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Woodworking Resolutions – 360w360 E.210

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 12/29/2016 - 4:00am
Woodworking Resolutions – 360w360 E.210

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking the 360 guys discuss the end of 2016 and what they’d like to do in 2017.

Join the guys twice each week for six lively minutes of discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more). Chuck & Glen, and sometimes a surprise guest, all have their own opinions. Sometimes they agree and sometimes they don’t, but the conversation is always information packed and lots of fun.

Continue reading Woodworking Resolutions – 360w360 E.210 at 360 WoodWorking.

Something Odd This Way Comes.

The Furniture Record - Wed, 12/28/2016 - 10:07pm

(With apologies to Ray Bradbury)

At the now (in)famous auction was one of the oddest pieces of furniture I have ever seen. It was (and still is) an Italian Shell Carved Swivel Stool:


This lot has sold for $1400.

From the catalog:

Description :  19th century, mahogany, the seat is carved in the form of a large scallop shell which is supported by three cabriole legs with paw feet, the whole raised on a shaped plinth.


Another view.


Worth a third look.

It is just, to me, one of the most bizarre pieces of furniture I have seen in a while. And I see some odd stuff.

Then while visiting the Houmas House Plantation near New Orleans I saw this piano stool:


Not identical but another set of cousins.

The age of the stool was unknown but was in service of a 1901 Steinway Baby Grand.

You just never know what you’re going to find…



Ulmia 348 und 350

Old Ladies - Pedder's blog - Wed, 12/28/2016 - 12:46pm
Heute hatte ich Beusch in der Werkstatt. Eine Ulmia 348 sollte eine neue Säge erhalten.
Wir sind nicht ganz fertig geworden. Aber fast.

 Der Sägetisch ist absoluti identisch mit meiner Ulmia 350. Die Schieber sind sogar etwas größer.

Categories: Hand Tools


Northwest Woodworking - Wed, 12/28/2016 - 11:17am

Repair work has an appeal to me. It is fascinating to see what worked and what failed on a piece. See where it cracked? This tells me something that I can use in my own work. Avoid the pith, always avoid the pith. [I wish my carpenter’s helpers knew as much.]

This repair also shows me what grain direction yields. The ends of this dough bowl that I fixed has an abundance of end grain showing. This is why it broke so easily in shipping and also what I had to fix on it. It also shows much more darkening as the end grain over the years soaks up more dirt and oils and grease and water.

I also get to make something look as old as it ever was after hours of my gluing or patching or staining or distressing it. Trying to make something look as good as old takes trial and error, note taking, and luck. Into the mix was thrown: baking soda, ammonia, coffee grounds, tannic acid, a dilute ebonizing solution, tea bag, a pedestrian oil stain, dough itself heavily salted, water, and surrender were all added to this piece. Not all at once but one by one with care and discovery. Good fun.





Categories: Hand Tools

Tool Cabinet Shelves

orepass: Woodworking to Pass the Time - Wed, 12/28/2016 - 10:52am

One would think that with the cabinet almost complete a plan would exist for the shelves. I’m not quite there yet and it seems that until the cabinet has been used for a period of time there may be several iterations. Certainly there needs to be a couple of shelves and at least one for hand planes. Then there is the issue with the saws? Where will they go?

Categories: Hand Tools

Hone again, hone again, jiggety jig

Giant Cypress - Wed, 12/28/2016 - 7:28am

Sharpening Japanese chisels and plane blades is made easy by two features of these tools. They tend to be thicker than their western counterparts, which provides a wider surface and more stability when sharpening, and the soft layer wears away quickly, so all the work only needs to be concentrated on the thin hard layer of the tool.

Normally, I freehand sharpen. But there are occasions where I know that freehand sharpening a Japanese tool will take longer than usual, such as changing the bevel angle, setting up a new tool, rehabbing an old tool, or needing to get rid of a nick. The added time and, to be honest, the mind-numbing boredom that sets in when grinding out a nick makes it more likely that I’ll rock the chisel as I sharpen.

