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General Woodworking

Handworks 2017 – Day 0, Festhalle

The Barn on White Run - Mon, 05/22/2017 - 6:44pm

Thursday was the time or setting up at Handworks, and we were one of the first arrivals at the site.  That let me get set up and explore the five venues for this bestest toolapalooza ever.

Slowly but surely the exhibitors began rolling in, beginning with my immediate neighbors Jeff Hamilton, maker of marking gauges whose spot was in between me and Lie-Nielson, and planemaker Gary Blum.

Directly adjacent to me across he aisle on one side were plane maker Matt Bickford and the Tools for Working Woods folks.

Across the other aisle was the temptation provided by vintage tool maven Patrick Leach.  Much to my own astonishment I managed to avoid the siren song from this booth the entire weekend (admittedly at this point in life my tool needs are modest.)

Directly further up the Festhalle center row was printer and designer Wesley Tanner, the award winning collaborator for both Roubo books and the Studley book.

Along the barn side with Matt Bickford was a booth shared by Konrad Sauer and Raney Nelson, and immediately past them was Lost Art Press/Crucible Tools.

Then came our hosts, Benchcrafted vises and such.

Up in the far corner was designer and furniture maker Jeff Miller, who unfortunately occupied the coldest space in the building.  I know, because it is where I was four years ago.

Working down the other outside wall we have Hock blades and precision maven Chris Vesper from Australia, followed by Blue Spruce Tools and David Barron.

The other end of the center row from me included plane maker Ron Brese, tuning up a tool for the masses tomorrow, jig maestro Tico Vogt, and Czeck Edge Tools.

At either end of the hall were the large footprints of Lee Valley Tools and Lie-Nielson Tools.  These anchors to the tool-mall guaranteed a spectacular experience for the hordes on Friday and Saturday.

By the end of the day we were all set up, ready for the onslaught in the morning.

18th Century Beeswax Wood Finishing with a French Polissoir (Don Williams Workshop Tour Part 4)

Wood and Shop - Mon, 05/22/2017 - 10:54am
By Joshua Farnsworth In part four of the above video workshop tour, Don Williams teaches how to use a French Polissoir with a beeswax wood polish to create an incredible 18th century historic furniture wood finish. WHAT IS A FRENCH "POLISSOIR"? A polissoir (polisher) is essentially straw broom bristles tightly bound together with string. You

My second commission – part 10

Je ne sai quoi Woodworking - Mon, 05/22/2017 - 5:35am


My dear reader, I would like to apologise for my extended absence from the wonder world of virtual woodworking via the internet. You would find the reasons quite boring so let’s not waste any time nor effort ruminating on such drivel. This instalment of an apparently mammoth series will concern itself with the addition of the third and final layer of the so-called trapezoid leg. You can find earlier posts in this series here.

Seeing that the third layer would ultimately close up the internal workings of the whole construction, I took the opportunity to unscrew the second layer’s three ‘cross members’ (for lack of a better term). As you should be able to observe in the photos below, the old school mild steel wood screws received a coat of beeswax. This was accomplished by melting a block of wax in a small tin containing these traditional fasteners. The idea with this is that the wax should reduce the effort required to seat the screws and at the same time providing a layer that would resist future corrosion.

The screws were then seated after the surfaces that is supposed to be able to slide ever so slightly with the changes in ambient humidity over the years, were rubbed with beeswax. Whether this is useful (or possibly the opposite) I do not know, but I tried it anyway. Therefore I would urge you to ask someone who knows before following suite. Maybe some of our more experienced and properly trained cadres could assist in the matter.

Seeing that the plan was to fix the third and final layer using panel pins I had to fashion a custom punch to seat the nails below the surface of the wood. A short section of a round file which I picked up somewhere served perfectly well for this purpose. It was shaped carefully (not to take the temper out of the hardened steel) on a bench grinder to fit the head of the panel pin to a T. There are some picks further down to show the business end of my new redneck punch.

As is so common here in Africa, I also had to modify the panel pins somewhat to serve my purpose. In order to allow layer one and two to be able to move relative to each other, these panel pins had to stop short of layer one. In other words they should only fix layer three to the cross members of layer two. That was accomplished by snipping off the required amount, followed by resharpening on the bench grinder.

The two Kershout strips were fitted first, as they needed to be absolutely spot on given the fact that they mirror the spindles of the so-called Windsor leg. Kershout seems to enjoy spending time off  the Janka hardness charts (literally and figuratively) so it hard to say where it rates in comparison to better known species, but let’s just say it tends to take exception when a nail wants to upset it’s feng shui. For that reason I had to drill shank holes for each panel pin, which allowed the shank through and only caught the slightly wider head. This way the panel pins were more inclined to retain it’s linear configuration and the Kershout refrained from flexing it’s muscles.

As discussed in earlier posts, the third layer only needs to add another 8 mm for the trapezoid leg to reach it’s intended thickness of 44 mm. Therefore I decided to challenge my new bandsaw with fairly wide re-sawing in very hard Witpeer. Of course that also allowed me to introduce visual interest by means of a book-matched arrangement of the various pieces.

