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General Woodworking

How to Restore a Wooden Cutting Board

The Literary Workshop Blog - 4 hours 37 min ago

Wooden cutting boards are wonderful.  I wouldn’t be without them in my kitchen.  But over time, their surfaces get chewed up–especially if you keep your kitchen knives sharp.  A wooden cutting board can go years and years before its surface needs to be restored, but eventually it will be time to resurface it.

We were thinning out our camping gear a while ago, and we pulled out this sorry looking wooden cutting board.  The surface was just too nasty to put it to use in our kitchen.
“Well,” I thought, “I know what to do with this.”

Cutting Boards 2017

I set to work planing down each surface with my smoothing plane.  About two minutes later, the surface looked very different.

Cutting Boards 2017

The handplane leaves a glassy smooth surface, so no scraping or sanding was required.  The wood appears to be hard maple, which is very common in older wooden cutting boards.  It’s a tough wood–the same stuff they use for bowling alleys and basketball courts.  A handplane needs to be razor sharp to cut this wood effectively.  A closely-set chipbreaker also helps a lot.

Now, I realize that not everyone who has old wooden cutting boards also has a good handplane.  But if you’re the sort of person who does a lot of handyman projects around the house, I think it’s really helpful to have a handplane.  An old #4 or #5 Stanley is not hard to find used, and with a simple sharpening routine, you can keep the blade razor sharp.  (There are many good tutorials on YouTube and elsewhere.)  Just avoid the new-in-the-box handplanes at the big-box home improvement store.  They’re pretty much all junk.

So after I posted the above pictures to social media, I got a message from my mom.  Would I please bring my handplane next time I visit so I can resurface her cutting boards too?

Sure, Mom.  I’d love to.

Cutting Boards 2017

These are her cutting boards before I started work on them.  They had belonged to my grandmother, and I remember them being in our kitchen growing up.  In addition to the marks left from normal kitchen use, there were scoring marks from craft projects, as well some paint splatters and pinprick holes.  I had to remove quite a bit of material from each side, but when I was done, they looked pretty good.

Cutting Boards 2017

I not only resurfaced the working faces of each board, but I also scraped the grime off each end and edge with a card scraper.  When I brought the cutting boards back into the house, my Mom hardly recognized them.  But she was pretty happy with them.

I hadn’t brought any finishing materials with me, but I don’t think it’s really necessary to put any finish on cutting boards anyway.  They will slowly but naturally absorb oils in the kitchen.  I’m not lazy, just efficient.

Oh, and while we’re on the subject of cutting boards, I was in a high-end home-furnishings boutique in a big city last month, and I ran across this fancy cutting board:

Cutting Boards 2017

It’s probably more of a serving platter than a cutting board, but you get the idea.  Zoom in on the price tag if you can, and you’ll see it’s priced at $140.00

It certainly is a nice piece of spalted maple, but I think the price is a little steep.  But I’ll tell you what: if you want a similar cutting board, I will happily make you one out of spalted pecan for half the price of the above cutting board.


Tagged: cutting board, cutting boards, handplane, maple, resurface

Big Ol’ Sliding Dovetails

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - 6 hours 34 min ago

In the next few months, I’ve got a lot of furniture to make, as Josselyn (my partner) and I just moved to Cincinnati from Maine. Last week, I built a new coffee table for our place. This week I’m building us a new kitchen table, in between getting settled in my new job here and figuring out where to buy lumber (and food, clothing, etc.). Later this week I’ll post […]

The post Big Ol’ Sliding Dovetails appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Autodesk Fusion 360 Roadshow

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - 13 hours 8 min ago

I had a peculiar childhood, I grew up running CNCs and robots before I got my drivers license. Perhaps it was that experience that led me to believe that every other woodworker was as interested in the future of automation as me – I think I may have gotten ahead of myself. Before I attended the AutoDesk Fusion 360 Roadshow in Columbus, Ohio, I wrote a post and asked our […]

The post Autodesk Fusion 360 Roadshow appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Rust Never Sleeps!

Highland Woodworking - 14 hours 39 min ago

Prevent rust from taking over your tools with these simple tips.

Summer heat and humidity can be tough on our woodworking tools, especially if you store them in an unconditioned space. The absolute best way to eliminate rust from the surfaces of machines and other tools in your shop is to stop it from ever really getting started in the first place. If you’ve already got a rust issue, we’ve got some solutions for how to completely remove it once it’s already formed.

Click here for rust prevention methods for all of the tools in your shop!

