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Put This Book On Your Christmas List
Have you ever had that feeling during the construction of a piece of furniture where you felt that everything clicked? That moment when joinery fit sweetly right off the tool? Or when design elements coalesce into their own element? The moment of satisfaction when you feel like every step in the process was achieved by your hard-wrought practice and skill, and not just a result of luck or chance? Now raise your hand if you also wish that early in your woodworking endeavor there was a book that laid the foundation for you to achieve this sort of satisfaction without years of trial and error.
Jeff Miller has just finished writing that book. I had the privilege to read some excerpts from Jeff's book earlier this year. I can only say that I wish he had written it 20 years ago. This isn't a step-by-step book about how to cut joints or work surfaces. It's more about why the joints are cut that way. It also covers something that is rarely touched on in woodworking media: ergonomics. In other words, it teaches the DNA of woodworking fundamentals.
The book is being published by Popular Woodworking Books. I know I'll be on the lookout when its released this fall.
For more info, see Jeff Miller's Chairs and More blog.
It's not that I'm right...
Back beginnings
Usually I carve on the back first, but this time I started with the top. Now onto the back, and man, is that maple tough compared to the spruce. I cut the outline today, and started removing wood, getting towards the arching.
The silver piece in the upper left is a long arch template. I have my long arch fairly nice now, but it's still 19mm high in the center, so will need to come down a bit, more towards 16 or so.
Buried in the shavings on the upper center-right is a large gouge that I use (after the scrub plane) to remove wood fast.
In the c-bout is my large thumb plane, which actually removes a lot of wood in a hurry, too -- so much so that it actually gets quite warm to the touch.
Controlling wildfires is not always a good idea.
Here is what I wrote about the subject in 1981 and it is even more important today. It is a followup to a previous post ‘An Open Letter to the President…’.
The above text is from Shepherds’ Compleat Early Nineteenth Century Woodworker, 1981, 2012, as is the following cartoon.
Stephen
Sharp!
This cut is tricky on a regular seat, and even more so on a settee because the cove is all endgrain. Nothing but the sharpest knife will do.
So I got out my angle grinder (you have bought one, right!?) and went to work on the back of the drawknife. The knife that I use for this is very special. It doesn't have much steel left on it and I don't grind a bevel on it. Instead, I round the front (which rides in the cut) and flatten the back. Of course, a rounded front is very hard to sharpen because of the difficulty honing it. So the back is where the action is.
By flattening the back and honing it until a burr turns to the front, I get a great edge. I run through all of the stones on the back and only touch the front to the final stone and strop it lightly. I don't strop the back because I want it perfectly flat. With the hollowing help of the grinder, I got the thing sharper than I've ever had it and the cove on the seat was a breeze!
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| Click on the image for a closer look |
Since I've been reforming my tools, I've picked up a new habit that I'm ashamed to say I didn't years ago. I've started oiling all of my edge tools with camelia oil before stowing them. It may seem like a little thing, but rust never sleeps and a sharp edge is a tiny place, easily affected.
Now I take the tool off the rack and give it a quick rub with a paper towel and let it sing.
Here is the settee, all legged up.
Since spring has sprung, I have been enjoying all the work that the previous owners of our house put into their gardens. Here is a rhododendron outside my shop window.
Great stuff, but poison to goats, so watch out.
Plimoth, 1627/2012
We here at The Riven Word love music. It’s healthy to take a time out and engage in music now and then. As such, we look for any opportunity to sneak a little into some of our posts. Any genre will do, as long as it’s good!
What follows is a sublime composition by Richard Wagner, Vorspiel from Das Rheingold. It was featured in the 2005 Terrence Malick film, The New World : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFkyAD9gS6g
Regardless of your overall opinion of the movie, one must admit that the opening scenes–accompanied by this music were powerful statements of first contact in the Americas.
Here is The Riven Word’s take on both that piece and our own slice of the New World in the 17th century. If you find it derivative, amateurish, or even unintentionally hilarious, we certainly understand. Close your eyes, though, and let the music do its thing.
