Jump to Navigation

Hand Tool Headlines

The Woodworking Blogs Aggregator

This "aggregator" collects all of the woodworking blogs I read every day - or try to anyway!  Enjoy!

Do you have a suggestion for a hand-tool woodworking blog you would like to see here?  Tell me via the CONTACT page.  Thanks!


Razor Sharp

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 04/09/2015 - 7:58am

At Christmas time I was lucky enough to get a few tool vouchers that enabled me to purchase some Japanese-style saws. I had some trials runs, but had not really put them to work on a project yet. Lucky for me, I got some shop time this weekend on the proviso I make something for the house, not my tool chest! That was fine by me, although I don’t like […]

The post Razor Sharp appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

IDrive online backup offer for fans of Matt’s Basement Workshop

Matt's Basement Workshop - Thu, 04/09/2015 - 7:30am

I’m so old school, my idea of a secure backup is relying on my stash of external hard drives and placing them on the high shelf out of reach.

backup drives

So much information on these two alone!

This has worked great for me for all these years but I’m starting to think I’m still leaving myself slightly vulnerable if one or all of my devices were to fail. I’m probably being a little paranoid, but it sure feels like when one goes, somehow all the others start giving me problems too.

And sadly, I’ve been caught without a backup of some of my most important files, pictures and videos more than once. I hate to admit it, but I love giving lip-service to the idea of backing up regularly and then giving a ton of excuses for why I didn’t when something goes wrong.

One option I’ve considered in the past, but have yet to give it a try is using an online backup service. There’s several currently on the market, but I was recently approached by the folks at IDrive to see if I’d be interested in offering visitors to Matt’s Basement Workshop a discount on their service in exchange for a little advertising.

Is it purely coincident I’m thinking about using a service exactly like what they’re offering? Probably! But considering they’re offering 75% off the first year of IDrive for only $14.88. I figure I might as well give it a try and share the savings with all of you.

To sign up with IDrive visit www.idrive.com/idrive/deals/pd/mattsbasementworkshop and signup today.

For 100% transparency, your signing up for IDrive does generate a commission for the show, so it’s yet again another way for you to help support the show while doing something good for yourself.

Help support the show – please visit our advertisers

Shop Woodworking - Blacksmithing for Woodworkers Collection

Categories: Hand Tools

Summer Workshops 2015

The Barn on White Run - Thu, 04/09/2015 - 6:27am

After long and careful consideration, I have concluded that I simply cannot host any workshops at The Barn this coming summer.  The combination of the Studley book and exhibit, brutal winter aftermath with a mountain of things to do on the homestead, projects that have languished in the studio, and the need to wrap-up Roubo on Furniture Making (almost twice as large as Roubo on Marquetry) leaves me with no time nor energy to dedicate to workshops at the barn.  I had planned on a historic finishing workshop in late June, but that will have to wait until net year.  In September I will host a week-long workbench build for my friends of the Professional Refinishers Group web forum.

This is not to say I will be entering my long anticipated hermit phase.  My presence and teaching elsewhere over the summer will be evident.  Check these out.

Henry O. Studley Tool Cabinet and Workbench exhibit – May 15-17, Cedar Rapids IA

Making New Finishes Look Old – Society of American Period Furniture Makers Mid-Year Conference, June 11-15, Knoxville TN

Gold Leaf and its AnalogsProfessional Refinisher’s Group Groopfest, June 24-26, Pontoon Beach IL

The Henry Studley Book and Exhibit (breakfast banquet address) and Roubo Parquetry (demo workshop) – Woodworking in America 2015, September 25-27, Kansas City MO


No Bad Wood.

Tico Vogt - Thu, 04/09/2015 - 6:08am

A few years ago I tried to look up information on wood craftsman Hank Gilpin, whose work and attitudes about wood and living a life of craft have always appealed to me. It turns out that he keeps a very low digital profile. This article about him, written by a former apprentice, gets us up to date and has a very good video.

6 Reasons Why You Should Try Traditional Woodworking

Highland Woodworking - Thu, 04/09/2015 - 6:00am

Have you ever tried traditional woodworking? If yes, you may think the process was way too long and boring, and asked yourself why you did that when you could have use power tools. Well I’m going to tell you 5 reasons I prefer it and why I think everyone that enjoys woodworking should try it out and discover the magical of hand tools.

