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General Woodworking

Further Insights into Harris Lebus Sideboard

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 10/23/2017 - 9:20am

The November 2017 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine features a reproduction of a sideboard made in 1903 by the English furniture manufacturing company Harris Lebus. I built this sideboard based on drawings I’d made in 2007 from measurements of an original owned by some acquaintances. Having had a chance to visit that same original sideboard recently, I thought readers would be interested in gaining further insights and seeing details of […]

The post Further Insights into Harris Lebus Sideboard appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

saw filing and a new 140 box.....

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 10/23/2017 - 1:12am
Ran around this morning early and got all my errands done. I had to wait till 0800 because that is when most places open for business. Got my gas, food for the pie hole, and a wood run to Lowes finished it for today. Getting the errands done early left the rest of the day to do what I wanted. And that was filing the small rip saw and making a different box to stow the 140 block plane in.

Had a bit of scare when it came time to upload my pics today. I almost had an involuntary bowel movement when I saw the pic count was 349. I knew I had taken a few but this made me do a double take to make sure what I thought I saw was what was there. I must of pushed the wrong button somewhere, somehow and didn't realize it. I had to delete almost 300 pictures. And I had to go through all 349 deleting all the ones I didn't want. That ate up the better part of an hour.

quiet time work, ie before the wife wakes up
Glued it up with hide glue. I had two tails that wouldn't seat all the way so I put clamps on those. I set this aside until tomorrow. This won't be used as the 140 blockplane box. It is too tall and I found another way to stow the plane.

drew a sharpie line
I found the lowest gullet on the saw and used that as my low spot to get all the other teeth to.

these teeth are the lowest
added working on toolbox to the list
The paint has had plenty of time to set up so I'm going to put on a couple coats of shellac today and next week I'll put on few coats of poly.

using my new saw donkeys with the spacers
topside of the dolly - no sagging at all
look see at that bottom - I forgot to post these pics when I made it
dust and dirt
Paint attracts dirt and dust like magnet does iron filings. It is hard to dust or wipe it off. That is why I'm putting on the shellac and poly.

bought a 1x12 to make a new bench hook
got a 12' tape for Miles toolbox
old bench hook - almost sawed completely through it - and I used both sides
last side I used
wiped down with a damp rag - I'll work on other things while this dries
filed the teeth
The plan was to file the teeth from the heel to the toe and then joint them. This way after the jointing I would still have something to guide me when I filed the teeth again.

this is what I started with
jointing the tooth line
The shine on the heel is what I've filed/jointed already. I stopped jointing when the low teeth had their tops flattened by the file.

stopped here
If I thought this through correctly, when I file the teeth on either side of this, I should end up with them the same height.

got my first filing done after jointing
It took me about 15 minutes to file from the heel to the toe. I gave each tooth 3 swipes with the file regardless of their shape, height, etc.

not perfect but better
Before I filed this I had a big dip in the middle of the saw. That is gone and I am kind of straight but there are a few sections of teeth that are high and low.

new teeth filed
After the initial run of 3 swipes I went back and filed again. This time I looked at the teeth tops and filed those until the flat was gone.

second filing run done
I have no more flats but my teeth aren't consistent.

I'm going to road test it as is
rough looking but this is pine and it sawed very easy
not sure I did any good on improving this
I filed this again trying to even out the height/uneven teeth in the tooth line. There are a few spots where the tops are low and other spots where the teeth look like crap. After the last filing I conceded that I was pissing into a head wind with this. I did some things right and some wrong. The bottom line is the tooth line isn't even but I'm not discouraged at all. This is a skill that is going to take a while to master and maybe I shouldn't have tried this as one my first attempts at saw sharpening.

I improved the end of the toe
This is a good shot of the crappy tooth line. I had a hard time seeing and focusing on what I was filing. I did it mostly by feel moving the file from one tooth gullet to the next. I didn't look at a lot of the teeth as I filed them. Maybe that was a rookie mistake.

the middle of the saw where the big dip was
I did good on this aspect of the sharpening. The rest will come a little bit slower.

making a new shooting board
can I do this?
I thought I would be clever and offset the cleats on each end. That way as I use up one side, I can flip it over and use the other side. Good idea but it won't work. This side is set for a right handed woodworker (me). Flip it over to the other side and it is set for a left handed woodworker (not me or Miles).

the old shooting board
I will save this and cut it up to make glue sticks. There will be a lot of waste but it is better than just tossing it in the shit can.

sawing out a base for the 140 blockplane
cutout for the fence
Went with stowing the plane flat with the fence attached. Doing it this way means I don't have to make a tall box for the fence. Had to use 3/4" stock for the base because of the size of the fence. I made knife line with the marking gauge and followed that up with the japanese saw. This saw is made for making internal saw cuts - rip or crosscut.

had to removed a bit more for the flanges
now it lays flat on the base
This will be screwed to the bottom of the box.

getting a size for the box
using a mistake
This is from the box I made for my Lee Valley plow plane. I think this one was short on the width but it is oversized for the 140 box.

continuous grain flow layout
This box will be mitered and not dovetailed. I laid out the 45's so I can saw inbetween them.

long side layout
end layout, repeat both one more time

squared the ends
plowing for the dado
I thought about doing the grooves and the dado after I did the 45's but decided to do it now. Any blowout on these will be on the inside and it will be hidden with the top and bottom pieces installed.

