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Hand Tools


A Woodworker's Musings - 2 hours 21 min ago

I met an old friend on the street the other day, a friend I hadn’t seen for a year or so.  He walked up to me, smiled broadly and said, “Good Lord, I was sure you had died.  You haven’t posted anything since February!”…  What an “eye opener!”

Truth be told, the past few months have been full of travel, visits from family and, honestly, I just haven’t had anything to say that I thought was worth saying.  That’s not to say that there hasn’t been anything going on in the workshop.  Although I have to admit that my level of productivity has been seriously diminished. But, maybe now is a good time to “get back in the game.”

Lester (my partner in the crime of woodworking) and I have managed to finish a couple of projects during this “black-out period.”   We completed a small tavern table (based on one in the Metropolitan Museum of Art) that Les had started a number of years ago.  While dry fit, it served to provide a small amount of temporary storage for a number of years.    He opted for a oval top made from a single piece of curly maple that he’s had in storage since the last Dempsey fight.  He decided that heavy distressing was just the ticket.  So, Les, our friend Scott Midegeley and I attacked the thing with lanyards full of keys, sticks, rods, stones.  It was scorched earth!

After the beating, the top was dyed with amber water based dye, then glazed with “black oil”, a combination of asphaltum, turpentine and BLO.  The top was then finished with several coats of Waterlox.  The cherry base was stained, coated with Waterlox then painted with a satin black alkyd enamel.  Then the paint was “wet wiped” to create a heavily distressed look in the areas that would have been subjected to the most wear.  Imagine the Founding Fathers sitting around one of these little beauties, drinking warm ale and trying to determine the best way to run a Republic.

The turned legs were terminated with simple Spanish feet of the “fluted” variety.  Ends of the “ogeed” aprons were finished up with a decorative cockbead.

I became so enthused that I ran right home and started my own Tavern Table.  There are a few differences, but the design is essentially the same.  The carriage is of walnut, the top is elliptical, the finish is the same with less distressing and I opted for a little longer, more feminine Spanish Feet (probably a subliminal influence of having just watched a Penelope Cruz movie).  The aprons are relieved to create a lighter look and the top has a simple torus edge and I nixed the cockbead (for no good reason other than the fact that I wanted to get the thing finished).

Here’s a look at the table through part of the construction process:

And, if you don’t believe in the possibility of resurrection, just stand near the parking lot gate at “quitting time.”    “Gramps”




Categories: Hand Tools

Bedstead panels

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - 7 hours 3 sec ago

The bedstead’s headboard is moving along. Once I had the first free-hand panel carved, it was easy to carve the 2nd one. After marking out the margins and a vertical centerline, I used a compass to take a few markers – here noting where the S-scrolls at the bottom corner hit the vertical margins.

Then I chalked in a rough outline for that shape. This panel, like many from this grouping (and all 4 in this headboard) have a stylized urn at the bottom center of the panel. That shape I marked out with a square & awl to locate its top & bottom, and marked its width from the vertical centerline. The S-scrolls then fit between the urn and the bottom corner/margin.

My camera-boy (Daniel, 11 yrs old) came by & used the Ipad to shoot some Instragram stuff…here’s some leftovers. Carving this bottom corner S-scroll, in two snippets. (home-video caliber – no edits, shaky, etc – but worth a look.)




there are related S-scrolls across the top section of the panel. These reach from the corners to the vertical centerline. These top and bottom sections are the first things I block in with the V-tool.


then comes the stuff between. I sketch the vein in the larger leaf, it reaches from the centerline to the margin.



Then I carry on, doing first one side, then the other.

The whole thing is about filling in the spaces, and in this case, blending one shape to lay against another.

Here’s the V-tool outline almost all done.

Next I take a #5 gouge, in this case about 1″ wide or slightly less, and chop out between the V-tool lines, to begin removing the background.


Some beveling, some shaping. With a narrow #5.

People ask about the background punch. Mild steel, filed to leave these pyramidal points.

accents with a few #7 gouges.

And a narrow chisel. Bevel towards the waste when chopping like this.

Then pare down to the chopped mark.

Trim to length. 

Bevel the back, first with a hatchet.

Then 2 planes. Feather down to nothing.

Here’s the headboard thus far. There will be plain panels below this, and a carved crest rail above. And of course, two vertical posts.