In order to do that I needed one flat, square and twist-free face side and face edge.

The resultant 8 mm stock were then fitted from the centre of the leg towards the outside. I again used the hitherto unproven technique of rubbing beeswax on the surfaces that is supposed to be able to slide.

I used a no. 78 and a no. 10 Stanley rabbet plane to cut the rabbets that hides the space allowed for movement.

The book-matched pattern is already vaguely apparent.

All the sides were then worked flush.

By hand plane along the grain …

… and by track saw followed by hand plane across the grain.

The small cavities created by seating the panel pins below the surface of the wood were filled with a concoction conjured up by mixing very fine wood dust (of the same wood of course) and epoxy.

Once the elixir had time to set I did a preliminary round of surface preparation.

As you can see the book-matched pattern is starting to emerge nicely. Once it receives oil it should be positively stunning.

Even the opposite side is starting to display a certain je ne sais quoi.

The edges were then treated to some hand beading to hide the laminations.

As you can see it worked a charm.

In our next instalment we will move on to laminating the various boards that was chosen (many moons ago) for the top.

Spoon carving workshop in Wales

Steve Tomlin Crafts - Mon, 05/22/2017 - 4:45am
Spoon carving starts with a log and continues with sharp tools and concentration. Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

relaxing weekend.......

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 05/22/2017 - 12:29am
I slowed down a lot, for me anyways, this weekend. I still have a lot of things on my A+ list to get done but I am not going to obsess about checking every item off in one day. I only checked one thing off the list today and played with a few others but that was it. I am going to tic off a lot of the little things and the big ones will have to wait. I have a lot of maintenance things I need to attend to and cross off the list before the bookcase or stand up desk gets made.

took it apart to try and salvage it

part of a chinese oak stair tread
The top and bottom has a thick veneer of oak cross banded in the middle with another wood (?). I got it at Home Depot 3-4 years ago and I still have a few pieces kicking around in the shop.

X marks the high corners
the other side isn't twisted
But it does have a hump in the middle. I was going to try and salvage this but after seeing this, it is toast. I'll have to make another one of these quick because I don't have a holder for the coarsest diamond stone.

miter box saw
The bottom edge of the spine was ragged out a bit. It drew blood when I ran my finger tip along it. I filed this going straight across the spine on a diagonal trying to avoid filing the whole width. I just wanted to file the bottom edge corner.

wasn't 100% successful with that
This side of the spine was worse than the other side.

the spine bottom will ride on top of these
the arm's pivot circle
This is scored some in a couple of spots around the diameter. I lightly sanded it with a wooden block and 320 grit sandpaper just to remove the burrs.

the table pivot point
I don't know if there was any grease on this because Phil did an awesome job of rehabbing this. The pivot point on my 358 was packed with grease. This diameter has signs of scoring too but I don't know if there is any binding yet. I haven't attached the arm yet to check that out.

the legs don't lie flat
they don't lay flat on all four points
I can get 3 points down with this one up. If I put this one down, two points are off the bench. I'll have to take these off and even them up somehow.

made a Wally World run
The stripper is for wood and metal and it is the first time I've seen one come in a rattle can. The primer and gloss black are for the #2 plane body. The Red 'N' Tacky I've never heard of. I was looking for a smaller tube of grease but the selection at Wally World was a bit on the lean side. I picked this one because it says on the tube that it is good for sliding parts. I'll be using this grease on the miter box pivot point.

the bottom of the spine
This is the part of the spine that rides on the round bearings at the top of the saw posts. It looks like it hasn't been an entirely smooth ride for this saw. The scallops came from my 358 miter box and not this one. I can file them flattish but it is going to take a while. Not something I want to do today so I'll do a little each day until I get it done.

the one thing I checked off the A+ list
My main focus today was working on the kitchen. Like I did last weekend, I did a little on the kitchen, took a break, did a little bit in the shop, and started the cycle all over again.

I'm going to put a piece of metal in this pie shaped indentation to strengthen it. I don't want to rely solely on the epoxy holding this together.

first step is to make a rubbing of the metal piece

step 2 - glue it to the donor
step 3 - file the outline
step 4 - the filing will guide the cutoff wheel
roughly done

This thing was hot when I got done. How do I know this? Because I'm the idiot who tried to pick it up right after I got done cutting it out. I threw it in some water to cool it down so I could handle it.

wee bit too fat
I thought that this was going to fit off the dremel. I had cut the rubbing out on the inside of the lines but it wasn't enough.

a little filing and checking batted next
pretty good fit
This part of the insert doesn't touch on anything. It is out in the air so I don't have to worry about it effecting the fit.

ready to epoxy in place
I sanded the side of the insert being epoxied and cleaned it with mineral spirits before I did that.

backside of the coarsest diamond stone
I'm using this because it is flat and convenient. I don't need the insert ending up in a vee either in or out.

