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General Woodworking

Ripple Finale

The Barn on White Run - 2 hours 6 min ago

Our last two days of Ripplemania 1 were spent in trying to fine tune the older machine into a real working tool, and tinkering with the design for the new one into a working device.

While John and Travis and I were fiddling with the new machine, Sharon was trying out the new cutter on the old machine.  She was able to raise a huge pile of shavings, but the wear between the pattern rail and the follower bar (the rod protruding from the cutter head in order to allow the latter to rise up and down, cutting the ripple pattern in the work piece) was getting too bad to bring about a satisfactory result.

Meanwhile we were trying to perfect the carriage and cutter head for the new machine.  In the end we got to within an eyelash of getting a ripple molding to completion, but we definitely had “proof of concept.”

John and Travis fabricated a carriage that was compatible with ripple patterns (up and down), wave patterns (sideways motion), and even a simultaneous ripple/wave action.

In order to test the carriage and cutterhead, we had to have a pattern to work with, so I dove into that undertaking.  I was rethinking the need for a metal pattern rail in favor of a wooden one, so I began by assembling a long rail sandwich consisting of southern yellow pine on its length as the outer laminae to serve as the backing for the pattern and bearing surface, with end grain black cherry as the contact surface.

With the pattern rail sandwich assembled it was time to cut the ripple chatter pattern into the rail.  Using half round rasps, floats, and carving gouges we were able to create several feet of pattern on the blank sandwich.

I ripped the sandwich on the table saw, resulting in a matched pair  to install on either side of the box to induce the pattern on the workpiece via the undulating cutter head.  (I will certainly give it a try to have a CNC machine create any new pattern rails).

With the pattern installed, we gave it a try.  It sure looked like it was working, but still we had some hurdles to jump in order to make it a reliable high-function machine.  Cranking it by hand was interminably slow even though the movement at the point of cutting was fine.  We decided to motorize the device to take it to the next level so we attached a motor to a stool and hung a belt around the motor shaft and the pulley we made for the drive screw on the machine.  The motion was certainly accelerated without any obvious loss of performance, although there was the issue of an unprotected motor and belt drive.

Travis demanded a protective cowl for the drive unit, so he installed one.  We found this to be much safer.

Like I said earlier, in the end we came within an eyelash (or a half day) of getting the new machine to operate with efficacy.  Given my continued and growing interest in the capacity to produce ripple moldings for clients I will certainly expend more energy to make it happen.

Moe Follansbee knew what’s what

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - 6 hours 40 min ago

Over two months ago, I lost my everyday knife. I looked everywhere and came up empty. I decided it either broke off the strap, and fell, or got dropped into a bag of shavings & went the way of all things. I have lots of slojd knives – so I could keep carving spoons without any discomfort. But usually I like wearing one for everyday use. I finally gave up looking, and ordered some new blades.   I tried to be positive about it, thinking maybe someone found what would become a really good knife for them.

everyday sloydbefore it was lost

I had the blade since about 1992, it was on its 2nd handle. (I split the first one using the knife like a little froe). When I replaced the handle, I made the sheath. That was about 12 years ago. A friend at the museum made the leather work. Once the new blades arrived, I made a new knife and sheath. It was OK, but not the same.  This one, I tried my hand at the leather, but for one thing my model was gone! Here I am boring out the blank for the handle, to fit the knife’s tang.

Paring the new handle.

here is the end result, works fine. But doesn’t feel right one way or another. The leather I used was too thick for one thing, so it didn’t conform quite as well as I wished. Handle is the only piece of boxwood I had. Why did I try that?

Here’s the knife out of the sheath. It works, I was carving spoons yesterday with it. Clicks into the sheath like it’s supposed to do. I was thinking I’d do it over at some point, but things are getting busy around here right about now. 

Today I was sorting & cleaning inside & out. In the shop, it came time to climb up & hang this year’s Greenwood Fest poster. I’m not a huge poster fan, but Greenwood Fest is a pretty special affair for me, so up it went. Right above last year’s version. While I was there, I grabbed that basket for the tools & materials in it. I made some basket rims & handles from the hickory I wrote about last time, and this week I’ll install them. Needed the clips and other bits in there.


And don’t you know – in the basket was my old knife. Made a good day a great one.

It’s always the last place you look, my father used to say.

made a new tool.......

