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Thursday was the time or setting up at Handworks, and we were one of the first arrivals at the site. That let me get set up and explore the five venues for this bestest toolapalooza ever.
Slowly but surely the exhibitors began rolling in, beginning with my immediate neighbors Jeff Hamilton, maker of marking gauges whose spot was in between me and Lie-Nielson, and planemaker Gary Blum.
Directly adjacent to me across he aisle on one side were plane maker Matt Bickford and the Tools for Working Woods folks.
Across the other aisle was the temptation provided by vintage tool maven Patrick Leach. Much to my own astonishment I managed to avoid the siren song from this booth the entire weekend (admittedly at this point in life my tool needs are modest.)
Directly further up the Festhalle center row was printer and designer Wesley Tanner, the award winning collaborator for both Roubo books and the Studley book.
Along the barn side with Matt Bickford was a booth shared by Konrad Sauer and Raney Nelson, and immediately past them was Lost Art Press/Crucible Tools.
Then came our hosts, Benchcrafted vises and such.
Up in the far corner was designer and furniture maker Jeff Miller, who unfortunately occupied the coldest space in the building. I know, because it is where I was four years ago.
Working down the other outside wall we have Hock blades and precision maven Chris Vesper from Australia, followed by Blue Spruce Tools and David Barron.
The other end of the center row from me included plane maker Ron Brese, tuning up a tool for the masses tomorrow, jig maestro Tico Vogt, and Czeck Edge Tools.
At either end of the hall were the large footprints of Lee Valley Tools and Lie-Nielson Tools. These anchors to the tool-mall guaranteed a spectacular experience for the hordes on Friday and Saturday.
By the end of the day we were all set up, ready for the onslaught in the morning.
My dear reader, I would like to apologise for my extended absence from the wonder world of virtual woodworking via the internet. You would find the reasons quite boring so let’s not waste any time nor effort ruminating on such drivel. This instalment of an apparently mammoth series will concern itself with the addition of the third and final layer of the so-called trapezoid leg. You can find earlier posts in this series here.
Seeing that the third layer would ultimately close up the internal workings of the whole construction, I took the opportunity to unscrew the second layer’s three ‘cross members’ (for lack of a better term). As you should be able to observe in the photos below, the old school mild steel wood screws received a coat of beeswax. This was accomplished by melting a block of wax in a small tin containing these traditional fasteners. The idea with this is that the wax should reduce the effort required to seat the screws and at the same time providing a layer that would resist future corrosion.
The screws were then seated after the surfaces that is supposed to be able to slide ever so slightly with the changes in ambient humidity over the years, were rubbed with beeswax. Whether this is useful (or possibly the opposite) I do not know, but I tried it anyway. Therefore I would urge you to ask someone who knows before following suite. Maybe some of our more experienced and properly trained cadres could assist in the matter.
Seeing that the plan was to fix the third and final layer using panel pins I had to fashion a custom punch to seat the nails below the surface of the wood. A short section of a round file which I picked up somewhere served perfectly well for this purpose. It was shaped carefully (not to take the temper out of the hardened steel) on a bench grinder to fit the head of the panel pin to a T. There are some picks further down to show the business end of my new redneck punch.
As is so common here in Africa, I also had to modify the panel pins somewhat to serve my purpose. In order to allow layer one and two to be able to move relative to each other, these panel pins had to stop short of layer one. In other words they should only fix layer three to the cross members of layer two. That was accomplished by snipping off the required amount, followed by resharpening on the bench grinder.
The two Kershout strips were fitted first, as they needed to be absolutely spot on given the fact that they mirror the spindles of the so-called Windsor leg. Kershout seems to enjoy spending time off the Janka hardness charts (literally and figuratively) so it hard to say where it rates in comparison to better known species, but let’s just say it tends to take exception when a nail wants to upset it’s feng shui. For that reason I had to drill shank holes for each panel pin, which allowed the shank through and only caught the slightly wider head. This way the panel pins were more inclined to retain it’s linear configuration and the Kershout refrained from flexing it’s muscles.
As discussed in earlier posts, the third layer only needs to add another 8 mm for the trapezoid leg to reach it’s intended thickness of 44 mm. Therefore I decided to challenge my new bandsaw with fairly wide re-sawing in very hard Witpeer. Of course that also allowed me to introduce visual interest by means of a book-matched arrangement of the various pieces.
In order to do that I needed one flat, square and twist-free face side and face edge.
The resultant 8 mm stock were then fitted from the centre of the leg towards the outside. I again used the hitherto unproven technique of rubbing beeswax on the surfaces that is supposed to be able to slide.