It’s been a while since we’ve plugged Mr. Follansbee’s superlative Joiner’s Notes blog. One of his recent posts has a link to a Roy Underhill stage presentation which is very much worth your time: http://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/
Also, for blogs posted by other kindred minds on woodworking and the allied arts, this site will keep you on the cutting edge: http://unpluggedshop.com/
Keeping co-worker Eva Lipton in our thoughts and prayers: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Team-EVA/223963567711425
Guitar labels
The crypt is the oldest part of Winchester cathedral, dating from the 11th century. In a pleasing contrast, it contains something entirely modern – a mysterious life-size statue of a man standing upright, looking down at a pool of water held in his cupped hands and contemplating the reflections he sees there. The sculptor, Antony Gormley, created it from a plaster cast of his own body. After the cast had hardened, it was strengthened with glass fibre and covered in sheet lead. He talks about the technique here.
I’m grateful to Winchester-based photographer Joe Low (www.joelow.com), for letting me use the image below. He took this spectacular photograph of the statue in the winter when the crypt was flooded.
My friend Gill Robinson, a professional artist (and enthusiastic amateur guitarist) who also lives and works in Winchester, incorporated a witty allusion to Gormley’s statue when she designed a guitar label for me at the end of last year.
And for clients who might prefer something more traditional, she produced a scraperboard drawing of the west front of the cathedral.
Here’s one of Gill’s luminous landscapes – a watercolour of Welsh mountains. More of her work, including portraits of guitarists Mark Eden and Christopher Stell can be seen here.
The Highland Woodworker: A New Episode Featuring Brian Boggs and Ron Brese!
Click below to take a look at the second episode of The Highland Woodworker! Charles Brock takes you to visit woodworking shops of well-known woodworkers including chairmaker Brian Boggs and planemaker Ron Brese as well as Popular Woodworking editor Matthew Teague.
And keep your eye out for Episode 3 of The Highland Woodworker – coming early September 2012!
Don’t Believe Everything You Read
For centuries, woodworking skills and techniques were passed down directly from master to student. If you wanted to learn, you spent time with someone who had done it for a long time, followed an example that you saw first hand, and tried it yourself with your teacher there to correct your mistakes. When we learn Continue reading»
Moulding Profiles of Writing Desk #2
Chris Isn’t Here
I’m traveling for the next 10 days to a wide variety of Southern destinations to do research for a couple books, interview some woodworkers for articles in Popular Woodworking Magazine, record an audio book and eat my entire weight in grits.
So if you send me an e-mail, it’s unlikely that I’m going to get it immediately and even less likely that that I’ll be able to answer it until I return on May 28 (or so). So if you have a workbench emergency, you’ll have to contact Scott Landis. For handplane emergencies, contact Garrett Hack. Toolbox emergencies, Jim Tolpin.
If you miss me, then click on over to Rob Campbell’s blog “The Joiner’s Apprentice,” where he just posted an interview with me. The direct link is… here.
— Christopher Schwarz
Filed under: Uncategorized
Spooncarving at ‘Weekend in the Woods’ 2012
I had a brilliant weekend teaching spooncarving to students on the Coppice Association’s ‘Weekend in the Woods’. Six courses all taking place over the same weekend makes a fantastic atmosphere with lots of folk busily making and sharing ideas.
When I teach spoon carving, I want people to go home with more than just a spoon; my aim is that they learn techniques so they can continue carving after the course and have a better understanding of safe and effective use of the axe and knives. To this end we spent a lot of time practising different knife grips on lengths of hazel rod and building up muscle memory into the hands. I’m really careful to make sure everyone’s hands are in just the right position when they practise, sometimes just a slight change can make a big difference. I’ve learnt that a good guiding principle is ‘when you change to a new grip, check before you start cutting to see where everything is in relation to the knife’ which helps avoid accidents.

All this work is pretty intensive on the hands so I included a session on hand stretches and we joined Mike Carswell’s group for a warm up session with exercises specifically for the arms and hands.
