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After four months of greatly reduced activity during recuperation, the last two months in nearly constant travel (family friend’s wedding in Maryland, family and friends in Minnesota, family Thanksgiving in Nebraska, family Christmas in California, interviews for articles, my Mom’s 100th birthday in Florida, etc.) this week I am returning to the shop, nearly full time and nearly fully two-handed. Except for some very brief times out into the great big wide world I expect to be there about every day for many months ahead instead of the occasional forays of the recent past.
I’ve got a boatload of interesting projects there and will strive to blog three or four times a week, unless I really get up a head of steam.
It is good to be back home.
|left over foam|
|a slight left turn|
|the wood I wanted to use|
|from the kitchen cabinet demo|
|3 down and one more to go|
|separated the foam|
|picked these two|
|time out for my new acquisitions|
|the 3rd year of the war for Britain|
|my newest molding plane|
|E Preston & Sons|
|perfection end to end|
|back of the iron|
|the profile side|
|bought a piece of foam at Wally World|
|didn't cut it|
|sheetrock nkife worked fine|
|prepped the drawer openings|
This is about where I got my I feel like crap and tired feeling. I painted the spice rack and called it a day.
Arachnophobia is a fear of spiders. Who is effected more by this, men or women?
answer - women are effected 4 times more than men
Back in the summer, my wife bought a dresser from a couple in Kentucky on the Longest Yard Sale for $20. The dresser wasn’t in the best shape as most of the drawers were beat up , but we decided to buy it anyway because we knew we would be able to re-purpose it into something other than a dresser.
We decided to turn the dresser into a wine cabinet so I had to remove the rails from the middle of the case. I grabbed my Fein MultiMaster and cut off the tenons that attached the rails to the frame.
I cleaned up the middle of the case and strengthened the case where it needed with glue and clamps.
The cabinet opening was 25 1/2″ square so I designed the inside to accommodate as many wine bottles as possible. I played with different measurements until I decided on 4″ square holes to fit the wine bottles.
While building a couple of grids, I test fitted them to make sure they would hold a wine bottle without falling through. I made the grids from southern yellow pine and each bar is about 3/4″ square, 12″ long with a chamfer on the front.
I built the rest of the grids and tested their fit again. The cabinet would be able to hold 25 wine bottles.
Since the bottom of the cabinet was now open to the floor, I added a piece of 1/4″ plywood to the base of the cabinet.
And because I added the plywood to the bottom, I had to trim a 1/4″ off the bottom to all my grids. Using my panel cutter and a hand clamp, I was able to cut all the grids to the same length.
After test fitting everything together, all the grids came together nicely. I installed a 1/4″ piece of plywood to the back of the grids so that the wine bottle wouldn’t fall through the back.
Satisfied with the grids, I turned my attention to the drawer and glued a new piece of wood to the bottom of one side as it was damaged. The drawer wasn’t opening smoothly so this repair helped out a lot.
Because the grids were freshly cut wood, I wanted to age them to match the piece, so I brushed on an apple cider vinegar and steel wool solution to darken them up.
My wife painted the inside of the case black and the outside grey with milk paint to let some of the original finish show through. She then stained the top with a gel stain and applied three coats of Waterlox varnish. This cabinet is now ready for years of use under its new life.
When I lived in the USA I discovered a line of sash clamps made for Harbor Freight, a US chain supplying DIY building and engineering products, mostly low-end quality. The clamps were made from extruded aluminium boxing with an alloy head and shoe and whereas they were not at all a top quality, they were …
Two nails would be even better. Next week?
Habe ein schnelles Streichmaß aus einem Abschnitt gemacht. 7 mm Loch für den Bleistift, 2 mm Loch für den Nagel. Ein paar mehr für unterschiedliche Abstände. Normalerweise lasse ich den Finger am Rand mitgleiten. Aber mit einem Streichmaß ist der Abstand an alesn 4 Seiten gleich. Zwei Nägel wären wohl noch besser. Nächste Woche?
I have to admit. “It’s a beaut, Clark,” was the first thing that popped into my mind as I stood in front of this table.
If you’ve unearthed a stash of old, useless tools, you may be interested in building a table similar to the one I found at an antique mall. (A store which will, from this day forward, be referred to as a junk shop.) I’m talking about tools that have little left to offer besides being a home for rust and decay.
