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What would you recommend as a beginning set of tools for someone who wants to enter into the world of Japanese woodworking. I am thinking several chisels, saws, planes, etc. I am interested in building everything from a bed to completely sculptural...
Whew! That’s a lot of ground to cover. I’ll do my best to address this over the next couple of weeks. In the meantime, here’s a place to start if you’re interested in making dovetails.
I was a wee bit jittery when I came home tonight because I wasn't sure what to expect with the frame. Whenever I make a mitered frame I always shake the crap out of it. I do every single side and I shake it like I stuck a wet finger in 220 volt outlet. My last frame didn't survive the first leg. I was hoping I would do better this time.
|still flat on the bench|
I do this shaking test to ensure the frame is sound. If it can make it pass me shaking the crap out of it, it will make it to hanging on the wall.
|the open corner|
|the sole looks good which is confusing|
Patrick Leach answered my Email to him today and I was very much surprised by it. Instead of reading I had played with it and I owned it, and said he would take it back. Not only did he write and say he would take back the #2, he said I could also return the 10 1/2 that I had bought from him. I think he must have read my blog post on my woes with the #2 because I didn't mention the 10 1/2 in my email to him at all.
I wrote him back saying I would get the #2 back to him sometime this week but I was keeping the 10 1/2. I've been following his monthly for sale lists for years now and I don't believe that he knowingly put the 10 1/2 up for sale knowing it was repaired. He puts repaired tools up for sale all the time and always makes note it.
Him taking the #2 back and then offering to take back the 101/2 makes him a stand up guy in my eyes. A lot of people I know say that his prices are high but I don't think so. I think that they are in line with other tool mongers I visit. I saw a #2 (type 13), with high knobs for $195 and another #2 that looked like a rusty door stop for $300 (he said it was a pre-lateral #2). I picked this one from Pat for $215 because I have bought so many other good tools from him. Maybe I'll get lucky and he'll have another #2 on June's sale list. Even after this I wouldn't hesitate to buy from him again.
So the saga with the #2 ends here. No more trying to bring this back to user status. I also lost out on the 5 1/2. I got an email today from Jim Bode saying that he can't find the plane so he gave me a refund. He has another 5 1/2 but he says it has damaged stamped on it. I thought about getting it but I don't want to take a chance on it. So the hunt continues for a #2, #5 1/2, and a #10.
|still not done|
How much does the Oscar statuette weigh?
answer - 8 1/2 pounds
While a compass and straightedge can design simple pieces of furniture, you also need curves that have a varying radius to draw smooth shapes that connect three or four points – the accelerating curves that give motion and life to furniture.
The tools for these important curves are commonly called French curves or Burmester curves. And they are the starting (and ending) point for any designer who wants to escape rigid rectilinear shapes and simple circles.
While you can buy inexpensive plastic curves at an art supply store, the plastic tools have disadvantages compared to traditional wooden curves.
Most plastic curves have a small rabbets along their edges. While we understand the function of the rabbet, we think it interferes with making a true and smooth line because you can tilt your pencil or pen. Traditional wooden curves have no rabbet, allowing greater accuracy.
Second, plastic curves are difficult to mark notations on, such as where you want a curve to start and stop. You can mark them with a permanent marker, but this is slow, inaccurate (in our experience) and messy. Plus, smooth plastic curves slide too easily on the paper while making your mark, again, spoiling your accuracy.
Traditional wooden curves, which are difficult to come by on the used market, are a joy to use. Warm in the hand, they are precise, they stick to the paper while you are drafting and it’s easy to write (and erase) notations on their surfaces.
The problem with traditional wooden curves is they were not truly dimensionally stable as they were typically made from solid hardwood. They were also fragile.
The Crucible Design Curves
When we set out to design our curves we wanted them to be strong and stable (like plastic curves) but warm, accurate and easy to use (like wooden curves). The solution was a special five-ply bamboo material specially designed for laser-cutting.
