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Accidental Woodworker

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The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2426125
Updated: 33 min 39 sec ago

serendipity......

6 hours 24 min ago
...... where luck gives an unexpected and pleasant happening. For me that was an almost empty post office.  I had to stop there after work to mail out the irons and when I pulled into the parking lot I got the last spot. Not a good omen.  I resigned myself to standing in line for quite a while as I went in. Then the serendipity thing said hello because there was only one person in front of me. And the person at the counter was leaving as I got in line. I was in and out in about 10 minutes.

When I got home there were four packages waiting. Lo and behold, 3 of them were for me. You could have knocked me down with a feather. Usually all multiple packages go to the wife, even if I'm expecting some too.



new coat hook from Lee Valley
I bought three of these and got them with free shipping. I will easily be able to hang 3 coats from it.
 I especially like the top two spread eagle hooks.

how it is secured
This is screwed to the wall where you want the coat hook to live.

the coat hook slips over it
There is a set screw at the top and another one at the bottom. These two secure the hanger to this part. There is no visible means from the front as to how the hook is hanging from the wall.  When I checked the shipping on this morning, UPS supposedly didn't have the tracking number in their system yet.

this is going away
 I have been telling myself for years to replace this with something else. I have finally gotten around to it but not quite yet. Maybe this weekend and if I leave them on the workbench that will up the chance of it happening.

spindles came in too
I checked on these 3 times today and each time all I got was that the order had been received.

reprint I got from Hyperkitten
I wasn't going to get this until I read a blog post about some else buying one and fantasizing about going shopping in the same year as the catalog. After I read that I ordered this one and another.

fantasy catalog #2
I don't think it's a reprint
I didn't get these for type studies but just for looking at. I wish I could shop and buy the tools in here at the prices listed. A Stanley #1 bench plane sold for $1.65 in catalog 102

got another fenced casing plane
This one is 5/8" and it completes it for me. I now have 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", and 7/8" sizes. I couldn't resist this because of how clean this looked. Most of the ones I see have a crack or a split in them on the outboard fence. That part of the plane takes a lot of stress. I have one plane (7/8) with a split I still haven't glued yet.

5/8 on the heel
I tried this on 3/4" stock and I couldn't get the plane over the edge - it was too thick for the plane.

1/2" thick stock
It planed a partial profile on this. The iron was barely sharp enough to plane this poplar and I struggled a bit doing it. Missing from this profile is the shoulder at the top. I will have to plane some stock down to 5/8" and try this plane again. First I will sharpen and hone the iron.

1/4" brad point bit is too small
I drilled a test hole in poplar and it is too small for the spindle tenon. A few gentle taps with a mallet didn't improve the fit neither.

1/4" forstner bit worked
Gallery rail dry fit came out good. I will glue this in place after the rest of the holder is done. I want to ensure that galley rail will fit inbetween the sides. I cut the length of the gallery rail 3/8" shorter than the ID of the sides.

close to the notch
The wood movement is front to back so I could be tight on this if need be. I want it with a 3/16" spacing on both ends.  I also have a chip missing on this end to deal with. I planed a bevel on this edge until the chip disappeared. The bevel may become a round over later.

planed a bevel on the back stretcher
The holder is ready to glue up but I didn't do it tonight. I'll do it tomorrow when I will have my full hour in the shop and no errands to run.

got the pipes moved
The plumber who did this said that he doesn't do copper piping anymore. Everything is plastic now. He put in two shutoffs here and there are two ball valve shutoffs in the cellar too. I'll be doing the sink hook up which will go very fast. No soldering, no fussing, just screw the faucet lines to these and I'll be done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Henry Ford made 15,007,033 Model T cars. In what year did the VW beetle surpass it?
answer - in 1972 (the last beetle was made in 2003 for a total production of 21,529,464)

paper towel holder pt IV.......

Thu, 02/23/2017 - 12:59am
True to my word, there will only be a final part V. That one will be the painted, ooh and aah, glamour shot part. I am still waiting on the spindles. When I checked on them this afternoon, they had received the order. That is it. No shipped it out, no tracking number, just we got your money and when we get around to it, we'll ship it.

mind is made up now
Unfinished box on the top, the new linseed oil and wax finish on the middle box, and the bottom box has several coats of shellac. From this vintage point, the middle and bottom box look a like a lot.

side view
The only thing that stands out to me on these, is the bottom box has some shine, the middle one has a bit of color and a flat look, and the top one is bare bones. I'll be putting the wax finish on the top box. I am still rather pleasantly surprised that there is no discernible odor the middle box. I'm leaving the middle box closed up tonight. Tomorrow I'll do a sniff test on the inside of the box to see if it stinks.

changed the pattern a bit
It wasn't a dear diary entry change but a change nonetheless. Where the curve ended and dipped down vertically is the place I changed it. Instead of the 90° drop I put it at an  angle. I wasn't so keen on the abrupt end and change on the first one.

To trace it out on the crest rail board, I lined up the lines on the two on the left side. I flipped it and did the right side. Using a half pattern ensures both sides should be reasonably the same.

cut the crest rail on the bandsaw
cleaned up with rasps
I need to do a bit more on the right side but overall, it looks ok.

the top of the side
I wanted the crest rail to die out above the top of the sides. I don't like the look of the parts diving down below and into the rabbet.

finding the gallery rail center
The rail is 13 and 5/16" long. I came in 6 1/2" in from each end and made a mark. I squared those two marks and then made two diagonals between them. That gave me the center of the gallery rail L/R and top to bottom.  After I got the center line, I used dividers and laid out the spacing for 3 spindles on either side of center.

found center of the shelf
I transferred the layout from the gallery rail onto the shelf. I am pretty sure that the tenons on the spindles I ordered are a 1/4" but I'll be patient until I get them.  I will measure them and then drill the holes for them.

FYI for me too
After I found the center on the gallery rail I should have drawn the center line on it. I could have then marked the spindle spacing with the dividers on the center line. The bigger hole is from the awl on the center point and the little hole to left is from the dividers. Oh well maybe I'll remember it for next time.

I had to run few errands after work tonight so my shop time was short. The big surprise was the post office. It was empty when I stopped in to get some flat rate boxes. I know that when I go to ship out the irons it'll be packed. Tomorrow I'll get back to finishing up the tequila box.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many Grammy categories are there?
answer - there are 30 fields with 83 categories in them

paper towel holder pt III.......

Wed, 02/22/2017 - 12:50am
There is only going to be a part IV and V.  I was expecting to get all of the woodworking related tasks done tonight but I lost a bounce test. A minor hiccup that was easily fixed and it really didn't matter much. I still have to wait for the spindles for the gallery rail to come in before I can keep on going with it.


two coats on it
Last night after dinner I went back to the shop to look at this. It felt dry and not the least bit greasy. So I put another coat of the finish on the box and lid. This is what it looks like 12 hours later. Still dry and not greasy or slick, and there is no stinky odor. I can smell it in the jar but not on the box.

the bottom of the lid
Other than the color getting a bit darker, there isn't much to tell me there is a finish on this. It has a nice tactile feel with my fingertips but I'm not sure about the protection it will afford. I like shellac but side by side, I pick this new finish. I put another coat of it on tonight. I'll evaluate this tomorrow and see if it needs another one.

one of three rabbets
I need this rabbet at the bottom of the shelf for the bottom of the crest rail. I need a stopped rabbet on both of the sides for the ends of the crest rail. The three of these will provide a good glue surface for the keeping the shelf, the sides, and crest rail together.

right side stopped rabbet
I started to saw this out and stopped. I couldn't take a full stroke for the whole wall so I chiseled it out by hand. Once I got the majority of the waste removed and I was close to the gauge line, I switched over to the hand router.

closed throat router
When I put this away yesterday I didn't change the depth setting. I left it at the same setting so the rabbet depth will be same as the shelf dado.

finishing up the other side rabbet
I spent a most of my time carefully chiseling the vertical wall of the rabbet. This is what will be seen on the finished shelf. I made sure that this was as straight and clean as I could make it.

clean and tight fitting joint
the failed bounce test with Mr Concrete Floor
I knocked this off the bench and this piece broke off. I will glue this back on and let it set until tomorrow.

the gallery rail
If I hadn't broken the shelf I could have done the layout for the spindles. If I had been able to do that I would have been done with the woodworking. I could have glued this up tonight but now it'll have to wait.

layout lines
I have a center line (vertical one) and the top of the sides (horizontal line) and that is all I need to draw a design. I sketched something here to get a look see at it and I'm going with it. I like it and I don't see the need to try to make anything else.

pattern
I just have to cut this out and align the vertical and horizontal lines and trace it out onto the crest rail. This will be the last of the woodworking to be done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Grace Hooper?
answer - she wrote the first compiler for a computer programming language

towel holder pt II..........

Tue, 02/21/2017 - 12:42am
I took another 'take it easy' day.  It was a day off from work for me and I did nothing on the cabinet installation except to call a few plumbers. None were interested in doing a little piddly job like move some pipes. One did say that he was free at the end of March and could I wait that long? By the time I got done doing this I was ready for something else so I went on a road trip.

I went to three different craft stores to get some gallery rail spindles. All three of the craft stores didn't have any and none of them knew what they were. One had an assembled gallery rail that I showed to him so he now knows what they are.

There is a wood item store in Greenville that sells them so I headed out to see them. But before I stopped there I went a wee bit further up the road to Stillwater Antique Mall. It's been a while since I've been there and they must be undergoing a inventory turnover. Pickings were sparse but there were two humongous 90° picture framers clamps. They must have had a 8-10 inch clamping width. I've never seen any that big before. For $45, I was tempted to take one home but I didn't.

On the way home I stopped at the wood store but it was closed. The sign said they would be closed from Feb 12th to the 21th. Today is the 20th and I was left standing at the door. Since I had no intention of driving back here, when I got home I ordered some on line.

I bought 20 maple spindles for $3.85 with $7.90 S/H. Ouch, I dislike paying more for shipping then the merchandise. The first site I looked at was selling one spindle for $2.35. I hope no one bought any of these from them and looked further.

30 minutes past oh dark 45
Overslept again this morning and I can't do that tomorrow.. I went to the shop and before I started to work on the towel holder I did one last check for the ID and OD. I hope that paper towels all come in a standard length. I have seen them with different diameters but this holder can handle that. It can also handle about an extra inch in the length if need be.

artist linseed oil
Chris Schwartz recently put up an article on making a homemade finish of linseed oil and wax. He wrote that buying this type of linseed oil was expensive and he wasn't woofing Dixie. I think that this is Italian and I couldn't find how much is in the bottle. It's probably there but I can read Italian as well as I can mandarin chinese.

using the 4:1 ration
I am assuming that Chris did the formula based on weight ounces and not fluid ounces. The weight of the linseed oil was 2 3/8 ounces which made the beeswax to be added about 0.6 ounces. I put 7/8 of an ounce of beeswax in this. I am sure that this formula isn't carved in stone so I should be alright if I'm a little off on the ratio.

brought it to a boil
After it came to a boil I lowered the heat until all the boiling bubbles went away. Then I put the jar of linseed oil and beeswax in the water.

5 minutes
The wax is still in chunks in the linseed oil. The bigger pieces of wax don't seem to want to melt.

ten minutes
There are 3 pieces of wax that still haven't melted. The mixture has gone from a clear looking liquid to a honey color here.

took about 15 minutes to melt the wax into the linseed oil
I kept the heat on medium low and I didn't allow it to boil again once the jar went in the water.

about 10 minutes after taking it out the water
It is starting to solidify.

wasn't sure
This is the stir stick I used on the mixture. I'm sure that this probably isn't like linseed oil soaked rags but this gives me a warm and fuzzy. I broke up the whole stick into little pieces and put them in water.

used two shooting boards
I need to make another smaller shooting board. The one I have now is made of MDF and it's getting wonky. It doesn't like shooting boards over 5-6 inches wide.

all 3 dead nuts even in length
marked the shelf width
plumb
I think I've finally turned the corner on this. I wasn't looking at this to saw plumb. What I was concentrating on was staying a few frog hairs off the gauge line in the waste side.

left the line end to end
using the gauge line again
Planing down to this will make this edge square and parallel to the other edge.

3/8 longer than the dado
I didn't measure this but laid it out by eye.  I like a stopped dado over a through dado. I think the stopped dado is cleaner looking. Of course that depends on how well you saw the notch too.

