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General Woodworking

now I have sliding tills......

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 09/18/2017 - 1:41am
Before I got to the tills, I spent some time searching You Tube on tool chests. I had seen one that showed the chain trick that I copied but I couldn't find it again. I thought I had found it a couple of times but when I didn't see the chain trick, I knew those videos were toast. After searching You Tube I changed lanes and searched Saw Mill Creek and the WWW.  I had joy in finding it again.

I like this chain trick and how it dealt with an annoying problem with the chain falling into a till. The problem with that is the chain coils in the till and it can catch tools and pull them up as the lid is opened. I think my problem with not finding the chain trick again is I watch and read a lot of things.  Just punch in tool chest in on You tube you will get over whelmed with videos. I'll keep looking and I might come across it again.

after dinner on saturday
This is what I saw on sunday morning. I packed this into the void as hard as I could. When I couldn't stuff anymore in it, I mounded it up. I'm glad that I did it because this morning I can see that it shrunk a bit.

can you work epoxy with hand tools
chisel works
The chisel had to take small bites. The chisel is sharp and anything more than a wispy shaving, the chisel would balk. Leveling it with the chisel would have worked but it also would have taken a lot of time.

the winner
I set the plane to take a thin shaving and planed this flush in no time at all.

If I had thought of it, I could have dyed this to darken this up. That would have looked better to my eye than this opaque white patch.

out of the clamps
Both of the till/trays didn't come out square. That proves again to me that clamping something with a square doesn't ensure a square outcome.

larger of the tills
Of course it is the last side I was planing when this happened.

easily pulled the other sides apart
I looked the joints over and found only two little bits of pins & tails that were still attached. This wasn't a failure of the hide glue but a failure caused by gluing bad joints.

large till dry fitted back together and it slides
smaller till survived the planing clean up
not square
The big till is square but this one isn't. It is tight into the corner at the bottom and runs out to right at the top.

the two tills won't fit in the big till
the larger till
I epoxied the till back together. Given the looseness of the dovetails gluing it again with hide or yellow glue would be futile. I used 5 minute epoxy and with a 1/4" plywood bottom glued on I think they will keep it together.

squared the frame and took a coffee break
Even though it is 5 minute epoxy I still like to let it set up for 24 hours before using it.

chisel box
These were the first chisels I got back when back in late 1970's. They are metric which I didn't find out until years after I had owned them. They are also complete crap. The will sharpen up and look good but they dulled very quickly. I am going to make a second till this size for Miles chisels. They won't be this crappola but something else.

the smaller till
I'm going to reuse these till parts to make the new smaller one.

the two tail sides will be shortened
the larger till
At least I did good job on closing up the interior corners.

gluing the bottom on the larger till
I sawed the bottom to be a very close fit to the bottom. To keep it from shifting as I glued it, I nailed 3 corners. I set it aside to set up and went back to work on making the new smaller till.

sawed and squared up the new sides
did my layout
After I got the four of these laid out, I looked at them and they looked odd. Since I was doing tails being marked from the pins, I thought it was ok.

something was wrong
I had already started chopping these and stopped. I did something wrong as I was chopping pins and I already have two sides with pins. Something was awry.

my tail lines slant in the wrong direction
sawed a practice one
I was still confused here thinking this is odd but ok. I'm a tails first dovetailer and have been since the beginning. I did make a box doing pins first to try it and I haven't done pins first since then. Trying to get into the mind set of pins first was giving me a headache.

practice joint
As soon as I put it together I saw what I had done wrong. When I laid the pin side board onto the tail board to mark it, I did it wrong. I had to turn the pin board 180 so that the front side on the edge was now facing the other way. That gave me the 'correct' slant marking for the tails.

got it finally
crappy fit - it's too proud
bottomed out
the other end
This is caused by this side piece being a shade thicker than the other 3 pieces. I'm not going to bother trying to reuse this till and I made a whole new till from the ground up.

ganged sawed the tails 

chopping the pins
I did most of the saw cuts with the Zona saw. I ganged sawed the angled cut on the tails with my LN dovetail saw. I sawed the half pin saw cuts with the Zona saw individually.

back to my mastery
The first small till I had done all the sawing with the LN dovetail and I think that those saw cuts were too rough and caused my loose joints. This time after using the Zona saw the till is self supporting. The joints are snug and shaking this did nothing to loosen any of the joints.

glued up and squared
This till joinery is good enough to glue up and put aside until it sets up.

big till fits
It was little snug so I planed the sides and until it slid R/L, L/R easily end to end.

both tills
I may make a third till to fill in the hole. I don't see much of an advantage to having sliding tills and this small hole. This is a small toolbox and storage is at the head of the class here. It may be a PITA to lift out tills to get access beneath but it is what it is. I can sleep on the third till for a while and making it will be dependent on what tools I get for Miles.

