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General Woodworking

Splitting wood with a froe

Steve Tomlin Crafts - 4 hours 7 min ago
Sometimes, the wood really works with you. This sycamore was certainly on my side. Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

Design Elements of Arts & Crafts Furniture: Offset Surfaces

Bob Lang's ReadWatchDo - 4 hours 19 min ago
Furniture from the American Arts & Crafts period is often misunderstood and misinterpreted. Many woodworkers assume that the deliberate lack of ornament means it is easy to build. One often overlooked feature is the visual effect of parallel surfaces that … Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

The Highland Woodturner: What Type of Turning Tools Should You Purchase?

Highland Woodworking - 6 hours 16 min ago

In the May 2017 issue of The Highland Woodturner, Curtis Turner answers a question many new woodturners ask – what types of turning tools should I buy?

My students often ask what type of tools they should buy. Specifically, should they buy inexpensive tools or go straight for the expensive ones? I think this question deserves a bit of discussion and does not have a single best answer that fits everyone, but this does not mean one should sink into analysis paralysis.

Click to read Curtis’s thoughts on the tools a woodturner should purchase for their own woodturning shop.

The post The Highland Woodturner: What Type of Turning Tools Should You Purchase? appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

VIDEO: Frank Klausz – Home Tour & String Inlay Advice

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - 6 hours 45 min ago

Frank Klausz has created many beautiful furniture pieces in his lifetime, and one of the features he enjoys using is string inlay. In this short video, Frank takes us on a tour of his home, pointing out a number of the pieces he has made. He highlights a china cabinet in his dining room for its special inlay features, then takes us into the shop to show us how it’s […]

The post VIDEO: Frank Klausz – Home Tour & String Inlay Advice appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Ron Herman: Barometric Pressure & Woodworking – 360w360 E.233

360 WoodWorking - 9 hours 5 min ago
 Barometric Pressure & Woodworking – 360w360 E.233

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking we talk with Ron Herman of Woodworkingwithron.com to get his take on how barometric pressures figure into our woodworking. Along with how pressure effects wood, he shares stories on how it effects your tools, too.

Join 360 Woodworking every Thursday for a lively discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more). Glen talks with various guests about all things woodworking and some things that are slightly off topic.

Continue reading Ron Herman: Barometric Pressure & Woodworking – 360w360 E.233 at 360 WoodWorking.

disaster day.....

Accidental Woodworker - 12 hours 7 min ago
Had one major and one minor disaster today. The major one sucks and it'll be expensive to fix. The minor one is more of an 'aw shit', toss it, and start over again. My canon camera failed the bounce test with Mr. Concrete floor again for the 3rd time. The lens won't open or retract all the time and I get a  lens error when it doesn't open or close. I got it to work a few times by manually pulling the lens open but that isn't something I want to do for every pic I snap in the shop.

The canon camera I have sucks in that I can't just replace the faulty lens. I not only have to replace the entire lens assembly but also the CMOS circuitry that makes the pics. The last time this happened it cost me $225. It is not something I want to shell out $$$ for again. Besides that, the last time I had it done the camera guy said parts were getting hard to find for it. I found the camera I started taking pics with when I started this blog 10 years ago. I'll use that until I figure out what to do next in the pic snapping department.

so far it's working
My experiment is paying off. I had put on several coats of shellac on the bottom of the feet and let them cure for about a week plus. The bookshelf has been on the workbench for 3-4 days and the feet are still clean. What I would do in the past was to put the shellac on and wait about a half hour and set the bookcase on it's feet to apply finish to the rest of it. The downside to that is the finish wasn't fully cured and hard yet so any debris on the bench ended up on the feet. As you can see the feet are still clean.

working on the stone holder
I need to make the dado for the wedge that will capture the stone and keep it from moving.

bandsawed the wedge and squared it up
waste removal next
I am not going to use two opposing wedges. Instead I am using one wedge and the dado to do my holding. My reasoning is that I don't need opposing wedges here and this looks like it will work.

waste removed, router will get me to a consistent depth
wee bit too deep with the saw on this wall
first hiccup
With the wedge secured in the dado, the stone isn't secured at all. I can push it right off the holder with my pinkie. I should have knifed my line on the left side of the pencil and not the right. There is a very slight gap between the end of the stone and the wall of the dado.

