Hand Tool Headlines

The Woodworking Blogs Aggregator


Be sure to visit the Hand Tool Headlines section - scores of my favorite woodworking blogs in one place.  Also, take note of Norse Woodsmith's latest feature, an Online Store, which contains only products I personally recommend.  It is secure and safe, and is powered by Amazon.


General Woodworking

Bowsaws, The Next Frontier

The Barn on White Run - Mon, 01/15/2018 - 6:00am

While visiting Mark Harrell recently our conversation returned to a topic we had engaged in previously, namely that of the repertoire of saws in an 18th century Parisian workshop.  Whatever they had, Mark wants to try to make it.

The literary evidence is pretty clear that the workhorse saws in these shops were frame saws for much of the heavy dimensioning (ripping) work and bow saws for the rest, including joinery.  (Roubo makes no references to back saws)  We might tend to see bow saws as a northern implement, coming from Scandinavian and Germanic traditions, but Roubo places inordinate emphasis on their use and utility in the Paris of his time.

The variations within this theme are many, but at present I am trying to brainstorm about adapting Roubo’s images and descriptions to the tasks of a workshop in 2018.  I am starting from the premise that the saw plate Mark developed for the frame saw should serve equally well in a bow saw with the plate fixed parallel to the plane of the frame.  With that in mind I have been noodling the designs and begun replicating at least one of a pair of Roubo bowsaws (the other being a compass or “turning” saw, so noted as having a shallow blade that can both follow a curved cut and be rotated in the bow handle for greater facility) in time for demonstrating at CW next week.

Hoping for success.  Wish me luck.

got the spokeshave finished.......

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 01/15/2018 - 2:39am
For my sunday morning routine I had to go a different McDonalds for breakfast. The one 3 blocks from my house is being renovated so I had to travel almost to the end of Warwick Ave to the 24hr McDonalds. At oh dark thirty there aren't a lot of places open to get something to eat in my part of the universe. It was also 17°F (-8.3°C) so I had to eat there. It's a 12 minute ride from my house so it would have been stone cold by time I got home.

I had to do some errands and for those I had to wait until 0800 for Lowes to open and then 0900 for BJ's to open. While I was waiting for Mickey's big hand to move I did my laundry and some shellac work. I still get agitated when I have to hurry up and wait but doing something helps to calm me down. Getting the Preston chamfer spokeshave done was the only thing I was able to check off in the C column.

shellac for the 78 box
I got three coats of shellac on the box on saturday before and after supper. This morning I hit the box with steel wool and by the end of the day I had put on 4 more coats.

my Lowes haul
I snagged the last bottle of rapid fuse glue. I like this glue a lot but the last couple times I've been to Lowes it wasn't on the shelf.  The gorilla glue is for gluing the broken tote on the spare parts #4. The electrician's tape is for 'clamping' the tote. This is what the Plane Collector uses so I'm trying it too. I got three 3/4" x 2 foot by 2 foot luan plywood panels for $7 and change each. The last goodie from Lowes was a pkg of 6mm washers.

it's a good fit - thumbscrew from the Preston chamfer spokeshave
It was less then a buck for a pkg of 8. For Lowes it must be a mistake as they charge ridiculous prices for hardware.

two pieces of 1/2" plywood
The plan is to use these for the top and bottom of the cabinet.

preview of the cabinet
I am thinking of trying to make a European style cabinet. After seeing this I'm not sure I want to do that. I like face frames on my cabinets. Either with or without a face frame, I will still use the 1/2" plywood as intended.

about 27" off the deck
about 32" where it will live
I will be putting a tray on the top of this. There is a shelf and drawer here that I'm taking out and putting the contents of them in the cabinet. The drawer stuff will go in the topside tray, the chisels in a drawer, and the saws will be hung on the side of the cabinet.

all of my tool boxes from under the laundry table
The height of the tallest stack of boxes is a little over 12". The bottom right hand box holds my Lee Valley rabbet plane and it is a problem.

I'll have to make a smaller box for this
this will be going away finally
I will be putting the Record 043 plow plane box in the new cabinet. That will free up some space for a couple of new woodies in my molding plane till.

gluing up the tote
I dropped the tote and that oops gave me two parts. I am trying to figure out how I can screw this stud in to keep it aligned while I glue it.

The shortest stud I have is too long to be secured with two barrel nuts. I took one of the style of nuts I don't like and drilled a through hole in it.

I think this will work
I don't want this to be my clamp; just keep the tote aligned while the glue sets.

didn't work
As the two barrel nuts were tightened the tote shifted. Good idea but the execution killed it.

I had to drill two barrel nuts to act as spacers
I put the tote aside for now and I glued it up after lunch.

Both rods are close in size. The other one is 9.79mm and both are well undersized for a 10mm hole.

right side hole that the rod will go in
the plane body hole
my 10mm clock bit
It's a brad point bit and I need a drill bit. I tried to order a bit from Lee Valley but they only sell metric brad point bits. I couldn't find any metric drill bits on the website or in their latest catalog.

can't hurt
It isn't a deburring tool but it's all I got. This chamfering tool is chipped so I don't mind trying it on this.

still won't exit
I got the drill bit to go a little further after I used a rat tail file to remove a burr on the screw hole on the inside of the fence rod hole. I still couldn't get the drill bit to go into the hole from this side. This is all I can do with this for now. I'll order a 10mm drill bit from McMaster-Carr when I buy new 10mm rods.

