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The Woodworking Blogs Aggregator

This "aggregator" collects all of the woodworking blogs I read every day - or try to anyway!  Enjoy!

Thank you to everyone who contributed towards Walt Quadrato's battle against cancer!  Their fundraising goal was met.  Our prayers are with you, Walt!  

Be sure to visit the Hand Tool Headlines section - scores of my favorite woodworking blogs in one place.  Also, take note of Norse Woodsmith's latest feature, an Online Store, which contains only products I personally recommend.  It is secure and safe, and is powered by Amazon.

Hand Tools

Something Difficult

  If you’d like to become a better woodworker, then the answer isn’t making simple pieces over and over again, and contrary to popular belief, it isn’t about practicing every day- it isn’t about watching videos or reading wood working books and blogs like this...
Categories: Hand Tools

Today’s Free Article – Mortise & Tenon Joints

360 WoodWorking - 3 hours 25 min ago

360 drawing styleIn the first of a series of articles on “Traditional Joints for Today’s Woodworker” Robert W. Lang provides details for using mortise-and-tenon joinery in your next project. This comprehensive guide will help you use this joinery method in almost any situation.

This article is the fifth release of our first issue, and is available for free.

Click Here to Read Other Articles in the Premier Issue of 360 WoodWorking

Click Here to Read the Article Online or Download the PDF version.

This is the type of in depth content that will be available to our subscribers in 2015.


Sign up for our newsletter and come back tomorrow for our next free article.

Good day, I know hundreds of people probably ask you these type of questions, but you are the only one I thrust to give me an honest answer on the matter... So here it goes, I would like to get a few(2) Japanese saw, maybe one for fine joinery(dovetail...

Giant Cypress - 4 hours 2 min ago

Thanks for your trust, and thanks for reading. I really appreciate it.

I have a write up on picking your first Japanese saw. If you haven’t read it, it’s worth a look. I do go over why a standard 240mm ryoba and a rip cut dozuki may not be the best choice to start with.

If you want saws that are resharpenable, that’s a bit more difficult, mainly because good ones are more expensive. One way to go is to start with a larger saw from eBay, and try to tune it up. That’s a great way of practicing Japanese saw sharpening.

536 “I love lamp” the veneer lampshade

Matt's Basement Workshop - 4 hours 15 min ago
veneer lampshade

I’ve found the best light for my looks…

During the long, cold winter nights I like to cozy up with a hot cup of cider and sit down to watch a movie or read a good book, and to help set the mood (because who DOESN’T take the time to set a mood?) I’ll turn on a nice accent light and let it bath me in its warm glow.

On today’s episode we’re making a wood veneer lampshade for just the kind of accent lighting that I like to use. The project is super simple, and you can batch a whole bunch of them out to be placed wherever you think a little light needs to be cast.

The veneer I’m using for this particular project came from the folks at Oakwood Veneer at www.oakwoodveneer.com. It’s a paperback cherry veneer that’s easily bendable and cuts clean with very little splintering. It comes in a variety of species, and we already have some amazing Douglas Fir veneer waiting for another project or set of lights.

It’s not only the species of veneer you can experiment with, but also the design of the seam where the two ends meet. In this video I’ll demonstrate how to create a zigzag pattern that looks pretty sharp when the light is turned on, but there are so many options to play with, the choice is completely yours.

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Categories: Hand Tools

Chosera 10,000 update

Heartwood: Woodworking by Rob Porcaro - Sun, 12/21/2014 - 9:01pm
I still think this is a great finishing stone for all the reasons discussed in an earlier post but unfortunately it developed a large crack across the lower area after drying from a sharpening session. Fortunately, the loose area cleanly separated with a light tap with a chisel. I epoxied it in place with System Three […]
Categories: Hand Tools

Dovetail Saw Rehab

orepass: Woodworking to Pass the Time - Sun, 12/21/2014 - 6:30pm

In the spring I picked up two R. Groves saws from Gary at Hackney Tools. After a quick clean up the 14″ saw was put to work. The dovetail saw needed more work and it remained in the toolchest drawer. While waiting for the organizer board to dry, I pulled out the saw and using the skills learned at the Saw Sharpening Seminar began to assess the saw condition.