needs to be cleaned up
I will plane this up and make it pretty tomorrow. I don't want to stress the joints until then.

handle idea
My first idea was to put this scrap of wood in between the side of the toolbox and the till. On this side it would be in the same spot where the chain is attached. I also thought of sawing a handle hole in the till and backing it up with a brass plate. This is the latest idea to grab hold of my limited attention span.

this would work
I have the room to do this and not have any interference from the tills or the contents. The big till needs handles or something to help with getting it out of the toolbox but I'm not liking my choices so far all that much.

the marking gauges fit in the bottom
I can slide the till over the marking gauges which I wasn't expecting.

won't fit in the top till
This is where I wanted to stow the marking gauges but no joy there. Stopped here for the day because it is a bit uncomfortable in the shop with the humidity today. I'm wrapping up the toolbox for now and my next adventure will be some much needed maintenance. Maybe

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What are the seven seas of the world.
answer - Antarctic, Arctic, Indian, North Pacific, North Atlantic, South Pacific, and South Atlantic

Barn the Spoon

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Sun, 09/17/2017 - 3:06pm

I’m working on getting Barn the Spoon to come back to Plymouth CRAFT’s Greenwood Fest next June. He’s supposed to be checking his schedule & getting back to me…but he’s probably busy turning the world onto spoon carving. I met Barn last summer when I finally made it over to Spoonfest (the inspiration for our Greenwood Fest) which he & Robin Wood started 6 or 7 years ago. Right away, I knew I like Barn. He’s infectious in a good way. Attending one of these festivals is just an incredible experience. Not everyone can make it of course. Barn has you covered. I just saw an announcement about the American version of his English book Spon.  Here’s the blurb about the English version. I can’t imagine how different the American version can be – https://barnthespoon.com/courses-books-gifts/spon-learn-to-carve-spoons-with-barn-the-spoon

But it gets better. Barn and his colleagues at the Greenwood Guild run many courses both in London and Bristol, http://thegreenwoodguild.com/ – “but I’m a long way from there, what do I do?” you ask…

Video. You sign up for Barn’s spoon carving online membership. £7 per month, let’s see – equals $9.51 today. http://thegreenwoodguild.com/protected-content-2/?redirect_to=http%3A%2F%2Fthegreenwoodguild.com%2Fonlinemembership-2%2F

Here is a sample video, mostly about an introduction to the knife.



The ever-expanding video library right now has these categories:

The Basics, Tools & Kit, Knife Grips, Axe Work, How to Carve a Spoon, Tool Sharpening, The 16 spoons, Q&A –

I just checked a couple headings – there’s 8 videos under The Basics; under Knife Grips 9 individual videos. 10 under How to Carve a Spoon. You get the idea, lots of information and more all the time.

Some are 4-5 minutes, some in the 20-25 minute range and several are close to an hour long. If you want an immersion experience with spoon carving, and stay at home – this is it. Watch for his Plymouth CRAFT hat…



Roorkhee Chair Part 2

She Works Wood - Sun, 09/17/2017 - 12:38pm
There are many inspirational photos of Roorkhee Chairs to inspire your own Roorkhee project.  I collected a few here.  Hopefully these photos will inspire you to be free to make your legs in the way you’re most comfortable.  As in … Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

Great Tips Get Passed On

360 WoodWorking - Sun, 09/17/2017 - 7:04am
Great Tips Get Passed On

This past week I spent an hour talking with Asa Christiana for Thursday’s 360 W/ 360 Woodworking podcast. Thanks for your time, Asa.  He’s a former editor of Fine Woodworking Magazine (FWW) who is now running his own gig at Christiana Creative, and he’s the author of the new woodworking book “Build Stuff With Wood” (Taunton Press).

In earlier podcasts, we talked about his book, the concept behind the book and about some of the projects in it (podcast #228 and #230).

Continue reading Great Tips Get Passed On at 360 WoodWorking.

A Secret, A Deception and a Mystery

The Furniture Record - Sun, 09/17/2017 - 6:53am

Wanting to do something different, I recently went out to visit a few antique shops. I discovered many things wonderous and mundane as is typical. These three are not as they seem and I find them worthy of being shared.

First up is a desk with a secret. I haven’t seen one of these in a while. I’m not sure if it is my declining skill in finding them or there just hasn’t been one to be found. Whichever, here is the desk:


A handsome Georgian number. Around $3,600 as I remember.

The main drawer bottoms are made of several board that over a few hundred years were not dimensionally stable:


Wood shrinks and splits, who knew?

An appropriately handsome gallery:


Fancy but not to fancy.

A lot of wood in the drawer fronts:


Drawers are not dovetailed.

Nice prospect door:


Brass inlay.

Nothing within the prospect:


Nothing but air. Doesn’t look like there was ever anything in there. That is unusual.

