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General Woodworking

Small Shop CNC: A Class of Machines Designed to Fit

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 02/18/2017 - 5:00am

If you’re at the point to where you’re at least thinking about the idea of adding a CNC to your shop, then you’ve likely done some research. If that’s the case then you’ve certainly noticed there’s a huge range of sizes and prices of machines to consider.  With CNC routers from as small as 12” x 18” to as large as 5’ x 10’ in size, and prices from a few […]

The post Small Shop CNC: A Class of Machines Designed to Fit appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

took a partial day off..........

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 02/18/2017 - 2:02am
No oh dark thirty trips to Lowes or Home Depot this morning. Instead of that I slept in because the peepers failed open at 0130. There isn't a lot of quality entertainment on the boob tube that early in the morning. I did get to watch a NOVA program on origami that was interesting. I don't remember when I finally fell back to sleep but the peepers didn't fail open again until 0600.

I got started on installing the bottom cabinets but I still don't have any installed. I found my high and low spots, struck some lines, stood around looking at it, and took a whole lot of breaks. I had some errands to run so my wife and I decided to do them and go out for lunch.

During lunch we decided to make a left turn on the counter top. My wife was going to order it from Home Depot. Here's the kicker - if we get just the counter top, it's $700. They will deliver it and haul away the old one. That's it.

If I want them to install it, cut out for the sink, and attach the plumbing, the cost is now $3000. WTF? It shouldn't cost an extra $2000 to do this work which shouldn't take more then two hours, 3 at the most. Lowes is basically the same too. No one will do the whole nine yards without me coughing up a wheelbarrow full of money.

I will be doing the sink install myself. As much as I hate contorting my old, fat body to maneuver under the sink, I refuse to pay that kind of money. I will also be making my own counter top. My wife and I decided (mostly her) that it should be tiled. It's bit more work for me but I feel better taking it on than paying the exorbitant fees.

got real lucky here
 The corner cabinet just happens to land on the high spot. I find it easier to work out of a corner high going to low than the other way around.

an inch difference on the right
The top line is the level line coming out of the corner. The level line in the corner is set at the height of the corner cabinet.  The short line beneath the level one is the height of the cabinet at that point.  The floor slopes away here but I have never felt it before. It's hard to ignore this visual. That explains why pots on the stove pool liquids on the right side.

left side coming out of the corner
This side is about 3/8" off the high level line. I won't have to shim up as much here. I got the corner cabinet in the kitchen and put it place and it's crowding the water pipes for the sink. It already looks like the three stooges installed plumbing here. I don't want to have to reroute the water pipes but it's something I may have to do. I had to pull this cabinet back out to mark the stud locations and make a layout line for a 2x4. I need to screw that to the floor so I can then screw the cabinet into that. An inch is too much to raise up just on shims.

Evaporust bath this time
This is the chipbreaker I just got in the mail that had the iron that is toast. I bought another iron this time based on it's size of 2 5/16". It's a name I never heard of and I'm taking a chance on it fitting my 4 1/2. I already soaked this in citric acid and after hitting it with sandpaper I noticed a few pits. I decided to treat it with Evaporust too.

the original 4 1/2 chipbreaker
Look at the curve on this and how thin it is.

the one in the Evaporust now
The curve on this one isn't as pronounced as the one above. It is also thicker than the top one.

it is a gentle curve
my oldest Bailey dated anything
The patent date is 150 years old and that makes this at least that old or a bit younger but not by much. Evaporust puts a film on what is soaked in it. I want that protection to get down into the pits on this on both sides.

my low studs from Bill Rittner came in
I got the matching brass barrel nuts too. One set will be used on my first #3 and the other on the second one I bought.

new knob on my first #3
I like the scale of this knob a lot. I think it fits the scale of the plane much better then the previous tenant here.

the yet to be finished rehabbed #3
The scale of these knobs is the same as my first #3. I have a rear tote for this coming, when I don't know. I ordered an assortment of 4x36 sanding belts, 80 to 400, from Amazon so I can finish the sole and sides on this plane. These sanding belts are made for metalworking so they should last for a while. The ones I've been using up to this point have been woodworking ones.

getting the size for the crest rail
I don't like the design that is in the pic for the towel holder. I want the two ends of this crest rail to end above the sides of the towel holder. I'll wait until I have the shelf installed before I make the pattern for it.

went back to the rehabbing #3
I used the rat tail file and sandpaper to clean up the chip taken out of this side of the plane. I wanted the metal here to be smooth and shiny like the rest of the plane.

crest rail
I made the width of this oversized just in case. I think 6" wide would be ok and this is 8 1/2" just in case.

almost forgot this
This faucet set is only a couple of months old. I am going to recycle this into the new sink.

I still haven't chopped the pins on the tequila box. I think I'll try to squeeze it tomorrow. I would do it in the morning but I don't want to risk waking up my wife. It should only take about 15-20 minutes to do, if and when I do it. I want to get this done so I can get the tequila out of the shop. I don't want to risk inadvertently breaking it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What are the 8 Rocky Mountain States?
answer - Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico

SketchUp Woodworking Class-Pittsburgh Area-May 6 & 7, 2017

Bob Lang's ReadWatchDo - Fri, 02/17/2017 - 3:04pm
Thanks to the organizing efforts of one of my readers I will be teaching a two-day SketchUp Woodworking class this May 6-7, 2017 in the Pittsburgh, PA area. This class will focus on woodworking, but the 3D modeling techniques you … Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

Williamsbug Snapshot – Chairmaking Intro

The Barn on White Run - Fri, 02/17/2017 - 2:30pm

Recently I attended the annual Working Wood in the 18th Century shindig at Colonial Williamsburg.  I’ve been to many of these gatherings over the years, but this was my first since moving to White Run, and also my first entree as a speaker.  The theme this year was chairmaking, and the presenters were Kaare and Ted, along with Brian Weldy and Bill Pavlak, the journeymen from the Hay shop and Ted’s crew of interns from the Joiners shop, along with Windsor chair maker Peter Galbert and moi.