Accidental Woodworker - 17 hours 41 min ago
I am not someone who revels in making their own tools. I would much rather buy a tool I need but sometimes you don't have that choice. Especially so when you are in the middle of building something and you are dead in the water because of a lack of a specific tool. I came close to that today but in my case I made a tool to replace a manufactured one. It wasn't planned and it was driven strictly by not liking how the manufactured one was working.

there was a bench underneath all the crappola
It took me about 6 minutes to clear off the sharpening bench. I needed access to the stones so I could sharpen the 2" chisel I need to chisel the miters on the bookcase frame. Most of the crap on here ended up on the nearest horizontal surface which happened to be the tablesaw.

trying out my 8000 grit Japanese stone
A couple of spritzs of water to use the nagura stone to make a slurry. On my last 8K japanese stone I didn't use the nagura stone. I didn't have any problems with not using it and I may start it here too. I'll use it until I get used to the stone and get a feel for it's character.

flattened it
The chisel did not feel like it was flat on the stone. Looking at the bevel, I could see there was hollow spot so I stopped and flattened the stone. I assumed it was flat but after a few strokes, I could see it wasn't.

looks ok
This new stone is a bit softer than my old one. It will take a while to get used to it. I'm also not sure about the shine on the bevel. I haven't sharpened and honed this chisel much so I don't have much history to remember on it. I do like the extra width of the stone a lot. The new stone is almost 3/4" wider than the old one.

chisel is ready but this isn't
The template is shifting as I tighten the vise with the template rolling inboard. This is aggravating because it will effect the face of the miter and possibly cause gaps.

appears to be square
There isn't a lot of meat to register against the square but it lined up square end to end. The template isn't the cause of the rolling.

it was the small rabbets
I made these so they were half lapped so to speak with the miter template. A few shavings off of each and there is no more contact with the template on the ends of this filler.

No more rolling inboard and the gap is gone at the top between the template and the filler.

chiseling away at 45°
pretty good
Not perfect, but acceptable for a painted joint.

I trimmed this miter with the template
I didn't have to trim this because I already did it on the shooting board. I wanted to try out the template on this part of the frame too. I ended up trimming it back too much. The toe of the miter extends past the quirk. The miter toe on this one has to end at the quirk to mate and line up with the other miter.

now it is where it should be
a little better fitting
now that is a gap
I lost a bit over an 1/8" playing with both of the miters. The goal with this practice was to first get the miters to fit. Secondly, was the flat and I hope I'm not going to shoot myself in the foot and saying I'm good on that part.

right side is gappy
This is where I found out I was displeased with the manufactured template. Even with the 2" chisel it was not easy maintaining registration on the templates two edges.

thin edges
Try as I might I couldn't get any feedback that I was flat on these two edges. Even when I pushed down on the chisel at the bevel, I still had some uncertainties.

chewed up a little
These I could feel and they were a minor distraction. There wasn't a smooth, fluid motion with the chisel as I swept it across these two edges.

new miter template stock
My first choice was 1/2 maple but that would have required secured two pieces somehow to each other at 90°. I didn't want to wait for that to set up. Choice #2 was european beech but it wasn't thick enough at only 7/8" thick. The rabbet I wanted to make in it would make it too thin for the 3/4" frame stock thickness. The winner was a big chunk of ash. It is over 1 1/4" thick and the rabbet in it will be able to cover the 3/4" frame.

rift sawn at this end
This will up the stability of the template but even if it wasn't, I feel comfortable using this wood. I have had it hanging out in the shop for a couple of years. Hopefully it won't do any stupid wood tricks when I finish making it.

got my 45 laid out
I chiseled my saw wall on the face and I concentrated on sawing directly down on this corner.

I've got a good feeling about this
Just by looking at this I can see that the plumb looks goods but I'm not sure of the 45°. I did have the saw wall and I didn't deviate from that.

the opposite face that was down
Just a little bit of the knife line still visible here. On the rest of it I can barely make it out.

pretty good on the top too
I am feeling like I should pat myself on the back. This is the absolute best miter I have ever done to date. Nothing else even comes close and I still have to check it with a combo square.

This is damn good for me. Wow again. I feel almost like Paul Sellers and his nonchalant sawing of miters. This is the face that was down and although it isn't making 100% contact, this is still impressing me a lot.

the other face
It doesn't get any better than this. This face side is almost perfect. For the Jackie Gleason fans, "....how sweet it is......".

the first step
The opposite side of the face I sawed was a bit high and the sawn face wasn't square to the side. A couple of swipes and all was well in Disneyland.

one teeny hump in the middle to remove
The hump was done with the chisel. It took 3 dance steps but I finally got rid of it.

problem with the new miter template
The space between the bead and the template is going to bite me on the buttocks.

it's rolling outboard
I knew this was too good to be true. This template is too small for the stock. If the outside leg extended down more, this might not be happening. Time to see if I can repeat this in a larger size.

