General Woodworking

Bit down hard on the bullet and sawed off all of the battens. After that I planed the top smooth and twist free 360. The previous sentences don't make much sense because the pic that proceeded vanished. Don't know how or why, just another black hole blogger mystery. 

last one

I got lucky in that all of the boxes checked twist free. Round 2 for battens was in the on deck circle.

new batten stock

This stock is a frog hair wider than 1". Band sawn to 3/8" thickness and planed smooth down to the knife lines. I thought I had enough stock here for all of them but I was one short.

ready for battens

The hiccup with the stock was I could only get one batten each out of all of the short pieces. The off cuts were an 1/8" short. Sigh.

the difference

The left one is the original and the right is the new one. I am not going to nail these but that may change. I might use brass brads if I get the itch to nail the top battens.

glued and cooking

 Took a while longer to do these vice the first ones. With these I aligned one edge of the batten flush with the side. Any proud I put on the opposite side. Had to deal with the battens slipping and sliding when I first applied clamp pressure.

flushing the proud ends

Clamped an extra batten to prevent blowout. After I planed the proud flush I sanded the sides/ends with 80 and 120 grit.

last one

All of the battens held fast. I secured them with glue, no fasteners used.

nope

This was the practice/test lid from yesterday. It didn't fit - not even close to it.

done

Planed flush, sanded smooth, and ready for finish. These took a few minutes and boatload of calories to get a check mark in the done column.

new test lid

This went surprisingly well. No hiccups, no rework, no flight plans filed, and the locking batten is long enough. Got a 1/4" under the right batten and 5/16" under the left one. Got a warm fuzzy with the lid staying in place now.

half done

Got one fixed batten glued and cooked. It was almost quitting time so I put off gluing the other fixed batten. I'll do that in the AM.

accidental woodworker
 

 

last night

Came back to the shop and whacked out two more boxes. Of course one of them had to split on me. I am now of the opinion that predrilling, while helpful, doesn't eliminate splitting. The wood is going to do what it wants regardless. I've looked at the grain with the splits occurred and it was all squirrely running in a bazillion different directions. And I don't think the type of wood matters neither.

one more box

With these long sides I will now have 8 boxes. The assembly line is still working, much better than I anticipating it being.

slight taper

This is annoying but it is way better than what I used to get resawing. It took me less the five minutes to flatten these two to the knife lines.

2 for 8

Two of the eight boxes were twist free. The other six were untwisted with just a few plane strokes.

bottoms

First two glued, clamped, and cooking. Got all 8 done and set aside to set up.

last two

I used some 1/8" thick plywood that was used to separate a shipment of solid 1/4" and 1/2" thick wood I had bought online. Used that for the bottoms of the boxes.

cleaned up

Planed and sanded all the bottoms flush. Battens and lids are in the on deck circle.

battens cooking

Five here and 3 on the workbench.

lids

Used 1/4" poplar for the lids. This is an extra for any oops of which I'm sure I'll do. I hope that it is only one oops, if any.

1/4" plywood

Why didn't this happen on the other japanese boxes I made? Dawned on me to test fit one lid out of plywood vice using the actual 1/4" poplar lids. And with the assembly line approach, once this fits I am good for the 8 real lids.

hmm......

This is how much fits under the left batten. The right batten gets a 1/4". After playing with this and 2 more test lids, I came to the realization that I should have made the battens wider. The size on the boxes is 3/4" wide (twice the thickness of the sides) which leaves roughly 3/8" for a lid to slide under.

got the length

It is not easy to insert the lid underneath the left batten and then push it to the right under that batten. I still don't have much room under the left one but it is about a 1/16" more than the first one. I plan on doing one poplar lid first and checking it before proceeding with the remaining 7.

sigh

The locking batten slides in to much. I made the two of them from a 1" wide piece and I was expecting the sliding batten to close up more aligned at the ends with the fixed one. 

Left this here and called it quits for the day. This lid detail is kicking my arse again like it did on the other small boxes I made. It was getting to be frustrating and escalating to the free flying lessons level so I killed the lights. I'll attack it again in the AM.

accidental woodworker 

 Had an appointment at the VA today to check up on my back cyst surgeries. In spite of jacking the volume up on my hearing aids I still had trouble hearing the doc. I don't know all of what he did but he said they looked good with one a little worse than the other. He bandaged them and told me to remove them in 3 to 5 days. They feel a lot better now sitting back in a chair. The bandages provide a nice cushion. Looking forward to sleeping on my back tonight without them waking me up.

hmm.....

Overall the bandsawn pieces looked ok to the eyeball. There was a slight taper to each individual board - enough to be a potential hiccup putting the boxes together. I ran a knife line 360 on each board and planed down to it.

surprise

I have enough stock to make 7. I was thinking maybe 4 or possibly 5, not 7.