side rabbets 4, me %%$#^^@@=&*( zero
All I seem to be able to do with these are to make a couple of shavings and dig a groove at the bottom of the dado.

same luck on the left side
I tried using both side rabbet planes on both sides coming from different directions. The only thing I succeeded at was making the groove at the bottom. I'll have to make some test grooves in pine and spend some quality time figuring out how to use these planes.

disaster I forgot
 I had to make the dado 2 frog hairs wider and I almost made it. Pulling this back after making the cut on the tablesaw it slipped and made this cut.

the wedge is cocked
The stone extends over the left side of the wall 3 frog hairs. I thought maybe the right wall wasn't plumb but it is as is the left one too. I think maybe the stone extends 2 frog hairs too much over the left edge of the dado.

should have done it this way?
Maybe the opposing wedges need to act against each other? And not the top of the stone edge. Or maybe my single wedge idea is half baked and needs a half dovetail on the left to keep it from cocking?

road test up coming
The right side corner got dinged somehow and rolled a sizeable burr down onto the back. I will have to fix the bevel and sharpen this again. I got the wedge to seat on the bottom of the dado and not be cocked.

it is working on both
The stone isn't moving and I'm grinding a new bevel.

the wedge is cocking
shelf liner
I don't have a hook on this and I purposely used the shelf liner to test it. The stone didn't budge or move in any direction at all. At least something went right for me tonight. On stone holder #3 I'll also go without a hook. If the shelf liner fails the hook is something I can easily add. Without it, it makes stowing the holder easier because it will lay flat.

I don't know what I'm going to do with this holder. I could glue the wedge in place and start over but I'll revisit this tomorrow.

I only have a couple of coats of 3lb shellac on this and I'm picking up reflections in the side off of the bench. I am still going to put on at least two more coats. I will steel wool this tomorrow and put on two more and evaluate it again then.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the oldest US Greek letter college society?
answer - Phi Beta Kappa established at the college of William and Mary in 1776

Arts & Crafts Legs: Like Gus

360 WoodWorking - Wed, 05/24/2017 - 9:01am
 Like Gus

This past week I had a few woodworkers in class to build a Stickley desk based on a L & JG Stickley #602 original. No, we didn’t keep the project as a true reproduction. We added side and rear slats to dress it up a bit, and updated different aspects to make the desk more usable – each woodworker picked and chose where to drift from the original design. I also drifted on my own as I built a desk to serve as a prototype.

Continue reading Arts & Crafts Legs: Like Gus at 360 WoodWorking.

Plane Spotting for the Deeply Curious

Tools For Working Wood - Wed, 05/24/2017 - 4:00am

First of all, thanks to everyone who met us in Amana for Handworks 2017, and to Jameel and Father John of Benchcrafted for putting on another great event.

Thanks as well for the great reception our poster has gotten. For it I have to thank Tim, TFWW's designer, and Kate, our poster designer. And I want to thank our favorite woodwright for this photo.

I constantly get asked which plane is which, and while our limited edition poster on plane spotting has some basic profiles (and get the poster while we still have some - it's a limited edition and we are almost out), I thought it might be worthwhile to give you some links on how to do serious plane spotting.

Most of these sites don't go into the minutia of different versions of the same tool, but some sites do. If you're spotting planes because you want to use them, the most important aspect of plane spotting is figuring out if the version of an old tool you are about to get has the right features.

For Stanley planes, Patrick Leach's Blood and Gore is the gold standard on the web.

For the anti-Stanley folks, here is a link to Miller's Falls plane info.

For Record planes, try these two sites: record-planes.com and recordhandplanes.com.

For an overview of wooden planes, including illustrations of just about every permutation of wooden planes, John Whelan's book is the way to go. If on the other hand, you want to get more information on the dates and manufacturer of a wooden plane you already own, then Guide To The Makers of American Wooden Planes (temporarily sold out) is the way to go.

We stock a reprint of several Norris Catalogs with come commentary by yours truly. On the web norrisplanes.com has loads of info.

This site, which has a ways to go, is a good place to start learning about Spiers models and planes.

