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Watch Guy Dunlap build our Hi Vise in this excellent video from our friends at Highland Woodworking.
Hi Vises are in stock and ready to ship.
Every step of making this dugout chair has been a little weird. Fastening its seat in place was no different. After cutting the seat to shape using using the help of ticking sticks, I rasped the rim of the seat until I could wedge it inside the trunk and get it level. I usually use a 6” spirit level for this task, but I left it at home. So I […]
Some folks think of hand planes as artifacts. Some consider them cute antiques. Others have the best of intentions to use them on a project some day.
I consider my hand planes to be time savers. They cut out sanding chores, they shave impossibly thin shavings so I can fit joints together perfectly, they smooth and flatten. I would be lost without my kit of hand planes. Their roles in the shop has increased even as my number of machines have. They can do chores that machines cannot.
Saturday we host another workshop at the Studio on Handplanes: Tuning and Using. Join us for the quiet satisfaction of tuning and then using a hand plane. Can’t beat it.
I Laugh in the Face of Tapered Compound Angled Mortises
The process of boring the tapered mortises for the legs is a lot simpler once you just do it. You will hear lots of talk about rake and splay angles and resultant angles and sight lines. Some internet searching will yield any number of results on how to bore the angles using mirrors and lasers and by standing on one leg after 3PM on a Tuesday. The way I was taught during my first Windsor chair was much less angles and precision, and mostly eyeball and feeling my way through it. Even today with so much great instruction on the subject that didn’t exist 10 years ago I still find Windsor construction to be a very organic and forgiving style of construction.
I say all of this to urge you to suspend the questions for a minute and just bore some holes. Using the seat pattern that Peter Galbert so helpfully provided we know the location of the sight lines, the location of the holes, and the resultant angles. So grab a bevel gauge and an auger bit and go to it. Remember that the reamer can correct a lot of disparity that may result while you bore your holes.
Reaming Tip Not Covered in the VideoI neglected to talk about this in the video and frankly I got lucky when my workbench intervened and stopped my reamer from going any deeper. Remember that while you are reaming that you do want to maintain the diameter of the hole on top of the seat. The tenons have been rounded down to a minimum diameter of 1/2″
but if you keep pushing the reamer will widen the hole all the way through and you will have to drive your legs in so far that you will shorten the legs unnecessarily. So keep an eye on the depth of the reamer and if appropriate but a stop block underneath your seat to ensure you don’t widen the holes on the top of the seat too much.
Next Live Broadcast
12 PM on Saturday 11/4/17
I carve the seat so that it delicately cradles my posterior
Octagonal Legs?Don’t want turned legs? How about tapered octagonal legs often found in Welsh Stick Chairs?
One of the first joints I learned to cut during my City & Guilds of London training was the T-bridle, which we used for the leg-to-rail connection on a modern end table, one of the projects that made up the curriculum. Like other variants of the bridle joint, this one is often used for table bases and benches. You can see an especially elegant example of this joint here. The T-bridle […]
|quiet time work|
|walnut banding is solid|
|very snug fit|
|marked the connection|
|tight on the left and some daylight on the right|
|rounded over the lid banding|
|rounded over the top of the lid|
|first knob choice|
|3 more knob choices|
|found some feet|
|going to make a walnut handle|
|fixing the Disston 6" square|
|half laps on the legs done|
|I had to plane one leg square, the other one was sawn square|
|here you can see the tilt in it|
|I wanted parallel|
|had to make a pit stop|
|got my point back|
|decided to sharpen the iron on my new blockplane|
|10 strokes on the 80 grit runway|
|got a hump|
|I'll keep it in here for now|
|replacements for the hasp|
Update: Found a solid brass one from House of Antique Hardware and I almost skipped on it. S/H was $3 less than the sash lift.
|the back for the plumbline stick|
What is hexakosioihexekontahexaphobia?
answer - a fear of the number 666
We’ve just posted a new video at Crucible Tool’s blog on how to create two additional (and useful) tip shapes for your dividers. One tip is designed specifically for scribing arcs. The other is for cutting inlay or recesses.
While we show these tips on our Improved Pattern Dividers, they can be created on any pair of dividers.