This is the time where using a jig can be useful. This allows consistent positioning of the tool as you’re going through the sharpening process because you don’t have to concentrate as much on holding the tool in a consistent position.

Some of the jigs that are commonly used for western tools are not ideal for Japanese tools. For example, the Eclipse clone honing guide does a decent job of holding chisels in the lower jaws, but it has trouble securely holding Japanese plane blades because of the added thickness of these tools. It can be done, but you have to take care that the tool doesn’t pop out.

I have found some honing guides that do work well with Japanese tools. For chisels, the Lee Valley Veritas Mark II sharpening guide works really well. The top clamping design holds the chisel securely, despite its thickness, and it is easy to set up the guide for the bevel angle that you want. With care, a shinogi-style chisel can be held in this jig as well.

There’s one small issue with using the Lee Valley Mark II sharpening guide with Japanese chisels. Remember, Japanese chisels (at least the better ones) are handmade objects, and as such, the sides may not be perfectly parallel. This can introduce a slight skew to the chisel as it sits in the jig. I usually check the chisel if I’m using this guide to make sure it’s as square as possible, and adjust it if it’s not. Then again, I think the importance of having a perfectly square edge on a chisel is overstated.

Plane blades are a bit tougher. Part of this is because Japanese plane blades taper slightly along their length, so that the sides are not parallel. Sharpening jigs that clamp from the side will have a little trouble maintaining a good grip on the blade because of this. Jigs that clamp from the top usually have a guide of some sort that references the side of the tool, and this will introduce a slight skew to the plane blade because of the slight taper of the sides.

There is a purpose-made jig for Japanese planes: the Grintec K2.

The Grintec has a number of elements that make it the ideal jig for sharpening Japanese plane blades. The holding mechanism (the white knob) clamps the plane blade from the top. 

There’s an adjustment (black knob) to place the side guide in the proper position depending on the width of the plane blade. The numbers on the left side correspond to the width of my plane blade. In this case, it’s 65 mm. 

There’s an additional adjustment on the side that sets the bevel angle (metal knob to the left). There are two scales that are set according to the length of the plane blade and the bevel angle desired.

I mainly sharpen plane blades freehand. But when I need to get out a nick, or need to reset the bevel angle, this jig has been invaluable.

Having said that, I’ve sharpened Japanese plane blades with both the Eclipse clone and the Lee Valley Mark II before, so it’s not impossible to use a different jig for this task. 

Deadman With a Tale

Rainford Restorations - Wed, 12/28/2016 - 4:54am

In building my workbench I also built a simple traditional deadman to help support long boards at the bench.

Workbench DeadmanWorkbench Deadman

This simple to build workbench accessory is as a great addition to any bench with a tail vise.

Bill demonstrating the use of his deadmanBill demonstrating the use of his deadman

If you’d like to learn more about this bench and how to build one for yourself, please check out my blog post on this topic over on the Popular Woodworking site here.

Take care,
@The Rainford

Filed under: Lost Art Press, Popular Woodworking, Portfolio, Workshop Projects, Writing Tagged: Bill Rainford, Continental Workbench, Danish Workbench, Deadman, featured, Lost Art Press, Popular Woodworking, Tage Frid, Tage Frid Workbench
Categories: General Woodworking

Happy New Year, A Great Experience, Ideas for the New Year, & News

Tools For Working Wood - Wed, 12/28/2016 - 4:00am

Over Christmas I went upstate to the 30th wedding anniversary party of a boyhood friend and his wife. We haven't seen much of each other lately, and it was great catching up with him, his wife, and groups of friends (some of whom I haven't seen in 20 years). The emotional connection with people and the recognition of the passage of time are part of what makes us human.

For my friends' wedding I promised to make them a blanket chest for the foot of their bed. The plans were from an article in a Reader's Digest book written by my woodworking teacher. It wasn't a huge project by any standards. It took me two years!

