little weather vane pointing into the future.

I have finally had time to sit down and reflect back on the past two plus months. They have been busy and productive and exhausting but they have not produced much I feel needs to take up space on this blog or in your reader feed. There has been sawdust, a lot of sawdust, but there has been no furniture nor techniques in the realm of "fine" woodworking,

It started early July with a project that was supposed to eat up maybe two weeks. We have a gazebo structure in our backyard and the previous owner build boardwalks between it and the back door, however the steps out of the back door were narrow, lacking a handrail, and it was torturous watching my Mother-in-Law step out and try and close the door behind herself. We decided building a small deck would be a safer platform for everybody and at the same time I'd complete the fencing around the yard which was 80% done. 

I interrupted my work to help my own parents expand their deck enclosure/dog run and to build a large chicken coop for my sisters new home. She was moving and needed a new place for the birds. The best part of these interruptions is that I got to spend some time working with my dad. 

Of course there are the standard interruptions and hitches that happen with any home improvement project. From removing substandard outdoor wiring to having to replace the entire boardwalk, to having to figure out how to run a 12' stretch of fence, with a gate, across a cement covered area. 

The projects are done now and I can start doing something in the shop again . . . but wait, the shop is trashed, absolutely trashed. When I'm working in my shop I am meticulous, I clean up and put things away in between stages and I keep myself well organized. Apparently that doesn't happen when I'm juggling my own outdoor project and dragging a truck full of tools off to build things elsewhere. Every workbench surface is covered with tools and toolboxes, empty Menards bags and scraps of pressure treated wood, boxes of decking screws and oh I can't go on. It's going to take me two solid days to get the shop workable again.

Along the way I have to find space to keep a few new friends. I purchased a cheap no-name chopsaw to help with all the deck cutting. I gave my old one away years ago and hadn't missed it until I dived unto the construction project world again. There's not a lot of call for it in my furniture work, the cheap ones aren't accurate enough, but I still have to find a place to store it. I've also added a Grizzly 22" scroll saw, to up my marquetry game, I found it for sale used for a very good price but I haven't had time to do more than clean it up and make sure it goes. Changing blades is a trick but with some practice I'll get the hang of it. Still I have to figure out a station or a way/place to store it. 

Still all good problems to have. 

Ratione et Passionis
Categories: General Woodworking

Tricks of the Trade: Dust Collection for Ports of All Sizes

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 09/13/2017 - 10:23am

I made this adapter to hook up dust collection to the odd-size fitting (2″) on my oscillating sander. Start with a hardwood block that is (in my case) is 3″ x 4″ x 11⁄4” thick. I required a 2″ hole, so I used a 2″ hole saw to drill in the middle of the block. The next thing is to drill the holes for the split-block-clamping and block-attachment holes. I drilled […]

The post Tricks of the Trade: Dust Collection for Ports of All Sizes appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Saw Sharpening Demo at SAPFM-Blue Ridge

The Barn on White Run - Wed, 09/13/2017 - 7:39am

Recently I was a presenter at the SAPFM Blue Ridge Chapter on the topic of saw sharpening.  I would not call myself an accomplished saw sharpener mostly because my results are inconsistent, generally due to the lack of hours at the task.  But there are times when the result is excellent, for example my favorite old back saw that I last sharpened sometime in the 1980s and has cut hundreds of joints since, and remains sharp and the cuts crisp and clean.

Using some oversized props I reviewed the notions of tooth spacing and shape (rake, and fleam), and how these come into play for crosscutting and ripping at varying degrees of scale, precision and effectiveness.

I the moved through the nearly unlimited options for holding the saw during sharpening, and finally set up to actually doing some sharpening under less-than-ideal conditions of a large lumber warehouse with diffuse illumination.  I find that getting the lighting correct is perhaps the most important thing when sharpening a saw, and this setting wasn’t it.

My explanation of the process was certainly better than the actual sharpening during the demo, but I think the attendees got the idea.

As an aside, I was delighted I had my petite Roubo bench with me and realize that it has become a treasured part of my traveling side-show kit, as it fits neatly into the back of my S-10, is moved easily with a hand truck, and performs most excellently.

Ten Ways I am Doing Things Differently - Part 1

Tools For Working Wood - Wed, 09/13/2017 - 4:00am

I've been working with wood since I was a kid. I took my first woodworking class at the 92nd Street Y when I was 6 years old. I've been taking classes and building stuff for over 35 years. For the last 17 I have been working at Tools for Working Wood. In that time, new tools and new techniques have come on the market. By and large I have ignored them in my personal work. However, I haven't ignored everything, and my methods of work have in certain areas changed dramatically for the better. I'll break up my list of ten things into three posts so I don't drone on and on here.