I reached in to see if there were finger notches to push out the letter boxes on either side of the door. I made a discovery:


The entire prospect moved.

An it turns out that the letter boxes come out the back:


No dovetails here either.

There is also a less than obvious drawer above the door:


Not obvious but is it a secret?

Next is the deception. This deception might have worked better when young and the doors hung true:


Things sag as they age. Again, who knew?

The press is actually an armoire:


No shelves or drawers, just green. Is it the original green or at least a historically accurate green?

And now, the mystery. I speak of this large, two piece press, shelves and drawers:


A large, hulking press.

The upper section is shelved:


Not tidy within but that is why there are doors! A good place to hide inventory.

Drawers below:


And yes, they’re dovetailed.

Now, here’s the mystery: how do you access the area between the shelves and drawers? Storage space was always at a premium. I do not believe that the builder would have left the space unused. There are rough sawn board internally above the drawers so the space was not intended to be unused.


There is lots of inaccessible space between the shelves and drawers.

I don’t think the only access to the space is by lifting off the upper section. The carcass is pinned frame and panel construction so nothing comes off or is hinged.

My only conclusion is the access was gained by lifting out the bottom shelves of the upper section, the top over the lower section being left open. Those bottom shelves did seem loose and not part of the carcass. Inconvenient but workable. I didn’t have the time, patience or chutzpah to try so I don’t know.

Then the question is is it a secret or mystery or just something we don’t know because it is not now in common use?

sliding till day......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 09/17/2017 - 3:03am
Saying the tills I made today are tills I believe is a misnomer. Hows that for a ten dollar word meaning that my description of the tills is inaccurate. They are tills, I think, but they aren't sliding ones. I made two of them with a small space between them. So in that respect they do slide about a 1/8" but it isn't  the same as the as a real sliding till.

I'm still at a loss for deciding on some kind of a handle for any of the tills. The two small tills (or trays) on the top aren't a high priority. The bottom, big till, needs some kind of handle help. This one has to come out in order to get to the bottom of the toolbox. Miles isn't going to be using this for quite a while so I have time to cook up a few ideas.

plywood bottom glued on
I got this done about 0830 and I let it set up until after lunch. The solid wood is only 3/8" thick so putting screws in it doesn't make much sense to me. The same goes for nails and once the glue sets nails wouldn't matter. I will be relying on the glue bond to hold the bottom on to the till.

the original toolbox banding
One of these is long enough to give up two cross braces for the bottom.

two braces done
I ripped the bearers for the two top tills/trays and took a break until after lunch.

first batter after lunch
I made the bottom slightly over sized and here I'm flushing the last side.

one thing I didn't want to see
Birch ply usually doesn't have voids like this nor those ugly biscuit shaped plugs.  This void is about a 3/8" deep and I'll have to fill with something. Because of where it is I'm leaning towards filling it with epoxy and filler.

change 2 to the bottom
Actually I made more than 2 changes to the bottom. The first one was to add a third brace to the bottom. After I ripped the banding to the width for the first two, the piece left over I used to put in the middle.

The second change was gluing the braces down. At first I was going to glue and screw them and changed that to just screwing them. My reasoning was it would easier to replace any one of them if needed. On change 3 I went back to glue and screwing them due to the increased strength. Replacing them is still doable but it will involve some chisel and planing I'm sure.

made the screw holes before gluing the braces on
 I glued and pressed the braces in place and let them set for a few minutes before putting in the screws.

5 screws per brace, all of them clocked
the braces
The braces stiffened up the bottom quite a bit. I have a warm and fuzzy about the strength of this holding up to a load of tools now.

Miles's Stanley 71 box
 I got this positioned so the box is below the center and right side brace. It's time to see if the braces will hit it.

braces are fine
If I measured them correctly, the extend past the bearers on the ends about 3/8" down into the interior of the toolbox. I don't see this small protrusion causing any hiccups down the road.

figuring the size of the tills
Neither till is going to be the size I want them. The marking gauges need almost 3" of height and making a till that size eats up 71% of the allotted space. I compromised and made the bottom till the larger space and the two top ones smaller.

stock for the two tills
I briefly entertained making 3 tills. One would be for measuring stuff, ie rulers, tapes etc, a 2nd one for miscellaneous crappola, and a third one for chisels. That idea frizzled out real quick. The measuring till needs to be 13" so I can fit the 12" steel ruler in it. That left roughly 10" for two more tills. I decided to go with 2 rather than one large and two smaller ones.

roughly 3/8" above the till
That space above the big till isn't going to be wasted. I plan on using that by extending the top tills to occupy it.

till side and bottom
Making sure that I am below the top of the toolbox. If I went with 1/8" plywood for the bottoms of the top tills I would have more breathing room here. I'm using 1/4" plywood for strength and that gives me a wee bit less than 1/8" of space here.

single tail tills
I recently saw using blue tape to hold the stock as a tip (Saw Mill Creek ?) and I like it. The tape kept the stock from shifting as I tightened the vise on it.

kept them together
I kept the stock taped and sawed for the half pin. This didn't work that well on a couple of these. The front ones came out ok but on some of the back ones I sawed off the line. On the ones that I did that I on, all errant saw cuts were on the waste side.

chopped the pins
I did these one till at a time. I laid them all out the same but I didn't want to chance mixing the parts up.

