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If and when you make a woodworking bench, and you decide that it needs a tool tray, somehow it seems to draw people out of the…woodwork. Some of the people lurking in the woodwork may be completely normal, and some may be completely wacked. Either way, for whatever reason, when you combine a woodworking bench and a tool tray, it somehow, some way, gets other woodworkers all worked up. When I mentioned a few weeks ago that I was adding a tool tray to my workbench I got a little bit of backlash over it. I didn’t necessarily care. Once I make up my mind to do something, there are few people who can change it; so I went ahead and added the tool tray without regrets. According to my calculations, a tool tray would not affect my woodworking or the functionality of the workbench in any way, shape, or form, but that was all in theory. This past weekend was the first time I actually used the “new” bench.
Before I go on, I have to say that the tool tray I added to the bench probably represents the worst woodworking I’ve done in years. The tray is not truly square to the bench, the back sits lower than it should, making it worthless for support, and the boards I used were not all that great, meaning they were bowed and had slight warp. Another thing; the way I attached the tray to the bench is not all that great, either. Had I built the tray into the top when I first made the bench (like I should have done), it would have turned out much more nicely. My retrofit was not technically sound. At that, I have absolutely no fear of it becoming loose or unattached, or even “sinking”, but what I really should do is add another support board along the back to connect all three sections of the tray, that, however, is another story. Anyway, with all of the negative aspects of the tray out of the way, I am happy to say that the bench performed just fine.
Sunday morning I had a few simple things that needed to be done at the bench, which included sawing a board to length and boring two holes in it. The bench worked fine. I had no holding issues, no support issues, or no clamping issues. Like I said many times before, I woodwork almost exclusively on the front 12 inches of the bench. My new bench top is effectively 17 inches wide, that is more than enough for what I do. I do not assemble furniture on the bench, and if I may be so bold, I do not recommend anybody else doing it either. Workbenches are fine for assembling drawers, small boxes, frames, and certain sub-assemblies, but they suck for full scale work. Most workbenches are too tall to use for assembling larger furniture, that is unless you like working off of a step ladder; I don’t. If you are like me, and decide that you are not going to use your benchtop for assembly, you do not need the traditional 24-30 inch wide top, though at the same time it certainly can’t hurt having it. I sacrificed width for a tool tray, and on my first attempt at using it I was successful. For example, when I finished sawing the board to length, I placed the backsaw neatly in the middle tray, where it sat at arms length, yet completely out of the way of my work. The same thing can be said of the brace and bit I used, once I was finished with them they went right into the tray, out of the way but ready to be used at a moments notice. I call that a success.
The bench top still needs a little work. I currently have a row of just four dog holes; that row probably needs to be expanded to at least seven holes, or possibly nine. I also plan on once again adding the base to my Kreg Clamp. The Kreg clamp works great, and is easy to remove when not needed. Once those minor modifications are made, I will use the bench as normal and do a little more evaluating. At the moment I can’t see myself doing much more to the bench. I’ve had nearly four years to figure out what I like in a workbench, and I described those things in detail on several other blog posts. I went the tool tray route with my bench, though it seems that few other woodworkers use them anymore, just because that’s the trend I guess. I don’t like following trends to be honest; I like to think for myself, I like to discover things for myself. I like the road less traveled by, and so far that has made all the difference.
Moving is a good time to sort junk & throw out some stuff. Moving the shop is no exception. I got to the small bookcase & sifted through some magazines…I had long intended to go through the back issues of Antiques & Fine Art and snip out the photos and articles that might be useful, and ditch the rest. I can save 2 feet of shelf space by doing just that. I ran across this advertisement from a 2004 issue of the magazine:
I had never seen this box before it appeared in this ad…and I have never seen it otherwise for that matter. But to me, it resembles the work in the cupboard at the MFA that I worked on some years ago. http://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/?s=MFA+cupboard
To review that project – the MFA owns a 1680s/90s cupboard base. They asked me to make a top to go with it, but worked to look “as new.” It was a great project, one in which I had lots of help from their conservation people and those at Winterthur Museum as well. Here’s my result, before it was installed at the MFA.
