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Hand Tools

Issue Four T.O.C. – Examination of an English Walnut Kneehole Desk

The Mortise & Tenon Magazine Blog - Wed, 01/24/2018 - 2:25pm

Every weekday until the February 1st opening of Issue Four pre-orders, we will be announcing one article from the table of contents here on the blog. If you have yet to sign up for a yearly subscription, you can do so here.

Every issue we are committed to providing a thorough close-up insider view into a piece of pre-industrial furniture. These photo essays focus on showing tool marks and construction evidence because we believe seeing typical hand tool surfaces is one the most valuable ways we can learn about period craftsmanship.

We’re excited to share this English walnut kneehole desk with you readers in Issue Four because it is so unbelievably rife with the artisan’s fingerprints. While it has an elegant face, the interior reveals that this piece was made with practicality at foremost importance. Did you ever hear anyone say that English cabinetwork was more refined than American work? While there may be truth in that statement, this piece disagrees. But don’t take my word for it… look for yourself.


You can reserve your copy of Issue Four here.


Categories: Hand Tools

Barn Workshop – Historic Finishing

The Barn on White Run - Wed, 01/24/2018 - 5:13am

April 26-28 Historic Finishing – My own long-time favorite, we will spend three days reflecting on, and enacting, my “Six Rules For Perfect Finishing” in the historic tradition of spirit and wax coatings.  Each participant may bring a small finishing project with them, but I have found that invitation to have erratic responses so the workshop will focus on creating numerous sample boards to keep in your personal collections.  Tuition $375.


The complete 2018 Barn workshop schedule:

Historic Finishing  April 26-28, $375

Making A Petite Dovetail Saw June 8-10, $400

Boullework Marquetry  July 13-15, $375

Knotwork Banding Inlay  August 10-12, $375

Build A Classic Workbench  September 3-7, $950


If any of these interest you, contact me here.

"I think it is incumbent on all human beings to oppose injustice in every form."

Giant Cypress - Wed, 01/24/2018 - 5:08am
“I think it is incumbent on all human beings to oppose injustice in every form.”


Hugh Masekela, 1939-2018

Yellow Glue & its Weird Superpowers

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Wed, 01/24/2018 - 4:31am

A friend in Utah needed a new kitchen and interviewed some cabinetmakers to do the job. My friend wanted dovetailed drawers, but one cabinetmaker said he had “something better.” What could be better? “It’s glue and super-high clamp pressure,” the cabinetmaker said. If you apply enough pressure, he said, the joint will be so strong that the wood will fail before the glue. So no joinery. Just glue and clamp […]

The post Yellow Glue & its Weird Superpowers appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

(time flies) 2nd posting......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 01/24/2018 - 12:30am
I made a pit stop on the way home to get some soup. Shaws has it on sale for 99 cents a can down from the regular price of $3.49. The catch is there is a limit of 4 cans so I've been stopping every night and picking up 4. Did that tonight and still got to the shop before 1600. Before I knew it Mickey's big hand was almost on 12 with the little one on 5. I felt like I just got there and I didn't think I got anything accomplished.

#6 is almost done
I sanded the paint off of the frog seat.

sanded the paint around the mouth off
I could put the #6 back together as it is now and call it done. This plane is used for flattening stock so it won't get a lot of regular use. But I want to avoid having a different look with my planes. Regardless of their usage or function, I want them all to at least look the same. This will be getting the sanding treatment up to 600 grit before I put it back together.

time to get some more sanding blocks ready
I left this clamped since saturday and I made up what I needed to sand the the #6 and the #4. I glued them and they will be ready to use tomorrow.

cleaned the #4 with Acetone
I had already cleaned this plane 3 times with degreaser and I couldn't believe how dirty the rag got with the acetone. I had lightly steel wooled the plane and the letters and numbers came out light again. I don't know if you can paint over japanning but I'm going to find out.

