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|I bought them all|
What surprised me about both sellers, was how clean the screws were. I usually get parts like this all rusty and ratty looking. These are all rust free and shiny. The slots aren't mangled and the screws all have good looking, well defined threads.
|these 3 are all set now|
|everything has set up|
|removed most of the proud with the chisel - I then planed it flush|
|flushed the walnut to the bottom|
|checked my desk stock|
|lightweight but sufficient|
|ugly even if they won't be seen|
|found a lot of 3/4" screws|
|found a piece of poplar long enough|
|sawing 1/2 x 1/2 notches|
|my senior moment|
|I will have to use a wide piece after I fix this|
|I wanted to use walnut here|
|padauk is another choice|
What is a folivore?
answer - an animal that eats leaves
I nixed getting the VA supplied stand up desk version because it won't work for me. It will elevate the monitor and keyboard/mouse up and down but that is it. There is no provision for working on paperwork at the same time at an elevated position. If all I was doing was computer work this would work. But over half of what I do doing the day is dealing with paperwork first and then feeding all that into the scanner and onto the computer.
|oh dark thirty sunday morning|
This will go into the wood pile to be used from something else. For the desk it's use is toast and I'll buy another 2x4 sheet of plywood.
|monitor base frames|
|blurry pic of a proud tenon|
|possible big desk base stock|
|flushed and cleaned up the frames|
|the monitor base top|
|trimming the first two pieces flush|
|not a problem now|
|cutting and fitting the last two walnut strips|
|quick, easy, and I got a clean edge|
|the proposed bracing|
|two pieces of 3/4" plywood|
I went through every single piece of both of these plywood bins and I only found one flat and straight one in each. The one I bought yesterday came from Lowes and I don't remember if I checked it for being flat. I was more interested in getting a nice grain pattern. I got that but a pretzel for a board.
|the top brace details|
|flush fit on the through dado|
|labeled the bottom|
|wee bit off on this side|
|I have a boatload of planes|
|rounding over the corners on the monitor top|
|the 3rd one|
|I had striped walnut|
|removing glue with a carbide scraper|
|marking for the brace|
|now it's square|
|used a story stick|
|kept things from dancing around as I sawed|
|the moment of truth|
|too snug for me|
|the last of the walnut trim pieces|
|left it proud on this side|
|flush on this side|
|proud on this side|
What were the first names used by Sir Arthur Doyle for Sherlock Holmes and Dr Watson?
answer - Sherringford Holmes and Ormond Sacker
That was plan 1, iteration 3b, change 9, upgrade Z21-A, that quickly got flushed down the toilet. The reason why plan #1 didn't work was that I couldn't drill the holes for the new screws because the jamb for the screen door was in the way. And the door was drooping so I couldn't line up the holes in the hinge with the ones in the door.
|size of the screw in the hinges|
The one thing I didn't want to do was take the door down. It is an old, solid wood door and it weighs as much as battleship. I know this because I had to take the door off the hinges. I also blew out the lower hinge on the jamb. So I had to fix those screw holes along with the ones on the top of the door.
From start to finish this adventure took me over 3 hours and I'm still not done. I'll be replacing the door and the jamb later on this summer. Part of the problem with blowing out the bottom hinge was due to rot. The door has been sagging for years, and I've putting band-aids on it for years, and now I have run out of them. The rot at the bottom of the door jamb is only going to get worse and contribute more to the door sagging. The rot is on the lock set side of the jamb but the hinge looked like it had some too.
|brought a problem home|
|I'm two lines off|
|had to check it to make sure|
The monitor base will be 13" up from the desk. The monitor will adjust upwards another 6". Between the two of them I can dial in a height where I can look straight into the monitor without bobbing my head.
|all the joints are trimmed, dry fitted, and ready to glue up|
|glued up and cooking|
|the main desk|
|I won't be using this|
|hiding the plies|
|2nd piece glued on|
|new ebonizing method|
|distilled water first|
|about 1/2 of a 1/4 cup|
|lots of breathing holes|
I took a break here and did my second non workshop wood related chore. I found some pruners and filed them sharp and went outside in the rain. I spent the next hour pruning my 3 lilac bushes. I removed all the dead wood and last years blooms that didn't fall off. I'll have to make another trip tomorrow with the big ass pruners to get a few crossed branches that are rubbing against each other.
