Hand Tool Headlines
The Woodworking Blogs Aggregator
This is a collection of all the different blogs I (try to) read. A whole bunch! If you have any comments or suggestions feel free to use the CONTACT page to get a hold of me. Thanks!
I tried to do some work in the shop but I had to quit before getting up any steam. I had shoveled the front walk when I got home and maybe I shouldn't have done that(where was hindsight before the act?). Now along with my hip singing songs, my back is trying to sing back up harmony. The snow I shoveled was the heavy wet crap.
|cup and hump gone|
|started the mortising|
I tried out the wooden mallet and I didn't feel any appreciable difference in it compared to my usual mallet for chopping mortises. This mortise isn't complete yet and I still haven't chopped any real meat out, but I did like the big face of the mallet. I didn't have to look at the end of the chisel when I struck it with the mallet. This may become my mortising mallet.
I stopped the mortise work because it was hurting me to stand and do this. Since I never sit in the shop to work, it was time to shut the lights off and go upstairs.
|in the dark on this|
|or use it this way?|
|shaved and trimmed|
|I see light where I shouldn't|
|big gap at the heel|
|this worked well|
|dead nuts 45° now|
This was it for me tonight and Ralphie left the shop.
What country has the lowest birth rate?
answer - Vatican
|Abid Ali, woodworking instructor|
Abid Ali, a sprightly tennis coach in his mid-Forties, can rightfully claim to be India's first DIY woodworking instructor. An avid woodworker himself, Abid has been instrumental in getting several people interested in woodworking. His story is best told in his own words:
What prompted you to become a DIY woodworking instructor?
I belong to a farming family and always saw my father and my uncles doing a lot of DIY stuff at home and at the farm. There were always tools around to tinker with. At 14, my uncle who is in England and an engineer by profession, got me some woodworking tools as a gift - a Stanley plane, a saw, two C clamps, a hammer, measuring tape and a combination square. He taught me the basics of woodworking and that's how I got hooked.
How qualified are you in woodworking?
I have no formal education in woodworking; I don't hold any degree or diploma. What I have is years of experience doing things with wood and tools. That is what I try and share with whoever wants to learn DIY and woodworking. The only reason to get into teaching was to help newcomers enjoy and learn woodworking. This is a way to share my passion for wood and tools and building things by hand. I also wanted to dispel the common misconception that woodworking is mainly about furniture making and that there isn't much that can be built unless you have a huge workshop.
|Abid's home workshop|
What is your background and what do you otherwise do?
I am a tennis coach by profession and have been teaching for over 25 years. I've been married for 14 years and don't have children. I was born and brought up in Delhi and moved to Gurgaon in 2003 when we bought a house there. That is when I made a dedicated work area for myself in the back balcony.
Do you think there are enough people in India interested in DIY woodworking?
I have seen a steady rise in the number of people wanting to get into DIY, especially women. It's a small but enthusiastic group.
What is the biggest challenge faced by aspiring DIY woodworkers in India?
There is a lot of interest in DIY and woodworking but the biggest challenge the DIY group faces is that they don't know how to get started and where to get tools and materials. They don't know if there are any classes for woodworking, what projects to take up to improve skills, etc.
I mostly teach private classes, but am not against group sessions either. However, I believe that ultimately you have to set up a work area or workshop somewhere in your house if you are going to pursue the hobby, so I help my students to identify and setup their work area. I also help them with tool procurement.
I start my class with an assessment of their level of knowledge of woodworking; then move to safety aspects; tool introduction and care; give them information on what kind of man made materials (plywood, MDF, particle board etc) are available; how solid wood is milled, seasoned and stored; how to calculate, select and buy solid wood, how to prepare a cut list; and the different characteristics of wood (soft wood, hardwood) species available in India.
|Pencil box: typical student project|
Who are attracted by DITY woodworking?