We designed our curves using an English set made in 1943 as our foundation and inspiration. The curves are cut and engraved in Covington, Ky., then sanded to #220-grit in our shop in Fort Mitchell, Ky.
Bamboo is the perfect material for this tool. It is more dimensionally stable than any hardwood or softwood that we know of, it doesn’t absorb moisture as readily as wood and the five plies of veneer ensure it will stay the same shape year round.
Like plastic curves, these will bend readily across curved shapes without breaking.
Our first set of curves consists of three of our favorite shapes. The large curve is about 12″ long. The smaller two are about 6″ long. A full set of curves encompassed many individual tools. And while we hope to bring out more curves in the future, we think these three are an excellent starting point.
We are introducing these curves at Handworks 2017 where we will sell a set of three for the introductory price of $37. After Handworks they will be available in our online store. We might have to increase the price slightly for shipping and packaging costs charged by our warehouse.
Please stop by our booth at Handworks and give them a try. We’ll have a huge pile of them to sell in protective boxes suitable for travel.
— Christopher Schwarz
Filed under: Crucible Tool, Uncategorized
You don’t see me too often extolling the merits of power equipment but one piece of equipment i use enough in the day to day of life is a battery-driven drill-driver. I like them because they are a one hand operation, leaving my free hand to hold the work. It doesn’t mean I am abandoning …
I can promise your jaw will drop when you see the poetic works of Joseph Walsh in person. Joseph is an Irish genius who runs a spectacular creative furniture and sculptural studio from his family farm in West Cork, Ireland. Walsh, a self taught woodworker, a designer and a visionary, is one of the most creative makers that I have met. His specialty is building bent wood pieces: Stand alone furniture, wall pieces […]
Wood News readers may recall from our January 2017 “Show Us Your Shop” that Tony Rumball from Canberra Australia had access to three shops – one of which was his local (community) Mens Shed.
Mens Sheds promote the well being and health of men and play a role in the prevention of social isolation by providing a safe, friendly and welcoming place for men to work on meaningful projects, socialize and contribute to the wider community.
Tony has told us that in his Mens Shed there are a number of “woodies” with interests in woodturning, toy making, furniture repair and generally making wooden ‘stuff’.
For the first time, some of these members recently entered projects in the Craft competition in the annual Canberra Agricultural Show. The entrants had various levels of skill and experience but all wanted to ‘give it a go’ and they submitted these projects:
All enjoyed the experience and are looking forward to next year’s competition!
I’ve long been fascinated by legends involving old chairmakers. Here in Kentucky we had Chester Cornett, an enigmatic bearded maker of the wildest ladderbacks and rockers I’ve seen. In Indiana we had a chairmaker in the southern part of the state who in the early 20th century made ladderbacks with a woven seat that look incredibly modern. In Australia, they have the “Jimmy Possum” chair. Reader Bradley van Luyt sent […]
Throughout L’art du Menuisier Roubo illustrates some pretty snazzy furniture. Print 261, “Plans and Elevations of a Closed Desk,” certainly fits that description. If I recall the accompanying text correctly, this desk is designed for the use of four (or maybe even six) people. All of them sitting side by side in an un-air conditioned Parisian office (it is worth noting that the word “bureaucracy” is a French word) scratching out stacks of paperwork ad nauseam and ad infinitum. Ahh, cubicle life at its very best.
The print is in excellent condition, and was both drawn and the copper plate engraved by Roubo himself.
If you have ever wanted to own a genuine piece of Rouboiana, this is your chance. I will be selling this print at Handworks on a first-come basis, with terms being cash, check, or Paypal if you have a smart phone and can do that at the time of the transaction.
Saturday’s ‘Build a Box’ workshop at Haystack was fun. If you haven’t been there, the campus is gorgeous in its tucked-away water-front location. The story goes that, back in the 60s, they chose this location based on its remoteness and solitude. They wanted to find a place where no highway would ever be built. I would say this little island off the coast of Maine was the perfect choice. Off the beaten path is an understatement.
