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General Woodworking

Making a Rounder Plane: Part 2

Woodworking in a Tiny Shop - Sun, 03/10/2024 - 9:35pm

In Part 1, I found that using a backer piece to guide the stick through the exit of a rounding tool can make a nice difference in getting a straight stick.  After rereading a section of Roy Underhill's book "The Woodwright's Companion" on rounder planes, I tried another.

This time I tried to make a tool with the straight (cylindrical) exit hole integral to the tool.  That is, bore a hole through the body of the tool, then taper the hole most of the way through, leaving the last 1/2-5/8" untapered.

This time I used a pipe deburring tool to make the taper.

And Roy suggests bedding the iron at 30 degrees to a tangent at the top of the circle

In this second experiment in making a rounder plane, I started with a 5/8" hole through a 2" thick piece of poplar.  I tapered the hole with a pipe deburring bit.  In the above picture, if you look closely down the tapered hole, you can just barely see that the far end of the hole is still cylindrical.

OK, this is weird and unsafe ...

Here's the exit end
(can you tell this chuck of poplar was formerly used as a chopping block)

For a number of reasons, I didn't have any success with this at all.  First, the iron was hanging about 1/2" over the front end of the tool and that's very unsafe.  Second, there were issues trying to incorporate the cylindrical section of the hole into the main block of the tool.  I really wanted the entire circumference of the exit hole to be supported - that is, I didn't want the top of the exit hole to be open as seen above.

The third thing was that this taper just seemed to be too great an angle.  It's about 30-35 degrees.  This makes it much tougher to get a workpiece started.  In theory it should work - it's just quite a lot tougher to work a piece of wood through it.  And it's very easy to get the first inch or so of dowel at an extreme angle to the workpiece we're using.  I wish I'd taken a picture of that one - it was bizarre!

After this experiment, I realized that I needed to make the tool with the taper going all the way through a 2" block of wood so that when the bed is cut the entire width of a spokeshave iron would be supported.  Also it would be much easier to incorporate a cylindrical section of hole by including a backing piece with a hole the exact target diameter that was glued or screwed to the exit side of the rounder plane.  As I'll write about in Part 3, that backing piece's hole needs to be in very good alignment with the central axis of the tapered hole.

Another thing that took some fiddling was that Roy suggests the 30 degree bed angle and to use the iron bevel down.  I had to adjust the bed a few times before it was deep enough for the iron to cut anything.

So experiment 2 was a failure.  But I finally got it right in experiment 3, which I'll write about next time.  Using a 6 degree tapered reamer for the hole, using a backer piece with the proper size hole, and getting the bed and iron adjusted just right make a huge difference.

Video Link

Wunder Woods - Sun, 03/10/2024 - 7:13pm

The previous e-mail contains a link that didn’t come through. If you would like to see the video of our cabinet delivery for KBIS 2024, Las Vegas which shows our latest brass and walnut cabinets, please click the link below.

All About That Brass

Wunder Woods - Sun, 03/10/2024 - 12:04pm

It looks like brass is back in – bright, shiny, golden brass. The last few jobs we have done featured plenty of brass, and they have been for customers who I would say are “in the know” for design trends. The styles are less decorative than previous iterations, but I am surprised by how quick it is back. It seems like just yesterday we were taking out everything that resembled brass and replacing it with oil-rubbed bronze. I guess there are only so many choices, and brass isn’t a bad one.

A great example of the brass trend roaring back are a couple sets of cabinets we have done lately which featured brass, not only in the hardware choices, but also added to the cabinets. We have previously done a set in black and just recently a set in walnut. The brass inlay is a fancy touch which isn’t too hard to pull off, but there are a few tricks which we figured out through a bit of trial and error.

The first set of doors and drawer fronts set we did were made from mdf with the grooves routed on the cnc router. We used 1/8″ thick brass and super glued them in the grooves after we chiseled the corners square. It worked well, but we planned to sand the entire panel in the wide-belt sander and that’s where things went a little sideways. Even with the lightest and quickest of passes, the brass would get hot and expand and then pop out of the grooves. We were able to finish up by hand, using a block backer behind the sandpaper, but the process took quite awhile. Luckily, we were only doing a handful of doors. In case you are wondering, the orbital sander was a no-go because the brass and mdf sand at different rates and the orbital sander would leave the brass high and the mdf low, resulting in a non-flat surface. The only way to ensure a flat surface is with very even amounts of sanding through the wide-belt sander or with a stiff backer behind the sandpaper.

The panels above were made from mdf, painted black with brass inlays.

On our most recent set of walnut cabinets, I decided to step up the brass to 1/4″ x 1/4″ and it made a huge difference. We were able to put the panels through the wide-belt sander (still taking light passes) and have that be our almost finished surface. We then very, very lightly sanded with the orbital sander just to get the brass surface finished consistently, but had no issues with the brass wanting to pop out of the grooves. The structural difference between 1/8″ thick and 1/4″ thick brass and its ability to dissipate heat, both added to the success. I think it also helped to have more glue surface on the side of the brass to keep them in place.

These walnut frames also feature a brass inlay, but this time we used thicker brass.

The walnut panels were a bit easier to finish than the black set because the entire panel was only clear coated for the finish. The black set required us to tape off the brass before painting black and then clear coating the entire panel. To get a perfectly flat finish, the black set also took a few extra coats of finish with 320 sanding in between to level out the surface.

Click the link above to see the walnut panels with brass inlays at the Kitchen and Bath Industry Show.

Besides the brass hardware, brass is finding its way back in fixtures and accent pieces too. We found ourselves also working on a set of brass and walnut shelves to accompany the cabinets above. It seems like the brass is coming back and designers are not being shy about using it. Take a good look around the internet and you’ll find brass, and it will be as big as ever.

More brass. This time we used it for a shelving unit and True is using it for their refrigerator handles, also at the KBIS show.

rain, anyone?........

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 03/10/2024 - 3:54am

 

 0630
I was hoping to make a run to Gurney's today and this is what I saw I on the radar. According to it rain would be falling on my part of the universe around 1030-1100. I was going to chance it and go because it opens at 0800 and the trip is roughly 2 hours (round trip). I made the mistake of asking my wife what she thought of it. 