There are a few places with rust pitting, but nothing more than what can be ground away.
I think the vinegar I used was a bit weak compared to what I have used at home, but it got the job done all right.
The blank was first planed flat and square on two reference surfaces that would then be used for laying out the various lines.
For the body I have relied heavily on this article by Darrel LaRU. As Kari Hultman discovered, there is a small thing that is not mentioned in the article, namely that the blade shouldn't sit parallel with the bottom of the plane.
Armed with all this excellent information, I marked out an angle of 60 degrees and one of 10 degrees. The 60 degrees would work fine since my blade is somewhat wider than the blade used by Darrel LaRu. The 10 degrees frog angle would allow me to make a screw up and still stay in the ball park.
In order to find the angles I resorted to some good old trusted mathematics and used a tangential function of a calculator. I did this mainly because it is easy and it was faster than going all the way up to the bridge and borrow a drafting angle.
Making the cut out for the blade was done using a hacksaw (as usual) and some chisels. I ended up using a file to smooth out the bottom so it was as flat as I could get it.
The thing to aim for is that the two corners of the blade are parallel with the top of the plane body. I think that I could have made my cut out a little bit deeper, as that would have allowed me to advance the blade a bit more without getting a thick shaving. Instead I'll have to move the outside fence in a bit on the body. But that is OK with me. The function will still be the same.
After making a wedge to fit the angle, I drilled the escapement hole. I used a 20 mm drill (a bit more than 3/4"). I used the large drill press for that operation.
I ripped a piece of beech to make the back fence. This fence will cover the hole for the blade, and it will also hold the wedge. I just planed one face and one edge of this piece, and mounted it temporarily with the help of a couple of clamps to test the plane.
After the test I marked out the position of the fence and glued it in place.
I like it best when wooden planes are glued together. I may regret that if I have to make some serious adjustment later on, but I think it will look fine.
I am following a bit of the same principles when I am building a small chest out here. I try to make most of the inaccuracies to the outside, and then once all is complete I can square it up and make it look nice.
Maybe you better sit down before you read this next sentence or two. I think I finally have all the tools and toys I need, for the foreseeable future. I think I have finally crossed the line in the sand between a tool user to a tool collector. But I like the title of a tool custodian much better than a tool collector.
I've looked through the LN tool catalog 2,385 bazillion times so far. I have it memorized and I can ruminate through it in my mind and still come up with nothing. Some choices I've thought of so far to get:
3/4" tongue and groove plane - I have a boatload of wooden ones that I can use. Some I have to fettle a bit but I'll get to them sooner or later.
rip or crosscut panel saw - No need for that as I finally got 3 rip saws and more crosscut saws than I will ever need or will be able to use.
bench planes - The LN bench planes are super nice. The only one I really wanted is the miter plane that they no longer make. I find their other planes, although very well made, are too heavy. I prefer the older Stanley's which are lighter and they perform just as well as any LN plane.
block plane - I have the high angle big block plane (9 1/2) and I thought of getting the low angle 60 1/2 sibling. But I don't use the 9 1/2 that often now that I have the smaller LA102 and the HA 103. I use these two small block planes before I reach for the bigger LN 9 1/2.(LN doesn't make and sell a HA version block plane in any flavor anymore.)
Auriou rasp - I have Auriou rasps and I like them a lot. I have tried to order some in the past but the ones I wanted were always out of stock. I am pretty content with the ones I have and the couple of japanese ones I bought in place of the Aurious I couldn't get. I have pretty much convinced myself that I don't need any other Auriou rasps.
I went through the whole catalog and everything I looked at I no longer lusted for. I think the leading candidate for purchase are the side rabbet planes. I have the Stanley 79 and it works but the irons in it are crap and need to be replaced. It would be easier to find a cup full of hen's teeth then finding a decent pair of them for a reasonable price. If I get them I will be able to get replacement irons as long as LN still makes it and is still in business when I need one. That is argument I'm having with myself so far but I don't know who is winning. Good thing GC's don't expire.
|my small planes|
|gone from lots to almost no use at all|
The edge plane has been demoted to squaring thin stock only now (less then 3/8 thick).
|the big boys|
|Stanley and LV jacks|
I like the LV jack plane better than the Stanley. It takes a wider shaving, the iron stays sharper much longer, it has an adjustable mouth, and it is a few frog hair longer. When I bought this, it was a toss up between it and the LN #5. The LV won because it had a wider iron. I use this plane now for end grain work or on the shooting board for doing angles.
|my two 4 1/2's|
|this pushed me over the line (can you tell I love planes)|
|Stanley 10 1/2|
|my go to planes - 4 1/2 and a 4|
|my go to marking gauge|
|my go to trio|
|way too many|
I am picky in what I want and also what I am willing to pay for it. On Stanleys I like types 10 to13and I don't want any types above this. On molding planes, I prefer British made ones from about 1850 to the turn of the 1900's. Most of the american made planes I have are pale cousins compared to the British ones.