I had a great variety of students: male and female, young and old. There were 10 students, most of whom had little no experience using hand tools. We started the day off discussing proportional design with dividers and then decided on dimensions for the boxes before breaking down the boards to length in teams. While everyone took turns sawing, I set up the school’s handplanes putting a slight camber on the irons.
It was great to be able to hand each student a properly set up handplane from the first moment. With only minor instruction, everyone was making beautiful wispy shavings in the first few minutes. It wasn’t long before folks encountered the frustration of reversing grain and tear out. I coached each student through those tricky spots. This kind of experience always makes a big impression on people. To experience first-hand how the iron’s edge and the wood interact is worth more than reading all the books in the world.
After lunch, we moved to cutting the joinery. I demonstrated how to layout the rabbets on the front and back together so that they perfectly match. We gauged the rabbets’ depth, scribed the shoulders with a knife, used a chisel to create a V-groove for the saw to rest in, and sawed the shoulder to the gauge lines. To remove the waste, I taught them how to split it off with the chisel and pare to the line. They were pretty impressed with how easy that was!
By the end of this crash-course day most everyone had their boxes assembled and some had their bottoms installed. Although we didn’t complete the boxes, I accomplished my goal of introducing everyone to hand tools by diving right in. Considering the limited time, I was proud of everyone. It was amazing to see piles of shavings at everyone’s feet.
I’m so happy to report that my Japanese plane car won the “Funniest Car” award at Fine Woodworking Live’s Hardwood Derby. Here’s how I made it.
I started with a Pinewood Derby car kit, mainly to get the wheels and axles. I took a piece of Japanese white oak that’s typically used to make a dai, milled it to the size of the pine blank for the body, and then laid out the lines needed to locate the throat and mouth of the dai. If you want to get one of these kits, go to your local Boy Scout/Cub Scout store. You can get these at hobby stores, but it’s not clear to me that the Boy Scouts or Cub Scouts benefit from those sales.
After that, it was some chopping to clear out the mortise and the mouth of the dai.
I went through the whole process of making a Japanese plane body, including sawing out the side grooves that hold the plane blade in place. The rules of the hardwood derby said that you couldn’t use metal, so I made a blade out of a piece of ebony instead.
And here’s the final result. Most Japanese planes have the blade set at a 40º effective cutting angle, but since this was a hardwood derby, I set the plane blade at 45º. That’s also why I numbered the car 45. The blade has the Chinese character for “car” carved into the face of it, just like the calligraphy you see on a Japanese plane blade. To make it clear that this was a Japanese plane car, I applied a Hello Kitty sticker to the front. And the wheels give this car two points of contact on the sole, just like a real Japanese plane.
Matt Kummel had the same idea, but with a western plane.
And as you most likely have heard by now, Dyami Plotke took first place with his blue-colored Timberstrand car. I feel proud that my carpooling partner and I combined to take two of the trophies.
At an event like this, everyone is gunning to build the fastest car. The third award for Best Craftsmanship could have gone to any of the excellent craftsmen at this event. Providing the most entertainment value, however, would be the hardest thing to pull off at this race. And it was a guy from New Jersey who did that.
|right side shaving|
|center shaving is finally coming out full width|
|left side on test run #4|
|shaving on the right on test #4|
|basically one screw holding the frog in place|
|the iron is dead nuts square|
From the comments I got on this, the majority sentiment says to return it to Patrick. A couple did say that a helicoil would work on fixing the stripped screw hole. I email someone who does plane restorations but he said he doesn't repair frogs or stripped screws in the bed.
Finding a machine shop around here is going to be a problem. I tried to find one to make my dovetail marking gauge and I got no takers. I don't think I will have any luck with someone wanting to do a small thread repair job neither. I'll give it a try nonetheless.