sawing the 45 first
 On the first one I sawed out the blank and then sawed the miter. It was a bit difficult sawing it out due to it's small size. On this one I am sawing the 45 first and then I'll saw out the blank.

two strokes and I was through
And no, I didn't leave any saw marks on the workbench.

squared the sides to the face
I didn't check the 45 yet because I wanted to saw out the rabbet first. That would leave me with less meat to make into a 45°. When I did check it, I was off 45 by a couple of degrees. I think I did that when I planed the face square. It took me a lot of time and fussing to get this angle to 45°. I would plane and check, plane and check. Swear, curse, and threaten it with bodily harm and plane and check it some more. After leaving this twice and coming back to it, I finally got the miter to equal 45°. Personally, I think it was the threat of flying lessons that sealed the deal.

no rolling and no gaps
much better
This is a 23 bazillion percent improvement over the metal miter template. The two registration edges on my homemade template are much broader and larger. All that extra real estate translates into a steadier chisel and a warm and fuzzy having rock steady faces to swing the chisel on.

one small and one big
I ended up with a right and left hand miter template and I didn't plan it that way. I would rather both being the same but I can see the advantage of having both. These weren't that hard to make and if the need comes up, I can easily make another one. I have a lot of the ash hanging out in the shop.

my stash of good brushes
This is where I keep my brushes and all of them are labeled as to what they are used for. Most of them are for latex with one for oil paint and another for oil based poly. I wanted a brush for water based poly but I didn't have one. I am sure I had one but my wife knows of this stash and I'm sure she wouldn't check what it was labeled. Not that I'm saying she took it.

roll back brushes from Wally World
I always try to buy the best brush I can. If you clean them and take care of them, they will last forever. Most of the brushes in my stash are 15-20 years old and I still have the 4" brush I last used to help my father paint a house with. These were the best that Wally World had and they were on sale. I would rather have a 2 1/2" brush but the 3" will do. 2 1/2" brushes fit in quart cans and 3" brushes are better suited for gallon cans.

I had wanted to get the poly on the bookcase and the shelves today but it didn't happen. I painted the shelves, again. This time it was to paint over the layout lines for the shelf pin sockets. It is a definite, as firm as unset Jello, that I will get one coat of poly on it tomorrow.

almost done
I still have chisels that I thought I had sharpened and honed but hadn't. I started to sharpen this one and the right side of the bevel has a hollow. The smallest one in the box has a flat on the end of the bevel. It is shiny and bright and looks sharp but it probably would not cut wet cardboard. Something I that will definitely maybe pick back up tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is duende?
answer - the power to attract through personal magnetism and charm

a different miter practice.....

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 06/24/2017 - 1:25am
Today was hot and humid. Both of these happening together make me a miserable SOB to be around if I'm not in an AC space. As I am typing up this blog post, the skies are turning gray because there is supposed to be a line of thunder boomers rolling through. And those are forecasted to last into tomorrow morning. After the wet stuff leaves, the H&H is coming back. Sunday is going to be toasty with a predicted temp of 90°F+ (32°C+)along with high humidity.

I do have some good news. Amazon shot an email to me saying I'll be getting my camera on July 3rd. They haven't taken the money yet so I'm not sure that they haven't gotten them yet neither. I am having it delivered to my wife's work place. There is always someone there to sign for it. And if they won't sign for it, they can call my wife to come do it.  This way I don't have to worry about someone stealing it if it is left on the stoop.

prepping some practice stock
Miters aren't in my top ten joints I like to do. I am slowly getting better doing them and I have a special miter to practice here. This one is mitering a beaded frame so the bead runs continuously around the bookcase. I need to square and straighten out the stock first.

two long pieces of practice stock
These two pieces are the same width as the frame parts I am using on the bookcase.

slight rabbet on the side
Matt from the tiny workshop blog here recently did an awesome job of documenting rehabbing a beading plane. After reading that I knew what was causing this tiny rabbet here.

the iron needs work
I thought I had the iron profile set pretty good and matching the bed profile. According to Matt the rabbet is caused by the left side of the iron being proud of the bed. It should fade away into the bed profile and not be proud of it. I'll be fixing this and copying Matt step by step when I do. For now I'll just sand this little bit off.

what are the odds?
I didn't bother to make square lines on the practice parts I sawed out. I just made a tic mark for the length and sawed them out. All four saw cuts are plumb and square. If I had made square lines to saw on I probably would have gotten toast.

the 3 practice pieces
I want to practice making  both the right and left side joints on the frame. The left one is easy to do as it naturally allows me to use the dominant right hand. On the right I'll have to rely mostly on my left hand.

quick outing on the shooting board
Since the ends were sawn square, all I had to do here was shoot the edges clean and smooth.