The general format for these has always been hands-on demonstrations by the CW craftsmen, usually from the Anthony Hay Cabinetmaker shop, currently mastered by Kaare Loftheim, and the Joiners shop, under the tutelage of Ted Boscani.

The setting for the conference is the Hennage Auditorium of CW, with each of the presenters engaging in actual hands-on work while engaging in soliloquies of discourse on their particular topic, on-camera with live microphones.

First up with the evening lecture on the opening night was Tara Gleason Chicirda, the long time Curator of Furniture for CW, presenting Craftsmanship of the American Chair.  Tara possesses a breathtaking range and depth of knowledge about the things we care about, and I have never been disappointed by the many lectures I have heard from her.

The next morning was started by a “three-ring circus” as Kaare, Brian, and Bill took the stage for near simultaneous expositions on their projects with a session titled Chairmaking Fundamentals–Three Chairs which set the stage for the exhilarating ride to come.

More abut each of their projects in coming posts.

Product Video: Festool CT SYS HEPA Dust Extractor

Highland Woodworking - Fri, 02/17/2017 - 7:00am

One of our favorite new tools this year is the compact dust extractor, the CT-SYS, from Festool. The portable unit makes workshop cleanup so easy (not to mention other cleanups around the house, in the car and anywhere else you can think of!)

Find out more about the Festool CT-SYS dust extractor in this short, 8 minute video.

The post Product Video: Festool CT SYS HEPA Dust Extractor appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

day two of the kitchen redo......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 02/17/2017 - 3:11am
Doing this kind of work sucks at my age. I still know how to do it but the body can't keep up with the mind. I had to make countless trips up and down the cellar stairs coming and going from the kitchen to the shop. That wasn't that bad and I could have done that all day. What sucked out loud was fighting gravity. Going down wasn't that easy but the overcoming of gravity coming back up was horrendous. I was ready for the rocking chair and nap when I got done. I have already told my wife that this is it for me fixing anything on the house that is more involved than changing a light bulb.

first of two problems I found at 0700
At 0600 I was at Lowes buying a 4x8 sheet of 1/4" under layment. I had four big pieces but they weren't enough for want I needed. After I got back home from there I decided to get the size of the inside width of the towel holder. I had to do something that wouldn't wake up the wife.

It was another should of, could of, would of, but didn't do kind of  moment. I knew I should have waited until I had the closet rod holders before cutting the shelf and back stretcher. I made them14" long and I thought that would be more than sufficient. Turns out it wasn't.

With the distance between the two rods holders at 12 1/2", the outside measurement ballooned out to 16" and change.

this stuff won't stretch at all
 This won't go to waste. I'll put it back in the stash pile and I'm sure this will end up as a box or something else someday.

problem #2
I bought a new iron and a chipbreaker and last night it spent the night in a citric bath. This side of both looked to be pretty good. No rust, pitting, or chips missing. And the iron has a good length to it.

the other side of the chipbreaker
It looks grungy and dirty but I've only treated it for rust. I'm sure that this will sand out to be nice and shiny.

the iron is toast
I have about a 1/16 of good metal at the edge then an ocean of pitted metal. The pits are too deep, too numerous, and occupy way too much real estate. At least I have a good chipbreaker that maybe I can put on my 4 1/2. It might help with the adjuster length I have on it now.

what dragged me in the dirt
I can still remember when something like this would have taken me maybe an hour to do. And that would include a coffee break and reading the newspaper on the porcelain throne. Today this little job took me 3 hours and wore me out. I thought I would be done putting in the 4 cabinets today but it didn't happen. Maybe two tomorrow and and last two on saturday or sunday with the possibility of monday.

making moldings
The pic of the towel holder shows the gallery rail as a square piece of stock with dowels for the spindles. There are 6 spindles too which I find unusual because an odd number looks better than an even number of them. I also want the front edge of my gallery rail to be molded. This was run #1.

Caleb James 3/16" bead plane
This is the plane I used to make both edges of the molding above.  I like it except for the center tongue. If that was gone, I would go with that one.

beading plane #2
I don't know that size of this beader is. I can't make out the maker, the owner, or the size stamped on either the toe or the heel.

a hollow
I used this to round over the top edge of the molding. I can barely make out the number 10 stamped on the heel. Instead of a round over, I got more of an ellipse shape. It doesn't look that good.

beader #3
Don't know the size of this beader but I picked it thinking it would make a larger bead on the edge of the board. I'm not liking this one too much.

head on
I had a 3/16" bead on the top edge and this bigger bead on the bottom edge. I was trying to use two planes to mold both top and bottom. Looks like crap because the bigger one ate up some of the top one.

my one and only side bead plane
This plane puzzles me. First, I'm not sure how to use it. There were no instructions with it when I bought it. There are no spring lines on it. By it's very name, I assume that the bead is angled whereas my beads above were all at 90°. There is also no obvious (to me anyways) stop. Lastly, it is a mystery to me how to start it. There isn't a registration rabbet, shoulder, or notch to start it in or on.

pit stop to sharpen and hone the iron
This iron wasn't sharpened which surprised me. I must have gotten frustrated with trying to get a profile with it and stuck back in the plane till. I flattened the back, sharpened, honed, and stropped the profile. I did this because my first two attempts at making a profile were a dismal failure. And I already know that sharp cures a lot of ills.

