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General Woodworking

“warts and all” workshop views

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Tue, 06/27/2017 - 5:33am

I had this foolish notion that at some point, my new workshop would be all organized and tidy. Presentable. Then I was going to photograph it and post a tour of the shop here on the blog. But…it keeps gathering junk in piles, only to be cleaned up so I could work – and make another mess. I guess that means my shop is “done” as much as it’s going to get. I did write a short piece in Popular Woodworking about it – but here is a short glimpse of what it looks like these days.

Might as well start at the beginning. here’s the view to the door:

Looking through the door, into the room. The carving over the door is a place-holder. there’s a new one coming.


The main workbench. 8′ long. shelves underneath for large planes, boxes of tools like chalkline, hammers, mallets, bench hook and other bench accessories. Racks in the window for marking gauges, awls, chisels, squares – etc.

Same view, but extended to the left – showing the neglected lathe. More later on that.

Looking back toward the door – showing my version of Chris Schwarz’ tool chest.  I couldn’t bear to paint it a solid color…small shelves wedged between the braces and corner posts. Auger bits, sharpening stuff, other odds n ends.


Here is that corner straight on – spoon knives and scratch stocks in boxes… random junk sitting on ledges til I figure it out. Could be years…

The view into the corner beyond the workbench. Cabinet for hatchets, chopping block below.

Patterns and story sticks. they’re everywhere.

I’ve taken this picture many times – it’s just beyond my workbench, the cabinet that houses the hatchets. Recycled wall paneling for the doors.


Half of a Connecticut River carved panel – couldn’t leave that stored in a box…

Inside the cabinet – hatchets, adze, twca cam in 2 sizes –

Like I said, the lathe has had little attention. The current plan is to make a set of shorter beds for it. Right now I can turn a 48″ chair post, but most of my turnings are under 32″ – so I’ll store these beds, make shorter ones, and save a bit of space. Right now, it is a place to pile stuff out of the way. Well, it’s not really out of the way. It’s just a mess. Books and notes to the left.

The old Ulmia workbench is not much better off than the lathe. There’s a shaving horse stuck behind the bedstead-in-progress. The oak desk box will go out of here soon. The baskets too. this junk-gathering place at least changes a lot, unlike the lathe.

that’s it mostly. A stove just after the Ulmia bench. A 12′ x 16′ building doesn’t require a lengthy tour…there is the loft, but I’m not going up there right now. It’s a rabbit hole…


where are the tums......

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 06/27/2017 - 12:50am
Whenever I order something that is coming from UPS, I tie myself up knots because I get so anxious waiting for it. UPS doesn't have a good track record with deliveries to my house. However, since the last screw up, they have been on the money. They don't always come at the same time nor it is always the same driver, but they have been good lately. I was concerned because there have been a rash of package deliveries being stolen in my area. It isn't only UPS, but any package delivery service. The worse one I heard was about some scumbag stealing a little girls bike. He was caught doing it on video by a neighbor but I don't know if they arrested him

UPS usually comes anywhere from 1600 to 1730 and the door bell battery is dead. I can't hear anything from upstairs when I am in the shop. I got my exercise tonight trotting my fat ass up and down the stairs every ten minutes or so checking to see if the man in brown had come. It made for a choppy night's work in the shop. Maybe I should just have the packages delivered to my wife's workplace? Just thought of that.

new pigsticker
I got this from Jim Bode and he ships via the USPS priority system. This was waiting for me in the mailbox so I don't really worry about these deliveries.

5/16"
has a secondary bevel
I am still not convinced that a secondary bevel is beneficial or needed. I have other pigstickers that don't have a secondary bevel and I can't tell a difference in using one with it or one without it.

my herd
From L to R, 1/8", 1/4", 5/16", and two 3/8" pigstickers (I thought I didn't have a 3/8 already). I am looking for a 3/16" and a 1/2" and I'll be done once they join the herd. I made my first of many trips back upstairs to check on the man in brown.

sharpened the block plane iron
Andy, who writes the Oregon Woodworker blog wrote an interesting post on sharpening yesterday. It made me think of how I sharpen my tools. I sharpen each every straight bevel tool the exact same way. I do not have any special procedures for a plane iron or a spokeshave iron. I treat them all the same.

my main stones
Coarse, medium, and fine diamond stones with a Japanese 8K polishing stone (L to R). I always start on the coarse stone and go right.


I start here first to raise a burr
I am absolutely nutso about getting a burr on the back of whatever I am sharpening now. No ifs, ands, or buts. If I can't feel a burr from this stone I drop down to the next one.

this stone is second for raising a burr
This is the coarsest diamond stone I have and it is for flattening water stones. I use it for that purpose and for raising a burr too.

the last stop for raising a burr
This is my 80 grit runway which consists of a 4x48 metal sanding belt and a 36" long marble threshold. This has not failed me in raising a burr yet. Lately, I would say about 90% of my burrs on raised on the first stone. I've had to use the other two on tools I hadn't sharpened properly before this. I think I am finally done with getting all my tools sharpened the correct way now. Subsequent outings should go as fast as sharpening this block plane iron did tonight.

I strop everything I sharpen last
I am good at this routine I use now. I don't try to shave my arm hairs or attempt to trim my nails with tools I sharpen. I used to geek out on a shiny bevel but not anymore. When done sharpening on the stones and before I strop, I check the bevel. If there is no reflected light, I strop it. If I see any reflected light I look at the bevel tip with a magnifying glass to see why. And I fix it. Raising and checking for a burr at the start ensures the fix it part doesn't happen.

poly coat #2 going on
I was getting antsy at this point and I decided that I would put the second coat of poly on the shelves and bookcase and call it a night. I wanted to be upstairs when the man brown came.

he came
Or maybe it was she came. I don't know because this was on the back stoop when I came upstairs to wait.

cheaper to get it with all the blades now
I'm undecided on the metric irons because I don't foresee needing them. Lee Valley offers a wide iron set from 7/16" to 3/4" (six irons total - in 16ths). Again this is something I don't think I would use. I got this plane to make grooves in stiles and rails and I have yet to make one larger than 3/8".

upgrade for the depth stop
This was free so I checked the box to have it sent to me. Turns out I didn't need it.

the new and improved depth stop clamp is already installed
made a stopped grove out of the box
I want to replace this
I just a read a blog entry where he said that he got a replacement handle for his LV small plow. I couldn't find it on my lunch break. The handles on LV planes is the one thing on them I don't like. Although this looks kind of a like a Stanley, I don't like it.

sweet
One groove and I am sold. And this was made with the plane right out of the box. I for one believe that I shouldn't have to fettle a tool like this (or any plane). The manufacturer should sell their tools ready to use right out of the box.

the learning curve is going to be very short
still making a tapered groove
It's not the tool but me. I didn't hit the depth stop but I know if I had, I wouldn't have this taper.

