Hand Tool Headlines

The Woodworking Blogs Aggregator


Be sure to visit the Hand Tool Headlines section - scores of my favorite woodworking blogs in one place.  Also, take note of Norse Woodsmith's latest feature, an Online Store, which contains only products I personally recommend.  It is secure and safe, and is powered by Amazon.


Accidental Woodworker

Subscribe to Accidental Woodworker feed
The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2458125
Updated: 1 hour 1 min ago

had a senior moment.......

4 hours 31 min ago
Some parts for my planes that I ordered came in today.  I still have a #4 chipbreaker for a Stanley iron that I'm waiting on but it is something that I can wait for. I ordered a chipbreaker from Lie Nielsen but I am still waiting for that 10 days later. That sent all the tracking info to my wife's email and since she hadn't ordered anything from LN, she deleted it. She couldn't find it in her trash so I'll have to call them and find out where it's at.

I bought them all
I emailed Bill Rittner and asked if he made the chipbreaker screws. That answer was no, but he said he had some he would sell. I bought two from him thinking I was golden. Turns out I lost two somehow, somewhere. I think they fell off the sharpening bench and got dumped with the shavings when I swept the deck. I noticed this seller on ebay offering chipbreaker screws and I bought all 5 he had for sale.

What surprised me about both sellers, was how clean the screws were. I usually get parts like this all rusty and ratty looking. These are all rust free and shiny. The slots aren't mangled and the screws all have good looking, well defined threads.

these 3 are all set now
I have four of the chipbreaker screws left. I need one more for the #4 chipbreaker in the mail and I'll have 3 left for spares.

everything has set up
I clamped the spreader at the bottom front because the bottom here was toeing outwards. I did this to keep it where it should be as the back brace set up.

removed most of the proud with the chisel - I then planed it flush
flushed the walnut to the bottom

checked my desk stock
Both of these are still flat and straight. I still don't know what the one on the right is made of. It kind of looks like ramin wood. I flipped the two so the opposite side was facing out for the next 24 hours.

lightweight but sufficient
This isn't going to be moved and it is plenty strong enough to support a monitor. I was thinking about putting a stretcher at the bottom front.

3/4" screw
I need some 3/4" screws to fasten the the top brace to the top plywood. These have a washer as part of the screw head.

ugly even if they won't be seen
found a lot of 3/4" screws
I didn't realize that I had so many screws in this size. I'll be using the oval head ones vice the flat heads.

found a piece of poplar long enough
sawing 1/2 x 1/2 notches
my senior moment
I sawed the notches on the wrong side. I can't believe that I didn't notice it and sawed it out. On a bright note, I got a snug fit on both sides.

I will have to use a wide piece after I fix this
I wanted to use walnut here
The notch I made to even it up on both sides ended up being 2". I would like to use walnut here to match the edge banding I did. This piece is too small - I can't saw it in two and glue it together to get the required width and length.

padauk is another choice
I can't get the walnut to work so I will use poplar. I'm not wasting padauk on something like this. I'll do that tomorrow because the lights are going dark now.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a folivore?
answer - an animal that eats leaves

changed lanes......

Mon, 03/27/2017 - 12:52am
I was working on the new bookshelf project but I put on the turn signal and made a lane change. I will work on the bookshelf as I can but my main impetus now is finishing the stand up desk for work. I did a couple of days standing up and I couldn't believe the difference when I went home. My butt cheeks didn't hurt and my metal hip side felt a bazillion percent better.

I nixed getting the VA supplied stand up desk version because it won't work for me. It will elevate the monitor and keyboard/mouse up and down but that is it. There is no provision for working on paperwork at the same time at an elevated position. If all I was doing was computer work this would work. But over half of what I do doing the day is dealing with paperwork first and then feeding all that into the scanner and onto the computer.

oh dark thirty sunday morning
I didn't have high hopes that this would be flat.

still bowed
This is an improvement of what it was the previous day. I could attempt to glue and screw a base to this that would also act as a strong back and pull it flat. Since this is/was going to be my stand up desk, I need it to be flat from the git go. I also want a warm and fuzzy that it will stay that way too.

This will go into the wood pile to be used from something else. For the desk it's use is toast and I'll buy another 2x4 sheet of plywood.

monitor base frames
Out of the clamps and they are laying flat on each other. No twist and no rocking from either one. I did these on the tablesaw mostly because I want to get this done as quickly as I can. I know that I couldn't make a bridle joint this small by hand nor as quickly as I did on the tablesaw. I won't be using bridle joinery on the big desk. For that I will most likely use mortise and tenon.

blurry pic of a proud tenon
I didn't take this into account when I made the frame. I cleaned up the insides with a plane before I glued it up. They are sticking up about a 32nd strong and they would make a difference if I was making this frame a specific size .

possible big desk base stock
I squared this stock up over a year ago for what I don't remember. There is more than enough stock to make the base ends. I just need stock for the long rails.

flushed and cleaned up the frames

the monitor base top
The first two pieces of walnut have set up and I sawed off most of the overhang. I don't want to accidentally break them off while I glue on the last two pieces.

trimming the first two pieces flush
The two pieces of walnut are proud on both sides of the plywood. If do one side like this I could possibly break off the other side in a way that would make me very unhappy.

not a problem now
I put the cauls I used to glue the walnut on under the plywood. They elevated  the walnut clear of the bench on the opposite side.

cutting and fitting the last two walnut strips
I squared up one end and marked the length directly off the plywood. Since this is so thin I did all the cutting with this marking knife.

quick, easy, and I got a clean edge
I repeatedly scored the strip of walnut and leaving the square in place, I snapped off the waste. I still kept the square there and used the marking knife to clean up the snapped off end.

the proposed bracing
The bottom poplar piece I am changing to 1/2" plywood so I don't have to deal with expansion and contraction from solid wood. The back brace will stay poplar and I'll dovetail that.

two pieces of 3/4" plywood
At 0755 I was in the parking lot of Home Depot sipping a Starbucks waiting for it to open. I bought two pieces of 2'x4' by 3/4" thick plywood panels. The one on the left is birch plywood and the right one was $6 cheaper and I don't have clue as to what it is.

I went through every single piece of both of these plywood bins and I only found one flat and straight one in each. The one I bought yesterday came from Lowes and I don't remember if I checked it for being flat. I was more interested in getting a nice grain pattern. I got that but a pretzel for a board.

sticker plywood?
I'm real antsy to get going on this but I have to be patient. I will let this sticker here for a few days and see if I still have flat stock. In the interim I can finish up the monitor stand which I am going to apply a finish to. After I snapped this pic I separated these two.

the top brace details
I thought first of doing a 1/2 lapped, stopped rabbet here. They would hold the sides together and keep them from toeing here. But I didn't like the small area contact between the brace and the sides. Skipped that and I am going with a through dado that I'll glue and screw the plywood into it and get the same result. The plywood ends will be visible in the finished joint so I will edge band them first with walnut.

ends banded
I will apply the walnut to the long edges after I have the brace glued and screwed in place.

flush fit on the through dado
labeled the bottom
It is way too easy to become confused as to which side is up or down. And I need big letters because I have been known to ignore smaller penciled markings.

wee bit off on this side
I sawed inside of the lines because I wanted this to be a snug fit. I had planned on planing the plywood to fit the dadoes but I didn't have to do that on either side. On this side I did one saw cut leaving the line like I was supposed to. On the other side of the cut, I sawed right on the line.

walnut veneer
I dug this out of my pizza box of veneer. I can saw a small strip and use it fill the gaps.

I have a boatload of planes
Why can't I use one of them and make my own veneer to fill the gaps? That is what I did. I planed up 6 strips of varying thicknesses by adjusting the depth of the iron. Each of them is about 4 inches long and conveniently curled up.

it worked
 I got the gap closed up and a snug fit. Self supporting and this is ready to glue up.

rounding over the corners on the monitor top
the 3rd one
This is the third sliver I popped up sanding the the walnut. I am gluing it back down like I did on the other two with this glue. I put some blue tape on it and set it aside to set up.

I had striped walnut
I could see every place where I used the blue tape on this walnut. I wiped down all 4 sides with mineral spirits to remove any of the residue. After that I scraped them down to make sure I got all of the residue.

removing glue with a carbide scraper
The brace is glued and screwed in place so I can get on with the build. I don't like using a chisel to remove dried glue. I tend to dig in when I use it and I end up with divots. And you have to be extra careful dealing with the plywood because the face veneers are only 2 atoms thick. I like the control and finesse I seem to have with the carbide scraper.

marking for the brace
 In order to mark the brace, I need the frame legs to be square to the bottom. On this side they are leaning outboard and the opposite side they are toeing inboard.

now it's square
Now that it is square and in the final position, I can mark the shoulders on the back brace.

used a story stick
I don't like to use a ruler to mark two separate things the same.  I squared the line across the end and the story stick on the first one. I repeated that on the other side.

gauge stick
This is to help me saw the dovetails in the back. This is the same as the shoulder to shoulder length of the bottom brace.

kept things from dancing around as I sawed
I clamped this on the opposite side of the saw cut I was doing. It worked pretty good at keeping the ends stiff while I sawed.  Once I sawed one wall on both sides, I moved the brace to the sawn side and did the last two.

the moment of truth
too snug for me
I pulled this off and looked for any bruising was. I trimmed those areas and glued it up.

the last of the walnut trim pieces
The back brace is glued and clamped. The first of the two walnut pieces to be glued is going in.

left it proud on this side
I won't be able to trim any proud on the other side easily so I glued the strips on flush on that side. On this side I can plane it off end to end. And if I get a bit of tear out it will be hidden.

flush on this side

proud on this side
tight shoulders
The shoulders will be visible on this and I wanted them to be tight to the sides. I got that and the proud on this side I can chisel flush.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What were the first names used by Sir Arthur Doyle for Sherlock Holmes and Dr Watson?
answer - Sherringford Holmes and Ormond Sacker

a diverse saturday.......

Sun, 03/26/2017 - 3:38am
I do other things besides stuff in the workshop. I did a couple of other things today and they involved wood too. But neither of them were in the workshop, they just happen to involve wood. The first was my back door. The screws in the top hinge became loose again which causes the door to sag and not close. I finally got tired of tightening the screws and I was going to replace the screws after I drilled out the old screws holes and filled them with golf tees.

That was plan 1, iteration 3b, change 9, upgrade Z21-A, that quickly got flushed down the toilet. The reason why plan #1 didn't work was that I couldn't drill the holes for the new screws because the jamb for the screen door was in the way. And the door was drooping so I couldn't line up the holes in the hinge with the ones in the door.

size of the screw in the hinges
When I was hanging doors, I was taught by a german carpenter that in a 4 hole hinge, you always use at least one (and preferably2) long screw through the jamb and into the king stud. Repeat this same action for the hinges attached to the door. This door only had these piss ant 3/4" screws in all 3 hinges.

The one thing I didn't want to do was take the door down. It is an old, solid wood door and it weighs as much as battleship. I know this because I had to take the door off the hinges. I also blew out the lower hinge on the jamb. So I had to fix those screw holes along with the ones on the top of the door.

From start to finish this adventure took me over 3 hours and I'm still not done. I'll be replacing the door and the jamb later on this summer. Part of the problem with blowing out the bottom hinge was due to rot. The door has been sagging for years, and I've putting band-aids on it for years, and now I have run out of them. The rot at the bottom of the door jamb is only going to get worse and contribute more to the door sagging. The rot is on the lock set side of the jamb but the hinge looked like it had some too.

brought a problem home
This was rocking on me at work so I brought it home thinking I could fix that. Just eyeballing the top of this is making me seasick. It has more waves and dips than a state 5 sea.