Diamond Stones

I learned on Arkansas stones and I still use them for sharpening carving tools. I really love the feel of the stones. But during the 1990 - 2010 era, I mostly used water stones. Over the years I used many different brands, but nonetheless all water stones. I still use water stones in the kitchen for sharpening knives, but for woodworking tools and when I teach sharpening I use diamond stones do all the rough work. I use an 8000 grit finishing stone at the end because I don't think the 8000 grit diamond stones are nearly as fine, but diamonds do everything else. You can read about my experiments here.

Diamond paste works well but it's too messy for me, and I worry about getting it into my eye. I don't use lapping film, although it's great and popular. For the amount of sharpening I do, it's not practical: I would just blow through too much film. I think lapping film is best for low cost-of-entry on a professional system and for traveling. Some people love lapping film because it's largely maintenance free. It also works well for odd profiles, but it's not for me. The major problem I used to have with diamond stones is that they would wear out quickly and weren't flat. The DMT Dia-Sharp stones solve the latter problem, and by not using them to flatten water stones I solve the former problem. DMT makes lapping plates for flattening water stones, but currently I don't have one (I should but I don't).

The main reason for the switch to diamonds is that I am a lazy sod who is always in a rush. My water stones got out of flat. Water was sloshing everywhere - I didn't do the needed regular flattening and I didn't have a good place for a bucket of water stones. I love Arkansas stones a lot, but for regular chisels and plane blades, I find them slow. For carving tools, diamonds can replace a medium India stone, but diamonds, while cutting fast, leave scratches which would add in a step or two.

Hide Glue
I grew up on Titebond. Back in the 1980's we all felt so superior to those DIYers who still used - horrors! - Elmer's glue, while, we used real wood glue for gluing up our projects. And it was yellow too! What I hated then, and now, about Titebond is that if you ever got it on the wrong spot, you'd have the big hassle of cleaning the wood so that it could take finish. I still use Titebond for gluing Dominos and some other general tasks. But if there is any risk of surface contamination, I much prefer hide glue. Being mostly transparent to finishes = a massive time-saver for me. I don't use hot glue. I suppose I should, but I don't have a place to put the glue pot. I do most of my woodworking snatching odd moments and I just can't think ahead to soak glue pellets. (Why is it that every time I think of the word "pellets," I think of hamsters?) But Old Brown Glue is great stuff, is real hide glue, and put putting it out in the sun or on a radiator for a minute makes it perfect to use. So that's what I do.

Hand Sawing

When I first studied woodworking, it was generally accepted that sawing dovetails by hand was perfectly acceptable, but milling timber and cutting it by hand was a waste of time -- and really impossible to do well. However, in the early days of TFWW, I needed to build a couple of projects and for the first time I didn't have access to a table saw. At the same time, there was a major revival in backsaw manufacture, and a real re-evaluation of handsaws in general. On those early projects I ended up sawing lots and lots of maple by hand, and by the end of the project I was reasonably good at it. These days, I am much more likely to grab a handsaw than to wander back to see if the bandsaw is free. For plywood, I use a Festool plunge saw, but for everything else, I pretty much use our Hardware Store Saw. (I have wonderful Disston saws in my toolbox, but the display Hardware Store saw is physically closer and cuts faster). These days I expect myself to cut square by eye. Then normal procedure is to use a shooting board to complete the job (if real accuracy is needed).

I'll continue my list next time. What's on your list? I love traditional methods for doing stuff. I love history and the feeling that I am walking in the footsteps of those who went before us. On the other hand, I have limited time do build anything. and I value efficiency. I personally like developing hand skills rather than getting single purpose tools, and I am continually learning. So that's why I've change the way I work, and I will continue to change (I hope).

done tomorrow......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 09/13/2017 - 1:11am
I had a senior moment tonight that I corrected. Having that episode (again) gave me tonight's blog title. The 71 box will done tomorrow . Fini, complete, over, 100% done, nothing more to do, time to let the oohs and aahs commence. My final glamour shot tomorrow will be anticlimactic because I already posted one.

not the title senior moment
I almost made another set of these for nothing. After I took some medicine that corrected my anal ocular inversion, I saw that I could just turn it.  The one I have in my hand is the original way I was putting them in. Turning them gives me a much wider bearing surface for the till bottom to seat on.

it's a snug fit side to side
top of the scrap is the bottom of the bearer
I set the bearer on top of this and screwed them into the sides. This ensures both bearers are at the same height.

getting the length of till
I made the mark across both sticks at the front and I'm checking it at the back to see if it there is any difference. The mark lined up exactly which means my toolbox sides are the same length.

sawing the till parts to rough length
long side is about 3/16 too long
the same with the ends
I had bought 6 boards and I picked the 3 straightest ones I for this till. I am going to sticker these until tomorrow and I'll start the dovetailing it then.

choices for the bottom
I can use 1/4" birch or 1/8" plywood. My preference is to use 1/8" over the 1/4". But the 1/8" will be the wanna be and 1/4" will be used. I don't think the 1/8" would be strong enough. It's too big of a bottom span for it.