Anyways it is almost 1700 and time to shut the lights out. I will have to add a box to the A+ list for this plane to be made. I'll have to reshuffle the batting line up some to fit it in.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is opprobrium?

answer - harsh criticism or censure (came across this word reading the news today)


Special Price for Kitchen Remodel Resources

Bob Lang's ReadWatchDo - Mon, 06/26/2017 - 9:13am
Special Price on two books “The Complete Kitchen Cabinetmaker” and “SketchUp for Kitchen Design” scroll down to purchase. If you’re considering remodeling your kitchen, you’re not alone. It’s a great way to make your home more enjoyable, and a new Continue reading →
Categories: General Woodworking

Special Price for Kitchen Remodel Resources

Bob Lang's ReadWatchDo - Mon, 06/26/2017 - 9:13am
Special Price on two books “The Complete Kitchen Cabinetmaker” and “SketchUp for Kitchen Design” scroll down to purchase. If you’re considering remodeling your kitchen, you’re not alone. It’s a great way to make your home more enjoyable, and a new … Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

My second commission – part 11

Je ne sai quoi Woodworking - Mon, 06/26/2017 - 5:51am

15/3/2017

As promised we will look into the process of jointing, gluing, and inserting dovetail keys into the top of the table in part eleven of our journey.

The rest of this particular chronicle can be found here.

The Kershout boards in the picture below were prepared up to this point towards the end of last year and has since been kicking it with my 1969 MGB in a separate garage.

The first task is to arrange the boards as best as you can with regards to colour matching and balancing out defects. This is where you whip out your artistic licence. This is after all a tribute to the legendary George Nakashima.

I took the opportunity to see what the trapezoid leg would add to the overall look. The top looks very light in colour (in this picture), but I can assure you that it will be transformed to a very dark reddish brown once the finish is applied. The Kershout dovetail keys contrasts exquisitely with the lighter Witpeer boards that makes up the trapezoid leg. I also like the darker lines created by the defects on the leg. It was strategically place to balance out from an aesthetic point of view. We will see later in this post how the reverse of the mentioned timber combination has a similar effect with regards to the top.

As you can see here my bench really came into it’s own working on the edges of these boards during the jointing process. I first prepared the edges so that they were close to the desired configuration, which is a very slight bow in the length.

Then the boards are clamped together with the two edges that will mate (so to speak) flush with each other and folded much like book-matched pieces before opening the “book”. This nifty trick leads to a cancelling out of the minute error that might arise in squareness of these edges with regards to each other. This technique is sometimes referred to as match planing.

Didi gave me a few pointers.

The Kershout is so ridiculously hard that I had to resort to using an alternating attack with my Lie-Nielsen low angle Jack plane armed with a toothed blade and a Shaw’s Patent Sargent no. 14C armed with an aggressively cambered blade.

Once the artillery softened up the enemy, I moved on to this shop made jointer plane to finish off the job.

I find my Festool Domino to be a very useful tool to keep the edges flush during glue-up.

It has become my custom to do only one of these edge joints at any one time given the short window to get the job done in our dry climate. Each joint is then left in the clamps for at least 16 hours. In other words, I tend to leave the glue-up for my final task each day. It is usually done at around 17h00 and left over night until around 09h00 the next morning.

Repeat.

Ditto.

Ready for the final glue-up.

I had to buy a set of 1.3m long 1″ pipes for my pipe clamps in order to do this final glue-up. Of course, as you would expect, my 1.2 meter wide assembly table was too narrow to accommodated the clamps for this glue-up. The situation therefore necessitated some problem solving on my behalf.

As you can see here a piece of wood (for each of the bottom clamps) was cantilevered off the edge of the table held in place by a clamp through a dog hole. Oh! … and yes, in case you wondered, it is my daughter’s “Biscuit finds a friend”. My English is not advanced enough to indulge in such haute literate.

As I have mentioned before, a mere mortal tends to sweat like a Gypsy with a mortgage during our sweltering rainy season. Didi is the master of African Climate Control (aka toplessness).

… and Bob’s your Uncle.

I modified the strip of wood that links my trammel points to draw a curve to soften the appearance of both ends of the top.

Marking the location of the dominos like this helps to remember where they are when further shaping is done.

The waste was removed with an electric jigsaw. It is a crappy old Black & Decker that I bought many moons ago while still living in New Zealand. I do not use it very often to start with and do not recall ever calling upon it to munch through Kershout. As most things you do for the first time there were a few lesson to be learnt. These things (for lack of a better insult) cut on the pull stroke, which translates into a messy splitting out of fibres at the top edge. Therefore (in hind sight) it is desirable to have the bottom of the top facing the jigsaw when doing this job. Secondly, I realised that I used a blade that was too aggressive, which did not help either.

On the flip side, this indiscretion coerced me into a design tweak that might (or might not) add an interesting twist. You will have to wait and see just like me.

Another reason I chose this shape for the ends of the top, is to enhance the appearance of it being sliced from a massive tree trunk. The idea is that this shape resembles the end of a trunk that was chopped off by axe. If you imagine a board cut from a trunk like the one in the first photo below, it would probably resemble the top of my table as seen in the picture below. That is in my mind anyway, you might feel different.

Then it became time to fashion a few dovetail keys to stabilise the obvious cracks in the top.

I worked out how many is needed of each size.

Here I tried to work out where to place the keys with regards to my sense of (randomly planned) artistic balance. The picture below was not the final version that was decided on, but somewhere towards getting there.

For the design of the keys I chose an angle of 9º, which repeats all through the design of the table. This is an idea you might want to consider. You draw only one key, chopped off at different lengths, and write on the template the number of keys needed of each length. It is then cut out, traced onto the wood as many times as the key tells you and then you chop off the ends and repeat on the next sized key. This way they all have the same shape, but of different lengths in an attempt to add visual interest.

As so.

The keys were liberated from the above Witpeer board by means of a bandsaw.

19/6/2017

Another useful trick is illustrated below. Clamping a piece of scrap wood across the top to hold the dovetail key firmly in place while it’s exact configuration gets marked out on the top.

Drilling out the waste by hand in such hard wood is no joke. “Trust you me”, as they say around these parts.

Enter: Lie-Nielsen merchandise in tandem with my trusty shop made Assegaai mallet. I chose the mallet as I needed a bit more heft than what the so-called Je ne sais quoi Persuader can deliver. When working “stone”, the extra heft is a must.

The lazy winter sun give us a better idea of the warm colours of the Kershout as it infiltrates my shop during the late afternoon.