I sent an email to Patrick about this but I haven't gotten a reply back from him. If he will accept my returning it fine. If not I will do my best to get it working.
|on a brighter note|
|he was right and it was sharp and ready to go|
|been looking for #49|
|box if up for grabs|
|I had to try it out|
|it works as advertised|
|took the long screw out|
|making my wife's certificate frame|
|rounding over the center square part|
|tried the beading plane next|
|the winner on the bottom|
|sharpening the irons first|
|I just did this one and only used it once|
|touched it up on these two stones|
|flattening the back again|
|dropped back down to the coarsest diamond stone|
|sharpened and hones up to 1200|
|small round strop for the curved parts|
|stropped the back|
|two long sides down|
|first screw up|
|lot of respect for the old masters|
|finally got it rough sawn|
|shooting board set for 45°|
|plane set for a light cut|
|beads are a bit off|
|planing the beads again|
|all the corners closed up|
|using hide glue|
What were the names of the 7 castaways on Gilligan's Island?
answer - Gilligan the First Mate, Jonas Grumby the Skipper, Roy Hinkley the Professor, Mary Ann Summers, Ginger Grant the movie star, and Thurston Howell III and his wife Lovey
As you already know my posts over the last few months have been no existent. Those of you who follow orepass on instagram already know that I had surgery on my hip at the end of the year. The recovery has gone well. In fact I began running again this week, although one minute at a time. Woodworking has taken longer and the little bit of aggravation created in my hip when sharpening and planing has faded.
The tools have sat long enough and I have been cleaning, sharpening and thinking. After six months a simple project that encompasses several joints will bring me back. Looking through magazines and blogs and finding my saw bench buried under a pile of boxes, bags and family ‘items’ a new saw bench is in order. From all the items piled on and around my bench it appears that others may have been moving into the shop area!
A bench that has caught my eye several times is the split saw bench, several people have blogged with their own version and I’ve had trouble identifying the original designer, although many people point to Billy’s Little Bench. It’s important to give credit where it’s due, but in this case I can only point you to the web. Look up split top saw bench and tell me which ones you prefer.
My original saw bench was built many years ago as a a project from Shannon Rogers’ Hand Tool School. It has served its time well but certainly is showing its age and a couple of repairs have failed to keep it rigid. The split bench should be more rigid and I like the concept of being able to saw boards down the center. Additionally, the dovetails and mortise and tenon joints will help tune skills that have been resting.
Looking forward to hearing from all of you and thanks for all the support over the last few months.
Many years ago, and for many years, I used to host a monthly lunch meeting of like-minded observers of things economic, political, and philosophical, for a no-holds-barred off the record 90 minutes of spirited discussion over scrumptious food. The crew was heavily weighted towards minarchist thinkers, mostly of the Hayekian economist model. One of my stalwart participants was MarkM, who for decades was a policy analyst for international brokerage firms, and one of the most insightful men I have ever met. To this day, and I still receive his weekly newsletter, if he says something I pay very close attention.
At one point (1990?) he was musing about the coming schisms and reorganization of the culture, eventually breaking apart and reforming into what he called “gated communities of interest.” In his thesis, people would use the internet and other vehicles to find fellow travelers for whatever the interest in question was, and these new virtual communities would in great part supersede our physical neighborhoods. Notwithstanding this was more than a quarter century ago, as I live in the least populous county east of the Mississippi I find his words to have been prescient.
I’ve been thinking about Mark’s comments recently as I reflect on my circle of correspondence, spanning multiple topics and including many people I have never met in person. In some cases the interactions do develop a physical manifestation as we “strangers” send items to each other.
Recently one of my correspondents demonstrated a profound understanding of both me and my philosophical heritage when this item arrived in the mail from him. I cannot say I was truly surprised at one level, as our emails have revealed that he has a better understanding of US history and perspectives than almost any US citizens, despite the fact that this man has never set foot on our soil (although I am encouraging him to emigrate to the Virginia Highlands). Further, I already knew him to be immensely talented and highly skilled, and this panel of copper punch-work bears that out.
