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General Woodworking

Stanley 71 screw sizes update........

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 09/08/2017 - 10:47am
I was looking at my blog post for today and I saw that I forgot to add the screw sizes. Yikes! This blog post's main purpose was to publish the sizes and I zoned that right out.

all checked out
There are six screws on this 71 but I don't know it's history or how to type it. In addition to the six screws there is one round thumb wheel screw (not sure what to call this). It is the one that advances and retracts the iron.

small flat head screw
This screw is a 12-24 and is a 1/4" long measured under the head. I don't know what the angle is and I'm guessing it's the standard 82°?

depth shoe screw
This gizmo still has me scratching the bald spot. I'll have to look it up in my Stanley catalogs and see if anything is written in there about it. This screw is a bit mangled on the threads at the top but it doesn't matter here as those threads aren't even close to being used. This screw is a 1/4-24. I couldn't double check this in my thread checkers because none of them have this size. But I did match up the threads with the #24 on the screw pitch gauge.

The fence screw I did get in today's blog post. It's a 10-24 x 3/8" and I think it is too short. I ordered some 10-24 x 1/2" & 3/4" screws, along with #10 washers, hex nuts, and wing nuts. I'll get them next week.

nickel plated
The nickel plating goes with the rest of the plane. The size of this is 12-20 but I couldn't check it in any of my thread checkers as none have this size. The screw pitch gauge for #20 lines up perfectly with it. I also tired some of my spare studs for knobs and they all fit and I know those are 12-20 threaded.

these are the same size
They are the same size but different in one aspect. The screw for the iron clamp has a conical shaped end. That is so it will mate and fit in the vee. The one for securing the depth rod is flat on the end. Both of these are a 1/4-28. I do have this size on a thread checker and I also checked the thread size with the screw pitch gauge for #28. Both were a match.

I would bet the ranch that these screws and the one on the depth shoe would have been all the same size.

 this one is hard to measure
the stud is a 1/4-28 so the thumb wheel is the same size
As soon as I can figure out the vintage of my 71 I'll post it.

accidental woodworker

A Visit to Takuji Matsuda’s Kiribako Shop: Part 1

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 09/08/2017 - 8:35am

My friend and neighbor, Takuji Matsuda, is an untraditional traditional Japanese woodworker. He is one of a few remaining makers of a special kind of Japanese box called Kiribako, and perhaps the only North America based maker who is an expert in building dedicated Kiribako for Buddha statues. While well rooted in the traditions of Japanese woodworking, Mr. Matsuda, a graduate of the sculpture program at Pratt Institute in New […]

The post A Visit to Takuji Matsuda’s Kiribako Shop: Part 1 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Book Giveaway: Build Historic American Furniture With Hand Tools

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 09/08/2017 - 5:53am
Saw, Plane, Chisel

Interested in how historic american furniture was built? This week’s book giveaway is for a copy of Zach Dillinger’s “With Saw, Plane & Chisel.” This look at period-accurate building techniques is perfect for those who love hand tools as well as anyone who appreciates classic American furniture styles. The book includes joinery techniques, processes for prepping stock by hand and features six furniture projects covering such styles as Queen Anne, William & Mary and Chippendale. Simply post […]

The post Book Giveaway: Build Historic American Furniture With Hand Tools appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Scything wildflower meadow verge

Steve Tomlin Crafts - Fri, 09/08/2017 - 3:34am
One of my favourite images from a brilliant day mowing in Yorkshire. Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

Stanley 71 screw sizes.......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 09/08/2017 - 1:17am
My grandson's name is Miles. I've been spelling it Myles and my wife saw that and didn't tell me. I found the correct spelling when I checked his picture book for his middle name. I needed that because I'm putting his full name on his Stanley 71 box. I switched from his initials to his full name on the bottom of the box. A full name will be better than initials when it comes to settling disputes 50 or 100 years from now.

stud for a bench plane tote
The stud doesn't fit in any of the four small holes. The two large ones aren't threaded and are meant for attaching an auxiliary base to the 71.