As the weekend progresses we build up skills and make tent pegs and butter spreaders to learn the techniques of using the axe and straight knife first. By Sunday everyone is keen to start a spoon and with the skills they’ve built up, the work goes much easier. There were lots of questions about designing, using different woods and the order in which to work which I’ve learned my own answers to over the years of carving and by talking with other makers; it’s great to pass it on to a new set of students and hopefully I’ll see some of them at Spoonfest in August.

The NW Coppice Association are a lively bunch so with so many of us all gathered together on saturday night, there had to be some games after the day’s work. Events in the ‘Coppice Olympics’ including Egg & Wooden Spoon Hurdle race, Tape Measure Extension and Leaf Putting – something for the Bodger’s Ball in the future perhaps?

[Interview] Christopher Schwarz of Lost Art Press
Q&A with Some of My Woodworking Mentors
TJA: How long have you been woodworking, and what changes have you seen in the field since you started?
CS: I built my first workbench when I was 11, which is where I built stuff with wood and also model airplanes. It's also where I assembled books that I wrote and illustrated. I tried to sell them to friends and family with no luck. Thank goodness for the Internet. It's hard to make a living selling books on the vehicles of World War II to your sisters. Once I started driving and got a girlfriend, my interest in woodworking went on hold. As soon as I graduated from college in 1990 it came back full bore and has only gotten worse.
The biggest change I've seen since 1990 is, duh, the Internet. When I started woodworking I thought I was one of the few people who liked using hand tools. It was a lonely slog. The Internet has made it incredibly easy for all nutjobs to find like-minded nutjobs and recruit new ones.
TJA: What is your favorite style to work in? What styles do you just not understand or have no interest in?
CS: I find all furniture really interesting -- even the junk. I'm fascinated how Ikea stuff is designed and made. I marvel at the craftsmanship of the period stuff. Southern furniture is a big interest to me. But I don't really like high-style furniture. I appreciate it. But I have no desire to build it. It is, apologies for the politics, the furniture of the 1 percent. I've always been interested in the furniture of the 99 percent, which doesn't get written about.
In fact, the style I like doesn't really have a name, outside of "country" or vernacular." What "style" is a workbench, a tool chest, a packing box, the schoolbox or the chest of drawers from "The Joiner and Cabinet Maker." The answer is, I think, going to be my life's work.
TJA: What tools do you always look forward to using and/or what operations do you most look forward to, time after time?
CS: I love my block plane because it can do almost anything. It is also, by far, the tool of mine that shows the most wear.
As to operations, I love assembly. It is the most thrilling part of an entire project. It's where all the patience and persistence pay off. Or don't.
TJA: How much time do you actually get in your shop in a typical week?
CS: At least 20 hours. But that time is not always building stuff. That's everything from maintenance to sharpening. If I miss a day in the shop, I get grumpy.
TJA: Have you had any memorable masters or mentors help you gain the skills you currently possess? How did you meet them?
CS: All the good stuff I know is from other people. Troy Sexton, a power-tool woodworker in Sunbury, Ohio, opened my eyes to how to work efficiently and blazingly fast. His principles of work applied directly to my handwork. My grandparents taught me an appreciation for furniture – a huge gift — and my grandfather was a lifetime woodworker who taught me lots of stuff when I was young.
John Brown inspired a deep love of Welsh stick chairs in me.
Robert Wearing's "Essential Woodworker" book is the one that put together all the pieces I knew into a coherent system.
But most of my mentors are already gone. Charles H. Hayward's writings and illustrations have inspired me as a builder, editor and writer. I think own everything the man wrote from 1936 until his death. His work cannot be underestimated.
TJA: You've almost single-handedly launched a Roubo workbench craze. How do you feel about this bench after years of work on it (and seeing hundreds of others), and how do you feel about its rise to ubiquity among hand tool enthusiasts?
CS: It's the best bench I've ever worked on. When I built my first Roubo in 2005 I had never seen a bench like it in person. I had never used a leg vise. I didn't even really know if it would be suitable for modern work. But it has exceeded my expectations at every turn. I still have my first Roubo bench under my window in my shop and don't think I'll ever part with it.
