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I was still deciding on how to put on the top bearer. After looking at tonight's movement, I don't trust a bridle joint staying true. I wouldn't even guess at which way the open mortise/tenon would move. That was my preference but not anymore. A removable pinned mortise and tenon joint was batting 2nd but I discarded that for the same reason I did the bridle joint. The leading contender now is a shallow mortise the same size as the bearer/stretcher. It will be the same joinery I used on the stretchers for the book shelves I made.
|it looks good|
|all of them are twisted|
|putting the toolbox back together comes first|
|too much paint on this corner|
|a Paul Sellers chiseling guide|
|my wife says this is a mess|
What organization did Henry Bergh establish in 1866?
answer - the SPCA (Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals)
In Roubo’s description of the finishing processes and materials included in L’art du Menuisier (and thus our To Make As Perfectly As Possible translation) he used the word “juncus” when referring to the fibrous plant from which the polissoirs were made. At the time we had competing dictionary definitions and identifiers, “rush,” “grass,” and “straw” all showed up in one dictionary or another, and in the end I decided to simply use the word “grass” if I recall correctly.
Yannick Chastang, like my Roubo Project collaborator Philippe Lafargue, was trained in the full multi-year program at Ecole Boulle in Paris, chided me that Roubo chose the word “juncus” on purpose and I should have as well, at least in concert with the word “rush.” Fair enough, but in retrospect since the word Juncus refers to a genus with over 300 species of grassy rushes I cannot beat myself up too much for that editorial decision.
I was talking about this to Mrs. Barn one day, she being a botanist/mycologist by training, and she said something like, “Well, you are in luck since we have Juncus effusus growing around the pond.” She took me outside and sure enough, we have a number of fairly immature clumps at the shore of our pond. When Daniel the stonemason was here building the hand-knapped dry-stack wall a few months ago he mentioned that he had loads of juncus growing around his pound and I was welcome to harvest as much as I wanted.
As a break from our activities during ManWeek John and I took the morning an went to Daniel’s place to harvest soft rush, or juncus. We first spent a minute ogling his greenhouse. Mrs. Barn will be most impressed with it when we visit again.
Then we headed to the pond and there was indeed a multitude of soft rushes ringing one end of it. In less than an hour of harvesting we had the back seat of the Envoy completely filled.
Back at the barn we sorted and arranged the rushes to dry in the sun before moving them inside a few days later.
Yannick avers that polissoirs made from these fibers have a very different feel and performance than the ones I get made from sorghum broom straw. After this material gets fully dry and I make some Juncus polissoirs I will be able to make my own determination on that.
This is the third and last post in a series about making linoleum counters and table tops. Let’s talk about corners. I find corners, whether square or rounded, the most challenging part of making a linoleum topped counter or table. When you’re working with metal edging, measurements have to be ultra-precise, and bending the material can be a challenge. Here are some tips. Square corners are sharp — never more […]
The Merriam-Webster dictionary defines “mnemonic” as (noun) “assisting or intended to assist memory.” As an example, they give, “To distinguish “principal” from “principle” use the mnemonic aid “the principal is your pal.”’
I used it just the other day. I wanted to order some paper for my new Festool RO-90 that switches from delta sander to 90mm round random orbit sander, and Rubin2 was the first example that popped up in the 120 grit I wanted. I thought about Steve’s video for a minute, and said, “No, what I want is ‘general, gray,’” which helped me remember it was Granat that I needed, not Rubin2. A couple more clicks on HighlandWoodworking.com and I was on the right paper.
With that in mind, I asked Steve if I could publish a written form of his memory tool that you and I could print out and nail to our shop walls, or laminate and store with our sandpaper supplies. He said OK, so here it is.
Granat: “General-gray-blue color.” Steve says if you can buy only one Festool abrasive, Granat may be your go-to general sandpaper. It’s good on bare wood and finished wood and is supplied in extra-coarse to extremely fine (40 to 1500).
Rubin2: “Raw wood, russet potato red.” It has a special coating that sheds raw wood fibers. It is available from coarse to extra fine (40-220).
Brilliant2: “Between finish coats, beige.” Anti-static coating that works well sanding paints, fillers, varnishes, lacquers, shellac even water-based finishes. Its surface won’t load up or “corn” as some papers do with finish materials. Coarse to fine (40-180).
Vlies (pronounced like “fleece”): “Clean, scour, scuff and polish.” Steve says it’s thick, like a pot-scrubbing pad. Good for applying paste wax on equipment. Clean, scour, scuff, sand, polish, smooth out irregular surfaces. It doesn’t have dust extractor holes, but dust goes right through it. Grits are A100 to A800, polishing green and fine polishing white.
