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General Woodworking

Bradley McCalister Talks Wood & Tools Used When Turning – 360w360 E.246

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 08/24/2017 - 3:38am
Bradley McCalister Talks Wood & Tools Used When Turning – 360w360 E.246

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking, Bradley McCalister is back to talk about his favorite woods to work with on the lathe, and we discuss various tools used when turning, including scroll chucks, traditional turning tools and turning tools that have interchangeable cutters.

Join 360 Woodworking every Thursday for a lively discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more). Glen talks with various guests about all things woodworking and some things that are slightly off topic.

Continue reading Bradley McCalister Talks Wood & Tools Used When Turning – 360w360 E.246 at 360 WoodWorking.

Multiples Stack Up or Measure Up (you pick)

Wunder Woods - Wed, 08/23/2017 - 9:38pm

I am a woodworker, and as a woodworker I live by a certain set of norms which dictate that I be accurate, but not ridiculously accurate. After all, wood changes size all of the time, so there is a limit to how accurate we can be and how much we should really worry about it. For most of us, a few measurements in a job are critical and the rest of the pieces are fit to look good. We may use measurements as a jumping off point, but it isn’t uncommon to trim a bit here and plane a bit there.

When I am in the shop, I always have a tape measure hanging off of my pocket for anything that needs to be measured. I use it a lot, but mostly for rough measurements, like making sure a piece of wood will be big enough for what I have in mind. I also use it for more critical measurements, but I try my best to find ways to not use measurements when things start to get critical. For example, instead of measuring, I will use a scrap piece of wood as a spacer. That way I don’t need to worry every time about reading the tape measure wrong, and I know that all of my spacing will be very consistent.

As much as I try to avoid being fussy about my measurements, sometimes they need to be a little more accurate. One of the tools where accuracy is important is the planer. If I want 1″ thick wood, I want to know that it is 1″. Now, more engineery people might reach for their calipers, but for those of you like me, with only a tape measures on your belt, I have a very accurate way to make perfectly sized parts – just stack them up.

The target for this table saw run was 1″. The samples from the cut were close, especially the one in the middle, but adding all of them up confirms that they are a bit wide.

Here’s the logic. If your measurements are just slightly off, you may not notice it in just one piece, but as you add up the pieces you also add up the differences and they become much more obvious. Just run a scrap piece of wood through the planer, chop it into 3, 4 or 5 pieces, stack them up and measure them. 5 pieces of wood that are 1″ thick should measure 5″ – simple de dimple. If your 1″ thick board isn’t exactly 1″ thick, you will see it, even without calipers, and then you can adjust the thickness.

That’s better! Three pieces measure 3″ wide. The average is 1″. Let’s run some parts!

The beauty of this system is two-fold. First off, you don’t need to worry about having calipers (after all, those are for kids that work at Boeing and have really clean floors). Second, it gives you a more accurate real-world reading of what is coming out of your machine. We all know that a board coming out of the planer has dips and doodles in the wood and can range in thickness depending on the spot that you measure. Adding up several pieces of wood gives you not only a measurement that is accurate, but it is also closer to the average. We are only talking small amounts here, but if you are setting up to plane a bunch of lumber, it is great to know what the bulk of it is going to measure.

When running enough wood through the planer to make thousands of little sticks with thousands of little spaces, as in this wine cellar racking, accurate tool setup is critical and easy to verify by stacking up multiples.

I use this system to double-check measurements on other tools as well. It works great on the table saw to make sure that your 3″ wide board is really 3″. Instead of cutting just one sample board 3″ wide and determining that it looks really close, cut 3 or more and add them up. Assuming that you can do a little simple math, you will be able to tell if the 3″ mark is consistently spitting out 3″ boards and not 2-63/64″ boards.

When using my fancy measuring shortcut, there is one important rule to follow. Make sure the tongue on your tape measure is accurate or don’t use the tongue at all. If you don’t trust the tongue on your tape measure then take a reading starting at the 1″ mark to check the distance and then just subtract 1″ from your reading (and then hope that a holiday is quickly approaching that might lend itself to the arrival of a new tape measure).


