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|the till stock|
|Stanley 71 box done|
|it fits beneath the bearer for the till.|
|squared one end of the till pieces|
|squared the other end|
And that is the way it was, Wednesday, September 13, 2017.
45 rpm vinyl records when first made in 1949 and came in various colors. What did the color green mean?
answer - that it was a country record - Eddie Arnold had the first song on the first 45 made by RCA
I made this adapter to hook up dust collection to the odd-size fitting (2″) on my oscillating sander. Start with a hardwood block that is (in my case) is 3″ x 4″ x 11⁄4” thick. I required a 2″ hole, so I used a 2″ hole saw to drill in the middle of the block. The next thing is to drill the holes for the split-block-clamping and block-attachment holes. I drilled […]
The post Tricks of the Trade: Dust Collection for Ports of All Sizes appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.
Recently I was a presenter at the SAPFM Blue Ridge Chapter on the topic of saw sharpening. I would not call myself an accomplished saw sharpener mostly because my results are inconsistent, generally due to the lack of hours at the task. But there are times when the result is excellent, for example my favorite old back saw that I last sharpened sometime in the 1980s and has cut hundreds of joints since, and remains sharp and the cuts crisp and clean.
Using some oversized props I reviewed the notions of tooth spacing and shape (rake, and fleam), and how these come into play for crosscutting and ripping at varying degrees of scale, precision and effectiveness.
I the moved through the nearly unlimited options for holding the saw during sharpening, and finally set up to actually doing some sharpening under less-than-ideal conditions of a large lumber warehouse with diffuse illumination. I find that getting the lighting correct is perhaps the most important thing when sharpening a saw, and this setting wasn’t it.
My explanation of the process was certainly better than the actual sharpening during the demo, but I think the attendees got the idea.
As an aside, I was delighted I had my petite Roubo bench with me and realize that it has become a treasured part of my traveling side-show kit, as it fits neatly into the back of my S-10, is moved easily with a hand truck, and performs most excellently.
I've been working with wood since I was a kid. I took my first woodworking class at the 92nd Street Y when I was 6 years old. I've been taking classes and building stuff for over 35 years. For the last 17 I have been working at Tools for Working Wood. In that time, new tools and new techniques have come on the market. By and large I have ignored them in my personal work. However, I haven't ignored everything, and my methods of work have in certain areas changed dramatically for the better. I'll break up my list of ten things into three posts so I don't drone on and on here.
I learned on Arkansas stones and I still use them for sharpening carving tools. I really love the feel of the stones. But during the 1990 - 2010 era, I mostly used water stones. Over the years I used many different brands, but nonetheless all water stones. I still use water stones in the kitchen for sharpening knives, but for woodworking tools and when I teach sharpening I use diamond stones do all the rough work. I use an 8000 grit finishing stone at the end because I don't think the 8000 grit diamond stones are nearly as fine, but diamonds do everything else. You can read about my experiments here.
Diamond paste works well but it's too messy for me, and I worry about getting it into my eye. I don't use lapping film, although it's great and popular. For the amount of sharpening I do, it's not practical: I would just blow through too much film. I think lapping film is best for low cost-of-entry on a professional system and for traveling. Some people love lapping film because it's largely maintenance free. It also works well for odd profiles, but it's not for me. The major problem I used to have with diamond stones is that they would wear out quickly and weren't flat. The DMT Dia-Sharp stones solve the latter problem, and by not using them to flatten water stones I solve the former problem. DMT makes lapping plates for flattening water stones, but currently I don't have one (I should but I don't).
The main reason for the switch to diamonds is that I am a lazy sod who is always in a rush. My water stones got out of flat. Water was sloshing everywhere - I didn't do the needed regular flattening and I didn't have a good place for a bucket of water stones. I love Arkansas stones a lot, but for regular chisels and plane blades, I find them slow. For carving tools, diamonds can replace a medium India stone, but diamonds, while cutting fast, leave scratches which would add in a step or two.