cooking until tomorrow
I have gotten a few comments about trying synthetic steel wool and I finally got some. I got a two pack of 4-0 and I'll compare it to my metal 4-0 steel wool.

used it on this end
I didn't get a lot of feed back from using this. This seemed to be gliding over the wood without 'sanding'. And it still felt rough after I went over the whole end. The pad didn't show hardly any wear or use and there wasn't any shellac flour neither.

the real stuff
I could not only feel the steel wool cutting, I could see it to. This made a lot of shellac flour and the surface was considerably smoother to the touch than the white stuff. The steel wool pad looks used also.

tried it on the long grain edge
against steel wool on the other long edge edge
The synthetic stuff was a bit better on this test. It didn't generate any shellac flour but there was a hint of this being a bit smoother.  I still give the edge to the real stuff. It was smoother to the touch and there was shellac flour to see.

results weren't any better on the poplar
the winner is the real stuff
The 4-0 real steel wool is a much better performer than the synthetic stuff.  This cuts, smooths and although it leaves tiny metal bits behind, I'll continue to use it. Using a vacuum cleaner afterwards is a part of using it.

the loser
This is good idea but it didn't perform anywhere near as well as the metal steel wool does. It didn't generate any dust nor did it seem to knock down and smooth the shellac. I was a bit disappointed in it but maybe the 4-0 is too fine for sanding inbetween coats on the shellac. It doesn't matter because I'll keep on using the metal stuff.

four coats of 1 lb cut on the certificate frame
4 coats on the end tops too
The clock fits with 1 1/8" to spare. It looks funny having the clock up that high so this may change. But my wife is happy with the plate rail and that is all that matters to me.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many people have won the Grand Slam in golf?
answer - Bobby Jones did it 1930 (before the Masters) Tiger Woods held all four titles in a row but not in the same calendar year

Nuts and saddles

Finely Strung - Sun, 05/21/2017 - 8:43am

Stewart-MacDonald has been sending me emails recently about a device which allows guitar makers to adjust the height of a guitar nut or saddle while keeping the underside both square and straight (item # 4047 in the StewMac catalogue). Here’s a picture.

I thought that this was rather a good idea.  Although it’s not especially difficult to adjust a nut or a saddle by hand with a file, it’s a tedious job and often takes a while. And the reviews on the StewMac website were positive, saying how quick and accurate the device was.

The drawback is that it’s quite expensive.  By the time I’d paid  shipping and import duty, buying one would probably cost around  $200.   So, I decided to make one for myself.

The body is a length of aluminium bar, 15mm x 30mm, drilled at each end to take an axle that carries miniature ball bearings.

Used with a sheet of P280 sandpaper on a flat surface, it worked quickly and accurately.

As I hope you will be able to see from the photographs, it’s not difficult to make, although you will need access to a drill press and a small lathe. The materials needed (aluminium bar and four miniature ball bearings) are easily available and cheap.

Mine took a bit longer to construct than it should have done because I drilled the holes for the axles too low, which meant that the body of the device ended up too far above the sanding surface. So I had to bush the holes and re-drill. If you’re making one, I’d recommend positioning the axle to give a gap of no more than 2mm between the bottom of the device and the sanding surface.

heat wave broke.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 05/21/2017 - 3:07am
It was noticeably cooler today. Sunny and breezy, but no heat and no humidity.  The temp was higher than what the forecaster predicted though. They said 67F/20C as their high and my porch thermometer read 77.4F/25C at 1800. Still much better then temps in 90's.

I didn't sleep very well last night. The peepers failed open at 0130 and I after an hour of trying to fall back to sleep, I got up. I wasn't going to work OT today but it was way too early to be in the shop so I went to work. I planned on only doing 3 hours but I did 6. We were taught a new way to scan certain documents into the system and today was my first time doing them solo. I got into a rhythm with it and when I came up for air I had already put in over 5 hours. I stayed to round it out to 6 and left then.

had to sweep the deck
Besides having shavings all over the shop, I also have crap spread out on every single horizontal surface. There is so much crap in built up piles that I can't find anything. The shavings I can walk on and ignore but the piles I can't. This is just the tip of the iceberg and I have unseen problems that are below the waterline.

What brought out the cleaning bug was me looking for something buried somewhere in the shop. As I was looking for that, I realized that I have way too many irons in the fire. I stopped counting after 7 and I could have probably gotten into double digits on just my immediate to do list. Granted some are quickies like setting the shavings on the 5 1/2, but picking the first one to do was giving me a headache.

Priority #1 I decided was me taking a day of rest. Getting up 4 hours before oh dark thirty was catching up to me and it wasn't even lunchtime yet. First batter was doing a leisurely sweep down of the shop which took until the early afternoon.