first handle idea
As I was looking at this pic I thought of something else. I made the space for the chain to fall in but maybe I can put this on the other side and thread a rope handle through it?

the blog title senior moment
I was fixated on getting my hardware for this and spaced out that I have 80 or more of these. I could have been done with this yesterday.

almost bottomed out
I drilled a hole and threaded it with my homemade tap. With the fence, washer, and the holder thickness, the screw won't bottom out.

cutting it down
I don't need to spend ten minutes screwing this all the way in or out.  I cut it to a 1/2" long under the head.
enough room to screw this in/out with my ham hock fingers
I would need a stubby
If I had used one of the screws coming from McMaster-Carr I would have had to use a screwdriver. I don't have the strength in my fingers to grasp the head of the screw and take it out or in. Not to mention that I would have to search for a stubby screwdriver that I know I don't have.

glued with hide glue - this will be done tomorrow
the man in brown came
As I was writing this blog he came and dropped off my goodies from McMaster. Two 10-24 screws from Lowes, with tax are over $2. For $5 and change I got a hundred and I probably have a lifetime supply of them. Miles too most likely.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the birthday flower for November?
answer - chrysanthemum

How to Prepare Construction Lumber for Furniture

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 09/12/2017 - 11:51am

Construction pine, the stuff you get at the big box stores, has a bad rap with woodworkers. It’s poorly dried, hard to work and moves way too much. It grows too fast so the grain is too wide and varied. It’s for carpentry projects… I also know this. It’s cheap, requires good tool techniques, needs proper design consideration and demands sharp edges. Which makes it perfect for new woodworkers, experiments […]

The post How to Prepare Construction Lumber for Furniture appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Product Video: Rikon 8 inch Professional Low Speed Bench Grinder

Highland Woodworking - Tue, 09/12/2017 - 8:03am


Finally, an exceptional grinder at a reasonable price!

Take a look at the Rikon 8 Inch Professional Low Speed Bench Grinder in this short video tour with Justin Moon. Justin shows how the Rikon grinder runs quietly and smoothly and details how it could be the perfect sharpening addition for your shop.

The post Product Video: Rikon 8 inch Professional Low Speed Bench Grinder appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

it's a type 10 to 11......

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 09/12/2017 - 1:14am
Thanx to Bob D I was able to type my 71. And just like trying to type a bench plane, there is a bit slop with typing the 71.  It could be the type where a certain feature first showed up but it also has some of the later ones. I've found that the best I can do is to narrow it down to two or maybe three types. The 71 is that way. It has one feature that first appeared with the type 10 and it matches up too with the type 11.

I like typing a Stanley tool. It's cool to see how it progressed from initial production to what you are holding in your hands now. The progression of the 71 was interesting. The special attachment didn't show up for over 10 years.

been a day it should have set up
won't fit where I want it
This is one downside to making a small tight box. I could notch out for the thumb screw but I don't want to do that. That would make it even tighter getting the 71 out and putting it back.  Another option would be to the iron in the bullnose position. That would reverse the collar and thumbscrew 180°. That would also make it a PITA to use when I have to switch it before I can make shavings.

it barely fits here
The open throat front edge is separated from the holder by two atoms. It's a tight fit. I can take the router out but it's a bit dicey getting it back in. It is easier to slightly tilt it to drop it in but with the holders there, I can't do that. I have put up against the holder and drop it straight down. Not that convenient and awkward.

Another problem is the weight is now all concentrated on this side of the box. Not a deal killer but there isn't much I can do about it.

the lid clears the irons
still no screws for the fence
I could put the fence storage on the other side but I don't think it will do much to counter balance the other side. Since I don't have the screws this isn't set in concrete yet.

got a 16th now
I planed a little off of each side of the holder. There is enough room to put the router back in by tilting it.

the till
The #6 is the tallest tool I can think of that will be in the bottom of the toolbox. This one big till will get two more sliding tills that will fit inside of it. That will all come later.

bearer on the chain side
I saw a toolbox build that dealt with this chain in what I thought was a clever way. I don't like having the chain fall into the till and his solution fixes that. I don't remember who did this but if I do I'll give him credit and post the link.

the till side
If the till side has a space between it and the chain, the chain will naturally fall into it and not the till.

this looks to be enough room
The chain fell straight down into the space. Now I just have to figure out how to make the space.

grecian ovolo on the bottom, the top one I don't the name of it
I think using these on the interior would be lost not to mention not being readily visible.

better choice for the bearer
As of now I'm thinking of only putting bearers on the two short sides to hold the till.  I want to avoid having them as a catch point on the long sides. If I see the till sagging I can revisit this and put a short bearer in the middle on both long sides.

side bearers
The one with the rabbet will go against the side with the chain and give me the space for it.

this should work
The size of the rabbet seems adequate - it's 3/8" square with a 3/8" space on the top.

