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Wrapping Up the LC Workbench

The Barn on White Run - Tue, 08/01/2017 - 6:13am

A couple months ago I blogged about building a pair of petite Roubo workbenches (18″ x 64″ tops) for my booth at Handworks in Amana IA, with one of them being ultimately destined for my colleagues in the Rare Book Conservation lab of the Library of Congress.  I’d taught a two-day workshop on making book boards by hand, an event that was simultaneous delightful and frustrating.  Delightful because the staff there was congenial, skilled, and highly motivated.  Frustrating because they did not own a workbench worth lighting on fire.  I vowed to rectify that situation, and now have.

 

With the writing desk project completion drawing nigh I was able to take a few hours to get the LC bench assembled, trued, and tarted up.  The former was straightforward, as I drove home the legs in their twin sockets with a sledge.  They were so snug I did not bother with glue, I simply pinned them in place with 4″ screws and wedged any spaces.   The top surface needed only a few minutes of flattening, first with a #5 set up as a fore plane, followed by a freshly sharpened #7, and concluding with cross-hatching with a toothing plane.  The stretchers and shelf were equally simple, screwed or toe-nailed in place.

The “tartification” came in the guise of a modified vintage leg vise I had in my inventory.  Given the mundane nature of the original, probably a late-19th Century unit I picked up who knows where, I felt some enhancing was in order.  The barrel head of the original was entirely uninspiring, simply inappropriate for the new setting and the artifacts it was to be part of.

I gave it some new life in its contour, and inset a large mother-of-pearl button at its center.  Just because I could.

Not to abandon the foot of the movable jaw, I spent a few minutes with a saw and a file to give it a bit of pizzazz also.

My final flourishes were a double planing stop attached to the end of the top and some sharkskin pads for the top  of the vise.

It gets delivered in a few days, and I hope they enjoy using it as much as I did in making it.

PWM Baseball Caps – Limited Edition

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 08/01/2017 - 5:51am

My PWM baseball cap has already seen heavy use – it’s my go-to hair-containment method while working in the shop and on my house (and given the state of my home and large number of projects to go, I’d best get another cap or three…). We have a limited number of these caps available through ShopWoodworking.com ($12). They’re 100-percent cotton, slate blue (my favorite color…so yes, I picked it) and […]

The post PWM Baseball Caps – Limited Edition appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

last day off.......

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 08/01/2017 - 3:15am
I took a few days off from work to give me a long weekend. Today was the last one and I had big plans for today. Unfortunately those plans were like mice and men and I got nothing done.  I've been sleeping later in the mornings and after lunch I've been fighting to stay awake and not nap. I think I may have to do another one of these long weekends again. Doing that on the weekend I get the wood for my new workbench sounds good. My brother-in-law has a van I can borrow and I won't have to worry about the weather.

#2 Stanley
This plane didn't have the right washers for the frog screws when I got it. I thought I hadn't changed out them yet because I have 4 of them in the goodie bag. I thought I should only have two, so I checked the #2.

got the right washer
I don't remember doing this but I'll take it. I now have two sets of extra washers.

sharpening day
I was only going to do the hand routers but I needed the #7 later for the door. The 4 1/2 was leaving ridges so it had a chip on the edge and #8 didn't plane the end grain on the panels that well.  I did 8 tools today.

the #7 had a chip too
I had remove a big chip on the 80 grit runway.

how I tell what has been done
The irons waiting to be sharpened I leave together I didn't sharpen them in order R/L or L/R. I do the smallest irons first and the biggest one last. If I had kept at this it would have taken me about an hour. With a couple of breaks and numerous yawning bouts, it took me until after lunchtime. I still had to sharpen the #8 then. I got all the tools stropped, cleaned, oiled, and road tested by 1400.

I have a drawer with extra irons for all these planes. I got them for two purposes. One is to have a spare iron or two. Secondly it is to have an iron ready to go that I can swap out while I am working. This way I won't have to stop and sharpen and I can get right back to work.

What I don't want is to get in the habit of taking a dull iron out of a plane and grabbing a sharp one from the drawer if I'm not working on something.  I think that I should rotate them out and I'll do that the next time I sharpen an iron. I'll have to get in the habit of taking a sharp one out and putting a sharp back in it's place.

time to start working on the door
I was upstairs dozing off at my desk and I got up and came down to the shop. I had thought that I would get the door done and painted today. That didn't happen sports fans.

putting a 36" clamp in or out of the clamp rack
I have put/take the 36" clamps in/from the rack at an angle. My ceilings are low so I can't go straight up.

it's a tight fit
The clamp slides along until it gets to it's slot and then I turn it 90° to put it up. I do the reverse to take one out. It's a bit of a PITA but acceptable.  I made it this tight because I didn't want this to stick out from the wall too far.  There isn't that much room between the wall and the end of the workbench.

thought of  putting the bottom one on hinges
 I liked this idea as it would make it easier to take clamps out and put them back. But I wanted this up and functional so I skipped the hinge idea. I wouldn't be able to use this on this clamp bar as I don't think it is stiff enough. With the bar clamp bar open it would have to support a 24" arm plus the weight of the clamps. The clamps are aluminum and light but the bar is far from the hinge point and would need some additional support.