I used a no. 78 and a no. 10 Stanley rabbet plane to cut the rabbets that hides the space allowed for movement.
The book-matched pattern is already vaguely apparent.
All the sides were then worked flush.
By hand plane along the grain …
… and by track saw followed by hand plane across the grain.
The small cavities created by seating the panel pins below the surface of the wood were filled with a concoction conjured up by mixing very fine wood dust (of the same wood of course) and epoxy.
Once the elixir had time to set I did a preliminary round of surface preparation.
As you can see the book-matched pattern is starting to emerge nicely. Once it receives oil it should be positively stunning.
Even the opposite side is starting to display a certain je ne sais quoi.
The edges were then treated to some hand beading to hide the laminations.
As you can see it worked a charm.
In our next instalment we will move on to laminating the various boards that was chosen (many moons ago) for the top.
|took it apart to try and salvage it|
|part of a chinese oak stair tread|
|X marks the high corners|
|the other side isn't twisted|
|miter box saw|
|wasn't 100% successful with that|
|the spine bottom will ride on top of these|
|the arm's pivot circle|
|the table pivot point|
|the legs don't lie flat|
|they don't lay flat on all four points|
|made a Wally World run|
|the bottom of the spine|
|the one thing I checked off the A+ list|
I'm going to put a piece of metal in this pie shaped indentation to strengthen it. I don't want to rely solely on the epoxy holding this together.
|first step is to make a rubbing of the metal piece|
|step 2 - glue it to the donor|
|step 3 - file the outline|
|step 4 - the filing will guide the cutoff wheel|
|wee bit too fat|
|a little filing and checking batted next|
|pretty good fit|
|ready to epoxy in place|
|backside of the coarsest diamond stone|
|cooking until tomorrow|
|used it on this end|
|the real stuff|
|tried it on the long grain edge|
|against steel wool on the other long edge edge|
|results weren't any better on the poplar|
|the winner is the real stuff|
|four coats of 1 lb cut on the certificate frame|
|4 coats on the end tops too|
How many people have won the Grand Slam in golf?
answer - Bobby Jones did it 1930 (before the Masters) Tiger Woods held all four titles in a row but not in the same calendar year
Stewart-MacDonald has been sending me emails recently about a device which allows guitar makers to adjust the height of a guitar nut or saddle while keeping the underside both square and straight (item # 4047 in the StewMac catalogue). Here’s a picture.
I thought that this was rather a good idea. Although it’s not especially difficult to adjust a nut or a saddle by hand with a file, it’s a tedious job and often takes a while. And the reviews on the StewMac website were positive, saying how quick and accurate the device was.
The drawback is that it’s quite expensive. By the time I’d paid shipping and import duty, buying one would probably cost around $200. So, I decided to make one for myself.
The body is a length of aluminium bar, 15mm x 30mm, drilled at each end to take an axle that carries miniature ball bearings.
Used with a sheet of P280 sandpaper on a flat surface, it worked quickly and accurately.
As I hope you will be able to see from the photographs, it’s not difficult to make, although you will need access to a drill press and a small lathe. The materials needed (aluminium bar and four miniature ball bearings) are easily available and cheap.
Mine took a bit longer to construct than it should have done because I drilled the holes for the axles too low, which meant that the body of the device ended up too far above the sanding surface. So I had to bush the holes and re-drill. If you’re making one, I’d recommend positioning the axle to give a gap of no more than 2mm between the bottom of the device and the sanding surface.
I didn't sleep very well last night. The peepers failed open at 0130 and I after an hour of trying to fall back to sleep, I got up. I wasn't going to work OT today but it was way too early to be in the shop so I went to work. I planned on only doing 3 hours but I did 6. We were taught a new way to scan certain documents into the system and today was my first time doing them solo. I got into a rhythm with it and when I came up for air I had already put in over 5 hours. I stayed to round it out to 6 and left then.
|had to sweep the deck|
What brought out the cleaning bug was me looking for something buried somewhere in the shop. As I was looking for that, I realized that I have way too many irons in the fire. I stopped counting after 7 and I could have probably gotten into double digits on just my immediate to do list. Granted some are quickies like setting the shavings on the 5 1/2, but picking the first one to do was giving me a headache.