Categories: General Woodworking

Tricks of the Trade – Sander Circle Jig: Make Perfectly Round Wheels Quickly

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 08/23/2017 - 9:38am

I find myself needing a lot of small circles for use on wooden toys. When I cut those disks out with a circle-cutting jig on the band saw, the edge is a little too rough, so I’ve made a fixture for the disk sander that makes quick work of sanding the wheels perfectly round and smooth. A ledger strip on the bottom plate of the fixture fits into the sander’s […]

The post Tricks of the Trade – Sander Circle Jig: Make Perfectly Round Wheels Quickly appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Bowls and spoons for sale, Aug 23 2017

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Wed, 08/23/2017 - 9:25am

 

Some items finished up lately. The first two in a series of bird bowls. I had some very large crooks recently, made some large spoons then dedicated some of these oversized crooks to bowls. And, a small run of straight-grained serving/cooking spoons.

I got some questions about the bowls, what does the blank look like? – here is a roughed-out bowl superimposed on top of its other half of the crook – had to cradle the crook in a notched block so it would stand for its photo. Gives some idea of where you can find these in a tree. They can be trouble to split. This one was 5″ in diameter, and 24″ tip to tip. Cherry.

 

and here is that roughed-out bowl grabbed between two wooden bench dogs – this is how I get at it to do the gouge work. If I keep getting crooks like this, I’m going to make a larger more robust set of these dogs. Note the notches in the inside faces.

If you would like to order a spoon or bowl, just leave a comment here about which one you’d like. Then I can send a paypal invoice,  or you can mail a check the old fashioned way. Either one is fine with me. Prices include shipping in the US – further afield and I’ll figure an additional shipping charge. Thanks as always for the support.

All these items are finished with food-grade flax oil.

—————————–

cherry bird bowl –

L: 15″  H: (at front) 7 1/4″
$500

 

Birch bowl – SOLD
L: 10 3/4″ H: (at front) 7 1/4″

SPOONS –

Aug spoon 1 – cherry, crook. This spoon blank left me with a very long, narrow bowl. Overall a long spoon. Great crook shape, I couldn’t resist.

L: 13 7/8″   W:  2 1/8″
$125 includes shipping in US

——-

Large cherry crook #3

L: 13″  W: 3 1/2″
$150 includes shipping in US

—————-

Large cherry crook #2

L: 13″  W:  4″
$150 includes shipping in US.

 

————-

Now, a series of straight-grained spoons for cooking or serving.

—————–

Aug spoon #1; birch

L: 11″  W: 2 5/8″
$85

—————-

Aug spoon #2; birch

L: 10 1/2″  W: 2 1/2″
$85

 

—————–

Aug spoon #3; birch

L: 10 1/2″  W: 2 5/8″
$85

—————

Aug spoon #4; birch  SOLD

L: 9 1/2″  W: 2 1/2″
$85

——————

Aug spoon #5; birch

L: 8 1/2″  W:  2 3/4″
$75

——–

Aug spoon #6; walnut   – SOLD

L:  10 1/2″ W: 2 3/4″
$85


Reclaimed Wood Sign for a Groundhog’s Castle

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 08/23/2017 - 6:03am

We are very fortunate to have cats, chickens and a toddler in our lives. In our garden and in the woodland behind it, we occasionally see deer, squirrels, chipmunks, turkeys and many types of birds that either live in the woods or pass by. But it seems that the only animal that we did not intentionally acquire, but made a lovely home in our garden, is a chubby groundhog we […]

The post Reclaimed Wood Sign for a Groundhog’s Castle appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Ze Whale, She Been Birthed! (repost from LAP)

The Barn on White Run - Wed, 08/23/2017 - 4:36am

First Look: Deluxe ‘Roubo on Furniture’

ktb-roubo-IMG_8794

After an astonishing amount of work from people on two continents – not to mention hundreds of thousands of dollars of investment – a surprise showed up at the front door today.

It was a FedEx driver in a big truck. Sign this, he said. And then five boxes were sitting on the front step. Inside were the first copies of the deluxe version of “With All the Precision Possible: Roubo on Furniture.” It’s the biggest (physical and mental) thing we’ve ever published at Lost Art Press. It’s also the most expensive book we’ve ever made (and probably ever will make).

The book is now sitting in front of me, and I’m still a bit bewildered. It’s like our deluxe edition of “Roubo on Marquetry” (now sold out) but more than twice as thick.

I’ll have more to report on the book as we get it into the mail to all the customers who ordered pre-publication copies. And we’ll definitely have copies to show off at the next open day on Saturday, Sept. 9.

— Christopher Schwarz, christophermschwarz.com

P.S. FYI, this book is available for worldwide delivery. Choose “Outside USA” when checking out and we’ll contact you about the actual delivery charges to your address.