To get to that, we studied the related objects. In all, we only knew of 4 pieces from this un-identified shop. Here they are:
First is the MFA cupboard base. The top drawer is carved on a shaped drawer front applique – and the stiles are carved below this drawer. Plus false muntins on the 2nd & 3rd drawers. Highlighted w paint.
The chest wth drawers at Concord (MA) Museum is a great example of this guy’s work. It’s all kinds of weird in its construction, but the carving and paint are immediately recognized.
A detail of the carving:
This old photo of the cupboard head at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in NY shows what was left c. 1900 or so. They had the base too, but this one I cropped when I was studying the cupboard’s upper case.
The box at Winterthur is a fine example, I especially like its small size. It’s dated in paint on the side, I think it’s 1698.
You might remember one of my interpretations of this box just the other day:
When I ran across the photo at the top of this page in the shop today, I started to make out in my head how to lay it out…within a few minutes I figured it would be quicker & easier just to lay it out on wood & carve it. so I did.
I tilted the board a bit, to try to show the layout scribed w a compass…it’s a bit hard to pick out. But it’s there.
What fun! Once I got that out of my system, I went back to sorting & cleaning.
While getting ready for the big move of shop machinery this coming weekend — packing, sorting, throwing out, and disassembling — while packing I was reminded of this snazzy little ultra low-tech air scrubber I built for the basement shop several years ago. Since my shop is directly under the living space of the house, and I am a varnish and glue sorta guy, my need for odor control was pretty prominent. I came up with several solutions, ranging from dealing with small amounts of fumes through the need for spray finishing when the need arises.
This little beauty is one I built for the control of the nuisance fumes attendant to using hot hide glue and solvent based coatings systems. It took about fifteen minutes to make, and works so well that I have never received a complaint about basement stink.
Here is all you need to make this air scrubber, which can perform flawlessly for pretty much the rest of your life.
1 recycled computer fan
1 cardboard box about the size of a cube slightly larger than the fan frame
1 salvaged power cord (I routinely snip and salvage the power cords from EVERYTHING that gets tossed around here, it’s a circle of life thing)
1 piece of scrap plywood the size of the box
a jar of clean activated charcoal aquarium filter medium
a hot melt glue gun and a few screws and bolts, etc.
some scraps of metal window screen
First place the fan against the top or bottom of the box, mark and cut a hole the size of the fan blade.
Cut a piece of the metal window screen to fit over this opening, and glue it in place with the hot melt adhesive.
Since I wanted a down draft unit, I attached the fan to the box to cover the opening such that the fan is blowing into the box. I used small nuts-and-bolts from the box of miscellaneous fastners. Using a recycled power cord I wired it up. (my fan is a bit askew because I dropped the unit several years ago and the bolts pulled out, and I did not have another box the right size at the moment, hence the new orientation with new bolt holes)
Cut the scrap plywood to fit the opening of the box, and drill a series of holes to allow air flow. Glue a piece of the window screen to one side of the plywood so that all the holes are covered.
As my scrubbing medium I used aquarium filter activated charcoal purchased at a local pet store. I poured some of this into a pasta screen to allow the littlest pieces to fall out. The remaining charcoal, beginning with the size of rice grains and larger will be used as my air-scrubbing medium.
I turned the box over so that the fan was on the bottom and filled it with the activated charcoal. After shaking it gently a bit, I dropped the plywood square into place and pinned it there with some small screws. I cut out some openings to make four legs and four air channels for the downdraft flow, and the unit was finished.
The unit works well at scrubbing nuisance odors out of the air 24/7/365. this one has been providing yeoman’s service for almost ten years, although I swap out the charcoal every year or so. I especially like the fact that at about 1 pound I can pick it up and move it to wherever I am working with small amounts of solvents or the like. for example, when I am polishing metals or tortoiseshell I simply place the scrubber on the bench right next to where I am working, and don’t even need a fume mask.