1. The price: It is cheaper to buy hand tools than power tools, and you know it! You could have bought a $10 coping saw rather than a $500 band saw to do the same job. Same thing goes for the drill press, table saw, planer… I’ll let you calculate how many thousand bucks you could save or make if you sell your power tools…

2. The hand tools you buy are going to last a lifetime and even longer if you take care of them. Imagine your grandchildren using your hand plane to make their workbench! Owning such a heritage tool is a lot more inspiring than owning a machine that only last 10 years. And the skills you’ll acquire to maintain the edge of the tool or the tool in general just can’t be bought.

3. The exercise you get while using hand tools is also beneficial for you. You know the benefits of it and you know you need to do it, so why wouldn’t you include some in your hobby? Just try ripping a 4 x 2 x 6. Trust me; you won’t need to go to the gym if you do that all day long.

4. The noise! What do you prefer? The rhythmic sound of a hand saw or the loud noises of the table saw? You need to have a peaceful state of mind while working with wood so you don’t make mistakes, but the noises power tools make are just irritating, and if you don’t wear ear protection, you could do serious damage in the long run. Please, do yourself a favor and save your hearing!

5. Less power, so less injury. No one would like to lose a finger when they can avoid it, so why would you run such a risk? To save time of course! That’s why power tools were invented; to get the job done faster, but they come with their downsides…

6. Have you ever made something you were proud of, show it to your friends and just listen their compliments and admiration? You know that feeling and when you do everything by hand you feel it ten times more! What would you be the most proud of: A log cabin you made with a chainsaw in 2 weeks or a log cabin you made with an axe, saw, chisel and a gauge in 2 months? This is mainly why I’m still using only hand tools. Yes, it takes more time to do everything by hand, but the satisfaction of a completed project makes you forget it.

Again, the only downside of using hand tools is that it’s more time consuming than using power tools. But if you don’t sell your work, I don’t see any downsides to spending a little more time and getting the benefits of traditional woodworking.

The list goes on and I’m sure there are more reasons why traditional woodworking is better physically and mentally. I hope it was enough to convince you, and to motivate you to get started in traditional woodworking!

Justin has been woodworking since he’s 10 years old, and now, at 15 years old he aspires to make a living out of it. Having made multiple small and large projects from wooden spoons, to timber framed projects, he already carries quite a bit of knowledge.

The post 6 Reasons Why You Should Try Traditional Woodworking appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Measurement Layout

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 04/09/2015 - 5:27am
While working on a project for an upcoming issue of 360 Woodworking, I had plenty of dado layout work to do. As I walked through the process, I realized that I was biting an inch while using a steel rule – that technique is something that I used many years back when I worked in […]

WORK No. 160 - Published April 9, 1892

Work Magazine Reprint Project - Thu, 04/09/2015 - 4:00am

!function(d,s,id){var js,fjs=d.getElementsByTagName(s)[0],p=/^http:/.test(d.location)?'http':'https';if(!d.getElementById(id)){js=d.createElement(s);js.id=id;js.src=p+'://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js';fjs.parentNode.insertBefore(js,fjs);}}(document, 'script', 'twitter-wjs');

This week, there's a great article on "The Art of Staircasing," a promising first installment on the specula of the Newtonian Telescope, and more than a few remarks on the construction of an indexing plate for elliptical turning. But I know what you really want; what all Work readers secretly crave.

That's right. It's time to get your overmantel on. Again. In Work, no single idea has been proposed more strenuously to the readers than the notion that the wall above your mantle should be covered with something. Anything.

Lots of loyal readers know this to be true, but if you're new here are a few links to previous issues laden with overmantel. Click on them all for a trip down memory lane. I dare you.

No doubt more mentions could be found by anyone willing to comb through the "SHOP" section found among the back pages of each release. It's hardly the point though. I want to know why. Please submit your theories in the comments section.

I'm willing to concede that the fixation is merely a fad of fashion, but part of me wants to psychoanalyze the Victorians a little more savagely. For instance, If you've ever heard the (confoundingly hard to attribute) yarn that Victorians would often drape and cover the shapely legs of furniture in the name of modesty, you could formulate the hypothesis that the chimney stack and hearth masonry might be in some similar need of being dressed and concealed.