Just when you think you have mastered something, you do this. These are the loosest fitting dovetails I've done in a very long time. Eight corners -1 done snug, 1 done kind of snug, 4 loose, and the last two looser. These two I will have to shim after they have set up.

nutso glue up
Because of the loose fit of the dovetails I couldn't glue it and set it aside. I tried clamping it without the squares and got nowhere with that. I couldn't clamp the till square so I resorted to this. This is the larger of the two tills and I was able to get a square on the four corners. I'm hoping that this works and I'll know if there is any joy in Mudville tomorrow.

the smaller till
These dovetails were a bit better fitting but still not good enough to glue and set aside. I could only get two squares for this one.

accidental woodworker

How much does a ten pin bowling pin weigh?
answer - 3 pounds 6 ounces

Week in Review: September 11-16

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sun, 09/17/2017 - 2:16am

I have to admit, it was an interesting week on popularwoodworking.com. The contributors to the Shop Blog brought up a few topics that typically stir conversation. On Monday, Nancy Hiller started a three part series on Linoleum countertops. We had at least one commenter ask, “why?”. Nancy shared her point of view about the historical precedent and the vintage style that many seek in remodeling. I have been eyeing Linoleum as […]

The post Week in Review: September 11-16 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Dutch Resistance

The Slightly Confused Woodworker - Sat, 09/16/2017 - 7:03am

Like nearly every other woodworker on the planet, I built a “Dutch” tool chest a few years back; in fact, I built two. I enjoyed both projects, and it was a good chance to work on several different skills: dovetail joinery, dado joinery, mortise and tenon joinery, joinery, joinery, joinery.

One of those chests I gave to my dad, the other I kept. For quite a while my chest was in my garage with most of my woodworking tools placed inside it. It sometimes sat on my bench, or under it, or under my feet. I bumped into it quite often, every now and again I would trip over it; I bent over countless times to get stuff out of it. Eventually, I smartened up, hung a cabinet and some tool racks on the walls near my work area, and put my Dutch tool chest in the attic.

Here is the plain truth that nobody wants to hear: working out of that chests sucked. It wasn’t a size issue; the chest was easily large enough to hold the bulk of my woodworking tools. It is a simple matter of logistics, too much bending over, reaching, stretching, dropping, knuckle banging nonsense.

I found the best way to work out of the chest was to put it on my workbench so that everything was at eye level. The problem there was it got in the way too much. Of course, I could put it back on the floor after I got everything out, but then all of that stuff was on the bench too. And who feels like picking up and putting down a 100 pound + tool chest four or five times? Not me.

I’ve seen videos where the woodworker removed all of the tools he/or she needed at the beginning of the project and put them on the bench. I suppose that works, but then all of the stuff is on the bench and in the way (unless you have a recessed tool tray, but they are bad news, right?)

Okay, I’m complaining, so what solution am I offering? The same one that has been around forever: mount your tools on a wall rack and store them in a wall hung cabinet.
Everything is at eye level, out of the way, easy to see and easy to reach. I’ve said this before and I’ll say it again: since I’ve mounted my tools on the wall I’ve become a more efficient woodworker. AND, my back feels a whole lot better.

So here is my expert advice: If, for some reason, you travel a lot with your woodworking tools, make a tool chest for transportation. And if you are like the overwhelming majority of amateur woodworkers with tools that very rarely leave your work area, mount your stuff on the wall over your bench. Nothing bad is going to happen to your stuff if it’s out in the open. I live in a high humidity area and I’ve had very few rust issues. Keep your tools oiled (as you should be doing anyway) and they’ll be just fine.

So why rehash a topic I know I’ve already covered? Well, a few weeks ago I was getting some things out of the attic and I saw my tool chest sitting on the floor. It still looked pretty good, and it will certainly still hold tools, so I brought it down the stairs, dusted it off, and sold it for a few bucks.

I mentioned a few posts back that I had sold off some tools (mostly duplicates) and how I surprisingly had no sentimental attachment to any of them. But when I sold my Dutch tool chest I very nearly backed out of the deal. My second thoughts didn’t stem from the sell cost, I was just very reluctant to let go of something I had built myself.

