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General Woodworking

saw donkeys pt II.......

Accidental Woodworker - 2 hours 59 min ago
It is looking like my knock down saw donkeys may be in jeopardy. The stock is doing stupid wood tricks which should be expected considering it is 2x stock. I'm willing to wager the MC of it in the 20% plus range. Because the stock is moving I might have to change my plans for it being a knock down build.

I was still deciding on how to put on the top bearer.  After looking at tonight's movement, I don't trust a bridle joint staying true. I wouldn't even guess at which way the open mortise/tenon would move. That was my preference but not anymore. A removable pinned mortise and tenon joint was batting 2nd but I discarded that for the same reason I did the bridle joint. The leading contender now is a shallow mortise the same size as the bearer/stretcher. It will be the same joinery I used on the stretchers for the book shelves I made.

it looks good
Everything appears to be straight to the eye. There isn't any obvious cupping or bowing which is much welcomed. I thought I had dodged the bullet here.

twist
This is one of the uprights that can't have twist. It will have a tenon on one end and the inside face will have two shallow mortises.  The bearers and stretchers going in them have to be at 90°.


all of them are twisted
Three of them are twisted in one direction and one twists in the opposite direction. The plan is to remove the twist from one face and square an edge to that. I will do all my layout and marking from those two surfaces. I won't plane to thickness nor make the edges parallel. The saw donkeys will be built with only this planing of the stock. This is a shop appliance and I want to see if what I've read about working wood this way is true. Peter Follansbee makes his chests this way and his non reference faces don't look as pretty as mine do.

putting the toolbox back together comes first
I looked up my handles on Woodcraft and they still cost $35 each (ouch).  I noticed that they have statement there now about the strength of the handles being dependent upon the type of wood they are screwed into. I don't think 3/4" eastern white pine is in the top five for strength.

too much paint on this corner
 The lid wouldn't full close on this corner until I planed it off a bit.

temporary home
I will let this cure out for a week or so and then I'll apply a coat of shellac. I'll follow that up with a couple coats of poly.


a Paul Sellers chiseling guide
I've had trying this in the back of my mind for a long time. I'm going to try it out on the stretcher mortises. I glued this and set it aside to cook. I'll add a few screws to it tomorrow.

stretchers done
I tried to plane the minimum off the faces on all four of these. They are twist free for now and I'll sticker them for another day and check them again.

my wife says this is a mess
I disagree with her. Having shavings on the bench and the deck doesn't bother me at all. They smell great and are easy to sweep up if they get in the way. I like a clean and orderly shop but something like reminds me of why I do woodworking. These are the by product of the work from my hands.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What organization did Henry Bergh establish in 1866?
answer - the SPCA  (Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals)

Harvesting Juncus

The Barn on White Run - Mon, 09/25/2017 - 5:04pm

In Roubo’s description of the finishing processes and materials included in L’art du Menuisier (and thus our To Make As Perfectly As Possible translation) he used the word “juncus” when referring to the fibrous plant from which the polissoirs were made.  At the time we had competing dictionary definitions and identifiers, “rush,” “grass,” and “straw” all showed up in one dictionary or another, and in the end I decided to simply use the word “grass” if I recall correctly.

Yannick Chastang, like my Roubo Project collaborator Philippe Lafargue, was trained in the full multi-year program at Ecole Boulle in Paris, chided me that Roubo chose the word “juncus” on purpose and I should have as well, at least in concert with the word “rush.”  Fair enough, but in retrospect since the word Juncus refers to a genus with over 300 species of grassy rushes I cannot beat myself up too much for that editorial decision.

I was talking about this to Mrs. Barn one day, she being a botanist/mycologist by training, and she said something like, “Well, you are in luck since we have Juncus effusus growing around the pond.”  She took me outside and sure enough, we have a number of fairly immature clumps at the shore of our pond.  When Daniel the stonemason was here building the hand-knapped dry-stack wall a few months ago he mentioned that he had loads of juncus growing around his pound and I was welcome to harvest as much as I wanted.

As a break from our activities during ManWeek John and I took the morning an went to Daniel’s place to harvest soft rush, or juncus.  We first spent a minute ogling his greenhouse.  Mrs. Barn will be most impressed with it when we visit again.

Then we headed to the pond and there was indeed a multitude of soft rushes ringing one end of it.  In less than an hour of harvesting we had the back seat of the Envoy completely filled.

Back at the barn we sorted and arranged the rushes to dry in the sun before moving them inside a few days later.

Yannick avers that polissoirs made from these fibers have a very different feel and performance than the ones I get made from sorghum broom straw.  After this material gets fully dry and I make some Juncus polissoirs I will be able to make my own determination on that.

Stay tuned.

How to Make Vintage Linoleum Countertops – Part 3

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 09/25/2017 - 9:28am

This is the third and last post in a series about making linoleum counters and table tops. Let’s talk about corners. I find corners, whether square or rounded, the most challenging part of making a linoleum topped counter or table. When you’re working with metal edging, measurements have to be ultra-precise, and bending the material can be a challenge. Here are some tips. Square corners are sharp — never more […]

The post How to Make Vintage Linoleum Countertops – Part 3 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Festool Abrasive Mnemonics

Highland Woodworking - Mon, 09/25/2017 - 7:46am

To help us remember the dizzying array of Festool Abrasives, Steven Johnson has given us a mnemonics lesson using word association. Click here to watch the video he made.

