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Accidental Woodworker

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The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2701125
Updated: 31 min 44 sec ago

gobble, gobble.......

17 hours 13 min ago
Happy Thanksgiving to all who hail from the states. Canada already had their thanksgiving day last month and I'm not sure about the rest of the world. I worked with an english guy for 7 years at my last job. He never understood our holidays, with thanksgiving being the worse for him to understand. Xmas was ok, but Labor Day and Memorial day were two others he didn't get. He thought Memorial day was redundant because of Veterans Day. If any other country has a Thanksgiving Day, I hope you have/had a happy one.

added two more to my herd of squares
I got a 8" and a 3" square and I think I'm calling it done for now. I am going to stop looking for a 15" one until after the new year rolls in. If I see one before then I'll buy it but I won't be actively looking for one.

my new to me 8" square, ain't 8 inches
The 3" one (which is a Stanley) is 3".

the upright ones need work
The 12" on the outside is slightly out. The 3" one, which I checked with my 6" engineer square, is off both on the inside and the outside.

I forgot my 6" Disston
I have other things I want to attend to first before I fix these squares. I'll keep them here until I get to them.

scraped the paint on the frog seat
I wanted to scrape this before it has a chance to really set and stick. It is dry to the touch but I'll wait until the weekend before I put it together. I still have to finish working on the chipbreaker and sharpening the iron.

wasn't expecting the box it came in
he said he only used it about 4 times
it has it's own unique personality
The angled rip cuts weren't too too bad to do. Starting the cut wasn't as easy as with my LN dovetail saw but each saw has it's quirks you have to get to know. The crosscut was especially hard for me to start on both of the half pins.

no other problems
Other than getting used to starting the cut, I saw no other particular hiccups with this saw. I especially like the weight distribution on this saw. To me felt almost neutral.

ready to check my magnet attraction
 I opened and closed the till several times and I did my idiot looking shaking of it also. I didn't hear nor feel anything rattling around in here.

that is where two magnets are
Those blacks spots must have a little metal dust in them.

these two are ok and passed all the tests
the next two passed all tests too
Four squares down and two to go.

15" square failed
 I can open and close the till and the 15" will behave and stay in it's holder. It won't pass even 1/2 a shake before it is rattling around in the inside.

I have one more 3/8 magnet for this
This square is heavy and I thought it would pop off on the slam the lid test but it didn't. One thing I will do with this is add a finger access cutout at both of the top corners. That will help to pop this off of the magnets.

12" did a bit better
It took 3 shakes before the 12" let go and started to rattle around in the box. This will need another magnet to help secure it. I ordered 10 more 1/2" magnets from Lee Valley today. The 1/2" magnets are about $2 each and one 3/4" is $9. Now that I have done this test, I'm thinking that I should have gotten at least one 3/4" magnet.

flushed up the front
this will be it's new home
I have a couple box latches coming in with the  magnets. I got two for just in case but I think I'll be ok with one.

got my saws out for figuring the size of till for them
My longest saw is a roughly 24" long, from the top horn to the toe.

nested together
This is the proposed way that I will stow the saws in the till. As they are here the width is less than 5". I'll have to add a few inches to that for the holders for the saws.

I love the fit and feel of this handle
the LN saw has a looser fit
My hand fills the Lee Valley handle without an atom of wasted space. It is better than a glove fit and feels unbelievably good in my hand. The Lee Valley handle is definitely a wow and maybe an extra loud whoopee thrown in too. I think the Lee Valley saw would be absolutely perfect if the LN plate was substituted for the Lee Valley one.

the look pretty similar but the LV handle gets a bucketful of gold stars IMO
rough ID measurements for the saw till
I haven't come up with a design for this yet. I'm pretty sure that it'll have a lid and the saws will go in and lift out through the top. It won't be a book like till like I made for the squares.

the handle is reluctant to come off
no mistaking that this is walnut (it doesn't look like rosewood)
handle came off the second one easier
I don't know what kind of wood this is. My first guess was beech.

my second guess was apple
My third one was I don't have a clue. It doesn't look like the beech I have in my stash. I don't have any apple wood pics in my wood book. It doesn't even mention apple at all. It also doesn't look like the pear wood which I do have a pic of. In the end it doesn't matter. I will strip and refinish both handles regardless of the species. I will clean the saw plates and try to raise a bit of shine on them too.

the finish isn't shellac
I rubbed a towel wet with alcohol on both handles and got nothing. It cleaned up both but it had no effect on the finish at all. I don't have any lacquer thinner so I can't check for it being lacquer. But that is what I suspect the finish probably is.

this plate has a lot of etch to it
All I can make out on it is 'New Bedford Mass' as the bottom line. I'm thinking maybe it is a hardware store saw?

this etch is even fainter
I can barely discern the Disston Saw symbol on this plate. No matter as I don't care about the etch that much but I was curious about what I could pick out.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Convicted murderer William Kemmler, was noted for what?
answer - the first person to be legally electrocuted 1890

needs one more day.......

Wed, 11/22/2017 - 1:30am
Last night (tuesday) after supper I went back to shop to check on my magnets. It had been almost two hours since I glued them in and I wanted to check on them. The bottle says it sets in about 30 minutes and full cure in 24 hours. The glue appeared to be set and was holding the magnets in place. I dropped the box on the workbench a couple of times and that didn't jar or pop any of them out.

Since the magnets were set I put the squares into their respective holders and opened and closed the lid several times. One magnet wasn't enough to hold the squares in place. Besides the jostling the squares will get opening and closing the till, there is the moving around and carrying of the box too. Before I left the shop I glued in more 1/2" magnets. That way I could be ready to test them when I got home.
what I left off with last night
The six inch combination square is the only one to survive 99% of the tests. It passed the all the open and shut tests but failed on the third shake box like I'm an idiot test.

15 and 12 inch squares
It was hit and miss with these two. One would last through one cycle of open/shut but not two. I thought the two magnets holding them would do the job but they still are not strong enough.

 Two 3/8" magnets on the 15" and 12" squares will hopefully be sufficient now. But I'll have to wait another day to see if I'm right. I drilled a couple of holes too deep, I want the magnets as flush as I can possibly get them. The closer the magnets are to the blades, they greater the attraction and the stronger the pull on the blade will be. On the holes I drilled to deep I filled in the bottom with plane shavings and then glued the magnet in.

I added one more 3/8 magnet to these
The holder on the left is for the all metal 6" Disston square and the right one is for the 12" combination square.

only one 3/8" magnet left
I have to buy some box latches so I'll add some magnets to the order.

second coat on the back of the bus
I used a metal enamel paint for this. I have done 2 other planes with this and I will stick to painting them. I like the coverage of brushing much better than spraying with a rattle can.

the front of the bus
After this has set up for a couple of days I'll sand the paint off the frog seat and the top of the sides.

did a little work on the frog  and nuts
I forgot to put some oil on these parts after I put them in the Evaporust and a few of them have rust blooms now.

fingers crossed on this
I added one more magnet to the 15" square holder. I won't be trying these out after supper but I'll wait until I get home from work tomorrow.

I am seriously considering painting this the same color as the toolbox. I have a Lee Valley dovetail saw coming that was being offered on Saw Mill Creek for $55. Once I get that I can start making the saw till box. The dovetail saw is the last one I had to get to complete the herd for Miles. I already decided that the saw till box will be painted so I might as well do the square till box too.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner Ferris Wheel?
answer - George Washington Ferris did for the 1893 Chicago World's Fair.

square till nearing completion........

Tue, 11/21/2017 - 1:16am
Spent my entire lunch break looking for box latches that I could buy locally. Lee Valley has them but they aren't offering any free shipping at the moment. Even if I doubled them it would still be less than the S/H charge. What I found locally was that everyone has a different name for them. In the end I found nothing locally and I will have to order from Lee Valley.

how will round 2 turn out?
it appears to be ok
I can still make out the crack lines but they appear to be solid. Nothing moved when I pressed against the crack with the saw plate. Everything looks like the glue up worked this time. The looseness in the plate is gone. Before I glued the crack I could feel the plate moving just by wiggling the handle. Not so this time but we'll have to see how long it holds up. That crack is in a bad spot.

sawing action feels better with the looseness gone
comparison half pins
The top ones were sawn with the older saw and the bottom ones with the LN dovetail saw. The older saw half pins look rougher sawn than the LN ones. Sawing them out felt the same as to sawing at an angle and cross cutting the half pins out. The LN saw felt smoother and a bit easier pushing but not by much.

old and new side by side
Ascetics aside, what I am must concerned with is the set. I can see the set in both saws and they feel about the same. Yesterday I thought the set in the older saw was excessive but after checking them side by side, it is barely a touch more than the LN saw. The thicker plate on the older saw I think was playing tricks on me.

sawed this pine without a whimper
Three gold stars for the older saw as it powered through this pine. I didn't try to saw straight but the saw did it seemingly on it's own. Usually on long saw cuts like I tend to veer off to the right the deeper I go. Here it was straight from the top of the cut to the bottom.  For now I think I'll hang on to this and use it for dovetailing in thick stock - 3/4" and above.

chamfered all the edges
 The chamfers on the spacers will help with getting this on and off easier.

first batter for the magnet
The two sizes I have are 3/8" and 1/2" diameter. Both are roughly 1/8" thick. The pull or attraction is a bit stronger with the 1/2" but I like the surface area more. I'm not sure if I'll have to use more than one but I'll start with one and evaluate it. What will drive it is whether or not one will hold the square in it's holder as the till is opened and closed.

not too bad for just eyeballing it.
It is flush and ready to be glued in.

going to try this
I couldn't find anything on the bottle saying what this will bond. I know it works on wood and I'll try it here with metal on wood. If it doesn't work I'll use epoxy.

Most of the mass and weight is here
It makes sense to me to put the magnet as close to this as I can. I am not sure one is going to work on holding either of the big squares. I'll keep happy thoughts on it until tomorrow when I can check it out.

if it doesn't work I'll put a second 1/2" one here
first coat is dry to the touch
I will let this camp out by the furnace for one more day. Tomorrow I'll put the second and final coat of black on it.

glue bond broke
I didn't clamp these yesterday when I glued them and the bottom lifted up. I put some of the rapid fuse glue on it and I'll clamp it this time to ensure a good bond.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the state sport of Maryland?
answer - jousting

good sunday production.......

Mon, 11/20/2017 - 1:18am
Got a lot accomplished today and that went hand in hand with the weather. This morning was raining with a strong wind blowing. By the time the afternoon came, the sun was out, the winds are died down some, it was kind of warm. My day started with me still having no direction on how to secure the squares in the square till but come 1500, I had a plan. We'll have to see if it works or not.

I have a new obsession
Got two new squares for me and 4" round leg dividers for Miles. The 6" square is square but the 10" I'm not sure of. The outside checks ok but the inside is off out at the toe. I ran out of plywood to check it on so it'll have to wait before I know for sure.

I like the round leg a lot more than flat ones
I use my round leg for dovetail layout I got these for Miles to use for that too.