did not like being plowed
I tried to plow the middle with the same iron I used to do the two outside ones but it didn't work. I didn't stop to figure out why but got my router plane and finished it with that.

chiseled most of it first and then used the router plane
it fits
I used the Lee Valley 1/8" iron to plow the groove for the 1/8" plywood lid and it fits. I wasn't sure on this because LV sells the 1/8" iron also as the 3mm iron.

rough miters sawn on the miter box
I cleaned these up on the donkey ear jig but first I had to sharpen the iron in the 51 plane.

two coats of shellac on the toolbox
shooting board out of the clamps
Debating on whether or not to make the 45's. It is a bit awkward to saw them on this without them.

too much to plane off
I sawed this off doing it from both ends into the middle.

dry fit of the bottom is good
miters look better than the last box I made this way
sawing out the lid
1/8" plywood saws easily but it can be a PITA sometimes finding a way to hold it so you can saw out a small piece from a bigger piece.

lid dry fit is good
I had to take two extra dance steps fitting the lid. One miter wasn't closing with hand pressure so that necessitated the planing of one long side  and then a short end.

cooking away
I glued everything on this. The plywood bottom and lid are glued with hide glue as were the miters. I want the added strength and the hold it together strength that I got doing that. Before I saw this into two parts, I am going to reinforce the miters with some splines.

I'll have two boxes come tomorrow. The box I glued up this morning at oh dark thirty (used for something else) and this one. I'll have plenty to keep me amused for a couple of more days.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Where is the London Bridge located?
answer - Lake Havasu City, Arizona (since 1968)

Thank You!

Inside the Oldwolf Workshop - Sun, 10/22/2017 - 8:32pm

I'm not sure why, but I was completely gobsmacked by the outpour of support and well wishes. I can't thank everyone enough for every thought.

Surgery was successful. I was a bit of an asshole in the PACU (Post-Op Anesthesia Recovery Unit) but not for long. I had fantastic care at every turn.

I've had relatively little pain and haven't taken more than Tylenol since the day after surgery. I'm healing fast and shaking my head at several more weeks of weight restrictions, but I promised to behave and I try hard to keep those. Now I'm down to relearning life from a nutrition standpoint and working to stay away from dehydration. It's a whole new experience.

At my heaviest I topped the scales somewhere around 340 pounds, with pre-op work with a dietician and a prescribed (but torturous) diet I rolled into the OR at #305. This morning I stepped on a scale for the first time in a long time un-prodded, and didn't cross the #300 mark. I haven't seen that number in a decade. The weight falls off fast from the surgery but the trick is to learn and keep the new, appropriate behaviors and habits during the time you are absolutely forced too behave. The surgery can be defeated, human anatomy in amazingly adaptable.

I've been home since Thursday, tonight is the first I've felt like writing, and I meant to go back to the norm and talk about woodworking but felt compelled to express my gratitude instead. Don't worry I'm to curmudgeonly to sustain conversations about much more than the craft for long. Back to words about woodworking starting tomorrow.

But while it lasts, one more time, Thank You.

Derek
Categories: General Woodworking

How to Stop End Checking in Lumber

Wunder Woods - Sun, 10/22/2017 - 1:58pm

Lumber is stacked on sticks like this to allow air flow for drying.

End checks are a common problem when drying wood. Sometimes they aren’t too destructive and don’t travel too far, but other times they make the end of the lumber completely unusable or make a nice wide board into two not-so-wide boards. These cracks form on the ends of lumber because the ends are drying out faster and shrinking more than the middle. This happens because water can easily and quickly escape out the end, which is the same way it came in, but water trapped in the middle must travel out sideways to escape, which is a much trickier maneuver.

The secret to keeping lumber from checking on the ends is simple and logical – force the ends to dry out at the same speed as the rest of the board, meaning slow down the drying on the ends. Unfortunately, there is no single, 100% effective, way to do this.

The default method for beginners is to paint the ends with latex paint. Latex paint will not stop end checking because it it just too permeable. It will make you feel good, like you are doing something useful, but that’s about it.

Beyond latex paint is wax and unlike latex paint, wax is waterproof. If applied in a thick cohesive film, wax forms a perfect barrier to keep water from moving out of the end of a board. The biggest problem with wax is application. It is just hard to get hot wax on to the end of a lot of lumber in a timely fashion.

Anchorseal is an industry standard for green wood sealing of logs and lumber. (Click on the photo to visit UC Coatings website for Anchorseal)

The application issue has been addressed by the kids at UC Coatings, who make a product called Anchorseal. Anchorseal is a wax and water emulsion made exclusively for coating the ends of logs and lumber to help prevent end checking. Anchorseal works just as stated, but it isn’t perfect.

First, Anchorseal isn’t cheap. A five gallon bucket goes for about $95. It costs enough that I thoroughly consider whether the wood deserves it. I usually save it for only the best lumber and the species most prone to checking, like white oak. Second, it still takes time to apply, and it is pretty messy. I know several guys that won’t use it in their operations because it gets on the floor and makes everything so slippery that it can be difficult to stand up. Third, using Anchorseal doesn’t guarantee that your wood won’t split. While it will greatly reduce the overall number of end checks, it isn’t uncommon to still get one or two big checks in wide boards. Many pieces of lumber have flaws in them and will split during the drying process no matter how much you try to stop them. Fourth, it must be applied to freshly sawn lumber before the end checks have started to develop for maximum effectiveness.