The Merriam-Webster dictionary defines “mnemonic” as (noun) “assisting or intended to assist memory.” As an example, they give, “To distinguish “principal” from “principle” use the mnemonic aid “the principal is your pal.”’

I used it just the other day. I wanted to order some paper for my new Festool RO-90 that switches from delta sander to 90mm round random orbit sander, and Rubin2 was the first example that popped up in the 120 grit I wanted. I thought about Steve’s video for a minute, and said, “No, what I want is ‘general, gray,’” which helped me remember it was Granat that I needed, not Rubin2. A couple more clicks on HighlandWoodworking.com and I was on the right paper.

With that in mind, I asked Steve if I could publish a written form of his memory tool that you and I could print out and nail to our shop walls, or laminate and store with our sandpaper supplies. He said OK, so here it is.

Granat: “General-gray-blue color.” Steve says if you can buy only one Festool abrasive, Granat may be your go-to general sandpaper. It’s good on bare wood and finished wood and is supplied in extra-coarse to extremely fine (40 to 1500).

Rubin2: “Raw wood, russet potato red.” It has a special coating that sheds raw wood fibers. It is available from coarse to extra fine (40-220).

Brilliant2: “Between finish coats, beige.” Anti-static coating that works well sanding paints, fillers, varnishes, lacquers, shellac even water-based finishes. Its surface won’t load up or “corn” as some papers do with finish materials. Coarse to fine (40-180).

Vlies (pronounced like “fleece”): “Clean, scour, scuff and polish.” Steve says it’s thick, like a pot-scrubbing pad. Good for applying paste wax on equipment. Clean, scour, scuff, sand, polish, smooth out irregular surfaces. It doesn’t have dust extractor holes, but dust goes right through it. Grits are A100 to A800, polishing green and fine polishing white.

Saphir: “Shaping or stripping.” Aggressive, super-coarse to coarse grits. Removes a lot of material quickly. Grits 24-80.

Platin2: “Premium polishing pad.” Foam-backed for high gloss finishes, pumice and rottenstone. Used extensively in the auto industry, but Steve has used it on an ebony project. Grits range from S400 to S4000.

Titan2: “Tucks in” to curves and contours. Solid surfaces, couple with super-flexible latex backer. Steve says use it t polish your Bentley.

Find out more and purchase Festool Abrasives at Highland Woodworking!

Jim Randolph is a veterinarian in Long Beach, Mississippi. His earlier careers as lawn mower, dairy farmer, automobile mechanic, microwave communications electronics instructor and journeyman carpenter all influence his approach to woodworking. His favorite projects are furniture built for his wife, Brenda, and for their children and grandchildren. His and Brenda’s home, nicknamed Sticks-In-The-Mud, is built on pilings (sticks) near the wetlands (mud) on a bayou off Jourdan River. His shop is in the lower level of their home.Questions and comments on woodworking may be written below in the comments section. Questions about pet care should be directed to his blog on pet care, www.MyPetsDoctor.com. We regret that, because of high volume, not all inquiries can be answered personally.

The post Festool Abrasive Mnemonics appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

new saw donkeys.......

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 09/25/2017 - 1:56am
The first saw donkeys I made were done in january of 2016 which surprised me. I would have bet the ranch they were done this year. So I've had them for almost 2 years but they don't have a lot of mileage. They work very well for this intended purpose but they have a few negatives. They are big, heavy, and take up a lot of real estate in my phone booth shop. I didn't use them much after their initial road test and they have since resided in the boneyard.

My first shop sawing helpers were a pair of saw benches I adapted from Jim Toplin's in his book Traditional woodworker. These are big but not as heavy as the saw donkeys. However, the two of them take up more space than the saw donkeys. I used them for a while but put them aside. I didn't like the low down, have to kneel on the stock to saw something.  These now live almost permanently in the bone yard.

The one thing I really like about the saw donkeys is the height of them. I can lean over and hold the stock with my off hand and saw with the other. My knees don't hurt nor my back, when I'm done using them. After seeing the Oregon Woodworker's blog post on his Krenov styled saw donkeys, I decided to make another set.

My first saw donkeys were made out of 4x4 stock and the new set is being made with 2x4's. That will reduce the weight of them by half. The other problem with them is the space issue. I don't use or need these all the time. So the time I don't need them, they are usually in the way. These new saw donkeys will be a knock down version.  I will be able to take them apart and lay them flat up against a wall out of the way.



filling nail holes
Before I could start on the new donkeys, I had to finish the tool box painting.

raw wood before the paint went on
This is good coverage for one coat. I don't know why I didn't think of using exterior paint before this. Exterior paint covers much better interior paints do.

some holidays here
This was raw wood here too so I'll need to put another coat on the inner lid. The rest of the inside isn't getting anymore paint.

extra screw holes from fixing the banding
I am not going to plug these for now. I may do it later but I doubt it. These don't bother me and they will hidden by tills.

barely damp rag for the nail hole cleanup
needs a another coat
I used sheet rock mud to fill the holes. The holes dished in slightly so I'll repeat the dance steps one more time.

this did the trick
debating whether or not to paint the bottom
the new saw donkey stock
Made a run to Lowes and picked up five 2x4 DF studs.

my doodling for the new saw donkeys
I'm undecided on the top bearer joint. The choices screaming at me the most are a bridle joint or a mortise and tenon. I'm thinking ahead with shrinkage or expansion because this will be a knock down set of donkeys. I don't see any problems with the stretcher and repeating that for the top bearer is another choice I didn't see.

