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Accidental Woodworker

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The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2642125
Updated: 31 min 14 sec ago

saw donkeys pt II.......

6 hours 41 min ago
It is looking like my knock down saw donkeys may be in jeopardy. The stock is doing stupid wood tricks which should be expected considering it is 2x stock. I'm willing to wager the MC of it in the 20% plus range. Because the stock is moving I might have to change my plans for it being a knock down build.

I was still deciding on how to put on the top bearer.  After looking at tonight's movement, I don't trust a bridle joint staying true. I wouldn't even guess at which way the open mortise/tenon would move. That was my preference but not anymore. A removable pinned mortise and tenon joint was batting 2nd but I discarded that for the same reason I did the bridle joint. The leading contender now is a shallow mortise the same size as the bearer/stretcher. It will be the same joinery I used on the stretchers for the book shelves I made.

it looks good
Everything appears to be straight to the eye. There isn't any obvious cupping or bowing which is much welcomed. I thought I had dodged the bullet here.

This is one of the uprights that can't have twist. It will have a tenon on one end and the inside face will have two shallow mortises.  The bearers and stretchers going in them have to be at 90°.

all of them are twisted
Three of them are twisted in one direction and one twists in the opposite direction. The plan is to remove the twist from one face and square an edge to that. I will do all my layout and marking from those two surfaces. I won't plane to thickness nor make the edges parallel. The saw donkeys will be built with only this planing of the stock. This is a shop appliance and I want to see if what I've read about working wood this way is true. Peter Follansbee makes his chests this way and his non reference faces don't look as pretty as mine do.

putting the toolbox back together comes first
I looked up my handles on Woodcraft and they still cost $35 each (ouch).  I noticed that they have statement there now about the strength of the handles being dependent upon the type of wood they are screwed into. I don't think 3/4" eastern white pine is in the top five for strength.

too much paint on this corner
 The lid wouldn't full close on this corner until I planed it off a bit.

temporary home
I will let this cure out for a week or so and then I'll apply a coat of shellac. I'll follow that up with a couple coats of poly.

a Paul Sellers chiseling guide
I've had trying this in the back of my mind for a long time. I'm going to try it out on the stretcher mortises. I glued this and set it aside to cook. I'll add a few screws to it tomorrow.

stretchers done
I tried to plane the minimum off the faces on all four of these. They are twist free for now and I'll sticker them for another day and check them again.

my wife says this is a mess
I disagree with her. Having shavings on the bench and the deck doesn't bother me at all. They smell great and are easy to sweep up if they get in the way. I like a clean and orderly shop but something like reminds me of why I do woodworking. These are the by product of the work from my hands.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What organization did Henry Bergh establish in 1866?
answer - the SPCA  (Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals)

new saw donkeys.......

Mon, 09/25/2017 - 1:56am
The first saw donkeys I made were done in january of 2016 which surprised me. I would have bet the ranch they were done this year. So I've had them for almost 2 years but they don't have a lot of mileage. They work very well for this intended purpose but they have a few negatives. They are big, heavy, and take up a lot of real estate in my phone booth shop. I didn't use them much after their initial road test and they have since resided in the boneyard.

My first shop sawing helpers were a pair of saw benches I adapted from Jim Toplin's in his book Traditional woodworker. These are big but not as heavy as the saw donkeys. However, the two of them take up more space than the saw donkeys. I used them for a while but put them aside. I didn't like the low down, have to kneel on the stock to saw something.  These now live almost permanently in the bone yard.

The one thing I really like about the saw donkeys is the height of them. I can lean over and hold the stock with my off hand and saw with the other. My knees don't hurt nor my back, when I'm done using them. After seeing the Oregon Woodworker's blog post on his Krenov styled saw donkeys, I decided to make another set.

My first saw donkeys were made out of 4x4 stock and the new set is being made with 2x4's. That will reduce the weight of them by half. The other problem with them is the space issue. I don't use or need these all the time. So the time I don't need them, they are usually in the way. These new saw donkeys will be a knock down version.  I will be able to take them apart and lay them flat up against a wall out of the way.

filling nail holes
Before I could start on the new donkeys, I had to finish the tool box painting.

raw wood before the paint went on
This is good coverage for one coat. I don't know why I didn't think of using exterior paint before this. Exterior paint covers much better interior paints do.

some holidays here
This was raw wood here too so I'll need to put another coat on the inner lid. The rest of the inside isn't getting anymore paint.

extra screw holes from fixing the banding
I am not going to plug these for now. I may do it later but I doubt it. These don't bother me and they will hidden by tills.

barely damp rag for the nail hole cleanup
needs a another coat
I used sheet rock mud to fill the holes. The holes dished in slightly so I'll repeat the dance steps one more time.

this did the trick
debating whether or not to paint the bottom
the new saw donkey stock
Made a run to Lowes and picked up five 2x4 DF studs.

my doodling for the new saw donkeys
I'm undecided on the top bearer joint. The choices screaming at me the most are a bridle joint or a mortise and tenon. I'm thinking ahead with shrinkage or expansion because this will be a knock down set of donkeys. I don't see any problems with the stretcher and repeating that for the top bearer is another choice I didn't see.

There are doubles in the drawing - I only need 2 top bearers, 2 feet, and two stretchers. I doubled them to account for knots and other headaches that I might of run into.

this has to go somewhere else
I had to move this and the lid around to make some room so I can break down the stock for the donkeys.

this one is almost quarter sawn 
This one will give up the top bearer and the feet.

hidden knots
I only needed 3 1/2 studs but I got five so I could work around these. It has been my experience with DF that you never know what will happen when you saw into a knot like this.

angled brown knot
Brown knots are the worse kind. They are usually dry and have shrunk so if you saw on it, it falls out and you are left with a hole.  I got my layout done across the five studs doing my best to work around any defects. I couldn't avoid not having any knots at all but I was able to work around these types.

double triple checking my cut list
been a while
I knew this was going to be slanted because I could see the tilt in the saw as I sawed. I could have corrected it but completed it as is. I allowed plenty for corrections.

marked a plumb line to saw on
it helped a lot
It worked but it was awkward to do because I had to kneel to see what I was sawing. I only did it on this one and for the rest I concentrated on keeping the saw 90° to the board and sawing on the line. I did ok and I didn't have another slanted cut like the first one.

no way to avoid any knots
I got lucky with the stock I used because the area where the joinery will be done is clear grain with no defects.

everything cut to rough length
not in use - they eat up a lot of space
left over stock
This won't be wasted. I can use this for something else for sure.

getting an idea of what they will look like
^%#@!!)&;;;*(*$@%& rounded edges
Made a call here for getting rid of the rounded edges. I used the tablesaw to do that and trim them down to 3". And since I was using the tablesaw, I sawed all of them to length too.

this is toast
This is a split and these are more annoying then knots. This was going to be a stretcher but now it's going into the burn pile. I milled another stretcher out of the left over stock.

new stretcher rough sawn to length in the vise
I do saw in the vise now more than I have in the past. I think that is mostly to do with my skill with sawing getting a wee bit better. Still not a favorite of mine but I do use it.

pattern stock
The 2x4's are the same width and thickness as the donkey parts. I'll use these to set the marking gauges and figuring out joinery. The piece of plywood will be used to make the profile for the feet ends. I don't want a rectilinear look everywhere. This is also practice for when I will do the same detail on my new workbench.

pattern laid out
can't use the bandsaw
I could have but I didn't feel like clearing it off.

vertical cuts with the Zona
circular cut with the coping saw
This saw cut was not that easy to make. Because of the thinness of the plywood and it projecting up higher than I wanted, it took a lot of concentration. I had to stop and restart quite a few times because the bench got in the way and I couldn't turn the saw to continue the cut. I am going to look into the vertical vee notch sawing jigs I've seen. That would have worked well here.

looks ordinary and needs help
The 'notch' at the bottom looks funny to my eye. It has to be shortened or something to remove the clunky look.

two step haircut
I sawed off about half of it and still didn't like the look of it. On what was left I sawed this slant which I do like.

clipped the top notch to complete the make over
some divider work
It took me 4 tries before I got 3 equal steps.  I know that the two points I have here are the center of the board.

set the mortise gauge to the divider points
It took a while but I finally got the points of the mortise gauge in the divider points. I checked it by running the gauge against each face and the both lined up. This ensures the mortise layout will match up with the tenon layout. I've had problems in the past with this mostly because I didn't gauge off the reference face. Here it doesn't matter which face I use.

1/2" pigsticker
Entertaining chopping all the mortises with the pigsticker. It is a frog within the gauge lines.

it's dull
The plan is too use a through mortise between the upright and feet. These can be pinned and glued and it should be a strong joint.

quick look to see how flat the back is
touched up the tip
It was a little easier chopping but this pigsticker needs to spend a lot quality time on the stones before I can chop mortises with it.  Not only did I have no problems getting a burr doing either face, I noticed that I got a burr chopping the mortise.

1/2" chisel
What a huge difference in chopping with a sharp chisel over a dull one.  I tried my LN 1/2" socket chisel too but it wasn't as sharp as this one. It did chop better than the pigsticker but the LN is getting dull.

drilled 3 holes
The third hole over the middle one was a knot. One of the fun things to expect working with DF. This is how I used to do all my mortise work. Drill a bunch of holes and chisel it out. I'm undecided right now but I think this is the way I'll do the donkey mortises.

not too bad of a mortise
This is a lot better than the last mortise I remember doing this way.

it's a consistent 1/2" end to end
I painted it
I did the bottom because of where this is going to live. It'll be on the cement floor and with this painted it should help with keeping the moisture from getting into the interior. I have also flooded out the basement a few times and it's home is a low spot for that.