I'm two lines off
Each line that I can see represents a 1/8" of twist and this is about a 1/4". It was flat and straight when I glued the poplar bridle jointed base to it. I think the plywood sucked up and glue and buckled like this. This is the cheapest, lightest, plywood I have ever used. I won't be using this crap again.

had to check it to make sure
The plywood definitely twisted and it pulled the base out of square too.  I'll be making another of these but I'll be using solid wood.

monitor stand
The base for this monitor is birch plywood and the not crap from above. I am not going to glue the stand to the base. I am thinking of putting a cross piece that I will glue and screw into the top of the base. I will then screw that cross piece to the monitor base. I will also put a cross brace on the back to stiffen it up. I won't put one on the front so I can access to the space there.

The monitor base will be 13" up from the desk. The monitor will adjust upwards another 6". Between the two of them I can dial in a height where I can look straight into the monitor without bobbing my head.

all the joints are trimmed, dry fitted, and ready to glue up
glued up and cooking
Bridle joinery has a lot of likes to it. They are quick, easy to make, and self squaring. As long as you take your time to make accurate cuts, it will square up.

the main desk
I'll cut this 2x4 piece of 3/4 plywood down to 18" by 38". This will be my stand up to work at desk. I cobbled some boxes together at work to find a height that works for me. I don't want to be hunched over when I work on my paperwork. Working 13" up from my existing desk seemed to be the magic number. I'll use 3/4" stock for the base and that will be enough room to put foot levelers on to raise it up if I have to. I erred on the low side with this because I can raise it but lowering won't be as easy.

I won't be using this
The replacement I'm making is for my cube mate to use. I bought an under mount keyboard from McMaster-Carr. It is a ball bearing slide that locks in the open position. The big reason I bought it was because it is adjustable. It has a 3" up/down range of motion which will let me dial in the right height for the keyboard.

hiding the plies
I am wrapping the plywood edges of the base with some scraps of walnut. Since I don't like using nails or other types of fasteners on something like this, I'm using only glue. I glued on the first piece and after it has set for 15 minutes or so I'll glue another one on.

2nd piece glued on
ran long
Two of the walnut strips are about 1/8" thick and two are about a 1/16" thick. Rather then try and miter this, I put the thicker pieces on the front and rear. The thinner ones will be put on the sides. I ran the front and rear long so I could cover the end grain of the sides. Once everything is glued and cured, I'll saw off the long parts. I will flush them up and round over the corners. Of course I'll have to wait until tomorrow to do that.

new ebonizing method
I was reading up on how to ebonize and I came across one that used citric acid instead of vinegar. The author stated that citric acid is more acidic than white or apple cider vinegars. I'm game to try it out and see if it works. He also said that it eats up the steel wool a lot faster - I'll see what shakes out with that.

distilled water first
I don't know why I was in a hurry to get this going. I should have nuked it first and got it hot because the citric acid would dissolve better in a hot liquid.

about 1/2 of a 1/4 cup
lots of breathing holes
I covered the steel wool pad and I set this aside to do it's magic.

I took a break here and did my second non workshop wood related chore. I found some pruners and filed them sharp and went outside in the rain. I spent the next hour pruning my 3 lilac bushes. I removed all the dead wood and last years blooms that didn't fall off. I'll have to make another trip tomorrow with the big ass pruners to get a few crossed branches that are rubbing against each other.

After I came back in I was going to work on the big desk but that didn't happen. When I looked at it on the bench I saw that it was noticeably bowed. Bowed to the point of being useless to use as the desk. I clamped it down to bench and we'll see tomorrow if there is any joy in Mudville.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the width of the train tracks in America based on?
answer - the width of ancient Roman cart tracks, 4 feet 8 1/2"

bookshelf feet.......

Sat, 03/25/2017 - 1:07am
I had been thinking about how to do the feet for the bookshelf off and on all day. My first thoughts were centered around the tablesaw. It would have taken only a few minutes to make a taper jig and poof, two matching feet. It was a hard call for me to make but I opted for the hand tool route. If the first ones didn't come out, I had more stock to get at least 4 more tries. This was the first time I had attempted to get two tapered parts identical so I wasn't sure what the outcome would be.

going with the pencil lines
After thinking about it, I decided to use the pencil lines rather than a knife line on both sides.  I would have had to use a ruler to do that and they tend to slip and move as I mark with them. Instead the plan was to plane the first one to the pencil lines and make sure it was square toe to heel. Once the first one was done, I would make the second one match it.

rough bandsaw work done
I tried to saw these by hand but I couldn't come up with a way to secure them that I liked. I used the bandsaw trying to stay as close to the line as I could. That would mean less work planing.

planing it smooth and square
My right side was a bit high and I knocked it down with the block plane.

first foot done
It took a bit of fussing but I finally got it square along the entire length.

I got lucky
For whatever reason, I thought I would be planing against the grain on one of the feet in this configuration. I was a whisper off at the front and dead nuts flush  at the heel. I had a bit of a problem with getting it flush and then planing it slightly out of square at the same time. After a bit of back and forth I was finished.

dead nuts
I got it on the first try so I had my happy face on. I can not feel a difference between the two legs at all. I closed my eyes and zig zagged my fingertips up and down from toe to heel and I couldn't feel any highs or lows.

With the feet done, I can make up the iron part of the ebony solution. That will take a few days to cook and in the interim I can finish up the rest of the bookshelf.

straightedge isn't touching the opposite corners
it's dragging on these two corners

This means that this is twisted. If there was a hump in the middle, which I usually have, the straight edge would clear all four corners.

my sighting table
This is what I was using to put on the workbench and put the stock on it to check it for twist. As you can see it is a horizontal storage surface inbetween uses. And the use becomes less frequent directly proportional to the amount of crap that gets piled on it.

the replacement
The box is lighter and easier to position. It is a bit taller so I don't have to bend down at all to sight over my winding sticks.

it's twisted
caught myself
I almost made a huge boo-boo here. The reference face hasn't had it's twist taken out yet. I have to do on this face first and then mark the thickness and that will remove it from the opposite face.

big difference
I can see the twist based on the gauge lines on the right board. I didn't think that I would have to remove as much wood from the left one. The thickness of these will be a 32nd or so fatter then 13/16.

dealing with a defect
I wanted this to be the front edge but if I sawed this off the shelf would be too narrow. I think it is too deep for a round over or a chamfer to hide. So I'm putting it at the back bottom and keeping my width as wide as I can. The shelf is about a 1/16" thinner than the sides.

#120 spin wheels
Matt left me comment saying that his spin wheel was stripped. I didn't get any indication of at all so I'm checking it out again. It's easy to pick these apart, Matt's is on the right and has bigger circles in the wheel and a larger cutout on the lever cap.

Matt's wheel
The threads at the top are shiny and are a bit worn but I've seen worse than this that still worked.

my threads have better definition and aren't worn
swapped them out
Matt's wheel spun into my lever cap with ease. Mine threaded into his lever cap with some resistance the closer I got to bottoming out. After a few turns in and out it smoothed out a lot.

I tried both wheels in their respective lever caps and I still didn't get any stripping action. Both locked down on the iron without any problems. I swapped them out and got the same results. I couldn't get either one to 'strip' out.

Matt's plane in action
I tried to make a shaving with Matt's plane and I got this. It is on the thick side but it is clean and complete end to end off the test board.

second attempt
Wispy, blow away shavings on my next try. (Still Matt's plane)

getting closer
Thinner but still too thick for my liking.

5 tries and 5 different shavings
I was surprised by the depth range on the adjuster. The last two shavings were the thinnest and what I would use if I was planing with this. There is a fairly large depth range and much more that what I expected from this plane.

finally got it to 'strip'
I tightened down with the wheel as much as I could and close to the end it slipped and wouldn't tighten anymore. I have a lot of block planes and one painful thing I have learned with them is to not over tighten them. I learned slowly that I didn't have to tighten the wheel until I couldn't turn it anymore.  Basically what I do now is when I feel resistance I turn the wheel about a 1/2 turn more and stop. That was what I was doing with these two planes and why I wasn't getting the stripping action.

I'll keep an eye on that and for the time being I'll leave the wheels on their respective lever caps. If the stripping action comes up again, I'll swap out the wheels.

I would have done the planing on the sides to thickness tonight but I was tired. The one thing I didn't want to screw it up was the thicknessing because I was tired. I probably would have made a mistake and not caught it until the next day. Grrr!. No rush or deadlines on this, so I'll pick this up on Saturday.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How teaspoons are there in a cup?
answer - 48 (3 teaspoons to a tablespoon and 16 tablespoons in a cup)

Stanley #120 pt II..........

Fri, 03/24/2017 - 1:47am
I did some more work on the block planes and some work on the bookshelf. I didn't finish either one. I'll keep going on the bookshelf but the planes will be shelved for the time being. I also need to work on my stand up desk at work. I used my small keyboard desk and that is ok but I need something else to lay out paperwork on so I can work on it. I let my cube mate use this week so I can get a critique from him on it. I'll find out what he has to say about it tomorrow.

24 hrs later it's green
I dumped a 1/4 cup of citrus acid in the water and put all the parts in making sure everything was under water. I did something new for me here. I usually clean up the rust first but this time I didn't. I watched a bunch of You tube videos where he tried 8 different methods of rust removal. I'll be sticking with Evaporust and citrus acid.

Matt's came out a little cleaner
This didn't have a lot of rust on it.

Ouch! switched to using my right hand
rinsed and driedof any water with the hair dryer

I am pretty happy with how clean the parts are. There is no visible rust on any of the plane parts.

the plane adjusters
Matt's plane is on the top and this was covered with visible rust. It is looking good here but I can still see some rust.

my iron is a Sweet Heart one
Matt's iron has writing on but I need help to see it
it's faint but this is what I saw
It's looking like Matt's plane is the older one. I thought that mine was the oldest one.

spin wheels
Both of these are in pretty good shape. Either one spins true, but neither has any excessive wobble to it. Matt's lever cap is on the right it looks like it has gotten more wear on the nub then mine.

how the blade is adjusted
The serrations on the back of the iron lie on the ones on the lever adjust. Moving that, moves the iron up and down.

all the way down
all the way up
There is not a lot of movement here. I don't think that it moved more than 1/8". That means the iron isn't going to have a wide range of movement.

my lever adjust doesn't work
Matt's plane works
My SW iron works in Matt's plane. My lever cap works in Matt's plane. My plane will make shavings the way it is but I don't have any adjustment at all.

my serrations are kind of flattened out
Matt's serrations are better defined
didn't work
I tried to file a couple of them but I think the file is too big. I might have been able to do it with a smaller file .

side view of my adjuster
Even if I had a smaller file it would not have worked. The adjuster falls off at the bottom left. It doesn't make contact with the serrations on the iron. This is toast.

Matt's adjuster
This adjuster is level and the 'teeth' are better defined. They make good contact with the iron but I can see why this didn't last. This is definitely not made for a ham fisted guy.

It looks like I'll be rehabbing Matt's plane and not mine. I'll keep mine as is and use it as a paint remover plane. I'll paint Matt's plane, sand the sides and the sole, and make it look as brand new as I can. I put these two aside for now and I'll come back to them later on.

There you go Bob. This is all I know about these. When can I expect a #120 blog post?

feet stock - this face is flat and straight with no hump
sawed off the front and back pieces
I am pretty damn happy about it
This is pretty good for right off of the saw. This is the back and it doesn't have to be perfect because nothing will referenced off of this.

the front is dead nuts
The front will be the reference face and I'll make all of my measurements off of it.

the fronts
The left one is 2 frog hairs longer than it's mate. This doesn't matter if they are slightly off. Since the front is the reference face, the back can be longer and will be hardly noticeable without a microscope.

