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The Woodworking Blogs Aggregator

This "aggregator" collects all of the woodworking blogs I read every day - or try to anyway!  Enjoy!

Do you have a suggestion for a hand-tool woodworking blog you would like to see here?  Tell me via the CONTACT page.  Thanks!

Headlines

These kids have been playing together since they were four. Here...

Giant Cypress - Fri, 04/17/2015 - 3:18am


These kids have been playing together since they were four. Here they are playing “Smooth Criminal”. Check out the “Billie Jean” break.

And it goes without saying that these are four Asians who rock.

couple of more ticked off.....

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 04/17/2015 - 1:27am
I didn't get my full decompression time in the shop tonight. The errands I usually run on wednesday I didn't do. I had to do at least one of them on the way home and it was a you might as well do them all.  In spite of the delay I still got half of want I wanted done tonight anyways.


chopped the plugs out
For some reason I had a mind fart again with plugging mortises. I mixed up what was the bottom and top of this apron and I thought that I had missed plugging these two. So I plugged them (last night) and realized tonight that I had to add two more plugs to be chopped out again.

funny looking chips
The chips from chopping the plugs spit out funny ones. Usually they are small separate chips but these are sticking together and forming long spirals.  I'm sure it's because of the hide glue I used to glue these plugs with.

got my honing sandpaper from Lee Valley via the man in Brown
 LV offers three grits in this grade of honing paper and I bought two of each. The lowest and middle grits you can get it backed in PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive). I bought one of them with it and one without. I'll use the adhesive stuff to wrap around dowels, etc. The highest grade grit is only available without the PSA.

bought a slip stone - fine grade
bought it for the various shapes
and for it being a fine grade for honing
this looks like a fun area to sharpen
I resisted the urge to try it out here
got my new paint can
I'm not sure if I need this now that I have it. 99.99% of my finishes are shellac with a rare use of poly.  I'll fill it with mineral spirits and set it by the shellac one. I'll have to label them so I won't have to sniff them to determine which on I grabbed.

shooting ends square
I squared up one end on the center rails and also the 4 drawer runners. I needed a square end so I could saw the tenons on them. I can't do the other end until I do a dry fit of the base and get an exact shoulder to shoulder length.

wispy shavings
 The shavings and the ease at which I can push the plane through the end grain tells me how sharp I am.

this is the bell ringer
This end grain is as smooth as a piece of glass. When the iron starts to dull the shiny look is the first thing to go south. The plane will still shave but the shine will disappear and gradually the face will get rougher as the plane starts to tear rather then slice. I'm learning to look and feel to tell me when I have to stop and sharpen.

shoulders sawn - cheeks are next

sawed on the line
I have changed the way I saw out my tenon cheeks. I was purposely sawing way over into the waste side of the line and trimming the cheeks with my routers. My skill with sawing has slowly been getting better and I'm slowly sawing on or trying to split my line. I did ok with this tenon.

wee bit too tight
I made the tenons the same on the top and bottom rails. The top of the top rail is even with the top edge of the apron. The bottom of the bottom rail is up from the bottom of the apron about 1/8". There wasn't any need to flush these two surfaces. The top will also be a point where I'm securing the table top down to.

used the tenon plane to fit the tenons
I use the plane to align the exit end of the shoulder with the shooting board end. This way I have less of a tendency to blow out this part of the tenon.

chiseled a chamfer on all the edges

this end of the rails are fitted
gap on both sides
I left a 1/16" gap on each side of the mortise for insurance. I am hoping that all the square shoulders of all the rails will help to square up the table base. But just in case I need to move these rails a smidgen, I have that option. I'll repeat this on the other side

drawer runner rails
I got one end of these squared and ready to layout and saw the tenons. I should be able to whack this other half out tomorrow. It will be the end of the week then and I won't have to worry about going to work the next day.

accidental woodworker     day 7 gone with 29 left to finish the table

trivia corner
Which of the US Service  Academies was the first to admit women?
answer - The Coast Guard Academy in 1976

A Quick Update on Making Benchdogs

The Bench Blog - Fri, 04/17/2015 - 1:00am

This is just a quick post.  In my last entry, How to Make Round Benchdogs – A Pictorial, I showed the process that I used to make the benchdogs for my workbench.  The trickiest part of this process was installing the small bullet catches that I bought from Lee Valley. They require a 5/16ths hole, but the fit is very, very tight.  They need to be pressed in, as hammering them in might damage them.  In my previous post, I used a bench vise and some scrap hardboard to do this.  It was awkward to say the least.

A friend at my local woodworkers club suggested that I use the quill of my drill press to press in the bullet catches.  I thought this was brilliant idea.  It certainly never would have occurred to me to use the drill press in this manner.   At the end of my previous post, I had run out of bullet catches and was waiting for more to arrive from Lee Valley. Well, they got here and I decided to try out the drill press method.