My students come from varied backgrounds. For example, Payal is a lawyer who wanted to try her hand at woodworking and DIY. She's very innovative and creative, having made a number of projects with just a handful of tools. Sanjive is an architect who has always been fascinated with wood. He likes to work on complex projects and takes his time with them, instead of working to a deadline. Sudhir is a retired CEO who pursued his passion for working along with his career. He collected a lot of tools during his travels abroad. He enjoys sharing his work by making gift items for friends, loves to work by dead line, and is a real perfectionist. He is mostly learning how to use hand tools from me. Most of my students came in touch with me through Swheta who has conducted summer workshops for children at Epicentre, Gurgaon. When I teach, it feels like I am helping a friend - it's a great feeling to see someone start their DIY or woodworking journey.
|Bench hook: first project for beginners|
Could you briefly tell us about three projects beginning woodworkers could take up?
The three projects that I like are a Bench hook, because it's simple to make but involves good measuring and marking techniques and is a very handy sawing aid; a Tray, as it will involve mixing mediums - solid wood with ply or MDF and is a good utility or gift item; and lastly a small box, as all cabinet work is ultimately box making. It gives a very good idea of joinery, assembly, hardware fitting, accurate cutting, finishing etc.
6 February 2016
In my last post I told you about my dishwasher install project. The process involved shifting the entire face frame, and associated drawers and doors, 6″ to close up a gap at the side of the dishwasher. This of course left me with a subsequent 6″ gap where the cabinets met the adjoining wall.
Milling up a piece of stock to fill the gap was a simple enough process. Measure, cut, plane and scribe to fit against the wall (nothing is ever truly plumb in a house). I then nailed it into place and filled the nail holes with a little wood putty. With the easy part done, I was faced the more daunting problem of matching the existing finish on my forty-plus year old cabinets.
Every bit of woodwork in my house is finished exactly the same as these cabinets. All the trim and every door, as well as the bathroom vanity, which is built in place just like the kitchen cabinets. So I knew it would be in my best interest to figure out how to match both the color and the sheen.
If you have been here before, you know that I generally eschew from using any toxic finish medium. My favorite finish to use is Tried & True Original oil finish. Which is a blend of linseed oil and bees wax. The MSDS literally states that consuming large quantities may cause nausea. Can’t get much safer than that unless you don’t use anything. The point is that any finishing medium outside of shellac, wax and oil is outside of my wheelhouse. So I had a little studying to do.
My best guess as to the original finish used on the woodwork in my house is that it was a true varnish. I came to this conclusion based on the sheen and how durable it has been over the years. Plus its resistance to water and alcohol. The original finish used also may or may not have contained added pigment or an underlying stain. Everything was/is just a guess. The bottom line is that I needed a finish that had an amber tone, high gloss and would hold up to water and wear. Oh, and match a color that was decades old. How hard could that be?
After hours of research and reading I found myself no closer to a solution than when I started. I basically resigned myself to the old standby, trial and error. My frustration led me to the finish aisle in Lowes on my lunch hour Tuesday. After looking at the offerings I decided to start my experimentation with a can of oil based Minwax Polyshades Pecan. I also had to pick up some mineral spirits for cleanup and a natural bristle brush.
It’s at this point in the story that I should be explaining how I completed a couple of test boards to verify color and familiarize myself with the product. That’s what I should have done and what I recommend for you to do in such a case. However, I just jumped in with both feet and applied the first coat in reckless disregard for the consequences.
The first coat went on without issue, but was a little too light in color. I waited twenty four hours and rubbed out the first coat with steel wool and applied a second coat. This deepened the color and brought the new closer to the old. Another twenty four hours passed and I rubbed out the second coat with steel wool and went for a third coat. The final result is a finish that is quite close to the original in sheen and color. Frankly, I got lucky.
The color of the new is a little more orange than the original finish, but it is as close a match that I could hope for. Especially straight from a can of off-the-shelf finish. At any rate, I have found a product that works quite well for my particular needs. Which will prove handy for the next “honey do” project, a kitchen island.