Will it keep the living room from stinking if you are using gallons of paint remover in the basement? I’m guessing the answer would be a NO! But for ongoing odors from shellacking, gluing, polishing, and a little spot spraying with aerosol, it works fine for me. More intensive applications require a larger unit I will write about soon.
For the past few weeks, our bloggers have been hard at work in their woodworking shops. Not only are they working on their gifts for friends and family this holiday season, but they have also been working on their 2013 Holiday Woodworking Tool Wish Lists. In case you are still working on yours (or haven’t even started), here are a few of our own wish lists. And don’t forget to make your own woodworking wish list on our website by CLICKING HERE.
Today we’ve got our new Product Tour Guide video host, Chris Adkins wish list:
It is that time of year again when my wife hands me a Highland catalog and tells me to start circling what I would like to have under the tree this year. Now chances are I won’t find them all parked in my living room floor this Christmas morning but it gives me a great chance to reflect on what tools I think my shop could benefit from.
Here is a list of 5 products that mark the top of my list:
1. Auriou Rasps – When looking for design inspiration I find that anything without straight lines gets my attention first. Shaping and curves gives a project the next step in creativity and a good quality rasp a great way to get there. Auriou Rasps are hand cut and designed to cut fast and leave a smooth surface.
2. Scott Meek Smoothing Plane – Scott is not only a good friend of mine but a very talented plane maker. His planes have taken wooden hand planes to the next level with craftsmanship and beauty.
3. Hirsch Carving Tools – I have often said that I don’t consider myself a carver although I have carved several pieces. I have a few Hirsch carving tools but was inspired at Woodworking in America this year to try a few new techniques. So a few more carving chisels wouldn’t hurt.
4. Festool TS 55 REQ Plunge Cut Track Saw – One of the down falls about working in a shop small shop by yourself is that it is often difficult to handle large stock. A track saw is a great way to break down sheet stock but also for cutting things like table tops that can be too hard to handle on your own.
5. Sawstop 10” Professional Cabinet Saw – I have had a few opportunities to use the saw at Highland over the past few months and have been very impressed with how well it preforms. I have used an older table saw for years and it has worked great but I can see an upgrade in the future. Not to mention the fact that my wife appreciates the safety so that I keep all of my digits.
The post 2013 Holiday Woodworking Tool Wish List – Christopher Adkins appeared first on Woodworking Blog.
Brian Denmeade, of Columbiana, Ohio, is the lucky winner of a Festool Kapex compound miter saw and Festool CT 26 dust extractor. Brian has been woodworking for 35 years; he enjoys making furniture for his family. You can see a small sample of his work below. Congratulations to Brian.
A few notes from the shop – it turns out I will not have any more spoons for sale this month. A couple of people wrote & ordered some, and those I have just about done. But I decided not to tackle more. It was getting too hectic, and I have enough to grapple, cleaning out this stuff.
I will have one more carved framed panel, if anyone is interested. I cut the frame at the Lie-Nielsen event at Phil Lowe’s the other day…so I just have to clean it up a bit, and take proper photographs.
Meanwhile, the best day in the shop in ages was Sunday, Daniel came back. Can’t say too much, he’s making a Xmas present. But we had a great time. Being in the public eye 8 months out of the year means the kids only get to the shop during the 0ff-season. So we’re making the most of it right now.
Then, this red-bellied woodpecker sat right out the upstairs window at home. You can tell he’s a red-bellied, because the red head is not all-over. I didn’t name these creatures…in the last shot you can actually see a smudge of red down near his nether parts. That’s where his name comes from. His belly is mostly white, with a streak of red. a faint streak.