As to its popularity, I guess I'm glad that people can see what I saw. When my first book came out the reaction was not immediate. It took a while for a few brave souls to build one and also become advocates for it. So it really has been the work of lots of people who were crazy enough to build a bench that looks like its was made out of Legos.
TJA: In The Anarchist's Tool Chest, you made a very strong case for supporting the resurrection of domestic furniture making, truly decent tools, and a less-is-more approach to building one's tool library (as well as life in general). Have you seen any evidence of these ideals taking root, and are you optimistic about the future of domestic production, re-appreciation of hand tools, and a shift in preference to quality over cheapness in the American economy? If not, do you have any ideas on furthering these ideals?
CS: I harbor no illusions about our society. There would have to be major changes in our economy for us all to consume less and to appreciate quality in all things.
But, like anarchism, there can be a tendency among some of us to consume less and think as small as possible. To make instead of buy. And if enough people exhibit this tendency, real change can occur. The rise of micro-brewing, for example, has been neither sudden nor without its bumps. And it still represents a small fraction of the brewing in our culture. But there is enough micro-brewing that it supports 100,000 employees now (more than work at woodworking professionally, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics). And it has begun to seep into the mainstream culture – big brewers are improving their beer. So that's the kind of slow change I hope to see. I'd rather it grow like an oak than a weed.
TJA: I know you have a Karmann Ghia that you have enjoyed restoring; what else you enjoy outside of woodworking and time with your family?
CS: I cook for my family almost every night (Wednesday we go out for pizza). I'm obsessed with good food and where it comes from. We have an incredible and old market here, Findlay Market, that I frequent for everything. We've been going to the same butcher and green grocer for 15 years. And every Tuesday I force my kids (and wife) to try something new. We call it New Food Night. My kids hate it, but they are much more adventurous eaters as a result.
I also am a voracious collector of music. It is always on in the shop and my office. I used to play guitar in a band in college (boy did we suck) but music and me are inseparable.
TJA: What is happening in the hand tool world (toolmakers, blogs, books, projects) that you think need more press?
CS: I wish we (me included) were doing a better way of documenting techniques. If we spent half as much time discussing technique as we do discussing tool minutiae, I think we'd all be better builders (me included).
TJA: I've heard it said that you make your own sausage. Is there truth to the rumor that there may be a Schwarz-designed line of meat grinders from [company name redacted] in the future? Is bronze safe to use on food?
CS: Writing books is a lot like making sausage. It is not pretty. So that's half-true.
The Importance of Being Busy.
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| One of Peter Follansbee's chests, similar to the style I'm thinking about for Chloe. |
The lid of the box was fun. The twin heart motif has been a popular theme for these weddings and so I carved another variation on that theme. Simpler this time because of the narrower space to work with but I worked in a new center medallion. Of course my ideas come from historical pieces or some of the reproduction work I see from Follansbee. I find joy in mixing the elements together in my own take on a design.
I have seen several takes on a repeating series of interwoven circles in historical pieces. This past weekend I visited a great museum and got some close up looks at a couple of 16th century wainscot chairs from across the pond. One of them used a version of the chain across one rail of the back
It was something I wanted to try for a while, finally I decided it was time to go for it.
The client for this box had an unusual request, an idea that I found intriguing. They are getting married in Florida, on a beach, and she wanted something representing the ocean carved on the inside of the box. My carving is typically very geometric but I wanted to make her happy. Its for her wedding after all. I pondered something with waves or sunshine and eventually was struck by an inspired thought.
I was cruising the internet and stumbled on a new blog (new for me to find at least) Mary May is a fantastic artisan, I've watched her "Woodwrights Shop" episode a dozen times as I've been studying to expand my experience into acanthus leaves and similar endeavors from. I began to read my way through her writing and pictures and found a post covering carved Newport shells. A shell is an excellent representation of the ocean.
I was unsure if I could pull it off but time is becoming of the essence and I decided to move forward. I carved my own take on the shell form and in the end was pleased with the results. I hope my client is as well.