I’m hardly a great woodworker, but I put a lot of time and effort into my projects. For whatever it’s worth, and for all of it’s shortcomings, I thought that my tool chest looked great when I finished it. When I brought it down the attic stairs and briefly back into my garage, it seemed to “fit the scene”. But then I remembered why I put it into the attic in the first place, so I put sentimentality aside and did what I know was the right thing to do. And though I pride myself on being a person who makes the right decisions, the right decision in this instance wasn’t an easy one to make.


Dutch Tool Box

Categories: General Woodworking

The Desk Project – The Wood

The Barn on White Run - Sat, 09/16/2017 - 6:27am

This post is in great part my celebration of a grand circle of friends who provided me with the wood I needed for the project.

In correspondence with the client for interpreting the c.1820 writing desk, it was clear that he wanted something made in the manner of craft technology of the period, and if at all possible, using wood of the period, or at least very old wood.  Since the task of acquiring verifiable 200 year-old mahogany was at best an iffy proposition I simply determined to find the oldest, best wood I could find.  In fact I already owned about half the wood necessary for the project thanks to my own acquisitional proclivities.

Among my inventory was a superb piece of dense, lightly figured mahogany I needed for the veneers that would wrap the box of  the desk.  It was one of the three critical pieces I needed.

The desk writing surface was a second vital component and I sent out requests to everyone I knew who might be able to supply my needs.   Before long a UPS truck bearing the piece I needed showed up in the driveway.  Then a second.  And a third.  And a fourth.  Sean, Ben, and Alf all contributed spectacular pieces to the venture.

One last look through my inventory uncovered the final piece of this particular puzzle, a wildly figure slab of flame crotch that was needed for the veneers on the outer leg elements.

But that was not the end of it.  My friend John brought  a small pile of vintage mahogany with him to the next MWTCA gathering, and I took it off his hands.  Josh emailed me about a stash he had, and delivered it to me.

Then my orthopedic surgeon told me he had a storage unit full of pre-WWI era lumber including some prized mahogany.  I loaded all that was there and headed for home.

In the end I would up with enough vintage, unused dense swietenia to make at least two additional desks and, thanks to the willingness to part with some of their holdings by my circle of friends, I probably will.

Plans done?  Check.  Wood in-hand?  Check.  Ready to dive in?  Uh-h-h-h-h.

Stay tuned.

How to Carve Drawer Pulls by Hand

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 09/16/2017 - 3:00am

There comes a time in every project with doors and drawers called “pull-gatory,” when the struggle of sticking something onto the front of the beautiful piece you’ve just made grinds progress to a halt. I’ve been there a few times, and I’m there now with a little wall cabinet that I’m in the process of finishing. Time to think about drawer pulls. When I get to this point, I try […]

The post How to Carve Drawer Pulls by Hand appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

till fitted......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 09/16/2017 - 1:04am
The last two days have seen a return of some humidity. Today was a little higher than yesterday was. I know this because tonight I sweated up a storm and last night I didn't. We are entering my second favorite part of the year. Nice crisp days and cool nights are coming soon. This part of the year everything is getting ready to go to sleep until my absolute favorite season, spring returns. I bitch about the changing seasons but I know I would miss them if I moved to Hawaii or some other place like that.

The fitting of the till went off without any hiccups in spite of me soaking my T-shirt. I'm regretting now that I didn't stop and get the 1/4" birch plywood for the bottom. I could have glued it on tonight and moved on to making the moving tills to put into it. I'll get the plywood first thing in the AM. What kind of sucks is I have three 4' x 4' pieces of underlayment plywood. But this stuff isn't meant to be used for drawer/box bottoms. They will do for cabinet backs but not for my till bottom.

solid wood bottom
There are too many pieces to this. I am not a fan of multiple boards for a bottom or for any other kind of glued up 'panel'. One way to do this is to use three equal width boards and ship lap them to form the bottom. The bottom is roughly 12" so I would have to account for some expansion. Since the till is a tight fit, I don't have the wiggle room to allow a solid wood bottom.

tantalizing close
The 3 small pieces on the right are all about an inch too narrow. In spite of the expansion hiccup, I tried to get this to work. I put the wide boards on each long side and the smaller piece in the middle. Without the rabbets for the ship laps, it was a 1/2" too short. Plywood wins because I don't have to allow for expansion/contraction.

idea #1
This was the forerunner for me but now that I can see it, I'm not liking it as much. Use your imagination and see plywood filling the whole bottom. The piece of pine is 1/2" thick and 3/4" wide. The idea was to 1/2 lap a notch into the two sides. Then glue and screw it to the plywood bottom. That would split the bottom span in half and make it better able to handle the load of tools in it. What I don't like about it is division it makes. Doing this divides the bottom of the till into two 12" x 12" plats of real estate.

idea #2
Again you'll have to use your imagination to see the plywood covering the bottom. The braces will be a 1/2" thick and about 3/4" wide. I will glue these to the plywood and screw them to it from the inside. I think breaking up the bottom into thirds will be stronger than halving it. These strong backs will project only a little way into the toolbox. These will only stick past the bearers on the ends by a 1/4" or so. I don't think it will be a problem with the contents. And the two pieces will allow the till to be set down on the workbench without rocking. This is the way I'm going to further support the bottom.