back up practice stock for just in case
marking the miters on the side frame
My last time doing this I tried to mark the miter on the front beaded side. That didn't work too good and I couldn't tell where the toe of the miter was because of the molded edge. I am running the miter from the back onto the front bottom.

marking gauge line
This is all I need on the top. The marking gauge line is the top or heel of the miter and I'll use it to set the chisel into it to set the miter template before I chop the miter.

miter laid out on the face
I need to have some idea of where the miter face will run so that when I saw this face I don't saw to deep. I will be sawing the waste from both sides. On the back the miter face is easy to see because there isn't a bead and a quirk in the way. I will be sawing in the quirk and I can see where the miter face is, I don't need to know where it is on the beaded portion.

the vise action is still working
the top one is easy to do
I rough cut the miters just before the back wall of the quirk. I will plane to that on the shooting board.

one easy and one not so easy
This one was done 1-2-3. The other one took a bit of fussing to do. I would shoot and check and kept at that until the toe of the miter hit the back wall of the quirk.

second marking gauge line
I ran the second line to the middle-ish of the quirk. The saw will remove the bulk of the waste and once I have the miter chiseled, I will square up and level it down to the quirk bottom.

most of the waste is sawn off
I need to spend some calories on the sharpening stones
I was going to stop here and pick this up tomorrow but I couldn't wait.

I should have waited
Ugly looking miter even if you look at it with one eye closed and the other one half open.

this miter is dead nuts 45°
The other one is less than 45°.

why this miter is toast
I knew that I shouldn't have used this 1 inch chisel because I already found out it was too small. Like an idiot, I thought I could use it because I knew it's shortcoming. That knowledge obviously didn't help. Look at the right bottom corner of the chisel. It is off the edge of the miter template and digging into the miter making it less than 45. The chisel needs to be on both the top and side edges at all times. The one inch chisel is too narrow to do that.

this is must
If the chisel isn't on both edges of the template, it is no longer being cut at 45°.

got the flat done good

flush at the top
Both heels on the miters are correct in that they are dead nuts on the marking gauge line. The heels govern the flush at the top. I think I am ready to do these miters now that I know being impatient will bite me on the ass. I will still do the practice joints before I commit to the real thing.

I won these
I saw these on Josh's tool site (Hyperkitten tools) and I didn't get them The next day they were still there which surprised me. I thought that Josh would be writing emails forever explaining that they were already sold to unlucky ones asking for them. This time I bought them. Josh said that these are from the 1960's based on no UPC barcode being on the package. I have a Stanley pump drill that takes these but I bought them to see if they will fit my North Bros. drill. I lost the 5/32" bit for it. The 5/32 bit is the size to drill holes for knobs and handles. I'll check it out tomorrow if I don't forget I have them.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How are seedless oranges propagated?
answer - by grafting because the original seedless orange was a mutant

Book Giveaway: Making Wooden Toys

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 06/23/2017 - 9:00am
Wooden Toys

It’s time for another book giveaway! This week I’m giving away a book on making wooden toys: “Making Classic Wooden Toys: 21 Step-by-Step Projects.” Who hasn’t at some point been inspired by a kindly yet mischievous woodworker who gave them a mysterious wooden puzzle and challenged them to figure it out? These days I have my suspicions whether some of the “puzzles” my own grandfather handed me actually could be solved […]

The post Book Giveaway: Making Wooden Toys appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

A Coffee Tragedy: Turning a Lid

Highland Woodworking - Fri, 06/23/2017 - 7:00am

This article first appeared in the December 2013 issue of The Highland Woodturner.

There was an accident involving a ceramic coffee container, which was a gift from my in-laws. More specifically, I accidentally dropped and shattered the lid of the container. After pondering this tragic accident, I realized I could turn a replacement lid.

CLICK HERE to read Curtis’s lid-turning process

CLICK HERE to take a look at the Highland Woodturner Archives

The post A Coffee Tragedy: Turning a Lid appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Ray Iles iron follow up.......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 06/23/2017 - 12:52am
I got asked a few questions about the Ray Iles replacement Iron I got for my Stanley 5 1/2. I briefly went over it in yesterday's blog and today I'll try to address what I was asked and what I think I should add.

First off I would buy another of these in a heart beat even though I only have one days worth of experience with them. I've got other replacement Stanley irons, one from Hock and another from tools from Japan. The Hock is an excellent iron. Good steel, takes and holds a good edge, but it is thicker than the original Stanley as is the one from Japan. The Japanese one I haven't tried yet but I expect it to rival the Hock iron.

