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General Woodworking

Woodworking Tips With Asa Christiana – 360w360 E.250

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 4:10am
Woodworking Tips With Asa Christiana – 360w360 E.250

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking Asa Christiana drops back in to talk about woodworking tips published in his book, “Build Stuff with Wood.” Topics include how to improve acid brushes to what are the best castors for shop carts. Plus, the the idea of moving woodworking beyond a solo event, and the benefits thereof are discussed.

Join 360 Woodworking every Thursday for a lively discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more).

Continue reading Woodworking Tips With Asa Christiana – 360w360 E.250 at 360 WoodWorking.

shipping box done....

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 1:13am
Over the past few weeks I've been reading what I can about the art of hammering kinks out of saw plates. I am sending one out to be done and I have two unkinked beater saws that will become scraper stock. I am thinking of trying to kink them first so I can practice on them. From what I have seen and read, it doesn't appear to be rocket science requiring a PhD to do. I can probably with practice do it but I don't want to practice on my grandson's saw.

another after dinner outing
The glue had set up on the bottom so after dinner I  came down to the shop and screwed it. I removed the screws from the corners as they weren't needed anymore. The glue and screws on the bottom will hold the box sides in place.

replaced the screws with miller dowels
I split all four corners driving the screws in which was expected. I didn't predrill because I use spax screws which are pretty good for not needing a pilot hole. I still haven't found a screw that will drill into end grain without splitting it. With or without a pilot hole.  I forced some glue into the cracks and clamped them. This is where I started tonight in the shop.

foam insulation
This was the packing material that was used to ship my miter saw to me. I'm going to reuse it on my saw.

stabilizer
This piece of scrap is the same thickness as one side of the saw plate to the outside edge of the handle. This will keep the saw plate straight in shipping to and from.

I'll put a piece of foam on top of it when I ship it

sawing this is as easy as ripping a piece of paper
didn't even clog the teeth
the most important part
A couple of years ago I had shipped a saw out to Bad Axe to get sharpened. Mark told me to protect the horns on the handle. He said these often came to him broken.

sawed the proud off on the bandsaw
The box isn't a nice rectangle. It is wider at one end then the other to better fit the shape of the saw. This is the wide end.

ready to address and ship
I sanded all the edges and ran my fingers along them to make sure there weren't any catch points. I marked this side as the one to be opened.

The big storm we were supposed to get turned out to be the big bust. The forecast was for 3-5 inches of rain and 50 MPH plus winds wednesday night. When I went to work this morning it didn't even look like it had rained. And I saw no wind damage anywhere on the drive in to work. The next few days will be cloudy with off and on rain until sunny skies come back on saturday. What I went through is nothing compared to what the people in the south had to endure.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a milquetoast person?
answer - someone who is meek or timid



Frankly, These Guys Are Kicking A@$

360 WoodWorking - Wed, 09/20/2017 - 4:47pm
Frankly, These Guys Are Kicking A@$

This week, beginning on Monday, I have a couple of woodworkers in the shop building Pembroke tables. Frankly, these guys are kicking A@$. It’s been only three days and the Franks – that’s right, both guys in the class are named Frank – are owning these tables.

As you can see in the photo, the tables, complete with oval drop-leaf tops and fly rails with knuckle joints, are all but finished. Because they plan to breakdown the tables to transport them back to their shops, they decided to build without assembly, which is why the aprons are not yet installed.

Continue reading Frankly, These Guys Are Kicking A@$ at 360 WoodWorking.

Virtuosity At A Whole Different Scale

The Barn on White Run - Wed, 09/20/2017 - 4:38pm

My acquaintance Bill Robertson, maker of astonishing miniatures, is featured in a new TED Talk.  Watch, and prepare to be astounded.