????

Went on line and got the scoop on how to install a link belt. Supposedly there is an arrow every tenth link denoting the direction of the belt travel when installed. I checked every single tooth and nada. I found no indications or markings and I checked on both sides. 

The flat side of the belt faces up and the other side with the 'fingers' is down in the vee of the pulleys. I had to remove a couple of links because initially the blade didn't ramp up quick. Removing two links did the trick.

sigh

First box glued and nailed together. Along with a split. I have not had good luck with these cut nails. No matter which way I have nailed them I get splits. It is frustrating and incredibly annoying.

3 on each end

I have more nails on order from Lee Valley. I'm not sure if I have enough to do all the boxes but there is enough to do the 3 I need to give to my sister.

sigh

While clamping one split I noticed a 2nd on the opposite end. The 2nd box came out split free.

predrilling

I predrilled the holes in the sides and then nailed the long sides to the ends. What I didn't do for the first two boxes was to drill through the long sides into the ends. For some brain dead reason I didn't think it was necessary. I was wrong again.

#3

Box #3 came out split free. BTW, I was only getting splits on the two outside nails. I drilled through the sides into the ends which seems to eliminate the threat of splits. I had continued success with box #4 coming out split free.

batten stock

Went nutso sawing out batten stock. I had a pile of scrap 3/4" thick pine that gave up this pile. I ripped it off and it was slow going. The saw was bogging down and I almost stalled the blade several times. The arbor pulley nut is still tight and the pulley is uniform when I move it 360. No taper or wobbling so that wasn't the hiccup. I'll be removing a few more links tomorrow.

So far the boxes are turning out uniform in dimensions. The OD and ID dimensions are almost dead nuts on. Feeling good so far about the assembly line boxes. Should be quicker and easier to finish them.

accidental woodworker

Today's installation. 2.4 x 1.9m window in Accoya. 28mm argon-filled DGUs. It's not listed, but it is a traditionally built barn, with lime mortar masonry, converted to a house. When it was converted, the window that was put here, was sealed with expanding foam and portland cement, causing the window to rot and damp problems inside. This new window has been sealed with Oakum and lime mortar, which should help with the damp issues. Wet hessian outside curtains, to protect the mortar while it cures.

Draining beads to give the window it's best chances against the weather. Osmo + to protect the dark oak stain.

In the main worksshop this week, with the window in production, and a few other jobs on the bench.

My new(old) Multico morticer. If you need to use a machine, use an accurate machine...

....do it once..........and free yourself up for handtool work!

If you use old machines, you need accurate hand tools to maintain them. I love this adjustable spanner, all the way from Buffalo, NY. It stays where you set it!

Talking of tools, making some is getting closer. The forge is now up and running, and what a forge it is! Gas with the possibility of using coal, and with the lid on, a kiln.

 

almost

The shelf is a few frog hairs being shy of fully seated. Checked the notch for the charging cable was good and it was. 

fitting the shelf

Trying to plane the notch area with the blockplane wasn't working. The notches were playing havoc with evenly pushing the plane over them. Sanded the shelf with 100 grit until I got a snug fit.

sanded up to 600 grit

I wasn't sure how the epoxy would look like just being sanded up to 220. I added 320, 400, 500, and 600 grit. Would have done more but 600 is the highest grit I have.

the finish

I like how easy it is to apply this finish but more so how it looks. I did a couple of small japanese boxes with it and 2 months later they still look good.

pre test

Before I committed to using the finish I applied some to same cherry as the stand. It looks wet and different against the natural unfinished wood.

first coat

I'm happy with how the first coat looks. The epoxy came out looking fine. No scratches and the finish didn't cloud or obscure it. Big difference between the finished wood and the natural unfinished raw state.

plastic feet

I like these for two reasons - one they elevate it about an 1/8 inch and two they keep it stationary. The feet act like 'anchors' keeping it where you set it. As a bonus I can apply the finish to the bottom at the same time as the rest of the stand.

next project

My oldest sister is staying with her daughter in Norwich. When I went there to pick her up I brought a load of boxes I made to give to my nieces and nephews. Donna liked the japanese boxes and asked me to make 3 more of them for her son's children. Started by resawing a bunch of scrap pine to about 3/8" thickness.

for the sides and ends

These are slightly thicker than 3/8" which I will thin down when I plane the band sawn faces.

hmm.....

Thought about using these for the bottoms and lids. I changed my mind because I don't like gluing up sock for lids/bottoms. I will stick these in boneyard and I'm sure I'll find a use for them.

1/4" poplar

This is what I am using for the lids. The bottoms will be 1/8" plywood.