Of course this hunting will be put on hold for now until I get my new workbench built. I got enough money saved up and next payday I'll buy the Benchcrafted end vise.
What are you afraid if you suffer from Xylophobia?
answer - a fear of wooden objects
Joe from London sent me these pictures of some of his lighting designs using oversize lights and bulbs which look fantastic
He's starting a new venture selling these shortly which I'm sure will do very well. I'll post details when the website is up and running.
I have been cutting some moldings lately for a chest with drawers I’m building. The moldings surround the panels, and the drawer fronts. While I was cutting these, I was thinking about this blog. I started it in 2008, and never thought it would keep going this long. Because I didn’t know what I was doing, I never really organized it well. So there’s lots of photos spread out all over the blog that are useful…but sometimes hard to find. Today, I thought I could just post some photos of period moldings found on New England joined works. So here’s pictures.
a chest from Salem, Massachusetts: Tearout, anyone?
a chest with drawers, Plymouth Colony. This large molding (2″ tall) is integral to the rail, not applied.molding details, Plymouth Colony chest
Inside one of the Plymouth Colony chests, moldings on the rails and muntins:interior, Ply Col chest w drawers
Here’s a panel detail from Plymouth Colony. This is a common profile for the period, technically an ogee with a fillet, I think:
This one’s from Chipstone’s website – a Boston chest panel:
This is a muntin from a chest made in Braintree, Massachusetts. I used to make this molding with a scratch stock. I think that cutter is gone now…
This Connecticut (Wethersfield? Windsor? I can never get it straight) chest with drawers was the model we copied last time at Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking. These moldings are oak:
A lousy photo, but if you squint at the ruler’s shadow, you can see the profile of this molding. Dedham Massachusetts chest.
Also Dedham, different chest:
Back to Connecticut, more Wethersfield, Windsor, etc.
a drawer from a Woburn, Massachusetts cupboard:
An ogee on the bottom edge of a table’s apron. Maybe this square table is Boston?
With the impending release of the standard edition of “With All the Precision Possible: Roubo on Furniture,” we have received lots of questions about the deluxe edition of this book. We don’t know many details at this moment, but here’s everything I know.
The design process for the deluxe edition of “Roubo on Furniture” will begin shortly. Designer Wesley Tanner created both the standard and deluxe editions of “Roubo on Marquetry” – and he designed the standard edition of “Roubo on Furniture.”
The deluxe “Roubo on Furniture” will look and feel the same as the deluxe “Roubo on Marquetry.” Same paper, same binding, same slipcase. We likely will use the same printing press and bindery. So it will be as stunning as the deluxe “Roubo on Marquetry,” which was named one of the 50 “Books of the Year” in 2013 by the Design Observer.
Here’s what’s going to be different: the thickness of the book (it’s almost twice as long as “Roubo on Marquetry”) and the way we will handle pre-publication orders.
Once we get a feel for how many pages the deluxe edition will be, we will be able to set a price – I’m going to guess that it’s going to be be about $475. Then we will open up pre-publication ordering for both domestic and international customers. Everyone who orders a book will get a book (and will get their name listed in the book as a “subscriber.”) After taking pre-publication orders for a month or so, we will close down ordering and go to press. We might print a few dozen extras for ourselves and family, but we are not going to stock this book in our online store after the pre-ordering period.
Then, when the book is done, we’ll mail them out in a custom cardboard (repeat: cardboard) box to protect the book during shipment.
The books will *not* be numbered or autographed. In 2013 we had many people request that we have all the authors sign the marquetry book. We simply cannot do that. We are not in the business of creating collectibles. Apologies.
So now you know everything I know. We’ll get to work on the deluxe edition and update you when we have more information.
