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General Woodworking

How to Build an Inexpensive Steam Box for Bending Wood

Highland Woodworking - Tue, 01/30/2018 - 8:42am

Have you ever considered bending wood for a woodworking project? The technique can really add interest to a piece, and is easier than you might think! Click below to find an article and a video on building an inexpensive steam box for bending wood as well as some tips for how to use the steam box.

Click here to learn more about how to bend wood

The post How to Build an Inexpensive Steam Box for Bending Wood appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Barn Workshop – Make A Petite Dovetail Saw

The Barn on White Run - Tue, 01/30/2018 - 6:03am

In recent years my projects and inclinations have guided me towards more diminutive work in thinner stock.  This makes cutting dovetails somewhat of a challenge when using a standard saw, which is often too aggressive and thus harder to control effortlessly.  As a result of that I began exploring the prospect of fabricating my own petite dovetail saw.  I wound up making several with good-to-excellent results.  We will replicate that process and send you home with your own.

If you have a particular piece of wood to use for the handle (tote) feel free to bring it to work with.  Otherwise I will provide all the materials for this workshop.  We’ll aim to fold and finish the back, taper and insert the plate/blade, fit and fashion the handle to your hand, and file the teeth.

The tool list for the workshop is a short one and will be sent to attendees well before the event.

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The complete 2018 Barn workshop schedule:

Historic Finishing  April 26-28, $375

Making A Petite Dovetail Saw June 8-10, $400

Boullework Marquetry  July 13-15, $375

Knotwork Banding Inlay  August 10-12, $375

Build A Classic Workbench  September 3-7, $950

Precision Instruments for Woodworkers — Part One: Standardization

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 01/30/2018 - 5:23am

Tools for measuring. Tools for Accuracy. ACCURACY IS IMPORTANT PART OF WOODWORKING I’ve been working as a furniture maker for quite a while, now. Along the way, you refine your processes, develop techniques and create a lot of habits over time. Certainly, an important part of working professionally is to work efficiently —you learn very quickly that time is a fixed asset. You also learn that you have to work […]

The post Precision Instruments for Woodworkers — Part One: Standardization appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

feeling like crap......

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 01/30/2018 - 12:27am
I started to get a headache round about noon-ish today. It is one of those annoying ones that hovers on the periphery deciding what it wants to be when it grows up. It would throb a little for a while and then fade away. Off and on all afternoon and when I got home it settled behind my eyes. It almost kept me out of the shop and it did shorten the to do list significantly.

left over 044 parts
I picked out the best ones and put them on the plow I'm giving to Miles.

done
I had buffed the nickel plating on the fence and the top of the plane yesterday. I didn't make me say wow.  It was more of a humph. The rods I wiped down with 4-0 steel wool and the nickel on the screws and such I'm leaving as is. I don't think I would raise any appreciable shine with the rouge I have. I will make a pit stop at Harbor Freight this weekend and get some rouge and a new buffing wheel.

had to do some rearranging
My submarine training paid off again. I haven't lost my touch with putting 20 pounds of crap into a 5 pound test bag. I don't have any more toolboxes or planes to put in here so this is pretty much carved in stone.

giving both of these to Miles
I was thinking of making holders for the both of these and attaching them to walls in the bottom above the planes. I'm not sure I have the room for that now that I have rearranged things. I will check it out this weekend if I remember it.

the final resting places of all the toys
6 coats of shellac
It darkened up like I expected and obscures most of the grain on the tote (except at the top) and all of the knob.

scraped the primer off the frog seat
bottom came off pretty easy too
I used the Harbor Freight heavy duty scrapper at the bottom.

painting the lettering and numbers
I don't want to have any paint pool in the letters/numbers so I over brushed this area checking for that. I came back and stroked it a bit more with a dry brush after the paint had set up for a few minutes or so.

This will need coat #2 tomorrow but the frog and the yoke will be done. I put the second coat of black on them tonight.