There are doubles in the drawing - I only need 2 top bearers, 2 feet, and two stretchers. I doubled them to account for knots and other headaches that I might of run into.

this has to go somewhere else
I had to move this and the lid around to make some room so I can break down the stock for the donkeys.

this one is almost quarter sawn 
This one will give up the top bearer and the feet.

hidden knots
I only needed 3 1/2 studs but I got five so I could work around these. It has been my experience with DF that you never know what will happen when you saw into a knot like this.

angled brown knot
Brown knots are the worse kind. They are usually dry and have shrunk so if you saw on it, it falls out and you are left with a hole.  I got my layout done across the five studs doing my best to work around any defects. I couldn't avoid not having any knots at all but I was able to work around these types.

double triple checking my cut list
been a while
I knew this was going to be slanted because I could see the tilt in the saw as I sawed. I could have corrected it but completed it as is. I allowed plenty for corrections.




marked a plumb line to saw on
it helped a lot
It worked but it was awkward to do because I had to kneel to see what I was sawing. I only did it on this one and for the rest I concentrated on keeping the saw 90° to the board and sawing on the line. I did ok and I didn't have another slanted cut like the first one.

no way to avoid any knots
I got lucky with the stock I used because the area where the joinery will be done is clear grain with no defects.

everything cut to rough length
not in use - they eat up a lot of space
left over stock
This won't be wasted. I can use this for something else for sure.

getting an idea of what they will look like
^%#@!!)&;;;*(*$@%& rounded edges
Made a call here for getting rid of the rounded edges. I used the tablesaw to do that and trim them down to 3". And since I was using the tablesaw, I sawed all of them to length too.

this is toast
This is a split and these are more annoying then knots. This was going to be a stretcher but now it's going into the burn pile. I milled another stretcher out of the left over stock.

new stretcher rough sawn to length in the vise
I do saw in the vise now more than I have in the past. I think that is mostly to do with my skill with sawing getting a wee bit better. Still not a favorite of mine but I do use it.

pattern stock
The 2x4's are the same width and thickness as the donkey parts. I'll use these to set the marking gauges and figuring out joinery. The piece of plywood will be used to make the profile for the feet ends. I don't want a rectilinear look everywhere. This is also practice for when I will do the same detail on my new workbench.

pattern laid out
can't use the bandsaw
I could have but I didn't feel like clearing it off.

vertical cuts with the Zona
circular cut with the coping saw
This saw cut was not that easy to make. Because of the thinness of the plywood and it projecting up higher than I wanted, it took a lot of concentration. I had to stop and restart quite a few times because the bench got in the way and I couldn't turn the saw to continue the cut. I am going to look into the vertical vee notch sawing jigs I've seen. That would have worked well here.

looks ordinary and needs help
The 'notch' at the bottom looks funny to my eye. It has to be shortened or something to remove the clunky look.

two step haircut
I sawed off about half of it and still didn't like the look of it. On what was left I sawed this slant which I do like.

clipped the top notch to complete the make over
some divider work
It took me 4 tries before I got 3 equal steps.  I know that the two points I have here are the center of the board.

set the mortise gauge to the divider points
It took a while but I finally got the points of the mortise gauge in the divider points. I checked it by running the gauge against each face and the both lined up. This ensures the mortise layout will match up with the tenon layout. I've had problems in the past with this mostly because I didn't gauge off the reference face. Here it doesn't matter which face I use.

1/2" pigsticker
Entertaining chopping all the mortises with the pigsticker. It is a frog within the gauge lines.

it's dull
The plan is too use a through mortise between the upright and feet. These can be pinned and glued and it should be a strong joint.

quick look to see how flat the back is
touched up the tip
It was a little easier chopping but this pigsticker needs to spend a lot quality time on the stones before I can chop mortises with it.  Not only did I have no problems getting a burr doing either face, I noticed that I got a burr chopping the mortise.

1/2" chisel
What a huge difference in chopping with a sharp chisel over a dull one.  I tried my LN 1/2" socket chisel too but it wasn't as sharp as this one. It did chop better than the pigsticker but the LN is getting dull.

drilled 3 holes
The third hole over the middle one was a knot. One of the fun things to expect working with DF. This is how I used to do all my mortise work. Drill a bunch of holes and chisel it out. I'm undecided right now but I think this is the way I'll do the donkey mortises.

not too bad of a mortise
This is a lot better than the last mortise I remember doing this way.

it's a consistent 1/2" end to end
I painted it
I did the bottom because of where this is going to live. It'll be on the cement floor and with this painted it should help with keeping the moisture from getting into the interior. I have also flooded out the basement a few times and it's home is a low spot for that.

stickered
I normally don't do this with 2x stock because I don't know what the moisture content is. Some of the 2x4's were light and one was heavier than the others. I'll work with what I have tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Which US President is third for having places named for him?
answer - Abraham Lincoln

Things Change.