All the screws etc for the #4 are cleaned, oiled, and ready to go. What's left is the lever cap, the brass adjuster knob, and tote/knob shellacing. I'll work on that while the paint dries on the plane.

doesn't even look like I had painted it
There isn't any bare metal showing but the steel wool knocked back a lot of the paint that was there. You can see the lettering on the heel is decidedly lighter then the areas around it.

white rouge
 According to my research the white rouge has some cutting action and will remove scratches. It didn't remove the ones I have on the lever cap. It also didn't wow me with the shine level.

better than the brown stuff
It does seem to be a little shinier than what I got with the brown rouge. I think I might get the Harbor Freight buffer for $45.

this sucks
Holding the drill on and using my other hand to buff the lever cap was doable but awkward. I would rather buff with two hands holding the lever cap. The HF buffer is 1/2 HP and has two wheels that turn at 3400RPM. I don't think the drill develops sufficient speed to buff adequately.

#4 lever sanded lightly with 320 grit
Given a choice between patina or shine and I will opt for the shine. Using a sanding block is hands down the way to sand this. I have done all the previous ones by hand but no more. I'll be using a sanding block from now on.

#4 brass adjuster knob - before
partial after pic
I cleaned the knob with degreaser and a wire brush and I got a pretty decent shine with it.

sanded the  inside of the knob
This knob looks damn good and I still have to use Bar Keeps Best Friend on it yet. The only hold up on getting the #4 done is paint drying and getting some shellac on the knob and tote.

Sorry abut the blog being published as I wrote it. I hadn't finished writing it yet and noticed that it had been put on line already. I don't know how much of it got published but I reverted it back to a draft so I could complete it. I changed the title and published it on it's intended day, the 24th.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Naomi Parker Fraley was the original model for Rosie the Riveter? (she passed on saturday at age 96)

The rest of the Greenwood Fest lineup for 2018

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Tue, 01/23/2018 - 6:23pm

I’m back from New York and off to Williamsburg. I’ll be at their Woodworking conference through Sunday, then back home here Monday or Tuesday. Then Pret & Paula get back from their jaunt just in time for tickets to Greenwood Fest to go on sale February 2nd, 10 AM eastern time.  https://www.greenwoodfest.org/

You can read what we have so far on that site. Earlier I mentioned we’re having 2 new instructors this time – Curtis Buchanan https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/2017/12/27/greenwood-fest-instructor-curtis-buchanan/ and Robin Wood https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/2017/12/21/greenwood-fest-2018-instructor-robin-wood/ The rest of the lineup are regulars, or now-regulars for Greenwood Fest.

The Spoon Carving Triumvirate.

JoJo Wood – I’d hate to think of this program without JoJo. https://www.instagram.com/jojowoodcraft/


Barn the Spoon – a great addition last year and we’re thrilled to have him back again. https://www.instagram.com/barnthespoon/

And last but not least – Jane Mickelborough. https://www.instagram.com/janespoons/ Her folding spoons (and fan birds) were a huge hit. She’ll be doing some of both this time.


Then, Dave Fisher. There is no link to Dave Fisher. I’m not saying anything else.

Dave Fisher on a bowl horse

Darrick Sanderson is a huge hit. https://www.instagram.com/dcsandersoninc/ Hewn or turned bowls, spoons like crazy, non-stop carving/cutting/slicing.



The whirwind-around-the-world slöjd man Jögge Sundqvist.  https://www.instagram.com/surolle/ Where is he? Japan, Australia, Sweden, Minnesota – well, in June he’ll be in Pinewoods with us. Here he is doing his Jimi Hendrix thing. 

