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General Woodworking

Deep Discounts on 3 Print Titles – Building Arts and Crafts Furniture, Make a Windsor Chair and Hand Tool Fundamentals

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - 1 hour 19 min ago

We’re clearing off a shelf in the warehouse for new titles, and as a result, have three good books (the print versions only) available right now at a deep discount. The first is “Building Classic Arts & Crafts Furniture: Shop Drawings for 33 Traditional Charles Limbert Projects,” by Michael Crow. Right now (and only at shopwoodworking.com), it’s $7 (75 percent off the cover price). I think we mis-titled this one; it […]

The post Deep Discounts on 3 Print Titles – Building Arts and Crafts Furniture, Make a Windsor Chair and Hand Tool Fundamentals appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

drawers glued up.......

Accidental Woodworker - 3 hours 57 min ago
Closing in on the cabinet being done. I glued the slips on the drawers tonight and I'll let them cook until tomorrow. One thing I'm not sure of is whether or not I have any 1/4" birch plywood for the drawers. The small alignment pieces I used came from the shorts bin and I didn't look to see if I had any bigger pieces. That may put a stop on the drawers come tomorrow.

planing epoxy
I planed the back into the middle and now I have to plane the front going into the middle. This side of drawer didn't get as much epoxy as the other side. This side had teeny weeny gaps.

planed with the 4 1/2
I didn't know what to expect with this. Would the epoxy have solidified in the wood and I would plane out tons of tear out? Nothing happened like that all. In fact I think the epoxy made it easier to plane than it did doing the back of the drawer.  It cleaned up without any tear out problems at all.

this was the side with the big gaps
I forced as much epoxy into these two gaps as I could. I have already done the back into the middle and it's the front's turn.

no problems at all
The left side tail was a bit shallow so I had to take a few swipes there to get it flat with the front. This part cleaned up as nicely and easily as the other three corners did. It seems planing epoxy isn't any different than planing wood. Except with epoxy you don't have to check for grain direction.

flushing the bottom batted next
I did the top yesterday
I checked the fit first before I planed any more off of the top.

drawer fits except for the last 3'4"
This side of the drawer at the top has a slight gap .

this top side gap isn't as large
This is where I usually lose my good fit and end up with something loose and floppy. I looked at the inside of the drawer on the left side and it appears to be ok. This side top of the drawer will get a few shavings taken off of it and nothing taken off the right side.

right side of drawer
The top on this side is ok but the right vertical side up against the cabinet is tight. The slides in easily in and out up to this point and binds. The front 3/4" of this side needs to be shaved.

the other side is the same
Here I can see the clearance between the drawer and the side as I open and close. It is binding in the last 3/4 to 1 inch at the end. I had to shave this front too. The rest of the drawer appears to move in and out without binding or rubbing.

fits and it is up against the back wall
I did this same thing last night. Other than me not being able to extract this drawer, it seated effortlessly. No binding, squeaking, or rubbing the whole way in.

used this yesterday on the small drawer - hooked it at the back and pulled the drawer open
Both drawers are done. The blue painters tape should be a close approximation of the paint film. I wish I hadn't messed up the first small drawer and I still had my grain flow from one drawer to the other. I like the natural wood look against the painted surfaces. Instead I am going to paint the drawer fronts and the front edge of the shelves too.

need four more spacers
I am squaring up one long and short edge. I'll use them to set the slips.

the plan
I can glue the back of the slip to the bottom of the drawer back and the spacer will hold the front in the correct orientation.

did the big drawer first
I made one change on this and that was to clamp the very front of the slip.  There in no positive glue up at the front like I have at the back. To get a good bond at the front, I put a clamp on the plywood spacer to apply pressure to that area at the front.

this one was bit tricky
Not much room to maneuver with my hands and clamps. This one took twice as long to clamp up as the large one.

large one curing on the tablesaw aka a horizontal storage surface
steel wooled it but......
The top had a few ridges and bumps across the whole lid. I scraped the lid down and I removed almost all of the finish and the bumps. I couldn't get them all scraped out but I got a lot of it. I didn't bother with the underside and I won't be putting anymore finish on that neither.

I settled on how I'm going to attach the lid to the box. I wasn't particularly fond of using a wooden pin nor was a metal one giving me a warm and fuzzy. This box is pine and over time the pin will elongate and oval out the pin hole. I ordered some parts from McMaster-Carr for the box and while I'm waiting for them to come in I can get the finish built back up on the box.

one more coat on
I'll put on a couple coats each night. One after work and another after dinner. I should be caught up when I get the parts.

one of 5 came in
This is a stay put boat locker hook. It's way too big for the cabinet but it would work. I have some smaller ones coming maybe tomorrow. I don't want to use nor do I like the look of a hook and a plain screw eye. I would make something wooden before I would use something like that.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What US City sits aside the Miami River?
answer - it isn't Miami, it is Dayton, Ohio

Lesson From A Maestro

The Barn on White Run - Tue, 08/15/2017 - 11:39am

Last week en route home from Mordor on the Potomac I had the good fortune to visit Steve Voight, music composition professor by day, planemaker by night.  I became acquainted with Steve in the past couple of years and have come to enjoy immensely his company and his passion as a gifted craftsman fashioning wooden bodied planes in the style of 18th Century English hand planes.  At one point in his life Steve was a skilled machinist and that attention to detail has carried over into this new chapter of life, in part teaching students how to construct music and also providing us with exquisite tools to construct furniture.