Saphir: “Shaping or stripping.” Aggressive, super-coarse to coarse grits. Removes a lot of material quickly. Grits 24-80.
Platin2: “Premium polishing pad.” Foam-backed for high gloss finishes, pumice and rottenstone. Used extensively in the auto industry, but Steve has used it on an ebony project. Grits range from S400 to S4000.
Titan2: “Tucks in” to curves and contours. Solid surfaces, couple with super-flexible latex backer. Steve says use it t polish your Bentley.
Find out more and purchase Festool Abrasives at Highland Woodworking!
Jim Randolph is a veterinarian in Long Beach, Mississippi. His earlier careers as lawn mower, dairy farmer, automobile mechanic, microwave communications electronics instructor and journeyman carpenter all influence his approach to woodworking. His favorite projects are furniture built for his wife, Brenda, and for their children and grandchildren. His and Brenda’s home, nicknamed Sticks-In-The-Mud, is built on pilings (sticks) near the wetlands (mud) on a bayou off Jourdan River. His shop is in the lower level of their home.Questions and comments on woodworking may be written below in the comments section. Questions about pet care should be directed to his blog on pet care, www.MyPetsDoctor.com. We regret that, because of high volume, not all inquiries can be answered personally.
My first shop sawing helpers were a pair of saw benches I adapted from Jim Toplin's in his book Traditional woodworker. These are big but not as heavy as the saw donkeys. However, the two of them take up more space than the saw donkeys. I used them for a while but put them aside. I didn't like the low down, have to kneel on the stock to saw something. These now live almost permanently in the bone yard.
The one thing I really like about the saw donkeys is the height of them. I can lean over and hold the stock with my off hand and saw with the other. My knees don't hurt nor my back, when I'm done using them. After seeing the Oregon Woodworker's blog post on his Krenov styled saw donkeys, I decided to make another set.
My first saw donkeys were made out of 4x4 stock and the new set is being made with 2x4's. That will reduce the weight of them by half. The other problem with them is the space issue. I don't use or need these all the time. So the time I don't need them, they are usually in the way. These new saw donkeys will be a knock down version. I will be able to take them apart and lay them flat up against a wall out of the way.
|filling nail holes|
|raw wood before the paint went on|
|some holidays here|
|extra screw holes from fixing the banding|
|barely damp rag for the nail hole cleanup|
|needs a another coat|
|this did the trick|
|debating whether or not to paint the bottom|
|the new saw donkey stock|
|my doodling for the new saw donkeys|
There are doubles in the drawing - I only need 2 top bearers, 2 feet, and two stretchers. I doubled them to account for knots and other headaches that I might of run into.
|this has to go somewhere else|
|this one is almost quarter sawn|
|angled brown knot|
|double triple checking my cut list|
|been a while|
|marked a plumb line to saw on|
|it helped a lot|
|no way to avoid any knots|
|everything cut to rough length|
|not in use - they eat up a lot of space|
|left over stock|
|getting an idea of what they will look like|
|^%#@!!)&;;;*(*$@%& rounded edges|
|this is toast|
|new stretcher rough sawn to length in the vise|
|pattern laid out|
|can't use the bandsaw|
|vertical cuts with the Zona|
|circular cut with the coping saw|
|looks ordinary and needs help|
|two step haircut|
|clipped the top notch to complete the make over|
|some divider work|
|set the mortise gauge to the divider points|
|quick look to see how flat the back is|
|touched up the tip|
|drilled 3 holes|
|not too bad of a mortise|
|it's a consistent 1/2" end to end|
|I painted it|
Which US President is third for having places named for him?
answer - Abraham Lincoln
On a recent trip to the Philadelphia area for a wedding, I had a chance to visit some of my favorite antiques dealers in South Jersey. At one of them, I came across this rather ordinary bench:
This bench has a tool tray and a tool rack on the back:
Drawers have machine cut dovetails:
An adjustable bench stop is currently frozen in place:
The odd thing here was the label on the front of the bench:
If you know Hammacher Schlemmer at all, you probably know them for that catalog that makes you wonder why you’re getting it. It features such brilliant gifts such as The Best Bug Vacuum for $69.95 and the $50,000 The Barbecue Dining Boat.