change one
Decided to use a rabbeted bearer on both sides. There isn't enough space to get my fingers between the till ends and the sides but it'll help some if I put handles on the inside of the till.  The what and how of the handles will take some time to generate a few ideas on. I am going to do change two on the bearers also.  I will make the rabbet bottom 3/4" inch with a 3/8" space for the chain. I don't like the look of the 3/8" square rabbet as it looks to be too small for the till to rest on. I'll make the new bearers tomorrow and start on the till.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
On the Universal Product Code (bar code), what is signified by the digits 2 to 6?
answer -  the Product's manufacturer as assigned by the Uniform Code Council

How to Make Vintage Linoleum Countertops – Part 1

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 09/11/2017 - 8:14am

This is the first post in a series. Today we’ll have an introduction and list of the basic tools and materials you’ll need to complete a typical linoleum countertop project. Next week we’ll cover the process of prepping, adhering, trimming, and edging. Do you need a counter solution that’s durable, handsome and affordable – one you can make yourself? Consider linoleum. I moved into my home when it was a […]

The post How to Make Vintage Linoleum Countertops – Part 1 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

On Our Return From the Wild Kingdom, We Continue Milking the Auction.

The Furniture Record - Mon, 09/11/2017 - 8:11am

Back to the auction gallery.

There were a few other auction items worthy of attention. First is this:

American Chippendale Blanket Chest.

Description: Late 18th century, white pine dove tailed case, lid with fishtail hinges and applied molded edge, interior with till to left side (lacking lid), base with two side by side lipped drawers, raised on ogee bracket feet with spurs.

Size: 29.5 x 48.5 x 23 in.

Condition: Wear and marring to top; missing lock; later pulls; feet have lost some height.


This lot has sold for $310.

They called it a blanket chest while others might consider it a mule chest. The argument is that the drawers make it a mule chest but others say mule chests must be taller. Who knows?

Some interesting details:


Dovetailed case.


Dovetailed drawers.


Drawer bottoms chamfered and pinned.


Convex bracket feet.

Till lid is missing. Saw cuts were used to make the dados for the till and mortises for the hinges:


Note the saw cuts by the hinges and till. They were not afraid of over cutting.

The breadboards on the lid are very narrow and really seem to be wide moldings more than ends designed to keep the lid flat.


Are the breadboard ends wide enough to keep the lid in one plane?

Interestingly, they are attached with through tenons:


Through tenons to attach the ends.

For a minute I thought the tenons were wedged but a closer look showed me that it wasn’t a wedge but a pinned tenon that suffered a break in the end grain where the pin came too close to the end of the tenon:


The tenon failed where pinned.

I like the pulls…


Even if they are replacements.

Next up is this:

Cherry Dovetailed Blanket Chest

Description: 19th century, hinged top with applied rounded edge, interior with till, applied molded base with turned peg feet.

Size: 23 x 38 x 18.5 in.

Condition: Later hinges with break outs and repairs; moth ball smell to interior; surface scratches.


This lot has sold for $90.

There carcass is dovetailed. Really. Email me if you need to see the pictures.

I haven’t shown any secret compartments for a while so I owe you this.

There is a till on the left. Thetill appears shallower than the till front board would lead you to believe:


The till seems like it should be deeper. Ignore the scuff marks above till’s front board.

Not all that much or a secret really.


The front board is captive but slides up a bit to reveal a shallow secret compartment.

Note the arc of a groove on the chest’s lid caused by using the till lid as a stop.

Odd to find a boarded chest at a “better” auction but, here it is:

American Grain Bin

Description: 19th century, white pine, hinged lid, divided interior with two compartments, straight legs from the solid with half-moon cut.

Size:  26.5 x 30 x 16.5 in.

Condition: Rat chew to lid and front boards; tin patch to left side.


This lot has sold for $160.

This piece had some remodeling done:

George III Chest of Drawers

Description: Early 19th century, mahogany, pine secondary, converted originally from a commode / wash stand, now with four graduated drawers, with a bracket foot base.

Size: 30 x 26 x 20 in.

Condition: Converted from wash stand to chest of drawers; later pulls; wear and chipping.


This lot has sold for $700.

You see, in this chest, the two doors were rebuilt into two drawers. Original lower drawers are dovetailed:


Original lower drawers are dovetailed.

Improvised upper drawers are dovetail-free:


No dovetails on the new(ish) drawers.

Looking at the upper drawer fronts tells the story of its origin:


This is not traditionally how you build drawer fronts but it is how you build doors.

In review, this chest was initially built with two drawers below with two doors on top. The doors were cut up and converted into two drawer front giving the chest four drawers.

I like this sring pull, too.


Might not be original but it works.

Finally, apparently no recent blog of mine is complete without a Hitchcock chair. This blog is no exception:

James L. Ferguson’s Hamilton College Hitchcock Chair

Description: Late 20th century, black lacquered wood with gilt and painted decoration, back support with early scene of Hamilton College and signed S. Marshall, stenciled on seat rail “L. Hitchcock, Hitchcocks-ville Conn., Warranted” and gilt signed “James L. Ferguson ’49, Charter Trustee 1973-1988.”