cleaning the long sides
I clamped this plywood between the dogs and clamped the opposite end with a couple of clamps. I lightly planed the long edge and spent more time flushing and cleaning the tails/pins.

too tight
I only made one planing run on the two long sides only. I did one more planing run taking light shavings and checked it again.

it fits
I was surprised to see that this fit the length. The left side (front to back) is a little too snug for me but the length dropped in squarely inbetween the bearers.

new piece of plywood
I took the minimal amount off I could. I flushed and cleaned the tails/pins and took just a few shavings between them. This already fits in the bearers so I didn't have to plane to fit it, just clean it up.

left side of the toolbox
This side is still snug and I don't want to plane anymore off of the till. I am going to do all the remaining fitting and planing on the toolbox until I get the fit I like. I started by planing this end on both sides.

used my grandson's #3
I was too lazy to stop and sharpen the iron in my #3 so I used Miles. He said it was ok as long as I sharpened it again.

labeled the bottom
I labeled this so as I planed the box I would be checking the fit with the same orientation of the till. I got a slip in and drop in fit that I was happy with. I turned the till 180 and the fit was snug again. So I will be able to drop the till into the box without checking to see if I'm putting it in the 'right' way, I kept on planing.

I planed both sides of the long sides of the toolbox
I just planed down to the level of the bearers. I went end to end but concentrated the bulk of the shavings on the left side ends.

got it fitted
I got a slip, drop in fit no matter which I put the till in. I switched it 180 the long way and I also tried with the bottom (which I marked) facing up. I'm done with the till and I'm happy with the fit. The plywood bottom isn't going to change the fit.

I opened and closed the lid a whole bunch of times. Some fast and some slow, opening and closing it by holding the lid in different spots. The chain fell into the space and didn't interfere with the lid  closing not even once. I also dropped the lid and the chain still fell into the space. I didn't lose too much in the length doing this, maybe an inch all together.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
The size of an egg tells you the minimum required net weight per dozen eggs. It does not refer to the dimensions of an egg or how big it looks. How much does a dozen large eggs weigh?
answer - 24 ounces

Yet More of the Same only Different

The Furniture Record - Fri, 09/15/2017 - 10:23pm

I’ve recently come across some more furniture that is similar/the same as in some previous blogs. No one piece is worthy of its own blog but taken as a whole, it’ll do.

In April in There are No Rules, I wrote of this chair with this unique leg layout:


Four legs, just not where you expected.

In the past two weeks, I have come across the following:


Four legs just rotated 45°.


In this configuration, the arms supports are carried by legs.

And in Georgia, I found:


A totally different feel.


This one is a bit rough, missing a few parts.


Maybe not even an antique.

In the metal-for-wood category we have:


Looks like wood, welds like metal.

Two more Wooton rotary desks:


One in Chapel Hill,


Looks nice from the client’s side as well.

Another in Monroe, Georgia:


Looks like the one on Chapel Hill.


Like this closed.


Opens to this.

A Hitchcock chair:


Well, not a real one.

A Hitchcock settee?


Probably not.

And a gout rocker:


And now, a word from our sponsor…


A Visit to Takuji Matsuda’s Kiribako Shop: Part 2 – Planing and Shooting Platform for Japanese Planes

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 09/15/2017 - 7:56am

My friend and neighbor, Takuji Matsuda, enjoys the advantages of a western workbench. You read part one of my workshop tour here. But when it comes to planes, Takuji prefers traditional Japanese planes which are pulled towards the body, whereas the Western plane is pushed away from the user. To help Takuji plane surfaces and true up crosscut end grain while working on a simple table that is devoid of a vise, Mr. […]

The post A Visit to Takuji Matsuda’s Kiribako Shop: Part 2 – Planing and Shooting Platform for Japanese Planes appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Book Giveaway: Furniture Fundamentals

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 09/15/2017 - 7:48am
Furniture Fundamentals

When I joined the woodworking team a few of years ago I found myself thumbing through a couple of books in the Furniture Fundamentals series. Exploring those two books,“Chairs & Benches” and “Tables,” – as well as a book that I edited as an addition to the series, “Casework” – made for a great jumping off point for my work with Popular Woodworking. The series offers a lot of great information on how to build some of […]

The post Book Giveaway: Furniture Fundamentals appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Man-Week at the Man Cave, er, Barn

The Barn on White Run - Fri, 09/15/2017 - 7:45am

My recently scheduled barn workshop, “Make A Traditional Workbench,” was mercifully “cancelled” due to the fact that all four of the scheduled registrants notified me they were not coming.  No students, no workshop.  I say “mercifully” because it would have started the day after Barndaughter’s wedding weekend, and I was already worn to a nub.  Nevertheless, my friend John, who participated in the workshop last year and was scheduled to be my teaching assistant for the week, decided to join me anyway for a grand week of man-time in the man cave, a/k/a The Barn.