Brese Plane - 8 hours 42 min ago

For a bit over a week 4 of our grandchildren and their moms have been visiting. It's been a busy time that has passed very quickly. Too quickly. Soon they will be returning to Brooklyn and London and the house will be quiet again.

We made bird houses with the kids. It was great fun and I highly suggest this project for kids. The ages range from 3 to 9 and it was fun for all.

Some of the bird houses just look happy,

and more smiley faces

The crafters and artist,

And for the grand Finale,

Yes the house will soon be quiet again..........too quiet.


Categories: Hand Tools

Two- and Three-Panelled Doors

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - 10 hours 21 min ago

Fig. 60 – Two-Panelled Door

This is an excerpt from “Doormaking and Window-Making” by Anonymous. This book was discovered for us by joiner Richard Arnold. 

The door shown in Fig. 60 is very common as a front door in some parts of the country, although it has not much to recommend it, the long panels being very weak, and also the stiles, owing to there being no middle rail to strengthen them.

The making is very simple, being the same as an ordinary panel door, minus the middle rail; hence no detailed instructions on setting out are required here. They only mystifying point is the circular head panels, but those are only formed by the bolection moulding, the top rail being framed in square, as in Fig. 61, and the circular corner pieces glued and bradded in on the outside of the door only.


Fig. 61 – Showing Corner-Pieces in Panels

The circular moulding is formed in a lathe, as Fig. 62, and cut through to form two heads. It should be sawn through across the grain, as shown in the drawing, so that the end grain on the straight moulding will butt against the end grain on the circular moulding. In doing this, the shrinkage will be the same on each piece, and the intersection will not be affected. Of course, it must be understood that, if a good job is to be made, the turning must be accurately done, or the two will not intersect, and no amount of cleaning off will put matters right.


Fig. 62 – Circular Moulding for Tops of Panels

In making doors which have to be bolection moulded, some care is needed in gauging for the mortises, to ensure the moulding is bedding properly. If the moulding is rebated to a depth of half an inch, the gauge should be set to nine-sixteenths; the moulding will then bed tightly on the framing without any trouble. If gauged on too far, when the moulding is nailed in there is a risk of splitting at the outside edge; and if not gauged enough, the moulding will not fit closely to the framing. The medium should be aimed at, as in Fig. 63, where the moulding beds closely at A and B, and is slightly away from the panel at C.


Fig. 63 – Method of Fixing Bolection Moulding

In fitting bolection moulding, the mites should be shot as it is difficult to obtain a clean joint direct from the saw; the correct length of each piece should be taken, and the moulding cut to the marks; there will be no difficulty in making them fit accurately. The rebates are usually made slightly edge-shaped, as shown in Fig. 63, which forces the mitres up tightly as the moulding are driven in. In nailing each piece in, the nails should be driven as at D (Fig. 63); this will draw the points A and B down tightly, and at the same time allow the panels to shrink, without the danger of splitting them. This method of fixing does not, however, find favor in some parts, the favorite method being to screw the moulding from the inside of the panels, as at E. This certainly holds them firmly to the panels; but unless the latter are very dry, they are apt to split, owing to the outside edges being held by the screws. Taken on the whole, the writer prefers the former method of fixing and it must be understood that both methods should on no account be used together.


Fig. 64 – Bolection Moulded Three-Panel Door (with Section)

In Fig. 64 we have a door that will be a familiar object to some readers, but a total stranger to others: it is a bolection-moulded three-panel door, the third panel being formed by leaving out the bottom munition, and throwing the space below the middle rail into one panel. This, however, is relieved by planting on a raised panel of 3/4 in. wood, bevelled off from the centre to all four sides to a thickness of 3/8 and screwed to the panel proper from the inside. A vertical section of such a door is also shown, and an enlarged section of the bottom part appears in Fig. 65. In some cases a narrow raised panel in fixed to the upper panels in the same way as the lower, but this is not commonly done.


Fig. 65 – Enlarged Detail of Fig. 64

The above makes a very substantial good-looking door when finished, far better than that shown in Fig. 60; but to ensure lasting properties the bottom panels should be very dry, and the grain should cross in the two—that is, the panel proper should run longways, and the raised panel upright, or vice-versa.