Dovetailing Classes: a New Approach

Tools For Working Wood - Wed, 08/23/2017 - 4:00am

Traditionally, professional joiners and cabinet makers weren't trained the same way we train adults in woodworking nowadays. First of all, joiners and cabinetmakers began their training at much younger ages. Training consisted of a combination of observation and practice and lasted several years. "Practice," of course, sounds a lot less boring than "repetition," but the two are the same thing. Certain tools that are pretty common today didn't exist. Dovetail gauges, honing guides, and magnetic saw guides, commonly used for joinery nowadays, are all inventions for the amatuer market.

There is nothing wrong with contemporary methods. There is no reason for anyone to suggest that there is only one true way, but I personally have always been interested in pre-industrial professional practice. I'm sort of like the amateur golfer who wants to be able to hold my own on a pro course. I know the idea is laughable - I will never be able to compete with the pros - but I want to at least be in the ballpark (or golf course).

When I studied years ago I did it the old fashioned way. very slowly, trying for perfection, and intellectualizing every move. Then after I read the Joiner and Cabinetmaker I started thinking about professional training. Trusting yourself, not trying for perfection the first day out - which can be paralying for many, but just trying to do decent apprentice work. Learn how to saw straight. Learn how to do very accurate and consistent layout. What shocked me was how possible it was to get good via planning and practice. I wanted to teach this method of instruction and see its effects on other students. So I developed a multi-part class, Mastering Dovetails, which is finishing up this week. The only tools we use in the class are a dovetail saw, marking gauge, a few chisels, layout knife, and a pencil, with the optional use of a coping saw. Waste on the tail board was done by sawing into the waste with a dovetail saw and making chiseling a little easier. I demonstrated using a coping saw for waste, and some students opted to use that for their tails.

For the first three hours of the class, students were instructed in how to saw straight and use a marking gauge. This was all about hand-eye-body coordination, and how to work with your entire posture so that sawing straight is a natural and expected phenomenon. Then we spent the next three hours cutting a simple through dovetail without marking anything, except waste and where to cut the pins from the tails. The square was used after the fact to check our work, not to lay it out. With the dovetail done, the students took six sets of wood home to work on a daily dovetail homework. For the final three hour session, the students add did a blind dovetail.

I was really impressed by how easily the students learned to saw square. Not perfectly square, but absolutely decent. Their initial dovetails mostly went together without trouble. Everyone came in with pretty well done homework. The blind dovetail (which is exactly like a through dovetail except you have to mark out the top of the tails too, and borrow the teachers skew chisels for the corners) went together for all the students far more easily than I thought. When I studied woodworking, it took ages to get to this point. My students had no trouble. So I am really pleased with the approach and I think it is worth pursuing.


What students liked best about the class is the attention to body movement. One commented that understanding that attention to accurate layout and learning how to saw straight and consistently raises the mist on all joinery, of any complexity and makes it accessible. Where I fell short was I should have written a cheat sheet for the steps in doing the homework. I will for next time (this fall). I also left out some tidbits of information that I ended up sharing a little belatedly. So a cheat sheet would be good.

Another learning experience was the discovery that students didn't all have sharp chisels. So in October, the next time I teach this class I will add in an initial segment on grinding and sharpening. We do offer these classes for free - we have a free grinding class coming up on September 9th - but in the limited-enrollment Dovetail class, the students will be able to grind and sharpen up their own chisels too.


Overall I am really proud on how well everyone did. What's really cool for a teacher is seeing students who never even owned tools before, who are doing the homework on a kitchen table to a couple of clamps, do great work.

planing to thickness, round III.....

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 08/23/2017 - 1:21am
I thought that the problems I was having with flattening my boards to thickness was because it is now the 21st century. The boards were twisted, full of pitch, and a had patches of swirly grain. After planing the twist out of one board 5 times and having it come back on me, I tossed it. I would have bet the ranch the old guys never had these headaches to deal with.

Well I was wrong on that. The old  masters dealt with the same problems I had to. They had to work around stock that wasn't straight, full of pitch, and twisted just like me. Getting wide boards wasn't that easy back then neither. Although I think they did have widths beyond 12" that were common then and the width of most stock was 7/8" not the 3/4" I have to work with.