"Did you see your chest?" my friend asked.

"No," I said, thinking it was in another room.

"There it is," he said, and pointed to it. And there it was. In the living room, not a bedroom. It was, as you might expect, "part of the furniture." Covered with stuff, and inside, they told me, filled with things they don't use much. The cherry has aged well, and while I have build many far more complicated pieces since, this was one of the earliest things I made. I was really touched seeing the piece. One of the great things for an amateur about building furniture is that you can give it away and people treasure it. Every day they get the reminder of a long-ago connection. Somewhere on the chest I signed and dated it and probably wrote that it was a wedding present. And I put the info under the finish so it will stay put.

Back to the present.

We are in discussions about what products should be add to the store in the coming year. How should we extend the Gramercy Tools and BT&C lines? We have some ideas ourselves, but I would sure welcome some ideas. What are some of the products you wished we made or wished we sold? Send me an email with your suggestions joel@toolsforworkingwood.com.

In order to make space for new stuff, we need to get rid of old stuff. You can see our sale items here. We are adding more and more as we clear out some of the old items. Currently there is a lot of clothing on heavy sale, but more and more tools are being added daily.

I also want to give you a heads up about pricing. We will be raising prices of most of the Gramercy Tools Saws on January 1 2017. We haven't raised pricing in a few years, and our rent has doubled, materials have gone up etc. If you order at the current pricing we will of course honor the price even if we are out of stock and have to ship you the saw later. We are spending this week going over each tool and figuring out out current costs. Rasp prices will stay the same. Brush prices might go up a little but not for awhile.

I wish all of you and your family and friends a happy and healthy New Year. May you all find that piece of scrap that is just the right size for your project, and cut on the waste side of the line.

Season’s Bleatings

Pegs and 'Tails - Tue, 12/27/2016 - 5:44pm
The setbacks and frustrations have been several this year; a few have been unavoidable due to health issues, but others could and should have been avoided. Of these, the year’s greatest disappointment has been the loss of the entire text … Continue reading
Categories: Hand Tools

VIDEO: Issue Two Sneak Peek!

The Mortise & Tenon Magazine Blog - Tue, 12/27/2016 - 5:14pm


We just got a small box of Issue Two copies shipped to us from our printer! This new video on our YouTube channel is the first look into this new issue of our traditional hand-tool woodworking magazine! We are so excited about how it turned out... It’s even better than we could have hoped for! We can confidently say that if you enjoyed Issue One, you will love Issue Two. The freight delivery is in route now! We should be seeing those boxes soon!


Categories: Hand Tools

Cedar Strip Canoe 5

Heritage School of Woodworking Blog - Tue, 12/27/2016 - 3:51pm

Happy Holidays!! I hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas. Here at the school, we have been upgrading the class room and preparing for the classes next year. Thanks in large part to a generous donation from a repeat student and friend, we were able to buy 6 new Lie-Nielsen 4 1/2 smoothing planes and 10 […]

The post Cedar Strip Canoe 5 appeared first on Heritage School of Woodworking Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Awkward Show Remarks – 360w360 E.209

360 WoodWorking - Tue, 12/27/2016 - 4:07am
Awkward Show Remarks – 360w360 E.209

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking the 360 guys talk about awkward show remarks.

Join the guys twice each week for six lively minutes of discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more). Chuck & Glen, and sometimes a surprise guest, all have their own opinions. Sometimes they agree and sometimes they don’t, but the conversation is always information packed and lots of fun.

If you have topics you’d like to hear covered in future episodes, click here to send an email to the guys.

Continue reading Awkward Show Remarks – 360w360 E.209 at 360 WoodWorking.

