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General Woodworking

another short shop day......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 07/14/2017 - 1:35am
Today did get noticeably drier. It didn't feel that way when I hoofed it to the chinese place for lunch. However, the ride home had a smattering of off and on rain and after I got home, it really started to come down. The temp at lunchtime was 83°F (28°C) and after the rain storm my porch thermometer was reading 70°F (21°C). It was a lot more comfortable working in the shop tonight. I can't wait to get this bookcase done and out of the shop.

got it
 I got the profile planed but it was not easy to do. It took a bit of oomph to do it, especially on the lead in. The plane was binding and hesitant and even when it stopped cutting, it still didn't move too easily end to end.

no match here
This is where the iron ended up before it make a shaving in the bead portion. The good match up I thought I had yesterday appears to have been an hallucination. I did ID where and what is causing the binding. The right most flat has a lot of the iron showing above it but that wasn't the cause. It you look at the right side of the bead, the iron disappears into the plane. The bottom of the bead has too much iron showing too but the right side was causing the binding. Or maybe the whole bead portion is out to lunch. Regardless of what is at fault, I'll have to grind this profile to match the plane sole a lot better than it is now. One more molder into the gotta fix it pile.

That is the bane of these old molders. Less then half of the irons in my molding herd are an ok match and work and others, like this, work but not well. I only have 4-5 molders that I would say are a good match and plane well. I would guesstimate that over half of my molding plane irons don't match the plane sole well enough to plane their profile. I have two I would like to use but they aren't any good except to use as paperweights. I have a lot of man hours upcoming reshaping irons to their soles.

forgot about this
This is the knob from my hand drill that snapped in two when I tried to screw it back on. I glued it, wrapped it in blue painters tape and set it cook on my sharpening bench. Where I promptly forgot it until I saw the drill sans the knob tonight. The glue job appears to have worked well.

see the glue line?
When I was looking at this as I snapped this pic, I couldn't see the glue line. In the pic, I think it sticks out readily. It is solid now and two drop tests on to the bench proved it.

good and solid now
The knob had a good tight fitting feeling and I didn't feel any slop in it at all. Maybe it'll last another 50-60 years before my grandson has to fix again or makes a new one.

fingers crossed on this
I'm hoping that this will be the last coat of paint. If it is, I'll lightly sand this with 220 and put on a coat of water based poly. The weather is cooperating now with no humidity so this should cure out well.

it is not a shadow
The errant brush stroke that I deposited gray on the white is still visible. I put a second coat on it again tonight and I'll keep happy thoughts that it'll cover it.

Freddy Roman had left a comment on my blog a while back that the Parlee Lumber and Box company lumber yard out in Littleton Mass sold wide pine boards. I put in for a vacation day next friday and I had planned to go there and get some wide pine to make my grandson's tool chest. That won't be happening because Freddy did a post on the lumber yard closing. I remember a lumberyard in Griswold Conn(?) that sold wide pine boards so I'll search for that and see what shakes out. I would like to find someplace within a two hour drive of my house.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
In what war were khaki colored uniforms first used?
answer - the 1880 Afghan war

Oak furniture from Dedham & Medfield Massachusetts

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Thu, 07/13/2017 - 5:50pm

For a number of reasons, I was looking through some photo files here tonight. During the past year I have had a couple of chances to revisit some old favorite piece of oak furniture, and saw a couple related fragments for the first time. There is a group of chests and boxes made in Dedham and Medfield, Massachusetts during the 17th century. Years ago they were the focus of a study by Robert St. George, culminating in his article “Style and Structure in the Joinery of Dedham and Medfield, Massachusetts, 1635-1685” Winterthur Portfolio; vol. 13, American Furniture and Its Makers (1979), pp. 1-46. You can join JSTOR and read it here – https://www.jstor.org/stable/1180600?seq=1#page_scan_tab_contents

But like all oak of the period, our friend Robert Trent was all over them too – thus several examples were featured in the exhibition New England Begins at the Museum of Fine Arts too.   (Boy, did that set come down in price – https://www.amazon.com/New-England-Begins-Seventeenth-Century/dp/0878462104  -If you don’t have it, and you like the furniture and decorative arts of the period, get it. Used to be way more than $90…)

This chest is in a private collection, I had it years ago to make a new oak lid for it. Typical for this group, 3 carved panels, moldings on the framing parts. Not great work, but real nice. Black paint in the backgrounds, originally bright red on the oak, dyed with logwood or brazilwood dye.

This one was made for the Fairbanks house in Dedham, was illustrated in a late 19th/early 20th century article about that house. For many years it was MIA – then the Fairbanks Family was able to buy it at auction either late 1990s or early 2000s…I forget which. Has the only oddball center panel. (see the detail, top of the blog post) Refinished.


A reader sent me these photos once, shot at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in NY. These boxes are often pretty tall – maybe 9″ high. Pine lids and bottom, oak box. I made a copy of this one for a descendant of one of the joiners credited with this work, John Thurston of Dedham and elsewhere.

Now it gets really wiggy. I cropped this shot from an overall of a chest in a museum collection. Notice the panels on the left & right. They look good, right?

Here’s one – then compare it to its cousin below…

The other. Amazing what your eyes & brain can tolerate and still accept as a repeating pattern. I’ve carved this design a lot, and I can carve a panel about 10″ x 14″ or so in under an hour. I bet this guy was flying right along. Or old and infirm. Or somehow incapacitated, or compromised. Or something. Notice too the holes in the corners where I presume the panel was nailed down to hold it still for carving. I nail mine to a back board, and fasten that to the bench with holdfasts. That way I don’t have to move the holdfasts – they’re out of the way.

A related, but dead-simple version. Why all that blank margin? No applied molding, the framing is beveled around the panel. Ahh, everyone who knows why is dead.

These next two are the lynch pins for the attribution to John Houghton, joiner. These are fragments from a meetinghouse in Medfield from 1655/6. The town records cite a payment made to Houghton for work on the desk, a table and more. The “deske” in the records is the pulpit. These panels are believed to be part of that pulpit. This panel is about 6 5/8″ x 14″.

a detail of the  rectangular panel.