She subscribes to a different weather app and it said rain in my area by 0830. Canceled the trip to Gurney's and I'll be trying it again next saturday. The upside to this drama? As of 1600 it still hasn't rained here. Not even one teeny weeny droplet has fallen. I shoulda, woulda, coulda, but didn't. It might not of rained outside but it drenched my day indoors.

 packing up the planes

I blew out the screw holes and oiled them. Wrapping the 3 planes up took a lot longer than I thought it would. By the time I was done the post office was closed. The Post Office closes the lobby at 1130 and shuts the door at 1200. I finished the wrapping about 1120.

 finally arrived

I ordered these planes last year and I finally got them. A set each of #10 and #12 hollow and rounds. I paid $120 per set but that ain't the price of them no more. I would have ordered a couple more back then but I hesitated. The cost now for one set is about $370. These were made by some one working in France.

 done

The box I packed the planes in was in sad shape. Two of the corners were almost blow out and I used a lot of packing and duct tape repairing it. That didn't leave any clear area free of tape for the address label or the postage tag. I wrapped it up like a xmas present with brown craft paper.

toast

I've had this for a very long time but it is wonky to say the least. It is getting finicky and difficult to set and keep it square in two planes.

 ain't up to the task

This thin piece of stamped metal is supposed to keep the cheek square to the tablesaw. FYI, it doesn't. It also is bent and I couldn't keep the cheek square to the tablesaw. I had to check it for square after ever time I pushed it through the saw.

 the biggest problem

The cheek is not parallel to the saw blade. Totally clueless as to how this came to be. Makes it useful only as a paperweight now.

 free shipping

I bought a new tenon jig from Grizzly. I got it a couple of days ago and decided to put it through its paces today.

 bottom one from the delta jig

The hole pattern is is a dead on match. Both of the jigs look exactly the same with minor differences. The Grizzly jig has the option to attach an auxiliary wooden fence/arm to the back upright. Something that was sorely lacking on the Delta.

 looks square

Huge improvement over the Delta. Not terribly impressed with the fit and finish but for a $100 it is solidly built.

 tapered

The cheek wasn't square to the tablesaw top. My fault because I didn't check it before made the cuts. Something had slipped and I squared it up again and used the set screw to set the positive stop for 90°.

 twin tenons

No mortise to put this in as I was shooting for squareness in the tenons. They look good to the eye. They checked for square (according to Mr Starrett) every which I could do it. Now I have to find a home for it.

 hiccup

The handles on the Grizzly are wood (Delta has plastic) and the hole for it isn't threaded. Not sure if I'm going to do anything about it. I didn't use this handle on the Delta one that much. I'll call Grizzly customer service and see what shakes out with that just in case.

big gripe with this

The Delta suffers from this same hiccup IMO. You have to use an allen wrench to loosen/tighten this to move the clamp arm in/out. Wouldn't it be nice if this was tool free adjustment? I'll check McMaster-Carr for a thumb/wing nut screw to replace it.

scrap work

I'm way behind on sawing up the scraps and shit canning them. I started out using the new step stool as a saw bench and gave up. It is too low and uncomfortable. Not only did my back start to protest, my knee wasn't too happy about it neither. Switched to the taller sawhorse and gave up on that too. I'll bring all the scraps to the workbench and saw them up there. I'll do that tomorrow because the back was singing arias here.

  sanding blocks

UPS told me for 3 days in a row it was coming and then telling me it would be the next day. I want to get one more of these - the green one - and I'll be a happy man. I use 100 and 120 grit the most and I want to add 80 and 220/240. I'll just have to remember which color is which grit and stick to it.

accidental woodworker

step stool is done......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 03/09/2024 - 3:29am

 Finished the stool minus painting it by quitting time this PM. Tomorrow is supposed to be dry with rain coming in overnight. Fingers crossed that I'll be able to make a trip to Gurney's and get some 1x12 pine boards. If I don't get them on saturday I'll have to scrounge around for scraps and make something with them.

 ebonized wooden nails

Kind of wish I wasn't painting this now. I like the look of these against the 'whiteness' of the pine. The headache with the wooden nails is getting them flush with what you're putting them in. I got the ebony nails in both sides last night after dinner.

 2nd half of late night work

I glued in both legs also last night, one at a time. I let the first one set up for over an hour before I did the other leg. Used the 90 clamping squares to ensure that the legs set up square in two planes.

 into the back legs

I slightly offset the two wooden nails going into the back legs so they wouldn't be in the same grain line. I did the same on the other leg too.

 from ebony to plain birch

This is why the ebonizing failed. There is no way I know of to ebonize just the heads although there is a dark circle on the outside left.

 got lucky

The braces I did yesterday will fit - they ended up over an inch too long.

 crossing point

This piece of plywood is almost a perfect match up for the back. I used it to layout where the half lap for the X would be.

 easy peasy

Laid each brace (made sure I labeled R/L and the top/bottom) and marked the crossing point onto to each brace.

 about a 16th

I cut this proud in half and called it done. There isn't any need to go anal and get it dead nuts flush. It took me 3 attempts to cut it in half and I was done chasing that tail.

 one more to go

It was lunch time and I got one of the two last braces dry fitted. I put both of them in a shallow 1/8" dado in both legs.

 splits
Two of the braces split when I drove the screws home
 

 almost done

I had to try it out and I was able to get both feet on the step. My legs/feet didn't feel cramped nor did I experience any balance problems. I wasn't sure that I would have been able to get both feet on the short length of the step.

prepping the planes

Cleaning up the planes before I wrap and ship them out. I couldn't believe all the sawdust that was buried under the frogs. I am not going nutso on this and I am not sharpening the irons. She is getting them as is and can sharpen & fettle them to her liking. She'll receive them broken done and that will allow her to get familiar with all the bits and bobs of these 3 handplanes.

 rust

When I rehab a plane I pour EvapoRust in all the screw holes to neutralize it. The No. 9 and the No. 14 had rusty screw holes. I poured more EvapoRust in them and after dinner I'll blow it out and put some oil in them.

 ready for wrapping

I found some brown wrapping paper and I'll use that to wrap each plane and all its parts together. I should be able to ship this out in the AM. If not then I'll do it on monday.

glamour pic #1

I'm calling this done and I'll leaving it as is. Most likely I'll paint it brown because I have that paint leftover from doing the picture frame.

right side

The stool is relatively light (IMO) even though it looks heavy. This is going to be a good shop stool. One bonus for it is that it doesn't have a lot of horizontal storage real estate.

 back

I like the X brace a lot. To me it looks bridge like and says I can carry 25 long tons on the top.

 last side

I feel that I did a good job securing the legs (front and back) from being wobbly sticks ready to fall over.

 too much?