After I came back in I was going to work on the big desk but that didn't happen. When I looked at it on the bench I saw that it was noticeably bowed. Bowed to the point of being useless to use as the desk. I clamped it down to bench and we'll see tomorrow if there is any joy in Mudville.
What is the width of the train tracks in America based on?
answer - the width of ancient Roman cart tracks, 4 feet 8 1/2"
|going with the pencil lines|
|rough bandsaw work done|
|planing it smooth and square|
|first foot done|
|I got lucky|
With the feet done, I can make up the iron part of the ebony solution. That will take a few days to cook and in the interim I can finish up the rest of the bookshelf.
|straightedge isn't touching the opposite corners|
|it's dragging on these two corners|
|my sighting table|
|dealing with a defect|
|#120 spin wheels|
|my threads have better definition and aren't worn|
|swapped them out|
I tried both wheels in their respective lever caps and I still didn't get any stripping action. Both locked down on the iron without any problems. I swapped them out and got the same results. I couldn't get either one to 'strip' out.
|Matt's plane in action|
|5 tries and 5 different shavings|
|finally got it to 'strip'|
I'll keep an eye on that and for the time being I'll leave the wheels on their respective lever caps. If the stripping action comes up again, I'll swap out the wheels.
I would have done the planing on the sides to thickness tonight but I was tired. The one thing I didn't want to screw it up was the thicknessing because I was tired. I probably would have made a mistake and not caught it until the next day. Grrr!. No rush or deadlines on this, so I'll pick this up on Saturday.
How teaspoons are there in a cup?
answer - 48 (3 teaspoons to a tablespoon and 16 tablespoons in a cup)
|24 hrs later it's green|
|Matt's came out a little cleaner|
|Ouch! switched to using my right hand|
|rinsed and driedof any water with the hair dryer|
|the plane adjusters|
|my iron is a Sweet Heart one|
|Matt's iron has writing on but I need help to see it|
|it's faint but this is what I saw|
|how the blade is adjusted|
|all the way down|
|all the way up|
|my lever adjust doesn't work|
|Matt's plane works|
|my serrations are kind of flattened out|
|Matt's serrations are better defined|
|side view of my adjuster|
It looks like I'll be rehabbing Matt's plane and not mine. I'll keep mine as is and use it as a paint remover plane. I'll paint Matt's plane, sand the sides and the sole, and make it look as brand new as I can. I put these two aside for now and I'll come back to them later on.
There you go Bob. This is all I know about these. When can I expect a #120 blog post?
|feet stock - this face is flat and straight with no hump|
|sawed off the front and back pieces|
|I am pretty damn happy about it|
|the front is dead nuts|
|I can't plane the two of these as one|
|need a bigger fence|
|used my small block plane|
Tomorrow I'll saw off the tops to the feet and see how well I can do planing them separately and end up with the two of them the same.
What did ancient prospectors use to collect grains of gold from streams?
answer - the fleece of sheep
I have put out one recycling bin only to be told that it must be at least 1/2 full to be put curbside. Let's see if we can do the math on this together. In order to have the garbage picked up I have to have a 1/2 full recycling bin. I have put an empty one along side the garbage and I got a note explaining how wrong I was to do that. I didn't get my garbage picked up that day neither. So, Einstein, what is the solution to this?
What does picking up the garbage have to do with the recycling? If I don't put out one that is at least 1/2 full, nothing gets picked up. I think that there is one and only one genius that has thought up these rules. 90% of the time I only put out the garbage and it gets picked up. Why? because I don't generate enough recycling to put a 1/2 full bin curbside every week. Every once in a while this no pickup crappola happens. I gave up calling city hall to get a clarification on this. I am stuck with the fecal covered end of the stick no matter which I turn here.
|Stanley #120 block plane|
I don't know a lot about these block planes. According to Stanley Catalogue #34 this plane cost 75 cents and was an upgrade over the #103. The #120 got ground parallel sides and a rosewood knob instead of a metal boss like on the #103. Both planes were intended for light duty work. Insert one of Bob Demers blogs on fleshing out about everything you had to now about the Stanley #120 here.
