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General Woodworking

Weekend Workbench

Anne of All Trades - 3 hours 5 min ago

Click here to read my article in Furniture and Cabinetmaking Magazine about a weekend workbench featuring my favorite knockdown joint, the Tusk joint. This was one of my favorite builds to date, because it was a project with one of my favorite instructors at Pratt. Steve brings a whole lot of laughter and knowledge into the shop, and I love designing projects and building with him. 

Learn Math with a Framing Square – “Framing Square Math” by Joe Youcha

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - 14 hours 23 min ago

Many kids (not to mention woodworkers) will say “I hate math!”. But as Kalid Azad of www.betterexplained.com has pointed out what they are really saying is that they hate how math makes them feel. Nobody likes to feel frustrated and stupid. Presenting math concepts through manipulating a physical “calculator,” however, goes a long way to not only changing that perception but to instilling an intuitive understanding of the core principles […]

The post Learn Math with a Framing Square – “Framing Square Math” by Joe Youcha appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Secret Finish Fix

360 WoodWorking - 14 hours 42 min ago
Secret Finish Fix

I learned many year ago that there are going to be problems when finishing. The simple saying that the difference between a woodworker and a great woodworker is that a great woodworker knows how to fix their problems is every bit as true when it comes to finish work. Learning a great finish fix is key to making your project look its best. The more weapons you have in your arsenal, the better your projects will look.

Continue reading Secret Finish Fix at 360 WoodWorking.

Talking Studley in Fredericksburg VA

The Barn on White Run - 15 hours 13 min ago

Recently I was invited to speak about the HO Studley project to the Frederickburg (VA) Woodworker’s Guild.  My friend SteveD was my host and a grand time ensued.

While at Steve’s I got to see a bed frame he had been working on in recent weeks, and about which we had corresponded regarding the finish being used.  This bed was commissioned by the organization that is recreating George Washington’s childhood home near Fredericksburg.  Much of the recreation is based on rigorous and ongoing archaeology.  The Washington family domicile being readied for the public is all new construction, but there is solid evidence that it is a very faithful interpretation of the original.

Steve has been commissioned to create a number of beds (and perhaps other pieces?) for the site, and this bed is a stunning one.

The audience at the Guild meeting was large and enthusiastic, Steve said it was about twice normal.  And you gotta admit, the tale of Henry O. Studlew is a compelling one.  The group meets in a semi-industrial space which suited me just fine.

The audience was very attentive and engaged, asking excellent questions throughout the presentation and staying after to discuss all manner of Studley and Roubo topics.  They promised to invite me back, and I look forward to that event.

maintenance time......

Accidental Woodworker - 19 hours 38 min ago
Sharpening a couple of irons was #1 on the hit parade for tonight. I've got to turn this into a habit so I can pass it on to Miles. I know that I can show him how I sharpen my tools but I think it is much more important that he learn to sharpen as needed. That means stopping whatever and wherever to sharpen once a tool is dull. Seeing me doing it will be a positive for him.

#4 plane parts
I de-rusted these parts monday night and today I cleaned them. After I cleaned them with the degreaser, I rinsed them with fresh water and dried them. These are going in an EvapoRust bath overnight. I used to just toss the parts in the EvapoRust but I found that it gets dirty and turns black. I have cleaned the parts on 3 planes before I put them in EvapoRust. I found that it stays it's greenish color and it probably works better on clean parts vice grungy ones.

highly visible line
I am leaving this as it is. It has been sanded smooth and I can't feel it with my fingertips. It will be a parts plane and a traveling to school plane so it doesn't need to look seamless. It is a solid repair and my hand will hide it as I use it.

cleaning/de-greasing the plane body
I thought this was rust
This orange colored spot is paint. I was able to scrap it off the vertical part of the brace. The only place where the japanning is sparse is on the top of this cross brace. There are 3 spots on the body where the japanning is shiny. The knob stem is one.

underneath the frog is the 2nd spot
under the tote is the 3rd spot
This is the best japanning I've seen on any plane that I've rehabbed. I haven't typed this yet but I'm guessing it is a type 5-8? If it is, it is 100+ years old and that is pretty good for it's age.

the #4 iron
Big pitted areas but I'm concerned with the edge at the bevel. I think that I will be able to lap out the little bits of pitting that are there.

stoned a flat on the back of the chipbreaker
I will finish the iron/chipbreaker after I rehabbed the plane. I don't need it until June.

this is difficult for me to sharpen
I put this on the bench 3 days ago and I sharpened and honed it tonight. On thing I haven't figured out how to do is to strop it. I did it once before and I rounded over the end. I had to sharpen it again and I haven't thought of another way to strop it yet.