Let me get this out before I go any further. I am not a plane iron expert nor an expert in metallurgy. This is just my opinion on a subject, right, wrong, or indifferent. For well over one hundred years Stanley made plane irons thin. I have yet to read anything saying that thin irons are prone to chattering. It is my belief that thin irons are/were more difficult to make from what I have read on the process of making them. The thinness while hardening them could cause  them to warp. Stanley must have found a way to control it because they made boatload after boatload of these irons. Thicker irons don't have the warping tendencies that thinner iron do.

And this is my big opinion on why thicker irons came into use. It was because they were easier to manufacture. Now that they were saving money in the manufacturing costs they had to justify why they were selling thicker irons. This is where the marketing gurus came up with the thicker irons don't chatter BS.

I will always go with thin because of my opinion on thick vs thin,. The couple of times I recall (a bazillion moons ago when I was belly button high to a 7 foot cigar store indian) getting chatter was because I had the iron set too deep. It wasn't because it was thin. It was operator error.

Ray Iles spare iron for the 5 1/2
If I can not find original Stanley irons I'll get a Ray Iles. I have at least two irons for all my planes and some I have 3 of. The 5 1/2 iron is a hard one to find OEM or in the wild. I found one for $80 but I didn't buy it and I'm glad I didn't.

it isn't square
I tried to set the chipbreaker flush with the sides of the iron and noticed the end wasn't square to the iron. It is a wee bit OTL (out to lunch). It is low on the right and rising slightly up on the left.

see the out of square
The chipbreaker is flush with the sides of the iron.  With the two of them flush and square to each other it makes setting the iron parallel to the mouth much easier. I also strive to have the lateral adjust centered on the iron. If these two are off, the lateral adjust will off to one side or the other from center. That limits your range of adjustment.

the Ray Iles on the left and the Stanley on the right
 You can see a difference in the irons but it is closer than other replacement irons.

The Ray Iles iron is 0.099 inches thick - 2.49mm thick
The Stanley iron is 0.0735 inches thick - 1.89mm thick
The difference between them is 0.0255 inches - 0.6 mm. I did all the measurements just behind the bevel on both irons.

I have to road test it now
I have not done anything with the iron other than to look at with a goofy face. This is what is happening in real time with the iron right out of the package. I did not move the frog back neither. I left it where it was from the other iron setup. The mouth closed up a bit but not much. As we'll see it didn't effect passing shavings up and out through the mouth.

starting to get shavings
a little too thick
This is one continuous shaving from end to end. Thicker than I like but the two passes gave the same shavings.

from thick to wispy
I adjusted the iron and got some see through shavings. This isn't to bad considering how rough the bevel on this iron looks. I would use this on a project to plane with. I didn't feel any appreciable differences in planing between the two irons.

thin stock in the vise
Someone asked me why I used the planing stop. For thin width stock up to around 3-4" I like to use the planing stop. It is flat and level because the stock is laying on the bench top. In the vise, sometimes, the stock is too thin for the vise to grab it. Most of the time I don't get it level in the vise with the far end usually being pitched downwards. Another thing I don't have a warm and fuzzy about is it is so close to the top of the bench and the vise.

I prefer the fractional calipers
Frank doesn't have any fractional calipers and asked me to use this to measure in inches and mm.

checking to see if it is laminated
The color and texture of the iron is uniform from toe to heel. No lines or separations between the bevel end and the bottom of the slot neither.

same thing on both sides
front side of the iron is the same as the back
After looking over the iron I would say that it isn't laminated. I would think that I would have seen some color difference or demarcation between the two metals if they were there.

might as well see how flat the back is
ten strokes
This is pretty flat. Not as good as I have seen with a Lee Valley iron, but pretty darn good. It shouldn't take more then another ten minutes or so to get this flat. I didn't do that tonight.

these feel better today
The cool, clammy feeling I felt yesterday is 99% gone. Maybe tomorrow I'll be able to sand these and put on the poly.  I'll do that if I can sand this without getting a gummy eraser like residue. I really want to be done with this bookcase. I have a dutch toolchest to make for Myles.

cellar dehumidifier
This works ok until the the humidity gets up above the high 80s into the 90s range. After that it struggles to keep up. Tonight the humidity in the shop is 68% and it feels dry now. Sunday is supposed to be very hot and very humid. I wonder if that is giving me the clammy feeling on the bookcase?