I made this box in march and didn't put on any shellac
I used to not put any finish on my shop boxes but I now do. I don't know why I didn't shellac this one back then as I had started doing it way before than.

the first 078 plane box
 I'm going to keep this for the shop. I'll put some shellac on it and find a home for it.

Preston chamfer spokeshave done

back side
side view
the before pic
 All broken down and prepped for painting. I couldn't find the one I had of as I got it.

I'm not sure yet whether I'll give this Miles or keep it for myself. The only problem I have with it is there aren't any irons for it. I've been looking for one since I got it. As a chamfering tool this works very well. The fact that it is adjustable makes it a very versatile tool so maybe I should give it to Miles. It would be a relatively safe tool for him to use even at a young age.

gluing the tote up
3 pieces of tape applied
Theses three have closed up the seam and it appears to be holding. I left it like this while I made a head break and when I came back it was still together. It had not shifted and the two parts were still tight together. I put on more tape and set it by the furnace to set up overnight.

the cabinet footprint
The size of this is 22 5/8" front to back and 24 3/4" side to side. The cabinet will be no larger than this.

a lot of damage here
I am still going to try and use this for the bottom of the cabinet. I can't work around it and it will be part of the bottom somewhere. I'll try to keep it towards the back of the cabinet.

2nd piece of plywood
It is too short. I played around with it trying to maximize it but I think I'll end up buying a new quarter sheet. Maybe I can use this to make the sliding tray and the drawer.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Pinocchio had two pets named Figaro (cat) and Cleo (goldfish)?

Wood Movement

MVFlaim Furnituremaker - Sun, 01/14/2018 - 4:09pm

Over the past few months, I’ve been making these Ohio signs and selling them in my wife’s booth. They’re a simple thing  to make. Just cut the wood in the shape of Ohio, then glue and staple the pieces to a plywood back. Originally I used old pallet wood to make the signs, but the past few batches I made them with old fence boards.


Last week, when I was helping my wife moving things around in her booth, she told me that some of the signs had warped. Worried, I grabbed a few of the signs to look at them. Because we had such a hard cold spell, the antique store was kicking up heat to stay warm. Apparently, the dry heat sucked all the moisture from the signs making them bend up. Even the top of an old bench my wife was selling warped.


When examining the sign, I realized I made two rookie mistakes. The first mistake I made was that I painted the wrong side of the fence board. I should have fastened the wood crown-down so that the board wouldn’t warp upward. The second mistake I made was that when I fastened the boards on the plywood, I spread glue all over the plywood back making the wood unable to expanded and contracted. Embarrassing to admit I know. When I first made these signs, I made them from old pallet wood that was a lot narrower than the wide fence board I used here. I thought my wood was dry enough to make them in the same process, but I was sorely mistaken.


Wanting to fix the sign, I ripped apart the plywood back and removed all the staples from the wood.


After cleaning the back of the pieces, I saw how the widest board on the sign was warping in conjunction with the others.



I decided to shave off the high spot in the middle with my scrub plane so the warping wouldn’t be as noticeable when I remade the sign.


Then, instead of spreading glue all over the plywood back, I laid a bead of glue down the center of each piece of wood so the wood could move. I then attached the plywood back to the pieces with 1/4″ crown 5/8″ long staples.


With everything back together, I was happy how the sign laid flat again. I really don’t mind if the boards warp a little bit. After all, the sign is supposed to look old and rustic. I just don’t want the whole thing to curl.


Join Profiled Parts in SketchUp

Bob Lang's ReadWatchDo - Sun, 01/14/2018 - 11:58am
I don’t mind answering questions from readers, because good questions often become useful blog posts. In this instance, the question wasn’t quite clear so I’m showing two solutions. One way to solve problems in SketchUp is to consider how it Continue reading →
Categories: General Woodworking


The Barn on White Run - Sun, 01/14/2018 - 7:01am

This giant banner at Bad Axe Toolworks made me laugh out loud.  You know Roubo is catching on when the yardstick for a tool is its ability to cut the dovetailed leg tenons for a Plate 11 workbench.

this is strange.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 01/14/2018 - 2:14am
Still in a bit of shock about what I found with my plow planes, especially so with the Record 044. I got a few comments on that post and Steve made one that I looked into.  He suggested that I check the fit of the record 044 fence rod holes with a 10mm drill bit. I did that and I was surprised by what I found.

It looks to be about the same size as the fence rods
Fits like a hand in a glove. Almost no slop and no wiggle at all. A couple maybes here. This is a Frankenstein plow that was missing it's original rods and there were substituted from a Stanley. They came with the original plow but it had been caught in the switch from imperial to metric. Sloppy QA? I think even allowing for machining tolerances, the rods I have now are undersized.

The drill only goes in up to about where the screw is and no further. I didn't think to check and see if the screw captured what was in there.

won't fit
It is the same in both holes. No go, no fit, and this sucks. Why won't it fit and pass all the way through? And why can't I insert it on this side of the hole? Maybe this was used to size the rods that came with this plow?