I was expecting a derelict or at the very least something that didn't look as nice as this does. To my eye it is looking like I might be able to rehab the both of them.
|slight differences are apparent|
|knob fits on my plane|
|irons are the same width|
From the Stanley catalogue #34, the bottom and sides were ground on the #120. I'll be doing that on mine a little later on. The #103 had a ground bottom but japanned sides.
|taking a citrus bath until tomorrow|
|new feet material|
|two wide ribbons of sapwood|
|ash is about a 1/4" wider|
I think this is the best choice to to go with. I can easily get the reveal I want on both sides.
|I got my 1/8"|
|I can get both feet out of this and avoid the sapwood|
|found a smaller piece|
|stickered my parts|
Before the hair dryer was invented in 1920, what was used to dry your hair?
answer - the vacuum cleaner
I haven't forgotten about my workbench build. I still have to clean up the face vise and buy all the wood and I'll start to do that next month. I'll make a road trip up to Highlands to buy the wood for the base. I'll build that first and then I'll start in on the bench top. That is in the sequence of events as of now. I'm hoping that I'll be done with it and using it by the end of summer.
|flattened with 80 grit|
|the diamond lapping plate was next|
|I used all 4 of my diamond stones|
|I inherited this shiny bevel|
|iron is done|
|right and left shavings - both the same size and thickness|
|shavings from the center of the iron|
|15 secs work on the 80 grit|
I'll continue to use my diamond stones for all of my tool steel and O1 tools. With the A2 irons I may go back to using water stones just for them. That depends upon what Richard presents in chapters 4-7. I don't have time to watch them on weekday nights and I can't watch them at work on my lunch time(they are blocked). The weekend is the only time I'll be able to catch up on them.
The way I'm sharpening now is working for me. I like the results I get. I can do anything I want with these methods. Now that I know I have to raise that damn burr first, I think I'm heading in the right direction.
|the new project parts|
|these were the back slats|
|getting an eyeball guess-ta-mate|
|my last pine one|
|it's a year old|
|my latest rehabbed #3 plane|
|first side is twist free|
|second one has a slight amount to remove|
|I'm keeping the sapwood|
|the inside faces|
|the shelf is twist free|
|the sides are almost as thick as the feet|
|I want a 1/8" reveal on both sides|
The thing that has been giving me headaches is how to attach the sides to the feet? I have a biscuit joiner and I could use that. Another option is making floating tenons by hand somehow. The last option I thought of was a tenon on the bottom of the sides fitted into a mortise on the feet.
Who was the first president to receive a salary of $100,000 a year?
answer - Harry S Truman (current salary is $400,000 a year)
I got through the first 3 chapters of Richard Maguire's sharpening video.There are 3 more chapters available now with the 7th one due on the 22nd(?). I was reluctant to buy this because I didn't want to muddle my head up with another person showing their way of sharpening. The 3 chapters I've seen so far have been an eye opener. I have watched them each two times so that I could digest and not miss anything that Richard put out.
Like the other videos outputted by Richard and Helen, this one is outstanding. He explains each step in a way that I can easily grasp what it is. I would recommend this to anyone interested in understanding and upping their sharpening game. And this is based on just watching half of it. He also makes sharpening look like it is as easy to do as breathing air. I'm hoping that I'll be able to do it 10% as well as he does. And I'll be happy with that too.
|the real time is 1545|
After the first day I switched from the Westminster chimes to the bim-bam and I was disappointed with them at first. I could barely hear the first hour count when they sounded. Instead of being a 'gong' bim-bam, they have a bell sound which I don't like as much. But as time passed, they seem to get louder and I could hear them and count the hour as they bim-bam'ed..
The first problem is the hands. They don't fit properly on the time shaft and I think they are slipping. I can move the minute hand 5 minutes in either direction before I feel resistance from the time shaft. It has been running now for two days and the chimes are working correctly but the indicated time is off.
The second problem is the paper dial. Where my finger is has a hump. It is humped in a few other places too but not as high as it is here. The minute rubs on it as it passes by and it looks like the hour hand barely clears it too. I will have to fix these two problems before I try to set the time again.
I will have to take the movement out to fix the dial. Fingers crossed on getting it off without ripping it.
|adhesive dot holding the dial in place|
|double sided adhesive dots|
|more than 4|
|first use of my veneer roller|
Went looking for my plastic hands but I couldn't find them. Searched the shop and then I searched upstairs. I looked there because I set up the clock while watching the Perry Mason marathon. After searching for a while I gave up without finding them.
|fixed the problem|
What time is it when 7 bells rings onboard a ship?
