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Accidental Woodworker

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The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2547125
Updated: 10 min 28 sec ago

made a new tool.......

17 hours 38 min ago
I am not someone who revels in making their own tools. I would much rather buy a tool I need but sometimes you don't have that choice. Especially so when you are in the middle of building something and you are dead in the water because of a lack of a specific tool. I came close to that today but in my case I made a tool to replace a manufactured one. It wasn't planned and it was driven strictly by not liking how the manufactured one was working.

there was a bench underneath all the crappola
It took me about 6 minutes to clear off the sharpening bench. I needed access to the stones so I could sharpen the 2" chisel I need to chisel the miters on the bookcase frame. Most of the crap on here ended up on the nearest horizontal surface which happened to be the tablesaw.

trying out my 8000 grit Japanese stone
A couple of spritzs of water to use the nagura stone to make a slurry. On my last 8K japanese stone I didn't use the nagura stone. I didn't have any problems with not using it and I may start it here too. I'll use it until I get used to the stone and get a feel for it's character.

flattened it
The chisel did not feel like it was flat on the stone. Looking at the bevel, I could see there was hollow spot so I stopped and flattened the stone. I assumed it was flat but after a few strokes, I could see it wasn't.

looks ok
This new stone is a bit softer than my old one. It will take a while to get used to it. I'm also not sure about the shine on the bevel. I haven't sharpened and honed this chisel much so I don't have much history to remember on it. I do like the extra width of the stone a lot. The new stone is almost 3/4" wider than the old one.

chisel is ready but this isn't
The template is shifting as I tighten the vise with the template rolling inboard. This is aggravating because it will effect the face of the miter and possibly cause gaps.

appears to be square
There isn't a lot of meat to register against the square but it lined up square end to end. The template isn't the cause of the rolling.

it was the small rabbets
I made these so they were half lapped so to speak with the miter template. A few shavings off of each and there is no more contact with the template on the ends of this filler.

fixed
No more rolling inboard and the gap is gone at the top between the template and the filler.

chiseling away at 45°
pretty good
Not perfect, but acceptable for a painted joint.

I trimmed this miter with the template
I didn't have to trim this because I already did it on the shooting board. I wanted to try out the template on this part of the frame too. I ended up trimming it back too much. The toe of the miter extends past the quirk. The miter toe on this one has to end at the quirk to mate and line up with the other miter.

now it is where it should be
a little better fitting
now that is a gap
I lost a bit over an 1/8" playing with both of the miters. The goal with this practice was to first get the miters to fit. Secondly, was the flat and I hope I'm not going to shoot myself in the foot and saying I'm good on that part.

right side is gappy
This is where I found out I was displeased with the manufactured template. Even with the 2" chisel it was not easy maintaining registration on the templates two edges.

thin edges
Try as I might I couldn't get any feedback that I was flat on these two edges. Even when I pushed down on the chisel at the bevel, I still had some uncertainties.

chewed up a little
These I could feel and they were a minor distraction. There wasn't a smooth, fluid motion with the chisel as I swept it across these two edges.

new miter template stock
My first choice was 1/2 maple but that would have required secured two pieces somehow to each other at 90°. I didn't want to wait for that to set up. Choice #2 was european beech but it wasn't thick enough at only 7/8" thick. The rabbet I wanted to make in it would make it too thin for the 3/4" frame stock thickness. The winner was a big chunk of ash. It is over 1 1/4" thick and the rabbet in it will be able to cover the 3/4" frame.

rift sawn at this end
This will up the stability of the template but even if it wasn't, I feel comfortable using this wood. I have had it hanging out in the shop for a couple of years. Hopefully it won't do any stupid wood tricks when I finish making it.

got my 45 laid out
I chiseled my saw wall on the face and I concentrated on sawing directly down on this corner.

I've got a good feeling about this
Just by looking at this I can see that the plumb looks goods but I'm not sure of the 45°. I did have the saw wall and I didn't deviate from that.

the opposite face that was down
Just a little bit of the knife line still visible here. On the rest of it I can barely make it out.

pretty good on the top too
I am feeling like I should pat myself on the back. This is the absolute best miter I have ever done to date. Nothing else even comes close and I still have to check it with a combo square.

wow
This is damn good for me. Wow again. I feel almost like Paul Sellers and his nonchalant sawing of miters. This is the face that was down and although it isn't making 100% contact, this is still impressing me a lot.

the other face
It doesn't get any better than this. This face side is almost perfect. For the Jackie Gleason fans, "....how sweet it is......".

the first step
The opposite side of the face I sawed was a bit high and the sawn face wasn't square to the side. A couple of swipes and all was well in Disneyland.

one teeny hump in the middle to remove
The hump was done with the chisel. It took 3 dance steps but I finally got rid of it.

problem with the new miter template
The space between the bead and the template is going to bite me on the buttocks.

it's rolling outboard
I knew this was too good to be true. This template is too small for the stock. If the outside leg extended down more, this might not be happening. Time to see if I can repeat this in a larger size.

sawing the 45 first
 On the first one I sawed out the blank and then sawed the miter. It was a bit difficult sawing it out due to it's small size. On this one I am sawing the 45 first and then I'll saw out the blank.

two strokes and I was through
And no, I didn't leave any saw marks on the workbench.

squared the sides to the face
I didn't check the 45 yet because I wanted to saw out the rabbet first. That would leave me with less meat to make into a 45°. When I did check it, I was off 45 by a couple of degrees. I think I did that when I planed the face square. It took me a lot of time and fussing to get this angle to 45°. I would plane and check, plane and check. Swear, curse, and threaten it with bodily harm and plane and check it some more. After leaving this twice and coming back to it, I finally got the miter to equal 45°. Personally, I think it was the threat of flying lessons that sealed the deal.

no rolling and no gaps
much better
This is a 23 bazillion percent improvement over the metal miter template. The two registration edges on my homemade template are much broader and larger. All that extra real estate translates into a steadier chisel and a warm and fuzzy having rock steady faces to swing the chisel on.

one small and one big
I ended up with a right and left hand miter template and I didn't plan it that way. I would rather both being the same but I can see the advantage of having both. These weren't that hard to make and if the need comes up, I can easily make another one. I have a lot of the ash hanging out in the shop.

my stash of good brushes
This is where I keep my brushes and all of them are labeled as to what they are used for. Most of them are for latex with one for oil paint and another for oil based poly. I wanted a brush for water based poly but I didn't have one. I am sure I had one but my wife knows of this stash and I'm sure she wouldn't check what it was labeled. Not that I'm saying she took it.

roll back brushes from Wally World
I always try to buy the best brush I can. If you clean them and take care of them, they will last forever. Most of the brushes in my stash are 15-20 years old and I still have the 4" brush I last used to help my father paint a house with. These were the best that Wally World had and they were on sale. I would rather have a 2 1/2" brush but the 3" will do. 2 1/2" brushes fit in quart cans and 3" brushes are better suited for gallon cans.

labeled
I had wanted to get the poly on the bookcase and the shelves today but it didn't happen. I painted the shelves, again. This time it was to paint over the layout lines for the shelf pin sockets. It is a definite, as firm as unset Jello, that I will get one coat of poly on it tomorrow.

almost done
I still have chisels that I thought I had sharpened and honed but hadn't. I started to sharpen this one and the right side of the bevel has a hollow. The smallest one in the box has a flat on the end of the bevel. It is shiny and bright and looks sharp but it probably would not cut wet cardboard. Something I that will definitely maybe pick back up tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is duende?
answer - the power to attract through personal magnetism and charm

a different miter practice.....

Sat, 06/24/2017 - 1:25am
Today was hot and humid. Both of these happening together make me a miserable SOB to be around if I'm not in an AC space. As I am typing up this blog post, the skies are turning gray because there is supposed to be a line of thunder boomers rolling through. And those are forecasted to last into tomorrow morning. After the wet stuff leaves, the H&H is coming back. Sunday is going to be toasty with a predicted temp of 90°F+ (32°C+)along with high humidity.

I do have some good news. Amazon shot an email to me saying I'll be getting my camera on July 3rd. They haven't taken the money yet so I'm not sure that they haven't gotten them yet neither. I am having it delivered to my wife's work place. There is always someone there to sign for it. And if they won't sign for it, they can call my wife to come do it.  This way I don't have to worry about someone stealing it if it is left on the stoop.

prepping some practice stock
Miters aren't in my top ten joints I like to do. I am slowly getting better doing them and I have a special miter to practice here. This one is mitering a beaded frame so the bead runs continuously around the bookcase. I need to square and straighten out the stock first.

two long pieces of practice stock
These two pieces are the same width as the frame parts I am using on the bookcase.

slight rabbet on the side
Matt from the tiny workshop blog here recently did an awesome job of documenting rehabbing a beading plane. After reading that I knew what was causing this tiny rabbet here.

the iron needs work
I thought I had the iron profile set pretty good and matching the bed profile. According to Matt the rabbet is caused by the left side of the iron being proud of the bed. It should fade away into the bed profile and not be proud of it. I'll be fixing this and copying Matt step by step when I do. For now I'll just sand this little bit off.

what are the odds?
I didn't bother to make square lines on the practice parts I sawed out. I just made a tic mark for the length and sawed them out. All four saw cuts are plumb and square. If I had made square lines to saw on I probably would have gotten toast.

the 3 practice pieces
I want to practice making  both the right and left side joints on the frame. The left one is easy to do as it naturally allows me to use the dominant right hand. On the right I'll have to rely mostly on my left hand.

quick outing on the shooting board
Since the ends were sawn square, all I had to do here was shoot the edges clean and smooth.

back up practice stock for just in case
marking the miters on the side frame
My last time doing this I tried to mark the miter on the front beaded side. That didn't work too good and I couldn't tell where the toe of the miter was because of the molded edge. I am running the miter from the back onto the front bottom.

marking gauge line
This is all I need on the top. The marking gauge line is the top or heel of the miter and I'll use it to set the chisel into it to set the miter template before I chop the miter.

miter laid out on the face
I need to have some idea of where the miter face will run so that when I saw this face I don't saw to deep. I will be sawing the waste from both sides. On the back the miter face is easy to see because there isn't a bead and a quirk in the way. I will be sawing in the quirk and I can see where the miter face is, I don't need to know where it is on the beaded portion.

the vise action is still working
the top one is easy to do
I rough cut the miters just before the back wall of the quirk. I will plane to that on the shooting board.

one easy and one not so easy
This one was done 1-2-3. The other one took a bit of fussing to do. I would shoot and check and kept at that until the toe of the miter hit the back wall of the quirk.

second marking gauge line
I ran the second line to the middle-ish of the quirk. The saw will remove the bulk of the waste and once I have the miter chiseled, I will square up and level it down to the quirk bottom.

most of the waste is sawn off
I need to spend some calories on the sharpening stones
I was going to stop here and pick this up tomorrow but I couldn't wait.