I looked up 10mm rod stock on McMaster-Carr (another tip from Steve) and they have a lot of choices. They have chrome plated rods starting in 1 foot increments. I would like to get that but I'm not sure I have anything capable of cutting it. My second choice is 10mm A2 steel rod that I can get in a 5 1/8" long length. That should be good enough to use for fence rods. But first I'll have to fix the no passing through the hole annoyance.

both ends beveled - Stanley 078 box
I would like to write that I did this on purpose to see what it looked like. Or that I beveled it because the lid was proud of the top of the box and I didn't want to thin the lid. What happened was I wasn't paying attention and I beveled the wrong end. Ending on a positive note, I was curious about doing a double ended bevel. Now I'm no longer curious.

scraps on found on the deck to fill the gap
The left one is too thin but the bigger one is just right on this end.

it fell inside
I cut and fitted the filler but it got pushed into the box when I slid the lid in. There will be a line here from that but I think that is a better choice than this gap.

time to see if everything will fit
I will have to take this down to parade rest and put each part in the box separately.

everything fits and I can close the lid
I don't like all the parts flopping around
won't fit - needs to be trimmed a wee bit
This will keep the plane from shifting and moving in the box.

part one for the fence rod holder
I bought some more fence rods and I'll need a place in the box to keep them secure.

part #2
This piece of 1/8" plywood will be the back of the fence rod holder.

glued and cooking
I glued the holders to the 1/8" plywood and I'll glue the 1/8 plywood to the box once it has set up.

holder for the fence
The slot in the front is where the 90 on the fence is and there is a rabbet on the back. The fence has to be stowed horizontally.

the side of the box will be the back of the rabbet
glued in place
glad I checked it
The plane will only fit in the box this way with the handle insert. I had to move the fence holder over to the left.

making a holder for the depth stop
I made the round cutout at the top with my knife and a chisel. The R/L rounded curves at the bottom I also did mostly with my knife and some clean up work with a 1/4" chisel.

almost done
A little tighter on the top left than I would like but it works. A couple coats of shellac and then I can call it 100% done.

Stanley 131B came today
It's a monster size ratcheting driver. This has a lot of weight and mass to it. I could probably use it to defend myself if the zombie apocalypse happens.

I thought the Craftsman one was big
I found out that the Craftsman driver was made for Sears by Miller Falls. Still not crazy about the plastic handle but I do like it other than that.

holder I put on hold
This was for the Craftsman but I decided to wait until I got the Stanley. The Stanley ate a lot of Wheaties and is too big for it. I'll toss these parts in the scrap box.

difference in the drivers
The Stanley only came with the flat driver and the business end that holds it in the screwdriver is different than the Craftsman one.

kind of fits
The phillips bit is in the Stanley and it won't come out. I didn't try driving a screw with it.

it wiggles and moves a bit
The diameter of the phillips bit is smaller than the Stanley bit. I think the Stanley is 5/16" if I remember it right and the Craftsman is a 1/4".

not getting done today
I will have to touch up the paint some in a few spots. I lost some when I sanded the faces.

body done and the wings were last
#4 plane totes
The original one is the far left one with the middle and far right ones being my spares. The spares fit but I wont be using them. The middle one is larger than the original ones as is the right one too.

middle one
It is rosewood but I'm not sure what the finish or what is on it. It is thick, hard, and shiny. I'm betting on it being epoxy. Guess number two would be lacquer but I don't have lacquer thinner to test on this.

the last one
I had forgotten about this tote. Someone had made the hole for the barrel nut deeper than what it should have been. I don't know why that was done? They compensated for that by putting a billion washers under the nut to make up depth. I shitcanned the washers and put a wooden dowel in their place. This will probably never be used but it could work as replacement until a more suitable one is found.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that President James K Polk was the first president to be photographed?

Warehouse Sale at Bridge City! Build a Brass and Rosewood Try Square

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sun, 01/14/2018 - 2:00am

Editor’s note: This article ran in the October 2011 issue of PWM and we are resurfacing it because John is clearing out some bins of blanks in a warehouse sale on his site. I’ve included part of the article here and the build is detailed in the PDF of the issue. This is not a sponsored post, we just wanted to share a great article that paired with his sale […]

The post Warehouse Sale at Bridge City! Build a Brass and Rosewood Try Square appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Not Your Daughter’s Cradle. Or Son’s.

The Furniture Record - Sat, 01/13/2018 - 2:34pm

I saw this interesting cradle at an auction recently:

American Primitive Cherry Cradle


This lot has sold for $80.

Description: 19th century, two part form, dovetailed cradle with iron rod swing supports on a boot-jack foot base with metal handles.

Size: 32 x 40 x 15 in.

Condition: Later metal handles; surface scratches; small shrinkage cracks.


Through tenons on the stretchers, not that interesting.

What is more interesting it the method of suspension of the cradle body:


Suspended by a pair of hand-forged hooked metal discs.


Another view showing a metal bearing driven in to the stand.

What was confusing was the description of this being a “dovetailed cradle”. I believe that I am eminently qualified to find dovetails, yet I found none. Look at the cradle for yourself:


If there were dovetails, they would be here.

P1010873 - Version 2

There be nails and split wood but no dovetails. Unless they are really thin pins. Typical of all four corners.

I am truly disturbed by the apparent discrepancy between the written and the observed. I know that the people that write auction descriptions are highly trained experts that in many states are licensed or certified. Believe me. I am starting to believe that the fault is in me. The dovetails are there and I just can’t see them. I hope that’s the case. I would hate to see someone lose the job over this…

Making a Chair from a Tree

Anne of All Trades - Sat, 01/13/2018 - 8:55am

Building a Windsor-style rocking chair with Greg Pennington at Pennington Windsor Chairs was, to date, my favorite woodworking project. It opened up a new, very physical, very engaging side of woodworking I hadn’t before experienced. I loved using a wedge and sledge hammer to split the tree. Not only did it make me feel strong, it also helped me to better understand how wood works and how to get the most strength possible out of a single piece of wood.


