Hand Tool Headlines
The Woodworking Blogs Aggregator
It’s quite a lovely plane really. Compact and lightweight, feisty in the hand and then dead gutsy. That’s howI feel about all of the #3s really. I love plucking them from my tools from time to time and seeing them flip, turn and twist to task so willingly and immediately in my hands as I […]
I'm adding to my whining above a lack of sleep. I don't know why but I woke up this morning a few tics after double balls (midnight - 0000) and I could not get back to sleep. After tossing and flopping like fish out of water, I finally got up at 0300. I remember having a dream before I woke where I was using my "A" plumb bob thing to build a log cabin and my shoes started to unravel at the seams. That is when I woke up. Maybe I'll finish the dream tonight and find out why my shoes unraveled.
|new strops cut out|
|big square came in|
|17" on the outside|
|15" on the inside|
|happy face on - it's square on the inside|
|square on the outside|
|ear to ear smile now|
|square on the outside|
|I like the size and capability of this square|
|It won't fit in the bottom|
|fits in the big till|
|lots of room|
|cleaning up "A"|
|legs are still off|
|measured, marked, and sawed off the longer leg again|
|still a 1/4" off|
|I think I'm chasing tail|
|doesn't look like the middle|
|rough handle has had a chance to set up|
|I don't like it|
|I'm going knob and handle free|
|planed the twist out|
|I planed out the hump|
What is phobophobia?
answer - a fear of phobias
I had one more piece of the slab I used to make the dining room table, the only one with no knots and I was determined to get to the bottom of this issue. I began by using the power hand plane to get the rough surface down to within about 1/16" of flat. I didn't use a scrub plane because the last time I tried it tore out something fierce, 1/8" in places.
What I tried first was taking a sharp #3 set to take very shallow cuts. I used it across and on both diagonals to the grain and it worked really well:
I also gingerly tried it with the grain but it started to tearout, so I stopped. I was still puzzled about why this has been so difficult. I have flattened my bench, which is cvg fir, with minimal tearout and successfully made other things out of fir.
I decided to do some research and essentially found what I have read previously except in a more extreme form. Several experts recommend setting the chipbreaker absolutely as close to the edge as you can possibly get it when planing difficult wood, literally a few thousandths. The reasoning is precisely that it breaks the chips before they can tearout, producing accordion like shavings and only a slightly rougher surface. Neither put emphasis on a tight mouth. One suggested a bevel-up plane with a blade sharpened at a very steep angle as an alternative, something I have. The blade becomes its own chipbreaker. Being risk averse, I decided to give both of these a try with the grain on the bottom of the slab. In both cases, I sharpened the blades carefully before beginning.
As you can see from this picture of the sidegrain, it isn't difficult to predict where it would tearout.
With the #3 freshly sharpened and the chipbreaker set as close as I could get it, I tried planing with the grain. Nothing happened. Taking the plane apart, I discovered why.
There wedged between the plane and the chipbreaker were the accordion shaped shavings. Not hard to figure this out. I purchased this plane a while back, sharpened it, tried it, and it worked fine, so that's all I did. Visual inspection of the front of the chipbreaker attached to the blade looked just fine, but it clearly wasn't when the chipbreaker was set this close. There was enough of a gap that the chips could force their way in. The fact that I use the ruler trick on my plane blades may have been a contributing factor, I don't know. After I cleaned up and shaped the chipbreaker, the plane started producing nice accordion shavings with no tearout, just a slight roughness in places. This is what the shavings looked like.
As you can see, they are somewhat short because they tend to break off. Next, I decided to try my Lee Valley bevel-up smoother with a 50 degree blade. In this case, the blade acts as its own chipbreaker because the angle of attack is 62 degrees. It too produced shavings without tearout, but they were distinctly different, not accordion-shaped and more continuous, leaving a surface that was slightly smoother.
The major difference between these two planes was that the bevel-up plane was noticeably harder to push.
That left the issue of why I had experienced such bad tearout with old #7. I removed the Hock blade and chipbreaker to look at them and this is what I saw:
The chipbreaker was set fully 1/16" back from the edge. Sharpening the blade and moving the chipbreaker up to the very edge of the blade gave me long continuous shavings with very slight tearout, easily removed with a cabinet scraper.