We had a delightful week of fellowship and working on projects; John concentrated on modifying and tuning up the Moxon-style ripple molding cutting machine while I emphasized bringing my FORP workbench from many years ago closer to completion.  In addition, John being a trained theologian and well-engaged citizen of The Republic, our conversations were vibrant and varied, and by the end of the week we were almost sentimental about our shared experiences.

The success of the week can be summarized in the observation that by Friday afternoon it looked like a tool-and-shavings bomb had been detonated there.  I’ll recount our adventures in greater detail in coming posts.  Stay tuned.

till glued up.....

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 09/15/2017 - 1:22am
Gluing up used to fill me with a lot of apprehension but now it is a lot easier. Most of the easier feeling comes from making better fitting joints. I know I am getting better there because I don't have use clamps to squeeze joints into submission anymore. It's a good feeling when a joints fit nicely and tonight's glue up gave me a warm and fuzzy again.

I am making one big till that won't slide even a frog hair. In that big till I am thinking of putting two sliding tills. These will both be about 1/3 the size of the big one. I will experiment with this build as it is virgin territory for me. I can't do anything wrong because it is for my grandson and it will be his first exposure to it.

my two dovetail saws
The Lie Nielsen is my go to dovetail saw that I use for 99.9% of the dovetails I do. The saw above it is one I had Matt Cianci change from a crosscut to a rip pattern. I think it ended up around 18 TPI. I use this for rip cuts and dovetails in stock below a 1/2" thick.

not a good choice
I used this on sawing the tails and that was ok. I really didn't feel it was better using this over the LN. I had a hard time sawing the pins with it and I only did one end before I finished the other 3 with the LN saw.  When push comes to shove, I didn't think the 3/8" thick till stock needed a different saw other than the LN.

Another point I point I thought about was the size of the plate. Most dovetail saws I see have much smaller plates. This was originally a crosscut tenon saw I got in my late 20's that sat around unloved. Turning it into a dovetail saw to use on small stock didn't up it getting more love. Maybe I'll try it to saw a tenon with it which I've not done yet.

I've read that the thinner the stock, one should use a smaller saw with finer teeth. What I found is that I can at least saw dovetails with stock down to 3/8" thick with the LN saw. These aren't the thinnest dovetails I've done neither. That honor goes to a 1/4" thick box that I sawed the dovetails with a Zona saw. Another point I learned is that dovetails are dovetails and the size of them doesn't matter. You still do them all the same way regardless of the size.

dry looks good
I don't have any 1/4" birch plywood for the bottom. I have some 1/4" underlayment plywood but that looks ugly. Not to mention that I don't think it would be as stiff or strong as 1/4" plywood.  Taking a look at the size of this I'm thinking of putting a center brace in it at the mid point on the long sides.

I got two choices on that. The first is to put it in the interior or apply it to the plywood bottom. If I put it on the bottom I'll have to put at least two so the till won't rock when it is taken out. If it is in the interior it will divide the big till in two. I'm not fond of either choice but I'm not liking the size of that bottom being unsupported further somehow.

two hairs too long
This was hard to decide on. Making it short and have a loose, sloppy fit or making it too long and plane it to fit. I went with too long and I'll plane it. I'll have to be careful because this stock is only 3/8" thick so I don't have a lot of meat to play with.

overshot this
I am not looking forward to planing this and I missed making this a wee bit closer fitting. I did it the same way I overshot the long sides.  It looks like I'll have to find a way to support these long sides so I can plane it.

glued up with hide glue
My dovetails came together good and I didn't need to clamp it.

this was a PITA
I squared it up and it would go out of square. I had to clamp the recalcitrant corner with a square to keep it moving. It will probably be saturday before I get the bottom on this. I don't like stopping at Lowes on the way home during the week. Especially so now that school is open and the buses are on the road again.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
In target archery, what is the bull's eye worth?
answer - 10 points

CAD to CAM to CNC: Part Seven — Programming a CNC for 3D Carving

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 09/14/2017 - 11:47am

My last several posts have been about how the BARN workbench vise chops were designed. In this post, I’ll show you how the CNC was programmed for machining with CAM software. I use RhinoCAM software from MecSoft, but most CAM software programs that can handle basic 3D milling will have similar machining operations. This post is not a primary on CAM or a full explanation of all the settings that […]

The post CAD to CAM to CNC: Part Seven — Programming a CNC for 3D Carving appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Video: How to Choose a Push Stick – Table Saw Safety