I have my finish
I don't know at what time this set up and solidified. I was busy playing with the towel holder. I would guess it's been about 45 minutes since I brought this down to the shop. It's still a little warm but not so warm that I can't hold it.

it's solid looking and it feels solid too
left knife line
Since I looked at my marking knife with a magnifying glass and fixed it, I've been getting clean, ragged out free knife lines.

right one is just as clean
bottom back stretcher
I am not liking this layout. This is a weak connection due to not much meat making the connection. I'm changing this to a blind dovetail.

I like this better already
scraper chisel
This scraper is the same thickness as my dovetail kerf  and it fits it like a glove. What it isn't doing is chiseling down the corner. I have only used this scraper for the corners on pine and it sails through that. It isn't working on the poplar at all. I had to chisel out the tail socket slowly and carefully.

left side done
right side had some hiccups
I had a gap on the shoulders here and at the back top of the tail. The sides of the dovetail were tight against the socket walls. My first attempts at correcting the fit were off the mark. I thought because it was tight on the outside walls that was the problem. I trimmed in very small shavings and that saved my bacon. The reason why I had a gap at the shoulders was because the back wall of the tail socket wasn't plumb. It was tapered with the bottom wider than the top. I shaved the wall plumb and the back gap disappeared. The shoulder one closed up some but not completely. This was another area I trimmed that I shouldn't have. After I glue these I will also put a screw in each tail into the side.

rubbed on one coat of  the linseed oil and wax finish
This finish is hard. I was expecting this to be a little softer and kind like a paste. Maybe my overage on the wax ratio made it harder. It doesn't smell and it doesn't feel greasy even after I apply it.

the lid
It's hard for me to tell there is a finish on this. The lid does slide in and out easier after this one coat.

unfinished big box
Both of these boxes are made from the same boards. The bigger box is lighter in color (no finish) than the smaller box with the finish on it. I'll put another coat on the small box tomorrow. Before I put any on the bigger one I'll let the small one hang out for while first. I think this will be a good finish to put on shop projects.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Al Capone, the gangster, had an older brother who used the name Richard "two gun" Hart. What did he do for a living?
answer - he was lawman in Nebraska serving as a marshal and a state sheriff

I paid the price, big time........

Mon, 02/20/2017 - 2:48am
I moved around yesterday like I was a young kid. I refused to give in and take it slow. Putting in that corner cabinet really pissed me off. I flew up and down the cellar stairs getting tools and whatever else I needed. Later on that night about 2000, my right leg (with the metal hip) starting hurting. I also had trouble walking and I couldn't take a full stride.

I didn't think much of it and thought that after a good night's sleep, life would be wonderful in the morning again. I went to bed and before 2100 I was in agony. My hip had never hurt this much before. Not even when I built the garden shed a few years ago. I got up to get some motrin and that was trip through hell and back. Constant stabbing aching pain, and a 10 second round trip that took me 10 minutes to do.

My wife looked up something on her cell phone and she told me take some motrin. Duh! I just took that. I somehow managed to get back into bed without passing out. She put a heating pad on my hip and that felt wonderful. The pain started to subside and I fell asleep. I woke up a few hours later and I was pain free. I'm not complaining but the previous couple hours are ones I don't ever want to revisit.

Today I kept in mind what I did yesterday and took it easy. I'm having a plumber come in and do the water pipes. I may call him back and have him do the sink hook up too. I spent the rest of the day trying to finish up the rehabbing of the #3. That shouldn't involve a lot running around.

Siegley iron and chipbreaker
I forgot these pics from yesterday. This is the condition I got these two in. Ready to go as is and I did use them as is.

back of the iron has been flattened
I'll take that because I dislike flattening the backs of irons and chisels.

this needs some work
The chipbreaker had a bit of daylight between it and the iron. I didn't get any shavings jammed up under it when I used but I'll fix it anyways.

this side is off a bit
This is the side/end that I saw the daylight on. It won't take but a few minutes to get this flat and even end to end.

prepped my sanding belts
I cut the belts last night before I left the shop. I put them underneath the marble threshold to flatten out the hump in them.

#3 sanded with 180
The marks on the bottom edge I had to hand sand out. I was getting anywhere trying to sand them out on the threshold. I have no plans to use this on shooting board so I'm overly concerned with getting or maintaining square.

#4
The sole of this plane had some paint on it from the boards I used it on. Overall, the plane looks grungy so I decided to do a full sanding of the sole and the cheeks. I had to put the 80 and 120 grit belts back on and start there with this plane.

changed where I cut them
I cut the blue belt on the round part of the belt. That put the splice almost in the middle of the threshold when laid down on it. Every stroke with the plane back and forth went over the splice. On the other belts I cut it on the splice and put that part under the clamp. That left me with prime, uninterrupted sanding real estate.

sanding do-dad
This is the eraser I use to clean my 12" sanding disc and I tried it here. The heavier grits (80, 120,etc) stay relatively clean but the smaller grits (220 and up) clog up quickly. Even with frequent vacuuming, they still clog quickly. I tried the eraser after each time I vacuumed and it seemed to make a difference. I could see and feel the sandpaper cutting better than when I just vacuumed it.

look at what I found
I thought I had a set of smaller torx screwdrivers but when I didn't find them in my electronics toolbox, I assumed I didn't have any. I didn't think to look at where my workshop screwdrivers are kept.

finish polishing with 600 grit
I'm not a fan of this 3 in-a-row sandpaper but I didn't have a choice here. I took it slow and I only lost 2 pieces. I think that is pretty good as I used this setup to polish three other planes besides the #3.

all 600 grit
I've had this paper for over 23 years. I got it before I left the Navy in 1994. I was stationed on a boat that was being decommissioned and the last sea trip we made on her was a dump run. We went to sea for the express purpose of throwing everything not needed overboard. I saved this pile of 600 grit paper. I have maybe used an inch over the years. I just missed getting a pile of 400 grit at the same time.

I think readers know that I like shiny
#3 sanded and shined up
the 4 hand planes I did today
I did my other #3, the #4 that had paint on it's sole, and the 4 1/2.

doing a plane iron inventory
2 of the four LN irons I have. One  A-2 and three 0-1s'. I have two LN planes, a 51 and a 4 1/2 and both of them have 0-1 irons. I'm good on LN irons but I would like to replace the one A-2 with another 0-1.

10 1/2 and  # 8 irons
I had bought a replacement frog for a 10 1/2 and it had an iron and chipbreaker too. This one is sharp and ready to go.  I now have three #8 irons. The one in the #8 now is a Record iron that fits and works perfectly. I should only have two irons for the #8 but I bought an iron/chipbreaker thinking it was for the 4 1/2 but I had mind farted on the size of the two. Now I have three and I'm good on these too.

2 5/6" wide irons
These are for my 4 1/2 but they will also fit the #6 and #7. The #6 has a cambered iron and I don't need a replacement for it but I do need a back up for the #7. The iron on the left is from Tools from Japan I got it because it is the only aftermarket iron I can find that is close to the size of the OEM Stanleys. The iron/chipbreaker on the right is the Siegley I just got. It is looking like I don't need any more irons for the 4 1/2 or the #7.

#4 and #3 irons and extra chipbreakers
I have three #4 planes but only one back up iron for them. I have two #3 planes and I have 2 backup irons for them. I need to get a couple of more #4 irons and at least one backup #4 chipbreaker.

Stanley block plane iron
I offered this for free with the block plane but had no takers last year. The block
plane failed the bounce test with Mr Concrete Floor but I saved the iron.

spare iron for my Lee Valley rabbet plane
toothing iron for my LV BU Jack
iron from Tools from Japan
#8 iron in front, Tools from Japan iron in the back
There is a slight difference in the thickness of these two. The iron from Tools from Japan is only about 2 frog hairs thicker than the #8. I shouldn't have to go nutso pushing the frog back to the heel to get it to fit. I checked the Tools from Japan website and this is the only Stanley bench iron replacement I saw on it.

The only plane I haven't actively sought to get a replacement iron for is my #5. I don't use it that often and it's the same size as the #4 irons. So if I get more #4 irons, I will have a spare for the #5. I use my Lee Valley BU Jack more than the Stanley.

an old tapered iron
modified chipbreaker
This came in a wooden Jack I bought and it was modified by the previous owner.(?) Whoever did this also squared off the slot in the iron.

won't fit in any metal plane I have
The bevel side
The bevel of this looks like crap. It looks like it was hacked at but with a bit of work it'll be redeemable.

offered up for sale
The far left iron is a freebie to whoever wants one of the others and asks for it. The second from left iron is the tapered one and it is 2 1/16" wide. $17 including shipping in the lower 48 in a flat rate box. You know blurb to follow, first email with the earliest date time stamp, yada, yada, yada..........  If someone wants it that doesn't reside in the lower 48, $17 plus actual shipping costs to you.

The third iron from the left is a Lee Valley A2 iron and chipbreaker. It's 2 3/8 wide and I had bought it to use in my #7 but it wouldn't fit. With the frog backed up as far as it would go, I had no more adjuster to turn to move the iron in or out. I used it in my LN 51 for over a year before I put a LN 0-1 back in it. $20 including shipping to the lower 48 in a flat rate box. Same blurb as above applies here.

The last one on the right is a Hock iron and chipbreaker that was in my #5. Hock was the only after market iron I bought that didn't need the mouth widened nor involved having the iron shoved back to the heel. I have gone back to using Stanley irons in all of my planes and I intend to stay with them.

Offered up for $20 including shipping to the lower 48 in a flat rate box. Same blurb as above applies here. ****This iron has the corners rounded off so it won't leave plane tracks.**** Both the Hock and the Lee Valley iron are sharpened straight across - they are not cambered and neither iron has a secondary bevel.

fixing the chipbreaker
The shiny part was on the stone with the tail on the bench. Moved it up and down the side of the stone, trying to keep it square, until the edge was consistent side to side.

sharpened the bottom edge
The edge right where it lays on the iron, had some rough spots and a couple of minutes on the coarse stone got rid of it. I stropped it after I did the same to the iron.

another 150 year old patent date
I know that this iron and chipbreaker isn't original to the #3 I'm rehabbing. It has the movable bedrock frog and that wasn't even a thought back in 1867.

I'm liking this runway sharpening
 I am going to keep the threshold and the 80 grit belt by the sharpening bench. This long distance makes quick work on establishing the bevel and rolling a burr.

trying to remove my fingerprints
I saw the blood on the guide and I had to search for the source. I didn't even feel this nor was aware that I had shaved this fingertip. The iron I'm sharpening now is the OEM #3 I bought a couple of weeks ago. I flattened the back, filed the corners round, and I'm establishing my bevel here.

cleaning up the level cap
got the last of the rust spots
The keyhole circle I did with a dowel wrapped with sandpaper. The wire wheel got the rest of them.

working on my mini anvil
The level cap had bend in it and I was able to tap most of it out on the pointed part of the anvil. I know that the pointed thing in the back is called a hardy and I'm assuming that the pointy blue thing is called the horn. I'll be looking up anvil part names after I'm done writing this blog.

my best friend too
I have used this stuff for years to clean my stainless steel pots and pans. I never knew it would work wonders on brass. I got this tip from Jonathan who blogged about the Chicken Taj Mahal of the Pacific Northwest he built. He also blogged about a plane restoration and he used this to clean the adjuster wheel.  I couldn't believe how shiny and bright he got the adjuster. I have struggled on every plane rehab I've done and I never got any of my adjusters to look even half as good as his was.

it's pristine
I drop a bunch of this in a plastic container with water and drop the adjuster in it to soak for a while. After about a ten minutes, I take it out and scrub it all over with a toothbrush. Any stubborn areas I treat with a paste of a little water and a lot of powder and use extra elbow grease with the toothbrush.

where my shop day ended
I scrubbed the inside of the plane, rinsed it out, and then blew it dry with my hairdryer. At this point I am not going to paint this. There is a little lost of some japanning aft of the frog seat and none forward of it. Everything on the plane has been sanded, shined, cleaned, and oiled up. All that I need to call this done, and hear the congratulatory oohs and aahs, is the rear tote.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Whitcomb Judson?
answer - he invented the zipper

2 down, 2 to go.......