I read a whole litany of complaints from a woodworker from the 1870's. The author was not a happy camper for sure. He mostly wrote about the quality of the boards and the sellers passing off bad stock as premium. The only thing he didn't mention was case hardened boards. I don't think that they kiln dried wood back then?

another mess to clean
The 5 1/2 is the worse one that I have to clean up.

this is the absolute best thing to use to clean the pitch off the planes
This works effortlessly cleaning the pitch off the planes but this stuff gives me a wicked headache. This is kind of old so the odor wasn't that bad and I survived the clean up without any pain in the brain bucket.

wiped clean
I dampened a rag with the turps and wiped the sole of the 5 1/2 clean. I didn't have to scrape it or hit it with a blue scrubbie.

checking my lid board for twist
There is a bit of twist on the non reference face. It is slight and I'll remove it tomorrow. Tonight I wanted to concentrate on the two new box boards. It is muggy and I want to get one reference face done on both.

where the twist shows up
With the sticks on the ends there is a bit of twist. From the 1/2 way point to the near end there is none. The twist only shows up from the 1/2 point to the far end. I think I have a bit of a hump or a high edge here.

first batter
This board is a huge difference from the first round boards. This is straight grained and has no pitch on either side. It does have a bit of twist on both sides. I picked the one with the smallest amount and planed that until the board didn't rock anymore. I placed that side down and commenced working the opposite one to be the reference face.

flat enough now that I can plane the other face
broke out the #6
This is the way I flatten stock. I go straight across the board and then I criss cross the board from both ends. This usually gets me close to flat. I make one more run going straight across the board and then I plane end to end. This is it for the #6 and I switch to the #5 to plane the humps out left by the #6.

I'm a frog hair past 5/8"
I checked the board for twist after the using the #5 and I had some that I planed out. I may have to settle for 9/16" or less for my final thickness.

5 1/2 with the Ray Iles iron
So far I haven't run across anything with this iron to not like. I can't tell any difference between it or the Stanley iron that came with the plane. The only thing left is to see how long it stays sharp and usable.

I'm done
I know that I am very close here now. I have gotten full width shavings from end to end and across the full width of the board.

far corner is bit high still
I seem to chase my tail on this a bit more than I want to. I check for twist and have none so I check for flat across the width with the plane. Any daylight areas I see under the sole, I plane. Then I check for twist again and I have some again. I go with twist free and live with daylight under the sole.

this is getting better
One thing I found that is helping to reduce the amount of daylight I see is planing straight across the board. I used to be a bit timid doing this but now I do it until I get a full width shaving across the full width and end to end. I tended to be more concerned with maintaining thickness than getting dead flat.

both boards done
The thickness on the two boards is pretty close but I have one more check to do with these before I sticker them. The reference face on both is flat and twist free.


it passed the test
Both reference faces are laying flat on each other with no rocking on any of the corners. It is gap free 360° too. I checked the thickness again and it is looking like I'll have box with 1/2" thick sides.

stickered the boards and shut the lights out early
I wasn't sweating too much but the shop is clammy feeling and I just wanted to veg out in the A/C. Barring these boards from doing anything stupid overnight, I'll plane them to thickness tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Robert R Livingston? (hint he was the Chancellor of New York)
answer - he administrated the oath of office at George Washington's first inauguration

Charming Vid About Handworks 2017

The Barn on White Run - Tue, 08/22/2017 - 8:20pm

Jameel and Fr. John and crew posted a superb video summarizing 2017 Handworks, where I gathered with several thousand of my closest friends to celebrate hand tool woodworking.  If you were there, this is a sweet taste of remembrance.  If you were not there, it is a bitter taste of regret.

Harold White Lumber Company

MVFlaim Furnituremaker - Tue, 08/22/2017 - 7:22pm

Earlier this year my territory changed for my job and I acquired the Lowe’s in Morehead, KY as one of my accounts. Whenever I would drive down to that Lowe’s, I would always drive by the Harold White Lumber Co. I was always impressed by the amount of logs the mill had on its lot, but I saw no showroom or retail office, so I always kept driving. That was until a few weeks ago, when I decided to pull in and see what the place was all about. I figured the worse thing that could happen is they would tell me they only sell to wholesale accounts and kick me out.

20170822_130137

I stopped at the mill work office and asked if they sold to retail customers. They said they did, but I would have to drive over to the lumber office so, I got back into my car and headed down the driveway to another office. There I met the office manager who asked what type of wood I was looking for. I said “nothing at the moment, just wondered if you sell to retail customers”. She gave me their price list and asked the plant manager to show me around the mill. He took me where they keep the short stacks of lumber with loads of cherry, oak, wormy maple and poplar. He told me that the 4/4 poplar was only $.80 board foot. I usually pay $2.20 for 4/4 poplar at my current lumber yard in Cincinnati. I would have bought some that day, but I didn’t bring any cash with me plus, I was just looking for info at the time and had no intention of buying anything anyway.