Miles's dividers
The ones at the top are 4" dividers too but they are square legged with the tips being round. I'm going to take this one back and give Miles a 6" flat leg divider as a substitute. That will increase his range of what he can divide with them.

my square herd
Top to bottom, 12", 10", and 6". I am looking to add a 15", 8", and either a 3" or 4".

saws are done
Last night before I went to bed, I steel wooled both handles and put on another coat of shellac.  I put the final one on at oh dark 45 this AM. Done. Both handles appear to be beech but I wouldn't bet any body organs on that. They look a 100% better now than what they looked like when I got them.

other side
I think the both of these saws will serve Miles well.

Stanley 78 rabbet plane for Miles
It's complete and has seen a lot of use but is in pretty good shape.

original blade on the bottom
I had a 78 rabbet plane but I dropped it and it broke into 3 pieces. That was about 35 years ago and the only thing I kept from it was the iron.

the only problem
The fence rod is bent and not square to the body. Patrick Leach said in his Blood and Gore that this is a common problem with these planes. I have been trying to get in touch with St James Bay Tool because he makes and sells replacement fence rods and the cross grain spurs. No luck there yet.

I have found several rods on ebay but I am reluctant to buy because I don't want to get a bent one. Stanley still makes replacement fence rods (along with other parts) for the 78 but they are out of stock right now. St James Bay ebay store doesn't have the fence rod for sale but he does have the cross grain spur. I will wait and keep checking for the rod. I still have to rehab it so I have plenty of time.

nice feature of the 78
That plugged up screw hole behind the mouth is for the fence rod. You can use the fence on the right and left side of this plane. What you can't do is use the depth stop on the left side so you have to plane to a line. Still a handy feature that allows you to attack the grain from either direction.

this one is full of ????
slightly out of square on the left
I got the hole cleaned out and it appears that is was some kind of rubbery crap. It wasn't glue because it was soft and squishy and stretched as I pulled it.

seems to be out of square more on the right side
starting with 80 grit
Got the sole marked up so I can get an idea of the condition of the sole.

got my idea after 10 strokes
thanx for the tip Walter
It worked. The epoxy I applied to the inside of the lid built it up enough that lid fits snug now. It is upside down here and laughing at gravity.

fits just as good with the lid flipped 180
the shiny look is the epoxy
If this had been too tight I would have scraped the epoxy with a scraper. One other thing I thought of after the fact was I could have put some sawdust in the epoxy. That would have lent some roughness and friction to the lid. I didn't need it here but something to stow in the brain bucket for the next time.
Thanx again for the great tip Walter.

the saw glue up went south
It doesn't even look like I glued this at all.

I can still open the crack
round 2
I used the dental pick to keep the crack open as I poured glue into it. I got squeeze out along the entire crack line on the outside and the inside this time. So maybe this one will work now.

back to sanding the #6
My wife had woke up by now so I could use the vacuum cleaner. This is after about 10 minutes. I have a low spot forward of the mouth and for a bit aft of it.

ten minutes later
I am slowly getting there with removing all traces of the sharpie marks. The 80 grit belt is usually the one that takes the most time to get through. The other grits basically remove scratches and shine things up. And I won't be using woodworking sanding belts anymore. I can tell a big difference in using the metal sanding belt vice the woodworking ones. The biggest one is the grit lasts a lot longer with the metal sanding belts.

I thought they were clean
Look at the crud that is coming out of the corrugation slots. I had scraped them all with a sheet rock knife too and I thought they were cleaned out.

last run with the 80 grit
It took me about 30 minutes to remove all the sharpie marks with the 80 grit belt. I'm going to do it one more time and check that the sharpie marks disappear uniformly. They did and I moved on to 120 grit.

more crud coming out
I did this to remove what looked like a white paint drop and I got this. There is some grunge there but there is also rust dust too. It took me only 5 minutes or so to sand out all the slots .

this sucks
I didn't like wearing this but I didn't want to breathe in all the crappola I was sanding neither. It reminds of wearing an EAB from the Navy (emergency air breathing mask). It was called sucking rubber then and I once had to wear one for 3 hours. I took a lot of breaks doing the sanding but I made sure to wear it while sanding.

80 grit done, on to 120
nice shine off of the 120
Going up the grits after 80 goes pretty quick. I could have quit here but I went all the way to 600.

done up to 400
I don't bother buying any belts above 400. I hand sanded the plane with 600 grit with a sanding block.

streaks at the top of the cheek
I had to sand that area by hand with 400 grit in a sanding block. I don't know why the belt wasn't doing it but it only took a few minutes to shine it by hand sanding.

ready for paint
Frog seat scraped and then lightly sanded smooth.

the only tricky spots to paint
If I get any black paint on the frog seats, I'll scrape it off. I have taped the seats off but it isn't necessary. It is very easy to scrape any errant paint on them off. I'll let this first coat set up and cure for a couple of days. Then I'll put on the final and second coat.

30" piano hinge
Lowes didn't have any brass piano hinges so I had to settle for silver. FYI - hack sawing a 30" piano hinge down to 18" sucks.  I have 3 screws in each leaf so I can check the fit. This is one part of installing hinges that gives me the heebie jeebies. Installing hinges is getting better but the feeling isn't.

I marked and planed the hinge recess with the 140 skew block plane. I am really liking this plane for doing rabbets. It is a sweet tool to use.

I'm happy with this
The ends are flush and I'm off about a 32nd on the front. I can plane this flush once the box is done.

this sucks
All the screws are in and the box is hinge bound.

the hinge rabbet is too deep
I set the marking gauge to the middle of the hinge pin and I left the line when I planed the rabbet. having all the screws must have pulled the hinge leaf down tighter into the rabbet. I'll have to add wood now to make up for it.

shaving from making the panel grooves
I used this under the hinge to shim it up. I would rather use wood than paper here because this will be visible after the fix.

no longer hinge bound
It took two tries before I had joy in Mudville. The first time I only put shims under one leaf and some of the problem went away but not all. I had to shim under both leaves to order to eliminate the problem.  I glued the shims in the rabbets with the rapid fuse glue and I aligned them with the outside edge of the box.

trying to get some inspiration
It's not working. I kind of got an idea for the big squares, but with the two combination squares I was still in the dark here.

hiding my lines.
The spacers on both of the big squares will hide 90% of these lines.

rounded the ends
I think this will look better than having the end square cut.

holder for the combination square
The idea for this is to put a turn button at the top that will close on the top of the blade holding it in place.

the parts of the holder
change #2
I had gotten an email about rare earth magnets and I just happened to be thinking of them. This is part one of a two part door set up. Instead of using turn buttons, I can use magnets to hold the squares in place.

bonus - it isn't as thick as the spacer
this is magnetic too
I didn't think this would be magnetic. I thought it was stainless steel and not magnetic.

this may change now
Since I'm switching to magnets, I don't need some parts of this holder. After the glue has set I'll look it over and see if I can use some of it. Maybe I can adapt this somehow to use with the magnets?

holders glued in with hide glue
I'm pretty certain that I will go with this layout but if I want to change it down the road I can.

wasn't what I was looking for
I found my stash of magnets. I was looking for some box latches but this was nice to find.

got lucky twice today
Found the box latches I was looking for and it was a bust. Neither one of them will fit on the box.  They are too tall for the box. I'm pretty sure that these are big size and the next one down might fit. I'll have to spend some time on the Lee Valley's site.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who invented the combination square?
answer - Laroy S Starrett did in 1877

a few things almost done......

Sun, 11/19/2017 - 2:51am
It's been a while since I've had so many irons in the fire. I took all seven of them as far as I could today but only one was completed. One is waiting on parts, others I'm waiting on something to dry/cure, and the last one I have to think about. I'll be busy for a while.

filler pieces sawn out and fitted
This was the easy part. The hard part is going to be figuring out a way to secure it. I want it to be painless, easy, and tool less.

looks good
This is way to proud of the square body. My initial thoughts are proving to be OTL (out to lunch). Time to try something else.

left over from making the spacers for the squares
It had a rough sawn face that was also tapered side to side. I took a few minutes to even it out with the 4 1/2.

better but still stymied on how to secure it
out of the clamps
This is the only corner that looks like crap. The lower third of this is off.

still square
layout for the splines
From the left to the center - the first line is the top of the 6mm panel. The second line is where the spline will go and the center double line is where I will saw the box in two. I tried to place the spline equidistant from the panel and top of half of the box.  The spline will be all that holds the top together along with the miter. The right is the same as the left.

whacked a quick spline jig
I had one of these but it was too small for box. This one is twice that size and could have been bigger. I went with this because this was the size of the scraps I had.

spline slots sawn
I made these as deep as I could without having them show on the inside.

one frog hair wider than an 8th
found some walnut to use for the splines
Both pieces were too tight for the slots so I had to plane them to fit. I used the shooting boards to hold the stock while I planed it. It took 3 before I found one that worked. The stop at the back was too high on the first two and I couldn't plane the walnut.

I only needed 8 and I got 14 total from two pieces
splines all glued in
I set this aside by the furnace for a few hours and started on another project.

I can open up the crack easily - saw handle from latest buy
It goes all the back
glued up with Old Brown Glue
I now understand why the saw is loose in this area. I tried to glue this up without the saw plate but I got some OBG in the slot for the saw plate. I didn't want to glue that shut so I put the saw plate in. Having it in place made it easier to clamp the break. This will be camping out by the furnace until tomorrow.

working on Miles's saws
The plan is to clean the saw plates on both saws, strip the finish off of the handles, and put on a couple coats of shellac. I cleaned the saw plates with degreaser and 320 grit sandpaper. After this I rinsed it off with water and blew it dry with the hair dryer. I followed this up by using 400 and 600 grit paper on the plates to shine them up a bit. I spritzed them with degreaser to clean them one last time.

cleaned and shined up
final step
Wiped the saw plate with oil all over. Saw plates are done and just need the handles to be 100%.

repeated for the second saw
second saw handle
Completely stripped off the original finish. I thought I had taken a before pic but I didn't. I scraped the finish off with that small scraper in front of the handle. I followed that up with 120 and 220 sandpaper. After 4-6 coats of shellac it will be done.

rip saw handle with 2 coats of shellac

3 hours later I sawed off the proud on the splines
flushed the splines
the last two to be done
Before I flushed these two, I transferred my lines onto the side I already had done.

sawing it apart on the saw
I have an LED light above the tablesaw but I can't see where the saw blade is with my pencil lines on the box. A portable, hand held, self generating, photon emission device helped here.

it's still together
I did this on purpose. I set the height of the saw blade to be just under the thickness of the stock. This way a thin web of wood remains and it keeps the kerf from being pinched in. It especially helps when sawing the last cut because you don't have to put spacers in the previous kerfs.