I boxed up the #2 and set it aside for now. Most of it is done but what is left will eat up a lot of calories and time. I have to strip and paint the plane body and I'm thinking of refinishing the tote and knob also. I've done everything else to the plane and I might as well do that to complete it.

the cause
These are the 14" keyboard slides and I was looking for the 12" ones. Like an idiot I was going to go to Lowes and buy some pine to make a second stand up desk for me for work. I figured I could squeeze it in with no problems.  I came to my senses when I couldn't find the 12" glides. I'll clean what is on my plate first and then start that.

WTF is it?
Have you ever made something and saved it only to find it later? When you see it you give it your best goofiest look but have absolutely no clue as to what it is, what it was used for, or why you made it? A specialized shooting board? Part A of the better mouse trap? A salami slicer and dicer?

this didn't help
This is probably meant to be held in a vise. I thought I would be aha moment after seeing this but it is still a mystery to me. No light bulbs coming on and I have no memory of this at all. Nada, zippo, zilch, all I see is the big black abyss of nothingness.

last thing I did and found
I was cleaning the table off by the bandsaw and the 12" glides were buried there. I'll leave them on the workbench until I use them.

largest Ashley Iles chisels
I added these back to the list. I did not sharpen these correctly the last time I did them. I have shiny bevels with flats on the very edge.  I would bet a kidney that I didn't check for a burr when I sharpened them. The 2" one I would like to have to use needs the most work. I'll be doing these on the 80 grit runway.  Then I will have to find a new home for  them. With them being in a box I tend to forget about them. And the box is usually buried somewhere and hidden from view.

ditto with the Buck Bros
I got these paring chisels when I first started out buying woodworking tools in the late 70's. The same story applies here as the Ashley Iles. Maybe I can combine the two together in one box?

31 year old delta 14" bandsaw insert
failed the bounce test with Mr Concrete floor a long time ago
This has been broken for over ten years and I've been limping along with it. Every once in a while I search the web for one and come up dry. There are plastic ones but I want another metal one like this. The plan is to use my west system epoxy  to glue it back together and see if I limp along for another 20 years with it.

had to make something today
I am using the big stone and stropping board holder to make this one.

the former one was here
I kept that one in the vise and ate up a lot of real estate on this corner of the sharpening bench. When I first made it I used in on the woodworking bench. I never bothered to make a new one when I made the sharpening bench.

ugly finger divot hole
I always clean my stones after every use. This isn't pretty but it does work. I also didn't run the two sides from the top to the bottom but left a space on both sides at the top.

just enough to get my finger underneath it

it's toast
It is twisted and rocking slightly even in the vise. Something that is not a good thing to have in a sharpening stone. I'll toss this and make another one tomorrow.

Grace saw nut screwdriver
This screwdriver fits the saw nuts on every saw I own but I had not checked it on the this miter box saw. I wasn't disappointed and I was able to take out all four nuts. The nuts will be getting a Bar Keeps bath later on.

easier to clean sans the handle
The plate is pretty clean but the spine has a lot of dings and sharp points on the edges along it's length on both sides. The saw was used and shows signs of some abuse but the tooth line is pristine almost. Maybe all the dings came from storage or banging around in a toolbox.

Along with doing the saw I will have to get some grease for the pivot on the miter box. It doesn't look like it had much grease in it as there is some scoring on both seats.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How much does the skeleton of an average 160 pound human weigh?
answer - about 30 pounds

Your Thoughts on Online SketchUp Training (and mine)

Bob Lang's ReadWatchDo - Sat, 05/20/2017 - 10:48am
In the almost 10 years that I’ve been teaching people how to 3D model with SketchUp, I’ve learned a lot about the many ways different people learn. Each of us is a little different in the way our brains absorb … Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

Springfield Antique Show

MVFlaim Furnituremaker - Sat, 05/20/2017 - 7:45am

Last Friday, my wife and I, went to Brimfield, Massachusetts for their antique show. This Friday we headed to Springfield, Ohio for their Extravaganza. Even though the amount of vendors attending is a third of who sets up at Brimfield (2000 vs 6000), I was hoping to find better deals as I usually don’t do too bad at the Extravaganza.


There are a lot of professional dealers at Springfield, however the majority of them are concentrated in the center of the fairgrounds. As you venture out onto the outskirts of the show, that is where you’ll find people just setting up tables to sell some of their junk. These are the places where I find the best deals. It’s always nice to visit the tables with a bunch of tools from tool collectors, but that’s not typically where the deals are.


On this table were a Stanley BedRock No 604 for $150 and a Stanley No 8 for $100. Not bad prices if you wanted to pay retail, but I’m always looking for a deal.


Occasionally you’ll find good deals at these tables. Here were a couple of Stanley planes and a Keen Kutter No 5. The two No 5’s were $15 and the Stanley No 4 was only $21. I passed up on these planes as I wasn’t feeling it for some reason. I only had $40 left in my pocket and still wanted to walk around and see what else was available before I spent all my cash, so I walked away.


I always love checking out old anvils even though I haven’t set up my blacksmith shop yet. The big boy anvil in the front was a mere $1000. Too rich for my blood.