Priority #1 I decided was me taking a day of rest. Getting up 4 hours before oh dark thirty was catching up to me and it wasn't even lunchtime yet. First batter was doing a leisurely sweep down of the shop which took until the early afternoon.
|WTF is it?|
|this didn't help|
|last thing I did and found|
|largest Ashley Iles chisels|
|ditto with the Buck Bros|
|31 year old delta 14" bandsaw insert|
|failed the bounce test with Mr Concrete floor a long time ago|
|had to make something today|
|the former one was here|
|ugly finger divot hole|
|just enough to get my finger underneath it|
|Grace saw nut screwdriver|
|easier to clean sans the handle|
Along with doing the saw I will have to get some grease for the pivot on the miter box. It doesn't look like it had much grease in it as there is some scoring on both seats.
How much does the skeleton of an average 160 pound human weigh?
answer - about 30 pounds
Last Friday, my wife and I, went to Brimfield, Massachusetts for their antique show. This Friday we headed to Springfield, Ohio for their Extravaganza. Even though the amount of vendors attending is a third of who sets up at Brimfield (2000 vs 6000), I was hoping to find better deals as I usually don’t do too bad at the Extravaganza.
There are a lot of professional dealers at Springfield, however the majority of them are concentrated in the center of the fairgrounds. As you venture out onto the outskirts of the show, that is where you’ll find people just setting up tables to sell some of their junk. These are the places where I find the best deals. It’s always nice to visit the tables with a bunch of tools from tool collectors, but that’s not typically where the deals are.
On this table were a Stanley BedRock No 604 for $150 and a Stanley No 8 for $100. Not bad prices if you wanted to pay retail, but I’m always looking for a deal.
Occasionally you’ll find good deals at these tables. Here were a couple of Stanley planes and a Keen Kutter No 5. The two No 5’s were $15 and the Stanley No 4 was only $21. I passed up on these planes as I wasn’t feeling it for some reason. I only had $40 left in my pocket and still wanted to walk around and see what else was available before I spent all my cash, so I walked away.
I always love checking out old anvils even though I haven’t set up my blacksmith shop yet. The big boy anvil in the front was a mere $1000. Too rich for my blood.
After we walked around the fairgrounds for six hours, I came home with a few nice tools. Two Stanley miter boxes, two Stanley No 3’s and two Hartford Clamp Co clamps. The clamps are the most interesting thing I bought as after I researched them, they were primarily used for gluing up thin panels. The bars ride on both sides of the panel so the wood won’t bow while being clamped. I’m going to clean them up and see how well they work.
As far as deals, I believe I did better at Springfield than I did at Brimfield even though I spent a little bit more money. Now I need to go back to the bank and get some more cash for the Burlington Antique Show in Kentucky on Sunday.
I have been told that I focus too much on southern plantations and that rich people have been building large houses in the northeast since the 17th century. And not just in Newport.
Back in October, I realized that the Yale Art Gallery exhibit of Rhode Island Furniture, Art and Industry in Early America: Rhode Island Furniture, 1650–1830, would be ending soon and I needed to make an effort to see it.
Searching around, I found cheap flight, a cheap hotel and a cheap rental car. Almost cheaper than staying home. Before I left, I finished my chores, the lawn, the laundry and the litter boxes. Early the next morning, I drove to the airport for a dawn flight to Boston.
This trip happened so quickly that I hadn’t really planned for much of anything. Yale was on the schedule for day two. It was day one. I was in a rental car and no clear idea of what I would be doing between 8:30 AM and bedtime. I pulled out the iPhone and started looking at some online resources.
I decided to visit Old Sturbridge Village in the afternoon. All I needed to do was find something fabulous en route. Three minutes later, I found a target and spent another two minutes trying to start the keyless car. I resolved that inconvenience set off for the Gore Place.
1804 to 1806, Governor/Senator Christopher Gore and his wife Rebecca built their mansion in Waltham, Mass for $24,000. In 1827, Christopher dies. In 1834, Rebecca dies. Having no heirs, the estate is auctioned and runs through traditional series of owner that presided of the inevitable decline. In 1921, The Waltham Country Club purchased the estate. They build a golf course and tennis courts on the grounds and use the mansion as a clubhouse. The Great Depression hastened the bankruptcy and failure of the country club in 1935.
The buildings fall into disrepair and are scheduled to be torn down to make room for new housing. A group of Bostonians with a view toward preservation raised money to buy the estate and formed the Gore Place Society.
Like other auctioned estates, the furniture is scattered by the auction. The Gore Place Society is faced with repopulating the mansion with appropriate furniture. What they did was to acquire Boston built furniture for much of it and track down and return the actual pieces when available.
This server is in the mansion:
This commode is of the estate:
To see all the pictures I have, click HERE.
