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General Woodworking

rematch with plane #1......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 05/04/2017 - 12:32am
Before I got to plane #1 I had to go pick up my new peeper helpers. My cataracts changed my prescription so I had to get new ones. When I got to the eye glass place I was 4th in line. As in there were 4 older ladies and one younger one ahead of me. Not a good feeling. I watched one lady putting on and taking off the same 3 glasses the entire time I was there. Each time she did it she had to get her mother's opinion on it. The lady being waited on was almost done and she paid and left.

That left me thinking I was 3 people back. The two ahead of me were picking up glasses, they tried them on, looked at them in the mirror, and left. Now I was down to the mother and daughter going back and forth on the growing pile of glasses they were trying on. I felt like I was going to be here until saturday afternoon before she decided on a pair of glasses.

I had already been waiting about 15 minutes which was way beyond what I will normally endure. I was ready to leave and come back another day because I didn't see that lady being able to pick out a pair of glasses today. As luck would have it, the lady running the eye glass shop asked me if I was picking up or ordering. I said I got a call my glasses were ready.

She waited on me first and that made me smile from ear to ear. I felt sorry for her as I was leaving. There isn't enough money in this world that could have enticed me to wait that lady and her mother.

plane #3 from yesterday
This plane is going to be another fun one to figure out. I know right away that is not sharp in spite of smooth what was planed looks.

less then half of the profile showed up
stopped after trying two tries
The one on the right I did first and I don't think I was holding the plane at the right angle. That is based the 'rabbet' being angled down and inwards. I saw that after the first run and I did improve on that with the second one. The second one was also a lot harder to plane and I didn't get as much as I did on run #1.

I put this iron in some citrus acid to soak overnight. Tomorrow I'll clean it up, sharpen and hone it, and do battle with it on the rematch.

throat on plane #3
This plane didn't jam at all on me. Bob had left some comments on things to check and I started here. This iron is tight against the mortise wall and flat and tight on the bed. The iron is dull so I'll have to wait to see how well it performs after it is sharpened.

plane #1
 There is a bit of roughness on the left side and the leading edge of the mouth also has some roughness to it. The iron is tight against the wall and the it feels like it is flat and tight to the bed.  The opening on this mouth looks close to what plane #3 is.

small amount of rocking of the iron here
no rocking of this iron anywhere
iron out and checking the wedge - plane #1
The wedge is tight on the bed from the toe to the heel. From what I can see of it, it appears to be a good fit.

plane #3 wedge
It is a good fit also and it is a very snug side to side too.  The toe of the wedge on this one extends further down closer to the mouth. Plane #1 didn't go down as close to the mouth.

possible problem
This was one of the things I thought might be problem. There is a chip missing at the bottom.

this side looks good
This is the edge that should be catching and deflecting the shavings.

wedges side by side
I was expecting the wedges to look more alike. The wedge on plane #3 looks better able to eject shavings then it's neighbor.

black stuff turned out to be rust
We'll see what this looks like tomorrow after it's citrus acid bath.

checking the iron on plane #1
The iron is not moving here at all. I thought maybe it might have been flexing and allowing shavings to jam it up. I can not detect any flexing of the iron here at the mouth. It feels secure so something else is causing the jamming.

Bob said the iron was too rank
I agree with Bob on that. My shavings were too thick and coarse. The profile of the iron matches the plane sole pretty good. I played with this for a few minutes getting the iron projection as low as I could and still have it make shavings.

gripping the plane
My left hand grips the toe of the plane forward of the mouth.

my right hand grips the heel aft of the mouth
Check on the hands interfering with the shavings being ejected.

6 runs down a piece of pine
I did 6 full stroke runs and I didn't get any jamming. The reason I didn't get jamming was because the far left part of the plane wasn't touching the wood making a shaving.

thinner but still too thick
I made a few more taps on the heel to drop the iron a few more frog hairs and tried it again on piece of clear pine.

end to end shaving
I'm making some progress now .

jamming on the far left
I'm even making progress here. The jamming is only on what looks the quirk on this iron. Maybe I altered the profile of it when I sharpened it yesterday. I am making better shavings and making more of the profile today than yesterday.

the profile looks like a squished 'S'
This profile looks exactly like my casing profile molder. 

now the jamming across the mouth is coming back

shavings are better before it jams
this may be slightly off
The ridge on this point is not lining up with the ridge on the profile. I'll have to look at this with some magnification to see exactly what this looks like.

where it should be cutting
I am having trouble visualizing this but it seems that pointy thing should be making something here. Shouldn't it? There is also not much of a profile here but this is where 99% of the jamming is happening. Maybe the shavings are sliding over from the right and doing the jamming of the left?

extra ridge
This was caused by me not maintaining the same plane orientation as I planed this.

I'm good up to this point
I think I lowered the plane down and away from the edge a few degrees. It doesn't take a lot to turn a planed profile into kindling. This is where not having a fence to register causes these problems.

I'm calling the rematch a draw. I definitely made some improvements in trying to make this profile. Everything I learned here through trial and error will stick with me and help with my other molders.

one coat of shellac
I'm done with this. I duplicated the color and now the shine. More shellac will raise a shine but I don't need to prove that to myself.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was Henry Ford's first mass produced car?
answer - the model N which sold for $500 in 1906 (the model T came out in Oct 1908)

The BARN Workbench — Part One

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 05/03/2017 - 9:20am

  I have a confession. I love workbenches. My first project as a hobbyist was a workbench and ever since, I’ve been in love with all the things a good bench can do to help you be a better woodworker.   Workbench 1.0 My first bench was Tom Caspar’s Build a Workbench in a Weekend that appeared in the October 1996 issue of the excellent, but long past Woodwork magazine. […]

The post The BARN Workbench — Part One appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

POLL: What is your favorite or most important non-woodworking tool in your workshop?