Hammacher Schlemmer actually has a more interesting past:
Hammacher Schlemmer began as a hardware store specializing in hard-to-find tools in the Bowery district of New York City in 1848. Owned by proprietors Charles Tollner and Mr. R Stern, it became one of the first national hardware stores. A few months later, Stern withdrew and Toller continued the business until 1859, moving in 1857 to 209 Bowery. In 1859, family friend Albert Hammacher invested $5,000 into the company and the name was changed to C. Tollner and A. Hammacher.
Throughout the 1860s, William Schlemmer gradually bought out Charles Tollner’s stake in the company. When Tollner died in 1867, 26-year-old Schlemmer entered into a partnership with Hammacher and Peter F. Taaks. As a result, the company changed its name to Hammacher & Co. William Schlemmer had been actively involved with the business since 1853 when he moved to New York City from Germany at age twelve and worked at the storefront. After a few years Taaks resigned and since Schlemmer owned a greater portion of the company, the name was changed in 1883 to the present style of Hammacher Schlemmer & Co.
And it was all down hill from there.
Things change. Look on eBay for Hammacher Schlemmer in collectables and antiques.
More history for young people:
Abercrombie & Fitch: Founded in 1892 in the Manhattan borough of New York City, New York, by David T. Abercrombie and Ezra Fitch, Abercrombie & Fitch was an elite outfitter of sporting and excursion goods, particularly noted for its expensive shotguns, fishing rods, fishing boats, and tents.
American Eagle Outfitters: The first attempt was to open American Eagle Outfitters in 1977, positioning it as a proprietor of brand-name leisure apparel, footwear, as well as accessories for men and women, emphasizing merchandise suited for outdoor sports, such as hiking, mountain climbing, and camping.
I bought my first (and last) sleeping bag and tent at American Eagle Outfitters.
I am adding the following item to this blog because I found it interesting and don’t know where else to put it. I did find it at the same shop which makes them location coincidental. It is this box:
And waterfowl on the lid:
A closer view does not necessarily provide answers:
My best guess after looking at the actual box and these pictures if that it is a veneer failure. Looking at the corner of the lid you can see the substrate is white and the veneer likes to free itself. There is already a veneer failure at the edge of the tail board. Wood movement cracked the veneer and it either fell off or was picked of by idle fingers.
But, I could be wrong…
It’s OFFICIAL! I am a presenter at the 2018 Weekend with Wood woodworking event hosted by Wood Magazine at its Des Moines, Iowa classrooms and shops. The event is held May 17th through the 20th, so make your reservations now. Listed as teachers at next year’s event are names such as Gary Rogowski, Jeff Miller, Vic Tesolin, Steve and Jeremy Stevenson, George Vondriska, the staff at Wood magazine and others.
I could make something like this from the Oregon Woodworker to tide me over project wise. I had made a set of these out of 4x4's last year (?) and they work but are a PITA to move around and use. I like the lighter look and weight of these. I am not a fan of a saw bench but I dido like sawing on my saw donkeys. I was still suffering from my bigger has to be better sickness when I made the 4x4 monsters I have. Lowes sells Douglas Fir 2x stock and I will make a run to get them tomorrow.
I should be working on new workbench. But my wife threw a huge monkey wrench into that happening. She decided that she wasn't paying the Lowes credit card bill anymore because I had paid off my VISA card. I had forgotten all about it because she has been paying it for the last few years. So I took all the $$$ I had saved up in the bank for the workbench and gave it to Lowes. The plan is to have it paid off by the end of October. I still have high hopes that I will at least be able to make the base for it this year.
|first use of the miter box|
The auxiliary base I used is 3/4" and it is not thick enough for this. I can barely make out the saw kerf made by the saw. If I remember it I'll get a 5/4 pine board from Lowes tomorrow. That thickness should be ok and I should be able to put a saw kerf in it.
|one 22.5° cut done|
|the before pic right off the saw|
|the 2nd after pic planed up|
|worth the calorie expenditure|
|need to fix one more thing|
|the right side has a gap|
|one more fix to do|
|my Preston chamfer spokeshave|
|that is the size I need|
|I bought an assortment package of washers|
|I couldn't find a fit|
|too loose in the 6mm hole|
|painting the toolbox|
What is the Great White Way?
answer - the nickname for the theater district on Broadway in New York City
If you asked me five years ago what I thought I would end up doing with my time, woodworking would have been one of my last guesses. My story begins in a high-rise, towering over the neon-painted beaches of Miami, Florida. I was raised by a single mom, a strong-willed Spaniard with a business of her own who stubbornly managed to become her own handyman, and my brother, a talented […]
I was recently asked to be Godfather to my youngest niece. This is quite the honor, especially in my Italian-American family. This notion has much less to do with religion and much more to do with influence in my family. You see, this pretty much gives me full license to spout off on a myriad of topics for the rest of my niece’s life. She won’t always be obligated to […]
The post From Pinterest to Real Life – A Custom Necklace Stand appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.