Disclaimer: Articles in Work describe materials and methods that would not be considered safe or advisable today. We are not responsible for the content of these magazines, and cannot take any responsibility for anyone attempting projects or procedures described therein.
The first issue of Work was published on March 23rd, 1889. The goal of this project is to release digital copies of the individual issues starting on the same date in 2012, effectively republishing the materials 123 years to the day from their original release.
The original printing was on thin, inexpensive paper. There are many cases of uneven inking and bleed-through from the page behind. Our copies of Work come from bound library volumes of these issues and are subject to unfavorable trimming, missing covers, etc. To minimize harm to these fragile volumes, we've undertaken the task of scanning the books ourselves. We do considerable post processing of the scans to make them clear but please bear with us if a margin is clipped too close, or a few words are unreadable. We would like to thank James Vasile and Karl Fogel for their help in supplying us with a book scanner and enabling this project to get off the ground.
You are welcome to download, print, and pretty much do what you want with the scan for your own personal purposes. Feel free to post a link or a copy on your blog or website. All we ask is a link back to the original project and this blog. We are not answering requests for commercial downloads or reprinting at this time.

• Click to Download Vol.4 - No. 160 •

.ig-b- { display: inline-block; }
.ig-b- img { visibility: hidden; }
.ig-b-:hover { background-position: 0 -60px; } .ig-b-:active { background-position: 0 -120px; }
.ig-b-v-24 { width: 137px; height: 24px; background: url(//badges.instagram.com/static/images/ig-badge-view-sprite-24.png) no-repeat 0 0; }
@media only screen and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 2), only screen and (min--moz-device-pixel-ratio: 2), only screen and (-o-min-device-pixel-ratio: 2 / 1), only screen and (min-device-pixel-ratio: 2), only screen and (min-resolution: 192dpi), only screen and (min-resolution: 2dppx) {
.ig-b-v-24 { background-image: url(//badges.instagram.com/static/images/ig-badge-view-sprite-24@2x.png); background-size: 160px 24px; } }Instagram
Categories: Hand Tools


goatboy's woodshop - Thu, 04/09/2015 - 3:53am

A while ago I posted about some beat up old planes I had been given, and how I was trying out a de-rusting method that I had not used before. I said that I would write a post about it, giving more details, and so, true to my word, here is that post.

The process is Electrolytic Rust Removal, or Electrolysis and it is a bit like reverse electro-plating. You will need to look elsewhere for a thorough scientific explanation of the process, but here is the basics. The apparatus consists of a sacrificial piece of metal (anode) and your rusty workpiece (cathode) suspended in an electrolytic solution and connected to a power source. It is vitally important that the anode be connected to the positive and the workpiece to the negative. An electric current is then passed between the anode and cathode through the solution, producing an exchange of ions between them, the practical upshot of which is that the rust flakes off the workpiece and the anodes corrode.

In order to try out the process for yourself, you will need:

  • an electrolytic solution (water and washing soda)
  • sacrificial anode (iron, steel or graphite – not stainless steel)
  • a power supply (a car battery charger)

20150402_160901The first step is to set up your sacrificial anodes and electrolyte. I used a plasterers bucket form the hardware store. I drilled drill some holes around the top of the bucket and poked some lengths of bent iron rebar down through the holes so that they hung down the inside of the bucket, leaving a small amount poking out at the top. I used 8 anodes in all, connected to each other with copper wire stripped from 6mm twin & earth cable. While one anode would do, it helps if the workpiece is surrounded by them, so more than one is preferable.

I then filled the bucket with 5 gallons of water and mixed in 5 tablespoons of washing soda, to make my electrolytic solution. My workpiece (cathode) – the plane body in this case – is then suspended in the solution, making sure that there is no physical contact between it and the anodes. To do this, I simply wrapped some more copper wire through the mouth of the plane and then looped the wire though a stout piece of wood. The wood sat on top of the bucket and the plane body hung below. I left a small length of the copper wire protruding so that it could be connected to the power supply.

Finally, it is time to hook up the power. The sacrificial anode is connected to the positive end, and the workpiece is connected to the negative end. THIS IS VITALLY IMPORTANT FOR THE PROCESS TO WORK. If they are connected the other way round then the workpiece will become the anode and it will become further corroded.