I used one of the pieces of oak that I had cut a V-notch in to support the benchdog.

Using the drill press to install the bullet catches.

Using the drill press to install the bullet catches.

Lining it up.

Lining it up.

Pressing it in.

Pressing it in.

Fully seated.

Fully seated.

This works very well.  It made installing the bullet catches as simple as you could wish.

I just thought I should post this quick tip, in case you try making your own.

More soon.

 

– Jonathan White

New tools

goatboy's woodshop - Fri, 04/17/2015 - 12:12am

20150412_124910It was my birthday recently, and I thought I might show you the tools I got given. 

As you can see, I got given a quick release tail-vise, which I will be installing on the end of my new workbench (when I get around to making it, that is!)…

20150412_125015

 

…and two new wood thread cutting kits. I already have a ¾” and a 1″ set, and now I have a ½” and a 1½” set. Apparently there is a 1¼” set as well, so maybe this Christmas I’ll end up with the full set (hint hint). I am most pleased with the 1½” set, as this will allow me to make my own leg vise for my new bench.

 

I also got a set of hake brushes, for applying shellac; a set of gimlets, for starting threads for screws; and a burnishing tool, for sharpening cabinet scrapers. Happy days!

20150412_124739  20150412_124814  20150412_124847


Filed under: Uncategorized

Bending Beautiful Bubinga Binding

Doug Berch - Thu, 04/16/2015 - 9:47pm

Though I have done it countless times I am always amazed when a straight. flat, piece of wood turns into the curved shape of a dulcimer. Heat and moisture make wood pliable. It’s that simple. Today I bent bubinga binding for two dulcimers in the works. After sawing bubinga into appropriately dimensioned strips I clean […]

The post "Bending Beautiful Bubinga Binding" appeared first on "Doug Berch."

Categories: Luthiery

Grindstone Reforms

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Thu, 04/16/2015 - 9:02pm

cleveland_grinderWhy was the grindstone placed in that obscure corner where no light ever comes? And why was so much care taken to adjust the belt so precisely that conjointly with any pressure of the tool on the stone the belt flies off? In the present instance, by a change in the locality of the shop, and a consequent re-setting of machines, these evils have been done away with, but the places are not a few where such things still exist.

This may seem to some an unimportant subject, but in the opinion of those who work with good tools it is not. I have never owned or managed a large manufacturing concern—nor a small one either—but in a shop employing between 500 and 800 men all the year round, a large proportion of whom consist of cabinet makers, car builders, finishers, some carpenters and pattern makers, we think that a grindstone kept in condition for grinding wood chisels and plane bits would be worth its keeping.

In the place I speak of especially there is a stone which is used exclusively by the cabinet makers. It is in their department. For the rest, the stone is too fine, too far away and too slow to be used to advantage, so there is another provided which the rest are supposed to use, it being nearer at hand.

Many times have we chosen to rub our plane bits and chisels up on the oil stone, rather than botch them up on this stone. It is a good, quick-cutting stone, with plenty of speed and power; but it is like a local option town; sometimes it goes dry and sometimes wet. When it is as it generally is we have first to hunt up something to carry water in and then hunt up the water, the nearest being a barrel of soapsuds outside.

Then again there is a deposit at the bottom of the frame which on the surface has the glint of water. It is not; it is a thick yellow precipitate. This we are supposed to stir up with a stick, which may or may not be at hand. If not, we skirmish till we find one. It is admirably adapted to soil our shirts, obscure the edge of the tool and prevent it from wearing away the stone. Economy is wealth.

After the big bite that is taken out of the stone by the man who wants, and ought to have, a little one of his own, has been worn out by the continuous, careful application of chisels, etc., there follows a succession of angles and wave lines that go way past the 28th problem of the last book. A geometrician might be able to grind his knuckles on its variegated surface, but car builders, etc., want to grind their tools; they are not Euclids. When these problems are solved, there is still the cam movement, which develops a new outline every day, to catch on to.

To remedy these evils, a sign neatly written, on nice, white paper, bearing the edict, “Machinists must grind their tools in the tool room,” was placed in a wrought-iron frame and fastened to the floor near the stone. By accident, somebody happened to see it, and forthwith a strong solution of thick yellow mud was smeared over it, almost obliterating the writing. And things go on as they used to.

Now, as I said before, I have never owned an establishment, and probably never will; but in my humble opinion it would be a good scheme to enforce the order about machine tools, make blacksmiths grind their cut hammers on the stone fixed for them, and instruct a man, if one can be found who has not already more to do than he can well do, to straighten that stone up every day, keep that foul smelling filth out of the bottom and have clean water at hand ready for use.