The Furniture Record - Sun, 09/24/2017 - 11:07pm

On a recent trip to the Philadelphia area for a wedding, I had a chance to visit some of my favorite antiques dealers in South Jersey. At one of them, I came across this rather ordinary bench:

IMG_3742

Door on the right and vise on the left are missing.

This bench has a tool tray and a tool rack on the back:

IMG_3752

Rather wide breadboard end with dog holes in line with the missing vise.

Drawers have machine cut dovetails:

IMG_3748

It happens. Seems to be a 20th century bench.

An adjustable bench stop is currently frozen in place:

IMG_3744

It can be fixed.

The odd thing here was the label on the front of the bench:

IMG_3750

Not what you expected? Don’t that beat all?

If you know Hammacher Schlemmer at all, you probably know them for that catalog that makes you wonder why you’re getting it. It features such brilliant gifts such as The Best Bug Vacuum for $69.95 and the $50,000 The Barbecue Dining Boat.

Hammacher Schlemmer actually has a more interesting past:

from Wikipedia:

Hammacher Schlemmer began as a hardware store specializing in hard-to-find tools in the Bowery district of New York City in 1848. Owned by proprietors Charles Tollner and Mr. R Stern,[2] it became one of the first national hardware stores. A few months later, Stern withdrew and Toller continued the business until 1859, moving in 1857 to 209 Bowery. In 1859, family friend Albert Hammacher invested $5,000 into the company and the name was changed to C. Tollner and A. Hammacher.

Throughout the 1860s, William Schlemmer gradually bought out Charles Tollner’s stake in the company. When Tollner died in 1867, 26-year-old Schlemmer entered into a partnership with Hammacher and Peter F. Taaks. As a result, the company changed its name to Hammacher & Co. William Schlemmer had been actively involved with the business since 1853 when he moved to New York City from Germany at age twelve and worked at the storefront. After a few years Taaks resigned and since Schlemmer owned a greater portion of the company, the name was changed in 1883 to the present style of Hammacher Schlemmer & Co.

And it was all down hill from there.

Things change. Look on eBay for Hammacher Schlemmer in collectables and antiques.

More history for young people:

Abercrombie & Fitch: Founded in 1892 in the Manhattan borough of New York City, New York, by David T. Abercrombie and Ezra Fitch, Abercrombie & Fitch was an elite outfitter of sporting and excursion goods, particularly noted for its expensive shotguns, fishing rods, fishing boats, and tents.

American Eagle Outfitters: The first attempt was to open American Eagle Outfitters in 1977, positioning it as a proprietor of brand-name leisure apparel, footwear, as well as accessories for men and women, emphasizing merchandise suited for outdoor sports, such as hiking, mountain climbing, and camping.

I bought my first (and last) sleeping bag and tent at American Eagle Outfitters.

I am adding the following item to this blog because I found it interesting and don’t know where else to put it. I did find it at the same shop which makes them location coincidental. It is this box:

IMG_3760

A box with white dovetails?

And waterfowl on the lid:

IMG_3765

I could speculate as to what the bid is but I choose not to.

A closer view does not necessarily provide answers:

IMG_3763

I still don’t know…

My best guess after looking at the actual box and these pictures if that it is a veneer failure. Looking at the corner of the lid you can see the substrate is white and the veneer likes to free itself. There is already a veneer failure at the edge of the tail board. Wood movement cracked the veneer and it either fell off or was picked of by idle fingers.

But, I could be wrong…


Weekend with Wood 2018

360 WoodWorking - Sun, 09/24/2017 - 11:07am
Weekend with Wood 2018

It’s OFFICIAL! I am a presenter at the 2018 Weekend with Wood woodworking event hosted by Wood Magazine at its Des Moines, Iowa classrooms and shops. The event is held May 17th through the 20th, so make your reservations now. Listed as teachers at next year’s event are names such as Gary Rogowski, Jeff Miller, Vic Tesolin, Steve and Jeremy Stevenson, George Vondriska, the staff at Wood magazine and others.

Continue reading Weekend with Wood 2018 at 360 WoodWorking.

lackadaisical saturday......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 09/24/2017 - 3:03am
My saturday started way before oh dark thirty. I did some OT and going in early to do that kind of killed any motivation to do anything today. Part of that is I don't have a project to occupy my attention that involves wood. I have a quite a few tool rehabs that have been simmering on the back burner that I could do. But I convinced myself that I didn't want to get my hands dirty working metal.

I could make something like this from the Oregon Woodworker to tide me over project wise. I had made a set of these out of 4x4's last year (?) and they work but are a PITA to move around and use. I like the lighter look and weight of these. I am not a fan of a saw bench but I dido like sawing on my saw donkeys. I was still suffering from my bigger has to be better sickness when I made the 4x4 monsters I have. Lowes sells Douglas Fir 2x stock and I will make a run to get them tomorrow.

I should be working on new workbench. But my wife threw a huge monkey wrench into that happening. She decided that she wasn't paying the Lowes credit card bill anymore because I had paid off my VISA card. I had forgotten all about it because she has been paying it for the last few years. So I took all the $$$ I had saved up in the bank for the workbench and gave it to Lowes. The plan is to have it paid off by the end of October. I still have high hopes that I will at least be able to make the base for it this year.

first use of the miter box
 I think for most of my saw cuts that I will do them without this. I am using this here to saw a 22.5° angle on the ends of the handles on the big toolbox till. For angle cuts and repetitive cuts to the same length, I will use this.