This diamond-shaped panel is nailed to a piece of oak that looks like some framing stock – but it tapers in width. Tradition says that these pieces were saved when the 1655/6 meeting house was demolished in 1706.

One more – this one’s in Nutting’s books, now at Wadsworth Atheneum. “Refreshed” paint, or completely re-painted. I forget which. Really nicely carved.

Marc Adams July 22-23 SketchUp Class

Bob Lang's ReadWatchDo - Thu, 07/13/2017 - 9:53am
Space Available MASW July 22-23 SketchUp Class There are still a few seats available in the two-day SketchUp class I will be teaching on the weekend of July 22-23, 2017 at the Marc Adams School of Woodworking in Franklin, Indiana. Continue reading →
Categories: General Woodworking

Video: Sturdy Drawer Joint on a Table Saw

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 07/13/2017 - 8:30am

The dovetail is the drawer joint of choice in many a classic drawer, but for a more mechanized world, the drawer joint of choice is often the half-blind tongue-in-groove. Sturdy, interlocking, mechanical without the need of nails, and quickly made on a table saw this joint often appears in commercial cabinetry (in a good way). This drawer joint can be used for inset drawers (as shown in the video excerpt below […]

The post Video: Sturdy Drawer Joint on a Table Saw appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

My First Day at Center for Furniture Craftsmanship

Highland Woodworking - Thu, 07/13/2017 - 7:00am

Molly Bagby is an employee at Highland Woodworking who is taking the 2 Week Basic Woodworking course at Center for Furniture Furniture Craftsmanship. Although she grew up at Highland Woodworking from a mere 1 week old, her knowledge of woodworking skills is limited. With this class, she intends to change that.

Since this is a 2 week class, the school sets up housing hosts for those who come in from out of town. I arrived in Hope, Maine around 10:30pm the day before my class started after a brief detour visiting my sister Kelley, a fellow author on this blog. I was easily able to find the house and my room, and my host was gracious enough to leave handwritten notes everywhere to tell me where everything was located. The next morning, she was in the kitchen when I came downstairs and she and I chatted a bit. Her name is Deb and she is active in the local arts community.

My residence for the 2 weeks I’m studying at Center for Furniture Craftsmanship

After a quick stop for some breakfast at The Market Basket (a deli I’ve frequented many times on my visits to the Lie-Nielsen Toolworks factory) it was off to my first day of woodworking school.

Each 2 week class at Center for Furniture Craftsmanship (CFC) accommodates 12 people (i.e there are 12 workbenches plus 1 for the instructor). When I entered the Workshop Building (1 of 5 buildings on campus), all but 2 of the workbenches were occupied with students ready and raring to go! I found an empty workbench at the back of the room and 5 minutes later, a guy named Mike Z from NYC showed up and took the last bench (and became my bench mate since our benches were butted up next to each other, as every 2 benches were situated in the classroom). Mike has been a really cool guy to get to know and we both have several things in common (being the 2 youngest people in the class and both having lived in NYC, among other things).

Mike brought this doll head from his school workshop in NYC. It stares at me a lot, so one day I tried to stick a chisel in its head so it would stop staring at me. My chisel wasn’t sharp enough.

Class started promptly at 9am when Peter Korn walked into the classroom and called everyone over to his workbench. He gave a brief overview of the school and then explained what would be happening over the next 2 weeks. He introduced us to Mary Ellen Hitt, the co-instructor for the class, and Eddie Orellana, who has the all-encompassing role of Shop Assistant. Then everyone taking the class introduced themselves. After I introduced myself, Peter noted that Highland Woodworking had donated many of the workbenches found throughout the school.

After introductions, Peter told us one of the most important things to know in woodworking safety: “Oily rags will spontaneously combust.” We haven’t even had our finishing talk yet, but already, this phrase has been repeated multiple times.

The rest of the morning included a basic overview of wood: “We’re going to start with wood…wood comes from trees…” This discussion included types of wood, types of grain, wood thickness, and wood grades. Next, he went right into discussing steel and chisels, which quickly led to the most important aspect of woodworking, sharpening.

I have quickly learned why sharpening is many woodworkers least favorite parts of the trade, but at the same time, I have also learned how important it is to have a sharp tool at hand. Peter went through a detailed step-by-step demonstration of his preferred sharpening process, which I will go into further detail about in an upcoming blog entry dedicated to sharpening and how much I hate love it. For now I will just say that Peter makes everything look really easy.

The last part of the day was spent touring the Machine Room and learning what each machine was used for, as well as safety measures for each machine. While I’ve grown up around power tools and machinery, I’ve never actually used any of it. I am excited to learn, but I am happy that the school likes to focus more on hand tool usage…

The Machine Room consists of the following:  a 10″ SawStop tablesaw, a 12″ sliding tablesaw, 8″ and 12″ jointers, 12″ and 15″ thickness planers, 14″ and 20″ bandsaws, drill presses, a lathe, a shaper, a chopsaw, a scrollsaw, a slot mortiser, grinders, a stationary disc/belt sander, and an oscillating spindle sander. There is also full dust-collection.

Every workday ends at 4:30pm with a class meeting to go over the next day’s schedule and then it’s time for shop and workstation clean-up. Peter made sure to note that according to OSHA standards, it is “illegal” to sweep a woodshop. Vacuuming it is!

The post My First Day at Center for Furniture Craftsmanship appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

More With Matt Furjanic of Inlaybanding.com – 360w360 E.240

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 07/13/2017 - 4:10am
More With Matt Furjanic of Inlaybanding.com – 360w360 E.240

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking, Matt Furjanic of inlaybanding.com returns to talk more about his company and other inlay topics. The discussion travels along topics such as how important dry woods are to making bandings, and how he slices his loafs into strips, which includes setting the fence to the right of the workpiece.

Join 360 Woodworking every Thursday for a lively discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more).

