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The Latest Adventure

Doug Berch - 2 hours 47 min ago

Resawing wood for dulcimers

Just saying hello.

I had back surgery two weeks ago and recovery is going well. I now have two non-adjustable truss rods and some other hardware supporting my lower back.

I’m taking it easy, catching up on reading, watching some series and movies I would normally not have time for, gently exercising and occasionally feeling bored. I’m also reading a lot about lutherie and doing thought experiments about new designs, methods of work, and possibly some new instruments to make.

It will probably be two months or so before I can begin to do some work in the shop. Before surgery I did some of the rough work to prepare for the time I’ll be back at the bench again. In the photograph above is cherry, walnut, and curly ash resawn for some future dulcimers.

Full recovery will take up to a year but if all goes as planned I’ll able to work longer hours making dulcimers than I have for about 5 years. I look forward to that time! I love my job!

Doug Berch - Dulcimer Maker And Musician

Categories: Luthiery

Carved arcading

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - 3 hours 15 min ago

I spent the weekend at the Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking, teaching 13 students to carve oak patterns…but I forgot my camera. One design I hoped to include, but ran out of time for, is this “nulling” or arcading pattern. It’s very common, there’s lots of variations on it. This is my recent version, in walnut instead of oak. This example is only about 3 1/2″ between the bottom and top margin.

Here’s how I carved a section of it today, after unpacking. This pattern has no free-hand aspect of it, very different from my usual work. All the elements are struck first with an awl, square and marking gauge. Spacing is marked off with a ruler and compass/dividers. Once I know the spacing (that’s some trial & error, based on the size of your stock, and the tools available) – I strike the chisel work to define the spaces between the arches.

Then I use my #7, 3/4″ wide gouge to strike the tops of the arches and the peaked leaf that falls behind them. 3 strikes of the gouge outline the tops of the arches. There’s a marking gauge line at the top & bottom of these, so they all line up properly.

This leaf tip that fits behind them starts about 1/2 way up one side of the arch, and hits a centerline struck through the chiseled portion.

Once the outlines are struck, I use the chisel with its bevel down to chop these sections. Sometimes I have to go back & forth between the vertical strikes and the beveled ones to get the chip out.

Then comes some background removal. I use the #7 to chop behind its original strikes.

Then a #5, about 1/2″ wide to smooth off this background. It leans down from the top margin to the arches/leaves.

Then I hollow the leaves with the #7.  Makes them look like they fall behind the arches a bit.

Now to hollow the arches. I start with a narrow, deeply-curved gouge. (old, no before they were numbered. It’s between a #8 & #9.) Two strikes  define the bottom of the hollow. Previously I struck inner margins for this hollow.

I chop right behind this to remove a chip. This will help protect the bottom solid bit when I finish hollowing.

Now a larger gouge hollows out the whole thing. This takes a few cuts. I don’t go to the full depth in one go. In the end, I want this tool to hollow all the way to the outlines I struck.

Here is the pattern after the shaping. But it looks pretty blank…

Gotta fill all the blank spaces. Start with a small #7 to chop details in the leaves.

A straight chisel to highlight the peaked bits.

A large gouge just strikes an incised line around the top of the arches. A punch fills in other spaces.

This really narrow gouge chops little patterns inside the hollows.

 

I always like to see what they look like after applying some linseed oil –

 

(I’ve 

I’ve heard it called “nulling” but my copy of Cyril Harris’ Illustrated Dictionary of Historic Architecture is out in the shop. That’s where I would check the name. Maybe I’ll remember tomorrow.

Inlay accoutrements

NCW Woodworking Guild - 4 hours 35 min ago

At January’s meeting, we discussed and looked at examples of inlay material that included mother of pearl, abalone, brass, reconstituted stone, and some of the equipment choices available.  Because we managed only a little time working on the prepared inlay purchased from DePaule Supply, we will spend our time at this month’s meeting (February) completing it and learning how to cut our own inlays out of mother of pearl. Please join us; the fun’s just beginning.