Hot Hide Glue-New Setup

Hillbilly Daiku - Mon, 12/26/2016 - 10:24am

IMG_2403A few months ago I purchased the Lee Valley small hot hide glue pot.  I really like it.  Yes its small, holds about an ounce of glue, but that is more than enough for most projects.  The thing is extremely well made and will last generations.  When I purchased the pot I also purchased the warming plate.  It does exactly what it is supposed to do, keeps the glue at the proper working temperature.  So I have been happy with this setup, but…a set of circumstances has led to my experimenting with a new, larger capacity setup.

img_0263Several days ago Roland Johnson, of Fine Woodworking, put up a blog post about using a wax warmer as a hide glue pot.  I read the article, thought it was nice solution, but I was just fine with what I already had.  In the post there was a link to Amazon’s listing of a wax warmer.  I clicked it, thought the price was reasonable, but, again, I’m happy with what I already had.

The next day I had to place a last-minute Christmas gift order on Amazon.  Since I had previously viewed the wax warmer, Amazon made a point of showing it to me again.  Well their marketing ploy worked and I spent the $29 on the wax warmer.  It showed up on Christmas Eve morning and I went straight to work setting it up for hot hide glue.

What I received was a temperature controlled heating unit with a lidded, removable aluminum pot.  Just like the commercially available, purpose built electric glue pot (Hold Heat), the warmer uses an air jacket instead of a water jacket to heat the contents of the pot.  The removable pot has a 20oz capacity when filled to the brim.  That’s waaay more glue than I would ever need to heat at any give time.  So I needed a smaller container to place within the removable pot.

Management had, at some point, picked up a 3-pack of small lidded glass jars.  The little jar has a capacity of 30z, a screw on lid and a chalkboard on the lid as a bonus (I can date the batch).  So now I had a secondary container that I could place in a water bath in the larger pot.


After a little thought I hit upon a plan.  The glass jar will thread into a 2″ diameter whole.  Just so happens I have a 2″ hole saw.  So step one was to remove the existing knob from the aluminum pot lid that came with the wax warmer and drill a 2″ hole in the center of the lid.  After a little cleanup, the jar threaded into place without any issue.



A little trial and error revealed that the best arrangement for suspending the jar into the water bath of the larger pot, was to invert the lid.  This created a better seal between the lid and the larger pot.  It also created a dish that should serve to help contain any mess.  I then reinstalled the original plastic knob onto the aluminum lid.





One other modification I made was to add a brush wipe to the glass jar.  I cut a length of copper electrical wire and removed the bare copper ground wire.  I then shaped the wire to fit down into the glass jar so that it created a wiping bar across the opening of the jar.  Supposedly copper has an anti microbial effect on the glue, at least there should be no adverse reactions on the glue as could be had with other metals.


The last thing I needed to do for this setup was to discover the heat setting on the warmer that generated a consistent glue temperature of ~145deg.  Basically I just added water to the pot and jar.  Then heated everything until a meat thermometer gave me the reading I wanted within the glass jar.  Marked that setting on the dial of the wax warmer and then verified with another heating cycle.

So for about $30 I have a faster heating, larger capacity hot hide glue setup.  The addition of lidded glass jar makes storing of unused glue in the refrigerator a little easier to get past management too.


Both the wax warmer and Lee Valley systems work perfectly well and are about the same cost, at least in the US.  I didn’t need this new system, but here we are.  Hopefully this will be of help to some of you who are wanting to make the change to, or experiment with, hot hide glue.

For those of you who are interested, my glue brush making technique also works just fine with a flat handle.


Greg Merritt

Categories: Hand Tools

Didn't weigh down Santa's sleigh much this year

Oregon Woodworker - Mon, 12/26/2016 - 9:19am
After a number of years, I have finally given in, thrown in the towel, surrendered, capitulated.  It's not that I ever doubted the consensus view that a high quality, small combination square is an essential tool for woodworkers, it was that I wasn't willing to pay the price of a really good one.