You can tell from my four points above that I don’t use Anchorseal very often. But, there are places that I will use it, and one is on high-quality, especially thick, flat-sawn white oak. Again, it may not stop all end checking, but it is a great tool to help prevent much of it. On many other species, like poplar, maple, and even walnut, I feel like I usually get by with minimal losses not using Anchorseal. It should be noted that my customers are usually shopping for small quantities of lumber, so they can decide on a board by board basis if an end check is problematic for them. For operations sending out large amounts of lumber to customers that are not picking through each board, using Anchorseal makes the most sense to help produce the greatest amount of useable lumber out of each bunk. At the very least, sealing the ends of the lumber lets your customer know that you did try to prevent end checking.

Fluted sticks are commonly used in the industry to promote drying and reduce sticker stain, but do nothing to reduce end checks.

My greatest gains fighting off end checking have occurred in my sticker selection and placement. While many strides have been made in the industry to produce fluted sticks that reduce sticker stain, very few people have given much thought to using stacking sticks to help reduce end checking.

Awhile back, while at a friend’s sawmill, he casually mentioned how he noticed that lumber will split on the ends, back to the first stick. He was mad that his guys where producing lumber piles that weren’t so neatly stacked, but I focused on the end checking. After that, I paid more attention to my own stacking and changed how I stacked lumber.

Place wide, solid sticks on the very end of lumber stacks to reduce end checking.

The main difference was that I started using the sticks on the ends of the lumber to reduce end checking. I focused on getting the sticks out to the end of the lumber, and I also made sure the end sticks were solid sticks, which help hold in moisture, even on sticker stain prone woods like maple. Since the ends dry out quickly, they don’t sticker stain, and even if they did the loss on the end of the lumber would be minimal. Beyond using solid sticks, I also use wider sticks on the ends, up to 3″ wide. The extra width helps hold in even more moisture and still doesn’t risk staining the ends.

In my opinion, focusing on placing wide, solid sticks at the ends of the boards is as effective as end sealing, especially in relation to cost and time savings. Again, this isn’t a perfect method, but you would be amazed at how well it works to reduce end checking. And, if you have some especially prized lumber, you can rest easy knowing that you can always add AnchorSeal to the mix to double your chances of check-free lumber.

 


Categories: General Woodworking

140 trick box.....

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 10/22/2017 - 2:42am
This wasn't supposed to be a 140 box but it ended up that way. What I wanted to do went south on me and to recover I used the 140 plane. I wish I could have done the same with my motivation today. After I left work this morning I went to Pepin Lumber and bought some 1/2" pine for the shop. After I got home with it I felt like a deflated balloon that didn't get to make fart noises first and go flying around the room.

I had grandiose plans for today and making the box wasn't one of them. I did that because the other things weren't happening.  I wanted to finish up filing the small rip saw and do some tool sharpening to do but there is always tomorrow. This is what I like about being an amateur woodworker. I have no deadlines to meet nor money to make. I can do what I please and go whichever way the wind blows me.

my Pepin haul
I was expecting only to find the 1/2" stock in 6" widths but I got a surprise. I found two decent 1/2" x 10" wide pine boards. One is 8 foot and the other is 6 foot long. This pile should keep from playing in the streets for while.

10"
This is the first 1/2" thick board I have ever seen this wide and this long before. I would have bought more but I limited storage space and I'm short on dollars this payday. I'll make a return trip next payday and grab any decent stuff then if it is available.

can you see the box here?
I put this as the lead off batter. I am going to try and make the rabbets for the dovetails by hand. The piece on the bench will be the box. It has a slight cup on one face and a hump on the other. The plan was to plane the hump and knock down the wings and make box. No going nutso to get one face  parallel to other. I will to work off of one reference face and edge and see what I end up with. I've done this before and I want to repeat it if I can.

whitish spot in the middle is the cup
This is too much to ignore. I tried to clamp it flat and I couldn't get it flat so I planed the wings off.

can't ignore the twist either
going for a continuous grain flow around the box
Pieces are rough cut to length and labeled on the reference faces.

planed them square and to the same length
lid separation point
This box will be dovetailed and I had planned to make it the same way I did the box I just made last week.

moved the lid separation point
I penciled in the half pins and then checked the first lid point and I didn't like it. The dovetail would be too small and it would also look like crap. I moved it down, making the lid a bit wider.

lunchtime
I got the dovetails laid out on the four ends and taped the two sides together. I sawed the tails after I filled the pie hole with some chinese.

marked the depth of the rabbet on all four ends
wrong choice
When I did the alternative rabbet post I used this butt chisel and it was barely working. The length of it restricted how far I could use it coming in from one end. I had to do it yesterday coming from both ends.  I will need a longer chisel to do the ones I have today.