Once the power supply is switched on, you should notice bubbles forming in the solution almost immediately. After a little white, the water will become brown and disgusting, although this will not reduce its efficacy. How long you leave the system running obviously depends on how badly corroded the workpiece is, but it might be necessary to leave things running for a few hours to get the a decent result. I left mine running for two hours and this was the result:

Not to bad. You can see that where the plane body was submersed the rust has all gone, but where it was exposed, the rust remains. When the workpiece comes out of the solution it is coated with a black film that can easily be removed with water and a scouring pad. The bare iron is left with a patina that can be left or polished out, but the rust is all gone.

The great thing about this de-rusting method is that it is not caustic or aggressive in any way. The actual metal of the workpiece is not touched by it, only the corrosion is affected. Obviously, any pitting or other damage cause by the corrosion will remain, but the process will not touch or affect sound metal.

I should point out that I am not an expert in this process – this is, after all, the first time I have tried it. There are plenty of good resources online if you want to know more about the process before trying it yourself. However, I can attest that it does indeed work, and I will be doing more of it in the future.

Some other things to remember:
  • The solution emits a small amount of hydrogen, which is explosive, so it is best not to carry out the process in a confined space.
  • The anodes will corrode and the more corroded they get the less effective the system will be. It is worth renewing them when they get too corroded.
  • Apparently the solution will last almost indefinitely, but may need topping up with water now and again to counter water loss through evaporation. If you do dispose of it, and have use a steel or iron anode, the solution is relatively harmless and can be poured onto your lawn. The iron rich solution is apparently quite good for grass!
  • Stainless steel contains chromium, which can be toxic. A stainless steel anode will last a long time but will produce toxic by-products. DO NOT USE.
  • After removing the workpiece from the solution, it is important to clean and dry it immediately, before protecting it with oil or some kind of sealant. The workpiece will be prone to corrosion until it is sealed or protected in some way.

Filed under: Electrolysis Tagged: rust

which brand of waterstones do you recommend for sharpening good quality japanese chisels

Giant Cypress - Thu, 04/09/2015 - 3:18am

In terms of man-made waterstones, I have a set of Shapton Professionals: 1000, 5000, and 8000 grit, and am really happy with them. If I had to do this over, I think I would get the 15000 grit waterstone instead of the 8000 grit. At the time I bought these waterstones, the 15000 grit was considerably more expensive than the 8000 grit, but for whatever reason, they seem to be priced identically now.

I haven’t done a detailed head to head comparison of different brands of waterstones, and I don’t think I ever will. I have quickly tried different waterstones here and there, and I’m fairly confident in saying that any of the Japanese brands that are readily available in the U.S. will work well: King, Bester, Sigma, Ohishi, Naniwa, and any others I might have forgotten to mention.

ammonia test results are in......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 04/09/2015 - 1:27am
Before I get to the tests results I have to vent a bit. I know that this makes two days in a row but the one from yesterday was against the USPS. This one is against the pinheads who determine internet security at work. Another couple of blogs I read every morning at work have become unreadable. When I try to open them I get the "...unknown characterization.....yada, yada, yada..... access denied".

What does that mean exactly? Yesterday the content was fine when I opened it and now it's malware extraordinaire waiting to infect the whole network? Today's latest blog to be denied my reading pleasure brings the total up to 7. And 6 of them are from Word Press. I'm not sure if the Alaska Woodworker blog is from Word Press but it was the first one to be denied access. If it is a Word Press blog than that would make it 7 total. The odd thing is there are other Word Press blogs I can still open and peruse.

I normally don't read any blogs at night when I get home. There just isn't enough time to do that and all the other things I have my plate to get done. The most important one being writing tomorrow's blog. I catch up on them on the weekend and that is also when I watch all the inserted videos.