I know I have missed a fair number of great sites, so let me know about any omissions and I will add them to the list.

started the new stone holder.......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 05/24/2017 - 12:56am
Today was mostly sunny but now that the day is almost done, it is turning more and more cloudy. According to the weather seers, this is the last sun we'll see until next week. Each day is neither forecasted to be cloudy or will rain with some days having both. As long as it doesn't rain in the shop I'll be a happy camper.

an oops
The beading plane veered off and I left a long divot here. Rather then replace it, I sanded it out as best I could. With the black frame it is hard to see and there is no mistaking the hand made look of this.

I'm so happy with this I could wet myself
The color came out deep and uniform on the entire frame.  One more coat of shellac and this will be done.

last rub down with 4-0 steel wool
At the top right, forward part of the frame you can see the divot. The shellac flour is highlighting it.

got my two inch hake brush
 The cabinet just has to be big enough to hang these vertically.
the proposed home of said cabinet
This is roughly 19 inches square but the cabinet won't be square. It has to be a minimum of 14" high for the brushes and I'm shooting for 16ishx12ish. It also might be made out of 1/2" plywood because I have several pieces of it hanging around the shop.

1/2 x 6 x24 poplar
I have about 1 1/2 inches to play with. With 1/4" back I'm down to about an inch. I would rather have a warm and fuzzy with the depth being 2" before the cabinet back. But that will be driven by how much projection I can have on the wall. I still have to walk by here and I don't want to have to do special dance steps to get from point A to point B.

first piece of scrap white oak
I want to make this holder out of white oak because it is going to get wet. This piece would probably work but I want the bottom of the stone to rest entirely on wood. I have another piece of white oak but it is rough sawn and I would have to 6 square it before I can make a stone holder with it.

found a bigger piece
This white oak was surprisingly easy to cross with the sash saw. I wasn't expecting it to be like this and the bonus is I got a relatively clean crosscut.

squared a reference edge with my new 5 1/2

I'll use the off cut to make the wedges
no twist
After I checked for twist, I smoothed this surface with the #3.

the plan
I'll make two dadoes at each end. The near end will be glued in place. With this design I don't need any side stops and I will be able to take and put the stone on the holder easily.

this end will get a dado for the two wedges
sawed the two walls for the bottom dado
I've been trying to use chisels more for this and this is a good opportunity to practice. Removed most of the waste with the 1/4 bench chisel and smoothed it to depth with the paring chisel.

did pretty good this time
wee bit tight
I did this purposely so I could get some practice with the side rabbet planes.

using the 4 1/2 to thin it
I still have a ways to go with the side rabbet planes. I was able to make some shavings but then I got nothing. The stop was still too tight to fit and that is why I used the 4 1/2.

fits snugly here but too tight on the near side
Took a few more swipes before there was joy in Mudville.

snug fit side to side
 The left side won't seat fully.

it is not rocking
It is rocking like I expecting but it is tapered. One end of the dado is higher than the other one.

the offending end
I got the groove to depth with the small router plane.

glued and cooking
One dado done and tomorrow I'll make the one for the wedges.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What does the word "amen" mean?
answer - so be it or let it be

Laying Out Dovetails with Christopher Schwarz

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 05/23/2017 - 8:30am

Look for new videos from Popular Woodworking every Tuesday on our YouTube channel and Thursday.  Cutting dovetails is a skill that many strive to master. It has become a right of passage for many woodworkers who are developing their hand tool skills. In their eagerness to get to the sawing, many beginning woodworkers rush through the layout process. Christopher Schwarz makes this often complicated process simple, using basic layout tools. Follow along […]

The post Laying Out Dovetails with Christopher Schwarz appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Festool Vecturo – A Knife for Wood

Highland Woodworking - Tue, 05/23/2017 - 7:00am

In the May 2017 issue of Festool Heaven, Jim Randolph shares a quick story on how his first use of the Festool Vecturo oscillating tool helped finish a challenging job quickly and easily.

I’d had my new Festool Vecturo for only 24 hours before I had a job for it…After several hours of clerical work, I was ready for some woodworking. A DIY job would be as close as I could get. When our plumber Terry assessed a job we asked him to do at the office, his first lament was that one of the framing members for this AC air-handler platform was right in the way of reaching the bathtub faucet inside this wall.

Our answer? “We can fix that!”

Click to read how Jim used his new Festool Vecturo for a quick and easy fix.

The post Festool Vecturo – A Knife for Wood appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

the rain is back.....