I want to do another clamp rack here with hinged clamp bars
sawing off the tenon overhang
sawed off and flushed the dowels
started flushing with the center rail
the back of the door
The center stile is flush at the top and bottom. The rails are proud of the stiles and that is all I have to flush on this side.

sawed the horns off, I'll flush them later
one of the better looking tenon mortise joints
the best of the 4
#3 M/T - the wedges expanded in all of the M/T
the last M/T
I thought I had more meat on the outside. Next time I'll make the haunch at least 3/8".

center stile M/T
the other center stile M/T
This was the first center stile tenon I trimmed and I butchered it good. It was because of this fit that I decided to use pins and to wedge the tenons. The door is being painted and all the nooks and crannies will be filled with Durhams putty first. I think I may fill some of the bigger gaps with epoxy like this one.

sometimes you get lucky
The door isn't twisted which surprised me. I was expecting some and I had none.

the cabinet front is not twisted neither
I have two things going in my favor here. The door is flat and the cabinet face the door will lay on is flat too.

the door is an 1/8" out of square
I planed the hinge side edge flat, straight, and square. This will be my reference for hanging the door on the cabinet. The door is about a 1/8" wider than the width and an 1" longer than the top to bottom length.

the door is aligned on the hinge side
The top of the door is off on the opposite side an 1/8".

the bottom with lots of overhang
The bottom overhang is staying. I did this because I thought I would use the bottom of the door to open and close it sans a knob/handle. If I trim the bottom of it to match the cabinet, I'll saw into the M/T and expose them on both sides.

problem at the top
The top I have to square up. I can't have the top not aligned with the top of the cabinet. It would stick out like a beacon.  This end of the door is the low spot for squaring. I have start almost right at the bottom of the haunch and taper up going to the other end. The square line ends at the top of the opposite corner.

I set the door aside for now while I decide how to best square up the top of it.

#4 plane for my grandson
Got the last coat of paint on this. Just have to shine it back it up and road test it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many US Presidents are buried in Arlington National Cemetery?
answer - only two, Kennedy and Taft

CBN wheel for the Tormek grinder

Heartwood: Woodworking by Rob Porcaro - Mon, 07/31/2017 - 10:42pm
Woodturner's Wonders CBN wheel for Tormek
I was pretty much content with my Tormek for grinding tools for 16 years. It sacrificed speed for relaxed and reliable grinding with excellent jigs, especially the SE-77. Though that tradeoff suits me, I like woodworking a lot more than sharpening, so a faster pace at the grindstone was always welcome. Thus I was drawn […] 0
Categories: Hand Tools

Issue Three Pre-orders Open!

The Mortise & Tenon Magazine Blog - Mon, 07/31/2017 - 9:01pm
The moment has come at last!

(with an option to “Auto-renew” each year)

OR

you can pre-order Issue 3 by itself HERE.
 
Also check out our brand-new eBook!
Categories: Hand Tools

Tools that changed small-shop woodworking

Heartwood: Woodworking by Rob Porcaro - Mon, 07/31/2017 - 8:39pm
small woodworking shop
Here’s a question just for fun. In the past 30-40 years, which advance in tooling has made the biggest practical change in small shop furniture making? An individual tool, a type of tool, or a major upgrade in a tool category, hand or power, all qualify. The answer will depend on the definition of “small […] 0
Categories: Hand Tools

Done With Dividers? Apparently Not

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Mon, 07/31/2017 - 4:53pm

dividers_rag_IMG_8602

Making dividers – hundreds and hundreds of them – has been our obsession most of this year.

As a result, we at Crucible Tool have been burning through sanding belts. We have become quite good at precision reaming (stop snickering, or we’ll give you a taste of it). And we have become connoisseurs of legs that spread apart – without any slop – in the grip of a firm hand (again, you don’t want a piece of this).

As a result, since early June, we have been able to keep up with orders for the dividers in the crucibletool.com store. That has been mostly due to the thankless detail work from John and Raney (really, I just eat bonbons all day and bark orders).

hoffman_dividers_IMG_8598

John Hoffman – assembling and inspecting the dividers.

So if you have been itching to own a pair, we now have plenty. They are $187, which includes domestic shipping. Yes, we are working on getting them into the markets in Canada, the UK and Europe.

