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General Woodworking

2×4 Lumber Lawsuit Dismissed

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 10/17/2017 - 2:38pm

In my November 2017 editor’s note, I wrote about two $5,000,000 lawsuits filed against Menard’s and Home Depot for “false and misleading advertising” for selling 2×4 lumber that isn’t actually 2″ x 4″. You can read that here, if you like. Last night, Nicholas Vanaria (a friend from Instagram) let me know that the suit against Menard’s was dismissed. U.S. District Judge Edmond Change threw out the case on October 6. […]

The post 2×4 Lumber Lawsuit Dismissed appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Washington desk day 1.

The Slightly Confused Woodworker - Tue, 10/17/2017 - 12:16pm

I woke up on Sunday morning feeling a little under the weather. My back was a little stiff, I had a headache, and I didn’t sleep very well on top of it. I almost put my Washington’s Desk project on hold, but I knew that if I didn’t get started I probably never would. So I cleared out the garage and got to work.

The plan was to mill up enough material for the desk top, the breadboard ends, the legs, as well as cleats for the desktop underside and the cross stretcher. So I chose 3 boards, two 6 footers and one 4 footer (all of the boards were 12 inches wide by 1 inch thick). To mill down those boards I used my Ryobi surface planer. For the record, this isn’t what I consider a great or even good tool. I purchased it almost 14 years ago while doing a kitchen remodel. It does the job, but it is loud and messy. Nonetheless, I had to work with the tools I have, so I checked the blades, and they were reasonably sharp, so I started milling.

What made this such an arduous process was the collection of the shavings. Because I rarely use power tools, I don’t have a dust collector or even a large shop vac. The shop vac I do have is perfectly fine for cleaning out a car or keeping a workbench clear, but it is not made for large scale work. But once again I had to use what was available, and it was not fun. Initially, I was hoping to finish up with two boards just over 7/8” thick for the top and one board just over ¾” thick for the legs. But, I underestimated the amount of material I needed to remove. The boards I was working with were very rough sawn, as in just a shade beyond still having bark. So I had to remove nearly ¼” of material just to get down to usable boards that were flat. And it also meant a lot of starting and stopping to empty out the shop vac. I was actually sore from the constant bending over to pick up the shavings, which I did at the very least fifty times. In the end, I filled up an entire lawn bag with shavings.

IMG_2787 (002)

The desktop boards after the initial milling.


After the boards were milled I used the table saw to trim the two boards for the desk top to rough width and length (as well as getting rid of planer snipe). I then aligned the boards for a nice grain pattern (at least to my eye), and trimmed the boards to very near final size. To join the boards I decided to match-plane them.

IMG_2788 (002)

The set up for match planing

Match planing works well, especially if your plane is set properly. I used a strange sequence: jointer plane first, a couple of passes with a jack plane set to take gossamer thin shavings, jointer again, and then one final pass with the jack. I’m not sure how other woodworkers match-plane, but when I am able to take a full width, full length shaving from both boards I call it joined. And in a surprisingly short time the boards were ready to be glued. I am very happy with the joint, as it was air tight, and the top is thankfully nice and flat. It will take a good amount of plane work and sanding, and probably some scraping as well (there are a few funky grain spots) to get the top ready for finish, but I should have a top ¾ thick when all is said and done, which is a bit less than I wanted, but hardly the end of the world.

IMG_2789 (002)

A surprisingly small amount of shavings

At that point, I decided to call it a day. There was a lot, and I mean a lot, of clean up to do. In fact, I spent nearly as much time setting up and cleaning up as I did woodworking. This coming weekend I am hoping to get the legs sawn to finish length and width, the breadboard ends ready, and with a little luck I may possibly have the entire base and desk top ready for assembly. I was a little worried over laying out the legs, but I figured out a simple solution that I will detail in my next post.

IMG_2791 (002)

The panel glued-up.






Categories: General Woodworking

Product Video: European Workbench

Highland Woodworking - Tue, 10/17/2017 - 8:00am

If you’ve been looking for an affordable workbench to take your shop to the next level, look no further than the European Workbench, available at Highland Woodworking.

In the video below, Morton shows off the diverse capabilities of the European Workbench.

The post Product Video: European Workbench appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

another day of rest.......

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 10/17/2017 - 1:25am
My thumbs hurt all day long, especially my master right one. I'll admit I haven't been a good little boy with taking my blue pills so I'm paying the price. As I am typing this I am getting an occasional twinge of pain. Early today I was seriously thinking of going home but stayed. My fingers would have hurt the same at home as they did at work. So I'll be doing less intensive finger things in the shop and I will start taking my twice daily blue pills.

this is past due
Evaporarust usually has a greenish tint to it and this is jet black. This isn't any good so I'll dump it and I'll have to buy another jug of it. The only place I've found it in my area is at an auto parts store.

every shop needs a few different sizes of these
there's the yoke pin
I haven't lost any parts down the drain since I started using this. And it's nylon so no rust problems.

all blown dry
A blow dryer in the shop is another good thing to have.

a moment of weakness
I've  been reading about and getting comments on making a shallow rabbet for the tail board to close up gaps on dovetails. Ken Hatch recently wrote about Alan Peter's 140 trick using this block plane. I had passed on one of these a few months ago and I should have bought it. This was $225 new from LN and the one I passed on was $100.