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 09/14/2017 - 7:54am

Push sticks? Yes, that is the topic of today’s blog, and it’s also the answer – Yes! Every woodworker has had a close call (or worse) or knows someone who has. Table saws are dangerous and even the experienced get hurt. But before this devolves into a diatribe about table saw injuries, let’s just agree that it’s better and safer to use push sticks when using a table saw. Two […]

The post Video: How to Choose a Push Stick – Table Saw Safety appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Woodworker Profile: Char Miller-King

Highland Woodworking - Thu, 09/14/2017 - 7:00am

As an Atlanta resident and associate at Highland Woodworking, I have the privilege of meeting a lot of woodworker-customer-friends, both hobbyist and professional alike, who are making wonderful things. I’m pleased to introduce you to some of our fellow enthusiasts through this semi-regular dispatch of who’s who in the Highland community. -AH

I met Char in the store when she was signing up for Sabiha Mujtaba’s Fundamentals of Woodworking class, a perennial favorite among woodworkers of all stripes. She told me about some of the projects she had finished for her family and fitting in her woodworking into an already full schedule. She invited me to check out her blog, the Wooden Maven, where I encountered not only an avid woodworker, but an inspiration.

How did you get into woodworking?
I began woodworking soon after undergrad when I moved into my first apartment. There was a platform bed I was interested in purchasing, at the time I could not afford it. I thought, perhaps I could build it. I didn’t have much direction to go on, YouTube was still in its developmental stage. After a few trips back to the furniture store to further inspect the bed, I drew my own plans, borrowed a drill, and purchased a ten dollar battery-powered screwdriver. It took me approximately three months to complete the bed… I believe that experience was the beginning of my love for building furniture. The gratification that came from producing something with my own hands was invigorating. That was back in 2003, since then I’ve been learning everything I can about my hobby-turned-passion.

What are you working on now?
I always like to keep a few projects going at once. Right now I am working on two identical beds. They are twin beds that extend to king size beds. In addition [they have] accessible storage and non-accessible storage underneath. I needed the beds to serve several purposes: a place for my children, room for guests, toy storage, and of course storage for toys that shouldn’t be brought out every day. This was the largest project I constructed from only plywood. I used three-quarter inch PureBond plywood and a Kreg circular saw jig for rip and cross cuts. To give the bed a modern look, I used beadboard wallpaper on the headboard and footboard. To keep the beds as low as possible, I opted for furniture movers strategically placed on the bottom for easy gliding.

Along with the beds, I am putting the finishing touches on a matching children’s fold down desk. I chose pine for this project since it is lighter in weight and an affordable option for a place that will see a lot of use. The tabletop of the desk is covered with a thin polyethylene sheet to make for easy clean-up of paint, markers, or pencil marks. Both projects are paint sprayed with semi-gloss paint and a coat of polyacrylic, a touch of blue paint is used to accent the desk and tie in the bedding colors.

Lastly, I am working on a display case, in which I am using all the skills I learned in Sabiha’s woodworking fundamentals class. The case includes dadoes and the use of an ogee bit. It is made from oak and instead of glass to enclose any special object, I am using plexiglass. It will sit nicely on a mantle for many years to come.

What are your favorite tools? (do you prefer hand tools over power tools, or Japanese saws vs. Western style saws, or an old drill that has been passed down, or a brad nailer that’s just super handy)

I know that I truly enjoy woodworking because I fall in love with almost every new tool I experience. The versatility of each of them and the possibilities are all endless. I recently took a hand plane class at Highland after purchasing my first block plane. I never knew that hand tools could be so involved, it was an eye-opening experience. Hand tools allow you to interact with the wood and have a closeness to it, that you don’t get with power tools. I have to say that hand planes are my favorite for now.

Recently, I started turning and for someone who wants a finished project quickly, turning pens [is] the perfect answer. I do enjoy working with lathes and hope to get more involved in the world of woodturning.

For sentiment’s sake, I still have the little Black+Decker screwdriver I built my very first project with, it no longer works. It is a small reminder from whence I came and a nod to staying humble in my craft.

Amy received her MFA in Creative Writing from San Francisco State University. She is the staff writer at Highland Woodworking. In 2015 she and her dad co-founded Coywolf Woodworks, their hobby shop in North Florida.

The post Woodworker Profile: Char Miller-King appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Dale Barnard Talks About Woodworking Classes – 360w360 E.249

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 09/14/2017 - 4:42am
Dale Barnard Talks About Woodworking Classes – 360w360 E.249

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking woodworker, author and woodworking instructor, Dale Barnard, talks about his path to woodworking, his early education and the many ways he’s attempted to schedule classes for his woodworking school in southern Indiana.

Join 360 Woodworking every Thursday for a lively discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more). Glen talks with various guests about all things woodworking and some things that are slightly off topic.

Continue reading Dale Barnard Talks About Woodworking Classes – 360w360 E.249 at 360 WoodWorking.


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