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Vintage stickers

Benchcrafted - 28 min 28 sec ago

This is our first run of a planned several set series of vintage themed stickers.  Some of you may recognize at least one of these from a set of cards we issued years ago as a promotion for one of the wood shows we exhibited at.  We had mostly forgotten about those neat cards were it not for seeing a set at our brother from another mother's house, Narayan Nayar.

So here they are, the first set of three.  These are reprints from 19th and early 20th century cigarette cards, once included with a pack of cigs to stiffen the pack and provide a little amusement.  We had considered including a stick of pink gum too but alas no one does those anymore.

These should be ready to ship on our website Thursday morning.  Price will be $6.00 for all three.  Get a set, stick em' on your tool chest or anywhere you want to add some character.  2"x4".
Categories: Hand Tools

How to Darken Oak Furniture with Ammonia Fuming

Wood and Shop - 1 hour 47 min ago
In this video I show a historical method for darkening white oak furniture with industrial strength Ammonia, inside a makeshift plastic fuming tent, and I do it on a pair of Shaker style quartersawn white oak end tables. My most recent video & article showed how these end tables fit together (here) and

Coping Saw Blades

360 WoodWorking - 5 hours 9 min ago
Coping Saw Blades

Is there a difference in cuts of copying saw blades with higher TPI? You bet. But the best reasons to make the switch may not be for the reason you’re thinking.

I’m beginning a new project that involves using my coping saw. Whenever I use this tool I immediately think back to my days building houses and installing the trim, especially baseboards. Each corner was coped for a better fit. (You cannot get away with simply butting to 45° cuts.)

Back then we worked primarily in pine.

Continue reading Coping Saw Blades at 360 WoodWorking.

Curriculum aliud*

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - 6 hours 23 min ago

_MG_0516[1]

Fixin’s for tofu and carrot pizza. (Yum?)

My father assigned his office assistant, Bambi, to be my teacher. One of our early lessons involved learning to copy maps, an essential life skill if there ever was one. She showed me how to copy an outline using a grid. “Just draw in some squiggles around the edges,” she instructed as I worked on a map of Florida’s east coast.

“But what about everyone who lives along those bays and beaches?” I asked, concerned that such a laissez-faire approach to cartography might result in the flooding of countless homes, drowning the pets who lived in them. (Never mind their human inhabitants, who were of less concern to me in those days.)

“Oh, don’t worry about that,” she said. “It’s just a map.”

It wasn’t long before we dispensed with this farce and I sought instruction from the young people who were living in assorted small structures they had erected around our tropical half-acre backyard. I learned to make whole wheat bread, tofu and carrot pizza, and home-churned ice milk, washed my clothes in a puddle, and took cold showers to fortify my character.  I dispensed with my hair brush and allowed my dirty-blond tresses to spin themselves into a head of dreadlocks that unsophisticated acquaintances of my parents dismissed as filthy matted hair.

IMG_2728[1]

Norman Stanley Hippietoe on the way to dreadlocks — emphatically not a sexualized image, but the opposite: a ten-year-old’s attempt to escape the confines of gendered expectations.

In a nod toward formal study, I read several entries in the World Book Encyclopedia each day and was so taken with the one for panpipes that I wrote to the editor and asked for plans that I might use to make a set. I signed my letter Norman Stanley Hippietoe, an androgynous persona I had invented to replace my birth name and gender. I was elated when a letter addressed to Mr. N. Hippietoe arrived in the mail, even though it carried the disappointing news that the publisher could offer no plans for constructing the instrument.–Excerpted from Making Things Work by Nancy R. Hiller

*Fancy Lass-speak for different curriculum. There’s nothing like learning to make tofu and carrot pizza and wash your clothes in a puddle to set a kid up for the discipline and structure offered by the Fancy Lads Academy.


Filed under: Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

the batting line up.......

Accidental Woodworker - 11 hours 36 min ago
The lead off was the glue up of the saw till box and I'll continue to work on that. Batting next is one tool rehab of which I have a lot waiting to be done. In the on deck circle is the chisel roll around cabinet. I decided to start work on it despite saying I was going to concentrate on doing tool rehabs. I am looking forward to having all my chisels in one place. And having that place readily accessible right by the workbench.