Gaps on the inside of dovetails bug me for whatever reason. I think what is causing it is I'm moving my knife line ever so slightly as I chop. I have come close a few times with almost no gaps but I have yet to do any 100% gap free. I got this for the fixing the gaps more than for registration. I also got it because Deneb said it will make bread board ends.

it's a heavy one too (one kilo)
run a gauge line
I figured it out
I like these mini tite mark gauges a lot but I was having problems with the wheel cutters. They were disintegrating on me. First a few chips and then big chunks of it went MIA. I didn't know what was wrong or what was causing it. The problem was me and my ham fisted marking pressure. The cutters are fine and do what they are designed to do - make a clean precise knife line - without a lot of downward pressure exerted on them. I had stopped using them and switched to old wooden marking gauges.

The problem was me digging into the wood too hard with gauge. My attempt to make the line as deep as I could was too much for the gauge. I just happened to look at the cutter wheel as I was trying to make a deeper line and I saw the cutter wheel peel off like a shaving coming up through the mouth of a plane.So I think if I let up on the depth of the line, my cutter wheels should last. I forgot to add them to the LN order when I bought the 140 block plane.

I am not doing something right here
I had watched LN's You Tube video on this plane and Deneb said that it is a finicky plane to set up. I had it set too deep on my initial try. I would have bet a lung I was good on that but I wasn't. Once I got it set I did make fluffy and wispy shavings.

This is what happens with every new plane I use. I'll continue to practice and I'll get it.

I think I made a mistake in not removing the right side plate on the plane. That would allow the iron to get up tight into the bottom of the rabbet. The shoulder on this looks like crap and it should be crisp and clean.

better on the second run
The shoulder still looks like crap so I'm sure that the side plate should be removed . Removing the side plate will also give me access to the knicker. I'll try that out tomorrow.

new saw for Miles's toolbox
a carcass saw?
The top saw is my sash saw and the bottom one is my LN cross cut carcass saw. I think this Disston #4 saw will do ok as a carcass saw. I'll look it up and see what it's original use was.

ripped ok but the saw is dull
hard to crosscut
I really struggled making this crosscut in 3/4" pine. It bound and stuck seemingly on every other stroke. I finally made it through but it was a workout.

the teeth look like crap (Disston #4)
It is hard to tell if this is a rip or a crosscut. I felt very little set as I run my fingers down the tooth line. I put this one aside and filed a small rip saw that I'm giving to Miles.

small rip saw - jointing the the tops of the teeth
I am going to sharpen this small rip saw that I am going to put into Miles's toolbox. I jointed the tops of the teeth and this is about the middle of the saw. The tooth line wasn't even after 4-5 strokes down the saw with the jointer.

the toe
the heel
The heel looked the best tooth wise which I expected.

11 TPI
the toe after I sharpened them
time to test my work
This saw wouldn't saw 1/2" stock before I sharpened it and that is what this is.

not too bad
It is fairly straight and I had no problems sawing it. It was definitely a huge improvement over the sawing I tried before I sharpened it. The saw also has no set that I can feel. I'll be doing that for the first time tomorrow.

not bad for my second attempt at sharpening
missed a few
Only five teeth still have file jointing marks that I didn't file away when I sharpened. There was one area that had 4-5 misshaped and missing teeth that I think I made better and worse. Instead of 4-5 goofy teeth I now have 2.

sharpie marks the rework spots
From the heel going to the toe about 4 inches is the best looking real estate. I marked all the problem areas that need further help. Overall, I think I improved the tooth line compared to the original line of garbage I inherited. It will be a while before I master this and it will just take some time and a lot of practice.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a nonce?
answer - something that is made or used only once

What’s new

NCW Woodworking Guild - Mon, 10/16/2017 - 7:39pm

Check out the new “Library” and “For Sale or Trade” tabs in the menu. Here’s why:

Over the summer, new guild member Barb Siddiqui donated a treasure trove of mostly hardback woodworking books to us. In other words, we have a library! Included in the 500+ titles are some of the best ever published: all of The Best of Fine Woodworking books, woodturning books, carving books, books on making period furniture, you name it.

The library is housed at Lombard’s Hardwoods, and all volumes are available for check-out by guild members. In the notebook provided, print your name and contact info, along with the names of the titles you are borrowing, then be sure to bring them back. If someone might want a page or two copied out a particular book, we recommend taking a picture of the pages with your phone or tablet.

The “For Sale or Trade” idea has been bandied around for awhile now, and since yours truly (Autumn) will have to make all of the postings and updates, I was skeptical about starting it, but we’ll give it a go and see where it goes. I’ll do my best to keep it updated.