You can see what a tight roll the chipbreaker being set up like this produces. I think the reason it isn't accordion shaped is that the Hock chipbreaker is at a lower angle than the stock Stanley one. The front of it has the same shape as the blade and is about the same thickness. It's like a second blade turned over and with a slight bow in it.
What are the takeaways? First, I don't know why I have to continually relearn this lesson, but when something isn't going well it pays to stop and figure out why rather than just blundering ahead.
More significantly to readers of this blog who are hopefully not beset with this failing, the advice to set the chipbreaker absolutely as close to the edge as you can get it when planing difficult wood is confirmed. You don't want to do this normally, because the resulting accordion shavings are not continuous and leave a somewhat rougher finish.
Finally, I think Lee Valley's claim that the low angle smoother with a 50 degree blade will do a good job on difficult grain is also confirmed.
Those were the boards that I had to shift inside as I was called to work a week earlier than anticipated.
So the first task was to shift all of them out again. I decided that I could work around the table that was inside, but I still needed to move the chairs and a bit of other stuff outside before starting the actual work.
The boards are the same type as those that were put on the sub roof. It is not a typical type of boards to use for internal paneling/boards, but it is of a much better quality than the regular type used. In Denmark the usual boards to be used would be something called "rustic boards". They are made out of the surplus Christmas trees that grew to fast so they were too large to sell. The distance between the growth rings is typical 3/8" or thereabouts, so the wood is of an exceptionally poor quality. The shape is like a tongue and groove board with the tongue something like 1/2" too long. So once the boards are mounted, there is a trench between each board. They are available in various widths and either nature, or artificially whitened, smooth or rough sawn.
But that aside - I chose the other type because I think they look better in a classic barn, and they were actually cheaper per square meter (or square foot if you like).
I mount the boards using regular nails. I know that a pneumatic nail gun is faster, but I actually like to hammer in nails, so I go for the slow and old fashioned way.
Once all the boards are mounted, I plan on putting some strips of wood in the corners and around the window sills, to cover the gaps.
Watch Guy Dunlap build our Hi Vise in this excellent video from our friends at Highland Woodworking.
Hi Vises are in stock and ready to ship.
Every step of making this dugout chair has been a little weird. Fastening its seat in place was no different. After cutting the seat to shape using using the help of ticking sticks, I rasped the rim of the seat until I could wedge it inside the trunk and get it level. I usually use a 6” spirit level for this task, but I left it at home. So I […]
Some folks think of hand planes as artifacts. Some consider them cute antiques. Others have the best of intentions to use them on a project some day.
I consider my hand planes to be time savers. They cut out sanding chores, they shave impossibly thin shavings so I can fit joints together perfectly, they smooth and flatten. I would be lost without my kit of hand planes. Their roles in the shop has increased even as my number of machines have. They can do chores that machines cannot.
Saturday we host another workshop at the Studio on Handplanes: Tuning and Using. Join us for the quiet satisfaction of tuning and then using a hand plane. Can’t beat it.
I Laugh in the Face of Tapered Compound Angled Mortises
The process of boring the tapered mortises for the legs is a lot simpler once you just do it. You will hear lots of talk about rake and splay angles and resultant angles and sight lines. Some internet searching will yield any number of results on how to bore the angles using mirrors and lasers and by standing on one leg after 3PM on a Tuesday. The way I was taught during my first Windsor chair was much less angles and precision, and mostly eyeball and feeling my way through it. Even today with so much great instruction on the subject that didn’t exist 10 years ago I still find Windsor construction to be a very organic and forgiving style of construction.
I say all of this to urge you to suspend the questions for a minute and just bore some holes. Using the seat pattern that Peter Galbert so helpfully provided we know the location of the sight lines, the location of the holes, and the resultant angles. So grab a bevel gauge and an auger bit and go to it. Remember that the reamer can correct a lot of disparity that may result while you bore your holes.
Reaming Tip Not Covered in the VideoI neglected to talk about this in the video and frankly I got lucky when my workbench intervened and stopped my reamer from going any deeper. Remember that while you are reaming that you do want to maintain the diameter of the hole on top of the seat. The tenons have been rounded down to a minimum diameter of 1/2″
but if you keep pushing the reamer will widen the hole all the way through and you will have to drive your legs in so far that you will shorten the legs unnecessarily. So keep an eye on the depth of the reamer and if appropriate but a stop block underneath your seat to ensure you don’t widen the holes on the top of the seat too much.
