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Accidental Woodworker

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The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2516125
Updated: 15 min 14 sec ago

disaster day.....

12 hours 3 min ago
Had one major and one minor disaster today. The major one sucks and it'll be expensive to fix. The minor one is more of an 'aw shit', toss it, and start over again. My canon camera failed the bounce test with Mr. Concrete floor again for the 3rd time. The lens won't open or retract all the time and I get a  lens error when it doesn't open or close. I got it to work a few times by manually pulling the lens open but that isn't something I want to do for every pic I snap in the shop.

The canon camera I have sucks in that I can't just replace the faulty lens. I not only have to replace the entire lens assembly but also the CMOS circuitry that makes the pics. The last time this happened it cost me $225. It is not something I want to shell out $$$ for again. Besides that, the last time I had it done the camera guy said parts were getting hard to find for it. I found the camera I started taking pics with when I started this blog 10 years ago. I'll use that until I figure out what to do next in the pic snapping department.

so far it's working
My experiment is paying off. I had put on several coats of shellac on the bottom of the feet and let them cure for about a week plus. The bookshelf has been on the workbench for 3-4 days and the feet are still clean. What I would do in the past was to put the shellac on and wait about a half hour and set the bookcase on it's feet to apply finish to the rest of it. The downside to that is the finish wasn't fully cured and hard yet so any debris on the bench ended up on the feet. As you can see the feet are still clean.

working on the stone holder
I need to make the dado for the wedge that will capture the stone and keep it from moving.

bandsawed the wedge and squared it up
waste removal next
I am not going to use two opposing wedges. Instead I am using one wedge and the dado to do my holding. My reasoning is that I don't need opposing wedges here and this looks like it will work.

waste removed, router will get me to a consistent depth
wee bit too deep with the saw on this wall
first hiccup
With the wedge secured in the dado, the stone isn't secured at all. I can push it right off the holder with my pinkie. I should have knifed my line on the left side of the pencil and not the right. There is a very slight gap between the end of the stone and the wall of the dado.

side rabbets 4, me %%$#^^@@=&*( zero
All I seem to be able to do with these are to make a couple of shavings and dig a groove at the bottom of the dado.

same luck on the left side
I tried using both side rabbet planes on both sides coming from different directions. The only thing I succeeded at was making the groove at the bottom. I'll have to make some test grooves in pine and spend some quality time figuring out how to use these planes.

disaster I forgot
 I had to make the dado 2 frog hairs wider and I almost made it. Pulling this back after making the cut on the tablesaw it slipped and made this cut.

the wedge is cocked
The stone extends over the left side of the wall 3 frog hairs. I thought maybe the right wall wasn't plumb but it is as is the left one too. I think maybe the stone extends 2 frog hairs too much over the left edge of the dado.

should have done it this way?
Maybe the opposing wedges need to act against each other? And not the top of the stone edge. Or maybe my single wedge idea is half baked and needs a half dovetail on the left to keep it from cocking?

road test up coming
The right side corner got dinged somehow and rolled a sizeable burr down onto the back. I will have to fix the bevel and sharpen this again. I got the wedge to seat on the bottom of the dado and not be cocked.

it is working on both
The stone isn't moving and I'm grinding a new bevel.

the wedge is cocking
shelf liner
I don't have a hook on this and I purposely used the shelf liner to test it. The stone didn't budge or move in any direction at all. At least something went right for me tonight. On stone holder #3 I'll also go without a hook. If the shelf liner fails the hook is something I can easily add. Without it, it makes stowing the holder easier because it will lay flat.

I don't know what I'm going to do with this holder. I could glue the wedge in place and start over but I'll revisit this tomorrow.

I only have a couple of coats of 3lb shellac on this and I'm picking up reflections in the side off of the bench. I am still going to put on at least two more coats. I will steel wool this tomorrow and put on two more and evaluate it again then.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the oldest US Greek letter college society?
answer - Phi Beta Kappa established at the college of William and Mary in 1776

started the new stone holder.......

Wed, 05/24/2017 - 12:56am
Today was mostly sunny but now that the day is almost done, it is turning more and more cloudy. According to the weather seers, this is the last sun we'll see until next week. Each day is neither forecasted to be cloudy or will rain with some days having both. As long as it doesn't rain in the shop I'll be a happy camper.

an oops
The beading plane veered off and I left a long divot here. Rather then replace it, I sanded it out as best I could. With the black frame it is hard to see and there is no mistaking the hand made look of this.

I'm so happy with this I could wet myself
The color came out deep and uniform on the entire frame.  One more coat of shellac and this will be done.

last rub down with 4-0 steel wool
At the top right, forward part of the frame you can see the divot. The shellac flour is highlighting it.

got my two inch hake brush
 The cabinet just has to be big enough to hang these vertically.
the proposed home of said cabinet
This is roughly 19 inches square but the cabinet won't be square. It has to be a minimum of 14" high for the brushes and I'm shooting for 16ishx12ish. It also might be made out of 1/2" plywood because I have several pieces of it hanging around the shop.

1/2 x 6 x24 poplar
I have about 1 1/2 inches to play with. With 1/4" back I'm down to about an inch. I would rather have a warm and fuzzy with the depth being 2" before the cabinet back. But that will be driven by how much projection I can have on the wall. I still have to walk by here and I don't want to have to do special dance steps to get from point A to point B.

first piece of scrap white oak
I want to make this holder out of white oak because it is going to get wet. This piece would probably work but I want the bottom of the stone to rest entirely on wood. I have another piece of white oak but it is rough sawn and I would have to 6 square it before I can make a stone holder with it.

found a bigger piece
This white oak was surprisingly easy to cross with the sash saw. I wasn't expecting it to be like this and the bonus is I got a relatively clean crosscut.

squared a reference edge with my new 5 1/2

I'll use the off cut to make the wedges
no twist
After I checked for twist, I smoothed this surface with the #3.

the plan
I'll make two dadoes at each end. The near end will be glued in place. With this design I don't need any side stops and I will be able to take and put the stone on the holder easily.

this end will get a dado for the two wedges
sawed the two walls for the bottom dado
I've been trying to use chisels more for this and this is a good opportunity to practice. Removed most of the waste with the 1/4 bench chisel and smoothed it to depth with the paring chisel.

did pretty good this time
wee bit tight
I did this purposely so I could get some practice with the side rabbet planes.

using the 4 1/2 to thin it
I still have a ways to go with the side rabbet planes. I was able to make some shavings but then I got nothing. The stop was still too tight to fit and that is why I used the 4 1/2.

fits snugly here but too tight on the near side
Took a few more swipes before there was joy in Mudville.

snug fit side to side
 The left side won't seat fully.

it is not rocking
It is rocking like I expecting but it is tapered. One end of the dado is higher than the other one.

the offending end
I got the groove to depth with the small router plane.

glued and cooking
One dado done and tomorrow I'll make the one for the wedges.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What does the word "amen" mean?
answer - so be it or let it be

the rain is back.....

Tue, 05/23/2017 - 12:58am
I thought april showers bring may flowers. It seems the rain and flowers, along with months, are on different schedules. We just had a couple of warm, humid,sunny days, and the forecast is for rain or cloudy skies right through memorial day weekend. And this after going through a week plus of the same crap. The temps are much cooler hanging out in the high 50's/low 60's which is perfect for me. I don't work wood outside so the cloudy or rainy stuff doesn't bother me. Except that I seemed to have gotten too fat and too slow to stay dry by running inbetween rain drops anymore.

time to see if anything stuck together
nothing stuck
Maybe the blue painters tape acts like waxed paper. I was expecting some tape to adhere to this seam. The epoxy is not quite flush with the top but being flush isn't critical here.

same thing on this side
I know some epoxy got on top of the metal insert because I saw it flow out on the edges onto the top. The tape didn't stick to it and the insert feels solid.

passed the tap test
I rapped this on the bench on both sides and it took it without whimpering.This is a very solid feeling repair.

it fits
As you can see I no longer have a zero clearance insert. For that matter I don't think it was ever a zero clearance insert. The only hiccup with this I can see is that I am closer to the blade on the left side than I remember it.

trying it again
I got a comment from Stephen on these and he said he used them with polish or rubbing compound to shine/clean metal. I tried it on the certificate frame and it didn't perform any better than it did on the bookshelf. I did have a thought that maybe I can use this to rub out the frame and bookshelf with wax. I will give that a try and see what shakes out with that.

For the rest of the week the frame and bookshelf will be sharing the #1 spot on the Workshop hit parade. I will slip in making a new stone holder sometime this week too. I've been thinking of something new with that.

step one with the bookshelf
The bookshelf feels like sandpaper. It is covered in dust nibs everywhere. I used the card scraper to remove them and flatten out the shellac at the same time.

small card scraper on the long grain edges
I have tried using the bigger card scraper on these thinner edges and I tend to scrape the outside edges and slightly bevel them. Still have that problem with the smaller one but not as frequently and it's usually because I am watching what I'm doing.

gave the 4-0 a good workout

this looks good
I think one more coat of 3lb shellac and this will be done. I'll bring this to the frame store this weekend.

I love the look of the back slats
I really like how the back slats seem to grow out of the sides. I got one 3lb coat on this but unlike the frame, this is going to get 4-6 coats before I'm done with it.

my hake brushes
I just ordered another one of these and it's coming via prime from Amazon. I would like to make a box to keep the 3 of them in it but maybe this time I'll go crazy and do something different. I keep them in the powered router cabinet now but I would like something better. Instead of a box I am thinking of making a shallow cabinet to keep the brushes and the shellac cans in. The main point of the cabinet will be to allow the brushes to hang vertically so everything else will be designed around that.

solid wood is my first choice
Adding extra storage for the shellac cans was an after thought  The spot I want to put this cabinet won't work if it is much deeper that 5-6 inches. I'm also restricted in the height and width but this is something that will have to wait until the weekend or beyond.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What do J.C. Penny's initials stand for?
answer - James Cash

relaxing weekend.......