Also in the short video, Raney demonstrates a down-and-dirty way to harden and temper the tips with a torch.
— Christopher Schwarz
Filed under: Crucible Tool, Uncategorized
Our printing plant is in the final stages of work on “Carving the Acanthus Leaf” by Mary May. And, as always, our books are a creative struggle to the end.
This week we’ve been working on the “diestamp,” the debossed image on the inside of the dust jacket. We take great pains with our diestamps because they will live on longer than our dustjackets. (If you want to see my favorite diestamp, check out the one for “Calvin Cobb – Radio Woodworker!” and see if you can figure out the Easter egg.)
Diestamps are old technology. And though many printing plants can produce amazing covers with holograms, laser cutouts and unusual leather finishes, getting a diestamp with fine detail is a struggle. Almost every time I send our diestamp to the nice people at our prepress service, I am sure they smack their collective foreheads.
Their response is usually: I don’t think we can hold that level of detail without the image blurring.
To their credit, they are willing to try different approaches. Lately, we’ve been using a stamp made from magnesium and some different foils to see if we can achieve the fine lines shown in the samples above. In this case, we found the correct combination of a magnesium die and a cream foil that gave us the effect we’re looking for.
With the diestamp complete, our job is over. It’s up to the printing plant to bring all the different parts – the book block, boards, endsheets, cover cloth and dustjacket – together to complete the book. We haven’t been told when the book will ship, but history suggests it will be in within the next three weeks.
— Christopher Schwarz
Filed under: Carve the Acanthus with Mary May, Uncategorized
Many woodworkers who focus attention on period reproductions “read” the images in books and pieces in museums to discover to what furniture tells them. Designs sometimes clue them in as to what period of furniture history the pieces were built. (It’s not always clear-cut because no furniture periods ended exactly on a Tuesday with a new period beginning on Wednesday.) It’s possible to learn in what area of the country pieces were built if they read the materials used in construction.
Finally it’s finished, all the articles completed, edited over and over again. This was a big project for me as the moulding planes article was a toughie to write about. I needed to provide enough description without putting you to sleep and make it easy enough to follow. I think I have accomplished both and I believe you will be able to make any h&r using a simpler method than the traditional British and American approach. I have covered many aspects of the build and the reasoning behind the numbering system.
I’m sorry it took so long, but I think you will agree it was worth the wait.
As you can see I’ve also made some minor changes. Hope you like it.
As always I would like to thank Matt McGrane our magazine’s contributing editor. I would be lost without him.
Issue III release date is on Saturday 4th November 2017.
Yes, it is free
But getting back to the rut I seem to have fallen into with saturday shop days. Maybe I should just go with the flow on this and just accept getting to the shop after lunch isn't too bad. I can be a wee bit nutso and OCD rolled together with this being on a time schedule. Coming home and vegging after OT and hitting the shop after lunch isn't going to stop the sun from rising or setting. Once got to the shop and started working on the walnut banding on the lid, the juices started to warm up and I started a left field project.
|mitering the lid|
Now I start by clamping one piece in place. The fit on that side doesn't matter. This first piece is only used to set and mark the second one.
|my setting line|
|marking the first piece to be glued down|
|I'll shave this until the knife line is barely visible.|
|I'm going to try this glue|
|two sides glued on|
|one of my left field projects|
I got the back long piece cut out and I had to stop. The workbench is being use to do the lid so I couldn't plane and work the 5/4 stock. I'll pick this one back up tomorrow.
|it's been an hour|
I already bought a plumb bob that looks a lot like the one in my drawing. It is very difficult to find one of these that don't cost a boatload of dollars. Since plumb bobs were replaced with lasers and other electronic gadgets they have become collectibles.
|a scrap of pine saw in two for the legs|
|a piece of pine from this board will be the horizontal leg|
|eyeballed an angle|
|the more I use this saw, the more I'm liking it|
|didn't have much to true up|
|less than one frog hair proud|
|ubiquitous blurry pic|
|tenon plane to the rescue|
|closed it up a lot|
|ancient tools deserve to be glued with an ancient glue|
|that is a good joint line|
|did just as well on this side too|
|last strip glued on|
|a hasp or a handle|
What do the letters in CAPTCHA stand for?
answer - completely automated public truing test to tell computers and humans apart
Ben was one of the six students who took my live-edge Columbus day weekend class at Snow Farm. A newcomer into woodworking, motivated and eager to learn, he asked me to help him design and build a side table for his Boston apartment. Feeling that woodworking is going to be more than just a weekend workshop experience, but rather a long-lasting hobby, he invested in a good quality hand plane […]
The post Live Edge Class at Snow Farm, Massachusetts – Part 2 Ben’s Table appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.
