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We have a large oak tree in our front yard, and while we have attempted to put up several different kinds of tree swings for the children over the years, this tire swing has been by far the best. The children have dubbed it the Best Tire Swing Ever.
It works best with two or three children, though one child can lay across the middle of the swing, and I have found up to five clinging to it at one time. It has become something of a magnet for neighborhood children. Constructing this tire swing was simple, and my only regret is that I didn’t put up something like this sooner.
For this tutorial, I took the pictures as I was replacing some worn-out parts on the original swing, so some of the parts will look old and others will look new. As with any outdoor play equipment, you should routinely check for wear and damage, and replace worn parts where necessary.
Constructing the Swing: From the Bottom Up
Every tire swing begins with a tire. I recommend a large tire if you can find one. A 15″ rim diameter works really well, although a 14″ is acceptable. If you don’t happen to have an old tire laying around your garage, it’s easy enough to get one. (If there is a creek nearby, there’s probably a tire or two half-submerged in it–and if your neighbors routinely refer to it as a “crik,” it definitely has tires in it.)
Once you have your tire, decide which side will be the top of the swing. Drill three 1/4″ equidistant holes in the sidewall of the tire for tie-in points. You can do some fancy geometry to locate the holes, but I just eyeballed the locations. Now flip the tire over, and in the opposite sidewall, drill six or more 1/4″ holes so that rainwater won’t collect in the tire. Spin the drill bit in each hole for a couple seconds while you move the drill up and down, just to make sure the drainage holes don’t close back up.
Now it’s time to get some hardware. At each of the three tie-in points, you need an assembly like this:
For each of your three chains, you need:
- One stainless-steel eye bolt (I used a 1/4″ diameter bolt)
- Two regular washers
- One fender washer
- One stop-nut
- One quick-link.
If you’re not familiar with these terms, the sales associate at your local hardware store can probably help you. (But for the record, a stop-nut is a regular steel nut with a nylon insert, which prevents the nut from loosening. A fender-washer is an extra-wide washer.) Although the bolt should be stainless steel, the rest of the hardware doesn’t have to be. The tire protects it from the weather–but you can get all stainless hardware if you prefer.
The eye bolt will insert into the hole in the tire. There should be one regular washer on the top of the tire. Underneath, there should be the fender washer, the regular washer, and the stop-nut. Hold the top of the eye bolt with pliers and tighten the nut with a ratchet equipped with a deep-well socket.
Next, you need the chain. For chain, we used swing-set chain with plastic coating. This keeps little fingers from getting pinched and clothes from getting caught. Each chain is about 4′ long, so you will need 12′ total. But don’t trust the hardware store’s measurement. Make sure each chain has exactly the same number of links in it, or the swing will sit crooked.
The quick-link attaches the eye-bolt to the chain. When you hang up the swing, be sure to orient the quick-link as you see above. The bolt on the link should be tightened downward, not upward. Otherwise, gravity will eventually loosen the nut and open the link. So to repeat a saying that I learned from some rock climbers, screw down so you don’t screw up.
Up at the other end of the chains, you will need to gather them into a single tie-in point. I used a device called a shackle:
Double-check that your chains are not twisted. It helps to have a helper to hold the three chains in place while you attach the shackle. Use pliers to tighten down the shackle’s bolt as much as you can.
At this point, you could tie the rope directly to the shackle and skip the next piece of hardware. However, I find it very helpful to have a quick way to take the swing down if necessary. (We always take it down when we go on vacation, for example.) Also, it’s a lot easier to tie a knot in a thick rope without the weight of the whole swing pulling down on it.
I got the biggest stainless-steel snap-link (like a carabiner) that I could find at the home center. The shackle can easily slip into the snap-link. (Or, that’s how I had originally designed the swing. But with our swing, I found that the rope I had hung was about a foot too short, so I added a short length of chain between the shackle and the snap-link.) The snap-link hangs from the rope and ties in to the shackle.
Now about the rope. The rope is probably the part of the swing most vulnerable to damage, so do not skimp on the rope. We got the thickest braided-nylon rope that our home-center carried. It think it’s about 7/8″ in diameter. I repeat, do NOT skimp on rope! Cheap, coated rope will quickly fray and break.
I can’t tell you how much to get, but I will tell you to get a couple feet more than you think you will need. Remember that the knot at the bottom could take as much as a foot and a half, and the knot at the top (plus what goes around the tree branch) could take 2′-3′, depending on the size of the branch. So measure the distance between the top of your swing chains and the branch and add 3′-4′. The rope may also stretch a bit with use, so err on hanging the swing a little high at first. I found that hanging the swing 2′ off the ground was about right.