Mon, 05/22/2017 - 12:29am
I slowed down a lot, for me anyways, this weekend. I still have a lot of things on my A+ list to get done but I am not going to obsess about checking every item off in one day. I only checked one thing off the list today and played with a few others but that was it. I am going to tic off a lot of the little things and the big ones will have to wait. I have a lot of maintenance things I need to attend to and cross off the list before the bookcase or stand up desk gets made.

took it apart to try and salvage it

part of a chinese oak stair tread
The top and bottom has a thick veneer of oak cross banded in the middle with another wood (?). I got it at Home Depot 3-4 years ago and I still have a few pieces kicking around in the shop.

X marks the high corners
the other side isn't twisted
But it does have a hump in the middle. I was going to try and salvage this but after seeing this, it is toast. I'll have to make another one of these quick because I don't have a holder for the coarsest diamond stone.

miter box saw
The bottom edge of the spine was ragged out a bit. It drew blood when I ran my finger tip along it. I filed this going straight across the spine on a diagonal trying to avoid filing the whole width. I just wanted to file the bottom edge corner.

wasn't 100% successful with that
This side of the spine was worse than the other side.

the spine bottom will ride on top of these
the arm's pivot circle
This is scored some in a couple of spots around the diameter. I lightly sanded it with a wooden block and 320 grit sandpaper just to remove the burrs.

the table pivot point
I don't know if there was any grease on this because Phil did an awesome job of rehabbing this. The pivot point on my 358 was packed with grease. This diameter has signs of scoring too but I don't know if there is any binding yet. I haven't attached the arm yet to check that out.

the legs don't lie flat
they don't lay flat on all four points
I can get 3 points down with this one up. If I put this one down, two points are off the bench. I'll have to take these off and even them up somehow.

made a Wally World run
The stripper is for wood and metal and it is the first time I've seen one come in a rattle can. The primer and gloss black are for the #2 plane body. The Red 'N' Tacky I've never heard of. I was looking for a smaller tube of grease but the selection at Wally World was a bit on the lean side. I picked this one because it says on the tube that it is good for sliding parts. I'll be using this grease on the miter box pivot point.

the bottom of the spine
This is the part of the spine that rides on the round bearings at the top of the saw posts. It looks like it hasn't been an entirely smooth ride for this saw. The scallops came from my 358 miter box and not this one. I can file them flattish but it is going to take a while. Not something I want to do today so I'll do a little each day until I get it done.

the one thing I checked off the A+ list
My main focus today was working on the kitchen. Like I did last weekend, I did a little on the kitchen, took a break, did a little bit in the shop, and started the cycle all over again.

I'm going to put a piece of metal in this pie shaped indentation to strengthen it. I don't want to rely solely on the epoxy holding this together.

first step is to make a rubbing of the metal piece

step 2 - glue it to the donor
step 3 - file the outline
step 4 - the filing will guide the cutoff wheel
roughly done

This thing was hot when I got done. How do I know this? Because I'm the idiot who tried to pick it up right after I got done cutting it out. I threw it in some water to cool it down so I could handle it.

wee bit too fat
I thought that this was going to fit off the dremel. I had cut the rubbing out on the inside of the lines but it wasn't enough.

a little filing and checking batted next
pretty good fit
This part of the insert doesn't touch on anything. It is out in the air so I don't have to worry about it effecting the fit.

ready to epoxy in place
I sanded the side of the insert being epoxied and cleaned it with mineral spirits before I did that.

backside of the coarsest diamond stone
I'm using this because it is flat and convenient. I don't need the insert ending up in a vee either in or out.

cooking until tomorrow
I have gotten a few comments about trying synthetic steel wool and I finally got some. I got a two pack of 4-0 and I'll compare it to my metal 4-0 steel wool.

used it on this end
I didn't get a lot of feed back from using this. This seemed to be gliding over the wood without 'sanding'. And it still felt rough after I went over the whole end. The pad didn't show hardly any wear or use and there wasn't any shellac flour neither.

the real stuff
I could not only feel the steel wool cutting, I could see it to. This made a lot of shellac flour and the surface was considerably smoother to the touch than the white stuff. The steel wool pad looks used also.

tried it on the long grain edge
against steel wool on the other long edge edge
The synthetic stuff was a bit better on this test. It didn't generate any shellac flour but there was a hint of this being a bit smoother.  I still give the edge to the real stuff. It was smoother to the touch and there was shellac flour to see.

results weren't any better on the poplar
the winner is the real stuff
The 4-0 real steel wool is a much better performer than the synthetic stuff.  This cuts, smooths and although it leaves tiny metal bits behind, I'll continue to use it. Using a vacuum cleaner afterwards is a part of using it.

the loser
This is good idea but it didn't perform anywhere near as well as the metal steel wool does. It didn't generate any dust nor did it seem to knock down and smooth the shellac. I was a bit disappointed in it but maybe the 4-0 is too fine for sanding inbetween coats on the shellac. It doesn't matter because I'll keep on using the metal stuff.

four coats of 1 lb cut on the certificate frame
4 coats on the end tops too
The clock fits with 1 1/8" to spare. It looks funny having the clock up that high so this may change. But my wife is happy with the plate rail and that is all that matters to me.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many people have won the Grand Slam in golf?
answer - Bobby Jones did it 1930 (before the Masters) Tiger Woods held all four titles in a row but not in the same calendar year

heat wave broke.......

Sun, 05/21/2017 - 3:07am
It was noticeably cooler today. Sunny and breezy, but no heat and no humidity.  The temp was higher than what the forecaster predicted though. They said 67F/20C as their high and my porch thermometer read 77.4F/25C at 1800. Still much better then temps in 90's.

I didn't sleep very well last night. The peepers failed open at 0130 and I after an hour of trying to fall back to sleep, I got up. I wasn't going to work OT today but it was way too early to be in the shop so I went to work. I planned on only doing 3 hours but I did 6. We were taught a new way to scan certain documents into the system and today was my first time doing them solo. I got into a rhythm with it and when I came up for air I had already put in over 5 hours. I stayed to round it out to 6 and left then.

had to sweep the deck
Besides having shavings all over the shop, I also have crap spread out on every single horizontal surface. There is so much crap in built up piles that I can't find anything. The shavings I can walk on and ignore but the piles I can't. This is just the tip of the iceberg and I have unseen problems that are below the waterline.

What brought out the cleaning bug was me looking for something buried somewhere in the shop. As I was looking for that, I realized that I have way too many irons in the fire. I stopped counting after 7 and I could have probably gotten into double digits on just my immediate to do list. Granted some are quickies like setting the shavings on the 5 1/2, but picking the first one to do was giving me a headache.

Priority #1 I decided was me taking a day of rest. Getting up 4 hours before oh dark thirty was catching up to me and it wasn't even lunchtime yet. First batter was doing a leisurely sweep down of the shop which took until the early afternoon.

I boxed up the #2 and set it aside for now. Most of it is done but what is left will eat up a lot of calories and time. I have to strip and paint the plane body and I'm thinking of refinishing the tote and knob also. I've done everything else to the plane and I might as well do that to complete it.

the cause
These are the 14" keyboard slides and I was looking for the 12" ones. Like an idiot I was going to go to Lowes and buy some pine to make a second stand up desk for me for work. I figured I could squeeze it in with no problems.  I came to my senses when I couldn't find the 12" glides. I'll clean what is on my plate first and then start that.

WTF is it?
Have you ever made something and saved it only to find it later? When you see it you give it your best goofiest look but have absolutely no clue as to what it is, what it was used for, or why you made it? A specialized shooting board? Part A of the better mouse trap? A salami slicer and dicer?

this didn't help
This is probably meant to be held in a vise. I thought I would be aha moment after seeing this but it is still a mystery to me. No light bulbs coming on and I have no memory of this at all. Nada, zippo, zilch, all I see is the big black abyss of nothingness.

last thing I did and found
I was cleaning the table off by the bandsaw and the 12" glides were buried there. I'll leave them on the workbench until I use them.

largest Ashley Iles chisels
I added these back to the list. I did not sharpen these correctly the last time I did them. I have shiny bevels with flats on the very edge.  I would bet a kidney that I didn't check for a burr when I sharpened them. The 2" one I would like to have to use needs the most work. I'll be doing these on the 80 grit runway.  Then I will have to find a new home for  them. With them being in a box I tend to forget about them. And the box is usually buried somewhere and hidden from view.

ditto with the Buck Bros
I got these paring chisels when I first started out buying woodworking tools in the late 70's. The same story applies here as the Ashley Iles. Maybe I can combine the two together in one box?

31 year old delta 14" bandsaw insert
failed the bounce test with Mr Concrete floor a long time ago
This has been broken for over ten years and I've been limping along with it. Every once in a while I search the web for one and come up dry. There are plastic ones but I want another metal one like this. The plan is to use my west system epoxy  to glue it back together and see if I limp along for another 20 years with it.

had to make something today
I am using the big stone and stropping board holder to make this one.

the former one was here
I kept that one in the vise and ate up a lot of real estate on this corner of the sharpening bench. When I first made it I used in on the woodworking bench. I never bothered to make a new one when I made the sharpening bench.

ugly finger divot hole
I always clean my stones after every use. This isn't pretty but it does work. I also didn't run the two sides from the top to the bottom but left a space on both sides at the top.

just enough to get my finger underneath it

it's toast
It is twisted and rocking slightly even in the vise. Something that is not a good thing to have in a sharpening stone. I'll toss this and make another one tomorrow.

Grace saw nut screwdriver
This screwdriver fits the saw nuts on every saw I own but I had not checked it on the this miter box saw. I wasn't disappointed and I was able to take out all four nuts. The nuts will be getting a Bar Keeps bath later on.

easier to clean sans the handle
The plate is pretty clean but the spine has a lot of dings and sharp points on the edges along it's length on both sides. The saw was used and shows signs of some abuse but the tooth line is pristine almost. Maybe all the dings came from storage or banging around in a toolbox.

Along with doing the saw I will have to get some grease for the pivot on the miter box. It doesn't look like it had much grease in it as there is some scoring on both seats.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How much does the skeleton of an average 160 pound human weigh?
answer - about 30 pounds

heat ↑ humidity →......