I’m in Amana, Iowa this weekend for the Handworks 2017, and it’s a bit of a madhouse (but in a good way). It’s difficult to estimate the number of people, because the event is spread over five buildings in this historic German village, with hand tool makers, woodworking schools, timber framing, chairmakers, blacksmiths and more. I also haven’t gotten to see too many of the tools up close, because I’ve […]
Learning about CNCs at the Marc Adam’s School of Woodworking Furniture manufacturers and large cabinets shops have been using digital tools and CNCs for decades. But, for hobbyists and small to medium shops, digital woodworking is just now getting started. Being a new kind of woodworking, it’s certainly different. That means there are new things to learn. A few weeks ago, I taught two classes at the Marc Adams School […]
|packing from the miter saw|
|this was job #1 tonight|
On my lunch break I searched the WWW for a 2358 instruction manual and came up dry there but I came across a blog post I did in 2011 on doing the same thing for my 358 miter box. It's been 6 years since I got the 358 and got nowhere trying to breathe some life back into it. Bob, the Valley Woodworker, gave me a link to one on his famous tool blogs and the 2358 instruction manual is there.
Bob from Logan's cabinet shoppe made a new handle for the saw and sharpened it also. I only used it about 3-5 times and gave up on it. The 358 I have is worn out, missing a lot of parts, and it was too difficult trying to saw anything with it. The guy I got it from said it belonged to his father who was a carpenter who did rough and finish work.
|a few rust blooms to sand away|
|the posts fit on the saw|
|saw guide buttons|
|2 degrees warmer in the shop today|
|I'm satisfied with the color|
|re did the flat on this side|
|why I fettle the chipbreaker this way|
|I was thinking of a plane till at lunch today|
|it's going to be a big cabinet|
|#2 lever cap|
|it's a Disston saw|
|almost cleaned up|
Who holds the record for the longest senatorial filibuster?
answer - Senator Strom Thurmond does, doing it for 24 hours, 18 minutes in 1957
Even home-school kids have field trips, and I tagged along on one today to a place called Manomet – https://www.manomet.org/ to see a presentation about banding migrant landbirds. The winds finally shifted about 2 days ago, so now the southwest winds are bringing warblers up to New England.
Trevor Lloyd Evans and Maina Handmaker were our hosts, and gave us a lot of their time & attention. Here’s some of the birds we saw up close, as they were ready to be released, after having been weighed, measured, and recorded…
well, this first one wasn’t captured – it’s a flyover during our intro – an osprey.
this one I shot a lot, because I had never seen one before – a mourning warbler (Geothlypis philadelphia)
Maina & one of the kids releasing a female American redstart (Setophaga ruticilla)
This might be that redstart, or a young male we saw after..
Showing some of the kids how to tell the age of this catbird, based on feather color…
Northern waterthrush (Parkesia noveboracensis)
female magnolia warbler (Setophaga magnolia)
Least flycatcher (Empidonax minimus) – I could never ID this bird beyond “flycatcher” –
Rose got to let this one fly…
Right near the end of our visit, we got to see this chestnut-sided warbler (Setophaga pensylvanica)
And one whose name makes some sense – the common yellowthroat (Geothlypis trichas)
Trevor and Manomet’s mascot, the gray catbird (Dumetella carolinensis)
thanks to all for making this trip possible. I had more fun than I could stand.
I recently completed a box project that I did as practice for hand-cutting dovetails (a new skill for me that I plan to use for a furniture build in the not too distant future). Personally I like to feel like I’m making something when I practice instead of just cutting and recutting on a practice board (though I did do a little bit of that as well before starting my box). But […]
|wednesdays' night work|
|knurling is still dirty|
|plane parts ready to depart the citrus bath|
|everything goes in the strainer|
|back to the adjuster|
|15 sweaty minutes later|
|maybe the last ebonizing application|
|it's like a box of chocolates to quote Forrest Gump|
|it has a slight hollow|
|5 minutes later it is flat enough to start on the bevel|
|bevel rough shaped|
|I concentrate on the very edge|
|consistent scratch pattern from the R to L and no hollows|
|coarse diamond stone next|
|stoned a flat on this side|
|leading edge is shiny without any stropping|
|oiled up the plane parts - no more playing with the #2 tonight|
|it's not a breadbox|
|Stanley 2358 broken down for shipping|
|these parts are seldom seen on miter boxes for sale|
|I put this in place like this for now|
|I need to look these up|
|looks like an ordinary light switch cover|
|LED lights at the bottom|
|gets the power off the two silver terminals|
This is it. I could have done more but I dislike sweating and working in this weather. I'll just have to slow down and take it easy until this weather goes south.