Jogge_behind his back653.jpg


Not only do we have the now-old man of Windsor chairs, Curtis, but once again we have Pete Galbert coming back this year. Great chairs, great book, great teacher. https://www.instagram.com/petergalbert/


We just spent a weekend with Tim Manney making all edges sharp. Chair making, tool making, sharpening – Tim covers a lot of ground. https://www.instagram.com/tim.manney/

I’ll do a separate post about Pen Austin next week – she does amazing work with finishes, surfaces, etc. Often working with lime plaster, at the Fest she’s going to show us about using milk paint like you’ve never seen before. Even this crowd that is milk-paint savvy. Pen was there the day we launched Plymouth CRAFT but it’s taken until now for us to get her into our orbit – she’s very much in demand for restoration work. Here is a photo of some of her faux painting on columns for a Shakespeare Company’s stage.

pen & marbled paint


I’ll probably do an oak carving session during the Fest, and hopefully Paula will do another cooking w/fire class…we’ll figure those details out during February.

Tools for Asgers sloyd class

Mulesaw - Tue, 01/23/2018 - 5:07pm
I talked to Asger on the phone today, and he told me enthusiastic that he had had his first lessons in sloyd.
He told me that they had to choose between 3 different projects which was OK, but what he didn't think was OK was the tools that were available to them.

It is not that Asger is a tool snob who can only use a Lie Nielsen plane or a Two Lawyers backsaw etc.
But he expects that a chisel is sharp, a plane is sharp and a saw should surprisingly also be sharp in his opinion.
He was really frustrated discovering that the tools were all dull.

I know that the budget for classes such as sloyd is so limited that it is hard to do anything. The allowance per student doesn't really leave room for investment in any new tools.
And the teachers are only given a bare minimum of hours for preparation, and those are not nearly enough to cover a sharpening of all the chisels or planes etc.
It annoys me, because I know that most schools will still spend an enormous amount of money each year on IT equipment such as new computers or printers etc. And no one expect a computer to hold up for as long as a chisel in matter of years.

I told Asger that if he wanted to, I would be happy to find some tools that he could bring with him to use in the sloyd class. A couple of chisels, a small plane and a saw that actually is sharp.
He wasn't sure about it, but he thought that he would ask the teacher if she was OK with it.

He was worried that the other kids might suddenly become aware of how crappy the tools of the school were, if they suddenly tried a sharp chisel, and then they would perhaps prefer to borrow his tools instead.
A sad thing about crappy tools in such a place is that it might cause some of the kids to become disappointed with woodworking, because the result in no way resembles the effort put into the project by them.
If they try really hard, but are held back due to dull tools, the final result might not be as fine as they would have liked it to be, and that could potentially keep them from thinking that woodworking or any other handmade activity is fun.

I would hate if the teacher felt that sending tools with Asger was a critique of her job, because that is not my intention.

I know that in regular class each kid is expected to bring his/her own tools like pencils and rulers etc. And in physical education it is the same, each kid brings their own clothes and shoes etc.
But could it be viewed upon as being the same for sloyd? and how about needlework or home economics etc.?

So what do you think, would it be OK to bring your own tools to school, or is it a bad idea?

Categories: Hand Tools

New year, new planes, new shows

The Black Dog's Woodshop - Tue, 01/23/2018 - 2:47pm

For the first two and a half years of business, I've concentrated on the core of of the three essential bench planes--the jack plane, the try plane, and the coffin smoother. This year, I'm starting to expand my offerings. The first of these is the rabbet plane, pictured above.

My rabbet planes are bedded at 50° and can be ordered either square or skewed. A nominal 1" iron is standard, but if you are looking for a different width, just ask. These planes have custom irons that are 5/32" thick--a bit thicker than what most other makers offer. They have a very solid feel in the cut.

I'm also adding a new bench plane, which I call the Mini-Smoother.

I jokingly refer to this plane as the cure for the common block plane, because I built the first version of this plane about four years ago, and I haven't used my block plane since. The design has been honed a couple times, and I think it's just about perfect now. The plane is comfortable to use with one hand or two. It has a 1-1/4" double iron and is 5-1/4" long.

This is just the beginning. In the near future, I plan to roll out a number of new planes. Moving fillisters will be next, followed by dado planes, and then we'll see what's next. Toothing planes? Miter planes? Stay tuned.