answer - 0330, 0730, 1130, 1530, 1930, and 2330
|I can't fix this|
|outlined the scratch area still to be done|
|lots of ugly looking scratches|
|5 more minutes of work|
|compared to the first pic, it is finally getting smaller|
|switched to my 80 grit runway|
|5 strokes on 80 grit and I got a consistent scratch pattern|
|10 strokes on the coarse diamond stone|
|stepped down to the coarsest diamond stone|
|consistent scratch pattern - not as coarse looking as the 80 grit|
|back to the coarse diamond stone|
|what my bevel looks like|
|couldn't get rid of all of the scratches|
|going to road test it as is|
|thin and wispy|
|smooth as a baby's butt|
|other end smoothed|
|flattening the back|
|ten strokes on the 80 grit|
|after 80 grit back to the coarse stone|
|still have a hump to flatten|
|highlighted the problem spots|
|my last run on 80 grit|
|still needs more work|
|20 minutes later|
|pits are gone|
|before I road test the iron|
|took another break|
|not quite 5" to the center of the screw|
|the iron from the plane with paint on the sole|
If everything is set up the same way and I'm using a honing guide for repeatability, why can't I raise a burr now? Did the iron somehow get out of sharp in use - the back of the iron wasn't meeting the toe of the bevel at nothing anymore? Or did I sharpen this before this and not get a burr and just went with a shiny bevel? If I had done that I can see me not being able to raise a burr here and now.
I will have to take this from this point forward. I will raise a burr on this and sharpen and hone it. The next time I have to touch it up we'll see if I can get a burr off of the stones.
|no detectable burr off of the coarsest diamond stone neither|
|got my burr off of the 80 grit runway|
I still have a ways to go on my sharpening. I would like it to be a 1-2-3 event and then back to woodworking. I think I have a ways to go before that happens.
What was Perry Mason's win loss record on his first 7 cases?
answer - 7 straight losses - from Perry himself in the TV Movie 'The Case of the Musical Murder'
|24 hours and ready to unclamp|
|got 3 packages of AAA|
|put the batteries in backwards the first time|
|fixing the clock upstairs|
|back to sharpening|
I can have the shiniest bevel in the universe and still have an iron that wouldn't cut wet paper. A sharp iron is where the toe on the bevel goes to nothing meeting the back of the iron. Therefore, I can have a shiny bevel and a dull iron at the same time.
Now we come to the burr. I've been watching sharpening videos a lot lately and 4 or 5 stand out for one thing. These guys only use two stones to sharpen - a coarse stone to raise a burr and a fine stone to polish the bevel. Two of them that come to mind are Rob Cosman and Richard Maguire using the two stone method. The two stones apart, all of the methods I watched raised a burr first.
I kind of realized that I wasn't doing this a few months ago but I don't sharpen that often. And I was out in La-La land being seduced by that shiny bevel. I also think I was under the influence of Mars being in the House of Jupiter. Or is that the other way around?
The burr raised is much more important then the shiny bevel. The burr comes from the zero meeting of the back of the iron and the toe of the bevel. Once I feel a burr straight across I can then get my shiny bevel.
|I only sharpen at two angles 25 or 30|
|I set the honing guide on the top and drop iron down|
|the iron rests on an aluminum angle iron|
|current stone setup|
Coarse, medium, and fine diamond stones with a 8000 Japanese polishing stone.
|stropping is last|
|my coarsest diamond stone|
This raises another thought I had on my sharpening method. I am questioning my repeatability with the honing guide. But since I haven't been a good boy and checking for a continuous burr each time, I may be chasing my tail on this. I should establish getting a burr each and everytime I sharpen before I question the repeatable factor with the honing guide.
|a few minutes work and I had my continuous burr|
|you can have a shiny bevel and a burr|
|off the extra fine stone|
|shiny I do like|
|the 8K removed the burr and the black lines|
|the chipbreaker has a chip in it|
|LN A2 iron|
|I still don't buy the thick iron PR|
|cleaned it off|
|I still have a burr|
How much silver is in Sterling Silver?
answer - 92.5% silver and 7.5% other metals, usually copper
I have updates set to ask me if it can install an update. It doesn't do that. Instead it installs them without asking me and then tells it is going restart. It happened to me tonight where I got the update installed message and do I want to restart now or later? I picked now to get it over and done with. 37 minutes later it was complete and I could use my computer. This sucks not having this control over my own computer but having to wait and not having use of my computer sucks even more.
|I've been told the old nails looked like this|
|squarish shank with a point|
|the shank isn't centered on all of the heads|
|gluing them in place with OBG|
|my small screw stash|
|my maintenance pile|
|the patent date on this chipbreaker is 1867|
|stropped the leading edge|
|nice pile of shavings|
|no shavings in the space|
|it's a record iron|
|which pile is the Stanley and which is the Record?|
|bevel is shiny|
|the reason why|
I do have a couple of irons that I get a burr raised on but most I'm finding are like this one. I think I'm going to have to go through each and every iron and re-establish the bevels until I get a continuous burr on all of them.