10 1/2
I did a full blown, sand, strip, and paint rehab of this last year or was it the year before? I didn't hand paint the plane, instead I had prayed it. It is has a dull matte look and it needs some shine there. I am not going to repaint and the first step towards shiny will be cleaning it first.

then I'll wax it
I will take the knob and tote off to apply the wax and get rid of the interference when I buff it out. I think this paint has had plenty of time to cure. I shouldn't have any problems applying wax to it now.

another plug for Autosol
I used Autosol on this way back when I finished the rehab. I haven't applied any since and I have used this several times to make rabbets. It still looks good and this is where I ran out of gas for the night.

The plan was to get this waxed and buffed tonight and call it done. The #3 might need some painting. I can't remember how far I went with the rehab on that one. I did it several years ago so I probably didn't strip and paint it. Checking that one out will have to wait until tomorrow or possibly the day after.

Blogger bit me on the arse again. I published two comments, one from Sparks, and another from Steve, and both ended up in a black hole somewhere. I can't access the comments for this blog post at all. It's annoying to me that I don't know what causes the comments to freeze like this and lock me out of them. So my apologies Sparks and Steve, I think they got published but I can't respond to them

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Mort Walker drew the Beetle Bailey comic strip for over 50 years? (he passed away today at age 94)

The Desk Project – The Prototype

The Barn on White Run - Mon, 01/29/2018 - 4:01pm

It’s been more than four months since I last wrote about my project to interpret an early 19th century writing desk for a client, when I had the opportunity to use period appropriate technology for virtually the entire project.  Previously I had written about deriving the design templates for the project, and this post will finally get down to fashioning wood.

My first problem(?) was that I was a bit hazy on some of the internal construction details of the original.  To resolve that void, or to at least come to a workable conclusion, I needed to build a full scale prototype.  Using some left over 2x SYP from a workbench-building  project I did just that.  I rough cut each leg element with a bandsaw (this was primarily a proportion and joinery exercise) then shaped them just enough to get the gist of the idea.

Then with each individual element fashioned I dove into the joinery for the complete leg assembly, with frequent dry fittings.

Using PVA I glued up each leg.

In the end I had two leg assembles shaped and fashioned, and joined, glued, and assembled.  This was an important moment as I  exerted my full weight on each individual leg to make sure they would hold.

They did.

Oak Writing Desk

Anne of All Trades - Mon, 01/29/2018 - 12:11pm
Screen Shot 2018-01-26 at 3.44.35 PM.png

I'm really excited to be working with Marc Spagnuolo, the Wood Whisperer to create in-depth content for his online woodworking guild. If you've been following me or my blog for a while, you may remember an oak writing desk I built with my good friend Jonathan at Homestead Heritage in Waco, Texas. Since I will be modifying and expanding the original design for the desk over the next couple of months and documenting the process for the Guild, I thought I'd share the original article I wrote about the experience building the chest at Homestead Heritage for F&C magazine. Click here to read the whole article.  

IMG_1445.JPG

A Primer on Scribing: How to Scribe with a Shim

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 01/29/2018 - 5:05am

Scribing, like coping, is one of those seemingly magical techniques that allow you to make one piece fit another. Scribing has a variety of applications. It’s not only good for fitting trim to irregular walls, or cabinets to floors that are out of level; you can scribe almost any material – round logs, sheets of drywall, floor tiles, pieces of exterior siding … you could even, in principle, use it […]

The post A Primer on Scribing: How to Scribe with a Shim appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

tool rehab day......

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 01/29/2018 - 12:38am
I ended up doing rehab work for most of the day. I hadn't planned on that, it just happened. My hands weren't hurting too bad and all the finger work I was doing wasn't bothering me. So I went with the flow and did what I could because I never know when they will start singing arias. I also changed the rehab schedule. I was going to do the #7 and #8 after I got done with the two I have in the queue now. I switched that to the 10 1/2 and the #3 being next. Why? I use them more than I use the #7 and #8.


what is the white line?
I am not getting any jamming under the chipbreaker but I still want to know what that white line is. Is it a gap between the chipbreaker and the iron? I flattened the back of the iron and I stoned the back edge of the chipbreaker. So two flats should equal zero light, right?

back of the chipbreaker
The edge is shiny and consistent in width side to side. The white line I see I thought was light being reflected off of this but it isn't. I shined a light at the front I can see that for about half of the width. I have a gap but I still am not getting jamming? Why?