I used a saw to break the thin web of wood holding it together.

it is safer doing it this way
On thinner stock I would use a sheetrock knife to cut the web.

the web
I cleaned this up with a sheetrock knife first to remove most of it and flushed it with a block plane.

two sides are off
The left side is a 16th strong over the right side.

a few round trips later
Knocked off most of it on the tablesaw. The blockplane made it sweet all over.

cleaning up the corners
I didn't get as much glue on the inside as I thought I would. What I did get was cleaned up and removed with a chisel.

this piano hinge is too small
With the hinge in place on the stock, the screw holes re too close to the edge. I can't use this and I'll have to make a road trip to Lowes.

back up hinges in case I don't get a piano hinge
sawing out a base for the japanese square
still zero ideas on how to secure it
general layout
The only thing carved in stone on this so far is the 12 and 15 inch squares. One will be on the left side and the other on the right. Everything else is subject to change.

trying a tip from Walter
I would not never have thought up this tip Walter left me as a comment. He said to use epoxy to build up a bit on the inside of the top. I was going to try and use veneer to make up for the looseness in the lid. I put some epoxy on one side of the inside of the lid and put it by the furnace. It'll keep the saw company until tomorrow.

working on Miles's #6 is batting next
painted the frog seat
scrapes off easily
When it comes time to do this I will roll a hook on this. Having that will scrape this off lickety split. It will work without it but it is much quicker and cleaner with a hook.

the top of the side wall got painted too
I can scrape it
or use sandpaper (this is 220)
I prefer to scrape here. The scraper removes the paint and shines the edge in one step. It takes time and muscle to do the same with sandpaper.

5 swipes
I think it is high at the toe and the heel but I'm not sure. The corrugations hide a lot of the scratches. I'll have to mark up the sole with a sharpie before I start this so I can get an idea of where I stand with it.

one is nice to have and the other is a must
The vacuum is nice and the dust mask is a must have to use when sanding metal planes.

see the black stripe
That is the metal dust, grease, and grunge from sanding the plane. This gets airborne and fills your snot locker. You will be picking and blowing this stuff out for a week. Not to mention that this will also get into your lungs. Did I say that it stinks and once it gets into the nose, you get to have a whiff of it 24/7.

This was my saturday in the shop. Worked on a lot of different things but nothing to show for my efforts to say ah about. Maybe I'll get to do that tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who made their debut in detective comics #27 in 1939?
answer - the caped crusader called Batman

till box glued up........

Sat, 11/18/2017 - 12:44am
The goal tonight was to get the square till box glued up and I got that done. Before I did that I went through one more dry clamp run. I didn't have or see any problems with that so did the glue up. I had time left over  so I did some preparatory work on the holders for the squares. I didn't get them all done but I made a dent in it. That is all subject to change as what I am thinking might be different in the real world.

for the people from Missouri
6mm thickness is just shy of a 64th from being a 1/4". 6mm plywood will be loose in a 1/4" groove.

metric reading
I am not sure if the 6mm plywood is nominal or not. Measuring the thickness of this read from a low of 5.95mm to this reading of 5.98. I did it at several points along all four edges and got nothing lower then 5.94 nor higher than 5.98.

I'm not liking this corner
On the outside it looks ok. I can close it with hand pressure but I have this gap on the inside. The other 3 are tight and I want this one to match.

maybe this is the problem
The end of the plywood is a frog hair or two past the end of groove where it ends on the miter face. This is where the edge of the plywood should be. I trimmed a 32nd off and checked it with my new 12" square. It was off on one corner - square from one long side and out of square from the opposite long corner. Planed it square and checked the other panel to make sure it was square and it was.

dry fitted
All the miters are closed up and I'm checking it for square.

diagonals are the same so it's square
I double checked it with my new 12" square and it confirmed the reading of the sticks.

found a piano hinge
In all of the years I've been woodworking, I have never used a piano hinge. I like the thought of using one on this box because it will open like a book to reveal the two sides with squares. A piano hinge would distribute that stress better then a pair of butt hinges would. Food for thought but I may buy another one with a wider leaf. This one is only a 1/2".

using hide glue and sized the miters first
while the glue sets some
This was $79 and it was just sharpened. I thought it would be a good dovetail saw Miles.

it's a Spears & Jackson which I think was good saw maker
made some test tails
The saw tracks good and didn't wander or feel like it wanted to. No problems sawing these tail cuts. The only beef I have with it is the set on the teeth leaves a wide kerf for doing dovetails.

more test cuts on the opposite end - there were dovetails here too
it's loose here
Just noticed a crack in the handle at the top. I tightened the nuts and they are solid but there is a bit of looseness still evident at the area by my fingertip. I can feel it while sawing and it has to be found and eliminated.

see the line under the spine
The plate on this is canted now but when I got it the plate was parallel to the spine. There was a tapered line underneath the spine too but most of it is gone now.

how I got the canted blade back.
I whacked the spine on the workbench at the toe and the heel. I didn't go nutso or Cro Magnon on it, 3 or 4 sharp raps seated the plate again where it was originally.

handle still has square holes for the nuts

the saw nuts and bolts are in good shape
The threads are still crisp looking and not deformed. The shoulders are still square and the slots in the bolts aren't chewed up. I don't think that these have been taken off much in it's lifetime.

left side of the plate
What did the old masters use to make the holes for the saw nuts? I tried drilling a saw plate once and I broke two drill bits trying to do it.

right side has some rust
I left this broke down and I'll try and clean it up this weekend. I will also investigate that crack and see if I can glue it and tighten up top between the spine and the handle.

successful glue up
I glued up the box with hide glue. I also glued the panels in all four of the grooves. After this has set up by the furnace I'll put splines in it on either side of where I'll saw it apart.

square spacers
If I was hanging these squares vertically in a cabinet I would be skipping this step. These squares will be laying flat in a box. Without a space under the blade it could bow along it's length. The spacer is as thick as the space between the handle and the blade.

had enough scraps for all the squares except one
I'll french fit this one
I got one piece done and I called it quits here and shut the lights out. My wife came home and decided we wanted to go out to eat.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first US President born in the 20th century?
answer - John F Kennedy

rush hour traffic........

Fri, 11/17/2017 - 1:27am
My wife has been away all week keeping daughter #2 company in NC. She came back home tonight and I had to pick her up. It must be love because I was looking at driving up and down Post Road during rush hour. I would rather dribble a basketball in a mine field or drive through a neighboring state to avoid traffic. But I had no choice tonight so I bit the bullet and did it. I did all my swearing and hollering at the morons going to the airport but not on the way back. She objects to me pointing out all the faults of other drivers.

It made for a short night in the shop tonight but I was able to decompress. It seems that there are a lot of vets going on to the final resting place lately.  I like knowing that what I do helps my fellow vets but I don't like reading the obits on them.

one day later
 Nothing groaned, crept, said ah, or otherwise moved when I took the clamps off.

time to see if the lid fits
it doesn't
This is the only spot where I could slip the lid over the bottom. It is very snug and just the corner of it is caught.

cleaned the inside
The glue and epoxy on the inside has nothing to do with this fitting. But it will once I plane the bottom to fit the lid and I can finally seat it.

just need to remove a sliver of air on this side
same on this side
planed most of the proud off and finished by sanding it
evened the top of the banding with the bullnose plane
planing at the top only
stopped once the pencil lines were gone
it's loose
I should have checked it after I planed one side. Instead I planed both sides first and then checked the fit. It fits both ways loose and it won't stay on by itself. There isn't any way I can get a friction fit now.

used a sanding stick to round over the edges
The oak was very sharp and holding the lid hurt a bit. I planed a small round over on the edges and smoothed them out with the the sanding stick.

might have to go sans the lid
I like this but I'll try to think of some way of securing the lid. I am tossing around a belt and buckle idea right now.

short sides done
Faces cleaned, smoothed, and shot to length. Repeated on the long ones.

dry fit looks good - one more tap closed this corner
All the miters look good. They are all closed up and fairly gap free. I'm sure once I have the clamps on I'll be gap free.

sample corner
I used bar clamps on the first run and I wasn't happy with how the miters looked.With the bessey's larger clamp face, it spans the width of the sides and applies equal  pressure across it. I got 100% coverage on the corners by going under and over with the besseys.

sample face
All the top and bottom faces are all flush. My panels were sawn to the right dimensions and this is ready for glue up. I'll do that tomorrow because I have to go to the airport and hurry up and wait for my wife's flight which as been delayed twice already. Looking for a bright side to this, I didn't have to drive in the worse of the rush hour traffic.

I didn't want to chance gluing this up tonight
It would be my luck to try and do this and run into a major hiccup. Tomorrow I'll have all the time I need to do it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What do you have if someone gives you a clew?
answer - a ball of yarn or string

new 12" square.....

Thu, 11/16/2017 - 1:32am
When I saw an old 12" square being offered up on the Hyperkitten site I bought it. No hesitating, no quibbling, no looking at other tools. I have grown rather fond of the 15 and 12 inch squares I got for Miles. I find myself wanting to use them a lot more than the ones I have in my drawer. It will be easier to resist now that I have one for me. I'll keep an eye out for a 15" one. I went back to Timeless tools & treasures to buy the 15" one there but someone else had already bought it.

mahogany, brass, and steel
What's not to like about these old squares. I'm guessing on the age of this but I would say it is at least a 100 years old. I don't ever remember seeing a square like this when I first started out in woodworking in the early 1970's. And it isn't something I recall seeing a lot of in the past 2-3 years I've been actively buying tools.

the inside is 12"
If you buy a square today that is 12", that 12" will be on the outside and not the inside. My 12" Woodpecker square, which is damn good square, is only 10 1/2" on the inside.

outside is 14 inches!
2 3/4" wide blade
This blade is a 64th less than a 16th of inch thick. The blade is solid and doesn't wobble or weeble a frog hair in any direction. This square has a big presence and a heft that is unmistakable. And it feels damn good in my hands. Maybe this is what is tripping my trigger about these.

one more coat to go
I didn't get another coat on this morning before I went to work which is ok. I looked at this tonight and I decided to steel wool it again to even it out some more. One coat tonight and the last one tomorrow night.

knocked it on while I was thinking of it
Sandpaper glued to scraps of wood is a wonderful thing to have in the shop. I got this tip from the Plane Collector on You tube. I used to sand the lateral adjust with my fingers but it is so much better doing it with a sandpaper stick.

I can see a faint 'STANLEY' on the lever
flushing what I glued on yesterday
squaring lines (I had to try it out)
planed an angle on this end
I had to plane the top down to match up to the squaring I had to do on this end.

using two glues for the big pieces of the lid banding
epoxy at the ends and yellow glue in the middle
The epoxy is a better choice for the end grain to long grain at the ends. The yellow glue will work well in the middle as it will be long grain to long grain.

I may have to plane this
I had to plane the top a bit more than I wanted to and it may not slip over the bottom. I can plane the portion of the bottom where the lid banding will be to get a snug fit.

epoxy laid down
I extended the epoxy a little bit onto the pine long grain of the top. I want the joint to be tight on the ends. So I'm giving the epoxy a bite on some solid long grain wood.

I'll set this by furnace overnight
I normally don't clamp joints glued with epoxy. I clamped the end lightly to keep it closed while it sets up. I am hoping that there will be much joy in Mudville come tomorrow.

my plywood came in
It's 6mm like I thought it was and it is also labeled as 1/4". 6mm is not the same thickness as 1/4" so don't fall for it. I find this crap incredibly annoying because you have to measure it to find out which it is.

I bought two sheets of it
I only needed one sheet but the S/H on two was the same as one sheet so I'll have an extra which won't go to waste. I hate paying more for S/H than what I am actually buying.

time to check the fit
it fits
The plywood has a slight cup to it but I was able to tap it with the mallet and get the side piece to fit. It is a snug fit and a good match with the 6mm iron I used to make the groove. Tomorrow I'll clean up the miters, saw out the panels and glue it up. Maybe.