Thanks to everyone who has supported Crucible Tool so far this year. We are now working on our fourth tool, which we hope to release before the end of 2017. In the meantime, we have plenty of holdfasts, design curves and dividers boxed up and ready for immediate delivery.

— Christopher Schwarz


Filed under: Crucible Tool, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Krenov Foundation Professional Development Award

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 07/31/2017 - 1:43pm

Professionals in the field of fine woodworking, with a minimum of four years of experience, are invited to apply for a $2,500 grant from the Krenov Foundation to use for a stint as an artist-in-residence or visiting scholar or faculty collaborator at a nationally recognized woodworking school or craft center. Applications are available at thekrenovfoundation.org/professionaldevelopmentaward, and must be submitted along with a statement of purpose, resume, financial forms, digital photographs of […]

The post Krenov Foundation Professional Development Award appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Rosin – Your Sticky Friend in the Workshop

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Mon, 07/31/2017 - 10:28am

Woodworkers use waxes (and other things) to decrease friction, but what about when we want to increase friction? Lately I’ve been trying inexpensive rosin – intended for the bows of stringed instruments – with excellent results. Rosin is a byproduct of heating tree sap to make turpentine or a variety of other products and has a variety of uses in industry and the arts – everything from ballet dancers to […]

The post Rosin – Your Sticky Friend in the Workshop appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

Life on Earth on Twitter

Giant Cypress - Mon, 07/31/2017 - 7:48am
Life on Earth on Twitter:

Japanese woodworking does have its downsides.

Collecting Sawdust – Tips from Sticks in the Mud – August 2017 – Tip #2

Highland Woodworking - Mon, 07/31/2017 - 7:00am

No Southern-fried Southern boy wants to be called a Yankee, but we share the characteristics of shrewdness and thrift. Thus, each month we include a money-saving tip. It’s OK if you call me “cheap.

A few days ago I was looking for a big piece of paper to trace an outline on. I didn’t have any paper that big, so I found some 8 x 10 advertising sheets that came with a product I’d ordered, taped them together and that worked fine. When I’m putting newspaper into a cage at work, if I run across the funny papers, I’m inclined to stop and read a few strips before moving on. When I picked up these sheets, I couldn’t help noticing that a company was selling sawdust for you to use to color your glue and epoxy.

Don’t fall for that! You’re already making sawdust just about every time you’re in the shop. All you have to do is collect it. Here’s how I do it.

First, I get a zipper-locking bag. No, not a brand new one! You do have a collection of free used bags, or bags that came in tools or parts that you saved, don’t you? Using a Magic Marker, label one red oak, one white pine, redwood, cedar, etc. Before you start collecting for your collection, vacuum the dust bag on your random orbit or vibrating sander. It doesn’t have to be sterile, you just don’t want a contrasting color of sawdust diluting your specimens.

Clean the bag on your sander thoroughly before beginning to collect for sanding dust to use for future coloring.

Sand normally.

Continuing to wear your dust mask, pour the sanding dust into the plastic bag.

Don’t be wasting your woodworking budget on Ziploc bags…find a used one in your collection.

The natural question arises, “Why not just take the dust from the vacuum or dust extractor?” That might work, if you use your dust extractor for nothing but sanding. But, if you’re like me, and you clean your shop with it, too, there is a high likelihood of “stuff” being in the mix you wouldn’t want on your project.

Be prepared to do some experimentation prior to using sanding dust on a project. For example, when you add this, or any other foreign material into epoxy, it changes the curing behavior, and you don’t want surprises on an actual project.

I like coloring epoxy, but there are challenges to determining how the coloring, the wood and the epoxy will all gang up against you. Some wood, for example, makes epoxy produce more bubbles. Some additives make the epoxy cure very rapidly.

Jim Randolph is a veterinarian in Long Beach, Mississippi. His earlier careers as lawn mower, dairy farmer, automobile mechanic, microwave communications electronics instructor and journeyman carpenter all influence his approach to woodworking. His favorite projects are furniture built for his wife, Brenda, and for their children and grandchildren. His and Brenda’s home, nicknamed Sticks-In-The-Mud, is built on pilings (sticks) near the wetlands (mud) on a bayou off Jourdan River. His shop is in the lower level of their home.Questions and comments on woodworking may be written below in the comments section. Questions about pet care should be directed to his blog on pet care, www.MyPetsDoctor.com. We regret that, because of high volume, not all inquiries can be answered personally.

The post Collecting Sawdust – Tips from Sticks in the Mud – August 2017 – Tip #2 appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

A Long Wall Shelf for Books

The Literary Workshop Blog - Mon, 07/31/2017 - 6:14am

Bibliophiles face an ongoing problem: where to store the books?  In our house, we have run out of places to put more full-sized bookshelves, so we have had to get a little more creative by using more of our vertical space.