 Looking forward to some assembly line work. I think I have enough stock to whack out 4, maybe 5 of these. Depends upon whether or not I run into any hiccups. Doing the locking batten kicked my arse on the two small ones I've already made.

accidental woodworker 

hmm.....

This ain't going to work. This is bigger than an 8x10 but that wouldn't fit neither. The option as a frame holder is out and this is strictly a cell phone holder/charging station now.

enough already

I already made a blood offering and I still found another split. This is on the opposite side of the ones I glued yesterday.

cooking

Got the uprights finally glued in. The shelf is in dry keeping its place for when it is glued next.

 

)%&@Q)%@Q gap fixer

It isn't much of a gap but it is wide enough to throw me into a tizzy fit. I will fill it in with that piece of cherry veneer.

need a notch

I have made cell phone charging station but without a notch/hole for the charging wire. Old dogs can still learn/remember sometimes.

gap gone

This was the best match I can get with the small scraps of cherry veneer I had. I will secure it with a few dabs of superglue.

nope

The width of the notch is spot on but the depth from the back is short. I had thought initially that I had made it extend into the shelf too much.

sigh....

This came this close '' to getting free flying lessons. Noticed this before I was going to glue the shelf on.

fits but.....

I moved the notch in further another 1/2" but the plug wire end was up tight against the end of the notch. I had to drill it out another 1/4" to get some wiggle room.

gone somewhere in.....

Got flying lessons here because I was done fixing splits and pieces popping off. This is now somewhere out in the wide blue yonder.

shelf #3

Laid out what I hope is the final shelf for a one day project that has morphed into several days now.

too snug

I got a bit of blowout on the end when I sawed it square. The notches are too snug but I am ok with that. The important thing is that there aren't any gaps on either notch. 

almost there

Checked the notch and it is good. Lots of empty space and wiggle room. Not fitted yet or glued yet. It'll be another day before it is done. Then I get to pick a finish and I'm not thinking of shellac this time.

came today

This is the awaited tenth anniversary edition. Got some reading material for at least one day.

Today was sweltering and humid. The temp get up to 97F -36C. A wee bit toasty and I soaked my T shirt on my post lunch stroll. In spite of the heat I did the walk with zero discomfort. I took my time, going slower than I normally do, and I got a Dels lemonade (a slushy ice lemonade) for the last 20 minutes walking back to the barn. It doesn't look like this weather is going away time soon neither.

accidental woodworker

Spent most of the day with my sister in and around Norwich Conn. We went out for fish 'n chips because she can't get seafood in Avila Indiana. We got stuck in traffic 4 times along with the usual slow downs due to it being tourist season in this part of south eastern Connecticut. In spite of that I got it toolbox done. I had applied the last of the shellac last night after dinner and in the first part of today's AM session. It was ready for glamour pics when I returned to the barn.

first glamour pic

One of five knots visible on the toolbox. This one and one on the diagonal brace are brown knots - both reinforced with superglue. There are 3 reddish knots on the opposite long side, all stacked vertically.

2nd pic

The simplicity of the built handles is stunning IMO. No hardware required for the handles and the lid. Brilliant.

pic #3

This toolbox will transport a lot of tools. Still trying to wrap my brain bucket around this being just a box to transport tools, not to stow them.

s

locking batten

I like this even though it isn't necessary. Gives me a warm and fuzzy about securing the lid.

without the locking batten

It isn't needed nor necessary to secure the lid and keep it in place. However, if it isn't employed only one batten will be up tight against one of the top battens. There will be a slight gap with the other lid batten. I like the the look of having all the battens up against each other when locked in place. 

hmm.....

This is the one that was superglued. It didn't hold up. Popped off when I tried to fit the shelf and upright notches. Glued and clamped it while I visited with my sister.

looking slanted a wee bit

Took care of that with a few extra raps on the high upright.

sneak peek

I like how this is coming out. Definitely too large for a cell phone holder/charging stand but perfectly sized to hold an 8x10 (or smaller) frame.

not glued yet

The right notch fit is loose and the left one is a snug fit. The uprights are square to the base and the shelf eyeballed parallel to it. When I do glue this I will dry fit the shelf and just glue the uprights. After those are set I'll repeat for the shelf.

 accidental woodworker

This chest is being designed as I go. The panels to each side  need something else to the carving. It's only now, with the trial assembly, that I realise what it is.

Not a huge adjustment; the leaves in the top part, needed more definition, and detail. And of course, having raking light, with the chest front in it's intended, vertical orientation, helps a lot.

And just another gratuitous photo of the central panel.

I now have to decide the design for the stiles. Enough foliage; I am thinking something with birds.

If you follow my substack blog then you’ve already seen these two boxes. But I post frequently there, which bumps the post with the boxes off the top of the order. So I’ll put them here for a while.