Record 044 skate
Sparks had made a comment on my 044 woes and I misunderstood him. I thought he was referring to the bottom of his skate not being square. His blog post is here.

see the shiny areas at the toe
There were a lot of burrs and rough areas on the toe that I filed off. I had a few at the heel too. I also filed the sharp edge of the skate on both sides while I had the file out.

this is what Sparks was talking about
His fence (to me) didn't appear to be square to the fence rods. Visually, my skate and the fence both appear to be square to the fence rods.

back one is half a frog hair off square
front one is dead nuts
I am square off both fence rods to the skate so I'm hitting square on 3 out 4.

no movement at all now
The fence rods are loose in every single hole. When I tighten down the screws, they push the rod against the opposing wall of the hole and hold the rod tight. No wiggling anymore but is this a design feature of the plane?

I tried to buy new rods and a 10mm drill bit from McMaster-Carr but I am dead in the water with them. I emailed them 3 times requesting a password reset and I didn't get it. Both my trash and my spam folders were/are empty. On the 4th request, McMaster-Carr said that too many attempts to access my account had been done so the account was locked. I tried two more times today and I still haven't gotten a reset. I emailed them directly and I'm waiting to hear back on that.

no burr
I set it on this
So I should be able to go to my coarse stone and raise a burr. Instead what I get on the coarse stone are grind marks on the bevel  back at the heel.

my coarsest diamond stone
I reground a new bevel on the iron but still no burr. I'll set up the 80 grit runway and use that. I know I can raise a burr on that in a few strokes.

I didn't get the glue up of the cabinet done but maybe tomorrow. I am going to try and glue it up without any fasteners. I rehearsed a dry clamp up a couple of times and I think it's doable. The joints all come together easily and are tight and even.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Congress established the US Military Academy at West Point in 1802?

Of Barn Doors and Stump Sitting

The Barn on White Run - Tue, 01/16/2018 - 3:20pm

En route back to Shangri-La following our excursion into deepest Flyover Country we stopped to see the progress of things at Lost Art Press.   Mrs. Barn had never seen the new World Headquarters and since they were within a mile of our route, I checked to make sure we could stop.

As usual Chris was hard at work in the shop and on the shop, but he took a few minutes to visit and relax.

During that brief visit I sat in the Mother of All Stump Chairs that Chris has been chronicling.  I cannot say I could sit there for an entire evening but it was more comfortable than I expected and looked pretty cool too.  All I needed was a bearskin vest and a grog of mead and I would have looked right at home.

We also toured the new machine room emerging from the renovation of the carriage house out back, and Chris had just hung and caulked his hand-made doors before we arrived.  I definitely approve.

I join Chris in celebrating the establishment of the new headquarters, and even his dream of living in this vintage high density neighborhood.  He likes having neighbors nearby, I like having neighbors on the other side of the mountain.

Woodworking Workshop for Parents and our Fall Fair 2017 – Part 1

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 01/16/2018 - 1:32pm

One of the nice traditions at the school I teach in is our annual Fall Fair. The Fair is a one-day extravaganza in which the school transformed into a magical forest-like world. Laden with autumn and winter atmosphere, our building’s interior is decorated with fabrics, branches, logs and leaves to support the imaginary themes of fairy tales and mythology. To help our school with fundraising during the fair, parents volunteer […]

The post Woodworking Workshop for Parents and our Fall Fair 2017 – Part 1 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Quick tip: Storing Wood Glue

Highland Woodworking - Tue, 01/16/2018 - 7:00am

In the December issue of The Highland Woodturner, Phil Colson shared his quick tip for storing wood glue when you are in a climate where it gets below freezing in the winter.