Meghan Bates



Filed under: Doormaking & Window-Making
Categories: Hand Tools

Issue Three T.O.C. - Vic Tesolin Reviews Hoadley's "Identifying Woods in American Antiques"

The Mortise & Tenon Magazine Blog - 16 hours 49 min ago

Upcoming in Issue Three…  Book Review by Vic Tesolin: “A Field Guide to Identifying Woods in American Antiques & Collectibles” by R. Bruce Hoadley

I’m a voracious reader of both fiction and non-fiction and as you can imagine, most of my non-fiction reading is about woodworking. Currently you’ll find me in the Japanese hand plane rabbit hole and I’m not sure if I can find my way back out.

Joshua asked me if I could write a review of R. Bruce Hoadley’s latest book A Field Guide to Identifying Woods in American Antiques and Collectibles when he and I were at the Fine Woodworking Live event this year. Writing this review was an absolute pleasure for me because I have read almost everything Hoadley has printed. Although, to be fair, I wasn’t sure that I was going to pick this one up…but I’m glad I did.


Many woodworkers don’t understand how wood works. This is an odd thing because, for me, understanding the medium I work with helps me to understand how to work with it. Things like grain direction, porosity and hardness help my come up with a plan of attack for my tools. Take hand planing as an example. White pine practically glistens when you use a low cutting angle, however, try that in hard maple and see what happens. The more you know about wood, the better woodworker you will become.


This book is aimed at the antique market including conservators, collectors and traders, so what did I think of it as a maker? You’ll have to read the full review to see exactly what I thought.


- Vic Tesolin, The Minimalist Woodworker


Stay tuned for tomorrow’s announcement of the next article upcoming in M&T Issue Three...


Categories: Hand Tools

The Best Woods for Upholstery – 360w360 E.241

360 WoodWorking - 17 hours 36 min ago
The Best Woods for Upholstery – 360w360 E.241

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking, Mike Mascelli is back to talk more on upholstery. Along with the longevity of good-quality furniture and upholstery work, Mike talks about the best woods to use for frames that are to be upholstered – it’s all about lumber that allows and holds tacks and staples. But you’re not giving up any structural integrity.

Join 360 Woodworking every Thursday for a lively discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more).

Continue reading The Best Woods for Upholstery – 360w360 E.241 at 360 WoodWorking.

Which Bench Plane?

Paul Sellers - 17 hours 47 min ago

I use a variety of hand planes, bench planes actually, in the day to day of making, writing and filming because on the one hand I want to use what people can get hold of and afford at a reasonable price and I tend feel a little nauseous when snobbism displaces proven technologies that worked …

Read the full post Which Bench Plane? on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

carcass fitted.......

Accidental Woodworker - 20 hours 24 min ago
I'm moving right along with the finishing cabinet. I got the carcass dry fitted and I'm rethinking the interior. I'm not liking the off center divider that much anymore. I do want to maximize my storage because I am an expert at stuffing 10 lbs of crap into a 5 lb test brown paper bag. Ask any submarine sailor to help rearrange things and you'll be amazed at the space we can save. Of course this all subject to change on the fly too.

fitting my second tongue
This edge is square across the face and I checked it from both edges.

slightly out of square
 It goes out of square down from the face over to the right at the bottom. It isn't much, but it isn't 90°.

some crud in the 90 to clean out
flat and straight
I checked this to make sure I was flat. The first one I fitted had a hump in it. I ran a few strokes down the length with a tenon plane before I checked it for flat.

square to the face
I'll square the tongue up with the hand router.

marked and sawed it on the pencil line
Sawing this off will give me less to lean up with the router. I trimmed a bit and checked the fit and I kept at it that way until I had a snug fit.

the last one to be fitted
This is the one I had to saw a bit deeper on this end as I was splitting out the tongue. I didn't get as clean of a split as I did on the other 3. I had to clean this up so I could mark for the length of the the tongue. I got most of it cleaned out when I ran the tenon plane down the cheek.

checking for square
The first tongue I fitted is the snuggest fitting one I did. Of the remaining 3, one is a little loose, and the other two are snug. All four will hold except for the one loose one. There gravity eventually wins but it is self supporting for a second or two.

off by a least a quarter of inch this way
cocked the clamps on one end
This was the second way I tried this. My first time in the opposite direction just made it worse.