For a saw built in the late 1700’s the plate is amazingly straight and will not require any work. The handle is complete with horns and is stamped with G. C. Cockburn in several locations, it is slightly loose. The saw nuts do not fit squarely in the handle and the recess for one of the screws is oblong. A little bit more concerning is the gap between the plate and the handle which will require more investigation. Measuring the depth of the saw plate it appears that it is not evenly inserted into the back.



First step is removing the handle from the plate. The split nuts break free easily and I quickly realize why the nuts do not fit well into their resources. One of the screws is bent and they appear to have been removed and reinserted into the wrong holes. Placing the bent screw into a vise it straightens quickly.

The handle comes free with no problem and apart from some dirt and grime looks great.



Placing the plate into a vise I am able to carefully remove the back with a pry bar. The back comes off relatively easily. Once off I look at the plate and it has remained straight.

You can see in the picture where the back lay on the plate. There are many differing opinions as to why the back may lay on a plate in this fashion. Dropped saw, user adjusted, etc. my intention is to set it back in place parallel to the teeth.



The blade is cleaned using a razor blade to take care of the gunk under the back and handle, followed by a fine sanding block for a general clean up.

The gap between the back and handle is a little more puzzling. The gap is too large to be absorbed by tapping the back towards the handle along the plate. It would leave leave a 1/4 inch section of plate at the toe of the saw.



IMG_1194After some fiddling it appears that the plate was replaced at some point and the hang of the saw changed. With the back on the plate in its proper position and the plate inserted correctly onto the handle the holes of the plate and holes of the handle do not line up. Perhaps I can conclude that the position of the plate in the back along with the adjusted handle position were done together to change the position of the previous owners hand. At this point I have a difficult choice. Reinstall the plate in the existing holes with a handle and plate that do not fit correctly or re-drill the holes.


After some measuring and marking I decide that drilling new holes will provide the best support for the back and plate and will set the hang to its original design.

Admittedly I had some trepidation about drilling new holes. They will be close to the existing holes and could blow through. However with some careful drilling the job was done.  The picture shows the holes after the second set were added. Reassembled the back fits snuggly into the plate and there is no movement in the handle. The screws and screw nuts fit correctly and apart from the oblonged hole look great.


I took the saw for a quick test run prior to to sharpening and the change in hang angle feels right.

Next up sharpening.


Categories: Hand Tools

James’ Christmas Homecoming

Pegs and 'Tails - Sun, 12/21/2014 - 1:22pm
Following his exile in France, James Francis Edward Stuart (The Old Pretender – the son of James II, the deposed Catholic King of England and Ireland and James VIII of Scotland), landed at Petershead in Scotland on the 22nd of … Continue reading
Categories: Hand Tools

Help the Blog; Help Yourself

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Sun, 12/21/2014 - 8:29am

I try to be transparent about my financial dealings in the woodworking world – that’s why I don’t take free tools, wood, classes or … anything. So how is this blog funded? Simple: I am paid monthly by F+W, the parent company of Popular Woodworking Magazine. Lee Valley Tools pays for advertising space – cast your eyes to the right. But my agreement with F+W is that I am free […]

The post Help the Blog; Help Yourself appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

Today’s Free Article – Compass Inlay

360 WoodWorking - Sun, 12/21/2014 - 4:10am

Inlay_Thumbnail360 WoodWorking – Premier Issue

Inlay is a great technique to add a stronger visual interest to most any woodworking project. Join Glen D. Huey as he discusses and demonstrates how to make and install a eight-point compass inlay found on an antique desk on frame from Pennsylvania.

This article is the fourth release of our first issue, and is available for free.