— Christopher Schwarz
Filed under: To Make as Perfectly as Possible, To Make as Perfectly as Possible, Roubo Translation, Uncategorized
Blacksmith Peter Ross recently sent me a link to the video below that shows production nailmaking of shoe nails in a town in Austria. These guys are working at breakneck speed – forget those modern videos you see of amateur smiths working in their garages. If you’ve never read about pre-industrial nail production, it was a hard life. In the United Kingdom and its colonies, nailmaking was many times a […]
When you shoot end grain with a handplane, you have to be wary of spelching – when the end grain breaks off at the end of your stroke. There are several ways to avoid spelching; one of the quick ways is to use sandpaper. This trick works best when you are just trying to clean up some end grain by removing tool marks. If you are instead trying to correct […]
Part One: Questions & Answers about Mills & Bits Yes, the topic of CNC mills can be complicated. Because of the overwhelming minutiae of design detail and a bewildering number of choices, there’s more than enough to intimidate any CNC user. But, it doesn’t have to be that way. Fortunately, woodworkers have a fairly narrow focus: Cutting wood on a CNC. We have special considerations to consider but the good […]
I have decided that I want to replicate the shelf that I made for my 9th grade sloyd exam. It is a small shelf intended to be mounted in a kitchen, with a dowel beneath it for holding a towel or holding a set of hooks that can be used for hanging various utensils.
The overall dimensions of my shelf will be pretty much like the old one that I made. Back then we had 3 hours to complete the build as far as I remember, but we were supplied with processed stock, so basically we only had to do the joinery.
I quickly scribbled down the measurements of the original before going to sea, so I have those to go out from.
This time I have to do stock preparation too, and I figured that I could perhaps use my new Stanley combination plane to make some decorative moulding as well.
As a small challenge to myself I think I will try to see if I can complete the build without using any metal fasteners.
I might try to make a sliding dovetail for the corners to attach to the underside of the shelf.
The corners and the backside of the shelf will then be glued to the back piece. I can then add a few pegs to reinforce it.
The dowel will be wedged into place.
My overall plan of action is to find a decent set of pallet sides during the coming week for the stock.
Come Saturday the 28th, I'll start with crosscutting the shelf to the approximate length, and the set of corners. The dowel will probably be ripped from the shelf piece.
The parts of the back piece will be made from the same length of wood, and I'll rip it to the correct width.
Next there will be some planing to do. The shelf and the corners are approximately 5/8" thick, and the parts of the back piece are 3/8". The dowel too is 5/8".
I am toying with the idea of decorating the back piece with a moulding along all the edges. I'll probably have to make a bit of testing first though.
If I choose to make mouldings, the back piece will be a little more difficult to assemble.Instead of a regular half lap joint with square cuts, it will require the corners to be cut of in a 45 degree angle, so allow the moulding to follow the side around the corner.
If you haven't already signed up for participation it this event, there is still time to do so.
The requirements for entering are very accommodating:
-You have to build the piece in the weekend of January 28/29.
-You decide what you want to build.
-You decide how you want to build it (hand tools, power tools, genetically modifying a plant to grow into the shape of a shelf, carve a shelf out of a rock etc.)
-Share the process online via social media (#WSBO), blog, and/or forum.
- There is no registration fee, and the WSBO is open to all inhabitants on this planet. So whether you live in Andorra, Zimbabwe or in a place that starts with a letter in between - you can participate.
Please check in on the page of Chris Wong and see the full details.
|out of the clamps and checking it for square|
|diagonal corner is still square too|
|step one: plane the slips flush and square to the sides|
|done - flush and square|
|checking to see what I am up against|
|the left side|
|right hand side|
|planed halfway down the side|
|repeated it on the other side|
|went in a little bit more|
|some improvement on the right|
|taming my just one more swipe sickness|
|not quite 1/2 way in|
|right is getting better|
|planing the other half of the drawer|
|a little bit past 1/2 way|
|stopped here to look at this from the back|
|got some rub marks on the drawer side|
|a little more than 2/3 of the way in now|
|the exception - using the record 073|
|closed but it is snug|
|three more cycles later|
|not too noticeable|
|I like them inset slightly|
|my wife likes them flush|
|I like shaker knobs|
|the one on the right looks to be the best choice|
What is hippopotomonstrosesquipedaliophobia?
answer - a fear of long words
At long last, you can now order “With All the Precision Possible: Roubo on Furniture” from the Lost Art Press store. The price is $57 and the book will ship in March.