As it is now I have 5 sets of chisels stowed in boxes, scattered around the shop. My bench chisels are kept in a box on a shelf under the right end of my bench. These are the ones that I use 99.99% of the time. The others don't get much use because it is too much of a PITA to hunt them down, clear all the crappola burying them, to use them. The roll around will solve that problem.

out of the clamps
All of the half pins were cupped away before the glue up. They  are all tight and good looking now 24 hours later.

the opposite end
The half pins on this end were cupped too but not as bad. Or it could have been the other end. I know now that all the joints are closed up tight with no gaps. One end cap was cupped more than the other but that is a moot point now.

a wee bit proud
I will have to flush the pins and tails before I saw the lid off. There is a bit of proud here and there due to the pieces not being all the same thickness.

not twisted
I have clamped dovetailed boxes with cauls in the past and clamped twist into them. There isn't any twist on this side. I need this to be twist free for when I use the tablesaw to cut off the lid.

other side is twist free too
this side is square
opposite side is off a strong 32nd
I checked this side with the same diagonal from the other side. With that setting I was off on this diagonal and snug on the other. I changed the sticks to measure this side and it came out square.

done
This is going to be a gift card card box.

the tray
I spray 4 coats of shellac from a rattle can on the handle. I glued it with hide glue.

the red felt dresses up the box some
the next tool rehab
got my parts
much better than eBay
This 78 will be a user plane and I have no qualms with using a new part. Most of the prices on eBay for a fence rod started at around $20. I would have bought one of them but I was leery about buying a bent one.

new fence rod is dead nuts square
It was a bit stiff and hard to thread at first but after a couple of cycles of in/out, I could thread it all the way down and off with my fingers.

very snug fit
I saw some crud and rust(?) in the hole in the fence that slides up/down on the rod so that may be the cause of that.

new rod on the left   old on the right
A couple of notable differences between the two. The new one is slightly longer, the end opposite the threaded end has a larger chamfer, and the turn hole is smaller and closer to the end. The last difference is the threaded end. On the original there is a small space that is unthreaded and it is a smaller diameter than the rod. On the new one, it is threaded right to the rod. There is no small unthreaded portion. I would think that would make the replacement rod stronger than the original and less prone to bending.

definitely out of square ( original fence rod)
original fence rod
You can see that the threaded portion is bent. That small unthreaded portion is the Achilles heel and I think it is the reason why these are found bent so often.

road testing it
I never did a road test on this because the fence rod was bent. I put it back together with my iron instead of the one this came with. I got the fence on the rod but it was a struggle. I had to gently tap it on and off. This is also my before pic to compare to the ooh and ah rehab pics.

nice feel and easy to use
No particular problems making this quick, shallow rabbet. The iron wasn't as sharp as I thought it was. It will definitely need some love from the stones.

not canted and appears to be straight, end to end
depth stop
This is a robust stop. I applied only finger pressure to it and it held for making this rabbet. It will definitely need further testing to see how it holds up for doing a lot of rabbets.

quick clean and degreasing of the fence
There is a lot of crud stuck in the nooks and crannies. I got all of it removed with the help of the wire brush.

light sanding
Most of the japanning came off with a few strokes of the 150 grit stick. I kind of thought I would repaint this and now there is no doubt. I'll try stripper on this tomorrow and see what that does.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a hemidemisemiquaver is a musical 64th note?

Donate your excess tools to the Krenov Foundation

Heartwood: Woodworking by Rob Porcaro - Mon, 12/11/2017 - 6:16pm
Krenov Foundation
You have some tools hanging around your shop that you don’t use or need. I know you do. It’s inevitable. You’re a woodworker, so more times than you might care to admit, you’ve bought a tool that seemed so shiny and necessary at the time but now sits untouched. Maybe you’ve upgraded your chisels or […] 0
Categories: Hand Tools

The Last Soft Wax of the Year

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Mon, 12/11/2017 - 5:05pm

wax_IMG_9805

Katy has made a big batch of soft wax this week – 63 tins that are ready to ship immediately. Click here to order if you don’t need any more information than that.