I'll be doing a couple Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Events this spring. This weekend, January 26-27, I'll be at the Chicago School of Woodworking. In March, I'll be at Urban Specialty Woods in Huntington, NY. If you're in the neighborhood, stop by, say hi, and try some wooden planes!

Finally, a reminder: If you'd like to see more regular photos from my planemaking biz, check out my Instagram feed.
Categories: Hand Tools

Issue Four T.O.C. – “The Artisan’s Guide to Pre-industrial Table Construction”

The Mortise & Tenon Magazine Blog - Tue, 01/23/2018 - 9:49am

Every weekday until the February 1st opening of Issue Four pre-orders, we will be announcing one article from the table of contents here on the blog. If you have yet to sign up for a yearly subscription, you can do so here.

It has become clear to me that the greatest inefficiency in our furniture making has nothing to do with the machines vs. hand tools discussion and everything to do with ill-considered workflow. Because this has proved to be such a valuable insight to my own shop practice, I decided to tackle this topic head on in Issue Four. In this article, I expand on the “Tables” video by breaking table construction down into a logical, systematic order.

Consider this a pocket guide intended to give readers a holistic view of making tables using only hand tools. The backbone of this piece is showing how essential reference faces are to work efficiently. I cover rough stock prep, drawbore mortise-and-tenon joinery, tapering legs, assembly, table tops, breadboard ends, and leveling the feet.

You don’t have time to piddle and neither do I. When our daily responsibilities are done and we retreat to our workshops to put in another hour on that end table, we want to make the most of our time. I hope this article proves to be an inspiration, making your shop time more efficient and therefore more enjoyable. 

- Joshua Klein 

You can reserve your copy of Issue Four here.


Categories: Hand Tools

Bench Trials for ‘Ingenious Mechanicks’

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Tue, 01/23/2018 - 4:24am

Will Myers takes a turn with M. Hulot’s “belly” – an incredibly simple and effective way to shave components.

Every book I write has a guiding principle. Something I mutter during the research, building, writing and editing. (For example, “Disobey me” from “The Anarchist’s Tool Chest.”)

For “Ingenious Mechanicks: Early Workbenches & Workholding,” my mantra wasn’t as catchy. But I love it all the same.

“The principle is that you must not fool yourself, and you are the easiest person to fool.”
—    Prof. Richard Feynman (1918-1988), winner of the Nobel Prize in Physics in 1965

When you write a book, it’s like constructing a little world. And what you include, leave out or emphasize can change its message, even if you are want to do something as straightforward as building old benches and figuring out how they work.

So for my last couple books, I subjected myself to peer review. For “Ingenious Mechanicks,” I invited a bunch of woodworkers of all stripes – modern, traditional, all hand-tool, powered-to-the-max, beginners, experts – and showed them what I found. Then I gave them free reign to use the benches. I watched and wrote down what they said.

(Even better, photographer Narayan Nayar took dozens of gorgeous photos to illustrate the book. The photo at the top of this entry is one of his unprocessed jpegs.)

The participants had a lot to say, and the review process eased my mind. These benches and early workholding devices work brilliantly (with a few exceptions). And, most importantly, their comments didn’t send me back down a rabbit hole for more research.

The book is nearly done. The text of “Ingenious Mechanicks” is now being edited by Megan Fitzpatrick. I have to draw a few maps to illustrate Suzanne Ellison’s chapter. Then I can begin designing the book’s pages.

Whew. Buttocks unclenched.

— Christopher Schwarz, editor, Lost Art Press
Personal site: christophermschwarz.com

Categories: Hand Tools

rolling cabinet pt ?..........

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 01/23/2018 - 12:25am
When I made my plane reservations sunday I was surprised by the available flights. There were only a few direct flights to Covington.  But all of them left too early in the morning for me  and got in way too early in Ky so I picked a two stop flight. This is what I don't understand. On the way there I stop first in Washington DC and then a connecting flight to KY. On the way home I fly to Chicago and then home to Providence. It seems to me that this is a bit wacky and inefficient. My wife flies 4-5 times a year and she says it has been this way since forever.