I think I figured it out
I used my fingers as a fence against the back edge of the board. Keeping the plane vertical I started at the nose and worked back to the rear end. Once I got it established end to end, the plane seemed happy and planed end to end.  It didn't wander and stayed parallel to the front edge. I also tried doing it with the plane held at an angle towards me but that didn't work out too well. I think the correct way to do is running the plane vertically. The profile looks good done that way and it stopped cutting too on it's own. I wasn't expecting that.

the finished molding
I like the look of this but I don't have a warm and fuzzy about the square part at the top.

oak spindles
I would use these if the rail wasn't being painted. Oak looks too grainy under paint. I will have to make a pit stop at an Arts & Craft store. I am pretty sure I can find some made out of maple or some other kind of smooth wood.

This is a better shot of how the square portion of the molding at the top over powers the bead beneath it.

the square would look better if it was rounded over

I have a beader
I got this set so that the first circle straddles the square portion of the molding.

had to brace it
The rail was bowing on me as I was running the plane along it's length. The T brace fixed that hiccup.

I like this a lot
I ended up with a small rabbet on the top that I planed off,

the only hiccup
Both the lead in and the exit, weren't fully molded. I don't need the entire length of this so I can saw off these two areas.

8 of the 10 cutters
some of the cutters had rust blooms
This only the 3rd time I have used this plane. Most of the irons were clean and the few with the blooms cleaned up quickly.

fancy box
The box holds eight cutters. It is made out of 1/8" thick plywood that is a frog hair thicker than the irons. One iron is kept in the plane and the last one won't fit in here due to it's shape. I oiled these and put them away.

why I bought the beading plane and the one that won't fit
This is a rusty 1/8" and 1/4' scratch iron. The idea was to use this to make stopped 1/8" grooves for boxes. I tried it and it didn't work out for me. I couldn't get a groove but maybe now that a little time has expired, I can try this again.

it feels sharp
Maybe I should look around on You Tube and see if anything is posted on using this iron. For now, I oiled it and put it away.

gallery rail and back stretcher ready
new shelf glued and cooking
I have to make a new pattern for the crest rail now that the ID has changed by a few inches. I will probably have to glue up couple of pieces for that too.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What country established the first universal emergency phone number?
answer - Great Britain did in 1937 with #999 (the US did it in 1968 with #911)

Popular Woodworking Magazine, April 2017

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 02/17/2017 - 3:00am

The April issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine (#231) just mailed to print subscribers and emailed to digital subscribers. It’s live in our online store too. There’s a lot to dig into in this issue, including a chisel primer from Christopher Schwarz – he addresses what chisels you really need, how to set one up right and correct chisel usage techniques. And if you’re interested in period woodworking, you should really […]

The post Popular Woodworking Magazine, April 2017 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Ash splint baskets for sale

Steve Tomlin Crafts - Thu, 02/16/2017 - 8:04am
A small selection of my pounded ash baskets currently for sale. Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

Wooden Platonic Solids

Highland Woodworking - Thu, 02/16/2017 - 7:43am

The Greek philosopher, Plato, was also a mathematician and he discovered and proved that there are only five regular solids. A regular solid is one that is made up of all the sides being made of one simple regular plane figure such as an equilateral triangle, a square or a regular pentagon. The five regular solids are:

  1. Tetrahedron made up of four equilateral triangular sides,
  2. Cube (or Hexahedron) made up of six square sides,
  3. Octahedron made up of eight equilateral triangular sides,
  4. Dodecahedron made up of twelve regular pentagonal sides,
  5. Icosahedron made up of twenty regular triangular sides.

Here is a picture of all five of them

These shapes have fascinated me for a long time and I decided that it would be an interesting project to make a set of these using different exotic woods for each face. The project required having to design and make two different fixtures to assure that every face was exactly the same size and that the side angles were also exactly the same. (The cube didn’t require any special fixture. I just used my normal table saw settings for that.)

Here are pictures of my five Platonic solids made from different woods. (Each face is about 1/4″ thick.) As an added “secret” touch, I added small beads into each piece before adding the final face. Each piece has the same number of beads as it has faces, so for example: the cube has six beads and the tetrahedron has four beads.






The post Wooden Platonic Solids appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Frank Klausz’s ‘Secret’ Water-tight Joint

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 02/16/2017 - 6:32am
water-tight joint

Frank Klausz reveals the family secret – how to make the watertight wood-on-wood joint for the bottom of his sharpening pond – a boatbuilder’s joint taught to him by his grandfather. It takes a special shop-made tool…from a material that you likely already have on hand. (I think I’ve enough of this particular thing to make at least 40 of them…I need to clean out the basement.) The pond also […]

The post Frank Klausz’s ‘Secret’ Water-tight Joint appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Piddle on Your Parade 2 – 360w360 E.224

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 02/16/2017 - 4:00am
Piddle on Your Parade 2 – 360w360 E.224

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking the 360 guys are joined once again by Ron Herman who continues to piddle on your parade.