Soft wax is a nice addition to the tool kit of the finisher or tool restorer. It can be used as a stand-alone finish on bare wood. It imparts just a little color and a little protection. Its advantage is it’s incredibly easy to apply. Because it is so high in solvent (Georgia turpentine), it is easy to rub onto a surface and does not need to be buffed like floor wax. You simply wipe the excess soft wax away for a nice matte finish.

For tools, it helps lubricate the sticky bits and prevents rust. A thin coat is all it takes.

It is not a good finish for high-traffic items (bathroom cabinets) or your hipster mustache. It is high in solvents that could irritate your baby-smooth Fancy Lad skin.

The wax is made in our basement entirely by a 16-year-old who never ceases to amaze me. She is intent on forging her own path through this world without relying on institutions to prop her up. (Sounds strangely familiar.)

You can order tins of her wax through her etsy store here.

— Christopher Schwarz


Filed under: Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Turn a Bureau into a Workbench

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Mon, 12/11/2017 - 1:41pm

Building furniture without a dedicated workshop or even a workbench has always been a challenge. While there are lots of ways to get around the problem, one of my favorite is what is called the “bureau-shop.” This is where you transform an old chest of drawers into a complete hand-tool shop for light work. The top of the bureau is used as the benchtop (more on that in a minute). […]

The post Turn a Bureau into a Workbench appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

Last Year’s Different Highlights

Paul Sellers - Mon, 12/11/2017 - 8:51am

Social media to some is a bit like Marmite, you either love it or you hate it. Thos who like Marmite usually have it on toast and turn to it every morning to start their day. It can be the same with Facebook and YouTube. I like it for one or two reasons but the […]

Read the full post Last Year’s Different Highlights on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Richard Jones: Why I Wrote This Book

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Mon, 12/11/2017 - 7:52am
KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA

Richard recently completed this massive oak refectory table for a client. Here it sits in the workshop, waiting for the client to make a decision on a wood finish.

Editor’s Note: This is the second in a series of blog posts by Richard Jones, who has written a detailed book about timber technology. The book is scheduled to be released in early 2018.

— Kara Gebhart Uhl

I didn’t set out to write a book on timber technology. Doing so was an accident of circumstances. In 2003, I closed my furniture business in Texas, moved home to the UK and started teaching furniture undergraduates at Rycotewood, which I mentioned here. I was given the task of introducing the students to the craft furniture maker’s primary material of wood in the Timber Technology module. I possessed a relatively good expertise in the subject but I’d never prepared and delivered learning materials on it. It was a challenging sink-or-swim moment for me – well, more of an ongoing fight against drowning throughout a 12-week term. But it got easier with practice and as the years passed.

In 2005, I started creating illustrated Timber Tech PowerPoint presentations as learning tools. From that, I converted the PowerPoints into articles to sell to woodworking magazines, a sideline of mine. At some stage in this article production I decided the topic was too involved to be covered adequately in a series of articles in several magazine issues. So, being a bit bloody minded, I decided to create a manuscript covering the key issues relevant and of interest to me as a woodworker. Further, I decided to write it in such a way that non-specialists could understand some of the more challenging elements, and my students were the model non-specialists. Of course, this meant I was writing speculatively, without having a publisher on board – but more on that in a later post.

Most books on timber technology are written by timber technologists for wood scientist colleagues, or students of the topic. They’re consequently a difficult read for the general reader, something probably true of most woodworkers, myself included. Wood science authors assume a certain background knowledge in their expected readership. And why not? They’re generally singing to the choir, or at least aspirant wood scientists. It doesn’t really help the non-scientific woodworker who wants a better understanding of their material as simply as possible. In creating my manuscript I took pains to try and make some difficult science accessible and useful to all woodworkers – carpenters, joiners, furniture makers and so on.

An oak tabletop, such as the one shown above, 1100 mm (~43-1/4″) wide with end clamps (aka breadboard ends) needs allowance for expansion and contraction on the main panel across the grain. A tongue and groove, incorporating three tenons worked in the main panel fit motices in the clamps. The central tenon is glued, and the two end tenons are free to move side to side in extended mortices, but held tight in the main panel with dowels passing through slots in the tenons.