If you have a woodworking related item to sell or trade, send me the info, with photos, to autumn.doucet@gmail.com. Be sure to provide your name (some email addresses are obscure) and your contact information. Please send me an email advising me when to take down the posting, otherwise, you’ll keep getting inquiries.

 Darrell Peart is coming to town! Date and other info are on the sidebar.

darrell peart



Finishing Workshop @ CW – Making Sandpaper

The Barn on White Run - Mon, 10/16/2017 - 4:50pm

In preparing for the sessions at The Anthony Hay Shop of CW I decided at the last minute to toss in the materials needed to make sandpaper, not knowing whitener or not there would be any interest.  It turned out that a lot of the participants were indeed interested, and several told me a very common question from the visiting public was some variation of, “Did they have sandpaper in the old days?”

So I’m glad I had what was needed.

We started with moderate weight rag paper, albeit machine made, not hand cast (maybe next time).

Wetting the paper both sides relaxed it so it would pucker less when the hot glue was applied to one side.

We were using 135 gws glue since it had plenty of adhesion properties plus was much more flexible than higher grades, making it more usable since it would not fracture when bent.

Once the glue has been on the paper long enough such that it is tacky but not wet, the surface is sprinkled with fine frit, the ground glass that was often used as the abrasive for some ancient sandpapers (hence the common terminology of “glass paper”).  You want the glue tacky enough to adhere the frit, but not wet enough to soak into it and turn it into a big chunk on the surface.

The glued sheet with frit is shaken or brushed so that the frit covers the whole surface, and the piece is set aside.  Once the glue has hardened adequately the excess frit is brushed or shaken off and the sheet is allowed to dry fully.

And voila’, you have a genuine new piece of antique sandpaper about 180 grit.






dynaGlide Plus available through Vogt Toolworks

Tico Vogt - Mon, 10/16/2017 - 12:54pm

Three years ago I learned about dynaGlide Plus from Richard Welder at Micro Fence. It is a Silicone and Teflon free dry boundary lubricant. I have used it principally to clean the swarf off the bearing surfaces of my shooting boards and to lubricate them. It functions well on metal planes, edge tools, bits, bearings, and abrasive surfaces.


Vogt Toolworks is now a distributor. Click here to view the Product Page.




Nick Offerman Woodworking Non-profit Matching Grant

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 10/16/2017 - 9:05am

Woodworker, author, actor, humorist and all-around nice guy (with a most excellent giggle) Nick Offerman and Offerman Woodshop are teaming with Would Works through October 30 for a $20,000 fundraising campaign. Would Works is a Los Angeles non-profit that teaches people who are homeless or who live in the city’s Skid Row neighborhood create and sell handcrafted wood items as they work toward a specific financial goal – simple goals many […]

The post Nick Offerman Woodworking Non-profit Matching Grant appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Live-Edge Keyboard Tray

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 10/16/2017 - 3:13am

I just finished a desk commissioned by some clients who wanted the piece to be made from a walnut log they’d had lying around a few years – in other words, longer than ideal. They had it sawn and kiln-dried this summer and brought the boards out to my shop in September. My clients wanted to keep the live edges on the desktop, which posed a challenge: Their log had […]

The post Live-Edge Keyboard Tray appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

it's football season.......

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 10/16/2017 - 12:53am
I used to be a rabid football fan. I wouldn't miss a game even if I was having a heart attack. Now, I'm ambivalent about it. I follow the Patriots and today is the first game I am watching on TV.  Well I kind of watched it. I had been going back forth from the living room to the workshop inbetween plays. But by half time I was committed to sitting and watching.

Football doesn't hold sway over me like it used to which I am ok with. If push came to shove, I  would rather be in the shop anyways. I would have been in the shop today but my thumbs ached something fierce today. So I thought it best to give them a rest. If the game doesn't interest me I can search the WWW for an iron and a chipbreaker.

quiet time work
Just finished the sanding with 600 grit. I could have gone further with 800 and 1200 but 600 works for me. It imparts a decent shine and I can't see any scratches so I don't see the need to go further.

LED reflection off 600 grit
the sole
I know that the smoothness of the sole rather than shine, is a big help. A 600 grit smoothness helps the plane to glide rather than hesitate.

autosol shine
This stuff makes the planes shine but it also protects them too. And it lasts for a few months also. I'll be checking on this one to see how long it lasts because it'll be resident in a toolbox for quite a while.

autosol on the sole
I just do the cheeks and the sole.  I haven't tried the autosol on the lever cap yet but I may on the #6 rehab.