Sun, 02/19/2017 - 2:56am
The approved plan for saturday was to go in early to do OT. Come home early and get at least two cabinets installed. Quit the cabinets after that and go spend some quality time in the shop.It sounded good and looked awesome on paper, but the execution was lacking. Got two cabinets installed but I didn't get any quality time in the shop. It is looking like I won't be getting a lot of it tomorrow neither. And the early stuff didn't happen neither.

I felt an omen
I didn't have a warm and fuzzy feeling when I got home so first off, I went to the shop and did some woodworking. I took the crest rail for the towel holder out of the clamps and cleaned it up. It's ready to go now and I then started on the cabinet install.

working out of the corner
This was a hard one to call for me. I could have started on the right with stove cabinet and tried to shoehorn the corner cabinet in place. Or tried the same thing coming from the left. Common sense told me to install the corner cabinet first and work out from that right and left.

My kitchen floor has a 3/4" hollow just to the left of the center of it. Which puts it right where the corner and stove cabinets are going to live going to the right. Since I thought it would be near impossible to shim and corner cabinet, I worked on getting that level and square in the corner.

kitty corner on the corner cabinet
The walls are slightly out of plumb. The right wall leans inward and the left one leans outward. I couldn't get two surfaces to be level no matter what I did. If screwed one side in level, the other one would go out. Very frustrating start to this installation.

from the corner to the front - out of level
I have the right side screwed to the wall and the reading is off. In order to get this level I would have had to lift the back end up. Doing that would put the sides out level. This cabinet has to be level and plumb because the other cabinets are installed off of it.

three stooges plumbing
This is all going away. The pipe on the right is the cold water and I am hoping that I have enough wiggle room to fit the sink cabinet over it.

this is turning out to be an armpit level liquid fecal matter job
I'm on the level line on one side and off on the other. I got a level kitty corner here. It has now been almost 2 hours of work and I don't have this first cabinet installed yet.

stellar joinery - both sides look the same
more award winning joinery
This corner, in spite of the ten pounds of staples, is still separated somehow. I checked and what a surprise, the cabinet is not square in any direction. It is out almost a 1/4" off on the diagonals. That explains some of the fun I'm having trying to get this secured in place.

???
The only thing holding this kick plate in place is 5 staples at the top. I secured it with a handful of #6x5/8 screws by screwing in from the 1/4" plywood into the 1/2" kick plywood board.

the other side is held with 5 staples too
I repeated the screwing on this kick plate too. It did stiffen up the cabinet some but it didn't cure the out of square.

removed all the staples and screwed the corner back together
one hour later
I finally said enough and compromised. I gave up trying to get the left and right sides level. The vertical sides are plumb which made me scratch the bald spot a few extra times. I went kitty corner across the front and got that level. I took a break after I finally got the corner cabinet in place.

never heard of Siegley, you?
I bought this because it was $10, 2 5/16" wide, and I was hoping it would fit my 4 1/2". This is also the cleanest and most ready to go iron I have ever bought.

Stanley on the left, Siegley on the right
With the exception of the iron, these two look identical.  The relief hole for the chipbreaker screw being at the top of the iron is the only obvious difference. Everything on the chipbreakers are almost a dead nuts match. I'm thinking Stanley made this for Siegley and they ordered the irons made this way for them. I'm sure Bob Demers probably has info on any closet skeletons with Siegley planes.

can't argue with this
I did nothing to the Siegley iron/chipbreaker. I put in the 4 1/2 and locked down the lever cap. I didn't have to adjust the screw for it at all. I made a bunch of shavings from wispy thin to these here. I have a back up for my 4 1/2 now.

I have started looking out for other makers irons because I can't seem to find good Stanley ones. I know Stanley made planes/irons for others and they are usually cheaper to buy. I would buy a whole plane just to salvage an iron.

much joy and rejoicing in Mudville
My new 3/8 drill came in and I put it to work doing the cabinet install. I put the corded one back in the black hole.

my 4x36 belts came in too
I have the grits to finish the #3 - 180, 220 320, and 400. That is something I can do while the wife is sleeping. It's a quiet work until you drop something on your foot or mind fart and turn the vacuum cleaner on.

just thought to check this
The adjuster is in the same spot with the Siegley iron/chipbreaker as it is with the Stanley setup. I didn't gain there but I gained with a good iron and chipbreaker.

5 hours after I started
My male cat, Mr Darcy, is inspecting my work. Doing this kitchen redo has them all screwed up. Neither one of them would eat their cat food when I fed them this noontime. Easiest way to screw with a cat's head is to rearrange the furniture.

No quality time in the shop today. I was tired and way too sore after this fun adventure. Tomorrow should be a topper for today because I get to play Mr Plumber. I'll have to shut the water off to whole house when I do that. The one good thing in my favor for that is the temperature. It is supposed to top out in the low 50's.  I won't have to worry about heat loss because I will also have to shut the boiler down too while I play Mr Plumber.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How long did the Battle of Waterloo last?
answer - about 10 hours

took a partial day off..........

Sat, 02/18/2017 - 2:02am
No oh dark thirty trips to Lowes or Home Depot this morning. Instead of that I slept in because the peepers failed open at 0130. There isn't a lot of quality entertainment on the boob tube that early in the morning. I did get to watch a NOVA program on origami that was interesting. I don't remember when I finally fell back to sleep but the peepers didn't fail open again until 0600.

I got started on installing the bottom cabinets but I still don't have any installed. I found my high and low spots, struck some lines, stood around looking at it, and took a whole lot of breaks. I had some errands to run so my wife and I decided to do them and go out for lunch.

During lunch we decided to make a left turn on the counter top. My wife was going to order it from Home Depot. Here's the kicker - if we get just the counter top, it's $700. They will deliver it and haul away the old one. That's it.

If I want them to install it, cut out for the sink, and attach the plumbing, the cost is now $3000. WTF? It shouldn't cost an extra $2000 to do this work which shouldn't take more then two hours, 3 at the most. Lowes is basically the same too. No one will do the whole nine yards without me coughing up a wheelbarrow full of money.

I will be doing the sink install myself. As much as I hate contorting my old, fat body to maneuver under the sink, I refuse to pay that kind of money. I will also be making my own counter top. My wife and I decided (mostly her) that it should be tiled. It's bit more work for me but I feel better taking it on than paying the exorbitant fees.


got real lucky here
 The corner cabinet just happens to land on the high spot. I find it easier to work out of a corner high going to low than the other way around.

an inch difference on the right
The top line is the level line coming out of the corner. The level line in the corner is set at the height of the corner cabinet.  The short line beneath the level one is the height of the cabinet at that point.  The floor slopes away here but I have never felt it before. It's hard to ignore this visual. That explains why pots on the stove pool liquids on the right side.

left side coming out of the corner
This side is about 3/8" off the high level line. I won't have to shim up as much here. I got the corner cabinet in the kitchen and put it place and it's crowding the water pipes for the sink. It already looks like the three stooges installed plumbing here. I don't want to have to reroute the water pipes but it's something I may have to do. I had to pull this cabinet back out to mark the stud locations and make a layout line for a 2x4. I need to screw that to the floor so I can then screw the cabinet into that. An inch is too much to raise up just on shims.

Evaporust bath this time
This is the chipbreaker I just got in the mail that had the iron that is toast. I bought another iron this time based on it's size of 2 5/16". It's a name I never heard of and I'm taking a chance on it fitting my 4 1/2. I already soaked this in citric acid and after hitting it with sandpaper I noticed a few pits. I decided to treat it with Evaporust too.

the original 4 1/2 chipbreaker
Look at the curve on this and how thin it is.

the one in the Evaporust now
The curve on this one isn't as pronounced as the one above. It is also thicker than the top one.

it is a gentle curve
my oldest Bailey dated anything
The patent date is 150 years old and that makes this at least that old or a bit younger but not by much. Evaporust puts a film on what is soaked in it. I want that protection to get down into the pits on this on both sides.

my low studs from Bill Rittner came in
I got the matching brass barrel nuts too. One set will be used on my first #3 and the other on the second one I bought.

new knob on my first #3
I like the scale of this knob a lot. I think it fits the scale of the plane much better then the previous tenant here.

the yet to be finished rehabbed #3
The scale of these knobs is the same as my first #3. I have a rear tote for this coming, when I don't know. I ordered an assortment of 4x36 sanding belts, 80 to 400, from Amazon so I can finish the sole and sides on this plane. These sanding belts are made for metalworking so they should last for a while. The ones I've been using up to this point have been woodworking ones.

getting the size for the crest rail
I don't like the design that is in the pic for the towel holder. I want the two ends of this crest rail to end above the sides of the towel holder. I'll wait until I have the shelf installed before I make the pattern for it.

went back to the rehabbing #3
I used the rat tail file and sandpaper to clean up the chip taken out of this side of the plane. I wanted the metal here to be smooth and shiny like the rest of the plane.

crest rail
I made the width of this oversized just in case. I think 6" wide would be ok and this is 8 1/2" just in case.

almost forgot this
This faucet set is only a couple of months old. I am going to recycle this into the new sink.

I still haven't chopped the pins on the tequila box. I think I'll try to squeeze it tomorrow. I would do it in the morning but I don't want to risk waking up my wife. It should only take about 15-20 minutes to do, if and when I do it. I want to get this done so I can get the tequila out of the shop. I don't want to risk inadvertently breaking it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What are the 8 Rocky Mountain States?
answer - Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico

day two of the kitchen redo......

Fri, 02/17/2017 - 3:11am
Doing this kind of work sucks at my age. I still know how to do it but the body can't keep up with the mind. I had to make countless trips up and down the cellar stairs coming and going from the kitchen to the shop. That wasn't that bad and I could have done that all day. What sucked out loud was fighting gravity. Going down wasn't that easy but the overcoming of gravity coming back up was horrendous. I was ready for the rocking chair and nap when I got done. I have already told my wife that this is it for me fixing anything on the house that is more involved than changing a light bulb.

first of two problems I found at 0700
At 0600 I was at Lowes buying a 4x8 sheet of 1/4" under layment. I had four big pieces but they weren't enough for want I needed. After I got back home from there I decided to get the size of the inside width of the towel holder. I had to do something that wouldn't wake up the wife.

It was another should of, could of, would of, but didn't do kind of  moment. I knew I should have waited until I had the closet rod holders before cutting the shelf and back stretcher. I made them14" long and I thought that would be more than sufficient. Turns out it wasn't.

With the distance between the two rods holders at 12 1/2", the outside measurement ballooned out to 16" and change.

this stuff won't stretch at all
 This won't go to waste. I'll put it back in the stash pile and I'm sure this will end up as a box or something else someday.

problem #2
I bought a new iron and a chipbreaker and last night it spent the night in a citric bath. This side of both looked to be pretty good. No rust, pitting, or chips missing. And the iron has a good length to it.

the other side of the chipbreaker
It looks grungy and dirty but I've only treated it for rust. I'm sure that this will sand out to be nice and shiny.

the iron is toast
I have about a 1/16 of good metal at the edge then an ocean of pitted metal. The pits are too deep, too numerous, and occupy way too much real estate. At least I have a good chipbreaker that maybe I can put on my 4 1/2. It might help with the adjuster length I have on it now.

what dragged me in the dirt
I can still remember when something like this would have taken me maybe an hour to do. And that would include a coffee break and reading the newspaper on the porcelain throne. Today this little job took me 3 hours and wore me out. I thought I would be done putting in the 4 cabinets today but it didn't happen. Maybe two tomorrow and and last two on saturday or sunday with the possibility of monday.

making moldings
The pic of the towel holder shows the gallery rail as a square piece of stock with dowels for the spindles. There are 6 spindles too which I find unusual because an odd number looks better than an even number of them. I also want the front edge of my gallery rail to be molded. This was run #1.

Caleb James 3/16" bead plane
This is the plane I used to make both edges of the molding above.  I like it except for the center tongue. If that was gone, I would go with that one.

beading plane #2
I don't know that size of this beader is. I can't make out the maker, the owner, or the size stamped on either the toe or the heel.

a hollow
I used this to round over the top edge of the molding. I can barely make out the number 10 stamped on the heel. Instead of a round over, I got more of an ellipse shape. It doesn't look that good.

beader #3
Don't know the size of this beader but I picked it thinking it would make a larger bead on the edge of the board. I'm not liking this one too much.

head on
I had a 3/16" bead on the top edge and this bigger bead on the bottom edge. I was trying to use two planes to mold both top and bottom. Looks like crap because the bigger one ate up some of the top one.

my one and only side bead plane
This plane puzzles me. First, I'm not sure how to use it. There were no instructions with it when I bought it. There are no spring lines on it. By it's very name, I assume that the bead is angled whereas my beads above were all at 90°. There is also no obvious (to me anyways) stop. Lastly, it is a mystery to me how to start it. There isn't a registration rabbet, shoulder, or notch to start it in or on.

pit stop to sharpen and hone the iron
This iron wasn't sharpened which surprised me. I must have gotten frustrated with trying to get a profile with it and stuck back in the plane till. I flattened the back, sharpened, honed, and stropped the profile. I did this because my first two attempts at making a profile were a dismal failure. And I already know that sharp cures a lot of ills.