it fits both ways so I'm square
This is something I am not good at looking at and figuring out which way to move the clamps. It is usually a bit of trial and error for me until I get it.

thinking of cutting this brush handle down
 I lost more interior width than I thought I had.

tighter squeeze for the spray cans side by side
There is not a lot of room to get my fat fingers in here to grab a can. This is where I started to rethink the off center divider.

this yields a bit more room
If I cut the other two brushes down to the length of this one, this is doable. The monkey wrench in the gears comes from the spray cans being twice the height of the quart cans of finish.

this was thought
How about I put the spray cans horizontal like I was storing wine bottles? Maybe I could even put a 'wine rack' in this space and skip the divider.

I am aware of this and I think about it as I plane and approach an end. For some reason it doesn't always register in the brain bucket. I'll tape this to the side so I don't lose it and I can glue it back on later.

this is a good sized cabinet for the shop and my finishing supplies
I think the center divider is history. Instead of the center divider I am going to install a horizontal shelf/drawer space at the bottom. I'll be able to put in two drawers and one will be large enough to hold my shellac brushes without cutting them down.

this is where it is going
I won't clear out this spot until the cabinet is done. The shelf is screwed to a board that is screwed to the foundation. I'll reuse that and put a french cleat on it. The other important point is the top of the cabinet is wider and longer than this shelf. The radio and everything else on the shelf will live on the cabinet top.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What does the latin phrase ex post mean?
answer -  from behind, after the fact

I don’t have much background information on this video,...

Giant Cypress - 20 hours 38 min ago

I don’t have much background information on this video, but it appears to be a German film showing how a chipbreaker works while planing a piece of wood in a manner similar to the Kawai-Kato chipbreaker video. Many of the factors demonstrated are still the same: the need to have the chipbreaker close to the edge of the blade, the effect of the angle of the leading edge of the chipbreaker, and what happens if the chipbreaker is set too close. You can also see the effect of the mouth, and my favorite bit, what happens when the chipbreaker isn’t set well on the blade.

Moulding Plane No.10 Round complete!

Journeyman's Journal - Wed, 07/19/2017 - 10:17pm

I shaped the iron, heat treated, sharpened it to a razor finish and did it within two hours. Considering how long it took me the first time, experience and speed has finally kicked in.

I’m very pleased with the outcome, she’s planing and ejecting shavings like a dream.   The mouth opening is 1/32″ which I’ve returned back to my original idea and not intentionally but just by accident. Still it allowed thick enough shavings to go through without clogging. All that’s left to do now is to put a couple of coats of finish and use that as the mother plane for the hollow.

I found a neat little trick to shaping the iron, initially I shaped the iron on a grinder keeping it at 90° but the bevel I did with a file, just like our ancestors did and with all their plane irons to re establish their bevel .  If I used the grinder to establish a 25° bevel and refine the shape I would’ve taken too much from one side or the other.  With a file I took small amounts resulting in a more controlled shaping process.  The grinder hogs off a lot of material throwing you off everytime until you get it right, but that is time consuming.  The file seems like a slower process but it actually took me 20 -30 mins probably less to do it, that’s a saving of 2 hours work.

I could of given up considering how long I’ve been at it but I didn’t.  Hard work, persistence, obsession is the key to success, nothing comes easy.


Categories: Hand Tools

Now Available: ‘Roubo Workbench: By Hand & Power’

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Wed, 07/19/2017 - 8:04pm


You can now purchase our latest video “Roubo Workbench: By Hand & Power” for $35 through our online store. The 4:19-long video can be streamed or downloaded and played on nearly any device – we offer the video without any DRM or copy protection.

The video is an in-depth look at how to build a massive French workbench using giant slabs of wood, but without enormous machinery. Will Myers and I walk you through all the construction steps and show a variety of ways to perform every operation, from a pure hand-tool method to one that uses the latest hand-held power tools.

Along the way, Will and I debate the fine points of construction – we don’t always agree – and discuss the pros and cons of everything from wide benchtops to wet timbers to tail vises.

Oh, and I might add that the video is beautiful. Shot using a three-camera setup at F+W Media and directed by our own John Hoffman, this presentation is the best we could do without hiring Orson Wells.