Sat, 05/20/2017 - 12:09am
This mini heat wave is supposed to go away on saturday. The temp today was supposed to top out at 89F/32C but today's temp beat yesterdays. At 1700 the porch thermometer was reading a very toasty 96.7F/36C but it doesn't feel as hot as it was yesterday. Maybe that is because I sucked it up and put the A/C units in the windows yesterday after work. Saturday the temp is forecasted to be 65F/18C. That makes for a 30 degree differential but I'll wait and see what it actually gets up or down to.

packing from the miter saw
I stuffed all of this back into the box and then stowed it in the boneyard. I was going to toss it all but this is some good packing stuff to have. I may need to ship the walnut bookcase to my daughter down in NC. This was step #2 tonight. I had to do this in order to get to my workbench.

this was job #1 tonight
I knew that this was in the boneyard somewhere. Where exactly took me about 15 minutes to find. If I had started on the left side of the boneyard I would have found it right away. Instead I started on the right where I thought I had stashed it. There I had to move a lot of crap to see what was underneath and behind things.

On my lunch break I searched the WWW for a 2358 instruction manual and came up dry there but I came across a blog post I did in 2011 on doing the same thing for my 358 miter box. It's been 6 years since I got the 358 and got nowhere trying to breathe some life back into it. Bob, the Valley Woodworker, gave me a link to one on his famous tool blogs and the 2358 instruction manual is there.

Bob from Logan's cabinet shoppe made a new handle for the saw and sharpened it also. I only used it about 3-5 times and gave up on it. The 358 I have is worn out, missing a lot of parts, and it was too difficult trying to saw anything with it. The guy I got it from said it belonged to his father who was a carpenter who did rough and finish work.

a few rust blooms to sand away
For sitting idle for 6 years the saw is in good shape. This will clean up easily with some 320 sandpaper.

the posts fit on the saw
One nice thing about the 2358 miter box is that the miter box itself didn't change in any way with the model numbers. What changed was the size of the saw. This saw here is the largest one that Stanley offered up with the 2358 miter box. It is 28" long and 5" high. I am a hair shy of 4 7/8" under the spine so this saw hasn't been sharpened too many times.

saw guide buttons
I don't know the proper name for these but they are guides for the saw. On my 358 they barely project into the inside cavity. And of course they are something that you can't buy anymore so the saw flopped around in use.

2 degrees warmer in the shop today
I'm satisfied with the color
Tonight I put on the final application of the iron and tannic acid. Tomorrow I'll sand it and put one final coat of tannic acid on and let that dry. The shellac will follow that.

re did the flat on this side
When I stoned the leading edge, I changed the edge on this side. It is tapered, larger at the fore and thinning out to the far side. After I fixed that, I sharpened and honed the iron. Got a burr and maintained it right up to the 8K polishing stone.

why I fettle the chipbreaker this way
There is no light at all under the chipbreaker sighting inbetween it and the iron. The chipbreaker lays flat and even on the iron from one side to the other. With the leading edge polished, shavings should glide and slide right over it. The flat on the other side keeps any shavings from getting jammed between it and the iron. When I first started out planing, cleaning out the hump underneath the chipbreaker was a constant chore for me. Now I rarely get a shaving here and if I do, I redo the flat on the back of the chipbreaker and the iron.

I was thinking of a plane till at lunch today
These on the planes I want to keep in the plane till. I got these laid out roughly in the way I think they should be to get a rough measurement. The #8 gives the minimum OA height and the herd corralled will give a rough width.
just planes
I didn't include the molding planes nor the LV rabbet, and the Record 043 and 405. The router planes are absent also along with the newly purchased side rabbet planes. My initial thoughts are to keep the bench planes separate in a top cabinet and the other planes (which are all in boxes) in a cabinet under the bench planes. I plan on making a second plane till just to hold my wooden molding planes.

it's going to be a big cabinet
There is no allowance here for separators between the planes. I think just looking at the number of planes that this could easily morph out to 46-48". Satisfied that urge and it gives a starting point to think about.

#2 lever cap
I tried sanding first with 100 and then 320 grit and got the same result. Only the leading edge was getting shiny and clean. The rest of the lever cap was getting a pebbled look and feel. I stopped here and I'll come back to this tomorrow.

it's a Disston saw
I wonder why Stanley never got into the saw making business.They had there hands in so many different things and I'm surprised they hadn't bought a saw company out to make their own saws.

almost cleaned up
I want to clean and polish the saw plate and the spine on this saw.  However it is a very messy job and I'll do it outside so I can leave the mess there.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who holds the record for the longest senatorial filibuster?
answer - Senator Strom Thurmond does, doing it for 24 hours, 18 minutes in 1957

hot,humid, and sticky..........

Fri, 05/19/2017 - 1:22am
Still spring but this is not the first day that has been hot and humid. My porch thermometer read 92.3F/33C at 1545. Needless to say it was a bit toasty. This is the kind of weather I hate and I hate it with a passion bordering on fanaticism. It's still spring with summer a month away. Is this a portent of things to come?

wednesdays' night work
I tried to clean the adjuster with several different things -from orange cleaner to WD40 - and nothing was removing the black crud from it. I took the both of these upstairs and while I watched a bit of the boob tube, I sanded these to this.

knurling is still dirty
This I couldn't sand without destroying the knurling. Being dirty like this distracts from the rest of the shiny brass.

plane parts ready to depart the citrus bath
everything goes in the strainer
After losing two washers down the drain from past baths, I don't take anymore chances.  This is mostly for the small parts - screws, studs, etc - so they don't get washed away being rinsed off.

back to the adjuster
I mixed up a paste of Bar Keeps and water and I started to scrub the dirty knurling.

15 sweaty minutes later
It took 3 toothbrushes before I got the center slot between the knurling clean and down to somewhat shiny brass.  I also used the paste on the barrel nuts.

maybe the last ebonizing application
I like the color of this and if it looks as good tomorrow as it does now, I'll call it done. I have enough of the iron solution left for 4-5 coats if need be. This ebonizing is pretty good for poplar so far.

it's like a box of chocolates to quote Forrest Gump
it has a slight hollow
The first 1/8+" behind the bottom of the bevel is flat so this isn't that terrible.

5 minutes later it is flat enough to start on the bevel
bevel rough shaped
This is as far as I'm taking this tonight. I'll finish it tomorrow or this weekend. This heat sucks the desire to work wood right out of my bone marrow, but the cellar is at a rather cool 72F/22C. I'm still sweating and I'm starting to turn into a raging nut job. Have I told you that I hate this weather?

the chipbreaker
I stone the leading of the chipbreaker. I started on my coarsest diamond stone but there were two hollow spots. A couple of minutes on the 80 grit runway and the hollow spots were no more.

I concentrate on the very edge
consistent scratch pattern from the R to L and no hollows
coarse diamond stone next
This is it for the chipbreaker and I don't stone all the way up to the 8K one. I will strop it when I do the iron.

stoned a flat on this side
leading edge is shiny without any stropping
oiled up the plane parts - no more playing with the #2 tonight
it's not a breadbox
Stanley 2358  broken down for shipping
These parts are missing from my 2358 which is a lot older than this one. The silvery one on the left locks the saw in the up direction. The right ones are used as a depth stop for doing end rabbets or dadoes.

these parts are seldom seen on  miter boxes for sale

stock holder
This holds the stock up against the fence flat or at an angle for doing crown molding.

I put this in place like this for now
The circled 12 and 8 are what the angles are for a 12 or 8 sided frame etc.

 I need to look these up
I can't remember how these go in. On my 2358 the front and back ones aren't interchangeable. With the exception of the stud on the front one, they look exactly the same. Now I have to put this together and find where I hid my saw for my old 2358. The seller did an incredible job of rehabbing this miter box. I paid $179 for it (S/H included) and I think I got one hell of a bargain for my $$$$.

looks like an ordinary light switch cover

LED lights at the bottom
In the pic above, at the bottom left of the cover there is a photocell. It turns the light on when it gets dark and off during the day.

gets the power off the two silver terminals
My wife got these from Amazon and she thinks they are called Snap lights.  She put one in the hallway between the bedrooms, one at the back door, and once the kitchen is done, one is going on the counter top. I can navigate to the head at night without tripping and killing myself with the light this puts out.

This is it. I could have done more but I dislike sweating and working in this weather. I'll just have to slow down and take it easy until this weather goes south.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the significance of latitude 39° 43' in American history?
answer - it's the Mason-Dixon line

5 1/2 done, starting the #2.......

Thu, 05/18/2017 - 12:54am
I think it was a Meatloaf song that had a verse that went something like this :".....two out of three ain't bad....". That is what I had tonight when I got home. I got 2 out of the 3 things I ordered and I'm agreeing with Meatloaf that what I got ain't bad. I think if I got the miter box too today my wife would have probably found me suffering from sensory overload. I would be stuck in a corner somewhere muttering to myself which one do I play with first?

from Bill Rittner
I ordered an extra brass toe screw but not an extra set of brass barrel nuts. The #2 doesn't have a toe screw but it does have barrel nuts. I like to have spares so I'll be ordering another two sets of barrel nuts on payday.

rear end done
You can not do any better than shiny brass. I like the the one in the toe of the tote a lot. All my bench planes from the 4 1/2 up to the 8 have one. Except for the #6 which I haven't done a complete rehab on yet. I use that plane only for planing stock to thickness.

the before and after
Bob said to use the Autosol on this
It worked on the shiny stuff but it did nothing on the 4 1/2 lever cap. The rag got dirty but I didn't get any shine for my efforts. I think I'll sand it first and try the Autosol again.

first of 3 things I like about type 11's and down
The low knob can not be beat. My personal preference is the low unbeaded knob but I do have planes with the high knob too.

#2 is the plain lever cap
Lever cap choices are personal and are like trying to figure why blue is someone's favorite color.

the totes
It seems to me that the totes start getting more upright with the later types. I especially like the feeling I get from gripping this down low close to the plane body. It literally is like a hand in glove fit for me.