OK, I’m trying not to sound like a stupid airbag recall letter here.
We take customer service stuff dang seriously at Lost Art Press. We try to get back to everyone in less than 24 hours unless we’re on a bender. Heck, we do everything we can so that you don’t have to ask: “Where the heck is my stuff?”
As we approach fulfilling 30,000 order in a year, we want to keep things personal, quick and easy for you (and us).
In the next few weeks you’ll start to see some highly trusted people on our site who we’ve hired to make sure you get what you need and to solve any stupid problems. So to get your questions answered quickly, here’s the drill.
- Do you have a problem with your order? If so, send an email to help at lostartpress.com. We all monitor that inbox around the clock and will make sure you get your pdf or will change the mailing address on your order because you don’t know your ZIP code (not judging!).
- Do you have a woodworking question related to our books? Please post it in the forum. You can access it through our site here or directly through the forum’s host here. John and I are on this site every day. If we can’t answer your question, someone else will. The forum is not some ploy to sell ads to pay for our massive underwater server farm. We don’t have sponsors. We don’t have affiliates. We think that stuff is garbage. The forum is there for a free exchange of ideas. It costs us a lot of money every month to maintain. Use it. Or don’t.
And, of course, there is this creaky old blog that you can use to hurl invective or offer advice on ceiling fans.
— Christopher Schwarz
Filed under: Discussion Forum, Forum, Uncategorized
I’ve set up several workshops from scratch, and I’ve studied a lot of modern shops and how they are put together.
If you get to frame your own walls, I recommend a couple easy modifications that can make life easier. First, when framing, add blocking throughout so you can hang heavy cabinets with ease. For the wall between the shop and the office shown above, I’ve added two layers of blocking at 71” from the floor so I can hang a nail cabinet and a second supplies cabinet on the back wall of the shop.
Also good to consider: You don’t have to use drywall/wallboard. In my current shop in Fort Mitchell, I sheathed the studs with 1/2” OSB instead of drywall. It cost a bit more, but it was worth it. Thanks to the OSB I can pretty much put a screw anywhere for light-duty hooks and pegs.
I didn’t bother to tape the seams. I just hung it and painted it.
The secondary benefit to the OSB (and not taping it) is that shop maintenance is easy. Whenever I want to add electrical circuits or change their voltage I remove the screws for the OSB panels and do any electrical and plumbing work behind. Then I rehang the OSB. You can’t easily do that with drywall.
OSB is also much stronger than drywall. I used drywall on one wall of my shop and it has gotten beat up and penetrated (accidentally, I swear) a bunch.
Today the storefront was officially christened as a workshop. John and I moved the first workbench and tool chest there so I can build the transom windows. That was a major step for my psyche.
— Christopher Schwarz
Filed under: Lost Art Press Storefront, Uncategorized
I don’t bother too much with the smaller Record plough planes, as I have this Record 405 and it seems to work pretty well. I would recommend sourcing one if you are thinking of an older plough plane to use. The price generally hovers somewhere around 80-90UKP from dealers or eBay. Make sure you get all the bits, because sourcing tiny missing bolts, spurs and screws can make the process of buying one quite a bit more expensive.
I’ve been making a cabinet for my bathroom and wanted a bead running around the inside of the door frame. The stiles and rails of the cabinet will therefore have the bead and I’ll mitre the beads when I m&t the joints.
The trick with this plane, like any plough, is to concentrate more on the left hand, (pushing the fence against the stuff), rather than just thinking about the right hand.
Start with very light passes a the far end , keep it light, keep it very straight and don’t flex your shoulders too much. As the track cut after cut, move back, letting the next cut fall into the previous one. Move like someone who is frozen in their upper body. Once you start pulling back and pushing into the groove you’ve established, you can relax a little, but all the time concentrate on that fence, don’t let the grain push it away from the reference surface.
An early Spiers panel plane.
A Norris shoulder plane.