Live at Lunch! Build a Sturdy Workbench is LIVE on Facebook

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 09/20/2017 - 1:32pm

One of the perks of working at Popular Woodworking is the unlimited access to the decades of content in our library. The shear number of books, magazines and videos that I have access to is remarkable. Brendan Gaffney started at the magazine about three months after me and it’s not uncommon to see one of our monitors running a video from videos.popularwoodworking.com in the background while we work. There’s just […]

The post Live at Lunch! Build a Sturdy Workbench is LIVE on Facebook appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Repairing the Underside of the FORP Bench

The Barn on White Run - Wed, 09/20/2017 - 5:15am

With a little logistical cogitation John and I, both 60-somethings and neither of us mesomorphs, managed to maneuver the 300+ pound top of the French Oak Roubo Project workbench out into the light.  Immediately I was struck by both the magnificence of the 240(?) year old white oak slab, and the waney void adjacent to a glue line on the underside of it.  I suppose at one time I was just going to leave it as-is, an admittedly foggy memory going back four years, but given that one of the leg mortises needed to go right through the flawed region I decided instead to fill it.  I could have grafted in another piece of oak but instead fell back on a tried-and-true method of repair that I have employed several times in the past as it was especially well suited for a repair of this size.

I first sized (primed) the margins of the effected area with standard West System epoxy, thinned about 25% with acetone to get deep penetration.  One of the reasons for any potential epoxy failures, whether in adhesion, consolidation or filling, is that the epoxy does not penetrate adequately to knit the entire construct together nicely.  What then often happens also is that the density differences between the high density inelastic epoxy and the less dense, much more elastic wood, may result in a fracture at their margin when they are intimately bound together in a cyclic stressful environment.  The diluted epoxy addresses the first of these problems, the filling of epoxy with large wood flakes addresses the second.

 

In this case I ran a scrap of oak through the power planer to yield the typically large shavings you would expect from the machine.  I took handfuls of these shavings and packed them down into the void that had been previously primed with the thinned epoxy.

I then drizzled un-thinned epoxy on top of the wood flakes, then sprinkled on more shavings and packed them again through some wax paper.  I let the entire fill to harden overnight.

An additional feature of fills like this is that when the volume is large enough, the exothermic reaction of the epoxy hardening causes the adhesive to actually boil in place, aerating the  fluid as it hardens, reducing further the density of the hardened fill.  This is a very good thing.

The resulting repair is much closer in density to the wood, thus reducing the risk of a system fracture at their interface, and yields a repair that can be easily smoothed with a rasp or Surform tool.

The success of the repair can be clearly seen in the edges of the mortises I drilled and pounded through the slab and the repair (next blog post).  It held together wonderfully and had working properties nearly identical to the adjacent oak.

Ten Ways I am Doing Things Differently - Part 2

Tools For Working Wood - Wed, 09/20/2017 - 4:00am

I've been working with wood since I was a kid. I took my first woodworking class at the 92nd Street Y when I was 6 years old. I've been taking classes and building stuff for over 35 years. For the last 17 I have been working at Tools for Working Wood. In that time, new tools and new techniques have come on the market. By and large I have ignored them in my personal work. However, I haven't ignored everything, and my methods of work have in certain areas changed dramatically for the better. I've broken up my list of ten things into three posts so I don't drone on and on here. This is part two. Part 1 is here

Domino Joiner


When I studied in school, the idea of a powered joining system was an anathema to teachers and students of traditional methods. At the time, there weren't many options -- dowel joints were the most prominent. The Metropolitan Museum's Study Collection had Frank Lloyd Wright chairs that used dowel joints to hold the backs together. What made me notice this? The chairs were coming apart.

Towards the end of my studying time, Lamello biscuit joiners started gaining popularity, and by the 1990's biscuits had become the go-to method for joining cabinets. Many cabinet shops had stationary mortisers for floating tenons for stronger joints.

Then Festool introduced the Domino into the US in the first years of the 21st century. It was a portable, accurate machine for installing floating tenons. This was a game changer. I was so impressed with Festool's innovation that when I opened TFWW, a center for hand tools, I decided to add Festool to the mix. Over the years as a Festool dealer and user my faith in the system hasn't been challenged. We routinely use Dominos in our own shop for all sorts of construction. There are cases where manually cutting a mortise is easier, usually when working with bizarro angles, and there is the satisfaction of chopping a mortise by hand. The system isn't cheap, either. But for me, the Domino me is an enabler of projects I would not ordinarily have the time for.