I tried a few more just to be sure
I checked these threads with a pitch gauge and the #20 wouldn't line up with this. It might have because it was hard to hold the magnifying glass, the stud, and the gauge all at the same time. I didn't feel the gauge fall into the threads neither.

got my new fence screw
The 20 pitch doesn't fit this screw. I checked this one upstairs under the stationary magnifying glass that doubles as my desk lamp.

it fits in all four fence holes
The hole right next to the screw is the one that had a different screw when I got it. I tossed it because I knew it wasn't even close to being a OEM replacement screw.

it fits and holds the fence securely
screw appears to be short (front hole on the left)
The screw doesn't even make it halfway into the base. The screw I got is 3/8" long under the head and the thickness of the fence, washer, and the base is 3/4" strong. I am going to get some 1/2" or 5/8" long screws to replace this one.

it's a 10-24 screw
10-24 insert
This insert is too long for the box and I don't have any 10-24 nuts. So using either of them to attach the fence in the box is toast.

no problems threading the wood with the screw
I drilled an 11/64 hole, lightly chamfered the top, and screwed it home.

not working
 With the washer installed, the screw isn't long enough to bite into the threads. Without the washer I can screw it down and secure the fence.

making a tap
I have a lot of 10-24 thumbscrews and made one into a tap. I starting by filing a vee at the end of it. I next filed the bottom into a conical shape and called it done. I tried it on a thinner piece of wood ( I didn't want to risk the screw I had anymore). I got the same results - red light with a washer and a green light without it. The threaded hole on this one was a bit tighter too.

stowing the fence screw here for now

cleaned up and made the chamfer a bit wider with a chisel
chiseled most of the pencil line off
calling the box done and ready to shellac
forgot to saw a bevel on the front
I marked these and sawed them off with a Zona saw.

this is where I found out I had been misspelling his name
My Wife said this is the same name as her grandfather, with an 'i'. I'm not sure if that is why Amanda chose this name though.

practice piece
Looks like a regular dovetail from this vantage point. The bottom saw cut for the tail shouldn't be there.

from this side too
the bottom has no half pin and it is mitered
I glued this one together so I can't take it apart.

I had made a second one I didn't glue
interesting joint
As long as the groove for the bottom lands in the miter, you don't have to worry about the groove showing. I definitely would need this as a model if I were to make another one.

the first half blinds I ever made
I don't remember which one I did first. I would like to say the left was first and the improved second set is on the right.

a mitered bridle joint
I have a few more practice joints but they fell behind the cabinet. I like these because I have a visual I can compare what I do now with these to see if I improved, regressed, or stayed the same.

shellac comes tomorrow
 I am not sure if the ink in the pen I used is alcohol based so I'll put a coat of poly over it first. Tomorrow I can apply as many coats of shellac as I want without any problems.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
It was held for the first time on this date in 1921. What was it?
answer - the American Beauty Pageant

CAD to CAM to CNC: Part Six — 10 Different Vise Chops

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 09/07/2017 - 10:37am

In my last few posts, I showed how two different vise chops designs were created for the BARN workbenches. One technique was based on an easy to use 3D CAD tool: extrusion. Armed with a squiggly line, that gave me a 3D ripple in a hurry. The second chop was created using rule-based clone copies of simple geometric shapes to create an array. That gave me a big set of […]

The post CAD to CAM to CNC: Part Six — 10 Different Vise Chops appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Weather report.

The Slightly Confused Woodworker - Thu, 09/07/2017 - 9:00am

For the first time in a long, long time I was a “power tool woodworker” on Sunday afternoon. There was nothing momentous about this occasion, it just so happened, to happen.

To set the scene, several years ago (I don’t remember exactly when), I purchased a weather instrument kit from Lee Valley because it was on sale and because they were offering free shipping. I’ve always enjoyed the appearance of vintage weather stations and I thought it would be a nice idea to make one. So like all new project ideas, I planned on starting that one ASAP, and the kit was promptly placed in a cabinet in my garage where it sat untouched for around 24 months give or take.