We spent a couple of delightful hours discussing woodworking in his charming, spare, beautifully bright garret studio above the kitchen of his (and the lovely and delightful Mrs. Steve’s) house.  Tell me those windows and the light accompanying them does not instill some jealousy.  Go ahead.

I continued my admiration of his products, and noted with anticipation some new items coming to his inventory soon.  We also discussed the possibility of him making some custom tools for me soon.  Cross your fingers.

The money time was the hour or so spent with him demonstrating the method of setting up a double-iron plane to get the most superior results.  I know how to sharpen tools pretty darned well, but his tutorial on setting the second iron was an eye-opener to me.

Steve’s first step confirmed his facility as a sharpener as he tuned up his iron in about 30 seconds.

Thus far I’d been setting my chip breaker around 1/25″ from the tip of the cutting iron but learned that my spacing was far too great, and the best setting is somewhere in the territory of .006″-.010″.  Steve starts his set-up by resting the tip of the cutting iron on the bench and then placing the chip breaker on top of a .010″ feeler gauge leaf.

Then he brings it home with the resultant spacing between the chip breaker and the cutting iron being nearly invisible.

Setting up the plane itself with eyes way better than mine, Steve showed me the results.

He explained that a properly sharpened and set double iron plane almost literally shoots the shaving out of the throat.  I was surprised that they did not curl, they were straight wisps of gossamer wood (this one was a bit heavy and rippled, but photographing him work is a challenge because his motions are so confident and rapid).

Who knew?  Well, not me!


Steve definitely gave me something to think about and aim for, which makes our time together invaluable.

Thanks Steve!

How to Repaint Numbers & Graduations on a Steel Ruler: Restoring John Walters’ Rusted Starrett Ruler

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 08/15/2017 - 8:46am

After finding a rusted old Starrett ruler in a ‘Free stuff’ pile left by a neighbor, I decided to restore it and repaint the numbers and graduations. First, I placed it in a tray and covered it with a 20% vinegar solution for an hour or so. Then I scraped the ruler with a bread clip and #1000 grit wet-dry sandpaper to polish the surface. After washing and neutralizing the […]

The post How to Repaint Numbers & Graduations on a Steel Ruler: Restoring John Walters’ Rusted Starrett Ruler appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking


Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Tue, 08/15/2017 - 6:55am

I pretend I exist in a bubble or cocoon. Each day I’m at home, I get up & have breakfast with the family, and then make my way out the back door to the workshop. Open up the windows to let in the sounds of the birds, check the river – tide in or out? Coming or going? And then sort the day’s projects – am I cutting these mortises, carving which pieces – most of my concerns are about really great quality oak, sharp tools, and learning from studies of period pieces…

And it goes like that day in & day out. Which hatchet? Are these bowls dry enough for the next step? Ah, I figured out what design to carve for that panel. Then, time to clean up the place and re-set the bench…

All the ordinary stuff is an intrusion – have to go to the dump, the bank, did I pay the bills? I just want to get back to work in the shop. All of that is just like the rest of us.

Every so often, I traipse out into the world to teach a workshop, deliver a lecture/demonstration – that sort of thing. And those audiences are pre-disposed to receive what I have to give. An interest in woodworking, furniture history, spoon carving – they’re already converts. But I know although we have woodworking interests in common, there can and will be things we don’t have in common. And that’s usually fine with me. I can get past a lot of stuff, and concentrate on our shared interests. And it has always been a great kick for me to come together with people I might otherwise not connect to…

This year, it’s been tricky, with the political climate in America and the world. I have specifically stated in many of my classes – “No politics, please.” Just to avoid the issue. Trying to be polite…and it has worked thus far. 

Like I said, I can get past a lot of stuff. But…not racism. Not Nazis marching in the streets of 21st-century America. That shit doesn’t fly. Everyone should be against that…none of this “many sides” crap.

So…in the hopefully unlikely event that some of my readers are sympathetic with the KKK, Neo-Nazis, White Supremacists, etc that were on display down in Charlottesville this past weekend, – if that’s you – please un-subscribe to my blog. Please stop following me on Instagram, FB…please don’t come to my classes. Please don’t buy my book, videos, spoons, etc.

I want nothing to do with racists.

Back to oak now.

one drawer fitted......

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 08/15/2017 - 1:27am
It was hard to choose what to expend calories on in the shop tonight. I have the binder box that is mostly complete and it has a couple coats of finish on it too. I am undecided on how I want to pin the hinge arms to the box. Depending upon how that goes, it may add some days before the completion date.