It seems as if this post is riddled with tips, so here is another one. In order to see the scribe line better, one can have a small torch lying on the top to cast a shadow into the line. On my bench this is usually accomplished by positioning the bench light in a similar fashion, but clearly this top is too big to take to the bench.

Once the key enter it’s mortise like this I stop refining the fit. The key is then clobbered home after a frugal application of Epoxy, which acts as lubricant as well as an adhesive. The clobbering is done with a heavy mallet furnished with a thick sealskin face (not pictured).

As you can see here (minus the heavy mallet).

One week later the keys were planed flush using the two planes pictured.

As you can see the Witpeer keys contrasts nicely with the Kershout, much in the same way as the opposite combination works splendidly in the trapeziod leg.

We will get into preparation of the top for finishing in our next riveting edition of this series.

Make a Traditional Rabbeted Door Frame

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 06/26/2017 - 5:45am

Today it’s easy to make glazed doors and mirror frames by using a router to rabbet a mortise-and-tenon frame after assembly: Cut your joints, glue the frame together, rout the inside edges on the back using a special rabbeting bit, then chop the corners square with a chisel and mallet. Before the invention of the electric router, frames for glazed doors (which include doors with mirrors) were built from rabbeted stock, […]

The post Make a Traditional Rabbeted Door Frame appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

met my goals.......

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 06/26/2017 - 1:44am
My wife left this morning to go to a week long meeting for genealogists in Pittsburgh at 0500.  I'll be doing the solo act until friday which means I can spend as much or as little time as I want in the shop. Today is only getting to a high of 83°F (28°C) and without the humidity that was forecasted. Before I got to the shop, I made a pit stop to do some yard work.

I do not like doing yard work. We pay to have the lawn mowed and just about any other yard related chore. My wife plants flowers and bushes and I will prune and take care of the lilac bushes. Other than this you couldn't get me do any yard work even if you put a gun to my head. Today I broke that golden rule and trimmed the brushes in the driveway.

before the haircut
Most of the high growth upwards and spilling out onto my truck is some kind of thorny bush. It doesn't flower and I have been bit numerous times with the thorns. I have to park this far over into it so I can open my door to get in/out of the truck. There is a small knee wall on the driver's side of the truck.

90 minutes later
I filled 3 shitcans with all the stuff I cut off. Cutting it off wasn't a problem but the cleanup was. Not only did my fingers ache, my forearms decided to sing harmony with them. I could barely pick up and hold my coffee cup after I got done. I took an Aleve and waited for it take effect before I went to the shop.

this is easy stuff to do
These are my two original cordless drills. The top one is a Stanley Yankee No. 41 which was made by North Bros who were owned my Stanley. The bottom one is a Millers Falls 185A. The Miller Falls I bought first and the Yankee after. I bought that one because I had lost the 5/32 bit from the Millers Falls. I couldn't find any replacement bits, so I bought the Yankee because it had all the bits. Last week I bought a 50 year old package of drill bits for Stanley drills.

Miller Falls on the left and Stanley replacement on the right
The Miller Falls is shorter than the Stanley replacement bit I got from Josh. The notches on the barrel are close to similar and the small rabbets at the top aren't the same, but they are close.

Miller Falls on the left and a bit from the Yankee
The bit from the Yankee is a closer match to the Miller Falls than the replacement ones I bought.

Miller Falls in the middle
The new Stanley replacement bit on the left and the Yankee drill bit on the right. Can't hurt to see if the replacement bit will fit.


it fits and it is secure in the chuck
drilled a hole in the side ok
The bit didn't slip or stall and it is still tight and secure in the chuck. I could feel the bit settle into the chuck - you have to turn the bit in the chuck at the bottom and you can feel it being 'keyed' in place.

ok drilling in the face
end grain not a problem neither
5/32" bit
I tried the 5/32" inch bit to make sure a larger bit wouldn't be a problem. It wasn't. Both of the replacement bits keyed and fit in the Miller Falls without any hiccups.

it fit in the holder portion of the Miller Falls drill
I was very happy when I dropped the 5/32 bit into the holder and I was able to rotate and close the cover. Garrett Wade sells not only a 'Yankee 41' style drill but bit sets also. They say that they will fit all Stanley drills. I may have to buy a set of them to have one complete set of bits as a backup.

how I lost the first bit
I'm sure that I took the bit out of the chuck and put it down on the bench rather than putting it back in the holder. I'm also sure that the bench had a lot more debris on it than what is in this pic. I cleaned the bench off and the drill bit ended up in the shitcan. Note to self: put the bits back in the magazine holder when done using them.

cleaned #2 handle and knob
I cleaned these first with Murphy's Oil Soap and then with orange cleaner. The two cleaned off a lot grime and grunge but they didn't pop. There isn't a lot of any finish on either of these two. It looks like I will be refinishing these.

damage free
Usually the tops, and especially the handle, has some damage. The only flaws on neither of these two is on the knob at the base. There is a small chip missing there. There is a white spot on the knob to right of the stud hole too. I lightly scraped that and nothing. I would think it was a spot of paint but I'm not sure now. I put these aside for now and I'll pick them back up later. Sanding these will be finger intensive and it isn't something I want to do today.

met the first goal
The humidity in the shop was hovering around 77% but I still applied the first coat of poly to the shelves and the bookcase. If I get any blushing, I doubt that I'll see it against the white of the shelves and the bookcase. Two hours after I did this I touched them and what a difference. Not even a hint of clammy and it felt bone dry. I'll put on the second coat tomorrow.

4th batter sharpened today
I could raise a burr on this iron on either end but not in the middle. I flattened the back again and started the sharpening again on my coarsest diamond stone. I got a consistent burr then across the whole edge. I went up through the stones and stropped it.

done
I had to run all three of these chisels on my 80 runway. The butt chisel still needs works because the right corner tip is chipped (dropped in on the concrete floor). I got most of it but I didn't want to spend anymore time trying to remove it. This is the chisel I keep on my bench as my grab and use chisel. I'm sure that with the next 2-3 sharpenings it'll be gone.

my new big 8K polishing stone
my old 8K polishing stone
This iron is the second widest one I have and I have about a 1/4" on either side of it. It wasn't easy sharpening this iron on the smaller 8K stone. I really had to pay attention to what I was doing when I did this iron.

side by side
This is my third time using this new 8K stone and I like it. I like the larger width and the longer length. The bigger base I can take or leave. It wasn't a factor when I was looking for a replacement.

flattened after each use
After each tool was sharpened I flattened the 8K stone. I was looking to get a feel for how long it would stay flat. I sharpened the two big bench chisels before flattening, and it was pretty flat. My old 8K I would flatten whenever I thought it needed it. It is much harder than this new 8K. I think it is too early to tell, but I don't think I will have to flatten after every single tool I sharpen.