Here are some photos from January’s meeting:

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Different types of inlay materials displayed

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A variety of inlay equipment including aquarium pumps.

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Mother of pearl samples

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Prepping a premade inlay-within-an-inlay

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Here, the outline of the inlay is scribed into ebony and highlighted with chalk.

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My favorite tool: Stewart-McDonald’s new lighted plunge-router base for Dremels.

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Closeup of excavation to accommodate the inlay

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It is easy to achieve accuracy with this new router base.

New in Store: Lost Art Press Chore Coat

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - 9 hours 10 min ago

chore_coat_hang_tag_IMG_1314

You can now place a pre-production order for our chore coat via this link. The coat is $185, which includes domestic shipping.

Before you order a coat, please follow these simple instructions for determining the best size for you. We have enough material for about 300 coats and will place our order with the manufacturer based on the orders we receive. Stitching is supposed to begin in March, and we will ship out the coats as soon as they arrive in our warehouse.

Offering these chore coats is a significant gamble. The profit margins are low because we wanted this coat to be as affordable as possible. And we strove to make our coat a classic – nicely tailored and as well made as our books.

We understand book manufacturing, which is dang tricky. But we’re still learning a lot about clothing manufacturing, which seems even trickier.

So we might completely fail here. But at least John and I will get some nice coats, and we’ll have lots of gorgeous cotton fabric we can use as animal bedding.

— Christopher Schwarz

Categories: Hand Tools

North Bennet Street School and videos

Tico Vogt - 10 hours 25 min ago

On Tuesday February 20th I will be presenting my wares at the historic North Bennet Street School from around 11:30-2:30.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here are some new videos. The first is about a small Cherry box with drawers that I recently repaired after it took a fall and cracked open the miter joints of the top frame.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This one is about Drawer Resisters that I introduced several years ago.

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This one is about adjusting the Parallel Guide Strip and fences on the Vogt Shooting Board.

 

 

WW18thC 2018 – Rediscovering Roubo

The Barn on White Run - 11 hours 17 min ago

The first of my two WW18thC presentations was “Roubo Rediscovered – Merging 1760s Paris with the 21st Century” in which I recounted the nuggets gleaned from The Roubo Translation Project and how I have incorporated them into my current work practices.  Not too surprisingly this is a topic on which I could speak and demonstrate literally for days, but I packed as much as I could in 90 minutes.

I began as almost always within this framework by giving my benches-and-holdfast sermon,

followed by demonstrations of Roubo’s veneer sawing bench with some audience participation,

winding-sticks-on-stilts,

the coopering cradle, a vital clamping component in the world of serpentine and bombe’ furniture,

panel clamping jigs,

mobile bench-top press, this one made by Oldwolf (can you say Moxon vise?),

and finally ripple molding cutter my friend and collaborator JohnH.

Each of these items will be addressed individually in coming blog posts.  The overal; topic of Roubo’s Workshop is a huge one and I am outlining an extensive video series to explore it in depth (more about that later this week).

My thanks to JohnR for pictures of this presentation.  I would have taken them myself but I was busy at the time.

Moved Out!

Paul Sellers - 13 hours 51 min ago

A little out of sequence with my blog but we put together a video saying goodbye to all the friends we made at the Sylva Wood Centre in Long Wittenham. It was of course with many mixed feelings that we packed our bags but Izzy and Ellie put together a wonderful spread for lunch on […]

Read the full post Moved Out! on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Miles's toolbox penultimate part........

Accidental Woodworker - 16 hours 6 min ago
Tomorrow will be the last part to Miles's toolbox for a good while. I don't have everything I want but I have 95% of it easily. Since my grandson just had his first birthday two months ago, I think I'm safe if I take my time getting what is left to get. So far I haven't had any surprises with something I don't have. I kind of know what is left to get but Miles wouldn't be too put out if he had to use what is here now.