The drawers for the finishing cabinet are now at the fitting stage. I have to clean them up, do the drawer runners, make a bottom, and fit a bottom in place. I kind of did a 90/10 thing tonight with the most calories going to the drawers.

two drawers
Out of the clamps and still square. I had to satisfy my urge to check these in the openings.

the front of the small doesn't fit the opening
large drawer fit
I think if the tails weren't proud of the sides, it would have fit snug this way. The top to bottom is too tight also.

large drawer
The back is tapered so it may fit once I flatten that out. Both drawers are a bit too large for their openings but that should change once I get some planing done.

the gaps are still there
I won't be able to fit this drawer tonight because I have to fill these gaps with epoxy.

the other side
A smaller gap on the opposite side. I could probably ignore this and be ok but since I doing the other side, I'll do this one too.

flushing the top of the big drawer
I had to see if this would at least go in the opening.

one side fits
The left back corner will slide into the opening. The right back corner threw a hissy fit and won't cooperate and go in.

sawing off the wild
I marked the top of the sides onto the back. I ran a line away from that and sawed it off.

flushed the bottom
The bottom won't be getting any more attention. Any trimming to fit the opening will be done on the top. It's going to be painted and I have to allow for the thickness of the paint film.

top flushed up
When I got a continuous shaving going around the entire perimeter I stopped.

cleaned up the sides and the back
I will do the front very lightly when I am done fitting this. There is only a 1/8" at the front of the dovetails and I don't want to thin down the front anymore than I have to.

in about a 1/3 of the way
2nd trimming and I'm about 1/2 way - planing just the top
third trimming and I'm done
I made the mistake of fully seating the drawer in the opening. I had a hell of a time getting it back out. On this trial run I left it proud as in lesson learned.

I'll plug this after I get the bottom and slips installed
flushing the tails
I used to plane the tails flush but I now flush them first with a chisel. Doing that gives me a level starting point for the toe of the plane. I noticed that I was slightly rounding over and not getting the front to back straight. I was planing a slight hump on the drawer sides.

epoxy and filler
It surprises how the white filler turns a beige/pine color when it is mixed with the epoxy.

the compromise
A better fit of the tail and pins would have been the best choice but epoxy saves this from being toast.

4 coats of shellac
I still haven't sanded this back yet. I want to get a good film build up before I steel wool it due to the high pine pitch content of this. This will probably end up with 4 more coats followed by some wax.

squared up one end of the slips
the back of the slips
Doing some trial and error work with the slips trying to figure out the best way to glue them in place.  On problem I'm trying to figure out is whether to glue the slips in place and then fit the bottom, or glue the slips and bottom in all at once. I can see advantages and heartaches with both.

the front look
I cut two pieces of the bottom to act as spacers to keep the slips positioned correctly at the front and back.

the way I'm leaning
I like the idea of the two spacers at the front and back and gluing the slips to the side. Without the bottom in place, I can apply clamps to the slips while the glue sets up. Potential problem - the slips might slip and the bottom won't lay flat side to side.

slips aren't as proud this way
works better than this way
The slip in the middle is the way I was originally going to put them on the drawer. That way about a 1/4" would need to be flushed off. The way they are clamped in the box now I will only have to shave a strong 32nd. And the size of the rabbet for gluing the bottom didn't change at all.
another problem
Since the groove and the plywood aren't a good fit but rather a loose one, with the slips clamped at the front, the plywood spacer is cocked upwards. I think I will position the bottom of the slips to be even with the bottom of the groove. I'll deal with the gap, if any, after the slips are set and the bottom is glued in place. That fun will commence tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
In what Baseball World Series was the Star Spangled Banner first played?
answer -  the 1918 series

Scything tough weeds on slopes

Steve Tomlin Crafts - Mon, 08/14/2017 - 12:47pm
Some old-school time lapse photography of mowing rougher vegetation. Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

Poppy Smallwood

Finely Strung - Mon, 08/14/2017 - 10:16am

It’s always a pleasure to hear what one’s instruments are doing and I recently caught up with this small steel-string guitar that I made nearly 5 years ago for Poppy Smallwood. Based on a Martin OO model with 12 frets to neck, it’s made of English walnut and has a sitka spruce soundboard.




(More photographs here, if you want to know about its construction.)


Poppy has been playing the guitar in all sorts of places, making a reputation for herself as a singer and songwriter. Here she is performing one of her own songs for BalconyTV against the background of St Petersburg.




You can hear several more of her songs on Soundcloud.


SketchUp Class Philadelphia Furniture Workshop – Nov. 11-12, 2017

Bob Lang's ReadWatchDo - Mon, 08/14/2017 - 8:40am
I’m delighted to announce a SketchUp Class to be held the weekend of November 11-12, 2017 at the Philadelphia Furniture Workshop in Philadelphia, PA. You can get detailed information and register for this class at the PFW website. While this Continue reading →
Categories: General Woodworking

How to Install Blum Tandem Slides with 2 Jigs

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 08/14/2017 - 7:33am
Blum Tandem slides being installed with jig

Blum Tandem slides are a fabulous innovation for built-in cabinetry with drawers and pantry pull-outs. They’re smooth, silent, invisible and they come with a little person inside who pulls the drawer shut for you. (OK, not really, but there might as well be someone in there considering how well they shut themselves.) As with most innovative hardware, there’s a range of accessories you can buy to ease installation. When I […]

The post How to Install Blum Tandem Slides with 2 Jigs appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Big Savings for Pembroke Table Hands-on Class

360 WoodWorking - Mon, 08/14/2017 - 7:11am
Big Savings for Pembroke Table Hands-on Class

If you have a week free beginning September
18th – yes I know it’s barely a month away – 360Woodworking has the perfect woodworking vacation for you. There is one bench open for a hands-on class building a Pembroke table, a furniture form that spanned over a century and was interpreted differently by the tastes and styles of the various designers of the age.