The auxiliary base I used is 3/4" and it is not thick enough for this. I can barely make out the saw kerf made by the saw. If I remember it I'll get a 5/4 pine board from Lowes tomorrow. That thickness should be ok and I should be able to put a saw kerf in it.

one 22.5° cut done
 This is not off the saw. This is the after pic cleaned up with the block plane.

the before pic right off the saw
This is too rough looking for my tastes and that is why I planed them.

the 2nd after pic planed up
This was all the woodworking I did today.

worth the calorie expenditure
To my eye this dresses this up and it looks better than squared off ends. If hadn't used a molded piece but a flat one, I still would have cut an angle on the end.

need to fix one more thing
 I noticed a problem with the dust band molding I put on last thursday. This side the gap is thin as is the front on the left side. Also notice a ugly looking paint drip on the lid as I looked at this pic. Yikes!

the right side has a gap
I had used my 4" square to set the distance of the banding from the top of the toolbox. The only thing I can think of that may have caused this is my planing of the lid. Maybe I took a few more strokes  off the right side then I did the left. I could have also planed a slant in the lid. This has to be closed up

one more fix to do
When I installed the banding I forgot to trim the side pieces to length. I want the end of the molding will line up with the end of the toolbox. On this end it is a hair over an 1/8" and less than an 1/8" on the other one. The banding is only glued at the miters and is screwed to the toolbox from the inside. This wasn't luck, but something I planned for just in case I had to replace or repair it. I didn't expect to be doing it so soon. The fix was quick and easy. I screwed the right side back in place using new screw holes. I don't plan on plugging the holes.

my Preston chamfer spokeshave
I was playing around with this before I did the toolbox fixes. I was planning on stripping this and rehabbing it today. I sanded the iron and this popped out. It is an original Preston iron - not sure if it is original to this tool though. I ran into a problem in that I am missing washers. They are needed for the sliding stops that are at the top right to secure them. With no washers the thumbscrew goes in the slot and the stops still move. So off to Lowes I went (this was before I thought of making the saw horses).

that is the size I need
The number 10 washers I just bought are too small. Being clever, I was going to get a #12 washer. Lowes didn't have a #12 washer. They go from #10 to 1/4". McMaster-Carr sells #12 washers ($13@100 plus S/H) but I'll have to measure this one and see if I can match it with what McMaster sells.

I bought an assortment package of washers
 As a general rule, I don't like buying assortments. In this case I did it for two reasons. First to find two washers I needed for the spokeshave and two was for the small lock washers. I don't have any other than 1/4-20's. The assortment gave no joy with a washer that fit. The 1/4-20 was a bit too big and of course I have a boatload of them.

I couldn't find a fit
 The thumbscrew fit the 7/32 size loosely and nothing on the metric size. Everything I checked there was either too small or loose.

too loose in the 6mm hole
It is too big for the 5mm and there isn't a 5.5mm hole. Moot point as I don't know if Preston was using Metric when it made this and two, I don't know the size of the screw. I don't have a metric screw pitch gauge nor a Whitworth gauge. From what I read about Whitworth, the sizes below 1/4-20 are a close fit with imperial.  (McMaster has 5.5mm stuff but not 5.5mm thumbscrews or 5.5mm washers).

painting the toolbox
The best way to paint something like this and not get paint on the hardware, is to remove it first. It is a few extra dance steps but it pays off with a better looking job.

first coat
I used flat exterior paint because it will cover better than an interior paint. I picked a color called nocturnal green I picked it for the color, not the name). Paul Seller's toolbox was painted a blackish green color that I liked and this looks to be pretty close to that. Two coats on the exterior and I'm hoping to get away with only one coat on the exterior. The inside of the toolbox is not going to be painted.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the Great White Way?
answer - the nickname for the theater district on Broadway in New York City

Meet Katerina Kiranos – Pachamama Workshop

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sun, 09/24/2017 - 3:00am

If you asked me five years ago what I thought I would end up doing with my time, woodworking would have been one of my last guesses. My story begins in a high-rise, towering over the neon-painted beaches of Miami, Florida. I was raised by a single mom, a strong-willed Spaniard with a business of her own who stubbornly managed to become her own handyman, and my brother, a talented […]

The post Meet Katerina Kiranos – Pachamama Workshop appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

From Pinterest to Real Life – A Custom Necklace Stand

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 09/23/2017 - 3:00am

I was recently asked to be Godfather to my youngest niece. This is quite the honor, especially in my Italian-American family. This notion has much less to do with religion and much more to do with influence in my family. You see, this pretty much gives me full license to spout off on a myriad of topics for the rest of my niece’s life. She won’t always be obligated to […]

The post From Pinterest to Real Life – A Custom Necklace Stand appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Stanley 2358 done......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 09/23/2017 - 12:37am
It's done. After sitting unloved for months and with relatively few calories expended, I have a miter box. I also have a Stanley 358 miter box but that one is missing a lot of parts. It was also used and abused, and put away wet. Needless to say, it has a few issues. The big plate saw I have came with that miter box. Now that I have a functioning miter box we'll have to see if I use or just look at it.