Long Wall Shelf Summer 2017

Enter the long wall shelf.  I have always admired the ingenuity behind various wall-shelf designs.  The above wall shelf is especially designed to hold books, and to make use of some available space above a window and a dresser (below the mirror) in our bedroom.

(Yes, I know there is an ugly water spot on the ceiling.  Yes, the roof leak is now fixed.  Thanks for pointing that out, though.  It’s not like I look at that stain every single time I get up in the morning or anything.)

This is the second such shelf we have installed in our bedroom, and we love them.  They keep important books within reach while still keeping them out of the way.  There were, however, several challenges in designing and constructing them.  (1) A long shelf that holds a lot of books is going to sag in the middle, and the longer the shelf, the more it will sag, so I had to come up with some sort of support system for the center of the shelf.  (2) The shelf needed to be very strong, yet use simple joinery that could be cut on the ends of a 9-foot board.  You don’t want this thing crashing down on your head while you’re rummaging through your sock drawer.

Long Wall Shelf Summer 2017

Taking my cue from old-fashioned timber-frame construction, I opted for angled braces on each end, attached to upright posts with lapped dovetails.  The posts are notched and screwed into the back corner of the shelf, and the dovetails on the braces prevent the shelf from sagging forward.  The tops of the posts are screwed to the wall studs.

The beauty of this design is that you find your wall studs first, and then you build your shelf to span the distance between the studs.  A couple big, long screws on each side, and the shelf is firmly and permanently anchored to the wall.  I used 3″ long deck screws.

The shelf you see in the photo above uses central bracing only on the back.  They are braces that are attached at an angle between the corner posts and the center of the back with lapped dovetails.  While elegant when the shelf is empty, the braces take up space behind the books, and the big books hang off too far.  For my longer shelf, I needed a different solution to the sag-problem.

Long Wall Shelf Summer 2017

I opted for a third post in the center of the shelf, but instead of the lapped dovetail I used on the sides, I decided on a tusked tenon.  On the left, you see one of the braces for the end.  On the right, you see the middle post and brace with its longer tenon.  Making them required some precise layout and sawing, but cutting the joints was not difficult.  I built the end assemblies first–which was easy–and then used them as a template for the central assembly.

Long Wall Shelf Summer 2017

I chopped the mortise in the post for the brace, then drilled it to drawbore the tenon.  That will keep the brace from coming loose, even if the glue ever fails.

Long Wall Shelf Summer 2017

Laying out and cutting the through-mortise was the most difficult part of the whole process.  It’s not easy to lay out an angled mortise precisely in the middle of a long board.  I set my marking gauge based on the joint I had cut on the end of the board.

Long Wall Shelf Summer 2017

Since the end assemblies use the same angles and placement as the center assembly, everything should work out.  Theoretically.

Long Wall Shelf Summer 2017

I would normally just chop out a mortise in wood this soft.  (The uprights and braces are southern yellow pine, and the shelf itself is juniper.)  But the mortise runs across the grain, not with it, so I bored out most of the waste with a brace and bit.  Since it’s a through-mortise, I bored from each side.  There was a lot of flipping this board over and over again throughout the project.  After boring out the waste, I cut out the rest with some chisels.  Cutting the mortise at an angle required some care.  It’s a good thing that the insides of mortises are never seen, because I left that surface pretty ragged.

Long Wall Shelf Summer 2017

And just to prove that even bloggers screw things up sometimes, here is my first attempt at a dry-fit.  I had cut the brace about 1/4″ too short, and you can see the gap between the shoulder and the upright.  So I discarded that brace and made a second one that fit properly.

Long Wall Shelf Summer 2017

Once I had the mortise in the shelf cut, I put everything together, marked the tenon where it came out of the mortise, and then bored a 3/8″ hole through the tenon, just slightly overlapping the line.

Long Wall Shelf Summer 2017

I shaved down one side of a hardwood dowel and tapped it through the hole, pulling everything up tight.  The dowel–or tusk–will hold up the shelf in the middle and prevent it from sagging.  I rounded over the end of the tenon, just so I didn’t have any sharp corners sticking out.

 

And here is the shelf with everything glued up and assembled:

Long Wall Shelf Summer 2017

For a finish, I just rubbed some paste wax on it and buffed it off.  There’s no need to do any kind of elaborate finish here.  Once the glue set up, it was time to mount the shelf in its place on the wall.

Long Wall Shelf Summer 2017

Two big screws in each upright holds everything in place.

It will hold almost nine feet of books.  And it won’t take me long to fill it up.