I normally don't do this with 2x stock because I don't know what the moisture content is. Some of the 2x4's were light and one was heavier than the others. I'll work with what I have tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Which US President is third for having places named for him?
answer - Abraham Lincoln

lackadaisical saturday......

Sun, 09/24/2017 - 3:03am
My saturday started way before oh dark thirty. I did some OT and going in early to do that kind of killed any motivation to do anything today. Part of that is I don't have a project to occupy my attention that involves wood. I have a quite a few tool rehabs that have been simmering on the back burner that I could do. But I convinced myself that I didn't want to get my hands dirty working metal.

I could make something like this from the Oregon Woodworker to tide me over project wise. I had made a set of these out of 4x4's last year (?) and they work but are a PITA to move around and use. I like the lighter look and weight of these. I am not a fan of a saw bench but I dido like sawing on my saw donkeys. I was still suffering from my bigger has to be better sickness when I made the 4x4 monsters I have. Lowes sells Douglas Fir 2x stock and I will make a run to get them tomorrow.

I should be working on new workbench. But my wife threw a huge monkey wrench into that happening. She decided that she wasn't paying the Lowes credit card bill anymore because I had paid off my VISA card. I had forgotten all about it because she has been paying it for the last few years. So I took all the $$$ I had saved up in the bank for the workbench and gave it to Lowes. The plan is to have it paid off by the end of October. I still have high hopes that I will at least be able to make the base for it this year.

first use of the miter box
 I think for most of my saw cuts that I will do them without this. I am using this here to saw a 22.5° angle on the ends of the handles on the big toolbox till. For angle cuts and repetitive cuts to the same length, I will use this.

The auxiliary base I used is 3/4" and it is not thick enough for this. I can barely make out the saw kerf made by the saw. If I remember it I'll get a 5/4 pine board from Lowes tomorrow. That thickness should be ok and I should be able to put a saw kerf in it.

one 22.5° cut done
 This is not off the saw. This is the after pic cleaned up with the block plane.

the before pic right off the saw
This is too rough looking for my tastes and that is why I planed them.

the 2nd after pic planed up
This was all the woodworking I did today.

worth the calorie expenditure
To my eye this dresses this up and it looks better than squared off ends. If hadn't used a molded piece but a flat one, I still would have cut an angle on the end.

need to fix one more thing
 I noticed a problem with the dust band molding I put on last thursday. This side the gap is thin as is the front on the left side. Also notice a ugly looking paint drip on the lid as I looked at this pic. Yikes!

the right side has a gap
I had used my 4" square to set the distance of the banding from the top of the toolbox. The only thing I can think of that may have caused this is my planing of the lid. Maybe I took a few more strokes  off the right side then I did the left. I could have also planed a slant in the lid. This has to be closed up

one more fix to do
When I installed the banding I forgot to trim the side pieces to length. I want the end of the molding will line up with the end of the toolbox. On this end it is a hair over an 1/8" and less than an 1/8" on the other one. The banding is only glued at the miters and is screwed to the toolbox from the inside. This wasn't luck, but something I planned for just in case I had to replace or repair it. I didn't expect to be doing it so soon. The fix was quick and easy. I screwed the right side back in place using new screw holes. I don't plan on plugging the holes.

my Preston chamfer spokeshave
I was playing around with this before I did the toolbox fixes. I was planning on stripping this and rehabbing it today. I sanded the iron and this popped out. It is an original Preston iron - not sure if it is original to this tool though. I ran into a problem in that I am missing washers. They are needed for the sliding stops that are at the top right to secure them. With no washers the thumbscrew goes in the slot and the stops still move. So off to Lowes I went (this was before I thought of making the saw horses).

that is the size I need
The number 10 washers I just bought are too small. Being clever, I was going to get a #12 washer. Lowes didn't have a #12 washer. They go from #10 to 1/4". McMaster-Carr sells #12 washers ($13@100 plus S/H) but I'll have to measure this one and see if I can match it with what McMaster sells.

I bought an assortment package of washers
 As a general rule, I don't like buying assortments. In this case I did it for two reasons. First to find two washers I needed for the spokeshave and two was for the small lock washers. I don't have any other than 1/4-20's. The assortment gave no joy with a washer that fit. The 1/4-20 was a bit too big and of course I have a boatload of them.

I couldn't find a fit
 The thumbscrew fit the 7/32 size loosely and nothing on the metric size. Everything I checked there was either too small or loose.

too loose in the 6mm hole
It is too big for the 5mm and there isn't a 5.5mm hole. Moot point as I don't know if Preston was using Metric when it made this and two, I don't know the size of the screw. I don't have a metric screw pitch gauge nor a Whitworth gauge. From what I read about Whitworth, the sizes below 1/4-20 are a close fit with imperial.  (McMaster has 5.5mm stuff but not 5.5mm thumbscrews or 5.5mm washers).

painting the toolbox
The best way to paint something like this and not get paint on the hardware, is to remove it first. It is a few extra dance steps but it pays off with a better looking job.

first coat
I used flat exterior paint because it will cover better than an interior paint. I picked a color called nocturnal green I picked it for the color, not the name). Paul Seller's toolbox was painted a blackish green color that I liked and this looks to be pretty close to that. Two coats on the exterior and I'm hoping to get away with only one coat on the exterior. The inside of the toolbox is not going to be painted.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the Great White Way?
answer - the nickname for the theater district on Broadway in New York City

Stanley 2358 done......

Sat, 09/23/2017 - 12:37am
It's done. After sitting unloved for months and with relatively few calories expended, I have a miter box. I also have a Stanley 358 miter box but that one is missing a lot of parts. It was also used and abused, and put away wet. Needless to say, it has a few issues. The big plate saw I have came with that miter box. Now that I have a functioning miter box we'll have to see if I use or just look at it.

I was looking at Lie Nielsen's miter box saws with the thought of maybe buying one. The largest saw they offer is 28" long with a 4" saw plate that is 0.032 thick. Both of the miter box saws I have are 0.045 and 0.048 thick. They are also longer than 28". LN is the only maker of saws that I know of that offers miter box saws but they state their saws will fit Langdon or Miller Falls miter boxes. I can't remember which of these Stanley bought out?

pretty much even
The back one is bit higher on the left side and there is a solid contact with both on the bench. I whacked the back one down until it matched the front one. Why is the front one longer on the left?

replaced the phillips head screws
These screws are a 1/4-20 and I have a lot of these. I'm replacing the crappy PH screws with the slotted one that has a much larger head with a fair size bearing surface. It looks to be 3 times the PH bearing surface real estate.

the far left and near right are high
it was awfully close
When I flipped the box up onto it's feet, it was almost a four point contact. In hindsight, maybe I shouldn't have corrected it the way I did it. I gave the two high feet a whack with the hammer and checked it. It took a couple more before I got a perfect no rocking 4 point contact.

This miter box frame is cast iron and cast iron is strong but not as strong as you might think. It is very easy to stress it causing a break or crack. I didn't think that far ahead when I did my love taps on the feet. What I should have done was check the lay of the land, remove the feet and whack them, put them back on and check it. Start the dance steps again if I didn't have a 4 point contact.. Sometimes you get lucky.

front saw guide post
I am missing the screw on the back post and this one is the front one. I screwed this all the way down to see if I could get the $25 saw closer to the base.

blurry pic of the screw
I am not 100% sure of what this screw is for but it will raise or lower the saw guide post. Doing that raises or lowers the height of the saw relative to the base. The missing screw in the back post explains why there was at a slant front to back.

a little more than a 1/2" shy
I got the $25 saw to get a lot closer to the base. I can screw a 3/4" sub base to the existing one without losing any capacity.

the cut with the $25 saw I forgot last night
the $25 saw has a 3 1/2" plate
I don't know the age of this saw nor the maker. In my Stanley catalogs, the smallest miter saw plate is 4" so maybe this one has just been sharpened down to this?

the big plate saw fits - it has a 4 3/4" plate
Before I put the handle back on, I wanted to make sure it fit.

these hold downs
Stanley calls them 'stock guides'. Whatever they are called, they work surprisingly well. I made several cuts at 90 and 45 just using the stock guide and had no problems with stock movement. I did have a few problems holding the stock with my free hand and sawing. I had a hard time holding the stock steady as I sawed.

sawed a 90 and then a R/L 45
pretty good for off the saw with a molded profile
The molded profile doesn't match up but it's square.

better profile fit and still square
These are the two off cuts from the R/L miters.  All the saw cuts except for the first pic, were all done with the big plate miter saw.

found a piece of plywood for a base
it pays to be a pack rat
it's new home for now
The miter box is done. With the base screwed on I now have something I can put in the dogs or use bench hooks to secure it. That will keep it from dancing around as I try to saw something on it.

both saws will live here
For now I'll be using the $25 saw unless I have to saw anything deeper than 3". The underside of the spine on the big plate saw has scallops on both sides. One side has more than the other. When pushing the saw back and forth through the guide posts, the scallops cause it to jump up and down. It makes sawing a bit harder to do. The action is no way as smooth or as bump free as the $25 saw is. Both saws are within an 1" of each other in length so I am not losing any capacity in that direction.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the last element on the periodic table?
answer - Ununoctium                                              

Stanley 2358 miter box......