You’ll need to tie knots in each end of the rope. (If you’re a sailor or a Boy Scout, you can ignore this section about knots.) There are a number of different knots that are appropriate for this application, but you need a knot that makes a non-tightening loop. I used a very simple “overhand knot on a bight.” It’s extremely easy to tie. YouTube is your friend. Tie the knot on both ends of the rope.
Now you need to get the rope around the overhead tree branch. Unless you have a very tall ladder, getting the rope over the branch can be… um… interesting. I ended up tying the rope to the end of a long, thin stick and throwing the stick over the branch javelin-style. It only took me four or five tries! I will not be competing in the javelin throw in any upcoming track-and-field events anytime soon, I assure you.
The good news is that you don’t have to tie the rope around the tree branch. Since you have tied your overhand-knot-on-a-bight onto the end, just get the rope up over the branch. Slip one end of the rope through the loop, and pull the rope until the rope is secure, as you see above. Not only does this save you the trouble of having to tie a knot way up in a tree, but it also won’t cut off the tree branch’s circulation.
The Right Tree
Now a word about trees and tree branches. Choosing the right location for your tire swing is important for both maximum fun AND safety. First, be sure you are hanging your tire swing from a live branch–one that has lots of healthy-looking leaves on it–not from a dead one. From the ground, it’s not always easy to spot the difference between a live and a dead branch unless you look carefully.
Second, the branch should be thick. Branches do look thinner from the ground than they actually are, but on balance, choose a very stout-looking branch. I think our swing is hanging from a branch that is over 8″ in diameter by my estimate. Finally, be sure your swing is not too close to the tree’s trunk, or to any other obstacles that the swing might hit. You can hang this kind of swing on a really high branch, so measure out your clearance around the swing. Hang the swing at least as far from the tree’s trunk (or other obstacles) as the branch is from the ground. So if the branch you’re hanging the swing from is, say, 12′ in the air, then you should hang the swing at least 12′ away from the trunk. This will allow you to give your kids monster pushes, which they will love!
In my opinion, the higher the branch from which you are swinging, the more fun you will have–to a point. If you go really high, say over 25′ in the air, the swing becomes difficult to push. Ours is hanging from a branch that is about 16′ in the air, which is just about ideal.
Now it’s time to hang up your swing.
Of course, the children will want to test it out.
Yes, this tire swing earns the Schuler Kids’ Seal of Approval!
**Disclaimer: I have done my best to ensure safety by using appropriate hardware and construction materials in this project. But because I can’t go to the hardware store with you or help you pick out a tree branch, it is your responsibility to ensure that anything you build according to these instructions is strong and safe. Test everything with your own weight before letting kids onto new equipment. Furthermore, be aware that outdoor play equipment such as a tire swing does pose inherent dangers to all users, and your kids may suffer falls, bumps, and bruises (not to mention fights over whose turn it is to ride the swing and whose turn it is to push). If you cannot accept such risks for your kids, do not put up outdoor play equipment. Risks can be reduced (though not eliminated) by supervising your kids at play, regularly inspecting the equipment for damage, and using the strongest construction materials available.
Tagged: hardware, rope, swing, tire, tire swing, tireswing, tree swing
As a professional teacher, I own a lot of dress slacks. Until recently, I had them hanging on a variety of different hangers, most of which sagged and left unsightly wrinkles on each leg. There are a lot of effective ways to hang up a pair of slacks without wrinkling them, but most good hangers are expensive and hog valuable space on the rack. My new pants hangers each cost approximately 75 cents took under five minutes to make.
Making them requires only a few simple woodworking tools and almost no skill. Here’s how I did it.
I began with some old wire hangers that came from the dry cleaner. Such hangers are easy to find. These are have a cardboard tube that each end of the wire sticks into.
I had most of my slacks hanging on hangers like these. They worked for a while, until the cardboard began to sag and finally break in the middle.
I had a lot of them.
You could use regular wire coat hangers for this project just as easily, but I had these ready to hand.
The first step is to use wire cutters to snip off the lower wire close to each end. I cut the wire about 3/4″ from each end, but the exact length isn’t critical.
I also clipped the wire at an angle so as to leave a sharp point. That will be very helpful later when it comes time to assemble these. Be careful, though, as cut wire IS very sharp.