The X brace is glued and screwed to the back legs. They aren't in dadoes or notches neither. I don't like the look of this being so close to the bottom of the legs. I could saw an angle on each end and raise it up so that it is flush with the toes of the X brace. Just something I thought of while snapping the glamour pics.

 came today

From the confusing write up on Amazon I didn't have a warm and fuzzy that I would be getting two bearings but I did. I also bought a new belt because the  one on the bandsaw still has the one it came with. It looked ok but I decided to put a new one on it.

accidental woodworker

How to Refurbish a Metal Rabbet Plane

Wood and Shop - Fri, 03/08/2024 - 7:26am
How to Refurbish a Metal Rabbet Plane Bill Anderson shows how to refurbish an antique metal rabbet plane   By Joshua Farnsworth  |  Published 08 March, 2024 How to Refurbish a Metal Rabbet Plane   By Joshua Farnsworth  | Published 08

tricky glue up.......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 03/08/2024 - 3:27am

 I survived the potential glue up from Hell. I would have bet a lung that because of the angled legs the step stool would have been become kindling. I was surprised by how easy and unstressful it was. The thought of flying lessons never made it into the brain bucket. All I got glued up today was the legs and the steps. I still have to negotiate with the braces and the back legs. I don't anticipate them giving me any headaches.

 left dado

Rather than chop down the walls I used the saw. I've been using a saw more and more on dadoes and then cleaning it up with chisels and a router. I still have to chop most of the waste with a chisel but the walls are done.

 good fit

Left leg is self supporting too. It is also just a frog hair too tight and I addressed that when it came time to glue it in the dado.

 seated at the front

Drat and double, triple drat. I have a chip missing on a highly visible spot. I am going to paint this and wood putty can't be used here to fill this in.

 fitting the step

The legs aren't fully seated but this gave me the ballpark for the length of the step.

 the cutoff

I'll get the dutchman out of the angled cutoff. 

 done

The dry fit looks good. There are some gaps due to fuzzy edges but the paint will fill them in.

 back leg layout done in pencil

I knifed to the inside of the pencil lines before I chiseled the blind mortises.

look at what I found

I don't remember what I got from LV in this box but it is almost a perfect fit for the 3 planes. I hope to get these cleaned up, broken down, wrapped, and ready to go this weekend.

 outlined

I chiseled the perimeter of the mortise before I chopped the waste in between them.

 nice and clean

Chopping the perimeter I find is most helpful for keeping the chisel between them so it doesn't stray outside them.

 right one fitted

Snug fit and it is self supporting. One down and one to go.

 3/8"

I eyeballed this depth and this is what it went down to. The plan at this point was to use two #12 wood screws through the top and into each leg. With bracing this should be strong and sturdy step stool.

 an hour later

The dutchman is good enough to leave natural IMO. It is on the left side.

 guesstimating

Trying to get a rough idea for the length of the back legs. The full scale pattern says 16 1/4" without accounting for the depth of the blind mortise. This came out at 15 15/16" for both legs.

 brace stock

There is 5/8" from the back edge of the top to the back of the rear legs. I decided to make all the braces 5/8" thick. This way none of them will stick out past the top overhang.

 hate angles

The back legs aren't going to be sufficiently strong enough being in blind mortises. I could put a through tenon but I nixed that. I like the idea of a cross brace on the rear of the back legs. I like the visual look of it and I wanted to make one. Angles and me don't usually get along and I made about 12 test angles before I got it right. The X brace goes from the top of the back legs to an inch above the bottom of them.

 Lowes run

I didn't have any stock in the shop long enough to make the braces. A hop and a skip later I had three 1x4 by 6 foot pine boards for the X brace as well as the other braces.

 not in the book

I can't see in the pic how the back legs are attached in the book. I can see that there isn't an apron like this. This apron will provide some structural strength to both the front and back legs.

 kicked my arse

My biggest me-steak doing this angle dance step was assuming that both angles would be the same. That would be true if the X brace was a true square but this one isn't. The angles were close but one was a wee bit smaller than its sibling. 

 step length

I got both of the front legs dry fitted and seated so I could get a length for the step. Come glue up time the step will get glued first and then the front legs in the stopped dadoes.

 hmm......

I was basing the size of this off of the top and I should have used the step. It is less than 12" between the ID of the legs. I wanted this to be more in the 16" neighborhood. 

 like the look

I cut the back legs to a rough length adding 3/16" of inch for a fudge factor. Based on how it is sitting here on the workbench I don't think I'll be shaving much off of them.

 inside or outside

The book has the front to back side braces on the inside and the back one on the outside of the back legs. I don't like the look of the inside one not to mention having to chop mortises for them in the back legs. I think I'll go with the outside all around with glue and screws. And maybe a shallow dado to show off with.

still sane

The left leg seated ok but the right one froze on me. I had momentary flash of panic mode but I pulled the steps out and reseated both of them together. Changed lanes on screws and instead I'm using wooden nails. I wasn't overly fond of using screws, even big ones for the legs (screwing into end grain). I'll put the screws I ordered in the screw cabinet.

 back legs

I think this is a much better choice for the back legs. I keep forgetting that I have two sizes of these wooden nails to pick from.

ebony experiment

The ebonizing didn't work out. The glue squeeze out and subsequent clean up killed it. Since I'm painting this stool I will use these for the securing the back legs.

 didn't forget the step

Two each from each side should do the trick nicely.

 sigh

This came during my mini panic mode. As soon as I hit it I knew I had made a faux pas. Thinking I might do a round over on the bottom here to hide this sin.

 hmm......

I might have to redo the X brace. These are cut to fit the back legs dry fitted. That might change once the legs are glued in place. I'll deal with this when its time in the shop comes.

accidental woodworker

Making a Rounder Plane: Part 1

Woodworking in a Tiny Shop - Thu, 03/07/2024 - 7:01pm

This post is part 1 of a short series on making a rounder plane.

I've been experimenting with making a rounder plane, something I've wanted to do for quite a while.  I've made plenty of round sticks for various projects, typically using hand planes.  But there are times when I want more precision.  That is, I want more consistent cylindricity, er ... cylinderness, er ... cyl ... (oh, what the hay) roundness.

I have some homemade tapered tenon cutters from projects where a round tapered mortise receives a round tapered tenon.  I wrote about making these a few years ago.  The taper was created using a tapered reamer with 6 degree included angle.

This one, sans blade, tapers from 15/16" to 11/16"

Here's another, with iron affixed, with smaller diameter of 3/4"

You would think that if you keep working a tapered tenon through this cutter, when the stick gets to the small end of the tapered hole, it'll come out the other end a cylinder, and you'd be right.  But that cylinder is not anywhere near as nice as I would like.  The surface can be very rough and the stick might not come out straight.

There are some things you can do to help this along.  The first is to feather out the far end of the iron.  In the top-view picture below, the iron is bedded bevel up.  The arrow points to where the edge starts to angle back.  This makes a HUGE difference in the smoothness of the dowel being made.

Arrow points to where the edge starts feathering out

The second thing that helps is to have a backing piece with a hole the diameter you want your stick to be.  In the photo above, the red oak piece on the left is attached to the tapered tenon cutter with screws.  Its 3/4" hole is aligned with the conical hole in the main tool.