Milk Paint Pickling Technique for Oak – Rustic Farmhouse-Style Wood Finish

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 07/31/2017 - 5:56am

Several years ago I made a bookcase in red oak as a birthday gift for my husband. I wanted to make it looked like old wood that had been painted, then stripped…poorly. (Yes, some readers will conclude that I have a warped aesthetic.) I decided to use milk paint because the relatively brittle finish seemed like a good candidate for easy sanding. So I mixed up the paint as usual and started […]

The post Milk Paint Pickling Technique for Oak – Rustic Farmhouse-Style Wood Finish appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

the day after

Old Ladies - Pedder's blog - Mon, 07/31/2017 - 4:42am
Nach dem Holzwerkertreffen 2017 bin ich noch mit zu Timo gefahren. Apfelholz abholen und mir die tolle neue Werkstatt ansehen.

After the  Holzwerkertreffen 2017 (woodworker meeting) Timo took me to his shop. To take the apple wood, his father changed and to visit his new fantastic shop.

Wir haben mit dem Veritas Nuthobe und einem Form eisen gespielt.
We played a bit with the Veritas small plow plane and a beeding blad

 
Timo won a new GluBot. It was tested.

TImo hat beim Gewinnspiel eine GluBot gwonnen. EIne Sehr praktische Leimflasche.
Categories: Hand Tools

Wrapping for Pre-orders Only

The Mortise & Tenon Magazine Blog - Mon, 07/31/2017 - 4:22am

Beginning with Issue Three, we will only be doing the brown paper and wax-sealed trade cards for subscriptions and pre-orders. After this issue’s pre-order window has closed, the magazine will be mailed naked in a rigid mailer. If this special wrapping is important to you, please know that the only way to get this is to purchase a yearly subscription or pre-order the issue

Although I never would have anticipated this, these trade cards have become collectibles. Many readers have emailed us pictures of the cards proudly displayed in their shops. Since every new issue will feature a new trade card designed just for that issue, I can picture folks 10 years from now boasting that they have every single trade card since the beginning! Ha! That would be awesome. 

Because we don’t want anyone bummed to miss out, we will be repeating this message until pre-orders close at the end of September. We know there are going to be customers that will email us the week after we stop wrapping to ask why theirs isn’t wrapped. Don’t let it be you.

This change also applies to Issues One and Two. We will continue to wrap every single copy of those two that we sell until late September. At that point, we’ll never again wrap Issues 1-3. If you want a wrapped copy of Issues One or Two, time is running out.

To make sure that we’re as clear as possible, from here on out, we’re probably going to refer to this as our “Pre-order wrapping” or something like that.

The best way to guarantee you never want to miss out on any issue is to purchase a yearly subscription. Then you know you’re all set.

Tonight, at the strike of midnight, yearly subscriptions, Issue Three pre-orders, and our new eBook will be available on our store. Hang tight, folks!

 

- Joshua

 

Categories: Hand Tools

got a couple in the done column........

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 07/31/2017 - 2:51am
It was a good day in the shop. I got into a groove starting about 0700 and when I looked up at the clock it was almost noon. I had already finished up two projects, I was closing in a 3rd, and I was sure that I would get the 4th one squeezed in too. I went looking for some hinges but as usual I couldn't find what I was looking for.  I have a small pair of butts I want to use for the door on the finishing cabinet but there was no joy. I thought I had them with the other hinges but I couldn't find in that bin.

This is a popcorn post with lots of pics. I will try to keep the verbiage to a minimum and let the pics tell the story of today's shop day.

parts came in saturday
When I got this plane it was missing the frog adjust screw and the washers for the frog screws. I bought and extra set of washers to have in my goodie bag. I had a modern replacement frog adjust screw that would have worked but I wanted an original Stanley one.

5 1/4 is ready to go
Spitting out equal shavings on both sides and nice long full length and full width shavings. This plane is ready to go for my grandson.

starboard aft quarter shot
bow shot
4 frog washers and 2  frog screws to go into the goodie bag
The two washers on the bench were the interim washers. I found out the Stanley washers are a #10 washer but I haven't found any of them yet.

why I had to make my dadoes deeper
I made the 'tabs' on the the second clamp bar over an 1/8" wider than my practice piece.

set up overnight
The screw hole is right in line with the dado and that is why it split. Even with this glued I don't have a warm and fuzzy that it won't do it again. I will use a screw in the bottom one but this one I will use a bolt and nut.

no room for the bolt
made a pocket with a 11/16" forstner bit
hack sawed the extra - it's blocking the screw hole behind it
I did this for all four of the top holes on both clamp bars.

yikes!!!! it doesn't fit
whew - sometimes the obvious escapes me and heads south
I forgot to do the dadoes on this clamp bar
done and I like
plenty of room for me to walk by
made four corbels(?)
they will hide the metal bracket on the clamp bar
last cheek sawn on the right
I sawed the tenons on the center stile and the right one was the last one. And the worse one I did.

my first two - thin web left on both cheeks
 the shoulder to shoulder is dead nuts
trying something different
I was going to use the butt mortise plane but I changed lanes for this. This came from the Wb8nbs blog post on making a door (his is about 1/2 way). He had a slick idea for trimming the tenons with a hand router and this is my take on that.