Spokeshave irons I do free hand because they are too small for me to grip with just my fingers. My thanks to Paul Sellers for showing how to make this holder for sharpening these small irons. I still have more to learn about sharpening even though I think I have a lot of knowledge about it.
How many teeth do turtles have?
answer - none, they have horny beaks similar to birds
I have been making clocks for over 40 years and the quality of the movements available today I would put a step below junk. My favorite seller told me that quartz movements today are only good for 2 years, maybe. I made 27 clocks in the same way that Paul Sellers did for his first woodworking video. Out of those 27 movements, I have had nine movement failures. All of the movements were made in China.
I know there were quality, long lasting quartz movements for sale once. I have a kitchen clock I made in 1995 that is still running, keeping perfect time. I had a wall clock I made in 1996 (my wife's brother owns it now) that is still running. That movement is still available but instead of having 3 chime rods, it only comes with 2 now. And the cost of it has doubled.
The movements I am using now are German made and cost about $90. They have bim-bam chimes (my favorite) and Westminster with night silence. They have a 3 year warranty which is way better than the chinese ones. I hope that these work out because I have run out of sources to get decent quartz movements.
|fingers crossed on this|
|potential problem area|
|big, easy to read instructions|
|brass cap nut|
|sometimes you get lucky|
|transferring some lines|
|right over my brand|
|the ring that will secure the speaker in place|
|circle only has 2 1/2 not 2 3/8|
|laid out a grid and drilled 1/4" holes|
|filed it - no problems doing it|
|piss ant sized screws|
|two screwed in|
|what I came up with|
What is the average heart rate of an elephant?
answer - 25-30 beats a minute
I watch a lot of sharpening videos and I read just about every single post I come across to find some nugget that will make me rich. So far it hasn't happened. I am still learning so much about sharpening that my head hurts. I thought that I had it down pat but each time I sharpen something, be it a chisel or plane iron, it is a learning experience for me all over again. I am accumulating a lot of experience and it doesn't look like I will ever be able to say I know enough and I now can do this by rote. In fact when I do it by rote, I usually end up OTL (out to lunch).
Some observations I have gathered in my sharpening education. Firstly, it seems that you have to do your sharpening by hand. No jigs allowed. Sharpening by hand supposedly brings a freedom that you lose once you put a tool to be sharpened in a honing guide. Free hand sharpening is quick and allows you to get your edge and get back to work. It seems you lose all this with a honing guide.
What of the people with arthritis? What do these people do in this situation? I am one of them and free hand sharpening means I don't do any woodworking if I do 2 or more sharpenings. My fingers hurt too much after. However, if I use a honing guide I can sharpen all day long and be relatively pain free when I'm done.
Honing guides are something that have been around for quite a while. I have never seen an old catalog that had page after page of different models for sale. But I have seen singles in old catalogs dated as early as the 1850-60 time frame. So even where free hand sharpening ruled, there was someone trying to reinvent the wheel.
Sharpening isn't a fun thing to do. If you do enjoy it I think your brain cells are oxygen deprived somehow. Sharpening can be monotonous, messy, and royal PITA to do. Sharpening involves a certain amount of time that we would rather devote to working wood. Giving up that time for these dance steps isn't easy.
I think time is the crux of all sharpening methods. With all I've seen and read I haven't seen anything to make one method or one type of sharpening medium stand out from the crowd. What I see and hear is this way is quick, or it is the most efficient, and it takes almost no time to do it. You'll get the sharpest edge you have ever gotten.
What I don't hear is if you use these stones you can shave the peach fuzz off an atom. If you use my patented method your edge will stay sharp until Halley's comet comes around again. No way, no method, no person has said anything about sharpness lasting. No one says that this is the one and only way to get a super duper sharp edge that will last forever.
Instead what I see and read is about the ruler trick and micro bevels. You have to sharpen on this water stone and diamond stones are utter crap. Only ceramic stones will give you a scratch free bevel. And if you use brand XYZ you must be a professional woodworker. Just look at my bevel under an electron microscope. See how the atoms are spinning counter clockwise? You only get that if you use the scary sharp system free hand. If you don't, they don't spin as fast and the edge won't be as sharp. All these tricks, micro bevels etc to me are geared toward saving time and not necessarily for getting sharp.