I should have waited
Ugly looking miter even if you look at it with one eye closed and the other one half open.

this miter is dead nuts 45°
The other one is less than 45°.

why this miter is toast
I knew that I shouldn't have used this 1 inch chisel because I already found out it was too small. Like an idiot, I thought I could use it because I knew it's shortcoming. That knowledge obviously didn't help. Look at the right bottom corner of the chisel. It is off the edge of the miter template and digging into the miter making it less than 45. The chisel needs to be on both the top and side edges at all times. The one inch chisel is too narrow to do that.

this is must
If the chisel isn't on both edges of the template, it is no longer being cut at 45°.

got the flat done good

flush at the top
Both heels on the miters are correct in that they are dead nuts on the marking gauge line. The heels govern the flush at the top. I think I am ready to do these miters now that I know being impatient will bite me on the ass. I will still do the practice joints before I commit to the real thing.


I won these
I saw these on Josh's tool site (Hyperkitten tools) and I didn't get them The next day they were still there which surprised me. I thought that Josh would be writing emails forever explaining that they were already sold to unlucky ones asking for them. This time I bought them. Josh said that these are from the 1960's based on no UPC barcode being on the package. I have a Stanley pump drill that takes these but I bought them to see if they will fit my North Bros. drill. I lost the 5/32" bit for it. The 5/32 bit is the size to drill holes for knobs and handles. I'll check it out tomorrow if I don't forget I have them.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How are seedless oranges propagated?
answer - by grafting because the original seedless orange was a mutant

Ray Iles iron follow up.......

Fri, 06/23/2017 - 12:52am
I got asked a few questions about the Ray Iles replacement Iron I got for my Stanley 5 1/2. I briefly went over it in yesterday's blog and today I'll try to address what I was asked and what I think I should add.

First off I would buy another of these in a heart beat even though I only have one days worth of experience with them. I've got other replacement Stanley irons, one from Hock and another from tools from Japan. The Hock is an excellent iron. Good steel, takes and holds a good edge, but it is thicker than the original Stanley as is the one from Japan. The Japanese one I haven't tried yet but I expect it to rival the Hock iron.

Let me get this out before I go any further. I am not a plane iron expert nor an expert in metallurgy. This is just my opinion on a subject, right, wrong, or indifferent. For well over one hundred years Stanley made plane irons thin. I have yet to read anything saying that thin irons are prone to chattering. It is my belief that thin irons are/were more difficult to make from what I have read on the process of making them. The thinness while hardening them could cause  them to warp. Stanley must have found a way to control it because they made boatload after boatload of these irons. Thicker irons don't have the warping tendencies that thinner iron do.

And this is my big opinion on why thicker irons came into use. It was because they were easier to manufacture. Now that they were saving money in the manufacturing costs they had to justify why they were selling thicker irons. This is where the marketing gurus came up with the thicker irons don't chatter BS.

I will always go with thin because of my opinion on thick vs thin,. The couple of times I recall (a bazillion moons ago when I was belly button high to a 7 foot cigar store indian) getting chatter was because I had the iron set too deep. It wasn't because it was thin. It was operator error.


Ray Iles spare iron for the 5 1/2
If I can not find original Stanley irons I'll get a Ray Iles. I have at least two irons for all my planes and some I have 3 of. The 5 1/2 iron is a hard one to find OEM or in the wild. I found one for $80 but I didn't buy it and I'm glad I didn't.

it isn't square
I tried to set the chipbreaker flush with the sides of the iron and noticed the end wasn't square to the iron. It is a wee bit OTL (out to lunch). It is low on the right and rising slightly up on the left.


see the out of square
The chipbreaker is flush with the sides of the iron.  With the two of them flush and square to each other it makes setting the iron parallel to the mouth much easier. I also strive to have the lateral adjust centered on the iron. If these two are off, the lateral adjust will off to one side or the other from center. That limits your range of adjustment.

the Ray Iles on the left and the Stanley on the right
 You can see a difference in the irons but it is closer than other replacement irons.

The Ray Iles iron is 0.099 inches thick - 2.49mm thick
The Stanley iron is 0.0735 inches thick - 1.89mm thick
The difference between them is 0.0255 inches - 0.6 mm. I did all the measurements just behind the bevel on both irons.

I have to road test it now
I have not done anything with the iron other than to look at with a goofy face. This is what is happening in real time with the iron right out of the package. I did not move the frog back neither. I left it where it was from the other iron setup. The mouth closed up a bit but not much. As we'll see it didn't effect passing shavings up and out through the mouth.

starting to get shavings
a little too thick
This is one continuous shaving from end to end. Thicker than I like but the two passes gave the same shavings.

from thick to wispy
I adjusted the iron and got some see through shavings. This isn't to bad considering how rough the bevel on this iron looks. I would use this on a project to plane with. I didn't feel any appreciable differences in planing between the two irons.

thin stock in the vise
Someone asked me why I used the planing stop. For thin width stock up to around 3-4" I like to use the planing stop. It is flat and level because the stock is laying on the bench top. In the vise, sometimes, the stock is too thin for the vise to grab it. Most of the time I don't get it level in the vise with the far end usually being pitched downwards. Another thing I don't have a warm and fuzzy about is it is so close to the top of the bench and the vise.

I prefer the fractional calipers
Frank doesn't have any fractional calipers and asked me to use this to measure in inches and mm.

checking to see if it is laminated
The color and texture of the iron is uniform from toe to heel. No lines or separations between the bevel end and the bottom of the slot neither.

same thing on both sides
front side of the iron is the same as the back
After looking over the iron I would say that it isn't laminated. I would think that I would have seen some color difference or demarcation between the two metals if they were there.

might as well see how flat the back is
ten strokes
This is pretty flat. Not as good as I have seen with a Lee Valley iron, but pretty darn good. It shouldn't take more then another ten minutes or so to get this flat. I didn't do that tonight.

these feel better today
The cool, clammy feeling I felt yesterday is 99% gone. Maybe tomorrow I'll be able to sand these and put on the poly.  I'll do that if I can sand this without getting a gummy eraser like residue. I really want to be done with this bookcase. I have a dutch toolchest to make for Myles.

cellar dehumidifier
This works ok until the the humidity gets up above the high 80s into the 90s range. After that it struggles to keep up. Tonight the humidity in the shop is 68% and it feels dry now. Sunday is supposed to be very hot and very humid. I wonder if that is giving me the clammy feeling on the bookcase?

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who is David Adkins?
answer - it is the birth name of the comedian Sinbad

Ray Iles came......

Thu, 06/22/2017 - 1:09am
My international order came today from Ray Iles. I got it a lot faster than I was expecting it. I wonder if the Brit exit from EU will up the shipping times not to mention will there be any added hassles when it happens.  I got this in the mail and I ordered another thing.

I had posted a query on the Saw Mill Creek site about plow planes. I have the Record 405 (Stanley 45 equivalent) and it has 26 irons. I have only used 3 grooving irons so far. I like it and I don't like it. I am a single purpose use tool type guy and don't mind that. The 405 does a lot of things and is a multipurpose tool. It can be finicky and pain to set sometimes but it does work once those frustrations are dealt with.

I wanted to get some feed back on guys that have used a 405 or 45 and also used the Lee Valley small plane or other plow planes. And as an added bonus, also had used a wooden plow plane. I am letting the 405 go to greener pastures shortly. After reading through the comments, it became clear to me that small LV plow was a favorite. Didn't get any comments on wooden plow planes.

I had seen and fondled the Lie-Nielsen plow plane at the Second Hand Tool gathering in Amana a few years ago. It was a damn good looking plane. Lots of mass with a great presence in the hands. I haven't heard anything more about it since then. I'll probably be dead before it hits the street so I pulled the trigger on the Lee Valley small plow plane. I looked at the Lee Valley big plow plane coming soon but I like the simpler, uncluttered look of the smaller plow plane.