The post Rust Never Sleeps! appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Philosophy of Craftsman Furniture

Bob Lang's ReadWatchDo - 15 hours 17 min ago
  It is like hoisting a danger signal to speak out loud to Mr. Stickley of ornament, yet all people do not know this. “It is very grand,” said one visitor, “but have you no ornament, carving or draperies in Continue reading →
Categories: General Woodworking

Leeds orchards scythe group

Steve Tomlin Crafts - 16 hours 41 min ago
Don't mess with the Leeds Orchard Scythe Team! Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

Scything the burial ground

Steve Tomlin Crafts - 17 hours 49 min ago
This place deserves peace and quiet while mowing. Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

got a mountain climb.......

Accidental Woodworker - 19 hours 55 min ago
I started the tenons tonight and I thought the sawing would be my Waterloo but it appears that it is going to be the fitting of the tenons. I have a wee bit of fun upcoming there and I don't think that I will get the tenons fitted until the weekend. I'm up for the challenge and I'm ready to do battle.

Since this is a handtool build, I did mark a reference face on the rails and stiles. I paid attention to them when I plowed the grooves and marked for the mortises. I thought all was well in Disneyland and the lines for rides had only 3 people waiting. I found or saw a hiccup right away tonight.

all 3 are different
The left side wall on all 3 appears to be the same but the right side walls are all different thicknesses. I had noticed this while grooving but I didn't pay it any mind because I was plowing them with the reference face out.

stile and rail
The left walls line up but the right ones are off. I think I can make this work but there may be a bit of unevenness on the thinner wall.  That may present a problem because I wanted to put the thinner wall against the inside of the cabinet. Doing that may interfere with the closing.

they are even
I'm at a lost to explain the varying thicknesses on the right walls. My initials thoughts were that the stock I used were off in the thickness. I used 3 boards to get the stiles and rails from but I couldn't feel any appreciable difference in any of the stiles and rails laid up against each other.

Holy bat turds Batman said Robin
I made the knife wall on the wrong side of the knife line. This is a step up from a brain fart and must be the result of a brain aneurysm. Either that or my two surviving brain cells became temporarily oxygen deprived somehow. Like I don't have have enough crappola to shovel so far. I am going to keep on going with this and see if I can at salvage it to the point of getting the door frame together.

no problems sawing out the bottom tenons
I thought of splitting this out but went with sawing. I started with the bottom stile which has the widest tenons. It is also the stile that I made the knife line on the wrong side of the gauge line.

Noticed another hiccup with these in that the mortise gauge lines I did don't line up with the tenon cheeks. My plan on these is to fit the cheek up against the wider wall first because that one is the reference face. I ran a pencil line from the edge of the groove up and around the tenon on both sides.


the back side that I couldn't see
My other three tenons came out a lot closer to the lines, front and back. I have a lot more to thin out on this one upcoming.

my front saw line
I sawed the tenons out all through the front. I sawed across the top down about and 1/8" and then started sawing down the cheek at the front. Once I got to the bottom I sawed straight down. I am getting better at sawing this way. I do it this way so I don't have to turn it around and saw from the other side.

didn't work
I wanted to use this router to clean up my cheeks but it wouldn't work. I like it because there is less overhang onto the tenon and more router on the stock. Keeps down the rocking and tapered tenons.

won't go any higher
The iron sticks down too far to be able to trim the cheeks. I'm sure that I could figure this out but tonight was not the time for it. I don't have a lot of time on the weekdays to stare at this with a goofy looking face pondering WTF is wrong. I set it aside for now.

not my favorite way
I have always admired how Paul Sellers is able to trim tenon cheeks with a chisel. I don't see how he can maintain parallel faces. My LN routers are way too small to trim these cheeks. The tenons are over half the length of the router making that operation way too tippy. I'm going to give this my best shot and go slowly and work on small areas rather than trying to do the whole cheek in one shot.

making progress
This isn't too bad but it is awfully slow going. Going back and forth from the vise to the stile eats up a lot of minutes. This is one reason why I went with through tenons on this. I didn't anticipate these problems but I did think it would be easier and better for me to fit a through rather a housed tenon.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Dov Moran?
answer - he invented the USB flash drive


How to Attach a Table Top with Traditional Wooden Buttons

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 07/24/2017 - 7:33am

There’s more than one way to attach a solid wood table top. The most important requirements of any method are (1) to keep the top firmly in contact with the undercarriage, preventing it from warping more than minimally, and (2) to allow the top to move across its grain as the wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity. Table top fasteners are one attachment method. They’re roughly Z-shaped, with […]

The post How to Attach a Table Top with Traditional Wooden Buttons appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

working on the door.......