I can't plane the two of these as one
It looks like I'll planing to the line on both of these. I should have thought ahead on this so I could have done it that way.

need a bigger fence
The front face is at a 5° angle but I'll get a lot of tear out if I try to shoot it on this.

used my small block plane
This went very quickly because I had sawn the faces so good. These will ebonized and will be seen so I want this face to be clean as I can get it.

Tomorrow I'll saw off the tops to the feet and see how well I can do planing them separately and end up with the two of them the same.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What did ancient prospectors use to collect grains of gold from streams?
answer - the fleece of sheep

Stanley #120 block plane rehabbing.........

Thu, 03/23/2017 - 1:43am
Had a quick night in the shop tonight. I didn't make any pit stops and as soon as I got home, I put the garbage out. I didn't get any pickup last week and I think I know why. I have gotten a few notes in the past on my garbage bins explaining the errors of my ways. It seems here in Warwick in order to get your garbage dumped you have to put out at least one recycling bin. Be it the paper or the bottle and cans one. I didn't do that and for the second week in a row, my garbage wasn't picked up.

I have put out one recycling bin only to be told that it must be at least 1/2 full to be put curbside.  Let's see if we can do the math on this together. In order to have the garbage picked up I have to have a 1/2 full recycling bin. I have put an empty one along side the garbage and I got a note explaining how wrong I was to do that. I didn't get my garbage picked up that day neither. So, Einstein, what is the solution to this?

What does picking up the garbage have to do with the recycling? If I don't put out one that is at least 1/2 full, nothing gets picked up. I think that there is one and only one genius that has thought up these rules. 90% of the time I only put out the garbage and it gets picked up.  Why? because I don't generate enough recycling to put a 1/2 full bin curbside every week. Every once in a while this no pickup crappola happens. I gave up calling city hall to get a clarification on this. I am stuck with the fecal covered end of the stick no matter which I turn here.

look familiar
A friend of mine asked me why I went 'ape shit' (his words) on flattening the back of this iron? He said you only have to do a 1/4" or a 1/2" at the most. I made this so large because it is easier for me to do it this way. By having more real estate on the 80 grit belt, there is less of a chance that I'll be doing this with the iron pitched down. With this much on the belt I can also bear down on the top of it with the heel of my palm. That saves a lot of wear and tear on my fingers. That is why it is that large Frank.

Stanley #120 block plane
Matt from the Tiny Workshop offered me his 120 for parts to get my #120 up and running. Of course I accepted. Now I can get at least one of these working.

I don't know a lot about these block planes. According to Stanley Catalogue #34 this plane cost 75 cents and was an upgrade over the #103. The #120 got ground parallel sides and a rosewood knob instead of a metal boss like on the #103. Both planes were intended for light duty work. Insert one of Bob Demers blogs on fleshing out about everything you had to now about the Stanley #120 here.

I was expecting a derelict or at the very least something that didn't look as nice as this does. To my eye it is looking like I might be able to rehab the both of them.

slight differences are apparent
The first difference is the lever caps cutouts are not the same. Matt's block plane (on the right)is larger and it extends back toward the heel more. And I'm pretty sure that the knob is rosewood too.

knob fits on my plane
It didn't tighten until it was almost down to the bottom. I'm sure that these knobs were lost with a lot of frequency. I think the boss from the #103 should have been used on this plane too. I'll keep looking for a spare knob but I won't be holding my breath till I get one.

irons are the same width
Matt's iron is cleaner and has some shine to it.  Mine is rusty but it is only half ass'ed sharpened. In spite of that it took pretty decent shavings. I didn't try Matt's iron but his bevel is shiny and looks to be sharp. Matt's iron has been used a wee bit more than mine as you can see in the pic.

the bottoms
Matt obviously loved this plane and took good care of it. His toe and heel appear to have a larger radius and both planes are close to the same length. The width is also within +/- 5 frog hairs.

From the Stanley catalogue #34, the bottom and sides were ground on the #120. I'll be doing that on mine a little later on. The #103 had a ground bottom but japanned sides.

taking a citrus bath until tomorrow
I got both planes in here and nothing is touching bottom.

new feet material
6/4 ash on the left and 8/4 white oak on the right. I don't want to use the white oak so the ash is batting lead off.

two wide ribbons of sapwood
When I fumed the clock I'm replacing the movement in, the sapwood barely changed color. I don't know how the sapwood will react to ebonizing. This goes back into the wood pile.

ash is about a 1/4" wider

I think this is the best choice to to go with. I can easily get the reveal I want on both sides.

I got my 1/8"
If the sides end up a bit thin, I can thin down the feet to get a balanced reveal.

I can get both feet out of this and avoid the sapwood
found a smaller piece
I have less waste with this so this is now the lead off batter. BTW, these cherry feet are the off cuts from the cradle ends I made for my daughter.

stickered my parts
I am feeling under the weather. My stomach hurts and I'm getting light headed. Not a good mix with hand tools or power tools. We'll see what tomorrow brings but for now I am quitting and heading for the bunky.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Before the hair dryer was invented in 1920, what was used to dry your hair?
answer - the vacuum cleaner

new (old) project.......

Wed, 03/22/2017 - 12:30am
I've had this project staged and ready to start since last year. One thing or another has grabbed my limited attention span it has sat unloved until now.  I've been thinking a bit about it and on how to do some of the joinery. I'll get into that later.

I haven't forgotten about my workbench build. I still have to clean up the face vise and buy all the wood and I'll start to do that next month. I'll make a road trip up to Highlands to buy the wood for the base. I'll build that first and then I'll start in on the bench top. That is in the sequence of events as of now. I'm hoping that I'll be done with it and using it by the end of summer.

flattened with 80 grit
I totally forgot about doing the clock. Instead I played with one of the four irons waiting to be sharpened. The 80 grit was still set up on the workbench so I decided to see how long it would take to flatten this #3 iron. From a short go on the 80 grit yesterday it looked it would be quick to do.

the diamond lapping plate was next
I noticed that after the 80 grit, I don't get the total flattening when I move up to the diamond stones. I did strokes on this until the cloudy areas by my fingers were gone.

I used all 4 of my diamond stones
I went through them all skipping the 8K Japanese stone. I could stop after the first diamond stone but I don't like the scratches so I go through them all till I get the polished look.

I inherited this shiny bevel
I rounded off the corners before I started to sharpen and hone the bevel.

iron is done
Went up through the 3 diamond stones, polished it on the 8K, and then I  stropped the snot out of it.

the chipbreaker
Someone had already prepped the chipbreaker. There were a few tiny chips on the edge that I stoned out. I stropped it after that and the chipbreaker was done. This took me 13 minutes to do from start to finish. I don't consider that to be too excessive time wise. I probably could have done this in less than half that time if I had done it free hand and did a micro bevel the way Richard Maguire does it. But I'm not interested in shaving nanoseconds off of my sharpening time.

right and left shavings - both the same size and thickness
shavings from the center of the iron
15 secs work on the 80 grit
I have made a decision on my sharpening and I am not changing the way I do business. I am getting good shavings and I am able to work with my planes on my woodworking and get good results. No more faffing about on diamond stones flattening the backs though. I'll be going straight to 80 grit (which I'll be changing to 100 or 120 grit). This is one aspect of sharpening that I do want to save time and finger wear on.

I'll continue to use my diamond stones for all of my tool steel and O1 tools. With the A2 irons I may go back to using water stones just for them. That depends upon what Richard presents in chapters 4-7. I don't have time to watch them on weekday nights and I can't watch them at work on my lunch time(they are blocked). The weekend is the only time I'll be able to catch up on them.

The way I'm sharpening now is working for me. I like the results I get. I can do anything I want with these methods. Now that I know I have to raise that damn burr first, I think I'm heading in the right direction.

the new project parts
There isn't a lot of wood in this. The board under the plane is the shelf. The angled cherry pieces are the feet and the two small walnut boards are the ends.

these were the back slats
I am replacing these with poplar boards. I will ebonize them and that will hide that they are poplar.  The other reason why I am changing to poplar is that the cherry slat is too short in the length.

getting an eyeball guess-ta-mate
This will be my first hardwood bookshelf that wasn't made from pine or poplar.

my last pine one
The walnut one will be bigger, have feet instead of the side bottoms resting on the top of whatever, and it will have 3 slats rather than 2. I had thought of putting a drawer underneath the shelf but that may or may not see the light of day.

it's a year old
I didn't realize that this much time had passed since I made this.

cherry feet
Thinking about ebonizing these too. It bugs me that I'll be doing that to cherry. I think I should ebonize the feet to match the back slats, but not with cherry ones. I'll have to check and see if I can find a substitute for it.

my latest rehabbed #3 plane
This is what convinced me to stay with the sharpening setup I use now. I can blow on these shavings and they would disintegrate. This side of the board was rippled along it's entire length by the planer that was used to get this to thickness. This 100 year old plane sailed through smoothing this face with an iron sharpened my way.

first side is twist free
second one has a slight amount to remove

I'm keeping the sapwood
I like using the board as it comes to me from the tree and that means using the sapwood too. These two will be the outside faces.

the inside faces
These faces are both relatively sapwood free.

the shelf is twist free
I haven't planed the sides to thickness yet. All I've done on them is make one reference face and one reference edge. Both of these boards were rough sawn and I just smoothed the non reference face. This works in my favor for getting a final thickness.

the sides are almost as thick as the feet
I want a 1/8" reveal on both sides
I also want to keep the sides as thick as possible. I may have to glue up some stock to get some thicker feet to work with. I'll be able to see how or if I can ebonize a glue line.

The thing that has been giving me headaches is how to attach the sides to the feet? I have a biscuit joiner and I could use that. Another option is making floating tenons by hand somehow. The last option I thought of was a tenon on the bottom of the sides fitted into a mortise on the feet.

no hump
Both sides of the shelf are flat with no hump. This board wasn't rough sawn but S2S so that had a lot to do with this being humpless. I quit here and tomorrow I'll start on getting the sides to thickness and looking into new feet.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first president to receive a salary of $100,000 a year?
answer - Harry S Truman (current salary is $400,000 a year)

clock retrofit update.......

Tue, 03/21/2017 - 12:25am
Made a pit stop on the way home to get some cereal. So what did I go home with? Moo Cow juice, a tomato, a bag of cat food, and a head of iceberg lettuce. I walked right by the cereal because I was thinking I should get some cat food. Stercus Accidit. I'll try to remember it on wednesday.

I got through the first 3 chapters of Richard Maguire's sharpening video.There are 3 more chapters available now with the 7th one due on the 22nd(?). I was reluctant to buy this because I didn't want to muddle my head up with another person showing their way of sharpening. The 3 chapters I've seen so far have been an eye opener. I have watched them each two times so that I could digest and not miss anything that Richard put out.

Like the other videos outputted by Richard and Helen, this one is outstanding. He explains each step in a way that I can easily grasp what it is. I would recommend this to anyone interested in understanding and upping their sharpening game. And this is based on just watching half of it. He also makes sharpening look like it is as easy to do as breathing air. I'm hoping that I'll be able to do it 10% as well as he does. And I'll be happy with that too.

the real time is 1545
I set the clock to the hour count and for the first two hours it ran it was correct. After that I didn't pay attention to it. The next day I noticed that the hour chime was two hours ahead of what the hands indicated. It was also chiming the hour count a couple of minutes past the hour. The partial Westminster tune was playing on the quarter hour even though the hands where off. According to my cell phone though, the chimes and hour count where occurring at the proper times. Even the though clock hands weren't correct.