Making a chair is, I think for most woodworkers, a major benchmark for progression in their craft. Having seen the Patriot, and being quite comfortable in the realms of square furniture, I really had no intention of ever making a chair. It seemed like it was a whole other skill and toolset than I currently possessed, and I am always wary of casting my net too widely and bringing no genuine knowledge or practiced skill to a craft. As they say, a jack of all trades is a master of none! That is- until I was offered the chance to take a class with some of my dearest friends in the shop of renown chairmaking instructor Greg Pennington.


For me, woodwork has always been motivated far more by relationship than by finished projects. I’ve found the best way to get to know people deeply is by joining them doing something they truly love. My journey as a woodworker started at my grandfather’s workbench. He was a pretty quiet guy most of the time, but he came alive in his woodworking shop. I loved my grandpa, and spending time with him meant spending time pulling and straightening nails, sweeping sweet cedar shavings off his shop floor, or just watching him work. After my grandfather’s passing, when I was twelve my love for woodworking was re-awakened just a six years ago as a way to spend time hanging out at my sister’s house and getting to know my new brother-in-law as he taught me about using handtools to build furniture. Woodworking then became the connection point for another precious older gentleman, 97 years young, who would go on to become an adopted grandpa of sorts  and mentor me further. Then I found the maker community on Instagram, which opened up a whole other world of deep frienships with other folks passionate about making things with their hands. I met leather workers, farmers, musicians and blacksmiths, and my desire to see their eyes light up when talking about something they truly loved led me to start tinkering in those crafts as well.


I mention all this because yes, I built a chair, and yes, sitting and rocking in a chair I quite literally found within a tree stump in just a matter of weeks with a few handtools feels pretty awesome, but far more awesome was spending a week learning from a master. Greg loves what he does, and his eyes sparkle when he talks about every step and technique that bring an heirloom quality chair out of a fallen oak tree. The week I spent in Nashville at Greg’s school was quite literally one of the best weeks of my life. Greg was an incredibly patient and skilled instructor. We worked hard with our hands, we talked about everything under the sun, we drank beer, and we laughed until our ribs were sore. And, at the end of it all, somehow, I’d become a better woodworker with a greater understanding of how wood works, and I got to bring home a chair.


This project involved a lot of firsts for me, first time using a shavehorse for it’s intended purpose, which was especially helpful a few weeks later when it came time to build several for the woodworking school I work at. It was my first time riving wood, and I learned about how to predict and correct for grain runout. I learned how to properly use a spokeshave, how to be braver when roughing out stock because it results in so much LESS work later, how to turn square stock into an octagon and then round, and how to drill compound angles with space lasers. I got way more creative with securing round stock in vises designed to hold square stock, I learned how to make and use wedges effectively, and I confirmed that the sanding and finishing process of a chair is just as miserable and loathsome a task with chairmaking as it is with every other woodworking I’ve done in the past.


One thing I really liked about chairmaking is how many of the tools can be made with some rudimentary knowledge of blacksmithing. So, of course, as is always the case for me, In completing this project, I somehow added about fifteen others to the “someday” list, so look for those in the coming months and weeks.

Check out my new YouTube video on my chairmaking experience by clicking below!

**Photos in this article are by Fell Merwin, and by Melissa Morrison**

I Came. I Sawed. I Collaborated.

The Barn on White Run - Sat, 01/13/2018 - 6:07am

My recent trek around Flyover Country included an intersection between my path to my home town in southern Minnesota (the tropical part) and LaCrosse, Wisconsin, home to Mark Harrell and his ambitious enterprise Bad Axe Tool Works.  I’ve been collaborating with Mark for some time on the development of a frame saw/sash saw  with the promise that he would put one in my hands.

As the owner of two c. 1800 four-foot frame saws I was delighted to share the particulars about them with anyone who wanted to know.  Their details are spectacular, from the hand forged hardware to the forged plates in near-perfect condition.  (by that I mean there are no kinks or missing teeth, there was plenty of surface rust and the teeth needed touching up)

Like other saw makers, Mark contacted me some time ago and I took the time to talk with him at length about the vintage saws I have, in addition to the diminutive version I made for myself.  Mark was particularly interested in a model halfway between my vintage big ones and my new smaller one, and we worked out the details over many emails and phone calls, an interchange I welcome from any tool maker who wants my two cents worth.  To this point my only fee is that I get one of the tools in question if they ever go into production.  I think Bad Axe might have had this model at Handworks 2017, but I was so busy I could never get to their station once they got set up, so this was my chance.

Accompanied by The Oldwolf, Derek Olsen, we arrived late-morning.  And the saw geek-dom commenced.  Behind this modest door and awning is a buzzing hive of saw making.

Mrs. Barn and I got a quick tour of the facility, getting the opportunity to meet and greet each of the the sawmaking elves there.

I was especially impressed with the classroom they have set up there for saw making and sharpening workshops.  Mark definitely has the leads for mondo saw sharpening vises and setters.

Then we got down to the real fun as Mark brought out several models of saws for me to play with.  I already own two Bad Axe saws, including a custom made dovetail saw I commissioned and that has now become ensconced in their product line.  Under Mark’s watchful eye the playing commenced, and it was glorious!