At work they took away the ability to watch any video content from any source - the 2 biggies are You Tube and Vimeo. Now they are whittling away at my blog roll. I think the next step will be my blog being blacklisted. I understand Network Security but this borderline ridiculous. These are woodworking blogs. Not hidden reservoirs of infectious bugs and other bad internet doo-doo things.

still together
 It appears the ammonia has no effect on the hide glue whatsoever. The only thing that the ammonia did was to make the smaller piece on the left a little darker. Letting the small piece soak in the ammonia caused a reaction with the red oak tannin.  But wiping it on and then wiping it off right away didn't allow for a reaction on the bigger piece.

glue squeeze out
I thought that the ammonia would do something to the squeeze out. This is still hard and cured instead of being my expected soft and squishy.

no effect here neither
bigger piece unaffected too
I tried my hardest to push this piece off with my fingers. It is glued on and it is staying. A couple of whacks with a mallet did nothing to loosen it neither.

ammonia did nothing to the bond hide glue makes
plane body I cleaned with ammonia yesterday
I took a sniff around the whole plane and there is no residual smell of the ammonia. I really scrubbed this hard trying to remove the black grunge on it. I fully expected this to smell of ammonia for a while. The wedge is odor free too. At least of ammonia but it has it's own peculiar odor.  And before you ask, I didn't rinse off the plane at all.  It was ammonia on, ammonia scrubbed, and then ammonia and grunge wiped off.

my recent rehabbed herd
The outside bottom left plane is the one I cleaned yesterday. Here you can see the huge difference in how black it's toe is compared to it's neighbors. I would like to get this cleaned up enough to read the Ohio Tool number stamped on it. They sure had an usual way of numbering their planes.

Another day has gone by and I still haven't started the table. We'll see what shakes out for thursday.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
The Mayflower brought the first group of colonists to America in 1620. What was the name of the second ship that brought the second group in December of 1621?
answer - the Fortune

Starting a New Chair Build

Toolerable - Thu, 04/09/2015 - 12:59am
I was pleased to find this book in my mailbox the other day.
I've been eagerly awaiting this book.
Having recently finished a Welsh stick chair, I am excited to build another one.  In fact, now I really need a couple of matching side chairs to set up with the walnut dining table where it sits.

My plan is to build a pair of side chairs in the Welsh stick chair style starting in June.  I have a couple of things going on at the moment, so I think setting a starting date in June is a good idea.  This will give me a chance to read this book ahead of time.  I imagine there are some choice morsels of wisdom in here I will be able to use on my chair.

I think it would be great to do a group chair build during this time.  If you have ever thought building a chair would be fun, or if you have bought the "Chairmaker's Notebook," or in any way have any interest in building a chair this summer, let's do it together!  I'm starting in June, but if you want to build a chair this summer, post some pictures on your blog, instagram, or just email them to me and I'll either post them here or post a link to your build.

Come on!  It'll be fun!

Here goes the very start of my build.  I plan to build two side chairs together.  I'm hoping that building two won't be much more difficult that building one. 

The heart of a chair is the seat.  Everything sprouts from the seat blank.

Last fall, Jonas had cut down a dead elm tree and cut the log up specifically to make chairs with.  With only three of us there to build chairs, there were plenty of extra elm chair blanks.  Jonas graciously allowed me to steal a few to bring back to my shop.

I pulled my three blanks out the other day for inspection.  For some reason, there is only one that stayed mostly flat.  One cupped a good bit, and the last cupped a whole lot.
Three two inch thick elm chair seat blanks.
Having built a chair from this material already, I know that this stuff is extremely strong.  Two inches thick is more than plenty for an elm seat blank, so I think the flat one and the middle one probably can be used just as they are.

The top one, however, is bent really bad right in the middle.  After a little inspection, I discovered that about half of this chair blank contains pith - the center of the tree rings.  This makes the chair blank unstable, and it is indeed along the pith line where the bowing is most severe.

I decided that the best way to deal with this blank is to saw it along the pith line, removing the pith, and glue it back together.  In fact, I might even be able to "un-cup" it a little. Hopefully, it will remain stable that way.

I think the reason these cupped so much is the log wasn't anywhere near dried all the way when we started the chairs last fall.  I think that the log had only been processed a few weeks beforehand. 

Now that these boards have had a few months to acclimate, they did what wood does - it moved.