Highland Woodworking - Wed, 05/03/2017 - 7:00am

For me, my favorite non-woodworking tool in my workshop is my stereo. I’d be lost without the music, but, my television is hooked up to the stereo, so I can get caught up on the latest news, too, which is especially important when there is a late-breaking event.

This stereo setup is nothing to look at. A big, powerful amp in a box for AM/FM and video switching, connected to a 7.1 Surround Sound speaker system.

One night my wife came down while I was working and asked me to turn the music down some. The living level of our home is just above the garage and the stereo speakers are immediately below the living room. Too much garage volume makes watching TV upstairs, shall we say, “difficult.”

The 7.1 speakers make good sound, but, for some real volume, you need real speakers…

…and these babies move some air. And the floor of the living room above.

I said I would, and she smiled, turned, and went back upstairs. A little while later she came back, said I had looked like “a hurt puppy,” and it made her realize how important my music was to me, especially while I was working. She said I should turn it back up.

Which, I did.
Thank you, Baby.

As often as not, I listen to audio through headphones, especially when noisy equipment would drown out stereo speakers. Still, it isn’t the same. Sometimes, I’m just in the mood for those big speakers to rattle some sheet metal.

One day, when I was at Ole Miss, I was working on genetics homework and playing some Neil Young. The Harvest album. Later in the day I saw my across-the-street neighbor in his front yard. I went over to chat.

“I heard you had the Stray Gators (Neil Young’s band on the Harvest album) on earlier, Jim.”

“Genetics. It’s more than the brain can handle without some dilution.”
“You were studying?”
“Homework.”
“OH! I was hoping you weren’t inside the house. Are your ears bleeding?”
OK, so I like my music a little loud. It started with our generation, but it didn’t end with us. Electronics were/are so enabling. And, electronics are cleaner than ever, which means loud can sound better than ever.

What about you? What is your favorite or most important non-woodworking tool in your shop? If your answer is “Other,” leave us a comment with some details.

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The post POLL: What is your favorite or most important non-woodworking tool in your workshop? appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

@Handworks 2017 – Original Roubo Print 259

The Barn on White Run - Wed, 05/03/2017 - 5:03am

Continuing Roubo’s theme of indolent leisure we have Plate 259, “Other Sorts of Game Tables with Their Illustrations” from a First Edition of L’art du Menuisier.  The image is a delightful assemblage of precise detailed representations of a variety of tables employed in activities dedicated to killing time and presumably transferring money from one person to another.  Perhaps most charming about this page is that there are some tiny creases in the paper from the original casting of the hand-made paper.  I find such features delightful, and overall the page is in most excellent condition, one of the best among the prints I have for sale.

The plate was drawn and engraved by Roubo himself.

If you have ever wanted to own a genuine piece of Rouboiana, this is your chance.   I will be selling this print at Handworks on a first-come basis, with terms being cash, check, or Paypal if you have a smart phone and can do that at the time of the transaction.

$250

OMG - 16th Century Boxwood Miniatures PT2 - and other news

Tools For Working Wood - Wed, 05/03/2017 - 4:00am

I went back to the Cloisers this past Sunday to see the Small Wonders exhibit again and also to hear a talk on the miniatures by David Esterly and Pete Dandridge. David Esterly a master carver and sculptor who has been looking at how one goes about making such small items, and Pete Dandridge is the Metropolitan Museum conservator who handled, cleaned, researched, and took apart these tiny carvings.

I attended with my friend Jeff Peachey, who is an acclaimed bookbinder with extensive knowledge of historic tools and techniques.

I learned a lot from the presentation, and also developed a few of my own theories.

The first thing I learned was that these little wonders were pretty sturdy, presumably because boxwood is a very strong and dense wood. Some of the carvings show a lot of wear. I would have thought that the fragile carvings inside would be prone to damage if the beads were shook or exposed to shock. Apparently not.

The Wikipedia entry on the beads suggests that each took 30 years to complete. This defies common sense: who could have spent their entire career on one carving? The panelists thought that almost all the beads were made over a 30 or so year period, possibly by one maker or one shop. (The works are not signed.) Why the carvings stopped being made is a mystery, with several theories proposed. Perhaps the maker retired and nobody picked up the creative baton. Another idea: the carvings fell out of fashion. At the time the Netherlands, where the carvings originate, was going through the throes of a Protestant reformation; fancy decorated prayer beads would have fallen out of use and fashion.

The exhibit includes a miniature diorama of tools (damaged) examples of the work of a Miniaturist named Ottavino Jannella C. 1654-60(see above). Are these miniature tools the actual type of tool used to carve these types of miniatures? The panelists thought possibly they were. Peachey and I thought there was no chance this was the case: the tools' handles were simply too small. When you work on miniatures, the carving tools might have been tiny but it is far easier to mount them in full sized handles.


The other thought I had was about magnification. Next to the the case of tools is a pair of cracked spectacles. In those days magnifiers existed, although given my own nearsightedness I cannot imagine anyone wearing the crude lenses of the 16th century for any length of time without getting painful eyestrain. We also know from 19th century documentation that a woodworker who wore spectacles would be considered handicapped and would not be able to keep a job. I don't have documentation saying this was also the case in the 16th century, but I can't see why it would not be. My own thought is that a trained carver who was nearsighted would love working on miniatures. The general consensus was that the carvers worked on raised benches (like jewelers). A raised bench would bring it close to focus. A nearsighted carver would have a distinct advantage over a carver with normal eyesight for this kind of detail work. Of course a magnifier would be helpful but there is a big difference between occasionally using a glass versus having to stare all day though crappy glass.