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 07/24/2017 - 1:40am
Overall, I had a very productive weekend. I didn't get done as much as I thought I would but I tend to overestimate what I can do.  Yesterday I got  the cabinet carcass done. All that is left on it is to make two drawers and the door. I started the door because I can then hang the cabinet once it's done. The drawers can be made and fitted after that without any problems.  I didn't get the door done but I did make a big dent in it.

bookcase is done
It was out of the shop as of 0630 this morning. My wife didn't notice that it was in the living room until almost 1000. By 1400 she had filled it and was asking for another one.

1st detail
I wasn't sure how this would look once the bookcase was done but I think it came out ok. It doesn't look unfinished and chamfer ends at a defined place. I like this and will use it again if needed.

2nd detail
This was a first for me. I made a beaded miter return on this frame and it came out great. I made a few practice joints first to get a feel for making it. That practice paid off as this joint shows.

all are still flat and straight
Before I started on the door I stripped the #4 plane. The can said it was a 15 minute stripper so it won't take long.

gloves were a bust
I don't think my fingers even made it to the thumb hole. This was way too tight and small for my ham hock hands. I did buy some one size fits all nitrile gloves as backup.

all goodies ready to strip
I applied the stripper and put the plane inside of a plastic garbage bag.  That kept the sun off of it and the wind from blowing all kinds of crap onto it.

while the stripper was working
I plowed a groove in some scrap to check the fit of a 1/4 sash chisel and a 1/4" bench chisel in it. Both fit and it was looser fit than the Ashley Iles pigsticker I tried yesterday.

laid out a practice mortise
looks good from up here
appears to be square on both walls
chopped one with the 1/4 chisel
This mortise felt easier to make and it is a lot cleaner looking than the sash chisel mortise.

walls look ok
The gap was caused by me chopping slightly off plumb. This is minor damage and once the tenon is inserted it will never be seen.

chopped a little off plumb with the 1/4" chisel too
road testing my mortise chisel jaws
This is my first time using these jaws. I found it a little awkward to set the bevel in my setting gauge but other than that I had no other issues with it.

found a use for my old 8K stone
I would rather risk making a groove or divot in this old stone than in my new 8K stone. That is something that is easily accomplished with thin width edge tools.

been almost an hour
I don't think it's going to get any better
It isn't down to bare shiny metal but it does look like most of the paint is gone. Even the corners are relatively clean.

457
I wonder what this number (457) is for? A casting number or something for accounting?

it's worth a try
I am going to put wax on the areas that I don't what the primer paint on. Like the frog seat and the mouth. It's worth seeing if it will work.

primer coat is dry to the touch
I put studs in the knob and tote holes to keep the primer out of them. I don't know if the screws in the frog are frog screws because they look too small to be them. They fit and that is all I wanted for this.

the wax worked
I wiped the paint off with a shop rag. I will definitely use was again as it is far easier to apply wax than taping it off.

laying out my gauge lines for the stiles and rails
ripping it just off the line
slanted cut
I sawed this on a slant on purpose. I could see what I was sawing topside but not underneath. So I sawed at an angle to ensure I was off the gauge line in the waste area underneath.

all ripped out, planing to width is next
the batting line up
The 5 1/2 was used first to knock the slant square. Then I used the #8 to get it flat and straight and followed that up with the 4 1/2 planing to the knife line.

planing worked in this
Trying to run the groove with the plow plane didn't work so good. The back and forth of the plow plane kept pulling it out the vee. I was going to plane an edge square and then plow the groove. But I had to do all of one and then all of the other.

depth stop
This is a sweet plane and the surprises keep coming. This depth stop is awesome. I set it at the start and 6 grooves later it was still set. My first groove depth measured the same as the last groove I did. I don't know how LV did it but they should get a medal or a monument in the public square for this.

can't set this mortise gauge
I have the pins set as close together as I could get them and the points are still wider than the groove. I am going with through mortises and I need to mark the groove onto the bottom.

finally got one
The middle gauge would work but I had trouble seeing the gauge lines. The far right one I was able to set on the groove width and I used that one.

had to use this
I couldn't focus and see the pins up close when I tried to set the mortise gauge. I had to break out my peeper helpers so I could see what I was doing.

couldn't decide
Which one do I start chopping out first? I couldn't make up my mind so I chopped the mortises out this way. One in the groove and the another from the bottom.