I can close it
With almost no finger pressure on the chipbreaker, I can close the gap. When I do that and shine the flashlight on the front, I see no light under the chipbreaker and no white line.

the third part
The lever cap is providing the final bit of pressure on the chipbreaker to close the gap. I checked 5 of my spares and all five of them have a gap I can see when the flashlight is shined on the front. I do not have a problem with any of these jamming or getting shavings under the chipbreaker. Some of them have questionable flattened iron backs but all have a good stoned edge on the chipbreaker (similar to the one above). So the lever cap must be what is closing it when I use them.

5 1/2 tote
Scraped and sanded up to 320 grit. This will turn dark once the shellac goes on. I like this lighter unfinished look because I can see the grain. The shellac tends to hide that.

scraped the knob
The finish on this wasn't shellac and I'm guessing it was lacquer.

the grain runs up/down
Most of the ways I have seen this done is via the dill press. I have done them in the drill press too but I don't do that anymore. Sanding them in drill press means your are sanding across the grain. I opted to scrape and sand the knob with the grain.

scraped and sanded up to 320
The whole operation on the knob took less than 10 minutes to do. Both of these are ready for shellac. I will brush on the first two coats and then I will spray on 3-4 more after that.

problem area on the 5 1/2
This area doesn't have any japanning and it is incredibly difficult to clean and sand to bare metal in this area.

part of my Harbor Freight road trip
I got these to scrape all the areas I can't sand and get my fat fingers in.

got a buffer on sale for $45
I had a $20 off coupon and I got the upgraded warranty on this. In the first 90 days if this goes south they will give me a new one. After that she said they will fix it which means they will give me another one then too.

replenished my brushes
These were all on sale and I needed them. I go through at least one steel and one brass brush on each plane I rehab. The brass ones especially don't last too long.

filed the edge until I rolled a burr
it worked
I was able to scrape the rust away down to bare metal. The burr didn't' last too long but it worked. I had to make a fresh burr a few times to complete these two spots.

Autosol test
According to the writing on the tube this stuff cleans, shines, removes rust, and protects a lot of different kinds of metal. I don't think it shines all that much and I'm going to find out if I'm right or wrong. This is the before pic.

it definitely cleaned this
You apply this with a rag and then wipe and buff it right away.

I don't see a difference
I think for this to shine it would have to be a 'wow' moment to get my attention. It didn't say wow but I do know that this stuff protects. I had used Autosol on this about 4-5 months ago and it still looks good.

LN #4 1/2
I have never used Autosol on this before and it has some rust blooms on this side at the toe.

a few dabs of Autosol
 It doesn't take a lot and this is probably too much.

done
It didn't completely remove the rust blooms but it did it justice and got 95% of it. I give it a C+ on the shine and an A on cleaning. This is good stuff and worth having in the shop to put on your tools.

I don't see much of a shine raised
buffer set up
I'll try this out on the 5 1/2 rehab with the lever cap first.

first application of stripper
what I use to clean the stripper off the plane
shop apron
I have 3 of these and I can count on one hand and still have fingers free, the number of times I've worn any of them.  On the last rehab I got the dust from the sanding in my pants and it stunk worse than a pair of gym socks forgotten in a locker for ten years. I'll try to remember to wear this and keep my street clothes clean. At least when I'm rehabbing tools.

tried the scraper on the plane
The scraper worked pretty well with getting the remaining japanning off. I had 4 sizes to pick and choose from.

2nd and 3rd applications
The stripper doesn't stick and work well on vertical parts of the plane. I stripped this side first and then did the other one. The two other vertical spots are the cross brace in front of the mouth and the back of the frog seat. Extra work but I don't have a sandblaster to help out.

sanded with 80 grit paper  and cleaned with acetone before the primer gets sprayed on -
extra screws/studs to cover the holes

I had to stuff a bit of paper towel in the frog adjust screw hole because I don't have an extra one of those.

for the frog seat
I have used this before with good results. I coated the frog seat and the two bare areas at the bottom by the mouth.