I grew up on Titebond. Back in the 1980's we all felt so superior to those DIYers who still used - horrors! - Elmer's glue, while, we used real wood glue for gluing up our projects. And it was yellow too! What I hated then, and now, about Titebond is that if you ever got it on the wrong spot, you'd have the big hassle of cleaning the wood so that it could take finish. I still use Titebond for gluing Dominos and some other general tasks. But if there is any risk of surface contamination, I much prefer hide glue. Being mostly transparent to finishes = a massive time-saver for me. I don't use hot glue. I suppose I should, but I don't have a place to put the glue pot. I do most of my woodworking snatching odd moments and I just can't think ahead to soak glue pellets. (Why is it that every time I think of the word "pellets," I think of hamsters?) But Old Brown Glue is great stuff, is real hide glue, and put putting it out in the sun or on a radiator for a minute makes it perfect to use. So that's what I do.
When I first studied woodworking, it was generally accepted that sawing dovetails by hand was perfectly acceptable, but milling timber and cutting it by hand was a waste of time -- and really impossible to do well. However, in the early days of TFWW, I needed to build a couple of projects and for the first time I didn't have access to a table saw. At the same time, there was a major revival in backsaw manufacture, and a real re-evaluation of handsaws in general. On those early projects I ended up sawing lots and lots of maple by hand, and by the end of the project I was reasonably good at it. These days, I am much more likely to grab a handsaw than to wander back to see if the bandsaw is free. For plywood, I use a Festool plunge saw, but for everything else, I pretty much use our Hardware Store Saw. (I have wonderful Disston saws in my toolbox, but the display Hardware Store saw is physically closer and cuts faster). These days I expect myself to cut square by eye. Then normal procedure is to use a shooting board to complete the job (if real accuracy is needed).
I'll continue my list next time. What's on your list? I love traditional methods for doing stuff. I love history and the feeling that I am walking in the footsteps of those who went before us. On the other hand, I have limited time do build anything. and I value efficiency. I personally like developing hand skills rather than getting single purpose tools, and I am continually learning. So that's why I've change the way I work, and I will continue to change (I hope).
|not the title senior moment|
|it's a snug fit side to side|
|top of the scrap is the bottom of the bearer|
|getting the length of till|
|sawing the till parts to rough length|
|long side is about 3/16 too long|
|the same with the ends|
|choices for the bottom|
|first handle idea|
|the blog title senior moment|
|almost bottomed out|
|cutting it down|
|enough room to screw this in/out with my ham hock fingers|
|I would need a stubby|
|glued with hide glue - this will be done tomorrow|
|the man in brown came|
What is the birthday flower for November?
answer - chrysanthemum
Construction pine, the stuff you get at the big box stores, has a bad rap with woodworkers. It’s poorly dried, hard to work and moves way too much. It grows too fast so the grain is too wide and varied. It’s for carpentry projects… I also know this. It’s cheap, requires good tool techniques, needs proper design consideration and demands sharp edges. Which makes it perfect for new woodworkers, experiments […]
Finally, an exceptional grinder at a reasonable price!
Take a look at the Rikon 8 Inch Professional Low Speed Bench Grinder in this short video tour with Justin Moon. Justin shows how the Rikon grinder runs quietly and smoothly and details how it could be the perfect sharpening addition for your shop.
The post Product Video: Rikon 8 inch Professional Low Speed Bench Grinder appeared first on Woodworking Blog.