Small carved oak box

It’s based on some Thomas Dennis boxes, one of which I’ve seen, the others I only know from photographs. It’s made just the same as a period box – in this case, riven red oak with a millsawn pine board for the bottom. It’s small – 6 1/8” high, 9 1/4” x 13 3/4”. But it’s made just the same as my other full-sized boxes – all the oak riven and planed by hand, corner joints fastened with glue and wooden pins. This time it has iron hinges – these small-scale examples from Horton Brasses (although the hinges are iron.) A lidded till inside.

It’s available for sale – $1,000 – including shipping in the US. If you’re interested, email me and we can sort out the details. These days I add Paypal’s fee onto the price if paying that way. A check, though old-school, avoids the fee. My email is here Peterfollansbee7@gmail.com

a gallery of images

…………………

Carved oak box with lock

There’s a story to this one – I made it several years ago – and a customer bought it and two other pieces. The story I heard is that someone didn’t like them, so they went into storage. I bought them back this summer – in the exact same condition they were in when they left here. This one’s not a copy of an existing box, but it’s typical in most of its features. Red oak box with white pine for the lid & bottom. The carvings are based on the works associated with Thomas Dennis of Ipswich, Massachusetts. The scrolls on the front appear in dozens of pieces from his shop. This box is nailed at the rabbeted corners – with what we often now call “T-heads” – wrought nails whose heads are flatted to form a narrow, wide head that buries nicely in the oak.

A till inside, oak lid with pine bottom & sides. In this view, you can also see the iron “gimmal” hinges- better known today as snipes/snipebill hinges.

These are the most common hinges on carved boxes in the 17th century. I only use them once in a while – I more often make a wooden hinge. These are simple and quick. But setting them just right takes a deft hand.

H: 7 1/8” W: 21 3/4” D: 13 3/4”
linseed oil finish
$2,000

Email me at PeterFollansbee7@gmail.com if you’re interested in purchasing this box (or ordering any of my oak furniture…)

hmm......

Shelf #2 is long enough but it is only a 1/4" wide than the original. I want the replacement shelf to be at least a 1/2" wider.

better

This is better choice. Still long enough (R/L) with plenty of wiggle room in the width.

just right

I thinned this down to a knife line laid 360 and it is a few frog hairs thicker than the notch in the uprights. I will plane this edge to fit after the uprights are glued and set.

expected

No problems planing the excess epoxy but there were planing the wood.  Got a ton of tear out around the epoxy mostly in the area out toward the curved end. Sigh.

sigh some more......

Tried to plane it away first coming at it from every conceivable angle without any success. This is the third card scraper I tried to remove the tear out with. The first two sucked but this curved one got 90% of it. It wasn't easy and it took a lot of calories and time and in the end I couldn't get 100% of it.

shortened the belt

I remember having to do this on my previous tablesaw. It took me 3 tries before I got it to work. The blade ramped out quickly and the sound changed too. I didn't have the low whooshing sound anymore. Now it was more high pitched.

feeling better

Rip cuts in pine and cherry. Neither one bogged or stalled and I was able to push them both through the blade at the same rate as with the rubber v belt. I think I got it but the belt may stretch with continued use and I'll deal with that by removing another link(s).

almost done

I thought I was and was shooting the first glamour pic when I noticed that I hadn't finished applying shellac to the sliding lock batten. One more day before the glamour pics get posted.

yikes.....

Both sides of the left notch split. The left side a clear break and the right just split/cracked. Yellow glue for the left and super glue for the right.

layout

Before I glued the boo boos, I laid out the arc on the shelf.

last step

I was hoping to get the uprights glued today but that didn't happen. Maybe tomorrow in the AM session. 

Got a new routine this day. On mondays I walk to Johnny's Chalet for breakfast. When I get back to the barn I do my sudoku and crossword puzzles. What got added today was doing my exercises I got from Physical Therapy. Those took over an hour to do. For this first week I will do them every other day. Next week I will try to do two days in a row and one day off. That is all dependent upon how I feel after doing them. Still did my post lunch stroll and didn't feel any odd or unpleasant effects during or after it. That is a good sign.

accidental woodworker 

done

The steam iron box is done. 4 coats of shellac? I am going to leave the stick in the lid to give the shellac a week or so to harden.

3/8" link belt

This one fit within the vee of both pulleys. However, it bogs down when ripping boards. It also hesitates when I first turn it on. It takes longer for the saw blade to ramp fully up to speed. Wasn't expecting this at all as I had used a link belt successfully on my last tablesaw.