Our exploration of the topic continued almost non-stop and we were torn between talking about saws, and sawing.

Then came the “official” purpose of the visit,  taking delivery of my own Bad Axe frame saw based on Roubo, my old saws, and my new one, with a bit of Bad Axe special sauce tossed in for good measure.

It performed perfectly right out of the box and will be integrated into my shop work as soon as it gets home.

More about the visit in the next post.

PopWood Playback #1 | Top Woodworking Videos of the Week

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 01/13/2018 - 6:00am

Episode #2 is live on YouTube. We had a couple of editors picks and a couple viewer submissions this week. I sincerely appreciate the great response to the first episode and the viewer feedback has been encouraging! I am happy to share Shawn Graham‘s video from his new series of daily tips and Huy’s sit-stand desk that integrates his finger joint jig. Check out our picks of the week over […]

The post PopWood Playback #1 | Top Woodworking Videos of the Week appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

checked all my plow planes.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 01/13/2018 - 12:01am
Houston something is screwy on planet earth. I am having a problem with my plow planes, please advise.  While I waited for Houston to respond, I checked all my plow planes to see how they stacked up. I was a wee bit shocked at what I found. My plows are all metal and I was expecting them to behave a lot better than what I saw.

I did 3 checks on each plane. #1 was checking the fence rods for wiggle. All had some with the Record 044 being the worse and the Lee Valley being the best closely followed by the Record 043. Check #2 was looking at the parallelism between the skates and the fences. Good point here as all planes passed this. The final check, #3, was did the fence stay parallel to the skate at a distance of a 1/2"?

Record 044
 This plow is dead nuts parallel as were all the other planes when checked for this.

used a 1/2" set up bar
I used the setup bar to set the fence at the toe and tighten down on both fence rod screws.

then I checked the heel of the fence
Doesn't fit and it isn't even close. It's beyond measuring it in frog hairs it's off so much.

almost an 1/8" off from the toe
This plow was the absolute worse of the lot for parallel away from the skate. I tried a couple of other settings and they were all off about an 1/8 inch toe to heel. At least the error appeared to be consistent.

setting the heel to a 1/2" on the 044
This was not that easy to do considering it is only an 1/8". It took a fair bit of force to push the fence at the heel end away from the skate out to a 1/2". The next check will be seeing if once I have it set parallel, will it hold it as I plow multiple grooves. Maybe the fence slipping is why I am getting my gap on the second groove? Checking the fence/skate measurement is not something I usually do as I plow.

Record 043
 I got the front set to a 1/2" and tightened the fence rod screws.

it's wider at the heel
It is probably a couple pieces of paper thickness of being off. Much better than it's bigger brother the 044.

I am aware of the fence slipping along with the depth shoe slipping too. Checking the screws between grooves is something I do out of habit with this plane. I haven't had any problems with the grooves as long as I keep an eye on the fence rod screws.

Lee Valley plow
Set the toe at a 1/2". The Lee Valley was the easiest one to set the 1/2" on.

not perfect, but the closest one
It is a slip fit on the toe and the heel but the heel is a frog hair or two wider.

Record 405
This plow has a rosewood fence and I wasn't too sure how flat and straight it was. It laid up flat on the skate and I didn't see any light between them. This plane is a PITA to nudge a frog hair in or out. It took me a while to get the 1/2" dialed in on the toe.

it's looser at the heel
When I first got this plane I almost put it away until I figured out that the fence was moving on me in use. The toe to heel isn't to to bad but there is a difference. In past use with this plane I haven't seen any problems with the grooves. Again, that was only as long as I kept checking the screws were tight and hadn't slipped.

The Lee Valley is #1. Easy to set up and use and the fence maintains parallel to skate the best. None of the planes were perfect with the parallelism but it was the closest one to it. I just got this one so I don't have a lot of time on the pond with it.

The Record 043 comes in second. It can be a bit finicky setting the iron but once it is set, it seems to hold without any further checking. All planes didn't have any problems with the iron slipping in use. I like this for plowing grooves on small stock. It shines doing that. The fence on this plane slips too but not as badly as the others.

The Record 405 is in third place. It is a multi-purpose plane and I bought it mostly to make grooves. This was my first 'plow plane' and it served me well. I stumbled and learned a lot using this plane. It hasn't gotten a lot of use since my acquisitions of other plow planes.

The Record 044 is dead last. I realized today that Paul Sellers uses a Record 044 in his woodworking videos. I doubt that he has the problems I am having. I tend to be brain dead about these things and my stubborn streak had already kicked in. It will be a while before I give up trying to figure out how to get this plane to perform as advertised. If I can't, I'll buy a Lee Valley for my grandson and pass this one on.

new bottom stock
This is a new piece of 1/8" plywood 12 x 24 inches. The length of the box is almost 12" and I will allow for an strong 16th overhang on all four sides.

lots of wiggle room on this bottom
fitting the top before I glue the bottom on
planing the rabbets
ubiquitous blurry pic
What the blurry pic is trying to show is a thin web of wood at the bottom of the groove.

shallow rabbet on the bottom of the lid for that thin web
fitting the lid
I took my time here because I need a good fit due to the width/depth of the groove and the thin chunk of wood at the top. It was plane two strokes and check the fit. It took a lot of dance steps to reach the back and get my ticket punched.