After the first day I switched from the Westminster chimes to the bim-bam and I was disappointed with them at first. I could barely hear the first hour count when they sounded. Instead of being a 'gong' bim-bam, they have a bell sound which I don't like as much. But as time passed, they seem to get louder and I could hear them and count the hour as they bim-bam'ed..

two problems

The first problem is the hands. They don't fit properly on the time shaft and I think they are slipping. I can move the minute hand 5 minutes in either direction before I feel resistance from the time shaft. It has been running now for two days and the chimes are working correctly but the indicated time is off.

The second problem is the paper dial. Where my finger is has a hump. It is humped in a few other places too but not as high as it is here. The minute rubs on it as it passes by and it looks like the hour hand barely clears it too. I will have to fix these two problems before I try to set the time again.

speaker holders
These are still solid with no give anywhere.  I am a little concerned about the pressure these are exerting on the speaker and the hide glue that is holding them in place.

I will have to take the movement out to fix the dial. Fingers crossed on getting it off without ripping it.

adhesive dot holding the dial in place
I got the dial off without ripping it. What saved my butt was there were only 4 dots holding it down. There was one in each corner.

double sided adhesive dots
I got this dial from clock prints and they recommended fixing the dial to the dial board with these dots. In the past I have used Elmer's white glue diluted with a little water to make a paste and used that to secure dials.

more than 4
I don't know how many of these that I actually used, but I used every single one I had. I don't think I will have to worry about the dial developing humps now.

first use of my veneer roller
Rolled all the dots to ensure that I had good contact. Mark Baldwin made this for me last year (he did the metal parts, I made the wooden handle) and it worked good doing this. I'm sure it will work just as well when I use it on some veneer.

Went looking for my plastic hands but I couldn't find them. Searched the shop and then I searched upstairs. I looked there because I set up the clock while watching the Perry Mason marathon. After searching for a while I gave up without finding them.

interesting look
This is the 4th quarter of 1945 made iron and the scratches on the back tell a story. It is high but I have a low spot in the middle of the high spot. I don't think I'll be flattening this one as easy as Richard did his in chapter 3.

#3 iron
It is almost five o'clock and I didn't want to start to flatten either one of these. Of the two, this one looks like it will be quicker and easier. Both of these will have to wait until the weekend.

found it
I was getting ready to write the blog post and I saw this. I was looking for a empty chow mien container with the clock parts in it. Instead they were in this white box.

fixed the problem
I should have put the parts in a proper box in the first place. If I had I could have put the hands on the clock, as ugly as the plastic hands are, and started round two of setting the time. I'll do it tomorrow instead.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What time is it when 7 bells rings onboard a ship?
answer - 0330, 0730, 1130, 1530, 1930, and 2330

lots of shrpening.......

Mon, 03/20/2017 - 1:55am
I feel like I've taken two steps forward and nine backwards on this sharpening thing. I don't have a warm and fuzzy with it at all. Some aspects of the sharpening I think I understand and I am executing properly. Other parts of it seem to escape my understanding. Some of the steps to the end results were a bit convoluted but I was able to make shavings. So is it the end is justified by the means or the means is justified the end? Or if a tree falls in the forest and you are answering a phone call at the same time, will you hear your neighbor's door bell ring?

minor hiccup
This is the chipbreaker from the LN iron. While I was sharpening the iron and shaking the bench, this fell off and played the drop test with Mr Concrete Floor. He won. The iron lost.

I can't fix this
The other side I was able to remove the ding and roll over on the stones. This here won't stone out so easily even if I could do it. While I was crying about this, I noticed that the opposite corner had a ding in it too. Smaller, but still a ding. Looks like Mr Concrete Floor won by two points.

outlined the scratch area still to be done
I made it smaller but this A2 doesn't like diamond stones. This is taking a lot of time and effort and I'm not getting much to show for it.

lots of ugly looking scratches
5 more minutes of work
It doesn't look like it's getting smaller.

compared to the first pic, it is finally getting smaller
I was doing all this work on the coarsest diamond stone I have. It is supposed to be used to flatten water stones but I am using it for this. I don't know the grit size of it but it isn't removing a lot of this A2 metal.

switched to my 80 grit runway
5 strokes on 80 grit and I got a consistent scratch pattern
10 strokes on the coarse diamond stone
A2 still isn't working well on diamond stones.

stepped down to the coarsest diamond stone
I got a better looking bevel off of this stone.

consistent scratch pattern - not as coarse looking as the 80 grit
back to the coarse diamond stone
what my bevel looks like
I don't get this oval pattern on my O1 irons. Getting rid of this took about ten minutes of stroking back and forth on the stone.

it's shiny
I got a good shine on this but I can still see random scratches across the bevel. That isn't  good thing.

couldn't get rid of all of the scratches
I did raise a burr across the back of the iron and I had one until I removed it on the 8K polishing stone.

going to road test it as is
I like shooting end grain pine for testing. I meant to shoot the opposite end, so I did all four ends.

thin and wispy
smooth as a baby's butt
I have tried to use only O1in this plane but it dulls real quick. The A2 dulls too but not as fast as the O1 does. I had used a Lee Valley A2 iron in here and it lasted over twice as long as the LN A2 did. But I had a lot of adjuster problems with the LV iron so I went back to using LN irons.

other end smoothed
In spite of the scratches, it is working. Ken told me that Richard talks about A2 irons and water stones in later chapters. After this blog post is done, I'll be watching them.

flattening the back
The adventure starts on working iron #2. This is a Stanley iron made in the 2nd quarter of 1945 and I am assuming it's soft tool steel. Five strokes on the coarse diamond stone and I can see I have a hump.

ten strokes on the 80 grit
Before I got to the 80 grit, I made a brief try on the coarsest diamond stone. The results weren't coming any faster there neither.

lunch time
I have tried several different kinds of gloves to protect my hands when I do this type of work. None of them have worked. They either rip and tear themselves into shreds, or they are so thick that I lose all tactile feeling with the iron. This orange stuff and a blue scrubby pad clean up my hands quick and it does a good job of getting all the nasty stuff off.

after 80 grit back to the coarse stone
I have yet to flatten an iron and have it be a quick and easy outing. The coarse diamond stone didn't flatten out the hump. Went back to the 80 grit runway.

still have a hump to flatten
highlighted the problem spots
I don't have side to side scratches covering the black marked areas.

making progress
getting closer

I hope that I am not the only lucky person in this universe that has now spent half an hour flattening the back of an iron. I rounded off the corners on this too. I didn't have any problems doing that.

almost there
I have a faint bit of the black still at the top to remove.

my last  run on 80 grit
still needs more work
I have already spent well almost an hour working on this and this is what I have accomplished so far. This iron is the hardest and longest one I've had to work on so far.  I have another iron like this made in the 4th quarter of 1945 that needs to be flattened too.

20 minutes later
I started to work on the 3 diamond stones after the bulk of the removal with 80 grit.

pits are gone
I had two pits, one on each end of the chipbreaker. A few minutes work on the 80 grit and they were gone. I'll have to remember this and see if I can do this with the other chipbreakers that have pits in them.

before I road test the iron
I didn't have any problems sharpening the iron. Raised my burr and I maintained it until I removed it on the 8K. I sanded the sole of this plane to remove the paint on it before trying out the iron.

nice shavings
I set the iron to take even shavings and I went to town. I got wispy, see through, light and heavy shavings. All of the shavings were full side to side and continuous end to end off the board. I took the iron out and stowed it in the plane iron rack.

took another break
Took another break after the last iron was done and made a road trip to Ocean State junk lot. I went there to get some T-shirts and I saw these. For $11 apiece, I took a chance on them. These are deep throat, heavy duty, 24 inch clamps. The screw threads don't look like heavy acme threads but they aren't wimpy looking neither.

not quite 5" to the center of the screw
They have a 36" size too and if these work out and prove not to be crappola, I'll get a couple of them too.

the iron from the plane with paint on the sole
This is one aspect of sharpening that I can't wrap my head around. I had previously sharpened this iron and I got it set up to sharpen it again the same way I did it previously. This is the coarse diamond stone and I couldn't raise a burr on the iron.

If everything is set up the same way and I'm using a honing guide for repeatability, why can't I raise a burr now? Did the iron somehow get out of sharp in use - the back of the iron wasn't meeting the toe of the bevel at nothing anymore? Or did I sharpen this before this and not get a burr and just went with a shiny bevel? If I had done that I can see me not being able to raise a burr here and now.

I will have to take this from this point forward. I will raise a burr on this and sharpen and hone it. The next time I have to touch it up we'll see if I can get a burr off of the stones.

no detectable burr off of the coarsest diamond stone neither
got my burr off of the 80 grit runway
The small amount of light at the end of the iron is the burr. I could see it and feel it. I went up through the stones and did the road test with no further problems. Before I had sharpened this iron I had made some shavings and they were ok. There wasn't any need to sharpen the iron but I did it anyways. I compared the road test shavings with those and there weren't any dear diary discrepancies.

I still have a ways to go on my sharpening. I would like it to be a 1-2-3 event and then back to woodworking. I think I have a ways to go before that happens.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was Perry Mason's win loss record on his first 7 cases?
answer - 7 straight losses - from Perry himself in the TV Movie 'The Case of the Musical Murder'

clocks and sharpening......

Sun, 03/19/2017 - 3:18am
Didn't get a lot done in the shop today and I may not get much done tomorrow. I got the clock going and I'll need 24 hours before will make any adjustments to it. The sharpening thing is under going a major rethink. The clock was first and then I did some sharpening.

24 hours and ready to unclamp
it's holding
Both sides are sprung a bit for a lack of a better word. They are laying on the speaker at a slight angle. The hide glue seems to be holding well and I think I'm going to forgo the screws for now. They are something that I can add later if need be.

got 3 packages of AAA
Do I have any AA batteries? I have one and I need two of them for the movement. I had to make a quick pit stop at Wally World.

put the batteries in backwards the first time
The polarity for the left hand battery is partially obscured by the pendulum arm. I went around the dial 3 hour rotations and didn't get any chimes or an hour count. A dark sucker (flashlight) showed me the error of my ways. After that I got chimes and the hour count.

fixing the clock upstairs
There is a Perry Mason marathon on and I have to watch it. It isn't the old TV series that ran from 1957 to 1966 but the made for TV movies. I've seen them all a bazillion times but I really like watching them again.

Can we say that this sucks out loud together? Plastic hands for a clock?  Even from far away you can tell that they are plastic. The metal ones I took off the old movement don't quite fit. They are a frog hair too large and they, especially the  hour hand, need to be a snug fit on the time post. If it slips, the time you read will be toast.

it's working
The hour count is correct after running one hour. The chimes are going off every15 minutes with the full Westminster on the hour. Now it's a waiting game to see how well it's running 24 hours from now. I got the old hands on there now because I can't bring myself to put the plastic crap on.

back to sharpening
 A couple of items I have to address and tic off from column A and move to column B. The first is a shiny bevel. For a quite a long time I have taken a shiny bevel as being sharp. The shinier I got it, the sharper I assumed it was. Learned the hard way that this isn't true.

I can have the shiniest bevel in the universe and still have an iron that wouldn't cut wet paper. A sharp iron is where the toe on the bevel goes to nothing meeting the back of the iron. Therefore, I can have a shiny bevel and a dull iron at the same time.