20170822_130154

The mill is huge with thousands of logs on their land. I looked at their price list and they carry all the major domestic species, but they also have basswood, sycamore, sassafras, hemlock, and coffee tree. I was told by the office manager that they don’t always have the rare species in stock, but if you call ahead, they may be able to mill some up. You can even buy a whole log if you want to mill the wood yourself.

20170822_130149

So today, I went back and I told the same office manager I was interested in the four-foot shorts. She had an employee follow me back to the area they keep them so they could load it in my car. The last time I was here, this whole area was stacked with bundles of lumber. The guy told me that the shorts don’t last long. They even have a big dumpster where people can dumpster dive for one to two foot long boards.

20170822_124739

I came home with 20 board feet of 4/4 FAS White Oak for $30.00 for a whiskey barrel coffee table my cousin wants me to make for her. The wood should be enough to make the base and top of the table as I already bought a halved whiskey barrel last weekend. The next time I go back, I’m going to stock up on poplar, maple, cherry, and walnut. It’s nice to have place where I can buy hardwood lumber dirt cheap.

20170822_130101


The Devil is in the Dovetails.

The Furniture Record - Tue, 08/22/2017 - 2:18pm

Due to the excitement from The Eclipse Event of 2017, I wasn’t sure I would be able to do a blog today. Locally, the eclipse was only partial enabling me to recover more quickly than expected.

I’m OK. now.

Wandering through my favorite auction gallery, I came across this piece:

Antique Continental Inlaid Dressing Table

Description: 18th century, mixed woods, reverse bookmatched veneered top with geometric banded inlaid edge, two cock beaded drawers, with barber pole banded inlay, raised on later cabriole legs with block feet.

Size: 29 x 29 x 17.5 in.

Condition: Later legs; insect damage; shrinkage crack to top with areas of fill; retains likely original pulls.

IMG_0190

This lot has sold for $120.

IMG_0251

Here is the reverse bookmatched veneered top.

IMG_0192

And the geometric banded inlaid edge.

IMG_0194

A cockbeaded drawer with end-grain veneer and barber pole banded inlay.

I opened one of the drawers with end-grain veneer and barber pole banded inlay and was surprised to not see dovetails. My first thought was the applied cockbeading might be covering the dovetails, but that was not the case. It is unusual for a table of this quality not to have dovetailed drawers. Rare but not unheard of.

IMG_0202

Look Ma, no dovetails!! But there are nails.

IMG_0207

At either end!

Looking for more construction details, I pulled out the other drawer:

IMG_0196

There be dovetails here!

 

IMG_0198

Dovetails at both ends of the drawer.

I checked the opposite side of the first drawer and found dovetails:

IMG_0200

Dovetails on this side of the first drawer.

I went back and looked at the first side of the first drawer and found that:

IMG_0202

There probably were pins. You can see the pin residue between the cockbead and the drawer side.

I’m figuring the thin pins failed and the drawer side was replaced with one nailed on.

It happens.

There was another piece there that I ignored at first:

Georgian Hepplewhite One Drawer Server

Description: Early 19th century, mahogany, oak secondary, bow front, single drawer with ebony line inlay to edge, banded line inlay to skirt and square tapered legs raised on brass casters.

Size: 29 x 36 x 19 in.

Condition: Later top; some inlay loss and other restoration.

IMG_0254

This lot has sold for $130.

I had ignored it because the top looked too new and was glued up from several narrow boards. The top had no profile or decoration applied, just a plain edge, similar to today’s Bassett or Ethan Allen furniture.

Just to validate my dismissal of this server as new, I looked at a drawer and saw this:

IMG_0255

Not at all what I expected.

That’s when I checked the catalog and saw that (part of) it was 200 years old.

Not something I wanted. It did find a home for $130.

IMG_0256

I liked the pull, even if not original.