I like typing a Stanley tool. It's cool to see how it progressed from initial production to what you are holding in your hands now. The progression of the 71 was interesting. The special attachment didn't show up for over 10 years.
|been a day it should have set up|
|won't fit where I want it|
|it barely fits here|
Another problem is the weight is now all concentrated on this side of the box. Not a deal killer but there isn't much I can do about it.
|the lid clears the irons|
|still no screws for the fence|
|got a 16th now|
|bearer on the chain side|
|the till side|
|this looks to be enough room|
|grecian ovolo on the bottom, the top one I don't the name of it|
|better choice for the bearer|
|this should work|
On the Universal Product Code (bar code), what is signified by the digits 2 to 6?
answer - the Product's manufacturer as assigned by the Uniform Code Council
This is the first post in a series. Today we’ll have an introduction and list of the basic tools and materials you’ll need to complete a typical linoleum countertop project. Next week we’ll cover the process of prepping, adhering, trimming, and edging. Do you need a counter solution that’s durable, handsome and affordable – one you can make yourself? Consider linoleum. I moved into my home when it was a […]
Back to the auction gallery.
There were a few other auction items worthy of attention. First is this:
American Chippendale Blanket Chest.
Description: Late 18th century, white pine dove tailed case, lid with fishtail hinges and applied molded edge, interior with till to left side (lacking lid), base with two side by side lipped drawers, raised on ogee bracket feet with spurs.
Size: 29.5 x 48.5 x 23 in.
Condition: Wear and marring to top; missing lock; later pulls; feet have lost some height.
They called it a blanket chest while others might consider it a mule chest. The argument is that the drawers make it a mule chest but others say mule chests must be taller. Who knows?
Some interesting details:
Till lid is missing. Saw cuts were used to make the dados for the till and mortises for the hinges:
The breadboards on the lid are very narrow and really seem to be wide moldings more than ends designed to keep the lid flat.
Interestingly, they are attached with through tenons:
For a minute I thought the tenons were wedged but a closer look showed me that it wasn’t a wedge but a pinned tenon that suffered a break in the end grain where the pin came too close to the end of the tenon:
I like the pulls…
Next up is this:
Cherry Dovetailed Blanket Chest
Description: 19th century, hinged top with applied rounded edge, interior with till, applied molded base with turned peg feet.
Size: 23 x 38 x 18.5 in.
Condition: Later hinges with break outs and repairs; moth ball smell to interior; surface scratches.
There carcass is dovetailed. Really. Email me if you need to see the pictures.
I haven’t shown any secret compartments for a while so I owe you this.
There is a till on the left. Thetill appears shallower than the till front board would lead you to believe:
Not all that much or a secret really.
Note the arc of a groove on the chest’s lid caused by using the till lid as a stop.
Odd to find a boarded chest at a “better” auction but, here it is:
American Grain Bin
Description: 19th century, white pine, hinged lid, divided interior with two compartments, straight legs from the solid with half-moon cut.
Size: 26.5 x 30 x 16.5 in.
Condition: Rat chew to lid and front boards; tin patch to left side.
This piece had some remodeling done:
George III Chest of Drawers
Description: Early 19th century, mahogany, pine secondary, converted originally from a commode / wash stand, now with four graduated drawers, with a bracket foot base.
Size: 30 x 26 x 20 in.
Condition: Converted from wash stand to chest of drawers; later pulls; wear and chipping.
You see, in this chest, the two doors were rebuilt into two drawers. Original lower drawers are dovetailed:
Improvised upper drawers are dovetail-free:
Looking at the upper drawer fronts tells the story of its origin:
In review, this chest was initially built with two drawers below with two doors on top. The doors were cut up and converted into two drawer front giving the chest four drawers.
I like this sring pull, too.
Finally, apparently no recent blog of mine is complete without a Hitchcock chair. This blog is no exception:
James L. Ferguson’s Hamilton College Hitchcock Chair
Description: Late 20th century, black lacquered wood with gilt and painted decoration, back support with early scene of Hamilton College and signed S. Marshall, stenciled on seat rail “L. Hitchcock, Hitchcocks-ville Conn., Warranted” and gilt signed “James L. Ferguson ’49, Charter Trustee 1973-1988.”
Size: 31 x 24 x 16 in.
Condition: Some scuffs and light wear; overall good estate condition.