Now we come to the burr. I've been watching sharpening videos a lot lately and 4 or 5 stand out for one thing. These guys only use two stones to sharpen - a coarse stone to raise a burr and a fine stone to polish the bevel. Two of them that come to mind are Rob Cosman and Richard Maguire using the two stone method. The two stones apart, all of the methods I watched raised a burr first.

I kind of realized that I wasn't doing this a few months ago but I don't sharpen that often. And I was out in La-La land being seduced by that shiny bevel. I also think I was under the influence of Mars being in the House of Jupiter. Or is that the other way around?

The burr raised is much more important then the shiny bevel. The burr comes from the zero meeting of the back of the iron and the toe of the bevel. Once I feel a burr straight across I can then get my shiny bevel.

I only sharpen at two angles 25 or 30
I use these two to set the angle of the tool being sharpened in my LN honing guide.

I set the honing guide on the top and drop iron down
the iron rests on an aluminum angle iron
This drop equals a 25° angle with the iron in the honing guide. I used aluminum as the stop because it'll hold up better than a piece of wood.

current stone setup

Coarse, medium, and fine diamond stones with a 8000 Japanese polishing stone.

stropping is last
After I go through them this is the last thing I do before I install it in the plane and road test it.

problem iron
I have already sharpened this iron several times previously using my step up. I have a burr on this iron except for the spot inbetween the two black lines in the middle. I was not able to raise a burr on the coarse diamond stone after several minutes of back and forth. However, I was getting the bevel shiny.

my coarsest diamond stone
This is what Richard Maguire uses as his first stone to raise the burr. I'll be adding this to my sharpening regimen. The first step in the new way is to raise a  continuous burr first on this.

This raises another thought I had on my sharpening method. I am questioning my repeatability with the honing guide. But since I haven't been a good boy and checking for a continuous burr each time, I may be chasing my tail on this. I should establish getting a burr each and everytime I sharpen before I question the repeatable factor with the honing guide.

a few minutes work and I had my continuous burr
I have noticed on some sharpenings when I road tested them, I got shavings with holes in them. I thought is was the wood I was using was the cause. In retrospect, it was most likely a badly sharpened iron that had a flat spot on it.

you can have a shiny bevel and a burr
off the extra fine stone
I can still feel a continuous burr on the back at my next to last stone. The 8K polishing stone is next.

shiny I do like
I like it better now that I have sharp and shiny. I can't see any reflected light on the edge with a magnifying glass.

the 8K removed the burr and the black lines
the chipbreaker has a chip in it
This is what I have and I'll have to work with it as is. I stoned and stropped what I could on it.

LN A2 iron
This iron came out of my LN 51 plane and it was dull. I was barely able to shave powder but the bevel is so damn shiny and sharp looking. I have two LN A2 irons that I use only in the 51. I have two LN O1 irons that I only use in my LN 4 1/2. I find the O1 irons to be much easier to sharpen.

I still don't buy the thick iron PR

It took me a while, but I finally raised a burr across the back of the iron. I went to work on the coarse diamond stone and the top right corner is low. I was a bit larger than this but after a couple of minutes it started to reduce some. I seemed to be stuck on this small spot just staying the same size. If my thinking on this is right, the scratchy spot is low and the rest of the bevel is high. That means I have to take a lot of A2 metal off to level this out.

cleaned it off
LN recommended that I clean the honing guide after each use because I use diamond stones. This is where I'm calling it quits today. I spritzed it with water, wiped it down, and then gave it a aerosol can air bath.

I still have a burr
This brings up another question. I have a continuous burr across the back but it doesn't feel even. It is heavier at the spot where it is low and lighter on the shinier part of the bevel. I'll see what shakes out tomorrow when I finish sharpening this iron.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How much silver is in Sterling Silver?
answer - 92.5% silver and 7.5% other metals, usually copper

maintenance shop day......

Sat, 03/18/2017 - 12:09am
A quick mini rant against Window 10. First let me say I understand the importance of updating my computer. I know how to do it, I know when to do them, and most importantly, I always did them. Not only is Windows 10 trying it's hardest to turn my laptop into a cell phone it has now taken away my ability to install updates when I want to do them.

I have updates set to ask me if it can install an update. It doesn't do that. Instead it installs them without asking me and then tells it is going restart. It happened to me tonight where I got the update installed message and do I want to restart now or later? I picked now to get it over and done with.  37 minutes later it was complete and I could use my computer. This sucks not having this control over my own computer but having to wait and not having use of my computer sucks even more.

a surprise
I had ordered these back in Nov of last year. They were back ordered but I told Lee Valley to ship them when they were available. I got an email wednesday from them saying it had shipped. I had to look up the order because I had forgotten what it was. They came in today.

 I've been told the old nails looked like this
squarish shank with a point
the shank isn't centered on all of the heads
My opinion on nails and furniture changed after I saw a lot of shaker furniture up close and personal at the Shaker village in New Hampshire, the village at Pittsfield Massachusetts, and Pleasant Hills village in Kentucky. I was surprised at how many nails I could easily see in the furniture. There didn't seem to be any attempt to hide them at all. I don't remember them looking like these though.

speaker clamps
They aren't very pretty but they won't be seen and they will secure the speaker in place.

gluing them in place with OBG
my small screw stash
Once the glue has set up I'll add a couple of screws on each side to help hold them down.

my maintenance pile
 I have ten plane irons to sharpen and 5 chipbreakers to fettle. I'll be doing this for a while. The first batter is the chipbreaker for the #8 iron. The iron has been sharpened already and I need to fettle the chipbreaker.

the patent date on this chipbreaker is 1867
I got a flat from side to side and this is ready to road test.

stropped the leading edge
I think getting the leading edge shiny and smooth helps the shavings to easily pass up and over the hump.

nice pile of shavings
no shavings in the space
I wasn't sure if I saw light under the chipbreaker but I made a bucketful of shavings and I don't see any shavings etc in there.

it's a record iron
I have had this iron since I was in the Navy. I don't remember where or how I got it but I finally have a plane to put it in.

which pile is the Stanley and which is the Record?
You can't tell by looking at these which iron made them.

#3 iron
My sharpening education continues. This iron was in the #3 plane and it made good shavings but it felt like it was dulling so I swapped it. I ran it about 10 times on the coarse stone and only felt a small burr on the two corners. Things like this puzzle me. I expected to feel a burr straight across. I'm using a honing guide and I set the projection the way I always do. So why no continuous burr?

bevel is shiny
I'm finding out that this shiny bevel doesn't mean diddly squat. The burr on the back means more than this.

the reason why
The spot where my finger is at has a small flat where the toe of the bevel meets the back. This is also the area where I didn't feel a burr.  Last year I wouldn't have looked nor felt for a burr. I assumed then that I was using a honing guide so I didn't have to. After all, I got a shiny bevel and a shaving coming up from the mouth.

I do have a couple of irons that I get a burr raised on but most I'm finding are like this one. I think I'm going to have to go through each and every iron and re-establish the bevels until I get a continuous burr on all of them.

spokeshave iron
 One side of this iron will make shavings and the other side won't. I have a nice shiny bevel but with a magnifying glass I can flat on the side of the spokeshave that won't make a shaving. I had thought that I wasn't using the right technique with the spokeshave. I thought that was the problem and not the iron not being sharpened properly.

Spokeshave irons I do free hand because they are too small for me to grip with just my fingers. My thanks to Paul Sellers for showing how to make this holder for sharpening these small irons. I still have more to learn about sharpening even though I think I have a lot of knowledge about it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many teeth do turtles have?
answer - none, they have horny beaks similar to birds

retrofitting a clock movement......

Fri, 03/17/2017 - 12:13am
I am finally getting around to fixing this clock. It is one of two that I have to replace the movements in.  The two movements that I'm replacing were expensive with the two of them costing over $200.  They are/were total crap.  Both kept time but neither of them bim-bam'ed once. Come the first DST change, both clocks went south and stopped keeping time.

I have been making clocks for over 40 years and the quality of the movements available today I would put a step below junk. My favorite seller told me that quartz movements today are only good for 2 years, maybe. I made 27 clocks in the same way that Paul Sellers did for his first woodworking video. Out of those 27 movements, I have had nine movement failures.  All of the movements were made in China.

I know there were quality, long lasting quartz movements for sale once. I have a kitchen clock I made in 1995 that is still running, keeping perfect time. I had a wall clock I made in 1996 (my wife's brother owns it now) that is still running. That movement is still available but instead of having 3 chime rods, it only comes with 2 now. And the cost of it has doubled.

The movements I am using now are German made and cost about $90. They have bim-bam chimes (my favorite) and Westminster with night silence. They have a 3 year warranty which is way better than the chinese ones. I hope that these work out because I have run out of sources to get decent quartz movements.

fingers crossed on this
This is a first for me. I have never removed and put it in a replacement pendulum movement before.

potential problem area
The set back for the pendulum is the make or break point. The replacement movement will work without a pendulum and still bim-bam. I don't have that much meat to remove at the front of the slot. At the back I don't have that problem. This movement will be smashed flat with a sledge hammer once I take it out.

it fits
The pendulum has about 1/8" clearance but I wish I had a wee bit more. The important thing is that it fits in the original slot. I will look at it later and see if I can get a rasp in there and make some wiggle room.

big, easy to read instructions
I glanced over the time setting instructions and they were crystal clear. Some of these movements have instructions that you need a Shaman to decipher them.

not happening
The wire isn't long enough to have the speaker on the door and open and close it. I could splice some longer wires but I'm reluctant to do that. I still have bad memories of soldering wires back on the two movements I'm replacing. I'll have to find another spot to mount the speaker

brass cap nut
For some reason there were two clock accessory bags with this movement. I dropped one brass nut on the deck and I'm lucky I have another one.

sometimes you get lucky
The deck is littered with plane shavings and I found it after looking for it for just a few seconds.

transferring some lines
The instructions say that a series of 1/4" holes drilled in a 2 3/8" diameter circle can then have the speaker mounted over them. I drew a 2 3/8" circle on the inside bottom and I transferred the outside of that circle onto the bottom. Once I had that I drew another 2 3/8" circle on the bottom within those lines.

right over my brand
the ring that will secure the speaker in place

another hiccup
The real estate I have for the speaker ring is less than it's diameter. I don't want to put this forward and potentially hit the pendulum. I marked the overhang and filed it off.

circle only has 2 1/2 not 2 3/8
laid out a grid and drilled 1/4" holes
filed it - no problems doing it
piss ant sized screws
Three of these are used to hold the speaker retaining ring in place.

two screwed in
I had to take the movement out in order to get the top screw in. I did that and when I tightened it down, the other two screws popped out. I'm going to have to come up with another way to secure the speaker. I can't leave it loose on the bottom of the clock.

what I came up with
I marked the outside of the speaker on the edge of this piece of 1/8" plywood. I then traced a line parallel to that 1/8" over to the right of that line. I had to do that so the 1/2" circle would fit over the lip that is on the speaker. I had to quit here because Mickey's big had was on 12 and his little hand was on five. I'll pick this back up tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the average heart rate of an elephant?
answer - 25-30 beats a minute

opining on sharpening......

Thu, 03/16/2017 - 12:22am
Before I get into my thoughts on this subject I have to put out a disclaimer. I am not the brightest bulb on the xmas tree when it comes to sharpening. It is something that I have only started to pick up on and understand in the last 4-5 years. I owe a lot to the level of sharpening I am now getting to Chris Schwartz and more recently to Paul Sellers. Between the three of us, I've settled into a routine with my sharpening, that good, bad, or indifferent, I seem to be doing ok with.