Join the guys twice each week for six lively minutes of discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more). Chuck & Glen, and sometimes a surprise guest, all have their own opinions. Sometimes they agree and sometimes they don’t, but the conversation is always information packed and lots of fun.

Continue reading Piddle on Your Parade 2 – 360w360 E.224 at 360 WoodWorking.

fun filled day,,,,,,,,,

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 02/16/2017 - 2:21am
I took wed to fri off from work to finish installing the kitchen cabinets. I'll do my thing in the morning and my wife will do hers in the afternoon. I started day one by going to Home Depot and Harbor Freight. I also made a pit stop at Starbucks to get some fresh mojo. Can't work without the kick start in the AM.

yesterday's repair
The top to middle glued up ok but the bottom lost a chunk that I couldn't glue in.

glue blocks at the front only
The more I look at this the more I see total crap. The glue blocks at the front aren't glue blocks. They were stapled in place with a bead of silicone applied on the outside.

front corner of the toe kick
There was absolutely no glue on the toe kick board anywhere. No screws or nails holding it in place neither.

twisted 2x4
I removed the twist in this and then sawed it in half. From the two halves I made 4 vertical corner and 8 glue blocks.

horizontal glue blocks
I planed two reference faces that will be glued to corners. I planed a bit off on the inside so the sides of the blocks will lay up tight to the sides of the cabinet.

glue blocks
Sawing these four in half so I will have 8 blocks total. I'll use 2 on each side on the bottom.

sawed down this far and then I switched sides
just like resawing a board in half
had to switch my big tenon saw
I didn't have enough saw plate under the spine with the carcass saw. I had plenty with my biggest tenon saw.

not too bad
My first one was the lower left and the upper right was the last one.  I gauge these cuts by the spot where I switch and saw from the opposite side. I haven't eliminated it but it is getting smaller. Still not getting the saw cuts to line up when I switch to saw from the other side.

it's tight as drum now
This cabinet is going by the stove and this side will be mostly hidden. I put blocks in all four corners and I don't understand why they didn't. Moot point as this is ready to go in tomorrow.

Harbor Freight goodies
The wire wheels will used on the face vise clean up. The magnet is for a gizmo I'll make for work and the green set has a #8 torx driver. This was the only #8 torx driver that HF had, as a single or in a set.

closet rod holders
The metal one matches the color of the knobs that my wife bought for the kitchen cabinets. I bought the wooden one because it's wood. I'll toss that one in the junk drawer. It doesn't offer as much support as the metal one and I don't think it will survive being used as a paper towel holder.

no longer made
This is a multi purpose tool made by Stanley that they stopped making in the late 70's. I use it mostly to find the center of round things.

screwed the magnet to it
I intend to use this to pick up the staples that litter the deck around desk at work. The vacuum doesn't get even half of them and I'm hoping that I can get them all with this.

3 hours work
Didn't think to snap a pic of the before. I ripped out 4 cabinets, a dishwasher, and the counter top.

the used to be kitchen
what I saved
4 leg levelers, 2 big springs, and some nylon cord with do-hickeys on both ends. I only saved 3 cabinets sides as the others didn't survive the hammer love taps.

sneaky U clip
Got the screws removed and I couldn't separate the halves. I had to use a hook to pull out the U clip holding the bottom back together.

still not coming apart
missed a screw
trigger depressed
The LED is lit along with the 3 lights for the battery charge level, motor won't turn still.

motor is spinning away now
The trigger works and I can get the motor to turn that only leaves one thing as being OTL.

miniature electronic controller board
The cheapest price I could find for this was $48 plus $15.99 S/H.  I can buy a bare bones drill for $81. The cost of the repair exceeds 1/3 of the cost for a new one. That is my line in the sand for fixing something. I will fix if the cost is around a 1/3 and I will only fix once. The second failure means it gets shitcanned. I"ll toss this one and order the drill tomorrow.

matched the knobs
I put the other matching knob on the vise today. This was going to be it for me in the shop but I kept doing just one more thing.

HF metric and imperial ball drivers and a torx set
I threw these in my electric tool box because I don't have any of these in it.

I didn't think they were this big
Now that I have these I can get the final inside width of the paper towel holder.  Both parts stick up the same amount.

cheap screws
The heads are colored to match the holders. I will have to check the length on these and see if they will poke out on 3/4" thick stock.

maybe tomorrow I'll get the pins chopped out on the tequila box

Harbor Freight 4x36 sanding belt
 The last time I went to HF, they had belts from 36 grit up to 400. Today they only had 36, 80, and 120. 

80 grit belt
I have this clamped down to a 4x36 inch marble threshold I got at Home Depot. It's a great long flat surface to sand the sole of the #3 on. I kept at it with the 80 grit until I got scratches running from the toe to the heel.

might as well
Since I had the 80 grit out and I needed to work on this chisel, I did it. It was nice to have such a long runway to work on this bevel.

another side trip
I have 5 coats of spray lacquer on these 3.  The middle one looks good and the top and bottom one are washed out. They are black but the color didn't pop out with the lacquer like the middle one did. Another check mark in column A for using fresh ebonizing stuff.

got a good scratch pattern
I have been getting less than optimum results with my sharpening. I have an even grind straight across this chisel.