On the actual carving, most of the detail was done in layers that were then assembled. David Esterly showed a bit of boxwood where he laid out part of one layer and then started carving. What he actually did was lay out the design on a larger piece of material so he had tabs on either side of the actual work that could be used to clamp down the wood and would be removed later. He also categorically stated that carving the boxwood by holding it your hand and carving with the other wouldn't work because the boxwood is so hard you would need a rigid setup to make any progress.

When you get down to tiny details the carvings lose a lot of detail. Eyes are suggested but they don't have the detail of a larger carved eye; foliage is suggested, but not leaf by leaf. However, when you look at the piece from a normal close distance, the overall tableau suggests incredible detail, which is exactly the effect you want. So from a carving perspective, the resolution does stop, but from a viewer perspective the detail is amazing.

Pete, the conservator, has handled the miniatures and made a short film on how the balls were assembled. In general they were carved from layers, which were put together and could be taken apart (when you removed the right pegs in the right order). The outer shell would have been turned and then carved. By themselves, the shells are very beautiful and tricky carvings. Each layer they would have been sawn to rough size, as much waste as possible drilled out, and then the details carved. Spears, swords, and other small details were fitted separately at the end. I say fitted because they were not glued on, but rather fitted into a socket or hole.


Pete did tell me that the reason that the bead in Whittling and Woodcarving was disassembled was the research has shown that the bead as originally exhibited was actually assembled later, improperly from a multiple sources. Currently there are not plans to reassemble it, and it will stay as a construction study. I understand the logic but I am bummed about that.


A link to hi-res photos of all the items in the exhibit is here.

A link to the page with the video is here:

In other news this coming weekend (May 6) we are having a free class on using Lockwood Dyes. It will be taught by Herb and Jesse from Lockwood. Staining and dying wood is a bit of magic for many woodworkers so having it explained by the experts is useful.

In June, we're offering two all day modern construction classes. Since they're comprehensive all-day classes, they aren't free, but I think they are well worth the cost for anyone wanting to do modern construction. The first class is about how to design and build a Kitchen Cabinet (you go home with a small cabinet). The second class is building a Zig-Zag chair (you go home with a chair). In both cases you will be using Festool portable power tools to precisely cut and join your work. Being portable, Festool is the perfect system for someone who doesn't have the space for large stationary saws. Click here and here for more details.


Finally, if you do carve miniatures or any small work, take a look at our OptiVisors or OptiSights. Don't be like Medieval or Renaissance craftsman, who were peering through Coke bottle bottoms (an analogy that doesn't work well in the days of plastic soda containers, but you know what I mean) when you could easily slip these viewers on. They've made a real difference to me personally. I had thought I was unable to do close work anymore, but with the Optivisor I find I am back in the game.


molding planes 3, me zero.........

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 05/03/2017 - 1:24am
I usually leave work at 1525 which puts me 5 minutes ahead of the hospitals and factories being let go. Tonight I didn't leave until after 1530. I was prepping my mountain of papers for tomorrow and lost track of the time. This oversight on my part had it's consequences. If I leave on time, I get home in less than 15 minutes. Tonight is was almost 30.

I had two pit stops to make too. One was at the post office which was an in and out affair. There was no one in there but me and the mail clerk. Mailed out the planes and I'm sure he'll be surprised when he opens it up. After the quickie stop I headed for Wally World which is next door to the post office.

I wanted to get some hi gloss lacquer but they had none. The second thing on the list was soap and ice cream for the wife. Got that, and stood in line seemingly forever before I got out of there. Needless to say, shop time was severely curtailed. No bookcase work so I decided to beat myself up and try a couple of molding planes out. I have tried these before without any success but maybe tonight it would be different.

little bit of shine


Duh it's satin you maroon

 Why I wanted to get gloss but Wally World let me down again.

I'll try a couple of coats of shellac
I've tried this one before
I have since learned that this is not an easy plane to learn to use because it has no fence to guide you. It didn't stop me from trying it and feeling like my IQ was 10 points less than my shoe size. I really like the profile and I am brain dead when it comes to things like this. I will figure it out because I can be more stubborn than a mule.

chip missing on the toe
This has no effect on the plane making a profile.

progress
This partial profile is a huge improvement over my previous attempts. On this one I have almost the full profile where as on past outings I had never gotten past a small round over on the edge.

the mouth jams real quick
I tried this a few more times and I got the same crap. I made a few shavings and the mouth would jam shut. Even the mouth jamming is an improvement. On my last attempts I had problems setting the iron but with my work with my other molding planes, those experiences helped setting it here a lot.

plane tryout #2
I bought a lot of 7 planes to get this one. I had less success with this one then I did with the one above. This plane has a fence so in that respect it is a bit easier to start. I got nothing with this but a few teeny curls the last time I tried this.


partial success
My previous uses with the beading planes is paying dividends. I can feel that the plane iron is sharp and I can tell that I have the depth of the iron just about right. I got half of the profile but the other half is being elusive.


second piece of practice wood
This is the one downside to learning how to use molding planes. You waste a lot of wood and of course you can't use crap wood neither. Molders work so much better on clean, clear, and straight grained woods.

shiny spot
The glazing is caused by the boxing on the plane. I think it should be cutting which means the iron isn't set deep enough.

boxing
I got some iron peeking out on the boxing so it should be cutting and making shavings but it isn't.

the bead is the other half
I have made progress with this molder. I got half of the profile to mold on a piece of wood. Now I have to get the other half which has the bead and the quirk.

what I got
This half is clean and crisp, end to end. The first piece of wood I tried this on came out just as good.

went back to plane #1
The iron felt sharp and it can't hurt to touch it up. Instead going nutso and being blinded by a shiny bevel, I concentrated my efforts at the bottom of the bevel where the action happens. I went up to 1200 grit and stropped the bejesus out of it.

couple of things caught my attention
The first is I could feel an uptick in the ease the shavings were being taken. Sharp does up the game a notch or two. The second is the iron is a tad to deep. The shavings are too thick and coarse looking. The last thing is I am planing against the grain. I thought I had eyeballed this for grain orientation but I obviously was OTL on that. And of course, the mouth jammed several times doing this.