Well almost done. I still have to adjust the frog so I get an even shaving out of the R/L side of the mouth.

shiny brass is better than dull steel
this is a sweet looking plane
I'm glad that I got this and I think I may use this one a lot more than my smaller #5.

current home
I have nowhere else to keep this plane for now.

it is also the home for the #3 and 10 1/2
the 5 1/2 can't go here
The #8 is taking up the back of the bench. Even if I take the 3 planes at the top left out, I still couldn't get the 5 1/2 to fit there.

might fit here
I could find another hole for the 51 and free up some space. As it is now it takes up two because of the tilted frog. Something to mull over during lunch.

it's been working
Rather than use sandpaper inbetween applications, I've been using this ratty bar towel. It's got glue wipe ups on it and it is kind of stiff. It leaves some lint behind but it seems to smooth out the frame without any other problems. I use canned air to get rid of the lint before I put on the iron and tannic acid.

getting low
The steel wool pad is still together and it is very soft to the touch. Some of it has dissolved but I would say about 1/2 of it is still there. I think I have enough to put on a few more coats.

fingers crossed on opening up my #2
my first look see
I am already smiling because this casting is twice as thick as other #2.  The low knob isn't beaded and doesn't have any damage to it that I can see.

looks clean
This plane was rehabbed recently and if it wasn't the previous owner took awfully good care of it.

iron and chipbreaker
Both of these are clean and rust free looking. And there is a lot of life left in the iron.

rear end of the bus
The lateral adjust is dirty but it is stiff and isn't flopping back and forth. The tote is intact and doesn't have any signs of having been repaired. The horn looks good too. It is in one piece, no chips or dings, nor any drag marks from the lateral adjust. I think that this is the original finish on the tote and knob too.

screws aren't stripped
I checked both of these before going any further. If either or these had any problems it would be on it's way back.

there's rust under there
mixed up a fresh citrus bath
brushed off as much rust as I could before the citrus bath
sole looks good
Other than the toe being rounded over a little, the sole looks good. There aren't any scratches, rust pits, or gouges anywhere on it or on the cheeks.

cleaning the brass adjuster and barrel nuts
The adjuster is filthy and crud encrusted. The barrel nuts  cleaned up by sanding them. I tired using the orange cleaner on the adjuster but it didn't help much.

brass soaking in Bar Keeps while I have dinner
had to wire brush to see it
few rust spots on the heel
R/L cheek walls are rusty and have paint loss
lightly sanded
This took almost no effort at all to get down to bare metal. I lost a lot more paint here and got the same result on the left cheek wall. It is looking like I'll be painting this plane body.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What do the letters represent in the stock market acronym NASDAQ?
answer - National Association of Securities Dealers Automated Quotations

just the frame and ..........

Wed, 05/17/2017 - 12:57am
Today we finally had a decent spring day for the month of  May. The temp hit almost 79F/26C on my porch thermometer and tomorrow it is supposed to be in the low 80'sF/27'sC. It was sunny and breezy all day long which was very much welcomed. For the last week or so it has been raining off and on with one cloudy day after another. It was nice to finally go to work this morning without having to wear a jacket. I should be able to do this now till at least october.

it's faded a bit
It is black but it shows a lot of brown in it too. This is only the third application so there is still a ways to go.

the outside rabbet
This part was a light brownish color with a lot of white yesterday. It looks like I did miss it or maybe it just needed a couple applications to darken up.

the inside rabbet
This also darkened up a lot too.  This will be hidden by the matting but I don't want to chance any light reflecting off this if it isn't black.

tannic acid applied
Nice and black again. After the tannic acid I put on the iron followed again by tannic acid. I did this so that the last application will be tannic acid which makes the frame blacker than the iron does.

getting closer
This should be done ebonizing this weekend and then I can apply the finish. The finish will be shellac and then it is off to the frame shop to get the the certificate mounted and matted.

shucks, it is 2 1/4" wide  (5 1/2 iron)
 I learned in twenty years in the Navy to only 'expect what you inspect'. Here I didn't inspect and ass-u-me-d that this was a 2 3/8" wide iron. The inspection tonight showed me that I was OTL on that thought.

I did this
The lever cap from the 4 1/2 and the 5 1/2 match. There is maybe a frog hair difference in the width of the two at the most. From this bit of brilliance, I deduced that the iron was 2 3/8" wide. I checked and inspected the lever caps but didn't repeat with the irons.

the 4 1/2 iron doesn't fit the 5 1/2
This I didn't do. I thought since the chipbreakers were the same, the irons had to be the same. I was wrong and the irons were right.

4 1/2 lever cap in the 5 1/2
the 5 1/2 lever cap in the 4 1/2
It's a good fit of the 4 1/2" lever cap in the 5 1/2". There isn't as much wiggle room with the 4 1/2 lever cap in the 5 1/2 but there is some and it fits.

my japanese 4 1/2 iron
Since this is a metric equivalent of 2 3/8" inches I thought it might fit. It is inbetween 2 5/16 and 2 3/8. Checked the fit but no joy in Mudville.

I'm screwed on having an extra 5 1/2 iron
I read over Patrick Leach's blood and gore on the 5 1/2 and it was not encouraging at all. It seems the width of the iron for the 5 1/2 I have (2 1/4" wide) are as easy to come by as bucket full of hens teeth.

Nothing came in today and nothing was up on the tracking sites for anything neither. It is looking like I'll be getting my toys on friday or saturday. Maybe, I'll know better when the tracking numbers get up on the USPS site.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How thick is gold leaf for gliding and lettering?
answer - about 1/200,000 of an inch thick.

frame and lever cap.....

Tue, 05/16/2017 - 12:42am
I came home tonight hoping that I would have a few of my toys to open up. Alas, it wasn't so sports fans. The only thing I got was my lever cap which isn't a bad thing really. It has been raining off an on all day long so maybe it's a good thing I didn't get the #2 and/or the miter box today. Tomorrow is supposed be sunny followed by a couple of cloudy days. Besides, the delivery guys don't always put the boxes in a plastic bag when it rains. And I don't want either of them getting wet.

Got a surprise from Bill Rittner. He said he wasn't accepting new orders until june 10th but I placed one anyways telling him I would pay for it now and he could ship in june. He emailed saying that my order was in the mail today. I bought two barrel nuts and two brass toe screws from him. Getting that email was a nice surprise.

back of the frame after round one
There are two spots on the frame that didn't change color that much. One is the right side inside rabbet. The other one (which I forgot to snap a pic of) is at the top outside. I'm not sure if I forgot to hit these two with either the tannic acid or the iron. I'll be checking these two spots again tomorrow after round two has dried.

I may have dodged the bullet here
Those black spots are the hide glue I couldn't clean up. All of the hide glue spots turned black. With the rest of the frame black, these spots may blend in and disappear.

forgot one step
I didn't raise the grain before I put the tannic acid on yesterday. I sanded the entire frame with 320  tonight and I sanded through to bare wood in a few of spots. I may have to do an extra ebonizing dance step to make up for this boo-boo.

sanded, brushed off, and ready for the next round of ebonizing
I have my happy face on
It's black as in the edge of space black after two applications. There are a few spots here and there that are a bit lighter but I have a few more applications to go. This is only two coats of tannic acid and iron and it is looking good. I'm going to ebonize this one step at a time - put on the tannic acid and let it dry and then put on the iron and let that dry. Wait a day for both to set up and repeat it.

my 1905-1911 5 1/2 lever cap
I don't know where the seller got these dates from but he said it's from a 5 1/2 type 11 and it matches what I have.

it is rust free
This is the first lever cap I have bought that did not have any rust on it anywhere. I can usually raise some rust by sanding and wire brushing, especially on the back side of it. I'll take not having to give this a citrus bath.

the back of the lever cap
This one has 2 1/4 on it which is the width of it. Maybe the 5 1/2 labeled the frogs and the lever caps? I've seen castings marks on the back like the letter B and S but this is the first time I've seen something like this.

which one do you like?
I prefer the plain lever cap. I know it's a Stanley plane and I don't need to see that name on the lever cap. If anything is to be on the lever cap I think it should be my name.

sanding the lever cap
I watched a You Tube video where a jack size transitional plane was rehabbed. The person doing it sanded the lever cap like this on his RO sander. Something I never considered doing. He used the disc and then he put a piece of sheet sanding paper (looked like 400 grit W/D) on the RO and worked the lever cap on that. Other than a lot of noise and vibration, this worked ok. It isn't something that I think I'll do again though. Didn't like the noise and I definitely didn't like the vibration. My hands are still tingling a little 2 hours later.

the dynamic duo
4 1/2 on the left and the 5 1/2 on the right
The 4 1/2 lever cap hasn't been sanded at all. The 5 1/2 has a bit of shine to it and I like that. I'll have to think of another way to sand up a shine on my lever caps.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a pangram?
answer - a sentence or verse that contains every letter of the alphabet

mother's day.......

Mon, 05/15/2017 - 1:00am
I took my wife out for lunch today and let her pick the eatery too. It was kind of a strange day for me because my youngest is now a mother too. The memories of her laughing in her room with her sister are still fresh and now she has her own child to raise. It is hard sometimes to let the old go and get in step with the new. I'm looking forward to finally seeing my grandson next month so I'll be step.

In keeping with mother's day, besides lunch, I was a good boy and got the plate rail shelf installed. No major hiccups to deal with and the only PITA was hauling my fat ass up and down the stairs to get tools. I also managed to squeeze in almost finishing my 5 1/2 and doing step one of the ebonizing on the frame. Some of the non plate rail stuff was done before oh dark thirty and the rest when making trips to the shop to get tools for the plate rail installation.

frame sanded and ready to ebonize
back of the frame
I planed the corners flush and that is all I'm doing here. None of this will seen when it's on the wall.

potential problem
I'm not sure how the ebonizing will work on this. I scraped and sanded what I could and this little bit of dried glue is there to stay.

new tannic acid
The tannic acid I mixed up a couple of weeks ago had mold blooms floating on top of it. Mixed up a new batch and tossed the old one.

sanded up to 320
This is where I usually stop sanding on rehabs but this is streaky and I can still see scratches on the sole.

adjuster is done
The back part of the adjuster got a bit of a reddish hue back but the front is shiny still. This is what is most visible so I'm calling this done.

400 grit
My 400 grit sanding belt is glazed and doing nothing so I switched to a block of wood wrapped with 400 grit.