Modern Gateleg Table: A Contemporary-Looking Design That’s Really From the 18th Century

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 08/22/2017 - 11:41am

A contemporary-looking design that’s really from the 18th century. by Christopher Schwarz Pages 28 – 34 October 2017 Buy the issue here. If you’ve ever been dragged to Ikea by your spouse (few woodworkers go willingly – except to eat meatballs), you’ve probably seen a table similar to this gateleg one. It’s been a staple of the contemporary furniture company’s line-up for many years. One Saturday five years ago, my […]

The post Modern Gateleg Table: A Contemporary-Looking Design That’s Really From the 18th Century appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Not My Typical Woodworking Project

The Barn on White Run - Tue, 08/22/2017 - 5:38am

Offspring nuptials often cause woodworkers to deviate from their normal regimen of projects.  I am no different.  Over the past fortnight I’ve been making hundreds of wood wafers as coasters for wedding mementos.

Of course I outsmarted myself by carefully sealing both sides of the coasters to reduce splitting, but then found out the ink would not stick to the varnished surface.  So I had to sand one face of each of the ~250 chotchkis on my disc sander to prep them for stamping.

Tricone resonator

Finely Strung - Tue, 08/22/2017 - 5:20am

This guitar, a Recording King Tricone Resonator, came into the workshop with a problem.  It’s owner, guitar virtuoso Roland Chadwick, wanted to use an open C# tuning  (C#,G#, C#, F, G#, C#) but couldn’t get it to play in tune. A web search rapidly revealed that these guitars are notorious for giving trouble with open tunings. There are probably several reasons including the high action at the nut and coupling of certain notes with strong body resonances, but another cause seems to be too little compensation at the bridge.  With an open C# tuning, this results in the two lower strings sounding more than 20 cents sharp at the 12th fret.

 

 

 

At one time, a replacement bridge was made which allowed the compensation of each string to be individually adjusted. (You can see it here.)  It looks an excellent design but unfortunately, it’s no longer obtainable. What to do instead?

I decided to follow a similar route but to get there by modifying the existing bridge rather than  making a new one.  I simply glued small pieces of ebony onto it and reshaped the string slots  to provide a few millimetres of compensation for the 2nd, 5th and 6th strings. I say simply but, although the idea is straightforward, it’s a bit tricky in practice because the shape of the bridge and existing saddle makes it hard to clamp the small lumps of ebony in place while the glue cures. I solved the problem by making a cast of the opposite side of the bridge from car body filler – a technique that I’ve described in detail in the Tools and Jigs section of this website.

Below are a few photographs of the modified bridge and the guitar with its top off while final adjustments were being made.

 

 

 

 

 

I didn’t succeed in getting it to play perfectly in tune over the whole length of the fingerboard, but the intonation is a lot better and I think that Roland will now be able to play it without making his audience’s ears bleed.

planing to thickness, round II......

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 08/22/2017 - 1:15am
Sunday I thought I had a nice, wide flat board to make my plow plane box out of. The board had a slight cup to it that I couldn't ignore.  It turned out that it was twisted and had a lot of pitch in it too. Before I quit for the day, I had planed the twist out of one side on both and made them flat and straight. I stickered them overnight and continued planing them to thickness tonight.

gauged my line on the thinnest part
I got lucky here as I wanted 5/8 for my thickness and that is want I got. This corner is the thinnest one and the diagonal one is close to the gauge line too, but not as close as this one. That makes the two of these the high corners.

marked it
I want to avoid planing this area until the rest of the gauge line is close to this corner. A couple of X's should help with that.


I have a toothing iron
This worked somewhat on the pine. In the middle of board I have a ton of swirly grain and the iron planed this without tearing out. However, it was very slow going because it wasn't planing out as much as a flat iron was. It could be too that my technique is suspect as this is only my 3rd time using a toothing iron. I went back to the 5 1/2 and attacking the swirl from all angles.


the diagonal corner
This one is as close to the gauge lines as I want to get it. The rest of the field still has a bit more to plane out. Marking the these areas with an X helped out a lot because I had visual on where to avoid planing.

first board almost done - checking my gauge lines
my problem areas
It's been a while since I planed two boards and I was surprised by how much I forgot.  I thought it would be like riding a bike - get on and start pedaling. Not here sports fans. I did remember that I tend to plane down on the ends away from me. The lead in I usually do do good on.

smoothed the first board
In the pic above at the end where my finger is, instead of having planed down, I left a slight hump on the edge. The 4 1/2 was used to smooth the face out and get any areas where I was still proud of the gauge lines.

awfully close to the gauge lines
The opposite side I can just make out the gauge line so I concentrated on getting this edge to the line.

  board #2 and problem #2
I tend to plane a hump in the middle of the board when thicknessing. So I planed a slight hollow in the middle before I did any other planing.