finally done
This is the first time since I got these chisels that all 3 are sharp and ready to use. I tested all three by shaving the miters on the beaded frames. What a eureka moment this was. Sharp does cure and fix a lot of things. This is the level of sharpness I will need to maintain whenever I use the miter template jig I made.

block plane iron
I looks like a serrated edge. I used to flush a few painted surfaces and I should have used the block plane that Matt gave to me.

had to use the 80 grit runway
My coarsest diamond stone wasn't touching these chips. About 3 minutes of up and down on the runway and they were gone. As soon as I felt heat on my fingertips, I would dip the iron in the water. I know it wasn't hot enough to lose it's temper but I didn't want to take any chances.


couldn't squeeze it in
My fingers were begging me to stop here. This is my number #2 plane. I reach first for the 4 1/2 and this one second. Not having it to grab will hasten it getting sharpened. I will try to do it after work tomorrow. This is where I shut the lights off and went upstairs.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Alexander Bain?
answer - a scottish clockmaker who invented the 'fax' machine in 1843

June 21, 2017

NCW Woodworking Guild - Sun, 06/25/2017 - 8:24pm

If you missed the June meeting, you missed a lot: a drive into the mountains and seeing more walnut slabs than you’ll see in a lifetime. Guild member Steve Noyes has the vision to look at a tree and know what forms it can take. After our visit to Steve’s place, we left with an understanding of what is involved in obtaining trees, processing them, converting them into usable lumber and, finally, turning that lumber into beautiful furniture.

Steve sees the potential of a log like thisWalnut log to be milled

becoming this

the Clockum Desk

The Clockum Desk, named after the original location of the  tree

Steve “harvests” trees before they meet the fate of the chipper, often scouting them out in and around the valley. When he spots one he knows will not be long in this life, he waits – sometime years – for that moment when a new home owner or a contractor decides it needs to go. During our meeting, we learned about Steve’s process in a reverse order: first, seeing his shop, then learning how he designs and makes furniture, and finally the process of harvesting and processing the wood.

The Wow Factor

The first thing evident to anyone walking into Steve’s 2,206 sq. ft. shop is that he loves wood, especially walnut. Seeing the lumber and slabs he’s processed is stunning to those accustomed to lumberyard fare.

bar1

Taking up almost two-stories of wall space, this slab will likely become a bar counter.

IMG_3038

And there’s more …

IMG_2967

IMG_2983

IMG_2985

IMG_5372

 

and more …

IMG_2991

IMG_3039

lumber8

lumber10

lumber10_2

lumber11

Tools of the trade

12-inch jointer with spiral cutter head

Spiral-head jointer

IMG_2981

A sander wide enough to handle massive slabs

 

IMG_2992

Dust collection system

IMG_2993

dust collection

Spray room

Spray room

Inside the kiln

Inside the kiln (yes, he has a kiln!)

 

From logs to luxury

Whether it’s making desks, counter tops, or chairs, Steve considers all aspects of a piece of wood – the curve of an edge, the nuance of the grain, the color – and seeks to blend those characteristics into an eye-pleasing piece of handmade furniture. While at his shop, we studied the first two of the following forms:

IMG_2973

Bar stool, Maloof-inspired rocker, chair

While everybody else was talking slabs, Chris Church and Jeff Dilks were scrutinizing the Maloof joints in the rocker.

IMG_3014.JPG

IMG_3019

IMG_3020

Maloof joint

Using an unfinished rocker, Steve explained how he created and shaped the joint.

IMG_3042

IMG_3041IMG_3046.JPG

IMG_3047.JPG

IMG_3050

IMG_3049

Graceful touches on a finished rocker:

IMG_3054.JPG

IMG_3022.JPG

The headrest made out of a beautifully grained piece of walnut root:

IMG_3058.JPG

And we tried one out:

IMG_3025

IMG_3024

IMG_3026.JPG

Steve’s tractor-seat bar stool

IMG_2997

And a new version he is working on:

IMG_3032

Bent laminations

bent laminations

Acquisition and milling

Before darkness settled in, we went outside, and Steve showed us his two mills – the Lucas Mill and the Brand X. We talked about how he acquires trees and the process and expenses involved in taking a tree from its place of origin to a completed piece of furniture.

Brand X

Brand X

Lucas mill

Lucas mill

All in all, a great meeting. Thank you, Steve, for hosting us.

 

Ripple Finale

The Barn on White Run - Sun, 06/25/2017 - 6:29pm

Our last two days of Ripplemania 1 were spent in trying to fine tune the older machine into a real working tool, and tinkering with the design for the new one into a working device.

While John and Travis and I were fiddling with the new machine, Sharon was trying out the new cutter on the old machine.  She was able to raise a huge pile of shavings, but the wear between the pattern rail and the follower bar (the rod protruding from the cutter head in order to allow the latter to rise up and down, cutting the ripple pattern in the work piece) was getting too bad to bring about a satisfactory result.

Meanwhile we were trying to perfect the carriage and cutter head for the new machine.  In the end we got to within an eyelash of getting a ripple molding to completion, but we definitely had “proof of concept.”

John and Travis fabricated a carriage that was compatible with ripple patterns (up and down), wave patterns (sideways motion), and even a simultaneous ripple/wave action.

In order to test the carriage and cutterhead, we had to have a pattern to work with, so I dove into that undertaking.  I was rethinking the need for a metal pattern rail in favor of a wooden one, so I began by assembling a long rail sandwich consisting of southern yellow pine on its length as the outer laminae to serve as the backing for the pattern and bearing surface, with end grain black cherry as the contact surface.

With the pattern rail sandwich assembled it was time to cut the ripple chatter pattern into the rail.  Using half round rasps, floats, and carving gouges we were able to create several feet of pattern on the blank sandwich.

I ripped the sandwich on the table saw, resulting in a matched pair  to install on either side of the box to induce the pattern on the workpiece via the undulating cutter head.  (I will certainly give it a try to have a CNC machine create any new pattern rails).

With the pattern installed, we gave it a try.  It sure looked like it was working, but still we had some hurdles to jump in order to make it a reliable high-function machine.  Cranking it by hand was interminably slow even though the movement at the point of cutting was fine.  We decided to motorize the device to take it to the next level so we attached a motor to a stool and hung a belt around the motor shaft and the pulley we made for the drive screw on the machine.  The motion was certainly accelerated without any obvious loss of performance, although there was the issue of an unprotected motor and belt drive.

Travis demanded a protective cowl for the drive unit, so he installed one.  We found this to be much safer.