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 05/23/2017 - 12:58am
I thought april showers bring may flowers. It seems the rain and flowers, along with months, are on different schedules. We just had a couple of warm, humid,sunny days, and the forecast is for rain or cloudy skies right through memorial day weekend. And this after going through a week plus of the same crap. The temps are much cooler hanging out in the high 50's/low 60's which is perfect for me. I don't work wood outside so the cloudy or rainy stuff doesn't bother me. Except that I seemed to have gotten too fat and too slow to stay dry by running inbetween rain drops anymore.

time to see if anything stuck together
nothing stuck
Maybe the blue painters tape acts like waxed paper. I was expecting some tape to adhere to this seam. The epoxy is not quite flush with the top but being flush isn't critical here.

same thing on this side
I know some epoxy got on top of the metal insert because I saw it flow out on the edges onto the top. The tape didn't stick to it and the insert feels solid.

passed the tap test
I rapped this on the bench on both sides and it took it without whimpering.This is a very solid feeling repair.

it fits
As you can see I no longer have a zero clearance insert. For that matter I don't think it was ever a zero clearance insert. The only hiccup with this I can see is that I am closer to the blade on the left side than I remember it.

trying it again
I got a comment from Stephen on these and he said he used them with polish or rubbing compound to shine/clean metal. I tried it on the certificate frame and it didn't perform any better than it did on the bookshelf. I did have a thought that maybe I can use this to rub out the frame and bookshelf with wax. I will give that a try and see what shakes out with that.

For the rest of the week the frame and bookshelf will be sharing the #1 spot on the Workshop hit parade. I will slip in making a new stone holder sometime this week too. I've been thinking of something new with that.

step one with the bookshelf
The bookshelf feels like sandpaper. It is covered in dust nibs everywhere. I used the card scraper to remove them and flatten out the shellac at the same time.

small card scraper on the long grain edges
I have tried using the bigger card scraper on these thinner edges and I tend to scrape the outside edges and slightly bevel them. Still have that problem with the smaller one but not as frequently and it's usually because I am watching what I'm doing.

gave the 4-0 a good workout

this looks good
I think one more coat of 3lb shellac and this will be done. I'll bring this to the frame store this weekend.

I love the look of the back slats
I really like how the back slats seem to grow out of the sides. I got one 3lb coat on this but unlike the frame, this is going to get 4-6 coats before I'm done with it.

my hake brushes
I just ordered another one of these and it's coming via prime from Amazon. I would like to make a box to keep the 3 of them in it but maybe this time I'll go crazy and do something different. I keep them in the powered router cabinet now but I would like something better. Instead of a box I am thinking of making a shallow cabinet to keep the brushes and the shellac cans in. The main point of the cabinet will be to allow the brushes to hang vertically so everything else will be designed around that.

solid wood is my first choice
Adding extra storage for the shellac cans was an after thought  The spot I want to put this cabinet won't work if it is much deeper that 5-6 inches. I'm also restricted in the height and width but this is something that will have to wait until the weekend or beyond.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What do J.C. Penny's initials stand for?
answer - James Cash

Wood-sample collection chest 4 – carvings for front and side panels completed

autumndoucet - Mon, 05/22/2017 - 10:18pm

Working on the front panel

With the front panel redesigned to be flatter and less delicate in order to accommodate a drop-front on the chest, carving commenced. I picked a piece of mahogany because I liked its color, and I’ve struggled ever since with changing grain direction.  Every quarter inch or so, the direction takes a reverse turn, and I’ve learned a lot about wood selection and reading the grain for carving. It’s been a challenge, but I finally finished the front and two side panels. I’m going to take a break from carving and build the chest, leaving the top panel for last.

Handworks 2017 – Day 0, Festhalle

The Barn on White Run - Mon, 05/22/2017 - 6:44pm

Thursday was the time or setting up at Handworks, and we were one of the first arrivals at the site.  That let me get set up and explore the five venues for this bestest toolapalooza ever.

Slowly but surely the exhibitors began rolling in, beginning with my immediate neighbors Jeff Hamilton, maker of marking gauges whose spot was in between me and Lie-Nielson, and planemaker Gary Blum.

Directly adjacent to me across he aisle on one side were plane maker Matt Bickford and the Tools for Working Woods folks.

Across the other aisle was the temptation provided by vintage tool maven Patrick Leach.  Much to my own astonishment I managed to avoid the siren song from this booth the entire weekend (admittedly at this point in life my tool needs are modest.)