Continue reading More With Matt Furjanic of Inlaybanding.com – 360w360 E.240 at 360 WoodWorking.

H&H is back.......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 07/13/2017 - 1:28am
There is more whining to come on the weather so don't touch that dial and don't tune in another station. Not only did the H&H return, it brought the stickiness with it. The rivers of sweat flow so freely in this lovely weather and seem drip everywhere you don't want them. The kind of sweating where blinking your eyes will cause a cascade of it to roll down your forehead and leave droplets on the inside of your glasses. I can't forget complaining about it taking up residence in my beard and having the aroma of urea making me think I pissed on it. Oh the joys of living in a four season part of the world. I wonder what the humidity is like in Hawaii?

A series of thunder boomers just passed through my area and I didn't lose power. Knocking on wood.  It did absolutely nothing to make the H&H calm down. It is not supposed to be dry until friday and tomorrow is also supposed to be more humid then today. Needless to say, my decompression time in the shop tonight was short.

road testing the bead in spite of the H&H
The beader batted first because the board doesn't need any special set up. The iron and sole profile matched up real good. I set the iron to make shavings but I had to give two more love taps before it started to plane.

good looking bead for an as is iron
Some of the shavings were a bit raggy but I'm sure once I sharpen and hone the iron I'll be spitting out wispy ones. The scale of the bead looks to me to be a good size for this 3/4" thick piece of pine. I thought that it was going to look too big for this and I would have to use it on true 4/4 or 5/4 stock.

the astragal is batting cleanup
Before I run the astragal I need a rabbet on the edge of the board. I can't remember who left me that tidbit as a comment. When I first got an astragal plane I couldn't get it to make a profile. Someone left a comment telling me I needed a rabbet and I haven't had any problems since.

rabbet laid out
I am not sure on the size of the rabbet and I took my cue for the size from the outside edge of the plane.

need to go deeper on the rabbet
had to straighten out the wall
I planed a taper in both the bottom and wall of the rabbet. Since the size isn't critical, I made both straight by using my eye.

having some problems
First problem is the iron definitely needs to be sharpened. Secondly, I am clueless as to why this stopped cutting at this point.

checked the rabbet
I thought since it stopped cutting even after I advanced the iron again that the plane was bottoming out in the rabbet I planed. That wasn't so as there was about a 16th of daylight still to go there. Along with it not wanting to plane the profile, it is a bit difficult to push even in small increments.
tried it without a rabbet
This wasn't any better than trying it with the rabbet. It was hard to push and the boxing for the quirk left a line of shiny, polished wear. I was only able to get the profile about as much as the first try. I was sweating way too much and I had already soaked one head band and I was working on #2. I wasn't in the right frame of mind to troubleshoot this so I put it aside for now and I'll wait for a spell of dry weather.

the before pic
This was it sports fans. Posting pics of painting is on the same rung of the ladder as posting pics of paint drying. I painted the beaded part of the frame and shut the lights out. This completes my whining for the day because I headed for the AC heaven.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Ray Harroun?
answer - he won the first Indy 500 race in 1911

#WhyIMake | Chad Stanton

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 07/12/2017 - 11:27am

I’ve gotten to know Chad Stanton over the past few years while filming almost three seasons of I Can Do That. In that time, I’ve seen Chad build an abundance of appealing projects, and learned woodworking techniques that have helped me in my own builds. It has never occurred to me to ask Chad why he does what he does though. Honestly, I’ve never thought to ask myself the ambitious […]

The post #WhyIMake | Chad Stanton appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

now the woodworking is done.....

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 07/12/2017 - 2:14am
I finally completed the woodworking on the bookcase.  Attaching the top and the cove moldings were the two last steps and they were done tonight. Unfortunately, the weather has turned hot, humid, and sticky again. It is forecasted to rain off and on for the next two days but the humidity isn't going south. All that is left for me to do is paint. Doing it in this kind of weather sucks. The paint is dry but it feels clammy and cool if that makes any sense.

wood taps
I ordered these from the Wood Whisperer a while back and they finally came in. I got all four that he was selling and I really only wanted the 5/16 tap because a lot of the screws for my upcoming new bench build are 5/16" screws. I've had good luck using bolts in wood in the past and now I have a set of taps in all the common sizes - 1/4-20, 5/16-18, 3/8-16, and 1/2-13.  These taps can be used manually or with a drill.

first step tonight is take this
and attach it on top of this
got it centered and marked on the back
I would like to be able to clamp the lid in place and fasten it with some screws but clamps are out. I don't have any that will reach beyond the overhang on the three sides and the back is curved. It is very difficult to get sufficient pressure with clamps on a curved edge. The clamp idea is toast.

I think I got lucky in that the weather is lending a helping hand. The top is sticking to the bookcase. Not like it was glued but enough that it takes a good bump to get it to move. The plan is to drill the holes and then get two screws in place, one at the back and one at the front. And try my hardest to keep the top from moving as I do all these dance steps.

I had thought of positioning the top and putting a couple of nails in it to hold it. Then I could get the screws installed but then I would have to deal with the nail holes. Another step and potentially another day added to getting the bookcase finished.

picking the right screw
99.9% of the screws I use the shop are one of these two. Both are #8 spax screws 1 1/2" and 1 1/4" long. Here I'll be using the 1 1/4" ones, 3 at the back and 3 at the front. The top is upside down on the bookcase and a scrap piece of bookcase plywood is on top of that. I don't like to measure for these situations because this is a lot more accurate.

screw holes
 The back screws don't have to allow for movement. I want any movement of the top to be at the front so the front screw holes are slotted. I also put the screws as close as I could to the outside corners, front and rear. I want the screws there to pull the top down as tight as I can to the bookcase.

it fits
I beveled the screw holes here so that when the screw bites into the top there is someplace for the entry chips to go. The spax screws don't need a pilot hole but I am going to help it anyways by starting the the hole with the awl.
I'll start the holes from underneath going into the top

