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General Woodworking

Looking For A Podcast?

360 WoodWorking - Tue, 03/07/2017 - 4:45am
Looking For A Podcast?

Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve heard from a number of regular listeners about the missing 360 With 360Woodworking podcast. Just to calm some of the talk, 360 Woodworking is working on new ideas concerning the podcast. There are a few announcements to be made after a couple of details get worked out. A couple of snags have developed.

Fear not regular listeners. The 360 With 360Woodworking podcast will reappear in the next week or two with a new format and new concept, but with the same great woodworking information.

Continue reading Looking For A Podcast? at 360 WoodWorking.

new molding plane road tested.......

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 03/07/2017 - 12:32am
Today was cold but not as cold as it was yesterday. It turns out that I was OTL on the weather report big time. Tomorrow (tuesday) it is supposed to start warming up and rain all day off and on. Wednesday is the day the temps are supposed to get close to 60°F (15°C). Along with the warm temps it is supposed to be partly cloudy. I double, triple checked this for accuracy but this is New England. We could also get buried under a blizzard or be hit with a nor'easter. So I'll wait and see what shakes out.

the 79 sold
Someone asked for it but I didn't get the address today. I shipped out the tequila box and had a very pleasant experience at the post office. Both clerks were waiting on customers and I was in and out in less than 5 minutes.  The 79 will go out once I get the address.

Since Wally World is next door to the post office, I made pit stop there too. I needed some moo cow juice and cereal. Wally World has good prices on cereal but didn't have any 2% milk. Sometimes you have to settle and I did with 1% milk.

no interest from anyone
This block plane is like the freckle faced, red headed, cross eyed, stuttering, step child. Nobody loves this or wants it. This is the second time I've tried to unload this so I'll keep it. It does take good shavings and the only hiccup with it is the missing front knob. None of these knobs came close to fitting.

this #4 knob doesn't look that bad
There isn't anything except epoxying this in place that might work securing this knob.  That is all I can think of right now. I'm even doubtful that epoxy would work here.

the stem is threaded
I have a small 1/2" threading tap(s) that might work. It's worth a try. (In hindsight I should have measured it first.)

piece of ash left over from the plane iron storage
 I roughly bandsawed this round and drilled a3/8" hole in the center. It's been over a million moons since I last used this and I'm not sure that I drilled the right sized hole. And did I drill in the right grain orientation too?

starter tap and a bottoming tap
the threads don't look so good
It didn't fit on the stub. It was too loose and I didn't feel any threads engaging.

size of the outside diameter of the threads on the stub
OD of the 1/2" tap
As we would say in the navy, 'don't piss into a head wind if don't want to get wet'. I'll have to think of something else.

flattened the back
This plane came from Josh at Hyperkitten. I wanted to use this plane to profile the fence for the plane storage but it was dull and wouldn't make a shaving. The back flattened quickly and this was the easiest one I've done to date.

very good match between the sole and the iron
done up to 1200
There is a flat on the right and it looks like there is another on the left. There is no flat there, it is a S shape.

flat on the right has a slight hollow
DMT paddles
I tried to use these to sharpen the flat but I stopped. The flat is small and I was afraid that I was rounding it over more than I was getting it flat. Especially worrisome was that I wasn't making the hollow any smaller.

used the stones
I felt until I had the flat on the stone and I pulled it  back towards me. I didn't push it forward at all, just backwards. I did 10 strokes on each of the 3 diamond stones and finished up on the 8K japanese water stone. Then I stropped it.

nice and shiny
stropped the S curve too
the profile
There isn't much of a fence and there are no spring lines to guide me. These planes are a wee bit more temperamental to use then ones with bigger fences or spring lines.

pretty profile
I got my profile but I didn't do it correctly. I have a burnish mark on the top of the board and I shouldn't have any. That burnish mark tells me I did not hold the plane in the right orientation. I had it pitched forward too much inboard over the board and bearing down on that too hard.

that is it for the fence contact area
No matter what, you have keep the same attitude on the plane until plane stops cutting. Moving the plane inboard or outboard even a few degrees will throw the profile off. This is pass #2 and I didn't have any burnish marks on top of the board.

first pass on the bottom and second one on top
Both profiles look good and this is a pretty profile that will look good on an edge.  The bottom shoulder is slanted and the top one is square. That is due to how I held the plane as I went down the board.

close up pic
First pass on the bottom and second one on top.

repeated it on the other edge - passes 3 and 4

better pic of passes 3 and 4
Once I had part of the profile on the edge of the board, I used that to help me plane. I tried to get whatever portion of the profile that was showing even end to end. I have learned a few things about playing with molding planes this past week. I have one profile that I haven't had luck making that I'm going to try it again now.

ready to stow in the plane till
 Before I put any planes back in the plane till I retract the iron. It isn't so much so to protect the iron, I do it mostly to keep the iron from chewing up the shelf the plane rests on.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What are you suffering from if you are hyperthymic?
answer - from being exceptionally positive in  mood and disposition

Tips from Sticks in the Mud – March 2017 – Tip #2 – Twist Ties

Highland Woodworking - Mon, 03/06/2017 - 7:00am

No Southern-fried Southern boy wants to be called a Yankee, but we share the characteristics of shrewdness and thrift. Thus, each month we include a money-saving tip. It’s OK if you call me “cheap.

When you purchase a new garden hose it comes with some really long twist ties. Forget those little things that come on your bag of bread, I’ve seen some over a foot long. Save them.

This new garden hose has three very long twist ties that I will save for many future handy uses.

Twist ties can even be used to hold, well, twist ties.

Long twist ties are worth having around for organizing all kinds of things around the shop, from wires that need arranging to those little flags AT&T put all over your yard when they ran your new phone cable (and cut the TV cable with the Ditch Witch).

Don’t ever throw these little flags away, they can be so handy! Once, I needed to dig a winding drainage ditch. Nature had already shown me the path the water wanted to take. To accommodate its natural tendency, and make sure I didn’t go off course, I put flags in the ground on that natural path to make it completely clear where I needed to dig. Not only is there no point in buying flags, but when the time comes that you need them, you won’t want to have to stop what you’re doing to go to the hardware store.

This big roll of electrical cable could be wrapped with two zip ties joined together. but there is no need to waste those expensive little buggers. One of these (free) twist ties will go around the whole thing.