Size: 31 x 24 x 16 in.

Condition: Some scuffs and light wear; overall good estate condition.


This lot has sold for $140.

And here is the obligatory picture of the genuine stenciled logo:


Stencil variation circa 1988.


This is what makes it a presentation chair.





took it easy.....

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 09/11/2017 - 4:16am
The gash I gave myself yesterday is healing ok. The steri-strips kept the wound closed while I slept and when I awoke this morning there were only two small spots of blood on the bandage. I'll change them after I shower tonight because I doubt steri-strips can survive a shower.

I didn't get much done in the shop today but I did have a late day burst working on the 71 box. I figured out how to stow the three irons. I am still waiting on the screws to come in for the fence so that will hold up being 100% done with the box. Maybe I'll get them tomorrow.

made a change with the banding
This plain square bottom banding is history.

this will replace it
I have enough stock left over to make another set to wrap the box.

checking the two pieces
The stock I had wasn't long enough to make all 3 pieces of the banding needed. I had to make it in two and I'm planing the second one until it feels the same as the other one.

4 1/2 feet of molding shavings
yikes! the left hand molding came out like crap
right end molding (bottom) came out ok
4 1/2 isn't wide enough to use on the jig going R or L
#8 fits
This did work but the left of the jig was a bit high the plane iron was stopping on it. I didn't want to try to fix that now and set it aside.

surprisingly, this worked very well
I had to take one more trimming run
I should have left myself a bit more wiggle room on this. I barely sawed this to rough  length long enough. Trimming the fuzz from the saw cut ate up past my wiggle room.

this should be more than enough wiggle room
I ripped out another piece and molded the edge again.

right corner dialed in to set the short side
I usually do my molding starting with a short side and working around till I come back to it. This time I set the two short ones and I'll trim and fit the long one to fit inbetween them.

first rough cut and check
sneaking up on the fit
an hour later
I am still a wee bit long and some of it I can adjust with the side one.

I'm happy with this fit
It is not perfect but close enough. I'll be painting this and sandpaper, putty, and a dark color will hide a lot of sins.

off the saw
Initially I was a bit off at the heel but towards the end I was dead nuts according to Mr Starrett.

how I snuck up on the fit
From the first rough cut on the left to the last one on the right. I erred very cautiously on the waste side. I didn't have any more stock to make another molding so did the fitting in turtle mode.

how I kept my placement of the molding
It started with putting 3 nails in the back of the molding.

clipped them off close
box lid lightly clapped shut
I put the spacer on the top, aligned it left and right, and pressed into the box.

two sides done
I screwed the molding to the box from the inside, no glue.

one more piece and this will be done
This molding looks a 100% better than the plain square molding there.

the 71 box
This is where the burst came in. It took me all morning and a couple of hours into the afternoon just to do the banding. I watched a few You Tube videos on the JFK assassination and over 50 years later the controversy surrounding his death still won't die. I don't believe Oswald did it and the researchers are finding more and more anomalies and holes with the Warren Commission report every time new documents are freed up  I was in the 6th grade just getting ready to go home when the news about his death was announced on the PA system.

got an idea for stowing the irons
nailed the miters
I glued the miters and further help keep them together, I nailed them too. Tomorrow I'll plane the corners flush and sand the beads. I'll putty the holes when I paint the box.

I screwed this down rather then glue it
two of the screws broke off
I can hide these two
These are the two holes with the broken screws and I can hide the both of them with storage doo-dads. I tried to get them out but both of them broke off below the surface of the bottom plywood.

first screw hole hidden

using hide glue for this in case I need to reverse or repair it
my iron storage idea
I had wanted to stow the irons this way since the beginning but I couldn't figure out how. The shafts on the irons are 3/8" square with the irons angled kitty corner rather then being 90° on a flat face. The diagonal facing iron was depriving my only two brain cells of oxygen and I was at a lost for a solution. I was stuck on working around the diagonal and I didn't need to be. I needed a square 3/8" hole and nothing more than that.

almost done
This worked good for me. The irons pivot out at an angle rather then being flat up against the wall of the box. This will allow me to grab an iron and take it out easily. I made the grooves a few frog hairs wider than 3/8".

Tomorrow I will plane and clean this up. I think I might have enough room on the right to put the fence there. If I don't I will make something else to hold the fence. I glued this and set aside to set up.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
The US $500 bill was discontinued in 1969 but they are still legal tender. Whose picture was on it?
answer - President William McKinley

walnut joined stool assembled

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Sun, 09/10/2017 - 6:15pm

It’s been ages and ages since I did any turning on a regular basis. I have a lot of it coming up this fall and winter, and in preparation for that work, I decided to start with some joined stools. The first one is in walnut instead of oak.