After we walked around the fairgrounds for six hours, I came home with a few nice tools. Two Stanley miter boxes, two Stanley No 3’s and two Hartford Clamp Co clamps. The clamps are the most interesting thing I bought as after I researched them, they were primarily used for gluing up thin panels. The bars ride on both sides of the panel so the wood won’t bow while being clamped. I’m going to clean them up and see how well they work.


As far as deals, I believe I did better at Springfield than I did at Brimfield even though I spent a little bit more money. Now I need to go back to the bank and get some more cash for the Burlington Antique Show in Kentucky on Sunday.

There Are Old Mansions in the Northeast Too or So I’m Told.

The Furniture Record - Sat, 05/20/2017 - 7:19am

I have been told that I focus too much on southern plantations and that rich people have been building large houses in the northeast since the 17th century. And not just in Newport.

Back in October, I realized that the Yale Art Gallery exhibit of Rhode Island Furniture, Art and Industry in Early America: Rhode Island Furniture, 1650–1830, would be ending soon and I needed to make an effort to see it.

Searching around, I found cheap flight, a cheap hotel and a cheap rental car. Almost cheaper than staying home. Before I left, I finished my chores, the lawn, the laundry and the litter boxes. Early the next morning, I drove to the airport for a dawn flight to Boston.

This trip happened so quickly that I hadn’t really planned for much of anything. Yale was on the schedule for day two. It was day one. I was in a rental car and no clear idea of what I would be doing between 8:30 AM and bedtime. I pulled out the iPhone and started looking at some online resources.

I decided to visit Old Sturbridge Village in the afternoon. All I needed to do was find something fabulous en route. Three minutes later, I found a target and spent another two minutes trying to start the keyless car. I resolved that inconvenience set off for the Gore Place.

1804 to 1806, Governor/Senator Christopher Gore and his wife Rebecca built their mansion in Waltham, Mass for $24,000.  In 1827, Christopher dies. In 1834, Rebecca dies. Having no heirs, the estate is auctioned and runs through traditional series of owner that presided of the inevitable decline. In 1921, The Waltham Country Club purchased the estate. They build a golf course and tennis courts on the grounds and use the mansion as a clubhouse. The Great Depression hastened the bankruptcy and failure of the country club in 1935.

The buildings fall into disrepair and are scheduled to be torn down to make room for new housing. A group of Bostonians with a view toward preservation raised money to buy the estate and formed the Gore Place Society.

Like other auctioned estates, the furniture is scattered by the auction. The Gore Place Society is faced with repopulating the mansion with appropriate furniture. What they did was to acquire Boston built furniture for much of it and track down and return the actual pieces when available.

This server is in the mansion:


An unusual and handsome server.


The green acanthus leaf indicates it is a Boston piece. The diamond pattern is the Gore coat-of-arms indicating it was owned by the Gores.

This commode is of the estate:


Much nicer than George’s.


To remind you, this is George’s, not the Gores’.


This simple bed was the Gores.


Of Boston but not the Gores.


Neither Gore nor Boston but still nice.


And this little gem just fill a niche.

To see all the pictures I have, click HERE.




Handworks 2017, Day 1

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 05/20/2017 - 6:45am

I’m in Amana, Iowa this weekend for the Handworks 2017, and it’s a bit of a madhouse (but in a good way). It’s difficult to estimate the number of people, because the event is spread over five buildings in this historic German village, with hand tool makers, woodworking schools, timber framing, chairmakers, blacksmiths and more. I also haven’t gotten to see too many of the tools up close, because I’ve […]

The post Handworks 2017, Day 1 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Digital Woodworking Classes

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 05/20/2017 - 6:18am

Learning about CNCs at the Marc Adam’s School of Woodworking Furniture manufacturers and large cabinets shops have been using digital tools and CNCs for decades. But, for hobbyists and small to medium shops, digital woodworking is just now getting started. Being a new kind of woodworking, it’s certainly different. That means there are new things to learn. A few weeks ago, I taught two classes at the Marc Adams School […]

The post Digital Woodworking Classes appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

heat ↑ humidity →......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 05/20/2017 - 12:09am
This mini heat wave is supposed to go away on saturday. The temp today was supposed to top out at 89F/32C but today's temp beat yesterdays. At 1700 the porch thermometer was reading a very toasty 96.7F/36C but it doesn't feel as hot as it was yesterday. Maybe that is because I sucked it up and put the A/C units in the windows yesterday after work. Saturday the temp is forecasted to be 65F/18C. That makes for a 30 degree differential but I'll wait and see what it actually gets up or down to.

packing from the miter saw
I stuffed all of this back into the box and then stowed it in the boneyard. I was going to toss it all but this is some good packing stuff to have. I may need to ship the walnut bookcase to my daughter down in NC. This was step #2 tonight. I had to do this in order to get to my workbench.

this was job #1 tonight
I knew that this was in the boneyard somewhere. Where exactly took me about 15 minutes to find. If I had started on the left side of the boneyard I would have found it right away. Instead I started on the right where I thought I had stashed it. There I had to move a lot of crap to see what was underneath and behind things.

