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Accidental Woodworker

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The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2601125
Updated: 1 hour 41 min ago

drawers are done.....

3 hours 32 min ago
For the purposes of blogging I'm calling the finishing cabinet done.  The drawers are finished and the only thing left to do is paint the fronts of them and the front edge of the two shelves. I may or may not post glamour shots after that. It depends upon whether or not I remember to do it. Tomorrow I can start on something else.


2 came in today
I would have bet a lung I ordered 3 of these, 2 brass and 1 chrome. The packing slip says only these two were what I ordered.

2 1/2" hook and eye
This is the one I'm putting on the cabinet if it fits.

what I was worrying about
The eye plate is oval shaped and at it's widest it about 3 frog hairs more than the thickness of the edge of the door. I can hide that by putting the overhang towards the back of the cabinet.


found some #6 oval head brass screws that fit
tried the replacement screwdriver
It worked this time and I didn't break the tip on it driving the 4 screws.

done
This can be barely seen from the front of the cabinet so I did end up with a naked door front.

A Paul Sellers cabinet
I made 3 of these corner cabinets based on the Paul Sellers video classes. This one has a door and a wooden latch. The stile and the door make a 45° and I couldn't find a store bought latch to fit this situation. I had to make one out of wood.

it works well
Last night I wrote in the blog that I wouldn't use a hook and a screw eye at all (still won't). I would make a wooden one first and after I wrote that I thought of this. I could have made something like this from the start and saved all the money I spent buying hook and eye latches. I'll put the ones I didn't use in the hardware bins.

started with the small drawer
 The first step was to saw off the wild ends of the drawer slips and then plane them flush.

chiseling off the dried glue
I have chipped too many plane irons planing dried glue. This extra step is worth the time it takes.

planed the slips flush
Another advantage of using slips is that you get a much broader surface for the drawer to ride on.

repeat the same steps for the large drawer
the fit of drawers didn't change
had enough plywood for the bottoms
I got both bottoms out of the piece of plywood on the large drawer. The other piece I put back in the scrap pile.

large drawer is square (small drawer too)

I have a slight gap at the front
The plywood is square at the front (on both drawers) because I checked it before I put it it. I have a gap on both sides at the front and none at the back. The only thing I can think of to be the cause is the slips. I must have planed a taper on them. I didn't plane to a gauge line when I cleaned them up.

bottom is solid
The gaps aren't effecting the fit/feel of the bottom in the rabbets. I was concerned about how I would glue the bottom to them. It isn't a concern anymore. The bottom is held tight at the front and the back and that is also keeping it down tight to the rabbet on the drawer slips.


drawer overhang
Normally I leave the overhang to help with removing the bottom if I have to replace or repair it. I didn't use any glue on the bottom at all. It is held in place with 5 brads at the back.

where are the brushes
I like the flush slips better than the rounded ones I have used before.  I will still use the rounded ones in dressers for clothes and things like that. The rounded ones are also easier to install than the flush ones. I made this drawer specifically for my shellac brushes and I'm having second thoughts about keeping them in here.

bigger gaps on the small drawer bottom
 The back has a small gap and I could make another bottom but I'm sticking with this one. The gap won't interfere with things placed in it. The bottom is tapered with it tight at the back and widening as it gets to the front. This bottom is as secure and tight as the one in the large drawer. I didn't use glue on this one neither and secured it with 3 brads at the back.

this will be my glove drawer
sawed out both finger holes
I keep forgetting that I have a very good, decent coping saw now. It is an absolute joy to use a coping saw this nice. Well worth all the dollars I ponied up for it. I rasped the cutout after sawing it and finished by sanding it with 100 grit sandpaper.

go cart at the top and a Rolls at the bottom
I have used a lot of coping saws over the years and none worked that well. The common problem with them all was tension. They just couldn't set and maintain it. This red saw is unbelievable in it's rigidity. I haven't flexed or bowed a blade yet in it. With the other coping saws, doing that was a constant headache. The only knock I have against this saw is adjusting the angle of the blade. It is super easy doing it on the other ones but it can be a bit of hassle and a PITA with the red one.

finished drawers

 accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who were the opening and closing acts at Woodstock in 1969?
answer - Ritchie Havens opened and Jimi Hendrix closed

drawers glued up.......

Wed, 08/16/2017 - 4:03am
Closing in on the cabinet being done. I glued the slips on the drawers tonight and I'll let them cook until tomorrow. One thing I'm not sure of is whether or not I have any 1/4" birch plywood for the drawers. The small alignment pieces I used came from the shorts bin and I didn't look to see if I had any bigger pieces. That may put a stop on the drawers come tomorrow.

planing epoxy
I planed the back into the middle and now I have to plane the front going into the middle. This side of drawer didn't get as much epoxy as the other side. This side had teeny weeny gaps.

planed with the 4 1/2
I didn't know what to expect with this. Would the epoxy have solidified in the wood and I would plane out tons of tear out? Nothing happened like that all. In fact I think the epoxy made it easier to plane than it did doing the back of the drawer.  It cleaned up without any tear out problems at all.

this was the side with the big gaps
I forced as much epoxy into these two gaps as I could. I have already done the back into the middle and it's the front's turn.

no problems at all
The left side tail was a bit shallow so I had to take a few swipes there to get it flat with the front. This part cleaned up as nicely and easily as the other three corners did. It seems planing epoxy isn't any different than planing wood. Except with epoxy you don't have to check for grain direction.

flushing the bottom batted next
I did the top yesterday
I checked the fit first before I planed any more off of the top.

drawer fits except for the last 3'4"
This side of the drawer at the top has a slight gap .

this top side gap isn't as large
This is where I usually lose my good fit and end up with something loose and floppy. I looked at the inside of the drawer on the left side and it appears to be ok. This side top of the drawer will get a few shavings taken off of it and nothing taken off the right side.

right side of drawer
The top on this side is ok but the right vertical side up against the cabinet is tight. The slides in easily in and out up to this point and binds. The front 3/4" of this side needs to be shaved.

the other side is the same
Here I can see the clearance between the drawer and the side as I open and close. It is binding in the last 3/4 to 1 inch at the end. I had to shave this front too. The rest of the drawer appears to move in and out without binding or rubbing.

fits and it is up against the back wall
I did this same thing last night. Other than me not being able to extract this drawer, it seated effortlessly. No binding, squeaking, or rubbing the whole way in.

used this yesterday on the small drawer - hooked it at the back and pulled the drawer open
fitted
Both drawers are done. The blue painters tape should be a close approximation of the paint film. I wish I hadn't messed up the first small drawer and I still had my grain flow from one drawer to the other. I like the natural wood look against the painted surfaces. Instead I am going to paint the drawer fronts and the front edge of the shelves too.

need four more spacers
I am squaring up one long and short edge. I'll use them to set the slips.

the plan
I can glue the back of the slip to the bottom of the drawer back and the spacer will hold the front in the correct orientation.

did the big drawer first
I made one change on this and that was to clamp the very front of the slip.  There in no positive glue up at the front like I have at the back. To get a good bond at the front, I put a clamp on the plywood spacer to apply pressure to that area at the front.

this one was bit tricky
Not much room to maneuver with my hands and clamps. This one took twice as long to clamp up as the large one.

large one curing on the tablesaw aka a horizontal storage surface
steel wooled it but......
The top had a few ridges and bumps across the whole lid. I scraped the lid down and I removed almost all of the finish and the bumps. I couldn't get them all scraped out but I got a lot of it. I didn't bother with the underside and I won't be putting anymore finish on that neither.

I settled on how I'm going to attach the lid to the box. I wasn't particularly fond of using a wooden pin nor was a metal one giving me a warm and fuzzy. This box is pine and over time the pin will elongate and oval out the pin hole. I ordered some parts from McMaster-Carr for the box and while I'm waiting for them to come in I can get the finish built back up on the box.

one more coat on
I'll put on a couple coats each night. One after work and another after dinner. I should be caught up when I get the parts.

one of 5 came in
This is a stay put boat locker hook. It's way too big for the cabinet but it would work. I have some smaller ones coming maybe tomorrow. I don't want to use nor do I like the look of a hook and a plain screw eye. I would make something wooden before I would use something like that.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What US City sits aside the Miami River?
answer - it isn't Miami, it is Dayton, Ohio

one drawer fitted......

Tue, 08/15/2017 - 1:27am
It was hard to choose what to expend calories on in the shop tonight. I have the binder box that is mostly complete and it has a couple coats of finish on it too. I am undecided on how I want to pin the hinge arms to the box. Depending upon how that goes, it may add some days before the completion date.

The drawers for the finishing cabinet are now at the fitting stage. I have to clean them up, do the drawer runners, make a bottom, and fit a bottom in place. I kind of did a 90/10 thing tonight with the most calories going to the drawers.

two drawers
Out of the clamps and still square. I had to satisfy my urge to check these in the openings.

the front of the small doesn't fit the opening
large drawer fit
I think if the tails weren't proud of the sides, it would have fit snug this way. The top to bottom is too tight also.

large drawer
The back is tapered so it may fit once I flatten that out. Both drawers are a bit too large for their openings but that should change once I get some planing done.

the gaps are still there
I won't be able to fit this drawer tonight because I have to fill these gaps with epoxy.

the other side
A smaller gap on the opposite side. I could probably ignore this and be ok but since I doing the other side, I'll do this one too.

flushing the top of the big drawer
I had to see if this would at least go in the opening.


one side fits
The left back corner will slide into the opening. The right back corner threw a hissy fit and won't cooperate and go in.

sawing off the wild
I marked the top of the sides onto the back. I ran a line away from that and sawed it off.

flushed the bottom
The bottom won't be getting any more attention. Any trimming to fit the opening will be done on the top. It's going to be painted and I have to allow for the thickness of the paint film.


top flushed up
When I got a continuous shaving going around the entire perimeter I stopped.

cleaned up the sides and the back
I will do the front very lightly when I am done fitting this. There is only a 1/8" at the front of the dovetails and I don't want to thin down the front anymore than I have to.

in about a 1/3 of the way
2nd trimming and I'm about 1/2 way - planing just the top
third trimming and I'm done
I made the mistake of fully seating the drawer in the opening. I had a hell of a time getting it back out. On this trial run I left it proud as in lesson learned.

I'll plug this after I get the bottom and slips installed
flushing the tails
I used to plane the tails flush but I now flush them first with a chisel. Doing that gives me a level starting point for the toe of the plane. I noticed that I was slightly rounding over and not getting the front to back straight. I was planing a slight hump on the drawer sides.

epoxy and filler
It surprises how the white filler turns a beige/pine color when it is mixed with the epoxy.


the compromise
A better fit of the tail and pins would have been the best choice but epoxy saves this from being toast.