In addition to the 4:19-long video, we also include a three-page pdf containing a construction drawing of the bench, a cutting list and a list of the suppliers mentioned in the video. You’ll also receive a sheet of timecodes that will allow you to skip easily to individual chapters.

This video is the start of a series of instructional videos from Lost Art Press and directed by John. Next up: Peter Galbert on turning.

— Christopher Schwarz

Filed under: Workbenches
Categories: Hand Tools

Photobucket Ruined my Blog

MVFlaim Furnituremaker - Wed, 07/19/2017 - 5:10pm

For several years, I’ve been storing my photos on Photobucket.com. I never paid for it so I was willing to deal with the endless pop up ads every time I wanted to upload some of my photos for my blog. All was well until a few days ago when I noticed that the photos in my blog postings were being blocked. Apparently, Photobucket changed their user agreement and they will no longer support third-party hosting of any of the photos in their site. The only way to get the photos back is to pay a monthly subscription fee. Fat chance of that.

I was using Flickr several years before I switched to Photobucket because I ran out of free space. So, the very early blog posts should be fine for now until Flickr does the same thing. I liked Photobucket because even though I had 300 pictures stored on their site, I was only using 3% of free space on my account. Now I’m in a pickle. I assume I could download all my Photobucket photos onto a hard drive and import them back into blog posts, but that is a lot of work.

I noticed a few months ago that WordPress wouldn’t allow me to cut and paste directly from Photobucket onto my blog page. I had to start loading the image onto WordPress first. Now I know why, which is why my most recent posts are fine. The last working post is from four months ago when I smashed my finger. Every post after that until three years ago is blocked.

Thank God I don’t do this for a living! What a nightmare this must be for professional bloggers who blog two or three times a day. I read on Reddit about people who are in dire straits because of this.

For now, I’m going to start using Imgur.com for storing my photos. Maybe I’ll even buy an external hard drive and store my photos on that so this never happens again.

A Trio of Lath-Back Windsor Chairs – Part Two

Pegs and 'Tails - Wed, 07/19/2017 - 4:49pm
I think one reader was a little upset with me for attaching the legs before bottoming the seats of the two forest chairs, so these lath-back Windsors were done vice versa. Natheless, the weather impelled me to bore all the … Continue reading
Categories: Hand Tools

Ridgid’s Brushless, Cordless Trim Router

360 WoodWorking - Wed, 07/19/2017 - 12:33pm
Ridgid’s Brushless, Cordless Trim Router

I’ve been busy with 360Woodworking. With my head down giving it what for, I didn’t see that Ridgid came out with a trim router powered by a battery until one of our members – thanks, Eric – brought it to my attention. My reaction was, “You Betcha.” I enjoy using the corded Ridgid trim router and to not have to pull electric cords around the shop sounded good, so I set about getting my hands on the new R86044B.

Continue reading Ridgid’s Brushless, Cordless Trim Router at 360 WoodWorking.

Where Have All The Old Tools Gone...

The Part-Time Woodworker - Wed, 07/19/2017 - 8:43am
Where have all the old tools gone?
Long time passing
Where have all the old tools gone?
Long time ago
Where have all the old tools gone?
Young men picked them every one
When will they ever learn?
When will they ever learn?

Ok, lets face the new reality...eBay really sucks for vintage tools.

The question everyone is asking...
...where did all the sellers go?


Categories: Hand Tools

Issue Three T.O.C. - Making A Stand: Form And Function For $1.50

The Mortise & Tenon Magazine Blog - Wed, 07/19/2017 - 7:08am


Upcoming in Issue Three: “Making a Stand: Form and Function for $1.50” by Michael Updegraff

Most woodworkers today admire the form of the period candlestand. From the graceful, sinuous legs to the seemingly intricate sliding dovetails that secure them, from the details of the turned standard to the beautiful grain exhibited in a tilting top, these pieces sometimes seem to be more sculpture than household mainstay. But this type was possibly the most common piece of furniture around in the 18th or 19th century, and was often present in every room of the house. Consequently, makers of the day built these stands not only in great quantity, but fast. After all, a single candlestand typically fetched from $.50 to $1.50, less than a day’s pay at the turn of the 19th century. Speed and efficiency were necessary to turn a profit.

I begin by felling a tree with an axe, and work through the riving, resawing, and ripping necessary to generate the stock required. The top is glued up from a rough-sawn piece of cherry that needed a good home. The standard (or pillar, or column, depending on whom you ask) is laid out from photographs of a historical piece and turned on a spring-pole lathe.