I think this will work
The top feels like it is stuck on velcro because it isn't budging. I held the top down and put in the back middle screw first. I checked the overhang and the back of the top flush against the back of the bookcase. I repeated this by putting in the middle screw at the front. The top was still aligned properly so I put in the remaining four screws. This went off without a hiccup and I was happily surprised it did.

cove molding is last
All three pieces are longer then necessary. The side ones can stay that way for now but the long middle piece has to be trimmed. I got this corner set and I marked the other end for the length.

love them ribs
 My first mistake free cove molding install.  Having that one ribbed back side is a great idea. I always know which side goes where when sawing the miter. Rough length sawn.

shooting it clean and smooth
the back heel needs to be trimmed a wee bit
shaved with the block plane
I kept all of the trimming beyond the front face of the cove. It doesn't matter if the inside of the miter is off. What matters is the front, visible face of the miter.

left them long
I could have marked and sawn this off but I left them long. Having them long gave me something to grab onto and push the side miter tight to the front one.

rough sawn and left proud
planed flush
I did all the planing going from the front face of the cove into the back. If I came the other way I would have gotten some feathers and possible blowout.

taped off the inside on all four edges
I doubt that this inside edge of the frame will be seen but I'm going to paint it anyways. I couldn't do it first because I glued and nailed the raw frame on first. I have never tried to glue painted wood to raw wood before. Now wasn't the time to experiment.

painted the front of these yesterday
4 coats of paint on the front of the shelves and it doesn't look like it. I can still see streaks so I'll be putting on another coat. I was going to paint the front strip of the shelves the same color as the exterior but I changed my mind. The shelves are inside the frame and I think the color contrast between the shelves and the frame will look good as is. I still might change my mind and go with the gray but for now it's toast.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was the highest scoring College football game?
answer - Georgia Tech beating up Cumberland 222-0 in 1916. Ouch.

How does the Maslow CNC fit in the Woodworking World?

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 07/11/2017 - 9:11am

Last December when I started this series on the Maslow CNC, my goal was to evaluate the $350 kit with a focus on how it might fit into a hobbyist woodworker’s world — the kind of machine a woodworker in a home shop who might want to try a bit of digital woodworking at a low price. With that in mind, I look at the Maslow CNC and come up […]

The post How does the Maslow CNC fit in the Woodworking World? appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Tips from Sticks in the Mud – July 2017 – Tip #2– Modifying a Portable Air Tank

Highland Woodworking - Tue, 07/11/2017 - 7:00am

No Southern-fried Southern boy wants to be called a Yankee, but we share the characteristics of shrewdness and thrift. Thus, each month we include a money-saving tip. It’s OK if you call me “cheap.

This little modification will make your portable air tank infinitely more useful: Where it originally came with an attached hose, turn the air-flow shutoff to the closed position, then remove the hose at the fitting, using a tubing wrench. Save the hose.

New, portable air tanks come with the air hose attached. You don’t want to ruin the hose or the fitting, so utilize a tubing wrench to disconnect the hose. Be sure the tank is empty, or the air valve is in the closed position, or both.

Using the appropriate-sized brass nipple, attach a female quick disconnect to the tank. Be sure to cover the threads with Teflon tape or pipe dope, because you don’t want any air being wasted through leaks.

A quick disconnect will allow you to attach any sort of air tool to your portable air tank.

Now, install a male quick disconnect on the supplied hose. You did save the hose, didn’t you?!

Congratulations, you just increased the utility and versatility of your little tank!

Jim Randolph is a veterinarian in Long Beach, Mississippi. His earlier careers as lawn mower, dairy farmer, automobile mechanic, microwave communications electronics instructor and journeyman carpenter all influence his approach to woodworking. His favorite projects are furniture built for his wife, Brenda, and for their children and grandchildren. His and Brenda’s home, nicknamed Sticks-In-The-Mud, is built on pilings (sticks) near the wetlands (mud) on a bayou off Jourdan River. His shop is in the lower level of their home.Questions and comments on woodworking may be written below in the comments section. Questions about pet care should be directed to his blog on pet care, www.MyPetsDoctor.com. We regret that, because of high volume, not all inquiries can be answered personally.

The post Tips from Sticks in the Mud – July 2017 – Tip #2– Modifying a Portable Air Tank appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

sometimes you gotta wait......

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 07/11/2017 - 2:37am
I had to make a pit stop at the post office tonight and boy oh boy, was I in for it. I've bemoaned my trials and tribulations before about the post office but tonight was the topper. All nine spots in front were full and there were 5 cars parked illegally on the side of the building. There is extra parking way in the back of the post office (the lazy AHs park illegally on the side of the building) and that is where I parked and walked back to the front door. And I took my place outside and waited the 38 minutes for my turn. In some lovely humid, hot summer weather until I got to the AC inside.

There are two clerks there with a helper. Only the clerks can wait on people and the time I was there the outgoing mail was getting picked up. So, one clerk waiting on people and another doing outgoing mail. You'd think that they would do the mail after the counter is closed so all that mail can go too?

I checked Staples for printing out my camera manual and the cost for that was 32 cents a page for a tally of $42.88. To have it spiral bound would take an additional 2-3 days and cost about $6 more.  Duplex and collating would add an additional cost too. My wife offered to print it out (duplex and collated) and then bring it to the Staples by her work and have it spiral bound.  Maybe this weekend I'll be able to read up on how to operate my new TG-5.

waiting for me when I got home from the post office
The small box is for the Stanley 5 1/4 I got for my grandson and big box is for me because I've been a good boy. Josh at Hyperkitten had a couple of molders that were screaming my name so I had to buy them to silence them.

from doz's olde tyme stanley totes & knobs
This is  set of Honduran rosewood and I doubt any of the real stuff is for sale anyway. This set is perfect looking. Great color, figure, and with a good looking finish on them too.

low knobs rule
doz's tote looks 100% better
I like doz's totes because he does them in the older stanley style with the same sensuous curve coming up from the bottom going to the horn. Now that I have the knob and tote, I can finish the 5 1/4 rehabbing. I just have to sand the bed on the frog and clean up the iron and the chipbreaker.

these two are for me
I'm sure that if my grandson or granddaughter shows any interest in my herd that I will pass them on to them.