Directly further up the Festhalle center row was printer and designer Wesley Tanner, the award winning collaborator for both Roubo books and the Studley book.

Along the barn side with Matt Bickford was a booth shared by Konrad Sauer and Raney Nelson, and immediately past them was Lost Art Press/Crucible Tools.

Then came our hosts, Benchcrafted vises and such.

Up in the far corner was designer and furniture maker Jeff Miller, who unfortunately occupied the coldest space in the building.  I know, because it is where I was four years ago.

Working down the other outside wall we have Hock blades and precision maven Chris Vesper from Australia, followed by Blue Spruce Tools and David Barron.

The other end of the center row from me included plane maker Ron Brese, tuning up a tool for the masses tomorrow, jig maestro Tico Vogt, and Czeck Edge Tools.

At either end of the hall were the large footprints of Lee Valley Tools and Lie-Nielson Tools.  These anchors to the tool-mall guaranteed a spectacular experience for the hordes on Friday and Saturday.

By the end of the day we were all set up, ready for the onslaught in the morning.

18th Century Beeswax Wood Finishing with a French Polissoir (Don Williams Workshop Tour Part 4)

Wood and Shop - Mon, 05/22/2017 - 10:54am
By Joshua Farnsworth In part four of the above video workshop tour, Don Williams teaches how to use a French Polissoir with a beeswax wood polish to create an incredible 18th century historic furniture wood finish. WHAT IS A FRENCH "POLISSOIR"? A polissoir (polisher) is essentially straw broom bristles tightly bound together with string. You

My second commission – part 10

Je ne sai quoi Woodworking - Mon, 05/22/2017 - 5:35am


My dear reader, I would like to apologise for my extended absence from the wonder world of virtual woodworking via the internet. You would find the reasons quite boring so let’s not waste any time nor effort ruminating on such drivel. This instalment of an apparently mammoth series will concern itself with the addition of the third and final layer of the so-called trapezoid leg. You can find earlier posts in this series here.

Seeing that the third layer would ultimately close up the internal workings of the whole construction, I took the opportunity to unscrew the second layer’s three ‘cross members’ (for lack of a better term). As you should be able to observe in the photos below, the old school mild steel wood screws received a coat of beeswax. This was accomplished by melting a block of wax in a small tin containing these traditional fasteners. The idea with this is that the wax should reduce the effort required to seat the screws and at the same time providing a layer that would resist future corrosion.

The screws were then seated after the surfaces that is supposed to be able to slide ever so slightly with the changes in ambient humidity over the years, were rubbed with beeswax. Whether this is useful (or possibly the opposite) I do not know, but I tried it anyway. Therefore I would urge you to ask someone who knows before following suite. Maybe some of our more experienced and properly trained cadres could assist in the matter.

Seeing that the plan was to fix the third and final layer using panel pins I had to fashion a custom punch to seat the nails below the surface of the wood. A short section of a round file which I picked up somewhere served perfectly well for this purpose. It was shaped carefully (not to take the temper out of the hardened steel) on a bench grinder to fit the head of the panel pin to a T. There are some picks further down to show the business end of my new redneck punch.

As is so common here in Africa, I also had to modify the panel pins somewhat to serve my purpose. In order to allow layer one and two to be able to move relative to each other, these panel pins had to stop short of layer one. In other words they should only fix layer three to the cross members of layer two. That was accomplished by snipping off the required amount, followed by resharpening on the bench grinder.

The two Kershout strips were fitted first, as they needed to be absolutely spot on given the fact that they mirror the spindles of the so-called Windsor leg. Kershout seems to enjoy spending time off  the Janka hardness charts (literally and figuratively) so it hard to say where it rates in comparison to better known species, but let’s just say it tends to take exception when a nail wants to upset it’s feng shui. For that reason I had to drill shank holes for each panel pin, which allowed the shank through and only caught the slightly wider head. This way the panel pins were more inclined to retain it’s linear configuration and the Kershout refrained from flexing it’s muscles.

As discussed in earlier posts, the third layer only needs to add another 8 mm for the trapezoid leg to reach it’s intended thickness of 44 mm. Therefore I decided to challenge my new bandsaw with fairly wide re-sawing in very hard Witpeer. Of course that also allowed me to introduce visual interest by means of a book-matched arrangement of the various pieces.