In the meanwhile, I’ve managed to build up quite a stash of walnut, cherry, and ash, along with the prerequisite pine and poplar, and coincidentally I happened to see one of those weather stations at a museum recently, so I thought it would be a good idea to finally make my own version.

The original plan was simple: a walnut slab cornered and chamfered with a basic finish applied. So I used broke out the table saw to cross-cut and rip the slab to finish size. The news is all good; the saw cut smoothly and there was no hint of bogging or binding, and this on a 1 inch thick x 13 inch wide slab of well-seasoned walnut. I then laid out the corners and cut the first one with a hand saw. Of course I had to clean up that cut with a block plane, and then it dawned on me to use the table saw to cut the other corners. Why not? What was the worst that could happen?

Nothing happened, it took all of 2 minutes for the cuts to be made.

I then needed to plane the board smooth, as it was a true in-the-rough board. I used a jack plane first just to get the bulk of the work done, and I then went to my Stanley #4. For whatever reason, it didn’t seem to be producing the results that I wanted, so I decided to turn to my coffin smoother, which is a tool that I painstakingly and lovingly restored myself with many hours of labor (thank you Graham Haydon). The plane performed above and beyond expectations and it should have, considering I spent hours on the sharpening alone.

Lastly, I chamfered the edges with a block plane. Everything went so quickly I had myself a wacky idea: how about adding another panel, inset and raised above the walnut, in a lighter wood such as cherry. I had several nice pieces of cherry that would work, but rather than taking the risk of ruining them (in the sense that it wouldn’t look all that great) I decided to use a piece of scrap pine for a test run. So I went back to the table saw and quickly made the cuts. I then had to cut out the holes for the weather pieces, which required a 2 1/2 inch hole. My largest forstner bit is 2 1/8 inches, so I used a hole saw instead, and in the drill-press it worked just fine.

The most difficult part was accurately drilling two holes for dowels which would align the two boards. I used a combination square to set the reveal, taped the board securely with painters tape, and started the drilling. My plan was to use the scrap pine as a template, so I drilled through that board and around ½ inch into the walnut. Lastly, I quickly planed and chamfered the pine, screwed in two temporary spacers on the walnut, and installed the panel. (once the cherry is installed the dowels will not be seen)

IMG_2701 (002)

All in all I like the look, though I do think it will look even better with a cherry panel instead of the scrap pine. When I removed the pine to apply a finish, it split a touch, not that it matters because it was only a temp solution, and I should have no trouble using it as a template for the cherry. The project came in at just about 2 hours, and I’m estimating that replacing the pine with cherry will probably be a 45 minute affair. I would have finished right then and there but the day was already getting long. Truthfully, I think maple would look even better but I don’t have a suitable maple board to use.

Regardless, it was a fun little project, and I think it will look great in the area I have set aside for it. Not to get ahead of myself, but this is the first in hopefully a series of projects to create my own little “dream” office area, complete with old manuscripts, candle holders, writing desks, and quill pens. Yeah, I’m a history geek; I admit it.

Categories: General Woodworking

Video: Build a Backyard Propane Forge for Less than $100

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 09/07/2017 - 6:46am

What the heck? Why would I want a forge, I’m a woodworker! Ah, but I have had the pleasure of watching a forge in action (very cool, lots of fire and sparks!) for a number of video shoots creating tools and hardware – and it was fascinating! But I kept coming back to the issue that I don’t have a forge and it seemed like a rather large ask to […]

The post Video: Build a Backyard Propane Forge for Less than $100 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Steve Latta: Woodworking at the College Level – 360w360 E.248

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 09/07/2017 - 4:10am
 Woodworking at the College Level – 360w360 E.248

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking we hear from a woodworking professor at Thaddeus Stevens College in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. You may better know him as Steve Latta, woodworker, Fine Woodworking contributing editor and the guy who, in my opinion, brought inlay back to the forefront of woodworking. Steve is in his 20th year teaching this craft to those in college – and he’s doing a damn fine job if you look at the results.