I was looking at Lie Nielsen's miter box saws with the thought of maybe buying one. The largest saw they offer is 28" long with a 4" saw plate that is 0.032 thick. Both of the miter box saws I have are 0.045 and 0.048 thick. They are also longer than 28". LN is the only maker of saws that I know of that offers miter box saws but they state their saws will fit Langdon or Miller Falls miter boxes. I can't remember which of these Stanley bought out?

pretty much even
The back one is bit higher on the left side and there is a solid contact with both on the bench. I whacked the back one down until it matched the front one. Why is the front one longer on the left?

replaced the phillips head screws
These screws are a 1/4-20 and I have a lot of these. I'm replacing the crappy PH screws with the slotted one that has a much larger head with a fair size bearing surface. It looks to be 3 times the PH bearing surface real estate.

the far left and near right are high
it was awfully close
When I flipped the box up onto it's feet, it was almost a four point contact. In hindsight, maybe I shouldn't have corrected it the way I did it. I gave the two high feet a whack with the hammer and checked it. It took a couple more before I got a perfect no rocking 4 point contact.

This miter box frame is cast iron and cast iron is strong but not as strong as you might think. It is very easy to stress it causing a break or crack. I didn't think that far ahead when I did my love taps on the feet. What I should have done was check the lay of the land, remove the feet and whack them, put them back on and check it. Start the dance steps again if I didn't have a 4 point contact.. Sometimes you get lucky.

front saw guide post
I am missing the screw on the back post and this one is the front one. I screwed this all the way down to see if I could get the $25 saw closer to the base.

blurry pic of the screw
I am not 100% sure of what this screw is for but it will raise or lower the saw guide post. Doing that raises or lowers the height of the saw relative to the base. The missing screw in the back post explains why there was at a slant front to back.

a little more than a 1/2" shy
I got the $25 saw to get a lot closer to the base. I can screw a 3/4" sub base to the existing one without losing any capacity.

the cut with the $25 saw I forgot last night
the $25 saw has a 3 1/2" plate
I don't know the age of this saw nor the maker. In my Stanley catalogs, the smallest miter saw plate is 4" so maybe this one has just been sharpened down to this?

the big plate saw fits - it has a 4 3/4" plate
Before I put the handle back on, I wanted to make sure it fit.

these hold downs
Stanley calls them 'stock guides'. Whatever they are called, they work surprisingly well. I made several cuts at 90 and 45 just using the stock guide and had no problems with stock movement. I did have a few problems holding the stock with my free hand and sawing. I had a hard time holding the stock steady as I sawed.

sawed a 90 and then a R/L 45
pretty good for off the saw with a molded profile
The molded profile doesn't match up but it's square.

better profile fit and still square
These are the two off cuts from the R/L miters.  All the saw cuts except for the first pic, were all done with the big plate miter saw.

found a piece of plywood for a base
it pays to be a pack rat
it's new home for now
The miter box is done. With the base screwed on I now have something I can put in the dogs or use bench hooks to secure it. That will keep it from dancing around as I try to saw something on it.

both saws will live here
For now I'll be using the $25 saw unless I have to saw anything deeper than 3". The underside of the spine on the big plate saw has scallops on both sides. One side has more than the other. When pushing the saw back and forth through the guide posts, the scallops cause it to jump up and down. It makes sawing a bit harder to do. The action is no way as smooth or as bump free as the $25 saw is. Both saws are within an 1" of each other in length so I am not losing any capacity in that direction.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the last element on the periodic table?
answer - Ununoctium                                              

Meanwhile In The Next Room: Tuning Up The Ripple Molding Machine

The Barn on White Run - Fri, 09/22/2017 - 8:14am

While I was occupied with the Roubo bench slab in the center hall of the barn John was a dozen feet away in the classroom tinkering with the Winterthur ripple molding cutter.  When we gathered earlier as a group we identified a number of modifications that might serve to transform it into a reliable, precision machine.  I ordered all the materials and supplies we thought we needed for this undertaking so everything was ready to go for John to dive in to making these modifications a reality.

As a moment of review, the ripple molding machine is simply a contoured scraper being drawn across a length of wood, with either the scraper or the workpiece being undulated by some sort of linear pattern.  In short, a ripple molding is the result of controlled chatter.

In the case of this machine it is the cutter that remains fixed relative to the length of the frame, but which undulates up-and-down via a horizontal “follower” rod affixed to the cutterhead frame, pressing down on the pattern running the length of the machine frame.  We found in our earlier efforts that either the pattern or the follower ere being degraded and even destroyed by the very process of creating the moldings.

I do not know how this problem was dealt with historically, but for our applications we decided to replace the extant follower rod with a new rod and tiny roller bearings to instead ride along the pattern, transferring the up-and-down impulse without friction to the cutterhead.  John spent extensive time retrofitting the cutterhead to accommodate this modification without damaging or changing irrevocably the machine as it was presented to me.

After installing the new follower system John reported to me with a grand smile that it as a perfect solution to the problem, and would guide our design considerations as we move forward with new machines in both our futures.