The next step is to cut the new wooden rod to length. I used 1/2″ diameter poplar dowels from the home center. They’re often labeled “hardwood dowels,” and the wood often has a slightly green color. They should run you less than $2 apiece. I got mine for $1.69 each.
At the store, take some time selecting the straightest dowels you can find. To test straightness, just sight down the length of each dowel rod. If they look straight, they are straight enough. But if you don’t trust your eye, roll them on the floor. A bent dowel will wobble a lot. A straight one will roll pretty evenly.
Cut your dowels to 16 inches long. If you bought 48-inch dowels, you can get exactly three hangers out of each dowel with no waste! I cut them with a small hand saw and a bench hook–that’s the handy holding device pictured above. (See the end of this post for more details on making a bench hook.)
Next, drill a small hole into each end of the dowel. You can eyeball the approximate center. Go as straight as you can, but don’t sweat a crooked or off-center hole. The hanger will work fine even if your drilling is off a little bit.
I like to stand my stock up in a bench vise, but if you don’t have a vise, you can brace one end of the dowel on something solid, hold the dowel in your hand, and carefully drill the end. I braced mine onto my bench hook, and it worked great. Just don’t slip!
Poplar is a fairly soft wood, so use a smaller diameter drill bit than your hanger wire. I used a 1/16″ bit, but you could go one size bigger without trouble. The exact depth of the hole is not crucial. I just drilled to the depth of the drill bit’s flutes.
The dowels come from the store sanded smooth–which is great if you want them like that. However, I don’t like my slacks slipping off the hanger and onto the floor at the slightest touch–as they will if the rod is too slick. So I used a piece of 80-grit sandpaper to roughen the rods a little. I just swiped the sandpaper down the length of the rod once, turned it slightly, and did it again, until the whole rod was just a little coarse. Just remember to clean off any sawdust before you hang your slacks on these things.
While you’ve got the sandpaper in your hand, also sand off any ragged fibers that the saw left at each end.
Now it’s time to assemble your new hanger. With your fingers, press each cut end of the wire into the holes in each end of the dowel rod as far as you can.
If you feel they haven’t gone in far enough, a few taps on each end with a hammer will seat the wire firmly. If the wire doesn’t seem secure, you can always add a dab of strong glue, such as E6000 glue or even hot glue, to each hole. But that probably won’t be necessary.
And that’s all there is to it! Hang up your slacks on your new hanger.
I didn’t use any kind of stain or finish on the wood because (a) I didn’t want to wait for a finish to cure, and (b) I don’t want any smelly or sticky stuff on my clothes. These are going in my closet anyway, and I really don’t care what color they are.
I made up a dozen of these in under an hour. It’s probably the easiest woodworking project I’ve done in years–and I’ll use the hangers I made for years to come.
Bonus: The Bench Hook
I use my bench hook all the time. I actually have two of them, and for cutting up long stock it’s nice to have a pair. But for small stock, one works just fine all by itself.
A bench hook is simple to make, and almost as simple to use. Each one consists of three pieces of wood. The base is a wide-ish board 3/4″ thick. Mine is about 8″ wide and 12″ long, but exact dimensions aren’t critical. You could easily build this with smaller pieces–whatever you have on hand.
The other two pieces are they cleats. They are narrower bits of wood, almost as long as the base. They can be screwed, nailed, or glued to the base, as you see above. Mine are glued on. If you’re right-handed, the smaller piece should go almost to the right-hand end of the base but not quite. Leave between 1″ and 1/2″ of the base protruding past the cleats.
To use the bench hook, the lower cleat hooks over the top of a workbench or table. You hold your stock against the upper cleat with your off-hand, and you saw with your dominant hand. I have two sawing spots in this bench hook–one on the end and the other in the middle. The one in the middle is best for very small pieces that need to be supported on both sides of the saw. I use the spot on the end for everything else.
When one side of the bench hook gets too chewed up to use–which will take quite a long time–you can flip the whole bench hook over and use the other side. This essentially doubles the working life if the jig.
The saw I’m using is a cheap dovetail saw made by crown, which I think retails for about $25. But any normal, sharp saw with relatively small teeth can be used effectively on a bench hook. With practice, you can hold a workpiece firmly and saw a clean, straight line with ease–no clamping required.
If you do much craft work at all, I highly recommend investing the fifteen minutes it will take you to make one or two bench hooks.
Most old tools are anonymous–unless you knew the previous owner personally, there’s no way to tell who owned them before you did. But there are happy exceptions. Two of my handplanes have a previous owner’s name on them. And while the names don’t exactly give me a full history of these tools, they do tell me something about the men who owned them.