Continue reading Steve Latta: Woodworking at the College Level – 360w360 E.248 at 360 WoodWorking.

all the woodworking is done.......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 09/07/2017 - 1:42am
The lid for the 71 box is done. This almost completes the woodworking for this box. It appears I fibbed a bit with my blog post title but I have an excuse. I should have said all the major box making woodworking is done. I still have to make some doo-dads for the irons, etc etc. I bought a 1/4" and 1/8" iron for the router today from Lee Valley. Until I get them making doo-dads for the 3 parts is on hold.

changed my mind on this
I think the best way to stow this in the box is to thread a hole and use the fence screw to secure it. That is the big rub though. I think that the fence screw is a 12-20 (not 100% sure of that) and I came up dry trying to find a tap and die in that size. I found a few promising leads but they all dried up quickly. I was surprised with that because one lead from the WWW had been posted in july.

If I can't get a tap I'll try using the screw itself to thread the wood. This is either pine or maybe fir but the wood is soft regardless of what species is it. I don't think it will be a problem using the screw as a tap.

sizing the width
The double tic marks at the far end is the middle between the sides. I lined up the joint line on the board with that and marked the groove onto the board.

rabbet laid out
I have been making the lid rabbets a 1/2" or wider and this time I made it 3/8".  A 1/4" will be buried in the groove leaving a small 1/8 gap on both sides.

started the rabbet with this plane
tried to use this one to finish it
Trying to use this plane was a failure. It took me a while to dial in the depth and then the cut wasn't so good. I didn't have enough projection of the iron on the inboard side which is important to have on a rabbet plane to work properly. This plane wasn't tracking in the first wall but making a new one. I sent it aside and I'll have to practice more with it before I try it again.

rabbets dialed in
The lid slides in and out easily. If I pick the box up the lid will slowly fall out which is what I was shooting for. By the time I'm done shellacing this, the fit will be just right. Squaring up the rear of the lid is next.

back squared up
 This plane is getting dull but it spit out a lot a nice looking full length shavings.

speed bump
The front of the box is a few frog hairs lower than the groove bottom on both sides. I tried to dial this in but it is something I am not doing good with. I erred on making it close as I could without going below the front.

the fix
I planed two shallow pass rabbets on each edge to compensate for it.

lid sawn to rough length
I still have to plane this front edge at a 45 and leave a small flat. I want some wiggle room and a strong 32nd should do it. I also don't want the front to go pass the front edge.

chamfer done
The bottom edge of the chamfer is in line with the bottom of the rabbet.

1/2" astragal on both sides
used the shavings to burnish the astragals
front of the lid is done
I planed the front of the lid in a slightly rounded way. I came in from the end to the middle from both sides until the outside edges were flush with the end of the grooves.

made the lid proud of the top
I purposely made the lid this way. The astragals will blend the sides in and a small chamfer on the back will do it there.  I marked the back where top of the box is.

lid marked
 One thing I don't want is to have is the bottom of the chamfer to dive below the top of the box.

took my time
I didn't want to have any blowout on the beads and I did pretty good there. Now I have to erase a pencil mark on end grain.

thumb catch done
I remember my first one I did. I agonized over trying to get the sweep of the oval perfect. I think that one took me over 10 minutes. This one was done in less than 2 minutes.

this box eats up a lot of real estate in Myles's tool box
Tomorrow I'll have to start something new. This toolbox needs a till or a lift out tray.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
The painting,"Arrangement in Gray and Black No. 1", by James Whistler is better know by what name?
answer - Whistler's Mother

Interpreting A Desk – The Templates

The Barn on White Run - Wed, 09/06/2017 - 6:02pm

Many, many months ago I was commissioned by a client who asked me to create an interpretation of an early 19th Century desk.  I approached the original artifact caretakers, requesting a set of the drawings I knew had been made for that artifact.  My request was declined, so my first task was to derive a working set of designs based mostly on images from the web.