Maybe you need to temporarily hang a power cord from the ceiling. Loop and twist around a screw in the ceiling, then loop and twist around the cord. Problem solved!

If the cord is too heavy for a twist tie, use a coat hanger. Stretched out straight, one end can go on the ceiling screw, the other around the cord.

For a more permanent solution, like this outdoor spot where I do a lot of sanding, I’ve used screw hooks permanently installed in the joists of the deck overhead. I can manage an entire 100-foot extension cord with none lying on the table in my way.

And, when you just need a little encouragement, nothing fills the bill like a pelican. In the absence of a pelican, a cat like Max makes a great stand-in.

Jim Randolph is a veterinarian in Long Beach, Mississippi. His earlier careers as lawn mower, dairy farmer, automobile mechanic, microwave communications electronics instructor and journeyman carpenter all influence his approach to woodworking. His favorite projects are furniture built for his wife, Brenda, and for their children and grandchildren. His and Brenda’s home, nicknamed Sticks-In-The-Mud, is built on pilings (sticks) near the wetlands (mud) on a bayou off Jourdan River. His shop is in the lower level of their home.Questions and comments on woodworking may be written below in the comments section. Questions about pet care should be directed to his blog on pet care, www.MyPetsDoctor.com. We regret that, because of high volume, not all inquiries can be answered personally.

The post Tips from Sticks in the Mud – March 2017 – Tip #2 – Twist Ties appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event March 10-11, Greater Cincinnati

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 03/06/2017 - 6:39am

The Popular Woodworking team is looking forward to the end of this week – instead of reporting to the office for work on Friday morning, we’ll be meeting bright and early at Braxton Brewing Co. to set up for the 2017 Greater Cincinnati Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event. I’ll be there Saturday as well…but perhaps not bright nor early – but by 10 a.m. for sure! (That’s when the doors open […]

The post Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event March 10-11, Greater Cincinnati appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Spoon carving straight from the tree

Steve Tomlin Crafts - Mon, 03/06/2017 - 1:56am
If you thought carving wooden spoons was just for men with beards, you need to see this post. Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

plane iron storage......

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 03/06/2017 - 12:34am
It was 7 frigging degrees fahrenheit this morning when I woke up. For the non imperial guys, that is minus 13.3 celsius. It is march 5th and we have single digit temperatures before the sun rises. As cold as it was there wasn't any frost on the truck or car. But I did have frost on the inside of the back screen door.  Tomorrow is supposed to get close to 60°F (15.5°C). I guess the in like a lion and out like lamb is playing out now.

chunk of ash
There are 13 dadoes for the iron storage and I didn't want to make it in a softwood. I also didn't want to make it in a wider piece of hardwood. This was the smallest piece of ash I had and I think the width is just right.

backed up the first one
I moved the first dado back to 1 1/2" so I had room to get my hand in here to take it out. First dado is done for the 10 1/2.

2nd dado
I knifed a line and sawed down on them. I'm using this also as an exercise in sawing to a line. I didn't do so good on the first one. The walls are pretty straight but I overshot the depth.

removing the waste with a 1/8" chisel
I did the removal from both sides. I made a vee coming from the bottom going to the top. I kept at it until I flattened it out.

back side of the saw cut
I was trying to end my saw cuts on the gauge line and I did ok on the majority of them. The backsides of the saw cut wandered a bit off the line. Overall, over the 26 saw cuts, they were fairly straight and plumb.

used the saw cuts for the chiseling depth
I couldn't find a router with a 1/8" cutter. LN makes a 3/32" iron as does Lee Valley. Lee Valley makes a 1/16" cutter but neither makes a 1/8" one. This depth isn't critical in that it needs to be dead nuts flat. Close to flat with no rocking is what I'm shooting for.

gave up on the saw cuts
2 done with 11 to go. Already made a change in the spacing. My layout had 3/8" between the dadoes and I changed it 1/2". I found it easier to use the iron themselves to see how flat the bottom was.. The smallest little bump will make them rock.

how I got the dado depth
I set the gauge to be a frog hair under the screw. The 10 1/2 and the #3 were the same, the rest of the irons were all different.

#3 above, this is a 4 1/2"
Each iron increased roughly an 1/8" over the proceeding ones.

it's a rocking
Leveling the bottoms of the dadoes turned out to be much easier to do than I thought it would be. I was able to do all 13 without any major hiccups. I know this one is too high because of the screw. That should be a lot closer to the top of the dado.

two more to do
I have some empty dado slots but they should be filled up next week. I found and ordered two more #4 irons and chipbreakers and a couple of #3 chipbreakers. That will give me 3 iron/chipbreakers to swap out on them. I also ordered a #8 chipbreaker for the solo #8 iron.

I got this many irons because I hate to sharpen. It always seems too that the need to sharpen comes right in the middle of something. With at least two irons for each plane (except for the 10 1/2), I can swap out the dull iron and put in a fresh sharpened one.

my depth gauge
The line on the board is the top of the drawer.  This is the #8 iron and I am just under the wire. The two dadoes for the #8 irons were the deepest ones I had to do.

first hiccup
My saw cut for the LN iron is tapered. It fits on the left side but is a very tight fit on the right.

hiccup #2
The second dado isn't tapered, it's too narrow and the iron won't fit at all. I couldn't find a file or rasp to fit in the dado so I could widen it. Had a crazy thought to chisel the end grain but the chisel wouldn't fit neither. I fixed the two of them on the tablesaw.

they fit snug now
the lineup minus the new kids coming
where they are going to live
A quick couple of in and outs with the drawer and the irons were still in place. (I fixed the one tilted 4 1/2 iron)

cut hazard
I could put the sharp end going the other way up against the drawer side but I like it this way.

need a fence here
it's sharp
I am going to mold the top edge of the fence so it isn't just a square edge.

anointed with blood
rounded over the top edge
this turned out pretty good
screwed it in place from the bottom
The fence is just screwed in place with no glue. I don't won't this to be permanent case I want to change it down the road.

can't screw this
The back is for future expansion so I don't know if a screw will be in the way.  I could put one at the front but I may want to do something there too. I like having this without screws and nails to work around so I had to think of another way of securing this.

OBG and rub blocks
using a practice astragal molding
I sawed this off the board and then sawed off four pieces to use as rub blocks.

done
I put two blocks at the front and back. That iron holder is a snug fit front to back so the four  rub blocks should keep it from moving.