Click Here to Read Other Articles in the Premier Issue of 360 WoodWorking

Click Here to Read the Article Online or Download the PDF version.

This is the type of in depth content that will be available to our subscribers in 2015.


Sign up for our newsletter and come back tomorrow for our next free article.

Diamonds Are Forever – Or At Least Here to Stay

Paul Sellers - Sun, 12/21/2014 - 2:21am

There is always the challenge of changing someone’s made up mind once the mind is indeed made up or someone has already perhaps invested time and money into something or, even more, taken offence. It’s natural to defend a stance we already agree with, after all. We all do it to some greater or less degree I think. But being close-minded means much effort is often wasted.

By now you should have realised that abrasive is available to us in many different forms and that both abrasive and steel wears away.

The Encyclopaedia Britannica describes abrasive thus:

Abrasive, sharp, hard material used to wear away the surface of softer, less resistant materials. Included within the term are both natural and synthetic substances, ranging from the relatively soft particles used in household cleansers and jeweller’s polish to the hardest known material, the diamond. Abrasives are indispensable to the manufacture of nearly every product made today.

Of course there are then pages describing the substance of abrasive we don’t need at the bench, but what we need to know is that about 95% percent of the abrasives we use in woodworking and sharpening is man made using naturally occurring materials mostly mined and then fired into the bricks we call whetstones or sharpening stones. Some of these stones work best with water and some with oil. Natural stones are generally mined or quarried and then cut to size and graded according to quality, hardness and size. Natural stones were the standard means of sharpening for centuries. Many natural occurrences affect the quality of natural stones and this leads to higher levels of waste material that can then be used to make man-made stones and so minimise waste. Man-made stones have the least waste of all.

What happens at the purchase point results from the decision you make in choosing stones or a sharpening method or system. In fairness to catalog suppliers, the range is massive and the demand great. I would not like the job of categorising and choosing the offering although it is dead simple for me; in the name of the old Bond movie I think, “Diamonds are forever.” I think I have already said this but all abrasive stones cut steel. Because powdered abrasive doesn’t remain in position but as loose particles gets pushed around, most abrasives are formed from particulate into hard blocks and wheels. Some sharpening stones rely on a slurry from the fractured surfaces to further abrade and polish surfaces of steel.P1010386

Sharpening stones

The width of most stones and plates used by woodworkers is between 25-30mm thick by 50-75mm wide and 200-250mm long, but larger stones and plates are made and used. I use 75mm by 200mm (3” by 8”) diamond plates.

Stones today might still be generally categorised under the generic term whetstone but it’s an older term, which simply means sharpening stone. Oilstones are whetstones as are waterstones as are diamond plates. These stones are made up of solid particulate graded according to coarseness except for the diamond plates which are steel based and surface coated with diamond particles in different grades. Diamonds are the hardest of all substances and are the most wear resistant. All other stones start out flat and wear down throughout the sharpening process. This wear forms a curved or hollowed surface. The modern trend is to continually flatten the whole surface of stones and I believe that this is somewhat valid if indeed the stone is hollowing and not just curving. In a previous post I told you that it’s simply a method to combine the use of oval motions with overhanging the long edges of the stones to keep the stones flat across the narrower width throughout sharpening. This is to even out the wear, but this of course is only practical with wider blades such as bench plane irons and wider chisels 1” and up. The long curve, as distinct from hollowed or dished, doesn’t need to be flattened really, but the reason for flattening is mostly  the initial ease. You must then figure this into the equation because constant flattening then negates the initial ease.

Do all stones need to be dead flat?