4 coats of shellac
I still haven't sanded this back yet. I want to get a good film build up before I steel wool it due to the high pine pitch content of this. This will probably end up with 4 more coats followed by some wax.

squared up one end of the slips
the back of the slips
Doing some trial and error work with the slips trying to figure out the best way to glue them in place.  On problem I'm trying to figure out is whether to glue the slips in place and then fit the bottom, or glue the slips and bottom in all at once. I can see advantages and heartaches with both.

the front look
I cut two pieces of the bottom to act as spacers to keep the slips positioned correctly at the front and back.

the way I'm leaning
I like the idea of the two spacers at the front and back and gluing the slips to the side. Without the bottom in place, I can apply clamps to the slips while the glue sets up. Potential problem - the slips might slip and the bottom won't lay flat side to side.


slips aren't as proud this way
works better than this way
The slip in the middle is the way I was originally going to put them on the drawer. That way about a 1/4" would need to be flushed off. The way they are clamped in the box now I will only have to shave a strong 32nd. And the size of the rabbet for gluing the bottom didn't change at all.
another problem
Since the groove and the plywood aren't a good fit but rather a loose one, with the slips clamped at the front, the plywood spacer is cocked upwards. I think I will position the bottom of the slips to be even with the bottom of the groove. I'll deal with the gap, if any, after the slips are set and the bottom is glued in place. That fun will commence tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
In what Baseball World Series was the Star Spangled Banner first played?
answer -  the 1918 series

two drawers and a box.....

Mon, 08/14/2017 - 1:20am
It was a very productive weekend for me. Saturday was cloudy and overcast with a few periods of rain. Sunday was sunny but the humidity was back. It wasn't as bad as it was last month and with the fan going in the shop, it was tolerable. It didn't slow me down too much and I met my goal of getting both drawers glued up. I was hoping the box would be done and ready to go to work but maybe by tuesday or wednesday it'll be ready.

quiet work
An hour after oh dark thirty I was in the shop working on the binder clip box. I usually work on things like this that don't make noise as I don't want to risk waking up the wife. I flushed the top and bottom and cleaned up the sides. I used this piece of walnut to make some glue blocks for the bottom. I normally wouldn't use them on a box this small but I made the bottom too narrow in the width. I centered it as best I could and the glue blocks will keep it there.

plugged the groove holes
 I was going to put a base on this that would have hid these but I changed my mind. Only me and another woodworker will ever know what the real purpose of the plugs are for. If anyone asks at work (which I doubt), I'll tell them it's a decoration.

didn't get 100%
Three of the corners closed up with no gaps. This corner has a wee bit showing but I'll take it. This is a big improvement over my past results. I may be chasing the wind on this but I want a gap free interior on a  dovetailed box. I'm closing in on it slowly.

there is a lid in there
I don't want a glued up lid so I cut off a piece from this 1x10. I'll thin it down to a 1/2"


both sides have some twist
 The board looked straight and flat before I sawed it off but it rocked on the corners when I put it on the bench.

got one face flat
Getting this board flat and twist free was a PITA. I went back and forth several times between checking and planing before I got it. I was shooting for a 1/2" thickness and I ended up a frog hair under 7/16".

sizing the overhang on the ends
got a ton of tear out
When I ran my gauge line around the board I saw that I had over an 1/8" to hog off. So I used the scrub plane going straight across the board first. I got a lot of tear out but I thought I was ok because I had so much to remove. It didn't all plane out and disappear when I got it down to the gauge lines.

another headache
The the board is full of pitch on both sides. All the orange colored grain lines are pitch pockets.

made mess of this
I had to stop and clean the sole of this several times while scraping this board.

my 5 1/2
I'll have to break this down to parade rest and clean it up. Turpentine works the best at cleaning this but mineral spirits works too.

washers for clearance
There is about a 32nd on the outboard side of the hinge arms. The washers will keep the arms spaced correctly while the glue sets up.


only gluing about 1/2 way
I put the arms on the lid and held them in place for a few minutes and then set it aside to set up.

working on the big drawer front
cleaning out the sockets
first one fitted
the ugly gap
This is my fault because I set the marking gauge a hair shorter than it should have been. For some reason I thought this would give me some wiggle room when it came to fitting it. Well sports fans, it doesn't. What is does is this. Half blinds can't be proud or short in this cut but only dead nuts. Tomorrow after this has set I'll fill itwith epoxy and filler.

making my blind groove
sizing the back to match the front
dry fitlooks good
I am not doing the finger hole until the bottom is in. Once that is done, it would be impossible for me to screw it up again.

drawer slip overhang
I knew that this would go pass the bottom but not this much. Still not a problem as after the glue has set on it, I'll plane it flush.

a look see
Slips are a good alternative to grooving the sides. The bottom is captured at the front in a groove and can be nailed or screwed into the back. The sides aren't weakened by grooving for the bottom.

new look for me
The interior is flush across the bottom going up to the sides. Nothing sticking out into the drawer box interfering with putting things up against the sides.

small drawer parts sized and ready to dovetail
front done and ready to do the back
No hiccups with the front half blinds having gaps. I was a good boy and set the gauge to the exact distance.

I said oops
I made two runs with the plow to layout my blind groove. I was making one more and when I got to this end the plane stalled. I pushed and won. And the plane went right on through the end. Since I would have to plug this one I made it a through groove.

way too tight
The bottom half pin on this side was too tight to fit. It took a few trim and fit dance steps before I got it to seat.

ready for glue up
The back top is wild on both drawers. After the glue has set I'll saw off most of it and plane what is left flush. I glued this up and clamped the tails to close them up and set it aside with the big drawer.


lid ready for finish
The lid has a small chamfer on the sides and the front. I clipped the front corners at a slight angle. I have done round corners and corners clipped at a 45 and I wanted to try something different. I think the chamfer and the corner clips dresses up the lid over a plain Jane rectangle.

The back top edge of the box has to be rounded over to allow the lid to open and close. That is what is delaying getting this out the door today or even tomorrow.

one coat on the box and lid
If I get around to it, I'll come back after supper and put a second coat on the lid. The box will be getting just one because I have to still do some planing on it.

A good day in the shop and it was a wee bit difficult getting myself out of my chair when the wife said dinner was ready. I felt like things had rusted in place and I needed to oil the joints to free them. i think my age is catching up with me.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
This federal holiday was first observed in 1894. What is it?
answer - Labor Day, celebrated on the first monday in September. Canada's Labor day is celebrated on the same day too.

mistakes.....

Sun, 08/13/2017 - 5:09am
Lately my mistake total had been going down. However, over the past couple of days I've wiped out all of my atta boys and got a boatload of aw shits due some brain farts. Everyone makes them, some more than others, and other less than. I'm kind of in the upper middle between the half way and full. I seem to go for a while on the right side of the road and then I end up in a ditch.

I had a bad one yesterday where 3 days of working on a drawer got flushed. I thought I was doing good but not looking to check myself cost me big time. I made an error today (different than a mistake) based on an assumption. I thought something was square but it turned out it wasn't. I didn't lose anything there but it could have been as painful as yesterday's.

Mistakes and making them are part of life and woodworking. I kind of thought I made enough in woodworking already but that keep on a coming. At least the flavor of them is changing but it would nice to finally meet my quota on them.

making drawer slips
This is a left over from the bookcase I just made and I can get two sets of drawer slips out of it.

didn't come out too good
I sawed these out the wrong way. The way I did it still gave up slips but if I had sawn the opposite face it would have been much easier for me to clean up and square them.

one set
The right one is the way I should have sawn out all of them. These two are different sizes but I can still use these on the same drawer. As long as the rabbets line up, what is underneath that doesn't matter. I'm not going to use these for the drawers. I'll set them aside to use on another single drawer.

lot of work on this one
I will have to saw this into two pieces. Square up two faces and then adjust the rabbets to fit the plywood bottom.

got a bead I can use elsewhere
one set of slips done
The board gave up this set and I can get another set out of it.

plow a groove on both edges
saw them out on the inboard side of the groove
clean up the faces next
This face doesn't have to be square. Nothing is referenced off of it and nothing will be attached to it nor will it be a glue surface.

ganged together and planed
this part matters
The rabbet is too shallow for the plywood. I used the rabbet plane to get it to the correct depth. One thing I could have done was to use a wider iron when I plowed the groove. I used the one that fits this plywood. If I used the 1/4" one it would have been wider than the plywood. Instead of making the rabbet deeper, I would have been planing the rabbet flush to the plywood.

final check and tweaking the fit
I put the plywood in the rabbet and moved along the entire length checking for flush. Any spots that were still proud I planed with the bullnose plane.

labeled and stowed
I'm hoping that I don't ignore the labels and mix this up. I'm not sure that they are interchangeable.

new small drawer front on the right
planed to thickness
thought I was planing square with this
loose fit in the opening
I did the loose fit on purpose. I lost my grain flow between the drawer fronts so I'm going to paint them. The loose fit will allow for the paint film thickness. I used this drawer front to get the width for the drawer sides.

two drawer sides
I have some cup to remove
If I was going to groove the sides for the bottom, I wouldn't use this stock. Planing out the cup could make it too thin for that. With drawer slips the thickness of the sides doesn't matter that much. I could probably go down to a 1/4" and still use slips. They are glued to the sides and 1/4" is thick enough for that.

one side is flat and not rocking
I am not going nutso on this and planing it too a gauged thickness. All I am doing is making each face flat and twist free.

this side is twist free
this side has some twist
found my assumption was wrong now
I thought that this was square but it isn't. All four corners are slightly out. I used this to set the width of the sides and they ended up too short for the opening. That is when I knew something was OTL (out to lunch) and the drawer front was the winner.

an exaggeration
Not only is the drawer front off, but the sides are too. There is no way I can use them to make this drawer. The sides can be reused but the front is toast. I can square the front up but by then it would be way too small to use. At least I found it out before doing any dovetailing.

?????
I used this yesterday and I got dead nuts square with it. I didn't jar or change the fence. I used it and put it back here. The only other thing I can think of is I used the 4 1/2 then and today I used the 5 1/2 but that shouldn't make a difference. Or maybe it does.

from the LN 51
I will have to sharpen the iron on the 51 before I can use it to square up the ends. That stripe on this is caused by a chip in the iron.

I can see the chip without help
See the two whitish dots on the edge of the iron on the right? That is where the stripe is coming from.

almost gone
On the bevel side the chip wasn't all that big. It only took about 5 minutes to remove on the 80 grit runway. I  raised a good burr too.

new small drawer front
Planed this to thickness and I got no rocking at the corners. That tells me that this is flat and twist free. I got this done and the new sides and stickered them.

a me box
I need a box for storing some big binder clips. I have a 3 compartment box at work that I made but it is too small for all the big binder clamps. This is a quick project. I ganged the sides together to saw the tails on both at the same time. This is something that I rarely do because I still have some problems getting both side pieces identical.