Miles's block planes
I knew the  60 1/2 is a bit smaller than the #9 and side by side it pops out. The iron in the #9 measures 1 9/16" wide the the 60 1/2 is 1 3/8" wide. 

about the same length
The #9 has a wider iron and a lot more mass. In spite of the extra mass the #9 weighs 1lb 60oz (.634 kilos) to the 60 1/2 weight of 1lb 3oz (.543 kilos) - a 3oz difference. I was expecting the weight of the #9 to be higher than this.

motors revving and ready to go
L and R shavings
I liked seeing this. Both shavings are the same width and thickness so I don't think the defect I have on the right of the iron matters. The plane didn't skip or stall making the shaving neither.

I'm stowing them in the big till for now - they won't fit in the top ones
the #6 will fit
The saws aren't going to stay in the toolbox. I will be making a separate till for them once I get them all. I have a crosscut and two rip saws so far. The smallest rip saw I have to sharpen but the other two are sharp. I bought a backsaw on thursday and I should have it monday or tuesday at the latest.  I thought of getting the 3 saw LV set (carcass, dovetail, and tenon) but I can't get past the composite construction, even if they are a damn good price. Instead I'll buy wooden handled saws one at a time. I have only to get two more and I have plenty of time to do it.

my 7/8 T&G planes

it's a match
my shrinking collection of T&G planes

I'm going through all my wooden planes and I'm passing on all my extras. I thought I had a few more beading planes but it looks like I already passed them on. Out of the 5 sets of T&G planes only two are usable and the other 3 need work on the irons.

these are my problem planes
One of the worse planes is the second from the bottom on the left. It is a dutch plane I bought for $15 and I can not get it to plane it's profile.

it is a complex molder
The sole of the plane is good, the throat isn't beat up and I don't think the plane got a lot of use. The iron matches the sole good but I haven't been successful making the profile. The best I've been able to do is to make a partial one.  None of these planes will get passed on.

this is a beading iron
from a plane that is an astragal
I've gotten a few molding planes with irons that don't even remotely match the sole profile. This one is on the list for making an iron to match it. Lie Nielsen sells blanks and I should be able to match one up for this.

3 molders I wanted
I think in order to get these 3 planes, I had to bid on a 3 lots of about 20 total planes. Most of them were garbage and only good enough to feed the furnace. Two of these are definite users and one is iffy. The sole is chewed up right behind the mouth but it did plane a profile as is. So maybe I will be able to sharpen the iron and be ok.

I'll come back to this one
The iron is rusty looking and thumping the ass wouldn't loosen the wedge.

these four just need to be sharpened
these are being passed on
All the planes I am passing on are users. I am not giving away crap. These 3 need the irons cleaned up and sharpened but all three planed their respective profiles. All the planes I am passing on planed their profiles. These here on the only ones I didn't sharpen and hone the irons. I boxed up the planes going to a new home and I'll ship them out this week.

the plane from 3 pics above
This is a thumbnail plane for 1/2" stock. I don't see very many planes for thin stock being offered up. This one came with a lot of 6 planes. This made the profile and half way decent shavings considering the iron is rusty looking.

the front of the iron
the back of the iron
I am continually amazed by these old molding planes planing a profile with irons like this in them. I have yet to buy one with a flattened back too. This iron is dull feeling and crappy looking yet it still planed a decent looking profile. I will clean this up and add it to the herd.

brass adjuster knob off the corrugated #6
This is the before grungy, dirty looking pic.

the backside looks even worse
I can reuse the barrel nuts
The slots are usually chewed up on the older planes but these are still clean, straight, and not mangled.

string on the finger
I brushed the parts to remove as much rust as I could and put all the parts in the Evaporust bath. The reminder is so I don't forget the frog pin is in the liquid. Losing that would be a tragedy.

which one is which
The inside of the two #6 planes are identical. The top one is mine and the bottom one is the corrugated sole one.

both soles are flat
I checked them both with my straight edge but the proof of the pudding will come when I put them on the 80 grit runway.
60 grit
Most of the japanning on the heel was gone and this was to remove the rust.  The plan is to sand the interior with 60 grit, clean it with some Simple Green, and then apply stripper.

the after pic of the adjuster knob
The way to go on this is to scrub it with a toothbrush and Bar Keeps. Much more effective than letting it soak in it. I cleaned it first with orange cleaner and I used 220 grit on the inside of the knob.

nice and shiny
There are a couple of grungy spots at the top of the hole that needs attention, but overall, the knob looks great.

my #6
Most of this plane still looks good. I did the rehab on this plane several years ago and it is something to see what I did then and what I do now. I will go nutso and complete what I didn't do then. The knob and tote, the frog and the plane body. Can we say together "oh what fun that will be". And it will be like the old double mint gum commercials because I'm doing two at the same time.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was the original title for the song, "Happy Birthday to You"?
answer - Good Morning to All

Blue Tape Rules

360 WoodWorking - Sun, 10/15/2017 - 5:07am
Blue Tape Rules

Many of you know or have discovered that I have a passion for blue painter’s tape. I think blue tape rules in the woodshop. Here’s a bit of history.