Josh said this was square
inside and outside lines come together
These lines are telling me that the heel of the inside and outside is off. This square, ain't square.

now it's square
I ran a lot of lines to check this out and all of them are parallel now which means it is square on the inside and outside.

the culprit
There was a chip on this edge that was cocking the square causing the bad reading. Cleaned up the edge and got nice parallel lines. Now I have to find a place to keep this handy by the workbench.

accidental woodworker

What is bilharzia?
It is a disease caused by the parasitic schistosome worm which lives in fresh water

another day added.........

Wed, 11/15/2017 - 1:26am
One of the projects I'm finishing up is the box for Miles's nail sets. It is taking longer than I want but it isn't a project from hell. The way I am doing I have to wait and allow the adhesive of choice to set before I can proceed with the next hurry up and wait for the adhesive to dry. It is going to be at least one more day before it is done.

frog is almost done
I almost knocked this on the deck. I had forgotten I had it hanging out on the belt sander. When I picked up the sander to move it, I saw the frog at the last moment. I put the yoke back and I had to look at another plane to do it. I was putting it in backwards again. I used the sandpaper stick to clean the face of the frog of paint. All that is left to do on this is to put a shine on the lateral adjust lever.

I have gloves
I should have put the gloves on but I didn't. I have already cleaned my fingers with orange cleaner but I'll have to do better. All this black will end up on my nail box. I cleaned my hands with a blue scrubbie pad and Dawn dish washing detergent.

this doesn't have to be perfect
The banding I'm going to apply will hide this joint and it won't be seen. What I checked for was to make sure it was laying atop the bottom level all the way around. Gaps are ok as long as it sits the same both ways.

slight detour
I bumped the block plane storage shelf and moved it. I put some hide glue on the bottom of this and I'll try this first. If I have to, I can add a screw later.

the weight of the planes should apply sufficient pressure for this to set up
back to the nail set box
I marked the width of the piece I need with a pencil line. I did a pencil instead of a knife line so I would have a little extra to trim after the glue has set.

sawed at an angle
I am on the left side of the pencil line and sawing at an angle onto the waste side.

I can feel it sticking proud by a frog hair on both sides
cooking by the furnace
The temp is supposed to dip into the 20's over night (-4C) so this is the best spot for it in the shop.

adding a couple of more
These don't have to cook but should be kept with the top.  The square is set to the top of the banding and I have been know to use earmarked stock for other things before.  So the banding will be here too out of sight of my workbench.

plowed all my grooves
I sawed all the stock to the same width and then plowed all my grooves. I am checking them to ensure that they are done right. Done to depth and the walls square end to end.

used it out of the box
I didn't touch this up in any way before I plowed all the grooves. This is the way an iron should come from the maker. Ready to use out of the box. Now that I've used it, I will touch it up on the 8K stone and run it over my strop.

sawing my last miter
double checking
Checking to make sure the squares will fit. I was surprised by how well the box fits off the saw. I didn't make any attempt to try and saw the miters to the same length. I sawed each one on the corner and I doubt that I will ever get this lucky again.

90° corner 
I am liking this miter box and how well it does miters. They have rough faces but it doesn't stop it from making a 90° angle.

donkey ear jig
I was planning on using this to not only clean up and smooth the miter faces but to shoot them to length. It looks like all I'll have to do is clean and smooth the faces.

1950's vintage 1/4" plywood (it is a true 1/4" thick)
I'm glad I checked this. I thought 6mm plywood was a hair wider then a 1/4". I was wrong and it is a hair short of a 1/4".

got two coats on this today
I put one on before I left for work and the second one tonight. I'll try and repeat these dance steps tomorrow too. Once I have two more on, I'll wax this and call it ready to fill with candy.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the russian village of Verkhoyansk noted for?
answer - for having the widest temperature swing on earth,  -68°C/-90°F in the winter to 37°C/99°F in the summer


Tue, 11/14/2017 - 1:01am
English translation - finished. The project from hell is done or what I should say is that I am done working on it for now. I may be revisiting this in the future. As for 'fini', it is about the only french I remember. I took it for a few years in high school and I know that word and how to ask how are you. I wanted to learn italain and got put in a french class. I think I can still count up to 49 if I concentrate.

I'll have to remember about the pullout
I didn't do anything to secure the block plane holder to the cubby. If I have to do something I'll secure it with hide glue. For now the weight of it seems to be holding it in place.

epoxy has set up
Turns out that it was a good idea to epoxy the sides as one piece. Certainly made it very easy to flush the sides top to bottom. I only had to do one side as I epoxied this with one side flush.

sawed it apart
Had a difficult time sawing this apart. I should have used the zona saw to do this thin wood.

flushing the proud on the ends
I came in from both sides upwards and then I went across the long way. It worked and I didn't get any blowouts.

Of course it was the last stroke that popped this off. I was leery of this one because I could see a gap on one end. It popped off when I went across the long way. I sanded the two, applied more epoxy, and taped it in place. I set it by the furnace to cure overnight. Looks like I will have to add another day to this.

I'll be able to do lid banding tomorrow
 I plan on wrapping this 360 so that the top will slide over the bottom. That means I will have a cross grain gluing sandwich on the sides. The pieces are thin and a 1 1/4" wide so I don't think that it will be a problem.

hammer is done
4 coats of shellac with the last one rubbed down with 4-0 steel wool. Fini. Stowed in his toolbox.

continuous grain flow
This is the corner where the opposite ends came together. Still got a pretty good match.

the opposite corner
I like this grain flow around the box. This is not my first attempt at this but it is my first time getting it right.

last corner
You can see and follow the grain around the box. This was something that I thought would be difficult to pick out. To my eye, the grain flowing around the corners is readily apparent. I will try this on my future boxes.

This has four coats of shellac and I will put on about 3-5 more before I wax it and call it done. I'll fill this with candy and give it as a xmas present. I will have to make one more for xmas and fill with a different candy.

layout for the square till box
I have about a 1/4" of extra meat on the width. I'll lose that tomorrow.

ready for grooving almost
I planed one edge square to a reference face. I cleaned up that face with a couple of swipes with the 4 1/2. I'll let these sticker again tonight and tomorrow I'll plow the 6mm grooves. I normally wouldn't do this without having the plywood but I'm taking a shot on it being ok. The 3/8" plywood I got from woodcraft is 9mm if I remember right. So I'm counting on the 1/4" being 6mm.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is an Aulos?
answer - an ancient Greek single or double reed wind instrument usually played in pairs

the project from hell....

Mon, 11/13/2017 - 1:08am
For something I anticipated taking maybe a couple of days to do and most of that time waiting on glue to dry, this project still isn't done. I thought things were coming together and I would be wrapping this one up and thinking of what was next. Instead of that, today was one hiccup after another to be dealt with. I was able to deal with them but I sure wish this project was done. But it ain't, but it is awfully close now. And I don't see any major hiccups on the horizon blocking me from the winner's tape.

first hiccup
The holder for the 073 is hitting one of the stops. It clears the one on the right but I can't place it so it'll pass between the two of them.

removed a stop
The 073 holder is clear now and I can open and shut the shelf. I don't like the one stop due to the weight of the tools on this. One screw is all that holds the stops in place and if I get ham fisted and slam this open, the weight could pull that stop out of the side. I would not be a happy camper then nor would I have a smiley face on. I went back to both stops and trimmed the 073 holder to fit inbetween them.

nail set box
The epoxy on the sides had set up after spending the night beside the furnace. I trimmed the top and bottom pieces flush with the 102.

what's left to do
I need to epoxy the oak onto the sides and then the lid banding can be glued on with yellow glue. It'll be a least 2 more days before this will be done.

the epoxy comes first
I will epoxy the sides with one piece of oak. I put a scrap piece between the top and bottom to separate them. I'll use that gap to saw out the two parts.

double duty
Using the bench hook to keep things aligned while the epoxy sets up.

back to working the stops
I had to take a break from this and do something else. I got the 073 holder trimmed so it fits between the two stops. There isn't much room to spare, but it opens and closes without hitting them.

After I got this fixed I ran into two more hiccups with the 073 holder. The first was I initially screwed the holder too close to the edge plane holder. I had done that without the edge plane in the holder. Once the plane was in it I saw I was up too close to it with the 073.

So I moved the holder and I hit snag #3. The screws were sticking out of the bottom of the shelf and hitting the front brace. I could open and close it but I could feel the screws dragging on the front cross brace. I left the screws in place and filed the points off with a file.

hiccup #4
The iron adjuster knob is hitting the side here and  I need to make a relief for it.  But wait, the fun with this is just starting.

#5 - making a relief for the handle to clear the side
#6 - the pic says it all
I could open and close the drawer but the knob and the handle were dragging on the side. FYI - chiseling plywood sucks.

3 frog hairs of clearance
no knob or handle
I have a finger grab recess on both sides so I don't need anything else to pull the shelf out with.

took the easy way out
I put up with the noise and dust this spit out and flushed the 3 sides of the cubby.

Houston we are almost in double digit problem land
Problem #8 upcoming. Here I'm checking if the cubby will tilt down with the shelf out and it does. I secured the cubby to the workbench shelf with four screws. Two in each cross brace.

hiccup #8
I can't get the edge plane out with the shelf extended as far as it can open. Even if I cut it down to lower the height of it, I still wouldn't be able to get it out. No problems taking the 073 out or putting it back.

The final hiccup, #9, is I had to take out the stops. With them gone I can pull the drawer out far enough and get access to the edge plane.  The downside is there is nothing to stop the shelf and the tools on it from playing the bounce test with Mr Concrete Floor.  I tried to place the stops closer to the opening but it wasn't helpful at all. If I place the stops as far forward as I can I still don't have access to the edge plane. I will have to live with this as is and try to remember I can't pull it out all the way.

block plane storage idea
This is what I wanted to do yesterday but I had to do the battery dance steps instead. The idea is to put all the planes at an incline to make them easier to grab. Plus I think it looks better than having them horizontal.

road testing Miles's hammer
This is a 9 ounce hammer and mine is the one I use the most. I almost never use my 16 ounce hammer in the shop. This one has an ok balance and hammered these brads with no problems. I don't see Miles not having lots of fun nailing and gluing scraps together with it.

made dividers for the block planes
dry fit looks and felt good
After this is complete I will saw off some of the left side overhang. I want to pull the right side away from the leg as grabbing that blockplane was a bit tight.

last divider dado needed some help
I glued in a piece of veneer to tighten up the last dado.

dividers glued, clamped, and cooking
first coat of  shellac on Miles's hammer
I like the fact that this hammer was once mine and that I was able to fix it and pass it on to him.

plane stop for the violin plane
The radius on both pieces matches the toe on the plane.