I'm done
Full width shavings from end to end and across the entire width of the board.

one board is twisted still
I didn't check the boards for twist again before I started to thickness them. I looked at them and they looked ok so I went to work on them.

how I found the twist
I had the boards side by side on the bench to check how close the thickness came out. One board was a bit higher and I could tell that it wasn't because it was thicker. It felt like it was curled so I laid one board on the other and the corners rocked. One board laid flat on the bench stayed that way. The other board had developed a twist again and it was the one with the most pitch and the centered swirly grain.

I planed out the twist and checked the boards for flat again. I still had some twist in one board. It wasn't good but it wasn't that bad neither. After planing it again, I had gotten rid of a significant amount of the twist but a small bit remained. I hit the board aggressively this time and got all of the twist out.

almost 9/16" at the thinnest spot
1/2"is the minimum I want to go on the thickness and I may be able to meet that. The plan was to let this sticker overnight and hopefully plane it to 9/16" tomorrow.

been less than 5 minutes later
I watched the board slowly twist it self. I took me 3 tries to remove it and this final check says it is toast. I tossed this board in the shitcan. I didn't even want to save it for the fireplace.

the lid stock
This board was still flat because I checked it before I ran the gauge line. I did my sloped away planing on this end but two out of three isn't bad.  It is surprising how easily this happens and how long it takes for me to realize I did it.

got lucky again
This is the board for the lid and it is longer and wider than what I need. I can easily work around this corner and still have good sound stock to get my lid from.

new stock for the plow plane box
I was going to saw out a new piece of stock to just replace the one bad board. But that would mean I would lose my continuous grain flow around the box.  Not to mention the obvious color differences in the two boards.  After dinner I went back to the shop and sawed out the other board. Tomorrow I'll start from ground zero again with getting the stock to thickness.

I have been thinking about what to use for the bottom of this box. The one problem I have is I don't have a plane iron that will make a groove that fits 1/4" plywood. I don't want to use solid wood for the bottom so that brings me back to plywood.

I remembered a Woodsmith episode where they made a toolbox carcass out of plywood. They routed 1/4" grooves for the shelves and dividers. The plywood shelves and dividers were made from 1/2" plywood that was rabbeted to fit the 1/4" groove. A quick and simple solution to getting a good fit between the groove and the shelves.

That is what I am going to do with my box. I ordered a piece of 3/8" thick baltic birch plywood that I can rabbet and fit in a 1/4" groove I'll put in the box. Since I got to wait for the plywood to come in, I have the time to start at zero again with the thicknessing of the new stock.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Joseph Levitch?
answer - the stage name for comedian Jerry Lewis who passed away yesterday at age 91

Solar Eclipses at Highland Woodworking

Highland Woodworking - Mon, 08/21/2017 - 1:34pm

Prior to today’s 97% eclipse here in Atlanta, the last annular eclipse that was seen in the area was back on May 30th, 1984. Back when Wood News was a print publication, we included pictures and a write-up from the events of that day.

1984 Wood News Article on the Eclipse

This year’s event was another exciting one here at the store, with employees talking about it throughout the morning. Once the eclipse started around 1:05pm EST, Highland employees took turns going outside to look through the few pairs of eclipse glasses that some of our fellow employees were nice enough to bring and share with the rest of us. One of us even brought a welding mask and another made a pinhole camera out of paper.

Viewing through glasses and welding masks

Pin Hole Camera

While it didn’t get completely dark down here at Highland Woodworking, you could definitely tell a difference in the light, not to mention the quietness that occurred.

One of the highlights of the event was the beautiful crescent shadows made by the trees located throughout the store parking lot.

Crescent Shadows

The post Solar Eclipses at Highland Woodworking appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

3 Kinds of Furniture Drawer Slides: Pros and Cons

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 08/21/2017 - 7:51am

1. Wooden slides Traditionally, drawers have slid on wooden runners: strips of wood tenoned into horizontal rails at the face of a cabinet. In casework where a drawer will not be guided by the cabinet’s sides — for example, when the cabinet has a face frame that protrudes into the drawer opening — the runners are fitted with guides to keep the drawers from sliding left or right and binding […]

The post 3 Kinds of Furniture Drawer Slides: Pros and Cons appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Last Chance To Sign-up For Workbench Workshop

The Barn on White Run - Mon, 08/21/2017 - 5:46am

I’ll be ordering the lumber this week for the Sept. 4-8 “Build A Traditional Workbench” workshop at The Barn, so this is the last chance to register if you want to participate.  I will close the books on this at 5PM Wednesday.