I've been eyeballing these on Josh's site for a couple of weeks and I almost pulled the trigger on them several times but didn't. I was surprised that they lasted this long without someone else snapping them up. When he put these in the reduced and leftover page I just had to buy them. Both are in a large size with one being a beader and the other an astragal.

7/8 astragal
This is as large as I would go with this type of plane for cabinet work. For large case work it is at the upper end in the scale.

a #5 bead plane
Josh said this was a 5/8" beader that was made for Harolds which is an English hardware store. I do like and prefer english made planes over the american ones. There is the numeral 5 on the heel and that is the only number(s) on the plane.

7/8" astragal

I measured this one every which way to sunday and I got nothing to measure 7/8".  From the outside quirk to the inside wall of the bead is frog less than 13/16". That was the closest I came to 7/8".

bead on the left and astragal on the right
The irons for the two planes are similar looking. The big difference is the bead has a smaller flat on one edge of the bead. The astragal has two closely sized flats on either side of the bead.

got super lucky again
The sole and the boxwood on this plane is perfect. No chips, dings, scratches, and the boxwood is dead straight and solid. This is the astragal plane which looks a lot like the beading plane. The beader doesn't have the small rabbet in the middle area of the plane.

the beader doesn't have a rabbet in the middle part of the plane

got lucky with the iron too (beader)
The iron matches the sole of the plane almost exactly. I didn't have a chance to road test it because I have painted bookcase parts hogging the bench and the rest of space in the shop. I will definitely road test this at the first opportunity. The iron is awfully close to matching the sole the way Matt said it should be.

went two for two
I have few astragals and on two of them I had to touch up the flats on the iron to line them up with the sole. This one looks to be perfect and I can't wait to see what the profile looks like. I want to compare it to my 1/2" astragal and eyeball the two profiles.

ready to reclaim some real estate
I did come back to the shop after dinner last night and I painted the base again. It looks pretty good and this will raise it up off the floor so that I can paint the rest of the exterior now.

I'm still not done with the saw donkeys though. I can paint the sides and back with it on the the deck but it will be easier to paint the beaded frame if I put it back on the saw donkeys.

the blanket will protect the bottom of the base
I don't mind kneeling to paint the sides and the back but not the beaded frame. The sides/back is all straight brush work and the beaded frame with take a bit of finesse to knock out. I can get a much better view of what I am painting with it horizontal on the saw donkeys.

An errant brush stroke but it shows the contrast between the white of the interior and the gray of the exterior.

back and sides painted
This makes 4 coats on the exterior, 2 primer coats and 2 top coats.  This is still wet and it looks like I got 100% coverage but I will wait for the it's done pronouncement until tomorrow.

the new shelf
I forgot to knock off the arris before I put the first coat on yesterday. I did it now and I only painted the bottom. Tomorrow I'll flip this over the paint the top and the front piece too. I like the coverage I got with this without any primer. I think two coats is going to be the charm for this.

No woodworking tonight and it looks like until I get the painting done there won't be much of it. The painted parts are hogging all the available space in the shop. As much as I want this to be done, I also don't want to cut corners to save time to complete this. This is the hard part of a project for me. No woodworking and a lot of finishing that has way too much hurry up and wait.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was James George Snyder Jr?
answer - Jimmy the Greek, the famous odds maker

SketchUp or Fusion 360?

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 07/10/2017 - 12:41pm

I’ve never properly used a drafting table but I have fond memories of snooping around the offices when I went to work with my dad and playing with my uncle’s motorized drafting table. I mean, come on, a table that was controlled with pedals was pretty amazing to a young kid! Since the days of motorized drafting tables have passed, a multitude of software options have come to market. Many packages […]

The post SketchUp or Fusion 360? appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Edge Banding Architectural Veneer in a Small Shop

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 07/10/2017 - 8:57am

Recently, a woodworker who’s about to start building a set of cabinets for her own kitchen asked me how I apply heat-sensitive edge banding to doors and drawer faces when working with architectural veneers. She’d done some similar work before but had problems with tear-out during trimming. Here’s my technique, a hybrid between the system used at the first shop where I encountered this type of veneer work and some […]

The post Edge Banding Architectural Veneer in a Small Shop appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Poll: How Do You Feel When Non-Woodworkers Call You a Carpenter?

Highland Woodworking - Mon, 07/10/2017 - 7:00am

How do you feel when non-woodworkers call you a carpenter?

I suppose I was a woodworker in 7th grade, when I took wood shop in Mr. Boney’s South Park Junior High class, but I wasn’t very good at it. It seems I could never get anything square, or make good-looking joints. That was 1964, and I’m not even sure the term “woodworker” existed then. “Woodwork” dates to 1640-1650.

I was a framing and trim carpenter for a time after my Air Force stint. That was really fun work, and I learned a lot.

This was my very first nail apron, purchased from Sears. Our local Sears is scheduled to close its doors after 45 years in Edgewater Mall.

I remember a homeowner asking our foreman, Jack English, whether he knew any carpenters who could make her some bookshelves. One of my coworkers, older and more worldly than I, said, “What she wants is a cabinetmaker, not a carpenter.” I didn’t know that there was such a thing as a cabinetmaker, much less a difference, but I didn’t let my ignorance show, I just filed the information away for future use.

When I went to the University of Mississippi, Ole Miss, I was carrying a heavy class load, so there wasn’t time for a job, but I did spend some of my weekends making picnic tables to sell. Po’ Boy spruce studs were 10¢ each, and were straighter and had fewer barked edges than today’s studs at 33 times the price. Treated pine, with real arsenic, made a premium dining surface, unless you wanted to spring for heart cedar or redwood, and even that was affordable.

Today, 23 treated pine 2x4x8′ boards to make this picnic table and matching benches would cost you about $110.00. In the 70s, I sold the completed table with benches for about $50.