I can't see any reflected light
I've got a burr straight across
I should now be able to go to the stones and get this shiny and sharp now right?

not so fast moose breath
If I look at this with the magnifying glass, I can see a flat on it on one half. One half has a flat and the other doesn't. Up to now, I've been going on the look of the bevel and the burr on the backside. Even with a flat you can get a burr. Something else to check for when sharpening next. I ran into this same thing with the two spokeshave irons. I had the 3 and thought I done but I found flats on them later.

that's a big chip to remove and it wasn't happening today
moved up 120 grit
I sharpened and honed the 3 chisels at the top and they weren't scheduled for the hit parade today. Getting the #3 done was but that isn't going to happen neither.

my 2two #3s'
I ordered 2 low knob studs from Bill Rittner and he made them to fit the height of these knobs. Once I get them I'll be able to put one on the first #3. The second will have to wait until I'm done sanding the sole. I bought a new tote for it too because I can't stand the look of the one that is on it now. I'll save that one and use pieces of it to make the dark markers for a set of winding sticks.

adjuster on the rehabbing #3
Small brass adjuster and a 1/2 of a turn will get the iron poking out.

my first #3
This one has a large adjuster and look at how much the adjuster is out. The iron is barely poking out of the mouth. The iron and chipbreaker must be a good match for this plane. 99% of my planes have their adjusters set in this manner. I do like the large adjusters over the smaller ones. These are much easier to set up or down with one finger. I have to use two on the smaller ones.

I like the long runway sanding with the marble threshold and sanding belts. I am going to look up the cost of getting a few more grits so I can finish up the #3 and the #4s' I have to do too.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was William Moulton Mastron?
answer - he invented the first functional lie detector and created the comic book heroine, Wonder Woman

Periodic Reminder for 2017 Courses at The Barn

The Barn on White Run - Wed, 02/15/2017 - 1:49pm

Here is the full slate of activities.


May 23-27 Making a Ripple Molding Cutter – this is less of a workshop than a week long gathering of fellow galoots trying to design and build a machine to allow us to recreate ripple and wave moldings.  Material and supplies costs divvied up, no tuition.


June 16-18  Make a Nested Set of Brass Roubo Squares – This is a weekend of metal working, as we fabricate a full set of nested brass squares with ogee tips, as illustrated in Plate 308 of l’art du Menuisier.  The emphasis will be entirely on metal fabrication and finishing, including silver soldering with jeweler Lydia Fast, and creating a soldering station for the workbench. Tuition $375, materials cost $50.


July 24-28  Minimalist Woodworking with Vic Tesolin – This week long session with author and woodworking minimalist Vic Tesolin will begin with the fabrication, entirely by hand, of a Japanese tool box.  Who knows where we will end up?  I am looking forward to having my own work transformed.  Tuition $625, materials cost $50.


August 11-13  Historic Finishing – My own long-time favorite, we will spend three days reflecting on, and enacting, my “Six Rules For Perfect Finishing” in the historic tradition of spirit and wax coatings.  Each participant should bring a small finishing project with them, and will accompany that project with creating numerous sample boards to keep in your personal collections.  Tuition $375.


September 4-8  Build An Heirloom Workbench – I’m repeating the popular and successful week-long event from last year, wherein the participants will fashion a Roubo-style workbench from laminated southern yellow pine.  Every participant will leave at the end with a completed bench, ready to be put to work as soon as you get home and find three friends to help you move it into the shop.  Tuition and Materials $825 total.

Since some recent research revealed the attention span of Americans to be eight seconds, I’ll re-run this periodically.

If any of these interest you drop me a line here.

Small-diameter Blades

360 WoodWorking - Wed, 02/15/2017 - 7:42am
Small-diameter Blades

When I slice packs of shop-made inlay or work with material that’s expensive, I generally install a 7-1/4”-diameter, thin saw blade on my table saw. The smaller-diameter blades produce less waste and the material with which I’m working stays around longer. That’s a good thing.

This past week I discovered another good thing about using smaller diameter, thin blades. As I turned off my saw I noticed that the spin-down time was significantly less.

Continue reading Small-diameter Blades at 360 WoodWorking.

sharp fixes all.......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 02/15/2017 - 2:04am
I got a new molder last night in the mail. I almost missed it because it had fallen off the stoop and behind a bush. If I hadn't looked down, it would have spent the night outside. Instead of that happening I got to play with it after dinner.

the thing that needs to be sharp
I tried this out out of the box and the results sucked. After that disappointment, I put in a citric acid bath overnight. This morning before I left for work, I rinsed it off and oiled it. I'm starting to like the citric acid treatment. Evaporust leaves a film on the metal where this one doesn't. They both do a good job cleaning things up but I like the feel of the metal after the citric acid bath.