Next Live Broadcast
12 PM on Saturday 11/4/17
I carve the seat so that it delicately cradles my posterior
Octagonal Legs?Don’t want turned legs? How about tapered octagonal legs often found in Welsh Stick Chairs?
|quiet time work|
|walnut banding is solid|
|very snug fit|
|marked the connection|
|tight on the left and some daylight on the right|
|rounded over the lid banding|
|rounded over the top of the lid|
|first knob choice|
|3 more knob choices|
|found some feet|
|going to make a walnut handle|
|fixing the Disston 6" square|
|half laps on the legs done|
|I had to plane one leg square, the other one was sawn square|
|here you can see the tilt in it|
|I wanted parallel|
|had to make a pit stop|
|got my point back|
|decided to sharpen the iron on my new blockplane|
|10 strokes on the 80 grit runway|
|got a hump|
|I'll keep it in here for now|
|replacements for the hasp|
Update: Found a solid brass one from House of Antique Hardware and I almost skipped on it. S/H was $3 less than the sash lift.
|the back for the plumbline stick|
What is hexakosioihexekontahexaphobia?
answer - a fear of the number 666
We’ve just posted a new video at Crucible Tool’s blog on how to create two additional (and useful) tip shapes for your dividers. One tip is designed specifically for scribing arcs. The other is for cutting inlay or recesses.
While we show these tips on our Improved Pattern Dividers, they can be created on any pair of dividers.
Also in the short video, Raney demonstrates a down-and-dirty way to harden and temper the tips with a torch.
— Christopher Schwarz
Filed under: Crucible Tool, Uncategorized
Our printing plant is in the final stages of work on “Carving the Acanthus Leaf” by Mary May. And, as always, our books are a creative struggle to the end.
This week we’ve been working on the “diestamp,” the debossed image on the inside of the dust jacket. We take great pains with our diestamps because they will live on longer than our dustjackets. (If you want to see my favorite diestamp, check out the one for “Calvin Cobb – Radio Woodworker!” and see if you can figure out the Easter egg.)
Diestamps are old technology. And though many printing plants can produce amazing covers with holograms, laser cutouts and unusual leather finishes, getting a diestamp with fine detail is a struggle. Almost every time I send our diestamp to the nice people at our prepress service, I am sure they smack their collective foreheads.
Their response is usually: I don’t think we can hold that level of detail without the image blurring.
To their credit, they are willing to try different approaches. Lately, we’ve been using a stamp made from magnesium and some different foils to see if we can achieve the fine lines shown in the samples above. In this case, we found the correct combination of a magnesium die and a cream foil that gave us the effect we’re looking for.
With the diestamp complete, our job is over. It’s up to the printing plant to bring all the different parts – the book block, boards, endsheets, cover cloth and dustjacket – together to complete the book. We haven’t been told when the book will ship, but history suggests it will be in within the next three weeks.
— Christopher Schwarz
Filed under: Carve the Acanthus with Mary May, Uncategorized
Many woodworkers who focus attention on period reproductions “read” the images in books and pieces in museums to discover to what furniture tells them. Designs sometimes clue them in as to what period of furniture history the pieces were built. (It’s not always clear-cut because no furniture periods ended exactly on a Tuesday with a new period beginning on Wednesday.) It’s possible to learn in what area of the country pieces were built if they read the materials used in construction.
Finally it’s finished, all the articles completed, edited over and over again. This was a big project for me as the moulding planes article was a toughie to write about. I needed to provide enough description without putting you to sleep and make it easy enough to follow. I think I have accomplished both and I believe you will be able to make any h&r using a simpler method than the traditional British and American approach. I have covered many aspects of the build and the reasoning behind the numbering system.
I’m sorry it took so long, but I think you will agree it was worth the wait.
As you can see I’ve also made some minor changes. Hope you like it.
As always I would like to thank Matt McGrane our magazine’s contributing editor. I would be lost without him.
Issue III release date is on Saturday 4th November 2017.