Cedar’s price has gone up a bit. When I made this rectangular heart cedar table for our eldest granddaughter, the wood cost about $200. But, it was pure heartwood, and has stood up well to brutal Kentucky summers and winters…

…The lumber for this little round job, with curved benches, on the other hand, cost around $400, and I had to do a lot of selecting to minimize sapwood use in crucial parts. Fortunately, it will live on a porch, where it will have a bit more protection from Kentucky weather, though it will still have to stand up to the two youngest grandchildren.

In the time between the end of the spring semester in Oxford, MS, and the fall start time in Auburn, AL, I needed income. I couldn’t make a long-term commitment to an auto mechanic’s job, and it didn’t occur to me to look for a nearby dairy farm, but there was a lot of home construction in Auburn, and it was easy to find a job on a home-building crew. So, for a time, I was a carpenter again.

We established in a previous poll that most woodworkers are DIYers. Therefore, we’re doing a lot of carpentry on our own homes and businesses, and maybe some for customers, too.

For me, then, I’m proud to be considered a carpenter. Still, when I think of my role as furniture-builder, I consider the difference between what my wife, Brenda, produces, which is fine art, versus what you can buy at a flea market, which are craft-level items. Not every piece of furniture I build rises to the level of art, but it’s always what I strive for.

In carpentry, on the other hand, art is not usually my goal, but I still give it my best.

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Categories: General Woodworking

lots of painting.....

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 07/10/2017 - 1:43am
I didn't get all the woodworking on the bookcase done today.  I forgot to factor in the painting and I'll have to wait until say I'm done with the woodworking. I'm not saying it will be tomorrow because something else may pop up that I'll have to deal with first again.

saturday night after supper
I went back to the shop after filling the pie hole to filling the gaps in the tails and pins. I filled them up with Dunham's Putty and I sanded it smooth this morning.

I don't have a lot of confidence in the simple dado joint at the back and I wanted to reinforce it somehow. I put two miller dowels in each dado. I used my hand drill to do these which was a first for me with the miller dowel drill bit. Proved another handtool vs power tool thing. The power drill is quicker but the hand drill has a lot more control.

This came loose when I was using the drill and when I tightened it back down, it split in two.  This looks like it is mahogany. I glued it, clamped it together with painters tape, and set it aside to cook.

I have a straight board clamped to the top and the back is even with it along it's length.

unclamped the board
The top has a slight cup to it. I have to secure the back to it with it straight. I clamped the board back on and glue and nailed the back to the top. Once that was done, I clamped it along it's length and set it aside to cure for a few hours.

sealed the knot with shellac
pitch streaks
Across the top there is line of pitch streaks like this. It is heaviest on this side and tapers out going to the left. Paint does not stick to this stuff that well if at all. If it does stick, it telegraphs through the paint that it's there. The shellac will seal this and the paint will stick to the shellac with no problems.

new shelf
Lowes usually has 2x2 pieces of 3/4" birch plywood but not today. 2x4 and 4x4 were the only pickings on the shelf. I bought the flattest 2x4 piece in the stack. The left overs won't go to waste but I did want to minimize how much there was. I still have to rip the front pine piece to width and make a rabbet in it.

cleaned up the rabbit
Even though this is a small rabbet I prefer to use the tenon plane over the bullnose to clean it up. I like the longer registration of the tenon plane and feel it gives a truer action.

almost dead flush
I took one more see through shaving end to end so it would be a frog hair proud. After it had set up for a few hours, I planed it dead nuts flush.

planed the profile
Before I did the molded edge, I took one shaving off the front face to clean it up.

why the woodworking isn't done
This is the bottom of the top and it is getting one coat of paint. I don't expect the top to move much and the bookcase even less but just in case. If there is any movement there won't be any bare, raw wood showing.

before the 2nd coat goes on
The nail holes on the left (the bottom of the top) I don't have to fill as these will be hidden and not seen. The ones on the right will be at the back and seen. These I will fill with joint compound before I put on the 2nd coat.

painted the shelf too
Off camera to the right is the bookcase and I painted the sides and back of that too. I didn't use any primer on the new shelf and it looks way better then the other two did with primer coats. I am crossing my fingers on this and hoping I get out of this with two coats.

The paint for the bookcase is similar to the white of the interior of the bookcase and shelves. But it has a slight grayish tint to it. I was hoping for darker color contrast between the two. This is going on the front porch so it won't get a lot of look sees. The important thing is my wife saw it and approved it.

I plan on painting the base on the bookcase with one more coat after dinner. Right now it's on the saw donkeys taking up way too much real estate in the shop. Once two coats are on the base, tomorrow I'll be able to put it upright and regain some walk around room.

couple of boxes coming
These aren't going to be sliding lid boxes. I am going to put a lid on them with hinges. Doing hinges is something I need to practice and these will be a good opportunity. This is about all I can do with parts being painted on the bench too.

tails sawn
I stopped here and went upstairs to figure out how to use my new TG-5 camera. That was a quick 15 minutes. The manual that came with it sucks. It was a single multi fold piece of paper and not a manual. I had to read it with a magnifying glass and it was just barely about the basics. I wanted to find out how to do the WiFi but there was nothing there on it. I had to download the manual from the web, all 134 pages.

One thing I will not do is read a manual on my computer. I want to hold the pages in my hand and leaf through them. I want to be able to make notes in the margins and go back and forward if I have to. I think Staples will print this out and put in a booklet format. I'll have to check that on line and see if that is truth or rumor.

went back to the shop
I sawed off the half pins and the plan was to stack them up and chop out the center pin waste. That didn't pan out because the painted stuff is resident over my bench hold fast holes. The chopping will have to wait till later.

this layout looks a bit goofy
The tails are thinner than I like at the base. I may end up cutting these off and redoing the layout. I will wait until I get the center pin chopped out and see what that looks like.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What were the code names for the 5 beachheads on D-Day, June 6, 1944?
answer - Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno, and Sword

Tips from Sticks in the Mud – July 2017 – Tip #1 – Portable Air Tank

Highland Woodworking - Sun, 07/09/2017 - 9:56am

Welcome to “Tips From Sticks-In-The-Mud Woodshop.” I am a hobbyist who loves woodworking and writing for those who also love the craft. I have found some ways to accomplish tasks in the workshop that might be helpful to you, and I enjoy hearing your own problem-solving ideasPlease share them in the COMMENTS section of each tip.  If, in the process, I can also make you laugh, I have achieved 100% of my goals.