I'll glue these two together

then I'll glue it here
This will put the heel of the plane at the top end of this inline with the other four.

the 103 is longer
I assumed that the 102 and the 103 were the same size but I was wrong.

my OCD kicked in here
I can't have the 103 sticking out farther than the other planes. I had to put a filler at the front of the dividers of the 102 and 103 to get them to line up with their bigger siblings on the right. I put a rabbet on the 103 filler.

laid out a rabbet and chiseled it out
doing a small one is just like doing a big one
The heel on the 103 was still sticking out a bit too far. So I chiseled a radius in the middle of the rabbet to match the toe radius of the 103.

the 103 toe is buried a bit
 I glued these in place and I'll flush them tomorrow. That will give me some time to think of a way to secure this to the cubby.

cleaned and squared up
I'll wait for this
The dividers are flush at the front where they are visible but they all aren't flush at the back. The back stop for the planes is only glued to the 1/2" plywood. I want to give this a day in the clamps to fully set up.

3 coats of shellac on the box
This will be dry tomorrow for sure. I'll steel wool it and wipe it off. It will go into Miles's toolbox then and I'll call it done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is nikhedonia?
answer - the pleasure from anticipating success or a victory (or finally finishing a project from hell)

it's a wee bit chilly.......

Sun, 11/12/2017 - 2:20am
Winter has finally arrived. The past few days have been cold with this morning being the coldest so far. It was a frosty 25°F (-3.8°C) at oh dark thirty this AM. No frost on the cars but on Tuesday, I noticed the first frost of the year then. A quick peek at the weather seer's web page says that the daytime temps next week will be in the high 40's to low 50's with the nighttime temps hovering around freezing (0°C). On bright side, it hasn't snowed yet.

Things were going so well in the shop today that something had to go wrong it seemed. I was motoring along and things were looking good until I went to get chinese for lunch. The battery in the truck went south when I tried to go home. So what could I do? I went back into the chinese place and ate my lunch. They have a couple of tables there but I have never seen anyone eating in there before.

FYI - batteries ain't cheap. The last battery I remember buying was a Sears diehard and I think I ponied up $50 for it. I was looking on line to see what the prices were and I almost had an involuntary bowel movement. Let's just say batteries don't sell in the $50 range anymore. Starting prices for my truck are $140 and go up from there. One thing I noticed was that no matter the price the warranty on them was still only 3 years.

Got my replacement battery ($173) swapped out without any problems. I think I was heading for a battery explosion with the old one. It had bulged out on all 4 sides with ends being the worse. The car parts store gave me back $18 when I gave them the old battery. Don't remember getting $$$$ from the last time.

this has cured
Last night the last thing I did in the shop was to size the ends of these two pieces of stock. These are the bases for the bullnose and tenon planes.

Amazon prime isn't two day
I assumed that anything I bought prime would come in two days.  I ordered these sanding belts on the 6th and they came on the 10th. I read the terms and it basically said Amazon will decide and ship when and what they feel like doing. I bought metal 4x36 sanding belts in grits from 80 up to 400. I hope these are an improvement over the woodworking ones I got from Harbor Freight.

bought a piece of crap
I turned down a Nicholson 4-in-one from HD for this. I was leery about buying anything Nicholson but that one was way better looking than this China made piece of total crappola.

kind of worked
I might be biased against this but I got the impression that it worked better pulling it back then pushing it forward. Didn't change my opinion of it nonetheless. I was going to put this in Miles's toolbox but I can't do that now. This will most likely end up in the shop shitcan.

this 4-in-one is mine
I'll be giving this to Miles instead. This is from my carpenters toolbox but I have never used it in the shop.

nail sets and a center punch for Miles's toolbox

I was hoping that I would get to this today

figured out my drawer stop problem and it starts with these two pieces of oak
drawer guides
These two will keep the shelf level and from tipping down. This was another headache I was trying to find a pill for. I will screw these to the sides.

screwed in place and the shelf is extended
There isn't the weight of all the tools on this but at this extension, the cubby is still laying down on the workbench. The stops for the shelf are in the batter's circle.

cheap plywood
I planed a bevel on the back and then sanded it roundish. This will help with it not hanging up and letting it ride over the back brace as it is pushed in.

first part of the drawer stop system
A strip of oak glued to the back of the shelf.

Miles's hammer almost done
I pulled off the stickers and scraped off the finish that was on it. I sanded it with 120 grit and after a couple of coats of shellac it will be done.

this side doesn't have the grain of the opposite side
needs to stowed better than this
I started to make something to stow these in while the drawer stop sets up for an hour or so.

what I came up with
The holes for the sets are 11/32nds and the holes in the top are 3/8". I thought that would make up for the waviness in my drilling of the holes for the sets. It didn't help.

1/2" pigsticker fixed it
I barely touched this
I was already down into the mortise with a 3/8" chisel and pushed against this end of the mortise with the backside of the chisel. I wasn't levering against, just pushing. I was down into the mortise almost to the bottom of it too. When I did that, this popped out.

fits now, both ways
glued it with rapid fuse
got to use my big chamfer bit
This one clogged too but not as fast or as bad as the smaller one.

ripped up some oak veneer
 Thicker piece will be used for the lid banding and the thinner one for the rest of the box.

I am applying the oak veneer to all of them thin sides
The top and bottom of the box is long grain and the sides are end grain. I want to hide that because I think it detracts from the rest of the box. While this glue was setting I went back to working on the plane cubby

part two of the shelf stop system
how it will work
The oak strip I glued to the back of the shelf will hit this and stop any further forward motion of the shelf.

a backer so I can saw off my individual stops
I decided to do the back strip this way to ensure accuracy. This is marked off of the shelf guides and I didn't have to measure it.

The stops are only screwed to the sides, no glue. I may have to repair them or change the shelf arrangement in the future.

mistake - replaced the 1" brass screws with 1 1/4" screws
all five the screws came through
The two screws at the front made it all the way into the front brace. Shelf couldn't go in or out. And yes I did check the screw against this and it looked to be shorter then thickness.

had to do it
I didn't want to glue this but I had no choice. I went back to the brass screws but they weren't too secure. Hide glue will make this reversible and the screws have enough bite to hold it until the glue sets.

it works
I have the shelf fully extended and the cubby is still in place.  I think once I get the two holders in place for the tenon and bullnose plane, this will tip up and on to the deck. This will definitely need to be secured to the workbench shelf.

front molding
This is mostly to hide the end grain of the shelf and the front brace. I will cover the vertical plywood edge too. This piece of wood will also give my a place to put a knob or a handle on it.

need a shallow rabbet - made it with the 140
didn't forget this time
Ran the marking gauge to clean up the back wall and deepen the knife line.

while the molding glue sets up
I filed the 12" square on the inside and the outside until both of them were square when checked against drawing parallel lines.

6 tries and I'm getting close
I kept my filing as light and for as short of a distance as I could. From the first reading I could tell that I had to file at the heel.

got it
The lines look to be parallel from the bottom to the top without any deviation. Since the eye can detect a difference as small as a thousandth of  an inch, and I don't see that, I'm calling this good. This was the inside of the square. The next batter is the outside.

the outside edge
The lines converge at the top which means the heel needs to knocked back some.

same here as the inside
I took a few filings and checked it. I tried to keep my filing strokes short and not be in a hurry.  Filing off too much off would make the square go in the opposite direction.

In spite of my care and going slow I did switch the error on the lines. After the 3rd filing, the lines were going away from each other outwards at the top. I had to file a bit at the toe before I got my two parallel lines. I didn't check or try to make the inside and outside of the blade parallel.

layout for the square till
I do not want these to be hanging out loosely in the toolbox and banging around against all the other tools in there. It won't be good for the tools or the squares. I only have one more square to get to call this complete and that is a 4" sliding square, preferably a Starrett. I will squeeze that in here somewhere, somehow.

pretty close to my lunchtime doodle
The lines on this are the ID as that is what I was concerned with getting. I also wanted the two halves of this to be the same size. I bought 2 sheets of 6mm plywood today and I'll have it next week sometime. That will be used for the panel in each half.

I am also making it out of 3/4" thick pine. I am going with 3/4" because I can't find a decent hinge for 1/2" stock that is worth more than a thimble full of belly button lint.

stock for the square till
I'll let this sticker for a few days and then I'll start the joinery on it. This is going to be a mitered box that I will glue up as box and then saw it in half. I'm mitering it because of the 6mm plywood panels I'm putting in it. The panels will strengthen the miters and they will make it easy to plow the grooves for the panels.

the next to last operation for today
I epoxied the ends and used yellow glue for the sides.

glued and cooking
the last thing I did before the lights were shut off
I sized the end grain on the nail set box and set it by the furnace. Tomorrow after this has cured I will epoxy on the oak veneer.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Where is the US Air Force Academy located?
answer - Colorado Springs, Colorado

made some progress.......

Sat, 11/11/2017 - 2:20am
The sliding shelf for the cubby still doesn't have a design. In spite of that I did make a lot of good progress on it. I'm sure that when it comes to crunch time I'll do something on the spur of the moment. The shelf itself isn't the holdup, it's how to stop it from being pulled out fully. I can't have it come out all the way but it still has to come out far enough for me to get to the tools at the back. Right now a small block of wood and a screw has me captive.

back clamped dry and square
Houston, we have a problem
The cross braces don't protrude the same distance on this side. Both braces are the same length and they are flush on the other side. They should therefore be sticking out on this side the same. I think the problem is this side is toeing inward. The braces are over sized in the length so I knew I would have to trim them to length.

checked the back for squareness
The back looked good and the rabbet joint appeared to be snug fitting so I marked the distance between the sides.

the front is off 3/8" from the back
now it's the same
This stick is a 1/4" longer then the back measurement and it is square cut on the right and angled on the left. This sets up a wedging action that is also self supporting. I set the opening at the front to match the back and marked the cross braces.

my notches need some help
Three of my notches were a frog hair too deep. I cut out some veneer and that was what I needed to flush the braces with the bottom of the sides.

cut out all the veneer with the new marking knife
The cross grain cuts took just a couple of extra swipes but they came out as clean as the long grain ones.

glued, nailed and screwed together
I didn't want to wait for the glue to set up. By screwing it I could keep on working on it.

good on the F/B and S/S
I'm up tight to the leg and I have about 3/8" on the left between the side and the #3 plane area. At the back where the #8 lives there is about 1 1/2" of extra space. No worries there with it falling on the deck.

cut and fitted the shelf gliders (?)
Not sure what to call these things. Their purpose is too support the shelf as I pull it out and push it in.

initial layout
I added the edge plane to the pull out shelf.

first change
This was dictated by the edge plane. When I first got this about 5 years ago I used it constantly to square edges. I was still struggling with planing square edges with hand planes then.  Now I can plane square edges so the use of the edge plane has fallen off dramatically. I use it now mostly for thin edges. So sticking it at the back of the shelf is a no brainer.

top shelf layout
everything fits
The dogs aren't going to be a problem. The front edge of the cubby is behind them. Except for when one is hanging down and I slam my hand into it reaching for a block plane.

a slight PITA
I can reach and grab this from the front but I have to bend over to do it. A better way to do it is to grab it from the back of the bench.

screwed the top onto the sides
This won't be staying here. I will remove it when it comes time to screw the braces to the workbench shelf. It'll be a lot easier doing it sans the top shelf then using a ratchet screwdriver in a dark, cramped cubby. Once the braces are secured I'll screw the top back on.

have some flushing to do
The piece of plywood I used for the top only had one straight edge and I used that at the front. I'll plane the 3 hand sawn, uneven edges flush after I'm done with this.

making a holder for the edge plane
This is a necessity I think because it'll be on a sliding shelf. Wouldn't do to have this flopping around as it goes in/out.

drilled out most of the waste
I cleaned this side pocket with the hand router.

the top I evened out with the chisel

hadn't thought this far ahead
Made it with an 1/8" to spare.