I think I figured it out
I used my fingers as a fence against the back edge of the board. Keeping the plane vertical I started at the nose and worked back to the rear end. Once I got it established end to end, the plane seemed happy and planed end to end.  It didn't wander and stayed parallel to the front edge. I also tried doing it with the plane held at an angle towards me but that didn't work out too well. I think the correct way to do is running the plane vertically. The profile looks good done that way and it stopped cutting too on it's own. I wasn't expecting that.

the finished molding
I like the look of this but I don't have a warm and fuzzy about the square part at the top.

oak spindles
I would use these if the rail wasn't being painted. Oak looks too grainy under paint. I will have to make a pit stop at an Arts & Craft store. I am pretty sure I can find some made out of maple or some other kind of smooth wood.

This is a better shot of how the square portion of the molding at the top over powers the bead beneath it.

the square would look better if it was rounded over



I have a beader
I got this set so that the first circle straddles the square portion of the molding.

had to brace it
The rail was bowing on me as I was running the plane along it's length. The T brace fixed that hiccup.

I like this a lot
I ended up with a small rabbet on the top that I planed off,

the only hiccup
Both the lead in and the exit, weren't fully molded. I don't need the entire length of this so I can saw off these two areas.

8 of the 10 cutters
some of the cutters had rust blooms
This only the 3rd time I have used this plane. Most of the irons were clean and the few with the blooms cleaned up quickly.

fancy box
The box holds eight cutters. It is made out of 1/8" thick plywood that is a frog hair thicker than the irons. One iron is kept in the plane and the last one won't fit in here due to it's shape. I oiled these and put them away.

why I bought the beading plane and the one that won't fit
This is a rusty 1/8" and 1/4' scratch iron. The idea was to use this to make stopped 1/8" grooves for boxes. I tried it and it didn't work out for me. I couldn't get a groove but maybe now that a little time has expired, I can try this again.

it feels sharp
Maybe I should look around on You Tube and see if anything is posted on using this iron. For now, I oiled it and put it away.

gallery rail and back stretcher ready
new shelf glued and cooking
I have to make a new pattern for the crest rail now that the ID has changed by a few inches. I will probably have to glue up couple of pieces for that too.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What country established the first universal emergency phone number?
answer - Great Britain did in 1937 with #999 (the US did it in 1968 with #911)

fun filled day,,,,,,,,,

Thu, 02/16/2017 - 2:21am
I took wed to fri off from work to finish installing the kitchen cabinets. I'll do my thing in the morning and my wife will do hers in the afternoon. I started day one by going to Home Depot and Harbor Freight. I also made a pit stop at Starbucks to get some fresh mojo. Can't work without the kick start in the AM.


yesterday's repair
The top to middle glued up ok but the bottom lost a chunk that I couldn't glue in.


glue blocks at the front only
The more I look at this the more I see total crap. The glue blocks at the front aren't glue blocks. They were stapled in place with a bead of silicone applied on the outside.


front corner of the toe kick
There was absolutely no glue on the toe kick board anywhere. No screws or nails holding it in place neither.


twisted 2x4
I removed the twist in this and then sawed it in half. From the two halves I made 4 vertical corner and 8 glue blocks.


horizontal glue blocks
I planed two reference faces that will be glued to corners. I planed a bit off on the inside so the sides of the blocks will lay up tight to the sides of the cabinet.


glue blocks
Sawing these four in half so I will have 8 blocks total. I'll use 2 on each side on the bottom.


sawed down this far and then I switched sides
just like resawing a board in half
had to switch my big tenon saw
I didn't have enough saw plate under the spine with the carcass saw. I had plenty with my biggest tenon saw.


not too bad
My first one was the lower left and the upper right was the last one.  I gauge these cuts by the spot where I switch and saw from the opposite side. I haven't eliminated it but it is getting smaller. Still not getting the saw cuts to line up when I switch to saw from the other side.


it's tight as drum now
This cabinet is going by the stove and this side will be mostly hidden. I put blocks in all four corners and I don't understand why they didn't. Moot point as this is ready to go in tomorrow.


Harbor Freight goodies
The wire wheels will used on the face vise clean up. The magnet is for a gizmo I'll make for work and the green set has a #8 torx driver. This was the only #8 torx driver that HF had, as a single or in a set.


closet rod holders
The metal one matches the color of the knobs that my wife bought for the kitchen cabinets. I bought the wooden one because it's wood. I'll toss that one in the junk drawer. It doesn't offer as much support as the metal one and I don't think it will survive being used as a paper towel holder.


no longer made
This is a multi purpose tool made by Stanley that they stopped making in the late 70's. I use it mostly to find the center of round things.


screwed the magnet to it
done
I intend to use this to pick up the staples that litter the deck around desk at work. The vacuum doesn't get even half of them and I'm hoping that I can get them all with this.


3 hours work
Didn't think to snap a pic of the before. I ripped out 4 cabinets, a dishwasher, and the counter top.


the used to be kitchen
what I saved
4 leg levelers, 2 big springs, and some nylon cord with do-hickeys on both ends. I only saved 3 cabinets sides as the others didn't survive the hammer love taps.

sneaky U clip
Got the screws removed and I couldn't separate the halves. I had to use a hook to pull out the U clip holding the bottom back together.


still not coming apart
missed a screw
trigger depressed
The LED is lit along with the 3 lights for the battery charge level, motor won't turn still.


motor is spinning away now
The trigger works and I can get the motor to turn that only leaves one thing as being OTL.


miniature electronic controller board
The cheapest price I could find for this was $48 plus $15.99 S/H.  I can buy a bare bones drill for $81. The cost of the repair exceeds 1/3 of the cost for a new one. That is my line in the sand for fixing something. I will fix if the cost is around a 1/3 and I will only fix once. The second failure means it gets shitcanned. I"ll toss this one and order the drill tomorrow.


matched the knobs
I put the other matching knob on the vise today. This was going to be it for me in the shop but I kept doing just one more thing.


HF metric and imperial ball drivers and a torx set
I threw these in my electric tool box because I don't have any of these in it.


I didn't think they were this big
Now that I have these I can get the final inside width of the paper towel holder.  Both parts stick up the same amount.


cheap screws
The heads are colored to match the holders. I will have to check the length on these and see if they will poke out on 3/4" thick stock.


maybe tomorrow I'll get the pins chopped out on the tequila box

Harbor Freight 4x36 sanding belt
 The last time I went to HF, they had belts from 36 grit up to 400. Today they only had 36, 80, and 120. 

80 grit belt
I have this clamped down to a 4x36 inch marble threshold I got at Home Depot. It's a great long flat surface to sand the sole of the #3 on. I kept at it with the 80 grit until I got scratches running from the toe to the heel.

might as well
Since I had the 80 grit out and I needed to work on this chisel, I did it. It was nice to have such a long runway to work on this bevel.

another side trip
I have 5 coats of spray lacquer on these 3.  The middle one looks good and the top and bottom one are washed out. They are black but the color didn't pop out with the lacquer like the middle one did. Another check mark in column A for using fresh ebonizing stuff.

got a good scratch pattern
I have been getting less than optimum results with my sharpening. I have an even grind straight across this chisel.

I can't see any reflected light
I've got a burr straight across
I should now be able to go to the stones and get this shiny and sharp now right?

not so fast moose breath
If I look at this with the magnifying glass, I can see a flat on it on one half. One half has a flat and the other doesn't. Up to now, I've been going on the look of the bevel and the burr on the backside. Even with a flat you can get a burr. Something else to check for when sharpening next. I ran into this same thing with the two spokeshave irons. I had the 3 and thought I done but I found flats on them later.

that's a big chip to remove and it wasn't happening today
moved up 120 grit
I sharpened and honed the 3 chisels at the top and they weren't scheduled for the hit parade today. Getting the #3 done was but that isn't going to happen neither.

my 2two #3s'
I ordered 2 low knob studs from Bill Rittner and he made them to fit the height of these knobs. Once I get them I'll be able to put one on the first #3. The second will have to wait until I'm done sanding the sole. I bought a new tote for it too because I can't stand the look of the one that is on it now. I'll save that one and use pieces of it to make the dark markers for a set of winding sticks.

adjuster on the rehabbing #3
Small brass adjuster and a 1/2 of a turn will get the iron poking out.

my first #3
This one has a large adjuster and look at how much the adjuster is out. The iron is barely poking out of the mouth. The iron and chipbreaker must be a good match for this plane. 99% of my planes have their adjusters set in this manner. I do like the large adjusters over the smaller ones. These are much easier to set up or down with one finger. I have to use two on the smaller ones.

I like the long runway sanding with the marble threshold and sanding belts. I am going to look up the cost of getting a few more grits so I can finish up the #3 and the #4s' I have to do too.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was William Moulton Mastron?
answer - he invented the first functional lie detector and created the comic book heroine, Wonder Woman

sharp fixes all.......

Wed, 02/15/2017 - 2:04am
I got a new molder last night in the mail. I almost missed it because it had fallen off the stoop and behind a bush. If I hadn't looked down, it would have spent the night outside. Instead of that happening I got to play with it after dinner.

the thing that needs to be sharp
I tried this out out of the box and the results sucked. After that disappointment, I put in a citric acid bath overnight. This morning before I left for work, I rinsed it off and oiled it. I'm starting to like the citric acid treatment. Evaporust leaves a film on the metal where this one doesn't. They both do a good job cleaning things up but I like the feel of the metal after the citric acid bath.

One other thing I noticed between the two that is tipping my favor in the direction of the citric is the rust blooms. Evaporust doesn't deal very well with them and they are there at the end of the bath. I left one rust bloom on this iron and the citric acid removed it. It's a hard choice to make because I started out with Evaporust and I'm sure I'll continue to use it. But there are a lot of check marks in column A for the citric acid.

it's a 1/2" astragal
I think I am set on astragals. I have a 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4".  The 3/4" is a wee bit too large for woodshop woodworking. It would need a 6x6 leg to make it look in scale. The 3/4" one was the first one I bought so I'll keep it. Maybe I'll make a gigantic toy box for my grandson and I can use it on that.

my first attempt with the new plane last night
The far end is iffy and the near end looks like total crap.

second run
I was paying better attention to where and how I was planing but I could tell the iron was dull. My shavings were short, full of holes, and the planed profile is very rough. And this was with the grain. I tried getting a profile on all four available edges and none were good.

one stop on the plane
The rabbet on the left is the stop for the plane. The rabbet on the right is the registration one. This rides on the edge and the top of the board. This went off the board into La-La land on every edge except for one. On the one edge I was able to keep this where it was supposed to be, I got the molded profile. It looked like crap because the iron was dull. Instead of being smooth it was torn out end to end.

sharp and shiny
I am getting quicker and better at sharpening these molding irons. I think it mostly has to do with the metal the irons are made of. They are very easy to sharpen because you can remove a lot of material without much effort.

ripping off the bad so I can plane some good
not too bad, even and straight end to end
plumb too
This is something I have wanted to do ever since I saw Paul Sellers make a cove molding entirely by hand. BTW, the profile on the left is the one that I made end to end. Another skill I'm picking up and getting better at. I think I'm ready to try to duplicate Paul's cove molding.

squared up the rough sawn edges
it's a small amount of real estate to keep on the edge
I can see how I went OTL (out to lunch) on my first 3 tries. I had to be on my toes keeping this running against the edge.

much joy and rejoicing in Mudville
This was with the grain and it is as clean as a whistle end to end. Sharp does fix a bucket full of problems. The iron was set a frog hair too deep but the shavings still look good albeit a bit thick.

against the grain
This turned out better than I was expecting. As I was planing this, it was tearing out down the whole length. As I planed closer to the end, it started to clean up and by the time I hit the stop, it looked pretty good.