Actually it is a project that I have considered for some time: A new sawbench.
I made a sawbench something like 8 years ago, and it is one of the most used pieces of equipment I have in the shop. A thing that I have thought would be useful was if I could use a sawbench for my dowel plates. That way I didn't have to mess around on the top of the workbench, to make sure that a hole for one of the dogs was straight below the hole in the dowel plate.
Also the stretchers for the legs would be a perfect little test subject for my new chain mortiser. And with Asger and Gustav in the shop, I didn't have any room for building the staircase which meant that it was perfectly OK in my mind to start another project.
The first bench I made was made exactly to the measurements outlined in Woodworking Magazine.
This time I decided that it might not cause the world economy to collapse, if I decided to make a few alterations to the design.
So I made the top thicker, wider and a little bit longer than on the original. I stayed with the same height, and also the same angle of splay on the legs.
This time I used larch for legs and stretchers, and a piece of Sitka spruce for the top that I milled long time ago.
The tenons of the stretchers are drawbored and wedged. The top is secured with dowels that I tried to drawbore as well. I did that so that the dowels will hold the top to close to the notch in the top of the legs.
Below the top there are a couple of reinforcements glued and screwed to the legs.
I used a chisel and a router plane to make a recess for the dowel plates. I chose not to make it the same depth as the plates, because it is easier to remove the plates when there is a bit protruding through the top like it is now.
A small piece of elm was cut and planed to fit into the recess while not in use for the dowel plates.
Klaus and I are sprending a workshop weekend. I learn a lot I want (and need) to do myself.
Eony after Klau' special treatments. I like the dul look of this stage. Calls for experiments.
Marking with with color.
Homework for me. The electrical coping saw is in my shop rather long an this is no work for the bandsaw.
Shavings from thicknessing - with a #6
Späne vom Bohren.
It always starts with a design Digital woodworking uses digitally controlled tools in your workshop as an addition to hybrid and handtools. Most often this means owning and operating a CNC and learning to use CAD programs. For many, committing to a CNC is a big step financially, so here are some thoughts on how to get started with digital woodworking. Here’s the thing, you can mine a nice chunk […]
The post Getting Started with Digital Woodworking — Part One appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.
|got surprise here - Miles's ruler is on top and mine is on the bottom|
|another difference in the size (width)|
|some screwdrivers for Miles|
|cocked upwards on the right|
|flipped the lid 180 and still higher on the right|
|I don't think it's the lid|
|right end of the banding is higher than the left|
|my lowest spot|
|little bit of a gap on the right|
|lid flipped 180|
|four sides and lid planed and cleaned up|
|flushed the top and bottom|
|trying out my miter guide|
|beveled 3 sides|
|won't make it|
|sawed and planed a backing strip for the miters|
|the original long strips|
|my last two|
|I'll do the lid banding tomorrow|
What was the number of the last Apollo mission to the moon in 1972?
answer - Apollo 17
Slightly harder twat…
…And the iron’s sticking half inch out of the sole of the plane.
Wooden planes look good.
They are good.
But they ain’t half got awkward sod written all over them.
Since hand tools became a thing again, folk have been really struggling with the setting of wooden planes.
Nine molding planes to add to my H. E. Mitchell collection.
A 7/8" Rebate plane...
Five assorted bead planes made at assorted times, two of which I have, but not in as good of shape as these, and one with missing boxwood which I can use for its parts...
None are matching, other than having been made by my great grandfather's cousin. The were made at difference dates, given the different the maker's marks, but they are nice, clean looking planes.
Opening that package was like Christmas all over again.