Fri, 09/22/2017 - 1:26am
Finally did something with the miter box. It has been gathering dust since I bought earlier this year. I decided to see if I could get it together and start making sawdust with it. I had bought it already rehabbed for $$$ I don't remember and I had bought it for this reason and that it was complete.

almost forgot this
The last saw I sent out didn't have this shipping info in the inside of the box and I almost lost it in the USPS system. I unscrewed the lid to put the to/from in it and I found that I had deleted the shipping address I had gotten as an email. I will have to wait to get it again and this will most likely go out on saturday.

all the parts are here
This is what the seller told me. All the parts except for the saw but I already had one. In fact I bought another miter box saw I for $25. I'll be trying that one out in the box first.

axle hitch grease
I spread some grease on this and the same part on the swinging arm.

not lining up
I got the bolt holding the arm screwed in but the front end isn't aligned. There are two pins here, one large and one small that are the problem.

the angle detent
This is what is not lining up for me and not giving me a happy face. There is a small pin on the arm that falls into the detent to lock the arm. It isn't even close to lining up.

the smaller pin is for the angle detent
I didn't know what the larger pin is for right now. I thought maybe it was a bearing surface for possibly keeping the arm at a certain spacing between itself and the half circle with the detents.

the light bulb came on when I saw this.
I was preparing to take the arm apart at this end. I could see that the arm had to go further towards the back to align the detent pin with the detent holes. As I turned this on the side the large pin moved to this position. This obviously hooks on the half circle somehow and then the detent pin should line up with the detents.

how it has to go on
The hook on the big pin goes on the half circle on this end (or the other one). Doing this by myself was incredibly awkward and a huge, huge, PITA. I was swearing so much at this that even I was blushing. I tried raising it up on my gluing helpers but they won't high enough. Hanging it off the bench didn't work because the arm was at the 45°. I didn't have enough arms and hands to do it horizontally and still see what I was doing.  I finally got some joy with standing it vertically on one end. It wasn't ideal but I was able to get the arm hooked on the half circle and the bolt screwed down.

how it goes on
I had this very loose and managed to hold it in a detent while I got the bolt screwed in.

setting the tension
This screw sets how tight the big pin hook is pulled down onto the half circle groove it turns in. If you tighten it down too much, it pulls the detent pin down too. I tightened it to where it first started to pull the detent pin down and backed it off a 1/4 turn. I'll have to use it for a while until to get a feel for it before I change it.

I had taken this off first thinking it might have been interfering with setting the arm. It didn't and has nothing to do with positioning the arm in any way. I screwed it back down and set it on zero.

the base feet are toast
Only three of the legs touch the bench. I won't be able to screw this to an auxiliary base until I straighten them out and get a 'four' point contact.

$25 saw
It fits and it doesn't fit. This is as far as the saw will drop which makes it good for only sawing air.

found some help
The 2x4 raised the bed up high enough that I could saw a piece of scrap. The saw behaved much better than I expected. The sawing action was smooth and easy.  I was able to hold the stock and not have the saw grab and move it. The saw is also sharp and easily went through the stock with no hesitation at all.

multiple saw cuts
I only made one 90° and a bunch of 45° cuts (all from the right side). The face of the cut isn't a planed surface but the roughness of it isn't terrible. I would put it above a 80 grit sandpaper feel and below a 120 grit. I would be alright with using stock off the saw with this box.

this is a pretty good lucking dry fitted 45°
I can definitely live with this
supposed to have two of these
This is part of the system for setting the depth of the saw cut. I took off the two of them (one set on the front and rear saw posts) to see if I could get the $25 saw to sit deeper. It did nothing for that and I lost the back one. I unscrewed the back one by reaching over from the front and I dropped the screw which fell on the deck and this which landed where?

I checked under the bench where I keep the planes and hadn't fallen there. I swept the floor and piled the shavings up and sifted through them trying to find it. No joy. I then ran a magnet through it and I only found that my #6 screws I used on the shipping box are magnetic. I didn't find what I was looking for.

look what I found

I was screwing the parts back on the saw guide post when I saw it. There much tumultuous joy and dancing in Mudville.

what is this?

they are laying flat here
I didn't check it but I can't imagine the cast iron base on the miter saw not being flat. I was hoping one foot would be high making it easy to fix. It looks like I'll be putting them on, banging on them, until it lays flat. I'll try that tomorrow because now it's shop quitting time. Wrestling with the arm trying to get it on took more time than I thought.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What did Francis Crick and James Watson find in 1953?
answer - they are credited with discovering the DNA double helix

shipping box done....

Thu, 09/21/2017 - 1:13am
Over the past few weeks I've been reading what I can about the art of hammering kinks out of saw plates. I am sending one out to be done and I have two unkinked beater saws that will become scraper stock. I am thinking of trying to kink them first so I can practice on them. From what I have seen and read, it doesn't appear to be rocket science requiring a PhD to do. I can probably with practice do it but I don't want to practice on my grandson's saw.

another after dinner outing
The glue had set up on the bottom so after dinner I  came down to the shop and screwed it. I removed the screws from the corners as they weren't needed anymore. The glue and screws on the bottom will hold the box sides in place.

replaced the screws with miller dowels
I split all four corners driving the screws in which was expected. I didn't predrill because I use spax screws which are pretty good for not needing a pilot hole. I still haven't found a screw that will drill into end grain without splitting it. With or without a pilot hole.  I forced some glue into the cracks and clamped them. This is where I started tonight in the shop.

foam insulation
This was the packing material that was used to ship my miter saw to me. I'm going to reuse it on my saw.

This piece of scrap is the same thickness as one side of the saw plate to the outside edge of the handle. This will keep the saw plate straight in shipping to and from.

I'll put a piece of foam on top of it when I ship it

sawing this is as easy as ripping a piece of paper
didn't even clog the teeth
the most important part
A couple of years ago I had shipped a saw out to Bad Axe to get sharpened. Mark told me to protect the horns on the handle. He said these often came to him broken.

sawed the proud off on the bandsaw
The box isn't a nice rectangle. It is wider at one end then the other to better fit the shape of the saw. This is the wide end.

ready to address and ship
I sanded all the edges and ran my fingers along them to make sure there weren't any catch points. I marked this side as the one to be opened.

The big storm we were supposed to get turned out to be the big bust. The forecast was for 3-5 inches of rain and 50 MPH plus winds wednesday night. When I went to work this morning it didn't even look like it had rained. And I saw no wind damage anywhere on the drive in to work. The next few days will be cloudy with off and on rain until sunny skies come back on saturday. What I went through is nothing compared to what the people in the south had to endure.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a milquetoast person?
answer - someone who is meek or timid

toolbox 99.99% done.......

Wed, 09/20/2017 - 1:35am
I am done with upgrading the toolbox woodworking wise. The last 0.01% left is to paint the dust shield banding I put on. I will also paint the rest of the tool exterior again. After it has been painted I'll put on a couple coats of satin poly. That will make it easier to clean the dust off of it. I'm looking forward to filling it with tools for Miles.

done right

These are the dovetails I expect of myself each and everytime I do them. On the times I fail to meet this standard, I have to use epoxy.

top edge flushed and cleaned up

till fits and slides easily R/L and L/R
Now the woodworking is done.

small gap
Both tills are up against the handles on the big till leaving this space.  There really isn't enough room to reach down beneath and take tools out. The space will allow moving either till toward the middle and lifting it out. You can then place the till onto the other one and have access to the bottom till.

the determining factor
This 12" steel ruler drove the size of this till.

the way I wanted the rule to go
The ID of the toolbox is  12"  so there wasn't any way I could have made a till to fit the ruler this way.

got his herd of planes in the box
I'm glad for this. The planes are a lot safer now in the toolbox then living on the dump table under a towel.

it's temporary home
This doesn't have many tools in it and it is heavy. I am not sure the handles I have on it will be able to handle picking it up fully loaded. Something I'll have to keep an eye on.

first temporary home
I keep the vacuum cleaner here and my standup to use dustpan and brush so it got ruled out. Eventually the toolbox will be stowed underneath the table on the left. I've got to clean that space out and find a new home for the crappola I have there now.

is it ok to change your mind on tools
I have used this marking since I went whole hog into hand tool woodworking about 6 years ago. It took me a while to get used to it and there haven't been any instances where I couldn't use it. One frustration I have with it is sharpening it. You have to keep this wicked sharp at all times in order to get optimum performance out of it. Sharpening a spear point, free hand, is not that easy for me to do.

Lee Valley throw away
 This marking knife is actually pretty good. I have sharpened it so much I changed the spear point profile. It is like the Energizer Bunny, it just keeps on going. It's a spear point and that means hard to sharpen, especially so being a small one. That and wishing the plastic was wood is killing this one. Although lately I have been using this one much more than the big spear point.

old time marking knife
I bought this from the Best of Things and it took me a long time to fettle the business end. I used it for a while and set it aside. It's been promoted again to head of the class. This is, or will be Miles marking knife but I'm going to give it a try again in the interim.

back is flat and shiny
this is what I've come around to again
I like this broad flat surface to run the knife against something. It was originally why I bought it but I was turned off by it's small size. I have since gotten use to small size marking knives by using the Lee Valley throw away.

cleanly incised line and easy to see

clean and neat line too
Of the three marking knife, this was the easiest one to make a line with. It is sharp right now and I know when to sharpen because it will drag when making a line. All three make the same incised line but the old time marking gauge is the only the didn't leave any fuzz on the exit. The LV knife left the biggest one because it must have picked up a burr.

my squares are getting chewed up
This is another reason why I want to try using the old time marking knife (again). I am hoping that it's broader contact area will stop me from doing this. With the spear point knives I tend to tilt the knife and catch this edge.

I also have a Lee Valley spear point marking knife with a wooden handle I forgot to snap a pic of. The business end of that has a broader, shorter profile than my big knife. I tried that for a few days and put it away. I didn't like that one at all.  I will try to do all my marking with the old knife for now and see what shakes out with it.

one of Miles panel saws
This saw has a few kinks in it. I am sending this out to have the saw plate straightened and filed for a rip cut.

Miles saws
L to R, the kinked crosscut, crosscut, and a dull rip with no set.