The original belt even though it has the snot beat out of it and it is chewed up in few spots, it still works. It doesn't bog at all in rip cuts and instantly comes up to full speed when turn on. I'll take a few more links off the belt and see what that does. It should increase the tension which should increase power transmission. 

uprights

Laid out a ten degree angle for the uprights. After I sawed and planed it smooth, I cut a notch in them to hold the shelf.

two mortises

Took my time and chopped out two mortises for the uprights. Self supporting and no gaps. The uprights aren't shouldered neither.

hmm.....

There isn't enough lean back on the uprights. I eyeballed the second cut by eye - didn't use a bevel gauge this time.

better

That should do it for lean back. The first one was too close to zero on vertical.

filled in with epoxy

I got this epoxy from my wife - don't know why she had bought it. I don't know what type it is but it is slow set. It has a 40 minute open time.

bubble killer

I stirred a lot of bubbles into this and the heat gun appeared to 'pop' every single one of them.

Yikes

So glad that this epoxy has a 40 minute open time. I had watched the dark spot at the top right slowly soak up all the epoxy. This was the spot that was soft and spongy too. The second application of epoxy did the trick. When I checked it after my post lunch stroll, it was still proud of the surface. Dead in the water with this now as I'll have to wait until tomorrow to proceed working on it.

sneak peek

After seeing the shelf where it will call home I'm thinking maybe I should make another one that is wider. I plan on matching the arc from the base onto the shelf. It doesn't appear to my eyeball that it is wide enough for that.

accidental woodworker

 The start of today was total overcast (no rain) but it was supposed to be sunny in the PM. So based on that I took a chance and went to Gurney's Sawmill. I had my doubts because on the way out it sprinkled a few times. No rain drops fell but I was a bit apprehensive but I survived. On the return home by the time I was close to the Rhode Island border, the sun was out and the sky was blue.

I was disappointed in the D select pine that got. The same 1x12 I had marked sawing in half a few weeks ago was still available. There were only four 1x12 boards for sale. I only bought three of them and a few 1x10's. I should have called ahead to check but I assumed that stock would be replenished within a week. It would seem that I ass-u-med incorrectly.

mixture

I bought one 1x12 that was 12 feet long and a second one that was 16 feet long. I also got same length with two 1x10's. Disappointing that I'll have work with thinner width stock. As an aside the 1x12's were 11 1/4" wide and the 1x10's were 9 3/16". Why fart around like this and just sell 1x1's as 1x12s?

1x10s

The 1x10's were mostly clear, a lot clearer than the 1x12s. The grader for the 1x12 stock should go back to school and learn how to measure diameters. D select allows for 1/2" diameter knots but I got one board with a 2" diameter one. But there wasn't much room to quibble due to what was available.

still on the fence

I am now leaning in the direction of turning this into holding a frame. I think that is a better use for it. I can make the cellphone holder with a much smaller base and differently styled uprights. Laying out a large arc on the front edge.

base roughed out

I have to mortise for the uprights next. Once that is done I will make a chamfer on the front and the two sides. Not sure if I'll continue it on to the back edge but.....

hmm.....

I was going to leave this as is but I changed my mind. The defect is a little loose and spongy in spots. I am going to fill this in with clear epoxy to consolidate it and keep it intact.

This is all I got done for today. My oldest sister came up for a visit and landed today in Norwich Conn. Spent time with her on the phone and we're going to do lunch on tuesday or wednesday. Excited about having her all to myself for lunch - it has been a bazillion years since we have filled the pie holes together.

accidental woodworker 

Work holding is a never ending struggle in my woodworking life. I’m at the point in the loom project where I need to make a small comb to allow the weave to be packed down after each pass of the shuttle. This needs a pretty thin piece of stock to be worked. None of my normal work holding solutions work for something this small and flexible.

On with the bottom rail. Chalked out first, with charcoal to show where the joints will be.

In with v-gouge.

Giving us this.

And grounded.

A few adjustments to make, but you get the idea.

 Still applying the finish to the tool and steam iron boxes. Not done with either one yet. I had a physical therapy appointment and that ate up the entire PM session. My left leg is weak and I don't have the ability to lift up my right leg up while sitting. The PT tech spent over an hour going over some exercises for me to do at home along with 10 pound ankle weights. I have a follow up in 4 weeks and check my progress.

hmm.....

When the internet went out last week I had to surf with my cell phone. It was awkward and a PITA to hold it while watching/listening to it. I thought of making this stand to hold it if and when that need may arise again.

This is the 2nd concept for it. The first one consisted of only one upright and I like the look of two. It makes it look sturdier and stronger with twin uprights. There is more shaping etc etc to come but this gives a starting point for it. 

While I was playing around with this I came up with another use for it. I could use it to hold a picture frame. I like the 2nd use more than the intended purpose.

