Mulesaw

 I was asked by a friend who runs a commercial diving company, if our company could help in making new fenders for Oddesundbroen. 

He said that the job was so unorthodox, that he immediately thought that we would be the right ones to do it. The thing is that the fenders are made out of wood, and since the base pillar of the bridge is round, the fenders had to be sawed out to a 15 foot radius, and they had to be made out of 10" thick azobe / ekki (tropical hardwood).

There were also some smaller parts that needed to be mounted, but they were just made from straight pieces, so they weren't equally challenging.

The first step was to make a template so I had something that I could use for marking out the fenders. 
The template was then placed on top of the azobe planks 10 " x 20" x 10feet

The newly purchased Mafell ZSE330K was originally purchased with this specific project in mind, and performed brilliantly. 
Given that the wood was so thick and hard, I found out that by attaching an elastic securing strap to the saw and to the end of the wood, it would help by giving a fixed pull, so I didn't have to push quite as hard to saw the curve. Every now and then I would reposition the elastic strap another 8" to make it smooth.

When all the pieces were made, I helped installing it at the bridge.
The entire project had been a little delayed due to the delivery of the wood as far as I have understood, so we were challenged by having to do the actual mounting in November which is not the optimal month for outdoor working in marine environments.

The diving company had deployed a working barge, a small work dinghy and a work boat for the job. The barge had a small tool storage shed/ workshop onboard, and a hydraulic crane plus a generator.
The work boat would tow the barge out to the bridge, and we would secure it to the bridge pillar and get to work. 
The waves, heavy current and tide were all factors that we tried to work around. Some days the wind and waves would make it impossible to work safely, and then we'd try to do some preparing in the small harbour, and other days we just had to cancel it all.

We had completed the hinged bridge pillar part of the project, but the abutment pillar still had to be re-fendered. I had helped in removing a lot of the old wood fenders on that, and the old rubber fenders as well.
Sadly, the weather turned so bad in the end of November, that I was unable to see the project completed since I had to return to sea and my regular job. 

All in all a very challenging and satisfying project to have worked on.

Going through my pictures, I can see that I forgot to take any of the newly installed curved fenders.

Mafell ZSE 330K, a fantastic tool.

Oddesundbroen

 A friend of Gustav asked if we could make a dedicated cabinet for ribbons that are won/awarded at equestrian events. If you participate in a lot of events, you eventually end up with a bunch of those. She wanted it around 55" x 35" and preferably in light oak if possible.

I normally don't have any oak in stock for building furniture of, but I once got a great tip from Ty Stange: Buy old oak furniture and reuse the materials. 
In the late 70'ies and beginning of the 80'ies, there were some Danish furniture factories that made some good honest oak furniture, but the design is really not something that strikes a chord today. I found a cabinet with stained glass doors at a thrift shop, and paid 27 US$ for it. That was solid oak, furniture grade, and enough to build the entire cabinet from.

After some stock processing, to reduce the thickness, I dovetailed the corners of the main frame. A face frame was made using half lap joints in order to make it a fast build. 
I glued on some strips to help making a rabbet for the back to be glued onto, and that worked pretty good. Due to the original size of the back, I had to glue some reinforcement strips to cover where the back was joined.

The doors were also made using half laps in the corners, and after the glue had dried, I routed a rabbet for the glass to fit into.

The glass was something that I had leftover from the greenhouse, and I could reuse the hinges and pulls from the original cabinet.

A couple of strips with holes in where glued to the sides. I weaved some 1/8" braided line through all the holes, to give something for the ribbons to be attached to.

Finally two magnetic closing mechanisms were mounted, and the cabinet was complete.

I didn't go all wild with sanding, since it will be placed in a stable, but all in all i am happy with the result. 

 Last time I was home, I bought a Mafell ZSE 330K. It was for sale in the northern part of Germany, just about an hour or so south of the border, so I was lucky since most of the machines I find for sale in Germany are situated in the southern part of the country.

It came with a transport cart for use on the job site, but I wanted to make a box where it could be stored and also where I could keep any tools needed for the regular use of the machine.

I happened to have some thin larch boards that I had milled once, and there was just enough to make the sides of the box. They were planed int he thickness planer and ripped before gluing them into some panels.

The panels were trimmed to size on the table saw, and I marked up for some dovetails. Since it was going to be a tool box, I opted for regular through dovetails. With pins on the end boards where I would mount some chest lifts.

I gang cut the tails, and after some uneventful chiseling, I could mark the pins. Some more chiseling and the sides were assembled. 
I hadn't really planned on what to use for a bottom, but I didn't want the box to be heavier than needed since the Mafell itself is no light weight machine. I had a piece of 15 mm plywood, and I planed a rabbet along all sides of it so the bottom would fit inside the sides and still have a flat part to be glued to the underside of the sides. This also allowed me to nail from the sides as well as straight from the bottom to give a strong joint.

Fitting out the box was an incredible enjoyable and relaxing part of the project. I was in no hurry, and I tried to not fuss too much over ultra fine finishing details. 
The fence for the saw is kept in the bottom, around it, there were room for the tools needed to adjust and service the saw. I included 3 spanners, a screwdriver and chain saw file. There is also a room for the riving knife and the chain + saw bar. I drew a line around each part and wrote what should go where. 

When the interior was fitted, I mounted a set of chest lifts. To give a bit more for the screws to bite into, I glued a small piece of plywood to the inside where each lift was going to be.

The lid was made from an old glued panel from an old solid kitchen cabinet door (or something like that). It was a panel that I had kept on the loft of the barn for purposes like this. 
To keep the lid from scooting around, I added some strips on the underside, that works as dust seals as well as helping to keep the lid in place. I didn't mount any hinges or any locking devices. The idea is that you can just lift of the entire lid and gain access to the saw and tools. I was afraid that if I had hinged the lid, I would have to add straps or similar to prevent it from falling over and ripping the hinge screws out. And all that would just make it more difficult to reach inside the box.
I was happy to see, that when everything was in place, there was still room for a 5 L jug of chain saw bar oil. So the box contains all that I need to use the saw at any job sites.

Bar along upper wall, tools & parts in place.

Saw body in place.