Like I said earlier, in the end we came within an eyelash (or a half day) of getting the new machine to operate with efficacy.  Given my continued and growing interest in the capacity to produce ripple moldings for clients I will certainly expend more energy to make it happen.

Moe Follansbee knew what’s what

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Sun, 06/25/2017 - 1:54pm

Over two months ago, I lost my everyday knife. I looked everywhere and came up empty. I decided it either broke off the strap, and fell, or got dropped into a bag of shavings & went the way of all things. I have lots of slojd knives – so I could keep carving spoons without any discomfort. But usually I like wearing one for everyday use. I finally gave up looking, and ordered some new blades.   I tried to be positive about it, thinking maybe someone found what would become a really good knife for them.

everyday sloydbefore it was lost

I had the blade since about 1992, it was on its 2nd handle. (I split the first one using the knife like a little froe). When I replaced the handle, I made the sheath. That was about 12 years ago. A friend at the museum made the leather work. Once the new blades arrived, I made a new knife and sheath. It was OK, but not the same.  This one, I tried my hand at the leather, but for one thing my model was gone! Here I am boring out the blank for the handle, to fit the knife’s tang.

Paring the new handle.

here is the end result, works fine. But doesn’t feel right one way or another. The leather I used was too thick for one thing, so it didn’t conform quite as well as I wished. Handle is the only piece of boxwood I had. Why did I try that?

Here’s the knife out of the sheath. It works, I was carving spoons yesterday with it. Clicks into the sheath like it’s supposed to do. I was thinking I’d do it over at some point, but things are getting busy around here right about now. 

Today I was sorting & cleaning inside & out. In the shop, it came time to climb up & hang this year’s Greenwood Fest poster. I’m not a huge poster fan, but Greenwood Fest is a pretty special affair for me, so up it went. Right above last year’s version. While I was there, I grabbed that basket for the tools & materials in it. I made some basket rims & handles from the hickory I wrote about last time, and this week I’ll install them. Needed the clips and other bits in there.

 

And don’t you know – in the basket was my old knife. Made a good day a great one.

It’s always the last place you look, my father used to say.


made a new tool.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 06/25/2017 - 2:54am
I am not someone who revels in making their own tools. I would much rather buy a tool I need but sometimes you don't have that choice. Especially so when you are in the middle of building something and you are dead in the water because of a lack of a specific tool. I came close to that today but in my case I made a tool to replace a manufactured one. It wasn't planned and it was driven strictly by not liking how the manufactured one was working.

there was a bench underneath all the crappola
It took me about 6 minutes to clear off the sharpening bench. I needed access to the stones so I could sharpen the 2" chisel I need to chisel the miters on the bookcase frame. Most of the crap on here ended up on the nearest horizontal surface which happened to be the tablesaw.

trying out my 8000 grit Japanese stone
A couple of spritzs of water to use the nagura stone to make a slurry. On my last 8K japanese stone I didn't use the nagura stone. I didn't have any problems with not using it and I may start it here too. I'll use it until I get used to the stone and get a feel for it's character.

flattened it
The chisel did not feel like it was flat on the stone. Looking at the bevel, I could see there was hollow spot so I stopped and flattened the stone. I assumed it was flat but after a few strokes, I could see it wasn't.

looks ok
This new stone is a bit softer than my old one. It will take a while to get used to it. I'm also not sure about the shine on the bevel. I haven't sharpened and honed this chisel much so I don't have much history to remember on it. I do like the extra width of the stone a lot. The new stone is almost 3/4" wider than the old one.

chisel is ready but this isn't
The template is shifting as I tighten the vise with the template rolling inboard. This is aggravating because it will effect the face of the miter and possibly cause gaps.

appears to be square
There isn't a lot of meat to register against the square but it lined up square end to end. The template isn't the cause of the rolling.

it was the small rabbets
I made these so they were half lapped so to speak with the miter template. A few shavings off of each and there is no more contact with the template on the ends of this filler.

fixed
No more rolling inboard and the gap is gone at the top between the template and the filler.

chiseling away at 45°
pretty good
Not perfect, but acceptable for a painted joint.

I trimmed this miter with the template
I didn't have to trim this because I already did it on the shooting board. I wanted to try out the template on this part of the frame too. I ended up trimming it back too much. The toe of the miter extends past the quirk. The miter toe on this one has to end at the quirk to mate and line up with the other miter.

now it is where it should be
a little better fitting
now that is a gap
I lost a bit over an 1/8" playing with both of the miters. The goal with this practice was to first get the miters to fit. Secondly, was the flat and I hope I'm not going to shoot myself in the foot and saying I'm good on that part.

right side is gappy
This is where I found out I was displeased with the manufactured template. Even with the 2" chisel it was not easy maintaining registration on the templates two edges.

thin edges
Try as I might I couldn't get any feedback that I was flat on these two edges. Even when I pushed down on the chisel at the bevel, I still had some uncertainties.

chewed up a little
These I could feel and they were a minor distraction. There wasn't a smooth, fluid motion with the chisel as I swept it across these two edges.

new miter template stock
My first choice was 1/2 maple but that would have required secured two pieces somehow to each other at 90°. I didn't want to wait for that to set up. Choice #2 was european beech but it wasn't thick enough at only 7/8" thick. The rabbet I wanted to make in it would make it too thin for the 3/4" frame stock thickness. The winner was a big chunk of ash. It is over 1 1/4" thick and the rabbet in it will be able to cover the 3/4" frame.

rift sawn at this end
This will up the stability of the template but even if it wasn't, I feel comfortable using this wood. I have had it hanging out in the shop for a couple of years. Hopefully it won't do any stupid wood tricks when I finish making it.

got my 45 laid out
I chiseled my saw wall on the face and I concentrated on sawing directly down on this corner.