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who is David Adkins?
answer - it is the birth name of the comedian Sinbad

3D Carving the BARN Workbench Vises

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 06/22/2017 - 9:27am

A workbench designed for hand tool woodworkers but made (partially) with a CNC. Each bench features a unique 3D carved leg vise. Here’s a video introduction into how they were made. The BARN workbench was designed for the Bainbridge Island Artisan Resource Network. BARN is a Seattle area community group that built a wonderful community facility for artisans to share resources, education, and workspace. To give them a hand, I […]

The post 3D Carving the BARN Workbench Vises appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Shaving Horse & Drawknife Basics

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 06/22/2017 - 8:30am

Traditional chairmaking starts with a shaving horse and a drawknife. Used with both green and dried wood, woodworkers have relied on these two tools for centuries. Simple to use, there are just a few things to be aware of before getting to work. In this short video, Windsor chairmaker Elia Bizzarri gives a valuable overview of what features are important when choosing a shaving horse and talks about proper grip, […]

The post Shaving Horse & Drawknife Basics appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Board member David Heim talks about the American Association of Woodturners – 360w360 E.237

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 06/22/2017 - 4:10am
Board member David Heim talks about the American Association of Woodturners – 360w360 E.237

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking, American Association of Woodturners (AAW) board member David Heim shares the benefits of membership to AAW, discusses an upcoming AAW event, which is held in Kansas City on June 23 – 25 in 2017, and explains what his responsibilities are as a member of the board.

Join 360 Woodworking every Thursday for a lively discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more).

Continue reading Board member David Heim talks about the American Association of Woodturners – 360w360 E.237 at 360 WoodWorking.

Ray Iles came......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 06/22/2017 - 1:09am
My international order came today from Ray Iles. I got it a lot faster than I was expecting it. I wonder if the Brit exit from EU will up the shipping times not to mention will there be any added hassles when it happens.  I got this in the mail and I ordered another thing.

I had posted a query on the Saw Mill Creek site about plow planes. I have the Record 405 (Stanley 45 equivalent) and it has 26 irons. I have only used 3 grooving irons so far. I like it and I don't like it. I am a single purpose use tool type guy and don't mind that. The 405 does a lot of things and is a multipurpose tool. It can be finicky and pain to set sometimes but it does work once those frustrations are dealt with.

I wanted to get some feed back on guys that have used a 405 or 45 and also used the Lee Valley small plane or other plow planes. And as an added bonus, also had used a wooden plow plane. I am letting the 405 go to greener pastures shortly. After reading through the comments, it became clear to me that small LV plow was a favorite. Didn't get any comments on wooden plow planes.

I had seen and fondled the Lie-Nielsen plow plane at the Second Hand Tool gathering in Amana a few years ago. It was a damn good looking plane. Lots of mass with a great presence in the hands. I haven't heard anything more about it since then. I'll probably be dead before it hits the street so I pulled the trigger on the Lee Valley small plow plane. I looked at the Lee Valley big plow plane coming soon but I like the simpler, uncluttered look of the smaller plow plane.

Ken Hatch left a comment saying I wouldn't regret the LV plane. He uses it and he also has experience with a Stanley 45 and 46. I respect his opinion and I pretty much had my mind made up after reading it. I would like to have the LN version but I'm not waiting. I should have the LV maybe by monday. After I get it I will offer my 405 for sale first on the blog and then elsewhere.

the PITA
The interior of the bookcase feels clammy. It is dry to the touch and there isn't any paint getting on my fingertips but it doesn't feel dry. The exterior feels dry, it is rough to the touch and not clammy feeling anywhere. I am going to let this set here for a few days and check what it is like then. Right now it is just pissing me off. I tried sanding it and it was like using an eraser. I was getting a gummy like residue instead of a fine powder.

the shelves are clammy feeling too
 The shelves can hang out with bookcase and dry out some more too. I decided to not chop sockets for the pins. The frame will keep the shelves in place and it's one less thing I have to do.

cleared customs ok
iron for a 5 1/2 and a Preston spokeshave
it's about 2 1/4" wide
almost as thin as the Stanley
The pic I shot of measuring the Stanley iron didn't come out. The Stanley measures a frog hair less than 5/64. That makes the Ray Iles iron a little than a 64th thicker than the Stanley. I'm liking this a lot because I don't buy the thicker irons reduce chatter crap at all.

ground at 25°
don't like this
I do not like hollow ground irons and that is what this is. I will sharpen it and let it stay this way and let subsequent sharpenings remove it.

old Preston iron on the left and new replacement Ray Iles iron on the right
The left one is giving me an illusion that it is bigger than the new Ray Iles but it isn't. They are pretty much the same with a couple of frog hair differences in the length of the slot.

the slot sides and top cutout line up (new on top of the old)

The slot on the Ray Iles is bit longer and the concave slot at the top lines up perfectly with the old iron underneath.

it's too wide for the Preston chamfering spokeshave
I knew this was too big but this is the actual proof is in the pudding.

new spokeshave iron on the left and Preston chamfer iron on the right

the two slot long sides line up
The older iron is about a 8th inch longer, top to bottom. The important thing is the top slots are exactly the same dimensions and line up perfectly.

replacement chamfer iron?
The tall slots aren't the same length but I don't think that would present any problems. The top slot is where the adjuster knob raises and lowers the iron that is the same. Maybe I can find someone to mill the Ray Iles spokeshave iron sides down to match the width of the older iron. If not I will try to do it with some cutoff wheels in my dremel.

just a few spots on the front to touch up

small detail brush
This worked perfectly getting the area around the lateral adjust.