Magnification


I am getting older - better than the alternative - and for the past five years or so I haven't been able to see detail. My eyesight has been bad since third grade, but worsened with time. About ten years ago I started wearing continuous bifocals for reading. I also have a pair of computer glasses for focusing on my computer screen and reading . Close-up work become impossible until I re-discovered what everyone else in the same situation had already re-discovered: Magnification! Specifically, the Optivisor, which we now stock. They are surprisingly comfortable. I use a number 5 (2 1/2x magnification) with a headlamp. It makes a huge difference for small work. For just doing things like sharpening a saw, lesser magnification a #2 (which only magnifices 1.5x which isn't much at all) is a game changer for me. The lower magnification gives me a greater working distance which is nice. I wear them over my glasses. They are US-made and are of sufficiently high quality so I don't get eyestrain. I don't know what I would do without them. The game changing was especially sweet because between the time I noticed I could not do close work anymore and getting the Optivior, I went through an unhappy period of thinking that my woodworking days were behind me. I live in an apartment and I don't really need more furniture, but carving and miniatures have always held an attraction. I had been hoping that I would become good enough at relief carving to really enjoy the results of doing it - something not possible without magnification.

Flake Shellac


My first encounter with shellac was with a small bottle of hobby store shellac that might have been purchased during the Eisenhower administration. When I tried to use it during the Johnson administration it seemed to just lie there and not dry at all. Shellac was a mystery until maybe ten years ago. At that time I started understanding the difference between what you got in bottles pre-mixed, and what you could do if you mixed up shellac flakes with good alcohol yourself. While I had seen French polish in museums, it was only then that I saw fellow woodworkers finish their work with French polish. For the first time I really understood how wonderful shellac could be. Since that time I basically have three go-to finishes. Finishing oil, for anything that I want a matte finish on and anything walnut. Polyurethane from a can, for anything I just need to keep clean of fingerprints and I don't care about. And fresh shellac, mixed up from de-waxed shellac flakes as needed, French polished, or just brushed on and rubbed out. That's my classy finish. I still love my oil finishes but a shellac finish is just classier on so many levels.

That's all for now. More to come next time. What are your gamechangers?

Five Lessons from the Staked Chair Project

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 09/20/2017 - 3:00am

I moved to Kentucky/Cincinnati on July 1st, and by the 15th of the month, I was already starting out on building the furniture for my new house here. Josselyn (my partner) and I had committed to leaving behind the cheap, second-hand furniture we had bought since leaving college years ago, and in doing so, arrived without a dining table, dining chairs, coffee table or a proper bedroom set. So, for […]

The post Five Lessons from the Staked Chair Project appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

toolbox 99.99% done.......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 09/20/2017 - 1:35am
I am done with upgrading the toolbox woodworking wise. The last 0.01% left is to paint the dust shield banding I put on. I will also paint the rest of the tool exterior again. After it has been painted I'll put on a couple coats of satin poly. That will make it easier to clean the dust off of it. I'm looking forward to filling it with tools for Miles.


done right


These are the dovetails I expect of myself each and everytime I do them. On the times I fail to meet this standard, I have to use epoxy.



top edge flushed and cleaned up






till fits and slides easily R/L and L/R
Now the woodworking is done.

small gap
Both tills are up against the handles on the big till leaving this space.  There really isn't enough room to reach down beneath and take tools out. The space will allow moving either till toward the middle and lifting it out. You can then place the till onto the other one and have access to the bottom till.

the determining factor
This 12" steel ruler drove the size of this till.

the way I wanted the rule to go
The ID of the toolbox is  12"  so there wasn't any way I could have made a till to fit the ruler this way.

got his herd of planes in the box
I'm glad for this. The planes are a lot safer now in the toolbox then living on the dump table under a towel.