it's a flip of a coin
The groove was a good helper for chopping but I liked the unrestricted access from the bottom. Since this is my first time doing this I really haven't formed an opinion on this of one over the other.

my first hand chopped through mortise - photographic proof
all four done in about 45 minutes
After I chopped out the stile mortises I did the layout for the top and bottom rails. I chopped through mortises in them for the center stile.

sawed the rails to length plus an 1/8"
stopped here
The mortises are all chopped and the rails are all set and waiting to have the tenons done. I will do the center stile tenons after the rails are done and I can mark the center stile directly off the frame. Tomorrow I plan on getting the tenons done and maybe fitted.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Clyde Edward Pangborn?
answer - the first person to fly across the pacific ocean non stop (in 1931)

Another AWFS Show in the Books

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sun, 07/23/2017 - 7:19am

Every two years the woodworking world gets to spend time looking at the newest if high-tech woodworking and even hand-tool woodworking. It’s a great few days and we’ve enjoyed sharing what we say with you. Here’s a short recap: One of the more popular stops at the show is the Fresh Wood Student Competition. Always inspiring to see what the newest and brightest woodworkers are creating. The entries ranged through […]

The post Another AWFS Show in the Books appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Week in Review – Week of July 17

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sun, 07/23/2017 - 3:12am

This week our new managing editor, Brendan Gaffney, posted his first project completed in the Pop Wood shop, a staked leg coffee table. Bob Flexner takes us inside a hide glue factory (you can thank me for deactivating the smell-o-vision on the post.) Chris Schwarz shares how a doe’s foot helps him avoid a tail vice. Nancy Hiller details her decorative gouging technique on a hayrake table. Be sure to catch up […]

The post Week in Review – Week of July 17 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

a good saturday in the shop.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 07/23/2017 - 2:15am
A few lunar eclipses have come and gone since the last time I had day like today in the shop. Doing OT for the past several months had put a damper on what I was able to accomplish on saturdays. OT is back at work but I am cutting way back on that. I'll do 5-6 hours during the week (I'm early to work anyways) but no more saturdays. I'll do the OT just to have some mad money to buy tools and wood. Having the past 3 saturdays off was nice. It took me two to catch my breath and today I exhaled.

set up overnight
I started my day in the shop at 0800 which my wife says is a normal time. However, I was down in the shop at 0600 but I didn't do anything except look at this. I didn't want to make any noise and wake her up.

clamps off and step one in checking for square
checking the opposite diagonal
I'm out of square by about a 1/16 which isn't to bad. Clamping the corners with 90° helpers doesn't guarantee that you will be square once the clamps come off. Something I will have to deal with later on.

looks like 2-3 frog hairs out
Of course the one corner that isn't square is the one where the drawers are going. And it is on the side that will have the larger of the two drawers to boot.

it'll go but it is too snug
I shaved a little off both ends on the shooting board and got the length to be a slip fit. I set this aside for now and turned my attention to making the drawer divider.

the drawer divider
This is 1/2" NZ pine and it'll be ok for this. This is just for guiding the two drawers when they are opened and closed. It doesn't need to fill in top and bottom neither.

checking for twist
The cabinet was rocking as I was trying to knife the drawer guide dado. I thought the cabinet might have been twisted but it isn't.

the bottom was the problem
The bottom had a bit of a hump in it. I planed it flat and the annoying rocking disappeared.

dado waste ready to go
I couldn't get a chisel to make the knife wall on the right dado wall. I could get a chisel in there but it was at too steep of an angle to make the knife wall. I made it with the paring chisel and I needed that to guide the saw. After I sawed the walls, I removed most of the waste with the paring chisel. The paring chisel was long enough to reach within an inch of the end of the dado.

most of it chiseled out
I got the final depth with a hand router.

sawing out the drawer guide
drawer guide
The plan was to to glue the first couple of inches of the guide. I sawed a half lap at the end to allow for expansion and contraction.

set back 5/8"
The front of the drawer guide is set back 5/8" from the front edge of the cabinet. After I get the bottom shelf installed I can make and fit the vertical part of the drawer guide.

swapped it out
I didn't like the first divider I made. I did a bad job of sawing the half lap and I planed a hump in it too. I tossed that one and made another slightly wider and with a better sawn half lap.

now I can install the bottom shelf
had to use the side rabbet planes again
The shelf was going in but it was binding slightly. If this was in partially and it froze, there wouldn't be anything I could do with it. I would have had to saw it into two pieces to get it out. I erred on the side of caution and made it a slip fit. I was able to bang into place with my fists.