I’ll be posting my teaching schedule for 2014 soon. It’s a busy one…
The latest issue of Popular Woodworking magazine strangely sat unread in my living room since it arrived nearly two weeks ago. It’s not that I didn’t want to read it, because when it arrived I quickly scanned through it. Usually when I get a new issue I will do one of two things; either read it right away or bring it to work to read during break. Neither of those things happened this time around. I was very busy leading into Thanksgiving, and then I got sick. When I say I’m sick, it isn’t “mommy I have a tummy ache” sick. I was laid up for nearly 5 days with the flu. I even missed two days of work, which almost never happens. So during that stretch I didn’t do much of anything, let alone read a magazine. So yesterday afternoon after football, and today during my break at work, I read the latest Popular Woodworking cover to cover. My impression? Another extremely good issue.
You may ask, what happened to the angry, foul-mouthed, vitriolic, cynical guy who used to write this blog? Nothing, I’m still mostly here. The truth is, I don’t suck-up much. It’s not me and it doesn’t look good on me, but, I am all for giving credit. Frankly, Popular Woodworking has been great over the past six months. In fact, when I did my magazine review post I had it second to Woodsmith. I still like Woodsmith a lot, but PW may now be at the top of my rankings. I’ve said this before, but I nearly let my subscription expire last year. I am glad that I didn’t. Both the old and new staff are doing a great job, and Christopher Schwarz, love him or hate him, is contributing more to the magazine with some very good projects and woodworking profiles. The best part is that I know that it can and will improve even more, you can almost see it coming.
There were several really good sections in the latest issue. The first thing that caught my eye was a pretty ingenious little idea in the tips and tricks section for a saw till. Roy Underhill’s article about combination planes is another winner, as is Christopher Schwarz’s profile of Australian tool maker, Chris Vesper. Vesper seems like a very nice guy, but he can’t seem to figure out why he can’t find a girlfriend even though he basically lives in a shed that doesn’t have indoor plumbing behind his parent’s house, which it also seems is somewhere in the middle of nowhere. He may make world-class tools, but he doesn’t know squat about women. Anyway, my favorite article is by Glen Huey, and is about lock hardware. Though I am no locksmith, I always enjoyed the inner workings of a lock, and this article sheds some light on that subject. Not only that, it introduces some lock terminology, which is always nice to know when you are planning on adding a lock to your work.
So, at the risk of once again royally sucking up, I have to say that Popular Woodworking magazine has published another great issue (Dec 2013 #208 if you need to know) If you haven’t checked it out, please do. I’ll be honest, I only read two woodworking magazines anymore, and both have been great. I’m having trouble finding stuff to complain about, which I’m finding to be upsetting. In all seriousness, PW continues to do some really good things, and if I have the right to criticize, I should also have the responsibility of praising when it deserves praise. For the last six months, Popular Woodworking magazine certainly has deserved all of the praise I’ve given it. If you are a woodworker, and you aren’t reading it, I really think you should start.
Goose-neck mouldings are, in my opinion, the great equalizer in any discussion of moulding planes or power tools for curved designs. Sure straight runs of moulding can be made using hollows and rounds, but the curved mouldings are a completely different animal. With goose-necks, you better be thinking kindly about a router, router table or shaper. And, you probably should have a selection of carving tools if your design has a rosette and doesn’t return on itself (as shown in the above photo).
Of course, the Egerton clock has rosettes. This translates into more hand work using carving chisel. But the bulk of the waste is removed with power tools. You just need to find the correct profile, and that can be tricky as you flip and turn the profile looking for a match, especially if you’re using bearing mounted router bits. (I’m tossing out shaper work, because most woodworkers are not working with a shaper – router tables have all but replaced the shaper in home shops.)
The best way to run these profiles using a router is with the face of the goose-neck moulding facing up. To do that you need an over-arm pin router setup, or you need to create a method to hold your router above the workpiece as you guide the cut, as shown to the left. This setup uses the guide-fence holes and scrap pieces to raise the router cut abilities. The setup is easy to duplicate, but using the arrangement is not that simple. You need to accurately guide the router along the curved lines of the goose-neck while holding things at 90° to the workpiece. Slow and steady wins the race, but even then you have clean-up work to do. It is much better if you can use bearing-mounted router bits. To do that in this scenario, I had to run at my router table, keeping the face of the mouldings against the table.