On my lunch break I searched the WWW for a 2358 instruction manual and came up dry there but I came across a blog post I did in 2011 on doing the same thing for my 358 miter box. It's been 6 years since I got the 358 and got nowhere trying to breathe some life back into it. Bob, the Valley Woodworker, gave me a link to one on his famous tool blogs and the 2358 instruction manual is there.

Bob from Logan's cabinet shoppe made a new handle for the saw and sharpened it also. I only used it about 3-5 times and gave up on it. The 358 I have is worn out, missing a lot of parts, and it was too difficult trying to saw anything with it. The guy I got it from said it belonged to his father who was a carpenter who did rough and finish work.

a few rust blooms to sand away
For sitting idle for 6 years the saw is in good shape. This will clean up easily with some 320 sandpaper.

the posts fit on the saw
One nice thing about the 2358 miter box is that the miter box itself didn't change in any way with the model numbers. What changed was the size of the saw. This saw here is the largest one that Stanley offered up with the 2358 miter box. It is 28" long and 5" high. I am a hair shy of 4 7/8" under the spine so this saw hasn't been sharpened too many times.

saw guide buttons
I don't know the proper name for these but they are guides for the saw. On my 358 they barely project into the inside cavity. And of course they are something that you can't buy anymore so the saw flopped around in use.

2 degrees warmer in the shop today
I'm satisfied with the color
Tonight I put on the final application of the iron and tannic acid. Tomorrow I'll sand it and put one final coat of tannic acid on and let that dry. The shellac will follow that.

re did the flat on this side
When I stoned the leading edge, I changed the edge on this side. It is tapered, larger at the fore and thinning out to the far side. After I fixed that, I sharpened and honed the iron. Got a burr and maintained it right up to the 8K polishing stone.

why I fettle the chipbreaker this way
There is no light at all under the chipbreaker sighting inbetween it and the iron. The chipbreaker lays flat and even on the iron from one side to the other. With the leading edge polished, shavings should glide and slide right over it. The flat on the other side keeps any shavings from getting jammed between it and the iron. When I first started out planing, cleaning out the hump underneath the chipbreaker was a constant chore for me. Now I rarely get a shaving here and if I do, I redo the flat on the back of the chipbreaker and the iron.

I was thinking of a plane till at lunch today
These on the planes I want to keep in the plane till. I got these laid out roughly in the way I think they should be to get a rough measurement. The #8 gives the minimum OA height and the herd corralled will give a rough width.
just planes
I didn't include the molding planes nor the LV rabbet, and the Record 043 and 405. The router planes are absent also along with the newly purchased side rabbet planes. My initial thoughts are to keep the bench planes separate in a top cabinet and the other planes (which are all in boxes) in a cabinet under the bench planes. I plan on making a second plane till just to hold my wooden molding planes.

it's going to be a big cabinet
There is no allowance here for separators between the planes. I think just looking at the number of planes that this could easily morph out to 46-48". Satisfied that urge and it gives a starting point to think about.

#2 lever cap
I tried sanding first with 100 and then 320 grit and got the same result. Only the leading edge was getting shiny and clean. The rest of the lever cap was getting a pebbled look and feel. I stopped here and I'll come back to this tomorrow.

it's a Disston saw
I wonder why Stanley never got into the saw making business.They had there hands in so many different things and I'm surprised they hadn't bought a saw company out to make their own saws.

almost cleaned up
I want to clean and polish the saw plate and the spine on this saw.  However it is a very messy job and I'll do it outside so I can leave the mess there.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who holds the record for the longest senatorial filibuster?
answer - Senator Strom Thurmond does, doing it for 24 hours, 18 minutes in 1957

birds, not woodworking. again.

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Fri, 05/19/2017 - 9:57am

Even home-school kids have field trips, and I tagged along on one today to a place called Manomet – https://www.manomet.org/ to see a presentation about banding migrant landbirds. The winds finally shifted about 2 days ago, so now the southwest winds are bringing warblers up to New England.

Trevor Lloyd Evans and Maina Handmaker were our hosts, and gave us a lot of their time & attention. Here’s some of the birds we saw up close, as they were ready to be released, after having been weighed, measured, and recorded…

well, this first one wasn’t captured – it’s a flyover during our intro – an osprey.

this one I shot a lot, because I had never seen one before – a mourning warbler (Geothlypis philadelphia)

Maina & one of the kids releasing a female American redstart (Setophaga ruticilla)

This might be that redstart, or a young male we saw after..

Showing some of the kids how to tell the age of this catbird, based on feather color…

Northern waterthrush (Parkesia noveboracensis)

female magnolia warbler (Setophaga magnolia)

Least flycatcher (Empidonax minimus) – I could never ID this bird beyond “flycatcher” –

Rose got to let this one fly…

Right near the end of our visit, we got to see this chestnut-sided warbler (Setophaga pensylvanica)


And one whose name makes some sense – the common yellowthroat (Geothlypis trichas)

Trevor and Manomet’s mascot, the gray catbird (Dumetella carolinensis)

thanks to all for making this trip possible. I had more fun than I could stand.