A Knew Concepts coping saw.
A Millers Falls 'Buck Rogers' plane.
A rare steel soled gunmetal plane by H Slater.
An early Mathieson smoother
An unused Entwistle A6.
A Philly planes coffin smoother in partridge wood with a Holtey blade.
A Spiers shoulder plane
And lastly a fine Spiers smoother
I got a package from FedEx today with an Ottawa, Ontario return address. Had I ordered something from Lee Valley and forgotten about it? That potential is not outside the realm of possibility.
Instead of a hand tool, it was a brain tool. In fact, it was a really good book that had been in the works for a decade or longer. It was published by the Canadian Conservation Institute, a renowned research and preservation treatment entity within the Canadian government, and edited by my friend and colleague Jane Down (who may be the best adhesives researcher on planet). It will be a tremendously useful resource for anyone interested in the subject of adhesives and their use for a wider range of artifact types. I expect to use it with some regularity.
The Table of Contents reveals the breadth and depth of the concepts, materials and practices covered. Were I still interested in such things, being invited to contribute would be a very nice resume’ enhancer, but at this point in my life I am just trying to live out my friend Mike’s dream to “do interesting projects with good people in great places.” Of course, for me that “great place” is The Barn.
I was recently asked if I was trying to corner the market for Thomas Day game tables? Why did I need four Thomas Day game tables? Obvious answers: too much time and money, no impulse control.
While true, it is not the whole truth.
Thomas Day was/is a compelling person. He was a third generation free man of color and the largest furniture maker in pre-Civil War North Carolina. And a slave owner. You can read an NPR article about him HERE.
I saw an alleged Thomas Day game table on eBay and watched the auction. Reasonably priced but shipping was high and I had no way of knowing if it actually was as claimed. Auction ended with no sale. I watched it on its next listing. And again on its third. I took time to read the listing and realized the table was located within five miles of my house.
I contacted the seller to see if the table was going to be offered again. He responded that he was done with eBay but there was a woman from South Carolina coming to take look at it. He said I was free to come look at it if I wanted. I wanted and scheduled a visit inviting my friend, Jerome Bias, to come view it with me.
We came, we saw, we were skeptical. The seller was quite insistent and knew all the right people in the collector community. We talked and turned the table every which way to look for evidence either way. In the end, Jerome’s skepticism lost to my desire to own. A price was negotiated and the table followed me home. The lady from South Carolina, if she existed, never made an appearance.
A few weeks later, I took the table to Martin O’Brien, a highly respected conservator of furniture in Winston-Salem. We stared and talked for a while. His belief is that there is very good chance it is a Thomas Day piece. Or he said that hoping that he could make this fairly large odd person go away.
I found the second table in Hudson, NC. I took lots of pictures and compared it to the first. There were more similarities than differences. I thought about it for a few weeks but finally gave in to the paranoia that it might be bought by someone who didn’t realize what it might be. I drove back to Hudson and acquired it. The dealer was having a sale. I paid substantially less for this one than the first. The first wasn’t that expensive to begin with.
Jerome told me about the third one at a Greensboro antiques mall. I picked it up while driving back from Martin O’Brien’s shop. I was there to allow him to examine the second table. We decided the second was likely a Day piece. The mall gave me 15% off for paying cash for the third. I paid less for the third one than the second.
The fourth one was at a large antiques mall in Burlington. Again, many of the same features as the first three. The dealer had marked it down so, once again, I paid less than for the third.
I own these four with the intent of offering them up for study. I would like to work with a group or museum to offer the chance to study them with other known pieces of Day furniture. See the evolution of design and construction, techniques and materials. A chance to learn more about early 19th century furniture.
Eventually, I want to find a home for the tables. Give others a chance to see and study them. They need to go. Eventually. We have a large house but it’s not infinitely large. I have no intention of becoming a Thomas Day hoarder.