This update will be another lump job like the previous one. It is mostly ancillary tools and do-dads that make the road less bumpy.

sharpening stuff is a bit on the lean side
I made this strop when I made one for me. The LN honing guide was a contribution from Ken Hatch. It has the guides for chisels from 1/8" on up to #8 plane irons (2 5/8"?). I haven't decided on what to get him for stones yet. I am leaning in the direction of diamond stones and a 8K japanese water stone for polishing like I use. I wouldn't have room for that in the toolbox so I'll have to make a till to stow it all in.

Having sharp tools is very important and I want to impress this on Miles. He'll be young enough that it will probably become second nature with him.

nailing stuff
The nail puller on the left works great on brads and small nails. I have used mine pulling 10 penny finish nails without any problems. The box has 3 nail sets and a center punch. I made the box because I dislike tools rattling around and banging against each other.

screwdriver sets
The left brown ones are square drives - #2, #1, and #0. The right ones are a standard set of flat and philip head drivers. I didn't bother with power bits because he isn't getting any powered tools from me.

hand power required

The 1/2" breast drill (in the box) will be rehabbed and given to Miles. I had bought him a set of auger bits but I returned them. Out of eight bits, 7 of them had no threads on the lead screw. Useless, so back they went. I want to see the next set before I buy another. Undecided on getting him a small eggbeater drill. I saw one on the hyperkitten site and I didn't get it like an idiot.

banging stuff
The mallet is mine and I will get one for Miles too. What kid that age doesn't like to beat and bang on things. The 8oz hammer was mine. The first handle had broken and I bought a new hammer (saved the head) because I didn't know how to replace a handle back then. Now I do and it belongs to Miles.

chisels
I got this Ashley Iles chisel set from the Best of Things. It is a basic set and it came with the chisel roll. I snagged the big AI chisel from SawMillCreek. I got him a 1/4" pigsticker and this payday I'm getting him a 3/8". He'll be able to do most of his mortising work with those two. I will work prepping these chisels into the schedule somehow, somewhere.

basic shaping and finishing set
The file is for the card scrapers and the #80. And occasional end grain work too.

flattened and shined the sole, the retaining bar, and the thumbscrews

I will have to strip and paint this now
Hock burnisher
For rolling the hook on the blade in the #80 and the card scrapers.

Miles's Olsen coping saw
I like this saw but the handle comes off in use. That makes it a wee bit annoying.

this is what won't stay put
epoxy?
The friction fit in the handle is toast. The nut thing is hollow and screws on the threaded part on the saw frame right below it. I'll have to be careful when I epoxy it.

 the second drawer

last joint going together off the saw
This is what I shoot for but I don't mind trimming to fit neither. I did much better on these dovetails then I did on the first drawer. I had to do a lot trimming on them before I got the drawer to come together.

dry square ok
snug fit between the slides.
I should be able to get this drawer done tomorrow.

cleaned the bench
The drawer I just dovetailed got dirty from being on the bench. I rehabbed a lot of tools and a lot of that debris from it settled into the bench. I tried to clean with Krud Kutter but that didn't work too well. So I switched to planing it clean.

a plug for Autosol
This is what the bottom of these planes looked like after planing the workbench.

it's not twisted
  1. I rely on my bench to be flat. I can check it for twist but I don't have anything 8 foot long to check it for flat with. I used a lot of critical eyeballing along with copious scratching of the bald spot to check it for flat.

second dovetail job today
2nd one went together off the saw too
it's going where the second drawer is cooking away
it will be a tray for the top of the tool cabinet

this drawer is going away
All the crappola that is in this drawer will go in the tray.  I'll glue the tray together tomorrow and once it has set up, I'll glue it to the top of the cabinet.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the wheel on the game show 'Wheel of Fortune' is 8 and 1/2 feet in diameter?

David Barron Bench for Sale.