Two years ago, I thought I had outsmarted the marketplace.  I took my machinist's square to Sears and methodically went through their 6" combination squares until I found one that was exactly square.  I paid my $9 and went home, chortling to myself about what I clever fellow I am.  My smugness was crushed by experience for two reasons.  The blade was hard to read and it had a tendency to slip.  You had to be very careful or the measurement you thought you had set would become a different one.  This problem became more and more severe until this fall I couldn't secure the blade at all, both problems leading to highly irritating measurement errors.  Exasperated, I threw it away.

I decided to ask for a Starrett, choking as I did so.  They're $95.  For a 6" combination square!  Don't tell me to find a used one.  Tried that, couldn't.  I have no knowledge of what it takes to make a tool like this, but I really can't understand why they cost this much.  I think it may be not only that they are made in the US of very high quality materials but that there is a lot of hand work in the final machining of each square to achieve the level of accuracy they guarantee.  I definitely don't think this one will slip.  Starrett isn't the only manufacturer of high quality combination squares, but it is the one I am familiar with.

As bad as my Sears square was, it definitely taught me that a small combination square is an essential tool, one that would certainly make my short, short list. It's strength is its versatility.  It's the kind of tool that you almost want to carry around in your shop apron.

I have several other small squares.  I have the Veritas sliding square and it is better for some applications, particularly when you are making an "x" and "y" measurement at once.  I also have this Incra T-rule, very accurate but I almost never use it.  In the end, nothing beats a small combination square for all-around utility and accuracy.  I could easily live without the others.

I have one more small square that I couldn't live without, a 3" Starrett stainless steel machinist's square that I inherited from my father-in-law.  This little thing is so darn handy for doing things like checking an edge when I am jointing, checking my dovetails, etc.  I just looked and they cost $70 new.


Categories: Hand Tools

A little clamping on the side

Rainford Restorations - Mon, 12/26/2016 - 5:58am

Have you used your side clamps lately?  Wait, what are side clamps?

Close up of the side clampsClose up of the side clamps

Side clamps are a pair of adjustable wooden blocks that mount on the outside of a traditional continental workbench with one block mounted to the tail vise and one mounted to the fixed portion of the bench top. In this experiment the blocks are mounted to the bench via 3/8″ diameter, 6″ long threaded bolts and some shop made metal plates.


When building my Tage Frid inspired Scandinavian workbench I spent a lot of time looking at examples of Frid’s benches — some early extant examples in person, his Fine Woodworking article on his bench (FWW Issue #4, October 1975), the chapter in Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking Volume 3 and various online searches.

In the FWW issue #4 diagrams and text there was a very brief mention of a set of ‘side clamps’. I couldn’t find any photos of these clamps online and they didn’t seem to make it into the book version of the bench. I was curious if they were cut to save space or if in fact they didn’t turn out to be useful.

I decided to build my own version of these clamps based on that lone diagram and experiment with them.

Building a pair of side clamps:

Using some scrap hard maple left over from the workbench I made two 1.75″ thick, 3″ wide and 4.5″ long blocks. I planed them and rounded over the edges with a 1/8″ radius router bit.

Use a self centering doweling jig to start the 3/8" holesUse a self centering doweling jig to start the 3/8″ holes

Next up was drilling a 3/8″ diameter hole through the center of the block, the long way. I started off the drilling by using a self-centering doweling jig (see photo above), and went as far as the bit would let me drill into the block.  Then using that first hole as a guide I used a longer electrician’s style 3/8″ drill bit to drill the rest of they way through the block. (see photo below)

Use a long electrician's style 3/8" drill bit to finish the centered hole. Use a long electrician’s style 3/8″ drill bit to finish the centered hole.

With the woodworking complete, it was time do to some metal working to make a series of small plates that are used to affix the clamp blocks to the dog holes in the bench by way of the 3/8″ bolts. I bought some 1/8″ thick x 1″ wide zinc’ed steel bar at my local hardware store and cut them to 2-7/8″ long. (Note this is 1/2″ shorter than what Frid called for as I as felt 3-3/8″ would have too much slop/space. I also could not find 1/4″ thick bar stock, but think 1/8″ thick is still plenty strong for anything I plan to do with these clamps. Make sure to leave at least 1/4″ of metal on all side around the holes).  I cut the pieces to length using an abrasive cut off chop saw, but a hack saw could also get the job done.