One thing I have learned is that Mr. Day’s method of foot attachment is subject to failure. He makes a load bearing joint from an end-grain to end-grain glue joint reinforced with a single dowel.
This failure is seen on most of the tables:
On the other hand, the tables have survived for over 150 years. How long should a joint last to be considered a success?
A growing number of sushi purists are up in arms at what they see as substandard food preparation and service in a growing number of restaurants outside Japan, the Kyodo news agency reports.
There are complaints that sushi in Moscow, for example, may be served with mayonnaise while in Paris, plates are slammed down, disturbing the arrangement.
It's supposed to start raining at midnight and change over to a heavy snowfall just in time for the morning commute. I'm lucky there in that I'll already be at work for a couple of hours so I'll miss all that fun.
But weird always comes in twos for me and the second one is my wife stayed home from work today (she hardly ever does that). She had all the flu symptoms so she stayed home. When I get a cold I have never passed it on to her. When she gets a cold, within 3-4 days she'll have infected me. Getting a cold is a PITA and I don't mind them except for coughing. With my metal hip when I cough the pressure builds up in my chest and it goes right to the hip. The cough causes it to vibrate or something and it hurts like I'll rip your face off type pain. My hip didn't hurt anywhere near like this when I had the surgery like it did when I coughed. Enough of the weird on to the fun.
I had a quick and eclectic time in the shop tonight. I got no woodworking done but I got a few woodworking related items done. The first one was helping out Dave who has a vise like mine but his is toast. The screw on his vise is doing screwy things. (I couldn't resist that one). He sent me pics and after I compared them to my two vises, I think he has a garter type problem.
Dave is lucky because he lives 30 minutes from a Lee Valley store. If he can't find and fix the problem he'll be making that journey on saturday. I think if I lived within a days drive of a Lee Valley store, I would be penniless. My wife wants to go to Nova Scotia in june/july to look up dead relatives and while she is doing that I'll be standing outside the Lee Valley store waiting for it to open. So I may still get my wish to come true and be penniless.
I've gotten a quite a few comments on the post I did on the LN honing guide and LV rabbet plane iron. I learned a lot from the comments and I did some proofing on that tonight.
|Lee Valley right hand skewed rabbet plane|
|the angle on the mouth|
|double check is 30°|
|skew on the iron|
|this surprised me|
|the bed angle is off|
|grizzly sanding drums|
The last thing I did in the shop tonight was to sand down the bottle box. It was smooth to the touch and all the previous roughness was gone. It still looks kind of shiny and I'm calling it done. I won't be waxing it neither.
I drilled out the holes for the handle a 64th greater. I put epoxy in the holes and on the handle ends and stuck it in the holes. Before I put any bottles in this I'll be doing a load test on it. Tomorrow after the epoxy has set, I'll weigh the box down and get a feel for it.. I don't want this handle letting loose when Billy brings it home.
What was the annual average income for the United States at the start of WWII?
answer - a $1070 (today it's about $50,000.00)
JimM has been doling out images to me in regular increments. He is perhaps just extending my time of admiration for his workmanship and vision in replicating the HO Studley Tool Cabinet.
With his permission I am sharing them with you.
Look at the two outer planes here. These two planes are put out by B&Q. Do they look different? Yes, they do! No, they’re not. Not altogether anyway. Now the third plane, centred here in the mix, came from a very different supplier. The two companies supplying these three planes are directly in competition with one another on the high street as it were. This middle one doesn’t have plastic handles but genuine rosewood ones. Does this plane look different to the other two? Yes, it does! No, it’s not. Well not really, altogether.
I bought these first two planes from one supplier thinking I was indeed buying two very different planes made by two different makers. I wanted to run them side by side as two alternative planes for people to consider as low priced options. I think that that makes good sense on my part. Remember that one was a £10 plane and the other a £20 plane. On the one hand I was buying a B&Q plane and on the other I was buying a MACALLISTER, both sold as different planes. Indeed, looking at the packages, the planes side by side, these two planes look like Bailey-pattern #4s and indeed that’s what they are.