I've got a good feeling about this
Just by looking at this I can see that the plumb looks goods but I'm not sure of the 45°. I did have the saw wall and I didn't deviate from that.

the opposite face that was down
Just a little bit of the knife line still visible here. On the rest of it I can barely make it out.

pretty good on the top too
I am feeling like I should pat myself on the back. This is the absolute best miter I have ever done to date. Nothing else even comes close and I still have to check it with a combo square.

wow
This is damn good for me. Wow again. I feel almost like Paul Sellers and his nonchalant sawing of miters. This is the face that was down and although it isn't making 100% contact, this is still impressing me a lot.

the other face
It doesn't get any better than this. This face side is almost perfect. For the Jackie Gleason fans, "....how sweet it is......".

the first step
The opposite side of the face I sawed was a bit high and the sawn face wasn't square to the side. A couple of swipes and all was well in Disneyland.

one teeny hump in the middle to remove
The hump was done with the chisel. It took 3 dance steps but I finally got rid of it.

problem with the new miter template
The space between the bead and the template is going to bite me on the buttocks.

it's rolling outboard
I knew this was too good to be true. This template is too small for the stock. If the outside leg extended down more, this might not be happening. Time to see if I can repeat this in a larger size.

sawing the 45 first
 On the first one I sawed out the blank and then sawed the miter. It was a bit difficult sawing it out due to it's small size. On this one I am sawing the 45 first and then I'll saw out the blank.

two strokes and I was through
And no, I didn't leave any saw marks on the workbench.

squared the sides to the face
I didn't check the 45 yet because I wanted to saw out the rabbet first. That would leave me with less meat to make into a 45°. When I did check it, I was off 45 by a couple of degrees. I think I did that when I planed the face square. It took me a lot of time and fussing to get this angle to 45°. I would plane and check, plane and check. Swear, curse, and threaten it with bodily harm and plane and check it some more. After leaving this twice and coming back to it, I finally got the miter to equal 45°. Personally, I think it was the threat of flying lessons that sealed the deal.

no rolling and no gaps
much better
This is a 23 bazillion percent improvement over the metal miter template. The two registration edges on my homemade template are much broader and larger. All that extra real estate translates into a steadier chisel and a warm and fuzzy having rock steady faces to swing the chisel on.

one small and one big
I ended up with a right and left hand miter template and I didn't plan it that way. I would rather both being the same but I can see the advantage of having both. These weren't that hard to make and if the need comes up, I can easily make another one. I have a lot of the ash hanging out in the shop.

my stash of good brushes
This is where I keep my brushes and all of them are labeled as to what they are used for. Most of them are for latex with one for oil paint and another for oil based poly. I wanted a brush for water based poly but I didn't have one. I am sure I had one but my wife knows of this stash and I'm sure she wouldn't check what it was labeled. Not that I'm saying she took it.

roll back brushes from Wally World
I always try to buy the best brush I can. If you clean them and take care of them, they will last forever. Most of the brushes in my stash are 15-20 years old and I still have the 4" brush I last used to help my father paint a house with. These were the best that Wally World had and they were on sale. I would rather have a 2 1/2" brush but the 3" will do. 2 1/2" brushes fit in quart cans and 3" brushes are better suited for gallon cans.

labeled
I had wanted to get the poly on the bookcase and the shelves today but it didn't happen. I painted the shelves, again. This time it was to paint over the layout lines for the shelf pin sockets. It is a definite, as firm as unset Jello, that I will get one coat of poly on it tomorrow.

almost done
I still have chisels that I thought I had sharpened and honed but hadn't. I started to sharpen this one and the right side of the bevel has a hollow. The smallest one in the box has a flat on the end of the bevel. It is shiny and bright and looks sharp but it probably would not cut wet cardboard. Something I that will definitely maybe pick back up tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is duende?
answer - the power to attract through personal magnetism and charm

a different miter practice.....

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 06/24/2017 - 1:25am
Today was hot and humid. Both of these happening together make me a miserable SOB to be around if I'm not in an AC space. As I am typing up this blog post, the skies are turning gray because there is supposed to be a line of thunder boomers rolling through. And those are forecasted to last into tomorrow morning. After the wet stuff leaves, the H&H is coming back. Sunday is going to be toasty with a predicted temp of 90°F+ (32°C+)along with high humidity.

I do have some good news. Amazon shot an email to me saying I'll be getting my camera on July 3rd. They haven't taken the money yet so I'm not sure that they haven't gotten them yet neither. I am having it delivered to my wife's work place. There is always someone there to sign for it. And if they won't sign for it, they can call my wife to come do it.  This way I don't have to worry about someone stealing it if it is left on the stoop.

prepping some practice stock
Miters aren't in my top ten joints I like to do. I am slowly getting better doing them and I have a special miter to practice here. This one is mitering a beaded frame so the bead runs continuously around the bookcase. I need to square and straighten out the stock first.

two long pieces of practice stock
These two pieces are the same width as the frame parts I am using on the bookcase.

slight rabbet on the side
Matt from the tiny workshop blog here recently did an awesome job of documenting rehabbing a beading plane. After reading that I knew what was causing this tiny rabbet here.

the iron needs work
I thought I had the iron profile set pretty good and matching the bed profile. According to Matt the rabbet is caused by the left side of the iron being proud of the bed. It should fade away into the bed profile and not be proud of it. I'll be fixing this and copying Matt step by step when I do. For now I'll just sand this little bit off.

what are the odds?
I didn't bother to make square lines on the practice parts I sawed out. I just made a tic mark for the length and sawed them out. All four saw cuts are plumb and square. If I had made square lines to saw on I probably would have gotten toast.

the 3 practice pieces
I want to practice making  both the right and left side joints on the frame. The left one is easy to do as it naturally allows me to use the dominant right hand. On the right I'll have to rely mostly on my left hand.

quick outing on the shooting board
Since the ends were sawn square, all I had to do here was shoot the edges clean and smooth.

back up practice stock for just in case
marking the miters on the side frame
My last time doing this I tried to mark the miter on the front beaded side. That didn't work too good and I couldn't tell where the toe of the miter was because of the molded edge. I am running the miter from the back onto the front bottom.

marking gauge line
This is all I need on the top. The marking gauge line is the top or heel of the miter and I'll use it to set the chisel into it to set the miter template before I chop the miter.

miter laid out on the face
I need to have some idea of where the miter face will run so that when I saw this face I don't saw to deep. I will be sawing the waste from both sides. On the back the miter face is easy to see because there isn't a bead and a quirk in the way. I will be sawing in the quirk and I can see where the miter face is, I don't need to know where it is on the beaded portion.

the vise action is still working
the top one is easy to do
I rough cut the miters just before the back wall of the quirk. I will plane to that on the shooting board.

one easy and one not so easy
This one was done 1-2-3. The other one took a bit of fussing to do. I would shoot and check and kept at that until the toe of the miter hit the back wall of the quirk.

second marking gauge line
I ran the second line to the middle-ish of the quirk. The saw will remove the bulk of the waste and once I have the miter chiseled, I will square up and level it down to the quirk bottom.

most of the waste is sawn off
I need to spend some calories on the sharpening stones
I was going to stop here and pick this up tomorrow but I couldn't wait.