In the class as you build your table, you’ll learn multiple methods to taper legs, how to work with stack-lamination techniques for the curved parts, basic veneer work, how to lay out and cut the oval top complete with drop-leaf joinery and inlay and how to make knuckle joints for the fly rail – come ready to work to build this iconic piece of period furniture.

Continue reading Big Savings for Pembroke Table Hands-on Class at 360 WoodWorking.

two drawers and a box.....

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 08/14/2017 - 1:20am
It was a very productive weekend for me. Saturday was cloudy and overcast with a few periods of rain. Sunday was sunny but the humidity was back. It wasn't as bad as it was last month and with the fan going in the shop, it was tolerable. It didn't slow me down too much and I met my goal of getting both drawers glued up. I was hoping the box would be done and ready to go to work but maybe by tuesday or wednesday it'll be ready.

quiet work
An hour after oh dark thirty I was in the shop working on the binder clip box. I usually work on things like this that don't make noise as I don't want to risk waking up the wife. I flushed the top and bottom and cleaned up the sides. I used this piece of walnut to make some glue blocks for the bottom. I normally wouldn't use them on a box this small but I made the bottom too narrow in the width. I centered it as best I could and the glue blocks will keep it there.

plugged the groove holes
 I was going to put a base on this that would have hid these but I changed my mind. Only me and another woodworker will ever know what the real purpose of the plugs are for. If anyone asks at work (which I doubt), I'll tell them it's a decoration.

didn't get 100%
Three of the corners closed up with no gaps. This corner has a wee bit showing but I'll take it. This is a big improvement over my past results. I may be chasing the wind on this but I want a gap free interior on a  dovetailed box. I'm closing in on it slowly.

there is a lid in there
I don't want a glued up lid so I cut off a piece from this 1x10. I'll thin it down to a 1/2"

both sides have some twist
 The board looked straight and flat before I sawed it off but it rocked on the corners when I put it on the bench.

got one face flat
Getting this board flat and twist free was a PITA. I went back and forth several times between checking and planing before I got it. I was shooting for a 1/2" thickness and I ended up a frog hair under 7/16".

sizing the overhang on the ends
got a ton of tear out
When I ran my gauge line around the board I saw that I had over an 1/8" to hog off. So I used the scrub plane going straight across the board first. I got a lot of tear out but I thought I was ok because I had so much to remove. It didn't all plane out and disappear when I got it down to the gauge lines.

another headache
The the board is full of pitch on both sides. All the orange colored grain lines are pitch pockets.

made mess of this
I had to stop and clean the sole of this several times while scraping this board.

my 5 1/2
I'll have to break this down to parade rest and clean it up. Turpentine works the best at cleaning this but mineral spirits works too.

washers for clearance
There is about a 32nd on the outboard side of the hinge arms. The washers will keep the arms spaced correctly while the glue sets up.

only gluing about 1/2 way
I put the arms on the lid and held them in place for a few minutes and then set it aside to set up.

working on the big drawer front
cleaning out the sockets
first one fitted
the ugly gap
This is my fault because I set the marking gauge a hair shorter than it should have been. For some reason I thought this would give me some wiggle room when it came to fitting it. Well sports fans, it doesn't. What is does is this. Half blinds can't be proud or short in this cut but only dead nuts. Tomorrow after this has set I'll fill itwith epoxy and filler.

making my blind groove
sizing the back to match the front
dry fitlooks good
I am not doing the finger hole until the bottom is in. Once that is done, it would be impossible for me to screw it up again.

drawer slip overhang
I knew that this would go pass the bottom but not this much. Still not a problem as after the glue has set on it, I'll plane it flush.

a look see
Slips are a good alternative to grooving the sides. The bottom is captured at the front in a groove and can be nailed or screwed into the back. The sides aren't weakened by grooving for the bottom.

new look for me
The interior is flush across the bottom going up to the sides. Nothing sticking out into the drawer box interfering with putting things up against the sides.

small drawer parts sized and ready to dovetail
front done and ready to do the back
No hiccups with the front half blinds having gaps. I was a good boy and set the gauge to the exact distance.

I said oops
I made two runs with the plow to layout my blind groove. I was making one more and when I got to this end the plane stalled. I pushed and won. And the plane went right on through the end. Since I would have to plug this one I made it a through groove.

way too tight
The bottom half pin on this side was too tight to fit. It took a few trim and fit dance steps before I got it to seat.

ready for glue up
The back top is wild on both drawers. After the glue has set I'll saw off most of it and plane what is left flush. I glued this up and clamped the tails to close them up and set it aside with the big drawer.

lid ready for finish
The lid has a small chamfer on the sides and the front. I clipped the front corners at a slight angle. I have done round corners and corners clipped at a 45 and I wanted to try something different. I think the chamfer and the corner clips dresses up the lid over a plain Jane rectangle.