In order to do that I needed one flat, square and twist-free face side and face edge.

The resultant 8 mm stock were then fitted from the centre of the leg towards the outside. I again used the hitherto unproven technique of rubbing beeswax on the surfaces that is supposed to be able to slide.

I used a no. 78 and a no. 10 Stanley rabbet plane to cut the rabbets that hides the space allowed for movement.

The book-matched pattern is already vaguely apparent.

All the sides were then worked flush.

By hand plane along the grain …

… and by track saw followed by hand plane across the grain.

The small cavities created by seating the panel pins below the surface of the wood were filled with a concoction conjured up by mixing very fine wood dust (of the same wood of course) and epoxy.

Once the elixir had time to set I did a preliminary round of surface preparation.

As you can see the book-matched pattern is starting to emerge nicely. Once it receives oil it should be positively stunning.

Even the opposite side is starting to display a certain je ne sais quoi.

The edges were then treated to some hand beading to hide the laminations.

As you can see it worked a charm.

In our next instalment we will move on to laminating the various boards that was chosen (many moons ago) for the top.

Spoon carving workshop in Wales

Steve Tomlin Crafts - Mon, 05/22/2017 - 4:45am
Spoon carving starts with a log and continues with sharp tools and concentration. Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

relaxing weekend.......

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 05/22/2017 - 12:29am
I slowed down a lot, for me anyways, this weekend. I still have a lot of things on my A+ list to get done but I am not going to obsess about checking every item off in one day. I only checked one thing off the list today and played with a few others but that was it. I am going to tic off a lot of the little things and the big ones will have to wait. I have a lot of maintenance things I need to attend to and cross off the list before the bookcase or stand up desk gets made.

took it apart to try and salvage it

part of a chinese oak stair tread
The top and bottom has a thick veneer of oak cross banded in the middle with another wood (?). I got it at Home Depot 3-4 years ago and I still have a few pieces kicking around in the shop.

X marks the high corners
the other side isn't twisted
But it does have a hump in the middle. I was going to try and salvage this but after seeing this, it is toast. I'll have to make another one of these quick because I don't have a holder for the coarsest diamond stone.

miter box saw
The bottom edge of the spine was ragged out a bit. It drew blood when I ran my finger tip along it. I filed this going straight across the spine on a diagonal trying to avoid filing the whole width. I just wanted to file the bottom edge corner.

wasn't 100% successful with that
This side of the spine was worse than the other side.

the spine bottom will ride on top of these
the arm's pivot circle
This is scored some in a couple of spots around the diameter. I lightly sanded it with a wooden block and 320 grit sandpaper just to remove the burrs.

the table pivot point
I don't know if there was any grease on this because Phil did an awesome job of rehabbing this. The pivot point on my 358 was packed with grease. This diameter has signs of scoring too but I don't know if there is any binding yet. I haven't attached the arm yet to check that out.

the legs don't lie flat
they don't lay flat on all four points
I can get 3 points down with this one up. If I put this one down, two points are off the bench. I'll have to take these off and even them up somehow.

made a Wally World run
The stripper is for wood and metal and it is the first time I've seen one come in a rattle can. The primer and gloss black are for the #2 plane body. The Red 'N' Tacky I've never heard of. I was looking for a smaller tube of grease but the selection at Wally World was a bit on the lean side. I picked this one because it says on the tube that it is good for sliding parts. I'll be using this grease on the miter box pivot point.

the bottom of the spine
This is the part of the spine that rides on the round bearings at the top of the saw posts. It looks like it hasn't been an entirely smooth ride for this saw. The scallops came from my 358 miter box and not this one. I can file them flattish but it is going to take a while. Not something I want to do today so I'll do a little each day until I get it done.

the one thing I checked off the A+ list
My main focus today was working on the kitchen. Like I did last weekend, I did a little on the kitchen, took a break, did a little bit in the shop, and started the cycle all over again.