11 TPI
This is the small rip saw and it is the only one that has the TPI stamped on it. All three saws have no etch at all that I can make out.

I like the hang on this saw
This will get filed for 7 TPI rip. I think that the teeth may have to be punched for that.

getting an idea for the saw till size
It looks like a 25-26" ID will do for the length.

as is it is 6"
Wiggle room and some kind of holder will add a couple of more inches to the width ID.

until I make the saw till
shipping box
I could not find a cardboard box that approximated the size of the saw. I am making a custom one out of scraps.

screwed the corners
I will glue and screw the bottom on and just screw the top. Once the bottom has been glued and screwed, I'll remove the screws from the corners.

glued and cooking
I'll finish this tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What are Stratocumulus, Stratus, Cumulus, Cumulonimbus clouds classified as?
answer - Low Level Clouds (0 to 1.25 miles)

toolbox almost done......

Tue, 09/19/2017 - 1:05am
The upgrading I've been doing on the toolbox is almost done. I glued the bottom on the last till tonight and it'll be ready to put into the toolbox tomorrow. The toolbox has handles so that isn't an issue but a lock might be. I've been thinking about one and I've been back and forth on it being in and out. For the time being, the toolbox will be in my shop so a lock isn't necessary. I think I'll wait on it until Miles comes of age so he can decide.

I am not going to put saws in the toolbox. I had watched a toolbox presentation on the evolution of them from about 1660 up to the late 1800's. According to the person presenting he said saws were not commonly kept in toolboxes. I found that hard to understand when all the tools a craftsman needed were supposedly in the toolbox. How did he saw anything? The presenter said saws were kept in a separate saw till. Although he did show a few chests with saws stowed in the lid and in the interior bottom.

I like the idea of a separate saw till to hold Miles saws. I have a crosscut and rip saw for him already and I am going to get a dovetail, carcass, and tenon saw too.  Making a saw till for him will free up that space in the toolbox for other tools.

blue tape to the rescue
Another after dinner fix. When I was flushing the plywood I blew out the middle ply on the plywood. Super glue and blue tape fixed that.

I can't see it
The epoxy has set up on the tails and pins and they are solid feeling. All the tails are fully seated and there are some gaps on the sides. They aren't too bad as you see here so it appears the epoxy worked.

cleaned and flushed up the top
This till is done. I'm not putting any finish on it and no handles. Bob said to leave the space between them so I can pick them up. I agree with him.

gluing on the bottom
The width matches and I left if long because one end was wild and ragged out. I nailed 3 corners to hold it in place while I glued it.

glued, clamped, and cooking
handle stock
This was a practice run and the profile is a grecian ovolo.  It will make a better looking handle than a squarish one.

the before and after
 I sawed out two 4 inch handles and I rounded over the top and bottom.

found some screws
 I am going screw the handles on for now. I want to play with them for a while before I commit to gluing and screwing them.

set my 4" square to the depth
screw holes done
I used the square to set the depth on the outside of the till. The handle is flush with the top of the till and I put the screws in on the outside first then the middle one.

should have erased that pencil line
I marked the outside edge of the handle and then a 1/2" in from that for the screw. I'll plug this errant hole somehow. I countersunk the holes so I could bury the head of the screw so it wouldn't stick out so much.

laid it out right on this side
they work well
No problems grasping the handles and lifting the till and out of the toolbox. It didn't feel awkward nor was it difficult getting a grip on the handles.

I don't like the flat look on the ends
This may be the impetus for me to get my miter box put together. I think these would look better with an angle sawn on the ends or maybe a round over.

my backyard maple tree
This is the first time that this tree has turned and dropped leaves this early that I can recall. It usually keeps it's leaves till the end of October and beyond. I told my wife about it and she said she noticed that the leaves had a brown spots on them last month. It looks like it got bugs or a disease from something.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
On the Bob Newhart show (1970's), what was the apartment number he lived in?
answer - 523

now I have sliding tills......

Mon, 09/18/2017 - 1:41am
Before I got to the tills, I spent some time searching You Tube on tool chests. I had seen one that showed the chain trick that I copied but I couldn't find it again. I thought I had found it a couple of times but when I didn't see the chain trick, I knew those videos were toast. After searching You Tube I changed lanes and searched Saw Mill Creek and the WWW.  I had joy in finding it again.

I like this chain trick and how it dealt with an annoying problem with the chain falling into a till. The problem with that is the chain coils in the till and it can catch tools and pull them up as the lid is opened. I think my problem with not finding the chain trick again is I watch and read a lot of things.  Just punch in tool chest in on You tube you will get over whelmed with videos. I'll keep looking and I might come across it again.

after dinner on saturday
This is what I saw on sunday morning. I packed this into the void as hard as I could. When I couldn't stuff anymore in it, I mounded it up. I'm glad that I did it because this morning I can see that it shrunk a bit.

can you work epoxy with hand tools
chisel works
The chisel had to take small bites. The chisel is sharp and anything more than a wispy shaving, the chisel would balk. Leveling it with the chisel would have worked but it also would have taken a lot of time.

the winner
I set the plane to take a thin shaving and planed this flush in no time at all.

If I had thought of it, I could have dyed this to darken this up. That would have looked better to my eye than this opaque white patch.

out of the clamps
Both of the till/trays didn't come out square. That proves again to me that clamping something with a square doesn't ensure a square outcome.

larger of the tills
Of course it is the last side I was planing when this happened.

easily pulled the other sides apart
I looked the joints over and found only two little bits of pins & tails that were still attached. This wasn't a failure of the hide glue but a failure caused by gluing bad joints.

large till dry fitted back together and it slides
smaller till survived the planing clean up
not square
The big till is square but this one isn't. It is tight into the corner at the bottom and runs out to right at the top.

the two tills won't fit in the big till
the larger till
I epoxied the till back together. Given the looseness of the dovetails gluing it again with hide or yellow glue would be futile. I used 5 minute epoxy and with a 1/4" plywood bottom glued on I think they will keep it together.

squared the frame and took a coffee break
Even though it is 5 minute epoxy I still like to let it set up for 24 hours before using it.

chisel box
These were the first chisels I got back when back in late 1970's. They are metric which I didn't find out until years after I had owned them. They are also complete crap. The will sharpen up and look good but they dulled very quickly. I am going to make a second till this size for Miles chisels. They won't be this crappola but something else.

the smaller till
I'm going to reuse these till parts to make the new smaller one.

the two tail sides will be shortened
the larger till
At least I did good job on closing up the interior corners.

gluing the bottom on the larger till
I sawed the bottom to be a very close fit to the bottom. To keep it from shifting as I glued it, I nailed 3 corners. I set it aside to set up and went back to work on making the new smaller till.

sawed and squared up the new sides
did my layout
After I got the four of these laid out, I looked at them and they looked odd. Since I was doing tails being marked from the pins, I thought it was ok.

something was wrong
I had already started chopping these and stopped. I did something wrong as I was chopping pins and I already have two sides with pins. Something was awry.

my tail lines slant in the wrong direction
sawed a practice one
I was still confused here thinking this is odd but ok. I'm a tails first dovetailer and have been since the beginning. I did make a box doing pins first to try it and I haven't done pins first since then. Trying to get into the mind set of pins first was giving me a headache.

practice joint
As soon as I put it together I saw what I had done wrong. When I laid the pin side board onto the tail board to mark it, I did it wrong. I had to turn the pin board 180 so that the front side on the edge was now facing the other way. That gave me the 'correct' slant marking for the tails.

got it finally
crappy fit - it's too proud
bottomed out
the other end
This is caused by this side piece being a shade thicker than the other 3 pieces. I'm not going to bother trying to reuse this till and I made a whole new till from the ground up.

ganged sawed the tails 

chopping the pins
I did most of the saw cuts with the Zona saw. I ganged sawed the angled cut on the tails with my LN dovetail saw. I sawed the half pin saw cuts with the Zona saw individually.

back to my mastery
The first small till I had done all the sawing with the LN dovetail and I think that those saw cuts were too rough and caused my loose joints. This time after using the Zona saw the till is self supporting. The joints are snug and shaking this did nothing to loosen any of the joints.

glued up and squared
This till joinery is good enough to glue up and put aside until it sets up.

big till fits
It was little snug so I planed the sides and until it slid R/L, L/R easily end to end.

both tills
I may make a third till to fill in the hole. I don't see much of an advantage to having sliding tills and this small hole. This is a small toolbox and storage is at the head of the class here. It may be a PITA to lift out tills to get access beneath but it is what it is. I can sleep on the third till for a while and making it will be dependent on what tools I get for Miles.

needs to be cleaned up
I will plane this up and make it pretty tomorrow. I don't want to stress the joints until then.

handle idea
My first idea was to put this scrap of wood in between the side of the toolbox and the till. On this side it would be in the same spot where the chain is attached. I also thought of sawing a handle hole in the till and backing it up with a brass plate. This is the latest idea to grab hold of my limited attention span.

this would work
I have the room to do this and not have any interference from the tills or the contents. The big till needs handles or something to help with getting it out of the toolbox but I'm not liking my choices so far all that much.

the marking gauges fit in the bottom
I can slide the till over the marking gauges which I wasn't expecting.

won't fit in the top till
This is where I wanted to stow the marking gauges but no joy there. Stopped here for the day because it is a bit uncomfortable in the shop with the humidity today. I'm wrapping up the toolbox for now and my next adventure will be some much needed maintenance. Maybe

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What are the seven seas of the world.
answer - Antarctic, Arctic, Indian, North Pacific, North Atlantic, South Pacific, and South Atlantic

sliding till day......