Ken Hatch left a comment saying I wouldn't regret the LV plane. He uses it and he also has experience with a Stanley 45 and 46. I respect his opinion and I pretty much had my mind made up after reading it. I would like to have the LN version but I'm not waiting. I should have the LV maybe by monday. After I get it I will offer my 405 for sale first on the blog and then elsewhere.

the PITA
The interior of the bookcase feels clammy. It is dry to the touch and there isn't any paint getting on my fingertips but it doesn't feel dry. The exterior feels dry, it is rough to the touch and not clammy feeling anywhere. I am going to let this set here for a few days and check what it is like then. Right now it is just pissing me off. I tried sanding it and it was like using an eraser. I was getting a gummy like residue instead of a fine powder.


the shelves are clammy feeling too
 The shelves can hang out with bookcase and dry out some more too. I decided to not chop sockets for the pins. The frame will keep the shelves in place and it's one less thing I have to do.

cleared customs ok
iron for a 5 1/2 and a Preston spokeshave
it's about 2 1/4" wide
almost as thin as the Stanley
The pic I shot of measuring the Stanley iron didn't come out. The Stanley measures a frog hair less than 5/64. That makes the Ray Iles iron a little than a 64th thicker than the Stanley. I'm liking this a lot because I don't buy the thicker irons reduce chatter crap at all.

ground at 25°
don't like this
I do not like hollow ground irons and that is what this is. I will sharpen it and let it stay this way and let subsequent sharpenings remove it.

old Preston iron on the left and new replacement Ray Iles iron on the right
The left one is giving me an illusion that it is bigger than the new Ray Iles but it isn't. They are pretty much the same with a couple of frog hair differences in the length of the slot.


the slot sides and top cutout line up (new on top of the old)

The slot on the Ray Iles is bit longer and the concave slot at the top lines up perfectly with the old iron underneath.

it's too wide for the Preston chamfering spokeshave
I knew this was too big but this is the actual proof is in the pudding.

new spokeshave iron on the left and Preston chamfer iron on the right

the two slot long sides line up
The older iron is about a 8th inch longer, top to bottom. The important thing is the top slots are exactly the same dimensions and line up perfectly.

replacement chamfer iron?
The tall slots aren't the same length but I don't think that would present any problems. The top slot is where the adjuster knob raises and lowers the iron that is the same. Maybe I can find someone to mill the Ray Iles spokeshave iron sides down to match the width of the older iron. If not I will try to do it with some cutoff wheels in my dremel.

just a few spots on the front to touch up

small detail brush
This worked perfectly getting the area around the lateral adjust.

done
The front of frog will be covered so I'm only putting one coat on it. Tomorrow if this feels ok to the touch, I'll sand the face on a flat surface to remove the black paint on it.

For Mike Hamilton: I'm an idiot because I removed your comment when I thought I was publishing it. My apologies for that mind fart.  If I remember you asked if I was going to bake the frog? This is oil based black enamel paint and I won't be baking it. On the flip side of the coin, can you bake this to make it more durable? Now I have a bug in my ear to silence.

Who was Gary Knox Bennett?
answer - he invented the roach clip (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mFaot87a7CM)

a minor set back......

Wed, 06/21/2017 - 12:41am
The humidity is keeping up with the Jones but the heat isn't too bad. Summer starts tomorrow with the solstice happening at 1224 (AM) EDT. With the humidity we have had already and the weather being out of whack world wide, I think we are in for a toasty summer. My cats are a good indication of what is going on because they become more and more sedentary and sleep more with increasing heat and humidity. They eat less but they don't neglect keeping up the deposits in the litter box.

one coat
 The yoke slips over the groove in the adjuster knob freely. I feel that if I put on another coat that it could be too much. I'm not sure how long this paint will last once the plane is back together and in use.

one more here
There is a smudge by my finger and another on the bottom seat. One more coat on here will take care of them and be ok for the rest. Tomorrow I'll strip the painters tape off the front and touch up the spots there.

layout for the new shelf pin pockets
These aren't really needed because the frame will be in front of the shelf keeping it from coming forward. That is what the purpose of these pin sockets are for. Sounds a bit redundant.


the length isn't critical, the width is
I just thought of not having to do this as I was completing the layout. I put this aside after I did the layout and I'll think on whether or not to chop new shelf pin sockets.

tale of two drill bits
I have to clean out the holes I drilled and then painted over. The bit on the left is great for drilling a clean hole with a flat bottom. The one on the right will be used for cleaning the paint out of the holes.

not too too bad   this is the worse one
The holes look relatively clean considering how many coats of paint I put on the interior.

hand drill excels at this
You could use a powered hand drill (and I have) but the hand drill allows for a slower start and less chance of having the drill dancing all over the interior. You place the drill over the hole and turn the bit in reverse. This cleans up the top of the hole and registers the bit dead center on the hole. Once the hole top rim is established again, run the drill forward and all the paint comes out.

set the bit on what is there
Don't go nutso trying to center the bit because you can't see the outer rim of the hole. Running the bit in reverse cleans the rim and bit drops into the hole, centered.

turned in reverse a couple of turns
going forward
Most of the paint comes out now and you have a nice clean hole again.

two cleaned holes on the left and holes to be cleaned on the right
doing the back wall holes
I had to remove the side handle and I still had room between the wall and the drill. Going in reverse wasn't a problem but going forward was. The drill wanted to twist to the right and bang into the back wall. It was awkward holding the top of drill with basically my fingertips and stopping that from happening.

almost had a blow out
This surprised me because I used a depth stop to drill all the holes 5/16" deep in 3/4" thick stock. As soon as I saw wood with the drill I stopped. Guess I didn't stop quick enough on this hole.

tweezers
The drill didn't pull out everything. What was left behind I was able to get with the tweezers.

no blowouts or partial ones on the second side
the minor setback
The plan was to scrape the interior, sand it, vacuum it, and apply the first of two cots of water based poly. I got the scraping and vacuuming done. I'll have to paint parts of the interior again because the scraper pulled a blob of paint off. Along with the surprise from the scraper, I left smudges and dirty finger marks all over the interior. I'll have to get some gloves so I don't dirty this up again.

the last time painting (maybe)
I did the sides and got paint in most of the freshly cleaned holes so I'll be doing the hand drill dance steps again. I also painted the top and bottom to cover my smudges but I didn't paint the back. We'll see what shakes out tomorrow with this.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Maine is the most heavily forested US state. Who is in tenth place?
answer - North Carolina


the last day........

Tue, 06/20/2017 - 12:54am
I feel like a condemned man awaiting his last meal. Tonight is the last time I'll see my grandson until maybe xmas. Him and his mother are flying back to North Carolina tomorrow so I'll have to get by with the pics she emails me. By the time I get home tomorrow there will be nothing but an empty crib and high chair to remind me of him.

I had to go back to the shop tonight and reshoot my pics.  It seems you can shoot as many pics as you want without a sim card. The camera doesn't give a warning that there isn't one installed. There was only shot I couldn't get again so it wasn't too bad.

done
This is the pic I couldn't get again - the one before I painted them. There was no joy when I looked at the shelves tonight. I could still see some streaks of the gray primer through the white. The bottom was worse than the top. I put on the final coat of white on the top and bottom. The front  ledger strip is getting painted a different color so I could rest the shelves on that while they dried.

I am not painting these anymore. This is the last coat I am putting on the shelves. Period. And I am thinking of going to back to oil based paint because it hides better and covers better than latex does. This final statement doesn't apply to the exterior of the bookcase. However, I'm betting the ranch that it will take the same 3 coats to cover.


painted the frog
If I do anymore of these rehabs, I'll be brushing the black paint on. I like using the brush over spraying.

yoke painted too
My fingers didn't get too much paint on them doing this. I had to hold it while I painted one half of it. I tried to brush it hanging on the wire and got nowhere with that.

one coat?
Both ends of the yoke have wear points to consider. The forked end fits in a groove on the adjuster knob and too much paint build up may cause binding. The other end with the tab lowers and raises the iron/chipbreaker. I will check the forked part on the adjuster knob tomorrow and gauge how paint build up I have to deal with.

still working
This is a cheapo brush as you can tell by the stamped ferrule. However, the brush part is working very well on the plane parts. I'm surprised that is has lasted this long and it still has a lot of life left in it.

from Wally World $4.95
With tax the ten brushes came to about 53 cents each. There are a few small thin brushes in there that I'll use it to paint some of the tight areas on the frog face around the lateral adjust lever.

Time to go spend a little time with Myles before he goes to bed for the night.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What auto maker made the first armored tanks used by US troops in battle during WWI (september 1918)?
answer - French auto maker Renault no american made tanks were used in WWI

crappy sunday.......

Mon, 06/19/2017 - 12:33am
Today was a blah day squared or maybe cubed. I had got up early with the intention of going to work to do a couple of hours of OT. That never happened due to me rolling over and falling back to sleep twice. By the time I did finally get up the urge to do OT had passed and I was contemplating rolling over again for a third time.  But I was a good boy this time and got up because I had a blog to proof and post.

The weather matched the start of my day. It was overcast and humid. Not rip your face off humid but if the temp had gone up any higher it would have been close to that. Around noonish a thunderstorm rolled through and the rain came down worse than a cow letting loose on a flat rock. And the humidity went up a few notches but stayed shy of the rip your face off threshold. The rain stopped and the sun came out.

When I finally did get down to the shop I didn't get a lot done. I looked at the workbench which had the bookcase and two shelves on and said I can't work there. I didn't feel like moving those 3 things to a new home right then so I went back upstairs.

What I did get done today was the tool list for Myles kit. I used Paul Sellers essential tool list as a guide and pretty much stuck with his recommendations. I added a #5 1/4 jack plane and a couple of smoothers. He is getting a #3 and a #4 and I think he will probably end with the #2 I'm doing now. I was surprised by how many tools I already have for his kit. As for the toolbox or toolchest, I'm leaning in the direction of the CS dutch toolchest. It would be large enough to keep all of his tools in it. And I can stow it in boneyard till he his old enough for to use it.