 I fixed the 044
The first 044 with the new fence on it didn't work. It will plow a groove but not with the fence up against the edge. I could keep the back heel of the fence there but the toe wandered off to the left away from the edge. Nothing I tried changed that. I then ran 3 grooves with the new 044 without any hiccups.

removed the grooves from test run #1 for a second run
ran 4 more grooves
I did the first one starting at the left and working back. I did the next 3 by starting at the right and going to the left. No problems with plowing the grooves. No problem keeping the fence tight against the edge. Much joy and rejoicing in Mudville with dancing in the streets.

I did have one problem
The depth shoe slipped on me.

the last groove
I plowed it so deep it met the bottom of the other groove and planed this piece right off.

I'm happy with this
The grooves are parallel to the edge from the toe to the heel. The second plow plane is working as expected.

first one on the left, the replacement on the right
I wish this was the opposite of what I'm keeping. The first 044 has better nickel plating then the right one. I think the problem with the first 044 is definitely the front hole wasn't drilled 90° to the body. . The rods on the 2nd 044 are both square to the body once I tighten the screws on the rod.

The first 044 is stowed away on top of the finishing cabinet.  I will use the rods from it with the new 044. The 2nd 044 has two different sized diameter fence rods whereas on the first 044 the two are the same. I will use the plane as it is and hold off on getting replacement rods. I am leaning in the direction now that the rods are designed this way. Maybe it was done this way because of manufacturing practices at that time.

both planes have the same Record design number
On the heel of the skate is a Record design number but the iron clamps are different. Everything else on the two plows are the same except for this and what follows.

why it slipped
The rods on the depth shoes are different diameters. I would expect these having the same design number that they would be identical. Maybe this is why it slipped but it also could have slipped because I didn't tighten down the screw enough.

cleaned, degreased, and rinsed
I will give these small parts an EvapoRust bath. I stopped at Home Depot to get some Rem oil but I couldn't find it. The Plane Collector uses that on his small parts and he said he gets it from HD. I asked the tool guy there and he said he never heard of the stuff. I'll stick with my oil regimen for now.

something odd
I just noticed this about the lever cap for locking the iron. See it?

just the rounded end is nickel plated
It is looking like I'll have a couple of tools rehabbed this upcoming week. The 5 1/2 will be ready for paint tomorrow and the Record 044 should be ready too. I just have to rinse the small parts, buff the ones I can, and put it together. The 4 1/2 should go as quick as the 5 1/2 is but we'll see.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know in the original story of Cinderella, her slippers were made of fur and not glass? (It was a translation error from the story's original french to english)

Upcoming Simple Cove Guild Build: Cherry Wall Cabinet

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sun, 01/28/2018 - 6:57am

This is a guest post by Sean Walker. He is the founder of Simple Cove, a website for sharing project builds. He is gearing up to release a new build from the pages of Popular Woodworking Magazine.  A post shared by Sean Walker (@simplecove) on Jan 22, 2018 at 6:28am PST Hi guys, I’m a new face that you’ve not seen on this blog before. My name is Sean Walker […]

The post Upcoming Simple Cove Guild Build: Cherry Wall Cabinet appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

slow saturday.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 01/28/2018 - 1:51am
My arthritis has been acting up more lately and today it curtailed my saturday doings. It doesn't hurt much unless I bang or jam a finger. I especially see stars when I hit either of my thumbs. I can deal with the ping and work through it. What I'm having difficulty working with and around is the lost of strength. For some  woodworking tasks it doesn't matter but when you have trouble picking up your coffee mug.....and I drink coffee 24/7/365.

got my drawer slides
Both the drawer and the bottom tray are on the large side so wooden guides are out. I got 75lb, full extension drawer slides. I doubt that I will come close to this rating on the bottom tray with all the tool boxes that will be in it. And I know I won't even get to a 1/3 of the weight rating on the drawer.

for the top drawer
for the bottom sliding tray
I still haven't realized that these aren't what I think they are.

how are these tabs used on a sliding tray?
when in doubt read the instructions
What I called bottom mount drawer slides is this. I thought that what I ordered were drawer slides that mounted underneath the slide out tray. These slides still mount to the sides of the cabinet and I lose 2 plus inches side to side that I don't want to. I wanted under mount slides so I maximize my side to side to allow the toolboxes to fit. I'll have to figure out what I want, is called.