I have extra
I have about 3/4" that I can saw off and drop the height. I will leave it as is for now and see if it presents any problems.

I still have  it
This surprises me a lot that I have not lost this. I have had this for almost 5 years. It is the allen wrench for the set screws on the iron.

exploded view of the bullnose holder
I am thinking of putting this together with epoxy on the ends and yellow glue on the sides. That will mean adding another day(s) for this to cure out.

same holder design for the 073
I used oak for all the parts on the both of these holders. I have an idea for the block plane storage that I'll work on this weekend.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many US Presidents had no children of their own?
answer - five Washington, Polk, Harding, Buchanan, and Jackson

Howard adjusters.......

Fri, 11/10/2017 - 1:20am
Last week I ordered a Howard adjuster for the LN 60 1/2 block plane and one for the LN 102 small block plane. The Howard adjusters make for a positive, silky smooth advance and retraction of the iron. I've had one on my LN big block plane for a few years and I have nothing but praise for it. Both of the them came in today. I just ordered them and they came to me from the other side of the world. I don't get some things this quick from states next door to me. I hadn't planned on getting them for several weeks.

It is not quite 11,000 miles (about 17,700 km)  from my house to where these are made in Australia. It took a week to get here and that includes clearing customs in two countries.

shiny brass - what could be better than this
up for grabs
I don't need these adjusters anymore. If anyone needs one, drop me an email with an address and I'll send it to you.

replacing the LN 102 adjuster knob
I use this small plane a lot. I am not sure that I'll be using the bigger LN more in it's place but we'll see. I'll have the both of them side by side once the cubby is done. I think the size of the job will dictate which one gets the love.

I didn't get one for the LN 103 which is the standard angle small block plane. I don't use it much and it has gotten even less use since I bought the LN 102.

it is hard to see the split on the right

hack saw
The instructions say to remove the proud with a hacksaw. Makes sense as the teeth of this aren't effected that much by the hammer head. A wood saw would have scratched the head and possibly damaged the teeth. The hacksaw went through this, slowly, but without any headaches.

not happy with the gaps

metal wedges are next
The instructions state that the metal wedges be installed perpendicular to the wooden wedge. The drawing shows them at a 45°. I think that is because the appear to be too big to be installed at a 90°.

metal wedges installed
I offset the wedges intentionally because I wanted to try to close up some of the gaps. I did ok but there is still one small gap at the lower right of the eye. I used 100 grit sandpaper to clean up the eye and then sanded the rest of the head to shine it up a bit.

sealing the top of the eye with some lacquer
The instructions say to do this to seal the top of the eye. I wouldn't have done it if I hadn't read it in the instructions.

can you hand plane rabbets in plywood?
 I'm about to find out and I have 6 different planes I can pick and chose to do them with.

picked the 140
The iron is sharp and it is sailing through this ply with the grain going in the short direction. The planing slowed down some when the ply grain direction changed but the plane was still making shavings.

pretty good for plywood
The outside shoulder isn't clean down into the 90°. I didn't use the nicker on the plane and I forgot to use the marking gauge to cut the fibers as I planed. I cleaned this up with a chisel.

rabbet #2
Hit a snag on this one. The 140 didn't like this knot and was riding up and over it. I tried pressing down on it more in this area without any luck. It was still skimming right over the knot.

this didn't skim over it.
It skipped and skimmed on the first two stokes but after I set the iron a bit heavy it chewed up the knot and spit it out.

sometimes you get lucky
I had eyeballed the length of the back yesterday and tonight I fully expected to have to cut off some extra. I have about a 1/4" strong of clearance total on both sides of the cubby.

no problems sawing this
I did my saw cuts so that the inside of the side was facing away from me. This way the chipping and blowouts on the exit will be on the inside of the cubby.

you can chop plywood cleanly
I chopped the pockets at the back just like it was solid wood. I sawed off the front notch and squared and cleaned it up with a chisel.

left notch is snug and this one is loose
This isn't that important although I was shooting to get both of them snug. These will be glued and screwed in place. I will then just screw these to the plywood shelf on the workbench holding the cubby in place.

I will be sawing excess off the cross braces
I will clamp the back in place dry and square it . I can then flush one end of one brace to a side and mark the length on the other one. Still haven't come up with a sliding shelf design I like. It is proving to be a wee bit harder than I anticipated it being. Part of the headache with it is figuring out the stop and putting the shelf in the cubby after it has been screwed to the plywood shelf on the workbench. Maybe inspiration will hit me tomorrow before I get home from work.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was the first railroad in the United States?
answer - the Baltimore and Ohio was the first railroad to transport freight and passengers in 1827

new hammer handle.......

Thu, 11/09/2017 - 2:01am
My order from the Hammer source was waiting for me when I got home. I tried replacing the handle and doing it went smoothly. The results weren't too bad considering it was my first ever attempt. I had few other toys come in too and I had to play with them. So that ate up my time to make my plane storage cubby. No biggie as I am not on any deadlines here.

disappointed here
I thought I had ordered the Thorex 712 like mine (on the right). Instead I got this one made by Vaughan from England. It is similar but it isn't the same. The size of the heads and the plastic faces appear to be the same. I will strip the stickers off the handle along with the finish and put on a couple of coats of shellac. That is what I did to my hammer.

comes with the wedge slot already done
it fits
I read a bunch of hammer replacement posts and I was looking forward to doing some shaving and fitting. The handle is a snug fit in the bottom of the eye.

used Miles's new hammer to fix the other one
a bit of slop at the top of the eye
All the things I read on this said to shave and fit the handle until it filled the eye. Even with the wedge installed I think that there is going to be some daylight between the walls and the handle.

wedge was too wide for the eye
I scored the wedge with the sheetrock knife and snapped it off. I trimmed it to fit with a block plane. I just happened to have a few them handy.

instructions don't mention glue
They say to put linseed oil on it before you fully seat it. I don't have any linseed oil so I'm skipping that. I'll make up for that by using hide glue on the wedge.

two new metal wedges
I'll put these in tomorrow after the wedge has set up.

blurry pic is hiding the boo boo
I had to tap it one more time and I got my reward. It split on the right side.

I glued the split and set it aside to dry
new toy for me
I'm still on a journey to find my marking knife and I'm going to try this one.

not a plug for them, it's where I bought it
why I bought it
I don't want anther spear point knife. I am getting used to a single bevel knife but I notice one hard point with them.  All the marking is concentrated right at the point. When I mark a knife line I do so with all the stress at the point and the other 99% of the knife's bevel is not used.

This knife has a curved bevel and a point. With this one I can start my knifing with the point and rock it to use the bevel to complete the line. With this one I should get more use out of the bevel then just the area by the point. At least that is what I am thinking I can do.

I stropped the bevel and the back and tried it out. Rocking the bevel worked and I didn't have any problems transferring a line 360 on piece of scrap. It isn't as sharp as my Japanese marking knife but this isn't or hasn't been sharpened by me yet.

The instructions for sharpening it say to put a piece of sandpaper on a T-shirt and drag the bevel on it by pulling it straight back. The T-shirt is soft enough to have some give and allow you to follow the round bevel on the marking knife. I'll give it a try when I sharpen it.

added a few more tools to Miles's toolbox
I have a pile of scrapers and taking these for Miles's toolbox didn't even put a dent in the pile. I would like to get a thinner, flexible rectangular scraper but even I don't have one. All of mine are thick and don't bend/flex too much.

I don't have too many more tools to cross off the list. I have some of them but I haven't rehabbed them yet. Once I do that, I'll cross them off. The list is slowly shrinking. The only biggies left are a dovetail saw and and a set of chisels.

parts for the bottom of the new plane cubby
The two cross pieces will be let into the bottom of the sides flush. The back will the held in place in a rabbet sealing up the back. With the top shelf on this space should stay relatively clean.

the back is the same width as the sides
After the cross braces are in, I'll cut two pieces of this to go inbetween them. The sliding shelf will ride in and out on them. And since it is plywood, I don't have to worry about expansion and contraction.  Maybe tomorrow I'll actually get some 'put it together' woodworking done on this.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Laika? (hint: it's a dog)
answer - Laika was the first living creature to orbit the earth

I stumbled upon it....

Wed, 11/08/2017 - 1:01am
Last night the newest book by Jim Tolpin and George Walker was waiting for me when I got home. From Truths to Tools awaited my perusal.  I was getting worried about it as the USPS has a habit of delivering my mail to other addresses. But there was joy in Mudville last night. There was a chapter devoted to the Libella which I was not expecting. I thought it would be mostly on sector related things but the book is packed with other ingenious gadgets the ancient people used. And what I like about it is that there isn't any math or number manipulations that have to be done.

The underlining principles that make the Libella work as a level I got right even though I didn't know it. The Libella does have to be made accurately because it relies on the principles of right triangles. When the plumb bob hangs down it forms a right triangle from the apex to the horizontal brace out to the legs. This is what I stumbled on and got right without realizing it.

I would post a pic of the book page but I am wuss when it come to things like that. I don't want to chance violating some copyright and getting sued. I've done it in the past naively but I won't do it anymore unless I have it carved in stone that I can.  My wife told me to snap a pic of a partial page and credit where it comes from. I will say that the Libella starts on page 123 and leave it at that.  The book is well worth the $25 admission price so you'll have to buy it to see for yourself.

thanx Steve
I am not a fishing guy and don't remember any fishing line looking like this that my brother used. It doesn't look or feel like the fishing line I have.  I'll use this for the plumbline stick.

kind hard to see
It is against this block that you need to see where and how the string hangs. I am going to try and mark this with a black sharpie and see how that shakes out.

$28 bargain
I could not pass this up for this price. I need a crosscut backsaw for Mile's kit and this will work.

round head saw nuts
I don't know diddly about dating saws but this is the first time I've seen round head nuts on any type of saw. The handle is clean and doesn't have any dings, chips, or blowouts anywhere on it. The handle feels dry so I'll have to get it refinished ASAP.

Grace saw nut screwdriver
The handle was a bit wiggly and loose so I tightened the screws. So far this screwdriver has fit in every single saw I have tried it in. And with this saw, it fits everyone I own.