David Barron Furniture - Sun, 02/18/2018 - 6:49am

Here's a small but very sturdy little bench I made a while ago being sold by a friend of mine. It measures 42" wide x 24" deep x 37" high and would make an ideal bench for a small workshop or as a second bench. The base was made from 4" square pine (I don't remember painting it that colour!) and the top is 2 1/2" solid beech. The two bench stops can be used in the multiple holes and making it ideal for hand planning. The low stretcher and relatively high top means you can work sitting down with your knees under, great for chopping out dovetails.


The wooden leg vice has a massive 2 1/2" diameter wooden screw (also made by me) which is a pleasure to use. You can see the E Bay listing here.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Woodworking-Bench-by-David-Barron/202231890672?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649


Categories: Hand Tools

George’s Faux Drawers

360 WoodWorking - Sun, 02/18/2018 - 5:42am
George’s Faux Drawers

I’ve gotten back working on my version of George Washington’s partner’s desk. (I posted about scratch-stocks used on the legs and other inexpensive shop-made tools I’ve used.) Today, take a look at the setup and process to make George’s faux drawers, which are found on the ends of the original desk. In my version the back sections are also faux – if it were a true partner’s desk it would have functioning drawers on both sides.

Continue reading George’s Faux Drawers at 360 WoodWorking.

Moved In!

Paul Sellers - Sun, 02/18/2018 - 4:27am

This weekend we loaded up our belongings and moved onto the Science Park where our new and permanent home now is. It took over a year to complete the outside but the inside will take just a few more weeks. It was a mixed week of sad and happy emotions because we’ve made friends and […]

Read the full post Moved In! on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Miles's toolbox pt II........

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 02/18/2018 - 1:53am
Today's part is all about measuring and layout tools. I lumped these together because they go hand in hand. You use the two of  them together just as much as you would use them separately. This part of the herd is pretty much done but if something catches my eye I'll snag it for Miles.

square till
The toolbox, the saw, and square tills, all were painted with an exterior paint. After that I applied 4 coats of shellac. The shellac allows me to brush the boxes clean when they get covered with shop dust. If they were just painted, I would have to wash them to clean them.

good selection of squares
The big square on the left is 15" on the inside and 17" on the outside. The right one is 12" on the inside and 14" on the outside. The only quibble I have with them is they were made to be square on the inside only from the manufacturer.  The inside part of the wooden leg has a brass strip but not on the outside. However, I played with these until I got the outside to be square also. Just my opinion, but a square that only reads it on the inside is limited.

What I want to add to the square till
I've been looking for a 4" Starrett but I have only come across one in my hunting. I saw it on one of my tool sites but I lost that to someone else. Lee Valley has free shipping until Wednesday so I might buy their 4" combo square. A brand new Starrett is $74.

most of the layout/measuring stuff is in the top two tills

measuring stuff
I got him Paul Seller's marking knife of which I am a recent convert to. Other then the knife, everything else measures in imperial. The hook rule at the bottom left is imperial and metric. The black box at the top is a fractional reading caliper. I got one for him because I found mine to be a handy tool to have. It will also read decimal but I don't use that.

I got hooked on the Lee Valley sliding square and it gets a lot of use in my shop. I traded a 6" Delta jointer for it. I think I got the better part of that deal. The only thing I gave him that I don't use much myself anymore is the 24" centering rule.

6" rule
This size is handy and I use mine mostly in laying out dovetails.

3 marking gauges
I am hunting for a couple of more but Miles will be able to get by with these even if I don't add anymore to his herd. From the top to the bottom - Stanley 65 oval head, single pin marking gauge. The other two are the same style gauge - the middle one is a Stanley #72 and the bottom one is a Stanley #71.

both are single pin with dual beams
I gave him these because they can serve a dual purpose. Between the two of them they can hold 4 different settings. Or they can be used as a mortise gauge. One thing I've found with the Stanley marking gauges are the scales are dead nuts on.

the only difference
The Stanley #72 has a brass wear plate under the marking pins where the #71 doesn't.

he'll be getting one of these for sure
This marking gauge can be used to gauge a line on curved work. These have suddenly become scarcer than frog hair blankets. I used to see these offered up all the time when I didn't want one and now I can't remember the last time I saw one for sale.