I used my wagon vise
The two orange colored boards are scraps from my kitchen. With the veneer on both sides it makes it a wee bit thicker than the center stile is.

still too fat - it took 4 trim and check cycles to get it to fit
got it dry fitted and it is square
a bit proud here - this will be the out face on the door
this is a strong 32nd but it's on the thicker part of the groove wall.

made a story stick for the panels - length and width
Since this is summer and it's humid, I made the panel a full fit in the grooves.

panels sawn to rough length
planed a reference edge, marked the width and sawed off the line
ends squared and planed to width
small panel raiser
I have had this plane for several years and I haven't made a panel with it yet. Or one that I would use even on a shop project. I made a practice run to get the width of the bevel.

I can't figure out the cross grain spur
If I want to feel like my IQ is 10 points lower than my shoe size, I try to use this. I don't have any luck with this at all. Mostly it comes loose and falls out and I usually don't see that happen.

cross grain looks good on the practice board
The long grain edge was used to set my marking gauge to the depth of the bevel. I scored the end and than used my marking knife to deepen it. I think it looks good and I'll do the same on the two panels.

got the four end grain edges done
They came up relatively clean with out any noticeable tear out or blowouts.

my first two panels raised by a molder
All my previous experience with molding planes paid off.

need a rabbet on the back to fit the preacher
I made the panel too long
because my story pole is off - too many stray pencil marks
sawed the panels to the correct length and planed the edge again
I made a shallow rabbet on the back of the panels on the tablesaw.

never would of thought I would get to this point a couple of days ago
L or R color for the finishing cabinet
The blue looks too girly to me but I'm not overly fond of the purplish color on the right either. I tossed a coin and the purple color won and it only took 3 tries.

wedging the tenons
My tenons aren't the greatest thing in the fit department. When it was twisted they were snug and self supporting. The center stile tenons are the loosest. They fit but aren't self supporting. 3 of the rail tenons are kind of self supporting and one isn't. Because of that I am going to wedge the tenons. I got them marked and drilled a relief hole.

flaring the outside walls of the tenons

sawing my wedges
I found some 1/4x1/4 poplar that I'm using for the wedges. I sawed them to length and then used the chisel to hold it as I sawed it kitty corner.

I only got one out of each - thought I would have gotten two
all tidied up
painted the edges front and back
I let this dry for an hour and then I glued up the door. I painted the edges so when the panel shrinks I won't see bare wood.

sawed the wedge slots
making some 1/4" dowels
I used the same stock I used for the wedges to make the dowels. Along with the wedges and glue, I am also pinning the tenons. I didn't draw bore them, just pinned them in a slightly undersized hole .

all four corners
same treatment on the center stile top and bottom
back side of the door
Tomorrow I'll saw the dowels flush, saw off the horns, and flush up the stiles and rails. Then I'll have a door to paint and hang. If I can find those *^%&;^%#@$%* butts.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a vicennial event?
answer - something that happens every 20 years

High Desert Saw Mill

orepass: Woodworking to Pass the Time - Sun, 07/30/2017 - 7:14pm

While in Bend Oregon I wandered out to the High Desert Museum to see what could be learned. Stumbling across a saw mill I thought about all the work Matt Cremona was doing with his homemade bandsaw. Missed them operating by a few days which would have given me more insight as to the mills operation. Following are a few pictures.

It appears to be a nice set up, complete with wooden idlers to move the wood and a chop saw to cut everything to length.


Categories: Hand Tools

Sharpen This, Part 9: Guided by Voices

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Sun, 07/30/2017 - 4:36pm

LN_guide_IMG_9028

Read the other installments in the “Sharpen This” series via this link.

When it comes to the topic of honing guides, I’d sooner have a double colonoscopy than discuss them. But here goes.

Honing guides are jigs. They hold a cutter to perform an operation, much like a scratch stock holds a moulding cutter, a slitting gauge holds a knife for cutting veneer or a router holds a dovetail bit for cutting joinery. Sometimes jigs are a good idea; sometimes they are a fool’s errand.

But to dismiss them entirely relegates you to the realm of woodworkers who populate the food court at the Woodworking Show, yammering to the ketchup dispenser about the finer points of mustard. Don’t be that guy.

As someone who has used almost every honing guide on the planet and who started life as a devoted freehand sharpener, here’s my take: You can’t do all of your sharpening with a honing guide (or the accessories to the accessories for the honing guide). But you’re also a fool if you don’t acknowledge that a simple honing guide can bring consistency and speed to sharpening simple blades.

If you want to explore honing guides, first buy the cheapest one – the Chinese-made side-clamp honing guide that costs $10 to $20. This is one case where spending a lot of money isn’t a great idea. Expensive honing guides are usually part of some sort of system, like Amway.