 

 

Book Giveaway: Canopy Kings Treehouse Book

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 09/22/2017 - 5:38am
perfect treehouse

Don’t miss tonight’s airing of “The Canopy Kings” TV show pilot featuring “The Perfect Treehouse” author Django Kroner and his crew of treehouse builders. Django’s treehouses are amazing and the book he created with us is filled with great advice for building your own treehouse (whether it’s a backyard build for the kids or a weekend getaway in the woods). Make sure to check out “The Canopy Kings” on Animal Planet […]

The post Book Giveaway: Canopy Kings Treehouse Book appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Stanley 2358 miter box......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 09/22/2017 - 1:26am
Finally did something with the miter box. It has been gathering dust since I bought earlier this year. I decided to see if I could get it together and start making sawdust with it. I had bought it already rehabbed for $$$ I don't remember and I had bought it for this reason and that it was complete.

almost forgot this
The last saw I sent out didn't have this shipping info in the inside of the box and I almost lost it in the USPS system. I unscrewed the lid to put the to/from in it and I found that I had deleted the shipping address I had gotten as an email. I will have to wait to get it again and this will most likely go out on saturday.

all the parts are here
This is what the seller told me. All the parts except for the saw but I already had one. In fact I bought another miter box saw I for $25. I'll be trying that one out in the box first.


axle hitch grease
I spread some grease on this and the same part on the swinging arm.

not lining up
I got the bolt holding the arm screwed in but the front end isn't aligned. There are two pins here, one large and one small that are the problem.

the angle detent
This is what is not lining up for me and not giving me a happy face. There is a small pin on the arm that falls into the detent to lock the arm. It isn't even close to lining up.

the smaller pin is for the angle detent
I didn't know what the larger pin is for right now. I thought maybe it was a bearing surface for possibly keeping the arm at a certain spacing between itself and the half circle with the detents.

the light bulb came on when I saw this.
I was preparing to take the arm apart at this end. I could see that the arm had to go further towards the back to align the detent pin with the detent holes. As I turned this on the side the large pin moved to this position. This obviously hooks on the half circle somehow and then the detent pin should line up with the detents.

how it has to go on
The hook on the big pin goes on the half circle on this end (or the other one). Doing this by myself was incredibly awkward and a huge, huge, PITA. I was swearing so much at this that even I was blushing. I tried raising it up on my gluing helpers but they won't high enough. Hanging it off the bench didn't work because the arm was at the 45°. I didn't have enough arms and hands to do it horizontally and still see what I was doing.  I finally got some joy with standing it vertically on one end. It wasn't ideal but I was able to get the arm hooked on the half circle and the bolt screwed down.

how it goes on
I had this very loose and managed to hold it in a detent while I got the bolt screwed in.

setting the tension
This screw sets how tight the big pin hook is pulled down onto the half circle groove it turns in. If you tighten it down too much, it pulls the detent pin down too. I tightened it to where it first started to pull the detent pin down and backed it off a 1/4 turn. I'll have to use it for a while until to get a feel for it before I change it.

pointer
I had taken this off first thinking it might have been interfering with setting the arm. It didn't and has nothing to do with positioning the arm in any way. I screwed it back down and set it on zero.

the base feet are toast
Only three of the legs touch the bench. I won't be able to screw this to an auxiliary base until I straighten them out and get a 'four' point contact.

$25 saw
It fits and it doesn't fit. This is as far as the saw will drop which makes it good for only sawing air.

found some help
The 2x4 raised the bed up high enough that I could saw a piece of scrap. The saw behaved much better than I expected. The sawing action was smooth and easy.  I was able to hold the stock and not have the saw grab and move it. The saw is also sharp and easily went through the stock with no hesitation at all.


multiple saw cuts
I only made one 90° and a bunch of 45° cuts (all from the right side). The face of the cut isn't a planed surface but the roughness of it isn't terrible. I would put it above a 80 grit sandpaper feel and below a 120 grit. I would be alright with using stock off the saw with this box.

this is a pretty good lucking dry fitted 45°
I can definitely live with this
supposed to have two of these
This is part of the system for setting the depth of the saw cut. I took off the two of them (one set on the front and rear saw posts) to see if I could get the $25 saw to sit deeper. It did nothing for that and I lost the back one. I unscrewed the back one by reaching over from the front and I dropped the screw which fell on the deck and this which landed where?

I checked under the bench where I keep the planes and hadn't fallen there. I swept the floor and piled the shavings up and sifted through them trying to find it. No joy. I then ran a magnet through it and I only found that my #6 screws I used on the shipping box are magnetic. I didn't find what I was looking for.

look what I found

I was screwing the parts back on the saw guide post when I saw it. There much tumultuous joy and dancing in Mudville.

what is this?

they are laying flat here
I didn't check it but I can't imagine the cast iron base on the miter saw not being flat. I was hoping one foot would be high making it easy to fix. It looks like I'll be putting them on, banging on them, until it lays flat. I'll try that tomorrow because now it's shop quitting time. Wrestling with the arm trying to get it on took more time than I thought.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What did Francis Crick and James Watson find in 1953?
answer - they are credited with discovering the DNA double helix