The legs, also patterned off of a period example, are secured to the standard with sliding dovetails and by a “spider” fashioned from a piece of scrap metal. We’ll be keeping an eye on the clock throughout this build, and looking at various ways to improve efficiency in the process. After all, the kids are hungry, the barn needs a new roof, and $1.50 only goes so far.

~Mike Updegraff

Stay tuned for tomorrow’s announcement of the next article upcoming in M&T Issue Three...


Categories: Hand Tools

Veneer Repair Workshop at CVSW

The Barn on White Run - Wed, 07/19/2017 - 6:33am

Following the recent Groopshop gathering at the Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking I stuck around to teach a couple of one-day workshops.  The first was “Veneer Repair” wherein I presented a group of techniques I’ve learned or created over the years.  Having looked at an awful lot of historic furniture in my career, I think it is safe to say that the challenge of dealing with veneer damage and loss has been beyond the skill-set of a great many folks in the business.  This is a topic of great interest to me, and since I’ve taught it many, many times, including last week, there seems to be interest in it.  I am currently scripting out a video to shoot here in the coming winter with a young videographer living nearby.

My first order of business, a month before the class, was to make a set of near-identical “problem” boards for the students to work on.  These were fairly good representations of the types of problems they will encounter.

For most losses a technique I created involves tracing  precisely the damaged area onto a small piece of mylar or acetate that is taped to the adjacent background.  Then I select and locate a piece of veneer that matches the surrounding background as best as possible.  (I apologize for many of these pictures, I discovered ex poste that the camera was having a bad day, or perhaps it was the camera operator…)

The outline is transferred to the veneer via a piece of carbon paper (these are obviously not the same problem piece, but I think you get the idea)

The marked veneer is then mounted on a backing board with stick glue, and cut out with a jeweler’s saw.

If all goes well you get a perfect fit from the git go.

But sometimes the back side of the joint edge needs to be feathered with a small gouge to make it fit perfectly.

Once you have the grain and fit correct, you slather on some glue, overlay with a piece of cling wrap or mylar, and clamp with a plexi caul and the veneer repair is pretty much done.  There is finish work yet to come, but that is another subject for another time.

A number of other techniques were taught, but I was so busy teaching that I forgot to take pictures of them.  You’ll have to wait for the video, I guess.

almost had a melt down......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 07/19/2017 - 2:30am
It sucks to get old and lose you short term memory. I changed my password at work and I was going to change it at home too, but I couldn't log in. I kept getting an incorrect password, try again. After over an hour of trying I finally got it. I was entering in my password and I was adding an extra character when I tried to log in. I finally got signed in when I wrote the password down a piece of paper, It was then that I realized I had been using a same double character because that is what I had done with my work password.

My blood pressure remained normal and I didn't change into a raging nut job which my wife was very proud of. All this did really was put me behind the eight ball with getting tomorrow's blog post ready. One thing I did do before I started writing this was to make a password reset recovery USB. I thought I had done that but I don't remember it and if I did, I don't know where I stuck the USB stick.

my new camera
I read the manual and all that did for was let me know how much I don't know about this camera. I'll be sticking with the Point and Shoot mode for now. I have started looking around for a beginners photography class because I would like to learn how to use some of the features of this expensive camera.

my very first pic with the new camera
This is my male cat Mr Darcy in attack mode. There are some birds on the planter outside on the other side of the window.

I forgot to snap this pic last night
I made these cabinets (6 of them) with the rabbet tongue joint. It's been over twenty years and they have been through 3 moves, 4 installs, and they are still together. I think I made these on the tablesaw.

set up board to get the outside wall of the groove
knifed the in and outside of the groove to prevent chipout
worked good in this pine
knifed my two groove lines
I am going to the max with practicing and trying new things for me on this cabinet build.  I am going to make this rabbeted tongue joint by hand. I am going to saw the cheek to depth and then I'll split out the tongue. Next will be the trimming and the fitting. Then a door and panel made all by hand too. The very last thing will be the oohs and aahs.

this is prone to chipout and blowouts
This is the exit for the groove and the plane iron could wreck havoc here. I sawed the walls and chiseled a ramp to alleviate that happening.

first groove to depth
Even with the help I gave on this end I still got a lot of blowout. This wood is very dry and brittle and I was afraid this would happen. It is only a short piece of blowout and I'll put a dutchman in here once the cabinet is glued up.

groove number 2
Got more blowout on the exit again. This will have to be dutched because it is kitty corner from the first one and I can only hide one of these at the back. Also got some chipping along the outside groove.