75-80%
I flipped the piece 180 and tried it again. I reset the iron to take a much light cut. That helped a lot and I got thinner shavings but the mouth continued to jam. It was plane one stroke and clear the mouth. Plane one shaving and clear the mouth. I must have done those dance steps 10 times to get this profile here.

from my last run
The jamming is especially bad on the far side of the plane by my finger. I didn't get any jamming on the near side at all.

the shavings have no where to go
 The mouth is kind of tight at that corner so I can see why it jamming there. What I can't understand is the why. I can't believe a plane was made with this hindrance that effects it to the point of being unusable. Even though I got most of the profile, I may be doing something wrong technique wise such as how I am holding it. It has no fence to register on and the spring lines on it I'm not too sure about. They could be for plane orientation or they may be the layout lines for the profile.

I am encouraged by the results I got with both of these planes tonight. It is an improvement over my last outing. It is just a matter of time before I either luck into the right way or I toss them in the fireplace. Since I don't have a fireplace, I will keep tying to luck into it.

plane #3
This is similar to the first plane's profile I used. This is one of the first molding planes I got. I played some sharpening the bevel but I remember mostly concentrating on removing the rust on this one. I tried to make shavings with this when I first got it and made nothing. Not even a speck of wood dust. I'll try this one tomorrow.

plane #3 profile




profile of plane #1
This is it for the molding plane fun for tonight. I wish I had the time to try out the 3rd plane but there is no time left.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What are American dollars printed on?
answer - not paper, it's a fabric of a cotton linen blend







Hollywood Part Deux

The Barn on White Run - Tue, 05/02/2017 - 5:31pm

Joshua Farnsworth posted the second video chapter of his recent visit to The Barn.

Finished an oak & pine carved box

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Tue, 05/02/2017 - 4:33pm

Then I fitted a lid onto a new box I made recently. Iron hinges – “gimmals” in the 17th century. I’ve gone over setting these before on the blog, and in the chest video with Lie-Nielsen. https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/2011/12/14/setting-gimmals-you-might-know-them-as-snipe-bills/

So I won’t go over the whole thing here. I usually mount these now in the box’s back before assembly, but I just got these from Mark Atchison yesterday…I bored the hole down at an angle into the box. Drove them in so the eye is flush with the top edge of the box. Sometimes you gotta knock it down some. I did for this one.

Then bend them over & clinch them inside. I used a steel bench dog for backing up the hinge’s eye.

Then do just about the same on the lid.

Oak & pine box – H: 7 1/4″   W: 21 3/4″   D: 14″
when it’s new, the color difference is quite stark. I’ve used a few coats of boiled linseed oil/turpentine mixture.

But they don’t stay looking like that. On the left, today’s oak & pine box. On the right is a box I made about 10 or so years ago. Same woods exactly; red oak box and white pine top & bottom. Same finish, followed by some heavy use and occasional dusting/polishing. What a great look they get…

Here’s a detail showing the patina on the older box. Patience is all it takes.

The new box will be posted for sale soon; along with a book stand & a couple other items. If you want to make a box, I have a dozen of the DVDs left, https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/new-dvds-carved-oak-boxes-hewing-wooden-bowls-spring-2017/  and Lie-Nielsen has a large supply. I’ll be teaching the box class for 4 days down at the Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking in November.

Details here http://www.schoolofwoodworking.com/woodworking-classes.html#Speciality_Weekend_Classes

I’m working on setting up a page about one-on-one classes here at my shop too – and the box would be a 4-day class there too. Details soon.

some leftover bird photos: gray catbird (Dumetella carolinensis) arrived today.

red-tailed hawk, (Buteo jamaicensis ) here year-round.

House finch  (Haemorhous mexicanus) here year-round, but more colorful now.

This one is hard for new birders – (Agelaius phoeniceus) the red-winged black bird. But you’ll note there’s no red anywhere, & it’s not black. It’s a female. I like them, nice markings.


stopped chamfer and more

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Tue, 05/02/2017 - 4:14pm

Some of what’s been going on here. Greenwood Fest is just over a month away – we have some lathes to build for the bowl turners. We got some great sawn 4″ x 10″ timbers (thanks, Rick) and I started in on boring out the slot on a couple of them. A very nice 2″ auger I got last year or the year before from Ed Lebetkin’s tool store down at the Woodwright’s School.

And Roy fine-tuned it for me; I can’t believe I’ve taken another photo of shavings. Am I becoming one of them?


I’m working over the text of the upcoming book on joinery; it’s had one first-run-through edit already. So I’m addressing some junk, and shooting some replacement photos. here’s stopped chamfers on long rails w mortises. This is a rail for a bedstead, but it looks just like a chest. First, drive the chisel in to make the “stop”.

Then, the chamfer. Lots of tools can do this, I tend to use a spokeshave to start, and a chisel to finish.

Now, the flourishing bit, a scoop cut with the bevel down.

The result.

In the joint stool book is this photo, that goes one step further and has a lamb’s tongue – but that doesn’t “go” on a rail w panels…

It being May, it’s very distracting. The migratory birds are coming north, some to stay, some keep going. We haven’t had much here in the yard yet – the Baltimore orioles (Icterus galbula) started arriving. They nest here. I always stop to look at them, they’re amazing.

this female eastern towhee (Pipilo erythrophthalmus) was just passing through our yard, they nest in the area, but we don’t have enough woods for them.