I watch a lot of sharpening videos and I read just about every single post I come across to find some nugget that will make me rich. So far it hasn't happened. I am still learning so much about sharpening that my head hurts. I thought that I had it down pat but each time I sharpen something, be it a chisel or plane iron, it is a learning experience for me all over again. I am accumulating a lot of experience and it doesn't look like I will ever be able to say I know enough and I now can do this by rote. In fact when I do it by rote, I usually end up OTL (out to lunch).

Some observations I have gathered in my sharpening education. Firstly, it seems that you have to do your sharpening by hand. No jigs allowed. Sharpening by hand supposedly brings a freedom that you lose once you put a tool to be sharpened in a honing guide. Free hand sharpening is quick and allows you to get your edge and get back to work. It seems you lose all this with a honing guide.

What of the people with arthritis? What do these people do in this situation? I am one of them and free hand sharpening means I don't do any woodworking if I do 2 or more sharpenings. My fingers hurt too much after. However, if I use a honing guide I can sharpen all day long and be relatively pain free when I'm done.

Honing guides are something that have been around for quite a while. I have never seen an old catalog that had page after page of different models for sale. But I have seen singles in old catalogs dated as early as the 1850-60 time frame. So even where free hand sharpening ruled, there was someone trying to reinvent the wheel.

Sharpening isn't a fun thing to do. If you do enjoy it I think your brain cells are oxygen deprived somehow. Sharpening can be monotonous, messy, and royal PITA to do. Sharpening involves a certain amount of time that we would rather devote to working wood. Giving up that time for these dance steps isn't easy.

I think time is the crux of all sharpening methods. With all I've seen and read I haven't seen anything to make one method or one type of sharpening medium stand out from the crowd. What I see and hear is this way is quick, or it is the most efficient, and it takes almost no time to do it. You'll get the sharpest edge you have ever gotten.

What I don't hear is if you use these stones you can shave the peach fuzz off an atom. If you use my patented method your edge will stay sharp until Halley's comet comes around again. No way, no method, no person has said anything about sharpness lasting. No one says that this is the one and only way to get a super duper sharp edge that will last forever.

Instead what I see and read is about the ruler trick and micro bevels. You have to sharpen on this water stone and diamond stones are utter crap. Only ceramic stones will give you a scratch free bevel. And if you use brand XYZ you must be a professional woodworker. Just look at my bevel under an electron microscope. See how the atoms are spinning counter clockwise? You only get that if you use the scary sharp system free hand. If you don't, they don't spin as fast and the edge won't be as sharp. All these tricks, micro bevels etc to me are geared toward saving time and not necessarily for getting sharp.

Putting all this aside I think of what Tage Frid said about woodworking. I'm paraphrasing but  he said I don't care if you used your teeth to make it, it's the finished piece that matters. I think what he said applies to sharpening too. How you sharpen or what you use to sharpen doesn't really matter. Are you able to plane and chisel wood easily and cleanly once you say the edge is sharp?

The old masters didn't have the mind boggling choices for sharpening that we have today. When I look at the furniture that they made then (1700-1800) and what they had to use to keep their tools sharp, I am in awe of what they accomplished.

My take on sharpening is I know it is going to take time. I will have to stop whatever I'm doing and I know that I'll be spending xxx amount of precious time not woodworking. I will do it with the method that has been working for me and giving me results I like.

That is the crux of sharpening for me. Freehand or with a guide doesn't matter. You choice of sharpening medium doesn't matter. 1 micron shavings or thick ones doesn't matter. What matters is the sharpness you get from your efforts and if that works for you.

To me getting a tool sharp is just that. The main focus is getting the edge as sharp as I can and have it last as long as it can. Time is secondary to that. My skill level at sharpening will dictate how long I  need to do it. With each outing I'm gaining experience and the time factor is decreasing. So put on some music and sharpen that pile.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is alloyed with steel to make it stainless?
answer - chromium

big bust.......

Wed, 03/15/2017 - 12:15am
The big snow storm didn't materialize. It didn't even come close to what the forecasters predicted. It snowed for a few hours but not heavily and then turned to rain. Mostly a sleet/rain mixture with lots of wind. If this stuff now on ground freezes, I'll be able to skate to work. When I shoveled my driveway, it was the heavy heart attack snow and I got to do in a pelting rain sleet mixture. Two wonderful hours in my life I want to forget.

My view looking out into my back yard. The expected snow was no where to be seen. It didn't start coming down for another hour or so.

setting up for mitering
not working
I am getting 45° on the cuts but they aren't mating well. The thickness of the two pieces is slightly off. There isn't anyway these two will close up tight and form a 90° corner. I cut off the bottom of the L and that evened up the pieces. I had already rough cut the miters and I then squared them off because I was going to butt joint them. One piece came out too short so the molding idea went south.

out with the old and in with the new
I'm scrapping the plywood and starting over with solid wood.  I'll make the first one out of pine (this is the only pine I have). On saturday I'll make a run to Pepin Lumber and get a few boards.

test run
I'm making a practice lid to see if I can make one without blowing out something. Planing the bevel and the flat on one edge is first.

rabbets are next
get a ridge
This rabbet was planed against the grain and I didn't adjust the 10 1/2 to plane on this side.

cleaned it up with the bullnose plane
done and with no blowouts
I don't see any problems doing lids this way. I thought I might have had a hiccup with the molding plane because one side was against the grain. I took my time on that and tried to keep my passes as shallow as possible. It paid off.

6/8 tongue and groove planes
I've had these for a while and my last outing with them didn't yield good results. I think it's time to try them again.

I didn't do any work on the irons
 I tried these right out of the box and the tongue and groove was toast. The two boards didn't mate together so I put the planes away.

they fit
This is something I should have done when I got them but didn't. I am learning that most molding planes I buy aren't ready to go right out of the box. I flattened the backs and sharpened both irons.

made the tongue first
The plane got a bit hard to push about 1/2 way mark on this board. I waxed the plane and that helped some but it was still hard for 1/2 of it. Looking back on it I should have planed the paint off rather then scrapping it.

plowed the groove

went through this knot like it wasn't there

The T&G fit is good and it just a few frog hairs shy of being flush.

it is a snug fit
A billion percent improvement over my last attempt. I think some of the other problems I solved with my other molding planes paid off here.

I was expecting more room underneath the tongue
Both planes bottomed out and stopped making shavings. Maybe on the next try I can extend the groove iron deeper.

decorative edges

3/8 astragal
bevel plane
This plane only does a bevel (chamfer). It is minimally adjustable and will bottom out. It has a spring line but I'm not sure what the true purpose of this plane is. This basically makes a chamfer and there were purposely made chamfer planes. I think this cost me $10 and it was one of the first molding planes I added to the herd. It will not plane against the grain nor will it do end grain. It worked making a chamfer here and I'll just have to wish on knowing the why on it.

5/8 tongue and groove
it fits
I don't have any 5/8" stock so I set these aside for now and moved on. I will come back to it if and when I get some 5/8 stock.

7/8" tongue and groove planes
These are the best made T&G planes that I have. All the wear surfaces have iron on them and this is the way I received them. Whoever owned them before me, took very good care of them.(I shined them up)

they match up
I bought these because eventually I plan on using 7/8" stock to make things. 7/8" was the thickness back then whereas 3/4" is now.  I don't have any 7/8" but I did try these out on 15/16" thick stock. They worked good with the T&G being slightly offset from center.

5/8" tongue and groove

one of these, or both don't belong to either plane
#1 and #2 grooving plane irons
Either of these two match up with the tongue iron. Both of them are too wide.

they are marked 5/8
next T&G planes - irons line up
These planes were sold to me as being 1/2" but they aren't.

I haven't done any work on the irons
where the size confusion is
At the bottom right on both planes I can see and make out a /2.   I can't find a trace of a #1 over the /. Up at the right below the step, is 5/8.  It is marked with the /2 and 5/8 in the same spots on the groove plane. I think this is why I was told they were 1/2" because the 5/8 was covered with grunge. I had to scrape the heel to see it.

half inch stock
This isn't a 1/2" T&G plane. The groove is too far over for this plane to be 1/2".

better centering of the groove on 3/4" stock
fits, not quite flush, and the groove is deeper than the tongue.
pretty close on the flush
It is slightly off center which I would expect with a 5/8" plane. The tongue is tapered and the bottom of the groove is slanted.It leans to the right and the boards didn't line up flat.

the iron end is square

the iron is twisted?
I noticed this when I was flattening the back. The back isn't square to the sides (the sides have a slight taper to them). There is a definite tilt to the right with this iron flat on the board. When it is inserted into the plane it is cocked and the business edge of the plane is slanted. That is why the groove bottom is slanted. I didn't think much of it because the groove bottom will never be seen nor would it effect the fit of the T&G.

This was my fun in the shop for today. I stopped to go shovel the driveway and that wore me out. After that adventure I spent the rest of day watching Richard Maguire's sharpening videos.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What are the only two words in the english language that contain all the vowels, including y, in alphabetical order?
answer - facetiously and abstemiously

the big snow storm eve......

Tue, 03/14/2017 - 3:14am
It looks like old man winter is going out with a bang. The snow level forecasted has dropped from 20" plus to 12 to 15 inches. Gee, that sure makes me feel better. There is also a blizzard warning in effect and I can't remember the last time I heard that one. The fun is scheduled to start around 0600 and run until Mother Nature runs out of the white stuff.

dry fit
The side rabbet planes are fairly stable and there is very little wiggle room in all directions. The skate is a snug fit in the bottom pine piece. There is little room for them to move side to side before they would hit the depth shoe screw or the cherry knob. The center divider is an 1/8" below the top of the front and the cherry knobs are exactly 2 frog hairs below that. I think that even if I turned the box upside down the planes won't come out of the bottom with the skate slots in them.

flushing the  tails
I'm cleaning the box up and I like to use the chisel to first flush all the tails and pins that are proud. Once I knock that out, I plane the 4 sides.

need two more shims
After I got the box planed, I found two more gaps between the pins and tails that I had to shim.

last one to fill
All my half pins came out crappy. Two of them had some huge gaps in them. (I consider this here a huge gap.) This was caused by me taking too many swipes with a chisel to clean them up. I should have left them as they came off the saw. Which is what I usually do.

sawing the last thin shim
won't be too fat for long
I've been watching Tage Frid videos on you tube lately and I saw him doing this. He was plugging a gap in a tail/pin and his shim was too fat. He kept hitting it with a hammer until it fit. This should close up this gap nicely. The hammer compressed the wood to fit and the glue will swell them back up for a tight fit.

partial gap to fill
This tail was missing a chip and it only went 1/2 way.  Can you see the plugs in the two top inboard corners of the top tails? The left one is easier to pick out and the right one is a pretty good match.

new pine lid
The box is made out of the bookcase I broke apart except for the 1/8" plywood bottom. The first rectangle in the front will be the new lid once I saw it out.

flattening a new way
First up I'm going to roughly flatten this board by first removing the hump on this side. After the hump is gone I'll remove the wings on the other side. Then I'll assess the board and move on from there.

knot or something funky here
I don't know what this is
If I plane across this going with the grain, the plane skims right over it barely taking a whisper of a shaving. It feels hard to the touch too. If I go against the grain, even at a skew, I tear out chunks of wood. There isn't any way I'll be planing a rabbet in this. This lid is burnt toast.

lid #3
I'm clear of the knot here, leaving me a board wider and longer than I need.

it's twisted
it's cupping
I removed the twist and flattened it. I set it on the bench and made a nature call. When I came back it had cupped this much. This is the lid and I don't trust this to not move any more than this. Lid #3 is toast too.

back to the old kitchen cabinet wood
I don't have any more big pieces of pine to use for the lid. I don't want to glue up two boards so I'm using the first choice I made.

planing the rabbets first
My last couple of boxes I made the rabbet around a 1/2" wide. This time I am making it a 1/8" wider than the depth of the groove. I used my 10 1/2" to make the rabbets which are the smallest ones I made to date. I didn't find these small ones anymore difficult than the others I've done.

just noticed this when getting the lid width
entry end
exit end
opposite side entry
opposite side exit
Both rabbets aren't square but at this stage that isn't necessary.  What I did good on was planing the rabbets flat and straight end to end. I left the pencil line and one rabbet sloped down and away from it into the the shoulder. That could have been a problem but wasn't.