I think I got the side to side
it is tight to the top of the groove on both sides
I didn't plane anymore on the bottom rabbets. All the plane and fit was done on the tops of the rabbets.

wee bit past half way
The right side has clearance but the left is still tight to the top of the groove. I planed the back of the rabbet on the left one until the lid fit.

fitted - slides in and out easily
I did something different with this box. I tried to keep the rabbet as small as I could. I am happy with the left one but the right one I had to plane it a bit wider.

wooden astragal plane fit in the rabbet
laid out and chopped my thumb catch
big gap here
I am entertaining gluing a filler in here.

the pencil line is the thickness of the filler
I may have a few scraps on the deck that I can use for this. I'll pick them up and check them tomorrow.

bottom glued on and cooking
When I got home form work today it was 58°F (14.4°C). It is supposed to dip down to freezing overnight and by then the glue should have cooked . The furnace kicking it will be the icing on the cake.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the most binge watched TV show is the Game of Thrones?

Dropping In On Oldwolf

The Barn on White Run - Fri, 01/12/2018 - 2:42pm

A recent trip to the Midwest for a variety of family gatherings provided a chance to drop in on Derek Olsen of Oldwolf Workshop fame.  Derek’s is a fairly recent entrance into my orbit, but our friendship is fast and strong.   He was first among the multitude of friends who volunteered to help with the 2015 HO Studley exhibit, and his account in The Bank of Don is brimming.

The stop for fellowship was a delightful one as you might expect.

Derek proudly showed his impressive library of furniture history books, his shrine to Studley, and his still-in-development shop in the garage next to where he and Mrs. Oldwolf moved in recent years.

After our time there, we headed down the road (actually only a few blocks) to some time of saw geek-dom at Bad Axe.

But that’s for the next post.

Book Giveaway: ICDT Woodworking Projects

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 01/12/2018 - 4:59am

I’m currently editing a new book in the “I Can Do That!” series of products. Authored by the ICDT video series host Chad Stanton, the new book includes 20 great projects including coffee tables, nightstands, bookcases and even a rocking chair – all built in the ICDT tradition with an affordable kit of tools and materials you can easily find at your local home center. The book will be available […]

The post Book Giveaway: ICDT Woodworking Projects appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

working on the 044.......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 01/12/2018 - 12:35am
The plan was to pick up the 044 this weekend and figure out what I am doing wrong then. Thinking about what may have been the problem kept echoing in the brain bucket all day. When I got home tonight I tried a couple of things that were quick and easy to do. I'm still scratching my bald spot on a couple and I might have figured out a couple. Only long term results will  prove them right.

the 78 box
I am hoping that I have enough meat left to hold and keep the lid in place.

the Record 044 box
A 1/4" groove with roughly the same amount of meat left.

It's as tight as I can get it
This is the way I left it from yesterday. I went to tighten it expecting it to be loose and it wasn't. I can't pull the rod back out but at the same time I can move it L/R.

rod pushed away - see the gap
rod pushed the opposite way - gap on the opposite side now
size of the rods are the same
hole is about .01 larger
I am not a machinist so I don't know if this would be an allowable tolerance. The other arm isn't nearly as wiggly nor does it have the same gaps. Maybe this is a deliberate machining step?

movement in the far one and a lot less in the near one
making sure the fence is parallel to the skate
I assumed since this plow has two arms, that once the fence thumbscrews are tightened, it would be parallel. Not so with this plow. Repeated loosen and tighten cycles all yielded a taper with the high water mark at the toe and the low water at the heel.

no more wiggle in either arm
This surprised me. Even without the fence tightened down on the arms, there was no movement in the fence rods. Part of the machining design of the tool?

first groove started
I went L to R monitoring the fence contact with the edge. I'm still batting 1.000 on the first groove.

almost a 1/4"
a 32nd less in the middle
same at the end
I thought that this would be the opposite of what I got. Maybe I'm not correlating this in my mind the correct way.

groove run #2
Fence is off the edge. I didn't see this happening. I sensed it more that seeing it at first. I had a build up of shavings and when I cleared them I saw this.

the fence is still parallel to the skate
swapped out the rods
I am trying out the rods from the Record 405 in the Record 044. They measure the same and I have the same wiggle problem with them. But with the fence on, the wiggling is gone.

changing my hand position
This is how I've been holding my left hand on the plow. My forefinger resting on the fence, thumb on the fence thumb screw and remaining fingers wrapped around the rod. I am thinking that maybe when I come from the R going to the L that I am applying pressure and cocking the fence somehow.

new way of holding and applying pressure
This way doesn't feel as good as the other way but I am going to try it.

appears to be working better
Got the groove started L to R and I am still tight against the edge. It has been about here that I see a gap between the fence and the edge of the stock.

tight on the L
tight in the middle -ish area
 tight at the right and keeping the throat clear
I normally keep the shavings where they spill out. This time I've been keeping the throat clear so I can see if and when the fence goes off the edge. I plowed two more grooves and both came out good. I plowed both grooves without any problems. The fence stayed where it should have and my grooves were straight and square.

Two grooves don't mean I solved this but it is a start. Only repeated making of good grooves will tell me that.

flushed the pins/tails and plugged my holes
lid rough sawn to length and width
I'll sticker the lid and do the fitting and trimming tomorrow.

I knew I should have left the shop
I wasn't going to saw out the bottom but I tried to squeeze it in. I also tried to saw out the lid with almost no over hang this time. Sawing on the wrong side of the line removed what little wiggle room I had. I caught that half way through the cut. I'll try it again tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a full moon is ten times brighter than a half moon?