Read Phil’s tip and save your wood glue this winter!

The post Quick tip: Storing Wood Glue appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

started the chisel cabinet.......

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 01/16/2018 - 12:44am
Had to contend with my wife still sleeping at oh dark thirty after a weeks absence. She came back from her business trip on sunday night. The airport was almost empty when I got there at 1915. I've been picking up Diane at this airport for years and I don't remember ever seeing it so devoid of people. Granted it's a piss ant small airport but there were maybe 10 people total that I saw inside while I waited.

laying out for a rabbet
using the LV rabbet plane to make them
made a test rabbet in some scrap
wee bit proud
I want some proud but not this much. I fiddled with the fence and ran two more test rabbets before I was happy.

not working
I could feel the iron dulling as I made each pass. The last three gave me this. I had used my knife to cut down on the shoulder but it didn't help at this spot. The plane caught the cross plies just right here. It started out small and the last pass ripped it up badly. Put the rabbet plane aside and switched to the next noiseless operation.

took the tape off
The tote looks pretty good from this side.

looks good now
After I had sanded this side, I saw that the glue line on this side was highly visible. I lost some wood along the crack that I hadn't noticed yesterday.

glue foamed up and closed up the hole
I tapped the stud through the hole from the top down. I didn't have any problems opening up the hole.

clear and clean top to bottom
see the whitish line
That is the glue line. I don't think stain will take on the gorilla glue line. Entertaining the thought of digging out the glue line and filling it with rosewood dust and hide glue.

I can make noise now
Used my electric router and a 3/4" straight bit and made a rabbet on the two sides to capture the back.

dry clamping run
I was dry clamping to look at screwing and nailing one side on the back. Then repeat it for the other side using the 90° clamping block to hold things square. The square blocks aren't working that well keeping this square. On to plan #2.

edge banding
I got this from Tico Vogt and I was going to use it for another project but that fell through. I have cherry and walnut. I'll use one of these to hide the plywood plies.

getting my size finalized
 Decided to make the cabinet size to match the footprint of the rolling dolly. The side to side is almost dead on and the front to back is about 3/4" proud.

this worked
With making the cabinet the same size as the dolly, I was able to use the smaller piece of 1/2" plywood.

top fitted
I used the off cuts from cutting the panels to size to use as spacers at the front. I sawed two of them to match the inside distance between the sides at the top back. The bottom is/was almost dead nuts where it was supposed to be. The top had toed inward. These held the sides/back square while I got an accurate measurement for the top.

it is a bit proud
I'll wait until I get the bottom done and I'll trim them at the same time.

The crappy looking piece of oak plywood I was going to use for the bottom is toast. On the top piece I had the factory edge to work off and the on the oak one I didn't. What I had with that was four hand sawn, out of square edges.

Since I was going to lunch with my friend Billy who retired last year, I decided to get a new piece of plywood. Added bonus is that Billy lives right next to a Lowes. I stopped there after I brought him home after lunch.

left the  saw set
This is set at the same cut I made for the top that I had to repeat for the bottom.

dry clamp with the top and bottom in place
The sides and back are 3/4" plywood with the top and bottom 1/2" plywood. Even dry clamped, this is a rigid and sturdy cabinet. I am changing lanes again and I'll be going with a frameless cabinet. I don't think once this is glued up that it will rack in any direction on me.

it is self squaring
I stopped here and left this as is. I am leaning towards just gluing this together without any fasteners.  I don't know if that is going to fly but I'll think about it and decide tomorrow.

got the brass adjuster knob off
Used vise grips to clamp down on the towel so I wouldn't deform the threads.

the threads are good
Other then getting some towel fibers in them but it survived the vise grip clamping.

it's bent
I cleaned up the threads and tried to run the adjuster knob up and down and no dice. It hung up on the stud no matter what I tried to do to advance the knob up/down.

I had a replacement stud
I worked the adjuster up/down on the stud easily. This is one thing that I thought I would never have to replace. I wonder how this stud got bent?. It isn't much but enough to interfere with the movement of the adjuster.

I took it out because I'll be painting this and having it off will make it easier.