This is all I did in the shop today. I planned on setting the kitchen sink cabinet but that didn't happen neither. Instead I slept and watched a couple of my DVDs on planes.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Major Walter C Winfield?
answer - He created Sphairistikè in 1873 which became the modern game of tennis

a day of rest......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 03/05/2017 - 2:09am
After I got home today from doing OT, I was spent. I did not want to get up to go to work this morning. It was a rare day for me in that I knew I could have rolled over and gone back to sleep.  But to work I went, did my time, came home, and felt like a deflated balloon. Another rare occurrence for me was I couldn't get motivated to do do anything in the shop. I tried a couple of things but gave up on doing anything in shop today.

I did finish this
I got the tequila bottle packed in the box and then packed that in another box.

used some of these foam sheets too
I'm sure the box this will get the snot knocked out of it being shipped so I don't want to rely solely on wood shavings. The wooden box will protect the tequila and the foam will help to keep it immobile.

ready to ship
This is packing box #2 because I forgot to add a few things in the first one. The most important one was a piece of paper with the from and to addresses on it. A lesson learned the hard way and I usually always put the to/from addresses in the box now. Just in case the address on the box goes south somehow. I'll ship this out on monday.

next project
This was to be the lead off batter today but the line up got shuffled. The spice rack and paper towel holder are both done and I don't have any other projects from the wife so this will have to wait now. It's going to be a book rack/shelf. I've made several of them in pine and one in poplar. This one will be walnut and cherry.

this became the lead off batter
All of these irons are loose in a drawer right now. That is not a particularly good way to stow them. Decided to do something about and nothing like the present to fix a potential problem. My first thoughts on fixing will shock regular readers - put them in a box?

4 1/2" chipbreaker
I started this last week and today I finished it. I want to try out the 4 1/2" iron I got from 'Tools from Japan'. I need a chipbreaker to do that.

the chipbreaker screw is iffy
I have two more of these that I can try because this one barely catches. I couldn't screw it in then slip the iron over the chipbreaker. I had to position the chipbreaker on the iron first and then screw it together.

wispy shavings out of the box
I didn't do anything to this iron at all. I didn't strop it or flatten the back neither. I couldn't feel a difference in this iron over the one I had in the plane previously.

sailed right through the knot like it wasn't there
I will hone this iron and round the corners off. It came sharpened at 30° where all my other irons are done at 25° (except on LN iron at 30°). I'm not sure if I'll keep it at 30 or slowly change it over to 25.

it works
This is a 45° template that I have tried to use 3 times already without any success. Today I nailed it. The other times I tried it I used the chisel going straight down and the isn't a lot of real estate to guide the chisel. Today I tried a different approach. I started with a freshly sharpened chisel and I started at the top right corner of the guide. I went with a sweeping motion going from the top diagonally down and form the left to the right. Doing that ensured that the back of the chisel was in contact with both legs of the template.

looks good
it's 45°
I haven't had any opportunities for using this but now it's ready to go.

Stanley #120 block plane
It works and makes nice shavings.

the only hiccup
It's missing it's wooden knob. I haven't bothered to go nutso doing a rehab on this. All I did on it was to sharpen the iron a little. I got this on an auction bid that was included with other things I wanted. I tried to sell this before and didn't get any takers. This I'm offering it up for shipping in a flat rate box which I think is about $6.50. If you want it, the first email yada, yada, yada.........

my rehabbed Stanley 79
I spent a lot of time restoring this. When I got it was covered with rust and rust blooms but it cleaned up nicely. Almost 100% of the nickel is still on it too.

the fences were the worse
I had to use heat to get the screws that hold the fences on off. The shoes were rusted in place and I galled the right hand screw a bit getting it out.

it's clean as a whistle now
the iron beds are clean and pit free
irons
I didn't do anything with the irons and this is the same condition I received them in. They are sharp and make shavings.

body is straight
I bought the LN side rabbet planes and I should have them next week according UPS. I thought about keeping the 79 but I don't see the need for it. I am putting it up for adoption and the fee is $40 including shipping in a flat rate box to the lower 48. The drill is the same as above - the first email yada, yada, yada.........

square
Getting square with hand planes has become an almost given for me now.  I have a friend that is always telling me he can't get square with his planes. He also has a two plugged in jointers and doesn't use his planes as much as I do. I don't have a plug in jointer to fall back on. I have only my planes to get 90 for me.

This hasn't always been the case for me and I've struggled trying to get square edges for many years. I had given up on a lot of attempts and resorted to using my powered jointer. My thoughts on this always go back to the old masters that didn't have the luxury of using a jointer with a plug. They had to plane square or else. It was something they did and it was something I wanted to do.

I think getting square with planes is just a matter of practice. It's like sawing to a line or chiseling dovetails. It is just another skill set that is needed to do hand tool only woodworking. It is only in the last year or so that getting square edges fell into place for me. And I can get it with just about all my bench planes. I still have problems getting square with Lee Valley bevel up jack. I don't use it that often and I don't have good luck correcting for out of square with it neither. I usually have to use the 4 1/2 to fix it.

I really don't know what my technique is, I just know that one day I planed an edge and felt like it was square. When I checked it the edge was square end to end. I seem to be an automatic mode when I plane and I'm sure it is memory and practice paying off.

back to the regularly scheduled TV channel
Scrapped the box idea and now I'm going with sticking them in the drawer.  I need room for 13 irons and I have 15" front to back in the drawer. This layout is for 3/16" grooves and needs only about 9" total length.

#8 iron and chipbreaker
A bit too loose causing the the iron to flop around. I want these to stay in place as I open and close the drawer.

dropped down to 1/8"
This is a strong 1/8". I knifed one of the lines on the waste side. I sawed the walls and cleaned out the waste with a 1/8" chisel.

better fit
It's one frog hair from being snug.

LN irons are loose
4 1/2 iron and chipbreaker
This one is snug and the iron that came from 'Tools from Japan' is tight. That one I have to push down to seat it. It is looking like I am going to have to customize each slot for each iron.

1/8" set up bar
Just realized that I don't have a 1/8" iron for any of my routers. Do they make any that small? I'll be searching for that after this blog is done.