If you would like to join us and go home on Friday with a finished bench, contact me here.

my shop day in pics.......

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 08/21/2017 - 1:09am
Today's post is all pics with almost no verbiage except for captions. The plan to get the plow plane box made hit a snag with the stock but there is no deadline there. I got a few other things done and the operative phrase for the next few days is, ".....just how muggy is it?". Been humid the last few days and it is forecasted to be this way well into the upcoming week. Still not as humid as it was last month.

2nd coat of shellac on the door - quiet work time
2nd coat on the drawers and shelves - this is it, no more painting
one more coat to go on the box and it will be done
diagonal brace stock
No butt joints or dovetails. Instead I'm using a rabbet joint.

stock is cupped slightly
sawed in half and almost all the cup is gone - I'm using it as is
chisel to flush the tails and pins and the plane to clean it all up
last time using the cardboard box - no twist in the wooden box
flushing the corners up
if the corners weren't flush I couldn't turn on them with the #7
marked a centerline on the diagonal brace
to line up the corners on it
clamped the brace and knifed the box corner on the brace
sawed off the excess
gauged a line for the rabbet
knife wall made and I sawed the shoulders
sawed the cheeks on the waste side of the line
cheeks and shoulders sawed out
planed to the lines with the tenon plane
first joint looks good
gap on the other one - I had to take one more swipe on the shoulder to square it up
I'll plane the proud after the glue has set up
layout for the second diagonal brace
resisted the urge to take one more swipe
good fit on this end
good fit on this end - this brace was self supporting - glued the braces and set it aside
sizing the box for the plow plane
I wanted to use 1/2" poplar I had but it isn't wide enough. I don't want to glue up stock to make this box.

I have a piece of 1x10 pine that will do the job
this is the tallest object going in the box
I need a 1/2" at the bottom and a 1 3/4" at the top.

adding screws to the diagonal braces for added strength
I am using my new small countersink.

clogged up but it still worked - this might not be made for hand drill use
nice clean and smooth countersink
flushed the proud on the braces
added a spacer between the diagonals braces to keep them from dishing in
done
side by side with the new and the old
#4 rehab - I put the yoke on backwards
#4 for my grandson's tool chest
I like the painted interior of the base
I am going to strip and paint all of my planes now. I just have to find the time to do that.

plane dates from the 1890's and still works flawlessly
my grandson's herd - #3, #4, and a 5 1/4 (so far)
#3 on the end
I got the #3 (at the bottom) from Ken Hatch and I plan on rehabbing it and giving it away. I have 3 of these planes and I don't need a fourth.

plane I got from Ken Hatch - still feeling it out

still having problems planing square with it and correcting it
Every plane I have has it's own personality and quirks I had to get familiar with. This plane is no different and once I get to know it I'm sure we will be the best of friends.

first time for me - box with the grain continuously flowing around it
sawed in two
This stock has a little cup to it that I have to plane out first. Decided to do it with two pieces rather than one large long one (40" long x 10" wide).


using my check it for twist box for the first time and this board is twisted

marked the side sequence on the edge

pine pitch to clean up
This isn't as bad as the board I did a couple of days ago. I'll clean these up and I will sharpen the irons too.

one side flat - tomorrow I'll plane them to thickness
swapping irons and trying out my Ray Iles 5 1/2 replacement iron
trying out my replacement iron from Tools from Japan for the 4 1/2
didn't like the screws
The screws are in the end grain of the spacer and that won't hold and last too long. I replaced the screws with walnut Miller Dowels.

next tool to be rehabbed
I could use this as it is now but after playing with it for 5 minutes or so, I have a bit of learning curve to climb on this. I will rehab it first and make it pretty and start playing with it again.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Daniel Decatur Emmett?
 answer - he wrote the song Dixie (Civil War)









My Upcoming Workshops at MASW

The Barn on White Run - Sun, 08/20/2017 - 6:12pm

In October I will be teaching a pair of three-day workshops at the Marc Adams School of Woodworking, a Monday-Tuesday-Wednesday session introducing 18th Century Parquetry, followed by the Thursday-Friday-Saturday workshop on Traditional Finishing.  This is something of an experiment for Marc schedule-wise, and I very much appreciate his accommodating me in this.

I know for certain that there are openings for the Parquetry session but am less certain about the finishing one.  I hope you can join me there and look forward to spending time with you there and, as a dear professor friend of mine says, “pushing back the frontiers of ignorance.”

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