Sun, 09/17/2017 - 3:03am
Saying the tills I made today are tills I believe is a misnomer. Hows that for a ten dollar word meaning that my description of the tills is inaccurate. They are tills, I think, but they aren't sliding ones. I made two of them with a small space between them. So in that respect they do slide about a 1/8" but it isn't  the same as the as a real sliding till.

I'm still at a loss for deciding on some kind of a handle for any of the tills. The two small tills (or trays) on the top aren't a high priority. The bottom, big till, needs some kind of handle help. This one has to come out in order to get to the bottom of the toolbox. Miles isn't going to be using this for quite a while so I have time to cook up a few ideas.

plywood bottom glued on
I got this done about 0830 and I let it set up until after lunch. The solid wood is only 3/8" thick so putting screws in it doesn't make much sense to me. The same goes for nails and once the glue sets nails wouldn't matter. I will be relying on the glue bond to hold the bottom on to the till.

the original toolbox banding
One of these is long enough to give up two cross braces for the bottom.

two braces done
I ripped the bearers for the two top tills/trays and took a break until after lunch.

first batter after lunch
I made the bottom slightly over sized and here I'm flushing the last side.

one thing I didn't want to see
Birch ply usually doesn't have voids like this nor those ugly biscuit shaped plugs.  This void is about a 3/8" deep and I'll have to fill with something. Because of where it is I'm leaning towards filling it with epoxy and filler.

change 2 to the bottom
Actually I made more than 2 changes to the bottom. The first one was to add a third brace to the bottom. After I ripped the banding to the width for the first two, the piece left over I used to put in the middle.

The second change was gluing the braces down. At first I was going to glue and screw them and changed that to just screwing them. My reasoning was it would easier to replace any one of them if needed. On change 3 I went back to glue and screwing them due to the increased strength. Replacing them is still doable but it will involve some chisel and planing I'm sure.

made the screw holes before gluing the braces on
 I glued and pressed the braces in place and let them set for a few minutes before putting in the screws.

5 screws per brace, all of them clocked
the braces
The braces stiffened up the bottom quite a bit. I have a warm and fuzzy about the strength of this holding up to a load of tools now.

Miles's Stanley 71 box
 I got this positioned so the box is below the center and right side brace. It's time to see if the braces will hit it.

braces are fine
If I measured them correctly, the extend past the bearers on the ends about 3/8" down into the interior of the toolbox. I don't see this small protrusion causing any hiccups down the road.

figuring the size of the tills
Neither till is going to be the size I want them. The marking gauges need almost 3" of height and making a till that size eats up 71% of the allotted space. I compromised and made the bottom till the larger space and the two top ones smaller.

stock for the two tills
I briefly entertained making 3 tills. One would be for measuring stuff, ie rulers, tapes etc, a 2nd one for miscellaneous crappola, and a third one for chisels. That idea frizzled out real quick. The measuring till needs to be 13" so I can fit the 12" steel ruler in it. That left roughly 10" for two more tills. I decided to go with 2 rather than one large and two smaller ones.

roughly 3/8" above the till
That space above the big till isn't going to be wasted. I plan on using that by extending the top tills to occupy it.

till side and bottom
Making sure that I am below the top of the toolbox. If I went with 1/8" plywood for the bottoms of the top tills I would have more breathing room here. I'm using 1/4" plywood for strength and that gives me a wee bit less than 1/8" of space here.

single tail tills
I recently saw using blue tape to hold the stock as a tip (Saw Mill Creek ?) and I like it. The tape kept the stock from shifting as I tightened the vise on it.

kept them together
I kept the stock taped and sawed for the half pin. This didn't work that well on a couple of these. The front ones came out ok but on some of the back ones I sawed off the line. On the ones that I did that I on, all errant saw cuts were on the waste side.

chopped the pins
I did these one till at a time. I laid them all out the same but I didn't want to chance mixing the parts up.

Just when you think you have mastered something, you do this. These are the loosest fitting dovetails I've done in a very long time. Eight corners -1 done snug, 1 done kind of snug, 4 loose, and the last two looser. These two I will have to shim after they have set up.

nutso glue up
Because of the loose fit of the dovetails I couldn't glue it and set it aside. I tried clamping it without the squares and got nowhere with that. I couldn't clamp the till square so I resorted to this. This is the larger of the two tills and I was able to get a square on the four corners. I'm hoping that this works and I'll know if there is any joy in Mudville tomorrow.

the smaller till
These dovetails were a bit better fitting but still not good enough to glue and set aside. I could only get two squares for this one.

accidental woodworker

How much does a ten pin bowling pin weigh?
answer - 3 pounds 6 ounces

till fitted......

Sat, 09/16/2017 - 1:04am
The last two days have seen a return of some humidity. Today was a little higher than yesterday was. I know this because tonight I sweated up a storm and last night I didn't. We are entering my second favorite part of the year. Nice crisp days and cool nights are coming soon. This part of the year everything is getting ready to go to sleep until my absolute favorite season, spring returns. I bitch about the changing seasons but I know I would miss them if I moved to Hawaii or some other place like that.

The fitting of the till went off without any hiccups in spite of me soaking my T-shirt. I'm regretting now that I didn't stop and get the 1/4" birch plywood for the bottom. I could have glued it on tonight and moved on to making the moving tills to put into it. I'll get the plywood first thing in the AM. What kind of sucks is I have three 4' x 4' pieces of underlayment plywood. But this stuff isn't meant to be used for drawer/box bottoms. They will do for cabinet backs but not for my till bottom.

solid wood bottom
There are too many pieces to this. I am not a fan of multiple boards for a bottom or for any other kind of glued up 'panel'. One way to do this is to use three equal width boards and ship lap them to form the bottom. The bottom is roughly 12" so I would have to account for some expansion. Since the till is a tight fit, I don't have the wiggle room to allow a solid wood bottom.

tantalizing close
The 3 small pieces on the right are all about an inch too narrow. In spite of the expansion hiccup, I tried to get this to work. I put the wide boards on each long side and the smaller piece in the middle. Without the rabbets for the ship laps, it was a 1/2" too short. Plywood wins because I don't have to allow for expansion/contraction.

idea #1
This was the forerunner for me but now that I can see it, I'm not liking it as much. Use your imagination and see plywood filling the whole bottom. The piece of pine is 1/2" thick and 3/4" wide. The idea was to 1/2 lap a notch into the two sides. Then glue and screw it to the plywood bottom. That would split the bottom span in half and make it better able to handle the load of tools in it. What I don't like about it is division it makes. Doing this divides the bottom of the till into two 12" x 12" plats of real estate.

idea #2
Again you'll have to use your imagination to see the plywood covering the bottom. The braces will be a 1/2" thick and about 3/4" wide. I will glue these to the plywood and screw them to it from the inside. I think breaking up the bottom into thirds will be stronger than halving it. These strong backs will project only a little way into the toolbox. These will only stick past the bearers on the ends by a 1/4" or so. I don't think it will be a problem with the contents. And the two pieces will allow the till to be set down on the workbench without rocking. This is the way I'm going to further support the bottom.

cleaning the long sides
I clamped this plywood between the dogs and clamped the opposite end with a couple of clamps. I lightly planed the long edge and spent more time flushing and cleaning the tails/pins.

too tight
I only made one planing run on the two long sides only. I did one more planing run taking light shavings and checked it again.

it fits
I was surprised to see that this fit the length. The left side (front to back) is a little too snug for me but the length dropped in squarely inbetween the bearers.

new piece of plywood
I took the minimal amount off I could. I flushed and cleaned the tails/pins and took just a few shavings between them. This already fits in the bearers so I didn't have to plane to fit it, just clean it up.

left side of the toolbox
This side is still snug and I don't want to plane anymore off of the till. I am going to do all the remaining fitting and planing on the toolbox until I get the fit I like. I started by planing this end on both sides.

used my grandson's #3
I was too lazy to stop and sharpen the iron in my #3 so I used Miles. He said it was ok as long as I sharpened it again.

labeled the bottom
I labeled this so as I planed the box I would be checking the fit with the same orientation of the till. I got a slip in and drop in fit that I was happy with. I turned the till 180 and the fit was snug again. So I will be able to drop the till into the box without checking to see if I'm putting it in the 'right' way, I kept on planing.

I planed both sides of the long sides of the toolbox
I just planed down to the level of the bearers. I went end to end but concentrated the bulk of the shavings on the left side ends.

got it fitted
I got a slip, drop in fit no matter which I put the till in. I switched it 180 the long way and I also tried with the bottom (which I marked) facing up. I'm done with the till and I'm happy with the fit. The plywood bottom isn't going to change the fit.

I opened and closed the lid a whole bunch of times. Some fast and some slow, opening and closing it by holding the lid in different spots. The chain fell into the space and didn't interfere with the lid  closing not even once. I also dropped the lid and the chain still fell into the space. I didn't lose too much in the length doing this, maybe an inch all together.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
The size of an egg tells you the minimum required net weight per dozen eggs. It does not refer to the dimensions of an egg or how big it looks. How much does a dozen large eggs weigh?
answer - 24 ounces

till glued up.....

Fri, 09/15/2017 - 1:22am
Gluing up used to fill me with a lot of apprehension but now it is a lot easier. Most of the easier feeling comes from making better fitting joints. I know I am getting better there because I don't have use clamps to squeeze joints into submission anymore. It's a good feeling when a joints fit nicely and tonight's glue up gave me a warm and fuzzy again.