Yes, it is free
But getting back to the rut I seem to have fallen into with saturday shop days. Maybe I should just go with the flow on this and just accept getting to the shop after lunch isn't too bad. I can be a wee bit nutso and OCD rolled together with this being on a time schedule. Coming home and vegging after OT and hitting the shop after lunch isn't going to stop the sun from rising or setting. Once got to the shop and started working on the walnut banding on the lid, the juices started to warm up and I started a left field project.
|mitering the lid|
Now I start by clamping one piece in place. The fit on that side doesn't matter. This first piece is only used to set and mark the second one.
|my setting line|
|marking the first piece to be glued down|
|I'll shave this until the knife line is barely visible.|
|I'm going to try this glue|
|two sides glued on|
|one of my left field projects|
I got the back long piece cut out and I had to stop. The workbench is being use to do the lid so I couldn't plane and work the 5/4 stock. I'll pick this one back up tomorrow.
|it's been an hour|
I already bought a plumb bob that looks a lot like the one in my drawing. It is very difficult to find one of these that don't cost a boatload of dollars. Since plumb bobs were replaced with lasers and other electronic gadgets they have become collectibles.
|a scrap of pine saw in two for the legs|
|a piece of pine from this board will be the horizontal leg|
|eyeballed an angle|
|the more I use this saw, the more I'm liking it|
|didn't have much to true up|
|less than one frog hair proud|
|ubiquitous blurry pic|
|tenon plane to the rescue|
|closed it up a lot|
|ancient tools deserve to be glued with an ancient glue|
|that is a good joint line|
|did just as well on this side too|
|last strip glued on|
|a hasp or a handle|
What do the letters in CAPTCHA stand for?
answer - completely automated public truing test to tell computers and humans apart
Actually it is a project that I have considered for some time: A new sawbench.
I made a sawbench something like 8 years ago, and it is one of the most used pieces of equipment I have in the shop. A thing that I have thought would be useful was if I could use a sawbench for my dowel plates. That way I didn't have to mess around on the top of the workbench, to make sure that a hole for one of the dogs was straight below the hole in the dowel plate.
Also the stretchers for the legs would be a perfect little test subject for my new chain mortiser. And with Asger and Gustav in the shop, I didn't have any room for building the staircase which meant that it was perfectly OK in my mind to start another project.
The first bench I made was made exactly to the measurements outlined in Woodworking Magazine.
This time I decided that it might not cause the world economy to collapse, if I decided to make a few alterations to the design.
So I made the top thicker, wider and a little bit longer than on the original. I stayed with the same height, and also the same angle of splay on the legs.
This time I used larch for legs and stretchers, and a piece of Sitka spruce for the top that I milled long time ago.
The tenons of the stretchers are drawbored and wedged. The top is secured with dowels that I tried to drawbore as well. I did that so that the dowels will hold the top to close to the notch in the top of the legs.
Below the top there are a couple of reinforcements glued and screwed to the legs.
I used a chisel and a router plane to make a recess for the dowel plates. I chose not to make it the same depth as the plates, because it is easier to remove the plates when there is a bit protruding through the top like it is now.
A small piece of elm was cut and planed to fit into the recess while not in use for the dowel plates.
Klaus and I are sprending a workshop weekend. I learn a lot I want (and need) to do myself.
Eony after Klau' special treatments. I like the dul look of this stage. Calls for experiments.
Marking with with color.
Homework for me. The electrical coping saw is in my shop rather long an this is no work for the bandsaw.
Shavings from thicknessing - with a #6
Späne vom Bohren.
|got surprise here - Miles's ruler is on top and mine is on the bottom|
|another difference in the size (width)|
|some screwdrivers for Miles|
|cocked upwards on the right|
|flipped the lid 180 and still higher on the right|
|I don't think it's the lid|
|right end of the banding is higher than the left|
|my lowest spot|
|little bit of a gap on the right|
|lid flipped 180|
|four sides and lid planed and cleaned up|
|flushed the top and bottom|
|trying out my miter guide|
|beveled 3 sides|
|won't make it|
|sawed and planed a backing strip for the miters|
|the original long strips|
|my last two|
|I'll do the lid banding tomorrow|
What was the number of the last Apollo mission to the moon in 1972?
answer - Apollo 17
Slightly harder twat…
…And the iron’s sticking half inch out of the sole of the plane.
Wooden planes look good.
They are good.
But they ain’t half got awkward sod written all over them.
Since hand tools became a thing again, folk have been really struggling with the setting of wooden planes.