I'm going to put a piece of metal in this pie shaped indentation to strengthen it. I don't want to rely solely on the epoxy holding this together.

first step is to make a rubbing of the metal piece

step 2 - glue it to the donor
step 3 - file the outline
step 4 - the filing will guide the cutoff wheel
roughly done

This thing was hot when I got done. How do I know this? Because I'm the idiot who tried to pick it up right after I got done cutting it out. I threw it in some water to cool it down so I could handle it.

wee bit too fat
I thought that this was going to fit off the dremel. I had cut the rubbing out on the inside of the lines but it wasn't enough.

a little filing and checking batted next
pretty good fit
This part of the insert doesn't touch on anything. It is out in the air so I don't have to worry about it effecting the fit.

ready to epoxy in place
I sanded the side of the insert being epoxied and cleaned it with mineral spirits before I did that.

backside of the coarsest diamond stone
I'm using this because it is flat and convenient. I don't need the insert ending up in a vee either in or out.

cooking until tomorrow
I have gotten a few comments about trying synthetic steel wool and I finally got some. I got a two pack of 4-0 and I'll compare it to my metal 4-0 steel wool.

used it on this end
I didn't get a lot of feed back from using this. This seemed to be gliding over the wood without 'sanding'. And it still felt rough after I went over the whole end. The pad didn't show hardly any wear or use and there wasn't any shellac flour neither.

the real stuff
I could not only feel the steel wool cutting, I could see it to. This made a lot of shellac flour and the surface was considerably smoother to the touch than the white stuff. The steel wool pad looks used also.

tried it on the long grain edge
against steel wool on the other long edge edge
The synthetic stuff was a bit better on this test. It didn't generate any shellac flour but there was a hint of this being a bit smoother.  I still give the edge to the real stuff. It was smoother to the touch and there was shellac flour to see.

results weren't any better on the poplar
the winner is the real stuff
The 4-0 real steel wool is a much better performer than the synthetic stuff.  This cuts, smooths and although it leaves tiny metal bits behind, I'll continue to use it. Using a vacuum cleaner afterwards is a part of using it.

the loser
This is good idea but it didn't perform anywhere near as well as the metal steel wool does. It didn't generate any dust nor did it seem to knock down and smooth the shellac. I was a bit disappointed in it but maybe the 4-0 is too fine for sanding inbetween coats on the shellac. It doesn't matter because I'll keep on using the metal stuff.

four coats of 1 lb cut on the certificate frame
4 coats on the end tops too
The clock fits with 1 1/8" to spare. It looks funny having the clock up that high so this may change. But my wife is happy with the plate rail and that is all that matters to me.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many people have won the Grand Slam in golf?
answer - Bobby Jones did it 1930 (before the Masters) Tiger Woods held all four titles in a row but not in the same calendar year

Nuts and saddles

Finely Strung - Sun, 05/21/2017 - 8:43am

Stewart-MacDonald has been sending me emails recently about a device which allows guitar makers to adjust the height of a guitar nut or saddle while keeping the underside both square and straight (item # 4047 in the StewMac catalogue). Here’s a picture.

I thought that this was rather a good idea.  Although it’s not especially difficult to adjust a nut or a saddle by hand with a file, it’s a tedious job and often takes a while. And the reviews on the StewMac website were positive, saying how quick and accurate the device was.

The drawback is that it’s quite expensive.  By the time I’d paid  shipping and import duty, buying one would probably cost around  $200.   So, I decided to make one for myself.

The body is a length of aluminium bar, 15mm x 30mm, drilled at each end to take an axle that carries miniature ball bearings.

Used with a sheet of P280 sandpaper on a flat surface, it worked quickly and accurately.

As I hope you will be able to see from the photographs, it’s not difficult to make, although you will need access to a drill press and a small lathe. The materials needed (aluminium bar and four miniature ball bearings) are easily available and cheap.

Mine took a bit longer to construct than it should have done because I drilled the holes for the axles too low, which meant that the body of the device ended up too far above the sanding surface. So I had to bush the holes and re-drill. If you’re making one, I’d recommend positioning the axle to give a gap of no more than 2mm between the bottom of the device and the sanding surface.

heat wave broke.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 05/21/2017 - 3:07am
It was noticeably cooler today. Sunny and breezy, but no heat and no humidity.  The temp was higher than what the forecaster predicted though. They said 67F/20C as their high and my porch thermometer read 77.4F/25C at 1800. Still much better then temps in 90's.