As of now I am planning on one large drawer and a sliding tray on the bottom with a door. I think I can get everything in the cabinet that I want too.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that in Boulder City, Nevada gambling is not legal?

Big announcement!!

Anne of All Trades - Mon, 01/15/2018 - 1:44pm
Oak chest front.JPG

I'm super excited to announce that I've been asked to start contributing to Marc Spagnuolo's Wood Whisperer Guild. The plans for my first guild project are on pre-sale now. This is an expansion of the Oak Writing Desk project I built with Jonathan Schwennessen at Homestead Heritage in Texas for Furniture and Cabinet Making Magazine Issue 248 last year. Click here to view and purchase: https://thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/writing-desk/  Marc will be flying up to the farm to document our first video plan project together, and it promises to be a fantastic time and a wonderful build. I'm really excited to share in an in-depth, detailed, well-documented manner more about the projects I take on. 


Oak Chest back.jpg

A Lesson in Coping – How to Join Trim

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 01/15/2018 - 12:54pm

I’ve long been struck by the aptness of our English word “cope” – “I just can’t cope,” “I’m barely coping” – in light of its meaning in a woodworker’s lexicon. Sure, some of us may use the word when describing our emotional state, but more often we use it to denote a technique for joining two pieces of trim or molding where they meet at an inside corner. There’s nothing wrong […]

The post A Lesson in Coping – How to Join Trim appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Bowsaws, The Next Frontier

The Barn on White Run - Mon, 01/15/2018 - 6:00am

While visiting Mark Harrell recently our conversation returned to a topic we had engaged in previously, namely that of the repertoire of saws in an 18th century Parisian workshop.  Whatever they had, Mark wants to try to make it.

The literary evidence is pretty clear that the workhorse saws in these shops were frame saws for much of the heavy dimensioning (ripping) work and bow saws for the rest, including joinery.  (Roubo makes no references to back saws)  We might tend to see bow saws as a northern implement, coming from Scandinavian and Germanic traditions, but Roubo places inordinate emphasis on their use and utility in the Paris of his time.

The variations within this theme are many, but at present I am trying to brainstorm about adapting Roubo’s images and descriptions to the tasks of a workshop in 2018.  I am starting from the premise that the saw plate Mark developed for the frame saw should serve equally well in a bow saw with the plate fixed parallel to the plane of the frame.  With that in mind I have been noodling the designs and begun replicating at least one of a pair of Roubo bowsaws (the other being a compass or “turning” saw, so noted as having a shallow blade that can both follow a curved cut and be rotated in the bow handle for greater facility) in time for demonstrating at CW next week.

Hoping for success.  Wish me luck.

got the spokeshave finished.......

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 01/15/2018 - 2:39am
For my sunday morning routine I had to go a different McDonalds for breakfast. The one 3 blocks from my house is being renovated so I had to travel almost to the end of Warwick Ave to the 24hr McDonalds. At oh dark thirty there aren't a lot of places open to get something to eat in my part of the universe. It was also 17°F (-8.3°C) so I had to eat there. It's a 12 minute ride from my house so it would have been stone cold by time I got home.

I had to do some errands and for those I had to wait until 0800 for Lowes to open and then 0900 for BJ's to open. While I was waiting for Mickey's big hand to move I did my laundry and some shellac work. I still get agitated when I have to hurry up and wait but doing something helps to calm me down. Getting the Preston chamfer spokeshave done was the only thing I was able to check off in the C column.

shellac for the 78 box
I got three coats of shellac on the box on saturday before and after supper. This morning I hit the box with steel wool and by the end of the day I had put on 4 more coats.

my Lowes haul
I snagged the last bottle of rapid fuse glue. I like this glue a lot but the last couple times I've been to Lowes it wasn't on the shelf.  The gorilla glue is for gluing the broken tote on the spare parts #4. The electrician's tape is for 'clamping' the tote. This is what the Plane Collector uses so I'm trying it too. I got three 3/4" x 2 foot by 2 foot luan plywood panels for $7 and change each. The last goodie from Lowes was a pkg of 6mm washers.

it's a good fit - thumbscrew from the Preston chamfer spokeshave
It was less then a buck for a pkg of 8. For Lowes it must be a mistake as they charge ridiculous prices for hardware.