The problem with bearing-mounted router bits is reach. On wide goose-neck mouldings, you often cannot reach back into the profile enough to make things work. On the Egerton moulding, though, that’s not a problem because it’s only 7/8″ wide. I was able to use the bearings on my router bits of choice to get the job done, so the first bit used was a cove design for raised panels. That router bit allowed me to reach back 3/4″ of the 7/8″ needed – that left an 1/8″ of flat at the top edge of my profile. On the straight runs, cut from end to end. On the curved work, you need to stop just short of the rosette area.
The second profile I used was a simple 1/4″ round-over bit, but I switched out the normal bearing to use one that was a 1/8″ smaller in diameter. That change moved the round-over profile in slightly on the workpiece. Height adjustments need to be accurate. Because I was looking to flow the second profile into the larger cove cut, I found it best to sneak up on the final setting. I could have stopped at this point, but the square edge left after the second router cut was smaller than what I saw on the original clock profile. I wanted more.
Deciding to make the last router-bit cut added the needed square-edge to my profile, but it also caused more work after routing work was complete. To achieve an additional 1/16″ of square edge for an 1/8″ total, I used a rabbet bit to push the design up into the moulding. That cut removed a lot of the round-over profile, but that would be easy to replace with carving tools, and the extra square edge made the design of my goose-neck more in line with the original.
To complete the mouldings, both the curved and straight pieces, I use a couple carving gouges to re-round the profile. Work on the straight pieces was easy. I found and carved with the grain direction. On the curved pieces, carving required that I move in different directions due to the grain changing as the curves undulated. Even with that need, the work was not difficult.
Next week I’ll show the completed and installed goose-neck moulding with the carved rosettes in place. I’m getting close to finished.
Build Something Great!
A couple of years ago, I was called by Dan Hellmuth of Hellmuth and Bicknesse Architects to work on a new green building that they were designing. I had worked with Dan previously on Washington University’s Living Learning Center and was glad to hear from him again. For me, the new job was similar to the Living Learning Center – trees from the property were going to be milled and the lumber was going to be used to make finished products throughout the house. The new building wasn’t trying to be the greenest building in the U.S., like the Living Learning Center, but it was designed to be very energy efficient with structural insulated panels (SIPS) and geothermal heating and cooling.
The property had about 80 acres of forest comprised of eastern red cedar, oak and hickory, along with a sprinkling of sugar maple and ash. The best trees were white oaks in the 24″ diameter range, some of which had veneer-grade butt logs (which means they were perfect, straight-grained and knot free). Most of the trees were slightly lower-grade and smaller, but still nice. The smallest were the cedars, which are considered invasive and were scheduled to be removed.
My choice of logs to harvest was limited by the terrain, which ranged from hilly to mountainous. Only one inclined ridge allowed reasonable access to the better logs. The rest of the forest housed bigger trees that will probably never be cut – it is just too difficult to get the logs out. Even spots that looked reasonably flat were only so in relation to the steep drop-offs. Often it was so steep that I had trouble getting the Bobcat back up to the landing, even if I wasn’t moving a log.
Once I got the logs out and back to my mill, I cut them and either air-dried or kiln-dried the lumber depending on their final use (kiln-dried goes inside, air-dried goes outside). The white oak was used for the deck, the boat dock and interior doors. The cedar was slated to be used as siding for the house, but that was changed to reclaimed barn siding and the cedar was moved indoors to be flooring in the loft areas. The smaller amount of ash, maple and hickory haven’t been used yet and are waiting their turn, most likely for future furniture.
Interestingly enough, two areas of woodwork in the house that I am most proud of, did not use wood from the property. We built the entertainment center cabinets from a mix of the customer’s cherry and cherry that I provided, while we made the front and back doors from WunderWoods walnut.