Mr. A. Robertson
My wooden jack plane was once owned by Mr. A. Robertson.
I know Mr. Robertson only by his name stamp on this handplane. I got the plane from a guy in Alaska, but I have no way of knowing whether Mr. Robertson lived in Alaska, or whether the plane was brought up there by someone else later.
Mr. Robertson really liked his name stamp.
I mean, he REALLY liked it.
He stamped his name on this plane no fewer than 26 times!
There are at least four name stamps on every side except the sole. On the top, there are six.
Mr. Robertson also stamped the wedge, and he punched his initials into the top of the iron.
At first, I thought that this was just a guy who was excited about a new name stamp, and that he got carried away marking his name on his handplane. But the more I look at the stamps, the more I think differently. This man was methodical–to the point of being obsessive.
If he had been merely trying out a new stamp, I would expect more irregularity in the depth of the stamps. But the depth is quite regular. Plus, he always stamps his name in pairs, and in each pair of stamps, one stamp is inverted. That suggests a very deliberate method. I think that Mr. Robertson was determined that nobody would steal his tool and be able to sand off (or otherwise disfigure) all the name stamps. After all, it would be relatively simple for a thief to do away with one or two stamps, but not 26. It wouldn’t be worth a thief’s time to erase that much evidence. The fact that Mr. Robertson had a name stamp at all indicates that he was a professional, probably working alongside other professionals–a situation in which it is all too likely for tools to disappear.
The general condition of the plane confirms Mr. Robertson’s meticulous character. The tool is quite well cared for, given its probable age. It was made by the Sandusky Tool Co., which operated from 1869 to 1929. That would place this wooden plane at over 88 years old at the very least. The iron has not been ground down very much. In a plane this old, I would expect more of the iron to be gone due to regrinding. But if the user is careful–as I think Mr. Robertson was–an iron need not be ground very often.
Yet the plane does show wear from regular use. The ends have been tapped regularly with a mallet, which is how these wooden planes are adjusted. When I acquired the plane, the sole was not quite level. It had been inexpertly resurfaced after some wear. I doubt that the sole had been planed down by Mr. Robertson, who was far too conscientious a man to have done a job like that.
I wish I knew more about Mr. Robertson. I wish I could compliment him on taking such good care of his tools. I hope that he would be pleased to know that his old jack plane is still in regular use, nearly a hundred years later. But I really, really want to know why he stamped his name on his plane 26 times. I’m sure there’s quite a story behind that.
Mr. R. Kendall
The second handplane is about the same age as the wooden jack plane. I picked up this Stanley #3C smoothing plane at an antique mall in Indiana. The plane is an early type 9, which means it was made sometime between 1902 and 1907. (Note for handplane nerds: I know it’s an early type 9 because it has a type-9 frog and body, but the lateral adjustment lever is that of a type 8, which means that the plane was probably one of the first type 9s produced, and the factory was still using the last of some of its type-8 parts.) The plane was in remarkably good condition for its age–it merely required some cleaning and the gentle removal of a little surface rust.
This is what the plane looks like after some cleaning.
And this is what it looked like before the cleaning, but after total disassembly.
When I first bought the plane, I didn’t even noticed it was marked. But as I was cleaning off the tote with some Murphy Oil Soap, I noticed something on the top. It seemed to be some initials punched into the wood:
I could just make out an RK. Perhaps you can, too.
I was intrigued. What could RK stand for? I thought it must be the original owner’s initials. I didn’t think much more of it until I started cleaning the rest of the parts.
As I cleaned the lever cap, I found that under a light coating of rust, there was an etch, faint but distinct. It was difficult to photograph, but in just the right light, you can read the name R. Kendall.
Now I knew what RK stood for!
Like Mr. A Robertson, Mr. R. Kendall is mostly a mystery. Yet I can deduce a few things about him from this tool. Like Mr. Robertson, he cared for his tools very much.
I would guess that Mr. Kendall was a small man, or at least that he had small hands. The #3 is a fairly small smoothing plane, and my average-sized hands are not altogether comfortable on the tote. It is true that the #3 cost a little less than the #4, so it could be that Mr. Kendall was merely pinching pennies when he bought it. In Stanley’s 1934 catalog, the #3 with a corrugated sole cost $7.10 and the #4 cost $7.45–not an insubstantial price difference back then. Yet Mr. Kendall opted for the corrugated sole, an extra expense that a true cheapskate would have avoided. I think that the #3 fit Mr. Kendall’s hands, or perhaps his usual scale of work.