3rd groove
Almost perfect. Almost no chipout along the length and no blowouts on the exit. I knifed the wall after every pass and it helped a lot.

the last one, #4
No blowout on the exit and I did knife this as I ran the plow but got a whole lot of chipout on the lead in end. I had knifed this but the iron caught something and boom, I had this mess. I think I tilted the plane a bit outboard and the iron caught the top edge and did the damage.

The action of this Lee Valley plow plane is very sweet. It was a joy to use on this and a huge step up over the Record 405 (English version of the Stanley 45). Less bulk and weight and a lot more nimble and easier to push. Well worth putting on your xmas list to buy in august.

ran two gauge lines
The line on the left is from using the wrong marking gauge (I had two of the same set for different widths). But it works in my favor as I need to go to the line on the right. So I really can't screw this up by chopping on the wrong line.

tongue laid out
The tongue is nothing more than a rabbet. I chiseled a knife wall and sawed down to the gauge lines on the sides.

splitting out the rabbet
I wasn't a fan of this but after whacking out these four, I am in the liking it camp. I am quite happy with how my progress with hand tool work is paying off. I would not have tried to do this a year ago. Now, even though this essentially is my first time trying it, I feel like it is old hat. It is just a long tenon. I started the chopping at the 1/2 point to see which way it was going to split . I got lucky as it split straight down.

got one split out
My tongue is strong because I marked it that way. I sawed on my knife line for the cheek and I will have to square that up and thin the tongue down a bit.

lucky again with #2
I split it at the 1/2 mark and I will split the distance to the knife line one more time before going right into the gauge line.

this end isn't splitting off cleanly
I sawed a bit more on this end so my splits would come off cleanly.

too fat but I knew that
What I didn't know was that I would have a mind fart and layout for the tongue wrong. The tongue is not 3/4" long, it is only a 1/4". Not only did I layout the length wrong, I also laid it out on the wrong side of the top and bottom.

this should have been on the side of the tongue
This will work in my favor because I will have to layout for the center divider again. Because of my tongue layout SNAFU I lost 3/4 inch in the width of the ID on the cabinet. These layout marks will be on the top and bottom outsides and covered with paint.

squared up the cheek
cleaning up and squaring the tongue with the router plane
one corner caught, the rest is too fat
fits but the tongue needs some trimming
making a tongue marker
I stuck a piece of scrap in the groove and planed it flush.

marked and ready to saw off
I was going to quit here as it was almost 1700 but I was so close to fitting this I stayed and finished this first one.

inside joint line
All four of the inside lines of the groove came out chipout free. This is what will be seen when the cabinet is opened . The blowouts and chipouts on the other side of the groove line will be on the outside. Dutchmen, putty, and paint will hide those sins.

the oops side
I sawed off the knife line at this end and that is what that gap is from. This was relatively easy to do. On a scale of 1(easy) to 10 (hard), I would rate this a 4 tops. A year ago I would have rated this a 4,557. I mean how could I have done the sawing and planing to knife lines back then without going beyond them? I don't think my skill set was sufficient then to attempt this. And splitting out 4 tongues each almost 12" long and have them come out straight and square?  This first joint trimming and fitting was very satisfying.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many official perfect games have been throw in Major League Baseball?
answer - out of over 210,000 games only 23

The Rabbit Hutch – Part 6

The Bench Blog - Wed, 07/19/2017 - 1:00am

The rabbit hutch project is finally looking like a rabbit hutch.  I got a lot done in the last post, but now I need to make the two poop drawers that will sit beneath the wire mesh floors.

You can see the earlier posts in this series here:

In the last post, I painted the hutch, installed the floor frames, fitted and installed the back panels, installed the doors, and made a piece to fill the gap at the top of the front.  Wow, that’s a lot for one post.  Time to make the poop drawers.  Again, I’m skipping photos of me milling wood.

Oak, milled to make the bottom drawer.