Here's the backing piece from a different angle

This backing piece helps form a straight stick.  In some other experiments, I created a round end on a stick, but the round end was at an angle to the rest of the stick.  Because the entrance hole to the tool is larger than the exit hole, it's easy for the stick to be aligned at an angle to the central axis of the tool.  

This entrance hole is nearly 1" diameter.

When the tool is used on a stick that is held in a vice, you can't see whether or not the stick is aligned with the central axis of the tool.  Without the backer piece, it would be especially easy to angle the beginning of the stick.

Rounding a stick that is held in a vice

But when the stick starts getting through the backer piece, it helps it stay in proper alignment.

Finally, it helps to start with a stick close to (but smaller than) the diameter of the entrance side of the tool.  This helps to keep the stick aligned with the conical axis so that you get a straight stick of consistent diameter.

Having figured out a few of these things, I made several 3/4" sticks from various woods.  They all came out at exactly 3/4" diameter (within 1/128" - the resolution of my digital caliper when in fractional inches mode).

A maple stick

Pine stick

An unknown hardwood stick
Yowzah!  And it measured 3/4" everywhere I tested it!

They all fit nice and snug in a 3/4" hole bored into a test piece.  I'm not thrilled with the surface finish that it leaves.  I can always scrape it smooth, but I'll have to be careful not to reduce the size of areas that fit into holes.

One thing to note.  When using the rounder with the backer piece, the resulting stick is a tight fit in the backer and it can make a dog-awful squeak in use.  Make sure to wax the inside of the holes to ease that a bit (and sometimes wax doesn't seem to help).

More on rounder planes coming soon.

shaker step stool.......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 03/07/2024 - 3:21am

 I don't consider this a step stool but rather a mini step ladder. However, that is what the author called it in the book so who am I to quibble about it? This AM I went to a couple of bearing shops and none of them had the bearings I needed. Thought it was strange that not one of them offered me an equivalent one of which there are a bazillion.

Also asked them all if they pressed bearings and got a no. I then asked if they knew or could recommend a machine shop that would do it for me. Got another no to that question too. The level of indifference I got blew me away. I guess customer service leaves when they don't have what you are looking for. I'll start the search for a shop because I don't won't to risk screwing up the bearings or the upper wheel.

 this ain't going to be easy

I couldn't loosen the nut on the bottom wheel at all. I hit it with PB blaster and WD40 and nada. So I stopped and searched for the parts diagram on line. There is a shaft that extends from both sides of the frame. One end is connected to a pulley and the other to the bottom wheel.

There are two bearings, one behind the bottom wheel and the other I couldn't see. There are two keys to lock the shaft on the wheel and pulley along with 2 special washers. Both of the washers are obsolete and no longer available.

 throat plate

This is still available for $40 of which I refuse to part with my $$$ to get it. I was surprised that the door latch doo hickey thing can still be had for $10. I need two of them and I'll buy them next week. I don't need them to get the saw up and running.

Decided to not change the bottom bearings. The motor pulley and the bottom wheel spin freely and take a long time to spin down. I can't feel any funny business on either side of the shaft. Both the pulley and wheel don't have any play, wobble, or vibration in them so I'm going with not replacing the two bottom bearings. I hope this doesn't bite me on the arse.

 it is sticking

Nothing makes me want to throw a temper tantrum more then something doesn't work as it should. The head sticks and binds as I slide up/down the shaft. Took it down to parade rest and find the sticking point(s).

 burrs

Both of the conical screws had burrs that I filed off. There were burrs on the inside of the head too that I sanded smooth. Put it all back together and it was improved a lot but still not perfect. I shouldn't bitch too much because it was only binding in one spot instead of the bazillion ones before I cleaned it.

 30°

Settled on 30° for the front legs. Sawed them on the knife line and I left one long to plane down to match its sibling.

awfully close

I had planned on planing these on the Lee Valley adjustable shooting board but I didn't see the need for it. There was only one spot where it wasn't square and it was only a frog hair off at that.

flushed

Used the block plane and the LV jack to flush the length and square the ends.

 step dadoes

Got confused on the layout and I almost made an bone head me-steak. Labeling is an absolute must on this because of the angled dadoes. It is way too easy for me to make a left turn into La La Land. In the end I had it right (confused the left with the right) and all is well in Disneyland again. (The left one in the pic should be flipped so the bottom left corner is at the top right.)

 for the front legs

I can't think of any other ways to connect the top of the front legs to the underside of the top. In the pic I can clearly see that they are in dadoes and I'm guessing it has to be a stopped one. 

 left one fitted

I squared off the back of the leg so it would butt up tight to the back wall of the dado. This should be a good strong connection. I'll be putting the back legs in a blind mortises.

wee bit snug

This is what I was shooting for. I want this connection to be snug because a lot of the strength of the joint is relying on the glue. A good fit between the leg and dado is needed here.

 #12 FH screw

I wanted #12 Black oxide screws but I didn't have any. I got some on order from Blacksmith bolt. Still mulling over how to employ the screws. I think a couple from the top step into the leg is a definite. I would like to get at least one from the bottom into the top but I don't think that will happen. I only have about a 1/2" of meat between the top of the log and the top of the top step.

3 dadoes down and 3 to go. I'll finish those up before lunch tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

A Visit To Doyle Auctioneers & Appraisers

Tools For Working Wood - Wed, 03/06/2024 - 4:00am
Set of Four Roberto Lazzeroni for Ceccotti Collezioni Fruitwood Dining ArmchairsSet of Four Roberto Lazzeroni for Ceccotti Collezioni Fruitwood Dining Armchairs, Estimate: $700 - $1,000, along with two Jean Prouve for Vitra Metal and Plywood "Standard" Chairs, estimate: $700 - $1,000

This past weekend Sally and I visited Doyle Auction Houses to see their "Doyle and Design" show. Doyle, whose main branch is on the Upper East Side of Manhattan, specializes in furniture, jewelry, decorative art and artwork. A lot of their customers are dealers, and a lot of the furniture they sell on a fairly regular basis is made by famous makers, but not in pristine condition. While I love going to fancy auction houses like Christie's and seeing a $50,000 chair, it's also fun and instructive to go to Doyle and see iconic, semi-iconic and interesting workday furniture that you can actually envisioning using in a home. This sort of stuff is found at Doyle on a regular basis. Prices usually range from what I will term "a lot more expensive than IKEA" to the far less expensive than what solid, well-made furniture costs new.