Here is what I have done:

First, I marked a line along the pith line the best I could
This line goes from one side to the other along the pith - the center of the log.
Notice that this board still has live edges.  There is nothing on which to reference the cut.  This makes it ideal for hand tools.  There is nothing more difficult about this cut with a handsaw than there would be on a four-squared piece.  With machines this would be a little harder (although by no means impossible).
I clamped the blank up in my leg vice.  This will take a bit of care to finish the cut.
It was then just a matter of sawing to the line.  Hardwood this thick does take a bit of effort.  I just took it easy and tried not to force anything.  The cut only took about ten minutes.
Saw to the line.
After sawing about halfway through, I flipped the board in the vice and started from the other side.  When I got close, I flipped it sideways in the vice in order to have something stable to hold on to, and finished the cut.
Finished cut.  Not perfect, but it will clean up.
I decided to check the moisture level of the wood using my cheap ten dollar moisture meter I picked up at Aldi a while back.  I don't think this tool is really accurate enough to rely on, but it did tell me there was a big difference.  The readings showed 6% moisture on the exposed end grain, and 14% moisture in the center of the board on the fresh cut.

I think the best move now is to clean the saw marks with a plane and let this blank sit for a month or six weeks before I glue it back up.  Here is an opportunity to let the inside of the seat reach equilibrium with the humidity of my shop.

Who's in with the summer chair build?
Categories: Hand Tools

Visit the Blue Spruce Factory

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Wed, 04/08/2015 - 11:00pm


Today I got to tour the factory of Blue Spruce Toolworks in Sandy, Ore. I wrote about the details of the tour on my blog at Popular Woodworking Magazine. Check it out here.

— Christopher Schwarz

Filed under: Personal Favorites
Categories: Hand Tools

A Tour of the Blue Spruce Factory

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Wed, 04/08/2015 - 10:52pm

Some of my favorite tools come from Blue Spruce Toolworks outside Portland, Ore. I own three of the different mallets Dave Jeske makes, plus several of his fantastic chisels and, of course, one of his marking knives. I was one of Jeske’s early customers when he started making marking knives about 13 years ago and sold them on the Internet. At the time, toolmaking was a side gig that Jeske […]

The post A Tour of the Blue Spruce Factory appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

A Walnut in the Walnut

Wunder Woods - Wed, 04/08/2015 - 10:45pm

We were sanding some walnut lumber the other day in the shop, and look what we found. It’s a walnut in the walnut. How nutty! It looks like the walnut shell fell into a crotch in the tree and the tree grew around it. I am so glad to run into a foreign object that doesn’t ruin the equipment.

I've never seen this before. Usually it's a big chunk of metal.

I’ve never seen this before. Usually it’s a big chunk of metal.


Categories: General Woodworking

The Frame and Panel Chest Lid

The Workbench Diary - Wed, 04/08/2015 - 6:43pm

When I built my tool chest last year, I seriously considered opting for a one wide board top like the vast majority of chests I’ve seen. I'm used to them and the construction process is stupid easy. The major downside is that no board that wide would stay still through the changing seasons. I anticipated constantly battling the lid being too tight or too loose. Though typical in traditional chests, I think this would drive me nuts so I opted to follow Chris’s advice and make the lid in a frame and panel style. Yeah, it’s a little fancier than necessary but, dang, it’s a good idea.

Every year as the seasons change I get calls from people telling me their furniture is acting weird. Drawers are stuck, veneer is popping off, etc. The radical fluctuations of relative humidity in these times do a real job on wooden furniture. I was curious to see how much (if any) my chest lid would move into and out of winter. Guess how much movement there was? Absolutely positively none. The lid performed exactly the same (air-whooshing friction fit) every single day since I installed the hinges. Honestly, I was really surprised at howwell it worked.

I see a lot of wide boards warp and shrink in the objects in my studio. It’s par for the course. I appreciate the simplicity of a one board top but sometimes you just got stop friggin around and opt for deluxe. If you’re looking for a recommendation about whether you should invest the time in a frame and panel lid, you now know what I’ll say.
Categories: Hand Tools

Jigsaw Jeopardy

McGlynn On Making - Wed, 04/08/2015 - 5:47pm

Truth be told, I’m not a fan of jigsaw puzzles.

Nevertheless, I just spent an hour after work sorting through a pile of little veneer shapes from this (and another tray of bits)

Too many pieces.  Since I'm stack cutting using the "Boulle" method I have 7 of each part (background, 3 greens, 3 flower colors) plus the front and back "waster" veneers from the packet.

Too many pieces. Since I’m stack cutting using the “Boulle” method I have 7 of each part (background, 3 greens, 3 flower colors) plus the front and back “waster” veneers from the packet.