1/2" paring chisel will work
things went south on me here
The paring chisel work went off without a hiccup. I could still see the gauge line and I switched back to the butt chisel to flatten the rabbet going to the shoulder. I missed putting the chisel in the gauge line and lifted up a chip that was below it. I knew I should have highlighted it with a pencil and not rely on feeling the chisel fall into it.

done with the 140
I had to make the rabbet deeper than I had initially scribed it to get below the depth of the boo boo I made. I'll will see how well this works.

the mail came
I bought two squares for Miles toolbox. The combo square dates to the late 1890's and the metal square is a 6" Disston, age unknown.

nice looking combo square
Fancy scrolls on the head, an intact vial, and it has the scribe pin. Supposedly this is a carpenters square because it only has 16th's and 8ths on this side and 8ths and 32nds on the other.

still square after all these years
6" Disston needs helps
The outside of the Disston reads dead nuts with the 6" engineers square but it is slightly off on the inside down towards the toe. After a little file work and the inside will be dead nuts too.

got something for me too
I've been a good boy lately so I bought a carcass saw for me. An old Disston, 14" long, and 13 TPI that was recently sharpened by Isaac Blackburn.

something is wrong but I didn't see it here
Look at the top left of the spine. See the tapered line on the saw blade just beneath the spine? I didn't at first.

ignorance can be blissful at times
The feel and the sawing action of this is totally different from the LN carcass saw that I use for everything. After I sawed this piece of pine I noticed that the saw blade wasn't fully seated in the spine at the toe. Taking my cue from Paul Sellers. I rapped the spine on the workbench 4 times and seated the saw blade back down into the spine.

didn't get it all
The line is about an 1/8" wide here with about as much space left in the spine. I'll leave it as is for now.

I now have a canted saw
nice bennie because of the 140
The shoulder gives a positive registration for the chisel and it shouldn't move as I chop from this side.

Tails done and pins are marked
gap free interior
don't like this
The other 3 corners are seated and gap free and this one is toast.

a little more clean up
I got it close up a lot so I'm on the right track. This is where I shut out the lights and headed up stairs. I play some more with this tomorrow and glue it up then.

I also made a change in the box design. I nixed making this the same way I did my last one. Couldn't think of way of making the big dado in the sides.  Instead I'll glue a 1/2" bottom to it and leave the top open. Or maybe I'll think of a lid design that doesn't need hinges.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the state tree of Delaware?
answer - the American Holly

Focus on Turning Design by Working From Larger Logs

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sun, 10/22/2017 - 2:00am

My turning ability is bound by my lathe – it has a maximum diameter capacity of 16”. That means all my accessory tools, such as my hollowing system and 50cc 20” chainsaw, were acquired because they are designed around those size limitations. The largest bowls I make with these constraints are in the 14-15” range. For years I used fallen trees with a 20” diameter as raw material. By the […]

The post Focus on Turning Design by Working From Larger Logs appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Electric, height adjustable, tilting carving bench

autumndoucet - Sat, 10/21/2017 - 7:24pm

After researching adjustable carving benches, I settled on making one à la this one made by Logs to Lumber Company. I added some maple to my old beech workbench top to make it deeper and added a suede-lined Veritas twin-screw vise to the side.  Pop-up Veritas® Prairie Dogs™ are on their way for the screw vise. I’m sure more modifications will be necessary in the future, but for now, no more back pain.

Tilting

20171012_204249.jpg

screw vise

 

 

 


Washington Desk layout.

The Slightly Confused Woodworker - Sat, 10/21/2017 - 11:04am

IMG_2796[1]

This very simple full-sized layout provides all of the major dimensions and angles needed to make the desk.

My latest project, a campaign style desk inspired by George Washington, is something of a first for me in that I am trying to make a replica without using plans. I admit that I rarely follow woodworking plans because I generally find them overly ambiguous and unclear. Normally my projects are simply inspired by furniture I see and not necessarily reproduction. Often, I will see a piece of furniture that I like, hopefully get the chance to measure it, and go from there, changing things up as needed. I never use cut lists mainly because cut lists are theoretical,  and actual woodworking is not.

As far as this desk is concerned, I am trying to make it as close as I can to the original piece using only a photograph. I know there are woodworkers that specialize in reproductions who are experts at working from photos. Unfortunately I am not one of those experts, so this project has required a good bit of guess work.

For instance, I want the desk top to have a height of around 29 inches, and that is because my computer desk at home is 29 inches tall (most desks seem to fall in the 27-31 inch height range) and for me that is a comfortable working height. The length of the top will likely finish off at around 44 inches, which was my original guestimate from the photo using the book and pen as a guide. Why likely? Because I still have to do some trimming, and that trimming may change the finished size, depending. The width of the desktop (front to back) should finish off at around 23 inches, partly because of the stock I am using, and going by the original photo, I believe it is close to the actual width of the desk shown.

The legs are a bit trickier. Most woodworkers will make a “story stick”, which work well for projects like tables and traditional desks with bases, but for this project the ‘X’ pattern of the legs make the story stick a less viable option, because I want to have the ability to see that ‘X’ in full size. So the simple solution was to draw out a side view of the desk on a sheet of corrugated paper. The drawing not only gives me an easy lay-out guide, it also provided the angles needed for the legs. And after looking at the drawing, I came to the conclusion that screwing the legs to the face of the desktop cleats is a better solution than using a mortise and tenon joint, as it will be stronger and allow for the panel to expand and contract.

Maybe most importantly, this drawing helped to eliminate a lot of measuring, and the full sized drawing allowed me to proportion the top drawer compartment to dimensions I found pleasing, and once the desktop base is completed I will use the drawing as a template to saw the curves for the drawer unit.

It’s always nice to find that the simple, low tech solution is usually the easiest and fastest. Some woodworkers prefer to use drafting programs such as Sketch-up to do layout work, but that has never appealed to me, though I do believe that Sketch up is a valuable tool. But as far as this project is concerned, I found it enjoyable to use a basic pencil, T-square, and yard stick to design the desk, and at that, I think GW would have approved.