There are auction houses like this all over the country that sell normal, working stuff that is designed for use, not collections. And maybe that's really the executive summary here. Doyle specializes in usable items rather than collectibles. (Although to be fair some of the stuff is collectible, and especially if it had a little TLC it would be even more collectible). This is why prices at Doyle's are lower than you'd find at Christie's or Sotheby's. Dealers routinely shop here for stuff that they are going to resell at great markup, possibly after some restoration. For example, the set of four Roberto Lazzeroni chairs with arms have an estimate of $700 to $1,000 for the set. A set of table and eight chairs sold on 1stdibs for $11,000. Now eight of anything gets a premium. But if you're looking for modern furniture this could be a pretty good deal. The Jean Prouve chairs, with the estimate of $700 - $1,000 for the pair, cost over $1000 each new on Design Within Reach and other sites. I asked one of the Doyle reps about their pricing and he said if Doyle has previously sold similar items, the estimates take the history into account. But for everything else, they use an estimate of 10% to 15% of what a new copy would go for. Of course, as long as they have at least two bidders, the market will figure it out. My guess is that the set of Lazzeroni chairs will go for more than the estimate.

Pair of Mira Nakashima Walnut Mira StoolsPair of Mira Nakashima Walnut Mira Stools, estimate: $2,000 - $4,000

This particular auction also had pieces by Nakashima, his daughter Mira, Wharton Esherick, Tiffany, Roycroft, and others.
We were here for the same reason we go to a lot of auctions - because here we can open the drawers, sit in the chairs, and learn about design. Whether or not you're planning to build furniture, these mid-priced auction houses are a really wonderful place to get quality stuff at an affordable price. Just a note: what is usually posted on an auctioneer's website after an auction is the hammer price - the price the auctioneer calls out at the auction and says "Sold!" Lots of auctions have buyer's premiums, sales tax, etc. And in the case of large pieces of furniture, there may be some hassle as you figure out how to get it home.

I think my favorite piece was the Quistgaard desk (below). I sat in the Mira Nakashima stools and thought them very comfortable - perfect for a home bar or kitchen island.

 $2Silvio Cavatorta Chromed Metal and Walnut Sideboard 1950s. Estimate: $2,000 - $4,000. Eames Chairs, Estimate: $1,500 - $2,500

 $1Jens Quistgaard for Peter Lovig Nielsen Rosewood Flip Top Partner's Desk. Estimate: $1,000 - $2,000

good output today........

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 03/06/2024 - 3:17am

 I am not out of the woods with the head cold yet but I am feeling better than yesterday. I got a good days work in the shop today and I raised a sweat. I got most of everything I wanted to accomplish done and I'll finish the other doo dads tomorrow or the day after or.....

 it is dry

The flat black paint is oil based and it usually takes 24 hrs for it be dry to recoat. After I get this last coat of black on I'll have to touch up where I got black on the brown.

 time to fix this

I have to pony up and get this done. I will need this to resaw the pine to the thicknesses I need for projects #2 & #3. I'm not sure how to do it but I have a lot of wrenches and other tools so at least it will look like I know what I'm doing. 

these are going bye-bye

I am giving these 3 planes away to a young aspiring woodworker. Someone else is mentoring her and these 3 will be a good hand plane foundation for her.

 nope

This is the smallest box I could get from UPS to ship the planes in. I need less than half of it. Changed lanes on this and I'll be making a wooden box to ship them in. I have a higher warm and fuzzy with a wooden box vice a cardboard one with bubble wrapped tools.

 Lee Valley sharpening jig

Finally got to road test this with the iron from my #7 handplane. Securing the iron in the jig was easy and straightforward. The angle setting gizmo bar thing was dumb simple to set also.

 didn't like it

It was awkward to get a grip on this and move it up and down the runway. All you have to grab is the iron and I couldn't find a way to do that and push & pull. I never got a sense of what was happening at the bevel end of the iron. Took the iron out and sharpened it on the Lie Nielsen honing guide.

 flattening step stool stock

Step one was getting a reference face flat, straight, and twist free. Step two was running a gauge line on the stock. Step three was  planing a chamfer to just above the gauge line.

 step four

Run the #6 from left to right down the stock at an angle.

 step five

Run the #6 from right to left down the stock at an angle. I repeat this as necessary until I see the chips are the full width of the board.

 step six

I go straight across the board L to R then R to L. I keep at this until I get a wee bit above the gauge lines. I also pay close attention to my chips - ensuring that they are the full width of the stock.

 getting close

I try to stay above the gauge line because the board is scalloped. Flattening them out could bring me below the gauge line if I am too close to it.

step seven

I run the #6 from end to end with the grain. This knocks down the cross grain scallops. I keep a close eye on the gauge line on this step.

 step eight

Flattening and smoothing to the gauge line with the #7. It might be quicker with a jack but I prefer to use the #7 here. I use the #7 on even smaller  sized stock.

 step nine

Fine adjustments are done with a #3, a #4, or  a 4 1/2. It depends upon the size of the stock - mostly in the length.

Felt so much different doing this stock prep today then yesterday. No aches and pains and not feeling bone tired weary. This is the only step for the stool and I next did the back legs and by the second one I was sweating. It actually felt good doing this today.

wash, rinse, and repeat

Had two back legs and the two front legs to thickness to 1".

 close

I am not going nutso trying to get all these pieces the exact same thickness. I am going to the gauge line and no more. The top, back legs, and the step are all within a frog hair of each other. That is good enough for this because none of these will be married to each other or used as a reference for another one.

 easy peasy

What I thought was going to be a nightmare ride into Hell and back, was a cake walk. I unscrewed a nut and the wheel came off with gentle persuasion from a pry bar. I thought I would need a bearing puller to get the wheel off.

There are two 6202Z bearings separated by a spacer in this wheel. The spacer is fine with no scoring or evidence of galling. However, both bearings are toast. I'm deaf and I could hear as well as feel the bearings grinding on each other as I turned them.

 looks to be ok

This is what I thought was the problem with the saw. The shaft is in good condition with one teeny weeny line of scoring but that is it. It doesn't appear to be bent in the slightest considering the force that is exerted on it.

 pulled it off

The pivot arm swings freely with zero binding. I would sure hate to have to replace this. I got this saw in 1984 so the bearings lasted 40 years and I know now how to replace them if they decide to go south on me again.

There is a shop 3 miles from my house that sells bearings and I'll get them tomorrow in the AM. A hiccup comes from finding someone to press these bearings out and press the new ones in. This is something I have never done before and I don't want this to be my first attempt. Fingers crossed I can find someone to do it.

 FYI good habit

Rather the have all the screws and nuts etc in a plastic container I put them all back in their respective holes. I won't lose or forget them and I know this is where they belong in the big scheme of 14" bandsaws. I'll be using my new shop vac to clean this up. Might be a good idea to replace the lower wheel bearing(s) too.

 step stool

From R to L - top, step, front legs, and the back legs. It was pass quitting time so I didn't get around to making a full scale drawing the front legs at 30°. I think I'll make this a little wider than a step stool is. I am leaning in the neighborhood of a 18" side to side and it should be doable with all the stock being 1" thick except for the braces which will be 3/4".

accidental woodworker

came up with 3.......