$20 with S/H
I bought these to take to my woodworking class. Brendon says to bring a new metal file and some shaping ones. These are basically needle files with wooden handles. For the price I couldn't pass them up. And if I forget them there or lose them, it will be no big loss.

rouge colors
I looked up rouge colors on my lunch break and this is what I found. On all of the sites the colors and what they do were pretty consistent. I came away from this a bit confused on what to use on the lever cap. I am not sure what kind of metal it is made of and the brown rouge didn't shine it much. I am going to try my green honing rouge on the lever cap tomorrow.

no groans, whimpers, or relaxing when the clamps came off
one nail blew through on this side
and one on this side
The nail didn't come through as much here as the other side. That is the crap shoot with nailing plywood. You never know how the nail will hit a ply and where it will go.

pulled them both out
It is impossible to use a nail set and punch the nail out. I will glue the blowout back in place later.

got it set on the rolling base
I got a good fit on the back and the sides. The front is a 1/2" shy which is what I wanted. I did that because I thought I would need that to access the locking casters.

casters are off
I will have to swap two of the casters to get the both locking casters at the front.

screwed it to the dolly
I have two screws in the dolly temporarily holding the cabinet in place.

it rolls around nicely empty
loaded up
I am debating whether or not to put a sliding tray on the bottom. If I put in side mount drawer slides I lose 2 inches in the width. If I put in bottom mount slides I lose one inch in the height. As it is here, I can easily fit everything I want here.

about 6" of clearance.
I think a 6 inch deep drawer would be deep enough but I want to err on the side of bigger is better.

moved the boxes around and gained an inch
The Lee Valley box with the rebate plane will be redone to reduce it's footprint.

I think this will work but I'm not sure how I'm going to like kneeling down to get toolboxes out of this space. I may have to take the Stanley 45 box (at the back right corner) out and keep that somewhere else. Doing that will reduce the overall height and I can probably get away with a pull out tray.

two more sanding blocks
I will use these 3 sanding blocks as my bench sanders. The cork didn't cut cleanly due to me not using a fresh razor blade.

2nd coat
There were two big holidays on the back inside of the side walls. I may have to paint those areas again. I'll have to check that tomorrow and decide if I have to put on coat #3. It is looking like I might have the #4 done tomorrow and maybe this #6 too.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a clew is a ball of yarn or thread?

Looks Like a Lot of Work.

The Furniture Record - Mon, 01/22/2018 - 10:34pm

Then there was this piece from local auction:

Georgian Mahogany Collector’s Cabinet on Stand


This lot has sold for $430. Shame about the later stand.

Description: Early 19th century, pine and poplar secondary, one part form, applied cove molded cornice with dentil molding, hinged panel doors, opening to reveal (20) graduated drawers, on a later custom Chippendale style base.

Size: 54.5 x 35.5 x 20 in.

Condition: Later stand; refinished; lacking operable key.

If one opens the doors on a collectors chest, what does one see?


Drawers. Twenty graduated drawers.

And if one looks more closely at the drawers, what does one see?


Dovetails. Twenty graduated drawers with dovetails.

If one looks even more closely at the carcass, what does one see?


I’m not really sure.

The second drawer position from the top (ninth from the bottom)  has extra dados. Was there an option for shallower drawers or trays?

The other thing I noticed was the drawers bottoms being nailed on and extending beyond the drawer sides becoming a the drawer runners. Not a common arrangement but not rare either. I’ve seen six to eight cabinets with this style drawer although it seems more common in primitive pieces.

Another fascination of mine, as regular readers know, is the back of furniture.  Many furniture makers just nailed on whatever they had lying around the shop. Any wood will do..


This one is no exception but better than many.

I really like the mover’s inventory stickers left on. Much of our furniture still proudly wears theirs.