Categories: General Woodworking

Live Edge Class at Snow Farm, Massachusetts – Part 1

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 10/21/2017 - 2:04am

  On Columbus day weekend I taught a live-edge furniture class at Snow Farm, a reputable New England based craft school located in the picturesque Berkshire mountains of Western Massachusetts. My six students faced a challenging task, to design and build furniture that presents a strong live-edge character, and to do so just in two and a half days of work. The weather was mostly nice and the food was […]

The post Live Edge Class at Snow Farm, Massachusetts – Part 1 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

6 alternatives to the 140 trick......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 10/21/2017 - 1:17am
After I got home tonight I rushed into the house and grabbed my packages and headed for the Post Office to mail them out. In my haste I forgot the address for the backsaw. The molding planes had been addressed and ready to go all week. So I had to go back home and get the address and go back to the PO. This actually turned out to be good thing. The first time I went the parking lot was full and on the return trip there were no cars. In and out in a few and back home to try out my 140 alternatives.

I came up with 6 different ways to make the rabbet like I did with the LN 140 yesterday. I didn't do the 140 again, so I now have 7 total ways to make the rabbet for dovetails. I could have had 8 but I forgot to make one with the plow plane. If I remember I'll try and make one with it this weekend.

the first batter
I thought about this today and I decided to go with it as the first choice. I am a hand tool woodworker and I should be able to do this with hand tools. I thought of using a handsaw too but I didn't need it because the rabbet isn't that deep.  One marking gauge set the distance from the edge and the other was used to mark the depth.

depth marked
made a knife wall
removed waste going against the grain
I did this until I had evened out the rabbet from the knife wall to the edge.

within a frog hair of the gauge line
making it flat
First step is to lay the chisel in the gauge line and chop upwards from R to L.  Or L to R if you are left handed. Or you could melt down because you are in the midst of an OCD attack and can't decide.

go straight in to the shoulder

left side

middle
right side
came out pretty good
I have been using chisels more lately but I was surprised by how well I did on this. There is a faint bit of the depth line still visible. To the eye this looks even, flat, and square. I'm pretty sure that this would work but it but the real test is to do 3 more of these the same.

batting second
I ran a gauge line first and then made a knife wall.

second step was setting the iron
To the set the iron so that it projects past the side I lay it on the outboard side of the plane. Loosen the iron and it will project on the side that will be up against the shoulder. Tighten the iron and you're ready to plane.

run the plane in the knife line
The plan was to lay the plane in the knife wall titled at a 45° or more to inboard and plane. With each stroke I would bring the plane back up to 90°. That kind of worked and it didn't work.


looks a lot worse than it is
At a 45 on the first plane stroke, the iron rubbed on the top of the shoulder and blew it out a tiny bit.

cleaned up
Ratty looking but it will work.

third batter
Gauge line and knife wall were done first.

setting the iron is second
no planing in the knife wall first
I planed to the outside of the knife wall until I had a bit of depth and a shoulder. Once I had that I ran the plane up against the shoulder and completed the rabbet.

no blowout this time
The right side is off just a hair high. A couple of more passes fixed that.

fixed
batting cleanup
Same first steps as the previous two. Except setting the iron is done with the sole of the plane on the bench. I loosened the lever cap and set the iron projection by feeling it with my fingertip.

planed away from the knife wall until I had a shoulder established
got a bit of blowout on the exit side
I think I could have avoided this if I had planed a bit deeper first. In my past uses of the 10 1/2 I don't recall getting blowout like this. I also didn't make a knife wall but just starting planing the rabbet bare.

done
batting 5th
This plane has the advantage of a depth stop but I don't like using it. It is hard to set and have it hold unless you use pliers. Being a skew, it makes a clean cut on end grain.


setting the iron on the knife line
Setting this fence to a precise spot is a hit and mostly miss affair. I do it by slightly tightening one nut on one fence rod, then tapping the fence until it ends up where I want it. Here I want the top right corner to be just to the outside of the knife line.

deeper than the others
I removed the depth stop so I could better see the iron while I tried to set it up. I forgot to put it back on and before I knew it, I was this deep. This plane has a smooth action and it will remove a lot of wood in a hurry. This will work but I think this is too deep for the 140 trick.


batting last
I have used this before to make and clean up stopped rabbets. Here I'm going to use the fence and see if it will work making a '140 rabbet'.

working somewhat
There isn't a lot of plane real estate hanging out on the board. The router was tippy and I had to concentrate on keeping it flat on the board. The fence was another attention grabber. It is short and way to easy too cock in either direction. And it would cock way before I could get an 'aw shit' out of the pie hole. It worked but I ended up with a slightly bumpy rabbet.


the LN router rabbet
There is a slight hump in the board and that translated into the middle of the rabbet being higher than the two ends. The lead in on the right is also not as low as the rest of the rabbet.

the rankings
either of these could be swapped
I picked the LV #2 due mostly because it is skewed, has a fence, and a depth stop.