two pieces of 1/2" plywood
The plan is to use these for the top and bottom of the cabinet.

preview of the cabinet
I am thinking of trying to make a European style cabinet. After seeing this I'm not sure I want to do that. I like face frames on my cabinets. Either with or without a face frame, I will still use the 1/2" plywood as intended.

about 27" off the deck
about 32" where it will live
I will be putting a tray on the top of this. There is a shelf and drawer here that I'm taking out and putting the contents of them in the cabinet. The drawer stuff will go in the topside tray, the chisels in a drawer, and the saws will be hung on the side of the cabinet.

all of my tool boxes from under the laundry table
The height of the tallest stack of boxes is a little over 12". The bottom right hand box holds my Lee Valley rabbet plane and it is a problem.

I'll have to make a smaller box for this
this will be going away finally
I will be putting the Record 043 plow plane box in the new cabinet. That will free up some space for a couple of new woodies in my molding plane till.

gluing up the tote
I dropped the tote and that oops gave me two parts. I am trying to figure out how I can screw this stud in to keep it aligned while I glue it.

The shortest stud I have is too long to be secured with two barrel nuts. I took one of the style of nuts I don't like and drilled a through hole in it.

I think this will work
I don't want this to be my clamp; just keep the tote aligned while the glue sets.

didn't work
As the two barrel nuts were tightened the tote shifted. Good idea but the execution killed it.

I had to drill two barrel nuts to act as spacers
I put the tote aside for now and I glued it up after lunch.

Both rods are close in size. The other one is 9.79mm and both are well undersized for a 10mm hole.

right side hole that the rod will go in
the plane body hole
my 10mm clock bit
It's a brad point bit and I need a drill bit. I tried to order a bit from Lee Valley but they only sell metric brad point bits. I couldn't find any metric drill bits on the website or in their latest catalog.

can't hurt
It isn't a deburring tool but it's all I got. This chamfering tool is chipped so I don't mind trying it on this.

still won't exit
I got the drill bit to go a little further after I used a rat tail file to remove a burr on the screw hole on the inside of the fence rod hole. I still couldn't get the drill bit to go into the hole from this side. This is all I can do with this for now. I'll order a 10mm drill bit from McMaster-Carr when I buy new 10mm rods.

I made this box in march and didn't put on any shellac
I used to not put any finish on my shop boxes but I now do. I don't know why I didn't shellac this one back then as I had started doing it way before than.

the first 078 plane box
 I'm going to keep this for the shop. I'll put some shellac on it and find a home for it.

Preston chamfer spokeshave done

back side
side view
the before pic
 All broken down and prepped for painting. I couldn't find the one I had of as I got it.

I'm not sure yet whether I'll give this Miles or keep it for myself. The only problem I have with it is there aren't any irons for it. I've been looking for one since I got it. As a chamfering tool this works very well. The fact that it is adjustable makes it a very versatile tool so maybe I should give it to Miles. It would be a relatively safe tool for him to use even at a young age.

gluing the tote up
3 pieces of tape applied
Theses three have closed up the seam and it appears to be holding. I left it like this while I made a head break and when I came back it was still together. It had not shifted and the two parts were still tight together. I put on more tape and set it by the furnace to set up overnight.

the cabinet footprint
The size of this is 22 5/8" front to back and 24 3/4" side to side. The cabinet will be no larger than this.

a lot of damage here
I am still going to try and use this for the bottom of the cabinet. I can't work around it and it will be part of the bottom somewhere. I'll try to keep it towards the back of the cabinet.

2nd piece of plywood
It is too short. I played around with it trying to maximize it but I think I'll end up buying a new quarter sheet. Maybe I can use this to make the sliding tray and the drawer.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Pinocchio had two pets named Figaro (cat) and Cleo (goldfish)?

Wood Movement

MVFlaim Furnituremaker - Sun, 01/14/2018 - 4:09pm

Over the past few months, I’ve been making these Ohio signs and selling them in my wife’s booth. They’re a simple thing  to make. Just cut the wood in the shape of Ohio, then glue and staple the pieces to a plywood back. Originally I used old pallet wood to make the signs, but the past few batches I made them with old fence boards.