3 coats of paint
The shelves are going to take at least two more coats. I'll do two on the top but the bottoms are only getting one. They aren't as clammy feeling today and I will try to get at least one coat on today in spite of the humidity.

 lightly dragged the scraper over the shelves
The scraper does a very job of removing all dust nibs and leveling it out at the same time.

sanding block batted second
This wasn't leveling out the slight ridges left by the paint brush. The scraper out performed the sanding block there. The sander block did a good job of smoothing the shelf after the scraper.

no more paint ridges

older primer
I am using this primer because it says on the can 'any angle spray'. I'll be using a lot of angles to spray the frog and the yoke. The primer I used on the plane body you have to keep the can vertical and spray horizontally. I don't know how old this is but I did shake the crap out of it for a long time.

two quick spray jobs
I took the wire off of a fried rice container to hold the yoke while I painted it. I taped off the frog face, the stud for the adjuster knob, and the lateral adjust lever. I did not tape off the area on the back where the frog contacts the plane body frog seat. I'll scrape that clean once I'm done painting.

primer coat on the frog
right above the clock
Having the ability to spray at different angles payed off doing the yoke.

risers
for keeping the bookcase off the deck
I didn't get the interior of the bookcase done. It needs to be scraped and sanded first. Then I have to run a drill in all the holes to clean out the paint drips that got in them. I bought the water based poly today so it's ready to go. I'm telling myself that I am waiting for the shelves to be done so I can do everything at once.

I painted the shelves in two steps today. I did the back and 6 hours later I did the front. I took my time and tried my hardest to get it done with no brush marks along with good coverage. It looked good when I was done but I'll have to wait until tomorrow to see what the coverage looks like.

got one
Nancy Hiller wrote 3 books and I ordered 2 of them from Amazon (I already read her latest). Both of them are coming Amazon Prime and one got here today and another one is expected tomorrow. I also bought a book of essays she wrote and I have no idea what is waiting for me there. I'm not sure if the essays count as a book or as a collection; got it anyways.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a octahedron?
answer - two pyramids attached together at their bases (technical definition: a polyhedron with eight faces, twelve edges, and six vertices)

slow lane saturday.......

Sun, 06/18/2017 - 4:02am
My wife took Amanda and Myles to New York to see her parents. She sent me a picture of Amanda and Myles with her grandparents but something was missing. My wife who is the budding genealogist wasn't in the picture. Her chance to have a pic of four generations for Myles to look at 20 years from now is gone. She is coming home tomorrow so I'll have to wait and see if her sister snapped the 4 four generations pic.

I moved way over to the slow lane on the right today. I had big plans for finishing the bookcase by sunday but that won't be happening. I did some OT and when I came home I vegged out looking at old tool catalogs. I didn't go to the shop until after 1000. And when I got there I moved over into the slow lane there too.

got it tighter
I fussed some more with this and got it tighter than what the pic shows. If I push the  right piece into the left one, the miter is almost seamless. I would accept that for a this being left natural. The hard part with this so far has been getting the toe of the miter on both pieces. The quirk is in the way and I had to guess at where it was.

clamping helper
I did a little searching on the miter template for how to use it and came up dry. Found lots of pictures on it but none on how to clamp it in a vise. Every situation I saw of it's use was with one hand on the template and the other working the chisel. I came up with this to clamp the jig in the vise with the stock and have two hands free to trim the miter. Step one was sawing a 45° on both ends.

much better on square
This one is pretty good and the other was a couple frog hairs off. This was something I thought I was pretty good at and I took it for granted I was sawing square but wasn't. I am going back to marking a vertical square line to guide me like I did on these two saw cuts.

smoothed up the 45's

it's a filler
The filler is about 1/16" wider than the bottom ledge it is sitting on. And it is just shy of being flush with the ends. The jig has the registration faces for trimming and the filler is for clamping, not a bed for the chisel.

2 shallow rabbets needed
I don't need or want the filler moving as I clamp this in the vise. I made two shallow rabbets to lock this in place.

done
This is working better than I hoped for. It is rock steady here even with me moving it around in circles. It did fall out when I tilted it but not when I moved it forward and backwards.

it works
Now I just have to make sure that I keep the two of there together.

solid bearing
This provides equal bearing on both of the 45° legs. The vise won't be able to apply unequal pressure on one leg over the other. That could distort the template and make it toast.

plane body is done
I'm happy with the look of this. I don't think that it is too shiny which I thought it might be.

scraped the frog seat
I used the same chisel to scrape the frog seat clean of paint again. I also used the chisel on the top of the sides where I got some paint.

the frog and the yoke are next
The humidity was supposed to ratchet up quite a few notches today so I'm holding off on painting these two. As I'm writing this I am thinking that I should have at least cleaned them and put the primer coat on.

so I can spray the primer on all over
I'll swap out this brass rod with a piece of #14 bare wire. I have a few them in my electrical goodie bag that I keep to use as grounding pig tails.

sawing the shelves to width
The paint on the shelves is dry but they feel clammy if that makes any sense. They wouldn't slide easily, if at all, on the tablesaw. It wouldn't be safe if it jammed and turned into the blade and it kicked back. The two strips will act as sled and let push the shelves past the saw blade.

lost both of them
I thought the front would have still lined up but it didn't happen sports fans. I will have to fill all eight of them in and chop new ones.

the old hole filler
This is plywood and filling in the holes and making new ones fairly close to the repairs doesn't sound good. Instead of filling in two small holes I decided to inlay a 1/4" thick piece of oak on the edge.

front ledger is going to be a problem
This is plywood (did I write this already?) and hand chopping a rabbet this long and over an inch wide is wow, not happening. I would have done it in solid wood though. I can't get a rabbet plane in here so I'll be using a electric router on this.

the pine is higher then the ledger and the router will ride on it
clearance for the router
I set the 1/4" inlay strip onto of the pine and set the router on that. I dropped the router bit until it touched the shelf - depth for the inlay strip set. I moved the pine over close to the edge and started routing for the inlay. I kept moving the pine to the left until the router fence hit the the edge of the shelf and made the last pass.

chopped and the ends square and the fit is good
I am flush with the bottom of the shelf and the edge. Other than the mountain of wood dust all over the shop, this worked out well.

glued and cooking
I read a blog post (I can't remember who) about a painted shelf, latex paint, and it not being quite dry. The author was concerned about the latex paint sticking to whatever was placed on it (a problem with latex paint). He had the same feeling with the paint I'm having. He put two coats of water based poly on the shelf and a year later he said no problems with anything sticking. I think I will try that on the bookcase interior and the shelves. On past painted clock projects I had applied shellac over the paint but that was to make it easier to dust them off.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Florence Nightingale Graham?
answer - beauty entrepreneur Elizabeth Arden

MAKING THINGS WORK:.........

Sat, 06/17/2017 - 12:36am
.....TALES FROM A CABINETMAKER'S LIFE is a small, short book by Nancy Hiller. I bought the book after reading Nick Offerman's write up on it here.  His blurb on it is about halfway down the blog post. It is not a very big book nor is it overly long at about 140 pages or so. I had gotten the book because of Offerman's write up and when I first saw it I was bit disappointed in it. I think I was expecting a tome because of all of the things Offerman said the book was.



But I don't judge a book by it's cover nor by how thick it is. I started by reading the Acknowledgement which is something that I do with the rarity of seeing Halley's comet. She grabbed my interest there and it never wavered even when I finished reading the book. In fact when I was done, I read the write up on the front and back dust cover. I was still hungry and I wanted to read more of whatever she had to write.



The book to me was part auto biographical with a bit of ethics and philosophy interspersed throughout the book. It is not a 140 plus pages of why I am a cabinetmaker and how I survived doing it for so long. I bonded with her after reading the last sentence on page one. She expressed a frustration exactly the way I would have had I been in the same situation. I knew then that this wasn't going to be a staid book written by a prim and proper lady. (kind of got that idea on page 1)



The book was everything that Nick Offerman said it was. No disappointments other than me wishing it was longer. She jumps around a bit going back and forth in time but it flows smoothly in spite of that. She wove a good story and I never felt like a door was abruptly shut in my face.



At first I thought that she was English but she is an american who lived in England for quite a few years. It is there that she got training as a cabinetmaker and worked in a couple of English woodworking shops. What struck me about these years was her perseverance. Things were 2 rungs below poverty but she stuck with it in spite of the low pay and what I would consider god awful living spaces. And inbetween she managed to get a Masters Degree.




worth reading
The book has a lot of ups and down but since 1995, Nancy has been supporting herself as a cabinetmaker. She tells one story about someone wanting a roll top desk she made and him blowing her off after he found out what the price was. I think this is the biggest obstacle cabinetmakers face - the ignorance that the majority of people have about making a living from woodworking.



I tried it on a very small scale and stopped. My first commission I ate. It was a bookcase and the person who commissioned it refused to buy it even though we had agreed on the price before hand. His response was, "...I can buy a cheaper bookcase at Walmart...."

My first mistake was not getting a 1/3 of the money up front and another 1/3 when half way done. I am not a business oriented person in this respect. I could empathize with Nancy on this.



One of my favorite comedians is Ron White who does a bit called you can't fix stupid. I'll add to that, that it is impossible to fix ignorant either. How do you explain to someone whose eyes see nothing by $$$$ the difference between hand tool joinery and machine made joinery?



Nancy has written two other books that I am going to buy too if I can. If you are inclined to buy a book based on Nick Offerman's opinion (an author, actor, fairly well known guy, and a woodworking business owner) and me (a nobody who is a wanna be cabinetmaker who also outputs daily keyboard diarrhea), I don't think you'll regret it.



accidental woodworking



trivia corner
What are you if you are glabrous?
answer - hairless

painting day....

Fri, 06/16/2017 - 1:08am
Today was the kind of day I would like to have year round. Low 70's, clear skies with a few fluffy clouds, and slight breeze blowing. And the humidity was low too. Of course this about to all go south, literally. Clouds and rain starting tonight with increasing humidity. So today was the day to get what painting done I could.


#2 plane body
I lightly sanded the body with 400 grit sandpaper and wiped it down with the rag I used to clean the brush. I bought the artist brushes mostly because I wanted a fine brush that wouldn't leave brush marks. Being cheap helped too.


I'm glad I waited another day
The whole interior felt dry to the touch everywhere. This is the final coat and I am not putting on another one. This makes 4 coats to get adequate coverage - 1 primer and 3 top coats.