I didn't sleep very well last night. The peepers failed open at 0130 and I after an hour of trying to fall back to sleep, I got up. I wasn't going to work OT today but it was way too early to be in the shop so I went to work. I planned on only doing 3 hours but I did 6. We were taught a new way to scan certain documents into the system and today was my first time doing them solo. I got into a rhythm with it and when I came up for air I had already put in over 5 hours. I stayed to round it out to 6 and left then.

had to sweep the deck
Besides having shavings all over the shop, I also have crap spread out on every single horizontal surface. There is so much crap in built up piles that I can't find anything. The shavings I can walk on and ignore but the piles I can't. This is just the tip of the iceberg and I have unseen problems that are below the waterline.

What brought out the cleaning bug was me looking for something buried somewhere in the shop. As I was looking for that, I realized that I have way too many irons in the fire. I stopped counting after 7 and I could have probably gotten into double digits on just my immediate to do list. Granted some are quickies like setting the shavings on the 5 1/2, but picking the first one to do was giving me a headache.

Priority #1 I decided was me taking a day of rest. Getting up 4 hours before oh dark thirty was catching up to me and it wasn't even lunchtime yet. First batter was doing a leisurely sweep down of the shop which took until the early afternoon.

I boxed up the #2 and set it aside for now. Most of it is done but what is left will eat up a lot of calories and time. I have to strip and paint the plane body and I'm thinking of refinishing the tote and knob also. I've done everything else to the plane and I might as well do that to complete it.

the cause
These are the 14" keyboard slides and I was looking for the 12" ones. Like an idiot I was going to go to Lowes and buy some pine to make a second stand up desk for me for work. I figured I could squeeze it in with no problems.  I came to my senses when I couldn't find the 12" glides. I'll clean what is on my plate first and then start that.

WTF is it?
Have you ever made something and saved it only to find it later? When you see it you give it your best goofiest look but have absolutely no clue as to what it is, what it was used for, or why you made it? A specialized shooting board? Part A of the better mouse trap? A salami slicer and dicer?

this didn't help
This is probably meant to be held in a vise. I thought I would be aha moment after seeing this but it is still a mystery to me. No light bulbs coming on and I have no memory of this at all. Nada, zippo, zilch, all I see is the big black abyss of nothingness.

last thing I did and found
I was cleaning the table off by the bandsaw and the 12" glides were buried there. I'll leave them on the workbench until I use them.

largest Ashley Iles chisels
I added these back to the list. I did not sharpen these correctly the last time I did them. I have shiny bevels with flats on the very edge.  I would bet a kidney that I didn't check for a burr when I sharpened them. The 2" one I would like to have to use needs the most work. I'll be doing these on the 80 grit runway.  Then I will have to find a new home for  them. With them being in a box I tend to forget about them. And the box is usually buried somewhere and hidden from view.

ditto with the Buck Bros
I got these paring chisels when I first started out buying woodworking tools in the late 70's. The same story applies here as the Ashley Iles. Maybe I can combine the two together in one box?

31 year old delta 14" bandsaw insert
failed the bounce test with Mr Concrete floor a long time ago
This has been broken for over ten years and I've been limping along with it. Every once in a while I search the web for one and come up dry. There are plastic ones but I want another metal one like this. The plan is to use my west system epoxy  to glue it back together and see if I limp along for another 20 years with it.

had to make something today
I am using the big stone and stropping board holder to make this one.

the former one was here
I kept that one in the vise and ate up a lot of real estate on this corner of the sharpening bench. When I first made it I used in on the woodworking bench. I never bothered to make a new one when I made the sharpening bench.

ugly finger divot hole
I always clean my stones after every use. This isn't pretty but it does work. I also didn't run the two sides from the top to the bottom but left a space on both sides at the top.

just enough to get my finger underneath it

it's toast
It is twisted and rocking slightly even in the vise. Something that is not a good thing to have in a sharpening stone. I'll toss this and make another one tomorrow.

Grace saw nut screwdriver
This screwdriver fits the saw nuts on every saw I own but I had not checked it on the this miter box saw. I wasn't disappointed and I was able to take out all four nuts. The nuts will be getting a Bar Keeps bath later on.

easier to clean sans the handle
The plate is pretty clean but the spine has a lot of dings and sharp points on the edges along it's length on both sides. The saw was used and shows signs of some abuse but the tooth line is pristine almost. Maybe all the dings came from storage or banging around in a toolbox.

Along with doing the saw I will have to get some grease for the pivot on the miter box. It doesn't look like it had much grease in it as there is some scoring on both seats.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How much does the skeleton of an average 160 pound human weigh?
answer - about 30 pounds


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