About the time I was set to begin work on this project I crossed paths with an angry wheelbarrow, and the resultant broken hip left me out of action for many months.  One thing I could do was sit at my laptop and noodle up some templates.  I started with the images from the web and the handful of measurements that were also on-line and got to work.  My importing the pictures into Photoshop and distorting them I got something resembling “face on” images for the critical elevations.  Still, some was spitballing at this point with details to be resolved at a later time.

By importing these manipulated Photoshop images into a vector drawing program, in my case CorelDraw, I was able to ascertain the various measurements and contours I needed for the construction templates.  If I was either younger or more computerily cognizant I would have use SketchUp, which I believe can do most of this processing almost automatically, but at this point in my life I am trying to forget computer applications, not learn new ones.

Should you be in a place to need construction details, measurements and proportions based solely on photographs it is best to have images where the camera is square to the desired face of the furniture, at point zero on both X and Y axes, with the longest possible distance from the object .  From there it is a piece of cake to get the details darned near perfect, provided you have at least one or two firm dimensions known.  At some point upcoming I will write bout the best way to capture the images with an eye towards creating drawings, but I have not written that missive yet.

For this project I was able to derive all the dimensional and profile details I needed, so soon enough I was off to the bench.  Working in the manner to which I was accustomed from my time in the pattern shop I drew out the detailed drawing at full scale on a sheet of clean plywood.  Once I was satisfied with the results it was time to get started with the building.

But first I needed to gather the necessary lumber.  Stay tuned.

Simple and Accurate Dado Router Jig

Bob Lang's ReadWatchDo - Wed, 09/06/2017 - 9:39am
The dado joint, a channel cut in one piece of wood that holds another piece of wood, is one of the bread and butter joints in woodworking. It isn’t as charming as a dovetail joint, or as manly as a Continue reading →
Categories: General Woodworking

Tricks of the Trade: Gas-powered Plane-till Lid

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 09/06/2017 - 9:35am

I have a meager collection of handplanes made up of mostly dog-meat users. I like using planes that have history because it’s fun to think about what each might have made during the last 100 years. None of my planes are particularly nice, but I do want to keep them from getting destroyed. For a long time, my planes cluttered my workspace, got knocked around on my bench and were […]

The post Tricks of the Trade: Gas-powered Plane-till Lid appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Another Mystery Solved

The Furniture Record - Wed, 09/06/2017 - 9:16am

We have two hummingbird feeders hanging outside our breakfast area. Our cats enjoy watching them feed and I am constantly amazed by their aerobatics and dogfights (bird fights?) Seems hummingbirds don’t get along all that well.

Unfortunately, the hummingbirds prefer the cheap copper toned available from Home Depot. We have tried nice, more expensive feeders but all are rejected. Are these feeders really cheaper when they rust so quickly and need to be replaced annually?

Over the weekend, our feeders started emptying themselves overnight. 2/3 to 3/4 full at dusk and empty at dawn. Hummingbirds don’t feed that much overnight. I’ve heard that some bats might feed there but emptying them both? Suspecting leaks, I brought them in for testing and put last year’s out. In the morning, the old ones were empty with one screw-on base on the ground.

The next step was technology. I place one of my Nikons on a tripod and programmed it to take a picture every two minutes and left the outside lights on at sunset. I got a whole lot of this picture:


Two feeders, no waiting. Reflections are annoying but this ain’t art.

At 10:41, I got this:



First racoon we have seen in the eight years we’ve lived here. Deer. Opossums. Rabbits. Squirrels. Chipmunks. Cyotes, Foxes. Groundhogs. But no racoons.