This white throated sparrow (Zonotrichia albicollis) has its spring colors on –

The others are year-rounders – but getting more lively every day. Female Northern Cardinal (Cardinalis cardinalis) and the male after…

They’re all in & out of the apple trees right outside the shop window. Makes it hard to get work done.

Wednesday & Thursday look sunny. More birds then, I hope.

 


Kerfing Planes In Wisconsin Part 2

Inside the Oldwolf Workshop - Tue, 05/02/2017 - 8:05am
Back from philosophising to sawdust slinging, or more correctly tool making. If you want to refresh where we left off on these kerfing planes the first installment is HERE.

Tool making is it's own deep subset within the greater woodworking community. There are folks out there like Jim Hendricks who spend a lot of energy collecting, restoring, and creating rare and wonderful hand tools. My hat is off to Jim and others like him (a dozen other names come to mind) and their obsession.

Though I dip my toes in the pool from time to time I know it's not for me. It is far more worth my time to buy a well made tool than muck around on my own. I will make them, (I have a half set of Roubo hollows and rounds on the short list) but one of the BIG reasons I migrated from power tools to hand tools is I was tired of making jigs to make furniture. I do harbor some of the same feelings about making my own tools.

But as there aren't a ton of prefinished kerfing planes or re-saw frames out there (Mark Harrell is selling a finished resaw kit now!!) my hand is forced.


Working off the template I made from the match planes I used for inspiration I had finished making the major cuts on the body. It was time to start shaping things to work.


I predrilled the radii for the handle and then roughed out the rest of the handle shape using a coping saw and a regular hand saw for the straight cuts. I cleaned up the flat cuts with a block plane and chisel and started to dig out my files and rasps to work on the handles.


Then danger struck! I had a somewhat independent thought. Shhh... please don't inform the NSA. My back was a little sore and it was a very nice autumn day and I was wishing I could work in the sun out on the gazebo. Sitting in a favorite chair instead of standing hunched over a vise. I connected those thoughts to the pleasantly lightly faceted surface of the spoons I sometimes carve and thought it would make an equally pleasant surface to hold as a saw handle.

I grabbed my Morakniv and moved to the sunshine. All too quickly I had the handles imperfectly perfect to touch. This really is my favorite part of this whole build and I will probably continue this trend in future tool endeavors


Sawing the kerf to fit the blade was another operation I needed to nail. No wavering in the cut, no patented Olson brand screwing up. I cut and planed shims to a measurement a wee bit thicker than 1/2" 1/4" and 1/8". The extra thickness will come off with a plane blade in the future. I put these shims in the mouth of the plane and ran my tenon saw tight up against the shim to make the cut.

The tenon saw plate is slightly beefier than the kerfing saw plate and will make moving the kerfing plate from one body to another easier.


Holes were marked and drilled for the saw nuts. Here after some time I am thinking about talking to Mark and upgrading from the softer brass to steel fasteners as they will see more "in and out" of the saw body than your average saw nuts would. Maybe in the future I will upgrade to a saw plate for each plane body but we will see where the need falls over time first.


A little stamp marking and some danish oil followed by paste wax for a finish and the kerfing planes were done. Then a decent sized commission fell into my lap and I had to put aside the re saw plane until a later date. Should be starting that any day now.

Ratione et Passionis
Oldwolf
Categories: General Woodworking

Don Williams’ Amazing Off-Grid Timber Frame Barn Workshop (Part 2)

Wood and Shop - Tue, 05/02/2017 - 7:45am
In this second part of Don Williams' workshop tour, he shares his ingenious method for melting and refining raw beeswax for use in his famous beeswax wood finishes. While working as the Senior Furniture Conservator at the Smithsonian Institution, Don and his late colleague Mel Hoviak patented what they believed to be the best

A Timely and Generous Loan

The Barn on White Run - Tue, 05/02/2017 - 5:33am

My long time friend and colleague Cor(nelis) van Horne had a project that justified his making a ripple molding machine himself.  I think the project involved making several full sized room doors with basketweave ripple molding somewhere in the design.  Recently Cor retired and moved back to his native Holland, and gifted the machine to Winterthur Museum with the condition that it be used for educational programming.  Chief Furniture Conservator Mark Anderson contacted me with the offer to use it in the upcoming Ripple Molding Machine workshop and I accepted.  One of the things we will be doing during the gathering in two weeks will be to get the machine fully assembled and tuned up so that we can crank out some molding for everyone to go home with.

I spent a half hour putting the legs back on and some other minor assembling, mostly to get all the pieces together and out of my way.

Here is a picture of a frame Cor made with some of the moldings he made with this machine.

a YUK day......

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 05/02/2017 - 12:15am
Every woodworker on the planet has to deal with one of these days. It has nothing to do with how skillful a woodworker you are or whether you are an amateur or a professional. Everyone has to deal with this. You can put it off but eventually you have to give in to it. Today was my turn in the barrel and to pony up to it.