Last week, when I was helping my wife moving things around in her booth, she told me that some of the signs had warped. Worried, I grabbed a few of the signs to look at them. Because we had such a hard cold spell, the antique store was kicking up heat to stay warm. Apparently, the dry heat sucked all the moisture from the signs making them bend up. Even the top of an old bench my wife was selling warped.


When examining the sign, I realized I made two rookie mistakes. The first mistake I made was that I painted the wrong side of the fence board. I should have fastened the wood crown-down so that the board wouldn’t warp upward. The second mistake I made was that when I fastened the boards on the plywood, I spread glue all over the plywood back making the wood unable to expanded and contracted. Embarrassing to admit I know. When I first made these signs, I made them from old pallet wood that was a lot narrower than the wide fence board I used here. I thought my wood was dry enough to make them in the same process, but I was sorely mistaken.


Wanting to fix the sign, I ripped apart the plywood back and removed all the staples from the wood.


After cleaning the back of the pieces, I saw how the widest board on the sign was warping in conjunction with the others.



I decided to shave off the high spot in the middle with my scrub plane so the warping wouldn’t be as noticeable when I remade the sign.


Then, instead of spreading glue all over the plywood back, I laid a bead of glue down the center of each piece of wood so the wood could move. I then attached the plywood back to the pieces with 1/4″ crown 5/8″ long staples.


With everything back together, I was happy how the sign laid flat again. I really don’t mind if the boards warp a little bit. After all, the sign is supposed to look old and rustic. I just don’t want the whole thing to curl.


Join Profiled Parts in SketchUp

Bob Lang's ReadWatchDo - Sun, 01/14/2018 - 11:58am
I don’t mind answering questions from readers, because good questions often become useful blog posts. In this instance, the question wasn’t quite clear so I’m showing two solutions. One way to solve problems in SketchUp is to consider how it Continue reading →
Categories: General Woodworking


The Barn on White Run - Sun, 01/14/2018 - 7:01am

This giant banner at Bad Axe Toolworks made me laugh out loud.  You know Roubo is catching on when the yardstick for a tool is its ability to cut the dovetailed leg tenons for a Plate 11 workbench.

this is strange.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 01/14/2018 - 2:14am
Still in a bit of shock about what I found with my plow planes, especially so with the Record 044. I got a few comments on that post and Steve made one that I looked into.  He suggested that I check the fit of the record 044 fence rod holes with a 10mm drill bit. I did that and I was surprised by what I found.

It looks to be about the same size as the fence rods
Fits like a hand in a glove. Almost no slop and no wiggle at all. A couple maybes here. This is a Frankenstein plow that was missing it's original rods and there were substituted from a Stanley. They came with the original plow but it had been caught in the switch from imperial to metric. Sloppy QA? I think even allowing for machining tolerances, the rods I have now are undersized.

The drill only goes in up to about where the screw is and no further. I didn't think to check and see if the screw captured what was in there.

won't fit
It is the same in both holes. No go, no fit, and this sucks. Why won't it fit and pass all the way through? And why can't I insert it on this side of the hole? Maybe this was used to size the rods that came with this plow?

I looked up 10mm rod stock on McMaster-Carr (another tip from Steve) and they have a lot of choices. They have chrome plated rods starting in 1 foot increments. I would like to get that but I'm not sure I have anything capable of cutting it. My second choice is 10mm A2 steel rod that I can get in a 5 1/8" long length. That should be good enough to use for fence rods. But first I'll have to fix the no passing through the hole annoyance.

both ends beveled - Stanley 078 box
I would like to write that I did this on purpose to see what it looked like. Or that I beveled it because the lid was proud of the top of the box and I didn't want to thin the lid. What happened was I wasn't paying attention and I beveled the wrong end. Ending on a positive note, I was curious about doing a double ended bevel. Now I'm no longer curious.

scraps on found on the deck to fill the gap
The left one is too thin but the bigger one is just right on this end.

it fell inside
I cut and fitted the filler but it got pushed into the box when I slid the lid in. There will be a line here from that but I think that is a better choice than this gap.

time to see if everything will fit
I will have to take this down to parade rest and put each part in the box separately.