I am making one big till that won't slide even a frog hair. In that big till I am thinking of putting two sliding tills. These will both be about 1/3 the size of the big one. I will experiment with this build as it is virgin territory for me. I can't do anything wrong because it is for my grandson and it will be his first exposure to it.

my two dovetail saws
The Lie Nielsen is my go to dovetail saw that I use for 99.9% of the dovetails I do. The saw above it is one I had Matt Cianci change from a crosscut to a rip pattern. I think it ended up around 18 TPI. I use this for rip cuts and dovetails in stock below a 1/2" thick.

not a good choice
I used this on sawing the tails and that was ok. I really didn't feel it was better using this over the LN. I had a hard time sawing the pins with it and I only did one end before I finished the other 3 with the LN saw.  When push comes to shove, I didn't think the 3/8" thick till stock needed a different saw other than the LN.

Another point I point I thought about was the size of the plate. Most dovetail saws I see have much smaller plates. This was originally a crosscut tenon saw I got in my late 20's that sat around unloved. Turning it into a dovetail saw to use on small stock didn't up it getting more love. Maybe I'll try it to saw a tenon with it which I've not done yet.

I've read that the thinner the stock, one should use a smaller saw with finer teeth. What I found is that I can at least saw dovetails with stock down to 3/8" thick with the LN saw. These aren't the thinnest dovetails I've done neither. That honor goes to a 1/4" thick box that I sawed the dovetails with a Zona saw. Another point I learned is that dovetails are dovetails and the size of them doesn't matter. You still do them all the same way regardless of the size.

dry looks good
I don't have any 1/4" birch plywood for the bottom. I have some 1/4" underlayment plywood but that looks ugly. Not to mention that I don't think it would be as stiff or strong as 1/4" plywood.  Taking a look at the size of this I'm thinking of putting a center brace in it at the mid point on the long sides.

I got two choices on that. The first is to put it in the interior or apply it to the plywood bottom. If I put it on the bottom I'll have to put at least two so the till won't rock when it is taken out. If it is in the interior it will divide the big till in two. I'm not fond of either choice but I'm not liking the size of that bottom being unsupported further somehow.

two hairs too long
This was hard to decide on. Making it short and have a loose, sloppy fit or making it too long and plane it to fit. I went with too long and I'll plane it. I'll have to be careful because this stock is only 3/8" thick so I don't have a lot of meat to play with.

overshot this
I am not looking forward to planing this and I missed making this a wee bit closer fitting. I did it the same way I overshot the long sides.  It looks like I'll have to find a way to support these long sides so I can plane it.

glued up with hide glue
My dovetails came together good and I didn't need to clamp it.

this was a PITA
I squared it up and it would go out of square. I had to clamp the recalcitrant corner with a square to keep it moving. It will probably be saturday before I get the bottom on this. I don't like stopping at Lowes on the way home during the week. Especially so now that school is open and the buses are on the road again.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
In target archery, what is the bull's eye worth?
answer - 10 points

started the till.......

Thu, 09/14/2017 - 1:18am
My till is going to be a lift out one. It will be one large and it will have one or maybe two sliding tills in it. I'm not crazy about sliding tills back and forth to get access what is underneath them. I don't have a lot of experience with them in toolboxes but I do use them in drawers. I like putting stuff I use most of the time in the sliding till and stuff I seldom use in the bottom of the drawer. That seems to work for me and I'm going to try it on the toolbox.

the till stock
This has been stickered for a day and it is still straight. The far right one has a teeny bit of cup but it shouldn't interfere with the dovetailing to come.

Stanley 71 box done
I've already snapped the outside glamour shot. Tonight is the inside of the box glamour shot. I've picked the box up several different ways and there is definitely a weight tilt on the far side. When I picked it up I adjusted for the weight bias without any problems. The box having no handles and being too big to pick up with one hand helps too. This box has to be picked up with two hands.

it fits beneath the bearer for the till.
I'm rethinking stowing the 71 box in the toolbox. It's contents are protected and don't need to be further protected in the toolbox. It also eats up a lot of real estate which I hadn't thought of before making it. I want to get Miles a plow plane too and that will need a box. Another box will lead to a loss of more toolbox real estate. These might get stowed on top of the toolbox once it has it's full compliment of tools.

squared one end of the till pieces
Once I squared one end I set one long side and short in the box and knifed the length.

squared the other end
 I wish that I could do the width of multiple pieces the same as easily as I can to length. Practice, practice, practice, is the only thing that is going to do it for me there.

almost done
I got the tails done and I marked out the pins. I had expected to get this done tonight but there isn't any rush on it. Tomorrow I'll saw and chop the pins and maybe get it glued up.

And that is the way it was, Wednesday, September 13, 2017.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
45 rpm vinyl records when first made in 1949 and came in various colors. What did the color green mean?
answer - that it was a country record - Eddie Arnold had the first song on the first 45 made by RCA

done tomorrow......

Wed, 09/13/2017 - 1:11am
I had a senior moment tonight that I corrected. Having that episode (again) gave me tonight's blog title. The 71 box will done tomorrow . Fini, complete, over, 100% done, nothing more to do, time to let the oohs and aahs commence. My final glamour shot tomorrow will be anticlimactic because I already posted one.

not the title senior moment
I almost made another set of these for nothing. After I took some medicine that corrected my anal ocular inversion, I saw that I could just turn it.  The one I have in my hand is the original way I was putting them in. Turning them gives me a much wider bearing surface for the till bottom to seat on.

it's a snug fit side to side
top of the scrap is the bottom of the bearer
I set the bearer on top of this and screwed them into the sides. This ensures both bearers are at the same height.

getting the length of till
I made the mark across both sticks at the front and I'm checking it at the back to see if it there is any difference. The mark lined up exactly which means my toolbox sides are the same length.

sawing the till parts to rough length
long side is about 3/16 too long
the same with the ends
I had bought 6 boards and I picked the 3 straightest ones I for this till. I am going to sticker these until tomorrow and I'll start the dovetailing it then.

choices for the bottom
I can use 1/4" birch or 1/8" plywood. My preference is to use 1/8" over the 1/4". But the 1/8" will be the wanna be and 1/4" will be used. I don't think the 1/8" would be strong enough. It's too big of a bottom span for it.

first handle idea
As I was looking at this pic I thought of something else. I made the space for the chain to fall in but maybe I can put this on the other side and thread a rope handle through it?

the blog title senior moment
I was fixated on getting my hardware for this and spaced out that I have 80 or more of these. I could have been done with this yesterday.

almost bottomed out
I drilled a hole and threaded it with my homemade tap. With the fence, washer, and the holder thickness, the screw won't bottom out.

cutting it down
I don't need to spend ten minutes screwing this all the way in or out.  I cut it to a 1/2" long under the head.
enough room to screw this in/out with my ham hock fingers
I would need a stubby
If I had used one of the screws coming from McMaster-Carr I would have had to use a screwdriver. I don't have the strength in my fingers to grasp the head of the screw and take it out or in. Not to mention that I would have to search for a stubby screwdriver that I know I don't have.

glued with hide glue - this will be done tomorrow
the man in brown came
As I was writing this blog he came and dropped off my goodies from McMaster. Two 10-24 screws from Lowes, with tax are over $2. For $5 and change I got a hundred and I probably have a lifetime supply of them. Miles too most likely.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the birthday flower for November?
answer - chrysanthemum

it's a type 10 to 11......

Tue, 09/12/2017 - 1:14am
Thanx to Bob D I was able to type my 71. And just like trying to type a bench plane, there is a bit slop with typing the 71.  It could be the type where a certain feature first showed up but it also has some of the later ones. I've found that the best I can do is to narrow it down to two or maybe three types. The 71 is that way. It has one feature that first appeared with the type 10 and it matches up too with the type 11.

I like typing a Stanley tool. It's cool to see how it progressed from initial production to what you are holding in your hands now. The progression of the 71 was interesting. The special attachment didn't show up for over 10 years.

been a day it should have set up
won't fit where I want it
This is one downside to making a small tight box. I could notch out for the thumb screw but I don't want to do that. That would make it even tighter getting the 71 out and putting it back.  Another option would be to the iron in the bullnose position. That would reverse the collar and thumbscrew 180°. That would also make it a PITA to use when I have to switch it before I can make shavings.

it barely fits here
The open throat front edge is separated from the holder by two atoms. It's a tight fit. I can take the router out but it's a bit dicey getting it back in. It is easier to slightly tilt it to drop it in but with the holders there, I can't do that. I have put up against the holder and drop it straight down. Not that convenient and awkward.

Another problem is the weight is now all concentrated on this side of the box. Not a deal killer but there isn't much I can do about it.

the lid clears the irons
still no screws for the fence
I could put the fence storage on the other side but I don't think it will do much to counter balance the other side. Since I don't have the screws this isn't set in concrete yet.

got a 16th now
I planed a little off of each side of the holder. There is enough room to put the router back in by tilting it.

the till
The #6 is the tallest tool I can think of that will be in the bottom of the toolbox. This one big till will get two more sliding tills that will fit inside of it. That will all come later.

bearer on the chain side
I saw a toolbox build that dealt with this chain in what I thought was a clever way. I don't like having the chain fall into the till and his solution fixes that. I don't remember who did this but if I do I'll give him credit and post the link.

the till side
If the till side has a space between it and the chain, the chain will naturally fall into it and not the till.

this looks to be enough room
The chain fell straight down into the space. Now I just have to figure out how to make the space.

grecian ovolo on the bottom, the top one I don't the name of it
I think using these on the interior would be lost not to mention not being readily visible.

better choice for the bearer
As of now I'm thinking of only putting bearers on the two short sides to hold the till.  I want to avoid having them as a catch point on the long sides. If I see the till sagging I can revisit this and put a short bearer in the middle on both long sides.

side bearers
The one with the rabbet will go against the side with the chain and give me the space for it.

this should work
The size of the rabbet seems adequate - it's 3/8" square with a 3/8" space on the top.

change one
Decided to use a rabbeted bearer on both sides. There isn't enough space to get my fingers between the till ends and the sides but it'll help some if I put handles on the inside of the till.  The what and how of the handles will take some time to generate a few ideas on. I am going to do change two on the bearers also.  I will make the rabbet bottom 3/4" inch with a 3/8" space for the chain. I don't like the look of the 3/8" square rabbet as it looks to be too small for the till to rest on. I'll make the new bearers tomorrow and start on the till.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
On the Universal Product Code (bar code), what is signified by the digits 2 to 6?
answer -  the Product's manufacturer as assigned by the Uniform Code Council

took it easy.....