Dead nuts straight
Not even the slightest deviation off of zero any where down the tooth line. All the teeth are even, none are missing,  and they are all the same height down the length. I definitely got a $28 bargain and I would like to get one again. I need to find a dovetail saw for Miles's toolbox.

kind of sharp
The teeth appear to be filed for crosscut and it sawed this pine scrap easily. Considering that it is pine, the cut is pretty good looking. The saw does feel like it could have a touch up filing done on it.

sailed through this 5/4 pine
nothing on the big button
There isn't any etch on the saw plate neither. Maybe that is why this was so cheap.

ever heard of Jackson saws Bob?
two carcass saws
Now I don't feel bad about keeping the bottom saw for me.  The one I just got feels as well balanced as the Disston saw on the bottom. I like the look of the handle on bottom one better than the one I just got though. I don't think Miles will mind because this one will be his.

just need a dovetail saw
 I've been looking for a dovetail saw for over a month and no luck so far. I saw two but both were priced over $300 each. I can buy a LN for less than half the price of one of them. I'll keep looking but I think I may end up buying an LN dovetail saw.

change 3, alteration 7C, upgrade 1.01, rev XV7.3
The biggest reason I wanted the cabinet to stow the planes in was to keep them clean and dust/dirt/debris free. Nixed that, KISSed it, and I am going down another road. The plan now is to make a 'U' shaped carcass with a slide out shelf on the bottom. These three planes on going to be on that shelf.

the top
The top will be screwed into the two sides creating the 'U' shape. The top will be fixed and won't be sliding out or in. I also have enough room to put my scrub plane on it. The top will still be getting dirty but this will all change once I make my new bench. That will have dust and dirt free storage for all my planes.

this has been cleaned up
 I have three holes in the bench for the hold fasts and it surprises how much crap falls down through them onto my planes. I don't think I glued down the plane division strips and I'm about to find out if I did. I will be removing the first four of them - L to R.

one empty slot has to go
The empty slot to the left was for a #4 that I gave to Miles. The slot on the right is for a #3 that will stay. I will remove the #4 slot and put the #3 in it's place.

dry fit looks good
I will nail this down later. I want to get a little further on with the new plane storage cubby before I commit to this. I may want/need to change it as I develop the 'U'.

the 'U' sides
Might not need to put that oak strip on the right side of the #3. I should be able to use this to keep it in place.

plenty of height
I will half lap or half mortise a cross piece at the back and front (not this wide or thick). I'll use them to keep the sides parallel and to attach the 'U' shape to the shelf.

the top will be screwed to the sides
I think that this is a simple design and it should work. I have the basic shape I want and the next step is figuring out the sliding shelf details. I want it to have a stop so it doesn't fall on the deck when I pull it out. I could be absent minded about it and drop it and my planes on the deck. I don't want to to be on the losing end of a bounce test with Mr Concrete Floor.

As I was leaving the shop I went by 4 big sized sheets of 1/2" plywood. I think that it would be adequate for the bottom sliding shelf and for the top one. I'll keep the 3/4" stuff for the sides. Using 1/2" stock will knock back the size somewhat. Maybe by tomorrow's shop time I will have thought up something to try.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
President Thomas Jefferson named his estate Monticello. What was his neighbor, President James Monroe, name for his estate?
answer - Highland

the next project is.......

Tue, 11/07/2017 - 1:03am
Been thinking about what the next project will be and I decided. I have 4 planes that I am rehabbing in various stages of done that I should be doing. I have my Record 53E vise that I should be cleaning up and getting it ready for the upcoming bench build. I am almost done paying Lowes off but I forgot about xmas being right around the corner. So it looks like the bench will have to wait until after the new year. The vise can wait too.  But I can start on the new project and that will keep me from playing in the streets.

Stanley 71 for Miles
I got this from Josh at Hyperkitten. I think this will be a good gauge for Miles. It has two independent moving arms that can hold two different settings. It can be used as a marking gauge or a mortise gauge.

Miles's Stanley 72
I thought that 71 I had the same features as a 72 except for being made of the same type of wood. They are basically the same gauge with one major  difference.

the 72 has a brass wear plates
The 72 has brass wear plates on the marking pins and on the fence. This is what I got confused with the 71. It is still a good gauge but if I see a 72 I'll buy it and swap it out with this one.

Miles gauge herd
This is as far as I'm going with this. He should be able to do everything with these 3. The top gauge is a Stanley 65.

the plumbline stick ready for string
I did good on drilling my line. I nailed it on the centerline on this face and the front edge. If I had missed either of them, I would have two options. Fill the hole and drill it again or drill a bigger hole in the errant one.

dull razor blade
It is dull but not so dull that it won't cut flesh. I used this to scrape the paint that spilled over onto the face here.

It is gone from the face and didn't effect the sides at all. Sandpaper wrapped around a stick will work too. But I think the razor blade scraper action leaves behind a cleaner surface.

back of the frog
Two coats of black and this is done. I can paint the entire frog and set it aside to dry on the frog seat. I'll scrape the face and the seat one last time when this coat is dry.

the next project
From the block plane on the left over to the leg on the right and backwards up to the #8 is the new project real estate. The plan is to make a small cabinet with two drawers to hold the 3 planes here plus some others.

about 9"
This restriction in the height isn't carved in stone. From the shelf to the underside of the bench is a little bit more than 12". I can inset the cabinet in so that the front face of it is behind the dog holes. Then the dog will only be in the way of opening or closing the top drawer.

a pattern board

This board is the size of the ID on the cabinet. I'm allowing an inch for the sides and I'll use it to find the optimum placement of the planes.

I got most of them to fit here, the 140 was left off
I would rather lay the 073 (at the back) on it's side along with the bullnose plane.  I can do that but I can't fit the edge plane on here in a way I like. Looking at this, I'm also not to happy about the 073 being at the back. I don't use it often but it may prove difficult to get out of the drawer. It is looking like I will have to pull it out entirely to have access to it.

cut out another pattern board from cardboard
I forgot to factor in the dimensions of the drawer. I am losing an inch for the sides and another inch for the sides of the drawer. I might not get the 073 to fit in a drawer now. I have 12" to play with and the 073 is 11" long. I'm already down to 10" for the drawer ID side to side, so I may not be able to fit it.

bottom drawer
top drawer
I have already thought of an alternative placement. The 140 in the lower right corner with the 102 and 60 1/2 to the left of it. The other planes, which I don't use as much, can be placed at the top. Maybe. All of this is as hard set as Jello.

roughly 8"
I'll have to allow for the bottom thickness of the cabinet and the drawers so this will definitely be over 9" high.

the plywood scraps are too small to use
my first choice
I want to use this 1/2 stock to make the new plane storage cabinet. I am having my doubts about it being strong enough for this. These planes will weigh a lot and I'll need a beefy drawer bottom to support them. I also will need to make a strong drawer to be able to move it in and out without having it falling apart.

Food for thought and I'll sleep on this for now and attack it tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who is Soyean Yi?
answer - she was the first Korean astronaut

record 077 and libella done.....

Mon, 11/06/2017 - 1:01am
Had a good day in the shop. I still didn't have any idea what was going to be on my plate at on dark thirty but I managed to put three things in the done column. I got the Record 077 rebate plane all nice and shiny. It has taken up residence in Miles toolbox now. I also got the two libellas I made checked out and working.  I quit the shop around 1400 so I could catch up on my reading.

I found a hammer handle at the Hammer Source. This is the same place I got my Thorex 712 hammer and I bought one of them to put in Mile's toolbox. I ordered a replacement hammer handle and I was happy to find out that each order comes with the necessary wedges - included in the price of the handle.

I had a bit of confusion with it in regards to the eye of the hammer. The instructions on the site say to note the shape of it and then get the long and short measurements of it. What I found confusing was they didn't say which end of the eye to take the measurement from.  I tried to find something on line about it but I didn't find anything helpful. I measured the bottom of the eye, which made sense to me to do. The top is tapered/flared and with the wedges installed it will push the handle outwards against the walls. I'll find out next week whether or not I pissed away $10.

yoke hanging out
There isn't any rush to get this painted. I'll let this hang here for another day to cure out. On monday I'll put the second coat on it and it will be done.

the frog hanging out
I have the frog hanging out on the frog seat. That is not painted and provides a good seat for it while dries.

mineral bath worked
I came down to the shop at 2100 on saturday night (after I did the DST clock dance steps) and checked this. I ran this face over some 220 grit and it removed all the oily crap right away.

rip back saw
I got this too late to put in yesterday's blog post. My wife told me there was a box on the front steps when she came home. It was a nice surprise as I wasn't expecting this until next week. This saw sang as it made these cuts. I also made 3 cross gain cuts in the top. Although it wasn't as easy as the rip cuts, it still made them relatively easy.  I am going to refinish the handle because it looks like absolute crappola as is. I want it to look as good as the job Bob did filing this.

I was right
I knew I had read about the 077 having a shim on the nose that could be removed to close the mouth. One other thing I saw while cleaning this was it isn't symmetrical. Put in on one way and it is flush on the two long sides. Flip it 180, and one side is proud and the other is inset a tad. Something I'll have to remember to tell Miles about.

I was working on cleaning the 077 here. That entailed a lot of finger aching sanding with 220 followed up with 320, 400, and finishing with 600. I wasn't no where near done with it when I stopped to go run some errands.

Home Depot acquisitions
worth going to HD and finding these
I stopped at HD first before I went to BJ's warehouse to buy my coffee K-cups for work. I had time to kill so I wandered around looking at whatever caught my eye and these did. They had pair of them to try on so I did. They fit and the package has five pairs for $5.98 so I put them in the basket.

I have 3 kinds of gloves
These gloves are ok for painting or applying a finish. They suck out loud for anything that involves a even a teeny bit of finger work. The tips rip and tear just by thinking about it. They are useless for doing plane rehabbing.

can't wait to try them out
I'm hoping that these will at least last for one plane rehabbing. If they do that, this will be well worth the price of admission.

mason's line and degreaser
Simple Green doesn't sell a cleaner that has 'degreaser' on the label like this one. I checked all 3 different bottles for sale at HD.  Because I want to use this in the shop where I have a lot of grease and unknown grunge to clean, I want the bottle to say it is a degreaser.  This is the only mason's line I found at HD. There was a bigger reel but I settled for this smaller one.

my strops are all stuck together
I was worried about this one
This one came apart and both strops remained where they should be. I wore the gloves for a while here to get a feel for them. They felt pretty good. They weren't slippery and the nitrile covering lends a bit of a sticky effect to things I touched. More importantly, I did not give off 4 gallons of sweat wearing these for over an hour. I had a good feel for what I was grabbing and pulling apart here. I could pick up a razor blade off the bench so that is a good thing.

the white/dark spots are hide glue (I think)
gave them a haircut on the tablesaw
Other then a bit of stink, the tablesaw had no problems sawing the plywood and the leather.  I am going to treat all three of the strops with mineral oil.

crosscut feather left by the tablesaw
mineral oil darkens them

Some more than others. This I don't understand because all three strops came out of the same piece of leather. So why 2 dark and one light? I trimmed the four edges with a razor blade putting a small bevel on them.

big kudos for the gloves
All that crap on the gloves is what usually would be on my fingers. I finished sanding the 077 with the gloves. I did 99% of it with them without any hiccups. All the fingertips are intact and there are no rips, tears, or gouges on any of them. These are definitely a keeper and there is still a lot of life and a few more rehabs left in these pair.

flattened the back, raised a burr, and sharpened it
the before pic
Even I was impressed with how well this rehab came out.

port side
bow shot sans the decal
starboard side
stern shot
The hardest part of this rehab was the two knobs. Both of them were black and I didn't think I would be able to get any part of them to shine.  The Zep cleaner and a wire brush cleaned up the knurling a little and sandpaper raised a shine in the other spots.