I like the long length of the 073 vs the bullnose
the next to last ones
I would have rated the chisel higher but demoted it because it isn't as easy to do as the others. Doing one is ok but a dovetail box requires 4 rabbets. It would take the longest of all the methods. I will try doing it on shop box just to see if I can do it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Andy Griffith graduated from UNC in 1949 with a degree in what?
answer - music

Book Giveaway: Wooden Toys

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 10/20/2017 - 5:51am
Wooden Toys

Last night my kids unearthed a Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer book for a bedtime story. I desperately tried to steer them back toward our wide selection of Halloween books that I’ve arranged prominently on their bookshelf. But alas, while they’re excited for Halloween, the inevitable holiday season looms large on the horizon like the Death Star in Rogue One. Apparently I need to get my holiday planning underway. And so, […]

The post Book Giveaway: Wooden Toys appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

in and out real quick.......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 10/20/2017 - 12:51am
Made a decision to send the new (to me) back saw out to be sharpened. I could probably do it but I doubt I would be able to do with any competency worth more than a bucket of spit. I do think that I can the follow on and maintain the saw afterward.  I got the email sent and I am just waiting permission to ship it.

Making the box for it tonight is all I did. I gave up trying to find cardboard boxes a long time ago. Besides cardboard could be easily punctured and maybe in the wrong spot. I can only remembering sending out one saw in a cardboard box many, many lunar eclipses ago. It was a nightmare cutting and making new flaps because I had to cut down a larger box. Making a specific box out of wood is a no brainer to me.

french fit in foam insulation
I thought I would be clever and french fit the saw in this. I traced the outline of the saw and followed that up with a knife cut made with a sheet rock blade. This insulation was the packing in the box that my #6 came in from Timeless Tools & Treasures.  I would have used this insulation and that box but the box is on it's way to China by now and I was left with the insulation.

not cooperating
I can very easily make a downward cut with the chisel but one laterally is not working. This foam will saw quicker than a hot knife going through butter but balks at being chiseled. It doesn't like evacuation work with a chisel at all. I thought of heating the chisel and doing it that way but I wasn't sure of the fumes. I wouldn't want to wake up tomorrow with a third eye in the middle of my forehead.


saw packed up
 I used a scrap piece of pressure treated fence picket for the sides and 1/4" flooring plywood for the top and bottom. It's the same construction as the one I made for the panel rip saw.

almost ready to go
I have to get the ok for this, put the to and from addresses on a piece of paper in the inside, add few more screws, and I can ship it. The panel saw cost me $11.60 priority and if I had used priority boxes it would have cost $13 and change.  I don't expect this to cost much more than what the panel saw was.

Tomorrow I am going to try the 140 trick employing some of my other planes. I got a comment about making it with the Lee Valley skew rabbet plane which I don't doubt would work. I'll remove all doubt tomorrow on that and try a few other tools.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Which US President was taught to read and write by his wife?
answer - Andrew Johnson our 17th president

Video: Circle Jig for the Band Saw

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 10/19/2017 - 12:14pm

Band saws are great for cutting curves but when you need a perfect circle, you need a jig. I’ve used many circle-cutting helpers over the years and the design presented by Tom Caspar in the video below combines the best features from all of them. The jig is held in place on the band saw table using a bar in the miter slot and it features an adjustable pivot point […]

The post Video: Circle Jig for the Band Saw appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

How to Read, by an Oak-snob

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Thu, 10/19/2017 - 11:14am

I’ve been slow to add stuff to the blog here. Time to correct some of that. Today’s chore is splitting up some leftover bits of oak, and some newly dropped-off bits. Here’s how I read these, and how I decide what to split from a few different bolts. the first one is an old one, been split & hanging around a long time, over a year I’d say. It was given to me about 2 months ago. Free wood is sometimes not worth it. this is one of those cases. Note how the radial plane is cupped. This isn’t from drying, it’s the way the tree grew. The medullary rays curve from the center of the tree to the bark. So if I want wide flat stuff from this, I have my work cut out for me. What I do with such a piece of wood depends on several things: what I need at the time, how much effort I want to put into it, and how much other wood I have around. These days, wood is in pretty good supply, time much less so. Thus, I want to get the best piece I can from this as quickly as possible.

The ruler shows how “un-flat” the split is.

The piece was 26″ long, but with the checking at each end, I expect to get about 22″ length out of it. Just right for a joined stool stile (leg). So I opted to split a 2″x 2″ square out from right below the sapwood. First split with the froe gets off the inner twisted bits.

Next I split off the sapwood & bark. Surprise, the sapwood sheared off across the grain. Usually a log that has been around this long has punky rotten sapwood – I expect that. But to shear off like that means there’s something underneath…

And there was – some deformity curving the grain near one end. So didn’t get my 2″ x 2″ x 22″ stile. The resulting piece could be a ladderback chair front post (something I want to build, but have no time for right now. I’ve made parts for 3 of them so far this fall.) or the leg to a workbench out in the yard. I already have maybe 4 of those benches. On to the next split.

This one’s big & fresh. Just came in yesterday. Bark looks good. Very wide bolt, maybe 12″ or more.

But a big knot creating disturbed grain all around it, the full bottom third or more.

I always am working between getting the biggest piece (widest) I can, or getting the best piece of wood I can. Usually I want the best one. Which in this case, is much narrower than what I first expected from a section like this. See the ruler here, the best (straightest, flattest, least-work) piece is from the 10″ mark to 15″. So that’s what I split.

 

Now the distorted stuff is isolated in the right-hand section, destined for firewood.

Then I further split the remaining stuff into four thin boards for carved boxes, or narrow panels for the sides of some chests. Once I don’t think about where they came from, these are excellent clear, straight boards. This is a case of free wood that is worth it.

One of the older bits looked promising: wide, maybe 7″ or more. 24″ long.

But when I sighted down its length, lots of twist from one end to the other. I didn’t shoot it well enough, but you can generally read the twist down at the far end. Its right hand corner is high, as is the left corner nearest us. Means some hewing before planing. Not fatal, but maybe there’s better wood out here.