Oak, milled to make the bottom drawer.

Laying out tails for the oak drawer.

Laying out tails for the oak drawer.

Cutting the tails.

Cutting the tails.

Chopping out the waste.

Chopping out the waste.

Time to cut the pins.

Time to cut the pins.

Glue up time.

Glue up time.

I found that there was a slight inward bow in the long sides of the draw frame.  I cut a piece of scrap to temporarily keep these pushed out straight while I nailed the bottom on.

The drawer frame ready for the bottom to be nailed on.

The drawer frame ready for the bottom to be nailed on.

For the bottom I decided to use a ¼ plywood that is faced one side with paper.  I think that it is designed to be used as an underlayment for tile.  To attach the bottom, I used Titebond III and nails.

Ring shank nails to attach the bottom.

Ring shank nails to attach the bottom.

Rounding over the edges.

Rounding over the edges.

Flush trimming the drawer bottom.

Flush trimming the drawer bottom.

Flush trimmed, rounded over, and sanded.

Flush trimmed, rounded over, and sanded.

With the bottom drawer made, I gave the outside a couple of coats of paint. Not the inside, that’s getting different treatment.

I applied a couple of coats of paint.

I applied a couple of coats of paint.

So that  the drawer doesn’t slide directly on its plywood bottom, I added an oak runner or wear strip to the bottom edges.

¼" Oak wear strips added to the bottom of the drawers.

¼” Oak wear strips added to the bottom of the drawers.

I applied a heavy coat of paraffin wax to the wear strip.

I applied a heavy coat of paraffin wax to the wear strip.

The bottom drawer was fairly simple.  The upper drawer is a little more complicated as it needs to have a notch cut out of the back to account for the ramp that links the upper and lower levels of the hutch.

I milled up a bunch of oak stock and cut all the pieces to length to make the drawers.

I milled up a bunch of oak stock and cut all the pieces to length to make the drawers.

I’ll skip all the photos of the dovetailing this time as it is exactly the same as the first drawer.  In the bellow (after) photo, you can see the joints all finished.  This one took a little longer because of the notch.  As you can see, it has eight dovetail joints instead of four.

After much sawing and chiseling, I had this frame assembled.

After much sawing and chiseling, I had this frame assembled.

I cut an appropriately sized piece of ¼-inch ply for the bottom of the drawer. This was glued and nailed in place.

I cut an appropriately sized piece of ¼-inch ply for the bottom of the drawer. This was glued and nailed in place.

I did the same flush-cut and round-over with the trim router before painting.

After softening all of the edges with a ⅛-inch round over bit, I painted the drawer.

After softening all of the edges with a ⅛-inch round over bit, I painted the drawer.

My next-door neighbor had some left over countertop laminate that he gave me.  This will make a great waterproof liner for the drawers.

Glueing laminate to the inside of the upper poop drawer.

Glueing laminate to the inside of the upper poop drawer.

I didn't get all of the parts to align perfectly, but a good application of silicone caulking will take care of that later.

I didn’t get all of the parts to align perfectly, but a good application of silicone caulking will take care of that later.

After the glue had cured, I trimmed the edges flush with the laminate trim router and a block plane.

I made a quick jig for installing drawer pulls.

I made a quick jig for installing drawer pulls.

This will ensure that the holes are drilled in the right place.

This will ensure that the holes are drilled in the right place.

I bought these drawer pulls at a clearance sale at the Lee Valley store when I took a trip to Kelowna, BC last year.   I knew they would come in handy at some point.

Not bad for a 12¢ drawer pull.

Not bad for a 12¢ drawer pull.

I caulked all the seams and painted the top edges of the oak.

I caulked all the seams and painted the top edges of the oak.

This should keep any liquid from getting at the wood.

This should keep any liquid from getting at the wood.

The top and bottom drawers were done the same.

The top and bottom drawers were done the same.

Here are the drawers installed in the hutch.

Here are the drawers installed in the hutch.


Well, that’s the drawers done.  Now this thing needs a roof.  More on that in the next post.


– Jonathan White

Apfel - Apel

Two Lawyers Toolworks - Tue, 07/18/2017 - 10:19pm
Getting the finish closer to the end. Oberflächenbehandlung kurz vor dem Ende Pedderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12692353908068506678noreply@blogger.com0
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