I did realize I am going to have to expand my range of gouge sizes if I want to continue down this path. Bigger sweeps will be necessary.
I finished up this evening by gluing up the dovetails and in the morning I'll get the piece sanded and the lid attached. A couple days of finishing, some final pictures, and the piece will be moving its way through the mail to a new home.
So if you might be wondering what the not so good news is that's going to slow my progress this summer. This Friday I will be having surgery to reconstruct a new Anterior Cruciate Ligament in my left knee (among some other various collateral damage from the injury) With all the needed work I will probably end up in a state of non weight bearing for up to six weeks. That will put a damper on my bench time for a while.
I want any clients out there reading this to know that I have planned for this surgery and if you have made a down payment for a piece, it is already on the way out or will be early next week. (I can still apply finish on crutches). If you are thinking about ordering a piece or we have been discussing it but no money has exchange hands, then I will include my recovery time in the estimate when that happens.
The good thing about this though is I will have more time to catch up on all the great blogs out here on the internet and I will have more time to write some myself. Speaking of great blogs out there, go and check out Mary May's blog and add it to your reader. It's an informative and inspiring place.
Talk to you soon.
Ratione et Passionis
Chip Breakers
An old video has resurfaced and now it has been subtitled. The magnificent Wilbur Pan, rides again!
This video has an odd enough history of impact. I have even heard it argued, in absence of the actual video, that it proved that chip breakers did not work.
There has been such a current of downplay on chip breakers, that when I originally wrote this article, I decided that I was not yet ready to publish it. There are some very talented and skilled woodworkers, some of them with a great deal of historical background, that would strongly disagree with me. A lot of these craftsmen are of such skill that I doubt I will or even could come close to the mastery of woodworking tools that they command.
But with this video link available, I feel a bit more confident.
When power tools came, the way things were made changed. New materials, dimensional lumber and methods that did not have as steep a learning curve transformed the woodworking industry.
Things could have been, but were not made terribly better. They were made faster, and less training was needed. As power tools took over, many skills were forgotten. Apprenticeship died and so did a lot of traditions. A lot of skills survived, but the reasons for doing things they way they they are often got lost in the tumble. There are mysteries still.
One odd ‘mystery’ is the appearance of the chip breaker. In a field where change was typically slow, this innovation swept in quickly. While many of us respect the wisdom and skill of these craftsmen, the sudden adoption of the chip breaker perplexes quite a few students of classic hand tools. On the web it is not been rare to hear and capable, respectable craftsmen debate with certainty as to the value of a chip breaker.
I started out with no opinion. Then I fell in love with high angle and low angle planes. Since high angle planes don’t have much use for chip breakers, and bevel up planes have no use for chip breakers, I became strongly in the camp that felt that chip breakers are an added complexity and hardly worth the time. They increase your adjustment complexity, tune up complexity and they can promote jamming. I had also read advice from some fairly brilliant sharpeners who advised you to put a bevel on the back of the blade. Chip breakers do not work well with back bevels.
So I fell into the ‘Chip Breakers are Useless Camp.’ Keep in mind that I had made several very nice planes and my best ones did not have chip breakers. I did not argue the point much, since many of the folk arguing on either side, were way more advanced woodworkers than I will probably ever be. But if you had asked me, during the three month that I was a member of this camp, I would have told you that chip breakers were at best good top irons. The combination of a softer iron top and a harder iron for cutting reduced vibration. The top iron also allowed a thinner iron to be sold and used. I figured that it was scarcity of steel that made a top iron desirable. Odd thought that, when you consider that folk were beginning to move to iron planes, and the top iron combined with the bottom iron was definitely more machining and just as much iron.
While doing way too much planing, I came to the conclusion that back bevels were not the easy way to maintain blade sharpness or life over time. Back bevels are a great way to appear to be a brilliant sharpener while doing a demonstration, but for day to day work, it make sharpening the actual edge more complex and eats blades. Stropping early and often turns out to be a much better method. By giving up on the back bevel, I eliminated the most critical bit of resistance to using a chip breaker.