this is toast
This is the second (?) time I used this Grace #1 square drive screwdriver. I tried to use it to put a #6 screw into the drawer guide. It was working until I got to this point which is about 1/2 way. Then the shaft started spinning or the handle was spinning around the shaft as I tried to screw this in. This is the third screwdriver in this set to go south on me. I finished driving this home with a cordless drill.

securing the bottom shelf
I put the shelf in without any glue. To keep it in place I'm going to put 3 miller dowels on each side.

making the notch for the vertical divider
I squared a line from the bottom divider up onto the bottom of the shelf. I chiseled a 5/8" by 1/2" notch on the underside of the shelf. Here I'm checking the fit of the notch with some scrap.

vertical divider notches, an upside down look
I was able to get almost all the notch on the shelf with a chisel vertical. I had to do the back wall of it with the bevel of the chisel. The bottom was in the way and preventing me from using the chisel at 90°.

vertical divider fitted and glued
I left this wide purposely to make it easier to handle while I fitted it. I sawed this out of a larger piece of stock.

two plane tag team
I removed 99% of the proud with the scrub plane and flushed it with the 4 1/2.

basic cabinet is done

I was going to leave this and start in on the drawers and the door but I came back to this. I decided to make two shelves for it first. That will complete all the interior work on the cabinet except for the drawers.

loaded it up with a few goodies
I was hoping to keep the veneer scraper in here but it takes up a lot of room. A lot more than I want to allot for it. The cans are in here to help me gauge where to start drilling for the shelf pins.

drill guide for the shelf pins
put in 3 rows of shelf pins
One shelf will be the same as the depth and a second one will be about 2/3. That is why I drilled a row inbetween the outside ones.

oversized shelf just sawn to R/L length
Both shelves are coming from the old kitchen cabinets.

the 2/3 shelf
My thinking on this shelf is to allow sight of the contents below it at the back of the cabinet. With a full width shelf it's hard to get a peek at the back.

ripped the full width shelf
The full width shelf is a 1/2" less than the depth of the cabinet. I don't want this to interfere with the door closing.

notches for the shelf pins
I like to make these notches for the shelf pins to help keep the shelf in place. This way the shelf is kind of fixed in place and shouldn't come forward when something is removed from it.

shelves done
loaded up
I haven't even finished this and it is already too small. The spray cans of paint are history. I'll find someplace else to stow them.  This isn't that heavy as I was able to pick it up off the bench and put it on the 4 drawer tool dresser. Without getting a hernia too.

checking the fit
I was going to plane the groove in the rails and stiles for the door and then chop the mortises. My 1/4" groove made by the plow plane is one frog less than the width of the pigsticker. I can get the pigsticker in the groove but that is because this is soft pine. I chopped a mortise anyways about 1 1/2" long and I didn't chew up the walls doing it. I'll have to make a command decision on this tomorrow. Do I plow the groove first and chop the mortises or chop the mortises first and then plow the groove. Just thought of another option - check and see if one of my 1/4" chisels fits the plow plane groove?

making the big drawer front
I don't remember where this board came from but I'm using it as the drawer front for my right hand drawer. I want something around 5/8" thick because I plan on using half blind dovetails on the drawers.

just enough meat left to square up the width
one face flat
Well one face is almost flat. The board kept moving and changing as I was planing it so I'm not sure if it'll stay this way. I checked this and if I gauge off the reference face, I'll be lucky if this ends up a 1/2" thick. I tossed this and started over.

using this
I can get both drawer fronts out of this board and have a L to R continuous grain flow. Plus it will be easier to flatten both drawer fronts as one piece rather then one at a time. After I have it 6 squared I can saw out my two fronts.

this board is in better shape
I'll saw this too rough width and then start to flatten it. It has a slight cup in it that isn't too bad.

this will be sawn off
This is a visible pitch and resin area of the board that smells good but doesn't accept glue too well. It also gums up the soles of the planes and makes a sticky mess of them.

sawn to rough width of 4 3/4"
The drawer opening is 4 1/2" wide and I went with a 1/4" of extra meat because this board still has to have one edge planed straight and flat. Once that is done I can saw and plane it to 4 1/2".

finally got the twist out
After the twist was planed out, I planed the board to thickness.

got lucky
I got my goal of a 5/8". When I flatten a board now, I do it strictly to get it flat. I've spent too much time on past 6 squares worrying about making my thickness rather then getting a flat squared board.