The back top edge of the box has to be rounded over to allow the lid to open and close. That is what is delaying getting this out the door today or even tomorrow.

one coat on the box and lid
If I get around to it, I'll come back after supper and put a second coat on the lid. The box will be getting just one because I have to still do some planing on it.

A good day in the shop and it was a wee bit difficult getting myself out of my chair when the wife said dinner was ready. I felt like things had rusted in place and I needed to oil the joints to free them. i think my age is catching up with me.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
This federal holiday was first observed in 1894. What is it?
answer - Labor Day, celebrated on the first monday in September. Canada's Labor day is celebrated on the same day too.


Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 08/13/2017 - 5:09am
Lately my mistake total had been going down. However, over the past couple of days I've wiped out all of my atta boys and got a boatload of aw shits due some brain farts. Everyone makes them, some more than others, and other less than. I'm kind of in the upper middle between the half way and full. I seem to go for a while on the right side of the road and then I end up in a ditch.

I had a bad one yesterday where 3 days of working on a drawer got flushed. I thought I was doing good but not looking to check myself cost me big time. I made an error today (different than a mistake) based on an assumption. I thought something was square but it turned out it wasn't. I didn't lose anything there but it could have been as painful as yesterday's.

Mistakes and making them are part of life and woodworking. I kind of thought I made enough in woodworking already but that keep on a coming. At least the flavor of them is changing but it would nice to finally meet my quota on them.

making drawer slips
This is a left over from the bookcase I just made and I can get two sets of drawer slips out of it.

didn't come out too good
I sawed these out the wrong way. The way I did it still gave up slips but if I had sawn the opposite face it would have been much easier for me to clean up and square them.

one set
The right one is the way I should have sawn out all of them. These two are different sizes but I can still use these on the same drawer. As long as the rabbets line up, what is underneath that doesn't matter. I'm not going to use these for the drawers. I'll set them aside to use on another single drawer.

lot of work on this one
I will have to saw this into two pieces. Square up two faces and then adjust the rabbets to fit the plywood bottom.

got a bead I can use elsewhere
one set of slips done
The board gave up this set and I can get another set out of it.

plow a groove on both edges
saw them out on the inboard side of the groove
clean up the faces next
This face doesn't have to be square. Nothing is referenced off of it and nothing will be attached to it nor will it be a glue surface.

ganged together and planed
this part matters
The rabbet is too shallow for the plywood. I used the rabbet plane to get it to the correct depth. One thing I could have done was to use a wider iron when I plowed the groove. I used the one that fits this plywood. If I used the 1/4" one it would have been wider than the plywood. Instead of making the rabbet deeper, I would have been planing the rabbet flush to the plywood.

final check and tweaking the fit
I put the plywood in the rabbet and moved along the entire length checking for flush. Any spots that were still proud I planed with the bullnose plane.

labeled and stowed
I'm hoping that I don't ignore the labels and mix this up. I'm not sure that they are interchangeable.

new small drawer front on the right
planed to thickness
thought I was planing square with this
loose fit in the opening
I did the loose fit on purpose. I lost my grain flow between the drawer fronts so I'm going to paint them. The loose fit will allow for the paint film thickness. I used this drawer front to get the width for the drawer sides.

two drawer sides
I have some cup to remove
If I was going to groove the sides for the bottom, I wouldn't use this stock. Planing out the cup could make it too thin for that. With drawer slips the thickness of the sides doesn't matter that much. I could probably go down to a 1/4" and still use slips. They are glued to the sides and 1/4" is thick enough for that.

one side is flat and not rocking
I am not going nutso on this and planing it too a gauged thickness. All I am doing is making each face flat and twist free.

this side is twist free
this side has some twist
found my assumption was wrong now
I thought that this was square but it isn't. All four corners are slightly out. I used this to set the width of the sides and they ended up too short for the opening. That is when I knew something was OTL (out to lunch) and the drawer front was the winner.

an exaggeration
Not only is the drawer front off, but the sides are too. There is no way I can use them to make this drawer. The sides can be reused but the front is toast. I can square the front up but by then it would be way too small to use. At least I found it out before doing any dovetailing.

I used this yesterday and I got dead nuts square with it. I didn't jar or change the fence. I used it and put it back here. The only other thing I can think of is I used the 4 1/2 then and today I used the 5 1/2 but that shouldn't make a difference. Or maybe it does.

from the LN 51
I will have to sharpen the iron on the 51 before I can use it to square up the ends. That stripe on this is caused by a chip in the iron.

I can see the chip without help
See the two whitish dots on the edge of the iron on the right? That is where the stripe is coming from.

almost gone
On the bevel side the chip wasn't all that big. It only took about 5 minutes to remove on the 80 grit runway. I  raised a good burr too.

new small drawer front
Planed this to thickness and I got no rocking at the corners. That tells me that this is flat and twist free. I got this done and the new sides and stickered them.

a me box
I need a box for storing some big binder clips. I have a 3 compartment box at work that I made but it is too small for all the big binder clamps. This is a quick project. I ganged the sides together to saw the tails on both at the same time. This is something that I rarely do because I still have some problems getting both side pieces identical.