One other thing I noticed between the two that is tipping my favor in the direction of the citric is the rust blooms. Evaporust doesn't deal very well with them and they are there at the end of the bath. I left one rust bloom on this iron and the citric acid removed it. It's a hard choice to make because I started out with Evaporust and I'm sure I'll continue to use it. But there are a lot of check marks in column A for the citric acid.

it's a 1/2" astragal
I think I am set on astragals. I have a 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4".  The 3/4" is a wee bit too large for woodshop woodworking. It would need a 6x6 leg to make it look in scale. The 3/4" one was the first one I bought so I'll keep it. Maybe I'll make a gigantic toy box for my grandson and I can use it on that.

my first attempt with the new plane last night
The far end is iffy and the near end looks like total crap.

second run
I was paying better attention to where and how I was planing but I could tell the iron was dull. My shavings were short, full of holes, and the planed profile is very rough. And this was with the grain. I tried getting a profile on all four available edges and none were good.

one stop on the plane
The rabbet on the left is the stop for the plane. The rabbet on the right is the registration one. This rides on the edge and the top of the board. This went off the board into La-La land on every edge except for one. On the one edge I was able to keep this where it was supposed to be, I got the molded profile. It looked like crap because the iron was dull. Instead of being smooth it was torn out end to end.

sharp and shiny
I am getting quicker and better at sharpening these molding irons. I think it mostly has to do with the metal the irons are made of. They are very easy to sharpen because you can remove a lot of material without much effort.

ripping off the bad so I can plane some good
not too bad, even and straight end to end
plumb too
This is something I have wanted to do ever since I saw Paul Sellers make a cove molding entirely by hand. BTW, the profile on the left is the one that I made end to end. Another skill I'm picking up and getting better at. I think I'm ready to try to duplicate Paul's cove molding.

squared up the rough sawn edges
it's a small amount of real estate to keep on the edge
I can see how I went OTL (out to lunch) on my first 3 tries. I had to be on my toes keeping this running against the edge.

much joy and rejoicing in Mudville
This was with the grain and it is as clean as a whistle end to end. Sharp does fix a bucket full of problems. The iron was set a frog hair too deep but the shavings still look good albeit a bit thick.

against the grain
This turned out better than I was expecting. As I was planing this, it was tearing out down the whole length. As I planed closer to the end, it started to clean up and by the time I hit the stop, it looked pretty good.

outside groove wall tore out a bit here
That big hole to the left of my finger is the remnants of a mortise I chopped. Most of the tearing happened on this end and decreased as I planed to the opposite end.

a handful of shavings to burnish the profile

got another surprise
The shavings smoothed out the profile more than I thought they would. I can feel a big difference between the unburnished one and the burnished one. It didn't get rid of the few tear out pockets but it did feather them out some.

profile #4
This one was against the grain also but I got a better looking profile on this one. I took it slower and tried to take a shallower cut. I'm sure that if I hadn't been in such a hurry to try this out, and if I had set the iron a bit shallower, the results against the grain would have been better.

this is an interesting profile
This I've seen on pine T&G boards at the big box stores. On thicker stock this might work better yielding a thicker tongue. This board is 9/16" thick.

screws came in
McMaster-Carr didn't have these which surprised me. They had the right size and length, but they weren't threaded up to the head. I got these on Amazon Prime from the Hillman group. Brass flat head, all threaded, 10-24 screws. A box of 15 for $12.84 which is a pretty good price for a big brass screw.

clever design
Put some thread lock in the brass 'tube' on the disc and that will keep that secure. I have had some of these spin on me and now I know how they are put together. The biggest problem I've had with these is the part that screws into the threaded insert doesn't stay inserted and the threads are mangled up. Brass and steel together equals steel wins every time.

the part sticking out screws into the threaded insert
I wonder if the brass disc is an off the shelf item?

after dinner work
I found and glued up two boards that were 3 1/2" wide for the shelf. The shelf will be  6 1/2" wide.

also found a board I can use for the back stretcher
got most of the wood for the towel holder
The first shelf is now the crest rail. I only need one more board for the gallery railing but I'll hold off on that until I get the gallery spindles.

set #1 after 4 rounds
set #1 and the comparison piece
set #2 after 4 rounds
set #2 and the comparison piece
all 3 together
The two sets appear to be me to be about the same. I can't see a difference in them but I can see a difference in both sets against the comparison piece. It has been roughly two months since I last used this ebonizing stuff. The tannic acid seems to be just as effective now as then. The apple cider vinegar iron sulfate seemed also to be equally effective. The white vinegar iron sulfate didn't make it. My conclusion on this is to mix up what I need to do the job at hand. Once that is done and if there nothing on the horizon, discard it. I wouldn't keep it more than a week or two at the most. I also like the apple cider vinegar iron sulfate better than the white vinegar. It appears to be stronger and longer lasting then the white stuff. And it is better smelling. I'll be making up a new, fresh solution for each job.

I am going to put a few coats of lacquer on the biggest piece of wood in both sets. I want to see what the black looks like with some finish on it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who has won the most Grammy awards?
answer - conductor Georg Solti with 31

Acclimating Wood

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 02/14/2017 - 1:00pm
acclimating wood

Whether you buy your furniture wood from a specialty hardwood lumberyard or from a local sawyer, the chance that the wood is ready to go into a piece of furniture with a minimum risk of shrinking (or, rarely, expanding) unduly is just about nil. Instead, it’s more likely (at least in most areas of the United States) that the wood has been sitting in an unheated space and is, at […]

The post Acclimating Wood appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Piddle on Your Parade – 360w360 E.223

360 WoodWorking - Tue, 02/14/2017 - 4:00am
Piddle on Your Parade – 360w360 E.223

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking the 360 guys are joined once again by Ron Herman who proceeds to piddle on your parade.

Join the guys twice each week for six lively minutes of discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more). Chuck & Glen, and sometimes a surprise guest, all have their own opinions. Sometimes they agree and sometimes they don’t, but the conversation is always information packed and lots of fun.