Zinc'ed steel bar, cut to size, corners ground round and edge burs removedZinc’ed steel bar, cut to size, corners ground round and edge burs removed

I took the metal blanks over to the slow speed grinder and rounded over the corners and chamfered the edges a bit to remove any burs.

Drilling all four blanks at once. Drilling all four blanks at once.

Next up I stacked/ganged up all 4 pieces and drilled 3/8″ diameter holes at the drill press. The pieces were held together with some strong tape and held in place against my makeshift fence via the scrap block in the foreground of the above picture. Make sure to use some cutting oil and make sure you don’t overheat the metal nor your drill bit. Also use some scrap underneath the blanks to protect your drill press table.

Using a file to clean up and remaining burs and fine tune the work you did on the grinder Using a file to clean up and remaining burs and fine tune the work you did on the grinder

With the holes drilled out I took the metal blanks over to a vise wherein I made sure the bolts fit through the holes, cleaning things up with a rat-tail (round) file. I then used a flat mill file to clean up any roughness on the outside edges left from the work at the grinder.

Given my background as an engineer, and touch of OCD I decided to add some self adhesive cork to the sides of these metal plates that might come in contact with my bench top

Self-adhesive cork sheetsSelf-adhesive cork sheets

I cut the cork to rough size, affixed it to the plate and used a utility knife to cut off any excess around the edge and a 3/8″ drill bit to remove any waste inside the drilled out holes.

Use a utility knife to clean up the cork around the edges of the plate and the 3/8' drill bit to clean up and cork in the holesUse a utility knife to clean up the cork around the edges of the plate and the 3/8′ drill bit to clean up and cork in the holes

With the metalworking completed, it was time to install the nuts and bolts and try out the clamping blocks. One bolt goes through the top plate, the wood block, the bottom plate and is secured with a nut or five star knob. (I ordered some knobs from Rockler but at the time of this writing they’d didn’t arrive yet, once they come I’ll add some post script to show the clamps with easier to use knobs in place.) The other bolt goes through the top plate, the dog hole, the bottom plate and is secured with another nut.

Assembling a side clampAssembling a side clamp

Given the use of square dog holes on this bench, and the fact that that blocks are 1/2″ longer than the bench is thick, this allows the side clamps to pivot a few degrees in either direction. This gives you the ability to securely clamp some tapered or irregularly shaped pieces.

The blocks can be moved to different dog holes as needed or removed from the bench altogether. In testing these clamps on a few different items and shapes I found the blocks were surprisingly easy to use and held oversized items with ease.

Large objects are easily held between these side clampsLarge objects are easily held between these side clamps

The Verdict: (So far…)

It was a fun project to build and experiment with. These clamps are useful for specialized clamping needs, such as large items, re-working the edges of a drawer box, planing dovetails flush, and similar operations.

Do I think they will get used every day? No. Do I think they can do a few jobs that would be tougher to do on the bench-top secured via bench dog, hold fast, face or shoulder vise? Yes.

For the small amount of wood, metal and time it took to make these side clamps I think they were a nice addition to my workbench.

If you build some side clamps for your workbench, please share what you thought of them in the comments below.

Take care,
-Bill Rainford

P.S. If you’d liked to learn about the workbench featured in this post, please check out my related article in the February 2017 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine which can be found here.

Popular Woodworking February 2017 CoverPopular Woodworking February 2017 Cover


Filed under: featured, Lost Art Press, Popular Woodworking, Portfolio, Workshop Projects, Writing Tagged: featured, Go Go Go, Rainford Workbench, Side Clamps, Tage Frid, Tage Frid Workbench
Categories: General Woodworking

The Did It Their Way

The Furniture Record - Sun, 12/25/2016 - 10:29pm

Today’s lesson in freethinker’s woodworking come from the same auction as the last blog. It is contained in this Louis XVI Style Parquetry Inlaid C-Scroll Writing Desk:


This lot has sold for $600.