P1010398A dished stone is very handy to have around P1010384Flat and straight and curved and convex – I use both

There can be no doubt at all that all stones were worn to curved and/or hollowed surfaces throughout the centuries and millennia. It was not because they couldn’t flatten stones but because for general use there  was little need to. It also meant that they knew the necessity to manipulate the steel blades they were honing or grinding to keep stones more evenly shaped or shaped how they wanted them shaping — how they ‘liked’ them. When I used oilstones I did that too, mostly because I liked to stop my stones from hollowing. I would dare to go much further than this and say that in some cases, for curved irons, gouges and such, they relied on curved surfaces customised by their individuality in the same way craftsmen and women through the millennia developed shapes to metals and clays and glass and fabrics by eye and arm movements and could replicate exact shapes over and over with barely any discernible differences. Curved surfaces along the length of a stone still facilitates a good cutting edge without compromise in any way at all, but working with narrower tools such as 1/4”, 3/8” chisels, plough plane irons and such caused gouging and hollows to the stones that they couldn’t just let go because these causes ever-deepening hollows that, left uncorrected, renders a stone unusable for wider plane irons.P1010397 Now let’s look at hollowed surfaces for a just a minute. I remember one time using a hollowed stone to sharpen my edge on a number 4 1/2 plane iron. After two strokes the man who’s stone I borrowed told me to stop as I was ruining his stone. I was holding the iron at the wrong angle or a different angle from the one he would usually use. When he honed his iron the sound was smooth but when I honed it was more a coarse grating sound. He showed me the angle he honed at, which was more elongated along the length of the stone. This meant that the cutting edge came out with his preferred gentle camber along the edge of the cutting iron. I was 16 years old. I understood then that not all stones needed to be flat. You see, for me, the question is who is it in this generation that demands flatness to every sharpening stone? It wasn’t heresy to have curved stones then and it isn’t today. P1010403A hollowed stone may vary in depth but, by adjusting the angle of presentation longitudinally and laterally, you can create diversely varied curves to the cutting edges of tools according to task. Many craftsmen used a cambered iron in those days. It was more common than we think. That said, you can create cambered irons on flat stones too. To do that I might use a figure of eight method, but I can simply roll the iron too. Scrub planes are bench planes that employ the deepest curves. The problem with hollowed stones is the effect they have on the bevel of the tools such as chisels. If the stone is hollowed then the bevel is convex in both directions and the chisel edge of say a 1” chisel or a plane iron cannot be straight. In most chisel work we rely on the edges being as close to straight as possible. That means flat becomes generally a necessity. Flipping the chisels over and using the hollowed or even curved stone for the flat face is obviously devastating because even after just a few strokes it’s a lot of work to reflatten the face to remove the now curved corners. 

P1010405Hollowed stone P1010406Flat across but curved along P1010396Flat faces curve corners on hollowed stones – not good!

Many people have restructured their thought processes. At shows about five years ago salespeople and gurus were set up with waterstones, flattening stones and baths of dirty water. No one would have set up with oilstones at that time because even though they worked fine and were clean and easy to use, they had become old fashioned and out dated. Today it’s changed all the more and the same people once selling waterstones are now set up selling diamond plates of different types because, I think, mostly people saw that flattening waterstones was messy looking, dirty wet, can be expensive and time consuming and oilstones are, well, old fashioned. Other stones like ceramic stones are options too and my choice outside of diamond plates might well be ceramic stones but they are not so easy to find. That said, my concern is getting people to the work at as low a cost as possible and especially for those who just don’t have the money for expensive stones and plates. The lowest cost start up is using stones. They cut steel effectively and they are not that expensive generally but you have to work at stopping them from dishing and especially is this so with narrow chisels and plane irons. It’s not so much the wider plane irons that cause the dishing and uneven wear issues although they do too, it’s the narrow blades that cut deeply and unevenly.