Might explain what happed to all the asian pears…

DSC_8843 - Version 2

Can racoons get Type II Diabetes?


finishing up the 71 box.......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 09/06/2017 - 4:21am
It's been a wee bit chilly in my part of the universe over the past week or more and tonight is forecasted for the low 70's. The night time temps were hovering around the 55 to 60 degree mark. I wonder if the two hurricanes are screwing up the weather this far north. Irma looks like it is going to be a bitch of hurricane. I don't recall ever hearing of a cat 5 one. No gender bias implied here. Harvey was the last name and it was a female name batting next for this one.

plow plane box is done
I got 6-7 coats of shellac on this and that is sufficient for a shop box. It has a nice sheen and it should afford more than adequate protection.

inside peek
sizing the lid
I sawed off the large piece and kept the smaller one. That will make less for me to plane to thickness but still have enough to saw and fit it.

top has no twist
There is no twist but there is a small bit of cup. The two outside edges are high but the opposite face is flat.

reference face
I went straight across the long way 4 times before I got a continuous shaving going end to end. After that I crisscrossed L to R and then R to L. I finished it by planing the long way back and forth until I got continuous shavings side to side.

ran a gauge line 360
The gauge line at this corner is a little higher than the other 3. I marked this with some X's and avoided planing it until the other 3 corners matched it.

one lid planed to thickness
It isn't sized for the width yet and I'll do that tomorrow. I want this to sticker overnight before I do that.

doo-dad for the depth stop - sawed a step for the shoe
had to do some gouge work
The back of the depth shoe isn't at a right angle to the rod. It is pitched forward a little and I had to remove a bit at the back for it to lay flat on the step.

I didn't need the step but I had to do something to keep it from looking so plain.

it's a tight fit
It sticks out into the interior more than I want. This isn't where I want this neither but it is about the only spot that works. In other spots I tried, the router was in the way with putting it in or taking it out.

change two coming
I said in yesterday's blog that this was carved in stone. Tonight I broke out the stone breaker, aka the 3lb sledge.

this works

I'll keep this in the hole provided in the router for now.  When I think of something else, I'll do that. I want this in a holder so if I don't need it, it won't be flopping in the box.

fence storage
The plan is to make a half box for this to live in.

lots of stock in case I screw it up
I got the fence figured out but I'm not sure how to stow the screw and washer for it. I may have to buy a 12-20 tap because I would like to tap a hole for it and screw it into that. Of course that depends on whether or not the screw is actually a 12-20.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the largest shopping Mall in the United States?
answer - The Mall of America in Bloomington,  Minnesota (it ranks 36th in the world)

Back to School: Six Thoughts on Getting Started at Woodworking School

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 09/06/2017 - 3:00am

Across the world, students are heading back to school – and some of them are on their way to woodworking schools, like The Krenov School (my alma mater), North Bennet Street School, Center for Furniture Craftsmanship and many more. It was only a few years ago that I was gearing up for the same journey – and I have a little list of learning moments (i.e. screwups/mistakes/regrets) that I want […]

The post Back to School: Six Thoughts on Getting Started at Woodworking School appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

How to Create a Striking Continuous Grain Veneered Cabinet Edge

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 09/05/2017 - 8:47am

In response to a recent post about edge banding panels, a reader asked how I’d made the grain on a panel’s door run continuously around the corner and through to the cabinet’s side. (Above) The grain in question is striking, which makes this treatment so effective. The technique is ridiculously simple – so simple that some readers would come up with the idea themselves, then think “that can’t possibly be […]

The post How to Create a Striking Continuous Grain Veneered Cabinet Edge appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Poll: How do you handle PVA glue squeezeout cleanup?

Highland Woodworking - Tue, 09/05/2017 - 7:00am

When Matt VanDerList of Matt’s Basement Workshop was on the Wood Talk Podcast, he used to get a lot of grief about his use of exotic woods. What constituted “exotic” for Matt? Oak. Pine. Poplar.

That was about as radical as Matt would get.

And, every time he would say something about using those wood species because he was happy with those species, I would give him a virtual fist pump!