Maybe tomorrow I'll get some woodworking squeezed in and not have another rambling, ping pong adventure like today.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Roger Bannister was the first runner to break the 4 minute mile. How long did he hold the world record?
answer - 46 days

molding plane work......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 03/04/2017 - 1:44am
I have acquired quite a herd of molding planes over the past couple of years. Some of them I don't have any problems using and others make me feel as smart as a box of rocks. I want to be able to reach into my molding plane till, pull out any plane, and use it. So far that is hit or miss but I am making progress. I am more of a do and learn type then I am a read, do and learn one. What I learn by just doing sticks with me more than the printed word does.

first batter
I bought this based on the profile and the price which I think was around $10. When I first got it, it worked on my first attempt. Turns out that was pure dumb luck on my part. I have tried it several times since then without even getting a shaving.

I learned a few things from playing with the other molding planes and I am going to see if any of that pays off here.  First I got the iron set so that it showing about the same reveal along the whole profile. I have also learned that the fraction stamped on this plane is the profile size and not the thickness of stock it will plane.

planed this profile on wednesday
I got this planed and now it's time to see if I can repeat it. Which is something I haven't done with this plane since I got it.

I set the iron deeper
I could barely feel the iron here at the top when I ran my finger tips over it. This is the portion of the iron that cuts first. If this doesn't take any shavings at first, this plane isn't going anywhere.

it's obvious viewed from here
This is something that I didn't think of when I tried to plane with this and couldn't. I thought it was the wood being too thick.

bottom of the plane is cutting
The plane will continue to drop down as long as this portion of the iron is cutting. After this cove is started the inside edge of the profile starts cutting.

plane stopped making shavings here
I know now that no shavings means the iron probably reveal isn't high enough.

set it deeper
The cove portion at the top is done cutting for now and the side of the cove needs to be proud so it can start cutting. I set the iron a bit deeper to increase the iron's reveal.

it's making shavings again
50% done
The plane is still taking shavings but were small.  I had to advance the iron a bit more to complete the S shape.



making shavings again after setting the iron

I'm not happy with how much is sticking up at the bottom
almost got the entire S shape
bit flat at the top here and it should be rounded

done
I did it. I repeated making the profile twice in a row.  I am making progress on using these but not at a speed I like. But you have to crawl before you walk.

I had to set the iron several times
Don't go nutso on me saying I used the wrong hammer. This was handy when I snapped this pic. I use my plastic mallet for all my tapping on wooden planes.

this reveal made the profile
second plane in the batters circle
Based on what I just did with the first plane, I'm trying for 2 for 2. This profile is a thumbnail with a shoulder.

same operative theory for this one too
The flat on the right cuts first and as the plane drops down, the cove starts to cut too.

raised the flat proud of the sole
going nowhere
This was frustrating to think I was on the right track and get no shavings. The plane dropped down maybe 1/8" and stopped making shavings.

thumbnail planed a thin piece of wood
comparing the reveals
I saw the problem right away. I have a lot of the flat revealed but almost nothing on the cove portion.

this is a nice looking profile
Once I got the reveal upped, I was able to plane the entire profile without having to set the iron again.

how much reveal made the profile
a little rough on the round over
I have noticed that roughness is usually caused by one or two things. The first is the iron being dull which in this case isn't the culprit. The other is the iron is set too deep. Here I think it might be a contributing factor but the grain is squirrely here too.

real bad tear out here by the knot

I was pretty happy with what I got done tonight. I made two profiles that for some time now have eluded me. But I have learned a few things about molding planes and with each use, I'm getting better at figuring out problems and being able to make shavings.

my newest molder
The profile of this iron is mismatched with the sole profile. The big dip is what I scribed and the smaller one is what I think it should be. Before I can fix this to match the plane's profile, I have get it scribed correctly.




With the iron set in the plane as I can it won't plane the profile. The flat is angled the wrong way and the bottom of the cove is up about 1/8". Even with a hydraulic ram pushing the plane, I doubt that you could make a profile.

how I scribed it the first time
why the first scribe line is toast
I didn't see this the first time around. I put the scribe at the mouth and moved it left to right. The scribe dipped down beneath the top level of the mouth and scribed the line too deep.  The scribe can't fit in the thumbnail of the sole so I couldn't accurately scribe the profile.

dental pick will work
This was on the bench so I tried it. It has a flat that I can lay in the bed and maintain it flat on the thumbnail profile while I scribe the entire iron.  I'll erase the layout fluid on the iron and try round two and see what results I get.

recommendation from Bob Demers
I remember Bob Demers telling me that this is some pretty good stuff and that he has been using it for years. On Lee Valley's site I found this. I bought a couple of things from the kit because I had a few of them already.  I bought the turkish towel for rubbing this out.

bought this too
Both of these leave a protective finish but I'm not 100% sure what this one really does. My impression of it that it is a long term protective finish.

medium and fine erasers
These I had and I'll be tossing them in the box with the polish and protective stuff.

got a use for the small box now
test time
I like shiny and would like to keep this as shiny as I can. However, through normal shop use this will turn grungy in about a month. The instructions with the Autosol say to apply a small amount in a circular motion and then wipe/buff it off. It warns not to let this dry and to remove it from cracks and crevices with alcohol right away. Then apply more Autosol in the normal fashion and wipe/buff it off.

I'm a impressed
This raised the shine quite a bit. Both the application cloth and the buffing rag were as black as the edge of space when I got done. I did both cheeks and the sole. I will keep an eye on this to see if it drags or anything when I plane something. I will also keep an eye on how long this lasts. If it works, I'll do all my planes with it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
The Frenchman Alfred Vacheron was the first to put a steering wheel on a car in 1894. Who was the first american car maker to do it?
answer - Packard did it in 1899

Speechless

The Furniture Record - Fri, 03/03/2017 - 9:28pm

img_4072

When he sees this, Roy’s heart breaks just a little…


Not Bored Cutting

The Kilted Woodworker - Fri, 03/03/2017 - 3:00pm
I recently had a need to make a cutting board for someone. I wanted to make something unusual, with some highly figured domestic woods – most likely maple and walnut. I prefer these species because their pores are closed (or at least very tiny), which I think is better for something on which food will […]
Categories: General Woodworking

March Poll: Selling Tools (continued)

Highland Woodworking - Fri, 03/03/2017 - 7:00am

Are you a tightwad, like me?

