I ended up doing rehab work for most of the day. I hadn't planned on that, it just happened. My hands weren't hurting too bad and all the finger work I was doing wasn't bothering me. So I went with the flow and did what I could because I never know when they will start singing arias. I also changed the rehab schedule. I was going to do the #7 and #8 after I got done with the two I have in the queue now. I switched that to the 10 1/2 and the #3 being next. Why? I use them more than I use the #7 and #8.
|what is the white line?|
I am not getting any jamming under the chipbreaker but I still want to know what that white line is. Is it a gap between the chipbreaker and the iron? I flattened the back of the iron and I stoned the back edge of the chipbreaker. So two flats should equal zero light, right?
|back of the chipbreaker|
The edge is shiny and consistent in width side to side. The white line I see I thought was light being reflected off of this but it isn't. I shined a light at the front I can see that for about half of the width. I have a gap but I still am not getting jamming? Why?
|I can close it|
With almost no finger pressure on the chipbreaker, I can close the gap. When I do that and shine the flashlight on the front, I see no light under the chipbreaker and no white line.
|the third part|
The lever cap is providing the final bit of pressure on the chipbreaker to close the gap. I checked 5 of my spares and all five of them have a gap I can see when the flashlight is shined on the front. I do not have a problem with any of these jamming or getting shavings under the chipbreaker. Some of them have questionable flattened iron backs but all have a good stoned edge on the chipbreaker (similar to the one above). So the lever cap must be what is closing it when I use them.
|5 1/2 tote|
Scraped and sanded up to 320 grit. This will turn dark once the shellac goes on. I like this lighter unfinished look because I can see the grain. The shellac tends to hide that.
|scraped the knob|
The finish on this wasn't shellac and I'm guessing it was lacquer.
|the grain runs up/down|
Most of the ways I have seen this done is via the dill press. I have done them in the drill press too but I don't do that anymore. Sanding them in drill press means your are sanding across the grain. I opted to scrape and sand the knob with the grain.
|scraped and sanded up to 320|
The whole operation on the knob took less than 10 minutes to do. Both of these are ready for shellac. I will brush on the first two coats and then I will spray on 3-4 more after that.
|problem area on the 5 1/2|
This area doesn't have any japanning and it is incredibly difficult to clean and sand to bare metal in this area.
|part of my Harbor Freight road trip|
I got these to scrape all the areas I can't sand and get my fat fingers in.
|got a buffer on sale for $45|
I had a $20 off coupon and I got the upgraded warranty on this. In the first 90 days if this goes south they will give me a new one. After that she said they will fix it which means they will give me another one then too.
|replenished my brushes|
These were all on sale and I needed them. I go through at least one steel and one brass brush on each plane I rehab. The brass ones especially don't last too long.
|filed the edge until I rolled a burr|
I was able to scrape the rust away down to bare metal. The burr didn't' last too long but it worked. I had to make a fresh burr a few times to complete these two spots.
According to the writing on the tube this stuff cleans, shines, removes rust, and protects a lot of different kinds of metal. I don't think it shines all that much and I'm going to find out if I'm right or wrong. This is the before pic.
|it definitely cleaned this|
You apply this with a rag and then wipe and buff it right away.
|I don't see a difference|
I think for this to shine it would have to be a 'wow' moment to get my attention. It didn't say wow but I do know that this stuff protects. I had used Autosol on this about 4-5 months ago and it still looks good.
|LN #4 1/2|
I have never used Autosol on this before and it has some rust blooms on this side at the toe.
|a few dabs of Autosol|
It doesn't take a lot and this is probably too much.
It didn't completely remove the rust blooms but it did it justice and got 95% of it. I give it a C+ on the shine and an A on cleaning. This is good stuff and worth having in the shop to put on your tools.
|I don't see much of a shine raised|
|buffer set up|
I'll try this out on the 5 1/2 rehab with the lever cap first.
|first application of stripper |
|what I use to clean the stripper off the plane|
I have 3 of these and I can count on one hand and still have fingers free, the number of times I've worn any of them. On the last rehab I got the dust from the sanding in my pants and it stunk worse than a pair of gym socks forgotten in a locker for ten years. I'll try to remember to wear this and keep my street clothes clean. At least when I'm rehabbing tools.
|tried the scraper on the plane|
The scraper worked pretty well with getting the remaining japanning off. I had 4 sizes to pick and choose from.
|2nd and 3rd applications|
The stripper doesn't stick and work well on vertical parts of the plane. I stripped this side first and then did the other one. The two other vertical spots are the cross brace in front of the mouth and the back of the frog seat. Extra work but I don't have a sandblaster to help out.
|sanded with 80 grit paper and cleaned with acetone before the primer gets sprayed on - |
|extra screws/studs to cover the holes|
I had to stuff a bit of paper towel in the frog adjust screw hole because I don't have an extra one of those.
|for the frog seat|
I have used this before with good results. I coated the frog seat and the two bare areas at the bottom by the mouth.
| I fixed the 044|
The first 044 with the new fence on it didn't work. It will plow a groove but not with the fence up against the edge. I could keep the back heel of the fence there but the toe wandered off to the left away from the edge. Nothing I tried changed that. I then ran 3 grooves with the new 044 without any hiccups.
|removed the grooves from test run #1 for a second run|
|ran 4 more grooves|
I did the first one starting at the left and working back. I did the next 3 by starting at the right and going to the left. No problems with plowing the grooves. No problem keeping the fence tight against the edge. Much joy and rejoicing in Mudville with dancing in the streets.
|I did have one problem|
The depth shoe slipped on me.
|the last groove|
I plowed it so deep it met the bottom of the other groove and planed this piece right off.
|I'm happy with this|
The grooves are parallel to the edge from the toe to the heel. The second plow plane is working as expected.
|first one on the left, the replacement on the right|
I wish this was the opposite of what I'm keeping. The first 044 has better nickel plating then the right one. I think the problem with the first 044 is definitely the front hole wasn't drilled 90° to the body. . The rods on the 2nd 044 are both square to the body once I tighten the screws on the rod.
The first 044 is stowed away on top of the finishing cabinet. I will use the rods from it with the new 044. The 2nd 044 has two different sized diameter fence rods whereas on the first 044 the two are the same. I will use the plane as it is and hold off on getting replacement rods. I am leaning in the direction now that the rods are designed this way. Maybe it was done this way because of manufacturing practices at that time.
|both planes have the same Record design number|
On the heel of the skate is a Record design number but the iron clamps are different. Everything else on the two plows are the same except for this and what follows.
|why it slipped |
The rods on the depth shoes are different diameters. I would expect these having the same design number that they would be identical. Maybe this is why it slipped but it also could have slipped because I didn't tighten down the screw enough.
|cleaned, degreased, and rinsed |
I will give these small parts an EvapoRust bath. I stopped at Home Depot to get some Rem oil but I couldn't find it. The Plane Collector uses that on his small parts and he said he gets it from HD. I asked the tool guy there and he said he never heard of the stuff. I'll stick with my oil regimen for now.
I just noticed this about the lever cap for locking the iron. See it?
|just the rounded end is nickel plated|
It is looking like I'll have a couple of tools rehabbed this upcoming week. The 5 1/2 will be ready for paint tomorrow and the Record 044 should be ready too. I just have to rinse the small parts, buff the ones I can, and put it together. The 4 1/2 should go as quick as the 5 1/2 is but we'll see.
Did you know in the original story of Cinderella, her slippers were made of fur and not glass? (It was a translation error from the story's original french to english)