Festool Recon – New Reconditioned Tools Website from Festool

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 9:22am

From time to time, Festool offers their reconditioned tools in a big sale, which presents an opportunity to purchase their tools at a decent price point. Several of my tools from Festool are reconditioned, and I wouldn’t have known – they came “like new.” A new website from the German toolmaker has cropped up, with a tantalizing URL: festoolrecon.com. While the website is vague as to exactly what it will be […]

The post Festool Recon – New Reconditioned Tools Website from Festool appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Video: Simple String Inlay with Your Router

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 8:00am

String inlay is a quick and dramatic way to add interest and dimension to any woodworking project. And it’s not just string inlay, you can add banding and any number of decorative veneer pieces using the router that’s already in your shop. You may need to tweak the edge guide a bit and certain operations will benefit from more specialized bits, but the benefit to your projects will be well […]

The post Video: Simple String Inlay with Your Router appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Festool Heaven: Which Festool Should You Buy First?

Highland Woodworking - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 8:00am

For this month’s issue of Festool Heaven, we asked Steve Johnson which Festool he would recommend for a friend if they had never owned a Festool product before. He said the question sounded strange at first, but after thinking about it awhile, he came up with a surprising answer.

Click here to read Steve’s recommendation

The post Festool Heaven: Which Festool Should You Buy First? appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

September spoons for sale

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 7:49am

 

 

 

I’ll be updating my workshop-teaching schedule soon with some Plymouth CRAFT classes and looking toward next year (we’ve started planning Greenwood Fest already!) In the meantime, I have a few spoons (and one bowl) for sale this time – if you’d like one, just leave a comment and we can take it from there; paypal or check is fine either way. Woods this time are birch, cherry & walnut. All carved with hatchet, knife and hook knife. Finished with food-grade flax oil. Prices include shipping in US. Elsewhere additional charge for shipping. Click the images to enlarge. Thanks for you interest, if you have questions just leave a comment or send an email.

————————–

Sept spoon 01; black birch.

L: 10 1/2″  W: 2 3/4″
$85

 

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Sept spoon 02; black birch,

L: 10 1/2″   W:  2 5/8″
$85

 

——————

Sept spoon 03; black birch

L:  10 3/4″  W:  2 1/2″
$85

—————

Sept spoon 04,

L: 12″   W: 2 7/8″
$95

 

————————

Sept spoon 05

L:  11 1/2″   W: 2 3/4″
$85

—————

Aug spoon 01 –

this one was my favorite from last time. Didn’t get picked. Might be the price tag…but this is as good a spoon as I can make. cherry, crook. This spoon blank left me with a very long, narrow bowl. Overall a long spoon. Great crook shape, I couldn’t resist.

L: 13 7/8″   W:  2 1/8″
$125

———————-

Sept spoon 06

Walnut. I’ve been riving up some walnut for joined stools, and got some bits here & there to try for spoons. Radially split.

L:  10 1/2″  W:  2 3/4″
$85

———————

Sept spoon 07, walnut (see above)

L: 10 1/2″  W: 2 7/8″
$85

————–

Sept spoon 08; walnut

L: 10 1/2″  W: 3″
$85

——————

large cherry crook

The last of these over-sized cherry crooks.

L: 13″  W:  4″
$150

————————-

The cherry bird bowl. I have more of these underway, but won’t get to them for months now – I have a lot of furniture work ahead of me. The bird bowls come from great curved crooks.

L: 15″  H: (at front) 7 1/4″
$500

 


Festool USA – Opening Soon

MVFlaim Furnituremaker - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 7:49am

https://www.festoolrecon.com/password

Festool will soon be offering reconditioned tools.


Completing Workbench Mortises (a semi-misadventure)

The Barn on White Run - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 5:17am

When I last left the oak Roubo bench 4+ years ago it was still quite  ways from being done (one of the great benefits of building a bench a la David Baron is that it can get done in a week).  The leg tenons were all cut, but only two of the dovetailed mortises and none of the rectangular mortises, so clearly a lot of drilling and chopping was in store.  There was nothing exceptional about the task or process other than it required flipping the top a couple of times to get the job done.  The last two dovetailed open mortises took about an hour to knock out.

Drilling and chopping the closed mortises went smoothly.  For three of the four.  And the fourth?  Grrrrr!  For some inexplicable reason I switched from a Forstner-style bit to a long auger bit for my drill, and it went astray.  Not just astray but bound tighter than a drum and would not move forward or backward (a theme that was not yet fully played out).  After a lot of fussing and fuming I was eventually forced to drive it through the other face using my sledge hammer.  Sheer brute force.  I was reminded of my late friend Mel Wachowiak’s quip, “With enough force you can pull he tail off a living cow.”  Or drive a 7/8 auger bit through an inch of solid oak.

This blew out a chunk of the face adjacent to the mortise, leaving me less cheery than you might expect, my anger being tempered only by the fact that all this damage took place on the underside of the slab. An hour later I had knitted together all the splintered wood and glued it back in place to leave overnight.  In the end it was a patience-expanding experience.

The good news is that the repaired place (epoxy and shavings filled) held up perfectly when chopping the mortise in that area.  The repair felt just like the adjacent wood and held a nice crisp corner with no chipping or fracture.

So now the mortises were all done and seemed to provide a nice snug fit, and I was looking forward to driving the legs home in the morning.

Oh, about that…

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