And here is the obligatory picture of the genuine stenciled logo:
I didn't get much done in the shop today but I did have a late day burst working on the 71 box. I figured out how to stow the three irons. I am still waiting on the screws to come in for the fence so that will hold up being 100% done with the box. Maybe I'll get them tomorrow.
|made a change with the banding|
|this will replace it|
|checking the two pieces|
|4 1/2 feet of molding shavings|
|yikes! the left hand molding came out like crap|
|right end molding (bottom) came out ok|
|4 1/2 isn't wide enough to use on the jig going R or L|
|surprisingly, this worked very well|
|I had to take one more trimming run|
|this should be more than enough wiggle room|
|right corner dialed in to set the short side|
|first rough cut and check|
|sneaking up on the fit|
|an hour later|
|I'm happy with this fit|
|off the saw|
|how I snuck up on the fit|
|how I kept my placement of the molding|
|clipped them off close|
|box lid lightly clapped shut|
|two sides done|
|one more piece and this will be done|
|the 71 box|
|got an idea for stowing the irons|
|nailed the miters|
|I screwed this down rather then glue it|
|two of the screws broke off|
|I can hide these two|
|first screw hole hidden|
|using hide glue for this in case I need to reverse or repair it|
|my iron storage idea|
Tomorrow I will plane and clean this up. I think I might have enough room on the right to put the fence there. If I don't I will make something else to hold the fence. I glued this and set aside to set up.
The US $500 bill was discontinued in 1969 but they are still legal tender. Whose picture was on it?
answer - President William McKinley
It’s been ages and ages since I did any turning on a regular basis. I have a lot of it coming up this fall and winter, and in preparation for that work, I decided to start with some joined stools. The first one is in walnut instead of oak.
My lathe is the last piece in the workshop puzzle; as it is now, it’s been buried under/behind 2 chests, and all sorts of wood, projects, etc. So I shoved all that aside and turned these stiles recently. I started the first session with sharpening the gouges and skews, and turned one stile. So the next morning I did the other three. I’ve covered this stuff in the joined stool book and the wainscot chair video with Lie-Nielsen – but here’s some of it. First off, mark the centers on each end. I scribed the diagonal lines, then set a compass to see what size circle, and how centered it was (or wasn’t). I decided it needed a nudge a bit this way & that – so when I punched the center, I moved a little bit over.
Then rough out the cylindrical bits –
Then I use a story-stick to mark where to cut the various elements of the turnings, here one cove is cut and I’m lining up the stick to locate the other details.
I alternate between a skew chisel and narrow gouges to form the shapes.
Once I was finished with the turnings, time to bore the tenons for the pins, and assemble. Here, roman numerals ID the stretcher-to-stile.
Mark the joint, and bore the peg hole in the tenon.
No one, NO ONE, likes the way I shave pegs. I’ve done thousands this way, and it seems to work for me.
The peg-splitting & shaving tools; cleaver (riving knife) by Peter Ross; tapered reamer by Mark Atchison (for opening holes when the offset for drawboring is too severe), 2″ framing chisel.
Make a bunch of tapered pins and hammer them in one-by-one. I line it up over a hole in the bench so the pin can exit.
After assembling two sections, then knock in the angled side rails, and pin the whole thing.
Frame assembled, wants some walnut for the seat board. I have a wood-shopping trip coming up…I don’t have 11″ wide walnut around.
All the joined stool work is covered in detail in the book I did with Jennie Alexander – I have a few copies left for sale, (leave me a comment if you’d like to order one, $43 shipped in US) or get it from Lost Art Press – https://lostartpress.com/products/make-a-joint-stool-from-a-tree
In the last online course released from 360 Woodworking (Inlaid Tea Caddy), hot sand was used to shade pieces of veneer to make rays for quarter, round and oval fans. This past week I was back at it to make a different hot-sand inlay for an upcoming project, a Pembroke Table. The legs of the table are strung, have a small inlaid circle to cover a pivot point for the stringing and have a cuff band, in addition to the sand-shaded inlay.