Continue reading Piddle on Your Parade – 360w360 E.223 at 360 WoodWorking.

towel holder and more........

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 02/13/2017 - 11:49pm
There was an "Aha, gotcha" with the supposed snow storm for Monday. The day was cold, windy, but sunny and snow free. All day long. Not a hint of precipitation and there isn't any forecasted for the rest of the week. I'm keeping my fingers crossed on this being the last of the white stuff this winter.

batting lead off tonight
The entire back right side was blown out. It is way too late to put a claim in for the damage, so I'll have to fix it. The cabinets are all wood except for the panels in the doors being MDF. The plywood used looks ok but feels as light as tissue paper. The fronts are solid wood but I don't know what kind.

this is it
There was no glue in the dado at all on the busted out side. The left side has this blob of silicone at the top and running down to the bottom. That is part one of how the cabinets are held together. The second part is 1/4" crown staples. That's it. I am not impressed with these at all. On wednesday I start the demo of the bottom cabinets so this has to be ready to go in thursday.

chopping the tails
I have gone from having a double row of 15 holes for the bench hooks down to 3. Of the 3, I only use one. And I only use that one to chop pins and tails. I'm still debating whether or not to put any holes for bench hooks in the new bench.

pins sawn
The chisels need to be touched up and I don't feel like stopping to do that. I will have to do that tomorrow before I chop out the pins.

towel rack is batting cleanup
I got a roll of paper towels to check the clearance on the pattern. I don't want to have this completed and have a hiccup putting paper towels in or out.

ready to cut out
I have the two halves screwed together in the waste areas. I cut this out on the bandsaw being careful to arrange the cutting so that the screws held the two halves together for the longest time possible.

cut out and ready for shaping
most of the rough shaping is done
The big 'C' shaped curve will done with the oscillating spindle sander. I tried using a spokeshave on it but I only had success with the back wall. The two curves are too tight for the spokeshave.

slight difference
Rather then use up a piece of the same board for ears, I used a piece of 1x2 poplar that I had in the wood stash. It wasn't as thick as the other board and I planed it flush because I didn't want this to catch on the OSS table.

dead nuts flush
This is going to be painted and if this is less than dead nuts flush, it will show through the paint. I got a good glue joint with no gaps on both sides. I can not detect any proud along the length with my finger tips.

I don't like this point
I do like the look of this but it is a very fragile part. This will get busted and destroyed the first time something brushes against it.

sides are done
I made the 'flat' on the point as small as I could. It is something that you can't really see head on but you can from the sides. All the shaping is done on this and I can't do much more until I get the closet rod set. I need that to get the final width of this.

the shelf
I want the shelf in a stopped dado with it being 3/4" from the front. This shelf is shy of that by a couple of inches. I have more 1/2" stock that I can use to glue to this to make up the width but I'm thinking on that.

something I'm adding
There isn't any stretcher on the back of the towel holder in the pic. I think it is something that is needed to keep the bottom of the holder from spreading out or closing in. It isn't going to be this big, a stretcher 1 1/2" wide will suffice here.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the maximum allowed weight for a PBA bowling ball?
answer - 16 pounds

The Completed Dovetail Desk! {Part 17 of “Build a Dovetail Desk with Hand Tools”}

Wood and Shop - Mon, 02/13/2017 - 4:52pm
You're not going to believe it. My family didn't believe it. Remember a couple years ago how I started building a dovetailed desk? Well it's finished! And here is the final video and some photos to prove it. If you remember, I was building this desk for my two oldest boys' Christmas present...in 2014. And

Summer 2015 Woodworking Project: Youngest Grandkids’ Picnic Table

Highland Woodworking - Mon, 02/13/2017 - 7:00am

Let The al fresco Dining Begin!

When our youngest grandchild, Sara Riley, was only a few years old, I got some rough-sawn cedar, planed and sanded it, and built the cutest miniature picnic table with two separate benches. A few years later our second grandchild, Charlie, came along, and his big sister now graciously allows him to sit with her.

After I finished this table, a lady saw it and said she wanted one for her grandchildren. She asked me, “How much?” I said, “For one exactly like this? Five hundred.” I put a lot of sweat and love into this little project. Unfortunately, I didn’t take any pictures while it was being built. Here, it shows the effect of aging in ten Kentucky summers and winters.

After I finished this table, a lady saw it and said she wanted one for her grandchildren. She asked me, “How much?” I said, “For one exactly like this? Five hundred.” I put a lot of sweat and love into this little project. Unfortunately, I didn’t take any pictures while it was being built. Here, it shows the effect of aging in ten Kentucky summers and winters.

I wanted to make a picnic table for our two youngest grandchildren, Audrey and Owen, but I didn’t want it to be the same. When I found the plan for a round table with curved benches, I knew all I had to do was scale it down to their size.

The kernel of the project came from an old project book copyrighted 1970 titled, Wood Projects for the Home Handyman, by the editors of the Home Handyman’s Magazine. Its asking price was 60¢ at newsstands, 75¢ by mail. There is a collection of projects that you can make from the “durable, decorative and workable woods of the western lumber region.” To encourage the timid and the tightwad, the book proclaims “The table with benches can be easily constructed by the average home craftsman and will cost far less than comparable units available in retail outlets.”

I was shocked when I picked up the Western red cedar. So much for this project costing “far less.” Cedar had roughly doubled in price since the first table. But, so what? It was for the grandbabies. That’s always good justification.