2nd base choice

I was thinking of making a thinner width with a slight arc on the front edge. This scrap of cherry is too thin for that but it would work for leaving it as is. And I have two more uprights to left front of it.

the winner

I like the defects in this piece of cherry for the base. I still have to play with the placement of the uprights to maximize the defects. So far placing the uprights behind it is at the head of the line.

shelf

The uprights are roughly 3/8" thick and the shelf is about 5/16". Working on how to position the shelf into the uprights. Put it in straight and angle the bottom of the uprights? Or angled both the bottom of the uprights and the shelf into the uprights. The uprights will have angled front faces so that will have to be taken into account too for placing the shelf across the two uprights. 

I'll start on that in the AM. I am thinking that I will make at least two of them.

accidental woodworker 

 Slow day in the shop - slapping shellac on the tool and iron boxes. Made a lot of trips up and down to shop but I didn't complete either one. Maybe tomorrow. Don't know what is next in the queue. I thought about it but nada. I'm running out of holes to stick the things I make into. Spent a lot time catching up on my reading.

needed more shellac

I had enough Everclear to mix up a new batch of shellac. I buy empty quart cans and I usually mix up 2 cups but not today. I should have enough (fingers crossed) to do the two.

two more to go

I got four coats on the bottom and one on everything else. I might be done with this by tomorrow if I go back to the shop after dinner.

not as quick

I initially was going to leave all the layout lines in pencil but I nixed that. Used alcohol and 120 grit to erase them. Doing the bottom of the lid and the bottom of the toolbox along with the ends first. This won't done today and maybe not even tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

 The toolbox build didn't go smoothly even though the finish line was in view. All the woodworking is done and I'm thinking of a finish for it. Toying with the idea of painting it? However, that is one finish I haven't seen on line with any japanese toolbox. Another idea is BriWax. I used it on a couple of boxes a few years ago and they still looked good when I recently checked them. Or I could default to my favorite - shellac.

comparison diagonal

Before I settled on which one to use, I needed to make a 2nd one.

not as wide

This diagonal isn't as wide as the first one but it is wide enough to compare the two.

hmm.....

This kills it for me. I don't like the toe of the diagonal extending past the side. I am sticking with the first one.

sigh

I am not going postal over this but I am upset with why I don't know how I did it. I had four of these saw cuts on two battens and 3 were good and this one is toast.

sliding locking batten

Leaving this one long. I have found that a little extra length makes it easier to remove it.

got lucky

Replacing the batten and it is the single one. I don't have to plane a compound angle.

link belt

The link belt is 5 1/2 ft long which is more than enough for what I need.

not working 100%

Made a me-steak with this belt. It is a 1/2" wide and the pulleys are 3/8" wide. The saw made a cut but it was bogging donw and actually stalled on me. I ordered a 3/8" wide one from Amazon and I'll have it saturday. This 1/2" link belt will be used on the bandsaw when I finally get around to swapping out the motors.

flipped it

The marks came from the belt being flipped. I turned it inside out so the little fingers faced downward into the pulley. What a difference that made. It sounded better and stronger and the saw cut and didn't bog or stall. It felt stronger and lest resistant rip sawing a couple of scraps. Just pine and I don't know how well it will perform with a hardwood yet.

smoother

The edge is not uneven and rough. The wood also seemed to more easily advance through the saw blade. The bonus is the finish on this edge is like night and day to what I have been getting on rip cuts. I wouldn't hesitate to edge glue two boards with this cut. This is also the replacement batten.

transferring screw holes

Made a boo boo here that I glad no one was here to see. The screw holes didn't extend all the way through. I didn't catch that tidbit on the first go around trying to transfer the hole pattern on the new batten.

done

I don't know for sure but I think I aligned the new and old screw holes with this replacement batten.

got it right

I sawed the batten about a 16th longer on each end. Flushed it the blockplane.

glamour pic #1

The interior dimensions are 8 1/4" high, 14" wide, and 27 1/2" long. That is a lot of real estate for tools. No sliding till but that is subject to change with whim or boredom.

glamour pic #2

I think the lid and especially the built in handles make this toolbox special.

tapered gap

This is from a supposedly no mortise hinge. This gap causes my OCD to go into overdrive.

made it better

I fiddled and faddled with making the notch for the hinges for a bazillion years. I would chisel a wee bit and check the fit/gap. I got the hinges flush with the notches but the gap is still a bit tapered. Cut my losses and accepted it as is.

it is a locking catch

I almost made a road trip to ACE to buy one of these. Saved gas and time by checking my bins and finding this one and 2 others.

for the iron

1/4" plywood for the iron to sit in. I used the cardboard bottom as the pattern for making this. I sawed it in half to give the iron some wiggle room.

done

The box is easy to pick up and put away. Here I had convinced myself that this didn't need a finish. After all it is just a shop box.

hmm......