I got distracted
Myles was awake and babbling away he was so excited about the first 3 tools for his toolchest. I had come upstairs to clean the paint brush and I got delayed a bit getting back to the shop talking to him.

this sucks
Two primer coats and one top coat and I still can see the the gray primer.  I am sticking with my original plan for having the shelf behind the frame. That was driven by me not liking the look of the molded edge on the bookshelf against the beaded edge of the frame. The two didn't compliment each other.

finessed the joint a wee bit more
I got the flats looking good but the miter is still too gappy for my liking. This will be painted and I could probably get away with it but most of my work is left natural. In a natural state this is an eyesore.

the bead sizes are slightly off
I don't think the size difference is causing the miters from not closing up. There looks to be a bit of crap at the toe of the left miter doing that.

the bottom of the toe is the problem
I think this is causing the miters from fully seating.

back cutting
I trimmed the back of the miter and the bottom like the tails on dovetails.

a little difference
My butchering job trying to freehand trim the left half of the miter is showing. The toe on it is chewed up and this is the best it is going to get. I did learn some things here that will help when I do the practice ones and finally the real one.

butt joint
The butt joint is perfect. Tight and seamless after I trimmed the right one on the shooting board at 90°. I'll have to pay special attention to the miter on the frame side part that I don't chew up the toe.

This was it as Myles wanted to discuss what type of toolbox or toolchest I am going to make for him. The normal stuff, what type of wood, what will be stowed in it, the joinery options, etc etc etc.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a hallux?
answer - a person's big toe

the H&H broke.......

Thu, 06/15/2017 - 12:57am
It was 20 degrees cooler and a whole lot drier today. The average temps for this time of the year are daytime in upper 70's and the night in the middle 50's. It was a nice day and a drier feeling shop when I got home tonight. But half of the H&H hasn't gone very far away. The temps are forecasted to be seasonable but the humidity starts getting high again on friday. This is New England and I'm a doubter so I'll wait to see what unfolds.

Myles' first tool
This is a Preston spokeshave I got off of Jim Bode tools for $39. It outclasses my Stanley spokeshaves by a wide margin. The first project for Myles will be making a tool box (chest) for his tools.


my just rehabbed #3
I didn't realize it but I can give this plane to Myles too as this is a duplicate.

I will donate a #4 to the tool chest too
I just thought of this: I have a surplus on marking gauges too. I think his kit should have at a minimum is 2 marking gauges and 1 mortise gauge. It looks like I have a pretty good start on his kit.

this is pretty clean
With the exception of bit a rust on the adjuster knob, I couldn't find any other spots with rust on it. The iron in this spokeshave is way too big for the one in the Preston chamfer shave. I think the one I bought will fit this one so Myles will have a back up. This iron has been sharpened by hand, I can tell by the rounded bevel.


road test was more than satisfactory
 This shave doesn't have any lateral adjustment ability at all.  The iron is parallel to the mouth and the only adjustment you can make is for a thick or thin shaving. I'm impressed with it after just this one test run. It has a higher center of gravity then the Stanley 151 and bit more mass and heft.

I thought of this clamping today
I got the piece secured in the vise leaving my two hands free to trim the miter. This setup doesn't give me a warm and fuzzy. I don't like putting a board along the gauge to clamp it in the vise (which has to be wider than top or flat horizontal piece). I am worried about the board possibly warping or throwing the gauge off of 45.

2" chisel
This was the only chisel that was big enough to span the gauge that was sharp. This worked so much better now that is was secured and not moving. I got the miter on this side piece trimmed with just a few swipes.

this much better looking
practice miter for another way
I wouldn't be able to miter these two at 45° and have them come out even. I marked the width of each other on the other piece. I set two bevel gauges to the angle which ran from the outside corner to the front edge at the pencil line, one for each piece. I knifed the line and sawed the two of them out.


not square
I sawed on the line and then off at angle into the waste side by a big margin. Not on purpose - still not sawing square vertically.

other piece is off square too but not as bad
the angle is good
This would work as an alternative but I have to work on sawing the angles square to the face.


planed the angles square
I took my time and planed the outside edge that was high on both pieces. I wanted the edges square to the face without changing the angle. I was able to do that because I checked them against the bevel gauges.

better but it still needs a bit of finessing
This will work but it will be the back up because I don't like miters. I had to satisfy my curiosity that I could do this.

I like this better

This is what I am planning on going with. I will cut out a couple of pieces the same size and practice making the left and right side before I do the bookcase frame.


top molding
The top will overhang the bookcase on three sides and I'll place a molding underneath the overhang. First thought was a cove but this one is too small.


second choice
I like this look but I don't think it goes with the beaded detail. I want something like a larger cove cornice molding and I may have to buy that. I don't have any cornice molding planes in my till or any H&R's large enough.


rethinking the shelves
Thinking of keeping the shelves the full width and notching the ends to fit past the side frame. Nothing carved in stone yet, just in the musing aloud stages.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is quinsy?
answer - inflammation of the throat




day 2 of H&H misery.......

Wed, 06/14/2017 - 1:10am
I couldn't play the radio in the shop tonight because Myles was taking a nap. His crib is directly over my workbench so I couldn't do any banging or hollering neither. I wanted to listen to the radio to see if we broke the temperature today but I don't know if we did. I checked on line for TF Green airport where the official temperature is taken but they had nothing. Maybe tomorrow I'll be able to find something out. When I got home today the temp was 95.8°F (35.4°C) which is more than one degree over yesterday's temp.

a day later
The heat and humidity was a notch or two higher today. The basement has a damp feel to it but it is over ten degrees cooler than the upstairs is. The interior of the bookcase looks better and the initial feel felt good too. No clammy or damp feeling on the sides and the bottom.

this feels dry to the touch
The back plywood doesn't feel the same as the sides do. It is dry but it feels like it is a few percentage points from 100% dry. This H&H is supposed to break tonight around midnight with it being much drier tomorrow. I will wait until then to put the final coat on the interior.

#2 plane looks good
I'll wait on this too before painting on the final coat. It's been around for over 100 years so another day isn't going to stop the sun from rising.

oops
I sanded down the two shelves with 220 in preparation for putting the top coat on them tomorrow. I wanted to check my alignment of the pin sockets and saw this. The pin sockets line up dead nuts so I got that right.


not what I want
The shelves are or would be even with the applied frame. I want the shelf to be behind the frame. Fixing this mind fart is easy and it will only take one rip cut. However, my pin sockets will be toast and out of position then. I will have to fill in the ones I chopped and make new ones. I'll do that after I get the frame on and the shelf to the correct width.

sawing is quiet work
 I got the frame parts cut to rough length and slightly oversized.

the plan for the frame
The bottom piece is the thinnest but it will be mostly covered by the base. It is there chiefly to cover the bottom plywood edge.


change one on the frame
I was going to run the sides down to the bottom and put the bottom piece of the frame inbetween the sides to hide the end grain ends. Because of the bead, I can't do that now. I would have to thin the bottom piece and then I would have a gap when I install the base.


the fix

I will run the bottom frame piece side to side and butt the bottom of the side pieces on top of it. The base will cover most of it with about an 1/8" showing so most of the end grain will be hidden.

out of sequence pic
I ran a bead on the sides and top frame parts. I had the iron set too deep but I did all three parts with it set that way. I didn't want to bang on the plane and wake Myles up. In spite of the heavy shavings the bead came out good on all 3.

first attempt upcoming
I am going to try and miter the top of the frame so that the bead runs around both corners. I already got the miters marked wrong but that is ok for now.

made some practice pieces
 I gauged on line on the thinner piece for where the wider one will butt into it.

I'll get to try my miter trimming gauge
rough sawn miter on the wider piece
This miter is the easier one to do. I could probably put this on my shooting board and finesse the angle.

I feel like I have no thumbs
I can't visualize how to clamp the mitering gauge to the stock. I was able to hold the gauge and trim this miter but it was awkward and difficult to hold securely.

started trimming the flat and stopped
this should be first
Doing the miter first I think is the best way to proceed. As you trim the miter it is hard to not run into the bottom of the miter and leave chisel marks. These could be visible afterwards. Cleaning up the flat last should remove them.

way out of square
I should have run the gauge line on all three sides. Trimming it flush took a few extra minutes.

lots of gaps
The miter on the thin piece is iffy and on the wider piece it is pretty good. The end on the wider piece was hand sawn and it's rough so that is interfering some with the fit too. Not good but for my first attempt I'm happy with it. I know where I have to improve and where I think I did ok.

cleaned up the flats with a chisel
 I closed up some of the gap and it would probably be a lot better if I planed the end grain end on the wide piece. This would probably be ok for a paint job but not if I was leaving it natural. The miter stills needs a whole lot of TLC.

miter on the thin piece
This miter is toast. It has a hump and it is off 45°. Holding the mitering gauge on this piece was not happening. Very hard for me to do precise chisel work with one hand no matter how sharp the chisel it.

the thick piece miter is almost perfect
a one inch chisel is too small

It is barely large enough to register on the top and side edges of the miter gauge. I will have to sharpen up my 1 1/2" chisel. That is more than big enough to use on this in a sweeping motion while maintaining contact with the two miter gauge edges.

it works
The miter gauge is secured and it isn't moving. Still awkward because I have to hold the gauge with one hand and work the chisel with the other one. What I want is to be able to hold the stock and the gauge in the vise and have both hands free to trim the miter.


stopped here
I tried to correct the miter by eye and made it worse. Not disheartened by this at all. I learned a lot but I still have a couple of steps to figure out. As long as the others to come are better and I'm making progress, I can't complain.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the longest lived organism on the earth?
answer - the bristlecone pine tree of the American southwest, one of them is 5,067 years old

hot, humid, and yucky........