Putting all this aside I think of what Tage Frid said about woodworking. I'm paraphrasing but he said I don't care if you used your teeth to make it, it's the finished piece that matters. I think what he said applies to sharpening too. How you sharpen or what you use to sharpen doesn't really matter. Are you able to plane and chisel wood easily and cleanly once you say the edge is sharp?
The old masters didn't have the mind boggling choices for sharpening that we have today. When I look at the furniture that they made then (1700-1800) and what they had to use to keep their tools sharp, I am in awe of what they accomplished.
My take on sharpening is I know it is going to take time. I will have to stop whatever I'm doing and I know that I'll be spending xxx amount of precious time not woodworking. I will do it with the method that has been working for me and giving me results I like.
That is the crux of sharpening for me. Freehand or with a guide doesn't matter. You choice of sharpening medium doesn't matter. 1 micron shavings or thick ones doesn't matter. What matters is the sharpness you get from your efforts and if that works for you.
To me getting a tool sharp is just that. The main focus is getting the edge as sharp as I can and have it last as long as it can. Time is secondary to that. My skill level at sharpening will dictate how long I need to do it. With each outing I'm gaining experience and the time factor is decreasing. So put on some music and sharpen that pile.
What is alloyed with steel to make it stainless?
answer - chromium
|setting up for mitering|
|out with the old and in with the new|
|rabbets are next|
|get a ridge|
|cleaned it up with the bullnose plane|
|done and with no blowouts|
|6/8 tongue and groove planes|
|I didn't do any work on the irons|
|made the tongue first|
|plowed the groove|
|went through this knot like it wasn't there|
|it is a snug fit|
|I was expecting more room underneath the tongue|
|5/8 tongue and groove|
|7/8" tongue and groove planes|
|they match up|
|5/8" tongue and groove|
|one of these, or both don't belong to either plane|
|#1 and #2 grooving plane irons|
|they are marked 5/8|
|next T&G planes - irons line up|
|I haven't done any work on the irons|
|where the size confusion is|
|half inch stock|
|better centering of the groove on 3/4" stock|
|fits, not quite flush, and the groove is deeper than the tongue.|
|pretty close on the flush|
|the iron end is square|
|the iron is twisted?|
This was my fun in the shop for today. I stopped to go shovel the driveway and that wore me out. After that adventure I spent the rest of day watching Richard Maguire's sharpening videos.
What are the only two words in the english language that contain all the vowels, including y, in alphabetical order?
answer - facetiously and abstemiously
|flushing the tails|
|need two more shims|
|last one to fill|
|sawing the last thin shim|
|won't be too fat for long|
|partial gap to fill|
|new pine lid|
|flattening a new way|
|knot or something funky here|
|I don't know what this is|
|back to the old kitchen cabinet wood|
|planing the rabbets first|
|just noticed this when getting the lid width|
|opposite side entry|
|opposite side exit|
After I planed down to the pencil lines, I squared up the rabbets. I started with the shoulders first and did the flats that go in the grooves when I fitted them.
|bit of a gap|
|starting to bind with a little more than an inch left to close|
|blew out this corner|
|any scrap will do|
|cleaning up the bevel|
|will it work?|
|I had enough room|
|couldn't remove all of it|
|flushing the bottom|
|forgot the thumb grab|
|I like this gap|
|one of the last boxes I made|
|made this the same time as the one above|
|warming up the OBG|
|glued the bottoms in place with the OBG|
|first coat tonight, second and last one tomorrow|
|branded and dated|
From the corner cabinet stud to the first sink stud was 14 1/2" and the next stud was 15". The lone screw into a stud in the last cabinet was 16" OC .