Unpacking the two planes I did think that they represented two styles, one a true copy of the Bailey with its lever cap and then, the same basic plane but this one with a knurled knob to set the pressures in place of the lever cam as on the other plane. Like the Record Irwin type. It was when I got inside the two planes that differences paled.
Adding the plane by Silverline, a leading UK supplier of economy rated tools, introduced yet another intriguing fact. Now I realise this may not have international significance but then again it might. Look at the three cap irons here and look closely at the stamped in words.Look at the second letter ‘O’ and then work along the letters.
Remember that the third plane (centre) was added in from a different company altogether. You can see clearly that the cap irons are all identically made and identically marked and therefore from the same maker wherever they are in the world. Aside from the cap irons and the handle materials and colours, these planes are all identical. They are basically one and the same plane made in the same factory.
Look inside the plane frog areas here too. Different colours but that’s it. Every other feature is the same and all the parts, threads interchange except with the Silverline one which has an added screw to the handle.
So, is the MACALLISTER plane a better plane then the B&Q yellow handled one?
No, it’s not. All of the other internal components are identical. This plane produces exactly the same work. Keep £10 in your pocket and buy the £10 version of the same plane. On the other hand, if you like nice wooden handles the Silverline gives you just that.
I reshaped the tote to fit my hands but the handle was fine enough and of course wooden handles do absorb sound better than plastic. Oh, you may feel the need to avoid the lever cam after my last post stating the need for working the cam, by the way. I don’t want anyone to think working the cam was a lot of trouble as someone said. It took literally no more than 5 minutes total to fix. The other two planes did not have the issue and were already rounded on the cam just fine so perhaps i got the only one with a flawed cam.
The soles to all three planes were really rather flat and the corners to the edges as good as most I have come across.
The Silverline plane was £12.90 so I think the rosewood handles, and they were rosewood, came in at about half the price you can buy them online.
The choice is yours. if you want rosewood handles you culd go that route i suppose
Oh, yes! How did the planes perform. For brand new planes, and most planes do need a little running in, they all performed just fine. In the long term we will see how well they do. I of course have stated why I introduced these here. I think that we have seen less planes showing up on eBay of late and perhaps the slow down is due to the resurgence we have engendered through our work. The top image shows the shavings straight from the package. The below one is after sharpening. I had almost nothing I needed to do to the Silverline, even though the brand has never been known for high quality.
It is a good thing I never throw anything away - especially jigs or fixtures. I do not recall how long it took me to come up with the above fixture the first time, but boy, was I ever grateful I could just grab it off the shelf this time!
The cross pin for the lever cap piened.
Needless to say, I lapped this plane as soon as I possibly could. I had to know if the lever cap pin was done correctly. Thankfully, everything came out as expected.
Even positioning the plane to file the mouth felt odd. It looked pretty weird, and I had to be very aware of the tapered shape of the inside of the front bun. I covered it in blue tape just in case.
The finished mouth.
I am really pleased with how this plane has turned out, but my absolute favourite part is using it. Similar to a spill plane, it creates beautiful tightly coiled shavings. They spill out over the low dip in the sidewall... almost like it was made for it.
Yesterday morning I approved the final proofs for Issue One. It is a tremendous weight off my shoulders to know it’s out of my hands now. Because my wife Julia and I can be rather persnickety when it comes to aesthetic decisions we poured over these pages time after time to tweak each image and text column just so until we were happy. I’ve had many nights of no more than a few hours of sleep in order to refine the design to our satisfaction. Aside from the design side of things, many hours were spent combing through the text with a fine-toothed comb. Jim McConnell, Megan Fitzpatrick, Julia, and I have been through it too many times to count. I now understand why quality publications cost what they do.