it's temporary home
This doesn't have many tools in it and it is heavy. I am not sure the handles I have on it will be able to handle picking it up fully loaded. Something I'll have to keep an eye on.

first temporary home
I keep the vacuum cleaner here and my standup to use dustpan and brush so it got ruled out. Eventually the toolbox will be stowed underneath the table on the left. I've got to clean that space out and find a new home for the crappola I have there now.

is it ok to change your mind on tools
I have used this marking since I went whole hog into hand tool woodworking about 6 years ago. It took me a while to get used to it and there haven't been any instances where I couldn't use it. One frustration I have with it is sharpening it. You have to keep this wicked sharp at all times in order to get optimum performance out of it. Sharpening a spear point, free hand, is not that easy for me to do.

Lee Valley throw away
 This marking knife is actually pretty good. I have sharpened it so much I changed the spear point profile. It is like the Energizer Bunny, it just keeps on going. It's a spear point and that means hard to sharpen, especially so being a small one. That and wishing the plastic was wood is killing this one. Although lately I have been using this one much more than the big spear point.

old time marking knife
I bought this from the Best of Things and it took me a long time to fettle the business end. I used it for a while and set it aside. It's been promoted again to head of the class. This is, or will be Miles marking knife but I'm going to give it a try again in the interim.

back is flat and shiny
this is what I've come around to again
I like this broad flat surface to run the knife against something. It was originally why I bought it but I was turned off by it's small size. I have since gotten use to small size marking knives by using the Lee Valley throw away.

cleanly incised line and easy to see

clean and neat line too
ditto
Of the three marking knife, this was the easiest one to make a line with. It is sharp right now and I know when to sharpen because it will drag when making a line. All three make the same incised line but the old time marking gauge is the only the didn't leave any fuzz on the exit. The LV knife left the biggest one because it must have picked up a burr.

my squares are getting chewed up
This is another reason why I want to try using the old time marking knife (again). I am hoping that it's broader contact area will stop me from doing this. With the spear point knives I tend to tilt the knife and catch this edge.

I also have a Lee Valley spear point marking knife with a wooden handle I forgot to snap a pic of. The business end of that has a broader, shorter profile than my big knife. I tried that for a few days and put it away. I didn't like that one at all.  I will try to do all my marking with the old knife for now and see what shakes out with it.

one of Miles panel saws
This saw has a few kinks in it. I am sending this out to have the saw plate straightened and filed for a rip cut.



Miles saws
L to R, the kinked crosscut, crosscut, and a dull rip with no set.

11 TPI
This is the small rip saw and it is the only one that has the TPI stamped on it. All three saws have no etch at all that I can make out.

I like the hang on this saw
This will get filed for 7 TPI rip. I think that the teeth may have to be punched for that.

getting an idea for the saw till size
It looks like a 25-26" ID will do for the length.

as is it is 6"
Wiggle room and some kind of holder will add a couple of more inches to the width ID.

until I make the saw till
shipping box
I could not find a cardboard box that approximated the size of the saw. I am making a custom one out of scraps.

screwed the corners
I will glue and screw the bottom on and just screw the top. Once the bottom has been glued and screwed, I'll remove the screws from the corners.


glued and cooking
I'll finish this tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What are Stratocumulus, Stratus, Cumulus, Cumulonimbus clouds classified as?
answer - Low Level Clouds (0 to 1.25 miles)

Do You Really Need to Measure Diagonals?

Bob Lang's ReadWatchDo - Tue, 09/19/2017 - 10:32am
I was one of those kids who continually asked “why?” and I’ve never outgrown that. My mother taught me how to look things up and my dad, a card-carrying chemical engineer,  taught me to weigh the results of anything I Continue reading →
Categories: General Woodworking

Product Video: Benchcrafted Hi Vise Hardware

Highland Woodworking - Tue, 09/19/2017 - 8:00am

Improve the Comfort in Your Shop with the Benchcrafted Hi Vise Hardware!