Here I finally got it, so I gave it a try. It is definitely a time saver and speeds up things over doing each one separately.

sawed and chopped
I paid a little more attention to cleaning out the corners on the tails and pins. It paid off when I put the box together.

off the saw
It's a good feeling having your tails and pins mate up off the saw. Today I got the tails to be 99.90% gap free. I think the extra care I did on cleaning the corners out helped it a lot. The bottom is almost perfectly flush too. I'll be able to make the bottom grooves without flushing the bottom first.

grooves done and the interior cleaned up
I sized the plywood bottom and glued the box up and set it aside to set up overnight.

stopped here
I sawed the tails on the front of the sides and marked the front. I sawed the sockets and the last step for today was the card scraper severing the corners. Tomorrow I'll chop and fit them.

went nutso on the clamping
The clamps weren't necessary as the box joinery was good and would have stayed that way while the glue set. The clamps closed up and seated the tails and pins that extra 0.01%. I'm anxious to see this tomorrow and how the inside looks. With the clamps there were no gaps and hopefully tomorrow it'll be the same.

spare lid
I was hoping to use this on the binder clip box but it is too small. The box is 12x7x4 1/2 and this is 12"x 5 1/2". I want some overhang on the box and I can do it on the front but I can't stretch this and make it longer.

more spare parts
The crest rail was a thought but I changed my mind on that. The arms I am going to use. I will use these as the hinge for the box. I will have to glue up some stock for the lid maybe. I have some 1x10 that I can plane down to a 1/2" to match the rest of the box.

for Bob D
The left drawer has more weight in it then the right one. Both are still chugging along with no hiccups well over a year later. I have rounded slips in both drawers and you can see part of one in the left drawer.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who is Nolan Bushnell?
answer - the founder of ATARI and Chuck E Cheese

but I felt better........

Sat, 08/12/2017 - 4:56am
Last night after supper I screwed the first filter on the camera and headed for the shop. I couldn't figure out on line which filter was which, so..... I tried them one at time.  None of them worked and the pictures I snapped with them all had the fluorescent light halo glare in them. I took 6 pics of the finishing cabinet with each filter from different angles. All of them were the same and I couldn't tell a real difference in any of them.  Other than the one set being a little darker than the others, they looked the same.

After taking the pics I did some web surfacing and found out the filters I have won't remove the fluorescent white halo glare from pics. The filter for fluorescent lights removes a green tint that is associated with pics taken under fluorescent lints. Tonight after work I took some pics of the finishing cabinet that came out a bit better.

my last pic
 I took this one with what I think is the fluorescent filter. The filter is labeled UV and fluorescents give off UV light but it won't remove the glare. From what I've read about photography nothing will remove this. Most lightning that I've seen in the examples has been indirect or in front of the object to be snapped.

much better pic of the finishing cabinet
The fluorescent light to the left of the cabinet I tucked up into the joists. The one above in the pic, I pulled the plug on and I put a desk lamp in it's place.  I used that to put some light in this area because with the two fluorescent lights out it was dark in this spot.

the open shot
I am not putting a knob or a handle on this door. The bottom extends past the bottom of the carcass by about 2-3 inches and that is my 'handle'. I'm trying to find a hook and eye for keeping the door closed. I'm having a problem finding one with the 'eye' plate being 3/4" in width or less. I'll keep looking and I'll find one eventually.

this side is down a 32nd
I flushed up the opposite side and the back and that was it. Any more fitting to get this in the opening will be done on the bottom.

flushed up the bottom
fits almost all the way - got stuck here at this point
cleaned up the back last
This most likely will never be seen but I cleaned it anyways. Sides have been planed too and it is time to check the fit again.

done
This is the look with the drawer in the opening as far as it will go. I may leave this one as is depending upon how the big drawer looks in it's opening.

layout for the finger grab hole
I made the finger hole like a sort of flattened out ellipse. I made a 1/2 pattern so I can get both sides to look reasonably alike. And I can use it on the big drawer too.

last visual check
Last chance to eyeball this and make sure I can get can one of my booger pickers in the hole.

laid out and made relief saw kits
not a good note to end the day on
When I laid this out, I looked for the bottom but there weren't any numbers. I had planed them off a few pics back. No problem I said because the bottom back is short of the sides. Now I know what the bottom is and I  have my reference back. That is what I used to layout the cutout. But on the wrong side of the drawer front.

There is no way I can fix or patch it. It is burnt toast and it pissed me off that I made such a stupid mistake. I was paying attention and being careful to make sure I was working off my reference but I didn't put the finger hole where it was supposed to be.

the before pic

the after pic
And yes I do feel better because I showed that drawer who the boss is. I shut the lights out after this and went upstairs. I have a new shop rule - one big **^@*(*^%#%^*()!!#$#@%^ mistake and I leave the shop immediately.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the largest one day sporting event in the world?
answer - The Indy 500

drawer glued up.......

Fri, 08/11/2017 - 1:50am
As soon as I got home tonight I had to take my wife to go pick up her car. It wasn't too bad traffic wise going until I got to airport road where there was a bad accident. I saw 3 meat wagons leaving the scene and a 4th coming. Going to the shop was ok but I had to drive through the aftermath coming back home. And doing that ate up a lot of shop time.

I do have some good news. I figured out how to put the filters on the camera. I had bought an adapter for the camera, I just didn't know what it's exact purpose was. You take off the existing lens ring (?) on the camera and replace it with this one. You then screw the filter(s) onto the adapter. Got that part figured out and now I have find out which filter is for fluorescent lights and that may be deduced by trial and error.


gaps
I can get my dovetails to come together off the saw and they usually hold together good. What I am continuing to struggle with is this. I usually have gaps on the bottom of the sockets and on the inside.

my interior gaps
Way back when I first started I used to have really big gaps on the inside but that was caused by my chiseling. It took a while for me to see it but I was moving the knife wall in the wrong direction. This gap I think will go away if I can get the tail to seat right down to the bottom of the socket.

pin is very tight
In the first pic of the dovetails, I can see the corners still have a bit of crud in them.

this works great
I used this check the squareness of the pins and tails. Two of the sockets had a slight hump in them so that may be partially the cause of the gap in the first pic.

trimmed the pins on both
I trimmed the pins as lightly as I could. I think I got mostly air with tiny shavings. I lightly cleaned the bottom of the tails also. When I checked the fit again, the gaps were almost all gone but I had looser fit. The box was still together albeit not as snug as before.

as far as it will go
sawing the back off
I left the back a strong 32nd over the sides. I'll plane that when the drawer has set up.

found some old drawer slips
too tight
This groove isn't meant for 1/4" birch plywood. That is alright because this slip is two inches too short to use on this drawer.

loose fit on this slip
I'll use this one because it is about 6" longer than what I need.

the top part is history
The loose fit of this works in my favor. The top rounded part of the drawer slip will be sawn off.

finishing up the sawing
what I'm going to do
All my other drawer slips up to now have been rounded over on the top. With the plywood bottom flush with the slip, there is nothing in the way. I have full side to side access with no humps to deal with.

wow
This is the first drawer I can remember that was square after I had clamped it up like this. Both diagonals were dead nuts 10 5/8" on the top. I checked for square on the bottom and those diagonals were both the same. I don't rely on checking with an actual square but this is small so I did it. All four corners, in both directions, were square. I set this aside to set up so I wouldn't disturb it.

planing the top of the slip flush with the plywood


bonus
I got a small quarter round that I can use on something else.


I like this look better than the rounded slips

Tomorrow I'll glue the slips in place. I played around with them some before gluing up the drawer to get a feel for how to possibly glue them. I got a few ideas and it will be a touchy feeling thing done dry first before I commit to glue.

I'll have to wait one more day before fitting the drawer so it'll be saturday before that goes down. Maybe tomorrow I'll have my normal allotment of shop time and I can start making the second drawer.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the only US State with a one syllable name?
answer - Maine

I wish it were yesterday.......

Thu, 08/10/2017 - 1:24am
Yesterday was a two post day for me. It was the first two blog post this year and the first one I did since the early part of last year. I had kind of settled down and decided that I wouldn't do multiple posts in one day anymore. Yesterday was a gotcha directed at me. I was on my coffee break and I decided to proof read the "....like it was yesterday......" post. Had my usual brain fart with that and hit the publish button instead of the save button. That post was meant to be published on Thursday. Since it was already out there I finished proofing it and left it.

Wednesday night after work I would be dropping my wife's car off at the shop for her RI car inspection. So I knew I would be getting little if any shop time. I had started writing that blog post on Tuesday and I had planned to publish it on Thursday. Didn't happen sports fans. I smacked the ball off the wall but got called out at second base.

I have a bit of a streak going with blog posting and I didn't what to break it with something caused by a stupid mistake. Heart attacks and hospitalizations would be a good excuse for breaking the chain but hitting the wrong radio button isn't.

I won 3 out of 4
I lost out on a reprint of a Stanley catalog from the late 1800's but I got these 3.  I see catalogs fairly often on Josh's site so I will have to be patient and one will show up again. I just have to remember the ones I do have and don't buy another duplicate.

3 astragals
I am done buying astragal planes. This haul is a 1/4", 3/8", and 5/8".  With these three the herd is complete. I bought these all from Jim Bode and all are stamped with the size on the heel. The 1/4" one is marked with just an upside down 2.

1/4 to 7/8 by 8ths (right most 6)
I haven't seen any 16th sizes for sale nor I have seen any in my catalogs. Two of the astragals I got today are american made and one is english. I'll road test them later as I have way too many other things on my plate now.

I was able to squeeze in some woodworking
I thought my wife wanted to go to the shop right after I got home but she was agreeable to even going after dinner. I had ample time to saw, chop, and fit the back. I've got everything lined up the way it will go together. I leave it this way and mark one end with it's side. Repeat for the other end.  Doing it this way and seeing it on the bench helps me keeps everything straight and on track.


fit off the saw
the other side
It fits but not well on this side. The pins needed to be trimmed a wee bit. I left the top running wild and I'll saw that off before I glue the drawer up. I'll do the final trim and fit once the drawer has set up and it is time to fit it in the opening.

After we dropped the car off we decided to go out to eat. I was able to get fish 'n chips (on a wednesday) and I was disappointed in it. The fish portions are getting smaller and smaller it seems the taste is not what I remember it too (didn't taste like cod or haddock). Makes me think whether or not my grandson will ever know what fish 'n chips tastes like.

After dinner was done and we were home, I went back to the shop and trimmed the pins on this side. The tails and pins came together gap free. Tomorrow I'll glue it up and work on the drawer slips.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What US State's official flower isn't a flower?
answer - Maine, whose official state flower is the pine cone (pine cones aren't flowers)

like it was yesterday.......