I should have waited
Ugly looking miter even if you look at it with one eye closed and the other one half open.

this miter is dead nuts 45°
The other one is less than 45°.

why this miter is toast
I knew that I shouldn't have used this 1 inch chisel because I already found out it was too small. Like an idiot, I thought I could use it because I knew it's shortcoming. That knowledge obviously didn't help. Look at the right bottom corner of the chisel. It is off the edge of the miter template and digging into the miter making it less than 45. The chisel needs to be on both the top and side edges at all times. The one inch chisel is too narrow to do that.

this is must
If the chisel isn't on both edges of the template, it is no longer being cut at 45°.

got the flat done good

flush at the top
Both heels on the miters are correct in that they are dead nuts on the marking gauge line. The heels govern the flush at the top. I think I am ready to do these miters now that I know being impatient will bite me on the ass. I will still do the practice joints before I commit to the real thing.


I won these
I saw these on Josh's tool site (Hyperkitten tools) and I didn't get them The next day they were still there which surprised me. I thought that Josh would be writing emails forever explaining that they were already sold to unlucky ones asking for them. This time I bought them. Josh said that these are from the 1960's based on no UPC barcode being on the package. I have a Stanley pump drill that takes these but I bought them to see if they will fit my North Bros. drill. I lost the 5/32" bit for it. The 5/32 bit is the size to drill holes for knobs and handles. I'll check it out tomorrow if I don't forget I have them.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How are seedless oranges propagated?
answer - by grafting because the original seedless orange was a mutant

Book Giveaway: Making Wooden Toys

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 06/23/2017 - 9:00am
Wooden Toys

It’s time for another book giveaway! This week I’m giving away a book on making wooden toys: “Making Classic Wooden Toys: 21 Step-by-Step Projects.” Who hasn’t at some point been inspired by a kindly yet mischievous woodworker who gave them a mysterious wooden puzzle and challenged them to figure it out? These days I have my suspicions whether some of the “puzzles” my own grandfather handed me actually could be solved […]

The post Book Giveaway: Making Wooden Toys appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

A Coffee Tragedy: Turning a Lid

Highland Woodworking - Fri, 06/23/2017 - 7:00am

This article first appeared in the December 2013 issue of The Highland Woodturner.

There was an accident involving a ceramic coffee container, which was a gift from my in-laws. More specifically, I accidentally dropped and shattered the lid of the container. After pondering this tragic accident, I realized I could turn a replacement lid.

CLICK HERE to read Curtis’s lid-turning process

CLICK HERE to take a look at the Highland Woodturner Archives

The post A Coffee Tragedy: Turning a Lid appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Ray Iles iron follow up.......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 06/23/2017 - 12:52am
I got asked a few questions about the Ray Iles replacement Iron I got for my Stanley 5 1/2. I briefly went over it in yesterday's blog and today I'll try to address what I was asked and what I think I should add.

First off I would buy another of these in a heart beat even though I only have one days worth of experience with them. I've got other replacement Stanley irons, one from Hock and another from tools from Japan. The Hock is an excellent iron. Good steel, takes and holds a good edge, but it is thicker than the original Stanley as is the one from Japan. The Japanese one I haven't tried yet but I expect it to rival the Hock iron.

Let me get this out before I go any further. I am not a plane iron expert nor an expert in metallurgy. This is just my opinion on a subject, right, wrong, or indifferent. For well over one hundred years Stanley made plane irons thin. I have yet to read anything saying that thin irons are prone to chattering. It is my belief that thin irons are/were more difficult to make from what I have read on the process of making them. The thinness while hardening them could cause  them to warp. Stanley must have found a way to control it because they made boatload after boatload of these irons. Thicker irons don't have the warping tendencies that thinner iron do.

And this is my big opinion on why thicker irons came into use. It was because they were easier to manufacture. Now that they were saving money in the manufacturing costs they had to justify why they were selling thicker irons. This is where the marketing gurus came up with the thicker irons don't chatter BS.

I will always go with thin because of my opinion on thick vs thin,. The couple of times I recall (a bazillion moons ago when I was belly button high to a 7 foot cigar store indian) getting chatter was because I had the iron set too deep. It wasn't because it was thin. It was operator error.


Ray Iles spare iron for the 5 1/2
If I can not find original Stanley irons I'll get a Ray Iles. I have at least two irons for all my planes and some I have 3 of. The 5 1/2 iron is a hard one to find OEM or in the wild. I found one for $80 but I didn't buy it and I'm glad I didn't.

it isn't square
I tried to set the chipbreaker flush with the sides of the iron and noticed the end wasn't square to the iron. It is a wee bit OTL (out to lunch). It is low on the right and rising slightly up on the left.


see the out of square
The chipbreaker is flush with the sides of the iron.  With the two of them flush and square to each other it makes setting the iron parallel to the mouth much easier. I also strive to have the lateral adjust centered on the iron. If these two are off, the lateral adjust will off to one side or the other from center. That limits your range of adjustment.

the Ray Iles on the left and the Stanley on the right
 You can see a difference in the irons but it is closer than other replacement irons.

The Ray Iles iron is 0.099 inches thick - 2.49mm thick
The Stanley iron is 0.0735 inches thick - 1.89mm thick
The difference between them is 0.0255 inches - 0.6 mm. I did all the measurements just behind the bevel on both irons.

I have to road test it now
I have not done anything with the iron other than to look at with a goofy face. This is what is happening in real time with the iron right out of the package. I did not move the frog back neither. I left it where it was from the other iron setup. The mouth closed up a bit but not much. As we'll see it didn't effect passing shavings up and out through the mouth.

starting to get shavings
a little too thick
This is one continuous shaving from end to end. Thicker than I like but the two passes gave the same shavings.

from thick to wispy
I adjusted the iron and got some see through shavings. This isn't to bad considering how rough the bevel on this iron looks. I would use this on a project to plane with. I didn't feel any appreciable differences in planing between the two irons.

thin stock in the vise
Someone asked me why I used the planing stop. For thin width stock up to around 3-4" I like to use the planing stop. It is flat and level because the stock is laying on the bench top. In the vise, sometimes, the stock is too thin for the vise to grab it. Most of the time I don't get it level in the vise with the far end usually being pitched downwards. Another thing I don't have a warm and fuzzy about is it is so close to the top of the bench and the vise.

I prefer the fractional calipers
Frank doesn't have any fractional calipers and asked me to use this to measure in inches and mm.

checking to see if it is laminated
The color and texture of the iron is uniform from toe to heel. No lines or separations between the bevel end and the bottom of the slot neither.

same thing on both sides
front side of the iron is the same as the back
After looking over the iron I would say that it isn't laminated. I would think that I would have seen some color difference or demarcation between the two metals if they were there.

might as well see how flat the back is
ten strokes
This is pretty flat. Not as good as I have seen with a Lee Valley iron, but pretty darn good. It shouldn't take more then another ten minutes or so to get this flat. I didn't do that tonight.

these feel better today
The cool, clammy feeling I felt yesterday is 99% gone. Maybe tomorrow I'll be able to sand these and put on the poly.  I'll do that if I can sand this without getting a gummy eraser like residue. I really want to be done with this bookcase. I have a dutch toolchest to make for Myles.

cellar dehumidifier
This works ok until the the humidity gets up above the high 80s into the 90s range. After that it struggles to keep up. Tonight the humidity in the shop is 68% and it feels dry now. Sunday is supposed to be very hot and very humid. I wonder if that is giving me the clammy feeling on the bookcase?