With that, I give you the new and treasured accouterment for my shop, and the honored location for this artwork in The Barn. Every time I gaze out on the mountains, which is pretty often, my eye is taken to this symbol of my own political inclinations.
And I think of a friend I have never met in person, an esteemed citizen of my own Virtual Community.
Last year sometime, 360 Woodworking purchased a few slabs of bowling alley with the idea to turn them into workbenches. If you’re not familiar with bowling allies, which I was not, you may be in for a couple of surprises.
Surprise #1 is that a bowling alley is not solid, as in one big-ass piece or block. These lanes were like accordions; they bowed in and out depending on where you applied pressure.
Hello William, thank you for answer my question and share your bible box project. I had a try to find woodworking club in Singapore but there is seems to not available. However when I find, I find a few guys on Instagram that I would like to share with...
Thanks for the info! If you’re on Instagram, check these folks out.
With school out, our sticker heiress (Maddy) is hunkering down for a long summer of lab work and unpaid research assisting a PhD candidate in Columbus. The good news: the lab work and research helps her as an animal science major. The bad news: The two jobs pay less than working the counter at a pizza restaurant (one of her many other jobs at college).
Thanks to sticker sales, Maddy has saved enough money to scrape by without having to sell any organ meat attached to her skeleton.
She’s home this weekend so we can feed her, replenish her toilet paper supply and help with her laundry. Oh, and so she can abuse/love our cats. Shown is Wally, who is up for anything. Want to see him in a tuxedo? We can probably arrange that.
Maddy reports that she is down to the last 150 copies of the current set of stickers. So if you want an engraving of A.J. Roubo to adorn your band saw, laptop or cat, don’t tarry.
You can order a set of three stickers from her etsy store here. Yes, she accepts international orders.
Or, for customers in the United States, you can send a $5 bill and a SASE (self-addressed stamped envelope) to Maddy at:
Stick it to the Man
P.O. Box 3284
Columbus, OH 43210
She’ll put the three current sticker designs in your envelope and mail them back to you. These are nice, 100-percent vinyl weatherproof and cat-proof stickers.
— Christopher Schwarz
Filed under: Uncategorized
One of the projects high on my list, in the event that I ever had a lathe, is a 17th Century turned book stand that Peter Follansbee reintroduced. It’s a nifty design with a ratcheting mechanism to adjust the angle of display and a wide shelf on which to seat the book. Now that I have a lathe and trying to learn to turn, the book stand seemed like a perfect project to aid me along. Plus, I simply really want to make one!
In a previous post I discussed that these beginning lathe projects needed to have a high probability of success. This book stand meets that requirement while also challenging me to improve my skills. One challenge is the need to replicate identical parts. The posts should be turned to look identical and need to be the same length. The spindles need to all be the same length, but don’t necessarily need to be turned identically. So not as much pressure there. There is also the added challenge of laying out and drilling for the spindles. Another skill builder in this project is creating and sizing tenons. Plus there is a lot of practice in turning a uniform cylinder.
Peter Follansbee is not known for using plans and, true to form, I couldn’t find any existing plans for this book stand. There are several photos on his website and there is an episode of The Woodwright’s Shop where he and Roy build the book stand, sans any mention of sizes or measurements. He did post photographs of a book stand with a known book resting on it and another set of photos with overall dimensions. So, using my best reverse engineering skills, I looked up the dimensions of the book and extrapolated from there. I took all of that information and made my best guess as to the size of the parts and the for layout. I used that information to build a prototype. I knew I could refine that guess and develop a proportional design drawing once I had prototype in hand.
Using my rough sketch I began fabricating parts. Replication of identical parts was more challenging than I had anticipated, but I made a decent showing. The spindles were fairly easy, but getting the finials of the post to look the same involved a lot of fiddling and remounting before I was satisfied with the results. Soon enough I had a dry fit of the basic parts.