In the 1920s Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing (known today as 3M) hired Richard Drew to travel around promoting the company products to automobile shops. The product he was pushing was sandpaper. Drew noticed that many of the shops struggled with different tapes. The sticky tapes of the day would not hold enough or would hold so much that paint was removed when the tape was peeled off the cars.

Continue reading Blue Tape Rules at 360 WoodWorking.

puttering saturday.....

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 10/15/2017 - 2:13am
Since I get up at oh dark thirty everyday and I am the only who does, I have to be quiet.  My oldest rolled into town on friday so I had another one to contend with. And she likes to sleep in so I really had to hunker down with finding something quiet to do. I started out playing with the 5/8" grooving plane iron, switched to the 60 1/2 block plane, went back to the grooving plane, and gave up on being in the shop. Before I left the shop I had steel wooled the box and put on a few more coats of shellac. I went back upstairs and reconciled my checking account. You can't get anymore quiet then that especially so if you and the bank agree.

the lead off batter
I went back to the shop and flattened the back of this iron again. There was a small thin, dull looking  ribbon right at the edge that I noticed this morning.  So I went back to square one and started flattening it once more again.

I checked the logo on the iron to try and date the plane. The logo on the iron matched up to the one for '1935 to the present'. But that is the iron and not necessarily indicative of the age of the block plane itself.

the top right is low
The left side takes a little dippsy doodle at the corner too but not as large as the right one.

after the 80 grit runway
I got most of the left side removed but there is still a good portion of it left on the right. I can either spend the next two months trying to sand the bevel back or leave it. This is a block plane so I am going to leave it as is for now. The other choice is to grind it straight back past the low spot and then grind a new bevel. Either method involves a lot of work and making the iron shorter. It is something that doesn't have to be done right now. Miles is still trying to get his finger coordination grabbing act together.

dewaxed shellac
I don't mind the clear shellac with all the crap from the bugs still in it. But when I went to Ace Hardware to get some shellac, this is all they had on the shelf. There wasn't an empty spot for the clear shellac, just this one and amber. I took it because I didn't want to drive all the way to Lowes to buy some clear.

I didn't see this until I had sanded the side
I'll have to go slower and pay more attention as I sand. I don't want to remove this.

sharpened the bevel again
Now that most of the bevel is honed and shiny, it is easy to see the hollow at the right corner. What is puzzling to me is that I raised a continuous burr on the back. It was pretty consistent  from one end to the other. I expected the hollow spot not to have a burr. Getting the burr there was a big reason for not grinding this away.

shiny brass to makes my day
I am back from balancing my checkbook, watching a few You Tube videos, and surviving a trip to the PO to mail out the first shipment of molding planes. I cleaned and shined up the thumb knob with Bar Keeps Best Friend and I did it a different way this time.

In the past I let it soak in Bar Keeps with some water for a while. This time I dumped some powder on a piece of paper and grabbed some water and a clean toothbrush. I dipped the toothbrush in the water to wet it, picked up some powder and scrubbed the knob.  It seemed to work better and quicker than letting it soak which never seemed to self clean. With that method I still had to scrub the brass to clean it.

box is almost done
The shellac is making the joint lines in the miters to pop out. That is understandable as I didn't smooth the miter faces after I sawed them. I had already plowed all the grooves and the dado and smoothing them in the donkey ear jig would have made a lot of blowouts on/in them.

put 3 coats here
As I was putting the finish on the box I thought the walnut needed some shine. I put shellac on the bottom rabbet and the walnut banding, on both sides. It perked up the walnut and took away the dull look it had.

didn't effect the fit of the lid
I will leave the lid off the bottom until I get to work on monday. That will give the shellac a little more time to set up and harden.
I think it looks better

It will be hidden most of the time because of the lid being on but once you remove it, you'll see this.

you can file these irons
I got the tip of it filed to fit the tongue iron but the rest it going backwards is off. I still have a lot more filing to do on this. I won't be sanding it to remove metal because the file is 100 times faster.

the fit is a lot better
The wedge shape of the iron pushed out the left side of the groove as I planed it. Over half of the length of the left groove wall separated at the bottom. At least I know I can file this and I should be able to finish this.

found it
I went nutso this morning trying to find this. I wanted to use this to hold the iron and put this in the vise. You really need both hands on the file in order to control it's cutting action.

played with these a little too
I saw these when I found the vise and tried them out. My last outing with them was a disaster. I tore out chunks of wood using them. Today I looked at the grain and used all four of them without one hiccup.  These are old tools that I have seen in Stanley catalogs from around the turn of the last century so they have been around for a while. It was like I had been using them for years.

the frog on the #6 I just got
nothing on the back of the lateral adjust
just STANLEY on the front
According to one study I did this is a type 4. On another study it is a type 5 to 8. The big clue is the lateral adjust. It didn't appear until type 5 and the round disc on it didn't happen until later with the type 6 if I remember right. So on one study it can't be a type 4 as the other puts it as a type 5. Using the second study I think the corrugated sole #6 is a type 5 and my #6 is a type 6.

my lateral adjust
This is one difference between the corrugated sole #6 and my #6. My lateral adjust has a patent date and the other doesn't. The other difference is the brass adjust knob. The corrugated one is blank and mine has a patent date in it. I know the3rd #6 is a WWII vintage one and I really don't care what type it is.