This week we recieved a lot of great feedback from the propane forge video that we posted to facebook. It’s a simple project to get you started forging for under $100. If you enjoy that clip, you must check out the rest of the video, Build a Viking Tool Chest. We also announced the winner of the Popular Woodworking Magazine Excellence awards. The Editor’s Choice went to Al Spicer for […]
|Ohio tool catalog|
|stock to complete the dust seal|
|I chamfered the overhang|
|leaves a gap I don't like|
|the first cut on my left forearm|
|removed the back hinge rail|
|this is not a scratch|
After I opened the second nice sized wound, I did take my head out of my arse and put it on the bench.
|a couple of hours later|
|planed the inside too|
|ledge, hook, thing-a-ma-bob, what is this called|
|second profile done|
|profiles match up perfectly|
|back to the box|
|3/8" stock for the tills|
|UPS on a saturday|
|Lee Valley free shipping until the 11th|
|1/4" and 1/8" irons|
|the Lee Valley irons are about a 1/2" longer|
|tried two more molders|
|a flat, a bead, and a fillet|
|another grecian ovolo (bottom)|
|the two ovolos|
|the two ovolo plane soles|
I may not be able to resaw worth a bucket of spit, but using molding planes is picking up for me. I tried five of them today and I went 5 for 5. The downside to that is I'm running out of room to stow them. My plane till is getting awfully crowded and making another one may get promoted to the A list.
|Stanley 71 depth shoe|
What is the largest single drop waterfall in the US?
answer - the Ribbon Waterfall in Yosemite National Park
Recently when I was visiting plane maker extraordinaire Steve Voigt I had the chance to use his Sterling plane setting hammer, and I liked it and said to myself, “Self, you gotta have one of those. Right now.” Since even in the era of the interwebs, on-line purchasing does not provide instantaneous delivery so I got up the next morning and made a plane setting hammer for myself, using scrap from my inventory of stuff.
My first step was to take a piece of brass and turn one end of the head on my wood lathe, which is easy enough to do when using turning chisels set up as scrapers rather than turning gouges (virtually all of my turning is with beefy scrapers with very rare use of gouges; it’s an old habit from my early years in the pattern shop). I then turned a wooden end of the head from a scrap of lignum vitae, then drilled and tapped both sections and screwed and epoxied them together.
Then I grabbed a piece of exotic wood from the waste bin (probably bubinga) and made a handle in about ten minutes. I drilled the hole in the head through which the handle passed, then used material from an ivory piano key as the wedges for the handle in the head. All told I spend maybe 90 minutes on this hammer.
The result was immensely gratifying and its weight and proportions and performance have made it my “go to” tool for this purpose, and several folks I have shown it to have expressed interest in purchasing one. Who knew? I guess I will have to get set up to do it. I might have to actually order some supplies.
Forget plastic or metal pans – a wooden one looks nicer and works better. June 2017 Pages 38-41 by Christopher Schwarz Some time during the last 25 years of prowling around workshops, museums and antique stores, I spotted a wooden dustpan. The encounter made me slap my forehead – why do I have a plastic pan when I could build a wooden one from scraps? After studying commercial dustpans and […]
|changed my mind on this|
|1/8" plywood bottom|
|forgot to flush the bottom and check it for twist first|
|still no ideas on storage for these|
|practice till stock|
|not a good start|
|the side I started first|
|this is crappola|
|I might be able to salvage the left one|
|not much room left|
|I like this better|
|some of the tools for the till(s)|
|sometimes you get lucky|
|derusting a molding plane iron|
|loose piece of boxing|
|warming up the hide glue|
|got a hump on the back|
|back is flat now|
|coarse sharpening done|
Who is the only US President to have a national park named for him?
answer - Theodore Roosevelt