600 grit shine
I was able to get all the scratches polished out with the 400 grit but I still had a few hazy looking spots. The 600 grit polished them all away and I ended up with a great shine.  Again this is something that I don't normally do. I only did this to remove the scratches and the hazy spots on this plane.

the sole
There are 4 black spots on the sole between the mouth and the heel about the mid point that are still there. They don't look like rust pits but even 80 grit didn't remove them or even tone them down some. They are permanent residents now.

tannic acid applied (pic with flash)
It's been about 30 minutes since I put the tannic acid on and the frame as gotten a blackish, grayish hue to it. I can still see the hide glue spots so I'll have to wait and see what the iron does to it.

this pic didn't flash
 This looks promising color wise and the brownish spots are the hide glue.

the japanning on the 5 1/2
the heel
This is one part of plane rehabbing I can go either way on. As long as they aren't rusty, I am ok with this look. I think I'm going to leave this as it is for now. I may come back to this if the urge to paint overcomes me.

the back of the frog
This is the frog as I got it. I haven't cleaned this at all and it appears it is missing a lot of paint.

cleaned and wire brushed
This is a definite maybe for a paint job. If it is done, it will be later on as I have way too many things in the queue right now.

my frog sanding board
I saw this on plane rehab blog a few years ago but I don't remember who it was. It wasn't my idea but it works great.

glue a 1/2 sheet of sandpaper to the board
cut out the middle part
sand away
You don't have to take the lateral adjust off to sand the face of the frog. You do have to pay attention to where the disc is on the other side. On my 4th or 5th time using this to rehab a frog, I knocked the disc off while sanding and I didn't notice it until I was putting it back together.

scraping the face
As I was sanding this I was loading the paper up with a lot of black stuff that was clogging and glazing the sandpaper. I used a razor blade to get the face clear and remove most of the black stuff on it.

I've got a hump
I can feel this bump with my finger. I can also see it is proud of the rest of the surface. This would take a year of sundays to flush with the rest of the of frog face.

sped things up
I filed the hump off and I checked my progress with a 6" rule to make sure I didn't file myself into La La Land.

almost done
The frog is still loading the paper up with black stuff but it isn't as bad now.

stopped the frog work and applied the iron
This looks good and I think I may be able to ebonize this frame after all. The iron stuff is still on the wet side here.

not sure if this is hide glue or not
there was hide glue at this corner
This appears to be working on the hide glue up to a point.

3rd paper change
The frog has an even scratch pattern from top to bottom and I'm close to calling this done.

part one of the plate rail
The left and right aprons are leveled and installed first.

trying to find a stud
My wife painted over my marks for the studs and I had to hunt for one. I got it on the fifth try.

made a 16" stud finding gauge stick
I had marks on the aprons for studs but I think I mixed the R/L ones up so I didn't hit studs on any of them. This will be painted so I'm not too concerned about the holes.

first hiccup
The center support that hides this joint, can't. The left apron end is proud of the right one. This wall moves in and out like a roller coast ride.

what I have to remove
knifed my lines
chiseled the face first
split off the waste
It took a few times but I eventually got down to my lines.

I screwed this in place from the clock shelf down into the top of the support.

back to the frog
The frog is flat in both 'X' directions and I couldn't see any light under the ruler.

There isn't any need to make this shiny. Even if I did, you wouldn't see it until you changed the iron out. Flat and smooth is all I need here.

5 1/2 and 5 side by side

rear end view
I like the look and feel of the 5 1/2 over the 5. I think with my 4 1/2 this will be the other half of the dynamic duo for me.

nice fluffy shavings
This planes glides makes shavings like a dream. I'm not done setting it though. I couldn't get even shavings out of both sides of the mouth. I didn't have the time to do it now but I did satisfy my urge to see shavings made by it.

no room
This is where I keep my bench planes and I don't have the room for the 5 1/2.

thinking of moving these 3 to make room for the 5 1/2
plane till location
This is the only spot by my bench that I can use for the plane till. The only downside to it is that is will be on the opposite side of the bench that I work from. Something to be done in the future.

my molding workbench
You don't need a lot of tools to cut and fit moldings.

one piece here
My wife wanted something here to hide the top of the wallpaper. I used a piece of the same molding that is between the corbels.

here too
I wasn't going to put one here but my wife wanted it so I put one. Plate rail shelf is now done. My wife will paint this and all that is left is to finish the counter back splashes. Now that it is up, I am not that fond of it. But I don't have to like it, just my wife does and she likes it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What are pilchards?
answer - young sardines

rehabbing a 5 1/2.......

Sun, 05/14/2017 - 1:05am
Didn't want to do much in the shop today which is a rare occurrence for me . I would have liked to have gotten the 5 1/2 done but that didn't happen neither. The brass adjuster knob ate up a lot of my time along with trying to get the sole sanded smooth.  And both of them didn't make it into the completed column. Add to the mix working on the frame and just being bone tired, not a lot got done working at snail's pace. I was hoping that my lever cap would have come today but it didn't. I'll have to wait for that until next week. Along with my miter box and the #2.

not shiny yet
This was kind of shiny but it has tarnished since then.  I mixed up another batch of Bar Keeps and let it soak again for a while.

back flattened
While the adjuster was soaking I flattened the back. It took a long time to get to this stage due to the hump in the middle. The shine took it's sweet time spreading out from the middle to the sides.

surprised by this
I had a burr that almost went across the entire edge. I went back to the 80 girt runway and did the back some more until I got a burr that went side to side.

grinding a new angle
Started this on my coarsest diamond stone and after 5 strokes I saw that I had a long ways to go so I switched to the 80 grit runway. After I got a consistent grind, I went back to the coarsest diamond stone and worked my way up to the 8K and then the strop.

The iron is sharp, the chipbreaker is fettled the way I like it, and I have a new old chipbreaker screw installed. There is a lot of life to this iron and it's the same size as my 4 1/2 so I can use the spare irons for it here too.

been soaking for about 20 minutes
still not shiny
This is the first time that Bar Keeps hasn't gotten the adjuster shiny after one application.  I scrubbed the crap out of this with a toothbrush without raising a shine. I switched to a brass brush and got better results.

finally got a little bit of a shine
This doesn't look as good as the #2 adjuster looked that I did last week. Close but still far enough away from the stake to not to count as a point.

the back
The back of the adjuster which is mostly unseen is shinier than the front part.  Maybe the Bar Keeps I'm using is toast. It's been in the shop since last year and it is coming out of the can in clumps. I bought another one when I went to the grocery store.

my plane parts
The frog adjuster screw by finger is what I want to replace. It isn't going to happen today because I don't have one.

barrel nuts
I didn't have to buy new barrel nuts because I have more than enough. However, I don't like these because they aren't domed. These have a chamfer running on the outside edge. I like the domed ones that Bill Rittner sells. They blend in with the front knob whereas these tend to end up a bit below the hole for them in the knob.

new Bar Keeps
This stuff came out powdery and not clumpy like the stuff I have now. I mixed up another batch and and stuck the adjuster in it for another soak cycle.

working on the sole
This is 220 grit and it isn't doing much to the sole. I'd be here using this until next year before I would see any improvement. I'm not trying to getting this to look like a mirror. I just want the sole clean and smooth. I dropped down to 180 and then 120 and I still wasn't getting a scratch pattern from the toe to the heel. I put my lowest grit belt on which is 80 grit.

switched to working on the frame
Making the rabbet to hold the glass, matting, and the certificate. If I made the rabbet in the frame it would make it too thin. Not to mention that I don't think there is sufficient meat there to do that. I like making my rabbets this way and there are a few advantages to doing it this way.

First I don't make the frame weaker by making a rabbet in it nor do I thin the interior profile down.  Adding these strips to make the rabbet crosses the miter serves to strengthen it on the back. The last point I like about this is that the frame stands off the wall and it doesn't lay up flat on it. I used butt joints on this so that they would cross the miters rather then line up with them. I glued these in place with hide glue only, no fasteners were used.

cooking away
Tomorrow I'll try to ebonize this and see what that looks like. If it doesn't work I have a rattle can of black lacquer spray paint. There are a couple of spots that show some dried hide glue and I'm not sure if the ebonizing will work on them. My fingers are crossed and I'm thinking happy thoughts.

back to mindless back and forth sanding
This is 80 grit but it is an old belt and it isn't cutting fast enough for me.

why I changed belts
This belt is making a consistent scratch pattern toe to heel except of two strips by my fingers. I worked this for five minutes and they weren't disappearing. Changed the belt to a fresher older one.

The two stripes are slowly disappearing but it is going to be a while before they disappear.

finally shiny
I took this upstairs and started sanding it with 400 grit sandpaper. I was able to sand away the reddish stuff that was inside of this. I got it shiny yesterday but it tarnished and got the reddish hue that I sanded away today. I'll keep this upstairs and see if it stays shiny.

the unseen part is as good as the front
It looks like tomorrow I'll be putting the plate rack shelf in place. My wife painted and wallpapered that wall today and she wants the shelf done tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first professional athlete to have his number retired?
answer - Lou Gehrig's #4 on July 7, 1939

I'm done.....maybe.......

Sat, 05/13/2017 - 1:12am
I've been working OT now for a couple of months and my number goal was to funnel every OT dollar I made into my bills. Well I'm finally almost there. On june first I will pay off my last bill and be debt free except for the mortgage. That will be paid off in 2021 which is also the year I am shooting to retire on the last day.

I suffered a bit a relapse today where I went a bit nutso buying things. I saw a beautifully restored Stanley 358 miter box for $179 (with all the parts). That price includes shipping but it doesn't come with a saw. I have a Diston saw from my paperweight 358 that I can use there. If it doesn't fit, Lie Neilsen makes replacements.

The miter box was followed by my acquisition of a Stanley #2 type 11. This one looked pretty good in the pics and I have my fingers crossed on it. Before I ponied up my $$, I inquired about the return policy. If I'm not satisfied with it, they will accept it back. I'll get this probably tuesday or wednesday.

I found a lever cap for my 5 1/2 on eBay. Although I loathe buying anything off eBay, I have had good luck buying plane parts there (knocking on wood). I haven't found any of the tool mongers I frequent selling plane parts other than an occasional plane iron and never screws, chipbreakers, etc.

The last parts I bought were two brass barrel nuts and two brass toe screws for the tote. These four parts are replacement modern ones. I won't be getting these until after June 10th. The seller is jammed up with orders and isn't accepting any new ones until then.