My daughter was leaving today to go back to North Carolina but the plane had issues (leaking water into the cabin) so she came back here. She is supposed to leave tomorrow at the same time. I took this opportunity to stop working and go up upstairs to play with Miles before he took his nap.

not finished
It is kind of finished but I want to raise a shine on the cheeks and sole. I have only gone through 2 grits and I have 4 more to do. It won't happen today though. Miles likes his Playschool toolbox but I think they made the hammer handle too fat for him to grip.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the size of a standard pillow?
answer - 20 x26 inches

Resizing another Shelving Unit

MVFlaim Furnituremaker - Sat, 10/14/2017 - 6:25pm

I was in the process of building another shelving unit for my wife’s new booth in Milford, Ohio. She originally asked me to build it four feet long. However, once I started to attach the shelves to the unit, she wasn’t too thrilled with the overall dimensions. I asked if she wanted it cut down to 36″ long instead of 48″, but she was afraid that it would be too much work. I assured her that I could cut it down without much problem.


I slapped the unit on top of my workbench and carefully measured where the rails were to be cut. I then grabbed my Festool plunge saw and rail system, clamped it to the lines and ran down the rail cutting as deep the blade would go.


I then flipped the unit off the bench and cut the two attached shelves in half.


After one side was free, I unscrewed the pocket holes and broke away the rails with a hammer. I then cleaned the side up with a random orbital sander.


I then flipped the other side of the unit back onto the bench and re-drilled the pocket holes to the shortened rails. For the two shelves that already had plywood nailed in place, I had to bust out the plywood with a hammer.


After about twenty minutes, the shelving unit came back together a foot shorter. I cut the remaining plywood to the new measurements and installed them using cleats on the inside of the rails.


Now it was time for the antique shutters to be screwed onto the sides.


After a coat of black paint, the shelving unit looks really nice in her new booth.


new tool for Miles........

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 10/14/2017 - 2:15am
I saw this tool on Jim Bodes's site for a good price and it was what I was looking for so I pulled the trigger. It is a Stanley block plane, the # 60 1/2. I don't know how to type these but it looks to be in good shape regardless. I bought and rehabbed a #9 block plane and this will complete the block plane acquisitions for Miles. In fact I'm done getting planes for him for the foreseeable future. The only plane I think I might snap up is a Stanley 46 if I see a good user for sale.

low angle 60 1/2
I have the LN version of the Stanley #9 which as far as I know, they don't make or sell anymore. I have the LN 102 and 103 (the 103 isn't made or sold anymore too) small non adjustable block planes and of those two I use the low angle 102 95% of the time. It is my favorite. I've been thinking of getting the LN 60 1/2 but so far the LN 102 has been working fine for me.

it has most of it's japanning
Overall this plane is clean looking and has zero dings and scratches no matter where I look. This will be a good complement for the #9 in his toolbox.

the inner parts of the plane look good too
The iron has a lot of life left in it. It should last Miles for quite a while. I will snag any irons that I see just in case.

nice shavings
These are out of the box shavings. The bevel looks and feels sharp but it has a rough scratch pattern across it. I will sharpen and hone it when I rehab it.

the lid fits
It slips on and of easily. It isn't a loose fit and it's maybe a hair shy of snug.

lid flipped 180
If fits this way too. The joint line around the lid changed a little here and there but I got the same fit. On and off with gentle pressure.

how I got the fit
The lid would not fit over the banding. It was hanging somewhere. I could fit the lid cocked like this on one end. It fits over the end and the long sides.

I could repeat it with the lid cocked on the opposite side
It is looking to be that the ends of the walnut banding are longer then the lid.

the problem
I can't see it too well but by the feel I can sense the lid is just short of the outside edge of the banding. I think I'm good on the fit on the long sides so I will start the trim and fit dancing with the ends.

started with sanding
I only did one dance step with this and stopped. I didn't want to gouge the outside lip on the bottom. The one sanding didn't get the lid to fit.

switched to the bullnose plane
After the first trim the lid fit but it was too snug for my liking. I didn't want it loose but I also didn't want a tight snug. It took 2 more trim and fit steps before I got it to my liking. The lid fit (both ways) and came off with a satisfying slight pop and went on with a minimum of pressure.

planed the outside
see the dark line?
The line is from the toe of one miter going pass the other one. I don't like this because they seem to stand out to me like a deer in the headlights. I fixed it with the small block plane by planing the high toe down to the low one.

the LN 102 was too big
I planed the round over only on the outside. I left the inside of the walnut straight. The small violin plane worked perfectly for planing the small round over.

a light sanding and it was done
left the lid as is
The round over helped some with the lid going on so I didn't do anything with the lid. I had thought of putting a small chamfer on the bottom inside of the lip. I didn't do mostly because I didn't want to  chance introducing any slop with lid mating with the bottom.