Tue, 06/13/2017 - 1:04am
When I was in the shop tonight I heard the official temperature for the day in RI at 1615. It was 94°F (34.4°C) and this lovely weather is not going to break until wednesday (supposedly). This weather is miserable and I feel sorry for the tradesmen that have to work in it. Work was just bearable today and the AC struggled to keep the office cool. It was nicer out in the hallway then it was at my cubicle and I spent a lot of time on walkabout going from one end of the hallway to the other. We usually don't get this heat and humidity here until july. I wonder what that month is going to be like?

I finished this sunday night
Myles was taking a nap still so I came back to the shop and planed the painted plywood edges. I wasn't going to do it all, I just wanted to get a feel for how difficult it would be to plane. I did the top and 1/2 way down one long edge in a few minutes. From there I kept on going because I couldn't leave it partially done.

After I got the four edges planed I glued on the two long strips. I thought that would be it for tonight and come monday I would glue on the top and bottom ones. Instead 2 hours later (Myles was asleep for the night) I went back to the shop and glued on the top and bottom pieces. I did that right before I hit the bunky to do my eyelid light leak test.

Tonight when I got to the shop the plan was to paint the final coat of white on the interior of the bookcase and prime the back raw spots. Part of this didn't happen as planned.


used cauls on the bottom
I didn't want to break out any more clamps so I used cauls. The increase the clamping force spread so I didn't need as many clamps.

no painting here tonight
I had the inside facing down to the bench and when I flipped it over it didn't feel right. The inside was clammy feeling and not damp but it felt wet. The paint was dry but it didn't feel right. The heat and humidity we are having now is not working to my advantage here. I will leave the bookcase facing up tonight and see what it feels like tomorrow.

I looked at the #2 plane but I didn't paint it again. The instructions say to wait 24 hours between coats and longer if there is high humidity. I will give it one more day and I'll put on the third coat tomorrow.

quiet work
Myles was still taking a nap when I got home tonight from work. I laid out the position of shelf pins and chopped them out. Myles woke up as soon as I got done with the layout. This was another thing I was going to wait until tomorrow to do also.

Chopping plywood is a treat. When I marked the depth I tried to lay out the depth so it was at the top of a veneer. I like to lock the pins in place this way to keep the shelf from moving. With sharp chisels it wasn't that difficult. The only sticking part was chopping through the cross plies cleanly.


one down and one to go
second round
The first ones I chopped out entirely with chisels and the depth was done with my small hand router. On this one I sawed the walls as much as I could staying shy of the bottom and top ends. Most of the walls for #2 came out a bit cleaner then #1 did.

flushing the sheetrock mud
The is sponge isn't soaking wet nor is it dry. I got it wet and wrung it out but I didn't go with my Charlie Atlas grip on it. It is damp-ish and this is what I used to 'sand' the joint compound.

the after
My father taught me this trick and it did take me a while to master it. Getting the correct level of wet in the sponge was the hardest part. After the wet getting a feeling for a light touch with the sponge took the longest to master. But it leaves the mud dead nuts flush and smooth. Once the paint goes over it, it is almost impossible to find where it was used.

put another coat of primer on the shelves, top, bottom and sides
primer coat on the raw
I also got another coat on the sides. I didn't bother with the top and bottom because the top is getting a pine board for the 'top' and the bottom will be hidden. I did prime coat the sides again. Maybe I'll be able to get one coat coverage then with the top coat of paint.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is an olm?
answer - a cave dwelling aquatic salamander found only in Europe

meet Myles......

Mon, 06/12/2017 - 1:10am
Meet Myles, my grandson who turned 6 months old today. Along with the 6 month birthday he also sprouted his first two teeth. Which explains why everything he picks up ends up in his mouth. I think Paul Sellers said he had his son Joseph using a spokeshave at age 5. That gives me 4 1/2 years to get Myles's kit assembled.


I see you
Amanda (his Mom) says that he recognizes a camera and when his picture is being taken.


this is very tasty
The toy he is trying to digest is one that belonged to his father 30 years ago. His mother saved it for just this purpose.

the tedious phase commences
I found a can of latex primer and I'll use it just because if I need to, I  can get two coats of it on today. The back of the bookcase will be visible from where my wife intends to put it so I'll be painting the back too.

I missed drilling two holes
I missed the both of them on this side. This one here and up at the opposite top corner.

the frame stock
The longer thinner piece of stock will be the base and the wider one will be cut up to make the frame. I don't like open box looking bookcases so I'll be doing some kind of edge treatment rather then leaving it square edged.

got lucky
I didn't blow out straight thru the side. That is what I usually do on at least one of these when I drill them without a stop.

it's dry
This isn't as pebbled looking now that it has dried. Judging how this coat looks I would guess I will be putting on at least 2 more. The can says to allow 24 hours or longer if there is high humidity which we have today. The temp at 1600 is 90°F and humidity is about 1000%.

second coat on
The holiday I had on this cheek is nowhere to be seen.

2nd coat definitely looks better
primer on the entire bookcase
I didn't prime the front plywood edges. Those will be covered with the frame so it isn't necessary to paint them.

making one edge flat, square and straight
I ripped out the four pieces for the front frame on the tablesaw. I repeated this dance step after each rip.

the frame (oversized)
I will cut and fit each piece individually when it's time to do that.

front ledger for the shelves
bottom side of the shelf
The top is proud of the other side. After the glue has set up on this I'll plane it flush.

final rabbet work
I whacked the rabbets out with two passes on the tablesaw. The bullnose plane was used to smooth and square up the rabbets
first one glued up and cooking away
.
side frame
Originally I had made this 1 9/16" wide and I knocked that back to 1 3/16". The wider width stuck out into the bookcase too far. Any book behind it would be hidden almost completely. This compromise works - it sticks out less than quarter of an inch and it is still wide enough to mold a bead on it.

looks thin
I would rather have this at 1 9/16" but I don't want to risk hiding any books behind it.

first top coat
This is going to take at least one more coat to cover. With my luck, it will take 3. The interior of the bookcase is white along with the shelves.

made a big mistake
I made the mistake of asking my wife want color she wanted the bookcase painted. I showed her these 3 cans and asked her to pick a color. Her immediate reply was "...don't I have more cans?....". Dodged it as she picked one of these without the color dab on top for the bookcase. That color is called Tsunami Sky.

second coat
There is no such thing as one coat paint coverage. It is all pure BS and unless you trowel it on a 1/4" thick, you are putting on at least two or more coats. I'm lucky here that I get to put on a primer coat and what will be 3 top coats.

flushing the front
figured my reveal just right
I had enough of the solid pine to mold this profile on the edge.

not done yet
After I molded the top edge, I put a small round over on the front bottom edge. I knocked the arris off the back bottom edge too. That way as you change shelf positions, there is nothing hard and sharp there to grab.

primer coat today, top coat tomorrow
I had to cover them
If my wife had not shown me where this bookcase was going, I wouldn't be fretting about this. I don't like the look of the plywood edges even though they are painted. I'm not sure if I can glue over paint so I'll plane the paint off first. I found some thin pine strips long enough for the sides and I had to cut two for the top and bottom.



had to cut one down
I left one wider than the rest and that one will go at the bottom. I used the slitting gauge to cut it to the same width as the others.

bottom fat one and the thin one for the top
cut and fitted
I wasn't going to do this today but Myles was napping so I couldn't make goofy faces with him so I did this. I will glue these on and put a primer coat on this tomorrow. I also filled in the nail and staple holes with joint compound.

very easy to cut and fit
Put the square on the line and score it a few times with the marking knife. Snap it off and check the fit. Done. Move on to the next one.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Robert Abplanalp?
answer - the inventor of the aerosol valve in 1949

bookcase carcass........

Sun, 06/11/2017 - 2:47am
My wife thinks that I have no patience for anything but she is wrong. For some things I have none but others I have more than a saint. It's a tough call if I'll have the patience to wait until Miles gets old enough to go in the shop or if I'll explode first. I've already had a suggestion to build him a workbench which will be very hard to resist doing. It's a good thing I don't have any stock to make him one (I checked) because not much else would get done.

it worked
I scraped the primer off the frog seats with a chisel (a dull one). They look to me just like they did before I sprayed primer on them. I will do this dance step when I paint the black enamel on. I won't worry so much about getting paint on the places it shouldn't be.

looks awful and good at the same time
I don't think the shine is that bad but I'll wait until I got the final coat on. This first coat doesn't look smooth but maybe it'll settle down as it dries. Here it looks like I painted over a lot of pebbles but that could be the rough texture of the iron. Either way this goes, it will need a second coat regardless.

first of many dry fit ups
The carcass is square with the diagonals reading 57 5/16 both ways. I am doing this first dry fit to mark the sides and how much I'll have to trim off the sides.

I am going to need two thinking caps here
The first mark closest to the back of the rabbet is where the plywood back ended. The second mark is where the bottom is. If I have thought this through correctly, I have to trim off the distance between the two lines minus the space between the first line and the rabbet. If I'm wrong, I'll try again and I'll just lose a fraction of an inch in the height if I am.

marked and ready to chop
At first I tried to find some way to cut this on the tablesaw but I shitcanned that idea. I am removing 3/16" which is basically nothing and it will be relatively quick and easy to do with hand tools. I knifed the line on both sides and chopped it out next.

my grungy looking 073
After I chopped the waste away I planed to the knife lines and squared the rabbet up again.