3" mortise gauge
This is a Stanley #73 and I love the size of this mortise gauge. This is another gauge that I want to add to Miles's herd. This one is even scarcer then the Stanley round work gauge ( mine is marked Stanley but it has no model number).

has long length, sharp pins
If I can't find another one of these I will probably buy or give him one my mortise gauges. He will probably inherit this one.

the final part of the layout and measuring herd
Pencils and magic markers are usually overlooked but they are essential parts of a tool kit. I am not that anal to include them now but I can supply them when they are actually needed.

first drawer bottom installed
I glued it in the front groove with hide glue and screwed it to the back with 3 screws, no glue. I did this with a rabbet bit in my electric router. Plywood is too hard on plane irons. I still had to plane it to fit the groove and the slips.

#5 primed
I removed 99.99% of the japanning from the frog so I opted to prime it. I got the sole of the plane sanded to 80 grit but I still have to do the sides.

Grrrr
The previous owner of this saw fit to put a big back bevel on this iron. It looks like a knife edge and not a plane iron edge. It is almost a 1/16th of inch from the edge so I'll lose a lot grinding it off. I'm not sure that I'll be able to sharpen this as I have zero experience with a back bevels - ala 'ruler trick'. It is hard trying to flatten the back because of it.

another problem
The business end of the iron is flat but the back end is drunk. I'm pushing down there and the bevel is over a 1/8" off the plywood.

it's now a C bend
It was bent in a S shape at this end. I was able to kind of beat the S into a C but not flatten it. I'm not sure if the lever cap and chipbreaker will be able to flatten this out. I didn't road test it before I started rehabbing it so I don't know how or if it made shavings.

prepping the stock for the second drawer
I need to find a home for this
I have only used brown rouge on both wheels and they blacker than the edge of space. Why?

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a qubit in Quantum Computing is a two state unit of quantum information?

Correcting a New Saw

Paul Sellers - Sat, 02/17/2018 - 2:13pm

We posted this video yesterday just to help you see that it is simple to correct flawed output on new saws if the saw is resharpenablle which most push stroke back saws mad in the `uk are and most pulls stroke, Japanese-type saws are not. It takes me about 3-4 minutes to sharpen almost and […]

Read the full post Correcting a New Saw on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Processing Big Wood

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Sat, 02/17/2018 - 10:23am

I was by Lesley Caudle’s sawmill last week and observed his latest Alaskan sawmill setup in action.

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Lesley was our source for the workbench kit Chris and I used in Roubo Workbench: by Hand & Power. He is also the source for the materials for the Moravian workbench classes I teach. Lesley sells Roubo workbench kits and will ship them as well (lesley27011@yahoo.com).

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Lesley processes a lot of big logs that most mills can’t handle; the better ones become workbench tops and parts. The lesser quality logs will be sawn into railroad ties and pallet lumber. Some are live sawn into slabs for customers.

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Lesley uses a band saw mill that does most of the work but for the really big logs to fit on the band mill he has to first saw them in half with an Alaskan mill powered by two chainsaws. This ain’t a kiddy set up either, the two power heads are Stihl MS 880’s, the largest saws Stihl makes (9 hp each). A 66″ double end saw bar connects the two.

I shot this short video of mill in action on a 48″ white oak, it’s quite a trick.

 

— Will Myers

Categories: Hand Tools

WW18thC 2018 – The Joiner’s Gang

The Barn on White Run - Sat, 02/17/2018 - 7:05am

One of the more recent additions to the WW18thC conference has been Ted Boscana’s crew from the CW housewright shop.   I never fail to learn a lot from these presentation/demonstrations and find Ted to be enjoyable company when we are together.  This year the Joiner’s Gang was reproducing some architectural-scale cornice moldings and I found their approach to be immensely engaging.

Ted divvied up the sections of the molding profile among his posse of Amanda, Peter, and Scott and they set to work.