Corpulence 2, Gragg 0

The Barn on White Run - Mon, 01/22/2018 - 4:21pm

One of my long-time interests has been the iconic “Elastic Chair” of Boston chair maker Samuel Gragg, who produced these sinuous featherweight painted chairs for a few short years somewhere in the window of 1805-1815.  Having made a few myself I can see why he switched to technically simpler chairs, but I remain smitten by the form.

At one of the woodworking events in the past I had my Gragg chair there with me on display, and at some point I was absent from its presence and someone sat in the chair who shouldn’t have.  The first hand accounts ex poste indicate that the offender was so corpulent (first hand accounts would suggest said person was well north of four bills) that he could not get out of the chair as his flesh has drooped over the seat rails and filled the void of the arms and even below the arms.  He was wedged in tight as could be.  In the desperate struggle to get out of the chair where he was not supposed to be, the occupant apparently put his forearms on the chair arms with the all the force he could  muster  on the arms of the chair to pry himself out of it.  He was evidently successful in that his bloated dead carcass was not in the chair afterward, but in extricating himself he managed to fracture both arms.  Of the chair.   He fled the scene with nary a word of acknowledgment nor apology.

After contemplating a solution for the time since and seeing a bit of clear sky in my upcoming schedule (and to get warmed up to build two elastic chairs that I’ve been commissioned to make, but more about that later) I have now decided to undertake the repair.  Even though it is something I made myself, thus disposable, I will endeavor to follow the same decision framework I’ve used for for four decades on museum and client artifacts, just to make it interesting.  It will be a great learning experience for me.

Stay tuned.

Issue Four T.O.C. – Will Lisak’s “Carpentry Without Borders: An Exploration of Traditional Timber Framing in Romania”

The Mortise & Tenon Magazine Blog - Mon, 01/22/2018 - 1:18pm


Every weekday until the February 1st opening of Issue Four pre-orders, we will be announcing one article from the table of contents here on the blog. If you have yet to sign up for a yearly subscription, you can do so here.

Last fall, I was fortunate to spend some time with Charpentiers Sans Frontières in Romania, hand hewing a roof system from local ash and oak. I found that there are some corners of this nation where one can still experience a cultural landscape mostly unaltered from what much of Europe must have looked like for centuries.  Hillsides patchworked with subsistence farming, folks scythe-mowing hay in the high pastures, the knell of the woodcutter’s axe in the woods, the sounds of horses and working animals. I can’t imagine a richer setting to explore the intricacies of scribed and hewn joinery, and I am excited to share this story in Issue Four.

There is something captivating to so many woodworkers about the primary processing of materials with the old tools: taking up the froe, drawknife, fore plane, or hewing hatchet. Many and various are the roots of this fascination - it can come from a preservation or conservation perspective, or from social or environmental ideology. Sometimes it grows from a focus on cultural heritage, and sometimes from an interest in techniques - the development and use of materials and tools. As often as not it's simply a primal connection, a love for the feel of expending human energy.  Many of us just want to richly experience the visceral textures found in the building of our environment, a practice so basic to human culture for millennia. No matter where these inclinations arise, the call is hard to resist.

Will Lisak

You can reserve your copy of Issue Four here.


Categories: Hand Tools

Back together again.

Owyhee Mountain Fiddle Shop - Mon, 01/22/2018 - 12:31pm
From my post last December, Learning from the Humble:

Now back together, and back in the Middle School orchestra room:

I glued the pieces, those that made sense to look after, back together.  Bushed the C and A pegholes, installed internal crossgrain cleats in the pegbox across the C and A peghole locations.  Added a chunk of curly maple on the treble side, where it was missing and badly splintered.  I didn't spend too much time with color-matching, it was a functional school repair that I probably underbid -- but, as in my previous post, the back and ribs were nicely done.  Worth saving, I thought.

I did add some clear varnish to the bare wood on the body, lots of bare real-estate on that body.  But now that, too, is protected a bit from normal use. 