Yup. Fresh too. (that means easier to work…) Shorter, but wider.

When I scooch down and sight its radial plane, dead flat! That’s the stuff I’m after…

Gonna have lunch and find some more like this one.

 

Want to learn more about how to read these logs – Plymouth CRAFT has a weekend class coming up that’s just the ticket.  https://www.plymouthcraft.org/riving-hurdlemaking-weekend

Riving, hewing, drawknife work. Me, Rick McKee ( https://www.instagram.com/medullary_rick/  and https://blueoakblog.wordpress.com/  ) and our friend Pret Woodburn will show you all we know about opening oak logs and what to do with them.

 

 


Adventures in Teaching a Woodworking Class

Bob Lang's ReadWatchDo - Thu, 10/19/2017 - 11:10am
Last week I was at the Marc Adams School of Woodworking teaching a dozen woodworkers how to make a chair. Usually when I teach I write about the class ahead of time, but this was different from the norm. I Continue reading →
Categories: General Woodworking

The Highland Woodturner: Rotary Texturing Tools

Highland Woodworking - Thu, 10/19/2017 - 8:00am

In the October 2017 issue of The Highland Woodturner, Curtis Turner takes a closer look at the Rotary Texturing Tools available at Highland.

I have other types of texturing tools and enjoy using them, so I was eager to try out something new. I have only had these a short time, however, it is clear to me these tools can easily add new embellishments to a range of turned wood items. They are so simple to use and there is virtually no learning curve.

Click here to read more of Curtis’s review of the Rotary Texturing Tools.

The post The Highland Woodturner: Rotary Texturing Tools appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Dave Campbell Tells All About “Weekend With Wood” – 360w360 E.254

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 10/19/2017 - 4:10am
Dave Campbell Tells All About “Weekend With Wood” – 360w360 E.254

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking, Dave Campbell, Wood Magazine’s Editorial Content Chief, gives us a behind-the-scenes look at Weekend With Wood, happening in May 2018. He tells us why, in his opinion, this event is so successful. Plus, he shares all the happenings included with the spouse’s event that runs at the same time.

Join 360 Woodworking every Thursday for a lively discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more).

Continue reading Dave Campbell Tells All About “Weekend With Wood” – 360w360 E.254 at 360 WoodWorking.

it worked.....

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 10/19/2017 - 1:30am
I read Ken Hatch's blog post on the 140 trick but he didn't show the inside of the dovetails. Seeing that was what I wanted to see.  It was all I could think about at work today. When I got home I had to rush and make a sample dovetail joint. I got to see that it worked and then I went and did my errands. No since risking the wrath of the bride is there?


my toe stubs
If I had continued to file this I would have filed the toe and heel down to flat nothings. I would not know what the tooth spacing was and that is why I stopped here.

the heel
The toe and heel are pretty much in the same line with a big dip in the middle of the saw.

the middle of the saw
As you can see I have about 2 1/2 inches to go to get it flat end to end. I got a couple of comments yesterday that said to file the nubs to increase the gullets and then file the tooth line flat again. Repeat as necessary until the tooth line is flat and straight toe to heel. I'll try to do this on saturday or sunday.

setting the 140
When I do dovetails I shoot for getting them flush or just a frog hair or two proud. I set the right most corner of the iron on inside of the knife line.

I'm guessing this is maybe a 32nd deep
I'll try this first and see how it works. I still don't see a need for this to be much deeper, if any, than this.

cutting the tails
I had to try this doing the tails. It was so-so. The deeper I sawed, the more it balked but I was able to saw them all. I did the pins with my dovetail saw.

off square on this half pin
This isn't that important here and it was a different saw than I normally do dovetails with. I could correct this with a chisel but I left it as it is. Closing the interior of joint is what I'm shooting for.

tails done
I can see the step down I did with the 140 from side to side.

an added bennie
As a registration this works very well. The placement is solid and it is square in both directions - across and from end to end. This will be very beneficial when doing 1/2 blinds.


setting the pin depth
At first I thought I wouldn't be able to set the depth of the pin sockets. But by placing one face of the dovetails flush with the end, I had the depth of the pins which I marked with a pencil first. After I had sawn the pins I repeated this and used a marking knife instead of a pencil.

not too bad for hurrying
 This side doesn't look too bad considering but it is the interior that I am concerned about.

tumultuous joy and dancing in the streets abounded
I have found a new way to do dovetails such that the interior of them looks as well as the exterior. Both parts are closed up and gap free.

half pin is gappy
The tail and pin sockets are gap free.

planed them flush and glued it
the 140's nicker
I think this is useless. I tried to use on this but I didn't see the knife line. I made the knife line with a square and a marking knife. I could feel the knicker beneath the sole with my finger tip (it's retracted now) but I saw and sensed nothing trying to use it. Just as well as I have intention of using it.

glued and cooking
I labeled this and I'll put it with my other practice joinery. This will give me something to look back at and compare to what I'm doing now.