outside groove wall tore out a bit here
That big hole to the left of my finger is the remnants of a mortise I chopped. Most of the tearing happened on this end and decreased as I planed to the opposite end.

a handful of shavings to burnish the profile

got another surprise
The shavings smoothed out the profile more than I thought they would. I can feel a big difference between the unburnished one and the burnished one. It didn't get rid of the few tear out pockets but it did feather them out some.

profile #4
This one was against the grain also but I got a better looking profile on this one. I took it slower and tried to take a shallower cut. I'm sure that if I hadn't been in such a hurry to try this out, and if I had set the iron a bit shallower, the results against the grain would have been better.

this is an interesting profile
This I've seen on pine T&G boards at the big box stores. On thicker stock this might work better yielding a thicker tongue. This board is 9/16" thick.

screws came in
McMaster-Carr didn't have these which surprised me. They had the right size and length, but they weren't threaded up to the head. I got these on Amazon Prime from the Hillman group. Brass flat head, all threaded, 10-24 screws. A box of 15 for $12.84 which is a pretty good price for a big brass screw.


clever design
Put some thread lock in the brass 'tube' on the disc and that will keep that secure. I have had some of these spin on me and now I know how they are put together. The biggest problem I've had with these is the part that screws into the threaded insert doesn't stay inserted and the threads are mangled up. Brass and steel together equals steel wins every time.

the part sticking out screws into the threaded insert
I wonder if the brass disc is an off the shelf item?

after dinner work
I found and glued up two boards that were 3 1/2" wide for the shelf. The shelf will be  6 1/2" wide.

also found a board I can use for the back stretcher
got most of the wood for the towel holder
The first shelf is now the crest rail. I only need one more board for the gallery railing but I'll hold off on that until I get the gallery spindles.

set #1 after 4 rounds
set #1 and the comparison piece
set #2 after 4 rounds
set #2 and the comparison piece
all 3 together
The two sets appear to be me to be about the same. I can't see a difference in them but I can see a difference in both sets against the comparison piece. It has been roughly two months since I last used this ebonizing stuff. The tannic acid seems to be just as effective now as then. The apple cider vinegar iron sulfate seemed also to be equally effective. The white vinegar iron sulfate didn't make it. My conclusion on this is to mix up what I need to do the job at hand. Once that is done and if there nothing on the horizon, discard it. I wouldn't keep it more than a week or two at the most. I also like the apple cider vinegar iron sulfate better than the white vinegar. It appears to be stronger and longer lasting then the white stuff. And it is better smelling. I'll be making up a new, fresh solution for each job.

I am going to put a few coats of lacquer on the biggest piece of wood in both sets. I want to see what the black looks like with some finish on it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who has won the most Grammy awards?
answer - conductor Georg Solti with 31

towel holder and more........

Mon, 02/13/2017 - 11:49pm
There was an "Aha, gotcha" with the supposed snow storm for Monday. The day was cold, windy, but sunny and snow free. All day long. Not a hint of precipitation and there isn't any forecasted for the rest of the week. I'm keeping my fingers crossed on this being the last of the white stuff this winter.

batting lead off tonight
The entire back right side was blown out. It is way too late to put a claim in for the damage, so I'll have to fix it. The cabinets are all wood except for the panels in the doors being MDF. The plywood used looks ok but feels as light as tissue paper. The fronts are solid wood but I don't know what kind.

this is it
There was no glue in the dado at all on the busted out side. The left side has this blob of silicone at the top and running down to the bottom. That is part one of how the cabinets are held together. The second part is 1/4" crown staples. That's it. I am not impressed with these at all. On wednesday I start the demo of the bottom cabinets so this has to be ready to go in thursday.

chopping the tails
I have gone from having a double row of 15 holes for the bench hooks down to 3. Of the 3, I only use one. And I only use that one to chop pins and tails. I'm still debating whether or not to put any holes for bench hooks in the new bench.

pins sawn
The chisels need to be touched up and I don't feel like stopping to do that. I will have to do that tomorrow before I chop out the pins.

towel rack is batting cleanup
I got a roll of paper towels to check the clearance on the pattern. I don't want to have this completed and have a hiccup putting paper towels in or out.

ready to cut out
I have the two halves screwed together in the waste areas. I cut this out on the bandsaw being careful to arrange the cutting so that the screws held the two halves together for the longest time possible.

cut out and ready for shaping
most of the rough shaping is done
The big 'C' shaped curve will done with the oscillating spindle sander. I tried using a spokeshave on it but I only had success with the back wall. The two curves are too tight for the spokeshave.

slight difference
Rather then use up a piece of the same board for ears, I used a piece of 1x2 poplar that I had in the wood stash. It wasn't as thick as the other board and I planed it flush because I didn't want this to catch on the OSS table.

dead nuts flush
This is going to be painted and if this is less than dead nuts flush, it will show through the paint. I got a good glue joint with no gaps on both sides. I can not detect any proud along the length with my finger tips.

I don't like this point
I do like the look of this but it is a very fragile part. This will get busted and destroyed the first time something brushes against it.

sides are done
I made the 'flat' on the point as small as I could. It is something that you can't really see head on but you can from the sides. All the shaping is done on this and I can't do much more until I get the closet rod set. I need that to get the final width of this.

the shelf
I want the shelf in a stopped dado with it being 3/4" from the front. This shelf is shy of that by a couple of inches. I have more 1/2" stock that I can use to glue to this to make up the width but I'm thinking on that.

something I'm adding
There isn't any stretcher on the back of the towel holder in the pic. I think it is something that is needed to keep the bottom of the holder from spreading out or closing in. It isn't going to be this big, a stretcher 1 1/2" wide will suffice here.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the maximum allowed weight for a PBA bowling ball?
answer - 16 pounds

major dumping of the white stuff......

Mon, 02/13/2017 - 1:36am
It wasn't supposed to snow today but that depended upon which forecaster you listened to. All said rain for today into tomorrow and a few said rain changing to snow and back to rain and maybe back to snow. Who cares beside kids hoping that school will be called off. I'm thrilled to pieces that I will get to shovel this crap again so soon.

round 3
It is getting black but not the black I recall back in december.  The top piece was done then it is more black then these. One more round to go.

second set
The pic isn't the best for rendering the colors of this but they look very close to the first set.

$6 Wally World find
This is big enough I think to soak the vise parts in. It' 27" long and 6" deep. I haven't tried it yet but I hope I can fit the tommy bar and vise rails in it.

back up to the Wally World find
This was going to be used as plan #1.  I was going to build a cheap plywood box, line it with this plastic bag, and fill it with water and citric acid. This won't have the length and height restrictions of the plastic box.

stock for the towel roll holder
needs some ears

Since this is going to be painted the same color as the spice rack, I'm gluing on some ears. The top and bottom need to be 7" wide with the center portion being about 3-4" wide. If this was to be left natural I would have used (bought) stock wide enough to start with.

last night doodling
I got most of the dimensions figured out and all that is left is the rod support for the towels. The pic my wife gave me has two holes in it and I prefer not to have any holes on this one. I thought of and discarded a drop down slotted holder. I think the leading contender right now is a closet rod holder set.

patterns done
It wasn't that easy making these because the pic is a head on shot. A side view would have been a lot better to draw a pattern off of. I have the two sides glued up and cooking by the furnace so it'll be next week before I can start this.

started the tequila box
I can get the box out of this one board. I'll have use another board for the lid. I have 2 more 1/2" thick boards like this I can use. I also have a 3/4" thick board that I can use if I can't get a one piece lid out of the 1/2" stock.

sawing out the stock
After I had sawn out all the parts I realized that I could have done it differently. I could have done it so that the grain ran continuously around the box.

done
I'm getting better at sawing the parts out closer to length. That makes it quicker and easier to square them up to length.

checking the size
I want this to be a glove fit if I can get it. I don't want the bottle to rattle around in the box and possibly break. I am pretty sure I got the length but the width is a bit iffy. If it ends up too tight and won't fit, I'll have a another box for the shop. I can then use that width to make the second box of the correct width.

caught a mistake
I did a through dovetail layout on both ends. This end needs a layout for the lid. I planed off all my layout lines and laid it out again for the lid.

stopped here
I got the tails sawn out and decided to call it a day here. I was tired and yawning and I didn't want to make another mistake.

working on the drill
I got the first screw out without any problems. The drill still won't turn and I still have the led light coming on with the trigger depressed. I'm pretty sure this is a brushless motor design so if I don't see anything obvious - something burnt or broken - I'll buy a new one.

dead in the water
My torx bit can't reach this screw. The good news is that with a magnifying glass I was able to find out that this is a T8 bit. The smallest driver hand held size I have is a T10. I'll have to look on Amazon to see what a small set of torx drivers cost.

it's been 12 hours
I put this coke in here yesterday to see how cold it would get.

it feels colder
This can is colder than the cans in my refrigerator in the kitchen. That is pretty good for such a little cooler. But I still intend to only keep OBG or hide glue in here.

My wife just told me that there is another storm coming up from the south and it is going to snow all day tomorrow. It just stopped snowing but it's going to start again around dawn and go until about 1300. I don't know where I'll be shoveling that accumulation to. I already have Mt Everest stretching from the end of my driveway to the backdoor..

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the highest scoring NBA game?
answer - the 1983 game between the Denver Nuggets and the Detroit Pistons. The Pistons won it 186-184

more snow again.........

Sun, 02/12/2017 - 2:42am
On thursday we got a 10" carpet of snow that took me almost 3 hours to shovel. That was certainly what was in the top ten things I wanted to be doing at 1800. This morning when I left for work, I had about 2 inches more of the white stuff. After I got home I had the pleasure of more shoveling. I especially enjoyed shoveling the all the snow the guy across the street (with a plow) pushed from his driveway to either side of my driveway.

My favorite shovel broke on me while I was doing this and I had to switch and use a straight handle one. For the first time in my life, my back aches. There is a dull pain right above my ass cheeks that won't go away. Sit, stand, lie down, hop on one foot, nothing seems to alleviate it. And since I took an Alleve this morning, I can't take any motrin or ibuprofen until after 1900. Oh well stercus accidit.

I forgot them
I went down and looked at these at 1900 last night and let them stay in the citric acid for another hour. Or so I thought because I fell asleep and they stayed in the citric bath for almost twelve hours.

opposite side
My biggest fear with this went unfounded. I was concerned that the acid would etch this and leave a sandpaper texture on the metal. It didn't and it feels smooth all over. Before I left for work I rinsed this off and dried them. I couldn't use the hair dryer because my wife was still asleep. I rubbed a coat of oil on both of them and went off to work.

flattening the back
Got highs and lows to deal with and the coarse diamond stone is going too slow so I switched to 80 sandpaper.

helped some
This 80 grit doesn't feel like 80 grit anymore but it was cutting better the the diamond stone.

much better looking
Got it flat with 100 grit sandpaper on my granite block.

finished it on the coarse diamond stone
I can see a flat
Used the same 100 grit paper to establish the bevel on the iron. I can feel a burr on a portion of it but not the whole width. I kept at it until I felt a burr across the entire width.

Stanley rabbet plane iron
This is the iron from a Stanley rabbet plane I once had. It didn't survive the bounce test with Mr Concrete floor but I saved the iron. Today I used it to scrape the glue residue left after removing the 80 sandpaper that was on here. The 100 grit sandpaper wasn't cutting much anymore and I dropped back to 80 grit to finish the iron.

it wasn't square
I always check for square from the right side of the iron. I never bother to check it from the left. I squared this by holding the iron 90° to the paper and dragging the iron until it was square.

got my full width burr - now I can go back to the diamond stones
this is something I should have a long time ago
working the chipbreaker
I like to polish/hone the leading edge of my chipbreakers. It helps the shavings to move over this part easily if the chipbreaker is smooth.

next to last thing to do on the chipbreaker
The front bottom edge needs some work. This has to lay flat on the entire width of the iron to keep shavings from getting between the two.

how I do it
I got this tip from Richard Maguire and it works flawlessly. It's a no brainer which is especially helpful for me.  I put the chipbreaker on the stone and let it hang down on the top edge of the wood. The slight angle is enough to put a slight angle on the bottom back of the chipbreaker that helps it to stay flat and tight to the iron.

repeating it for the 4 1/2 plane
This has what appears to be a nice flat across it but shavings were getting jammed up underneath it. A couple of strokes should point out any hiccups.