These slides are meant to be used in a vertical application. I could put them horizontally underneath the tray but I lose the benefit of the ball bearing action. The weight and force will be downwards where as the ball bearings will be acting horizontally on air basically.

how it is attached
I will use this one for the drawer and I'll save the one I bought for that for something else. Now I'll have to search for tray slides(?).

#4 tote
I scraped the epoxy spills off. Almost all of them were around the glue line.

first coat of shellac
It already looks like I never scraped this down to bare wood. I will put on 3 more and this will be done.

thinning the handle
I like the semi oval, tapered handle on this pigsticker. However, it is just too fat front to back. I have big hands and I didn't like the grip I had with it. It was hard to hold securely and chisel with it. I will keep the shape of the handle as it is but I will concentrate on removing wood at the front and rear and minimize removal on the sides.

my cue
The handle overhangs the bolster all around. I will even the bottom of the handle with that and taper it back up to the top of the handle.

feels a lot better
My thumb reaches and touches my fingers now.

getting closer
I think this improved the sighting of the chisel. BTW I think the handle is made out of beech. It looks like the beech I have in my stash.

made another quick mortise
The business end of the chisel has been sharpened with a rounded bevel. I prefer a straight one so it'll be a while before I get that.  I did a quick run on the stones to raise a burr and then I chopped this. I didn't do any layout lines, I just chopped it free hand. Doing this mortise with the thinned handle felt better then the one I did first with the fat handle.

changed the barrel nut twice
I don't like this being recessed this far down.

used my last Bill Rittner barrel nut - not much better
5 1/2 is in the batting circle
I have already rehabbed this plane. I have done everything on this one I did on the previous two with the exception of painting the frog and plane interior and refinishing the knob and tote.

the sole
I don't remember when I did this but it still looks good. Sanding and polishing the sides and the bottom is the hardest part of the rehab work. I shouldn't have to do anything more than touch it up with 400 and 600 grit after the stripping and painting is done.

the state of the japanning
It has some loss at the heel and toe with a few spots on both cheeks too. The frog is worse than I remember it being.

clean and degreaser action first then stripper
need some more sanding sticks
Paul Seller has used these but I made some only after seeing the Plane Collector make and use them. They are handy little gizmos to have when sanding the various plane parts.

made a pile
I made most of these with one free edge mostly because I was having problems with holding the sandpaper in place as the glue set on four edges. Two of the longer ones on the left I will cut in half. I tried to make dowel sanding stick but I'm not sure about it. I didn't get the sandpaper to go 360 so it may turn to burnt toast on my first use with it.

This is where I packed it in for the day. I went upstairs and caught up on the Hall Table video series that Richard Maguire is doing . After that I put in Joshua Kleins's DVD on building a table.  I'll have to watch that one again because I fell asleep while it was running and woke up when it was done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Uncle Tom's Cabin (published in 1852) was the first American novel to sell over a million copies?

PopWood Playback #4 | Top Woodworking Videos of the Week

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 01/27/2018 - 3:04am

  🚨 NOTICE: No Davids were harmed in the making of this episode.🚨 Episode #4 is live on YouTube! Thank you all so much for your submissions – we have six great videos to share with you this week. Look out for more PopWood Playback episodes every Saturday morning on our Youtube channel. I’ll be hijacking Playback next week, so I’ll see you then! – Jake Motz Here are the […]

The post PopWood Playback #4 | Top Woodworking Videos of the Week appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

#6 and #4 planes completed.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 01/27/2018 - 12:26am
Most of the #4 was done last night. I was so close that after dinner I went back to the shop and finished it using a spare tote. The #6 I did tonight after work and both are ready to join and lead the herd. This bug I have for rehabbing my planes is going to take a while to complete. Just thinking out loud, I have 9 planes waiting their turn. My 5 1/2 will be next followed by the 4 1/2. The next two after these are completed will be the #7 and #8.


finally found a pic
This is the way I received the #4. The iron had been derusted and it is badly pitted. The tote broke on me but the rest of the plane was in pretty good shape.

time to see how I did
This is my first time epoxying rosewood and I'm anxious to see how it came out. I didn't prep it in any special way like cleaning it with acetone or scraping the old glue off. I just applied the epoxy to one side and taped it together.

I think I did good
The handle hadn't shifted while it was taped and cooking away. Aside from the tape residue, it is flush according to the finger tip test.