I do know that Mr. Kendall was a craftsman. The plane is expertly cared for. Despite its age, the wooden parts are in excellent condition, and the Japanning (the black paint on the inside of the body) is almost completely intact.
Also, the neat, cursive etching on the lever cap suggests a solid grammar-school education. His penmanship is precise. And the fact that this is a neat etch rather than, say, a shaky engraving indicates that he cared for the general appearance of his tools.
Mr, Kendall also knew how to adjust his plane for maximum performance. When I got the plane, the frog had been set pretty far forward, making the mouth very tight. Set that way, the plane will produce a fine shaving with minimal tear-out. While it is possible that a later owner re-set the frog, I doubt it. Frogs are not normally repositioned unless there is trouble with the plane’s performance. If Mr. Kendall was the one who positioned the frog, it is clear that he was knowledgable and experienced with handplanes.
It is highly likely that Mr. Kendall, like Mr. Robertson, was a professional woodworker of some kind–perhaps a furniture maker or a trim carpenter. An amateur has little need to put his name on his tools. But on a job site or in a busy shop, tools have a way of “taking legs,” as they say. Mr. Kendall valued his tools too highly to let them go easily.
One of the biggest changes in woodworking over the last century has been the de-professionalization of the craft. There are still a lot of professional cabinet shops as well as a few individual artisans carving out a living for themselves (sometimes literally), but I would guess that, today, the vast majority of woodworking tools, and especially high-quality hand tools, are bought by amateurs, not by professionals.
That means that, when we find high-quality, antique tools for sale today, there’s a good chance that they were originally owned and used by professionals. These were men who knew the value of hard work and good tools, and that’s why we have so many good antique tools available to us today. Without perhaps realizing it, these bygone professionals have left us a rich inheritance in their tools.
So here’s to you, Mr. Robertson and Mr. Kendall! I’m much obliged to you.
Tagged: #3, A Robertson, etch, handplane, jack plane, name stamp, plane, R Kendall, restortation, smoothing plane, Stanley 3C
Bibliophiles face an ongoing problem: where to store the books? In our house, we have run out of places to put more full-sized bookshelves, so we have had to get a little more creative by using more of our vertical space.
Enter the long wall shelf. I have always admired the ingenuity behind various wall-shelf designs. The above wall shelf is especially designed to hold books, and to make use of some available space above a window and a dresser (below the mirror) in our bedroom.
(Yes, I know there is an ugly water spot on the ceiling. Yes, the roof leak is now fixed. Thanks for pointing that out, though. It’s not like I look at that stain every single time I get up in the morning or anything.)
This is the second such shelf we have installed in our bedroom, and we love them. They keep important books within reach while still keeping them out of the way. There were, however, several challenges in designing and constructing them. (1) A long shelf that holds a lot of books is going to sag in the middle, and the longer the shelf, the more it will sag, so I had to come up with some sort of support system for the center of the shelf. (2) The shelf needed to be very strong, yet use simple joinery that could be cut on the ends of a 9-foot board. You don’t want this thing crashing down on your head while you’re rummaging through your sock drawer.
Taking my cue from old-fashioned timber-frame construction, I opted for angled braces on each end, attached to upright posts with lapped dovetails. The posts are notched and screwed into the back corner of the shelf, and the dovetails on the braces prevent the shelf from sagging forward. The tops of the posts are screwed to the wall studs.
The beauty of this design is that you find your wall studs first, and then you build your shelf to span the distance between the studs. A couple big, long screws on each side, and the shelf is firmly and permanently anchored to the wall. I used 3″ long deck screws.
The shelf you see in the photo above uses central bracing only on the back. They are braces that are attached at an angle between the corner posts and the center of the back with lapped dovetails. While elegant when the shelf is empty, the braces take up space behind the books, and the big books hang off too far. For my longer shelf, I needed a different solution to the sag-problem.
I opted for a third post in the center of the shelf, but instead of the lapped dovetail I used on the sides, I decided on a tusked tenon. On the left, you see one of the braces for the end. On the right, you see the middle post and brace with its longer tenon. Making them required some precise layout and sawing, but cutting the joints was not difficult. I built the end assemblies first–which was easy–and then used them as a template for the central assembly.
I chopped the mortise in the post for the brace, then drilled it to drawbore the tenon. That will keep the brace from coming loose, even if the glue ever fails.