My lathe is the last piece in the workshop puzzle; as it is now, it’s been buried under/behind 2 chests, and all sorts of wood, projects, etc. So I shoved all that aside and turned these stiles recently. I started the first session with sharpening the gouges and skews, and turned one stile. So the next morning I did the other three. I’ve covered this stuff in the joined stool book and the wainscot chair video with Lie-Nielsen – but here’s some of it. First off, mark the centers on each end. I scribed the diagonal lines, then set a compass to see what size circle, and how centered it was (or wasn’t). I decided it needed a nudge a bit this way & that – so when I punched the center, I moved a little bit over.

Then rough out the cylindrical bits –

Then I use a story-stick to mark where to cut the various elements of the turnings, here one cove is cut and I’m lining up the stick to locate the other details.


I alternate between a skew chisel and narrow gouges to form the shapes.


Once I was finished with the turnings, time to bore the tenons for the pins, and assemble. Here, roman numerals ID the stretcher-to-stile.


Mark the joint, and bore the peg hole in the tenon.


No one, NO ONE, likes the way I shave pegs. I’ve done thousands this way, and it seems to work for me.


The peg-splitting & shaving tools; cleaver (riving knife) by Peter Ross; tapered reamer by Mark Atchison (for opening holes when the offset for drawboring is too severe), 2″ framing chisel.

Make a bunch of tapered pins and hammer them in one-by-one. I line it up over a hole in the bench so the pin can exit.

After assembling two sections, then knock in the angled side rails, and pin the whole thing.


Frame assembled, wants some walnut for the seat board. I have a wood-shopping trip coming up…I don’t have 11″ wide walnut around.

All the joined stool work is covered in detail in the book I did with Jennie Alexander – I have a few copies left for sale, (leave me a comment if you’d like to order one, $43 shipped in US) or get it from Lost Art Press – https://lostartpress.com/products/make-a-joint-stool-from-a-tree 

Another Hot-Sand Inlay

360 WoodWorking - Sun, 09/10/2017 - 6:07am
Another Hot-Sand Inlay

In the last online course released from 360 Woodworking (Inlaid Tea Caddy), hot sand was used to shade pieces of veneer to make rays for quarter, round and oval fans. This past week I was back at it to make a different hot-sand inlay for an upcoming project, a Pembroke Table. The legs of the table are strung, have a small inlaid circle to cover a pivot point for the stringing and have a cuff band, in addition to the sand-shaded inlay.

Continue reading Another Hot-Sand Inlay at 360 WoodWorking.

Week in Review – Sept 3-10

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sun, 09/10/2017 - 2:54am

This week we recieved a lot of great feedback from the propane forge video that we posted to facebook. It’s a simple project to get you started forging for under $100. If you enjoy that clip, you must check out the rest of the video, Build a Viking Tool Chest. We also announced the winner of the Popular Woodworking Magazine Excellence awards. The Editor’s Choice went to Al Spicer for […]

The post Week in Review – Sept 3-10 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

a bloody saturday.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 09/10/2017 - 2:49am
I'm not talking british bloody here but the actual red liquid stuff that is supposed to stay inside the body. I put a boo-boo on both forearms today. One is a minor scratch and the other was deep gash and wouldn't stop bleeding. Every time I got it stopped and I starting working again, it would start flowing. Very annoying but after a couple of hours I finally got it stopped for good. Dealing with this put a dent in my shop time but at least I didn't have to make an ER run. Going to the emergency room would have curtailed working for most of the day.

Ohio tool catalog
The molding plane iron that I am sharpening now is for a #64 Ohio tool molding plane. According to the catalog it is a grecian ovolo with a fillet. (The top profile on the right)  I've been looking for an Ohio Tool catalog for a while with no luck. Josh at Hyperkitten usually has a selection of catalogs for sale but so far nothing from Ohio Tool.

stock to complete the dust seal
When I looked at Paul Sellers's video on the tool box build he had another piece of stock under the lid. He said it strengthened the box and made a dust seal. I can see the strengthen part but not the latter. The lid drops down over the box on 3 sides so that is a dust seal too.

I chamfered the overhang
leaves a gap I don't like
The chamfer isn't that large and I have two choices with making it go away. One is to saw off the side and the front pieces and make a new one. Two, plane the chamfer off.

the first cut on my left forearm
This isn't more than a scratch and I ignored it.

removed the back hinge rail
I thought I would replace this but I changed my mind and put it back on. The two ends are beveled but it is at the back and won't interfere with the lid opening or closing once I get the bottom half of the dust seal installed.

this is not a scratch
 Initially I got the blood flow stemmed but being stupid, I kept on working. And it would open up and start to bleed again. This is where my wife spent a lot of money to get some wound closing steri-strips along with a plethora of other bandage crappola. I think chinese for lunch helped with stopping the blood too. Maybe chow mien has a natural clotting effect.