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who is David Adkins?
answer - it is the birth name of the comedian Sinbad

3D Carving the BARN Workbench Vises

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 06/22/2017 - 9:27am

A workbench designed for hand tool woodworkers but made (partially) with a CNC. Each bench features a unique 3D carved leg vise. Here’s a video introduction into how they were made. The BARN workbench was designed for the Bainbridge Island Artisan Resource Network. BARN is a Seattle area community group that built a wonderful community facility for artisans to share resources, education, and workspace. To give them a hand, I […]

The post 3D Carving the BARN Workbench Vises appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Shaving Horse & Drawknife Basics

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 06/22/2017 - 8:30am

Traditional chairmaking starts with a shaving horse and a drawknife. Used with both green and dried wood, woodworkers have relied on these two tools for centuries. Simple to use, there are just a few things to be aware of before getting to work. In this short video, Windsor chairmaker Elia Bizzarri gives a valuable overview of what features are important when choosing a shaving horse and talks about proper grip, […]

The post Shaving Horse & Drawknife Basics appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Board member David Heim talks about the American Association of Woodturners – 360w360 E.237

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 06/22/2017 - 4:10am
Board member David Heim talks about the American Association of Woodturners – 360w360 E.237

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking, American Association of Woodturners (AAW) board member David Heim shares the benefits of membership to AAW, discusses an upcoming AAW event, which is held in Kansas City on June 23 – 25 in 2017, and explains what his responsibilities are as a member of the board.

Join 360 Woodworking every Thursday for a lively discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more).

Continue reading Board member David Heim talks about the American Association of Woodturners – 360w360 E.237 at 360 WoodWorking.

Ray Iles came......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 06/22/2017 - 1:09am
My international order came today from Ray Iles. I got it a lot faster than I was expecting it. I wonder if the Brit exit from EU will up the shipping times not to mention will there be any added hassles when it happens.  I got this in the mail and I ordered another thing.

I had posted a query on the Saw Mill Creek site about plow planes. I have the Record 405 (Stanley 45 equivalent) and it has 26 irons. I have only used 3 grooving irons so far. I like it and I don't like it. I am a single purpose use tool type guy and don't mind that. The 405 does a lot of things and is a multipurpose tool. It can be finicky and pain to set sometimes but it does work once those frustrations are dealt with.

I wanted to get some feed back on guys that have used a 405 or 45 and also used the Lee Valley small plane or other plow planes. And as an added bonus, also had used a wooden plow plane. I am letting the 405 go to greener pastures shortly. After reading through the comments, it became clear to me that small LV plow was a favorite. Didn't get any comments on wooden plow planes.

I had seen and fondled the Lie-Nielsen plow plane at the Second Hand Tool gathering in Amana a few years ago. It was a damn good looking plane. Lots of mass with a great presence in the hands. I haven't heard anything more about it since then. I'll probably be dead before it hits the street so I pulled the trigger on the Lee Valley small plow plane. I looked at the Lee Valley big plow plane coming soon but I like the simpler, uncluttered look of the smaller plow plane.

Ken Hatch left a comment saying I wouldn't regret the LV plane. He uses it and he also has experience with a Stanley 45 and 46. I respect his opinion and I pretty much had my mind made up after reading it. I would like to have the LN version but I'm not waiting. I should have the LV maybe by monday. After I get it I will offer my 405 for sale first on the blog and then elsewhere.

the PITA
The interior of the bookcase feels clammy. It is dry to the touch and there isn't any paint getting on my fingertips but it doesn't feel dry. The exterior feels dry, it is rough to the touch and not clammy feeling anywhere. I am going to let this set here for a few days and check what it is like then. Right now it is just pissing me off. I tried sanding it and it was like using an eraser. I was getting a gummy like residue instead of a fine powder.


the shelves are clammy feeling too
 The shelves can hang out with bookcase and dry out some more too. I decided to not chop sockets for the pins. The frame will keep the shelves in place and it's one less thing I have to do.

cleared customs ok
iron for a 5 1/2 and a Preston spokeshave
it's about 2 1/4" wide
almost as thin as the Stanley
The pic I shot of measuring the Stanley iron didn't come out. The Stanley measures a frog hair less than 5/64. That makes the Ray Iles iron a little than a 64th thicker than the Stanley. I'm liking this a lot because I don't buy the thicker irons reduce chatter crap at all.

ground at 25°
don't like this
I do not like hollow ground irons and that is what this is. I will sharpen it and let it stay this way and let subsequent sharpenings remove it.

old Preston iron on the left and new replacement Ray Iles iron on the right
The left one is giving me an illusion that it is bigger than the new Ray Iles but it isn't. They are pretty much the same with a couple of frog hair differences in the length of the slot.


the slot sides and top cutout line up (new on top of the old)

The slot on the Ray Iles is bit longer and the concave slot at the top lines up perfectly with the old iron underneath.

it's too wide for the Preston chamfering spokeshave
I knew this was too big but this is the actual proof is in the pudding.

new spokeshave iron on the left and Preston chamfer iron on the right

the two slot long sides line up
The older iron is about a 8th inch longer, top to bottom. The important thing is the top slots are exactly the same dimensions and line up perfectly.

replacement chamfer iron?
The tall slots aren't the same length but I don't think that would present any problems. The top slot is where the adjuster knob raises and lowers the iron that is the same. Maybe I can find someone to mill the Ray Iles spokeshave iron sides down to match the width of the older iron. If not I will try to do it with some cutoff wheels in my dremel.

just a few spots on the front to touch up

small detail brush
This worked perfectly getting the area around the lateral adjust.

done
The front of frog will be covered so I'm only putting one coat on it. Tomorrow if this feels ok to the touch, I'll sand the face on a flat surface to remove the black paint on it.

For Mike Hamilton: I'm an idiot because I removed your comment when I thought I was publishing it. My apologies for that mind fart.  If I remember you asked if I was going to bake the frog? This is oil based black enamel paint and I won't be baking it. On the flip side of the coin, can you bake this to make it more durable? Now I have a bug in my ear to silence.

Who was Gary Knox Bennett?
answer - he invented the roach clip (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mFaot87a7CM)

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