What is it? I had to stop and clean up the shop. I meant to do it last week, and then on saturday, and it was a for sure event on sunday.  I couldn't get around in the shop anymore and I was starting to lose things again. I started before 1600 and got done at 1630.  Not completely cleaned up but I can tell the color of the deck now. Scratch getting the bookcase shelf pin jig made.

color is good, the shine sucks
I went back and read my blog posts on making these but I couldn't tell what I used for a finish. I used lacquer and shellac but I didn't write which type of lacquer I used or if I used shellac. I will put on a few more coats to see if the shine raises at all.

ouch
I haven't moved this yet and I am already feeling the pain. Did I mention this weighs more than 2 battleships? With a full combat load?And a full ship's complement?

this is it's home
No matter which way I go around the tablesaw, I have an obstacle course to go through. I chose the left side because I just had to move a couple of boxes and a laundry basket going that route.

didn't want to navigate through this
Right now the shitcan is empty but in 30 minutes it was overflowing.

one of the smartest moves I made
I used to bend down onto my knees with a fox tail and dust pan to sweep this up. That wasn't too bad but defying gravity getting back up is a bitch. And the little broom that comes with this is great for getting into all the nooks crannies without having to move a lot of crap first.

finally got to do some woodworking
Not much in the way of woodworking but at least it was something.  While the hide glue was warming up, I trimmed and fitted the molding between the corbels.

done
All these moldings are a friction fit. I think that and the hide glue will be sufficient for this.

not easy to do this
I have run out of space for my molding planes and I picked 4 duplicates that I am giving away to a friend. These four freed up enough space for the side bead planes I just bought.

done
I just have to find the address and this will be ready to go to the post office on wednesday. Tomorrow I should be able to start the shelf pin jig for the bookcase.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many World Series did Babe Ruth play in during his 22 year career?
answer - 10 (won 7)

Maybe He Just Doesn’t Like to Share.

The Furniture Record - Mon, 05/01/2017 - 8:51pm

This is George’s chamber pot:

IMG_5854

It’s not complete but you get the idea.

George must be very proud of his chamber pot in that he took the time to inlay or have inlayed his name on the lid. George feels better knowing that it is indeed his chamber pot. Can you imagine George’s horror waking up in the middle of the night and using somebody else’s chamber pot. That must be why he put his name on it.

IMG_5857

Simply “GEORGE”.

Or, I could be wrong. It could be this chamber pot was made by the George Chamber Pot Company of McKeesport, PA. Expensive way to display your company’s logo.

It could be the model name or style. You know, the George chamber pot.

Or maybe it was a retirement present. What better gift for your retiring 19th century executive than a monogrammed chamber pot?

Maybe he just doesn’t like to share…

 


@Handworks 2017 – Original Roubo Print 256

The Barn on White Run - Mon, 05/01/2017 - 4:33pm

“Calling Minnesota Fats, calling Mr. Fats.”

One of the peculiarities to me of the Roubo encyclical on furniture making L’art du menuisier was his attention devoted to gaming and game tables.  Perhaps the Parisians were as debauched as we are today, only they didn’t have internet gambling and office sports betting pools.  And speaking of “pool” the games of billiards were numerous and complex, far surpassing the pocket billiards (pool) that I am familiar with from movies and the Student Union in college.

Plate 256, “A Continuation of Description of a billiard table and the Instruments that are Necessary to this Game” is a peek into the arcane world of billiards, which is a series of games of precision bumper ricocheting on sometimes huge playing tables.  Plate 256 presents a world so foreign to me that the devices represented are completely unknown (to me).  So if you know of  billiard enthusiast who wants a bit of original First Edition Rouboiana this is your chance.

This page is in near-excellent condition with a little more border staining than most of the ones I have, but the image field is in darned near perfect condition.  The staining would be completely hidden by the mat when you get it framed.

The plate was drawn and engraved by Roubo himself.

I will be selling this print at Handworks on a first-come basis, with terms being cash, check, or Paypal if you have a smart phone and can do that at the time of the transaction.

$150

Show Me Your French Tool Racks!

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 05/01/2017 - 9:55am

I’m not looking for racks full of French tools, you understand – I want to see your pictures of tool racks inspired by Christopher Schwarz’s “I Can Do That” Tool Rack from the April 2011 issue (shown above – this link will take you to the article). It was based on a picture he saw in an engraving in a French book, and he likes it enough to still use […]

The post Show Me Your French Tool Racks! appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

plate rail progress.......

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 05/01/2017 - 1:26am
I got the plate rail done as far as I can for now. After my wife wallpapers the wall it is going on, I can scribe and fit the parts to the existing conditions. I would like to put it up in one piece but I have moldings on the both side stopping that. Now that I've taken that as far as I can, I can turn my limited attention span to the bookcase.

my best looking lilac bush
Yesterday this was all buds and today I got this surprise. I'll have to prune this down because the electrical feed is inches above it.

mostly buds still - no lilac scent yet neither
the fence lilac
This is a different variety but I don't know which one this is or the others.

the garage lilac
This had almost no flowers last year and not much in the green department too.

my problem lilac
I cut 5 main dead branches off this and I pruned all the small dead growth too. I don't think this one is going to improve. I'll give it one more year to see how it does. If it thrives I'll keep it. If not I'll dig it up and plant a new one.

I didn't forget this
I don't know how many cycles I put this through but it was more the 6 and probably around 9-10. It also has one spray coat of lacquer on it. Got a ways to go before it looks like the cell phone holder. This will take a few coats of lacquer before it starts looking like that.

found a use for the molding I sawed too short
I sawed the molding down so just the profile was left.

where it is going
I am going to put it inbetween the corbels. It will make a shadow line there and hide the butt joint between the apron and the plate rail.

straightening out the board
This board will give up the two new moldings that will replace the ones I sawed short. I will straighten out both edges, mold my profile, and saw it out. And I will use the apron this time to get the length.



opposite edge flat in the middle over to the left end

blurry pic hiding a gap at the right end
The irght side falls away almost 1/4" on this side. This I can't ignore or hide.

had to get inventive
The two dog holes by the vise I plugged, so I used this board to make up for that loss. I tried doing it in the vise but the ends were too floppy. I would rather do it between the dogs anyways.

no bead this time
checking the new molding length against the apron
I am going to put a shallow 1/8" deep dado in the aprons for the corbels. I will make two saw cuts and plow out the waste with the router plane.

bandsawed the last corble
I made 15 corbels. That gives me one for an oops or a mind fart.

the hernia buster
I don't use this that often and mostly because it weighs as much as two battleships. I have to struggle to take this off the shelf and put it on the tablesaw. I did it here because I have 14 corbels to do. I did the first one with a spokeshave and I intended to do all of them with the spokeshave. After the first one was done, I took a break and then setup the disc sander.

one wall sawn on both aprons
routing the dadoes
I plowed out the waste with the board held against the dogs. I plowed from the far side to the middle, flipped the board 180 and repeated. It took me 4 dance steps to get this to depth.

self supporting
I am gluing and screwing the corbels to the apron so a fit like this isn't entirely necessary but it was what I was shooting for.