– Richard Jones


Filed under: Timber Book by Richard Jones, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Straightening Up

The Barn on White Run - Mon, 12/11/2017 - 6:10am

 

 

 

 

With the shed roof line as straight as we could get it (there was still a tiny bit of dip but I was fearful of literally tearing the building apart if we went any farther based on the screeching coming from the building itself) we began the steady process of assembling in-place the laminated post-and-beam to replace the sagging wall.

We started by assembling the posts complete from three laminae of 2x8s with the center board being off set the width of the beam dimension and notched a couple of inches to serve as the tenons so that the beams could be assembled in-place fairly simply.  This also provided good purchase for the concrete we were using as the footer ex poste.

Since the rear corner being the highest, we shot for everything eventually becoming level with it.  So as the posts were constructed moving forward, we had to dig out holes in order to make all of them the same length.   Once the structure was complete I began the gentle lifting of the front corner with a post and hydraulic bottle jack.  Even I was astounded to recognize that the front corner needed almost 16-inches of raising to get everything level-ish.

With that I filled each footer hole with dry concrete mix, and old trick I learned from a deck-builder friend of mine, who said that you could use dry concrete in holes like this and it would absorb moisture from the ground and set in fairly short order.  I have used this method numerous times in the past and it turns out he was right.

The following week I dismantled the original wall and salvaged almost all of the material to use as the new 3/4 wall.  That new configuration, along with the new structure, has transformed the space from a sagging, foreboding cavern into a robust and airy storage space for the tools and machines necessary for maintaining the homestead.  For the moment I have left the rear section of the wall un-built as we are debating the desirability of a door opening there.

The t shirts have arrived

Journeyman's Journal - Mon, 12/11/2017 - 3:33am

I came home from work and was welcomed by a nice surprise. The t shirts have arrived and they turned out pretty good. The ink didn’t run and they feel comfortable to wear.

I know with any printed shirts you cannot put an iron over the label or they will simply melt off.

All in all I’m pretty happy with them. Except for the price of the black shirt. I don’t know why they charge extra for the black.

If anyone would like one, the price for the white is AU$29.90 plus shipping.

The black AU$49.90 plus shipping.

If I get 30 orders then I can order in bulk from another printing company and price it the same as the white.

I haven’t set the blog up for e commerce so you will need to shoot me an email with your colour choice, name and full address and I’ll send you an invoice via PayPal. Once it’s been paid I’ll place an order with the printing company and have it shipped out to you as soon as it arrives.


Categories: Hand Tools

survived another glue up.......

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 12/11/2017 - 12:54am
The plan today had two parts. The first was to finish my xmas shopping which I got done by 0830. Getting two gift cards completed my list for 2017. The second item on the hit parade was to glue up the saw till box. Happy to report all went well in Mudville but saying it's 100% will have to wait until tomorrow.

One thing I forgot to get was a piano hinge for the saw till.  I drove right by Home Depot not once, but 4 times, and I still didn't stop and get it. I remembered it after I got home and was feeling a bit smug with myself for being done with my xmas shopping.  I'll have to make a pit stop at Lowes sometime this week. That will be a 'dear diary...' entry for sure.


quiet work
I need a couple of supports for the tray and I'm using walnut. This is too wide and I'm ripping it to a 1/2" wide.

putting them on the short ends

The tray is light weight and stiff enough to span between the ends without sagging. Besides I doubt a chevy small block would fit in it anyways.

checking the fit of the cardboard bottom
I checked to see whether or not I could fit the cardboard in with the tray supports in place.  I could so I can glue the felt on this and install it after it has set up.

the tray fits
This definitely needs a handle to take it out and put it back in. It isn't a piston fit but there also isn't a lot of wiggle room neither.

had to drop the tray down because of the lid stops
fits
I have less then a 16th of clearance between the lid stops and the top of the tray. I did it to maximize the storage under the tray. The lid is seated on the top of the box all the way around.

supports just glued in
No clamps are needed because I got a snug fit. I don't think it is necessary to add screws or nails to the supports.

the knob nut
Nothing more annoying in life then a knob that won't stay tight. A couple of drops of locktite should help remedy that.

marking the ends of the groove
The depth of the groove is 5/16" and I marked the end of the groove to be 1/4".

first one done, 7 to go
sliding square set to the depth of the groove
I used this check my progress as I chopped the groove.

where it rises
This is how far back from the ends that the groove starts to rise above 5/16" deep. This is pine and it was easy to level the groove out to the end.