I was looking at Lie Nielsen's miter box saws with the thought of maybe buying one. The largest saw they offer is 28" long with a 4" saw plate that is 0.032 thick. Both of the miter box saws I have are 0.045 and 0.048 thick. They are also longer than 28". LN is the only maker of saws that I know of that offers miter box saws but they state their saws will fit Langdon or Miller Falls miter boxes. I can't remember which of these Stanley bought out?
|pretty much even|
|replaced the phillips head screws|
|the far left and near right are high|
|it was awfully close|
This miter box frame is cast iron and cast iron is strong but not as strong as you might think. It is very easy to stress it causing a break or crack. I didn't think that far ahead when I did my love taps on the feet. What I should have done was check the lay of the land, remove the feet and whack them, put them back on and check it. Start the dance steps again if I didn't have a 4 point contact.. Sometimes you get lucky.
|front saw guide post|
|blurry pic of the screw|
|a little more than a 1/2" shy|
|the cut with the $25 saw I forgot last night|
|the $25 saw has a 3 1/2" plate|
|the big plate saw fits - it has a 4 3/4" plate|
|these hold downs|
|sawed a 90 and then a R/L 45|
|pretty good for off the saw with a molded profile|
|better profile fit and still square|
|found a piece of plywood for a base|
|it pays to be a pack rat|
|it's new home for now|
|both saws will live here|
What is the last element on the periodic table?
answer - Ununoctium
While I was occupied with the Roubo bench slab in the center hall of the barn John was a dozen feet away in the classroom tinkering with the Winterthur ripple molding cutter. When we gathered earlier as a group we identified a number of modifications that might serve to transform it into a reliable, precision machine. I ordered all the materials and supplies we thought we needed for this undertaking so everything was ready to go for John to dive in to making these modifications a reality.
As a moment of review, the ripple molding machine is simply a contoured scraper being drawn across a length of wood, with either the scraper or the workpiece being undulated by some sort of linear pattern. In short, a ripple molding is the result of controlled chatter.
In the case of this machine it is the cutter that remains fixed relative to the length of the frame, but which undulates up-and-down via a horizontal “follower” rod affixed to the cutterhead frame, pressing down on the pattern running the length of the machine frame. We found in our earlier efforts that either the pattern or the follower ere being degraded and even destroyed by the very process of creating the moldings.
I do not know how this problem was dealt with historically, but for our applications we decided to replace the extant follower rod with a new rod and tiny roller bearings to instead ride along the pattern, transferring the up-and-down impulse without friction to the cutterhead. John spent extensive time retrofitting the cutterhead to accommodate this modification without damaging or changing irrevocably the machine as it was presented to me.
After installing the new follower system John reported to me with a grand smile that it as a perfect solution to the problem, and would guide our design considerations as we move forward with new machines in both our futures.
Don’t miss tonight’s airing of “The Canopy Kings” TV show pilot featuring “The Perfect Treehouse” author Django Kroner and his crew of treehouse builders. Django’s treehouses are amazing and the book he created with us is filled with great advice for building your own treehouse (whether it’s a backyard build for the kids or a weekend getaway in the woods). Make sure to check out “The Canopy Kings” on Animal Planet […]
|almost forgot this|
|all the parts are here|
|axle hitch grease|
|not lining up|
|the angle detent|
|the smaller pin is for the angle detent|
|the light bulb came on when I saw this.|
|how it has to go on|
|how it goes on|
|setting the tension|
|the base feet are toast|
|found some help|
|multiple saw cuts|
|this is a pretty good lucking dry fitted 45°|
|I can definitely live with this|
|supposed to have two of these|
I checked under the bench where I keep the planes and hadn't fallen there. I swept the floor and piled the shavings up and sifted through them trying to find it. No joy. I then ran a magnet through it and I only found that my #6 screws I used on the shipping box are magnetic. I didn't find what I was looking for.
|look what I found|
|what is this?|
|they are laying flat here|
What did Francis Crick and James Watson find in 1953?
answer - they are credited with discovering the DNA double helix
From time to time, Festool offers their reconditioned tools in a big sale, which presents an opportunity to purchase their tools at a decent price point. Several of my tools from Festool are reconditioned, and I wouldn’t have known – they came “like new.” A new website from the German toolmaker has cropped up, with a tantalizing URL: festoolrecon.com. While the website is vague as to exactly what it will be […]
The post Festool Recon – New Reconditioned Tools Website from Festool appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.