I'm calling my collection of Stanley planes done. I have the 10 1/2 so I don't need to get the #10. I have zero interest in the #1 but all of this is subject to change. For now, once I get the 5 1/2 rehabbed and then the #2, there will be much joy and dancing in the streets of Mudville.

Another short night in the shop and I was prepared to put in OT there tonight. Ran smack dab into an accident on the way home. It was avoidable too as I came around the bend there it was. No chance to back up and go home on 95. And I was third in line to find it. Both drivers refused to move their cars until the cops got there so I got to do a Rorschach test on the cloud formations in the sky for over 30 minutes.

the after pics
This is what they looked like after soaking in Bar Keeps for about an hour while I had dinner (Thursday). Almost all the black crap is gone but I don't have shiny brass. And I like my brass to be shiny.
parts are done bathing
I pulled out the parts and put them all in a strainer. I rinsed them off with hot water in the kitchen sink and the blew them dry with my shop hair dryer.

sanded the top of one of the barre nuts
This will shine up ok but the slot is mangled up a bit and I don't like it. The other one is better but I'm not happy with how that looks neither.

these parts I'm keeping
these parts I'm replacing
The two screws are for the adjuster tab (the smaller one} and the larger screw is for the toe on the tote. The tab adjust screw is iffy because I'm not sure if I have one of them in my plane parts goodie box. I think I do but on the other hand I have trouble remembering what I had for breakfast at lunchtime. If I don't have one I'll use it. I'm replacing it because it has a pebbled look on the entire head.

first time I've seen this
I don't recall ever seeing the plane # being marked on the frog.

quick check on the iron
It looks like I have a hump on the back of the iron. I got the chipbreaker prepped and I rounded the corners on the plane iron. Another thing I'll finishing prepping tomorrow.

I got a replacement screw for the chipbreaker. I got the lever cap for the 5 1/2 from the same seller of the chipbreaker screw. I had bought 4 of them from him and I only needed one. It is nice to have spares.

still not shiny
I cleaned this up with orange cleaner and stuck in the Bar Keep and water stuff left over from yesterday for 20 minutes. A little cleaner but not shiny.

improved this look
I don't have time to do it now but tomorrow I'll do the Bar Keeps dance steps with this. I'll do it as many times as I have to until I get the shine I want.

shiny brass adjuster on the going back #2
I have a ways to go to match this but it's time to quit the shop for today.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first black presidential candidate nominated at a national political convention?
answer - Fredrick Douglas in 1888


Fri, 05/12/2017 - 12:59am
I did the splines yesterday on the frame wrong. The grain on the splines wasn't running across the face of the miter like they should. Instead they were parallel to them. They wouldn't offer any resistance at all to the miters moving. I only noticed it as I was tapping the last one home.

I was going to leave them like this because this is a frame that will hang on the wall in my wife's office. After reading a couple of comments and getting a huge blown pic of a spline in an email from a friend, I changed my mind. Fixing that is what I did tonight. These set backs are inconsequential as there is no dead line for this to be completed.

there is a 5 1/2 in there
I had a hard time resisting the urge to unwrap this right away and check it out. Instead I was a good little boy and turned my attention back to the frame.

set up overnight
It is May here in my corner of the universe and the temperatures are struggling to get up to where they should be. Nights are running in the middle to high 40's F with the days barely making it to 56-57 F. The furnace is still kicking in during the night which is a PITA. I thought I was done paying for heat until november. In spite of the cool temps it seems the shop is staying warm enough for the hide glue to cure.

sawed the bad splines off as close to frame as I could
the bad spline
I sawed the spline kerf on the center and I was hoping I could leave this one and saw a new kerf next to it. Not enough meat to do that so I planed this spline flush and I sawed the new kerf in the first spline.

this is toast
As I was planing this it broke but there was still enough to get four splines. My first stroke on this broken piece of scrap made a split that went about 1/2 way down the length.

new spline stock
I sawed out two of these on the tablesaw. The first one was way too thick but this one was thinner and almost fit. It took less than 5 minutes of sanding and checking before I got a slip fit.

new splines cooking
New splines with the grain going across the face of the miters.

still together
I did a quick, light planing on the four corners to remove most of the paper I had there to keep the frame from being glued to the bench. Not even an inkling that the miters would or were even trying to move or open.

tote and knob from new old 5 1/2
Both of these are in good shape. There are no cracks, obvious glue lines, or repairs on the tote. There isn't even a chip or a ding anywhere around the top of the horn. And I have a low knob and it isn't beaded. Non beaded low knobs are my preference. The knob is in as good of shape as the tote is.

this isn't a type 11 lever cap
I'll have to check this but if I remember right, the Stanley was put on the lever caps with the type 13 planes. Either way this is getting replaced with a lever cap that is sans the Stanley name.

No pitting and rust free. I think someone has at least done rust removal on this plane and it was recent too. The mouth looks good too. Front and rear are parallel and appear to be square to the sides. No dings or chips on either side too.

both sides are clean looking
There is a little bit of wanna be rust blooms on the heel here and some on the other side too.

lateral adjust is way too loose for my liking
I peened the other side and stiffened it up a lot. Doesn't flip flop anymore now. The right top of the frog has a pebbled look to it. This is usually what rust pitting looks like after it is cleaned up.

the frog adjust tab
This is pebbled too and I would bet a lung that it was totally rusted and derusted. This will be tossed in the citrus bath overnight too along with the frog. It doesn't and won't effect it's use adjusting the frog.

Both sides of this and iron looked damn good. Clean and shiny for the most part and no rust to be see anywhere on it. I hit this area with a wire brush and rust popped up. I tossed into the citrus bath too.

iron advance knob
This thing is filthy dirty and it is the worse looking knob I've seen. I have no idea what that black stuff there is. 100+ years of accumulated use and workshop crap? I wonder about this and how long it had been used and how long it has been idle before I took up stewardship of it.

bar keeps first
I put the brass adjuster knob and the brass caps for the front knob and tote in here too. I let this go and soak while I had dinner. They didn't come out clean but they look better than the before pics. I'll have to scrub them with a degreaser and then repeat the bar keeps again. I'll do that tomorrow.

I haven't used this plane yet and I already like it. I like the width of this much more than that of the #5. The only problem I see with this is I don't have a hole to put it in under my workbench. (That is where I keep my bench planes) This may force my had because I've been thinking about making a till to keep all my planes in one spot. Right now they are spread out around the shop in 4 different places.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many US Presidents were Quakers?
answer - two  Herbert Hoover and Richard Nixon

excitement post pt IV........

Thu, 05/11/2017 - 1:02am
Blogging about making a picture frame is not the most exciting thing in world. For me it is a skill builder because I suck at doing them. I have made some large strides in the skill department making them though. I think the two biggest things I improved on are the miter angles and having the frame corners line up dry. Gluing the frame up still needs some improvement but overall it is much better than what I was doing a year ago.

I had to re-glue 3 corners twice
Fingers crossed here that the frame doesn't pop up off the bench when I take the clamps off.

one corner is slightly off the bench
Yesterday when I clamped this down to the bench, the two corners that didn't have the miter clamps were about an 1" off the bench. So this I'll take.

it looks like it is flat to the workbench
it survived
I dropped the frame onto the workbench from a height around 6-8 inches to test the corners. I did it with my eyes closed. When I opened them I saw this. It is looking like I won't have to glue the last corner again after all.

passed the last test
I shook all four sides one at a time and it is still together. If it is still in one piece after these two tests, I should be able to plane and sand the frame and not worry about it coming apart.

sawing splines
two saw cuts
The spline wouldn't fit in the first saw kerf I made with the carcass saw. That kerf was too thin. I used my sash saw to make it bigger. The kerf is still undersized a little and wedges I sawed won't fit.

worked and didn't work
Trimming these was easy and I could kind of control how much wood I wanted to remove. But these wedges are small, thin, and split into too many pieces when I picked them up. The grain runs from the top to bottom helping these break even more readily.

found a thin scrap of poplar
I had one other problem with the first wedges I did and that was it was too small to fill the kerf side to side. This scrap will do it and I have enough to do all four corners 4 times over if I need to.

I clamped the far end and planed the opposite one with the 4 1/2. I got a slip fit after a few trial checks.

not snug and not loose
I sawed this off and glued it in place. I sawed this first spline slot by eye. On the others I marked lines on either side of the miter to saw down to and I should have done it with this one. Part of the learning curve.

this surprised me a lot
The dry fit of the spline was easy to put in and take out with my fingers. I put hide glue in the kerf and some on the spline and I could only insert the spline about 1/2 way. The spine seized and I could not get it to seat on the bottom of the kerf by pushing on it with my fingers. To seat the spline I had to tap it down with the hammer.

I had to use the hammer on the other 3 splines too. With the hide glue I expected it to act like a lubricant and have the spline slide down into position. I know hide glue grabs and pulls parts together but I didn't expect it to happen so quickly.

I'll trim these tomorrow
I've been thinking about not ebonizing this and just painting it black. The miters aren't perfectly closed up and I'll have the spline ends to deal with too. I'm not sure how the ebonizing will do on them. I will try one application and then go from there.

bottom is done
I got six coats of shellac on the feet and the bottom of the shelf. I'll set this aside for a week or so before I apply the shellac to the rest of bookshelf.

not done yet
This will have to wait until the feet cure out for a while.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first US President not born in Virginia or Massachusetts?
answer - Andrew Jackson

picture frame part III........