1/2 of the waste is gone
I put the chisel in the knife line at at an angle towards the end and gave it a whack. I than planed the remaining waste square and to the knife line with the shoulder plane.

still have a gap
I erred on the side of caution when I made the first trimming and it looks like I need to do it again. I have about a 1/16th more to trim off the sides.

the top is fitting good

sides are tight fitting too
Once I get the bottom fitting as good as the other sides, I will have a solid bookcase that shouldn't rack at all. If I made this any bookcase any taller I would have put a fixed shelf in the middle area.

second round of trimming done
When I did this round I clamped the two sides together and did all the chiseling and planing like it was one board. I should have done it this way for round one too.

bottom fitting now as good as the other sides

one last trimming to do
I trimmed the overhang on sides last. I wasn't going to do it now but it proved to be a PITA trying to work around it on the last dry fit. I marked them then sawed and planed them to the line.

last dry fir
Both of them measure 57 1/8 now and important thing is that they are equal. Now the clamps on the long sides are applying pressure on the top and bottom equally. Gluing the carcass together is in the on deck circle.

glue and nailing the sides together with 2" finish nails
staples for the plywood back
I am not a fan of staples. They are can be incredibly frustrating to remove which is the biggest thorn in the side I have with them. However, comma, back slash, double ditto marks, they are a good choice for plywood backs. They pull the back down tight and the U shape of the staple makes a stronger grip on the plywood then nails do.

cooking away until tomorrow
The nails in the sides were just to hold the carcass in place while I got the clamps on. I got the plywood back on and checked the square one last time and stapled it off. The plywood back will keep it square and I am hoping I don't go off into La-La land with the clamping pressure.

1/2 way through it
I had seen that the Lost Art Press was selling this but I shied away from it. I wasn't interested in reading about what a cabinetmaker does while waiting for commissions to come her way. I got it after I read Nick Offerman's blurb on it to use Nancy's words. Because of Nick's write up I bought the book and put the other 3 books aside I'm reading so I can finish this one. I got half way through it last night and I should have it read cover to cover by sunday night. I'll give my keyboard diarrhea of my thoughts on it then.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a doodlebug?
answer - the larva of the ant lion

much joy in Mudville........

Sat, 06/10/2017 - 1:11am
The house is full of people again. My grandson, the son-in-law, and the two girls are all here for the first time in very long time. There is nothing in this world that will make me blather like an idiot other than my 6 month old grandson. What a treat to finally see him and get to hold him. A wee bit of trepidation there as it has been a bazillion years since I've held a baby.

Needless to say, I didn't get much shop time. I had to decompress a little and then I shut the lights out to go watch him.

I had checked on the camera status again at lunchtime and Amazon had 7 Red TG-5s for sale. I think it's going to be a wait and see for me.  Amazon hasn't taken the money for the camera yet so I'll be checking my bank as my indication the camera is on it's way to me.



frog is done
It was hard to capture a shot of the frog in reflection. The bottom of the frog has just been sanded and the area above the round cutouts got the filing action. Most of the filing action was between the arches and the bottom disc of the lateral adjust.

port side view
This is a moot point as the iron/chipbreaker/lever cap will hide 100% of this. To that end I am leaving the frog as it is here.

diagonals match
I still have lows above the arches but solid contact across the whole bottom of the frog and the top. There is no light to be seen under the ruler at those points.

too small or too big
The slot is too big (wide) and the frog is too small (width too) for this jig. If I put one wing on one side the opposite wing on the frog is barely on the other side of the jig. This drove a lot of leaving the frog as is. I don't want to make another one of these jigs just for this plane as I don't anticipate doing a rehab of another #2.

I had to make a pit stop at Wally World to get a 9V battery for the smoke detector. While I was there I picked up a few other things but I forgot to get regular Coke for the son-in-law. I picked up some paint and artist brushes though.

no semi-gloss
If I think this is too shiny I will buy the quart can of semi-gloss. The choices were this and flat black in this size can.

cheap bag artist brushes
These are for oil or water colors. I got them because they are cheap and small. If I forget to clean them I'm out only a handful of pennies. This bag was less then $5.

just noticed this holiday
I don't think that I missed this but it sticks out like shiny red sore thumb. I hit it again with primer and if that doesn't work I will have to investigate this further. I may have to sand this spot back to bare metal and start over.


this is next
This will get stripped and painted just like the #2. I haven't come across another one of these in my web searches but there are a lot of Preston spokeshaves out there. I have been looking at them to determine what parts are painted and which are left shiny and bare. I need to get a better idea on this subject.

my current iron
I haven't had any luck with finding a replacement for this. Ray Iles has a site called Old Tools and he sells two replacement Preston spokeshave irons. One is for a lateral adjust and the other for a non lateral adjust. The cutouts look the same as my iron but the tapers on the sides are much steeper and larger. I never got a reply from them on whether or not the non lateral adjust iron would fit my Preston but I ordered one anyways. It if fits and it works I'm golden. If not I'll have to buy a Preston spokeshave to fit it.

5 1/2 takes a 2 1/4" wide iron
I bought a spare iron for the 5 1/2 from Old Tools along with the spokeshave iron. With S/H it came to less than $50 but I don't know what the international currency exchange fee is. Old Tools has replacement Stanley irons for the #3 plane up to the #8 along with block plane irons, plus lots of others too. I couldn't find a thickness listed for this iron so I'll have to wait and be surprised when I get it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
US regulations state what percentage of peanuts must be in peanut butter?
answer - 90%


picked the wrong color.......

Fri, 06/09/2017 - 12:52am
Today at lunchtime I checked Amazon to see if the TG-5 was finally being sold. I should've, could've, would've but I didn't pick the right color. They offer the TG-5 in red and black and I picked black. The red one is being sold and they had 2 left in stock as of 1205 today. At least one of them is being sold so maybe the black one will be batting next soon.

not black anymore
This was as black as the edge of space yesterday and tonight it's dry and grayish. This isn't a big deal because the finish coat will be black enamel. I am going to paint that on and not spray paint it.

good coverage
The first coat coverage was very good. All the nooks and crannies made by the front cross brace and the front and back of the frog bed have 100% coverage. I sprayed on the second coat the same way I did the first one.

it's wet and it's black
It's wet but I can see it drying to the grayish color already. Now I have to find a small can of semi-gloss black enamel.

filed the frog
Filing a frog as little as a couple of months ago is something I would not have done let alone even let a thought like that enter the brain bucket. There was a bulge at the far end of the frog that was throwing the square off. I filed a little and checked my progress with a square. It took about ten minutes of of this before I got the bottom edge square. I didn't have to file the entire edge to get to square.

square from both sides
I think that this was necessary to do. I use the bottom edge of the frog to set it parallel to the mouth and establish a reference point to work from.


low spot by my finger

another low spot by my finger here too
After finding these two low spots I find another hiccup. Just to the right of the depression that the iron/chipbreaker screw sits in, is high. I have a belly there and that will screw up the iron laying flat on the frog. The low spots aren't a problem per se and all I really want to do is have the iron touch at the bottom and at the top on either side of the lateral adjust.

this side touches top and bottom
There is a low spot about the middle but not a problem. Checking the other side this way showed the hump in the middle. After looking at this I think that if I remove the hump, I will get my four bearing points for the iron to rest on.

I filed it
There was no way I was going to sand that hump away before I was eligible for social security. Even if I used 40 grit sandpaper. Doing this one took a wee bit longer than squaring the bottom. I was a lot more cautious doing this and I really think I should get a machinist's vise. Doing this kind of work in the woodworking vise works but it doesn't give me a warm and fuzzy. For that matter, a machinist's vise might not give me a warm and fuzzy neither. Can we say a cheap Harbor Freight vise to whet my appetite on?

a couple of months later
To say that autosol has impressed me would be an understatement of titanic proportions. I think it is close to 3 months since I applied it and it still looks damn good. Regular readers know that I do like shiny and it doesn't have to be brass.  I haven't applied anymore and I haven't wiped the plane down with a rag neither. This is what it looks like after everyday shop use.

the sole
I did not expect this to be looking this good for so long. I thought it would be shiny for a week and then it would slowly go dull and be grungy looking.

thanx for the tip Bob
I'll be going back and applying this to all of my planes. My record 073 has always looked like crap and maybe this will work it's wonderment on that. I read a blog about this being used on the blades of combination squares too. I'm going to try it on that and the body too. If it is metal, it's getting introduced to AUTOSOL.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a gimcrack?
answer - a showy object that has little or no value

not made like they used to be........

Thu, 06/08/2017 - 12:36am
I ordered some replacement parts for my hand held vise. A 1/4-20 bolt and a new wing nut and I was a bit disappointed in them.  They sure don't make them like they did when this vise was new. I don't have an age for it but I guess around the turn of the 1900's and maybe even earlier. I only have one old woodworking tool catalog from the 1880's but I couldn't find one of these in it.

my vise and it's parts
I've taken an interest in these and I've been reading the write ups on all the ones I'm coming across. The biggest problem I am reading about these is the metal tab between the jaws is weak or broken.

funny looking washer
When I first got this I thought that the bolt or maybe the wing nut had caused this. After taking it apart and eyeballing it, I don't think that is the case anymore. I think that this is a special purpose washer. But it is also a washer that I haven't seen before.

wing nut side
This is where the bolt exits this jaw and the lip on the inside of the washer is almost a perfect fit for this hole. That keeps the washer centered over the hole and provides a constant bearing surface for the wing nut.

back jaw's hole
The square 'mortise' keeps the bolt from spinning and allows it to be tightened and loosened.

the old bolt
Bent up a bit and the threads are rounded but it still works. The wing nut still spins freely up and down the threads so it is still serviceable. But it isn't pretty looking anymore.

from Blacksmith Bolt & Rivet
When I order spare parts I usually order more than what I need. You never know when one of the extras may be needed somewhere else. I didn't see the washer I have on the Blacksmith bolt site.

new on the left and old on the right
There is a noticeable size difference that is obvious. I had expected the bolts to look alike a lot closer than this. Besides the threaded parts being different sizes, the heads are smaller too.

wing nuts
I would be hard pressed to exert the same amount of force on both these wings nuts without a bit of pain. The new one on the bottom missed taking it's vitamins for more than one day. I'll be keeping the older one as it has much larger wings to tighten down with.