everything fits and I can close the lid
I don't like all the parts flopping around
won't fit - needs to be trimmed a wee bit
This will keep the plane from shifting and moving in the box.

part one for the fence rod holder
I bought some more fence rods and I'll need a place in the box to keep them secure.

part #2
This piece of 1/8" plywood will be the back of the fence rod holder.

glued and cooking
I glued the holders to the 1/8" plywood and I'll glue the 1/8 plywood to the box once it has set up.

holder for the fence
The slot in the front is where the 90 on the fence is and there is a rabbet on the back. The fence has to be stowed horizontally.

the side of the box will be the back of the rabbet
glued in place
glad I checked it
The plane will only fit in the box this way with the handle insert. I had to move the fence holder over to the left.

making a holder for the depth stop
I made the round cutout at the top with my knife and a chisel. The R/L rounded curves at the bottom I also did mostly with my knife and some clean up work with a 1/4" chisel.

almost done
A little tighter on the top left than I would like but it works. A couple coats of shellac and then I can call it 100% done.

Stanley 131B came today
It's a monster size ratcheting driver. This has a lot of weight and mass to it. I could probably use it to defend myself if the zombie apocalypse happens.

I thought the Craftsman one was big
I found out that the Craftsman driver was made for Sears by Miller Falls. Still not crazy about the plastic handle but I do like it other than that.

holder I put on hold
This was for the Craftsman but I decided to wait until I got the Stanley. The Stanley ate a lot of Wheaties and is too big for it. I'll toss these parts in the scrap box.

difference in the drivers
The Stanley only came with the flat driver and the business end that holds it in the screwdriver is different than the Craftsman one.

kind of fits
The phillips bit is in the Stanley and it won't come out. I didn't try driving a screw with it.

it wiggles and moves a bit
The diameter of the phillips bit is smaller than the Stanley bit. I think the Stanley is 5/16" if I remember it right and the Craftsman is a 1/4".

not getting done today
I will have to touch up the paint some in a few spots. I lost some when I sanded the faces.

body done and the wings were last
#4 plane totes
The original one is the far left one with the middle and far right ones being my spares. The spares fit but I wont be using them. The middle one is larger than the original ones as is the right one too.

middle one
It is rosewood but I'm not sure what the finish or what is on it. It is thick, hard, and shiny. I'm betting on it being epoxy. Guess number two would be lacquer but I don't have lacquer thinner to test on this.

the last one
I had forgotten about this tote. Someone had made the hole for the barrel nut deeper than what it should have been. I don't know why that was done? They compensated for that by putting a billion washers under the nut to make up depth. I shitcanned the washers and put a wooden dowel in their place. This will probably never be used but it could work as replacement until a more suitable one is found.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that President James K Polk was the first president to be photographed?

Warehouse Sale at Bridge City! Build a Brass and Rosewood Try Square

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sun, 01/14/2018 - 2:00am

Editor’s note: This article ran in the October 2011 issue of PWM and we are resurfacing it because John is clearing out some bins of blanks in a warehouse sale on his site. I’ve included part of the article here and the build is detailed in the PDF of the issue. This is not a sponsored post, we just wanted to share a great article that paired with his sale […]

The post Warehouse Sale at Bridge City! Build a Brass and Rosewood Try Square appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Not Your Daughter’s Cradle. Or Son’s.

The Furniture Record - Sat, 01/13/2018 - 2:34pm

I saw this interesting cradle at an auction recently:

American Primitive Cherry Cradle


This lot has sold for $80.

Description: 19th century, two part form, dovetailed cradle with iron rod swing supports on a boot-jack foot base with metal handles.

Size: 32 x 40 x 15 in.

Condition: Later metal handles; surface scratches; small shrinkage cracks.


Through tenons on the stretchers, not that interesting.

What is more interesting it the method of suspension of the cradle body:


Suspended by a pair of hand-forged hooked metal discs.


Another view showing a metal bearing driven in to the stand.

What was confusing was the description of this being a “dovetailed cradle”. I believe that I am eminently qualified to find dovetails, yet I found none. Look at the cradle for yourself:


If there were dovetails, they would be here.