Try the honing guide. Compare its edges to the edges you get when you sharpen freehand. And – whatever you do – make your decision without consulting the Internet. It will only radicalize you one way or the other.

Personally
I use a honing guide for straight chisels and simple plane blades. Everything else – moulding plane cutters, carving tools, knives, weird chisels, awls, etc. – are sharpened freehand. And when I’m working in the field, I sharpen chisels and bench plane blades freehand – it’s not difficult, stressful or even inconvenient.

I use a guide at times because, like all jigs, it can speed the operation of routine chores (I think of it like using a table saw for ripping lots of lumber). But I’d never use a honing guide that required a setup time of more than two minutes – by that time I’d have the edge sharp and ready to go back to work.

But most of all, don’t let any debate about sharpening equipment or techniques get in the way of your sharpening.

— Christopher Schwarz


Filed under: Sharpen This
Categories: Hand Tools

Traditional Upholstery Conservation: Uncovering Evidence

WPatrickEdwards - Sun, 07/30/2017 - 12:01pm



American Victorian Louis XV Bergere circa 1850
I have spent the past few weeks doing upholstery projects.  I finished conserving a rather large marquetry armoire and wanted something different to work on.  Upholstery allows me to hammer and that relaxes me...

You may have read my post recently about how modern museum methods are causing traditional upholstery methods to be lost and the craft of upholsterer subjugated to that of the frame maker.  As I was working on restoring upholstery I thought it would be a good educational post to demonstrate how I approach conserving upholstery in my business.

I had to recover two English Georgian Lolling Chairs, an early crewel wing chair, some embossed leather Belgium side chairs and a nicely made circular Victorian bergere chair.  All of these are now completed and the last one, the Victorian chair, provided me with detailed step-by-step photos of the seat conservation.

In general, I follow as close as possible the methods used by the original upholsterer , conserving the springs and stuffing material, except the cotton batting.  I replace the damaged elements using materials which are as close as possible.  Jute webbing, spring cord and twine, burlap, muslin and cotton batting are added as required.  If necessary, new 100% sterilized horsehair is added where previous stuffing was lost.

Here is a photo sequence of the procedure as it normally happens:

Bottom "Cambric" 
Usually a black muslin (called "cambric" is used underneath the seat.  This acts to keep dust from falling out during use.  These days it is a cheap fiberglass material which I detest.  I use more expensive black cloth when I can find it.  However, this chair was recovered at some point and the worker used burlap.

Replaced Jute Webbing
Removing the burlap exposes the springs, which are sewn to the jute, but only in a few places.

Evidence of Original Webbing
Under the replaced jute webbing is a fragment of the original webbing.  This narrow webbing was common during the 19th century.

Webbing Removed
Now you can see the failure of the burlap on top of the springs.  This is usually what happens when the cord breaks or the burlap tears.  The stuffing falls into the spring package and is damaged.  I always tell clients to stop using the seat when this happens and bring it to me for conservation before it is damaged beyond repair.


Back Foundation Still Good Condition
On this chair the original upholsterer did a fantastic job of building the back foundation.  It is not easy to work on circular backs and his work has stood the test of time.  I plan on leaving it in place as it is still serviceable.

Maker's Mark 
This chair was probably made in a large workshop where the number system was used on different styles of furniture.

Torn Burlap/Hair Dislodged
This is a close up of the torn burlap and the horsehair falling out of place.

Previous Conservation Stitching
This photo is sideways.  It clearly shows the original burlap and stitching used by the worker to create the front edge of the seat.  At some point another upholsterer was asked to recover the chair and he added stitches to the edge to hold it in place.  His stitches are the newer twine.  I was the first person to remove the seat foundation, which lasted 150 years.

Back Layers/Original Burlap and Stitching
This shows clearly the layers of the back upholstery.  The fabric is lifted up and the cotton batting is pulled aside.  You can see that someone added white horsehair to the original black horsehair.  Also the original burlap is stitched and tacked around the edge of the frame.  Undisturbed.

White Hair added by Previous Conservation
Now that the springs are clean on the bottom, it is time to remove the top foundation.

Original Burlap/Spring Cord/Twine
The horsehair foundation is removed and the original burlap is exposed.  It is rotten and must be replaced.  Note it is stitched to the tops of the springs.

Seat Foundation Removed/White Hair Added Previously
This is the complete original horsehair seat foundation, with white hair added later.


Underneath Seat Foundation
This is the underside of the seat foundation.  Care must be taken to remove all tacks from the edges.
It can be cleaned with a vacuum or actually washed and dried using TileX as a detergent.  If necessary it can be fumigated by a professional.

Original Spring Cord Undisturbed
Chair with seat completely removed.  The original spring cord is left in place.