After I planed down to the pencil lines, I squared up the rabbets. I started with the shoulders first and did the flats that go in the grooves when I fitted them.

bit of a gap
I think the chip missing on the left hand groove threw off my measurements. I got both flats sliding into the grooves.

starting to bind with a little more than an inch left to close
I planed a bit off both edges at the back and kept at that until the lid slid in and out freely.

blew out this corner
I can't seem to remember to back this up. This is the 4th lid I've done this to. Maybe I should plane the bevel on the end first before I do the rabbets or anything else.

any scrap will do
Kind of like closing the barn door after the horse got out. This scrap doesn't have to fit rabbet exactly, just as long as it held tight to the shoulder as I plane this bevel.

cleaning up the bevel
The 51 iron is either dull or it didn't like planing this wood. The bevel was all tore out side to side.  The 102 made it pretty.

will it work?
It looks like I have sufficient room to get the bead before the plane bottoms out. If there isn't, I'll be starting over again.

I had enough room
couldn't remove all of it
flushing the bottom
With this last planing step, all the woodworking on the box is complete.

forgot the thumb grab
Now, there is no more woodworking left to be done.

I like this gap
This looks much better and it is a close match to the groove on the inboard side of the bead.

one of the last boxes I made
 This one has a wide rabbet that runs in the groove. I can see two things to change with this. First is to close the distance and make the rabbet smaller. Secondly, doing that will make this a bit stronger. That is a thin rabbet that could easily be snapped off and broken.

made this the same time as the one above
I think I found my signature for boxes. Do a bevel with a flat on the front of the lid. Check.  Plane an astragal and a small rabbet. Check.  Round over the top end of the groove at the front and everyone will know it's something I made. Check.

warming up the OBG
glued the bottoms in place with the OBG
Rather than center them in the dividers, I got them both tight to the top and the center divider.

first coat tonight, second and last one tomorrow
branded and dated
After I get the second coat on, I'll spray a couple of coats of lacquer on this to seal it.

I got a late start in the shop today. My cataracts are acting up on me and they changed the prescription on my glasses. The doc said that they will do this but they aren't bad enough yet to rip out. Before I went to the shop I had to wait for the pupil dilator to wear off and that took 5 hours. 

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a sporran?
answer - The pouch worn on Scottish Highlander kilts

side rabbet plane box........

Mon, 03/13/2017 - 2:31am
Had another good day and I got a few things done. Fell into the same rut this afternoon where I was doing the nodding game. This time I actually checked the inside of the peepers for light leaks for a short while. Went back to shop and since the idiot DST started this AM, I left the shop at 1700 although the clock said 1600.

The plan for today was to set the sink cabinet and call it a day. Tomorrow I have my annual eye exam and I was going to do that last cabinet after that. The sink cabinet went in lickety split for me so I did the last one too. The only hiccup was trying to find a stud to screw the cabinet backs into to. I drilled a lot of holes trying to find them.

From the corner cabinet stud to the first sink stud was 14 1/2" and the next stud was 15". The lone screw into a stud in the last cabinet was 16" OC .

I also had to shim the front of both cabinets up over a 1/2". I thought the floor sloped down into the middle but I was wrong on that. The floor is high on this wall and it slopes down and away straight into the opposite wall. Nothing in this house surprises me anymore.

typewriter desk has set up
This may be too small in the length. The keyboard is 18" and the desk is 24", I'm not sure if I'll be happy with so little real estate to move the mouse on.

side molding
the back molding
Undecided on whether or not to miter this corner or use a butt joint. Since I dislike miters, the butt joint may be the lead off batter.

the would be drawer fronts
After thinking about the drawers I nixed them. There is a 2 1/2" overhang to clear before I would see the inside of a drawer. The depth is roughly 10" so by time I get one made I won't have a lot of usable space. I still like the idea of drawers on this so I will keep this in mind for when I make the bigger stand up desk.

only three small glue blobs
This is a carbide tipped scraper that works wonders on removing dried glue. I cleaned up the poplar and the plywood without any tear outs on either of them.

flushed the back
There was a slight bump in the middle with the rest of it being flush. I set this aside because I didn't feel like mitering it. I'll pick this back up tomorrow after my eye doctor appointment.

plowing the lid groove
I spent about 20 minutes making test grooves to see how they lined up. This time I picked the one that lined up right on the pencil line.

I didn't try
The top of the groove is too close to the tail and in order to keep that nick free this would have had to been worked like the stopped groove. Went with plowing straight through and nicking the tail.

I did look at placing the tail out of the way when I did the layout but I didn't like the look. This is a situation where I think laying out the tails and pins over rides a groove running through it.

it is a small hole
Once this is plugged I think you would be hard pressed to pick them out.

laying out the center divider
The second line from the top will the width of the divider and the line on the pin board is the top of the dado.

sawing off the line and planing to the line
first dado done
it's taken me a while
When I first started making dadoes with hand tools I really struggled trying to master it. I still have an occasional hiccup but most the time now I get this. This is the goal I shoot for when I do them.

wee bit short
I thought I had carefully measured this and worked off my knife lines but I missed something. I'm not sure what I did wrong but I'm off the depth of one dado. I think I failed to add both dado depths when I figured out the length. The second one fit with no gaps.

plugged the holes
Along with the holes, I had to glue shims in two tails to close up gaps. I sent the box aside by the furnace to cook overnight.

holder for the side rabbet planes
I started out making this by sawing and then chiseling it out. That wasn't working to well and was taking a lot of time. It also wasn't coming out as clean as I wanted.

switched to plan #2
The first step in plan #2 was to drill a series of holes.

last step - use a coping saw to remove the waste
chisel work to clean up the slot
it fits
It is standing upright on it's own. I made the slot a 1/16" wider then the width of the skate at it's widest point. I was expecting this to be a bit on the tippy side.

don't need it now
I was planning on putting a U shaped holder underneath the knob to counter the anticipated tipsiness. Don't need to do that now but it is something I can add in the future if need be.

I can glue this back together and still use it. These aren't going to be subjected to any stress so even though it's pine, I think it is ok to use.

where they will live
I'll spot glue these in each side with hide glue. I made both of them an 1/8" shorter in the width and length than the divided space. I don't think wood movement will be a concern but it doesn't hurt to err on the side of caution.

found a lid
This is big enough to get a lid out of it. It is from my old kitchen cabinets but it doesn't match up with the pine I used on the rest of the box. I have more of the pine I used for the box and I may change this. I will take a look at this again when I plane and clean up the box.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Which US state has had the most tornadoes?
answer - Texas, Kansas is second and Oklahoma is third

good day in the shop......

Sun, 03/12/2017 - 5:05am
I stayed in the shop until almost 1800 today. It's been a very long time since I've done that. I was sitting at my desk doing nothing and nodding out. I had something glued up and the excuse I was using was I had to wait for it set up. Since I didn't want to nap, I got up off my fat ass and waddled down to the shop. Turned out to be a good thing and I got a lot accomplished after that.

after dinner friday night
I glued up the two bridle joint leg assemblies for the typewriter desk so I could work on it today.

marked these wrong
I wasn't thinking when I marked the faces of these pieces getting the slot mortise and I didn't need to do that.

erased them when I did a 6 sided clean up

squared up the ends of the typewriter plywood
layout batting next
At this point, I still hadn't decided on how I wanted to fix the legs to the plywood. Initially I wanted to be able to take it apart or hinge the legs somehow to fold it flat. Too much of a headache to do and it's mostly because of the thinness of the plywood. If it was 3/4" thick I would have tried a few of my ideas.  I still have to brace the leg assemblies somehow but now it'll be a permanent fix.

half lap this onto the leg assemblies
I could then glue this to the underside of the plywood. I like this but I am thinking of putting in drawers and this would be in the way.

idea # 4,569
Gluing an extra piece of wood to the leg assembly and then gluing all that to the plywood once the first one has dried. Doing that would increase the glue surface area and make it stronger. This wouldn't interfere too much with my drawers but I scrubbed this one too.

making rabbets
Decided to go with a brace at the back with the leg assemblies glued into the rabbets.

shoulders were a bit out of square
just glue
If I were to screw this from the back of the rabbet into the leg, I would be hitting end grain. I think glue alone will be good enough for this. I don't anticipate moving this once it is on my desk at work.

going with this
Briefly entertained putting a stepped rabbet here to hide the end grain. But it won't be easy to see once it is in use.

glue along
The thickness of the plywood dictates that this be a glue only connection. I glued the back brace to the plywood and the long grain portion of the leg to plywood too.

the back brace will hide 99% of the tear out here

gluing it up in steps
Step one is gluing the back brace. Once this has had a chance to set up for a few hours, the plan was to glue the legs on.

This is where I stopped and got some lunch. After lunch I was 'waiting' for the glue to set up and started playing the nodding game.

moldings for the desk
I glued the legs on to the plywood and flipped it over. I ripped out these from a scrap of  1/2" oak.

these will be glued to the plywood hiding the edges
flat piece for the back
The back brace is flush with the back edge so the L shape molding won't fit there. I am going with this flat piece just to complete the molding on all four edges.

needed some bullnose work
There were some ridges on one half of this. I removed them out with the bullnose plane.

on a roll
Decided to start on the box for holding my LN side rabbet planes. The dimensions of this box are pretty much the same as the cardboard box they came in. I added a 1/2" or so for the joinery and the lid and bottom.

tails laid out
getting rid of my training wheels
This gizmo makes a kerf that is the same width as the kerf of my dovetail saw. Made it easier to get the top cut square across. I'm confident that I can saw square now and I don't need this.

it is working
This is the first time I have used this bench hook and it didn't move on me. I set it with this mallet. This is the first time I've used a mallet to set the hook.

what I normally use
I have to whack the crap out of this for it to hold. It is a crap shoot and it almost always slips on me as I chop the tails and pins.

it usually slips this way
It is very annoying to be pushing into the wood and it slips and moves laterally on you. I chopped both the tails and the pins and it didn't slip or move once. The first time that has happened for me. I was planning on not putting holes for these on my new bench but I'll reconsider it now. I'll be using the mallet again to see if it still works and it wasn't a fluke.

This is what I get for being lazy. When I did the layout on the pin board, I did it twice and ended up with two lines on this tail. Instead of erasing them, I thought I would mark the one I needed to saw on. I didn't mark the correct one and I didn't saw on the right one.

flushed the bottom so I can groove it
making a stopped groove
This part of the groove I can end to end. I do have to be careful on this end that I stop before I hit the tail. I did that on this one.

missed it on this one
I did get an 'aw shit' out but it didn't help. I nicked the top of this tail.

only a small chunk missing

stopped groove ends
These two will get the stopped groove. I plowed what I could and this is mostly a guide line for laying out the rest of the groove.

first marking gauge
I set this so that the back of the disc is up against the top wall of the groove. I ran that from stop line to stop line.