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 03/05/2024 - 2:53am

 Being sick sucks pond scum through a sipper straw. That was evident today during my time in the shop. The sinus heartaches have ramped up and I've already been through one box of snot rags and I'm a third of the way through the second one. The sore throat hasn't come back and the chest congestion seems better. But as one symptom abates another clamors for attention. At least I slept better last night than the previous one.

I took some outdated sinus medication last night and it worked. Bought some fresh sinus meds today and it was like I didn't take any at all. I was shocked by the cost of cold meds at CVS this AM. My first choice for sinus meds was $39.98 and the one I bought was $13. I ain't paying no more and I'll just ride it out from here.

 flat black

ACE had gloss but I decided to go with flat black because the brown is flat too. I will be putting a couple of coats of shellac on the frame and that will add some sheen to it. The main reason for applying the shellac is it is easier to clean dust off it.

 needs one more

I'm glad I chose flat black for the moldings. I think it looks better with the brown. The moldings being flat black are more than enough to have them stand out from the brown portion of the frame.

 the next 3 come from this

I have a couple of books by this author. One of the other ones is on colonial furniture and I've had that one for bazillion years.

 the first one

I don't know what the attraction is I have for shaker step things. I have made close to a dozen of them and I'll add this one. There is only a pic of this with no measurements or a parts drawing of it. I think I have enough scraps in the shop to whack this out.

 projects 2 & 3

The one on the left I made about 15 years ago (?). I made this for daughter #1 and she still has it. It was made before I found Paul Sellers and there were changes made to the original. It turned out functional but I know I can do better today. I will try to follow the original but this isn't going to be a exact reproduction.

The right one was added to the queue because I couldn't chose just one of them to do. Again, I will try to follow the original but I know there will be changes and I haven't even started either one.

 step stool top

This stock is 1 3/8" which I think is too thick. The first step to getting it thinned down to 1" is establishing a reference face and edge. Planing one face flat, straight, and twist free was horrendous. Note to self - you shouldn't do this while you are sick.

It took me much longer than I thought it would to do this. I didn't get winded or out of breath but rather it tired me out way to quickly. 

 #6 fore plane

This is the only bench plane I have with a cambered iron and I only use it to hog a lot of wood off quickly. I first went down the board at a diagonal both ways and then straight across until I got close to the gauge lines.

I didn't go full blown anal trying to get the two parts for the top withing +/- 2 atoms of each other. I left some to do the final smoothing after it gets out of the clamps.

top glued and cooking

The top is oversized in the length. I'll saw it to final length after this comes out of the clamps.

 1st full scale

I seldom do full scale drawings or any drawings of projects at all. I found that they are almost essential for doing step stools of this design. The full scale drawing yields the length of the two front outside legs which are the hardest ones to determine. I am not in love with the angle of the legs. I think it is too close to vertical which makes the step stool potentially unstable.

The angle on the legs is 22° and I am going to increase it to between 30° and 35°. Doing that will increase the slope of the front legs giving it a wider footprint. That will happen in the AM because all the planing work worn me out. I felt like a wrung dish rag at this point.

 all the step stool scraps

The long one will give up the two front legs and the two back legs are leaning on it. All 3 are 1 3/8" thick and I'll be thinning them down to 1". The board in the middle will be the step (another one to thin to 1") and the 3 to the right of it will become the bracing. Projects 2 & 3 will come from pine from Gurney's. I'm hoping to get up there this saturday but the weather isn't looking like it will cooperate.

accidental woodworker

Carving Practice

JKM Woodworking - Mon, 03/04/2024 - 8:28pm

Since I committed to carving some table aprons I figured I should practice. For this I made a piece from Lora Irish’s book Relief Carving Workshop.

Before getting to that, I dug out my older practice pieces and took pictures to share. These are from Mary May Carving online lessons. The first eight or so lessons are free. I recommend them.

whale?

Here is the very first carving, a whale. Or zooplankton. Definitely aquatic.

donut

Next we have a donut, a lesson in reading the grain.

flower

A simple flower. Things are starting to look better!

camellia

Finally a camellia. This and the others were recommended to be in basswood. I did not have basswood and used pine.

Incised G L
Incised J W

After these beginner lessons I did a few projects with incised lettering. There are many teachers and methods; I used this video lesson from David Reilly. I bought a basswood plaque from Michael’s and cut it in half, making two boards for my two children. Another example of lettering is the sliding door shelf I made for my daughter.

basswood practice board, 2″ squares

That brings us to the present, and Lora Irish’s practice board. She recommended a piece 11 x 14. I had a 5″ board so was able to glue up a board about 10 x 13. The board was then divided into a grid of squares. The first 22 squares were simple carvings, and the remaining three were larger and more complex. As a side note, basswood really is a pleasant wood to work with. If you want a beginner friendly wood for sawing and planing, basswood is it.

in progress

A few of the carvings look similar because the instructions were like “On this square try something with a knife. On the next square try the same thing with a v-gouge.” That is one difference between Mary May and Lora Irish. Mary May uses gouges for everything whereas Lora Irish frequently uses a knife. I do not have a carving knife so used gouges for everything.

workholding

In the past I fastened the workpiece to a corner of the bench with a holdfast, having to reposition frequently. For this piece I was able to place it against my shooting board and did not use clamps or holdfasts at all.

complete

I think I do okay when following lessons, but for my project I will be trying something new. I am looking for clipart-type images and adapting them for carving.

Categories: General Woodworking

cold/flu day II........

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 03/04/2024 - 4:00am

 Feeling like crappola day two. Didn't sleep at all last night in spite of me feeling dead tired when I hopped into the rack. Tossed and turned and made a record number of toilet trot races. Other than feeling blah raised to the nth power, I'm doing ok I guess. I have taken 4 home covid 19 tests and so far they were all negative. With an upsurge in it lately I'm not sure what to do about it. I'll call the VA on monday and see if I should get a more reliable test.

I did and didn't want to go to the shop today. The urge to be in it didn't match getting my butt in gear and doing any woodworking. I did manage to get the frame painted but that was it. 

I spent most of the morning thinking of and searching my books for something to make next. I have to be careful in what I choose because I don't have the room for anything much bigger than a breadbox. I didn't make it to Gurney's on saturday due to rain but maybe next saturday I'll get there. Regardless of what I pick I'll need the pine from Gurney's to make it.

 frame prep

The wood filler I used yesterday set up and got hard. I sanded the frame up to 150 and declared it ready to paint.