Yikes
This split on me when I tapped the chisel to deepen the wall on the outside of the groove. It was a clean break and I glued it back on and set it aside.

missing a piece from the end of the groove
The small missing piece I had and blowing that out happened before I did the big split dance step.

can you see it in the pile
I dropped the small piece on the deck and I couldn't find it. I will glue in a scrap after the box is glued up. I am painting this so putty and paint will hide all my sins.

how to best cut out the panels
I need a chunk of this that is roughly 1/2 of the sheet width but only 3/4 of the length. Is it best to crosscut the end first or make a long rip cut and then do the cross cut. I opted for the long rip cut only because it was the safer cut to make first.

width is too fat
I used a story stick for this and I didn't understand how I was off. I checked the stick and I added an extra 1/4" for some reason. That is how much this cut is off.

figuring out how to glue this up
The way I'll glue this up is to put the sides in the grooves first on the long sides. Then I'll put on the ends. There really isn't any other way to do it.

I'll have to wait a few hours for this to set up
the width is a bit too tight
I am just barely touching the pin with the square. I trimmed a 16th off for a bit of wiggle room.

sawed some clamping cauls
The two ends are slightly cupped and I couldn't remove it with clamps. I need these to help pull the pins and tails in tight.

bottom in
I'll have to replace this because the lower left corner had glue bleed through it.

length is too long
On the dry fit I couldn't fully seat the ends and this is why. I trimmed an strong 16th off and the dry fit closed up nicely then.

rehearsing the glue up
I'll glue the sides into the long grooves and then glue the ends on. I'll be using hide glue for this.

second dry fit looks good
Houston we have a green light for glue up.

it wasn't as stressful as it looks
The trickiest part was taping the cauls in place before I put the clamps on them. I did the long clamps first and then the short ones.

I added two more clamps after this
I couldn't check this for square and I'm relying on the plywood panels to square up the box. It really doesn't matter that much if this is a little bit out of square. I will let this cook here until tomorrow.

grinding my big chipped chisel
This is virgin territory for me. I have never ground anything before be it by hand or with an electron munching machine. The experience was an eye opener. It wasn't the onerous outing I thought it would be. One biggie that really surprised me was that I hogged off a lot of metal and the chisel never got too hot to touch. I didn't have any problems with drawing the temper out of the chisel which was a big concern for me going into this. I still dipped the chisel in water as I ground it.

it looks to be square
and it is
Seeing and maintaining square was ridiculously easy to do. I basically didn't even try to do it. I was mainly trying to remove metal. The square just happened as a by product.

blurry pic of a big flat at the end
I did the removal of the chip first without trying to maintain the bevel. Once I got the chip removed, I switched to establishing the bevel again. Another surprise was the time it took to do this. It took me 8 minutes to grind the flat down to the bottom of the chip. After that I tried to get my 25° bevel.

rounded bevel
The bevel proved to be a little more problematic to grind. When I checked the bevel it was between 30 and 35 degrees. I don't know how I got a rounded one as I was expecting a hollow one.

partial 25
I think I can finish this up on the 80 grit runway. This grinding adventure overall went pretty well. I didn't have a warm and fuzzy about grinding one handed but that turned out to be a non issue. The biggest hiccup I had was how to hold the chisel when grinding the bevel. Which direction to turn the grinder was another issue. I think I tried every combination possible of holding and turning without any one of them saying," pick me, pick me". One important aid I will be making is a tool rest for grinding a 25° bevel.

got a blister to remind of the today's grinding exercise

the blister maker


It's wood and it is fixed. As in it doesn't turn as you crank the grinder. I'll have to look at it and see if it does because it doesn't make sense for it not to.

a smaller chip to remove
After my bevel grinding of the big chisel, I will try to remove this one on the 80 grit runway first. If that doesn't work out I'll try grinding it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that there are 5 categories that stars are awarded for on the Hollywood Walk of Fame? (Motion Pictures, Television, Radio, Recording, Live Performance/Theater)

D. R. Barton Coopers Sun Plane - Rhykenology

Toolemera - Sun, 12/10/2017 - 5:59pm

An apple D. R. Barton Sun Plane, also known as a topping plane. Used to even up the ends of barrel staves.