the rest of the drawer stock
Two backs and four sides. I left them long and together so I when I rip them to rough width I will only have to rip 3 boards rather then 6. I'll cross cut this into the 6 required pieces tomorrow.

ripped out the last drawer part
I got these labeled and to rough dimensions and I'll let them sticker until tomorrow. They are bit over a 1/2" thick and I may lose some of that thickness when I clean them up tomorrow.

door stock
The left board has a nice curve to it. These I cut out individually to a rough length plus 4" on the stiles, 3" for the rails, and 3" for the center stile. I flattened and made straight one edge on all of these. Tomorrow I'll rip them to rough width.

drawer and door parts stickered until tomorrow
got some 15 min hi test stripper
I was going to use this today but I forgot a couple of ancillary things. This stuff is caustic and not nice to look at, breathe, or have it touch your skin. I'll need some heavy duty plastic gloves, eye protection, and a couple of disposable paint brushes. I'll make a Wally World run first thing in the AM.

done for all intents and purposes
The shelves finally feel dry to the touch. No more clammy or tacky feelings, but a bone dry one. I have 3 coats of poly on the shelves and two on the bookcase. I put one coat of poly on the base tonight. Tomorrow this will be out of the shop and on the porch.

Good progress today and hopefully I'll match it tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
She was the second woman to fly across the Atlantic solo and the first to do it from east to west. Who was she?
answer - Beryl Markham

Some Ideas Just Live On.

The Furniture Record - Sat, 07/22/2017 - 10:05pm

I was making a rare visit to a local antiques mall recently when I came across a small desk similar to one I had seen and written about in November of 2015, (See Convertibles.)

The dealer called it a traveling desk:

IMG_9559

I’m not sure where it traveled to.

The novel feature is that this desk like the previous one, opens to reveal the gallery hidden within:

IMG_9561

Ink holders lead me to believe this is not of current manufacture.

IMG_9550

A different view showing from where the gallery comes.

IMG_9552

The gallery is extracted by two brass brackets attached to the lid.

This might be one of those times I disagree with the dealer. I don’t think it is a traveling desk. Among other things, the legs don’t fold are a bit on the delicate side to travel much.

I looked at the previous blog and realized it is the same desk. It had disappeared or been buried under other inventory for the past two years only to reappear and taunt me.

One new discovery made using the same technology is this bar unit:

IMG_9745

A nice compact chest.

And it opens to reveal:

IMG_9746

Glasses and liquor. What else?

While we are looking at recycled idea, I found this side locked piece that might properly be called side latching.

IMG_9970

A nice tall piece with a familiar look.

The side doesn’t really lock having only a ball catch and no lock.

IMG_9967

A different configuration with a desk up top and drawers below.

Not that old. Phillips screws on the hinges. This desk was definely made after 1936.


GF Design Challenge & Fresh Wood Exhibit @ AWFS

360 WoodWorking - Sat, 07/22/2017 - 2:31pm
GF Design Challenge & Fresh Wood Exhibit @ AWFS

During my days as a woodworking magazine editor I attended AWFS only once, even though the show happens every other year. At the event I attended, I have to say that I was blown away by the student exhibit, which is nowadays known as Fresh Wood. (It may have had the same name back then, too.) In fact, after the competition the magazine for which I worked included an article by one of the students selected to exhibit in Las Vegas at the show.

Continue reading GF Design Challenge & Fresh Wood Exhibit @ AWFS at 360 WoodWorking.

Paterae Inlay Class at CVSW

The Barn on White Run - Sat, 07/22/2017 - 6:40am

The day after Veneer Repair came a session to create a pair of oval Federal inlays.  The morning was spent creating a simple conch shell pattern patera about 2 inches by four inches, in an oval surround with multi-stringing border.  I provided all of the tools and supplies for the students.

The first process is to make a packet of the veneers from which the patera will be cut.  These are just stacked and wrapped with veneer tape.

Then the pattern is glued to one face of the packet, using stick glue.

Using a small eggbeater drill and a tiny bit, a hole is punched in an unobtrusive spot and a jeweler’s saw blade (0000 in this case) is fed through, hooked up the the saw frame, and the sawing begins.

Once the pieces are all cut out they are immersed into a bath of hot sand to scorch in the shading pattern.

The end result is a compelling one.

The pieces are all glued to a piece of kraft paper backing, and the stringing border also glued to the same paper with the help of a pile of straight pins.  The proud wood would be trimmed with a sharp chisel and then it is ready to use.