 2 coats

I waited 5 hours between coats - the can said recoat in 2. I hit another road block with the frame. All the minwax wood putty I used filling in the nail holes is gone. Noticed that when I was putting on the second coat. I'll have to refill, sand, and paint them again.

toast

Decided to go with gloss enamel black but I won't be using this. There is a 1/4" thick skin on what paint is left in the can. I'll have to make a road trip to ACE in the AM and get another can. I will be wearing mask too.

accidental woodworker

Welcome ( back ) to Cape Breton

The Unplugged Woodshop - Sun, 03/03/2024 - 3:08pm

What’s all the news?

We’ve relocated to the East Coast!

Cape Breton Island to be specific…

After eight amazing years of UW Toronto, it was time to come home. Back to the Coast where our school will now run on a more seasonal basis.

We’ll take these next few months to get things setup, but we’ve just scheduled our first week long box making course for the Fall of 2024 !

You can find all of the details here: It Starts With a Box.

Once we get settled into our new location, we’ll also be offering evening and weekend class options for local students as well as our popular Saturday Bootcamps. We’ll update the classes page as we schedule.

If you can’t make it out to the East Coast, check out our online membership option where you’ll find over 1100 episodes of hand tool woodworking!

From furniture and cabinet design and making, to hand tool techniques. We’ve made everything from chairs to guitars, hand tools and art installations.

Thanks for all of the interest and support through the years and I hope you’ll join me in Cape Breton.

Make everyday a masterpiece!

The post Welcome ( back ) to Cape Breton appeared first on The Unplugged Woodshop.

Cocobolo tonewood for sale

A Luthiers Blog - Sun, 03/03/2024 - 7:36am

Cocobolo tonewood for sale

I’m thinning out my tonewood collection and offering two sets (back and sides) of wonderful Cocobolo for sale. I’ve made a number of great sounding mandolins from similar wood and I’m sure it would be suitable for other smaller instruments too.

I’ve had this wood in my humidity-controlled workshop for many years, so it’s ready to use.

I originally purchased it from Andy at Prime Timbers and if you know of him, you’ll know that you won’t find better quality or better prepared wood anywhere.

Beautiful, quarter sawn wood, ranging from warm orange to rich brown: can only be described as master grade!


Set #1

 

Back (each piece) 380 x 165 tapering to 155mm. 4mm thickness

Sides (each piece) 610 x 100 tapering to 92mm. 4mm thickness

 

Set #2

Back (each piece) 380 x 155mm. 4mm thickness

Sides (each piece) 620 x 92mm. 4mm thickness

 

I’d like £100 per set or £180 for both, plus whatever the shipping is. I can only ship this within the UK.

 If you’re interested, you can find my email address here and I can send you some more photos too.

Thanks Gary.

cold and flu season......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 03/03/2024 - 3:34am

 I've been on the edge of a cold/flu for about a week now. It has slowly been ramping up the symptoms and I think I'm on the cusp on. I don't feel like a total shit bag but I'm awfully close to it. I've had a sore throat for 3 days and this AM I over slept and didn't roll out of the rack until 0645. Yesterday's blog didn't get posted until after 0700. 

I went to the shop this AM and I didn't exactly set the world on fire. I didn't feel like doing anything but I did stay and piddle for a wee while. It sucks because I can't take any cold/flu meds because of the drugs I'm on. The doc said I can take no more than 6 tylenol a day. At least that is taking the edge off the sore throat. Hopefully I only have 5-7 days to deal with this annoyance.

 nail filled

This minwax wood putty isn't giving me a warm and fuzzy. This has had over 16 hours to dry and it still wasn't 100% yet this AM. Shop conditions aren't that bad as it was 61F which should be high enough to set it. It seemed the friction from sanding it hardened it more than the hours waiting for it.

 flush

Flushed the back of the molding flush with the back of the frame. 

 more heartaches

I scraped all the minwax wood putty off the front of the frame. This face has its share of dings and scratches with a couple of divots. I really wanted to be done with all this prep work but I'll have to slog my way through it. Shooting for painting this tomorrow, sick or not.

 outside measurement

The four sides of the frame are dead on 36". The moldings added 1 5/8" to the width of the sides.

 hmm......

This one is going to bite me on the arse. The picture is 30" by about 29 3/8". I had my fingers crossed that it would fit in the inside frame on the back.

 nope

I'm about an 1/8" too much on the long leg of the painting. I had already accounted for burying part of the painting with the frame and the matting. I guess I'll be adding a wee bit more. 

Because of this me-steak I might forgo the matting and just put the painting in the frame. I won't have to pay to have that done.

 short sides

Because the frame is square (and the painting isn't) it won't matter how it goes in it. I will still have to cut off some of the painting to get it to fit.

 picked a paint

Went to my neighborhood paint shop and got the paint. Decided to paint the moldings black and the flat area between them brown. I kept running the other colors through my brain bucket and I couldn't reconcile them. Brown and black to my eye doesn't clash or take away from the painting. 

I bought some new wood filler for the dings and divots, etc. I'll paint the entire frame brown and use that as a primer. After that is dry I'll do the moldings black. I have black oil enamel but the brown is a mat color. That should make for a contrast between those two colors. 

 chip missing

I started on this after lunch and 3 hours later it was still tacky. The plan is to get this dry and sanded so I can paint tomorrow. The sun will still come up if not done today.

accidental woodworker

One chair for sale, one chair class opening

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Sat, 03/02/2024 - 7:31am

Two brief things about chairs.

Joel Paul helping assembly

First is an opening just came up this week in the only (thus-far) JA chair class I have scheduled for this year. April 8-13 at Pete Galbert’s shop in Rollinsford, NH. Joel Paul will once again be there to keep me on track – it’s a great week and off you go with your own Jennie Alexander chair at the end. If you can make it, details are here – https://www.petergalbert.com/schedule/2020/7/13/make-a-chair-from-a-tree-with-peter-follansbee-8brcj-7b62n-xafjp-mglkm

The other chair item for today is one I have for sale – not a JA chair (I’m starting some of those this coming week) – but one of my German/Swiss-style brettstuhls – I finished this one last week and am on the finishing touches of the video showing how I made it –

PF brettstuhl, Feb 2024. Walnut & hickory

Height overall is 32 3/4” and seat height is 17 1/4”. The width across the front of the seat is 17 3/4”, overall seat depth is 15 1/2” and the part you actually sit on is 13 1/4”. Price is $1,800 including shipping in US. I’ll box it up with the back removed – so some simple assembly required. Put the back in its mortises, and tap in two wedges. Photo/video instructions included. You must be able to count to two. If you’re interested in purchasing the chair email me at Peterfollansbee7@gmail.com

big picture frame pt II.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 03/02/2024 - 4:02am