5 strokes and it's not even
I took some off on both ends but nothing in the middle. And the middle was were the shavings were getting between the chipbreaker and the iron. It took me about 5 minutes to get a continuous freshly ground look side to side.

pitted on this side (4 1/2 chipbreaker)
This chipbreaker may not end up with a shiny and smooth leading edge. This side has a deep series of pits and the other side is slightly hollowed. It also is a bit rough but not pitted.

I stropped both of the chipbreakers
the new old chipbreaker I just got
This one isn't pitted or rough but shiny. Considering it's age, I find this remarkable.

mind fart
For whatever reason, I thought the 4 1/2 iron was the same as the #8 iron. It isn't so sports fans, the 4 1/2 is the same size as the #7 iron.

fits the #8
Now I have a backup iron and chipbreaker for the #8 instead of the 4 1/2.

road testing the newly fixed 4 1/2 chip breaker
working as it should now
The very front of the chipbreaker is down tight to the iron and the back edge of it isn't. This combined with the leading edge honed and stropped, means the shavings got no where to go but to slide up and over it. I am keeping this chipbreaker in the 4 1/2 and the one I took out with the chip will be the backup.

tomorrows work (maybe)
The few times I used this, I noticed that it grabbed and dragged some. The sole on it needs to be run through the gauntlet of sandpaper grits to smooth/shine it up. I can feel a resistance when I lightly run my fingers along the sole especially toward the heel. I'll do my #4s' that need their soles touched up to remove the paint on them.

it came friday night about 1930
It was a surprise to get this. I was resigned to this coming next next week sometime. The UPS driver said it was really heavy and what was it? A wagon vise I said back and I got a black stare. The UPS driver obviously doesn't woodwork on his off time.

rail connector hardware
look at the size of this
This will outshine and outperform the rail hardware I have on my two benches now.

big boy 1/2" bolt
wagon vise connector hardware
A scaled down version of the rail connectors.

where they will go
One will go in the outside rail of the dog assembly and the bolt will go from the end cap into this. There will be a second one on the other side of the vise slot in the bench top.  This makes installing the wagon a lot easier using these two connectors.

sliding dog traveler plate
it is a full 1/4" thick
This is solid and very substantial. The big hole is where the dog goes.

the nut block
The screw goes through this and moves the dog block in and out.

knob for the hand wheel
I may not put this on the hand wheel. If I don't I'll save a couple of inches that won't be sticking out.

rough cast wheel
The shiny hand wheel (which was incredibly hard to resist) is about $70 more than this model. I went back and forth and in the end I picked this one. It will be on the right hand side of the bench and hard to see. This doesn't have any effect on it's functionality and I'm sure I'll grow to love it.

got a piece of clubber to use and evaluate
wow solid, heavy, substantial, wow again
I have been impressed to no end with this vise.

silky smooth traveling end to end
this is over the top
The machining on this is A-one double triple squared plus.

future look see
I got all the hardware and the next step is to start buying the wood.

this one I can use my Paul Sellers jig with
this one will be done free hand
This is one spokeshave style iron that I haven't seen as a after market replacement. I don't see why not that I couldn't use the one with slots in it's place. I was going to sharpen these two and said nay, nay.

played some more with this
The authorized service center will charge me $55 just to look at it. Then parts and labor is added if they can fix the problem. I can buy a bare bones drill for $81. I did the obvious things with this like put a working battery in it from another drill. I cursed at it, cajoled it, made promises to it that I had no intention of keeping, and finally tapped it (with love) with a hammer. I thought of bringing it upstairs and taking it down to parade rest but nixed that too.

another hiccup to fix yesterday
My wife unboxed the last 3 cabinets that I'll be installing next week. Before I do any of that I'll be fixing this one. The blowout doesn't look like it's going to be that difficult to repair.

this may be a royal headache
This is the back drawer rail support that should be one piece but is now 2. The drawer slides only have 'made in Austria' stamped on them. I couldn't find any numbers or a manufacturers name anywhere. My wife put a claim into the company that made these and hopefully we can either get one or at least the opportunity to buy a replacement. Something I thought of doing and nixed too.

The only thing I got done today was sharpening my new iron and chipbreaker. I had a list of other things to do but I never got past just looking at them. I don't have many days like this where I don't feel like doing anything woodworking related. I shut the lights off at 1330 and went upstairs to vegetate in my chair.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first woman to ride in the Kentucky Derby?
answer - Diane Crump  in 1970

citric acid bath time.......

Sat, 02/11/2017 - 12:12am
I only got one thing that I ordered today. I was supposed to get my Benchcrafted wagon vise today but the UPS site just says that shipments are delayed due to the storm. No updates, no nothing, so I have no idea when I'll get it. I also ordered a couple of things to come Prime from Amazon and their updates have the same storm delay blurb. So I may not get nothing until next week because I doubt they will play catch up and deliver on saturday.

0330 friday morning
Round two of the ebonizing - put on the iron solution before I went to work.

put the same iron solution on set #2 also
12 hours later
I wiped on the tannic acid on set #1 and it got blacker. I'll continue this until I have completed 4 rounds.

set #2
Huge improvement in the color. This is after one round of the apple cider vinegar and tannic acid that I used on set #1.

my first iron sulfate solution
When I first made this it would foam and produce a bazillion bubbles when I shook it. Today I didn't even get one bubble when I shook it.

looks nothing like the first time
It's hard to see in this picture but this is rather thin and watery looking. When I first made it up it had some substance to it. It was not thick but you could tell just by looking that there something more than water. This looks rusty and smells like vinegar but I get no reaction at all with it and tannic acid.

#8 iron and chipbreaker from NH plane parts
This looks pretty good and the iron has got a lot of life left in it. I now have 4 irons that I can use in the 4 1/2 and the #8. I have an extra iron (or 2) for every plane I have except for the LV BU jack and my #6.

chipbreaker side
Other than an accumulation of grunge, there is very little rust on either the iron or the chipbreaker.

chinese take out containers to the rescue
this is interesting
This puts the chipbreaker in the late 1880's or so.

I think this one say Apr 1882
probably isn't necessary
I lightly sanded both the iron and the chipbreaker and again I was surprised by how rust free they were. I wiped them down and then cleaned them both with the simple green. It is going in the citric acid next so this might have been overkill.

going for the gusto
A little less than a quarter of a cup of citric acid in two cups of hot water. I stirred it until I didn't see any more citric acid bits in the water.

1600
I read on a post about this where the author went for the gusto with a lot of citric acid and having the parts sit for a couple of hours. I'm going to try the same thing - lots of citric acid and a short bath time. I'll look at this at 1900. I plan on taking it out regardless because I don't want this to sit in the citric until tomorrow.

this bugs me
I have barely two frog hairs worth of the iron poking out past the sole and over half of the adjuster is being used to get it there.

two chipbreakers
The left chipbreaker is in the plane now. The one on the right I bought to replace the left one.

why I am replacing it
The chipbreaker has a chip missing on this corner of the plane. I haven't run into any problems with it so far but I am going to replace it.

a lot of the iron is peeking out
This is about 3 times what I normally have on the iron projection. The plane has the replacement chipbreaker in it now.

look at the adjuster
I have 3 times as much of the iron showing and less than what the adjuster was at with the first chipbreaker in place.

I have to fix this
I replaced this but chips are going underneath it as I plane. It isn't laying flat across the iron. I'll have to spend some time at the stones fixing it.

adjuster slots are slightly off
The replacement chipbreaker is not only smaller, it's adjuster slot is a bit lower. When I first put this in the plane I had noticed that I didn't have to run the adjuster out so far but didn't put 2 and 2 together.

my LN 51 shooter
I barely have the iron past the front edge of the plane which is where I usually have it. I can take fine shavings with it there.

the adjuster on the LN
It looks like it is ready to fall off and that is because it almost at the top of the threaded stud.

side view of the adjuster
I have adjusted the frog as close as I can to the mouth. You can only move that forward so far because the chipbreaker and the iron on this plane are so thick and there isn't lots of room in the throat. That thickness limits how far forward the frog can be and still have some of the iron sticking out.

It my contention that I shouldn't have this much of the adjuster used up for having so little of the iron protruding. I had sent it back to LN when I first got it and asked about this but I never got a reply or an answer to that question. I was told the plane was fine and that the lever cap was loose. That is the way I received it back too, with the lever cap loose.  My question on that is if the plane was checked out as being fine, why did I get it back with the lever cap loose? Did someone there fix that and then make it loose again to send it back to me?

My 4 1/2 has a similar problem where I think a lot of the adjuster is used up. The rest of the herd doesn't have this issue. It's a bit of a PITA to me or maybe it is just a quirk on these two planes. Either, way I've learned to work with it and a shooter doesn't need a lot of iron sticking out to do it's job.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first female artist to be inducted into the Rock 'n Roll Hall of Fame?
answer - Aretha Franklin

it's a snow day.....

Fri, 02/10/2017 - 12:33am
I went to the grocery store at 0700 this morning and it was raining lightly with the temp at 36° F (2.2°C). I was in a world of my own because I thought it was too warm to snow. By 0900, the white fluffy stuff was falling at a pretty good clip. By 1000 the snow had covered everything in sight. The good news - it stopped around 1600.

I didn't get as much done considering today was a day off for me. I found a new home for the hide glue pot, did the last hurrah on the boxes, had a couple of hiccups that I'll have to deal with later, and I ended the day with another experiment with my ebonizing stuff. I know I could have done more but I'm coming down with a cold and they usually drain me.

I didn't forget
 Making a shelf for this turned out to be an all day affair.

prepping the shelf stock
This side had a big cup and trying to flatten it after taking cold medicine was a fun adventure. It took me about 7-8 trips (traversing and at an angle) before I got it flat.

opposite side had a hump
This side went quicker.

the up side
No check for twist with winding sticks. I checked that the corners weren't rocking and left it at that. I used the #7 plane to check the side to side.

the down side
The area above the last shelf pins will be the shelf for the glue pot. The rest of the board will give up the back rail and center support.

first hiccup
This knob on my tail vise fell off. The slot in the head is chewed up and I couldn't tighten it back down on the rod. I had a spare that I put on and I'll order up some 2 1/2" long 10-24 screws so I can fix this one.

first time doing a complete round over with just a chisel
It is a little bumpy but acceptable. I can sandpaper it smooth.

both done
I watched Paul Sellers take a square board and make it round using just a saw and a chisel. I tried it on two corners and it worked for me. It isn't as smooth looking as his but I did get the round look on both corners.

dado for the center support
I sawed this out after making a knife wall. I chiseled out most of the waste and got it to depth with a router.

too tight - planed it to fit
split it out
After I split out most of the waste I used the chisel to get it down to the line. This is the first center support and I realized it was too small. Made a second larger center support the same way.

dado depth
I made the depth a frog hair below the bottom of the chamfer.

why I made the depth so deep
no gaps on this side
same on this side
I made a boo boo on a past shelf I made where I didn't take this into account. I ended up with a gap and this time I didn't. I wasn't 100% sure that I was going to hide this but I got lucky.

shelf and the rail, need a center support
this is where I realized the first one was way too small
it's new home
This is the right side of my saw till. There is a power outlet right below it that I can plug into.

some of the crap that was on the saw till
I've been using this side of the saw till as a quasi cork board. Once I have the shelf in place, I'll see about actually making a cork board for the area left over. Now I've got to find a hole for this pile of crap.

new center support blow out
I was cleaning up the sawn edge with a chisel and big chunk of wood popped off. I didn't even get a chance to say 'aw shit'.

that space shouldn't be there
It should be a continuous line from the bottom of the cove right on to the bottom.  I doesn't look too bad and I think I rescued it. I didn't want to make another one.

spokeshaving a chamfer
I thought I would do good on this area but I didn't

I thought I would have problems on the curves but didn't
fixed the bad chamfering by making it a round over
hiccup #2
I tried both of these and got so-so results. The one that did the chamfering did so beautifully. I looked at all three irons and saw the problem right away. These two irons had flats on them but not across the entire iron. No wonder I was getting shavings off one side and toast on the other. I put these with the other irons that need to be done.

thought about it and rounded over box #2
out of sequence pic and the new center support
This loaded this way somehow. I glued this up and set it aside to cook for an hour or so. Then I screwed it together.

stock for the ebonizing experiment
Both sets of wood came from the same stock. I have poplar, cherry, walnut, and ash.

last piece I did as a comparison
The second set of ebonizing stuff  with apple cider vinegar is on the left and the first batch I made with white vinegar is on the right. I'll start the first test with the iron and second test with tannic acid. I'm anxious to see if this stuff is still effective at ebonizing.

apple cider iron solution for set #1
The apple cider still had the steel wool pad in it. There was no mistaking that it had apple cider vinegar in it.

tannic acid on set #2
while the experiments dry
it's not in the way
I got this on the far side so I won't brush against it as I walk back and forth past the saw till.