I’m an oak kind of guy, too. Red oak is my thing, although I’ve published reports on cedar and redwood projects before.

One of the challenges with oak, and other open-grained woods, is that PVA glue allowed to remain on the surface or, worse yet, soak in, will interfere with the appearance of most finishes. Everyone has his/her favorite technique for removing the glue, and we’d like to know which ones are Highland Woodworkers’ favorites.

Me? I usually go with wet rag wiping. Why? Because in the heat and humidity of deep South Mississippi, glue curing is unpredictable. While I like peeling skinned PVA, I find it difficult to get the timing right. Some days 15 minutes might be just right. Other days, come back in 30 minutes, lift the ribbon of uncured glue and a puddle ensues, spreading the mess even further (at which point I reach for the wet rag). As often as not, I forget to come back and check at 15 or 30 or 45 minutes, and then there’s a massive amount of glue to remove. For me, it’s easier to just clean it right away and be done with it.

Of course, there are those times when wet-cleaning pushes glue into the grain, and you’re still dealing with finish interference. That’s when I pull out the toothbrush.

While this is pine, and not oak, it’s an excellent example of PVA glue interfering with the look of polyurethane finish.

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Jim Randolph is a veterinarian in Long Beach, Mississippi. His earlier careers as lawn mower, dairy farmer, automobile mechanic, microwave communications electronics instructor and journeyman carpenter all influence his approach to woodworking. His favorite projects are furniture built for his wife, Brenda, and for their children and grandchildren. His and Brenda’s home, nicknamed Sticks-In-The-Mud, is built on pilings (sticks) near the wetlands (mud) on a bayou off Jourdan River. His shop is in the lower level of their home.Questions and comments on woodworking may be written below in the comments section. Questions about pet care should be directed to his blog on pet care, www.MyPetsDoctor.com. We regret that, because of high volume, not all inquiries can be answered personally.

The post Poll: How do you handle PVA glue squeezeout cleanup? appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking


The Barn on White Run - Tue, 09/05/2017 - 4:26am

One of my interests for some time has been “Every Day Carry” practices and even forums on-line discussing the stuff we have on us every day, with a special emphasis on emergency situations.  I find the ingenious creativity in manifesting the ideas to be captivating sometimes, and over-the-top zombie apocalypse silly at other times.   The current issue of Backwoods Home magazine, one of the two or three periodicals I take these days, had a feature article on the subject that prompted me to reflect on my E.D.C. in the shop.  Since pretty much everything I need is within reach or a few steps at most, the inventory is much, much smaller than when I worked in Mordor and my tactical vest was packed to the gills.


This is what I carry virtually every day, all day long when in the shop.

First off is my Victorinox Spirit multi-tool, which I carry any time I have pants on, whether in the shop or not.  Over the years I have owned and used a couple dozen multi-tools and this one is the best I’ve owned, hands down.  Certainly pricier than the $10 knock-offs at the Dollar General, but I use mine hard every day with nary a complaint from me or it.

Next is my DelVe square from Woodpeckers, invented by my friend Tom Delvechio.  Simply the perfect layout tool for the hip pocket.  I bought an extra one just in case this one gets lost or stolen.

An antique folding two-foot boxwood rule is my newest addition to the ensemble, and I just love its utility and compactness.  I picked it up for not much money at a tailgating session at MJD Tools one summer and it has been part of the kit ever since.

A 6″ Starrett machinist’s rule has been in my carry tool kit for as long as I can remember.  They never go bad nor out of fashion.

Finally, the only thing I did not have in the picture was an LED flashlight, probably because I just forgot to pull it out of my pocket.  My favorite value in this tool category is the Ozark Trail pocket flashlight that I buy in the camping section of Wally World.  I have several, and they perform admirably and seem almost indestructible.  I make use of a small flashlight usually several times a day.

That’s it.  Even in my own workshop, I have tools in my pockets all the time.


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