I also had to shim the front of both cabinets up over a 1/2". I thought the floor sloped down into the middle but I was wrong on that. The floor is high on this wall and it slopes down and away straight into the opposite wall. Nothing in this house surprises me anymore.
|typewriter desk has set up|
|the back molding|
|the would be drawer fronts|
|only three small glue blobs|
|flushed the back|
|plowing the lid groove|
|I didn't try|
I did look at placing the tail out of the way when I did the layout but I didn't like the look. This is a situation where I think laying out the tails and pins over rides a groove running through it.
|it is a small hole|
|laying out the center divider|
|sawing off the line and planing to the line|
|first dado done|
|it's taken me a while|
|wee bit short|
|plugged the holes|
|holder for the side rabbet planes|
|switched to plan #2|
|last step - use a coping saw to remove the waste|
|chisel work to clean up the slot|
|don't need it now|
|where they will live|
|found a lid|
Which US state has had the most tornadoes?
answer - Texas, Kansas is second and Oklahoma is third
|after dinner friday night|
|marked these wrong|
|erased them when I did a 6 sided clean up|
|squared up the ends of the typewriter plywood|
|layout batting next|
|half lap this onto the leg assemblies|
|idea # 4,569|
|shoulders were a bit out of square|
|going with this|
|the back brace will hide 99% of the tear out here|
|gluing it up in steps|
This is where I stopped and got some lunch. After lunch I was 'waiting' for the glue to set up and started playing the nodding game.
|moldings for the desk|
|these will be glued to the plywood hiding the edges|
|flat piece for the back|
|needed some bullnose work|
|on a roll|
|tails laid out|
|getting rid of my training wheels|
|it is working|
|what I normally use|
|it usually slips this way|
|flushed the bottom so I can groove it|
|making a stopped groove|
|missed it on this one|
|only a small chunk missing|
|stopped groove ends|
|first marking gauge|
|2nd marking gauge|
|needed a third gauge|
|chiseled the stops at both ends first|
|made it about 3/8" long|
|it wasn't that difficult to do|
|first one done|
|the plywood fits|
|partial dry fit|
|bottom finally fitted|
|I'll fit this divider tomorrow|
Unless you live in Arizona or some other sensible state, today it spring ahead on the clocks. And the rumor on tuesday's snowfall is 20"
Who was the first ML ballplayer to win a batting title in 3 different decades?
answer - George Brett did it in 1976, 1980, and 1990
|it's lumber core|
|long ones are toast|
I put the doors aside and used a couple pieces of 1x4 poplar to get the legs. I am doing most of this work on the tablesaw to whack this out as quickly as I can. At this point I was bit delusional thinking I could get this done to take it to work tomorrow.
|outside cuts done|
|sawing the shoulder|
|last of the shoulder cuts, cheeks next|
|it's the law|
|one frame dry fitted|
|typewriter and mouse desk|
Keeping the legs at 90° to bottom I don't think I'll have problems coming up with something. Attaching the legs to the bottom will take some thinking. This plywood is 3 frog hairs below a 1/2" and that isn't a lot of meat to screw into.
I won't be taking this to work tomorrow so I'll have time to figure something out. Now it's time to get ready to go out for fish 'n chips.
Who was Ray Tomlinson?
answer - he is regarded as the inventor of email
|0330 this morning|
|the other side|
|what I saw tonight|
|ready to finish cleaning|
|#8 chipbreaker is the first batter|
|best I could do|
|this side was completely rusted at one time|
|final clean up|
|this was badly rusted at one point|
|smooth as a baby's butt|
|#4 iron before shot|
|other side before shot|
|the after shot|
|the 2nd after blurry shot|
|this bevel edge is chewed up a bit|
|the other #4 iron|
|will it work on the screw?|
|it is making shavings|
|someone before me did this|
|it fits now|
|computer desk stock|
We are supposed to get a snow storm tomorrow. 1-3 inches falling from about midnight until dawn. Then a break and 2-4 more inches ending around noontime. Sounds like lots of fun.
What player restriction is in effect in both polo and jai alai?
answer - no left handed players allowed
|what I ordered|
|mating irons waiting for the chipbreakers to be cleaned up|
|bevel on the other side|
|two #4 irons|
|40 minutes later|
They are all sanded down removing all visible rust. The only one I didn't have to do was the #4 chipbreaker on the far right. This one looks like it has been blued. They are all going into the citrus bath, blued or not.
|hot water and 1/4 cup of citrus acid|
I forgot one thing and that was the chipbreaker screws. I checked my stash and I only have one and I need two more. I'll have to order them from nh plane.
|a for me at work project|
This is as far as I got on this tonight. Cleaning up the plane parts took a long time to do. I would like to get something done so I can take it in on saturday and road test it. I'm sure I'll have to adjust the measurements on some of this.
|rearranged the parts|
Who was the first woman to serve as the Grand Marshall of the Tournament of Roses Parade?
answer - Erma Bombeck