Wed, 08/09/2017 - 5:39am
It was a Saturday and I was vegging out in my chair. I was drinking an iced coffee watching PBS TV with my son in my lap. I don't remember the exact  year but it was the last part of the 1970's. This was the first time that I had seen him and it was like watching a magic show to me. Who was it? It was Roy Underhill and he hooked me real good. From this point on I watched him every single Saturday. Over 30 years later I'm still watching even if it is a rerun I know the dialogue by heart I've seen it so many times.


I was a wanna be woodworker then and what I saw him doing with common hand tools enthralled me. I can still recall thinking just how in the hell is he doing these super magical things like this. He has to be doing some TV stop motion trickery. How is it possible that he is able to do things like this with hand tools? Surely you need power tools to make things out of wood today.


I am a self taught woodworker. Some will pooh-pooh that and say it isn't possible but for me it is the way I learned. I bought some books, a few tools that Roy said to get, brought home some pallets, and starting woodworking. I read and then did. Made a lot of mistakes and learned a lot by trial and error. No one was looking over my shoulder telling me how to do it. All I had was Roy on TV, a desire to learn, and the few woodworking books I had.


Lately Roy has been supplanted by Paul Sellers. From him I have learned so much and have progressed farther than I thought was possible. With Paul's instruction it is still trial and error woodworking for me. But that is good thing. My trials are getting smaller and my errors are getting fewer. I still don't have a mentor or a teacher helping with a physical presence.


That to me is being self taught. Self taught is seeing or reading and then trying it out on your own. I can watch the video for a month but I still need to get out in the shop and try it. I have to put in the time and effort to duplicate what I've seen. That is something I'm doing alone. No coaching, no cajoling, no advice being offered, and no Q&A's except with myself.


I can look back and remember things I attempted then and doing the same thing today. Then it was hesitant with so-so results. Now it is done without thinking and with pretty good results. I can see a definite improvement in my skill level.


One thing that I taught myself to do was to hand cut dovetails. I've written about this before. To be brief, I had a Lehigh dovetail jig and boatload of accessories. I sold them all and bought a Lee Valley saw and 14° dovetail sawing aid. I took me a couple of months but I finally made a hand sawn dovetail box that I still have.


From that point forward I went a little nutso making dovetailed boxes. For well over a year I think I averaged a box a week. It was a magical event for me to saw and chop out the wooden parts and then have them fit together.


I have since boosted my capabilities with dovetailing. It has become second nature to me. I still have an occasional brain fart but for the most part I do good with them. I have also learned some better ways from Mr. Sellers too.


This is a lot of keyboard diarrhea to make my point and it is simple. Having all the latest and greatest boutique or antique tools don't mean diddly squat. Having your tools so sharp that they could slice air don't mean diddly squat. Owning every woodworking DVD ever made don't mean diddly squat. Subscribing to every Woodworking  teacher out putting videos don't mean diddly squat. I think the most important thing is making things.


It doesn't mean diddly squat if it looks good or looks like crappola. You have to put in the time on the pond (practice and experience) if you are going to get better at woodworking. There is no substitute for it and it don't mean diddly squat if you are self taught or you have a teacher/mentor.


This is the reason why I think I have the skill set I do now. It is the culmination of various inputs but the biggest piece of the pie is practice. Right or wrong, good or bad, you have to keep trying it until you get it right or at least to the best of your abilities.


accidental woodworker

drawer #1 pt III..........

Wed, 08/09/2017 - 1:24am
The saga continues but in a different vein. I made a pit stop after work and my favorite milk was nowhere to be seen. That didn't put me in the right frame of mind because I had to settle for another brand. I bought it and headed for home only to find out that I forgot my thermos at work. I have a bowl of cereal at work for breakfast but maybe not tomorrow. Good thing there is a 24hr Dunkin' Donuts across the street.

I can survive the off brand of milk but I had no soda neither. I forgot to get that and it is in the aisle directly opposite where the milk is. Which I didn't go down because my milk was sold out and that screwed up my whole itinerary through the store. I went to the drugstore and got a bottle of soda and I'll get more on another pit stop tomorrow.

which way do I go on this
The first fix I thought of was to cut off the tails and restart.

thought of this next
I could make a dado for the back. I could also leave the tails on as a reminder of my brain fart. Then I thought if I'm going to make a dado I didn't need the reminder.

changed back to the first idea
Changed my mind again and I'll redo the dovetailing. I will lose less depth in the drawer if I do dovetails vice a dado. Dovetails are a bit more work but I like the look of them over a dado.

the ubiquitous X
In addition to having my numbers on the bottom I added a double triple checker X too.

last nights layout
I used the marking gauge to set the bottom line. But I did it from the wrong side. 


how I set the marking gauge
this is the wrong way and how I did it yesterday
I have to mark for the bottom the same way I set the gauge - with the head at the top and the knife at the bottom. Yesterday I didn't do it this way. I should have checked my numbers but didn't. They would have told me right away this was toast.



the knife end of the gauge has to be on this edge with the numbers
the proper way - not enough meat to saw straight down and reuse
I sawed off the tails, and squared up the edges.

making sure the ends are flush
marked out both sides separately
Yesterday I had ganged the sides together and marked both at the same time. I usually do each one separately and that is the way did them tonight.

last of the triple double checks
The bottoms of the sides line up with the groove at the front. I'm ready to saw and chop them out.

the ends aren't that far over
The sides cover the ends by about an 1/16". I don't need a groove in the sides because I'm using drawer slips.

sides cover the stopped ends
drawer slip
I will be trying out a new drawer slip for me this time but the ones I used on past drawers would work here too. With the drawer slip up against the side any gaps here will be hidden.

got my replacement screwdriver in
my camera filters
One of these is a fluorescent light filter. I say one of them because they are not marked as to which is the one for fluorescent lights. Nor are they marked with anything I would understand to be used for fluorescent lights. I'll have to spend some quality time on line and decipher the hieroglyphics on the filters.

On a bright note I did figure out how to remove the lens ring on the camera. On a not so bright note I'm feeling as smart as a box of rocks about how to put the filter on the camera. I think I need an adapter because there is no way the filter is able to fit on the camera as is. I tried all kinds of dance steps and never got my card punched once.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What are the new seven wonders of the world?
answer - Chichen Itza, Mexico  The Great Wall of China  The "Christ  the Redeemer " statue in Brazil  The Taj Mahal, India  Petra Jordon  The Colosseum, Rome   Machu Picchu, Peru   (I've seen two of them)

working on drawer number one.

Tue, 08/08/2017 - 1:12am
I don't like taking pills. Even if they are supposed to be helping me. Unfortunately, one of those pills enables me to work in the shop and play woodworker. The pills don't keep me totally pain free, it mostly keeps my strength intact. My biggest problem with the pills is I forget to take them. That caught up with me today to say hello. My hands have hurt all day long and I kept dropping things I thought I had picked up.

I am going to have to take my head out of my butt and pony up to taking my two blue pills a day. The one time that I did take the pills for a week, twice a day, I felt good. This sporadic pill regime I am using now isn't working. Just like the old Fram Oil Filter commercial, it's a pay me now or pay me later.  I am going try to take one at breakfast and one a dinner and see if I can make that a habit.

fingers crossed on this
The paper hadn't stuck to the wood when I took the clamps off. That could be taken as a bad or a good sign. The front looked ok and it'll clean up and I doubt I'll be able to see the fix.

still fits
It seemed to me that the fit now was a little snugger than before. The side is still a sheet paper proud of the front too.

sizing the back
I was going to use through dovetails at the back. Doing that meant the back has to be the same length as the front. The top to bottom will be different. The back will be the same as the distance from the top of the drawer to the top of the drawer groove. I just did the length and the top/bottom I'll do later.

been using my bench planes more for this
I haven't seen any difference in using my bench planes to square end grain over using the LN 51 shooter. I've been using the bench planes because iron in the LN51 doesn't stay sharp for any appreciable length of time. The 4 1/2 will do 2 times the shooting that the LN 51 will do.

It took me a while to get used to using the bench planes to shoot with and I'm starting to prefer using them over getting the LN 51 out. The added plus is the bench planes are already out and I can go from shooting to planing something else without moving a step in any direction.And use the same plane to do it.

I can't do it
If I bury the drawer bottom groove in the tail socket at the lowest I can go, the bottom of the groove is 5/8" up from the bottom. Add a 1/4" for the drawer bottom and I have lost over an inch of drawer space. If I drop down and use a stopped groove it would be below the minimum groove above it.

made a partial groove with the 043
I used what I was able to plow to set my marking gauge so I could extend the lines to the stop points.

I used the 1/8" chisel to get the groove lower and to deepen the ends. Then I used the router to get the groove to depth.

it's slow going
In spite of the slow going, I'm feeling good about how clean this stopped groove is coming out so far. I had one small glitch at the far end with the 1/8" chisel. I went off to the right a bit and I removed part of the knife line. It is on the bottom and won't be seen.

down less than an 1/8" and I want to go to a 1/4"
finally got to depth
I didn't want to strain this router by taking too big of a bite, so I went low and slow. In the end I got a good fit with the plywood bottom in the groove. It also came out a lot crisper looking than my last attempt at making a stopped groove.

I sawed the tails on the back sides
After I chop the tails I can mark the back for the width.

this is the bottom of the drawer
but it is opposite of where it should be
The bottom should be where the groove is. I can flip one side and get it to fit in the front. The other side is off too much to trim and fit it. I would end up with unacceptable gaps in both tail sockets.

I followed my numbers
This is my habit when I do dovetails. I number the four corners and make it the bottom. I do any referencing or measuring from there. I did the same thing tonight. What I did wrong was I used a marking gauge to set the bottom square cut on the ends. What I didn't do was look to make sure I was doing it from the correct end. I didn't.

I can salvage this but I'll end up with a smaller front to back on this drawer. I will try and do that the right way tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
This sound can be identified by 96% of the people who hear it in 2 seconds or less. What sound is it?
answer - the ice cream truck

had a very late start......

Mon, 08/07/2017 - 1:24am
It doesn't happen often with me, but today I didn't make it to the shop until after lunch. I was doing woodworking related things from oh dark thirty till then - I was searching You Tube (not all woodworking), reading blogs, watching my new DVDs. So in a sense I was woodworking but in a different way. When I did finally get to the shop I really had to motivate myself to get going. I finally got it together and actually got a few things done and another started.


door is done
I did get the second coat on the door before I went to bed last night. I also made a huge rookie mistake wherein I forgot to clean the brush after I was done. The last time I did something like that I was teenager. Now I will have to buy another sash brush. I've tried products to clean brushes loaded with dry paint but I never used any that worked. The brush just isn't the same after using these cleaners.

cabinet
I am kind of growing fond of this color. The two coats I got on this and the door both look good. There aren't any holidays or light areas. It must have heard my declaration of only two coats and no mas.