I'm calling this done
I will put a few coats of shellac on it and I should be able to bring it to work on monday. I will put shellac just on the outside of the box.

the iron bevel isn't 25°
Five strokes on the coarse stone and I'm only hitting a portion of the heel. I stopped here and ran it on the 80 grit runway until I reestablished the bevel at 25°.

forgot to do the back first
The back was pretty flat and I didn't have to spend lot of time raising a shine on it. Of course I had to sharpen the bevel again but I only had to do the fine diamond stone and the 8K japanese one.

the sole is pretty flat
this side looks to be flat
This isn't necessary but I'll do it anyways.  I do like shiny so that is all I'll do on the sides. This is where I stopped. My wife just came home with Miles and the girls and brought pizza.  I think I should be able to get the finish on the rubber band box and get the 60 1/2 rehabbed this weekend.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who became vice president after vice president Andrew Johnson became president when Lincoln was assassinated?
answer - no one

Rising Coffee Table Built in a 500 sq ft NYC Apartment

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 10/14/2017 - 2:00am

I came across David Thomas Brown’s coffee table build on Reddit last week and thought it was a great build. If you spot a build that has great photography and solid technique, send me an email! – David Lyell I remember the glory days of unlimited garage/driveway space and access to my dad’s tools that I had as a kid in Winston-Salem, North Carolina. Scrap wood in the backyard became […]

The post Rising Coffee Table Built in a 500 sq ft NYC Apartment appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

New YouTube Channel!

Anne of All Trades - Fri, 10/13/2017 - 1:51pm

The long-awaited Anne of All Trades YouTube channel is finally here! Subscribe and learn right alongside Anne as she tackles all kinds of projects in the woodshop and around the farm. Check it out at https://www.youtube.com/user/allaboutanne18

Book Giveaway: Woodworking Projects for the Kitchen

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 10/13/2017 - 6:08am

It’s getting to be that time of year. Halloween is in just a couple weeks and before you know it the shelves will be stocked with holiday stuff – heck, some stores already are. The weather’s turning cool and its the perfect time to get in the shop and make gifts for your friends and family. With the holidays in mind, I thought it would be nice to focus the […]

The post Book Giveaway: Woodworking Projects for the Kitchen appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

it is a type 4/5

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 10/13/2017 - 1:23am
A Stanley #6 was waiting for me on the dinning room table when I got home. I had seen this plane on the Timeless Tools and Treasures site last week and I had passed on it. Instead a bought a #6 from Patrick Leach's october tool list. It turned out not to be a good plane to give to Miles but this #6 is perfect. It is a type 4/5 and it is less than half the weight of the WWII vintage #6 I got from Patrick. I'll be expending a few calories to rehab it.

Miles's new plane
I think this will be the upper limit that Miles will be able to muscle for a while. Once he gets old enough I'll get him a #7 if he is still interested in woodworking. A quick once over of this plane shows it is in pretty good condition considering it's age. What is surprising is the condition of the front knob and the tote. Both are awfully good looking rosewood without a single dent or chip on them. The plane is grungy looking and shows a fair amount of use but it was also well taken care of.

my #6, type 4/5,  at the forefront
I just remembered that I had gotten my #6 from Jane at Timeless Tools & Treasures too. With the exception of the front knobs being slightly different, they are exactly the same. I didn't bother going nutso my #6 rehab because I use it only for stock prep.

why I had passed on it the first time
The sole on it is corrugated and I'm not a fan of them. However, it had a good price, looked ok, and it was an early type so I got it. It'll be Miles so him and I will get used to it, me before him. Even though I don't like this type of sole, I'll be able to use it and see if I might like it.

I believe in using as much as possible but this is a frog hair short of nothing. I have never seen an iron used up this much before. I'll have to start the search for another iron. I have a spare that I can put in this plane but that will leave me one short.

road test with a new iron

If I can't find another iron, Ray Iles makes a replacement iron that I can use here. Until then I'll use one my spare irons.
rabbeted box
This is one of two boxes that I made that has a lid detail similar to the one I'm working on now. I made these when I used machines and I didn't know how to do dovetails. All my boxes made in this era were done with rabbeted joinery.

almost 20 years old
I don't remember how I made these two but I do recall it needing two rabbets.

the two rabbets
I remember that the saw cut to separate the lid from the bottom was done on the middle of the two rabbets. I didn't make anymore of these because I wanted to make the one I did now but the inside banding held up that parade along with the miters.

rabbet on the inside of the lid
the other rabbet is on the outside
I think one advantage of this method is there is no mitering and gluing in of the banding. Both of the rabbets were made before the box was glued up.

back to new box
I like this method of doing this. I can put a contrasting wood in the banding. This way also takes a bit more finessing to do because of the miters and their fitting dance steps. I went with yellow glue on this because I planned to play with after an hour or so. That didn't happen because I ended up playing with Miles instead.