Sometimes you have a little job, but you just don’t want to do that job with a hand tool.

Take this little canoe repair. A crossmember needed a single rivet to supplement the existing rivets, but I ran out of the proper size and needed to put the canoe into storage instead of leaving it in the way until I went to the store.

Four rivets down, one to go. Darn the luck! I ran out of rivets when I originally repaired this crossmember, turning the final, single rivet installation into a separate job.

When I finally got the right fastener, I first reached for the manual rivet gun to pop it into place. Then, I remembered the pain in my arm, shoulder and neck from having hurt myself during a garage renovation project. That’s when I decided to put in a little effort now in order to achieve a long-term savings.

As you can read in my Highland Woodworking Blog post, after the injury I purchased an inexpensive, air-powered rivet tool. While it seems like overkill to pull out an air tool for one rivet, I’ve discovered that I can still aggravate that old injury with the wrong squeeze of my hand. The canoe repair was uneventful.

One of the ways I made it easy was by taking my air with me, instead of running a hose all the way to the canoe.

Enter: the portable air tank.

If your job isn’t too terribly big, you may be able to accomplish all you need to do with one good filling.

First, pump it as full as the attached gauge shows is safe. My compressor goes to 125 psi.

Fill the tank all the way, but don’t exceed the safe pressure limit.

Let your imagination fly! I finished my little riveting job in far less time than it took to set up, but, gained the two weeks that I would have been in pain. I’ve used the tank for impact wrenches and blowing small jobs that didn’t lend themselves to a brush or broom.

Of course, the original intention of an air tank purchase was to pump up flat tires, but it’s far more versatile than that!

Jim Randolph is a veterinarian in Long Beach, Mississippi. His earlier careers as lawn mower, dairy farmer, automobile mechanic, microwave communications electronics instructor and journeyman carpenter all influence his approach to woodworking. His favorite projects are furniture built for his wife, Brenda, and for their children and grandchildren. His and Brenda’s home, nicknamed Sticks-In-The-Mud, is built on pilings (sticks) near the wetlands (mud) on a bayou off Jourdan River. His shop is in the lower level of their home.Questions and comments on woodworking may be written below in the comments section. Questions about pet care should be directed to his blog on pet care, www.MyPetsDoctor.com. We regret that, because of high volume, not all inquiries can be answered personally.

The post Tips from Sticks in the Mud – July 2017 – Tip #1 – Portable Air Tank appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Quick & Easy Tapers

360 WoodWorking - Sun, 07/09/2017 - 4:10am
Quick & Easy Tapers

I’m about to wrap up work on an office that’s almost fully paneled with sapele. There is wainscoting, a full wall of bookcases, a paneled fireplace wall with step-back cupboards flanked to both sides and a couple of angled bookcases. Plus, there’s a door to case. Earlier drywall work pushed out from the existing door frame, so I had to build out the frame to make the new casing sit flat. I needed quick and easy tapers.

Continue reading Quick & Easy Tapers at 360 WoodWorking.

almost done........

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 07/09/2017 - 3:26am
I came awfully close to finishing all the woodworking for the bookcase today. I could have kept on truckin' with it but it was 1600 and the bones were starting to creak. I also heard a few new noises but I don't think anything broke. Another hiccup was having to wait for the glue to set up before I got back to working on it. I know tomorrow I will be done with the woodworking and maybe the first coat of paint will go on.

base on
I did this morning at 0630. I used yellow glue just on the dovetails. No glue was used to fasten the base to the bookcase. I want to be able to remove the base for repairs or replacement. Plus it will help whoever comes behind me on this. I let this cook for 6 hours before I unclamped it.

base support
This is one of the cutouts from the side of the base. I used the both of them here at the front, left and right, for the bookcase to rest on. They are glued to the back of the apron

the bottom back support
I will put this one after the base has set up. I'm not sure if the base is positioned properly right now with all the clamps on it. It is hard to see exactly where it is sitting.

it was flat
I bought this 1x12 at Lowes and in the store it was flat. I didn't see any bow in it at all. 15 minutes after buying it I'm home and this is toast.

also bought two 1x8's
This is from the #3 common stock that Lowes sells. I have bought this crap before and had it do stupid wood tricks like the one above and that is why I bought these two as backups. I can get almost dead clear stock out of this for the top.

the two outside edges have hiccups
Since my overall width for the top is about 12", I can easily get that out of these two boards by cutting the two defects out.

pesky knot
I need a 34" rough length out of this 4' board and there is now way I can work around this knot. This knot is black and dry which means it can shrink and fall out. I'll have to work some epoxy in around it to keep that from happening.

3/4" cove
I checked this against my largest hollow and it is too small. I thought of this on drive home from Lowes - this is a molding I could have made. I have a cove molding plane labeled 3/4 and maybe I'll remember it for the next time.

working on the top
The plan is to rough saw these to length and get them glued up.

the two big off cuts I can use for the plow plane box
this is the winner
The grain run into this point on the board but it is straight coming from both directions. I'll saw this defect out and glue this side to the other board.

the opposite side of the board
The grain is running the same here as the other side but here it's a bit wilder. It isn't as straight and the grain lines are a lot wider here. This will end up at the back of the top. This will also be cut off once the final width of the top is established.

ripped off the first defect for edge gluing
got it glued up without killing anyone
This was only a two board glue up but it kicked my ass. I got a perfect mating between the two boards except for one 4-5 inch stretch on one board. There was a gap there I just couldn't seem to get rid of. I tried all the tricks I learned and what I've Paul Sellers do but no luck. How did I fix it? I got pissed off at it and planed against the grain going from the low spot to the other end. 3 swipes and I had a perfect fit with no gaps.