String inlay is a quick and dramatic way to add interest and dimension to any woodworking project. And it’s not just string inlay, you can add banding and any number of decorative veneer pieces using the router that’s already in your shop. You may need to tweak the edge guide a bit and certain operations will benefit from more specialized bits, but the benefit to your projects will be well […]
For this month’s issue of Festool Heaven, we asked Steve Johnson which Festool he would recommend for a friend if they had never owned a Festool product before. He said the question sounded strange at first, but after thinking about it awhile, he came up with a surprising answer.
The post Festool Heaven: Which Festool Should You Buy First? appeared first on Woodworking Blog.
I’ll be updating my workshop-teaching schedule soon with some Plymouth CRAFT classes and looking toward next year (we’ve started planning Greenwood Fest already!) In the meantime, I have a few spoons (and one bowl) for sale this time – if you’d like one, just leave a comment and we can take it from there; paypal or check is fine either way. Woods this time are birch, cherry & walnut. All carved with hatchet, knife and hook knife. Finished with food-grade flax oil. Prices include shipping in US. Elsewhere additional charge for shipping. Click the images to enlarge. Thanks for you interest, if you have questions just leave a comment or send an email.
Sept spoon 01; black birch.
L: 10 1/2″ W: 2 3/4″
Sept spoon 02; black birch,
L: 10 1/2″ W: 2 5/8″
Sept spoon 03; black birch
Sept spoon 04,
L: 12″ W: 2 7/8″
Sept spoon 05
L: 11 1/2″ W: 2 3/4″
Aug spoon 01 –
this one was my favorite from last time. Didn’t get picked. Might be the price tag…but this is as good a spoon as I can make. cherry, crook. This spoon blank left me with a very long, narrow bowl. Overall a long spoon. Great crook shape, I couldn’t resist.
L: 13 7/8″ W: 2 1/8″
Sept spoon 06
Walnut. I’ve been riving up some walnut for joined stools, and got some bits here & there to try for spoons. Radially split.
L: 10 1/2″ W: 2 3/4″
Sept spoon 07, walnut (see above)
L: 10 1/2″ W: 2 7/8″
Sept spoon 08; walnut
L: 10 1/2″ W: 3″
large cherry crook
The last of these over-sized cherry crooks.
L: 13″ W: 4″
The cherry bird bowl. I have more of these underway, but won’t get to them for months now – I have a lot of furniture work ahead of me. The bird bowls come from great curved crooks.
L: 15″ H: (at front) 7 1/4″
Festool will soon be offering reconditioned tools.
When I last left the oak Roubo bench 4+ years ago it was still quite ways from being done (one of the great benefits of building a bench a la David Baron is that it can get done in a week). The leg tenons were all cut, but only two of the dovetailed mortises and none of the rectangular mortises, so clearly a lot of drilling and chopping was in store. There was nothing exceptional about the task or process other than it required flipping the top a couple of times to get the job done. The last two dovetailed open mortises took about an hour to knock out.
Drilling and chopping the closed mortises went smoothly. For three of the four. And the fourth? Grrrrr! For some inexplicable reason I switched from a Forstner-style bit to a long auger bit for my drill, and it went astray. Not just astray but bound tighter than a drum and would not move forward or backward (a theme that was not yet fully played out). After a lot of fussing and fuming I was eventually forced to drive it through the other face using my sledge hammer. Sheer brute force. I was reminded of my late friend Mel Wachowiak’s quip, “With enough force you can pull he tail off a living cow.” Or drive a 7/8 auger bit through an inch of solid oak.
This blew out a chunk of the face adjacent to the mortise, leaving me less cheery than you might expect, my anger being tempered only by the fact that all this damage took place on the underside of the slab. An hour later I had knitted together all the splintered wood and glued it back in place to leave overnight. In the end it was a patience-expanding experience.
The good news is that the repaired place (epoxy and shavings filled) held up perfectly when chopping the mortise in that area. The repair felt just like the adjacent wood and held a nice crisp corner with no chipping or fracture.
So now the mortises were all done and seemed to provide a nice snug fit, and I was looking forward to driving the legs home in the morning.
Oh, about that…