Then when reading a heated argument about chip breakers where one brave and brilliant woodworker was defending them against all comers, I realized that I had strong bias, but those biases were developed before I became good at tuning and adjusting planes. My anti-chip breaker position fit in well with those biases, but I could not actually support my beliefs.
I had recently obtained a few relatively inexpensive Japanese planes with chip breakers. These planes will work just fine without the chip breaker. The thick tapered blades wedge to the wood and need no stabilization from a top iron.
So while I was experimenting with these Japanese Planes, I decided to do a nice solid test so that I was not just repeating the chip data that research, photos, and brilliant arguments that all agreed that chip breakers were barely useful and a big pain. So I tuned up a blade and chip breaker to absolute precision. I adjusted chip breakers the way that people who use them say you should. I really did not expect to find any amazing improvements. I had sharp blades and tight mouths, I did not expect any serious improvement. Well I was wrong. By actually testing chip breakers, I found that they made a very big difference in the surface left behind.
My bias, learned back when I had no feel for grain, and thought oak was really hard wood, had made me vulnerable to the group consensus. Here is what I found out.
If you are able to make a flat surface, then you can match a chip breaker and blade so that splinters never wedge between them. This solves the first issue I had with them. If the surfaces are smooth and you match them up and clean them up properly, jams are not caused by them either. So if you can tune a plane, a chip breaker does not cause a lot of problems. With a well tuned plane, there is not a real reason to fear or hate a chip breaker.
A top iron is not hard to line up exactly with a bottom iron. On a Western Plane, you loosen the screw that holds them together, rest them edge down on some wood, and tighten the screw. To get the bottom iron a touch forward of the bottom iron, you just lean then a bit and then tighten the screw. Seriously how hard is that? On a Japanese Plane you have to tap it into place, but once you develop the knack, it is much more convenient than doing adjustments on a Western Plane. I can do all this with ease, and I am not in the same league with a lot of the folk out there using planes. So fine adjustment, once you are reasonably skilled, is not a problem either.
So the problems that chip breakers create are close to negligible for a skilled craftsman. While they are not horrible, what good are they?
They reduce back wear on the blade. Wear on the back of the blade, is what eats blades fastest. By lifting the shaving off the bottom iron, wear is reduced. Oddly enough, by having the right clearance angle over the blade, in some cases the edge will start the cut and then only occasionally actually touch wood. So in some cases, the edge life of a blade can make a leap off the chart while still making a glass smooth cut. So first and foremost, a chip breaker can reduce your time sharpening and increase your blade life. With just that, suddenly a chip breaker is a pretty nice thing.
The ‘chip breaker’ advantage of a chip breaker requires fine adjustment. As the blade edge on the top iron is moved closer to the blade edge on the bottom iron, the plane begins to act more and more like a high angle plane. If they are quite close to even the plane becomes a high angle plane. This means that with very fine adjustment, you can in fact choose the behavior of your plane. A lot of folk talk about keeping the top irons edge within a thirty-second of an inch from the edge of the bottom iron or it does nothing. That is not entirely true, but for the sake of argument, that’s close to three hundredths of an inch. If you can’t make settings that are a lot finer than that, then you can’t adjust a smoother. A thirty-second of an inch is a very fat chip.
Anyone with a chip in this argument can tune up and adjust a plane to cut a shaving that is a thousandth of an inch thick. Adjusting a chip breaker this close should not really be a terrible challenge. A thirty-second of an inch might be fine tuning for a table saw, but on a smoother a thirty-second of an inch is a very fat chip.
If you have a sharp even chip breaker, you can tap the chip breaker almost right up to the edge of the blade, and take a folded type chip out. This allows you to plane harder rougher wood with the same plane that does well on soft. with the chip breaker just a half a hairs width back from the edge, the blade will handle odd wood grain quite well.
With the chip breaker back to the normal hairs width from the edge it can take a nice, full blade width, shaving out with ease. You can also pull back the chip breaker if you are trying to hog out lots of softwood quickly.