Although the scale at which they were working lends itself to segmented work, they were also demonstrating some of the complex planes in the CW collection.

As a finale, with one of the large complex molding planes, Ted placed his full weight over the plane body and the posse pulled him along on top of the workpiece with a rope.

PopWood Playback #7 | Top Woodworking Videos of the Week

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 02/17/2018 - 2:03am

PopWood Playback is a series we started on YouTube at the beginning of the year where we share the best woodworking videos of the week. If you have a video that you made or a video that you are in to, leave a link in the comment section and we’ll consider it for next week! Congrats to the winner of the Bora Roller Stands – Douglas D. of Evansville, MN! Top […]

The post PopWood Playback #7 | Top Woodworking Videos of the Week appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Miles's toolbox......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 02/16/2018 - 11:44pm
This is an update on my grandson's toolbox. I think I am pretty close to being done with it. I know of a couple more toys I want to add to the herd before I call it done. This will be the first of 4 or maybe 5 posts I'll do on this. This one is on the toolbox and the saw till. The others will follow suit. While this is going on I'll be working on the tool cabinet and finishing the rehabbing of the #5.

Feel free to chime in on anything you think I need to add or maybe take away. I am not shooting for getting every toy available but a decent starting set for him to learn and grow with. He can add/subtract as he wants if it keeps up with it.

Miles's toolbox and tills
The big toolbox wasn't big enough to put all the tools in it. The long rectangular box is the saw till and the box on top is the till for his squares. I definitely did not want the squares to be banging around loose in the toolbox.

the big toolbox
I had made this a few years ago and I added one big till and two smaller ones. I thought of making a bigger toolbox but I am staying with this. That will keep my purchases to a minimum and hopefully just what is needed.

it's on a rolling dolly
My thanx to the Valley Woodworker (Bob) for making this suggestion. It is a huge back saver and something I will do again.

the saw till
I'll be putting the coping saw in the lid
the backsaws
From the top on down - rip tenon saw, crosscut carcass saw, and a dovetail saw. These should do for any joinery he'll do. He may have to wait a while to grow into them though.

rip and crosscut panel saws
All of these saws have been cleaned, the totes refinished, and all have been sharpened. The coping saw did not need any of this but I do have to fix the handle on it. It is loose and has an annoying habit of separating itself from the saw frame while using it. I'll epoxy it as a first fix.

I think I'm set on saws for Miles. He should be able to build whatever he wants with this set. A couple of things I want to add to the saw till is a saw set and some files so he can sharpen these. He can make his own saw vise as a shop project.

tote screw and a carbide bit to drill holes
One of the totes was loose and I was going to replace one of the saw nuts but both totes are now tight. And I don't remember which one was loose. There is absolutely nothing loose on either of them. I will keep these in this saw till for just in case.

the coping saw holder from my saw till
I am going to reuse this to hold the coping saw in Miles's saw till box.

corners were too tight
I had to rasp the corners back some to give a wee bit more to slip the coping on and off of this.

screws punched through
The lid panel is only 6mm plywood which is less than a 1/4" thick. I didn't want to glue the holder on to the inside of the lid but I may not have a choice. I'll leave it screwed on for now but if I have to I'll glue in on with hide glue.

room for another saw
The coping saw stayed in the holder through several open and close cycles of the lid which surprised me. I was going to put a toggle stick on the holder but I don't think I need to now.

Tomorrow I'll post about the measuring do-dads I stuffed in the toolbox.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the Great White Shark is the largest predatory fish in the world?

Ailsa Craig Box Update…

The Kilted Woodworker - Fri, 02/16/2018 - 3:48pm
(And now for a long overdue update on the Ailsa Craig box…) After letting the boards I’d ripped down rest for a bit in the shop, I cut them to length and width and squared the ends in preparation for dovetails. Because it’s been so long since I’ve cut dovetails, and because marks are hard […]
Categories: General Woodworking

28 Months Later

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Fri, 02/16/2018 - 1:33pm

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There is a point with every new house when it finally feels like home. Today is that day at 837 Willard St. in Covington, Ky.