What is the significance of latitude 39° 43' in American history?
answer - it's the Mason-Dixon line
Today was Workbench-Organization-Day. It’s amazing how cluttered my workbench can get over a few months. It took me a couple hours to toss all those forgotten scraps into the firewood pile, organize the pieces of When-I-Get-around-to-It projects, and–of course–collect and putting away stray hardware.
You know how it goes. Spare nails, screws, nuts, and bolts accumulate at an an alarming rate in the corners of workshops. Sometimes I think they breed there. I have a couple small dishes that I keep on my workbench for collecting these bits of hardware when I find them, but when the dishes start to overflow, it’s time to actually put things away.
I’ve tried a few different hardware-storage systems. Well, “system” might be too strong a word. Like most “handy” guys, I have nails, hinges, and L-brackets in some random coffee cans and jars, but little by little, I’m converting to a simple modular-storage system. It’s taken me a while to make the conversion, though, because I need to drink more tea.
Yes, I use the leftover tins from Twinings loose-leaf tea for storing hardware. They come in two convenient sizes, and the lids are made such that boxes of the same size will neatly stack on top of one another. Unlike mason jars or coffee cans, these rectangular containers can be packed next to each other in a drawer with almost no wasted space between them. And they’re totally flexible. Changing the contents is as easy as writing a new label.
The only downside is that, unlike glass or plastic, I can’t see what’s inside each one unless I open it. But I’ve cracked or broken enough glass jars and plastic containers that I’ll gladly put up with limited visibility. I usually just dump the entire contents onto my bench, pick out what I need, and then hold the box up to the edge of the bench while I sweep the rest of the hardware back into it. You can’t do that with a round jar.
I’m normally a coffee drinker, so it’s taken me some time to replace most of my mason jars and coffee cans with tea tins. I still have several to go.
So pour me a cuppa tea, guv’nor! I’ve got more hardware to put away.
Tagged: box, hardware, hardware storage, storage, tea, tea tin, Twinings
Look for new videos from Popular Woodworking every Tuesday and Thursday. We’ll post videos about what we’re up to around the shop, teaching videos from some of our favorite friends and some fun stuff from the woodworking world. Many of the viewers of our I Can Do That! videos know host Chad Stanton from his Big Chopperoo videos and wonder why he’s not dancing on I Can Do That. Trust us, […]
The post The Silly Side of Chad Stanton – Host of I Can Do That! appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.
I’m building a pencil post bed for our master bedroom. The four posts, cut from curly maple, were chamfered to a tapered octagonal shape, first on the table saw and then with a 45° chamfer bit using a jig that allowed me to use a handheld router. The router created a nice rounded transition at the point where the chamfers meet the square bottoms of the posts. That would have looked fine as it was, but I decided to add a traditional bit of decorative detail in the form of lamb’s tongues. Lamb’s tongues are, in effect, stops at the end of a chamfer, followed by an ogee shape.
My bed posts are 2-3/4 X 2-3/4″ at the bottom, tapering to 1-1/2″ wide at the top. At the transition point, the chamfers are 7/8″ wide.
I made a wooden template in the shape of an ogee based on 7/8″ intersecting arcs.
I drew lines marking the location of the stops at the end of the transitions and the baselines that extended out from the edge of the chamfers, then marked the shape of the lamb’s tongue on both sides of the leg.
I found that some adaptation was needed from one chamfer to another, since the width of the chamfers sometimes varied slightly.
Once marked, I made a vertical saw cut at the stop line with a Veritas 14 ppi crosscut saw, being careful not to overcut the baselines. Then, using a Shenandoah Tool Works 1 lb. mallet and a sharp 3/4″ bench chisel, I cut away the waste between the chamfer and the stop with the chisel bevel down.
I smoothed the chamfer up to the stop with the chisel held flat and bevel up and followed this with a Lie-Nielsen chisel plane and a card scraper to finish the surface. The goal is to get a sharply-defined stop at the edge of the ogee.
I then cut the ogees carefully by wasting away most of the wood with the mallet and chisel, again being careful not to overcut the line.
I followed this with a #9 and #13 Auriou rasp, then sanded the surface to 180 grit to eliminate any marks from the rasps. The result: a nice traditional detail to dress up my bed posts.
Norm Reid is a woodworker, writer, and woodworking instructor living in the Blue Ridge Mountains with his wife, a woodshop full of power and hand tools and four cats who think they are cabinetmaker’s assistants. He is the author of the forthcoming book Choosing and Using Handplanes. He can be contacted at email@example.com.