The front of frog will be covered so I'm only putting one coat on it. Tomorrow if this feels ok to the touch, I'll sand the face on a flat surface to remove the black paint on it.

For Mike Hamilton: I'm an idiot because I removed your comment when I thought I was publishing it. My apologies for that mind fart.  If I remember you asked if I was going to bake the frog? This is oil based black enamel paint and I won't be baking it. On the flip side of the coin, can you bake this to make it more durable? Now I have a bug in my ear to silence.

Who was Gary Knox Bennett?
answer - he invented the roach clip (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mFaot87a7CM)

How to Make a Window

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 06/21/2017 - 9:00am
Small Window

Woodworkers often find themselves doubling as the resident fixer-upper. As the go-to person who has the tools you’ll often be asked to “fix this” or “build that” for the house. I recently did some window repair on my own house, and I must say that all of the things I’ve been learning about the craft helped me do a better job than I might have a few years ago. Regardless of what you […]

The post How to Make a Window appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

B’s & PT’s

The Slightly Confused Woodworker - Wed, 06/21/2017 - 8:53am

It’s been a bit of a while since I’ve blogged about woodworking, but I’ve decided to take a bit of time to let you all know what I’ve been doing.

To quickly sum up, I’ve been using my pointy things to make boxes from bits of wood. The backstory is a bit long and convoluted, so I will save that bit for another post. In any event, it has all been very therapeutic; I sharpen my pointy things, get some bits of pallet wood, clean up those bits, and make boxes out of them. The nice thing is there is very little measuring involved, if the bits of stock are small, I make itty-bitty boxes, if the bits are larger, the boxes are a bit larger. My pointy things don’t care; it’s all wood to them.

I understand that this post is a bit brief, but I had just a short bit of time to compose it. Hopefully my next bit is a bit longer, and explains my new obsession with boxes a bit better. Until then, I’ll keep my pointy things pointy and my bits of wood bitty.


Categories: General Woodworking

A Split Turned Sanding Block

Highland Woodworking - Wed, 06/21/2017 - 7:00am

The technique of split turning is most commonly associated with furniture from the 16th and 17th centuries but can be used for any project that requires a half round column. Curtis Turner recently used split turning to turn a curved sanding block, and he wrote about it in the June issue of The Highland Woodturner. This is a great project for practicing this technique while also creating a useful tool for your sanding needs.

Click here to read how to use split turning to make a curved sanding block

The post A Split Turned Sanding Block appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

The Student with a ‘Pause’ Button

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 06/21/2017 - 5:48am

My skew and I have a troubled relationship. It is by far my favorite turning tool and when things go right I feel I can do anything. We also fight a lot. To the level where those “never again” words cross my lips. It usually takes some form of counseling to get us back together. Our latest blowout was over rolling a bead. I think video is one of the best […]

The post The Student with a ‘Pause’ Button appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

a minor set back......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 06/21/2017 - 12:41am
The humidity is keeping up with the Jones but the heat isn't too bad. Summer starts tomorrow with the solstice happening at 1224 (AM) EDT. With the humidity we have had already and the weather being out of whack world wide, I think we are in for a toasty summer. My cats are a good indication of what is going on because they become more and more sedentary and sleep more with increasing heat and humidity. They eat less but they don't neglect keeping up the deposits in the litter box.

one coat
 The yoke slips over the groove in the adjuster knob freely. I feel that if I put on another coat that it could be too much. I'm not sure how long this paint will last once the plane is back together and in use.

one more here
There is a smudge by my finger and another on the bottom seat. One more coat on here will take care of them and be ok for the rest. Tomorrow I'll strip the painters tape off the front and touch up the spots there.

layout for the new shelf pin pockets
These aren't really needed because the frame will be in front of the shelf keeping it from coming forward. That is what the purpose of these pin sockets are for. Sounds a bit redundant.

the length isn't critical, the width is
I just thought of not having to do this as I was completing the layout. I put this aside after I did the layout and I'll think on whether or not to chop new shelf pin sockets.