In this video, Guy Dunlap explains how the new Benchcrafted Hi Vise hardware can dramatically improve your approach to carving tasks, cutting and paring dovetails or any detail work, allowing greater control. Guy also reviews the easy installation of this valuable addition to your shop.

Find out more and purchase your own Benchcrafted Hi Vise Hardware at Highland Woodworking.

The post Product Video: Benchcrafted Hi Vise Hardware appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Diamonds are a Turner’s Best Friend: My Favorite Slipstone

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 09/19/2017 - 7:44am

The circumference of a 12” bowl (2πr) is about 38”. Multiply that to a lathe’s speed and you’ll realize that wood turners are making almost a mile of shavings a minute. I think it’s fair to say that turners sharpen more than any other woodworkers. Like other areas of the craft, religious sects have developed around sharpening in the turning world. Yet few fanatics outside of skew maniacs ever discuss […]

The post Diamonds are a Turner’s Best Friend: My Favorite Slipstone appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Forest To Furniture 2017

Inside the Oldwolf Workshop - Tue, 09/19/2017 - 5:22am
Every year I get a couple chances to do a couple presentations at one of my favorite places in the world. The Castlerock Museum of Arms and Armor in Alma Wisconsin. A month ago I fed my medieval history hobby with a presentation on "Hollywood Vs. History: The Facts Shouldn't Ruin A Good Story" It was a lot of fun, I like building these formal(ish) lectures and interacting with the crowd.

Tom on the right and me on the left. Paul Nyborg is a good friend in the middle.
He's demonstrated with us in years past but won't make it this time around.

But next week Sunday Sept. 24th. I get to do something I've come to like even more. For the past few years Tom Latane and I have partnered up in ap presentation called "Forest To Furniture" We show the process of taking logs and producing furniture from the rough parts. In the past we've tackled, general techniques, joined stools (to varying degrees of success), and a small corner shelf, (the two produced are used in the museum)

This year I'm extra excited, we are working on a three legged staked stool based on patterns found in numerous Viking Age archaeological digs. Here's a LINK to google images. It's a simple stool in a staked furniture fashion but I rarely like the reproductions I see done. Last spring I revisited the form myself using Chris Schwarz's work on staked furniture as a guide and I was able to create a prototype I felt better about.



This coming Sunday Tom and I will go about improving on my prototype as anyone who wants to come can sit and watch us sweat and talk sawdust and anything else. The show does cost a nominal fee for the museum but the bad jokes are all free.

Please consider joining us!

Ratione et Passionis
Oldwolf
Categories: General Woodworking

Insect Infestation and Salvaged Lumber

The Barn on White Run - Tue, 09/19/2017 - 4:47am

With our ambitious agenda awaiting us for the Man Week at the barn, our first task was to begin the Tetris game that always seems to be on tap for any type of reorganizing the shop.  The ripple molding machine was easily accessible for John but I had to move a ton of stuff to get to the FORP I workbench parts that were behind the parts for all the other workbenches that are not yet finished, and a large pile of old oak salvaged from the shack deconstruction that we were working on when I crossed paths with the cranky wheelbarrow that put me out of commission for the better part of a year.

The first thing I noticed from the pile of salvaged oak was the presence of frass in between each piece of the stack.  It might have been old frass from a no-longer-active infestation or it might not.  It was not an extreme amount but I was not going to take a chance as I was going to be making furniture for the cabin from it.

I mixed up my typical batch of insecticide with a gallon of marine anti-freeze and two 8 oz. cups of dry borate-complex powder (Disodium Octaborate Tetrahydrate), then mixed with a paint stirrer in my cordless drill.

I used a cheap garden sprayer to saturate the boards and stacked them under plastic to let it all soak in thoroughly.  After 36 hours I set them against the barn to dry, and two days later moved them inside and will put them to use when that project moves to the top of the pile.

toolbox almost done......