Thus endeth the morning.  Up next, the second patera.

Meet Our ‘Young Makers’

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 07/22/2017 - 4:33am

In “Young Makers’ Bookshelves” (coming in the October 2017 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine), Rodney Wilson offers a brief profile on 10 of today’s rising woodworking stars, then asks them about the books that have influenced their lives and work. Below, you’ll find links to their personal websites and Intagrams accounts (where applicable.) – I encourage you to check out their work! Laura Zahn Personal website: http://offthesaw.com/ Allied Workshop website: https://alliedwoodshop.com/ Instagram: @alliedwoodshop Joshua Klein Personal […]

The post Meet Our ‘Young Makers’ appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

a day of mourning......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 07/22/2017 - 3:08am
I took today off to buy some wood but the place I was going to go to closed their doors. So I thought I would go to Pepin Lumber and buy 5/4 pine there. I got another disappointment there too. Their supplier for 5/4 stock shut down and they had none when I looked today. Not only didn't they have any 5/4 pine but their supply of 1x pine was a sad pile to look at.

They used to sell 1x 12, 1x10, etc etc down to 1x4 clear pine in 6' lengths. That supplier went south and shut down too. The pickings were awfully slim today. 1x8, 1x6, and 1x4 was all they had for sale. The piles they had were the last of it and it looks like I won't be going to Pepin for 1x pine any more.

More and more sawmills are closing down and shutting their doors. A pallet sawmill where I used to live in Westerly shut down a few years ago. A sawmill I went to a few times in Griswold Ct went bankrupt. Parlee sawmill recently went out of business and the one reply I got from sawmill sawing 5/4 pine was one in north western Mass. He only has 5/4 in 6" widths but he is a lot closer than driving up to New Hampshire or Maine. I really don't want to buy my 1x or 5/4 lumber from a big box store.

got some parts in
If you ever have a tote or a knob that has a stud that is neither too short or too long, Bill Rittner is your man. He will make studs to fit your knobs. All you have to do is give him the height of the knob. This is the stud for my replacement low knob and two new 'old style' barrel nuts.

knob and tote done
I ordered some frog washers and a frog adjuster screw today. I should have them next week sometime and once they are installed I can road test this plane and finally call it done.

panel glued back together
This came out pretty good and I can hardly feel the joint line anywhere along it's length.

had to scrape some glue off this side
That dark line at bottom is a gap caused by the split and it will be on inside of the cabinet.  Other than this, this side felt as good as the other side did.

checking my back panel again
I think the reason why I am not getting a square cabinet has to do with this panel. I know the side to side is a bit short and the top to bottom is snug.

slightly off
One side is square at both corners and this side it is slightly off on both.

problem #2
The back panel is too long top to bottom. It is about an 1/8" too long. I think as I applied the clamps this extra length was causing it to bow and throwing off the square on the cabinet.

top to bottom is parallel along it's length
This works in my favor as I have to trim an 1/8" off of the panel. I shot all four corners on my big ass shooting board.

all four corners are dead nuts square now
did a dry fit and I had to shave a wee bit more
too tight
I had to glue this groove back because it split when I dropped it. The last 3" or so are too tight for the panel back to fit in it.

a little work with a Japanese rasp fixed it
dry fitted and it's square
two more clamps and it's no longer square
I put the two top clamps on loosely and it was square. As I tightened down on them, it went out of square. I took them off and checked for square again with just the middle clamps and there was no joy. It was out of square this way too. I started over again.

aggravation setting in
I could square this up and maintain it if I applied the clamps in a certain sequence. I put the middle ones on first and checked for square. Put on the top clamp on next. I couldn't go Cro Magnon on this because it would throw it out of square. I had to use just enough oomph to close the joint. The final clamp went on the bottom. I was able to maintain square with this if I checked for it after each clamp was applied.

Tried a different 3 clamp set up on both ends and it threw the cabinet out of square by a 1/2". I tried everything I could think of to square it up and got nowhere. I could only square it up by applying a clamp across the corners. That squared it up but it also introduced twist to the cabinet. I had to go back to the first dry clamping sequence to order to get square after all the clamps were on. Two more practice runs and I felt comfortable about how to clamp it up square.

ready to strip the the body and the frog
I'll let the stripper work while I made the dadoes for the bottom shelf in the cabinet.

marking for the bottom of the dado
This will be used to make the two drawers going in this space.

my haul from Pepin Lumber today
Not much here - two 1x4's, one 1x8, and three 1/2" x 6" x 4' pine boards. The 1/2" stock is for the drawers, the 1x4 is for the door frame and the 1x8 for the panels.