I like this screwdriver
I like the handle of this a lot. It has a lot of facets and angles and dangles and it just feels good when I grip it. It fits my hand perfectly and it doesn't feel short like the Grace screwdrivers do in my hand. This also has a 'nut' where the shaft meets the handle. You can put a wrench on it and really get some torque generated.

I already know the Grace screwdrivers can't handle that. I am hoping that these screwdrivers can handle an occasional Cro-Magnon way. The tips are hardened but so are the Grace and Chestnut screwdrivers. And I've broken the tips off of both of them. I am encouraged by the nut and wrench adaptation on the felo screwdrivers. My thoughts are that why do this if the tips and shaft couldn't handle it? I'm anxious to see how it performs when I do use some wrench assistance.

It did a good job driving the screws in on the pine of this door. There was no slop in the head of the screw and the screwdriver and no problems driving any of these screws.

hinges installed
I took the hinges off of the door because was easier to do that then door. When I painted it I didn't slop paint into the mortises. I was careful to paint around them so I wouldn't get a thick film of paint built up in the mortises. I did paint the mortises with a dry brush (almost no paint) just to color the mortises so no white wood would show.

door hung
It is hung and no hiccups driving the pins home with my fingers only. However, once the door was closed it slowly opened up to this point.

checked the plumb again
It is slightly off which means something slipped when I screwed the thing-a-ma-bob to bottom of the cabinet. I unscrewed it, plumbed the cabinet again with a single big wedge, and screwed the thing-a-am-bob on again. This time I didn't assume and I checked it for plumb and it was.

door stays closed now
got one brace installed
I made myself a ghost stick when I put this side brace on. I clamped two pieces of wood together that exceeded the height of the shelf.  I then wedged it underneath the shelf at the center front until the bubble was centered in the level. Screwed the brace into the shelf at my leisure.

the right side cleat
This one has to be longer than the left side.

went high on this side to clear the pipe hanger
I didn't want to take this down and move it so the hanger on this side would be the same as the other one. Where the shelf is now is working. It's away from the clamp rack on the left, I can get to them and the hacksaws, and my lighted magnifying glass. This worked so I was happy with it and the fact that they don't match doesn't bother me. One last point with the shelf - I lucked out with the height of it and it is about 2" higher than the top of my head.  Sometimes you get lucky.

done and partially loaded up
This shelf is wider and longer than the one that was where the finishing cabinet is now. I have some extra horizontal real estate for some crappola.

Shelf #1, #2 coming shortly
I have one more of these from the old kitchen cabinets. I have enough room for it in the space above my clock. Once I get settled in with this whole area, I'll revisit it.

draw fronts fitted
big drawer parts
This one will be done last.

the little drawer is batting first
I sawed and squared up the sides for both drawers. I made the length so that the finished drawer will be inset in the opening about a quarter of an inch. I don't plan on putting knobs on either drawer. Instead they will get a circular cutout for a finger grab.

doing half blinds
I sawed, chopped, and marked the tails on the front. I am using a scraper to finish the saw cuts down into the corners. I do not over cut my half blind dovetails. I don't like it because to me it appears to be sloppy. I know it is an accepted practice to do but I am anal enough that I will do it the hard way.

almost chopped out
I got this from watching Richard Maguire doing half blinds. He chopped most of the waste with the board down on the bench and then put it vertical in a vice to finish it. I don't have a lot of time on the pond (Navy talk for experience) but this is my third time doing it this way and I like it.

first side fitted
It is a bit proud of the front by maybe a sheet of paper. I expected that because I purposely set my marking gauge a frog hair less than the thickness of the sides. My last half blinds at this step were below the sockets. I would rather be proud and plane it flush.

oops blew it out
clean break but still sttached
It goes from side to side and down about 2".

I don't have the before pic
I know why it split and blew out on me.

this is why
The scraper cut I did first extends all the to the gauge line on this socket (also on the first two I did). On the one that blew out, the right side was shy. The scraper cut didn't meet the knife line and when I chiseled down on the knife line, the corner didn't chisel off cleanly. The chisel coming down straight had no one to go but backwards. Something I'll be mindful of when I do the other drawer.

good fit anyways with a understandable gap on the left one
better when the blowout is closed up
Do I glue it back now or do I glue it when I put the drawer together?

glued it now
I decided to glue it now for one reason. If I glue it now I can still trim and adjust the fit of the joint. If I wait and try and do everything at once I could end up with toast. The blowout could break off entirely or it could shrink and distort the fit. I double triple checked it 4 times that I had cleaned all the glue squeeze out from the socket. I will let this set up until tomorrow.

watched the left one and some of the right one
The baker's table DVD is by NR Hiller who just wrote the book "Making things work". She was trained in the english style in England in the 1970's and the DVD shows that. I learned a lot from this, some of it was new and there wasn't much I wasn't aware of.  What I learned was a different perspective and a new way of looking at and solving some common woodworking problems.

Nancy is smart, knowledgeable, and definitely knows which of the chisel to hold. If there was only one thing to like in this DVD it would be her explanations. She has three majors areas she deals with; fitting a drawer, fitting a door, and mortising hinges. I learned something new on all three from her.

I was expecting more hand tool work on this (not much at all) and I didn't see a lot hand tools in the background.  She used a Marples blue handled chisel to chop the dovetail sockets and to square rabbeted corners. A Lie Nielsen O1 chisel was employed to do the hinge mortises. She also used a #4 hand plane and other then a handsaw, all the other joinery was done with machines. Even here she explained things and did it very well.

What I liked a lot was she explained each step of the construction of the baker's table. She went over the reasons why, some common problems, and some solutions. She did not come across as a know it all nor was she in the least confrontational. This was her and how she made the table. It is now up to you to make the table your way.

One thing struck me afterwards and that was she didn't clean and make everything pretty before gluing up everything. You get to see the burn marks etc till the very end. There is always one 'you shoulda....." and Nancy's was there was no glamour shot of the finished piece. The pic on the DVD dust cover isn't the same thing as seeing it in the DVD.

I enjoyed this a lot and I'm sure I'll watch it again because how often do I get the chance to see a lady woodworker wearing boots, making something? I hope that no one takes that as sexist because it isn't meant to be. There is a lot to learn from her in this DVD.

milk paint
I have used milk paint twice and both times were a learning experience to put it politely. I would rate both a 2 on a scale of one to ten. I want to use milk paint on my grandson's dutch tool chest and when I saw this on Elia's website I bought it. The price was paid when he explained how to get the right viscosity with the paint (big problem for me). I will watch the rest of this later and give my take on it then.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
On a formal dinner place setting, what is the order of the 3 forks to the left of the plate?
answer - from left to right, salad fork  dinner fork dessert fork

I'm a day early.......

Sun, 08/06/2017 - 2:25am
Surprised even myself today. I got the finishing cabinet hung one day early. No door on it yet but the cabinet is hung and awaiting it. I also gave myself a new project to do. I got the stock for it but it will have to wait until later. I have a few others things to get done first.

before I made the Pepin Lumber run at 0700
 I brushed shellac on all of the M&T's and on the putty too.

Durhams Putty
Putting shellac on this wasn't necessary but I did it anyways. After the painting experience I had with the bookcase this is a just in case thing.

big black knot
These are the type of knots that continue to dry out and eventually fall out. This knot goes straight through to the other side. It feels tight so I hit with shellac and I'll paint over it.

painted the back of the door
painted the carcass
I am only putting two coats of paint on this period. After the second coat of paint has dried I will put on a coat of shellac. The shellac will make it easier to dust. As for the paint job it will be what it is after two coats. Shellac and first coat of paint done so I headed off to Pepin Lumber.

my haul from Pepin
I bought six 1/2" x 6" x 5' pine boards for making my twist box but I only need one of these. This is good stock for making drawers and it is only $5 a board. It's a little high for only 1.25 bf but it is very convenient. I wanted to get some Durhams Putty too but Pepin doesn't sell it.

haul from Lowes
After the Pepin Lumber run, I made one to Lowes to get the Durhams Putty and the stock for one of my next projects. This stock is going to be an in/out box for work. I can get one from work but it's plastic and only two trays. I want a wooden one with three trays. I don't want the stock to do stupid wood tricks so I clamped it all together and it will stay that way until I start the project.

I rarely use these hand screws so they won't missed.

making a french cleat
My first choice for sawing this was to do it horizontally but I thought it was too awkward of a saw cut to do at a 45° angle that way. My least favorite way of sawing is vertically but I had no choice here.

starting to wander a little
trying to saw it all from this side
I still have trouble getting my saw kerfs to line up when I switch a board to finish the cut coming from the opposite direction. I was able to finish the cut entirely from this side.

looks good this way
not so good this way
I got a wee bit of dipsy doodle to deal with on the bottom cleat.

off the line a lot but just in one spot
This is the backside of the saw cut that I didn't check to see how I was doing. I concentrated solely on following the line on the front.

two here and a third one I didn't get a pic of
I had to make 3 knife lines because I couldn't get a 45 marked from the front going to the top back.

finally got it
good match on this end
this end has an unacceptable gap
how I planed the 45
I first did this with it in the face vise and I didn't like planing in that orientation. This way I liked because I felt I had more control over where  and how much wood I was removing.

not making it any better
Giving myself a headache trying to determine where this is off. The other end looks almost seamless and the face side gap looks good. But something is obviously wrong on this end.

I planed a hump in this one
45 on both end to end now
not as good as the other side but it'll work
more vertical sawing
I couldn't do it horizontally and this is the other half of the french cleat.

they don't have to be the same size
I lined up the 45 peaks and scrubbed most of the waste. I squared it up and planed it straight.