Drbartonsunplane2
Drbartonsunplane2

Categories: Hand Tools

J. Foster Handled Smooth Plane of Lignum Vitae and Rosewood - Rhykenology

Toolemera - Sun, 12/10/2017 - 5:39pm

A lovely lignum vitae body, rosewood tote handled smooth plane by J. Foster, Boston. Pollack suggests that J. Foster is Jesse Foster, listed in directories as a Boston, MA, turner and cabinetmaker. 

J.FosterBostonLignumVitaeHandledSmooth1
J.FosterBostonLignumVitaeHandledSmooth1
J.FosterBostonLignumVitaeHandledSmooth1

Categories: Hand Tools

Live Oak Handled Smooth Plane - Rhykenology

Toolemera - Sun, 12/10/2017 - 5:13pm

Most likely made by a shipwright, this live oak handled smooth plane is made up of carefully selected pieces, joined to maximize grain. The handle is reinforced with a steel plate and the wedge is held in place with a steel rod. 

Liveoakhandledsmooth5
Liveoakhandledsmooth5
Liveoakhandledsmooth5
Liveoakhandledsmooth5
Liveoakhandledsmooth5

Categories: Hand Tools

It Takes Only 100 Workbenches

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Sun, 12/10/2017 - 3:27pm

loffelholz_flattening_IMG_9958

Some things in woodworking are hard-earned. Translation: I might not be so bright.

This week I performed some maintenance to my circa 1505 workbench designed by Martin Löffelholz. I’d built the bench last year using components that were soaking wet. This was not my preference, but sometimes we don’t have a choice when it comes to wood.

So what would be my preference? A wet top and bone-dry legs.

In my case, the tenons on the four wet legs had dried out faster than the wet benchtop. Because the ends of a stick of wood dry out before its middle, this was to be expected. As a result, three of the tenons became loose in their mortises, and I needed to re-glue and re-wedge them.

This is quick and easy work, maybe an hour. And because I use hide glue, there was no need to scrape off the dried PVA glue to remake the joints. (Yay for animal glue – for the 102nd billionth time.)

What’s the point here? Well, if you’ve ever made a workbench with through-tenons or through-dovetails then you know that the most difficult part of flattening the benchtop is dealing with the recalcitrant end grain. It can stop your handplane short, no matter how sharp it is or strong you think you are.

Recessed_tenon_IMG_9962

This week I got smart. Usually when you make a through-tenon, you make the tenon over-long and then saw or plane it flush to the surrounding wood. This is a good idea when making doors or small boxes. But when making workbenches, perhaps not.

This week I decided to cut the tenons 1/16” shy so they would end up recessed instead of proud when the joints were assembled. And, after assembly, I chiseled the wedges down flush with the tenon.

As a result, the benchtop was easy to flatten. My jack plane didn’t encounter any end grain until the last few strokes of flattening the benchtop.

Why haven’t I done this for the last 100 workbenches that I’ve built with my students, for customers or for me?

Lesson: Don’t be a Schwarz. Cut your workbench tenons short.

— Christopher Schwarz


Filed under: Workbenches
Categories: Hand Tools

A New Discovery!

Journeyman's Journal - Sun, 12/10/2017 - 1:00pm

A small tin of Prooftint Stain sprung a leak and coloured a portion of my shelf, awe how considerate. The little bugger over the years slowly ate its way through the bottom of the can. Not really sure how though as it’s not possible, but the evidence is in the pudding.

As I was cleaning and cursing away, you know the usual shop talk with yourself, I noticed this beautiful brass or bronze like patina on another tin the stain leaked on.

Elm-can

Once more poor photographic skills have let me down, I wish you could see what I see. It reminds of the old infill planes Bill Carter still makes by hand.  BTW, it was Elm that leaked. I did try another stain on another can to see if I could replicate it but no go.  I guess a particular metal type matter, but I’m unsure about this. What type of metal is the can made of? Probably tin, but I’m not a metallurgist to say for sure. Either way it works and looks great. You could probably do this to screws to give it an antique look.  Just so you know that methylated spirits will wash 90% of it off. But I think a little bit of lacquer will protect it for many years.