I banged the snot out of this
I rapped this several times on the workbench trying to break it again. It didn't so I'm calling the repair 100% this time. I don't want this break again on me.

both are totes off of a #4
There is a visible difference in the sizes of these two. I know that the tote on the left is from a #4 because there isn't a screw hole in the toe. I had the left one on the #4 and it just barely fit under the lateral adjust.

it's a better fit
The heel fits just right on the small half round disc at the back of the plane. The other tote protruded past it all around.

two problems both fixed
The first one is the slot of this barrel nut is chewed up. This is the one that a big burr that I had to file off. I wasn't going to replace it but after the calorie count to get the plane to this point I might have to.

The other problem was screwing the barrel nut and stud on the plane. Usually I screw the barrel nut on the stud and then screw it into the bottom of the plane. I couldn't do that this time. I had to thread the stud into the plane first, slip the tote on and then screw the barrel nut on. The problem was the stud was pitched forward and wasn't centered in the counterbore on the top of the tote. I had to push the rod back and slip the barrel nut on and then screw it home. It took a few turns on the dance floor before I nailed it.

last step
I love this stuff. Not only does it shine up metal, it protects it too. I am liking the protection more than the shine. And it lasts for 3-4 months before I have to apply it again. Glamour shots are next.

45
starboard side
stern shot
port side
it's a keeper
It is making nice fluffy, see through shavings. I got it set to pass even shavings on the R and L with no fussing at all. This will serve me well at the upcoming class and I will put it to good use in the shop.

forgot the bottom shot


the #6 bow shot
I searched for a before pic but I gave up. I have bazillion pics and after slogging through them for 45 minutes I had enough.

starboard side
The original rosewood tote and knob on this plane I put on Miles's #6. I bought a replacement set made of rosewood from Doz. I can't remember where the maker said this came from but most likely it's a central America variety.

stern shot
port side
bottom shot
had to back up the frog
I had the frog too far forward and the iron wouldn't extend through the mouth. I don't change my frogs once I set them so the frog screw advance on the later types or bedrocks don't hold any magic for me. In all my years of using planes I can recall only one time that I moved the frog to change the mouth opening.

unbelievable shavings
I set it for equal R/L shavings and then I made a boatload of the fluffy things. Something magical to me when I see them effortlessly come spilling up and out.

see my dilemma
The #6 sticks out looking real pretty while it's neighbors look like junk yard wrecks. I will do the Stanleys for sure but I haven't decided what to do with the LN or LV planes.

used the original iron in the #4
I decided to try the iron that came with the #4 to see how it would work. It performed as well as any other #4 iron/chipbreaker that I have used.

why I wanted to put it aside
This is what bothered me about this setup. Looking underneath the chipbreaker hump I can see white. I can't see through the chipbreaker/iron meeting, just a white line. I planed a boatload of shavings with this and when I was done I checked this. I found absolutely nothing jammed or underneath the chipbreaker. Nothing more annoying than getting shavings jammed up in the chipbreaker. I don't know how to explain the white line but it obviously isn't effecting making shavings.

cleaned the tape residue
I got that cleaned up but there are few spots that I think are epoxy spills. I'll leave that for this weekend to fix. I am still calling this done regardless.

I found out something tonight about the blog I didn't know. If you do a double enter key stroke, that the blog gets published. How do I know this? I did it while writing this blog post.  I'll have to try and remember that quirk. I checked unplugged shop but it doesn't appear that it got published. Maybe I got lucky and reverted it back to a draft before that happened.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a lepidopterist is someone who collects or studies butterflies?

Book Giveaway: Wood Finishing 101

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 01/26/2018 - 7:19am
Wood Finishing 101

This week I’m giving away a copy of Bob Flexner’s “Wood Finishing 101.” This book is a great step-by-step guide for simple finishes. Simply post a comment below and I’ll choose 1 winner at random. Winner will be announced Monday 1/29. Good luck!

The post Book Giveaway: Wood Finishing 101 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

new toys.......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 01/26/2018 - 12:31am
Got two in the mail, one for me and one for Miles. My toy is a replacement Record 044 and Miles got a 1/4" pigsticker. Can't honestly say that I'm thrilled to pieces with either one. That is the luck of the draw when you buy old tools. Both will need a bit of fettling to give the warm and fuzzy feeling.