The lid wouldn't fit both ways. This end had a slight hump in the middle and it wouldn't slide under one of the battens. After 3 swipes and checks the lid would go on either way.

changed my mind

Decided to slap on 3 coats of shellac. Before I did that I put wood putty on this end of box which had a couple of teeny gaps. I'll sand and do the shellac tomorrow.

accidental woodworker 

They’re here: Workbench plans!

By popular request (no really!) we’re delighted to announce the publication of our workbench plans.

We’ve drawn plans to build our rock solid, take-apart bench in 1m, 1.5m, 2m, 3 1/2′, 5′ and 7′ lengths with a choice of two different vices. You have the choice of metric or imperial measurements. They’re not just conversions of the measurements we usually work in, they’re designed from the ground up in each system. They’re available in our new shop here.

Each set of plans includes 6 A1 drawings, an A4 drawing and 11 pages of instructions. We’re now working on a series of videos for YouTube to support builders with the plans. The plans are currently available for download. Paper plans will be available very soon.

From the introduction to the instructions:

“Our garage used to be a coffin makers’ workshop; in it there is a 10’ bench that is older than any living woodworker. It is built from whatever material didn’t make the grade for coffins and is hammered together with the random selection of nails they had to hand.

Despite the apparent lack of joinery, low grade materials and optimistic approach to bracing it survived life in a busy professional workshop.

Your bench will be better. It will have better joinery, more carefully selected materials and a better design. And you will put more time and thought into building it. So there’s plenty of room for error. When building it live by the phrase “It’s a workbench, not a piano.” When you’ve finished it don’t point out the errors to friends and family and soon you’ll forget where they are. If you get tear-out when you plane it: don’t worry. If you pull out a lump as you drill a through-tenon: never mind. These scars will blend with the clamp marks, the saw cuts and the glue spots that will appear the moment you start using it. Remember: “It’s a workbench, not a piano.”

The design of this bench has been evolving for many years. We run chairmaking workshops and so have built a lot of benches. With each generation they get a little bit better and this is the result.

These benches are designed for woodworkers who have a small amount of space and time to practice their craft. Space that is probably shared with bicycles, a lawn mower and a jet wash. They need a rock solid platform for planing, sawing and chiselling but have to pack it up and share it with the rest of their lives.”

Don’t forget we’re taking part in Cambridge Open Studios this month so if you want to come and have a look round we’re here between 10am and 5pm on the 12th&13th and 26th&27th July.

As always, if you’re interested in coming on a course and you want to find out more please give us a ring (07778 397328) or drop us an email. You can book all of our courses through the links on our website. If our dates aren’t perfect for you or you want to book for a group give us a call; we can usually work something out.

Enjoy your time in the workshop.

StJohn & Bryony

 Had another VA appointment today and I had two big cysts removed from my back. One cyst had become infected a few months back but the VA ER didn't remove the cyst sack. They had just drained it. I didn't want to go through that pain roller coast ride through hell again so today it was excised. They also removed a 2nd one the doctor had noticed on the initial appointment on my spine. Wouldn't that be fun if it became infected? The small one was about an 3/4" in diameter and the other (on the spine) was about 1" in diameter.

It took the team (3 doctors, two were residents) almost 3 hours to dig the two of them out of me. It is now about 5 hours later and they feel sore especially so sitting at my desk typing up this post. During the short time I spent in the shop in the PM session I hardly was aware of neither one.

flushing the top and bottom

Having the top and bottom on will provide rigidity and strength for the sawing off the lid which is in the batter's box.

separating the lid

I've come a long way with hand sawing. I can still remember the times where I wouldn't have even considered doing this. I'm not perfect at it but so far I've been able to plane the two parts to fit ok.

done

Took about 10 minutes with the #4 and a blockplane to get a flat, decent fit.

no mortise hinges

Not my first choice, but they work. As for them being no mortise hinges, I'm on the fence about that claim. I set this aside after I got the hinges on and I will have to find a catch for closing the lid. No handles, I think this is small enough to not need them.

got lucky

This chunk popped off when I broke this shutter apart. It broke off cleanly and in one piece. Glued, clamped, and set it aside to cook.

back to the toolbox

Planing the width to be a 16th less then the inside width of the toolbox.

sigh.....

3 dabs of superglue to temporarily hold this batten on. I initially had set it back from the edge one inch and then sawed it to length. Sawed it too short and the left side end was short of the top batten, but I got lucky - I just moved the fixed batten to 1/2". That gave me a 1/2" under each top end batten which should be sufficient to keep the lid in place. There is no stress or marriage between the lid and the toolbox so a captured 1/2" on each end will keep the lid in place when it is locked in place with the sliding batten.