Here I finally got it, so I gave it a try. It is definitely a time saver and speeds up things over doing each one separately.

sawed and chopped
I paid a little more attention to cleaning out the corners on the tails and pins. It paid off when I put the box together.

off the saw
It's a good feeling having your tails and pins mate up off the saw. Today I got the tails to be 99.90% gap free. I think the extra care I did on cleaning the corners out helped it a lot. The bottom is almost perfectly flush too. I'll be able to make the bottom grooves without flushing the bottom first.

grooves done and the interior cleaned up
I sized the plywood bottom and glued the box up and set it aside to set up overnight.

stopped here
I sawed the tails on the front of the sides and marked the front. I sawed the sockets and the last step for today was the card scraper severing the corners. Tomorrow I'll chop and fit them.

went nutso on the clamping
The clamps weren't necessary as the box joinery was good and would have stayed that way while the glue set. The clamps closed up and seated the tails and pins that extra 0.01%. I'm anxious to see this tomorrow and how the inside looks. With the clamps there were no gaps and hopefully tomorrow it'll be the same.

spare lid
I was hoping to use this on the binder clip box but it is too small. The box is 12x7x4 1/2 and this is 12"x 5 1/2". I want some overhang on the box and I can do it on the front but I can't stretch this and make it longer.

more spare parts
The crest rail was a thought but I changed my mind on that. The arms I am going to use. I will use these as the hinge for the box. I will have to glue up some stock for the lid maybe. I have some 1x10 that I can plane down to a 1/2" to match the rest of the box.

for Bob D
The left drawer has more weight in it then the right one. Both are still chugging along with no hiccups well over a year later. I have rounded slips in both drawers and you can see part of one in the left drawer.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who is Nolan Bushnell?
answer - the founder of ATARI and Chuck E Cheese

Woodworking Courses Without A Computer

360 WoodWorking - Sun, 08/13/2017 - 5:07am
Woodworking Courses Without A Computer

Taking online courses in any subject, including woodworking courses, is the future of learning. It’s convenient. Bring the course directly to you. (There’s a free example posted below.) But in woodworking, being tied to your computer when you need to be in the shop practicing your new found skills is problematic. This week 360Woodworking.com took steps to alleviate that problem. The newest offerings are downloadable courses presented as a PDF with embedded video that plays whenever opened in Adobe Reader.

Continue reading Woodworking Courses Without A Computer at 360 WoodWorking.

Week in Review – August 7-12

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sun, 08/13/2017 - 2:55am

This week we released a brand new episode of I Can Do That! In this episode, Chad Stanton walks us through a hall table build using lumber purchased at the local home center. The project is stunning and we hope that it encourages our viewers to leave their excuses behind and to build something incredible! You can watch the video and download the plans on the I Can Do That […]

The post Week in Review – August 7-12 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

but I felt better........

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 08/12/2017 - 4:56am
Last night after supper I screwed the first filter on the camera and headed for the shop. I couldn't figure out on line which filter was which, so..... I tried them one at time.  None of them worked and the pictures I snapped with them all had the fluorescent light halo glare in them. I took 6 pics of the finishing cabinet with each filter from different angles. All of them were the same and I couldn't tell a real difference in any of them.  Other than the one set being a little darker than the others, they looked the same.

After taking the pics I did some web surfacing and found out the filters I have won't remove the fluorescent white halo glare from pics. The filter for fluorescent lights removes a green tint that is associated with pics taken under fluorescent lints. Tonight after work I took some pics of the finishing cabinet that came out a bit better.

my last pic
 I took this one with what I think is the fluorescent filter. The filter is labeled UV and fluorescents give off UV light but it won't remove the glare. From what I've read about photography nothing will remove this. Most lightning that I've seen in the examples has been indirect or in front of the object to be snapped.

much better pic of the finishing cabinet
The fluorescent light to the left of the cabinet I tucked up into the joists. The one above in the pic, I pulled the plug on and I put a desk lamp in it's place.  I used that to put some light in this area because with the two fluorescent lights out it was dark in this spot.

the open shot
I am not putting a knob or a handle on this door. The bottom extends past the bottom of the carcass by about 2-3 inches and that is my 'handle'. I'm trying to find a hook and eye for keeping the door closed. I'm having a problem finding one with the 'eye' plate being 3/4" in width or less. I'll keep looking and I'll find one eventually.

this side is down a 32nd
I flushed up the opposite side and the back and that was it. Any more fitting to get this in the opening will be done on the bottom.

flushed up the bottom
fits almost all the way - got stuck here at this point
cleaned up the back last
This most likely will never be seen but I cleaned it anyways. Sides have been planed too and it is time to check the fit again.