1/4" pigsticker
I decided that I am going to get a 1/4" and 3/8" pigsticker for Miles's toolbox for now. These are the two most common size mortises and should get him going. I'm sure that before he gets to use either of these, I'll have added a couple of more to the herd.

funny shaped handle
It doesn't feel too bad in my hands but I think it will be way too big for Miles.  I may thin this down a bit and keep the oval shape.

my new 044
The rods from my first 044 with what I now think are hang holes. The new 044 rods don't have them.

first rods fit the new 044
The fit of the rods is still sloppy. And the sloppy fit is consistent in all four holes.

the fence works
The fence will cock itself on the rods but I can also make it parallel. Far away or in close, I was able to duplicate cocking and making it parallel. Once I tightened down the fence screws, it was tight and maintained the setting.

plowed a long groove
I started at the front and worked back taking full length strokes when I got there. I had no problems with the fence and it maintained it self up tight against the edge.

first one on the bottom, new one on the top
The new one has more nickel loss and the handle is showing rust on it. The screws from the first one are in better shape looks and rust wise over the new one. I can swap these out with each other.

10mm rods
They fit snugly in the new plane body and they fit only in the front holes on the fence. They barely go in 1/8" and no more.

eyeball for parallel looks good
it was off 32nd
It was easy to correct but this will prove to be a PITA with each use. Maybe with new rods I won't have to do these dance steps. For now it is an improvement over the first 044.

both rods wiggle in the holes
The back rod wiggles much more then the front one does. I really had to crank the screws to tighten them down and remove all movement in them.

done with all the sanding
I won't be able to get these put together tonight. I'll be tomorrow before I can show the glamour pics.

the tote broke again
I am not impressed with the gorilla glue at all. This is my third time using it and it is the third time it has failed on me. I put water on side and applied the glue to the other side. I got some foaming so this should not have broken again on the same line again.

I'm using epoxy this time
clamped with electrician's tape
I am doing one last check to make sure it is flush before I set it by the furnace to set up overnight.

10mm rods
McMaster said the rods would be .02 less then 10mm.

new fence rod
second fence rod is thinner
This is why one rod is looser in the holes than the others. This time I'll take Steve's advice and buy the 9.9mm rods. They are less the 6 inches long but I haven't had to make a groove more than an inch in from an edge yet. The rods that came with the 044 are about a 1/2" longer so I'm not losing much.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know the longest refueled plane flight was made in a Cessna 172 and it lasted for 64 days, 22 hours, 19 minutes, and 5 seconds?  (Bob Timm and John Cook were the two pilots who did this in 1959)

Phil’s Turning Tip: Turning Wooden Spoons on the Lathe

Highland Woodworking - Thu, 01/25/2018 - 8:00am

In this month’s issue of The Highland Woodturner, Phil Colson demonstrates how he turns wooden spoons on his lathe, an interesting alternative to carving.

Spoons, spoons, spoons, everybody is getting into carving spoons. Spoon carving is a great hobby. I like to make spoons also, but I do it with the lathe.

Take a look at how he does it in this month’s Phil’s turning tip, and while you are at it you can read through the rest of this fascinating issue of The Highland Woodturner!

Click here to read the article

The post Phil’s Turning Tip: Turning Wooden Spoons on the Lathe appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Ash splint basket course in Cornwall

Steve Tomlin Crafts - Thu, 01/25/2018 - 6:15am
Ash splint basket making UK Learn to weave ash splint baskets in Cornwall 17th -18th March 2018 Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

How Trees Grow

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 01/25/2018 - 5:34am
How Wood Grows

Being a woodworker of many years I have friends who will constantly ruin a good walk in the woods with questions of, “what type of tree is that?” Truth is, I’m not really very good at identifying trees. I’m much better at identifying a slab of lumber! I recognize the wood in the form I’m most familiar with. I’d like to be able to identify trees, but it doesn’t strongly […]

The post How Trees Grow appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

I'm this close......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 01/25/2018 - 12:26am
......mental pic of thumb and forefinger being squished together. I still have neither the #4 or the #6 done. I am oh so close, but still no dancing in the streets. It is looking like it will be a few more days before they are done.  Sanding both planes with 400 and 600 grit is taking longer than I anticipated. But that is all that is needed to be completed on the #6.