I was a little surprised by how rough this was in spots. I was expecting this to be a lot more uniform and precise. The handle had four rough spots on the outside edges. Two at the front and two at the back. I couldn't sand them out completely. Another rough spot was the bed for the iron. I could not only see it but I could feel it with my fingertips.

The hook part of the plane where the pins from the handle engage were rusted and very rough. The tops of them weren't finished and both are uneven and have a different shape. That part doesn't effect the fit of the handle but I would think this would be finished a bit better than this. I already mentioned the shim in the nose isn't symmetrical.

My overall impression of the plane is still highly favorable. The areas that matter the most appear to be dead nuts on. The sole is flat and square to the sides and the nose is in line with the sole too. All the areas I'm quibbling about won't interfere with the plane making rebates or being used as a chisel plane. These areas are cosmetic at best but they also show the care and workmanship of the person who made it.

can't put these in a drawer

hanging out here until I need them again
Binder clips just aren't for holding paper. I use them in the shop for things like this, as clamps for small glue ups, and more importantly for keeping the potato chip bag closed once it's been opened.

time to saw off the proud ends

chip missing
I missed getting this on the outside. I had seen it during the dry clamp run and I was going to put it on the outside and remove it by chamfering the legs. Obviously forgot to pay attention to that detail during the glue up.

last side flushed and cleaned up

used a stick to mark both legs for the 45 saw cut
handy having the miter guide on the bench hook
check of where I'll do the libella
I didn't know that my workbench was level. This is the first time I've ever checked for that.

unraveling like crazy
I cut the string with a razor blade and 3 inches of it instantaneously unraveled. This is nylon or a nylon like string and I had to light the end with a match to keep it from doing this.

ready to see if the libella says I'm level
I have two of these to check and I haven't come up with a way to secure the top end of the string. The tape will work for checking these out.

I couldn't see my black mark on the tape
It looked like it was on the line but I wasn't sure. It was hard to see the black mark on the blue tape.

 a pencil line
I squared a line across the brace by lining up the square with the apex at the top. The plumb bob line is dead nuts on that.

I got the left leg propped up on piece of scrap
It isn't off the plumb line as much as I thought it would be. It would take some getting used to but I think I could use this.

the second libella
Marking my square line off the apex.

it's off the squared line
I held the plumb bob string here and marked that with a pencil.

hanging right on the line
propped up the left leg
This libella shows a big difference between the plumb line and the bob. I was expecting this on the first one but I can see why now it wasn't. The leg spread on that one is greater than the shorter spread of this one. It would take a bigger offset to move the bob on the larger one due to how far apart the legs are.

swapped it 180
I got the same reading so the pencil line I have is the plumb line. I did this with the first libella too but I forgot to snap a pic of it.

found my centers
I'll do this one on monday. I think I would use this one more than the libella.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is Leap-the-Dips?
answer - the worlds oldest roller coaster built in 1902 and is located in Altoona, Pa

a puttering saturday......

Sun, 11/05/2017 - 1:59am
My day started early in the shop this saturday. My wife had gone off to one of her dead people meetings so the day was mine to do as I pleased. On the way home from OT I made a pit stop at the store for cat food. I give the cats canned food every saturday morning and no one will ever convince me other wise that they don't know what day of the week it is. Saturday is the only day that they follow me around everywhere until I feed them.

Before I went to the shop I balanced my check book and tried to think of what I wanted to get accomplished today. When I got to the workbench I still had not made up my mind on what to do. So I puttered and doodled and wandered aimlessly around the shop. I got a few little things done but still no focus of what is the next project.

finished the libella first
There wasn't any spring back when I removed the clamps so I thought I was golden. The inside was still square but the outside wanders off and up the further it got from the half lap. I don't think it will be a problem but I'll have to wait and see.

I concentrated on keeping the inside square but I ended up with this gap. I chopped the 1/2 lap on the legs first and laid the brace in them. I then marked the brace directly off the junction between the two. That didn't seem to mean diddly squat because I still got a gap.

inside corner is still 90 - glued it up and set it aside
working on Miles's #6
This is the first frog I've rehabbed that didn't need a ton of work to flatten and raise a bit of shine on. After a few strokes I checked it and I had consistent scratches top to bottom. This is done after one grit and ready for paint.

prepping the plane body for paint
Since this plane isn't going to be used for a while and will be sitting idle in a toolbox, I'm going to put on a primer coat first. I'll spray the primer on but I will brush the top coats on. The first step, besides shaking the rattle can for a while, is to clean the body with acetone. I filled all the screw holes with extra parts so I don't get paint in them.

taping off the sides and bottom
This is blue painters tape. You don't want to use masking tape for this and especially so if you leave it on for a while. I plan on keeping the blue tape on for a while and when I do take it off it will easily peel off. And it won't leave behind a ton of tape adhesive residue like masking tape.

strops ready to be glued
Almost all of the curl in these has gone away.

could have used this
This has my friend Roger's number on it. He was a fellow vet who passed away a couple of years ago. I still can't bring myself to use it and I could have gotten all three backers out of this. I'll leave here for few days and put it back by the tablesaw.

I'm using hide glue
my current strops
I used hide glue on these and they have held up for the last 4+ years. One is glued to 3/4" plywood and the bottom one is MDF. I have been using and abusing these without any problems with the strops staying in place. The corners are still down and tight so I'm using hide glue again.

3 strops cooking away until tomorrow
painted the frog
I cleaned this with acetone first and no primer on this. I brushed on one coat of black and I will put on another coat tomorrow. I painted the yoke too and put a nail where the pin goes and nailed it a joist to dry.

looks better doesn't it?
The sides definitely will need a second coat but the back looks good with just one.

good even coat from toe to heel
 The top coat will come after I have sanded and cleaned up the cheeks and the sole.

original plastic bag and rust paper
this partial sticker isn't going to survive this clean up
I am not a collector and I really don't care one way or the other about this sticker. I want a user plane once I get the oily goop off of this. There isn't any way I can save the sticker so it's history. I feel the same way about the box but I'll hang on to it. I will put it with the box that my Record 043 small plow plane came in.

sandpaper did diddly
Before I can try and shine up the body, I am going to have to remove the oily crap on the plane. 220 sandpaper just gunked up on me sanding this dry.

mineral spirits bath time
I am going to soak the entire plane overnight and tomorrow I'll try and clean it up.

time to try something new
 I broke this hammer about 10 years ago and bought a new one. The both of these are Craftsman brand 8 ounce rip claw hammers. I think that this would be a good first hammer for Miles. It just needs a new handle and replacing one is something I've never done before.

drilling out the wood that is left
it's tapered
The top of the head is slightly larger then the bottom. I removed out the remaining wood with a metal punch.

the two wedges
I am not sure if these reusable or not. I am going to do a search for a handle and I'll see if there are wedges for sale.

traced the outline
The left one is the bottom opening and the right is the top. There is a small difference and I can see a taper from top to bottom by looking down through the top.

my plumb bob string options
Fish line, twine, and cotton thread. I don't like the any of these choices. I would use the twine but it's a braided, fall apart twine.  It was proving to be impossible to keep it together to thread through the hole in the plumb bob.

clever idea
The previous owner of this used a small piece of what looks like a pipe cleaner to act as a stop. This orange line doesn't feel like thread and it isn't braided. I tried twirling to see if I could do that and couldn't. I'll make a run to Home Depot tomorrow and see what they have in the way of mason's line.

Did anyone forget to turn the clocks back for the idiotic DST shift?

Accidental woodworker

trivia corner
He died at Fort Sill, Oklahoma in Feb 1909. Who was he?
answer - the great Apache leader, Geronimo

is winter coming........

Sat, 11/04/2017 - 12:35am
It was a wonderful day in the neighborhood. Clear blue skies with a few high wispy clouds and just a hint of a breeze. It is November 3, 2017 and the temperature today hit 73°F (23°C). The nights for the next few days will be in the low 50's and the T-shirt weather is forecasted to go into next week. I'm happier about this than a clam at low tide.

new sash lift came in
I should have gotten this one in the first place.

shiny brass
This is a substantial improvement over the the piece of crap that it replaces. How can you go wrong with shiny brass?

crap on the right
I glued a piece of wood on the back of this to act as a spacer. Sometimes these stamped pieces of crappola tend to dish in when the screws are tightened down.

much better looking now
It's a match with the lid lift and the handles on the ends.

for Miles toolbox
I think a bullnose plane is a useful plane to have. I bought this as soon as I saw on Jim Bode's tool site. I didn't pay what was written on the box. I know it isn't shillings because 20 shillings is equal to one pound so that dates this box to when the pound converted to the decimal system (100 pence = 1 pound). At today's exchange rate this would cost $3.47 american. Adjusted for inflation it would be about $26.  I wish I had paid that but I didn't.

Record 077
 I don't think that this was ever used even once. The entire plane is still covered in a protective film that has hardened and thinned out a bit. I thought the plane was covered with rust blooms in the pic I saw but there aren't any. I mistook the protective film covering the plane for rust.

out of the box
I advanced the iron and planed a rabbet. Other than trying to do it a straight line, I had no hiccups.

can't get a  fresher or newer iron than this
This is still covered with the oily film too. And it still has the original factory grind marks.

back side of the iron
I'm not sure what the spots are and my first step with this will be to remove the oily sticky crap all over it. I'll try a bath in mineral spirits first.

converts to a chisel plane - the only spot on the plane with rust
is that a shim?
I seem to remember that the thin shiny piece of metal is a removable shim. Taking it off closes up the mouth more. I couldn't get it off tonight but maybe after it is cleaned up I might be able to.

12" square
This square is 12" on the inside and 14" on the outside. The blade is 2" wide and straight. No bends or wiggles along the whole length.

outside edge is square
From what I just learned this plane is meant to be used on the inside and outside checking for square.

what wood is it?

From looking at this I would guess it is ebony. If it isn't ebony than it is some dark rosewood with no figure at all.

15" on the left, 12" on the right
The brass plates are very similar but I am not familiar with these types of plates that I could date them or figure out the manufacturer. The 15" square has no maker mark at all except one side has an owner 'X' carved in it.

maker of the 12" square
inside brass plates
These plates are different. The 15" one is screwed on and I can't see any screws or other type of fasteners on the 12" one.

not square on the in or out side edges
checking the outside edge - the bottom
the top runs out
the inside bottom - this looks promising here
runs in at the top
It looks like I'll be doing some filing on both of the edges to bring them into square.

6mm iron holder
a little more than half the iron is in the holder
I'm going to glue it here
labeled it before I glued it in the box
carefully laid out my half laps this time
much better
I am dead nuts flush on the two but I'm slightly off on the ends.

wee bit of crap at the bottom
I have two choices to clean this up. A chisel or a tenon plane.

cleaned both of them with two swipes of the tenon plane
my leg spread
This is going to be a big ass libella.

nutso glue up with hide glue
My half laps are dead on square and I wanted the glue up to be dead on too. There isn't much more to do to complete this. Install the horizontal brace and saw the bottom of the legs off at a 45 will complete libella #2.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What US college has the oldest medical school?
answer - Univ of Pennsylvania