This is the look with the drawer in the opening as far as it will go. I may leave this one as is depending upon how the big drawer looks in it's opening.

layout for the finger grab hole
I made the finger hole like a sort of flattened out ellipse. I made a 1/2 pattern so I can get both sides to look reasonably alike. And I can use it on the big drawer too.

last visual check
Last chance to eyeball this and make sure I can get can one of my booger pickers in the hole.

laid out and made relief saw kits
not a good note to end the day on
When I laid this out, I looked for the bottom but there weren't any numbers. I had planed them off a few pics back. No problem I said because the bottom back is short of the sides. Now I know what the bottom is and I  have my reference back. That is what I used to layout the cutout. But on the wrong side of the drawer front.

There is no way I can fix or patch it. It is burnt toast and it pissed me off that I made such a stupid mistake. I was paying attention and being careful to make sure I was working off my reference but I didn't put the finger hole where it was supposed to be.

the before pic

the after pic
And yes I do feel better because I showed that drawer who the boss is. I shut the lights out after this and went upstairs. I have a new shop rule - one big **^@*(*^%#%^*()!!#$#@%^ mistake and I leave the shop immediately.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the largest one day sporting event in the world?
answer - The Indy 500

Painted Bucket Bench – Home Center Wood Transformed with Faux Graining

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 08/12/2017 - 2:14am

A simple project from home-center wood is transformed with faux graining. by Catharine C. Kennedy Pages 51-54 August 2014 Buy the issue here.  Faux graining is the art of illusion. Use this technique, and your choices aren’t constrained by what woods are available or what’s shown in the veneering catalogs (or your bank account); you are limited only by your imagination. With the use of simple tools and materials you […]

The post Painted Bucket Bench – Home Center Wood Transformed with Faux Graining appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Old Names on Old Tools

The Literary Workshop Blog - Fri, 08/11/2017 - 2:04pm

Most old tools are anonymous–unless you knew the previous owner personally, there’s no way to tell who owned them before you did.  But there are happy exceptions.  Two of my handplanes have a previous owner’s name on them.  And while the names don’t exactly give me a full history of these tools, they do tell me something about the men who owned them.

Mr. A. Robertson

My wooden jack plane was once owned by Mr. A. Robertson.

Wooden Jack Plane Sandusky

I know Mr. Robertson only by his name stamp on this handplane.  I got the plane from a guy in Alaska, but I have no way of knowing whether Mr. Robertson lived in Alaska, or whether the plane was brought up there by someone else later.

Wooden Jack Plane Name Stamps

Mr. Robertson really liked his name stamp.

Wooden Jack Plane Name Stamps

I mean, he REALLY liked it.

He stamped his name on this plane no fewer than 26 times!

Wooden Jack Plane Name Stamps

There are at least four name stamps on every side except the sole.  On the top, there are six.

Wooden Jack Plane Name Stamps

Mr. Robertson also stamped the wedge, and he punched his initials into the top of the iron.

At first, I thought that this was just a guy who was excited about a new name stamp, and that he got carried away marking his name on his handplane.  But the more I look at the stamps, the more I think differently.   This man was methodical–to the point of being obsessive.

If he had been merely trying out a new stamp, I would expect more irregularity in the depth of the stamps.  But the depth is quite regular.  Plus, he always stamps his name in pairs, and in each pair of stamps, one stamp is inverted.  That suggests a very deliberate method.  I think that Mr. Robertson was determined that nobody would steal his tool and be able to sand off (or otherwise disfigure) all the name stamps.  After all, it would be relatively simple for a thief to do away with one or two stamps, but not 26.  It wouldn’t be worth a thief’s time to erase that much evidence.  The fact that Mr. Robertson had a name stamp at all indicates that he was a professional, probably working alongside other professionals–a situation in which it is all too likely for tools to disappear.

The general condition of the plane confirms Mr. Robertson’s meticulous character.  The tool is quite well cared for, given its probable age.  It was made by the Sandusky Tool Co., which operated from 1869 to 1929.  That would place this wooden plane at over 88 years old at the very least.  The iron has not been ground down very much.  In a plane this old, I would expect more of the iron to be gone due to regrinding.  But if the user is careful–as I think Mr. Robertson was–an iron need not be ground very often.

Wooden Jack Plane Sandusky

Yet the plane does show wear from regular use.  The ends have been tapped regularly with a mallet, which is how these wooden planes are adjusted.  When I acquired the plane, the sole was not quite level.  It had been inexpertly resurfaced after some wear.  I doubt that the sole had been planed down by Mr. Robertson, who was far too conscientious a man to have done a job like that.

I wish I knew more about Mr. Robertson.  I wish I could compliment him on taking such good care of his tools.  I hope that he would be pleased to know that his old jack plane is still in regular use, nearly a hundred years later.  But I really, really want to know why he stamped his name on his plane 26 times.  I’m sure there’s quite a story behind that.

Mr. R. Kendall

The second handplane is about the same age as the wooden jack plane.  I picked up this Stanley #3C smoothing plane at an antique mall in Indiana.  The plane is an early type 9, which means it was made sometime between 1902 and 1907.  (Note for handplane nerds: I know it’s an early type 9 because it has a type-9 frog and body, but the lateral adjustment lever is that of a type 8, which means that the plane was probably one of the first type 9s produced, and the factory was still using the last of some of its type-8 parts.)  The plane was in remarkably good condition for its age–it merely required some cleaning and the gentle removal of a little surface rust.