I can feel square now
After I planed this smooth I ran my finger tips up and down it and I could feel that the right side was high and out of square.

nixed this idea for the cleat
I was thinking of putting a rabbet on the ends and the top. I thought that would make the cleat stronger but it would also make it smaller on the bevel. I don't think making that smaller would help and would probably decrease it's strength.

screwed it to the carcass at the top and sides
needs a spacer for the bottom too
I sawed and planed a piece to go at the bottom of the cabinet to keep it in line with the top. I don't want the cabinet to lean/tilt into the wall at the bottom.

second and final coat on the back
I'll let this dry for a few hours, flip it, and paint the front. Before I hit the bunky(bed) I'll put the second coat on the front.

wow it looks so different emptied of all the crappola
all the crappola ended up on the workbench
it is clear
The cellar bumps out where it goes from cement blocks to the poured foundation. I checked for plumb from the board to the top of the cabinet and I have about an inch of clearance between the level and the wall. I can't reuse this cleat because it is hung too low. The bottom of the cabinet would be 5" off the cabinet beneath it. I want more space there to stow things.

clearance dadoes
I got a new hanger hung on the wall and leveled it. The screws are proud of the face so I made some dadoes so the cleat will lay flat on it.

hanging on the cleat and it is level
out of plumb by 1/8"
five shim pieces and I'm still not plumb
new plumb thing-a-ma-bob
I stuck more shims at the back of the cabinet until I got the face plumb. I will screw this to bottom of the cabinet up and up against the wall. This won't move whereas the shims could fall out.


done
The end up against the wall is beveled a few degrees to make fitting it easier.

old kitchen cabinet part
I think this was a fixed shelf and I'm going to use it to make a new shelf for the radio. The cabinet ended up too close to the floor joists and there is no room to put the radio there.

possible new home
sandpaper box
I made this over 30 years ago and I think I may have to put it out curbside. I can't get this side seated again.

the other side is still seated
from the front it looks ok and it still works
who uses plane socks?
I don't have a rust problem in my shop. I do get occasional rust spots but nothing even minor. I bought this sock for my bullnose plane and it rusted up on almost the entire plane. I thought I had thrown this away.

knobs
My daughter gave me these knobs for xmas a few years ago and I found them today. I think I might use one of these on the cabinet.

got the shelf ready to hang
gas pipe is in the way
I want to put the vertical hangers inbetween the joist and the gas pipe. It isn't going to happen because I can't screw through the pipe.

level only across the front
I didn't want to put it this way because it sticks out too far. It'll have to do because I need a home for my radio. I'll have to figure some way of securing the front edge of the shelf. It is sagging under it's own weight and I can't put anything on this as it is.

figured out something that might work
this is doable
The only hiccup I see with this is reading the bubble, holding it there. and then marking this end so I can saw it out.

another hiccup on this side to deal with
The pipe hanger is in the way. I want to put this so it is on the outside of the shelf. With the pipe hanger in the way I will have to put it on top of the shelf rather then on the side. I can fix this easily but just moving it over to the left a couple of inches.

change to a bigger bearing plate is coming next
first coat on the front     second one before bedtime
trying a new set of screwdrivers
I got comment that these screwdrivers were pretty good. He wrote that he has been using a set of these for over 5 years with no problems. I'll give them try and if I like them I look for square drives if they make them.

This is it for today. I'm tired and a wee bit sore but I feel good about what I got done today.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the most used appliance in US households?
answer - the TV remote

no take out tonight.......

Sat, 08/05/2017 - 2:56am
First off let me apologize for the blog post that isn't there. I started to write it and instead of hitting the save button, I hit the  publish one. Oops. I had to back track and revert it to a daft but the only thing I saved was the title. I thought I had CTRL C'ed what I had typed but when I did CTRL V, nothing appeared. I was left staring at a blank page.

On my lunch break I spent most of it searching for how to determine the size of the astragals. The definition of it for a plane is a bead with a fillet on either side of it. In my old catalogs (last quarter of the 1800's) the smallest size listed is a 1/4" and the largest is 1 1/2". After 1900's, none of the catalogs I have list an astragal smaller than 3/8".

I checked the 4 books I have on wooden planes and none of them have astragals in them. The only molding planes that the authors write about making are hollows and rounds. The one book I have on molding planes only deals with how to rehab and use them. There weren't any write ups on figuring out what size astragal a plane is. Or for that matter, determining the size of any molder.

measuring my astragals
Since an astragal is a two fillets and a bead it makes sense to me that the size would be that. This astragal measures a 1/2".

the astragal I just bought
Josh mistakenly said that this was an 1/8" and it isn't. It measures out at a 1/2" too. It is also stamped on the heel 4/8.

3rd astragal measures a 1/2" also
These 3 planes all measure a 1/2" and I took it from the same spot on each plane. What I thought I had were  a 1/8", a 1/4", and a 3/8" astragal plane turns out to be three 1/2" astragals. Disregarding the size of the plane bodies, all three of the profiles look the same. The only difference I can see between them is that the beads are slightly different.

not my biggest one
This astragal measures 3/4" but I have one that is bigger.

I can barely make it out
There are a few owner stamps and a lot of hammer rosebuds on and around the size. I can clearly see the 8 and the backslash. After I rubbed some chalk in the area, I could faintly make out the 6. That makes this a 3/4" astragal which matches what I measured.

The last astragal I have in the herd is a 7/8" one (no size mark on the plane). I had to stop writing the blog and go to the shop and find it. I knew I had five of these planes and I found it on the dump  table. It measured 7/8" but had no marks on the heel or toe. Before I buy another one these planes I'll have to ask for a measurement. My grandson and I don't need three 1/2" astragals.

my wrong side knife wall
On a good point about this boo-boo, the shoulder is tight to stile. This groove will pop out like a lighthouse beacon if I paint it like this. I'll fill it with putty first and then paint it.

fuzzy pic of the center stile M&T
The epoxy with the filler turned a color that is very close to that of the pine. I filled all five of the M&T's with epoxy and filler. I wouldn't feel bad at all about leaving this natural because it blends in so well with the wood.

this one got the added piece of pine
I got all the M&T's sanded and I was surprised to see that the epoxy hadn't settled and left a hollow. It is close enough to flush that I'm leaving them as is.

door is puttied and drying
I was going to put some shellac on the M&T's so the paint won't have any adhesion problems. I got some putty on one of them so I'll wait until tomorrow to do the shellac. Shellac dries quick so I won't have to wait long before I put the paint on.

some quick work on the #4
I had sanded and shined this up to 600 grit and then I decided to strip and repaint the body. That knocked the shine way back and stained the sole. Here you can see the frog face and that is what the plane body looked like too. I brought most of the shine back with some 220.

this looks pretty but I will go back up to 600 grit again
it's almost as shiny looking as my 4 1/2 is

This is it for tonight. My wife said that she tired and we were going out to dinner. I voted to stay home and order in but I was over ruled. Funny that not even Fish 'n chips were tempting enough to make me want to go out to dinner.

Tomorrow I'll paint the cabinet and make the french cleat. I'm shooting for a sunday cabinet hanging day.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Garnet Carter?
answer - he patented the game of miniature golf (called Tom Thumb golf) in 1927

door prep pt 1........

Fri, 08/04/2017 - 1:27am
This past weekend I broke the tip off one of my Chestnut Tools screwdrivers. Bummer. I emailed Lee Valley and at my option, I could return the set for a refund, return the set for another one, or I could swap out the bad screwdriver. I opted for the last one and I should get it next week. I am hoping that this was one that fell through the cracks and didn't get hardened properly.

fingers crossed (I don't normally save boxes)
they are beautiful looking screwdrivers
I am going to hang on to the broken one (#6 screwdriver) and turn it into an awl.

came today
I just finished reading her Hoosier Cabinet book and I have one more to go.  I got this from her because Popular Woodworking doesn't sell this as a DVD anymore.

big surprise, I wasn't expecting a two disc set
She is giving a reading from her book Making Things Work at the Lost Art Press store on the 12th but I won't be able to attend.  I'll have to be content with meeting her in the DVD.

I gave into my sickness and bought another molder
it's an astragal and Josh says it's a 1/8" one
there will be a lot of rust under this black grunge but the business end looks good
before I  could road test it I had to clear off the workbench
I came back to the shop after dinner last night and put some more epoxy on this end of the strip. I had a similar problem with my xmas gifts with gluing end grain to long grain. I got a comment on that to size it first and then glue it up. It worked here so this is now good to go.

solid and secure now
Yesterday I could lift almost the entire part of the strip off the end grain top of the stile.

my hinge binding spot

The door is laying too tight on the carcass and not allowing the top hinge leaf to lay parallel to the bottom one. And I thought that I had made the hinge mortises too deep.

pre road test work
I need a rabbet to run the astragal in and I haven't used this wooden plane to successful make one yet. Tonight was the first time.

almost there
Making a rabbet with a wooden rabbet plane, without a fence, and getting a straight rabbet, is doable. I didn't make a knife or pencil line, I just starting planing away.

done
It is a good match between the iron and the sole but I had it set a bit too deep for this at first.  Ran into some squirrely grain on the left exit side. It also isn't a 1/8" astragal. It is marked 4/8 on the heel which makes it a 1/4" astragal. And I already have one and now I have two.

my astragal herd
From the right going left, 1/2", 3/8", and two quarter inchers. The 1/4" one I got tonight is the better of the two I have so I'll keep it and I'll pass the other on to someone else.

needs a shave
The hinge sticks out into the drawer cavity so I'll have to flush this with the side of the cabinet.

took less than 5 minutes to do it
shim material for the bottom hinge
I cut out 3 pieces and I started with two. I got this from a cardboard box so it's a little thicker than a sheet of paper.

two of them did the trick
door is closed and it stayed closed
epoxy work
I used West System epoxy with a filler and crammed as much of it as I could in all the gaps of the mortise and tenons.

didn't have to do the center on this side because it's covered by the squaring strip I glued on
haunch repair
This divot was too big for epoxy even with filler added. I epoxied in a scrap piece of 1/4" pine to fill it up. I'll trim and flush it tomorrow.

I fill have to use some Durham's Putty on the shoulder/rail lines. I made my knife wall on the wrong side and there is a vee groove there now. I should be able to have this painted and hung this weekend.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Which state was the first to be readmitted to the Union after the Civil war?
answer - Tennessee was in july of 1866 

door hung....

Thu, 08/03/2017 - 1:27am
I fretted over getting the door hung for nothing. Installing these hinges weren't any more difficult than doing butts for entry doors. They were easier to do because I didn't have to work on and move a large door around.  Hollow core doors aren't bad to work on but solid wood or a metal clad doors can be hernia busters.


 I got a late start in the shop tonight because it's garbage day and I had to make a pit stop. It seems that Shaws and Stop and Shop were both out of the large box of Newman's Own K-cups. I was going to buy a Starbucks box on sale but I didn't have a Stop and Shop card so I would have had to pay full price ($9 off).  I'll have to stop again tomorrow with my wife's card.

this side is solid
I can't budge this side but I can on the other side. I'll try some more epoxy on that and see if that works. If it doesn't I'll secure it with a miller dowel. Can't use a screw because it's end grain.

used my paint plane
Some of the epoxy oozed out onto the stile and got underneath the tape and it was still sticky. Rather than mess up one of my bench planes, I used this. The iron is sharp and it did just as good of a job as my bench planes would have done.