This viola should serve for several more years, barring too rough of use.  Or dropping.  Can't warranty against dropping.

Categories: Hand Tools, Luthiery

Trestle Table Classes for 2018

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Mon, 01/22/2018 - 11:00am


I will be teaching two new classes this year building a trestle table at Little Miami Handworks in Bellbrooke Ohio

The table we will be building is one that I came up with using design elements from several  vintage tables. One cool thing about this design is that the table breaks down for storage or transport (more about that here).


We will build the tables from locally sourced white pine and oak. The length and width of the table will be somewhat variable at around 6′ in length and 32″ to 34″ in width. It is a five-day class, the cost is $750 plus a $200 material fee. The sign-up page for the class can be found here.

— Will Myers

Categories: Hand Tools

Drill Bits For Hand Drills

The English Woodworker - Mon, 01/22/2018 - 8:35am
Drill Bits For Hand Drills

I’m always whinging about something.
So the thing this blog is good for is that someone always has an answer.
And it shuts me straight up.

When I was moaning about drill bits in the marking knife post, we got plenty of suggestions for bits that you find overcome my problem.

You weren’t wrong.

We got together all the drill bits that we could from your input, and I put them to the test.

Continue reading at The English Woodworker.

Categories: Hand Tools

Shawn Graham does a great job explaining how to set up a...

Giant Cypress - Mon, 01/22/2018 - 7:28am

Shawn Graham does a great job explaining how to set up a chipbreaker, and is nice enough to give a shout out to yours truly. 

It’s for a western plane, but great information, nonetheless. And be sure to check out Shawn’s YouTube channel.

More stuff about chipbreakers here and here.

The Last of the Fancy Lads

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Mon, 01/22/2018 - 3:57am


My daughter Maddy reports that she has fewer than 100 sets of stickers remaining, including the much maligned very popular “Fancy Lad Academy” sticker.

Once these stickers are gone, they are gone. We haven’t repeated any designs.

These are quality, 100-percent vinyl stickers from Stickermule.com harvested from completely organic vines. There are two ways to order a set: You can visit Maddy’s etsy store here. They are $6 delivered ($10 for international orders).

For customers in the United States, you can send a $5 bill and a SASE (self-addressed stamped envelope) to:

Stick it to the Man
P.O. Box 3284
Columbus, OH 43210

Obligatory disclaimer: This is not a money-making venture for me or Lost Art Press.

— Christopher Schwarz

P.S. For those of you who send Maddy stickers or photos in your SASEs, she loves them and even bought several large canvases to display them in her apartment.

Categories: Hand Tools

Woodworking class........

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 01/22/2018 - 12:37am
I would like to take a woodworking course every weekend of the year. That is not going to happen but I can still dream. The problem with taking classes in another state is the ancillary costs. I can afford just about any 2-3 course being offered anywhere. The problem is the costs for travel, lodging, rental car, and filling the pie hole. In my case these costs are 3 times the class price.

I'm taking a class in Covington Ky in June. I paid for the class and I just got done making hotel, flight, and car rental reservations.  If I hadn't already paid for this class I would be taking a different one. Issac Blackburn is teaching a saw filing class the same weekend I'm going to be in Covington. Oh well, maybe I'll catch him next year.

ready for paint
I cleaned the interior with degreaser and it's ready for paint. Once it is painted I will finish the sanding of the sole and cheek walls. I still have to go through 400 and 600 grits.

the #4 frog
I cleaned the frog of all the grunge that was on it and lightly sanded it. The frog came out of that with a lot of paint loss on both side walls.

the back of the frog
Most of  the bare spots came when I cleaned it. I sanded it lightly and removed a bit more. I'll have to paint this to cover all the bare metal.

for the plane interior
I'm leaving the japanning as it is on this plane. The wax is to give it some shine and it's a cleaner and wax in one to boot.

leftover cork
I bought this to make a cork board for my wife that she doesn't use. I plan on using this to make some sanding blocks. I did some searching on line for sanding blocks and there are a lot of them to look at. I think I'll come up with another design to add to the soup.

my marble threshold
I am thinking of changing how I secure the sanding belts to the marble. I normally do it this way. At the front I hold it with the dog.

at the back I hold it with a clamp
I do it this way because I have 6 belts to put on and take off and only one piece of marble.  Steve left a comment about this being less than ideal due to the sandpaper rolling as I sand. That tends to sand a slight bevel at the toe and heel.