I know there are many of us out there. We pinch pennies and we are so attached to them we lose our appetites when the government talks about doing away with them. (Can you imagine what a government program to discontinue pennies would cost taxpayers? I shudder to even think about it.)

I once asked Alan Noel a paintbrush-cleaning question. He replied that “Since I am the world’s cheapest !*&/$#?\, first I dip the brush into lacquer thinner then I use Ivory bar soap (very cheap!) and rub the brush onto it under water then lather it up, rinse and repeat until the lather is absolutely snow white. This is how I clean a brush”…. I knew I liked this guy for a good reason!

Last month we talked about how to sell tools, and this month we want to think about how much we expect to get for them.

As of this writing, 21% of us said they wouldn’t even try to sell their old tools, but would give them away as gifts to our fellow woodworkers, like Jimmy Diresta did in this video.

Another 11% of us couldn’t bear to part with their old tools. I can relate. I have some surgical instruments and an old stethoscope that have simply become worn out, but I won’t throw them out. Maybe I’ll make a shadow box collection one day.

I could no more throw away this old Skilsaw than I could throw away my little Willie.

Somebody said you could get a pretty good price for a little poodle on Craigslist, but Willie’s not for sale. Or giveaway.

The Osborne Excalibur miter gauge I have, still in the box, sells for $120 to $140 at various outlets. I know no one will pay full price for it, even though it’s not “used,” which leaves me thinking, what would it take for me to part with it? For fifty bucks I’ll let it hang around, in case I want to assemble it one day, even though I couldn’t be happier with my Incra 1000.

Last month we asked how you sell your tools. This month, we’d like to know how much you expect to get for them:

Take Our Poll (function(d,c,j){if(!d.getElementById(j)){var pd=d.createElement(c),s;pd.id=j;pd.src='https://blog.woodworkingtooltips.com/wp-content/plugins/polldaddy/js/polldaddy-shortcode.js';s=d.getElementsByTagName(c)[0];s.parentNode.insertBefore(pd,s);} else if(typeof jQuery !=='undefined')jQuery(d.body).trigger('pd-script-load');}(document,'script','pd-polldaddy-loader'));

Jim Randolph is a veterinarian in Long Beach, Mississippi. His earlier careers as lawn mower, dairy farmer, automobile mechanic, microwave communications electronics instructor and journeyman carpenter all influence his approach to woodworking. His favorite projects are furniture built for his wife, Brenda, and for their children and grandchildren. His and Brenda’s home, nicknamed Sticks-In-The-Mud, is built on pilings (sticks) near the wetlands (mud) on a bayou off Jourdan River. His shop is in the lower level of their home.Questions and comments on woodworking may be written below in the comments section. Questions about pet care should be directed to his blog on pet care, www.MyPetsDoctor.com. We regret that, because of high volume, not all inquiries can be answered personally.

The post March Poll: Selling Tools (continued) appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

tequila box done and a rabbet plane.......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 03/03/2017 - 12:52am
The tequila box is done but it won't be shipping until next week. I put one coat of my new finish on it and it will need one more. Since the post office will be closed by the time I get home from OT on saturday, it'll be shipped out next week sometime.

In the interim, winter has come back to my part of the universe. We have had nice weather with temps in the 50's and 60's for over a week. Saturday is forecasted to have wind chills of 5-10 degrees F (about -13°C). Tonight the temp is going to dip down into the low 20's. This morning when I went to work the temp was 55°F (12°C). That is a quite a swing in one day.

whacked out the thumb grab first
This gouge is getting dull in spite of the bevel looking so shiny. I didn't want to stop to do that so I stropped it. I stuck in the vise and ran the strop over the bevel. It worked and I didn't have any problems making this. Unfortunately, the stropping is a stop gap measure and I will have sharpen this.

planed the 1/4 astragals
The rabbets were deep enough that they didn't limit my planing of these. After I got them done I think I should have made the rabbets narrower.

first coat
I did a quick sanding of the box, dusted it off, and applied the first coat of finish. I like this finish and the slight color it gave the box. It can see a difference between the raw wood and this, especially on the end grain. Tomorrow I'll put on the second coat and brand it.  I'll box it up for shipping this weekend.

making a rabbet
Got a practice board, a marking gauge, and 1 1/4 wooden skew rabbet plane. Hand and eye coordination helps too.

knife a line
This line is the width of the rabbet.

use the point of the iron
You put the tip of the iron in the knife line you just made. The knife line will guide the iron from end to end with help from you.

start with the plane tilted
 Go slowly and keep the iron going in the knife line. It is easier to do than this looks. I started with the plane tilted about 45°.

of course I went off the knife line
I took my eye off of the plane for a second and this happened. The first couple of runs down the knife line you have to pay attention to what you are doing.

I had a small vee started and now I don't have to be as nutso watching to ensure that the plane is going the way I want it to.

wall established
Now as you progress from end to end you can start moving the plane to vertical. It will track down in the vee and plane the rabbet.

just about 90° to board here
big ass escapement hole
But little wimpy shavings coming out of it but that is due to the rabbet size.

not the best board to be planing a rabbet in
This board is knotty from end to end, with a lot of reversing grain. I got teat almost end to end.

except for the LV rabbet plane
I tend to veer inboard with fenceless rabbet planes. More so with this wooden one than with the 10 1/2 and not at all with the Lee Valley rabbet plane. The outboard edge is ragged out but the shoulder is fairly clean. It is step free and sharply defined right into the corner.

the lead in end
I didn't mark a dept for this and I should have. This is encouraging for me. I have a square shoulder and a reasonably flat rabbet on this end.

exit end
Not so good on this end. Not only am I sloping outboard, my shoulder is off square too.

went in the wrong direction
Got the shoulder squared up but I fixed the sloped rabbet by going in the wrong direction. Thank you again, my spatial ability.

fixed
Squared off but I now have a rabbet that is sloped down on this end .

I have been looking for a smaller wooden rabbet plane about 5/8" to 7/8" wide. It doesn't matter to me if it is skewed or not but I'm not having any luck. Most of the ones I seen are 1" and above. I'll find one eventually.

Between the wooden rabbet plane and the 10 1/2, I prefer the 10 1/2. I don't have the problems with the 10 1/2 that I do with the wooden one (as bad). Except with both, I do veer off on the exit end of the cut. I could probably even the score if I practiced more with the wooden one. That is why I want a smaller one.