Mon, 09/11/2017 - 4:16am
The gash I gave myself yesterday is healing ok. The steri-strips kept the wound closed while I slept and when I awoke this morning there were only two small spots of blood on the bandage. I'll change them after I shower tonight because I doubt steri-strips can survive a shower.

I didn't get much done in the shop today but I did have a late day burst working on the 71 box. I figured out how to stow the three irons. I am still waiting on the screws to come in for the fence so that will hold up being 100% done with the box. Maybe I'll get them tomorrow.

made a change with the banding
This plain square bottom banding is history.

this will replace it
I have enough stock left over to make another set to wrap the box.

checking the two pieces
The stock I had wasn't long enough to make all 3 pieces of the banding needed. I had to make it in two and I'm planing the second one until it feels the same as the other one.

4 1/2 feet of molding shavings
yikes! the left hand molding came out like crap
right end molding (bottom) came out ok
4 1/2 isn't wide enough to use on the jig going R or L
#8 fits
This did work but the left of the jig was a bit high the plane iron was stopping on it. I didn't want to try to fix that now and set it aside.

surprisingly, this worked very well
I had to take one more trimming run
I should have left myself a bit more wiggle room on this. I barely sawed this to rough  length long enough. Trimming the fuzz from the saw cut ate up past my wiggle room.

this should be more than enough wiggle room
I ripped out another piece and molded the edge again.

right corner dialed in to set the short side
I usually do my molding starting with a short side and working around till I come back to it. This time I set the two short ones and I'll trim and fit the long one to fit inbetween them.

first rough cut and check
sneaking up on the fit
an hour later
I am still a wee bit long and some of it I can adjust with the side one.

I'm happy with this fit
It is not perfect but close enough. I'll be painting this and sandpaper, putty, and a dark color will hide a lot of sins.

off the saw
Initially I was a bit off at the heel but towards the end I was dead nuts according to Mr Starrett.

how I snuck up on the fit
From the first rough cut on the left to the last one on the right. I erred very cautiously on the waste side. I didn't have any more stock to make another molding so did the fitting in turtle mode.

how I kept my placement of the molding
It started with putting 3 nails in the back of the molding.

clipped them off close
box lid lightly clapped shut
I put the spacer on the top, aligned it left and right, and pressed into the box.

two sides done
I screwed the molding to the box from the inside, no glue.

one more piece and this will be done
This molding looks a 100% better than the plain square molding there.

the 71 box
This is where the burst came in. It took me all morning and a couple of hours into the afternoon just to do the banding. I watched a few You Tube videos on the JFK assassination and over 50 years later the controversy surrounding his death still won't die. I don't believe Oswald did it and the researchers are finding more and more anomalies and holes with the Warren Commission report every time new documents are freed up  I was in the 6th grade just getting ready to go home when the news about his death was announced on the PA system.

got an idea for stowing the irons
nailed the miters
I glued the miters and further help keep them together, I nailed them too. Tomorrow I'll plane the corners flush and sand the beads. I'll putty the holes when I paint the box.

I screwed this down rather then glue it
two of the screws broke off
I can hide these two
These are the two holes with the broken screws and I can hide the both of them with storage doo-dads. I tried to get them out but both of them broke off below the surface of the bottom plywood.

first screw hole hidden

using hide glue for this in case I need to reverse or repair it
my iron storage idea
I had wanted to stow the irons this way since the beginning but I couldn't figure out how. The shafts on the irons are 3/8" square with the irons angled kitty corner rather then being 90° on a flat face. The diagonal facing iron was depriving my only two brain cells of oxygen and I was at a lost for a solution. I was stuck on working around the diagonal and I didn't need to be. I needed a square 3/8" hole and nothing more than that.

almost done
This worked good for me. The irons pivot out at an angle rather then being flat up against the wall of the box. This will allow me to grab an iron and take it out easily. I made the grooves a few frog hairs wider than 3/8".

Tomorrow I will plane and clean this up. I think I might have enough room on the right to put the fence there. If I don't I will make something else to hold the fence. I glued this and set aside to set up.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
The US $500 bill was discontinued in 1969 but they are still legal tender. Whose picture was on it?
answer - President William McKinley

a bloody saturday.......

Sun, 09/10/2017 - 2:49am
I'm not talking british bloody here but the actual red liquid stuff that is supposed to stay inside the body. I put a boo-boo on both forearms today. One is a minor scratch and the other was deep gash and wouldn't stop bleeding. Every time I got it stopped and I starting working again, it would start flowing. Very annoying but after a couple of hours I finally got it stopped for good. Dealing with this put a dent in my shop time but at least I didn't have to make an ER run. Going to the emergency room would have curtailed working for most of the day.

Ohio tool catalog
The molding plane iron that I am sharpening now is for a #64 Ohio tool molding plane. According to the catalog it is a grecian ovolo with a fillet. (The top profile on the right)  I've been looking for an Ohio Tool catalog for a while with no luck. Josh at Hyperkitten usually has a selection of catalogs for sale but so far nothing from Ohio Tool.

stock to complete the dust seal
When I looked at Paul Sellers's video on the tool box build he had another piece of stock under the lid. He said it strengthened the box and made a dust seal. I can see the strengthen part but not the latter. The lid drops down over the box on 3 sides so that is a dust seal too.

I chamfered the overhang
leaves a gap I don't like
The chamfer isn't that large and I have two choices with making it go away. One is to saw off the side and the front pieces and make a new one. Two, plane the chamfer off.

the first cut on my left forearm
This isn't more than a scratch and I ignored it.

removed the back hinge rail
I thought I would replace this but I changed my mind and put it back on. The two ends are beveled but it is at the back and won't interfere with the lid opening or closing once I get the bottom half of the dust seal installed.

this is not a scratch
 Initially I got the blood flow stemmed but being stupid, I kept on working. And it would open up and start to bleed again. This is where my wife spent a lot of money to get some wound closing steri-strips along with a plethora of other bandage crappola. I think chinese for lunch helped with stopping the blood too. Maybe chow mien has a natural clotting effect.

the culprit
You would think that I would have learned something on the first scratch caused by this iron.  Like maybe take it out of the holder and put on the bench. Hmm, that made sense so that is why I mind farted that idea and just swore at it the first time. By the way, both were caused by me walking by it.
After I opened the second nice sized wound, I did take my head out of my arse and put it on the bench.

a couple of hours later
This is a Stanley 102 which I use for shit jobs like this. I did the first run around the lid just to remove the paint.

planed the inside too
The lid was a bit snug as it closes on the box. I used my bullnose plane and made a few runs on the inside of the lid.

reversed myself
I stopped playing with the toolbox and finished sharpening the iron that wounded me. There are no spring lines on the toe and I wasn't sure of how to plane this profile. I measured the plane width and nailed a scrap to run the plane against. It worked and I was able to plane the profile but I sensed that this isn't the correct way to do this.

ledge, hook, thing-a-ma-bob, what is this called
I hooked this on the edge of another piece of stock and planed away. I started with the plane tilted slightly upright and I slowly moved it inboard and down as I planed until it stopped making shavings. This way felt like it was the way to do it.

second profile done

profiles match up perfectly
 I will save these and they will be definitely used for something. I like this profile a lot. This is the perfect size to use as a band molding on a top that overhangs something.

back to the box
I got the front mitered to length. The sides are oversized and will be trimmed to size after the front is on.

my spacer
I saved this thin piece of pine and I'm going to use it as spacer between the top and bottom parts of the dust seal. I stopped here because I couldn't think of a way to hold the bottom piece's position while I screwed it from the inside. I don't want any nails or screws on the outside to show so I'll have to think of way to clamp it or something.

3/8" stock for the tills
The 5/16" resawn stock is history. I don't have the same skill set for resawing that Paul Sellers does. I hope to have it but for now I don't. I'll use 3/8" stock which I think is a better choice for a youngster.

it's working
It isn't pretty looking but I finally stopped bleeding. It's been a few hours and it is holding up.

UPS on a saturday
I didn't know that UPS did saturday deliveries. I didn't ask for one and this was free S/H from Lee Valley too.  When I had checked this online, it was scheduled for monday.

Lee Valley free shipping until the 11th
Got a brush and replacement irons for the 71.

1/4" and 1/8" irons
the Lee Valley irons are about a 1/2" longer
Lee Valley says in the catalog that these will fit the Stanley 71 and 71 1/2. You have to turn the thumb wheel screw around to do that.

tried two more molders
One of these is a 1/8" beader and the other one I don't have any idea what it is called. It looks like an astragal or beader depending upon how quickly you look at it. I had sharpened the iron and glued the boxing back in and forgot about it. I had no problems planing either of these profiles.

a flat, a bead, and a fillet
another grecian ovolo (bottom)
This is a dead on match for the first ovolo I did except for the fillet. This one has a flat where the fillet is on the other one.

the two ovolos
The sole profile on the non fillet ovolo doesn't look as deep as the fillet one but the profiles match up pretty good. This plane has no maker stamp and has the number 5 stamped on it besides a few different owners.

the two ovolo plane soles
last one
This is the one plane I wanted out of the 8 I won on the auction. This iron I will have to sharpen and hone. I'm finding that molding plane irons don't have to be anal retentive sharp like a bench plane iron in order to plane profiles. This iron is dull and rusty but yet it planed a good profile. It is clean and well defined end to end.