Concluding preference

Personally I concluded long ago that flat diamond plates are the simplest and most effective long term solution to almost all of my sharpening edge tools. Long term they prove the cheapest too. I prefer non mechanical methods because in general it’s faster and more effective and very convenient. Every chisel and plane iron in the New Legacy woodworking school is still sharpened using diamond plates only and they (both tool and plates) do last and last well. I value what our forebears developed using stones alone and want to respect that their work was exemplary using dished stones and often stones unequal in quality to their ambitions. Stone makers have given us a vast array of water stones to work with and solutions to flatness and we can indeed keep one side curved and the other flat to reduce sharpening time or have separate stones for different tasks and tools. It’s still confusing to thumb through a tool catalog be that paper copy or online. Too much info’ creates a dearth of what it takes to understand it and that’s attention.  Not many of us working people have the time to ‘pay‘ attention. I’m not sure if that’s going to change.

The post Diamonds Are Forever – Or At Least Here to Stay appeared first on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Plane ole videos

ZK Project Notebook - Sat, 12/20/2014 - 8:07pm
Some videos of my small planes. First up, a round up of some of a bunch of mitres. There is a mix of peined and brazed bodies. All have a welded ramp. This video shows a wedged infill [style] mitre … Continue reading
Categories: Hand Tools

Now Taking Commissions...

The Workbench Diary - Sat, 12/20/2014 - 7:56pm

Categories: Hand Tools

A small box

ZK Project Notebook - Sat, 12/20/2014 - 1:39pm
A  small box to hold a sine bar. I made this out of a white oak branch, used the milling machine to cut the mortise, glued on a bottom (because I liked the “real” bottom better as the top) and … Continue reading
Categories: Hand Tools

A type 14 Stanley #5C restored.

time tested tools - Sat, 12/20/2014 - 11:39am

I don’t have any before pictures, because this beauty came with a type 20/21 frog with the folded lateral, so I wasn’t even going to do anything with it. I changed my mind more just to see how much work it would take, since it was a jack anyhow, I figured it would be ok. I thought it was strange that it had rosewood, but I didn’t think to hard on it.

On closer inspection though, I found this wonderful type 14. Based on the broken tote tip, I would say it was dropped and the original frog busted.

I had the correct frog, so its all back to normal now.

I didn’t do the tote repair, its an old repair which seems very solid. I just sanded it out and refinished, leaving the history intact.


Check out my tools for sale…..

Categories: Hand Tools

Lesson No. 3

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Sat, 12/20/2014 - 11:19am


The Tale of the Foul-mouthed Countertop Guy can be viewed through a lot of filters: that of the artisan, the customer, macroeconomics and on and on.

However the lesson embedded in the story has nothing directly to do with haggling, the value of craft or Socialism.

Instead, it is about the word “no.”

Run your business so you always, always have the power to say “no.” No to a supplier, a customer, a request for proposal (RFP), an employee. Never overextend yourself or your business so you are powerless and must say “yes” to the customer who demands an unreasonable price, the supplier who treats you like a gnat, a piece of work that is dangerous, an employee who does not pull his or her weight.

Take away whatever you like from the story, but that was the intended lesson, like it or no. And I do like no (though I’m quite polite when I use the word).

— Christopher Schwarz

Filed under: Personal Favorites
Categories: Hand Tools

Wonderful Hand Made Box!

David Barron Furniture - Sat, 12/20/2014 - 9:51am

A customer from Pennsylvania in the US sent me these pictures of a box he's just completed. On the face of it, it's just a standard veneered, rectangular box. But when you open the lid the whole box opens up, fantastic!

The design was inspired by the 19th C craftsman John Betjemann and sons ltd of London. Even the drawer opens by a spring loaded mechanism. All the mechanisms were made totally by hand and completely hidden within the structure of the box.

The mirror inside the lid is removable.

 The lining seems to have been very well executed as does the |French polish finish.

Here's the hand made rear hinge and detail of the edging.
Brice's next project is a four drawer chest with six automatically opening compartments as well as a 72 note musical movement. I will post the pictures when they come through although it may be some while off yet!

Categories: Hand Tools

Stuff in the Store (and in Store)

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Sat, 12/20/2014 - 8:32am

BHAE_detail2_500_IMG_7428We have sold out of “By Hand & Eye” but are working on getting that title back to the printer immediately. If you need the book, check out some of our retailers; many still have the book in stock. We should have the title back in stock – the fourth printing! – by early February.