I'll glue the 80 grit down
This is where the sanding blocks come in. 95% of the sanding during my plane rehabs comes with the 80 grit. The rest of the grits I use are basically just doing scratch removal. The 80 grit removes the most and flattens the sole. So the plan is to glue the 80 grit to the marble and make sanding blocks for the other grits and do them by hand.

#4 frog painted
the inside
I had to clean the inside again. I missed some grudge in the corners behind the frog. I used a wire brush there and on the numbers. I removed the japanning on the tops of them.

not white anymore
I used the brush with almost no paint on it and it did a good job of covering the tops of the lettering and numbers.

had same problem on the toe
painted a few spots on both cheek walls
I painted the cross brace in front of the mouth too. It had paint loss on the top of it side to side. The plan is once this is dry to steel wool the plane and try and blend in what I painted with the japanning. After that I will apply the wax and see what I end up with .

4x4 will give up 3 sanding blocks
I flattened two reference faces and I am going to try and get 3 of them out this.

one down and two to go
I cut this out on the bandsaw and did it so that the sanding block is quarter sawn. I'm hoping that will help the sanding block to stay flat and straight.

bandsaw cuts are all tapered
planed to a parallel thickness - just the Doug Fir blocks
This will get me going and I'll be able to assess how well it will work. I have to attach my method of securing the sandpaper which will be a piece of channel iron and a bolt and nut. I still haven't decided whether or not to use cork on all of the sanding blocks. I think what I'll do is make one with cork and I'll glue the sandpaper to a second one. Then I can compare the two side by side.

gluing the cork
I don't know how well this adhesive will work on this. These 3 blocks here are maple of no set size. I didn't gauge these by how many pieces of sandpaper I could get out of each sheet. Instead I cut out the blocks based on how they felt in my hands.

not glued
The cork has a curl to it after being stowed this way for a couple of years. I clamped up the cork with the sanding blocks to see if I can flatten it a bit. I'll leave this until tomorrow and check it then.

gluing up the cabinet after lunch
23 year old compressor
I bought this when I got out of the Navy in 1995. It's still going strong after all these years. I thought that I would use this every day but that never happened. I was still in my power tool usage period then and Norm was still doing the NYW every sunday. He used a compressor so I thought I would use it too.

nailing the top and bottom
I don't want any nails to show on the sides so I am relying on clamps there. The top and bottom will not be seen in the finished cabinet so I am nailing them. I used hide glue and I will leave this in the clamps until tomorrow.

it's staying here too
A friend of my said that this was overkill using plywood for the top and bottom. Normally I would have used 1/4" for the bottom and two 1x3s for the top. One at the front and one at the rear. But since this is a frameless cabinet I used 1/2" plywood for the top and bottom for strength and to stiffen the cabinet.

tried a sanding block
This is the way I'll use the maple sanding blocks. I tried it on the sole and sides of the #5 and it worked ok. I don't think there will be any problems sanding planes or wood with this.

tried my buffing wheel
The kit has 3 different sized wheels and this is the middle sized one. It comes with 3 colored rouge sticks and says that it will shine a variety of metals. Read the instructions and I couldn't find anything stating what color rouge to use for what metal. All it says is to only use one colored rouge on each wheel. Or maybe it doesn't matter and each stick has a different abrasion/grit?

It made the lever cap a little more shinier but not by much. I must of missed something as to what rouge is used for what. I'll have to go back and look at everything that came with it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the Hartford Courant is the oldest continually published newspaper in the US?


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