I had put off trying to use planes like this because I thought I would never be able to master their use. They don't hold any secrets from me anymore and it is like any other handtool I've encountered, all it takes is practice. I learned just as much from my mistakes as I did getting good results.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first female athlete to appear in Wheaties "Breakfast of Champions" TV commercial?
answer - Mary Lou Retton in 1984

George, Anne and an Impostor.

The Furniture Record - Thu, 03/02/2017 - 10:33pm

Yet more interesting(?) things from a recent auction.

There were three very different low boys at the auction a few weeks back. It is unusual to have that many low boys at one auction. They are as follows:

George II Inlaid Low Boy

dsc_5522

This lot has sold for $260.

Description:  18th century, oak, pine secondary, top with banded veneer bordered edge, single long drawer above three side by side short drawers, shaped skirt, on cabriole legs with ball and claw feet.

Size:  29 x 31.5 x 18.5 in.

English Queen Anne Low Boy

dsc_5539

This lot has sold for $280.

Description:   18th century, oak and elm, pine secondary, upper long drawer above three side by side short drawers, boldly scrolled skirt, cabriole legs with pad feet.

Size:  28.75 x 30 x 19.5 in.

Henry Ford Museum Reproduction Low Boy
The Impostor

dsc_5634

This lot has sold for $260.

Description:   Colonial Manufacturing Co., with label and tag to interior of drawer, “Number 326 Mahogany Savery Low Boy”, upper long drawer above three side by side drawers, central with shell carving, fluted canted quarter columns, on cabriole legs with shell carved knee on ball and claw feet.

Size:  30 x 36 x 20.5 in.

I will mostly ignore the impostor for this blog. It has machine cut dovetails, believe it or not. The only interesting thing about it is the carved shell on the center drawer:

dsc_5635

Not necessarily entirely hand-carved.

We will now compare parts of the two remaining low boys starting with the aprons and some drawer area details:

dsc_5547

George II

dsc_5548

Queen Anne

Some carcass detail:

dsc_5525

More George with his banding.

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More Queen Anne with beaded drawers.

All low boys have legs:

dsc_5544

Queen Anne has a cabriole leg with a pad foot.

dsc_5654

The leg terminates with a tenon into the carcass.

dsc_5636

George favors the ball and claw foot.

The cabriole leg continues up:

dsc_5655

and becomes an integral part of the frame and panel construction.

dsc_5520

George II has proper dovetailed drawers. Nails optional.

dsc_5540

The Queen has only nails and no tails.

And edge treatments:

dsc_5656

George has a profiled top with banding.

dsc_5658

The Queen has a two tiered top with applied molding.

There was actually a fourth low boy at the auction:

Edwardian Inlaid Low Boy

dsc_5445

This lot has sold for $500

Description:  In the Queen Anne taste, circa 1900, mahogany, mahogany veneer, rectangular top with herringbone and sawtooth inlays, upper long drawer above a central hinged cabinet door flanked by two small drawers, shaped skirt, tall tapered legs with pad feet.

Size:  33 x 36 x 23 in.

And a fifth one at this weeks auction:

dsc_5778

This item to be sold on 3/4/2017.

Description:  Circa 1760, white pine secondary, top with molded edge, upper long lipped drawer above three side by side lipped drawers, shaped skirt with drop finials, raised on tall cabriole legs with pad feet.

Size:  32 x 35 x 21.5 in.

I will cover these later.


Tips from Sticks in the Mud – March 2017 – Tip #1 – Changing Leaky Tool Batteries

Highland Woodworking - Thu, 03/02/2017 - 7:00am

Welcome to “Tips From Sticks-In-The-Mud Woodshop.” I am a hobbyist who loves woodworking and writing for those who also love the craft. I have found some ways to accomplish tasks in the workshop that might be helpful to you, and I enjoy hearing your own problem-solving ideasPlease share them in the COMMENTS section of each tip.  If, in the process, I can also make you laugh, I have achieved 100% of my goals.

“This call may be monitored and recorded for better customer service.” Apparently, it’s true. Ever the frugal consumer, when a battery company puts a guarantee on their packaging that says they will repair or replace equipment damaged by battery leakage, I found out they do keep track of those claims. How? One day, I got this notice in the mail:

Dear Mr. Randolph,

In covering our batteries’ warranty to repair or replace items damaged by leakage, we have reimbursed you many times for electronics you have sent us. Along with cash reimbursements, we have included coupons for free batteries, redeemable through local merchants.

Each time, we have advised you to be sure to change batteries prior to their expiration date, and to quickly remove batteries when their charge is exhausted. Your latest warranty submission contains leaky batteries that are far beyond their printed expiry.

Unfortunately, we are unable to continue to provide warranty protection when the end user repeatedly ignores proper battery use instructions. In gratitude for your loyal use of ‘XXX’ batteries, we have enclosed your ruined radio and coupons with which you may obtain new ‘XXX’ batteries.”

I now use two techniques to prevent having electronics become ruined by leaky batteries.

One, I put a reminder in my computer (a phone reminder would work just as well) that tells me to change the batteries in certain equipment every-so-often. Each piece of equipment has its own reminder. By dating the batteries as they are installed in each piece, I am able to determine how long the battery will last in that particular item.

Every battery-powered thing I own has dated batteries. It’s easy to tell when batteries have gotten old.

Dates on the AA batteries in this transmitting shop monitor have shown me, over time, that they will last about 8 months. A computer reminder tells me to change the batteries before they discharge and leak, ruining the device.

By contrast, the receiving half of the same unit has an internal monitor that turns on a light when its 9-volt battery is low. Why can’t everything be like that?

I don’t need a battery-changing reminder for the receiver, but I do need a Post-It Note reminder to tell me why I don’t need a reminder.

My Nissan key fob, this micrometer, the microphones in the breathing monitors at our clinic and the glucose meter all use the same button battery. I keep one brand new battery in the clinic and one in the car, always ready, rather than each item having its own standby, with all of them getting older, and weaker.

I don’t use this little battery-powered Dremel much, but when no wall power is available, or in wet locations, it’s mighty handy. It takes less than a minute to slide the batteries back into their holster and into the Dremel.

Months often go by that I don’t need to use the metal detector. Therefore, I take the battery out every time I use it. Ditto for the electric screwdriver in the electrical belt.