tale of two drill bits
I have to clean out the holes I drilled and then painted over. The bit on the left is great for drilling a clean hole with a flat bottom. The one on the right will be used for cleaning the paint out of the holes.

not too too bad   this is the worse one
The holes look relatively clean considering how many coats of paint I put on the interior.

hand drill excels at this
You could use a powered hand drill (and I have) but the hand drill allows for a slower start and less chance of having the drill dancing all over the interior. You place the drill over the hole and turn the bit in reverse. This cleans up the top of the hole and registers the bit dead center on the hole. Once the hole top rim is established again, run the drill forward and all the paint comes out.

set the bit on what is there
Don't go nutso trying to center the bit because you can't see the outer rim of the hole. Running the bit in reverse cleans the rim and bit drops into the hole, centered.

turned in reverse a couple of turns
going forward
Most of the paint comes out now and you have a nice clean hole again.

two cleaned holes on the left and holes to be cleaned on the right
doing the back wall holes
I had to remove the side handle and I still had room between the wall and the drill. Going in reverse wasn't a problem but going forward was. The drill wanted to twist to the right and bang into the back wall. It was awkward holding the top of drill with basically my fingertips and stopping that from happening.

almost had a blow out
This surprised me because I used a depth stop to drill all the holes 5/16" deep in 3/4" thick stock. As soon as I saw wood with the drill I stopped. Guess I didn't stop quick enough on this hole.

The drill didn't pull out everything. What was left behind I was able to get with the tweezers.

no blowouts or partial ones on the second side
the minor setback
The plan was to scrape the interior, sand it, vacuum it, and apply the first of two cots of water based poly. I got the scraping and vacuuming done. I'll have to paint parts of the interior again because the scraper pulled a blob of paint off. Along with the surprise from the scraper, I left smudges and dirty finger marks all over the interior. I'll have to get some gloves so I don't dirty this up again.

the last time painting (maybe)
I did the sides and got paint in most of the freshly cleaned holes so I'll be doing the hand drill dance steps again. I also painted the top and bottom to cover my smudges but I didn't paint the back. We'll see what shakes out tomorrow with this.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Maine is the most heavily forested US state. Who is in tenth place?
answer - North Carolina

The Blacksmith Shop of Mt Vernon

MVFlaim Furnituremaker - Tue, 06/20/2017 - 6:52pm

Spending some time in Washington DC last week, my wife and I went to Mt. Vernon to visit George Washington’s estate. After we bought our tickets to the view of the house, we had some time to kill, so we walked around the grounds to see what else was around.


On the right side of the estate near the near the back, was the blacksmith shop. It appeared to be about 15′ x 20′ in size.


We arrived in front and saw one of the blacksmiths making a large hinge. You can see how soaked his shirt is as it was nearly 90 degrees that day. He must lose twenty pounds during the summer working in there.


Here’s a shot of the bench with a scrap iron on the ground waiting for use.


Here are some of the items the blacksmiths make at the estate. What’s really cool is they make axe heads and other tools.



On the side of the shop sat a bin full of coal which stank to high heaven. The smell of burning coal is not a pleasant thing.


I looked around the other buildings for a carpentry or cabinet shop, but found nothing. I find it odd that Washington didn’t have one on his estate somewhere. The only thing I saw was display case inside the museum with this panel raising plane.


#WhyIMake: What’s Your Story?

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 06/20/2017 - 11:27am
why i make slices of zen

Among the goals of the #WhyIMake campaign (from infosys.org) is to inspire people to make things with their hands, to spread the importance of maker skills and to share resources for doing so. It began as a foundation aimed toward encouraging children and K-12 educators of underrepresented groups, and has grown into a celebration of the maker movement at large. Among well-known people with whom the foundation has partnered to get out the message are […]

The post #WhyIMake: What’s Your Story? appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Winner(s): Ridiculous Woodworking Books

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 06/20/2017 - 8:49am
Ridiculous Books cover winner

Y’all are funny – picking the winner of the Ridiculous Woodworking Books contest was a difficult task. But I had to choose a winner, so…I chose two. Each of the winners gets a copy of our reprint of David Denning’s “The Art and Craft of Cabinet-Making.” One is Wittefish’s birdhouse homage to one of my favorite books, “Go the F**k to Sleep,” by Adam Mansbach, illustrated by Ricardo Cortes – of which […]

The post Winner(s): Ridiculous Woodworking Books appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Online SketchUp Training-Free Practice Sessions

Bob Lang's ReadWatchDo - Tue, 06/20/2017 - 6:34am
I’m getting closer to offering a series of live online classes for using SketchUp in a variety of situations. Before I do that, I want to test the online platform and I could use your help. I have two sessions … Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking


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