2nd marking gauge
I set this one to bottom wall coming from the top of the board. I did it this way so the flat part of the disc was against the wall and the beveled part was in the waste part of the groove.

needed a third gauge
The front piece is a 1/2" narrower so I couldn't use the 2nd marking gauge. I set this one the same way as the other two. Having the partial groove made by the plow plane helped a lot  with setting these 3 marking gauges.

chiseled the stops at both ends first
made it about 3/8" long
I didn't want the chisel to slip and blow out the end. 3/8" worked ok giving me an adequate safety factor.

it wasn't that difficult to do
The biggest challenge I found in doing this was holding the chisel correctly. Because it is so small it took some concentration to make sure that I wasn't skewing it left or right and that the bevel was flat on the bottom of the groove.

first one done
pretty clean
I tried hard to keep the top edge of the groove clean and tear out free.  My first try and I'm pretty happy with the result.

the plywood fits
partial dry fit
The groove on the left was done with the plow plane and the right one with a chisel. The right one is tight and clean and the left one is a bit gappy. Acceptable, but it doesn't look like the plow plane one.

bottom finally fitted
This is bottom #2. Bottom #1 became too narrow while I was trying to fit it. #2 took me over 30 minutes to fit but I finally got it.

I'll fit this divider tomorrow
After I get this fitted, I can glue this up.

lesson learned
I didn't realize it but this box is almost a square. Two of the sides are a few ticks over an 1/8". That led me to trim the wrong side on bottom #1. On bottom #2 I marked one side and one side of the box to keep me straight on what to trim.

Unless you live in Arizona or some other sensible state, today it spring ahead on the clocks. And the rumor on tuesday's snowfall is 20"

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first ML ballplayer to win a batting title in 3 different decades?
answer - George Brett did it in 1976, 1980, and 1990

more of the white stuff........

Sat, 03/11/2017 - 1:03am
It is now the second week of March and the forecast called for a boatload of the white stuff to fall. Nothing came overnight and nothing started coming down here until 0600. The 3-5 inches was a big bust. Maybe a couple of inches fell but nothing stuck to the roads or sidewalks. We escaped the doom and gloom all the weather forecasters said was coming but we're not out of the woods. Winter still hasn't gone home and more snow is supposedly coming on tuesday. And it's going to be cold all weekend going into tuesday.

it's lumber core
This is an old kitchen door and I noticed this after the second cut.  It's a multiple wood strip door covered with a thick veneer on the front and back. That makes using this to make the legs useless.  It would as strong as a house of cards in this direction.

long ones are toast
I got the idea to make horizontal cuts on the doors giving stock with the grain running parallel to the long way. The concept was good but the execution sucked. Both short pieces are two long grain glued pieces. I didn't saw on the glue line. Trying to do that would be a huge PITA to accomplish.

I put the doors aside and used a couple pieces of 1x4 poplar to get the legs. I am doing most of this work on the tablesaw to whack this out as quickly as I can. At this point I was bit delusional thinking I could get this done to take it to work tomorrow.

layout done
I am using bridle joints because I can do all of the saw cuts in a tenon jig on the tablesaw. The slot mortise is the first batter.

outside cuts done
I tried to remove that web in middle with a chisel but it wasn't happening. The poplar proved to be a wee bit tougher than the 1/8" chisel I was using. I went back to the tablesaw and removed it with that.

sawing the shoulder
I sawed the shoulder by hand and I did the cheeks on the tablesaw in the tenon jig. I used this to set up the tenon jig so I could do all the others. I did the cheeks on the other side of this one and then sawed the shoulders. I had to do a bit of trimming to clean the shoulders. Much better sawing the shoulders first and then the cheeks.

last of the shoulder cuts, cheeks next

it's the law
You have to keep all the cheek off cuts until the bridle joints are glued.

one frame dry fitted
The top right corner is bit off and I'll have to trim that one. Other than that, the fit of bridle joints is ok and will glue up nicely.

typewriter and mouse desk
I made this taller than my guess-ta-mate measurements. I wanted the top of the desk to be 6" up and this is 6 3/8".  If I do have to shorten this I will take an equal amount off both ends of each of the legs.

I hadn't thought this far ahead in this build. How am I going to attach the legs to the bottom of the desk? I also have to come up with a way to stabilize the legs. They are going to need something to keep them from folding inwards or outwards.

Keeping the legs at 90° to bottom I don't think I'll have problems coming up with something. Attaching the legs to the bottom will take some thinking. This plywood is 3 frog hairs below a 1/2" and that isn't a lot of meat to screw into.

I won't be taking this to work tomorrow so I'll have time to figure something out. Now it's time to get ready to go out for fish 'n chips.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Ray Tomlinson?
answer - he is regarded as the inventor of email

citrus acid bath results........

Fri, 03/10/2017 - 12:32am
I feel like a lady trying to choose between two pairs of shoes. I like Evaporust but the more I use citrus acid, the more I'm liking it. I think this latest bath has pushed more over into the citrus acid bath camp. I do think that the both of them have a use in my shop. Evaporust for items that are going to be sitting idle for long periods of time is the way to use that. Tools I'm rehabbing to put back into daily use, citrus acid is the first batter.

0330 this morning
I did this one before I went to work this morning. I took it out, rinsed it off well, and sanded it lightly with 220 sandpaper. I raised a bit of shine which I like and then I wiped it down with jojoba oil.

the other side
There are a couple of blemishes/pits at the bottom that looked like deep rust pockets but they aren't. I expended extra calories sanding these two areas and nothing rusty came of it. Both sides are smooth to the touch and I couldn't detect any bumps anywhere. Leaving these in acid always makes me think the citrus acid is going to eat holes in the metal and leave it rough.

what I saw tonight
The water has taken on a slight greenish tint but other this, it looks like I left it yesterday. And the metal didn't seem to have been effected by this 24 hour bath.

ready to finish cleaning
I dumped the citrus acid in the driveway on a oil stain. I rinsed off all the parts well with hot water in the bathroom sink (I need to put a utility sink in the cellar). I also rinsed out the container with hot water and filled it up and put the parts back in it. They shouldn't rust while awaiting their turn to be cleaned.

#8 chipbreaker is the first batter
I sanded all the parts going in the long direction of the them. I only used 220 grit sandpaper. 320 and 400 was too fine and 180/150 left too large of a scratch pattern.

best I could do
The Damascus steel look at the top is what the rust had previously did to the metal. Someone had cleaned this before I got it. It is relatively smooth to the touch with only a few scattered bumps.

this side was completely rusted at one time
This can be still used as it is. All this rust damage won't effect it's ability to be a chipbreaker.

FYI tip
Citrus acid in an open cut burns and hurts like hell. So don't stick it in the citrus acid water.

final clean up
After I sanded the chipbreaker, I washed it with the orange cleaner. The last step was a few squirts of jojoba oil and rub down with the blue rag.

file work
This chipbreaker showed some signs of mushrooming caused by a hammer. I filed it to remove the slight ridges.

this was badly rusted at one point
smooth as a baby's butt
#4 iron before shot

other side before shot
the after shot
the 2nd after blurry shot
Not a good pic but there is no mistaking that this cleaned up rather well.

this bevel edge is chewed up a bit
It will take extra time to remove the chips but they aren't that deep or numerous.

the other #4 iron
Someone had recently sharpened this. From the look of it I would guess that it was done with a honing guide.

will it work on the screw?
It got it cleaner than what I had done with just a wire brush. This stuff works much better on brass though and excels on my stainless steel pots and pans.

This is the chipbreaker for a #4 and it has way too much spring or separation between it and the iron.

it is making shavings
I was able to screw the chipbreaker down to the iron but I don't think that I'll be using it. It is working ok but I don't like the force I had to exert to screw it down.

someone before me did this
Someone did some work on the leading edge of the chipbreaker. There is one chip that is stuck between the chipbreaker and the iron. I can't see any light but this shaving managed to work it's way between the two.

it fits now
Without the two being screwed together, it wouldn't fit in the slot. (It's the 4th one up from the bottom) It is a snug fit screwed together.  Look at the gap that is there compared to the other setups. This chipbreaker is toast.

computer desk stock
I am going to use the old kitchen cabinet doors to get the legs for the desk from. Cleaning up the plane parts ate up all my time in the shop tonight. It doesn't look like I'll have anything to bring to work on saturday but maybe the next one.

We are supposed to get a snow storm tomorrow. 1-3 inches falling from about midnight until dawn. Then a break and 2-4 more inches ending around noontime. Sounds like lots of fun.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What player restriction is in effect in both polo and jai alai?
answer - no left handed players allowed

plane parts........

Thu, 03/09/2017 - 12:30am
The chipbreakers and irons that I ordered came in today. When I checked the tracking number at lunchtime it said they were coming on thursday. My haul looked pretty good and I'm sure it'll clean up nicely. I have also made a U turn on the next project. I wanted to start that tonight but the plane parts came first.

what I ordered
I needed two #3 chipbreakers, a #4 chipbreaker, and a #8 chipbreaker. I have the irons for all of these and that gives me complete set ups to swap out. They don't look that bad and only seem to have superficial rust spots here and there.

mating irons waiting for the chipbreakers to be cleaned up
#4 iron
My last iron I got was so badly pitted that it is useless. There is just rust blooms and no evidence of pitting anywhere on this #4 iron. And it has a good deal of life left to it.

bevel on the other side
The bevel is not in good shape. I don't think there anything here that I won't be able to sharpen out.

second iron
The business end of the iron looks much better than the first one did. But the top end of it, on both sides, is very grungy looking. It doesn't appear to be rust but we'll see what the sandpaper does on it. This iron has lots of life left in it too. I doubt that I'll use up this much before I leave this earth.

two #4 irons
Both irons are stamped with numbers, one has 245 and other one 445. The tops have the Stanley logo on it and I've never seen another Stanley iron stamped like this before.  Things like this raise my curiosity level as to why?

40 minutes later

They are all sanded down removing all visible rust. The only one I didn't have to do was the #4 chipbreaker on the far right. This one looks like it has been blued. They are all going into the citrus bath, blued or not.

hot water and 1/4 cup of citrus acid

I microwaved two cups of water for 3 minutes and stirred in the citrus acid in. After the acid had dissolved, I added the plane parts.
they stopped
This was bubbling away and it stopped when I snapped the pic. It wasn't an alka seltzer fizzing, more like a few bubbles here and there.

I forgot one thing and that was the chipbreaker screws. I checked my stash and I only have one and I need two more. I'll have to order them from nh plane.

a for me at work project
This is going to be a prototype to iron out any potential kinks. I want a desk that I can stand at to work on at work. I ordered one over a year ago and still haven't gotten it. The offices next door got theirs 3 days after ordering them. I'm not waiting anymore. The big piece will be the desk and the smaller one will be hung underneath it. That will be used for the keyboard and the mouse. I need to make one more platform for the monitor. I want that one to be adjustable but I haven't thought of a way of doing it yet.

This is as far as I got on this tonight. Cleaning up the plane parts took a long time to do. I would like to get something done so I can take it in on saturday and road test it. I'm sure I'll have to adjust the measurements on some of this.

rearranged the parts
I added more water and citrus acid. I didn't like the parts laying on top of each other. I got what I can laying up against the walls. Only the #8 chipbreaker is laying on the #4 irons.  It has only been about 10 minutes and the shiny #3 chipbreakers have dulled already. I'm going to let this soak in the bath until tomorrow. I'm curious as how these parts will look after that length of time.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first woman to serve as the Grand Marshall of the Tournament of Roses Parade?
answer - Erma Bombeck