Some items need to have their batteries in all the time, especially devices requiring battery backup. For the bedside clock and weather station, we have computer reminders to change the batteries before they can go bad.

Jim Randolph is a veterinarian in Long Beach, Mississippi. His earlier careers as lawn mower, dairy farmer, automobile mechanic, microwave communications electronics instructor and journeyman carpenter all influence his approach to woodworking. His favorite projects are furniture built for his wife, Brenda, and for their children and grandchildren. His and Brenda’s home, nicknamed Sticks-In-The-Mud, is built on pilings (sticks) near the wetlands (mud) on a bayou off Jourdan River. His shop is in the lower level of their home.Questions and comments on woodworking may be written below in the comments section. Questions about pet care should be directed to his blog on pet care, www.MyPetsDoctor.com. We regret that, because of high volume, not all inquiries can be answered personally.

The post Tips from Sticks in the Mud – March 2017 – Tip #1 – Changing Leaky Tool Batteries appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Table Saw Blades that Make the Cut

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 03/02/2017 - 5:16am
table saw blades

In the video excerpt below, Doug Dale, instructor at the Marc Adams School of Woodworking, explains the three basic table saw blades – rip cut, crosscut and combination – and show you how each one makes the cut. And, he tells you the one he thinks should be in every shop. For more from Doug on proper and safe use of this machine, check out his “Power Tool Essentials: The […]

The post Table Saw Blades that Make the Cut appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

The Golden Age Redux

The Barn on White Run - Thu, 03/02/2017 - 5:04am

I have long argued that we are living in two simultaneous Golden Ages, that of furniture making and that of tool making.  Never before in human history has a culture produced more superb furniture than we are right now, it’s just that most of the furniture is being made avocationally rather than vocationally, which is not to disregard the exquisite furniture being made by people who do it for a living.  It’s just that there are so many more “makers driven by passion” than those driven by income, a ratio I would  conclude is far north of 100:1.

The Golden Age of Tool Making is a bit different in that the purveyors for those particular narcotics in the marketplace are simultaneously driven by both passion and income.  Consider the upcoming Handworks event, where scores of professional woodworking tool makers will interact with thousands of woodworkers and tool aficionados, deep in the heart of the Iowa cornfields.  I am honored to count many of these toolmakers among my friends and acquaintances.

I am sure there are cranky toolmakers working under the nostrum of secrecy, but thus far I have yet to run into any of them.  My experience is that they are delighted that you are interested, and inevitably they will fill you with more information than you can digest at any one time.  They must understand this, as most of them have web pages that are archives of definitive and dispositive documents telling you almost everything you ever wanted to know about whatever it is that they make or do.  I keep several dozen of their sites bookmarked and visit them as often as I allow myself, knowing full well that the first click can result in an entire evening lost in pursuit of knowing more.

Occasionally one strikes my fancy or is so perfectly timed to a particular need that I find myself talking to myself in celebration.  Recently I have been doing some things with saws, some of which may eventually leak out into this blog, but most of which has to do with tuning up the saws that I already have.  With that in mind I was delighted to see a new (to me at least) offering over at Bad Axe on the care and feeding of  vintage back saws.  I am currently awaiting the fullness of time to get to a couple (four?  five?) of them hanging on my wall, and this page will no doubt serve as a valued resource once I get to that point.

In the service of full disclosure I should say that I have two Bad Axe back saws that I purchased from them, and have communicated with Mark Harrell fairly extensively on my two 4-foot late-18th Century frame saws, tools I use surprisingly often.  Someday I might show up on Mark’s doorstep with them in hand, and ask for a sharpening refresher tutorial.

tequila box.......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 03/02/2017 - 12:37am
I didn't oversleep today and got up at my normal time at oh dark 30. Still can't believe yesterday that I one, I overslept, and two, did it for so long. In twenty years in the Navy I was late once very early in my career. An old Master Chief chewed on my ass so hard and so long, I didn't have to use toilet paper for 6 months. To this day, I am always early much to the consternation of my wife. And by early I mean if I have an appointment on Monday at 0800, I'm there sunday night at 2330, waiting. Well maybe I exaggerate a bit but I am always early.

$4 brush
I bought a wooden handled, middle of the road cost brush for painting the gallery spindles. I had one of these but my wife found out where I keep my brushes and  borrowed it. She became amnesiac when I asked her about it.

no problem getting behind the spindles with paint
The carcass of the paper towel holder is done. The rod not being done is stopping this from being complete. I keep forgetting that is hanging waiting to be worked on. I need to get one more coat of paint on it and a couple of coats of poly after that. I forgot it again tonight and only thought of it when I saw it as I was shutting the shop lights off. Maybe tomorrow.

out of the clamps
Double, triple checking that the bottle still fits in the box.

rabbets for the lid are next
The lid is about a 1/16 strong over in the width. I made the rabbets first and then planed the width to fit.

much better results
No hump in the middle, and I'm pretty flat and straight end to end. I wasn't getting these results with the LV rabbet plane. I think the 10 1/2 being a bench plane is helping a lot here.

the exit end
I usually slope downwards on this but I am looking pretty good, It is square and close to parallel to the lay out line.

the lead in
This looks pretty good too. I am a frog hair or two higher here then the other end but I'll take this. It is square, parallel to the lay out line, not sloped outboard nor sloped down at the lead in.

planing the shoulders
I just left a hint of the pencil line on the rabbet and planed it off completely on the shoulder.

if need be
I planed both shoulders going from right to left. If need be I could have reset the iron in the plane so I planed from left to right. Can't do that with the LV rabbet plane.

thin web at the bottom of the groove
I have been thinking of this for a while and I decided to plane a shallow rabbet on the bottom of the lid. This is only about a 32nd so I should be able to do it in a couple of strokes. I am shooting for getting the width of the rabbet to be the same as the depth of the groove.

wasn't that hard to do
 The only difficult part was when the toe of the plane went past the end I still had a couple of inches of rabbet left to plane. I was able to plane the rabbet and the pencil line from end to end.

fitting the lid is batting next
This is one aspect of making boxes that I am improving on. For the most part on previous boxes, I got the lid to fit but it was a looser fit in the width or the rabbet then I liked. Here step one is to get a snug fit of the rabbet on the left side here. The ever present step 1A is never take just one more shaving without checking the fit first.