Book Giveaway: Building Boxes

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 05/19/2017 - 6:50am
Building Boxes

I recently completed a box project that I did as practice for hand-cutting dovetails (a new skill for me that I plan to use for a furniture build in the not too distant future). Personally I like to feel like I’m making something when I practice instead of just cutting and recutting on a practice board (though I did do a little bit of that as well before starting my box). But […]

The post Book Giveaway: Building Boxes appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

hot,humid, and sticky..........

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 05/19/2017 - 1:22am
Still spring but this is not the first day that has been hot and humid. My porch thermometer read 92.3F/33C at 1545. Needless to say it was a bit toasty. This is the kind of weather I hate and I hate it with a passion bordering on fanaticism. It's still spring with summer a month away. Is this a portent of things to come?

wednesdays' night work
I tried to clean the adjuster with several different things -from orange cleaner to WD40 - and nothing was removing the black crud from it. I took the both of these upstairs and while I watched a bit of the boob tube, I sanded these to this.

knurling is still dirty
This I couldn't sand without destroying the knurling. Being dirty like this distracts from the rest of the shiny brass.

plane parts ready to depart the citrus bath
everything goes in the strainer
After losing two washers down the drain from past baths, I don't take anymore chances.  This is mostly for the small parts - screws, studs, etc - so they don't get washed away being rinsed off.

back to the adjuster
I mixed up a paste of Bar Keeps and water and I started to scrub the dirty knurling.

15 sweaty minutes later
It took 3 toothbrushes before I got the center slot between the knurling clean and down to somewhat shiny brass.  I also used the paste on the barrel nuts.

maybe the last ebonizing application
I like the color of this and if it looks as good tomorrow as it does now, I'll call it done. I have enough of the iron solution left for 4-5 coats if need be. This ebonizing is pretty good for poplar so far.

it's like a box of chocolates to quote Forrest Gump
it has a slight hollow
The first 1/8+" behind the bottom of the bevel is flat so this isn't that terrible.

5 minutes later it is flat enough to start on the bevel
bevel rough shaped
This is as far as I'm taking this tonight. I'll finish it tomorrow or this weekend. This heat sucks the desire to work wood right out of my bone marrow, but the cellar is at a rather cool 72F/22C. I'm still sweating and I'm starting to turn into a raging nut job. Have I told you that I hate this weather?

the chipbreaker
I stone the leading of the chipbreaker. I started on my coarsest diamond stone but there were two hollow spots. A couple of minutes on the 80 grit runway and the hollow spots were no more.

I concentrate on the very edge
consistent scratch pattern from the R to L and no hollows
coarse diamond stone next
This is it for the chipbreaker and I don't stone all the way up to the 8K one. I will strop it when I do the iron.

stoned a flat on this side
leading edge is shiny without any stropping
oiled up the plane parts - no more playing with the #2 tonight
it's not a breadbox
Stanley 2358  broken down for shipping
These parts are missing from my 2358 which is a lot older than this one. The silvery one on the left locks the saw in the up direction. The right ones are used as a depth stop for doing end rabbets or dadoes.

these parts are seldom seen on  miter boxes for sale

stock holder
This holds the stock up against the fence flat or at an angle for doing crown molding.

I put this in place like this for now
The circled 12 and 8 are what the angles are for a 12 or 8 sided frame etc.

 I need to look these up
I can't remember how these go in. On my 2358 the front and back ones aren't interchangeable. With the exception of the stud on the front one, they look exactly the same. Now I have to put this together and find where I hid my saw for my old 2358. The seller did an incredible job of rehabbing this miter box. I paid $179 for it (S/H included) and I think I got one hell of a bargain for my $$$$.

looks like an ordinary light switch cover

LED lights at the bottom
In the pic above, at the bottom left of the cover there is a photocell. It turns the light on when it gets dark and off during the day.

gets the power off the two silver terminals
My wife got these from Amazon and she thinks they are called Snap lights.  She put one in the hallway between the bedrooms, one at the back door, and once the kitchen is done, one is going on the counter top. I can navigate to the head at night without tripping and killing myself with the light this puts out.

This is it. I could have done more but I dislike sweating and working in this weather. I'll just have to slow down and take it easy until this weather goes south.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the significance of latitude 39° 43' in American history?
answer - it's the Mason-Dixon line

Secrets to Long Miter Joints

Bob Lang's ReadWatchDo - Thu, 05/18/2017 - 4:52pm
The average woodworker doesn’t always use the best looking method to join two pieces of wood – he or she is happy just to get the face frame stuck to the cabinet side. That’s why these folks are “average”. The … Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

Hardware Storage: Drink More Tea

The Literary Workshop Blog - Thu, 05/18/2017 - 3:59pm

Today was Workbench-Organization-Day.  It’s amazing how cluttered my workbench can get over a few months.  It took me a couple hours to toss all those forgotten scraps into the firewood pile, organize the pieces of When-I-Get-around-to-It projects, and–of course–collect and putting away stray hardware.