Customers who order the book before it ships will receive a free immediate download of a pdf of the book. This offer will end on the day this book ships. As always, the $57 price includes the cost of shipping to customers in the United States and Canada. International customers will be able to order the book from our retailers. (Sorry, but the offer of a free download is not available for international customers.)
Representing a decade of work by an international team (Donald C. Williams, Michele Pietryka-Pagán & Philippe Lafargue), this book is the first English translation of the 18th-century masterpiece: “l’art du Menuisier” by André-Jacob Roubo. This, our second volume, covers Roubo’s writing on woodworking tools, the workshop, joinery and building furniture.
In addition to the translated text and images from the original, “With All the Precision Possible: Roubo on Furniture” also includes five contemporary essays on Roubo’s writing by craftsmen Christopher Schwarz, Don Williams, Michael Mascelli, Philippe Lafargue and Jonathan Thornton.
You can download the complete table of contents here.
“Roubo on Furniture” is filled with insights into working wood and building furniture that are difficult or impossible to find in both old and modern woodworking books. Unlike many woodworking writers of the 18th century Roubo was a traditionally trained and practicing joiner. He interviewed fellow craftsmen from other trades to gain a deep and nuanced view of their practices. He learned to draw, so almost all of the illustrations in this book came from his hand.
The above facts are important because many early woodworking books are filled with information that is not quite right and drawings that were made by non-woodworkers. Not so with Roubo.
No matter what sort of woodworking you do or your skill level, we think “Roubo on Furniture” will expand greatly your knowledge of how fine furniture was (and still should be) built.
Like all Lost Art Press books, “Roubo on Furniture” is made entirely in the United States with quality binding and materials. All of the acid-free pages are sewn together and then bonded with a fiber tape so the book will not fall apart. The cover is a heavy and stiff board covered with cotton cloth. The book is 8.5” x 12” (the same size as “Roubo on Marquetry”) and is 472 pages.
— Christopher Schwarz
Filed under: To Make as Perfectly as Possible, To Make as Perfectly as Possible, Roubo Translation, Uncategorized
Compass saw, are they still valid saws? Well, in my view, yes! Especially if you do indeed want more from using hand tools than their mechanised alternatives. You’ll be surprised how effectively they work provided you do indeed understand basics manufacturers of mass-made saws usually don’t. We’ll cover that as we go. Working on the …
Read the full post Compass Saws Versus Table Saws-Or What’s the Difference? on Paul Sellers' Blog.
The massive French workbench we sold yesterday here on the blog is the subject of an upcoming video on building traditional slab workbenches. Woodworker Will Myers and I built the bench in only three days. And even though we both work on our feet all day, we are both whipped.
The video takes a different tactic than other presentations. Will and I show various ways to tackle each joint in the bench, from 100 percent hand tool to 100 percent power tool and the techniques between those extremes.
As Will and I have built a ton of workbenches (actually more like 132 tons), we also call out what we think are the best techniques for each joint. Some of our conclusions might surprise you, even if you’ve followed both of us for a while.
We also dive deep into strategies for working with wet slabs. This slab was cut only 12 months ago.
The workbench video will be sold streaming on our site and will be available for international customers. It also will include drawings, cutting lists and a list of supplies. I’m guessing it will be available in about seven weeks or so. No work on pricing yet I’m afraid.
We shot the video at the Popular Woodworking Magazine studio with a crew of three seasoned video and sound engineers. I have been 100-percent thrilled with F+W’s work on videos in the past, and so it was an obvious choice to hire them to shoot our video. So expect a lot of great close-up camera work and excellent sound.
In the meantime, enjoy the photos I took of the construction progress. I swear I did 50 percent of the work on the workbench; I was the guy who brought a camera to the shoot.
— Christopher Schwarz
Filed under: Workbenches
Asher, who turned two last week, shows a promising appetite for woodworking tools. He is a frequent visitor to my home shop, where he examines the tools that he can reach. Mainly he’s drawn to clamps, bench bulls and, recently, a great looking Stanley Handyman hand drill that I salvaged from the trash two months ago. When I say “I salvaged from the trash” I mean I actually picked it up […]
The post Tool Lubrication & Asher’s First Eggbeater Hand Drill – Part 1 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.