I think this is going to work well
The white thing is a rheostat because the warmer heats the hide glue up close to 170°F. I can dial in the right temp with this.

hiccup #3
My drill died. The motor won't turn no matter what I do. The LED light comes on as do the green battery level indicators when I depress the switch but the motor doesn't turn.

my smallest torx driver is too big
Maybe this is an omen to go all hand tool only. I set this aside to deal with later.

found my citric acid
I bought a chipbreaker and iron for a #8 and I was supposed to get it today. I think the snowstorm slowed everyone down and I got no deliveries. When I do get it, I'll use that as my test with the citric acid. I want to see if it eats or etches the metal at all.

set #1 is dry and ready for the tannic acid

iron applied to set #2
This iron stuff still smells like vinegar but it looks like colored water. This doesn't have the same consistency that it had when I first made it. It did absolutely nothing with the wood. This is after about 5 minutes.

set #1 after 5 minutes
put set #1 apple cider iron on set#2
5 minutes later
It turning a little black but not as much as set #1. I'm conceding that set #2 iron solution is toast. It appears that leaving the steel wool in the solution pays off with a longer shelf life.

boxes are officially done
Branded, signed, and sealed with Shellac.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was the first US Navy ship named in honor of a black person?
answer - the USS Harmon DE678

box #1 & #2 are done........

Thu, 02/09/2017 - 2:16am
Got the replacement lid for #2 done but it took me past my 1700  weekday quitting time. I went over because I was so close to finishing that I didn't want to wait another day. There is also a big snow dump coming tomorrow. The forecast as of tonight, is 8- 12 inches with some out lying areas getting 12-20 inches. A few winters back we went through something similar. No snow Nov thru Jan and then a double container boatload for Feb and March.

I took tomorrow off from work and it amuses the people I work with to no end. I do not like driving home when it is snowing, period. I do not think it is worth risking it and I leave everytime the white stuff starts falling during working hours. It is supposed to start around 0900 and fall until midnight. Tomorrow I'll be safe and warm puttering in my shop.

Wally World two day shipping
It seems Walmart wants to compete with Amazon because it's offering two day shipping on a lot of products on line. This was one of them and you can get it shipped to your house or pick it up at your local Wally World. Did I mention it is free two day shipping too?

a tiny cooler
My boss got one of these for xmas from his wife and I had to have one. My local Wally World didn't have any on the shelves so I ordered it online. I ordered it monday and I got it today.

AC cord for the house  DC cord for the car
hot and cold
I don't ever anticipate using the hot setting. I can't even think of a use for it.

too big for this shelf
I could put this in the boneyard where I have tons of room for this. But I want it in the shop and close by the bench.

another landing point
This outlet is not switched off the lights - it always live. I have one source of power here and another over by the clock.

put a piece of 1/4" plywood underneath it
I got support for the front feet but it is a mickey mouse setup waiting to fail. I also don't have any room at the rear for the cooler to exhaust air. On to landing strip #2.

new home
I had to move a bunch of stuff that had residence here but I can find other homes for that.  It fits on the shelf and the rear is unobstructed. Both the air inlet and exhaust fan have nothing blocking them. And I can freely open and close the door. This is a good spot for now until I rearrange the shop and find another one.

want I bought it for
This little cooler cost $45.58 and a college dorm refrigerator can be had now for around $75. I have been putting off getting one of those because I didn't want such a big refrigerator in the shop. I don't like having drinks or food in the shop so I didn't need it for that. I wanted it to store my OBG in because keeping it cool inbetween uses extends it's shelf life. Putting 3 or 4 bottles in dorm size refrigerator is like hunting ducks with a bazooka.

this one I couldn't find another home for
I got an idea for this one and if I remember it I'll do it tomorrow. There is room for the pot in the cooler too.

pic with the lights out
I wanted to double check that this outlet wasn't switched with the shop lights. The green light is on and the exhaust fan it blowing so I'm good to go here.

plugs sawn off and planed flush
I can pick them out but they aren't easy to see. I didn't want to use walnut on these because there was only two. On box #1, I had 6 holes to plug and those were more obvious.

new lid a strong 1/8" over
can you rip with a carcass saw?
Yes you can. This was on the bench so I used it.

checking my rabbets
Now that I'm close to the pencil line I am making more frequent checks on the fit.  I labeled the back of the lid so I planed and fitted the left and right rabbets to the left and right grooves in the box. I have messed this up in the past and ended up with rabbets that were too thin for the grooves.

true to form
Even with the 10 1/2 I still plane a hump and dip down on the ends. I didn't go below the layout but If I did the size of the rabbet isn't set in stone.

new lid on the right is a strong 32nd thicker than the original lid on the left
here you can see how much the two lids are off
squaring the rabbet
The 10 1/2 squared the rabbet and the dental pick kept the throat clean.

better rabbets with the 10 1/2
I would have to be on top of my game to get a rabbet like this with the LV rabbet plane.

repeating it for the other side
too snug
I took one shallow pass on each edge and checked the fit. It was still a bit tight so I did one more round. I made sure that I took the same shaving size off both edges.

slides in/out and the back is square to the end
saddle square
This is where this little gizmo shines. I couldn't use a square to accurately transfer this line around from the bottom to the top but not a problem using this.

still a bit proud
I planed the chamfer on the end first and then planed a flat flush with the front.

chamfer and flat done at 1700
another use for the dental pick
Stuck it in a nail hole and used it to slide the lid out.

astragals planed
thumb hook is done
Box #2 is 99.99% done. I changed my mind on rounding the ends of this box but I may do it tomorrow. It's now 1715 and past my quitting time and dinner time.

box #1 & #2 glamour shot

the last box glamour shots
You can not tell by looking at these boxes that the parts weren't all 6 square perfect. You can make good stuff with just one true face and one true reference edge.Tomorrow I'll start the tequila box and maybe I'll be able  to whack that out .

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a dead mans hand?
answer - a pair of black aces and black eights

almost had a lid......

Wed, 02/08/2017 - 12:19am
I've heard it said that almost only applies to hand grenades and horseshoes. It sure doesn't apply to making lids. Close puts you in left field and with a small one, tiny errors will give you burnt toast. Tonight I got oh so close but no brass ring.

crosscut was first
I lost a couple of inches but I couldn't avoid it. I didn't want that hole in the lid and it was on the wide side of the board so it had to go.

ripping it out a 1/8" over
I also made it a 1/4" over in length too.

1/8' over
It will be a frog hair or two less after I plane the sawn edge smooth.

rabbet laid out
Trying to erase pencil marks from end grain is near impossible to do. This is one of the reasons why I made the lid a 1/4" longer than needed. A sharp plane will erase pencil marks without any problems.

10 1/2 to plane the rabbets
I have only used this plane a few times but I am really liking it more than my Lee Valley rabbet plane. I think it being a 'plane' like my other bench planes has lent a lot of familiarity with it. I enjoy using this and I don't have to deal that damn depth stop on the LV plane.

it's tapered
 I noticed that I run inboard as I go down the board. There is barely a hint of pencil at the far end. Not a deal killer because I can always plane down to the line and a little bit past it if need be.

how I start it
I went slowly and carefully this time. I tried to stay off of the line and parallel to it and I did pretty good on that. It took me about 3 runs down the board before I had a wall I could run the plane against. I still ran slightly inboard at the far end but not as much as I did on the first one.

got the tongue to fit on both sides

the rabbet is off square a bit
the versatile 10 1/2
I planed the rabbet with it, planed the shoulder square, and finally used it to get the lid width to fit between the grooves. Can't do all that with the LV rabbet plane.

a little snug and it slides in and out
Houston, we have a problem
The lid is cocked to the right. The back edge is rough sawn but it is almost square and it shows a tapered gap.

I can cock it just as bad to the left
This tells me either the lid is too thin in the width or the box is bowed on the sides. And the sides don't look bowed.

the box is square and not tapered or bowed
the lid is parallel
what is the problem?
I knew it was square - this confirms it
confirmed this end is dead nuts square
Everything points to the lid being too narrow for the opening. I planed it for snug fit at the opening and once it is in the box it gets loose as a goose.

the problem
The shims I glued in the gap extended into the groove a little ways on both sides. The lid does fit snugly between these two points.

a strong 16th over
I trimmed the shims back to the wall of the groove and checked the fit of lid. This is why the lid is cocking in the box. That is way too much clearance and especially so on a short length lid.

splitting some scrap
I only have two holes to plug on this box and I'm using the same stock as the box. I'll make another lid again tomorrow. I'll finish up tonight by doing these two plugs.

splitting it again
I sawed off this piece and from this second split I'll get the two pieces I need to plug the holes.

did all the trimming and fitting with this chisel
I took small bites and checked the fit after each swipe. I kept at it until I got a fit that filled the whole hole.

ready to glue in place
tap tap gently
I have lost 60% of my hearing but I can hear the slight difference in the pitch when this bottoms out. I can also feel it and it is very important not to do just one more tap. This wood is dry, thin, and would split out in a heartbeat. (my hearing is still normal for low sounds like hammer blows. I've lost my hearing mostly in the range that speech is in)

one last check point
I made sure that the plug didn't come through all the way into the groove past the back. That would keep the lid from closing against the back.

the tequila box
The line in the middle is the outline of the bottle up from the bottom edge. The 1x6 stock is 5 1/2 wide and the bottle is 3 1/2 wide at it's widest point. I want to ensure that I can get the lid and bottom grooves in and still have room for the bottle.

about 4 1/2"
I eyeballed the top and bottom grooves and it looks like I will have enough room for the bottle. I don't want to glue up stock for this. If I had too, I would go get some wider stock at Lowes.

my ebonizing liquids
The left and middle ones will be tried again. The one on right is iron acetate and that doesn't turn wood black. I have been thinking of trying this out as it's been over a month since I last used it and I'll be able to gauge it's effectiveness after sitting for a while.

the last thing I ebonized
I don't have a lot of wood species to try out. I have cherry, walnut and red oak I'll be trying. My plate is already kind of full but I think I can squeeze this in. Updates and pics to follow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was the first car to have a horn ring on the steering wheel?
answer - the 1936 Cord 810/812

I missed it.....

Tue, 02/07/2017 - 12:35am
Super Bowl LI was a record setter and I slept right through it. I tried to stay awake but the last thing I remember seeing was less than two minutes to go in the first quarter. My team won in spite of me not seeing it and Tom Terrific Brady went nutso on Atlanta in the second half.  He had a lot of help from the rest of the team but he was the general directing the battle. I couldn't watch the highlights at work so I'll be doing that before I hit the rack tonight.

Next year, regardless of who is playing, I'll take the following monday off to watch it.