repeat for the right side
Now that the rabbets are snug, I will concentrate on getting the width.

plane two strokes off of each side and check the fit

still too wide
This is where I usually run into trouble. I would go on trying to fit the width and ignore anything else.  I went back to shave two more strokes off of each side and checked the fit again.

fits about 1/4 of the way
I looked at everything here because if I trim the wrong part, on the rabbets or the width, I could end up with a loose, floppy fitting lid. The width looks good from the end of the box and also from the interior. The rabbets on both sides are fitting tight to the top of the grooves. All the trimming of the rabbets will done on the topside. I don't want to change the shallow fit of the bottom ones.

second trial fit
I took one shaving off of each rabbet and it advanced in another 1/2". Had a ways to go yet to get lid closed but instead of rushing it I took my time and evaluated it after each shaving and fit cycle.. Looking in the grooves I can a slight gap on the left and none on the right. I kept planing the rabbets and checking the fit.

getting there
The rabbet is still tight to the top of the groove and the gap I had in the width disappeared. I took one stroke on each edge for the width and couple off of the rabbets just on the back 1/3 of the lid. I had a gap at the front on the top rabbets.

After a bit more fiddling and planing the rabbets one last time with the bullnose plane, I got the lid closed. It's snug and hard to pull open but I'll do the final tweaking of the fit after the lid astragals and thumb grab are done.

bit of blowout
I got some blowout when I planed the back of the lid to fit the back of the box. I was hoping to get all the work on the lid done tonight but it didn't happen. I glued the blowout so I'll have to wait to finish this.

four holes to plug
and one chip missing from a tail

not my best work
These dovetails are some of the loosest and gappiest I've done in a long time. But it is hard to kill dovetails and the box will do it's intended job of keeping the tequila safe while it is in transit.

Putting the blog to bed early and me too. I got my Hayward volume IV yesterday and I'm going to spend some quality time with it before I do the light leak test on the peepers.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was the original name of the game of softball before 1926?
answer - it was called kitten ball from 1895 to 1926

Ash splint wall baskets

Steve Tomlin Crafts - Wed, 03/01/2017 - 6:23am
ash splint wall baskets A new pair of ash splint wall baskets, the same yet different. Which is your favourite? Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

Williamsburg Snapshot – Building A Table Chair

The Barn on White Run - Wed, 03/01/2017 - 5:36am

Ted Boscani’s crew from the CW Joiner’s Shop (I think at one time they were known as the housewrights) were the final in-house presenters as they had a Four Ring Circus in operation making a “table chair.”  I think in some circles this piece is known as “a monk’s chair.”

While Ted was demonstrating some of the joinery from the underside of the flip-top, most particularly the cutting of the sliding dovetail into which the hinging braces would be inserted, the apprentices were all working on the same bench on the opposite side of the stage fabricating the elements that were assembled into the chair’s base.  Their congenial sharing of a bench tweaked my self-indulgence of working on, in a typical day, anywhere from 6-8 different work benches in my own space.  I admit, I suffer under an embarrassment of riches.

Finally, after 90 very engaging and entertaining minutes, the table was assembled.  While I have my doubts about the interests and abilities of most of those in attendance to fabricate any of the chairs from earlier demonstrations, I can definitely see this fitting into the ken of just about everyone there.

Context!

Tools For Working Wood - Wed, 03/01/2017 - 4:00am

This past weekend, in spite of coming down with a cold, I needed to get out of the house and went to see A Revolutionary Impulse: The Rise of the Russian Avant-Garde at MOMA. I should mention that if you are a NYC resident you can get a NYCID card which among other benefits gets you a free one year membership to MOMA. Which means in spite of being sick, I could pop in for an hour and a half, see the exhibit for free and not feel I had to spend all day because I paid a $25 admission fee (though it's free on Friday evenings).

I am a huge fan of Futurism in general so it was obvious I would want to see this exhibit before it closed. But while I was walking through the show I had a thought. Context! The exhibit consisted of pieces expressly made as "art" for gallery shows and other pieces - posters, books, and costume designs - that a century later are recognized as art and included at the show. I realized that I gravitated toward the posters, books and a dining set, my favorite piece, that I absolutely would love to have. I didn't get anything out of the pure art pieces (although a paper sculpture of a head was very cool).





What I realized is that the work intended for public consumption at the time had context. The artists and designers were trying to convey a message and they used the new vocabulary of the avant-garde to express the thought. And the works are POWERFUL. But the gallery material seems far more tentative and maybe experimental (and 15 years earlier, which might have something to do with it). They certainly doesn't hit me over the head. The context is different. The work was intended for a more limited audience that wanted to see "art" and was more forgiving and more indulgent. The message of the work is about the artist, not about some performance the artist was asked to promote in a poster.


Pondering this thought I went to test my theory.

The picture at the top of this blog is of a 1961 E-Type Jaguar, which is the centerpiece of an exhibit from the museum's collection of art from the 1960's. The car had the same impact as the avant-garde posters. First of all, the very fact the Jag was on exhibit shows us that it is now considered art. (To be fair, the car has been part of the MOMA design collection since the late 60's). It blows away everything else in the hall. While the works on the wall might define the 1960's for artists and collectors, for me at least the design vocabulary of the 60's was set by items such as this car. It influenced real world design much more than any art piece on display.


Maybe if I had to draw a conclusion, it would be that the art on the wall is commentary on what the artists saw and felt at the time, but the pieces from the outside world are what changed the world.

Just before leaving I stopped for a minute to see "Starry Night" by Vincent Van Gogh, probably one of the top five most famous pictures in the world. Many people stopped to look and take a picture of it. It didn't have to compete with any objects in the room, and it comes from a time when single paintings drew huge crowds (although not to impressionist work). My son, who is twelve and considers walking around a museum to be mind-boggingly boring, really had a hard time grasping that the picture behind the glass was the original painting and that was what was special about it. Times have changed and I think the ubiquity of electronic images make seeing the real thing less unique, less special. Seeing furniture in real life 3D on the other hand is still something the internet hasn't mastered. Although maybe with VR coming soon, maybe it will.


Modern furniture designers and makers are constantly being told that what they do is craft and not art. Woodworking certainly is craft, but as the Jag shows us, sometimes it's art. It's also pretty hard to make a piece of furniture that when people look at it they go "WOW."
But when they do: "WOW!"


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