Laying out and cutting the through-mortise was the most difficult part of the whole process. It’s not easy to lay out an angled mortise precisely in the middle of a long board. I set my marking gauge based on the joint I had cut on the end of the board.
Since the end assemblies use the same angles and placement as the center assembly, everything should work out. Theoretically.
I would normally just chop out a mortise in wood this soft. (The uprights and braces are southern yellow pine, and the shelf itself is juniper.) But the mortise runs across the grain, not with it, so I bored out most of the waste with a brace and bit. Since it’s a through-mortise, I bored from each side. There was a lot of flipping this board over and over again throughout the project. After boring out the waste, I cut out the rest with some chisels. Cutting the mortise at an angle required some care. It’s a good thing that the insides of mortises are never seen, because I left that surface pretty ragged.
And just to prove that even bloggers screw things up sometimes, here is my first attempt at a dry-fit. I had cut the brace about 1/4″ too short, and you can see the gap between the shoulder and the upright. So I discarded that brace and made a second one that fit properly.
Once I had the mortise in the shelf cut, I put everything together, marked the tenon where it came out of the mortise, and then bored a 3/8″ hole through the tenon, just slightly overlapping the line.
I shaved down one side of a hardwood dowel and tapped it through the hole, pulling everything up tight. The dowel–or tusk–will hold up the shelf in the middle and prevent it from sagging. I rounded over the end of the tenon, just so I didn’t have any sharp corners sticking out.
And here is the shelf with everything glued up and assembled:
For a finish, I just rubbed some paste wax on it and buffed it off. There’s no need to do any kind of elaborate finish here. Once the glue set up, it was time to mount the shelf in its place on the wall.
Two big screws in each upright holds everything in place.
It will hold almost nine feet of books. And it won’t take me long to fill it up.
Wooden cutting boards are wonderful. I wouldn’t be without them in my kitchen. But over time, their surfaces get chewed up–especially if you keep your kitchen knives sharp. A wooden cutting board can go years and years before its surface needs to be restored, but eventually it will be time to resurface it.
We were thinning out our camping gear a while ago, and we pulled out this sorry looking wooden cutting board. The surface was just too nasty to put it to use in our kitchen.
“Well,” I thought, “I know what to do with this.”
I set to work planing down each surface with my smoothing plane. About two minutes later, the surface looked very different.
The handplane leaves a glassy smooth surface, so no scraping or sanding was required. The wood appears to be hard maple, which is very common in older wooden cutting boards. It’s a tough wood–the same stuff they use for bowling alleys and basketball courts. A handplane needs to be razor sharp to cut this wood effectively. A closely-set chipbreaker also helps a lot.
Now, I realize that not everyone who has old wooden cutting boards also has a good handplane. But if you’re the sort of person who does a lot of handyman projects around the house, I think it’s really helpful to have a handplane. An old #4 or #5 Stanley is not hard to find used, and with a simple sharpening routine, you can keep the blade razor sharp. (There are many good tutorials on YouTube and elsewhere.) Just avoid the new-in-the-box handplanes at the big-box home improvement store. They’re pretty much all junk.
So after I posted the above pictures to social media, I got a message from my mom. Would I please bring my handplane next time I visit so I can resurface her cutting boards too?
Sure, Mom. I’d love to.
These are her cutting boards before I started work on them. They had belonged to my grandmother, and I remember them being in our kitchen growing up. In addition to the marks left from normal kitchen use, there were scoring marks from craft projects, as well some paint splatters and pinprick holes. I had to remove quite a bit of material from each side, but when I was done, they looked pretty good.
I not only resurfaced the working faces of each board, but I also scraped the grime off each end and edge with a card scraper. When I brought the cutting boards back into the house, my Mom hardly recognized them. But she was pretty happy with them.
I hadn’t brought any finishing materials with me, but I don’t think it’s really necessary to put any finish on cutting boards anyway. They will slowly but naturally absorb oils in the kitchen. I’m not lazy, just efficient.
Oh, and while we’re on the subject of cutting boards, I was in a high-end home-furnishings boutique in a big city last month, and I ran across this fancy cutting board:
It’s probably more of a serving platter than a cutting board, but you get the idea. Zoom in on the price tag if you can, and you’ll see it’s priced at $140.00
It certainly is a nice piece of spalted maple, but I think the price is a little steep. But I’ll tell you what: if you want a similar cutting board, I will happily make you one out of spalted pecan for half the price of the above cutting board.
Tagged: cutting board, cutting boards, handplane, maple, resurface