In other “By Hand & Eye” news, authors Jim Tolpin and George Walker are working on a fascinating “workbook” supplement to “By Hand & Eye.” Written and illustrated like your grammar-school workbooks, it will take you through the exercises to open up your designer’s eye. The authors have been sharing the early drafts with me, and it’s going to be fun. Look for that in 2015.

We are down to our last box of Christian Becksvoort’s “With the Grain.” A third, revised edition is at the printer and should be in stock in early February. For the third printing, Becksvoort added 10 species of trees to the chapter on identifying the different North American commercial species, including the most important Western trees.

If you have the current edition, you can download the pages of the 10 species for free here:


The revised edition will be slightly more expensive because we had to add a signature to the book block.

And in sweatshirt news: We are sold out of 2XL and Large sizes. We are almost out of all the other sizes. We will restock in January with a new brand of USA-made sweatshirt – same color and same logo. These will be about $4 more – a significant increase.

John and I are juggling about a dozen new books right now. Here is what is on the front burner this minute. I don’t have any details on prices on these products, I’m afraid:

“Chairmaker’s Notebook” by Peter Galbert is being designed by Linda Watts. She has the first 10 chapters designed and the book will go to press in January for a February 2015 release.

“Virtuoso: The Tool Cabinet and Workbench of H.O. Studley” by Don Williams is written, edited and headed to design in early January. It will be released in March or April – right before Handworks.

“Roubo on Furniture” is translated, edited and awaiting design. Look for it this summer.

Lots more in the works, of course.

— Christopher Schwarz

Filed under: By Hand & Eye, Chairmaker's Notebook by Peter Galbert, Products We Sell, Virtuoso: The Toolbox of Henry O. Studley, With the Grain
Categories: Hand Tools

Darrell Peart

360 WoodWorking - Sat, 12/20/2014 - 4:01am

Peart_HeadDarrel Peart builds custom furniture, inspired by the style of Greene & Greene in Seattle, Washington. He also teaches several classes a year in his shop. Before becoming an independent furnituremaker, Darrell worked in the custom cabinet industry. He is the author of two books, “Greene & Greene: Design Elements for the Workshop” and “In the Greene & Greene Style: Projects and Details for the Woodworker” in addition to numerous magazine articles.

Click Here to Visit Darrell Peart’s Website where you see examples of his work, purchase his books and sign up for a class.



Today’s Free Article – Precision Woodworking by Darrell Peart

360 WoodWorking - Sat, 12/20/2014 - 4:00am

PeartTenons360 WoodWorking – Premier Issue

Furnituremaker Darrell Peart discusses the methods he uses to build beautiful custom furniture efficiently (and profitably) from a small shop. It isn’t all about tools and equipment, it’s also about attitudes and good habits.

This article is the third release of our first issue, and is available for free.

Click Here to Read Other Articles in the Premier Issue of 360 WoodWorking

Click Here to Read the Article Online or Download the PDF version.

This is the type of in depth content that will be available to our subscribers in 2015.


Sign up for our newsletter and come back tomorrow for our next free article.

2014 Top 10 Videos from the “Festool Connect Contest”

Matt's Basement Workshop - Sat, 12/20/2014 - 4:00am

Regardless of whether you’re a fan of Festool or not, all these videos are inspiring in their own way. As woodworkers and craftspeople we tend to see beauty in places and ways others don’t, so when we see individuals who are just as passionate about their craft as we are, it stokes the fires in our soul and drives us to create.

Sit down, take a moment and enjoy the beauty that unfolds in each video. Set aside any feelings you may have about them being a commercial for a tool brand and appreciate the artist sharing their craft, because in reality, sometimes it is about the tools enabling the individual to do more.

Help support the show – please visit our advertisers

Categories: Hand Tools


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