 All the woodworking on the frame is done. I don't consider the final sanding woodworking which is what is left to do before painting. Haven't decided what colors to use yet but I have an idea on two. The next headache after that decision is carved in stone is where to buy the paint. I have lots of time to figure it out.

 out of the clamps

This frame is an inch shy of being 3 foot on each side. That makes for an awkward and big ass thing to maneuver around the shop. 

 eyeballed all four

The frame looked good on all four sides. For the most part they appeared to be straight with no dips, bows, cups or other wonkiness. I laid it on the flatest part of the cellar deck and it didn't rock excessively. I'm going with my eye that this frame is good enough to display the picture that will go in it.

 soft pine

This was the only corner of the frame that had any clamp rosebuds (2 of them). I'll definitely fill them in before painting. Unfilled they will stick out like a neon light.

 flushing the corners

This was frustrating planing the four corners flush on both sides. The difficulty was trying to clamp it and having one side free to plane end to end. 

didn't work

I wanted to try and assemble the inside and outside moldings off the miter box. The 45s it saws are very good but the faces are rough. The biggest headache was keeping the molding stationary when I sawed them. I ended up rough cutting them to length on the miter box and shooting them to finished length with a plane.

 PITA

Started on the left and worked my all around. The first 3 stayed in place by themselves. Here I was fitting the last one.

 dry fit

The inside moldings fit good with no gaps at any of the miters. I almost gave them flying lessons. They were an absolute nightmare to install. I used glue and a brad nailer but it didn't go as planned. I had to pull the first one I did off because it wasn't flush with the back of the frame. I sorted that out without anything getting airborne. Something as simple as that and it kicked my arse all around the shop.

 Washed, rinsed, and repeated the same dance steps for the outside moldings. Except this time I didn't have to remove any. The outside ones went on smoothly and stress free.

 came quick

Wasn't expecting this because I just ordered it on tuesday. I'll mix up a batch and try it out on the jewelry box next week.

 done

Glad that I have the moldings behind me now. The next batter is the inside frame on the back to hold the glass, matting, picture, and backing.

 glue and nails

The back frame is inset from the edge a 1/4". It is 1/2" thick and 3/4" high. 

 done 

Flushed the moldings to the back with the block plane. I had to trim the inside back frame on the lower left and upper right corners. The horizontals were a few frog hairs past the verticals.

 woodworking is done

I set all the nails and filled them with wood putty. The final sanding will include flushing the wood putty and a few blowouts. Two the miters lost some chips on the toes and filling them in is going to be tricky.

 the pic

I need to pick two colors for the frame that are complimentary to the pic. I also have to take into consideration the color of the matting. As of now my two colors are blue for the moldings and some shade of white for the real estate between the two moldings. The matting will be an off white color too.

accidental woodworker

big picture frame.......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 03/01/2024 - 2:57am

 Yesterday was dreary with dark clouds and rain falling off and on all day. That sucked but the the temp stayed in the middle 50's F (11-13C). Today was the exact opposite. Lots of sun and billowy white clouds. However, the temp took a noise dive with the high getting up to 38F (3.3C). That wasn't so bad but the wind was blowing out of the northwest at a good clip and it was cold and bone chilling. Made the walk a wee bit uncomfortable especially so because I forgot my gloves. Tomorrow is supposed to be sunny again and a bit warmer.

 tenon D (last one)

I came back to the shop last night and glued the veneer on the tenon just in case. Turns out that I didn't need it but if I had I didn't have to wait for it to cook.

 too tight

Took me quite a few dance steps before I got this final bridle joint fitted.

 fitted and self supporting

The next batter was a dry fit of all four corners.

 looks good

It is a 1/8" off on the diagonals and the lower right corner wasn't square. The left stile ran outboard a wee bit. The problem was two of the clamps weren't clear of the bridle joint. Once I adjusted the clamps to clear that the diagonals came in dead on and Mr Starrett said all four corners were square. Of the two I rely on the diagonals first and foremost.

 C cramps

When I first started woodworking I couldn't afford to buy F or bar clamps. C cramps (clamps) were abundant in the yard sales I went to. I doubt I paid more than a dollar for any of these. I think the last time I used them was when I lived in Westerly and that was many, many, many moons ago. Used them here because the quick grips were up to the task for closing up the bridle joint.

 closed shut

The two outside edges of the bridle joint are tight. I might not have to use any wood putty on this.

 one more

The dark line is pencil and although it looks like there is a gap here there isn't. I would have snapped pics of the last two but this frame is heavy and way to awkward to flip 180 with all the clamps on it.

another practice run

I was going to do just one bridle joint but nixed it. I think doing all four to make a frame is a better practice. Laid it out and I checked that I could use the LN carcass saw for this.

 1/4" chisel

Not only was this chisel dull, there was a chip out of one corner. Used my Lee Valley side clamp guide to sharpen it. It wouldn't fit in the LN honing guide which I use to sharpen my toys. The chisel was too far down into the guide and it was trying to clamp on the roundish part of it at the ferrule. It clamped on it but it and the chisel was skewed and wasn't flat and square to the stone.

 needed some router help

Initially I was going to try and do this so the joint went together off the saw. I'm not quite ready for that yet. Initially I was but my first saw cut was off the line too much so I continued on that way.

 second one

This was the second one I fitted. The tenon is a few frog hairs too thin. It is a slip fit and has some friction but I've done better. Oddly it was self supporting too.

 the first one

 The fit looks better but the tenon cheeks look like a dirt road after a heavy rain. On the plus side it was self supporting also.

 #3

Getting better on the fit as I was resisting the urge to do one more swipe. I did very little clean up on the slot mortises. I relied 99.9% trimming the tenon to fit it.

 #4

I think this was the best one of the four. Not sure if I would leave this natural but I wouldn't hesitate to paint it. I had much better control of the LN carcass saw then I did with the sash saw. I think after a few more of these I'll try to do one off the saw.

 unexpected

The frame stayed together when I held it up one at a time on all four sides. Haven't decided yet on whether or not to glue it or to leave it dry. Either way I'll put it with my other practice pieces for future comparison.

for the picture frame

Because of the bridle joint I don't want to risk trying to mold a profile on the outside edges. Ran a bead and I planed away the quirk or extended it. Depends upon how you view the glass - is it half empty or half full?

 time to try them out

The plan here was to put the 3/8" bead on the outside edge and the 1/4" bead on the inside edge. I am also thinking of painting the frame one color and the bead details a different color.

 don't like it

I thought the smaller bead on the inside would look good but to my eye it looks like it shrunk. Switched lanes and I will use the 3/8" bead on both edges.

 done

Did all the ripping to size of these on the tablesaw. I had made a run to Lowes and I bought two 1x4s and I got 4 moldings out of each one. I'll play some more with these tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

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