The #4 needs that, and the finish applied to the tote and knob, and some more sanding action on the lever cap followed by buffing. The iron for the #4 is toast. I spent a little time trying to get the chipbreaker to lay flat on the back of it and I couldn't get it. The chipbreaker is good and I can use that but I'll have to use one of my spare #4 irons on this plane.

#4 tote
I got 3 coats brushed on this last night before supper and before I finally hit the rack. The crack didn't disappear but the shellac toned down the whiteness of the line.

more noticeable on this side
Not perfect but acceptable. I just may have to elevate the status of this plane to a user vice a parts plane.

putting the yoke back on the #4
I read a blog on restoring  planes where they removed the lateral adjust lever.  He filed the back side of the pin that is peened. The installation just said to peen the pin again. No pics or any verbiage in explanation of removing or putting it back. For now I'll stick with just removing the yoke. That is easy for me to do both ways. But having the lateral adjust off would make sanding the frog face easier to do.

the ubiquitous blurry pic
I tried to sand this but the paper ripped because there is a big burr. This being brass, I thought I could sand it out but that didn't happen with 320 grit.

tried out my new files
I used 3 flat files and all 3 filed ok. I bought these mostly for the non flat ones for shaping in my upcoming class.

trimmed my 3 new sanding blocks
my biggest sanding block
I am thinking of putting this tote and a front spare tall knob on this. I also think it would benefit from some kind of holding thing to secure the sandpaper too. I won't put any cork on this until I make up mind on how to do this.

ready to start sanding
The plan is to use the big one on the #6 and the smaller on the #4.

gave me the willies
I tried sanding this on the bench but that wasn't working. I couldn't maintain control of the sanding block and the plane at the same time. Clamping this in the vice was giving me cold sweats. There is an incredibly super fine line between clamping this and saying 'aw shit, I broke it'. I sanded the sole with 400 and 600 grit and took it out of the vise.

smaller sanding block on the sides
 This is was how I spent the majority of my time in the shop tonight. Sanding can't be made glamorous with the written word nor can it be enhanced with pics. Doing the sides is easier than doing the sole but I'm thinking of making a jig for this. It's something to think about that would make the sanding easier and a bit more secure.

2 sprayed coats of shellac
I have a couple of cans of shellac and before they go bad I want use them up as I can. I will spray two more coats on theses and call it done.

knob is looking real good
The plane collector uses lacquer because he said that is what Stanley used. I like shellac as being friendlier to use. I don't have a lot of experience with lacquer. They last time I used spray lacquer in the basement it stunk up the whole house.  Shellac smells medicinal.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a standard credit card is 3 3/8 inches by 2 1/8 inches?

WATCH: Interview with Wendell Castle

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 01/24/2018 - 8:31am

Wendell Castle, the father of the art furniture movement, died Saturday at age 85. Many are mourning the loss of an innovative mind that brought art furniture to the mind of the masses. In 2016, we documented an interview with Oscar Fitzgerald and Wendell. There are many insights to glean, please enjoy this video on YouTube Live this afternoon. Hop over to the live stream HERE.  Purchase the DVD or video download here. […]

The post WATCH: Interview with Wendell Castle appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Barn Workshop – Historic Finishing

The Barn on White Run - Wed, 01/24/2018 - 5:13am

April 26-28 Historic Finishing – My own long-time favorite, we will spend three days reflecting on, and enacting, my “Six Rules For Perfect Finishing” in the historic tradition of spirit and wax coatings.  Each participant may bring a small finishing project with them, but I have found that invitation to have erratic responses so the workshop will focus on creating numerous sample boards to keep in your personal collections.  Tuition $375.

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The complete 2018 Barn workshop schedule:

Historic Finishing  April 26-28, $375

Making A Petite Dovetail Saw June 8-10, $400

Boullework Marquetry  July 13-15, $375

Knotwork Banding Inlay  August 10-12, $375

Build A Classic Workbench  September 3-7, $950

 

If any of these interest you, contact me here.

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