Back Foundation Stitching Original
Again, the back is fine.  Just leave it in place for future upholsterers to admire.

Same Mark on Seat Frame


Cleaning With Alcohol/ Fresh Shellac Added
A quick cleaning with alcohol and a fresh coat of shellac restores the wood nicely.


Springs Sewn to Jute Webbing (4 knot)
It is important to stitch the springs to the webbing.  They must be placed carefully in a vertical position.  I use a curved needle and tufting twine.

Springs Sewn to Webbing
This shows the bottom with all the springs stitched in 4 places.

Original Spring Cord Pattern (8 knot)
The original spring cord in place.  I noticed that the outside springs are missing the diagonal cord.  This contributed to a weakness in the front center of the package, where the burlap broke down.

Note Method of Holding Springs
The proper technique for tying the springs is to hold them at different levels on the seat edges.  This makes the spring sit flat on the top and move directly up and down under load.  If the top only was tied then the middle of the spring would bulge out sideways under load.

New Cord Added over Old (8 knot)
I use Italian Spring Cord and tie each spring with 8 knots.  All cords are also knotted where they cross.  I added cord directly over the original cord.  I also added the missing diagonals which will provide more support to the front center.

This Will Last a Century More
Some might call this "overkill" but I want it to last under use for a long time.

New Burlap Cut to Fit Around Arms
To cut fabric around a wood element use the "Y" cut.

New Burlap Sewn To Springs
The first layer of burlap is added, tacked to the top of the frame and sewn to the springs.  If I were building a new layer of fresh horsehair I would also use twine to hold the hair to the burlap.

Lead Weight Holds Seat in Place for Tacking
One of the tricks I use in upholstery is to add a heavy weight to the seat while I am fitting the fabric or stuffing in place.  This tends to simulate the person sitting on the seat and allows me to pull the material from all sides without it moving around.  Note I added new burlap to the top of the seat foundation and this burlap layer is carefully tacked to the outside top edge of the frame.

Seat Conserved Ready for Fabric Selection
I use tufting twine to hold the seat foundation in place.  Since it is stitched to the new burlap it will work properly and not shift around.  I left all the older stitching in place and I suspect that the next worker who uncovers this seat will understand the various methods which were used to create it as well as the process used to conserve it.  It will survive as an historic artifact with all the evidence conserved in place.  In addition it will be providing comfort for the owner for many years to come.


Categories: Hand Tools

Sand in One Direction – Tips from Sticks in the Mud – August 2017 – Tip #1

Highland Woodworking - Sun, 07/30/2017 - 5:00am

Welcome to “Tips From Sticks-In-The-Mud Woodshop.” I am a hobbyist who loves woodworking and writing for those who also love the craft. I have found some ways to accomplish tasks in the workshop that might be helpful to you, and I enjoy hearing your own problem-solving ideasPlease share them in the COMMENTS section of each tip.  If, in the process, I can also make you laugh, I have achieved 100% of my goals.

I got started making stools for grandbabies, and I just can’t stop. Now, I like making a variety of styles.

The last stool I made, for little Kessa, the legs were rather close to the edge of the top; wide for stability.

I ran into a problem when I began to sand that little area of the top’s underside, though, between the leg and the edge. I started out going back and forth, like one usually would when sanding, but there was just no way I could make my hand go straight enough not to cross the grain, even though the angle was very, very slight.

I discovered, though, that if I put the sandpaper up against the leg and simply pulled it away, in one direction, that the scratches were invisible, because they were perfectly in line with the grain of the wood.

Little scraps of saved sandpaper came in really handy for that job.

Vintage pine made a beautiful project, even if it was challenging to sand.

Funny story: I don’t always have paper handy to write myself notes, so I often dictate notes to myself on the iPhone. To keep myself from forgetting to write this tip, I dictated, “Sand in One Direction.” Why, I wondered, did iPhone capitalize One Direction? Then, I thought of our eldest granddaughter, who loves the boy band, and figured it out.

Jim Randolph is a veterinarian in Long Beach, Mississippi. His earlier careers as lawn mower, dairy farmer, automobile mechanic, microwave communications electronics instructor and journeyman carpenter all influence his approach to woodworking. His favorite projects are furniture built for his wife, Brenda, and for their children and grandchildren. His and Brenda’s home, nicknamed Sticks-In-The-Mud, is built on pilings (sticks) near the wetlands (mud) on a bayou off Jourdan River. His shop is in the lower level of their home.Questions and comments on woodworking may be written below in the comments section. Questions about pet care should be directed to his blog on pet care, www.MyPetsDoctor.com. We regret that, because of high volume, not all inquiries can be answered personally.

The post Sand in One Direction – Tips from Sticks in the Mud – August 2017 – Tip #1 appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

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