Categories: Hand Tools

#3 rehabbed.....

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 12/10/2017 - 2:10am
winter wonderland at1500
My wife and I were talking about the white stuff today. Neither one of us could recall the last time snow was on the ground before xmas. I remember a much different climate and time when I was a young boy compared to now. Back then there was usually snow before thanksgiving and it was unheard of not to have lots of snow on xmas day. Everything changes, including the weather.

Fiskar paper cutter
I got this from amazon earlier this year. I use it at work to trim and cut paper down to 8 1/2 x 11. It didn't have any problems cutting the cardboard inserts for the box and tray. It wasn't as easy as cutting paper but it did it. It didn't stall in the cut but it did take a bit of oomph to push the cutter through it. All the cuts were came out smooth with no ragged out edges.

working the #3
Since I had the 80 grit runway out, I decided to finish the #3 I got from Ken Hatch. It is in pretty good shape as is and shouldn't take long to get it to the ooh and ah stage.

slight hollow at the heel
 This hollow runs from the heel, almost down the center of the sole up to the toe. It doesn't show up that well in this pic but I can see it. The hollow at the heel is proving to be a PITA to remove. This is considerably smaller than what I first saw almost an hour ago. I want it gone and have the sole dead nuts flat from toe to heel.

an hour later
I finally got it. I didn't work on this for an hour straight but in 10 minutes bursts followed by 10 minutes (or more) of rest. When I got consistent scratches from toe to heel and from side to side, I went on to 120 grit.

the sides need work
 Both sides are going to need a bit of time to flatten out based on the scratch patterns I see in them.

metric plywood from Woodcraft
UPS said that this was on the truck for delivery on friday by 2000. 2000 came and went and I didn't have my plywood. This morning when I checked the UPS site, it said it would be delivered on monday by 2000.  When I left to get chinese for lunch I saw the package on the front steps. I'll be working on the saw till tomorrow.

120 grit batting next
After 80 grit, going up through the other grits doesn't take much time. The 80 grit is for removing metal and making things flat. It takes a while to get through it. The successive grits are mostly for scratch removal and it takes very little time on each one.

done up to 400 grit - it's shiny
I go up to 600 grit and stop there. I don't have a 600 grit belt and I do it wrapped around a block of wood.

degreasing and cleaning the interior
done
Cleaned and degreased.  The japanning looks to be 99% intact. What I am not sure of is whether or not this is the original japanning. Either way this is the best japanning I've seen on any plane that I have rehabbed to date.

sharpened by Ken Hatch
I will leave this as is. I would normally round the corners of the iron because this is a smoother. I do that so I won't leave tracks in the wood. Since I am passing this on to someone else I'll forgo that. Whoever gets this can do that if they desire to and they can touch up the iron if they want to also.

fettling the chipbreaker
I stone the inside bottom edge of the chipbreaker. This allows the chipbreaker to lay on the back of the iron with no gaps between them. This way no shavings can get underneath the chipbreaker. This doesn't have to be overly large and I strive to get it gap free first.

leading edge
I stone this up to the 1200 stone and then I strop it. I do this so the shavings will readily pass up and over this.

brass is shiny and the small parts are cleaned and oiled
600 grit
This is the last step to be done before I put the plane back together.

the last step in the rehab
I love this stuff. Not only does it shine up the planes, it protects them too. The shine does fade a bit, but not much, over time. But what I am really liking more is this will keep the planes clean looking for 3-4 months depending upon how much I use them.

this took a while
Getting even shavings from both sides kicked my butt this time. The hardest part was setting the iron/chipbreaker so the lateral adjust wasn't shoved all the way over to one side. I finally sorted that out and the reward was this.

it's ready to go to work
I thought I had a before pic of the #3 but I couldn't find one. Ken Hatch had given it to me and it had a broken lever cap. I had one in my spare parts and that is the only part I had to replace. Now it's ready to start another chapter in it's woodworking life with a new owner.


glamour shot #1
#2
#3
If I was keeping this plane I wouldn't do anything else to it (other then touch up the iron and round the corners) and would put it to work. I didn't type it but I will bet donut holes against dollars that it is a WWII vintage plane. I'm basing that on the one piece studs holding the tote and knob in and the thick walls of the plane.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Gene Autry is the only person to have 5 stars on the Hollywood Walk of Fame?