Forgot to snap even one pic of me squaring up the top of the door. It went off without a hiccup. I'm getting much better at planing to a line and not going past it.



laid out for the hinges and chopped the waste with a chisel
After the chisel got rid of some of the waste, I switched over to a hand router and got it to depth.

hinges on the door are done
I transferred the door hinge knife lines to the cabinet and chopped those out with a chisel and the hand router.

had the door upside down
I had the top at the bottom and because of that I had to switch the door opening from left going right to the right opening to the left. When I hang the cabinet I'll have to make sure I allow for the gas meter which is the left of the cabinet. The door will definitely introduce itself to it.

it's past my quitting time
I had just gotten done screwing in the last hinge leaf
I had to stay long enough to see if the hinges would mate up.


like a hand sliding into a glove
The hinges lined up and I pushed the pins home with my finger. No binding or squeaking protests from either hinge. I also got a 1/8" gap between the top of the cabinet and the top of the door. I'm putting a top board on there to increase my horizontal storage.

door opens and closes freely
My alignment on the hinge side is almost perfect. Before I paint this I will plane the edge opposite the hinges flush with the cabinet side.

it will close but it won't stay closed
The hinges are bound up and I think it is because I didn't make the mortises deep enough. I erred on the light side. But I'll find this out for sure tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What US newspaper has the motto, 'all the news that's fit to print'?
answer - The New York Times

fixing the door et al.......

Wed, 08/02/2017 - 1:40am
In the past I've done a lot of carpentry on old houses. Nothing there is square, plumb, or even reasonably close. One thing you learn quickly is to fix as best you can to fool the eye. With doors you can go nutso and remove door casings etc but the problem with that is if you straighten and square up things and put the casings back they are now too short.

Usually the house had settled as much as it was going to when I worked on it. The better solution was to leave the casing intact (but not always) and make the door fit the out of plumb/square conditions. Sometimes you had to saw off some and other times you added some. I'm going to use the same tactic on my finishing cabinet door. It is the same principle as what was used on a larger door but on a smaller scale.

the frog and body are done with the black paint



this is looking awfully tempting


Painting the frog and the plane body interior was something I never gave much thought to. I was more concerned with getting the plane rehabbed to make shavings. Now that I have painted a few planes, I'm really growing fond of the look.  I think that these two planes are candidates for the treatment at a future date.

Add caption
All of the rehab on the back two is done except for stripping and painting. Easy peasy, right?

square line for the top of the door
Since this door is going to be painted I am going to add a strip to the top and plane it square. The paint job will hide it. I have less a 1/4" on this end to remove going to nothing on the other end.


scrap from the panels
I let the strip overhang on the left and kept it flush on the right. I need the overhang on the left for the plane as I plane the strip from the high side on the right going to nothing on the left. The overhang will allow the toe of the plane to clear the left end. Without that the toe will hit the left end edge before I plane down to my line.

using two adhesives
The yellow glue will be used on the long grain portions of the door. Epoxy will be used on the end grain. I may be shooting myself in the foot on this but I'm hoping that the stile and rail widths are thin enough that they won't expand or contract and cause splits.

a distraction
I use this box a lot but it's starting to show a lot of wear. With the humidity levels running high lately this getting soft and mushy. I really like this box and I measured it so I make one out of wood and plywood.

what I use it for
I put my stock on this to check it for twist. It is just about the perfect size and I don't have to bend over to sight over my sticks. It is lightweight and easy to pick up and put away. The same qualities I want in a wooden model that will be a bit more durable than cardboard. Like I need another project to do.

I'll let this set until tomorrow
I have clamps on the yellow glue and blue tape on the epoxy. You don't need to clamp epoxy. The blue tape is sufficient to hold the strip in position while the epoxy cures.


my hinge stash
I emptied this out on the bench and went through the entire contents and I still can't find the hinges I wanted. They solid brass, not stamped, but milled and they would be perfect for this.

choices, choices, and more choices
these are the leaders
These have a loose pin but they stamped which makes them a lot less stronger than the milled ones I can't find. This color is a close match for the dark purplish color I'm using for the cabinet.

another choice
I've used these before and I like them. They are easy to installed and are sized for 3/4" stock. This hinge is wider then the edge but a shim could make up the gap easily. The only thing I don't like about them is that they are thin and stamped out.

not much of a counterbore for the screw head
the screw head is frog hair too high
the hinge isn't swaged
The fact that the hinge isn't swaged saves me here. The two leafs aren't meant to touch so the screws can be a bit high and it won't hinge bind it.

this is the closed position on the hinge
got another pair to pick too
I will keep the both of these together until I am ready to hinge the door. I'll choose one of them then.

a new molding plane
Hi my name is Ralph and I am wooden molding plane OCD maniac in need of a 34 step program. Josh had this for sale and I didn't have this profile yet and it looked too good to pass up.

I thought it was English made
This is an American made plane and it is one the best ones I've seen. I prefer English made planes and this one evokes that look and feel for me.

nice flowing profile
the face of the iron looks good
These are usually rusted from the bevel all the way to the top of the tang. This one is clean and looks to be rust free. The profile looks good and feels kind of sharp but I will hone this later.

someone did some flattening of the back
a perfect match between the sole and the iron
That black line at the opening is the iron projection past the sole. I can't see a difference between the two. This is the #1 reason I pulled the trigger on this plane.

shavings are a hair too thick
No problem making this profile. The shavings were thick but they made it out past the mouth without jamming and they are full length too.

not too bad for my first try with this molder
different but similar molder
This iron profile is a good match with the plane sole. I thought that I had bought a duplicate molder but I hadn't.

shavings are too thick but I'm passing full length ones
making a tapered molding with this plane
plane is jamming
The closer I get to the final profile, the more the plane jams up the mouth.

the reason why
The mouth on the right hand plane is wider than the new one I just got on the left. The right plane mouth is also wider at left side than it is on the right. I know what the problem with this molder jamming is caused by, but I don't know how to fix it.

the jammed mouth molding
sawing it out
This was something that I had thought I would never master. Sawing this out is as easy as sawing on a line.

the far end
the other end
To say this is tapered would be an understatement. I have two problems with this plane, tapering and jamming to fix and master.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Calbraith P. Rodgers?
answer - he made the first transcontinental flight across the US in 1911 (but it wasn't nonstop)

last day off.......

Tue, 08/01/2017 - 3:15am
I took a few days off from work to give me a long weekend. Today was the last one and I had big plans for today. Unfortunately those plans were like mice and men and I got nothing done.  I've been sleeping later in the mornings and after lunch I've been fighting to stay awake and not nap. I think I may have to do another one of these long weekends again. Doing that on the weekend I get the wood for my new workbench sounds good. My brother-in-law has a van I can borrow and I won't have to worry about the weather.

#2 Stanley
This plane didn't have the right washers for the frog screws when I got it. I thought I hadn't changed out them yet because I have 4 of them in the goodie bag. I thought I should only have two, so I checked the #2.

got the right washer
I don't remember doing this but I'll take it. I now have two sets of extra washers.

sharpening day
I was only going to do the hand routers but I needed the #7 later for the door. The 4 1/2 was leaving ridges so it had a chip on the edge and #8 didn't plane the end grain on the panels that well.  I did 8 tools today.

the #7 had a chip too
I had remove a big chip on the 80 grit runway.

how I tell what has been done
The irons waiting to be sharpened I leave together I didn't sharpen them in order R/L or L/R. I do the smallest irons first and the biggest one last. If I had kept at this it would have taken me about an hour. With a couple of breaks and numerous yawning bouts, it took me until after lunchtime. I still had to sharpen the #8 then. I got all the tools stropped, cleaned, oiled, and road tested by 1400.

I have a drawer with extra irons for all these planes. I got them for two purposes. One is to have a spare iron or two. Secondly it is to have an iron ready to go that I can swap out while I am working. This way I won't have to stop and sharpen and I can get right back to work.

What I don't want is to get in the habit of taking a dull iron out of a plane and grabbing a sharp one from the drawer if I'm not working on something.  I think that I should rotate them out and I'll do that the next time I sharpen an iron. I'll have to get in the habit of taking a sharp one out and putting a sharp back in it's place.

time to start working on the door
I was upstairs dozing off at my desk and I got up and came down to the shop. I had thought that I would get the door done and painted today. That didn't happen sports fans.

putting a 36" clamp in or out of the clamp rack
I have put/take the 36" clamps in/from the rack at an angle. My ceilings are low so I can't go straight up.

it's a tight fit
The clamp slides along until it gets to it's slot and then I turn it 90° to put it up. I do the reverse to take one out. It's a bit of a PITA but acceptable.  I made it this tight because I didn't want this to stick out from the wall too far.  There isn't that much room between the wall and the end of the workbench.

thought of  putting the bottom one on hinges
 I liked this idea as it would make it easier to take clamps out and put them back. But I wanted this up and functional so I skipped the hinge idea. I wouldn't be able to use this on this clamp bar as I don't think it is stiff enough. With the bar clamp bar open it would have to support a 24" arm plus the weight of the clamps. The clamps are aluminum and light but the bar is far from the hinge point and would need some additional support.

I want to do another clamp rack here with hinged clamp bars
sawing off the tenon overhang
sawed off and flushed the dowels
started flushing with the center rail
the back of the door
The center stile is flush at the top and bottom. The rails are proud of the stiles and that is all I have to flush on this side.

sawed the horns off, I'll flush them later
one of the better looking tenon mortise joints
the best of the 4
#3 M/T - the wedges expanded in all of the M/T
the last M/T
I thought I had more meat on the outside. Next time I'll make the haunch at least 3/8".

center stile M/T
the other center stile M/T
This was the first center stile tenon I trimmed and I butchered it good. It was because of this fit that I decided to use pins and to wedge the tenons. The door is being painted and all the nooks and crannies will be filled with Durhams putty first. I think I may fill some of the bigger gaps with epoxy like this one.

sometimes you get lucky
The door isn't twisted which surprised me. I was expecting some and I had none.

the cabinet front is not twisted neither
I have two things going in my favor here. The door is flat and the cabinet face the door will lay on is flat too.

the door is an 1/8" out of square
I planed the hinge side edge flat, straight, and square. This will be my reference for hanging the door on the cabinet. The door is about a 1/8" wider than the width and an 1" longer than the top to bottom length.

the door is aligned on the hinge side
The top of the door is off on the opposite side an 1/8".

the bottom with lots of overhang
The bottom overhang is staying. I did this because I thought I would use the bottom of the door to open and close it sans a knob/handle. If I trim the bottom of it to match the cabinet, I'll saw into the M/T and expose them on both sides.

problem at the top
The top I have to square up. I can't have the top not aligned with the top of the cabinet. It would stick out like a beacon.  This end of the door is the low spot for squaring. I have start almost right at the bottom of the haunch and taper up going to the other end. The square line ends at the top of the opposite corner.