found a chipbreaker
Went looking for something else and found this. Forgot what I was looking for but this will do. Most of the chipbreakers I have now for the 4 1/2 and the #7  are all stamped 1867. This one doesn't have a date on it and I'm hoping that I can use this and I won't have to run the adjuster 1/2 way out before moving the iron.

not Damascus steel
This is the other half of the chipbreaker iron set up. All the swirly looking stuff is pits caused by rust. This iron is useless for planing or anything else to do with making shavings with it. I'll hang on to it just in case I can do something else with it.

primer coat first
I am going to spray the primer coat on this mostly to stop rust blooms from forming. But before I spray the first coat on I have get rid of the few that I have. The rust blooms I have here are all where castings are meeting at 90°.

my steel wire brushes
These are basically useless and especially so with the 3 that have flattened bristles. I managed to remove the blooms I had with the one brush with mostly straight bristles and folded up sandpaper.


clean before painting
Painting metal isn't much different from painting wood. The better you prep either one, the better your results will be. This has been stripped, sanded, and the rust blooms taken care of. The final step was to wash and scrub the body with acetone. Once this dried I masked off the areas I don't want paint on. I didn't do the frog seat because I will scrap that area clean after the primer coats.

my fancy spray booth
I sprayed from head on horizontally from the back and front first to get the small raised 'walls'. Then I did the rest of the interior. I'll do a second coat tomorrow and this will be ready for the finish coat. I forgot to put the screws and the threaded studs in but maybe I'll remember them for the second coat. I got a bonus with the primer being black. My other rattle can of primer is gray.

this isn't ready yet
I just noticed in this pic that the bottom of the frog isn't square to the sides. It tapers from the low on the right to the high on the left.  The frog is stripped and ready for primer but I'll have to address the out of squareness now along with the finishing of the face.

I haven't finished sanding and smoothing the face first
This is what I want to complete first before I do any painting at all.

I didn't do anything with the bookcase and I probably won't until the weekend. I only have about an hour each weekday night and I don't want to run into a snag that will involve any length of time to resolve. I will pick up the bookcase again this weekend.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Fred Ott?
answer - Thomas Edison filmed him sneezing in the first copyrighted film in history


still prepping.......

Wed, 06/07/2017 - 1:23am
The last time I made something this big that needed a plywood back I was still in the navy. The woodshop there had 5 tablesaws, 3 set up for crosscuts, one for ripping, and the last one for miters using a sled. The largest crosscut saw had a huge fence on it but I don't remember the measurement but it would crosscut more than 48 inches - way past the center of a 4x8 sheet of plywood. It was on this tablesaw that I was able to saw almost any sized back panel to length and width.

Since I knew the back was sawn square, I used that to square up the carcass. I nailed one corner together and put the plywood back on and clamped it to draw up the sides and top/bottom tight. I nailed the back into the carcass and there was much joy to behold. I plan on doing the same for this bookcase except I won't have the advantage of using the Navy woodshop saw.

kitchen spice and book shelf
According to the date on the drawer backs I finished this in January of this year. This is a good spot for it - away from the heat of the stove but still easy to get to. I couldn't get all my favorite cookbooks on it but what is there isn't causing any sagging at all. The bookshelf is 3/4" thick and the rest of the spice rack is 9/16".

the paper towel holder
Missed this location big time. I thought it was going to the right of the spice rack but I was so wrong on that. Doesn't make sense to me to have it here but this is where my wife said to put it.

tannic acid solution
This had one grayish dot swimming in it the day after I finished using it. This stuff spoils once the water hits the powder. The next time I mix some of this up I'll try refrigerating it to see that will extend it's life. This container got shit canned.

sizing the the back
I cleared off the tablesaw and cut myself on one of the molding planes as a reward for being a good boy and doing that. I sawed the plywood to width on the tablesaw and used the handsaw on the end cut.

off cuts
Hand sawing this plywood was a massively sucky job to do. The long piece is the start of the cut. Then the saw jammed and I could not move it up or down. I broken this big piece off, sawed a little and broke another piece off. I kept sawing and breaking pieces off until the end. The biggest problem was the saw kept jamming (it would not budge)  and waxing didn't help at all.

getting awfully close
My diagonals are off about a 16th which isn't too bad considering the length and width of this. The top has the factory cut and the bottom is my hand sawn cut.

wee bit out of square
less than a 32nd off
The end cut almost touched the back of the rabbet on this end at the middle so that is where I placed the clamp. I lightly clamped it and I almost zeroed out the diagonals. It pulled the top factory edge in tighter at the top and the sides which helped equalizing the diagonals.


7 foot bar clamp
 When I made my bed 525 moon sets ago I used this clamp and four others. They are long but not that good. The iron is soft and can't exert a lot of pressure and will bow up like a warm pretzel if you exert too much.

this is why I made the gizmos
I do not have any luck using a clamp to shift corners to pull carcasses into square. The flat of the clamping pad always slips and drops off the corner. The gizmos won't have that problem. But it's a moot point for this because I won't be using them. I'll be using the plywood back to square up the carcass.

big red to the rescue
I need to square the end here because this looks like a bumpy country road.  I tried knifing a line first but I couldn't see it. Besides,  I caught the grain in a couple of spots and wandered off into La La Land. I ran a pencil line from both sides instead and planed down to it.


not perfect
This doesn't have to be perfect. The factory edge at the top squares up the carcass. The bottom needs to be closer to the back of the rabbet on the bottom. I will have to cut the rabbets again on the sides by about an 1/8" to do that as I lost a few frog hairs squaring up the bottom. I want the back to be tight in all four rabbets as that will strengthen the carcass and help to prevent racking.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the only river that flows north and south of the equator?
answer - the Congo River crosses the equator twice

prepping for the glue up........

Tue, 06/06/2017 - 12:35am
I have the holes drilled for the shelves in the bookcase already. That means if I don't get the carcass square on the glue up, all my shelf pin holes will be in La La land. To that end I am going real slow on this glue up because I won't have a second chance at the brass ring. I even made a gizmo to help me out with that. That may or may not pay any dividends. I hope it does because working alone has it's ups and downs.

glue up gizmo step 1
I don't know the size of these but they are square.

step #2
Drill a 11/16" inch hole in the middle. This size isn't critical and I used this bit because it looks ok and it was the first one I grabbed.

step #3
Saw out a 90° piece or a 45°, depending upon your point of view.  Save the off cut and try to be accurate. I did these on the bandsaw.

the only one of the four that was off
A couple of swipes with the chisel on both legs and the 45 square fit with no daylight showing.

done
It isn't imperative that this be dead nuts 45° but it helps to practice to be accurate. The last step is to glue the off cut to the big block. A wee bit later in the blog and all will be revealed about it's function. That will give the glue a bit of time to set up too.

more stock
This is a prototype and I'm not sure if it will work as I envision it. I made my first set of these out of solid wood and stopped. I remembered making these before out of solid wood and having them break on me. The plywood is a better choice for this application. I  can make more if this one doesn't work.

dry clamping the carcass
This is where the fun begins. I clamped the near end with corner clamps to hold this end together while I clamped the far end. The 1x4's under carcass allow me to do this because the width of the bookcase is wider than my workbench is.

nope
57 3/16" this way and the other way is 57 7/16" so I'm about a 1/4" out of square. It's been a very long time since I have made a something this big that had a plywood back. I have to ensure that the rabbet joints are tight, the carcass is square, and the back fits with no daylight. I fiddled with this a bit shifting the clamps to try and draw it up square but I had no luck. The best I got was a strong 1/8 off on the diagonals.

this I don't understand
The carcass is pretty square on the bottom which is the front of the bookcase.

the top is toast
This proves the square is not an accurate tool to use to ensure 90° corners on this. I can sight down the long sides of the carcass and the left and right sides bow inward. If I relax the long clamps the bow disappears but the carcass is still not square. No way to get a square to read the corners accurately.

one gizmo goes here
another goes on the opposite diagonal corner
a clamp connects the two gizmos
The big problem I have using a clamp to pull the long corner into square is having  the ^^$##@&;%$ clamp stay there. The big plan with the gizmos is to provide a flat surface for the clamp head and to pull the carcass square. I didn't get to try that tonight.because I have to figure out one more thing with them.

the gizmos are ready
The glue set up sufficiently and I was able to put a couple of screws in each one. The sticking point with these is just that. Working by myself how do I get these to stay in place while I get a clamp on them? I have double sided tape but that stuff is way too sticky. It is very difficult to pry things apart with that tape. And it gets worse with the amount of pressure applied. Blue tape is a choice but it is hard to get it stay put and not have the gizmo flop around. What I need is a post-it-note type stickiness.

I think I find the perfect adhesive to hold these in place and then release without taking a chunk of wood with them. It's the picture hanging glue tabs. The ones that you stick one to the wall and one on the picture.  To remove it, you just pull it off. I got this idea when I saw my wife hanging pictures up in the kitchen. I thought I would borrow some of hers but I don't know where she hid them. I'll have to make a pit stop to get some tomorrow.

measured the carcass
I measured the rabbet in the back of the carcass from both directions and compared them. They are the same but I don't have a warm and fuzzy about it. The diagonals are off so does that mean these measurements are not correct for a square back too? If I saw the back to these measurements will the carcass be square or will it remain as it is, slightly out of square. This is where my wonderful spatial abilities come to the fore and failed me.

I'll hand saw the plywood back
I did think of using the tablesaw to make the cuts for the plywood back but looking at this pile of crap changed my mind. Besides the cuts aren't all that wide - both are less than an inch - and that won't be easy or safe to do on the tablesaw. I'll wait until tomorrow before doing any cutting.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is on the flip side of the Susan B Anthony $1 coin?
answer - an eagle displayed over of a landscape of the moon

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