Wed, 05/10/2017 - 12:59am
After tonight's work it is looking like there is going to be a few more parts to this before I get it to the picture framer. Even if I could have done more, it still would have been a short day in the shop. My wife is coming home tonight and I want to cook something for her that she can warm up in the nuker. I'll be long dead in the bunky when she rolls in and I know she'll be hungry. I'll catch up with her on wednesday.

new torture test
I thought of this as I was carrying it from the tablesaw to the workbench. Can the frame withstand the shock of being dropped onto the bench from a height of about 12"?

no it can not
Repeated the dance steps from last night except I had two corners to glue this time. What are the odds that the remaining one will pop apart tomorrow?

setting up until tomorrow
 With the two corners clamped the two opposite ones decided to raise up off the bench. I clamped them down and I'll have to check this out tomorrow. A twisted frame will put me back to square one.

walnut bookshelf
Whenever I do projects that require finish on the bottom they usually get dirty. They get that way because I don't allow sufficient time for the finish to cure there. I am going to try something different here. I am going to apply the finish to the bottom and then let it cure for a few days before I flip it and do the rest of it.

went overboard
I got three coats of a 1 lb cut on this except for the top of the sides. I kept on going because after I got the feet done I wanted to see how the sides would look with finish on them. All the little weird looking areas are gone and I don't think they will be a problem now.

made a pit stop at the post office
This was easy - went in and grabbed a box and left. No interaction with the clerks at all or having to wait in line. And I have plenty of packing material from things I and the wife have bought in the last few weeks. I will pack up the #2 and bring it to the post office on saturday to ship it out.

Jim Bode emailed me twice today. Once to tell me that he another 5 1/2 coming in and he would send pictures of it. He also told me that the 5 1/2 that had 'damaged' stamped on it had sold.  Four hours later he emailed me again saying he had found the 5 1/2 I ordered originally. It was found on another shelf and he shipped it out to me today. It is looking like I can scratch this one off the list and concentrate on getting a #2 and a #10.

Time to go cook some chicken breasts.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a rhykenologist?
answer - someone who collects wooden planes

partial joy in Mudville........

Tue, 05/09/2017 - 1:05am
I have the proverbial good news, bad news situation. And the good news is good but not super and the bad news isn't all bad neither. The good news is about the Stanley #2 and the not so bad news is about the certificate frame. All in all pretty good all around.

I was a wee bit jittery when I came home tonight because I wasn't sure what to expect with the frame. Whenever I make a mitered frame I always shake the crap out of it. I do every single side and I shake it like I stuck a wet finger in 220 volt outlet. My last frame didn't survive the first leg. I was hoping I would do better this time.

still flat on the bench
The clamp at the right in the middle was to keep the frame from moving as I clamped the corners. When I popped it off the frame was still flat on the bench. Good sign #1. Good sign #2 was the frame still was together after I took off the four miter clamps. Good sign #3 was the frame passing the shake test on sides 1 and 2.  One corner opened up on shake test with side #3.

I do this shaking test to ensure the frame is sound. If it can make it pass me shaking the crap out of it, it will make it to hanging on the wall.

the open corner
As luck would have I used hide glue on this. I warmed some up and put some on both sides of the miter. I clamped it and put it to set up on the tablesaw. Looks like one more day before I get to play some more with this. I have to saw splines for the corners and make a rabbet for the glass and matting to come.

my #2
She is a pretty looking plane in spite of the problems. The rosewood tote and low knob look great. This hasn't dampened my desire to get another #2. The outsides were sanded up to 320 and I stopped there.

the sole looks good which is confusing
I have a hump in this but when I sanded it I didn't get any indications of that. Can't explain that without getting a headache.

Patrick Leach answered my Email to him today and I was very much surprised by it. Instead of reading I had played with it and I owned it, and said he would take it back. Not only did he write and say he would take back the #2, he said I could also return the 10 1/2 that I had bought from him. I think he must have read my blog post on my woes with the #2 because I didn't mention the 10 1/2 in my email to him at all.

I wrote him back saying I would get the #2 back to him sometime this week but I was keeping the 10 1/2. I've been following his monthly for sale lists for years now and I don't believe that he knowingly put the 10 1/2 up for sale knowing it was repaired. He puts repaired tools up for sale all the time and always makes note it.

Him taking the #2 back and then offering to take back the 101/2 makes him a stand up guy in my eyes.  A lot of people I know say that his prices are high but I don't think so. I think that they are in line with other tool mongers I visit. I saw a #2 (type 13), with high knobs for $195 and another #2 that looked like a rusty door stop for $300 (he said it was a pre-lateral #2). I picked this one from Pat for $215 because I have bought so many other good tools from him. Maybe I'll get lucky and he'll have another #2 on June's sale list. Even after this I wouldn't hesitate to buy from him again.

So the saga with the #2 ends here. No more trying to bring this back to user status. I also lost out on the 5 1/2. I got an email today from Jim Bode saying that he can't find the plane so he gave me a refund. He has another 5 1/2 but he says it has damaged stamped on it. I thought about getting it but I don't want to take a chance on it. So the hunt continues for a #2, #5 1/2, and a #10.

still not done
I still can't bring myself to put plastic hands on this. I didn't spend much time in the shop tonight so I thought I would do this. It didn't happen again tonight. I looked at it for a few and said no again.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How much does the Oscar statuette weigh?
answer - 8 1/2 pounds

Stanley #2 day two........

Mon, 05/08/2017 - 12:27am
Slept in late today which is starting to be a habit for sunday. I still woke up at my regular time but I rolled over and fell asleep again. Got up at 0530 to start my day but I didn't make it to the shop until 0900. I did a bunch errands and some grocery shopping before everything got crowded. I did a lot of thinking about what could be wrong with the plane but I didn't come up with anything concrete that I could prove in a court of law.

right side shaving
I went back to the right side for the frog and I loosened that screw until it was just caught and not applying any real pressure on the frog. I advanced the iron until I got a shaving out of it.

left side
This shaving is half as thick as the right side one. This is an improvement over yesterday. In spite of this I couldn't make it even on both sides. Something else is OTL on this plane with the frog or the bed, or both.

center shaving is finally coming out full width
left side on test run #4

shaving on the right on test #4
The right shaving is still coming out even when I get nothing on the center or the left. The frog or something is titled to the right but what it is, I don't know.

basically one screw holding the frog in place
I also loosened the left screw and had it just tight enough to hold the frog in place. Still did nothing to make my boo-boo all better.

the iron is dead nuts square
Even if the iron wasn't square, I still could (and did) adjust the iron square to the mouth. After this I put this aside for now.

 From the comments I got on this, the majority sentiment says to return it to Patrick. A couple did say that a helicoil would work on fixing the stripped screw hole. I email someone who does plane restorations but he said he doesn't repair frogs or stripped screws in the bed.

Finding a machine shop around here is going to be a problem. I tried to find one to make my dovetail marking gauge and I got no takers. I don't think I will have any luck with someone wanting to do a small thread repair job neither. I'll give it a try nonetheless.

I sent an email to Patrick about this but I haven't gotten a reply back from him. If he will accept my returning it fine. If not I will do my best to get it working.

on a brighter note
I bought a 1/2" gouge that Josh from Hyperkitten that he said was sharp and ready to go. I have been looking for a 1/2" gouge and the handle on this one sold me.

he was right and it was sharp and ready to go
been looking for #49
box if up for grabs
Whoever wants this box and will pay the shipping to them, it's yours. The first email wins the prize. I have no need for the box nor the desire to stow it. I am not a collector and boxes like this hold zero interest for me.

I had to try it out
it works as advertised
The feedback from the stop was not felt readily. I got almost nothing when it had bottomed out. The right one I did first and chewed it up a bit around the hole. The left one I did second and it was better. I still didn't feel it but I was watching it this time. This is a handy gadget to have and setting it for a specific depth was way easier than I thought it would be. At least a couple of old tool acquisitions worked.

took the long screw out
I got the original screw and washer in the blue tape. I have another feeler out for someone who does this type of repair work.

making my wife's certificate frame
This was my first try at making a frame with the molding planes I have in my herd.

rounding over the center square part
I tried first to round it over with the small block plane but I didn't like the look .

tried the beading plane next
The largest bead iron just straddled the center square part. I had a hard time doing this because my fence was riding against bead and it was rolling as I did the round over. All I really got done was making a groove on the right side and never got a round over completed.

profile #2

profile #3
profile #4
profile #5
profile #6
the winner on the bottom
I'm going with this profile. I shortened the width from 1 5/8" to an 1 1/2" to decrease the width on the center square part.

stock prepped
I'm using poplar and once the frame is glued and together I will ebonize it.

sharpening the irons first
I just did this one and only used it once
touched it up on these two stones
Raised a burr before going from the 1200 diamond to the 8K stone.

flattening the back again
dropped back down to the coarsest diamond stone
I got it flat on this and then went back to my coarse diamond stone to finish it.

sharpened and hones up to 1200
Stropping the big flat bevel first.

small round strop for the curved parts
stropped the back
two long sides down
first screw up
Ruined this entire piece which was the two short sides. I made a run down the board and I didn't check to make sure I had the fence properly registered. Because I didn't have that I made a new profile and ruined this one. I did such a good job screwing this up, I did it on a second one too.

lot of respect for the old masters
I had to put a glove on because I could feel a blister coming on. I can't imagine what it was like for them to use molding planes 10 or more hours a day. This little adventure took me about an hour and I had enough of this when I got done.

finally got it rough sawn
shooting board set for 45°
I am not a fan of miters or mitering corners. I don't have a choice with this frame so I'll endure.

plane set for a light cut
beads are a bit off
planing the beads again
I have 45's on both ends so I had no way to clamp this flat and still run the beading plane. I clamped it in the vise in this orientation and ran the beading plane horizontally. The beads didn't line up because I did my usual tapered molding run.

all the corners closed up

using hide glue
I sized the miters and went upstairs and made a cup of coffee. After I got done with that I went back and glue the frame together. My last time gluing a frame with hide glue didn't work. The day after I glued it up when I first picked it up it fell apart. I'm hoping that this time I got good fitting miters and I sized them before I did the glue up. I'll see if there is any joy in Mudville tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What were the names of the 7 castaways on Gilligan's Island?
answer - Gilligan the First Mate, Jonas Grumby the Skipper, Roy Hinkley the Professor, Mary Ann Summers, Ginger Grant the movie star, and Thurston Howell III and his wife Lovey

a day from hell........