back thing for the top
This is the bowed board and I did a cross cut to get a rough length. This will give up the board that will be positioned at the back of the top. I have absolutely no idea what this is called. The smaller off cut will be put with the others for the plow plane box.

marked for ripping out
I have to darken the knife lines with a pencil because I have a hard time seeing them in the this light pine.

ripped out and planed the hump on this side
straightening the edge going against the bookcase
The opposite edge is getting a curve so I don't have to straighten it.

outside face has almost no twist
front face has about 1/8" twist end to end
This I had to take out. This face will lay up against the back edge of the top and it can't have any twist in it.

cove molding rough sawn
This will be going underneath the top to conceal any gaps between the top and bookcase on the front and sides. This will probably be the very last woodworking to do on the bookcase.

something new
 One side of the cove molding is ribbed. That makes cutting and putting it in place so much easier because you have a reference side. I can't begin to tell you how many times I've cut the cove miter on the wrong face. I cut all these out correctly the first time because I had the ribs to guide me.

layout for the back thing done
I sawed off the angles on the ends first and then cut out the round.

I sawed the rounded top on the bandsaw
Using a spokeshave to do the chamfers but before I did them I had to smooth and straighten out the round over.

chamfer laid out

stopped chamfer on the ends
The back piece is the same length as the top and I don't want the chamfer to run down behind it and leave a gap. So I am stopping it about 3/4" up from the bottom.

sawed the end cut first with the Zona saw
worked down to the pencil lines with a chisel
repeat for the other side
chamfer done
I did most of the chamfer work with the spokeshave. I followed that up with my block plane to smooth and fair it out.

flushing and cleaning up the dovetails
I tried to do this on the saw donkeys but it was working. I couldn't hold the bookcase and use the plane at the same time. I got a moving blanket on the floor and I'm using the lally column as a planing stop.

I'll mark and saw the over hang off
I inset the back a 1/2"
I didn't want the back flush with the back of the bookcase nor use a rabbet joint here.

screwing the supports to the bookcase
The screws are a wee bit too long so instead of screwing them in straight in, I did them at a slight angle.

screwed the back one in too
There is no glue holding the base to the bookcase. These 3 supports are what is holding the base in place.

chamfered the base
I did the two corners first so I wouldn't get any blowouts.

fuzzy pic
This should be showing that the pencil line is still visible after I sawed off the overhang. I planed down to the line with a block plane next.

going to need another shelf
flattening the top
I didn't go nutso on this. I did the top and bottom by eye. I didn't check for twist with winding sticks but rather did it by eye too. The board didn't wobble at the corners when I was done and it looks ok.

reason #1 I don't like make the back thing first
I have almost no wiggle room on squaring this up. This doesn't even look like I have a 32nd to split on both ends.

big ass shooting board
I don't use this that often but it worked exceedingly well today splitting that 32nd.

tear out heaven
The other side came out blowout free and this side went south on the Nutso express. I knew I should have knifed a line but with one side ok I expected the same here.

cleaned up the shoulder first
Using the molding to deepen the top shoulder was just tearing it out worse. I used the bullnose to do that.

fine set #3 and then the molder again
I made the shoulder deepen so I could use the #3 on this spot. I then ran the molder down the front edge again concentrating on this front corner. I didn't mold the end grain edge again.

came out a bit better
Maybe some joint compound will fill it up a bit more and make it look better.

I don't like this
This reminds of the beaded side frame butting into the bottom frame of the bookcase. I think it needs to be a wee bit higher.

this looks better being up higher
nailed a piece onto the bottom
I used one of the pieces I ripped off as the riser here. Since this is being painted it won't show. If this was to be left natural, I would have made a new back thing. I glued and nailed this because there wasn't any way to get clamps on it.

ripping the top to it's final width
flat, straight, and square
almost there
Attach the back thing to the top. Attach the top to the bookcase (still thinking on how to best do that).  Trim, fit, and install the cove moldings. Paint the bookcase in it's exterior color. Make a new shelf because you didn't want to do when you made the first two and knew you had too.  Then I'll be able to say it's done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many batting titles did Babe Ruth win?
answer - one. in 1924

The Tool World Loses An Innovative Giant

The Barn on White Run - Sat, 07/08/2017 - 5:41am

I was saddened to learn last week from Brian Meek that Lee “The Saw Guy” Marshall had passed away.  Lee was the creator of the Knew Concepts company that produced the finest jeweler’s saws and coping saws known to man.  My friendship with Lee (and Brian) had grown continually since we first met many years ago at a Woodworking in America event, and ever since we had picked each other’s brain on many occasions.  In some respects our friendship must have been an odd one, and more than once Lee remarked, usually with a chuckle, that he was surprised that a “Santa Cruz lefty” got along so well with someone who thinks that 1964-era Barry Goldwater was a moderate.

Our relationship grew into me being an enthusiastic collaborator with Lee and Brian as they continued to invent and refine new versions of their products.   Our correspondence was frequent and I reviewed countless design drawings that Brian sent me for comment, and I have many Knew Concept prototypes in my shop, and will continue using them until I hang it up.  Lee was always curious about augmenting his own experience with that of others, and for several years we combined Lee’s aerospace machinist mindset with Brian’s background as a bench jeweler with mine as a woodbutcher.  Many was the time I would explain precisely how it is that woodworkers used their tools, and before long I would see some new understanding become manifest in their tools.

In many respects Lee was a model for me to follow.  An octogenarian whose good cheer, unfailing generosity and insights were never diminished by some serious injuries he had suffered many years ago, rendering him officially “disabled,” Lee was simply one of the most inventive and hard working men I have ever met.  His brain never turned off, working diligently until the end, creating and inventing with many projects in development at the time of his death.  Brian assures me that they will be carried to completion.

To his wife and family, and all who knew and loved Lee I extend my sincere condolences and offer heartfelt blessings in the sorrow of his absence from us.  He is greatly missed.


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