Overall, the project is nearly complete (I am finishing up the wine cellar racks), and since I never remember to take photos, I thought it was about time.
Here are some photos I took last time I was there (click on any photo to enlarge and view the slideshow):
Special thanks to John Stevens and Dan Draper for their help on many aspects of the job. Also, thanks to Scott Allen and his crew, who took over the general contracting of the house and made sure I always had an extra hand when I needed it.
Read this from my friend Mike.
Surprised me too. So I’m not the only one whose Jennings bits clog and strip in really hard woods. Thank goodness for center bits. They’re so much simpler to understand .
The kids are the real creative ones around here. Us grownups try hard to keep up. While I have been fooling around with spoons and things, Maureen has been knitting away for a craft sale she’s participating in. Here are some knitted and felted bowls she finished the other night. If you drop these bowls, they don’t break!
It’s great to hear her needles clicking away again; when the kids were really small she didn’t get much chance to knit. Now they are learning too -
Here’s a couple more samples of Maureen’s recent output. and the flyer for the sale. It features work of many friends and others, so if you are near Plymouth, Massachusetts and inclined the dates and times are on the flyer. Starts today, Saturday December 7th. Dig it.
At work today I had to do a 600 amp, three-phase service lay out; they are fairly common in my line of work. The service consisted of a 75kva 480-120/208 transformer, a 600 amp MDP panel, a 600 amp 3R service disconnect, 3-200 amp 3R service disconnects, 3-200 amp MCB panels, 3-meters, and the kilowatt meter. A service of this size I can usually have laid-out and priced with the approval drawings in 20-30 minutes using a computer. If I have to do it by hand, which is very rare, it takes longer. You wouldn’t believe the questions I get concerning these services. People have no concept of how electricity works, and what it takes to distribute and meter it safely. I’m seeing this more and more.
Surely some of you reading this may say that I’m not being fair. After all, I’ve had nearly two years of schooling in electrical systems, 67 credit hours to be exact, not to mention on the job training and ten years of work experience; it should be expected and required of me to know more than the layman. Maybe. But there are books, videos, courses, etc. available to anybody who wants to learn more about electrical systems and how they function. It doesn’t take a whole lot of effort to learn the basics of electrical distribution. Electricity has been in widespread use for nearly one hundred years; the tools haven’t changed much; even the way it is generated has remained rather consistent. Surely the only things keeping the average person from learning about electricity, it’s uses, it’s generation, it’s equipment, and it’s tools are laziness and stupidity, aren’t they?
I know that some of you who read this probably are thinking that I am nothing more than a total jerk right about now. You may be wondering how I could be so presumptuous to assume that any person who doesn’t possess common knowledge of a skilled trade that requires years of schooling, practice, and on the job training must be nothing more than a lazy fool blissful in his own ignorance. You may be wondering how I could be so callous as to scoff at their questions concerning my trade. You may be wondering why I think it ridiculous for any person not to own a professional set of electrical tools. You may think that I am a creep because even though I do electrical work for a living, I expect people who are not exposed to it very often to have as much knowledge and skill as I do. You might think of me as nothing more than a complete A**hole to expect an amateur to dedicate all of his free time to learning about electricity, otherwise he is not worthy of the knowledge.
Now that I think about it, those of you who think those things may be absolutely correct. But I don’t mean to insult; I am just passionate. With all due respect, shouldn’t I expect everybody to be as passionate as I? Don’t I have a right to do that? I’m just doing my best to be an ambassador to the trade; is that wrong? I know that I get paid for my work in the trade, but shouldn’t I be able to expect the same level of dedication from those who want to learn about it just for fun in the little free time that they have? The bottom line is, I am only trying to get you people off your asses and show you just how rewarding electrical work can be. There’s nothing wrong with that, is there?