Sun, 05/07/2017 - 2:53am
Today didn't start with a lot of promise. I didn't want to get out of bed this morning to do my OT but I had signed on for 4 hours, so I had to go. It was drizzling when I went in which was better than the downpour that went on all day long on friday. When I came home it was still drizzling but the promise had been made for sunshine in the afternoon. I went to the shop and starting to work on finishing the rehab on my Stanley #2. This is where the fecal matter and the rotating wind generation machine met and shook hands.

first hiccup and it's a doozy
Look carefully at the two screw holes. The top one is wider than the bottom one. The top screw hole is wallowed out at the top. I found this after cussing up a storm trying to get that screw to turn in the hole with the frog on the bed.

frog screws
The left screw is just caught on the threads at the top. This hole is threaded ok and doesn't appear to have any damage to it. The right screw is just caught on the threads but it is almost down to the bottom. It is down over an 1/8" from the right one. Metal working is not my forte and I don't know if this is something that can even be fixed.

found a longer screw
The head on this screw isn't as big as the original but it is all that I could find in my goodie box of plane parts. I plan on filing the longer screw down a tad. The threads match but with the frog installed on the bed, this screw is too long.

filed away
I locked the screw in the jaws of vise grip pliers and filed the threads. It took two attempts before I got the fit ok.

this is a temporary fix
There is no way I can depend upon this holding up and lasting. I don't think I have one full turn worth of thread engagement. At best it will hold for while but if this is to be a daily user, it won't be able to handle the daily stress put on it.

If any metal workers out there have a fix, give a shout and leave a comment. My thought is that it should be re-threaded for the next size screw up but I don't know how to do that.

it feels secure
I have two screws in it and I'm hoping it will hold up and I can get the iron set and make some shavings with it.

my best fix
I got a full width shaving on both sides of the mouth but the right side is much thicker.  The middle shaving came out streaky and full of holes. Not like the intact full width shavings I got on the right and left. Things went south so quick from here I got blown over by the breeze.

I've already done 3
This is my fourth attempt at adjusting the frog to minimize the heaviness of the shavings on the right side. The lateral adjust did absolutely nothing to knock it down. The problem I'm having is I can't eliminate the right side shaving at all. No problems making the left side disappear, but the right side still spits out a shaving no matter where the frog is skewed in the mouth and where the lateral adjust is moved to.

right side shaving
I can get a wispy thin shaving on the right but I want the same thing on the left but it isn't happening.
hiccup #3
To get the iron to barely peek out past the mouth, I have to run the adjuster nut all they out. I don't think that the chipbreaker is the one that originally came with this plane.

&^$#@%*()(*^%#^*( plane
I skewed the frog,  incrementally right and left and I couldn't not even out the shavings coming out of the mouth. The right side spit out shavings no matter where the frog was positioned. I also could not get the left side to match what the right did.

I flipped the plane over and adjusted the iron parallel to the front of the mouth and I got the same results. The right side would always make a shaving and the left would/wouldn't. This is one series of speed bumps I have never encountered in all the planes I have rehabbed and set up for use.

my last try
I centered the frog between the two walls of the base. I adjusted the  iron parallel in the mouth by sighting it. I advanced the iron until I just saw it peeking out and I tried it. I got a teeny shaving in the middle, nothing on the left and nothing on the right. I advanced the iron a few frog hairs and I got a shaving on the right, a little in the middle and nothing on the left. By the time I advanced the iron to get a shaving on the left, the right side one was an inch thick. Well maybe not an inch thick but it was easily 3-4 times thicker than the left.

thin shaving on the right
a little from the middle
get thicker on the right and still nothing on the left
is the sole twisted?
I eyeballed this and there appeared to be a small amount of twist to the sole. Sighting down it from the heel, the heel right and the toe left were 1 frog hair high. Is this enough to cause my problem?

what does the 80 grit runway say?
I took 6 strokes back and forth on the sandpaper and stopped to look at my lines.

I'd say there isn't any twist
I seem to have a slight low spot behind the mouth on the right side.

ten strokes
All the the lines are gone and the scratch pattern is even and consistent end to end and side to side.

double triple checking myself again
 Made some lines to do one more run and see if I can repeat.

same pattern
Tried the dance steps with the shavings again and got the exact same crappola.  There is something obvious here that I must be missing. I have tried everything that I know and have used on previous planes but none of that is working.

it's a helicopter blade
I broke out my 12" precision straight edge to check the diagonals and I found this. According to this, I have a hump and I can see daylight at the heel and toe.

it isn't rocking no matter where I try it
I usually don't get discouraged much. In fact I usually get pissed and turn into a raging nut job who would make someone going postal looking like they were Mickey Mouse. Here I got discouraged. I spent a lot of my OT dollars on this plane and it so far, it is a piece of crap. The wallowed out screw hole in the frog really pisses me off and now that I can't adjust the plane to take an even shaving pushed me over the edge. Just had a thought - maybe having only that one screw really holding the frog is the cause of misery. Maybe that extra long one is exerting too much force on the that side? Something to check out tomorrow.

The last tool I bought from Patrick Leach was a Stanley 10 1/2 and that had a broken cheek that had been repaired (not mentioned in the write up). Now I have this #2 that can only be used for a paperweight. And an expensive paper weight at that.

I quit the shop after this. I was so damn bummed out by this experience that I didn't belong in it. I know I would have made one mistake after another all day long if I worked on something else. I thought I would finish up watching Richard Maguire's sharpening videos but I fell asleep at my desk. The video played but I don't even remember the opening credits.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many flowers are stamped on each side of an OREO cookie?
answer - 12 and each one has 4 petals

3 thread post......

Sat, 05/06/2017 - 1:19am
I had to slim this post down picture wise. I got three different topics and each ate up a lot of space on the memory card. I thought of putting it out as two posts but I thinned the pic count instead. This is what I did tonight in the shop and when I'm in my rocking chair I'm going to need all memory refreshers I can get.

I am little flush right now
My bills are all way ahead now and I got a pocketful of OT dollars waiting to be spent. I had ordered these two from LV last week and they came today. This morning while surfing my usual tool sites I came across a Stanley 5 1/2, type 11, for a C-note. I had the money so I pulled the trigger on it. I should get that next week.

not a toy - this is a fully functional teeny router plane
closed and open throat
Haven't tried it yet but it looked like I can put the iron 180 and use as an open throat router.

why I got it
I want to start using stopped dadoes for my box bottoms. The router iron is the same size as the 1/8" iron in the Record 043. It's a good match and I'll be able to get consistent groove depths with it.

LV tool buy #2

cabinetmakers screwdrivers for screw sizes #4 to #10
small Grace screwdrivers
These two have broken tips. The other Grace screwdrivers I have I don't have any complaints with. These I do. The tips broke off with very little force. I will use the other Grace screwdrivers for other things and I'll use the Chestnut ones for driving screws only.

tapered bulb shape
Good shape that fits the hand well and it has a presence. Even the smallest driver has some heft to it.. These won't be rolling off the bench on me.

U shaped tips
comes with a burnisher
The instructions show how to use this to roll a burr on the tip of the U. This increases the grip of it in the slot of the screw.

bottom to top #4, #6, and a #8vscrew
Perfect fit of the U tip in each screw. The last driver is for #10 screws of which I have none. And the number 10 driver won't fit in the #8 screw slot. I bought this mostly because 99.9% of screws I use are #4 to #8.

#2 plane parts out of the citrus bath
Both sides of the iron have a black spot that didn't rinse off nor could I rub it off with my finger.

found the S casting Pat mentioned
I was looking for this on the plane body. That has no markings at all.

holding the screws while I wire brushed them
the black spots sanded off easily
flattening the back
I rounded the corners on the coarsest diamond and went to the next one after I felt a burr.

back done up to 8K and I still have a burr

burr is gone
When I first read of this stropping of an iron on your palm, I thought it was a ludicrous idea. My opinion of that has changed and I strop on my palm all the time now.

prepping the chipbreaker
 I stoned the leading edge and then stropped it.

even side to side
needs a bit of shine
I forgot to take this off and clean it last night. This is the before pic.

tote and knob brass caps
I do like my brass to be shiny so I'll do these when I do the brass adjuster nob. This is the before pic.

These are the first tote and knob studs that I have seen this clean. I have a boatload of plane rehabs under my belt and these are the first that have not been rusted threaded end to threaded end.

had to stop here
I need the brass bits before I can put the plane back together. While those were soaking I oiled all the parts down.

the after pic
the brass cleaner
used this for years in the kitchen
Jonathan (benchblog.com//) blogged about cleaning brass with this and it does an awesome job. I put some water and Bar Keeps in the container and let the parts soak for about ten minutes. Pulled them out and scrubbed them with an old toothbrush.

the after pic
I have never gotten any brass adjuster knobs this clean with any other method. I used a bazillion different ones and none match the cleaning and shining power of Bar Keeps Best Friend .

plane #1 (last thread)
This is the shaving jam left over from the last tryout.

leading edge looks like crap
Right around where the greatest jamming occurs, is where the most damage to the mouth is. Not big chips missing but the edge is rough and not smooth like the sole is.

checking the  iron for twist
I don't see any twist in the back of the iron.

this tip is not sharpened and is misshaped
I looked at this with a magnifying glass and it needs some work to reshape and sharpen it.

another problem area
Where the pine build up is on the bevel, there is a burr. There shouldn't be one there and the rest of the profile is burr free too.

marked the area where I can feel a burr
I am going to sharpen this again and concentrate on the bottom bevel and the circular one.

sharpened up to 1200 and stropped
I did the small left side bevel by hand on the stones.

ready to road test again
felt a difference
The plane was easier to push and my shavings looked better this time. Thin and almost continuous end to end. It still jammed but I was able to make shavings for a longer time than I did yesterday. The profile looks pretty good for what I was able to do before the jam shut me down.

profile turned to liquid fecal matter
I started doing my tap and try dance steps and I ended up with this. The profile went south because I think I was taking a heavier shaving and I did not keep my original plane orientation on the last 4 end to end runs I did. The cutter seems to be taking a shaving on the front edge which it wasn't doing yesterday.

This is as far as I can go with this test piece of wood. I also think that this plane isn't made for 3/4" stock neither.  I got the sharp part of the iron figured out and the jamming has me stymied big time. I don't have more stock to sacrifice for testing for I'll put this aside for now. I'll pick this back up later and put a win in my column.

Tomorrow the plan is to finish rehabbing the #2, make a frame for my wife's newly awarded genealogy certificate, and do some work on the bookcase.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Which US President served as a hangman twice?
answer - Grover Cleveland while serving as a sheriff in Buffalo NY in the 1870's