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 09/19/2017 - 1:05am
The upgrading I've been doing on the toolbox is almost done. I glued the bottom on the last till tonight and it'll be ready to put into the toolbox tomorrow. The toolbox has handles so that isn't an issue but a lock might be. I've been thinking about one and I've been back and forth on it being in and out. For the time being, the toolbox will be in my shop so a lock isn't necessary. I think I'll wait on it until Miles comes of age so he can decide.

I am not going to put saws in the toolbox. I had watched a toolbox presentation on the evolution of them from about 1660 up to the late 1800's. According to the person presenting he said saws were not commonly kept in toolboxes. I found that hard to understand when all the tools a craftsman needed were supposedly in the toolbox. How did he saw anything? The presenter said saws were kept in a separate saw till. Although he did show a few chests with saws stowed in the lid and in the interior bottom.

I like the idea of a separate saw till to hold Miles saws. I have a crosscut and rip saw for him already and I am going to get a dovetail, carcass, and tenon saw too.  Making a saw till for him will free up that space in the toolbox for other tools.

blue tape to the rescue
Another after dinner fix. When I was flushing the plywood I blew out the middle ply on the plywood. Super glue and blue tape fixed that.

I can't see it
The epoxy has set up on the tails and pins and they are solid feeling. All the tails are fully seated and there are some gaps on the sides. They aren't too bad as you see here so it appears the epoxy worked.

cleaned and flushed up the top
This till is done. I'm not putting any finish on it and no handles. Bob said to leave the space between them so I can pick them up. I agree with him.

gluing on the bottom
The width matches and I left if long because one end was wild and ragged out. I nailed 3 corners to hold it in place while I glued it.

glued, clamped, and cooking
handle stock
This was a practice run and the profile is a grecian ovolo.  It will make a better looking handle than a squarish one.

the before and after
 I sawed out two 4 inch handles and I rounded over the top and bottom.

found some screws
 I am going screw the handles on for now. I want to play with them for a while before I commit to gluing and screwing them.

set my 4" square to the depth
screw holes done
I used the square to set the depth on the outside of the till. The handle is flush with the top of the till and I put the screws in on the outside first then the middle one.

should have erased that pencil line
I marked the outside edge of the handle and then a 1/2" in from that for the screw. I'll plug this errant hole somehow. I countersunk the holes so I could bury the head of the screw so it wouldn't stick out so much.

laid it out right on this side
they work well
No problems grasping the handles and lifting the till and out of the toolbox. It didn't feel awkward nor was it difficult getting a grip on the handles.

I don't like the flat look on the ends
This may be the impetus for me to get my miter box put together. I think these would look better with an angle sawn on the ends or maybe a round over.

my backyard maple tree
This is the first time that this tree has turned and dropped leaves this early that I can recall. It usually keeps it's leaves till the end of October and beyond. I told my wife about it and she said she noticed that the leaves had a brown spots on them last month. It looks like it got bugs or a disease from something.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
On the Bob Newhart show (1970's), what was the apartment number he lived in?
answer - 523


I Was Assured They’re Old.

The Furniture Record - Mon, 09/18/2017 - 10:28pm

I was talking to Peter Follansbee about life, woodworking and this blog when he asked my why I didn’t take pictures of anything really old? My threshold for old is pre-McKinley (1900) while Mr. Follansbee’s is 16th century. The obvious answer is that the places I have access to don’t often have anything old. The number of Empire chests-of-drawers far exceeds the number of jointed English stools in the retail/auction market.

To address Mr. Follansbee’s concerns, I offer here two dealer-confirmed old pieces. I completely trust antiques dealers. What possible incentive would they have to lie or deceive?

Is it a cupboard if it was built before cups were invented? Could it be a jelly if all they had was preserves? It’s that old:

IMG_2482

It’s a really old cabinet of some sort.

IMG_2486

They told me that the door is as old as the rest of the cabinet.

IMG_2484

Hand forged pintle hinges.

IMG_2487

Even the drop pull is hand forged.

Equally old or even older is this chest:

IMG_3023

More frame and panel construction. They didn’t have wide boards back then.

IMG_3024

A coopered domed lid with a hand hewn rib.