Of all the variables of design, context is the easiest to miss. That is one of the powerful things about using SketchUp, you can easily compare one piece to another, add a human figure to the model or place the piece in a room setting. Seeing is believing and knowing is better than guessing. Yesterday … Read more
This month we’ll take a look at Lie-Nielsen’s Large Shoulder Plane (073). This is the largest of their shoulder planes and weighs in at 4 lbs. The body of the 073 is made from durable Ductile Iron and measures 8-¼” long by 1-¼” wide. The body is ground very precisely so that each of the two reference sides is exactly square to the sole, as is necessary to create the standard shoulder to tenon relationship. The A2 Tool Steel blade is cryogenically treated, double tempered and is .140” thick and .005” wider than the body, so you can set the plane up with the blade slightly proud on both sides. This allows you to make lateral adjustments without the blade becoming inset on one side. If it is necessary for a specific cut, you can always register the blade flush on one side, but in general it is best to be proud on both. The blade comes with a 25 degree bevel and its bedding angle is 18 degrees. The lever cap is Bronze and along with providing both a good grip and additional mass, it is absolute eye candy. Even though there is significant difference in size between the three planes in this series, the operation and features are the same for each.
As a quick note, since I wrote about the sharpening and setup aspect of shoulder planes in another article earlier this year , I won’t bother including it in this article, too. There is one aspect of the sharpening portion that I’d like to update. While I still use my Kell sharpening guide presently, I plan to upgrade to Lie-Nielsen’s forthcoming sharpening guide. It is solidly and accurately made and can handle a wider range of blades than any I currently own.
The size and mass of the 073 are significant and beneficial. Years ago I purchased a Lie-Nielsen Medium Shoulder Plane, at that time thinking it would give me the best of both world’s (small and large). I would now opt for the Large Shoulder Plane if I were obtaining only one for my shop, as I find the mass helps the plane continue through the cut, once started. It also acts as if it wants to stay connected to the reference surface, but even if it does shift slightly, I think the feedback it provides is more obvious.
The shoulder plane can obviously address shoulders on tenons, create or increase the depth of rabbets, and both remove and clean up additional material from a dado, just to name a few operations. Depending on the operation, you may wish to have a nice tight mouth while taking a very fine shaving, or more readily remove a fair amount of wood and open the mouth for the thicker shaving.
It is extremely easy to adjust the “shoe” of the plane, which controls the mouth opening. The first step is to loosen the screw on top of the front section of the plane by turning it counter-clockwise by about half of a turn.
After loosening the shoe locking screw, turn the shoe adjustment screw on the toe of the plane to move the shoe. Turning this screw clockwise will bring the shoe towards the blade, closing the mouth opening. Turning the screw counter-clockwise will open the mouth. When closing the mouth, pay close attention to the blade, so you don’t accidentally hit it with the shoe. You don’t want to dull or damage the blade.
After setting the mouth to the desired opening, make sure to re-lock the shoe by turning the screw on top of the plane clockwise until snug. To limit any damage to the locking screw head, either use a Lie-Nielsen #4 screwdriver that fits the head precisely, or any other screwdriver with correct tip width and length so there is no slop.
For optimum results, make sure you keep the plane iron shaving sharp. I also like to apply a little paraffin to the bearing surface(s) (sole and potentially the side, too) to reduce the friction, which I find allows for better accuracy since less force is required through the cut.
Even if you already have one of the smaller versions of this shoulder plane (or others), I believe you’ll find this plane a welcome addition,
and you may just find it superseding its predecessor. There is just no way around it; this is one sweet plane!
I hope you enjoyed the article and please let me know if you have any questions or comments.
CLICK HERE to find out more information or to purchase the Lie-Nielsen Large Shoulder Plane (073).
The post December Lie-Nielsen Tool of the Month: Large Shoulder Plane (073) appeared first on Woodworking Blog.
As editors, we search our two web sites (popularwoodworking.com and shopwoodworking.com) constantly for information for the online extras portion of all articles and most columns – the information, we hope, is both relevant and interesting. While searching the sites, I often come across books, articles and DVDs that have scads of interesting information, including tips … Read more