I may not be able to resaw worth a bucket of spit, but using molding planes is picking up for me. I tried five of them today and I went 5 for 5. The downside to that is I'm running out of room to stow them. My plane till is getting awfully crowded and making another one may get promoted to the A list.

Stanley 71 depth shoe
I found what I'm calling the depth shoe for the 71 in my Stanley catalogs. Some call it a special attachment and others call it an extra attachment. The cost of it in the Sweetheart catalog no. 120 was 50 cents. Still in the dark as to what it's intended purpose is.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the largest single drop waterfall in the US?
answer -  the Ribbon Waterfall in Yosemite National Park

took a sick day.......

Sat, 09/09/2017 - 12:55am
I wasn't sick in the sense that I was ill but rather I had a couple of medical appointments today. I had to give blood at 0700 and the doctor appointment was at 1130.  Rather than go to work late and then leave again before lunchtime, I took the whole day off. I didn't get a lot of time in the shop but I did almost complete the 71 box.  Some time in the shop is better than no time in the shop.

changed my mind on this
I am going to use this to hold the depth rod and the shoe rather then stowing it on the router itself. If I don't need to use it I'll have to take it off the router and put in the box. I'll survive this plain Jane block to hold it somehow. I looked at all of my Stanley catalogs and none list spare parts for the 71. All the catalogs had at least the 71 but no write up on the parts. I guessing this shoe is used for a wide dado or tenon work.

1/8" plywood bottom
This is one of two boxes I started a few weeks ago. This will get a 1/8" plywood bottom and be done. No lid and no finish.

forgot to flush the bottom and check it for twist first
I glued this up and set it aside to set up.

6 coats
This will be done by the end of saturday for sure. I checked the lid and it slides in and out a bit stiffly. I think once the shellacing is done a little wax on the rabbets will make it slide in/out easily.

still no ideas on storage for these
I found a blurb in one catalog that stated this was a new and improved smoother. I don't know what was new or improved with it. This is the same view that is in the catalog. Maybe it has to do with the iron being screwed on to the shaft?

I don't know what I'll use this for because I think I finally might have enough boxes.

practice till stock
I watched a couple of episodes of Paul Seller's video on making a tool box. He made the tills for it 5/16" thick and he got it by resawing 3/4" stock. It's been a while since I last tried to resaw so I'll practice first on this short piece.

not a good start
This is after I had flipped it twice to saw on the opposite side.

the side I started first
This side doesn't look too bad but the side I can't see I went OTL (out to lunch) on.

this is crappola
I definitely need to practice more and I need to do a lot more than I'm doing now. This is not like not riding a bike for a long time and then riding it again.

I might be able to salvage the left one
It won't be 5/16" thick but I think a 1/4" is doable. I will save it and use it for something else.

not much room left
I am going to get a #6 for Miles (this is my #6). He will be rather young then and a #7 would be too big for him to master. I think the #6 is pushing that envelope a bit but he'll need something in the jointer range to start with.

I like this better
He is only getting two panel saws, one rip and one crosscut. I'm still looking to add a carcass and dovetail saw but I haven't found anything I like yet. Translation - it is looking to be cheaper to buy LN saws rather then old ones.

some of the tools for the till(s)
I'm thinking of putting in two tills. One that will be the same as the interior opening of the toolbox and a second one on top of that half the size.

sometimes you get lucky
I found this missing chip stuck to the underside of the lid. I super glued it back on.

derusting a molding plane iron
Doing the derusting with this 150 sanding stick is way easier than using a folded piece of a sandpaper that I usually use.

loose piece of boxing
I had two loose pieces but it looks like the other one got acclimated to the shop and it isn't loose anymore.

warming up the hide glue
The poly is keeping the hide glue in the water until it warms up.

got a hump on the back
back is flat now
I was going to quit here but I had to do one more thing.

coarse sharpening done
This is an interesting looking profile and I am very curious about how it will look. The iron matches the profile of the molding plane pretty good. I think once I get this honed I should be able to make a molding with it. From the wear on the plane sole it looks like plane was used a lot.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who is the only US President to have a national park named for him?
answer - Theodore Roosevelt

Stanley 71 screw sizes update........

Fri, 09/08/2017 - 10:47am
I was looking at my blog post for today and I saw that I forgot to add the screw sizes. Yikes! This blog post's main purpose was to publish the sizes and I zoned that right out.

all checked out
There are six screws on this 71 but I don't know it's history or how to type it. In addition to the six screws there is one round thumb wheel screw (not sure what to call this). It is the one that advances and retracts the iron.

small flat head screw
This screw is a 12-24 and is a 1/4" long measured under the head. I don't know what the angle is and I'm guessing it's the standard 82°?

depth shoe screw
This gizmo still has me scratching the bald spot. I'll have to look it up in my Stanley catalogs and see if anything is written in there about it. This screw is a bit mangled on the threads at the top but it doesn't matter here as those threads aren't even close to being used. This screw is a 1/4-24. I couldn't double check this in my thread checkers because none of them have this size. But I did match up the threads with the #24 on the screw pitch gauge.

The fence screw I did get in today's blog post. It's a 10-24 x 3/8" and I think it is too short. I ordered some 10-24 x 1/2" & 3/4" screws, along with #10 washers, hex nuts, and wing nuts. I'll get them next week.

nickel plated
The nickel plating goes with the rest of the plane. The size of this is 12-20 but I couldn't check it in any of my thread checkers as none have this size. The screw pitch gauge for #20 lines up perfectly with it. I also tired some of my spare studs for knobs and they all fit and I know those are 12-20 threaded.

these are the same size
They are the same size but different in one aspect. The screw for the iron clamp has a conical shaped end. That is so it will mate and fit in the vee. The one for securing the depth rod is flat on the end. Both of these are a 1/4-28. I do have this size on a thread checker and I also checked the thread size with the screw pitch gauge for #28. Both were a match.

I would bet the ranch that these screws and the one on the depth shoe would have been all the same size.

 this one is hard to measure
the stud is a 1/4-28 so the thumb wheel is the same size
As soon as I can figure out the vintage of my 71 I'll post it.

accidental woodworker

Stanley 71 screw sizes.......

Fri, 09/08/2017 - 1:17am
My grandson's name is Miles. I've been spelling it Myles and my wife saw that and didn't tell me. I found the correct spelling when I checked his picture book for his middle name. I needed that because I'm putting his full name on his Stanley 71 box. I switched from his initials to his full name on the bottom of the box. A full name will be better than initials when it comes to settling disputes 50 or 100 years from now.

stud for a bench plane tote
The stud doesn't fit in any of the four small holes. The two large ones aren't threaded and are meant for attaching an auxiliary base to the 71.

I tried a few more just to be sure
I checked these threads with a pitch gauge and the #20 wouldn't line up with this. It might have because it was hard to hold the magnifying glass, the stud, and the gauge all at the same time. I didn't feel the gauge fall into the threads neither.

got my new fence screw
The 20 pitch doesn't fit this screw. I checked this one upstairs under the stationary magnifying glass that doubles as my desk lamp.

it fits in all four fence holes
The hole right next to the screw is the one that had a different screw when I got it. I tossed it because I knew it wasn't even close to being a OEM replacement screw.

it fits and holds the fence securely
screw appears to be short (front hole on the left)
The screw doesn't even make it halfway into the base. The screw I got is 3/8" long under the head and the thickness of the fence, washer, and the base is 3/4" strong. I am going to get some 1/2" or 5/8" long screws to replace this one.

it's a 10-24 screw
10-24 insert
This insert is too long for the box and I don't have any 10-24 nuts. So using either of them to attach the fence in the box is toast.

no problems threading the wood with the screw
I drilled an 11/64 hole, lightly chamfered the top, and screwed it home.

not working
 With the washer installed, the screw isn't long enough to bite into the threads. Without the washer I can screw it down and secure the fence.

making a tap
I have a lot of 10-24 thumbscrews and made one into a tap. I starting by filing a vee at the end of it. I next filed the bottom into a conical shape and called it done. I tried it on a thinner piece of wood ( I didn't want to risk the screw I had anymore). I got the same results - red light with a washer and a green light without it. The threaded hole on this one was a bit tighter too.

stowing the fence screw here for now

cleaned up and made the chamfer a bit wider with a chisel
chiseled most of the pencil line off
calling the box done and ready to shellac
forgot to saw a bevel on the front
I marked these and sawed them off with a Zona saw.

this is where I found out I had been misspelling his name
My Wife said this is the same name as her grandfather, with an 'i'. I'm not sure if that is why Amanda chose this name though.

practice piece
Looks like a regular dovetail from this vantage point. The bottom saw cut for the tail shouldn't be there.

from this side too
the bottom has no half pin and it is mitered
I glued this one together so I can't take it apart.

I had made a second one I didn't glue
interesting joint
As long as the groove for the bottom lands in the miter, you don't have to worry about the groove showing. I definitely would need this as a model if I were to make another one.

the first half blinds I ever made
I don't remember which one I did first. I would like to say the left was first and the improved second set is on the right.

a mitered bridle joint
I have a few more practice joints but they fell behind the cabinet. I like these because I have a visual I can compare what I do now with these to see if I improved, regressed, or stayed the same.

shellac comes tomorrow
 I am not sure if the ink in the pen I used is alcohol based so I'll put a coat of poly over it first. Tomorrow I can apply as many coats of shellac as I want without any problems.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
It was held for the first time on this date in 1921. What was it?
answer - the American Beauty Pageant