Manmeet "Lucky" Singh Guitar maker

The Indian DIY & Woodworker - Sun, 12/10/2017 - 1:50am
Manmeet "Lucky" Singh, Luthier

Shadipur is a crowded, largely working class, locality in west Delhi adjoining the industrial districts of Naraina and Kirti Nagar. Its narrow streets perpetually crowded with autos, two-wheelers and rickshaws are lined with endless shops, eateries and hawkers. Down its narrow alleys are houses that seem to touch each other and allow nothing wider than a scooter or motorbike to pass through.

Manmeet Singh, better known as "Lucky", leads me down one of these alleys where the noise of the street recedes and sunlight is cut off by the overhang of closely built brick and cement houses. He unlocks a steel door and ushers me into his 10 by 20 feet workshop.

The little windowless workshop is crammed with carefully bundled stacks of wood of various species. He collects different types of wood, and lots of it. For, Lucky is a luthier; at 23, he is perhaps one of the country's youngest and already a pro known for his finishing skills.


Measuring a pattern for a guitar body

He got into guitar making after his mother accidentally broke his guitar. "I repaired the guitar and liked the process", recalls Lucky. "I first began to repair guitars for local music shops and then started making them."

He has been making guitars for just 3 years and already his basic models of acoustic guitars sell for Rs 25,000. He makes one or two guitars a month and supplements his income by taking up spray finishing work and procuring exotic local varieties of wood for guitar makers and wood suppliers.


Ukulele with Cocobolo back

The first part of the process is to acquire great wood, he explains. "You cannot finish something that is not great in the first place", he explains in Hindi.

This is one reason why he spends a lot of his time - an average of three days a week- at the city timber markets. At Kirti Nagar timber market near where he lives, everyone seems to know Lucky. He dives into the shops to quickly inspect what is available. If something catches his eye, he is instantly on to it.

Bookmatched Babool

At one shop, we came across a couple of logs of a local timber called Jungle Jalebi. I later learnt this wood is Pithecellobium dulce also known as Monkeypod. It is dense and difficult to saw. Lucky thought one of the logs would produce some great burl.

He snapped a few photographs of the log and sent it to one his mates in Mumbai who exports exotic Indian woods for guitar makers around the world. The reply came back almost instantly and in the affirmative. The next thing I know Lucky was fishing out money to reserve the log for re-sawing later.

Lucky's little workshop stashed with wood

"Two or three of us share the wood I find", Lucky explained. "That way I can get what I want without having to block a lot of money for an entire log."

This way, he has managed to build up a small but impressive collection of a wide variety of wood, including Purpleheart, Cocobolo, Black Siris, Mango, Indian Mahogany, Sapele, Bubinga, Spanish Cedar and so on.

A beautiful local species called Siris

He gets the wood cut into quarter inch thick pieces and brings them back to his workshop where he uses a shop made drum sander to bring them down further to a final of 2 to 3 millimetres.

The pieces are cut into various shapes and joined together with thin splines. The sides are moulded in forms of various shapes and sizes made of MDF. The neck is made separately and later attached to the body.

Mango wood guitar finished with lacquer

Where he excels is in the finishing. He has an air compressor spray system at home and does the finishing there in a veranda as his workshop is too tiny and enclosed for spraying. He also has a shop made buffing machine which uses various types of cloth wheels.

"The glow in the finish comes from depth", he says. "The only way you can know it has worked is from seeing the final product. If there isn't enough depth in the finish, then it isn't done."


An accoustic guitar made of Indian Mahogany by Lucky

The best thing I liked about Lucky was his insatiable curiosity about different kinds of wood, finishes and work methods. He keeps visiting the larger paint dealers to know about the latest kinds of finishes, paints, fillers and so on. He seems to be constantly absorbing information.

A self-taught guitar maker, Lucky Singh seems to be vastly enjoying the learning curve he is on. His insatiable curiosity about everything involving his art will ensure that he grows to be a great craftsman someday soon.

Indranil Banerjie
10 December 2017
Categories: Hand Tools

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