I set the door aside for now while I decide how to best square up the top of it.

#4 plane for my grandson
Got the last coat of paint on this. Just have to shine it back it up and road test it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many US Presidents are buried in Arlington National Cemetery?
answer - only two, Kennedy and Taft

got a couple in the done column........

Mon, 07/31/2017 - 2:51am
It was a good day in the shop. I got into a groove starting about 0700 and when I looked up at the clock it was almost noon. I had already finished up two projects, I was closing in a 3rd, and I was sure that I would get the 4th one squeezed in too. I went looking for some hinges but as usual I couldn't find what I was looking for.  I have a small pair of butts I want to use for the door on the finishing cabinet but there was no joy. I thought I had them with the other hinges but I couldn't find in that bin.

This is a popcorn post with lots of pics. I will try to keep the verbiage to a minimum and let the pics tell the story of today's shop day.

parts came in saturday
When I got this plane it was missing the frog adjust screw and the washers for the frog screws. I bought and extra set of washers to have in my goodie bag. I had a modern replacement frog adjust screw that would have worked but I wanted an original Stanley one.

5 1/4 is ready to go
Spitting out equal shavings on both sides and nice long full length and full width shavings. This plane is ready to go for my grandson.

starboard aft quarter shot
bow shot
4 frog washers and 2  frog screws to go into the goodie bag
The two washers on the bench were the interim washers. I found out the Stanley washers are a #10 washer but I haven't found any of them yet.

why I had to make my dadoes deeper
I made the 'tabs' on the the second clamp bar over an 1/8" wider than my practice piece.

set up overnight
The screw hole is right in line with the dado and that is why it split. Even with this glued I don't have a warm and fuzzy that it won't do it again. I will use a screw in the bottom one but this one I will use a bolt and nut.

no room for the bolt
made a pocket with a 11/16" forstner bit
hack sawed the extra - it's blocking the screw hole behind it
I did this for all four of the top holes on both clamp bars.

yikes!!!! it doesn't fit
whew - sometimes the obvious escapes me and heads south
I forgot to do the dadoes on this clamp bar
done and I like
plenty of room for me to walk by
made four corbels(?)
they will hide the metal bracket on the clamp bar
last cheek sawn on the right
I sawed the tenons on the center stile and the right one was the last one. And the worse one I did.

my first two - thin web left on both cheeks
 the shoulder to shoulder is dead nuts
trying something different
I was going to use the butt mortise plane but I changed lanes for this. This came from the Wb8nbs blog post on making a door (his is about 1/2 way). He had a slick idea for trimming the tenons with a hand router and this is my take on that.

I used my wagon vise
The two orange colored boards are scraps from my kitchen. With the veneer on both sides it makes it a wee bit thicker than the center stile is.

still too fat - it took 4 trim and check cycles to get it to fit
got it dry fitted and it is square
a bit proud here - this will be the out face on the door
this is a strong 32nd but it's on the thicker part of the groove wall.

made a story stick for the panels - length and width
Since this is summer and it's humid, I made the panel a full fit in the grooves.

panels sawn to rough length
planed a reference edge, marked the width and sawed off the line
ends squared and planed to width
small panel raiser
I have had this plane for several years and I haven't made a panel with it yet. Or one that I would use even on a shop project. I made a practice run to get the width of the bevel.

I can't figure out the cross grain spur
If I want to feel like my IQ is 10 points lower than my shoe size, I try to use this. I don't have any luck with this at all. Mostly it comes loose and falls out and I usually don't see that happen.

cross grain looks good on the practice board
The long grain edge was used to set my marking gauge to the depth of the bevel. I scored the end and than used my marking knife to deepen it. I think it looks good and I'll do the same on the two panels.

got the four end grain edges done
They came up relatively clean with out any noticeable tear out or blowouts.

my first two panels raised by a molder
All my previous experience with molding planes paid off.

need a rabbet on the back to fit the preacher
I made the panel too long
because my story pole is off - too many stray pencil marks
sawed the panels to the correct length and planed the edge again
I made a shallow rabbet on the back of the panels on the tablesaw.

never would of thought I would get to this point a couple of days ago
L or R color for the finishing cabinet
The blue looks too girly to me but I'm not overly fond of the purplish color on the right either. I tossed a coin and the purple color won and it only took 3 tries.

wedging the tenons
My tenons aren't the greatest thing in the fit department. When it was twisted they were snug and self supporting. The center stile tenons are the loosest. They fit but aren't self supporting. 3 of the rail tenons are kind of self supporting and one isn't. Because of that I am going to wedge the tenons. I got them marked and drilled a relief hole.

flaring the outside walls of the tenons

sawing my wedges
I found some 1/4x1/4 poplar that I'm using for the wedges. I sawed them to length and then used the chisel to hold it as I sawed it kitty corner.

I only got one out of each - thought I would have gotten two
all tidied up
painted the edges front and back
I let this dry for an hour and then I glued up the door. I painted the edges so when the panel shrinks I won't see bare wood.

sawed the wedge slots
making some 1/4" dowels
I used the same stock I used for the wedges to make the dowels. Along with the wedges and glue, I am also pinning the tenons. I didn't draw bore them, just pinned them in a slightly undersized hole .

all four corners
same treatment on the center stile top and bottom
back side of the door
Tomorrow I'll saw the dowels flush, saw off the horns, and flush up the stiles and rails. Then I'll have a door to paint and hang. If I can find those *^%&;^%#@$%* butts.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a vicennial event?
answer - something that happens every 20 years

nothing broke today......

Sun, 07/30/2017 - 2:32am
Still don't have the new super duper clamp rack done.  I would have bet dollars against donut holes that I would have. In my defense I did hit a few snags that I had to deal with that slowed things down. But I didn't break any screwdrivers, the creek didn't rise, and I wasn't called late for supper. The topper is today was my wife's birthday so I didn't have get to spend all day in the shop.

after supper friday night
That rectangular blob sitting on the lower bracket for the clamp rack was bugging me. So after supper I sawed it off and glued on a piece to the bottom. I let that set up overnight and now in the AM, it's ready to unclamp.

need to trim them to length now
got my needed height and it looks better too
trimmed them
cleaning them up
These don't have to be a perfect match and my intent is to just clean up the curves and smooth them out. The bullnose plane evened and flushed the square ends.

the end grain after pic
the before
This fine rasp does a good job of smoothing the end grain. I think it is a bit better than using a file. It also doesn't make the shrilling squeak that the file will do.

cleaned up and ready to glue on the frame
not as thick as the frame
I flushed the inside of the bracket with the inside of the frame because that is where the clamp bar is going. I've already sized the length of it to fit there.
this looks better than the first one
The only way to hide the glue up is to paint this but I'm not sure I want to do that. After the crap I went through on painting the bookcase I think I'll shy away from paint.

I let this set up for few hours
I have to fix this
This is on the front of the clamp bar and visible. Douglas Fir has  tendency to to splinter like this.

I started with a chunk of wood like this
shaped it a little to reduce what I would have to remove later
glued up and cooking
screw hole needs to be filled
used this screw without checking it first
About a 1/4" of the screw is sticking up and it is too much to file down.

found some #6 x 3/4" screws that aren't too long
filled the screw holes with golf tees
These are unfinished golf tees - no paint or lacquer on them. They are a frog over 5/32" in diameter. I drill that size hole, scrape these down, and glue them in place. I only have to fix two holes.

made the dadoes on clamp bar #1
I did the dadoes on the tablesaw and set the depth to be just below the aluminum angle.

hack sawed the two ends
broke off the tab with pliers
some file work
The file smoothed the bottom of the dado and the aluminum edge. I also filed the aluminum coming from the other side to round it over.

wee bit peeking by
 I filed the sides too both ways slightly rounding them over.

the look from the back
The aluminum covers most of the back of the tabs. I hope that this will reinforce these and keep them from breaking off.

the look from the front
I only have 8 clamps for the 12 slots so I'll have to buy four more each of the 24" and 36" clamps.

they were a tight fit
I checked putting a clamp in the rack and it was a tight squeeze. It fit but it had to go straight in. I ran each dado again on the tablesaw opening up the width a few more frog hairs. I want a loose fit to ease taking the clamps off and putting them back.

the dutchman cleaned up

oops

The screw in this straight grain portion of the bar clamp split it.

glued it and I will let this set up until tomorrow
the other end
I could see a crack on this end so I stuck a screwdriver in it and opened it up. I filled it with glue and clamped it until tomorrow.

frame attached to the wall
I like this. I doesn't take up as much room as the first clamp rack and in doesn't interfere with the toys to the right and left of it.

missed this one
I checked to make sure the beam fit the dado but I didn't check to see if it fit in the rabbet. I had to deepen all the dadoes again 1/4".

checking the door
This rail is definitely twisted. The rail on the other end is flat on the bench. I checked all four rails this way and worked on each one at a time.

the other side stile and rail
On this side this rail is up and the other one is just a wee bit off the bench. From looking at the two rails and how they fit in the stiles, I would say that the tenons are the cause.

the mortise walls appear to be pretty square
There were a few bumps and a few hollows, but I don't think the mortises are the main contributor to the twist. The aren't perfect but the don't look like they are slanted going from one edge to the other.

this is off
All four of the ends of the mortises are off. Most of them are slanted and not square from one edge to the other. I don't think this matters nor is it causing the twist. I plan on draw boring the tenons. I'll make sure they are square first before doing that.

butt mortise plane
I had bought this plane to trim tenons and when I first tried it I didn't have much success. I think now my skill level with planes is at least one notch up from then and I gave it try again. When looking at the tenons I saw that most had a fat part close to the shoulder.

It worked a whole better than my last try out with it. I think it is because these tenons are longer and wider than the ones I first tried. A hand router worked well on those short tenon lengths. I was planning on giving this away but now I will keep to use on long wide tenons.

got this one to lay flat
thought I got these two to lay flat
raised up off the bench after a few seconds
now it's laying flat over two minutes later
huge improvement
The far top left corner is 4 frog hairs off the bench. I took the frame apart again and rasped the mortise first. I then trimmed the the facing down tenon with the butt mortise plane and checked the door. I had to make one more trim run but I got the door frame to lay flat on the bench.

I found in taking the twist out this door that 95% of the corrective action had to do with the tenons. I thought it would have been a 30/70 thing with the tenons and mortises.  With the tenons at 30 and the hand chopped mortises being 70.

not twisted and it's square
I got the center stile marked and ready to saw the tenons out. That will have to wait until tomorrow. I feel better that I got the door untwisted. My grooves aren't exactly in the top ten million best made grooves but they will have to do. For a shop door on the finishing cabinet it will it's job. This was a learning experience for me and I can use it as a reminder to check myself on future doors.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the 20th anniversary jewel?
answer - emerald

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