From the catalog:

Description:   Early 20th century, mixed wood inlays including kingwood, satinwood, and mahogany, a three quarter gallery surmounts the desk’s “C” scroll lid, interior with pull out writing slide with old tooled leather insert, with two small drawers with parquet, featuring an inlaid floral basket medallion above three side by side drawers with parquet inlays, on straight tapered legs, embellished with banded veneers, on brass cast feet.


Let’s look at this head on. It’s French, OK.

Nicely veneered on all surfaces.


The dovetailed carcass reads through the veneer.

What caught my eye and amused me though was the dovetails on the drawers. (You’re surprised by this?) But first an explainer about how dovetailed drawers as supposed to work.

Through dovetails were the first ones that most of us were taught to cut. They are most commonly used for carcass or box construction.


The tails of the dovetails extend through the pin board exposing end grain on both the pin and tail boards.

In half blind dovetails, typically used in drawer construction, the tails do not extend through the pin board usually stopping 2/3 to 3/4 of the way through. The technique presents a smooth, uninterrupted pin board face.


Half blind dovetails leave a clean drawer front or other furniture face.

Half blind dovetails are more challenging to cut in that the tail sockets can only be partially sawn and then chiseled out. It is not  unusual for some people to overcut the pin board on the inner face to make it easier to clean out the socket.

What these people did was to cut the pin board as if were a through dovetail and then just chop out a partial tail socket.


They can do this because there is a veneer covering the unexpected saw kerfs.


Another drawer showing the overcuts and veneer.

A thin veneer will not adequately cover a through dovetailed joint. In time, the wood movement will crack the veneer, or if well glued, cause ripples in the veneer telegraphing the dovetails.

I have seen a few examples of through dovetailed drawer boxes with veneers in excess of 1/8″, thick enough to conceal the tails. But not many.

This overcutting is an interesting compromise. The veneer is thick enough to conceal the saw kerf.

Being French, it also has the odd dovetails at the back of the drawer boxes:


Some claim they are cut this way to act as a rear drawer stop. I’m not so sure but don’t have a better explanation.


It’s A Good Day

Tico Vogt - Sun, 12/25/2016 - 12:18pm

A demo from 2005. Listen to Ray’s voice and have a good day!

Music I’d Like To Hear #121

Doug Berch - Sun, 12/25/2016 - 11:26am

Young lady with ukulele and banjo

Categories: Luthiery

Merry Christmas from Giant Cypress.Given that this is about...

Giant Cypress - Sun, 12/25/2016 - 3:18am

Merry Christmas from Giant Cypress.

Given that this is about Chinese food, this should cover any readers who are celebrating Hanukkah as well.

Cabinet Shelf Supports

orepass: Woodworking to Pass the Time - Sat, 12/24/2016 - 10:43am

One of the things that I find most fascinating about being a woodworker is the many differing techniques for accomplishing a task. As usual this Cabinet has a method for installing adjustable table shelves that I have not come across.

It consists of four saw toothed supports. You could make the supports from a couple of boards and then rip them to the correct width. I had parts from an old cabinet so I cut each support to the correct height and width than bolted pairs together. This allowed me to lay out saw and chop the saw tooth and end up with an exact pair. Once laid out it was a surprisingly quick process. I then drilled holes for the screws and attached them to the cabinet sides. I did have to remove the handle from my drill to get the hole placed correctly. The next job is to make the crosspieces which hold the shelves. You can see the one in the picture needed a little more care in measurement but it was a quick job and the adjustment works great.

img_2170 img_2169 img_2160
Until I came across Paul Seller’s hanging Tool Cabinet I had not seen his method for installing adjustable shelves. If you have different methods that are unique for shelf installation let me know.

Categories: Hand Tools


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