This gives you at least four planes in one. Four quality planes in one. No wonder the old time experts converted to chip breakers . Yes there are a lot of odd opinions on top irons used as chip breakers, and I find that I am in disagreement with some craftsmen that are far beyond me in skill. I love chip breakers and I know from observation and experience that they work great.
For an occasional craftsman who dreads taking a blade out or adjusting a plane, a top iron is horrid. For a craftsman who has a hundred planes on the wall, a top iron may be just another thing to fiddle with while trying to do work. For a craftsman with less than a dozen planes, or a craftsman who carries his tools, I believe that it is well worth his time to learn how to use a double iron.
Bob
18th Century Bookstand – Woodworking Parlor Trick
We do some things just because they’re fun … or maybe a challenge.
I have this brand new book. It needs a stand.
Ah-ha! Roy made a really interesting stand that’s originally attributed to Roubo. I call it a parlor trick because it is made from a single piece of wood. Roy made his from Walnut, probably near an inch thick. For fun, and challenge, I made mine from a scrap of boat lumber left over from Eva Won. It is cedar and rough resawed to about 1/2 inch thick. Can it be resawed thinner and tortured into becoming one of these bookstands?
The trick is making a barrel hinge and resawing right up to the edge of the hinge. Roy shows you how in this episode of The Woodwright Shop. Other than lumber and scale, mine isn’t much different … other than using a utility saw for resawing (hah!). Go watch Roy. I’ll let a few pictures tell the rest of the story.
Penrhyn Castle Tour Session #5
This is the dressing room next to the bedroom in the previous post. I like spending time in here when I can. The atmosphere is most pleasing and I like the way the light filters in through the shuttered windows.
This fitted wardrobe is filled with drawers and shelves used for clothing and bed linen storage.
The carvings are mixed geometric simpleness with complex freeform areas. Moustached faces are repeated throughout each section, adding a sort of wood-spirit impression. This is a fairly large piece at 12’ long and 7’6” tall.
The large dress mirror continues some of the castle column theme, repeat arching and so on.
This Hopper desk seems out of place here and of course with the arched kneehole being so low, it was obviously not used in the common way. But there are aspects to the desk that I really like in that it’s a masculine desk and has a 1” thick slate work surface. The wallpaper in the background is by William Morris.
The chapel
The arched ceiling in the chapel is vaulted with segmented arching supported on typical columns that continue into graceful proportions that then culminate in central rosettes. Arched windows and doorways and recesses further define the arching.
This balustrade unites the entrance with the main chapel body via a small set of stairways and each column is independently carved in its own unique characteristic carving.

Stained glasswork forms the window panels, but just look at the vivid blues and yellows and purples.
Roubo: Sliding Deadman
the boat that didn't float
The pics that appeared in the press showed her from a very unflattering angle so I wanted to share some more images taken the next day when I went to say my sad farewells before heading home.
Rachel had a thing about not getting inside the boat until launch day and having missed that she sat inside for the first time.
Dover boat launch day, end of 3 months work

Mastic in hand maybe should have used a few more tubes.
Keith who found the original boat in 1992 came to lend a hand.
Then Richard watched by Pete Clark pushed the boat off the building platform.
Richard with wife Lee and his boat, I can not tell you what a pleasure and an honour it was to work with this wonderfully humble man and help him realise his dream.
Tony Robinson had changed his hectic schedule to stay over for the launch.
Then suddenly it was away
Hotly pursued by Tony and crew.
through the market square
Whilst everyone else followed allong we were left with a rather sad empty tent full of tools to clear up and lock away before dashing down to try to catch the launch.
We were just in time to get a pic before they started to lower it in.
Then a dash round the other side there was something wrong
she was taking on water and had to be lifted back out......I was gutted, it felt like reaching the FA cup final after monumental effort only to loose in injury time. I got a big hug from Tony Robinson who could feel our pain. It was always going to be a difficult brief to build a boat that can float one day then take apart to get into a museum a few weeks later on a very tight time schedule and we came very very close.




























