the culprit
You would think that I would have learned something on the first scratch caused by this iron.  Like maybe take it out of the holder and put on the bench. Hmm, that made sense so that is why I mind farted that idea and just swore at it the first time. By the way, both were caused by me walking by it.
After I opened the second nice sized wound, I did take my head out of my arse and put it on the bench.

a couple of hours later
This is a Stanley 102 which I use for shit jobs like this. I did the first run around the lid just to remove the paint.

planed the inside too
The lid was a bit snug as it closes on the box. I used my bullnose plane and made a few runs on the inside of the lid.

reversed myself
I stopped playing with the toolbox and finished sharpening the iron that wounded me. There are no spring lines on the toe and I wasn't sure of how to plane this profile. I measured the plane width and nailed a scrap to run the plane against. It worked and I was able to plane the profile but I sensed that this isn't the correct way to do this.

ledge, hook, thing-a-ma-bob, what is this called
I hooked this on the edge of another piece of stock and planed away. I started with the plane tilted slightly upright and I slowly moved it inboard and down as I planed until it stopped making shavings. This way felt like it was the way to do it.

second profile done

profiles match up perfectly
 I will save these and they will be definitely used for something. I like this profile a lot. This is the perfect size to use as a band molding on a top that overhangs something.

back to the box
I got the front mitered to length. The sides are oversized and will be trimmed to size after the front is on.

my spacer
I saved this thin piece of pine and I'm going to use it as spacer between the top and bottom parts of the dust seal. I stopped here because I couldn't think of a way to hold the bottom piece's position while I screwed it from the inside. I don't want any nails or screws on the outside to show so I'll have to think of way to clamp it or something.

3/8" stock for the tills
The 5/16" resawn stock is history. I don't have the same skill set for resawing that Paul Sellers does. I hope to have it but for now I don't. I'll use 3/8" stock which I think is a better choice for a youngster.

it's working
It isn't pretty looking but I finally stopped bleeding. It's been a few hours and it is holding up.

UPS on a saturday
I didn't know that UPS did saturday deliveries. I didn't ask for one and this was free S/H from Lee Valley too.  When I had checked this online, it was scheduled for monday.

Lee Valley free shipping until the 11th
Got a brush and replacement irons for the 71.

1/4" and 1/8" irons
the Lee Valley irons are about a 1/2" longer
Lee Valley says in the catalog that these will fit the Stanley 71 and 71 1/2. You have to turn the thumb wheel screw around to do that.

tried two more molders
One of these is a 1/8" beader and the other one I don't have any idea what it is called. It looks like an astragal or beader depending upon how quickly you look at it. I had sharpened the iron and glued the boxing back in and forgot about it. I had no problems planing either of these profiles.

a flat, a bead, and a fillet
another grecian ovolo (bottom)
This is a dead on match for the first ovolo I did except for the fillet. This one has a flat where the fillet is on the other one.

the two ovolos
The sole profile on the non fillet ovolo doesn't look as deep as the fillet one but the profiles match up pretty good. This plane has no maker stamp and has the number 5 stamped on it besides a few different owners.

the two ovolo plane soles
last one
This is the one plane I wanted out of the 8 I won on the auction. This iron I will have to sharpen and hone. I'm finding that molding plane irons don't have to be anal retentive sharp like a bench plane iron in order to plane profiles. This iron is dull and rusty but yet it planed a good profile. It is clean and well defined end to end.

I may not be able to resaw worth a bucket of spit, but using molding planes is picking up for me. I tried five of them today and I went 5 for 5. The downside to that is I'm running out of room to stow them. My plane till is getting awfully crowded and making another one may get promoted to the A list.

Stanley 71 depth shoe
I found what I'm calling the depth shoe for the 71 in my Stanley catalogs. Some call it a special attachment and others call it an extra attachment. The cost of it in the Sweetheart catalog no. 120 was 50 cents. Still in the dark as to what it's intended purpose is.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the largest single drop waterfall in the US?
answer -  the Ribbon Waterfall in Yosemite National Park

Plane-setting Hammer

The Barn on White Run - Sat, 09/09/2017 - 4:04pm

Recently when I was visiting plane maker extraordinaire Steve Voigt I had the chance to use his Sterling plane setting hammer, and I liked it and said to myself, “Self, you gotta have one of those.  Right now.”  Since even in the era of the interwebs, on-line purchasing does not provide instantaneous delivery so I got up the next morning and made a plane setting hammer for myself, using scrap from my inventory of stuff.

My first step was to take a piece of brass and turn one end of the head on my wood lathe, which is easy enough to do when using turning chisels set up as scrapers rather than turning gouges (virtually all of my turning is with beefy scrapers with very rare use of gouges; it’s an old habit from my early years in the pattern shop).  I then turned a wooden end of the head from a scrap of lignum vitae, then drilled and tapped both sections and screwed and epoxied them together.