Memorial Day weekend, 2014, I had the wood, the shop was clean, Brenda was out of town, the Forrest Woodworker II was sharp, and I thought, “I can start Friday night after work, go all day Saturday plus Monday and probably be finished by the evening of Memorial Day.”

I’m writing this January 25, 2017, and I just loaded the pieces onto the trailer last week. It was not a long-weekend task.

It was a fun project, though. One of the great things about having young grandchildren as your “customers”… they don’t keep track of time.

In fact, a serendipitous thing happened between 2014 and now. Granddaughter Audrey learned the term, al fresco, an Italian phrase that means “in the fresh air,” and she loves dining outside on the deck whenever she can. She and her little brother, Owen, will love sitting at their new al fresco table.

There were some interesting experiences during the two-plus years of this build, and I’d like to share some of them with you.

First, I learned that, although cedar’s price was up, the quality went down. Knots, on the one hand, are simply part of working with cedar. I knew that when I chose the medium. Other defects were not so expected.

Like the giant void that appeared in the edge after circle-cutting the top with a router.

I suppose that black epoxy is going to become a “trademark” for me, as I seem to find a way to incorporate it in nearly every project, much like Ernie Conover uses ebony plugs in the center of his drawer pulls. But, I’m used to having a defect to fill that provides its own retaining wall, such as a knot that has fallen out. To fix this edge, I was going to have to provide a wall. As Steven Johnson would say, I “noodled” on it for a while, and came up with this plan. Start with a curved retaining wall. As someone who finds roadside buckets nearly every time he gets in the car, I wasn’t shy about cutting a bucket to pieces. The shape is already curved, and, even though it isn’t the same diameter as the 48″ top, it is flexible. I cut enough of it to go well beyond the defect, stretched it tight with clamps, then put pan-head screws through pre- drilled holes in the bucket-dam, into the edge of the table, applying even more tension. The defect was bad enough that it went all the way through, so I needed another dam on the bottom of the table. For that, I used some off-brand Play-Doh. Building up epoxy in seven layers, I gradually filled the void. I was hoping that I’d avoid bubbles by using thin coats of epoxy. Alas, there were some, but they were small and not terribly noticeable. Epoxy is sandpaper-friendly, so no techniques have to be changed to accommodate it.

The bucket strip is stretched tight against the wooden edge with clamps and screws. Dollar-store Play-Doh is acting as a dam against uncured epoxy dripping out, and we’re ready for the first layer.

The bucket strip is stretched tight against the wooden edge with clamps and screws. Dollar-store Play-Doh is acting as a dam against uncured epoxy dripping out, and we’re ready for the first layer.

Several layers have built up the epoxy.

Several layers have built up the epoxy.

The first two of seven coats of finish are on, and the repair looks more like an accent than a mistake of nature.

The first two of seven coats of finish are on, and the repair looks more like an accent than a mistake of nature.

Some of the bench boards had defects that went all the way through.

Some of the bench boards had defects that went all the way through.

Repair of these through-knots started with fake Play-Doh, reinforced with plywood clamped in place.

Repair of these through-knots started with fake Play-Doh, reinforced with plywood clamped in place.

Then, the defect is ready to be filled. I use “charcoal” concrete-coloring powder in my epoxy to make it black.

Then, the defect is ready to be filled. I use “charcoal” concrete-coloring powder in my epoxy to make it black.

Sometimes you get lucky and two defects are right across from each other. Before filling, I used a Dremel tool with a burr to clean out all the loose material.

Sometimes you get lucky and two defects are right across from each other. Before filling, I used a Dremel tool with a burr to clean out all the loose material.

During the project I read about a home builder who epoxied a penny into the framing of houses he built. The year of the penny matched the year of the build. I expanded that idea and put state-specific quarters in the edge of the table. A “Kentucky” quarter from the years Audrey and Owen were born, a “Mississippi” quarter for the year the table was made, and a Texas quarter to represent the state of my birth. My Texas coin couldn’t be year-appropriate. Quarters hadn’t been invented yet.

During the project I read about a home builder who epoxied a penny into the framing of houses he built. The year of the penny matched the year of the build. I expanded that idea and put state-specific quarters in the edge of the table. A “Kentucky” quarter from the years Audrey and Owen were born, a “Mississippi” quarter for the year the table was made, and a Texas quarter to represent the state of my birth. My Texas coin couldn’t be year-appropriate. Quarters hadn’t been invented yet.

 Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer, topped with three coats of gloss Epifanes and two coats of matte Epifanes.

Loaded and ready for delivery. The finish is two coats of CPES: Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer, topped with three coats of gloss Epifanes and two coats of matte Epifanes.

Jim Randolph is a veterinarian in Long Beach, Mississippi. His earlier careers as lawn mower, dairy farmer, automobile mechanic, microwave communications electronics instructor and journeyman carpenter all influence his approach to woodworking. His favorite projects are furniture built for his wife, Brenda, and for their children and grandchildren. His and Brenda’s home, nicknamed Sticks-In-The-Mud, is built on pilings (sticks) near the wetlands (mud) on a bayou off Jourdan River. His shop is in the lower level of their home.Questions and comments on woodworking may be written below in the comments section. Questions about pet care should be directed to his blog on pet care, www.MyPetsDoctor.com. We regret that, because of high volume, not all inquiries can be answered personally.

The post Summer 2015 Woodworking Project: Youngest Grandkids’ Picnic Table appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking


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