Clothes Maketh The Man?

Inside the Oldwolf Workshop - Thu, 01/11/2018 - 12:42pm

I have a new phenomenon in my life. It's called the gym. I've never really "worked out" in my entire life and always relied on being just a naturally strong farm boy, but it's part of the suggested post-op program and I'm actually enjoying it. Earlier this week as I was changing into my workout clothes and putting in my headphones (Rage Against The Machine radio) I experienced a connection with the preparation and what I was about to do.

I started to think about the other times in my life I have the same feeling. Most notably I've spent decades culturing the state of mind that accompanies wrapping my body in armor and strapping a sword to my hip. Whether or not there's any combat demonstration, just putting on the armor brings out a side of my personality that is more forceful, decisive and authoritative. I link it to wearing the armor through years combat competition and demonstrations where hesitation can equal loss and possibly injury to yourself or your opposition.

I have the same experience when I go to work at the hospital. In the OR I wear scrubs. The act of putting those on signals the upcoming expectations of the surgeons I work for. Furthermore when I don the sterile surgical gown and gloves this becomes an armor of it's own as I enter into what is kind of a different world with new rules of sterile conscience, boundaries, and mental compartmentalization come into play.

There are routines we all use to align our mind to the events about to take place before us, but also wearing a different costume can course correct a practiced state of mind. It's true that people will often behave differently a suit and tie than a ratty Metallica T-shirt. It seems superficial, but we are all superficial creatures at heart.

All this comes back to the thoughts I had as I headed into the weight room and started my new stretching routine. I don't have a costume for working in the shop. I don't really have a specific routine that signals "game on" to my mind and attitude. When my shop was a twenty minute drive from my bed I had that journey as prep time and I was very productive but the last few years of having my shop less than twenty yards from my bed has broken down the routine and the mindset. I'm more easily distracted and I have a large number of other things I can do (sometimes should do) easily at my fingertips.

To that end I'm going to try and make a change. I ordered a new shop apron, not a fancy custom one, a cheap POS that was probably sewn in a sweatshop. I've never liked wearing a shop apron much in the past, especially when they had pockets, I hated pockets in an apron. But many of my other clothing choices are evolving these days as I more from "if it actually fits it'll have to be good enough" to "do I want to wear this." My experience with a shop apron may evolve too. Maybe I'll love pockets now, maybe I'll like wearing the apron. This one will be easy enough to modify if I want and not feel bad about the bucks I've spent.

Once I get, if I get, acquainted with what I like or don't, I'll know what to shop for in a better made version.

What do you do to get yourself in the right state of mind for the shop?  I'm curious to hear other strategies.

Ratione et Passionis
Categories: General Woodworking

Bits & Bit Stock

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 01/11/2018 - 12:00pm
Bits & Bit Stock

I just posted a new presentation by Ron Herman for members at 360Woodworking.com. Way back in 2017 (sure seems like a long time ago, huh?) Ron did a video on braces and drills. The new release, Bits & Bit Stock dovetails into the 2017 presentation.

While his short video is packed with great hand-tool information, as is always the case, what I found particularly interesting about this video is how in-depth Ron gets as he differentiates between Jennings and Irwin bracing bit patterns – one is faster when excavating a hole, but that increased excavation comes at a price.

Continue reading Bits & Bit Stock at 360 WoodWorking.

Video: Buying Router Bits

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 01/11/2018 - 6:00am
router bits

I recently went in search of an 1/8″ slot-cutting router bit that I needed that day. Home Depot was close and I left with my bit. But rather than buy a single bit, I ended up buying a $50 kit with 15 router bits. I didn’t need all of the bits – already having many of them – but it was the only way to get the bit I needed […]

The post Video: Buying Router Bits appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

something is awry......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 01/11/2018 - 12:57am
Awry is the word to use in polite company for this problem. In my shop it was what the #@!(%&;**%$@!!%^(&;^##) is wrong with this plow plane? I used the Record 044 again today and the results were less than pleasing. I plowed the grooves by starting at the left end and working backwards. First groove was good but the second one went south on me.

groove #2
 Starting end of the groove on the second one. The outside wall is thin at this end.

right side end is thicker
Houston, we have a gap
Something escaped me here and I don't know what it was. There is a gap along the entire edge where as when I started this the fence was up tight on the edge. I thought I was tight against the edge L/R for at least the first couple of passes.

I can see a difference the outside walls - one is tapered and one is parallel
I can not get the fence up tight against the edge and have the skate in the bottom of the groove. The skate should be ride in the bottom of the groove up close against the inboard wall of the groove. With the skate where it belongs, the fence should be tight against the edge. Not here sports fans.

first thought was the skate or the fence isn't straight
A hair over 3/8ths at this end.

a 16th off on this end
The fence is not parallel to the skate. Now, the question is why isn't it parallel with the skate?

back rod is square
Both the skate and the fence are flat and straight along their entire lengths.

front rod is off square
I tried to make another groove in some scrap and ended up with crap. Try as I might, I couldn't keep the fence up against the edge as I plowed the groove going left to right. So I thought this was the problem but I'm not sure. My first groove in the box was spot on but the second one and the third practice one were both toast. Something went wrong after the first groove and before or during the second one.