So we’ve done our bit now. Issue One is designed, edited, and the proofs approved. From here on out it’s in the printer’s court. Based on recommendation, I’m using Royle Printing from Sun Prairie, WI. I’ve been very impressed with their willingness to take on a totally green start-up like myself. The account executive, Phil, has been particularly helpful in explaining technical issues and jargon in plain terms that even I can understand. He’s heard my vision for this publication and bent over backward to make sure I can deliver to you exactly what was intended. I know this thing is going to be beautiful. I’m in good hands with Royle.
I also owe tremendous thanks to many people that have advised me along the way. Chris Schwarz (Lost Art Press), Megan Fitzpatrick (Popular Woodworking), Amanda Marko (Trouve), and Jon Wilson (Wooden Boat Magazine) in particular have been the guiderails for me as I’ve been on this journey. They’ve helped me to understand the business side of print in a niche market. Mortise & Tenon simply wouldn’t exist if it were not for their immeasurable generosity.
It’s been an indescribable experience the past nine months to watch reader enthusiasm and support surround this project. To have over 10,000 people following the progress of the magazine is humbling to say the least. I never thought M&T would grow into this so quickly. It has come clear to me that although hand tool woodworking and pre-industrial furniture is a niche topic, the interest is deep.
This is the magazine I always wanted to read and now, because of your support, we can. Thank you, readers. I’m looking forward to getting you your copy of Issue One. In only two weeks, when that truck shows up at my house with a mountain of magazines, this vision will come to fruition.
If you’re wondering how to get your hands on the inaugural issue, hop over to the website to put in your order. Please note that free shipping on pre-orders ends on the 10th (only one week away).
I had the great pleasure of seeing Toshio Odate at Woodworking in America in 2009. I have to say that it was one of the great pleasures of my woodworking life. I expected that I would learn a ton about Japanese tools and their use. What I didn’t expect was to discover what a funny, charming man he is.
Back in the fall, Popular Woodworking released two DVDs featuring Toshio Odate, “Woodworking Legends: An Interview with Toshio Odate”, and “Talking Japanese Tools with Toshio Odate”. I’ve watched these videos a few times now, and although there’s a good deal of woodworking information in them, they do an excellent job of capturing Odate’s personality.
“Talking Japanese Tools with Toshio Odate” is not your typical woodworking instructional video. Odate certainly provides a lot of information regarding Japanese sharpening stones, saws, and planes, but the real value in this video is how he contextualizes the use of these tools in terms of the world view of Japanese craftsmen and his own experience.
The real surprise for me, however, is “Woodworking Legends: An Interview with Toshio Odate”. I’m sure that most people thing about Odate’s biography in terms of his stories about his traditional, rigorous training as a woodworking apprentice, which telegraphs in how he talks about the necessity to do things the right way. What is overlooked is that he came to the United States in 1958, which meant that he spent the 1960′s hanging out in Greenwich Village. The biography blurb for this video states that Odate planned to spend a year introducing Japanese tools to the United States before moving on. Instead, he stayed and established a long career in teaching and art. If I was in Greenwich Village in the 1960′s, I would have stayed as well.
The other surprise is the overview of Odate’s art career. I’m sure that there are many folks who are well aware of Odate’s artwork, but in the woodworking world he seems to be known as the Japanese woodworking guy. Hearing Odate discuss his artwork added a new dimension to him that I didn’t appreciate before.
Altogether, there are over five hours of video here. Even if you’re not particularly interested in Japanese tools, it’s well worth spending the time getting this insight into Odate’s career. Think of it not as a Japanese tool learning experience, but an education in being a master woodworker.
By the way, he says that microbevels are are a big no-no for Japanese tools. He speaks the truth.
Note: I bought these DVD’s myself, and get no compensation for this review or from any sales of these DVD’s. The Christopher Schwarz ethics policy is in effect.
For The Love of Trees – Part Three by Stephen Melhuish With December gone and January over, the darker days of Winter can seem to roll on forever. However, Winter in a tree and hedging nursery is all about planning ahead for the whole of the growing season and, if the important, everyday chores aren’t […]