Stanley #3 Smoother Restoration

This is what the plane looks like after some cleaning.

Stanley #3 Smoother Restoration

And this is what it looked like before the cleaning, but after total disassembly.

When I first bought the plane, I didn’t even noticed it was marked.  But as I was cleaning off the tote with some Murphy Oil Soap, I noticed something on the top.  It seemed to be some initials punched into the wood:

Stanley #3 Smoother Restoration

I could just make out an RK.  Perhaps you can, too.

I was intrigued.  What could RK stand for?  I thought it must be the original owner’s initials.  I didn’t think much more of it until I started cleaning the rest of the parts.

Stanley #3 Smoother Restoration

As I cleaned the lever cap, I found that under a light coating of rust, there was an etch, faint but distinct.  It was difficult to photograph, but in just the right light, you can read the name R. Kendall.

Now I knew what RK stood for!

Like Mr. A Robertson, Mr. R. Kendall is mostly a mystery.  Yet I can deduce a few things about him from this tool.  Like Mr. Robertson, he cared for his tools very much.

I would guess that Mr. Kendall was a small man, or at least that he had small hands.  The #3 is a fairly small smoothing plane, and my average-sized hands are not altogether comfortable on the tote.  It is true that the #3 cost a little less than the #4, so it could be that Mr. Kendall was merely pinching pennies when he bought it.  In Stanley’s 1934 catalog, the #3 with a corrugated sole cost $7.10 and the #4 cost $7.45–not an insubstantial price difference back then.  Yet Mr. Kendall opted for the corrugated sole, an extra expense that a true cheapskate would have avoided.  I think that the #3 fit Mr. Kendall’s hands, or perhaps his usual scale of work.

Stanley #3 Smoother Restoration

I do know that Mr. Kendall was a craftsman.  The plane is expertly cared for.  Despite its age, the wooden parts are in excellent condition, and the Japanning (the black paint on the inside of the body) is almost completely intact.

Also, the neat, cursive etching on the lever cap suggests a solid grammar-school education.  His penmanship is precise.  And the fact that this is a neat etch rather than, say, a shaky engraving indicates that he cared for the general appearance of his tools.

Mr, Kendall also knew how to adjust his plane for maximum performance.  When I got the plane, the frog had been set pretty far forward, making the mouth very tight.  Set that way, the plane will produce a fine shaving with minimal tear-out.  While it is possible that a later owner re-set the frog, I doubt it.  Frogs are not normally repositioned unless there is trouble with the plane’s performance.  If Mr. Kendall was the one who positioned the frog, it is clear that he was knowledgable and experienced with handplanes.

It is highly likely that Mr. Kendall, like Mr. Robertson, was a professional woodworker of some kind–perhaps a furniture maker or a trim carpenter.  An amateur has little need to put his name on his tools.  But on a job site or in a busy shop, tools have a way of “taking legs,” as they say.  Mr. Kendall valued his tools too highly to let them go easily.


One of the biggest changes in woodworking over the last century has been the de-professionalization of the craft.  There are still a lot of professional cabinet shops as well as a few individual artisans carving out a living for themselves (sometimes literally), but I would guess that, today, the vast majority of woodworking tools, and especially high-quality hand tools, are bought by amateurs, not by professionals.

That means that, when we find high-quality, antique tools for sale today, there’s a good chance that they were originally owned and used by professionals.  These were men who knew the value of hard work and good tools, and that’s why we have so many good antique tools available to us today.  Without perhaps realizing it, these bygone professionals have left us a rich inheritance in their tools.

So here’s to you, Mr. Robertson and Mr. Kendall!  I’m much obliged to you.

Tagged: #3, A Robertson, etch, handplane, jack plane, name stamp, plane, R Kendall, restortation, smoothing plane, Stanley 3C

Video Giveaway: ‘Build a Welsh Stick Chair with Don Weber’

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 08/11/2017 - 12:00pm

This week’s giveaway is the 2-DVD set (or the download version, if the lucky winner prefers) of our recent video “Build a Welsh Stick Chair with Don Weber” (& Friends). Confession time: I’m one of the “friends”…but I have yet to complete my Welsh stick chair. I’d set aside that week for filming and blocked off my calendar accordingly so as to keep anyone from calling me into a meeting. […]

The post Video Giveaway: ‘Build a Welsh Stick Chair with Don Weber’ appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

‘You Own a Table Saw?!’ – Safety Tips From a Hand Surgeon

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 08/11/2017 - 9:06am

This hand surgeon likes meeting fellow woodworkers – but not at work. by David Shapiro Page 64 From the April 2017 issue #231 Buy this issue I long ago lost track of how many people, upon learning of my interest in woodworking, have puzzled aloud over my table saw. They follow up with, “Do you know how important your hands are?” or, “Do you know how dangerous that thing can be?” […]

The post ‘You Own a Table Saw?!’ – Safety Tips From a Hand Surgeon appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking


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