1x10
In case the 1x8 is too small to use for panels, I can fall back on this.

ready to chop out the waste
I am going to put the bottom shelf in after the cabinet is glued up. I don't want to risk trying to get this and the rest of the cabinet together when I glue it up and end up with kindling.

wee bit too tight
 I was shooting for a loose fit because I will slide this in after the cabinet is glued up. I don't want to have to beat it in place and risk breaking one or more of the rabbeted tongue joints. I don't have a warm and fuzzy that this dry wood can withstand that punishment.

snug but not too snug
I used the LN side rabbet planes to shave the top wall until the board fit in the dado.

3 applications of stripper
It doesn't even look like I used stripper once on this. I tried using one of my old chisels as a scraper but that wasn't working on this plane.

nothing touched this back
The stripper didn't remove anything nor did a chisel or a sheetrock knife used as scrapers. I'm going to try another stripper and see what shakes out with that. If that doesn't work I'll start looking around for someone who does sand blasting.

the frog wasn't much better
Just about all of the missing paint on the frog I removed with 100 grit sandpaper.

glue up time
Things went south on me as soon as I applied the second clamp. Even loosely applied it pulled the cabinet out of square. I didn't go into nutso mode or panic but I looked at the cabinet to see what was off. I had rehearsed dry clamping this and applying the clamps in a specific sequence 3 times while maintaining square. I just had to see quickly what was holding things up.

the problem
The side to side is short and I knew that. When I flipped the cabinet over I saw that the panel was not in the groove on this side at all by looking here. This is after I fixed the problem.

the problem
A piece of the panel ply had lifted up and was keeping this side of the panel from seating in the groove. I used a block of wood to push that flat and get the panel seated in the groove.

I didn't panic


I tried to clamp up the cabinet the way I rehearsed it dry but it wasn't square. Since I used yellow glue on this my window for getting this clamped  was rapidly closing. And it was happening much faster because of the heat and humidity levels. I clamped some home made and store bought 90° corner helpers to square up the cabinet. I'll have to wait until tomorrow to see if there will be any joy in Mudville. I've used these before and they don't always work 100%.

I used the black 90° first in opposing corners and checked the other two for square and they were.  I checked for square in the middle of the cabinet with the pinch rods and they said the cabinet was square also. I put on the last two plywood corner clamps and called it done for now.

squared up the bottom shelf

one end of the bottom shelf
This used to be a cabinet door in the old kitchen and I recycled it to be the bottom shelf.

the other end
This is why I didn't plane the shelf to fit the dado. This is a lumber core door. Several random width boards glued together and covered with a veneer top and bottom. Basically a form of plywood.  Any wood movement should be side to side as it is installed in the cabinet.  I think and hope that there will be no movement and there shouldn't be. This door is at least 40+ years old and should be done with all it's stupid wood tricks.

getting some poly
I've had it with the bookcase shelves waiting for them to feel dry. The bookcase feels dry and it will get two coats of water based poly on the exterior. I did the interior last week and it feels dry.

these are getting poly today too
I would guess that there was a 70% change in these feeling drier from their time on the porch. They feel much drier than the interior of the bookcase felt when I put poly on that. Putting poly on the shelf fronts was the last thing I did today.

In spite of taking the day off I didn't get much accomplished. I had a bit of a struggle in the morning getting my butt out of my chair to get doing anything. I felt so tired that I just sat and vegged for two hours. I did the same thing after lunch except then I nodded off for an hour.  Tomorrow I plan on getting the drawers and door started on the cabinet.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Charles Lindbergh flew across the Atlantic Ocean in 1927 and it took him 33 1/2 hours. Amelia Earhart flew across the Atlantic Ocean exactly 5 years later. How long did it take her?
answer - 15 hours and 56 minutes

CNC Mills for 3D Carving

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 07/21/2017 - 7:04am

Cutting parts with a CNC is a 2.5D process. It’s not quite 3D and a bit more than 2D. When you’re cutting parts, the third axis on a CNC —the Z axis, just needs to cut at selected depths. You can start with two-dimensional drawings and add tool path instructions for how deep the router or spindle needs to cut. After cutting parts on a CNC, nearly everyone interested in […]

The post CNC Mills for 3D Carving appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Scything in North Cumbria

Steve Tomlin Crafts - Fri, 07/21/2017 - 4:40am
Scything, sunshine, smallholder. Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

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