To start assembling the marquetry picture I’m working on.  I’m assembling it onto low-tack shelf paper.  Once I have the colors all composed, I’ll remove the parts a few at a time and sand shade them.

It only seems tedious when you’re doing it…

Assembly so far.  I'm having trouble locating a couple of small leaves...I'll move on to the remaining two flowers and maybe they will turn up.

Assembly so far. I’m having trouble locating a couple of small leaves…I’ll move on to the remaining two flowers and maybe they will turn up.

Even with the mix of colors, it still looks flat without sand shading.  But first I have to find all of the little bits!

Close up of one flower, this is about the size of a silver dollar.

Close up of one flower, this is about the size of a silver dollar.

Categories: General Woodworking

Picture This XLVII

Pegs and 'Tails - Wed, 04/08/2015 - 4:07pm
I was originally going to work this image into an April Fool’s post as ‘the Ronald McDonald cabinet’, but thought better of it. One of a pair of cocus cabinets-on-stands, circa 1660-5. (Royal Collection Trust) The cocus oyster-veneered cabinets are … Continue reading
Categories: Hand Tools

Skottbukkar frå Bortisu i Storlidalen

Norsk Skottbenk Union - Wed, 04/08/2015 - 1:34pm

Bortistu gjestegård har flere gamle bygninger, og i en av de er det et snekkerloft. Der finnes mye forskjellig verktøy og lent bedagelig inntil en høvelbenk står det også ett par forseggjorte skottbukker uten langbord. Bukkene antar jeg er laget tidlig på 1900-tallet, men det gjenstår for meg å få kontakt med den personen som muligens vet noe mer om de.

Langbordene har vært gradet inn i beinet og beina er merket fra I til IIII, slik at de kommer på samme plass igjen når benken er blitt demontert. Det bevegelige langbordet har føringsstenger som sørger for at det glir stødig frem og tilbake. Strammingen skjer ved hjelp av skruene.

Dette er bare en smakebit. Kommer tilbake med mer hvis jeg kommer over mer informasjon om disse bukkene.

To komplette, fint utførte bukker til skottbenk, uten langbord. Skruen er låst til det bevegelige beinet med en kile så beinet blir med på returen. Bukken har høyde rundt 30". Langbordene står på avsatsen i beina. Føringsstengene gir en stødig og jevn gange uten at det bevegelige beinet skjevstilles ved fastspenning av smalt emne.
Categories: Hand Tools

Apprenticing simplicity – keep it simple

Paul Sellers - Wed, 04/08/2015 - 1:33pm

There is no doubt Sam has developed skills quickly over the 30 or so days he’s been here. This week he’ll finish making his first workbench and he has his top laminated up, planed, cut to length and ready to go on the completed leg frames. P1050532All the time he meets any and all issues head on and seems undaunted. Because he first learned in our nine-day foundational course I have had nothing to undo in him. So far, too, he’s swept through a series of projects and tomorrow the bench should well stand on four legs. He’s gone for a near 6 footer by 30” wide top. Sam’s 5’10” he has had three heights to test out how he feels over 40 days overall that he’s been woodworking with us. For the first ten days he worked between two benches, one at 38” and the other 46”. Since then he has worked between 38” and 39 1/2”, but mostly he seems to be at 39 1/2”. He and I are the same height.P1050526

You know, I have apprenticed so many men and women this way and it really has worked for them and, in terms of my vision for artisan training, it works for me too.

Much of the time what I like is how incomparable  the apprentices have been since the 80’s when I started apprenticing people. No two are the same. I can remember every personality and watching them develop as they overcame struggles. I remember the laughs and the tears and the losses and the victories too. Living life off the conveyor belts means growing a lifestyle, living a lifestyle, finding greater contentment with less.

The post Apprenticing simplicity – keep it simple appeared first on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Sketching Exercises

360 WoodWorking - Wed, 04/08/2015 - 1:26pm
In preparation for an upcoming article on shell carving, I realized that I suggest a fair amount of freehand sketching. In the past, suggestions of that sort usually elicit groans and complaints from students and apprentices about how they can’t draw. Now, I’m not asking for pencil drawings of the Mona Lisa. I’m talking about some basic […]


Subscribe to Norse Woodsmith aggregator

by Dr. Radut