You know how it goes.  Spare nails, screws, nuts, and bolts accumulate at an an alarming rate in the corners of workshops.  Sometimes I think they breed there.  I have a couple small dishes that I keep on my workbench for collecting these bits of hardware when I find them, but when the dishes start to overflow, it’s time to actually put things away.

I’ve tried a few different hardware-storage systems.  Well, “system” might be too strong a word.  Like most “handy” guys, I have nails, hinges, and L-brackets in some random coffee cans and jars, but little by little, I’m converting to a simple modular-storage system.  It’s taken me a while to make the conversion, though, because I need to drink more tea.


Yes, I use the leftover tins from Twinings loose-leaf tea for storing hardware.  They come in two convenient sizes, and the lids are made such that boxes of the same size will neatly stack on top of one another.  Unlike mason jars or coffee cans, these rectangular containers can be packed next to each other in a drawer with almost no wasted space between them.  And they’re totally flexible.  Changing the contents is as easy as writing a new label.

The only downside is that, unlike glass or plastic, I can’t see what’s inside each one unless I open it.  But I’ve cracked or broken enough glass jars and plastic containers that I’ll gladly put up with limited visibility.  I usually just dump the entire contents onto my bench, pick out what I need, and then hold the box up to the edge of the bench while I sweep the rest of the hardware back into it.  You can’t do that with a round jar.

I’m normally a coffee drinker, so it’s taken me some time to replace most of my mason jars and coffee cans with tea tins.  I still have several to go.

So pour me a cuppa tea, guv’nor!  I’ve got more hardware to put away.

Tagged: box, hardware, hardware storage, storage, tea, tea tin, Twinings

The Silly Side of Chad Stanton – Host of I Can Do That!

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 05/18/2017 - 8:30am

Look for new videos from Popular Woodworking every Tuesday and Thursday. We’ll post videos about what we’re up to around the shop, teaching videos from some of our favorite friends and some fun stuff from the woodworking world. Many of the viewers of our I Can Do That! videos know host Chad Stanton from his Big Chopperoo videos and wonder why he’s not dancing on I Can Do That. Trust us, […]

The post The Silly Side of Chad Stanton – Host of I Can Do That! appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Cutting Lamb’s Tongues

Highland Woodworking - Thu, 05/18/2017 - 7:00am

I’m building a pencil post bed for our master bedroom. The four posts, cut from curly maple, were chamfered to a tapered octagonal shape, first on the table saw and then with a 45° chamfer bit using a jig that allowed me to use a handheld router. The router created a nice rounded transition at the point where the chamfers meet the square bottoms of the posts. That would have looked fine as it was, but I decided to add a traditional bit of decorative detail in the form of lamb’s tongues. Lamb’s tongues are, in effect, stops at the end of a chamfer, followed by an ogee shape.

Completed lamb’s tongues

My bed posts are 2-3/4 X 2-3/4″ at the bottom, tapering to 1-1/2″ wide at the top. At the transition point, the chamfers are 7/8″ wide.

The transition left by the chamfer bit

I made a wooden template in the shape of an ogee based on 7/8″ intersecting arcs.

The template

I drew lines marking the location of the stops at the end of the transitions and the baselines that extended out from the edge of the chamfers, then marked the shape of the lamb’s tongue on both sides of the leg.

Marked up leg ready to cut

I found that some adaptation was needed from one chamfer to another, since the width of the chamfers sometimes varied slightly.

Once marked, I made a vertical saw cut at the stop line with a Veritas 14 ppi crosscut saw, being careful not to overcut the baselines. Then, using a Shenandoah Tool Works 1 lb. mallet and a sharp 3/4″ bench chisel, I cut away the waste between the chamfer and the stop with the chisel bevel down.

Chopping the waste from the chamfer

I smoothed the chamfer up to the stop with the chisel held flat and bevel up and followed this with a Lie-Nielsen chisel plane and a card scraper to finish the surface. The goal is to get a sharply-defined stop at the edge of the ogee.

I then cut the ogees carefully by wasting away most of the wood with the mallet and chisel, again being careful not to overcut the line.

Chopping the waste from the lamb’s tongue

I followed this with a #9 and #13 Auriou rasp, then sanded the surface to 180 grit to eliminate any marks from the rasps. The result: a nice traditional detail to dress up my bed posts.

Norm Reid is a woodworker, writer, and woodworking instructor living in the Blue Ridge Mountains with his wife, a woodshop full of power and hand tools and four cats who think they are cabinetmaker’s assistants. He is the author of the forthcoming book Choosing and Using Handplanes. He can be contacted at nreid@fcc.net.

The post Cutting Lamb’s Tongues appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking


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