Then I grabbed a piece of exotic wood from the waste bin (probably bubinga) and made a handle in about ten minutes.  I drilled the hole in the head through which the handle passed, then used material from an ivory piano key as the wedges for the handle in the head.  All told I spend maybe 90 minutes on this hammer.

The result was immensely gratifying and its weight and proportions and performance have made it my “go to” tool for this purpose, and several folks I have shown it to have expressed interest in purchasing one.  Who knew?  I guess I will have to get set up to do it.  I might have to actually order some supplies.

Stickley Poppy Table – Art and Engineering

Bob Lang's ReadWatchDo - Sat, 09/09/2017 - 12:56pm
Before Gustav Stickley became “The Craftsman” he manufactured furniture in upstate New York. After twenty-some years in the business, he took a trip to Europe, where the Arts & Crafts movement was popular in England and L’art Nouveau was a Continue reading →
Categories: General Woodworking

Dovetailed Dustpan: Forget Plastic or Metal Pans

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 09/09/2017 - 2:00am

Forget plastic or metal pans – a wooden one looks nicer and works better. June 2017 Pages 38-41 by Christopher Schwarz Some time during the last 25 years of prowling around workshops, museums and antique stores, I spotted a wooden dustpan. The encounter made me slap my forehead – why do I have a plastic pan when I could build a wooden one from scraps? After studying commercial dustpans and […]

The post Dovetailed Dustpan: Forget Plastic or Metal Pans appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

took a sick day.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 09/09/2017 - 12:55am
I wasn't sick in the sense that I was ill but rather I had a couple of medical appointments today. I had to give blood at 0700 and the doctor appointment was at 1130.  Rather than go to work late and then leave again before lunchtime, I took the whole day off. I didn't get a lot of time in the shop but I did almost complete the 71 box.  Some time in the shop is better than no time in the shop.

changed my mind on this
I am going to use this to hold the depth rod and the shoe rather then stowing it on the router itself. If I don't need to use it I'll have to take it off the router and put in the box. I'll survive this plain Jane block to hold it somehow. I looked at all of my Stanley catalogs and none list spare parts for the 71. All the catalogs had at least the 71 but no write up on the parts. I guessing this shoe is used for a wide dado or tenon work.

1/8" plywood bottom
This is one of two boxes I started a few weeks ago. This will get a 1/8" plywood bottom and be done. No lid and no finish.

forgot to flush the bottom and check it for twist first
I glued this up and set it aside to set up.

6 coats
This will be done by the end of saturday for sure. I checked the lid and it slides in and out a bit stiffly. I think once the shellacing is done a little wax on the rabbets will make it slide in/out easily.

still no ideas on storage for these
I found a blurb in one catalog that stated this was a new and improved smoother. I don't know what was new or improved with it. This is the same view that is in the catalog. Maybe it has to do with the iron being screwed on to the shaft?

I don't know what I'll use this for because I think I finally might have enough boxes.

practice till stock
I watched a couple of episodes of Paul Seller's video on making a tool box. He made the tills for it 5/16" thick and he got it by resawing 3/4" stock. It's been a while since I last tried to resaw so I'll practice first on this short piece.

not a good start
This is after I had flipped it twice to saw on the opposite side.

the side I started first
This side doesn't look too bad but the side I can't see I went OTL (out to lunch) on.

this is crappola
I definitely need to practice more and I need to do a lot more than I'm doing now. This is not like not riding a bike for a long time and then riding it again.

I might be able to salvage the left one
It won't be 5/16" thick but I think a 1/4" is doable. I will save it and use it for something else.

not much room left
I am going to get a #6 for Miles (this is my #6). He will be rather young then and a #7 would be too big for him to master. I think the #6 is pushing that envelope a bit but he'll need something in the jointer range to start with.

I like this better
He is only getting two panel saws, one rip and one crosscut. I'm still looking to add a carcass and dovetail saw but I haven't found anything I like yet. Translation - it is looking to be cheaper to buy LN saws rather then old ones.

some of the tools for the till(s)
I'm thinking of putting in two tills. One that will be the same as the interior opening of the toolbox and a second one on top of that half the size.

sometimes you get lucky
I found this missing chip stuck to the underside of the lid. I super glued it back on.

derusting a molding plane iron
Doing the derusting with this 150 sanding stick is way easier than using a folded piece of a sandpaper that I usually use.

loose piece of boxing
I had two loose pieces but it looks like the other one got acclimated to the shop and it isn't loose anymore.

warming up the hide glue
The poly is keeping the hide glue in the water until it warms up.

got a hump on the back
back is flat now
I was going to quit here but I had to do one more thing.

coarse sharpening done
This is an interesting looking profile and I am very curious about how it will look. The iron matches the profile of the molding plane pretty good. I think once I get this honed I should be able to make a molding with it. From the wear on the plane sole it looks like plane was used a lot.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who is the only US President to have a national park named for him?
answer - Theodore Roosevelt


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