I had to make a couple of pit stops on the way home tonight. I was in and out real quick and I didn't lose too much time. I had to stop at Shaws to get milk and the liquor store to get a bottle of tequila. That is for a friend of mine and it's supposedly in the top 3 tequilas in the world. I hope that he likes it because I don't know the difference between it or a glass of water.

came in the mail today
Can you guess what they are?

the give away
a pair of chopsticks
Ken Hatch offered to make a pair and I accepted. I was not expecting two sets of them nor to have a fancy pouch for each of them. The maple ones on the left will be my saturday chinese take out eating sticks. The padauk ones on the right will be for looking at only (for now). My wife doesn't eat chinese and I'm sure she would frown on trying eat anything with chopsticks. Maybe when the girls come to visit one of them can use these. Thanx so much for the gift Ken

the tequila
I almost had an involuntary bowel movement when I saw the price of this.  But friends are worth it I think. Of course I'll have to make a box to put this in to give it to him.

too big for the one I just made (box #1)
A quick visual check of box #2 and I saw that one is too small. This sounds a bit like the Goldilocks story. I'll be making a box that will be just right.

my newest molder
Josh wasn't woofing when he said this was a better plane. It was made by Wallace of Montreal and I'm wondering how it got out of Canada without Bob Demers snagging it first. This will mold 1/2" stock and molders in this size are very hard to come by.

one of my absolute favorite profiles
Josh says that it is a fenced 1/2" casing plane. I call it a round over with a shoulder.

of course I had to try it out
This is a piece of 1/2" poplar that will be the test drive board.

wow and wow again
Silky smooth planing action and look at those ribbon like shavings. This type of plane doesn't have a stop or at least it didn't stop for me. Long after I got the profile, I was still taking full length shavings with no feedback telling me I was close to stopping.

done
This profile is clean and smooth from end to end. This would look great on the edge of a bookshelf or a box lid.

bigger siblings
These profiles are similar to the 1/2" one. Both of these are for 3/4" thick stock and neither one makes a shoulder.

box has set up
used this to hog most of the waste off
used the small block plane to flush it
errant chisel work
I was following a grain line when I cleaned this up with a chisel. By the time I realized that it was too late. I'll be gluing a shim in here.

front half pin gap
I would not be gluing a shim in here if I had marked the bottom edge as my reference. I saved the pieces that I cut for adding the filler to box #1 and I'll use one of them here..

zona saw kerf
The thinnest piece I have is too thick for the zona saw kerf
gents saw
This kerf and my carcass saw kerf were both too thin for the shim. I used my violin plane to shave the shim until it fit.

fits now
opposite side is iffy looking
This side closed up some but not completely. I opened it with my carcass saw and glued a shim in there too.

pretty good
I eyeballed this for square and chopped it with a chisel. I checked it and I think it's good enough to use as is.

1x6 by 1/2" pine
I'll use this for making the box for the tequila. This is something that I'll have to whack out before my 'honey-do' project.

two choices for the lid
Both are glued up to make them wider and I don't like using glued up stock for lids. Of the two, I like the right better because it has a lighter color.

sometimes you get lucky
The glue line is almost a 1/4" past the groove. I should be able to saw this on the waste side of the glue line and plane down to it. It looks like this box will have a one piece board for a lid after all.

the honey-do
This is what she wants me to reproduce. It will become a paper towel holder. I have the cardboard backs from two desk calendars to use to make some patterns. I need one for the sides and one for the crest rail. I think I have some poplar I can use to make this. I would like to use cherry but my wife wants it painted the same color as the spice rack. And I'm not painting cherry for any amount of money.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the difference between a twit and a twerp?
answer - none, they are both a silly or foolish person

superbowl LI.....

Mon, 02/06/2017 - 12:38am
I tried to take a nap but that just wasn't happening. I quit the shop right after lunch and I was tired but the peepers wouldn't fail shut. But I did get some of things done I wanted to do yesterday. News and an update on whether I watched the whole game on tomorrows' post.

almost done
I screwed the holder on last night after dinner. I am on the fence with painting it or leaving it as it is. It is a shop project and I might paint when I do the next honey-do project. Which I got last night along with the orders to make as exactly as it is in the picture.

cutting down the 8-32 screw
These pliers will cut 10-32 and 8-32 screws and will do 2 others too. I've never used them so I don't remember what they are. I mostly use 8 and 10-32 screws for my projects.

for both screws
The loctite should keep both screws from moving or backing out. I don't want to have to continually check these to make sure they are in place.

now it's done - the loctite will set up in 24hrs
the right side keeper
I already have thought of one improvement and one I should have done it this way. I need to put a cover over this. I noticed that when I cleaned my stones I dribbled water on the roll. A hinged cover of some kind will keep the roll dry. The 'I should have done' this was how I did the roller. I should have drilled two stopped holes for the dowel Then made a dado down from the top down to the hole. Then I could have dropped the dowel in place and pulled it up to change the roll. Maybe on the next one.

pins laid out, sawing them is batting next
done
These tails and pins are looser the then last two I did. The box is holding itself together so I guess they are snug enough.

front view
For the most part the tails and pins are flush and the box is square. More proof that the stock doesn't need to be 6 square perfect.

made a test groove
I didn't want to add a filler strip to this box. I wanted to get the groove bottom to line up with the top of the front dead one. I made 4 test grooves before I got the 043 set correctly. It is very difficult to look through the plane to see where the outside edge of the iron is.

dead nuts
The top is aligned with the groove but I have a gap on the pin/tail connection. I planed the top of this to remove the labels and got that gap. I'll glue a shim in after the box has been glued.

bottom is 1/8" plywood
The bottom isn't going to be inset into the sides. This box is roughly 6"x9" which to me makes it small so I'll be gluing the plywood to the bottom of the box. This is sawn over sized, and after the glue has cooked, I'll flush it to the box with a block plane.

flattening the back of the torus bead plane
flats done, the cove is next
my molding plane sharpening box goodies
I have several dowels of varying diameters that I wrap different grits of sandpaper around to sharpen the irons with.

started with 220 and ended with 1200
molding iron strops
I cut up an old leather belt and made these strops. I glued the leather on with hide glue and so far, so good.

done
It's sharp and shiny. This jig works great for sharpening and honing molding plane irons. It holds the iron securely and allows me to use both my hands to work on the iron.

Yikes
This doesn't look like a torus bead. I have found that I can't always do a repeat molding. Molding planes can be quirky and they each have their own personalities to contend with. I think I moved my registration notch and this is what happens. Just tilting the plane a couple of degrees, either up or down, can change the profile. It is challenging to use some of complex molders and I would consider this a complex molder.

third try was the charm
In spite of honing the iron I didn't feel any appreciable difference in making this profile. However, it is much cleaner and smoother than the first one I did. I also think the profile is a bit sharper too.

it didn't work
I tried to clean up and get the profile to come out but it didn't work. I have yet to rescue a messed up planing.

torus bead left and astragal on the right
They are similar but there are a couple of differences. The grooves on the astragal are flat and the bottoms are in line with each other. Both of the grooves on the torus bead are slanted with the left one lower than the right one. I think the torus bead plane was used for soffit or frieze board work.

fixing another floppy lateral adjust
I sharpened and honed 4 plane irons today and I have 4 more to go. I had the iron out of this plane and I went ahead and fixed the lateral adjust now that I know how to do it. On three of the planes I have to do some work on the soles. I used them to plane painted boards and the soles needed to refreshed and cleaned up.

can you pig stick end grain?
no you can't
A tap, tap is ok but a whack splits the stock. I've been thinking about this because I have a project upcoming where I'm trying to figure out how to make a connection between an end grain end and a long grain edge.

almost made it
I almost had this but the last hit split it out. I made this by taking small shallow bites and mostly removing waste at an angle. It took a while and I was doing ok until I split it.

1/8 and 3/8 through mortise
I do a lot of this without taking pics or blogging about it. My powered mortiser is another electron muncher that I want to get rid of. A couple of times a week I practice chopping mortises with the pig stickers. I'm getting comfortable and pretty good with the 3/8 size but I still need more practice with the 1/4" and 1/8" ones.

1/4" ragged out mortise
I am getting straighter walls with this size. Two problems I'm still experiencing are mortising to a specific depth and getting a clean top. The top will be hidden so getting that clean isn't really necessary but it's a sore point with me.

sawed out a tenon
No knife wall or scribe lines on this tenon. I sawed out the whole thing using pencil lines. I did all the trimming and fitting with a 1" chisel.

scribe lines match up
this is an improvement
The mortise walls are almost plumb and the tenon is titled slightly. I'm still not ready to mortise and tenon 100% by hand but I am slowly getting there.

I got everything done today that I wanted to do yesterday except for the 4 irons still waiting to be sharpened. I have a 'honey-do' that will be batting next.  I have a picture of it and I'll have to make a pattern before I start on it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What NFL player has played in the most Super Bowls (as of 02/04/2017)?
answer - Mike Lodish with 6 and he has 2 championship rings

shop towel holder......

Sun, 02/05/2017 - 2:12am
This is something that I have wanted to make for quite a while. I first thought of this when I made my sharpening bench but I always put it off. The urge to make it was ramped up again this week and today I decided to make it. Why make excuses as to why I can't do it?  How long can it take take to make something as easy as this? A couple of pieces of wood and a wooden dowel is all that is needed. A one hour job to complete, or so I thought.

my ugly but functional shop towel holder
This holder is above and slightly behind my workbench. It is within arms' reach and still out of the way. This took me about 15 minutes to put together with the premise I would replace it later with a better looking one. It is now about 5 or so years later and I'm still waiting to replace it.

where the new holder is going
The holder will be screwed to the outside of the water bottle tray. I will also be moving that up closer to the top of the bench to make it easier to grab the towels.

the stock for the new holder
This isn't going to be a full blown nutso, take my time build. I just want a functional towel holder and looks are secondary.

the body of the towel holder
The two ends are 4" high and 6/1/2" long. On my existing towel holder I made it to fit the 'blue' shop towels which have a small diameter. Regular paper towels (larger diameter) will fit but it is a tight fit. I shouldn't have that problem with this one. The back board is the same height as the ends and has a length of 13 1/2". The blue shop towels are 11" long and the 2 different brands of paper towels I have are both 11" too. I made the distance inbetween the inside of the end caps 12" - 11" for the roll and 1" for wiggle room.

dovetailed the ends on
I could have used a simple butt joint or a rabbet but I opted for dovetails. These will be stronger and only take a few extra minutes to do. I put the pins on the back board and the tails on the end caps. My reasoning for that was the caps will need to resist the pulling of the towels off of the dowel.

done
Not too bad considering it's been quite a while since I've done tails and pins this thick (3/4"). I had one tail that I moved the baseline on but I wasn't shooting for gnats' ass tight joints. In spite of just sawing away I still got snug joints. I didn't drive this home because I still have more work to do on the end caps.

eyeballing the hole for the dowel
I positioned the hole for the dowel forward of the center toward the front edge. This way if I put a fat roll of paper towels in this it will still spin freely.

drilling the first hole
Set up a stop so that the two holes will line up with each other. The dowel has a 1 1/4" diameter and the hole I'm drilling is 1 3/8".

double triple checking myself
I took my time here and walked away from it twice and came back. I get confused very easily trying to picture which way this opposite one has to go down on the table to be drilled. It was made easier for me because both the holes go right through. This stop system wouldn't work if the holes weren't being drilled straight through.

rounding over the top edge
I marked a 2" radius on the top front edge and I sawed off as much as I could. Then I made myself feel stupid trying to use a spokeshave to clean it up. This is one tool that still kicks my butt when I try to use it on or near end grain. I got nowhere on the first one but I did make some progress on this one. I used the rasp to fair it out down to the pencil line.

glued and end checked for square
repeated on the other end
The pins and tails were snug so I didn't need clamps, I made the ends square to the back and set it aside to cook. I took a break here and went and got chinese for lunch.

almost 3 hours later
 I told myself that I had to wait for the tails and pins to set some before I played with it again. What really happened was I was checking the inside of my eyelids for light leaks for a couple of hours. Good news to report, there weren't any light leaks.

When I did make it back to the shop, I cleaned up the back of the towel holder. The tails were a few frog hairs proud and I wanted this to lay up flat on the water bottle tray.

keeper for the right side
I thought of drilling a stopped hole but I went for straight through. This small block of wood I beveled the top four edges to make it look not so blocky.  It will stop the dowel on the right hand end cap.

brass screws for the stop
This won't be seen on the right side but if I rearrange the shop it might.

chamfered the back side holes
keeper for the right side
I hack sawed off one of legs to be the keeper for this side. I will be able to swing this out of the way and withdraw the dowel so I can put a new roll of towels on.

need a slot
I need a slot on this end of the keeper to slide over the screw. It only took about 3-4 minutes to open this up with the rat tail file.

almost ready
I put two 8-32, threaded inserts in the end cap because this is pine and it is soft. I don't think wood screws would last here. I epoxied the inserts in so I'll have to wait until tomorrow before I can finish this.

what the slot will fall on
The screw head wasn't that much larger than the slot. It would have worked because the keeper isn't going to move outwards.  I epoxied a washer to increase the diameter at the top so it will be beyond the width of the slot. I'll cut this screw to the correct length tomorrow.

it fits
I had a few more things I wanted to do but those didn't happen. The light leak test ate up a lot of my shop time today. If I keep up the OT on saturdays it will probably continue like this and I may have to repeat the light leak test again.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel before Michelangelo painted it?
answer - a plain blue field with silver stars

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