I didn't hesitate at all
I saw this on Jim Bode's tool site and I bought it immediately. I didn't think about pulling the trigger on it all.  I lost out on one plane because I thought about it and this is a plane I have wanted for a while.

finally got the pair
I got the #9 years ago and now I have it's sibling, the #60 1/2 ( in front).

nice fluffy shavings
the adjustable shoe works easily
sole is in decent shape
It has a few stains on it but no deep scratches, dings, or dents.

spin wheel
The wheel runs in and out squarely. These wheels bend and distort way to quickly when dropped on the bench or the deck. And also when someone cranks it down too far onto the iron.


iron looks good and has plenty of life left to it
back of the iron
It looks like the back was flattened. I'll check it again when I sharpen and the hone the iron my way.

precise adjuster
I got this replacement adjuster from an Australian site. There is something about it that is better then what LN has. There is zero backlash in it and it advances and retracts precisely. Derek Cohen put it out in one of his blogs and I'll check his site to find it again. I will check this on the new plane before I buy another one.

no room for it with it's mate
I will have to rearrange this end of the plane storage. I can make a shelf unit and possibly fit all the the block planes including the 102 & 103, the violin plane and maybe some other planes in it. Might be the next project out of the gate.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
This started in July of 1943. What was it?
answer - federal income being withheld from paychecks

Pop Wood Group Project: Magnetic Picture Rails

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 10/18/2017 - 8:41am

Last week, Marissa Bowers (our wonderful designer, who’s been helping us out while we seek a new permanent art director) mentioned she had been looking for a set of picture rails – and wondered aloud if it was something we could build in the shop. Ever eager for an excuse to bring everyone out to the shop, we decided that everyone in the office could use their own, and I (Brendan […]

The post Pop Wood Group Project: Magnetic Picture Rails appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

one more day of rest......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 10/18/2017 - 1:07am
The hands felt a lot better today. No twinges and by mid morning I had no more aches. I am still going to take it easy for another day. The rehab of the #6 planes can wait a little while longer. I'm sure they aren't looking forward to what is upcoming. I have plenty of things I can do while I rest and heal.

wavy tooth line
I put the saw back in the vise and started to work on the problem areas I marked yesterday. Some of them I fixed and others will have to wait and catch up. Tonight I'm seeing a few spots where a couple of teeth are higher then their neighbors.

Mt Everest
How did I miss this wavy undulating tooth line last night. I thought I had done a pretty good job but tonight I can see it is mostly crappola.

whoa big doggie
I thought I would file the high teeth back down to match the others in the line and then sharpen it again. No wonder my tooth line looks like crap. A dog's hind leg is straighter than this saw. It had not occurred to me to check for this first. This roller coaster tooth line explains why my teeth are so uneven.

I like this one
This is what I used to joint the tooth line the first time. Not a good choice considering the dipsy doodles I have in this saw. As an side, if anyone knows of a source for short files like this please leave a comment.

Lee Valley file jointer.
This is long enough to bridge some of the hills and valleys. I should be able to even out the tooth line but it may take a while.

it' better but not complete
The file is evening out the tooth line but the problem is I won't have any teeth left at the toe and the heel by the time I get to the mid section. The teeth are almost gone at the toe and heel with just the bottom of the gullets left. I don't have the skills to file a complete set of new teeth from nothing. I will have to find someone who can punch me a new set of teeth. That is the only way I can see of fixing this.

makes rip cuts easily
I looked at this saw under the magnifying glass and I am still not 100% sure of how it is filed. From the side it looks like a rip.  Looking at it from the side it kind of looks like a crosscut but it doesn't have the angles a crosscut has. There is also very little discernible set.

a couple of shoulder cuts
I am going with a rip cut. It didn't like sawing these shallow crosscut shoulders at all. The rip cut was smooth and fluid and the crosscuts were hesitant and jerky. Now I have to decide if I want to try and file this myself or send it out.

I'm leaning in the direction of sending it out and having it filed properly. The tooth line on this saw isn't perfect either. It is almost straight and there aren't any missing teeth.  If a pro does it I'm sure I can follow on that and keep it in good shape.

never thought of doing this before
I ran all three of my tite marks over the 8K stone and it made a difference.

nice clean knife line - sharp cures another problem
trying out the 140 again
I knew I should have removed the side plate last night but I wanted to see how it felt and what she could do. Doing it the right way felt real good.

nice clean shoulder
I would think that I wouldn't need to make the rabbet any deeper than this for dovetails?

side plate
This didn't come off as easily as I thought it should. Maybe it needs to cycled off and on a bunch of times to loosen up a bit. It went back on without any problems but still stiff removing it for the second time.

no slant to outboard on this practice run
slanted across the width
Put too much pressure on the heel of the plane doing the start of the cut.

corrected - flat, straight, and even end to end
the action of the plane is very sweet
skew blocks for the LN honing guide
Deneb says that this iron has to be done free hand or with the jaws that fit the iron. These are the ones I bought to do the LN skew chisels. I'll have to check the LN website to see if I need to buy a set for this iron. If I remember right they offer a 30° and 18° set of honing guide blocks.

I like this saw
I can't saw this good with my LN tenon saw. I like the feel and action of this saw a lot. I think it may become my go to tenon saw. It has thicker plate, more weight, and for me it makes it easier to saw a truer cut.

found a box for the 140
lots of room
shucks
The shaft for the fence is too long to stow upright (the way I want it). The lid won't close with it this way. I would have started on making a new box for it tonight but I don't have any stock. I have 1/2" thick poplar but I prefer pine for my shop boxes. I'll have to make a run to Pepin Lumber and get some 1/2" pine. I hope that they still have some to sell.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Juan Sebastian Elcano?
answer - he was the first person to circumnavigate the world (He assumed command after Magellan was killed in the Philippines)

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