#8-1 1/4" spax screws

I love these screws. They don't need a pilot hole and I can only remember a few times where they split. I had bought a box of a thousand years ago and this is all I have left. I had originally bought them from Highlands but they no longer sell them and I'm having problems finding them on line.

#8-1 1/4" brass screws

Not what I wanted (cost 3 times what a spax does) to use but they are all I have. No yellow glue (just the 3 dabs of superglue) to attach the battens. I shouldn't have to replace them but it is something that can be easily done now.

gap

Don't like gaps and I popped off the fixed batten and pushed up against the sliding one tight to the top end batten. Marked the lid and reset the fixed batten again with superglue.

superglue isn't quick acting

I tried to hold the batten with hand pressure for a few and nada. The glue wouldn't stick. I had to clamp it for about a minute before the superglue decided to play nice.

it is square

The end top batten is square (ish) to the sides and the locking battens are square to it. And with no gaps.

hmm......

The lid was fitting a frog hair off of snug after I secured the fixed battens to the lid. I did 2 runs on the top and bottom long edges. That gave me a better fit with a gap that was a few frog hairs wider.

diagonal brace

Rough sawed the angles and sweetened the fit with the LN 102. This is hands down my absolute favorite plane. I have its sibling LN 103 too but I hardly ever use it. I use its iron to swap out into the 102 when needed.

dry fitted

I'm thinking of making another diagonal that is the same as the plans call for. Just so I can compare these two although I do like the fit and look of this one.

first 3 digit temp day

Wow, 100F - 38C. It definitely felt like it along with the humidity even worse than the other day. As an aside if it was 100C it would be 212F which is the point at which water boils. The shop temp rose 2 degrees from 77F to 79F - 26C. Still a lot better than the outside temp.

accidental woodworker 

 Today was cloudy, rainy, overcast, and sunny. It alternated between all phases for most of the day. It was also humid, the oppressive, wet blanket slapping you in the face humidity. Made for a miserable day. I got nothing done on the toolbox with most of the AM taken up with a doctor's appointment. I'm headed for PT in 3-4 weeks. Made a bunch of road trips of which several were repeats because I forgot things on the previous runs. All and all it was day I hope doesn't repeat again anytime soon.

sigh

The plywood I wanted for the top and bottom turned out to be too small. I had made 3 runs to Lowes today, the last one to get a 1/4 sheet of plywood that I forgot on the first two road trips to Lowes. I want the lid and bottom on and set before I saw the lid free.

oops

I thought I was snapping a pic of these being done. I was wrong because I had assembled one small and large one wrong. 

left one is toast

I put the cross bearers on the wrong side. I got lucky as I able to bust it apart. That was not the first time I did this. Things got a wee bit frustrating and it took all the will power I could muster not to beat the snot out these shutters with a 3lb sledge hammer. 

The first time I put it back together I did it wrong, again. Then I did it wrong again but on the 3rd attempt I finally got it correct. But boys and girls, I wasn't done because I repeated the same brain fart, left handed, idiotic hiccup with the large shutter. 

ta-da

It was very easy to confuse myself on this as evident by how many times I had to redo them. I had kept a correctly assembled short one as the pattern for doing the other ones.

nope

I got this 'equivalent' belt from an auto parts store and it isn't any where near to being a replacement. This was another wasted road trip as I drove by the store each time I went to Lowes not stopping in to get it.

the pulley

I have had this tablesaw for 20 years? I never connected half this pulley and nut falling off being a potential problem. I assumed the rough rip cuts were because the saw blade was dull. Based on how the belt looks and how much of it was shredded on the sawdust shelf, I can see now why the saw cut looked so rough.

????

When I tightened the two pulley halves together, it was skewed. I tried moving it around to see if the two pulley halves were deliberately tapered but I don't think so after farting aground with this for 1/2 an hour.

WTF?

Another hiccup I noticed was the shaft the pulley is on is keyed. But I couldn't find a key if there was one. I sifted through all the sawdust that was under the saw and found nothing. The right half of the pulley is fixed - I couldn't move or dislodge it even one frog hair.

A parts diagram was as clear as mud. And I wasn't even sure that it was the correct one. I bought a link belt off Amazon for $26. I am supposed to get it tomorrow. Fingers crossed that will happen because the current belt ain't looking too healthy anymore.

cooking

Finally said No Mas after this. I was getting short tempered and I wasn't able to focus. I almost I sawed the top and bottom short. The little voice told me to take my head of out my arse and double check it. Glad I listened.

I plan on focusing on the finishing the the toolbox tomorrow. Or at least that is at the top of the hit parade list.

accidental woodworker