9 self supporting and 5 not self supporting
Not a good percentage but I'll take it. These 3 and 2 from the other apron fit good but they won't support themselves.

checking stud locations
From the nail holes I measured to make sure that none of the dadoes ended up on a stud location. One is less than a 1/4" away and all the rest aren't a problem.

using hide glue

2 #6 screws in from the back on each one
need to glue this one
Fitting and gluing each one inbetween the corbels with hide glue only.

just enough
I have just enough to fill in this last corbel. The small piece left over will go at the end and another piece at the big centerline corbel.

the other small piece goes here
I like this and I think it dresses it up without over doing it
teeny piece needed here
ran out of molding
This is it for the second apron. This will do the ends but I am one corbel bay short. I'll have to make another piece for this.

taped it to the apron so I won't lose it
two new pieces
The one on the right is almost a perfect match. The one on the right is thinner and I can see it this way and laying flat. I'll keep it because I might have to use it. It should be blend in and not be noticeable at all once it's painted.

dry run
I didn't think this one all the way through. It will be symmetrical but bit strange to my eye.


better spot
In hindsight, I should have put the first corbel here. It would not be so close to the large center corbel and it would hide the butt joint between the the plate rail and the clock shelf. It'll be a conversation piece now because I'm not making a new apron assembly.

This is as far as I can go with this for now. The dry fit looks good and my wife likes it which is the only thing that matters to me.

broken 3 prong plug
Electrical connector part is good but the screw posts are toast. 2 are broken off and the third one is cracked. I made sure I bought a different style at HD this morning. I made a road trip there to get a sprayer. When I got there I found out that I had to order one, have it delivered to the store, and then pick it up. Not what I wanted so I ordered it from Amazon prime.

I didn't come home empty handed, I bought the plug and a new 4x4 1/4" sheet of plywood. Where my wife plans to put the bookcase, the top half of the back will be visible. Can't use the paper backed underlayment now. I'll keep it and use it for something else.

new plug
It works. I turned the router off and on several times and repeated it several times. The intermittent power I was getting yesterday wasn't happening today. It will probably be a long time, if ever, before this gets used again.

two coats of lacquer
I think the color is a good match but the shine is lacking. That is also killing the two of these looking the same. I'll put on a few more coats of lacquer and see what shakes out.

3rd coat just sprayed
With it wet and shine of it matches the cell phone holder color very well. This is encouraging.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first relief pitcher inducted into the Baseball Hall of Fame?
answer - Hoyt Wilhelm in 1985

one thing led to another.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 04/30/2017 - 2:45am
I had planned on having a short day in the shop today and just rest and vegetate. That didn't happen because I was going to stop after doing this but I wanted to see that. So I did that and then I wanted to see how that looked. 4 hours later, I stopped looking to see what the next thing would look like.

first speed bump
 All I had planned on doing today was to get the plate grooves done. I looked for a #1 round (or a pair) and had no luck. I am not ready to pull the trigger on a harlequin H&R set yet. So I broke out the D handle Porter Cable router. It was a bit intermittent doing the first groove power wise and completely quit when starting the second groove. It would not power up at all. Playing Mr Electrician wasn't in my top ten things to do today.

At first I thought it was the 3 prong going into the top of the D handle because I had two loose screws. I took that apart and all the wire to metal connections were still together, tight, and debris free. The screws were loose because the plastic holes for them were all cracked and two were busted. I'll have to put a new plug on this but it wasn't the problem.

I really didn't want to dig into the switch in the D handle but there wasn't anything else left to check. There is a switch in it that works just like a light switch and they are rarely not hard wired. Which means replacing it if it is toast, can be a Royal Squared PITA. I also was facing another problem with the switch. The router is 25 years old and PC no longer makes it and probably has zero parts support for it.

Lucky me because the switch checked out ok. Maybe I had a sticky contact inside of and my playing around with it loosened it up. If this had not worked I could have bypassed the switch by plugging the router into an extension cord. BTW the switch is hard wired.

got one done
 Rather then do one groove and remove that one and put the other one in dogs, I decided to do all 3 grooves on one and then use that one to set the grooves on the second one. I also changed the distance between all three. The first one is 1" OC from the back but the second one is greater than 1 1/2". It looked too close so I moved it further away. I did it by eye and didn't measure it.

had to raise it up
The fence on the router is wide and with one piece of scrap I couldn't clear the bench. With two pieces I got my needed clearance.

should have done this before
When I was working on this at the bench, I had it on edge and noticed that it had a hump. I had a hump on the other plate rail shelf too that I had to remove. I should have done this after the rough cut out and before I did the grooving.

double checking my wall clock shelf
I had checked this already by laying it on top of the clock and it looked ok.

not the clock but an example
The clock is on top of the big bookcase in the living room and I didn't take it down to check it. This is kind of what it looked like then. I don't want to make the shelf bigger but maybe I can get away with a smaller radius on the corners.

this is ok
I wasn't lazy this time when I checked it. Now I know that it fits and I don't have to make a another one.

squaring up the ends that butt into the clock shelf
biscuit jointed
Finally knowing how to set this biscuit jointer made making this a no brainer almost. The biscuit is for keeping this butt joint even and flush.

had humps on the aprons too
I had to use my 6' level as a straight edge on these.

oops, hiccup #2
Had a mind fart on measuring this molding. I did make it longer than the plate rail but they are supposed to be longer than the apron. It is a over 6" too short there.

on to other things
I'll have to make two more moldings so I moved on to working on the corbels. This edge is slightly out of square and I fixed that before checking the fit of the corbels.

fits
Of the 3 corbels I made as patterns, this is the only one that fits. The next batter up is figuring out how many corbels I need.