One element that I guessed wrong on was the ratchet “leg”. My first attempt was far too long. This caused the book stand to have too large of a footprint and it looked clunky. I simply made another shorter version.
I soon had my prototype complete with the first coat of Tried & True applied. Maple posts, white oak spindles and red oak shelf.
Now I could work out the proportions, make corrections and generate a proportional design drawing. My initial guess work proved to be pretty close. One thing that needed to be corrected was the locations of the spindles. I had noted, but chose to ignore, the asymmetric layout of the spindles on Follansbee’s examples. The spindle that houses the “kickstand” is offset towards the top spindle on his examples. I work with CAD every day, so I ran the layout on CAD to check as to if this offset is needed or is just an aesthetic choice. Turns out it can be beneficial. It allows the ratchet leg and kickstand to be the same length. Both spindle layouts work, but the asymmetrical layout does offer a functional edge and a bit of visual interest. I made a few other proportional corrections and then generated a final drawing to work from.
As with the lathe, I’ll not be posting my design drawing for the book stand. This is Peter Follonsbee’s work, not mine. He makes his living making, teaching and writing. I’m just some guy banging together stuff in my garage and my family eats the same regardless. Besides, rumor has it that he has a book in the works that may contain a certain book stand, so keep an eye out for that. I will post these drawings of ideas for finials, feet and spindles that I worked up.
The full-size book stand is large and perfectly sized for larger books such as those produced by Lost Art Press. However, most people don’t have need of a book stand this large. Tablets have replaced books for most people these days. So I decided to build a 2/3 scale example that would function as a tablet stand and be more useful to most people. This scaled down version would also serve verify if I had the proportions correct.
To scale the book stand down from the drawing I simply substituted a smaller dimension for the module (controlling dimension). The full-size version is based on a Module of 300mm. I altered this by using a dimension of 200mm (2/3 of 300 is 200) and worked out all of the rest with a pair of dividers.
Just about all of the material for this version came from the offcut bin. The posts are white oak, the spindles are black walnut and the shelf is white oak from a particularly unruly piece (I had to break out the card scraper) salvaged from a pallet.
This 2/3 scale version is perfect as a tablet stand, but is bit too small to be functional as a book stand. Since I was on a roll, I decided to build a 3/4 scale version. Again, all parts were culled from the scrap pile, save one. I had to buy a piece of oak for the shelf. This one has white oak posts and red oak for the spindles and shelf. I also ran with the oak theme and tried my hand at creating finials and feet that had an acorn motif.
I think the 3/4 scale is a good compromise and will be the perfect size for most people. It will easily hold most books as well as the popular tablets of the day.
I still needed to build another full-scale version that is based upon my design drawing to round out the set. So I rummaged around in my magic attic (previous owner left a lot of scrap wood up there) and culled out enough walnut and mahogany to build a full-scale version. The walnut is a little gnarly and has a big knot running through it and contains a little sap wood, but is fine for this. The shelf is from some unknown stuff that I have had for quite a while.
Quick tip: To locate the holes in the shelf for installing the feet install a finish nail in the post and clip it short. Then assemble the frame and press it down onto the shelf in the desired location. The finish nail will mark the location on the shelf for the hole.
The following shows exactly why I like designing with proportions. A piece can be scaled up or down and retain the same visual look. I can plug any distance into the Module (within practical reason) and produce a version to suit the need without altering the overall appearance.
These book stands are a lot of fun to build and are a great skill builder for learning to turn. They are also a great way to shrink the offcut pile.
As well as making some jack planes I've also made a small batch of matching smoothers. They are all in highly figured ash and brown oak.
The iron is 1 1/2" wide and a massive 1/4" thick and hardened to 62 Rc.
Like the jack plane, these will only be for sale at Handworks.