I had planned on gluing the banding into the lid rather then the bottom. Changed my mind after I got a comment from Sylvain that it might interfere with the rubber bands being in the bottom.  Makes sense as the lid would be going into the inside of the bottom rather outside it and hitting rubber bands. I think he saved me a bit of potential frustration and it possibly going airborne.

glued until tomorrow
It is taking a wee bit longer than anticipated to finish this.

checking the lid is twist free
miters look good
All four corners are the same with the toe/heels being tight and the seams consistent.

got my one complete shaving
I checked the lid first and hit the high spots. I then ran the plane around the top until I got one shaving from the starting point until I came around back to it.

curiosity satisfied
I did a quick sanding of this corner to see what the miter would look like. It needs a bit more work to even it out. I'll stop here and do the final planing and sanding of the box once I get the lid fitted.

my 5/8" match planes
I'm revisiting these after a bit of a hiatus. The irons don't come together. One of these is too big and I'm going to find out which one it is.

it's not the tongue iron
It is set too deep here but what I am looking at is the inside of the iron and how it fits with the groove in the plane. This fit is ok on the walls of the groove.

the groove plane is very well made
The skate is is great condition and straight as an arrow. There is also a wear plate underneath that is clean and straight too. I would like to get this one working even if it is an off size at 5/8.

the problem
I was thinking about this iron and what was available to craftsmen at this time to thin the width of the iron. I came up with files, stones, or a grinding wheel. I tried using sandpaper and the stones. I also did a quick squaring of the end of the iron.

used 1/2" stock

the tongue is off center which it should be
iron is set too deep
I thought I had the iron set too shallow but that shaving is way too thick.

the groove is too wide
much better groove shaving
pencil line is the depth of the groove
It looks like I have to grind, sand, rub off at least another 16th of an inch. Taking off that much on sandpaper will take a lot of time. I think I'll try a file next and see how that goes. The iron is tapered and I'll have to go back pass my pencil line at a minimum.

my other 3/4" match planes
 They are marked 3/4 but when I measure them I get 11/16 which I think is a weird size for match planes. The standard width stock then was 7/8" so this must be due to wear.

ugly looking T&G
out of square
I thought the out of square groove was due to my planing but it wasn't. The groove iron is kind of square and it isn't the reason the groove is as misshaped as it is. On closer inspection, the iron is twisted. It isn't parallel to the outside walls of the skate. Even a square iron wouldn't make a square bottom groove if it is twisted in the plane.

the tongue looks good so I'll work on the groove iron
stripped down the #6
I think I may do all three of the #6 planes together. I ordered some brass screws for the totes and brass parts for the totes and knobs. Sounds like a fun filled weekend for me. Stopped here because Mile just woke up from his nap.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
A Biblical cubit is 18 inches. How long is a Roman cubit?
answer - 17.5 inches

Finishing Workshop @ CW – Grain Filling 2

The Barn on White Run - Thu, 10/12/2017 - 3:57pm

“Cold wax” grain filling with a rush polisher was integral to the finishing practices of the ancients.  It was primarily used to finish solid wood cabinetry as opposed to the hot wax method, which was generally restricted to fancier work like marquetry.

The process is so simple that there is almost no explaining to do.  The precursor step is to plane, scrape, and in some rare instances scour the wood with abrasives like sharkskin, glass paper, or horsetail rush.  Then,  the wood surface is scrubbed with  a block of beeswax until there is a generous, but not continuous, deposit.

Taking the fiber polisher in-hand the surface is rubbed with as much pressure and vigor for as long as you can manage, first working at a slight angle to the grain, then its opposite angle, then finally with the grain.  The friction developed at the point of contact between the tip of the polisher and the wood generates enough heat to turn the wax buttery and presses it down into the grain, filling it.

In some instances, as I had them do in this exercise, the surface is sprinkled with a colorant, usually powdered pigment or resin that has been ground into a fine flour.  In this case I had them use some raw umber pigment to accentuate the technique (in the real world the colorant would be selected to best fit the coloration of the wood).

When finished any excess wax would be scraped off then the surface buffed with linen and wool rags until there is a uniform gloss.

For most plain solid wood furniture and cabinetry, this actually sufficed as the finished surface and nothing more would be done.  You can see the resulting surface at the upper left corner of this sample board.

Mill a Log into Lumber with Ron Herman

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 10/12/2017 - 12:42pm

Every woodworker who sees a downed tree quickly says a short prayer to the gods of nature and immediately thinks of turning that log into lumber. It’s just natural to want to see a natural resource being utilized and not wasted. And, of course, procuring some inexpensive lumber doesn’t suck either! But what does it take to rescue a downed tree? Well, a mill and some friends (with trucks!) would […]

The post Mill a Log into Lumber with Ron Herman appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking


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