3 wasn't a charm here, 4 was
The first three I used, at their maximum spread, were laying out too many. I wanted 5 or seven corbels on each apron. With the center one under the clock that would give me total of 11 or 15.

in case #4 didn't work out
first step
I want the outside edge of end corbels to be 1 1/2" from the end. I stepped off the dividers until I could go from this mark to ......

to this mark at 1 1/2"
I ended up with 7 corbels.

second step run
Now that I know how many corbels I need, this second run is to mark the two sides of the corbels.  I marked 3/4" from the first mark, closed the dividers up a couple of frog hairs and stepped off again. Stepping off from the second mark will give the left side of each corbel.

it took two runs
This is where I ended up after the first run. One more adjustment and I stepped off from the left and ended up right on it. I then a laid out 3/4" from here and stepped off going left to right and ended up on the right 1 1/2" mark. I now had both sides of each corbel. I used this apron to lay out the other one.

mark for outside corbel on the left
mark for the corbel on the right
3/4" mark from the outside line
By stepping from here to the right will lay out the right side of each corbel and I should end on the right 1 1/2" mark.

first R/L wall
ended up on the 1 1/2" mark
I now have 7 corbels laid out and equally spaced between the two 1 1/2" end marks.

insurance
Even if I don't dado these, this is getting painted which will cover up my pencil lines. This edge isn't going to be painted so I marked them here.

new molding idea
molding idea #2
I really like how this looks
this is history
I finally quit here and I can wait until tomorrow to see how the new molding looks. I'll have to make it first.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
When did the New York Stock Exchange have it's first million share day?
answer - in 1886 (it was started in 1792 with 11 investors)

Beautiful Walnut and Maple Headphones + Giveaway

Wood and Shop - Sat, 04/29/2017 - 2:49pm
I recently encountered a really cool company called Meze Audio that makes beautiful handcrafted headphones out of lovely hardwoods like walnut, maple, and beech. It's really refreshing to see an alternative to plastic headphones, and to see a company that cares about craftsmanship. We woodworkers appreciate quality, craftsmanship, and nice lumber, so

two beaders.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 04/29/2017 - 1:03am
One of my cats isn't feeling so well. I think it is the female but I can't sure. One of them is letting go and leaving diarrhea all over the bathroom floor. At least it is being contained in one room and if it keeps up I'll have to take them to the Vets for a check up. This happened last year and it lasted for two days and didn't happen again until the surprise I got today. Had to clean and disinfect that present before heading for the workshop.

Matt from the Tiny Workshop asked if I would a side by side with the two different named beading planes I have. Here is the picture show.

from earlier in the week
 I planed astragals, side beads, and beading plane profiles on these edges to compare them. I picked the 1/4" side bead plane to use on the plate rail.

the two test planes
The side bead plane is on the left and the beading plane is on the right. These are the two names that came with them when I bought them. Both are 3/8" and the dimensions of the plane bodies are similar. The only obvious difference is the orientation of the boxing on the two. Both planes make the same bead in the end. (PS edit - the plane on the left is London made and the right one is American made)


3/8 side bead plane

3/8 beading plane
With the exception of the slight rabbet on the side bead profile, these beads are indistinguishable.

side bead plane on the edge
A beading plane needs a 90° corner to make it's profile. As long as the outside of the plane opposite you has real estate, it will make one.

side bead plane profile on two edges
beading plane profile on two edges
I can't see a difference in the two profiles.



beading plane on top and side bead on the bottom
the groove is determined by the iron
The width of the inboard groove of the bead is determined by the bevel width on the escapement side of the plane. (I think this is called the quirk)

side bead plane
I tried to plane a bead at an angle and I did get a partial bead. I was able to fix and get an acceptable looking bead out of it by planing it with the molder held vertically.

shaving the rabbet off the side bead
the shape and size of the bead didn't change
planing off the face rabbet from the side bead
this bead profile didn't change neither
which plane made which profile?
This convinces me that it doesn't matter which plane makes the bead. Both are easy to setup and use and I couldn't tell any differences in the use of them. One thing I do know is that a fully boxed beading plane is much better than one with a strip of boxing on the outside of the bead. A fully boxed one will wear better and last longer. But if either plane has a straight body and a tight mouth it will make a good user.

round over on the plate rail
I planed the 45 and the 22.5 with the 4 1/2. I cleaned that up and finessed it round with the block plane. I get a much better round over when I use the block plane vise the larger 4 1/2. I find it difficult to see what I am planing with the 4 1/2 and I don't get an even round over. I usually get a quasi looking bullnose thing.

you can tell that this is a half circle
I found out that my wife not only likes the hand made look, she can tell a machined and hand tool worked surface apart. I guess something rubbed off me on to her over the last 20 years or so.

the right side plate rail
The piece above is the left side plate rail and this one is the right side. Both of these butt into the clock shelf. This notch is for the plate rail to fit into the china cupboard molding on this end.

I just have to rout the plate grooves, make a bunch of corbels, dry fit it together, and paint it. I can't put it in place until my wife wallpapers and paints.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
If you are suffering from epistaxis, what is your condition?
answer - you are having a nosebleed


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