P1010873 - Version 2

There be nails and split wood but no dovetails. Unless they are really thin pins. Typical of all four corners.

I am truly disturbed by the apparent discrepancy between the written and the observed. I know that the people that write auction descriptions are highly trained experts that in many states are licensed or certified. Believe me. I am starting to believe that the fault is in me. The dovetails are there and I just can’t see them. I hope that’s the case. I would hate to see someone lose the job over this…

Making a Chair from a Tree

Anne of All Trades - Sat, 01/13/2018 - 8:55am

Building a Windsor-style rocking chair with Greg Pennington at Pennington Windsor Chairs was, to date, my favorite woodworking project. It opened up a new, very physical, very engaging side of woodworking I hadn’t before experienced. I loved using a wedge and sledge hammer to split the tree. Not only did it make me feel strong, it also helped me to better understand how wood works and how to get the most strength possible out of a single piece of wood.


Making a chair is, I think for most woodworkers, a major benchmark for progression in their craft. Having seen the Patriot, and being quite comfortable in the realms of square furniture, I really had no intention of ever making a chair. It seemed like it was a whole other skill and toolset than I currently possessed, and I am always wary of casting my net too widely and bringing no genuine knowledge or practiced skill to a craft. As they say, a jack of all trades is a master of none! That is- until I was offered the chance to take a class with some of my dearest friends in the shop of renown chairmaking instructor Greg Pennington.


For me, woodwork has always been motivated far more by relationship than by finished projects. I’ve found the best way to get to know people deeply is by joining them doing something they truly love. My journey as a woodworker started at my grandfather’s workbench. He was a pretty quiet guy most of the time, but he came alive in his woodworking shop. I loved my grandpa, and spending time with him meant spending time pulling and straightening nails, sweeping sweet cedar shavings off his shop floor, or just watching him work. After my grandfather’s passing, when I was twelve my love for woodworking was re-awakened just a six years ago as a way to spend time hanging out at my sister’s house and getting to know my new brother-in-law as he taught me about using handtools to build furniture. Woodworking then became the connection point for another precious older gentleman, 97 years young, who would go on to become an adopted grandpa of sorts  and mentor me further. Then I found the maker community on Instagram, which opened up a whole other world of deep frienships with other folks passionate about making things with their hands. I met leather workers, farmers, musicians and blacksmiths, and my desire to see their eyes light up when talking about something they truly loved led me to start tinkering in those crafts as well.


I mention all this because yes, I built a chair, and yes, sitting and rocking in a chair I quite literally found within a tree stump in just a matter of weeks with a few handtools feels pretty awesome, but far more awesome was spending a week learning from a master. Greg loves what he does, and his eyes sparkle when he talks about every step and technique that bring an heirloom quality chair out of a fallen oak tree. The week I spent in Nashville at Greg’s school was quite literally one of the best weeks of my life. Greg was an incredibly patient and skilled instructor. We worked hard with our hands, we talked about everything under the sun, we drank beer, and we laughed until our ribs were sore. And, at the end of it all, somehow, I’d become a better woodworker with a greater understanding of how wood works, and I got to bring home a chair.


This project involved a lot of firsts for me, first time using a shavehorse for it’s intended purpose, which was especially helpful a few weeks later when it came time to build several for the woodworking school I work at. It was my first time riving wood, and I learned about how to predict and correct for grain runout. I learned how to properly use a spokeshave, how to be braver when roughing out stock because it results in so much LESS work later, how to turn square stock into an octagon and then round, and how to drill compound angles with space lasers. I got way more creative with securing round stock in vises designed to hold square stock, I learned how to make and use wedges effectively, and I confirmed that the sanding and finishing process of a chair is just as miserable and loathsome a task with chairmaking as it is with every other woodworking I’ve done in the past.


One thing I really liked about chairmaking is how many of the tools can be made with some rudimentary knowledge of blacksmithing. So, of course, as is always the case for me, In completing this project, I somehow added about fifteen others to the “someday” list, so look for those in the coming months and weeks.

Check out my new YouTube video on my chairmaking experience by clicking below!

**Photos in this article are by Fell Merwin, and by Melissa Morrison**


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