When I checked the front rod again, I noticed that it was wobbling in the hole. I checked the screw securing it and it was a bit loose. I have had fence securing screws loosen on my other plow planes making similar looking grooves. I was a wee bit discouraged after this so I set the plow aside for now. I'll revisit this on the weekend and I'll check out my loose screw theory.

I fixed the grooves in the box on the tablesaw because I am not making a new side nor a new box. My groove is a lot wider than I wanted it but that is what it is. The top web is thinner than what I would do but in order to even out the grooves, that is what I ended up with.

I glued, squared the box, and set the box by the furnace to cook. It had just started to make steam so I at least lucked into that.

#4 parts plane
This cost me $30 and I have spent that and more just for an iron and a chipbreaker. I am taking a woodworking class in June and I'll need a smoother. I'll rehab this one for that trip. I feel better taking this rather than one my shop planes. If it gets lost, broken, or stolen, I'm only out a few dollars.

most #4 irons are about 8 inches long
Lots of blade left to sharpen on this iron.

badly pitted but mostly away from the edge
There is a little pitting along the edge of the back side of the iron at the bevel. I am hoping that I will be able to lap it out. If I can't, this iron is toast.

tote is cracked almost 360
still connected on this side
The Plane Collector uses gorilla glue for his tote and knobs repairs. I'll have to get some when I go to Lowes.

first time for everything
I've never had this stud come off in any of my previous plane rehabs. The brass adjuster knob is stuck on the stud and it looks like I'm in for some fun getting the knob off and the stud back on.

japanning looks to be close to 100%
There is one rust spot on the cross brace just in the front of the throat. Other than that it looks like some simple green and a good scrubbing will be all this needs.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know it takes 17 muscles to smile  (this muscle count depends upon your source, it goes from a low of 6 to a high of 62. 17 was about the average but no one knows the exact number)

Carpenters’ bowling alley expenses

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Wed, 01/10/2018 - 6:09pm

I’m supposed to be putting together 3 lectures and planning 2 demonstrations. And finishing an article. And more. So I’m susceptible to distraction tonight. While looking for slides, I ran across these old notes I took about 15 years ago. Many years ago, I bought a few volumes of the Records of the Worshipful Company of Carpenters. An extravagant purchase, but with some great details about their goings-on. Here’s a snippet, I wrote a “translation” in parentheses for the many folks who might not be so nimble at deciphering the original:

Bower Marsh, editor, Records of the Worshipful Company of Carpenters, vol 4, Warden’s account book, 1546-1571

payd to Rychard burdn for iij plankes for the bowlyng ale xviijd  (paid to Richard Burden for 3 planks for the bowling alley, 18 pence)

payd for iiij lode of funders yearthe & the caryag for the bowlyng ale vs vjd  (paid for 4 loads of founders earth and the carriage for the bowling alley, 5 shillings, 6 pence)

payd to ij laborars for a day & di for caryeng owte of the funders yerthe in to the strett Redy for ye cartes & for caryeng yt in to or well yard xviijd

(paid to 2 laborers for a day & a half for carrying out of the fuller’s earth into the street ready for the carts & for carrying it in to our well yard – 17 pence)

payd for iiij lod of sope ahysses & the caryag iijs xd (paid for 4 loads of soap ashes and the carriage 3 shillings 10 pence)

payd for v busschelles of howse ahysses for the bowlyng ale xd (paid for 5 bushels of house ashes for the bowling alley 10 pence)

payd to ij men for the makyng of the bowlyng aly xxjs xjd  (paid to 2 men for the making of the bowling alley 21 shillings 11 pence)

Randle Holme’s description of bowling, from 1688 is:

Bowling is a Game, or recreation which if moderately used very healthfull for the body, and would be much more commendable then it is, were it not for those swarms of Rooks, which so pester Bowling greens, where in three things are thrown away by such persons, besides the Bowls, viz: Tyme, Money, and Curses, and the last ten for one.
Seuerall places for Bowling.
First, Bowling greens, are open wide places made smooth and euen, these are generally palled or walled about.
Secondly, Bares, are open wide places on Mores or commons.
Thirdly, Bowling-alleys, are close places, set apart in made more for privett persons, than publick uses.
Fourthly, Table Bowling, this is, Tables of a good length in Halls or dineing roomes, on which for exercise and diuertisement gentlemen and their assosiates bowle with little round balls or bullets.

Here’s Jan Steen’s skittle players, not technically bowling. But what we in the US think of as bowling these days.

Randle Holme again, describing the types of bowls:

Several sorts of Bowles.
Where note in Bowling the chusing of the Bowls is the greatest cunning, for
Flat Bowles, are best for close Narrow alleys.
Round Byassed Bowles for open grounds of advantage.
Bowles as round as a ball for green swarths that are plain and Levell.
Chees-cake bowles, which are round and flat like cheeses.
Jack Bowles, little bowles cast forth to bowl att, of some termed a Block.
Studded Bowles, such as are sett full of pewter nayles, and are used to run at streight Markes.
Marvels, or round Ivory balls, used by gentlemen to play on long tables, or smooth board Romes.

I saw these bowlers during my trip to England a few years back. I think this was near Royal Leamington Spa

Here is a 17th-century bowling ball, found during Boston’s famous Big Dig:

Read about it here: http://www.sec.state.ma.us/mhc/mhcarchexhibitsonline/crossstreetbacklot.htm 



Subscribe to Norse Woodsmith aggregator - General Woodworking