IMG_3025

A primitive hinge notched for leg clearance.

IMG_3028

This lock (interior view)

IMG_3026

is held on with clinched nails.

IMG_3029

Looking at the end, somebody really liked their beading plane. Note the through tenons on the legs.

 


Defiant Woodworking Syndrome.

Inside the Oldwolf Workshop - Mon, 09/18/2017 - 11:20am

The thing that really hooked me on "The Anarchist Tool Chest" when I first opened the book was the title to the prologue.

"Disobey Me" 

Those two words, impossible to follow one way or the other, distilled most of my attitude for this world. I was fortunate I traversed my public school education when the term Attention Deficit was only beginning to gain traction and understanding. If then were today I'd probably carry the boat anchor labels of Oppositional Defiance Disorder, or Rage Disorder, and most certainly ADHD. To be clear I don't believe I'm any of these things, I'm simply more willful, emotional, and free thinking than your average bear.

Whatever you tell me might be right, but I pathologically refuse to accept things without taking my own punches and learning for myself. If I'm wrong I'm happy to admit it, but I have to find out I'm wrong first. Sometimes it takes me a long time to figure it out.

When I went to install the hinges on my version of The ATC I was mindful about the hardware I was using. I knew Chris advocates slotted screws in furniture and the best argument I've heard from him for it is "because they look right." I debated in my mind for a little bit and came to a thought that went something like this:

"F U Chris, this is a modern take on a traditional tool chest. Slotted screws are the right thing for replacing or replicating an older or period piece, but this is my take built today and I'm gonna use the phillips screws that came with the hinges" 

I've been working out of this chest nearly everyday since 2011 and at first my decision didn't bother me, but in the last six years I've changed. Maybe it was the impetus of building the chest itself, maybe it's just the natural progression of the way my mind works, but soon after I started really studying furniture and woodworking on a deeper level than what the magazines were feeding me. I started finding books recommended by woodworkers I admired and then combing the bibliographies of those books to find that source material. The size of my personal library grew, now somewhere in the range of 250 books.

And the more I've read, and the more I've paged through volumes of furniture, the more I've realized that god dammit Chris you're right, alongside the nail head, the clocked slotted screw just looks like it belongs and the rest, phillips, square, torx, or hex, they stand out like a red devil in a crowd of nuns.

A few days ago I picked up some replacement slot headed wood screws, and I replaced the crappy phillips screws, and now my obsessiveness can move on to a different victim. Oh until I have a chance to redo to redo the compartments in the bottom level of my chest. turns out over time I was wrong about them too. . .

Ratione et Passionis
Oldwolf
Categories: General Woodworking

How to Make Vintage Linoleum Countertops – Part 2

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 09/18/2017 - 6:52am

Note: This is the second of a series. The third will deal with mitered and rounded corners. Measure Be sure you take into account any desired overhangs at the front or end of a cabinet run (or table base) as well as radiused corners, and be sure you note the farthest points in all cases (such as areas along the length of a wall where the wall dips in), to make […]

The post How to Make Vintage Linoleum Countertops – Part 2 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Working Wood in the 18th Century

The Barn on White Run - Mon, 09/18/2017 - 5:09am

If you’re paying attention you might know by now I will be one of the presenters at the upcoming Colonial Williamsburg annual conference Working Wood in the 18th Century, January 25-28, 2018.

I have two time slots, the first being a discussion of the acouterments of a Parisian woodworking atelier in the late 18th century, including Roubo workbenches and ripple molding machines.  If all goes well we will be demonstrating these machines, making ripple molding right there on stage.  My second session will be the concluding presentation of the conference IIRC, reviewing and demonstrating the practice of woodfinishing of the era.

I hope to see you there.  Say “Hi” if you make it.

Varnishers of The World, Unite!

Roorkhee Chair Part 3 of 3

She Works Wood - Mon, 09/18/2017 - 4:00am
Glam shots of the Roorkhee.   Black Limba sure helps make this Campaign chair. Enjoy!
Categories: General Woodworking

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