Thanks to the help of countless friends, our storefront is officially a nice place to work. The clamps hang on the walls (thanks Brendan). The garage out back holds our few machines (thanks 347 people who helped with this project). And we have a coffee maker (thanks Nespresso).

On Saturday morning, we are launching the first woodworking class here at our storefront. We are vehemently not a school – we don’t have a name for it or a formal organization. This is just one of the many small things that we hope to do to give back to the woodworking community and Covington.

Interestingly, the tipping point that made the storefront feel like home had nothing to do with restoring the building, adding electrical service or draining my savings for two new roofs. Instead, it was the arrival of Megan Fitzpatrick and Brendan Gaffney as everyday co-workers.

In general, group shops can be tricky. There’s always a turd or 10 who ruin it for everyone else. Someone who clogs the dust collector and walks away. Someone who tilts the table saw blade 2° and walks away. Someone who dulls all your chisels. Or puts a cold drink on your finished project parts. Or…. I could go on.

I’ve been working with Megan for about 20 years. She’s a slob, but a thoughtful, empathetic rule-following slob. And so she is easy to work with in the shop. I’ve only been working with Brendan for about six months, and he’s an energetic woodworker who is – like Megan – simply a totally decent person.

Each of us has different way of making a living. I publish books and make furniture and tools. Megan is doing a lot of editing (for me and others), teaching and furniture making. Brendan is making furniture, tools and is working for Lost Art Press, helping with maps and technical illustrations.

In six months, this could all be different, but that’s OK. What I can say is that there will definitely be woodworking going on here, much to the bemusement of the 9th Street streetwalkers and the delight of the elementary kids who watch us everyday after school.

We’re also glad that our readers are part of this, whether they take a class, visit us on our open days (the second Saturday of every month) or commission a piece of furniture. Though furniture making is usually a solitary pursuit these days, it doesn’t have to be.

You just need the right people.

— Christopher Schwarz

Categories: Hand Tools

Mortise & Tenon 2018 Schedule

The Mortise & Tenon Magazine Blog - Fri, 02/16/2018 - 8:50am

The following is the list of events we will be participating in this year.

Issue Four Packing Party – March 23rd - 24th

This time around we have another bunch of people joining us for the big packing party for Issue Four. Slots all filled by now but we recommend you get on the waiting list if you have genuine interest in joining us (you never know what may come up). This will be the first party in our new timber frame workshop. We will be wrapping mags, filling ourselves with delicious food, and communing over craftsmanship. Read about the previous packing parties here.

Port Townsend School of Woodworking – April 23rd - 27th: “Table From Rough Boards”

I will be teaching a five-day class as an introduction pre-industrial (hand-tool-only) table making. We will be building a taper-legged table with a breadboard top and a drawer. Last I heard there were only a few spots left. You can sign up for the class here.  

Lie-Nielsen Workshop - June 16th - 17th Workshop: “Build a Table with Hand Tools”

This is a hand tools meat-and-potatoes kind of class - an introduction to the hand-tool-only approach to building a table. I’ll bring period originals along for students to examine to help inform their working tolerances. The goal is to show how to work with pre-industrial efficiency. Sign-up for the workshop here.

Lie-Nielsen Open House – July 13th - 14th

Always a highlight of the year. Come hang out with like-minded hand tool fanatics. No cover charge. Also, join us for the Saturday evening lobster dinner. Maine, hand tools, lobster, and beer... What more could you ask for? More info here.

Pre-orders for Issue Five Open! – August 1st 

Stay tuned for more info.

Issue Five Packing Party – End of September (Date TBD)

Stay tuned for more info.

Leonard’s Mills Living History Days Event – Early October

Every year my family interprets 1790s rural Maine life. I will have my portable Nicholson bench and a full chest of tools to demonstrate 18th-century cabinetmaking all weekend. More info here.

- Joshua

 

Categories: Hand Tools

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