I cannot ask them to put a wooden cover partly over the stone, with a bucket, with water in it, on top, and a spigot to regulate the flow. I don’t want to sink the place—financially. But I think that slight reforms might gradually be brought about, say in a year or two, without causing a panic.                                                                                                     —Perhaps.

American Machinist – June 9, 1892

—Jeff Burks


Filed under: Historical Images
Categories: Hand Tools

Effect of the Bicycle on the Lumber Trade

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Thu, 04/16/2015 - 9:01pm

springfield_bicycleThe continuing and growing demand for bicycles has its effect upon the hardwood lumber trade. It is estimated that there will be produced in American factories this year nearly 800,000 bicycles.

Practically all of these are equipped with wood rims. Each wood rim requires 2½ feet board measure, and allowing one-third for waste, that would mean a consumption of 6,000,000 feet, almost exclusively rock elm. This is for the rims alone, to say nothing of the guards and handlebars, but of the latter there is another story.

The consumption of 6,000,000 feet or thereabouts of rock elm does not look very large in a business which is accustomed to deal with hundreds of millions, but when it is remembered that only about 15 per cent of hard maple is available for rim purposes, and that therefore 40,000,000 feet of one of the minor hard woods must be handled over in order to obtain this material, the importance of the bicycle demand in this special way will be recognized.

It has had a marked effect upon the market for rock elm. It has increased the price for that portion of the stock from which the rims can be made, has increased the product and consequently has somewhat overburdened the market with lower grades and with nondescript grades; that is to say, this business has involved the picking over of the better part of the rock elm stock to such an extent that the remainder is damaged for the general market.

It is a question whether the sometimes fancy prices secured for the bicycle stock have compensated for the injury done the remainder. Those who are interested in the manufacture and handling of rock elm should do some figuring in regard to this matter and see if their prices have been properly adjusted as between the grades suitable for the different uses.

We spoke above of wooden handlebars. That is to be the next thing in bicycles, according to authorities on the subject. Wood, principally hickory, perhaps a little ash, is to be used instead of steel tubing, not because of any decrease in weight, as that will remain about the same, but because of the superior elasticity of the wood, making the wheels easier to ride and less fatiguing to the hands and arms.

Furthermore, it will be an advantage to the manufacturers, as bent tubing is a difficult article to manufacture, whereas hickory can be bent into any desired shape; and then, again, the new bars will be cheaper. There is no prospect of any less number of bicycles being manufactured in the near future than in the present or the past and perhaps a million bicycles next year may be placed new upon the market. A considerable proportion of them, it is said, perhaps the majority, will have handlebars made of second growth hickory. That is another thing for the hardwood men to take note of.

But the consumption of lumber due to the bicycle trade does not stop with this. There is crating. What that amounts to no one seems to know; but about every bicycle sooner or later is invested with a crate of its own, and this requirement must mean a considerable increase in consumption of coarse lumber; so, though the bicycle is largely a thing of tubing, wire and forgings, it has some influence on the lumber trade, and what does not? The lumber trade is one which is in touch, in some way or other, with almost every branch of industry.

(…from The Timberman)

Stove and Hardware Reporter – May 28, 1896

—Jeff Burks

A gallery of old bicycle posters.
Filed under: Historical Images
Categories: Hand Tools

fitting the cupboard door

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Thu, 04/16/2015 - 6:40pm

As promised – fitting a wooden hinge on a cupboard door. Again, I think I’ve never covered this on the blog. Here’s the cupboard, sans door: note the rabbet in the muntin beside the door opening.

assembly begun

To hinge this door with wooden pins is easy. Bore holes in the upper and lower rails’ inside edges. Here’s the top rail – I haven’t finished pinning the joints in the frame, but ignore that. See the hole bored in the upper rail’s lower edge:

top rail hole for pin

Corresponding hole in the upper edge of the door, note bevels on outer corners of door stile:

top of door

 

 

The wooden pin on the top of the door bottoms out in the stile, and protrudes up into the upper rail. Here it is in the stile:

top pin

 

here’s the bottom edge of the door – note the pin here fits (loosely) all the way up into the stile:

 

bottom of door

 

With my finger covering the hole in the bottom of the door, I tilt the upper pin in place, and then lean the door into its opening.

 

tilt in the top

 

Then knock it about some with a hammer, to jar the pin loose so it drops down into the bottom rail.

knock the bottom edge

The hole in the bottom rail is shallow, so the pin bottoms out in the rail and sticks up into the door’s hole –

open

 

I planed a rabbet in the door’s other stile, to overlap the rabbet in the frame. This stops the door from going all the way into the cupboard. You can (& I have sometimes) make rabbets on the hinge stile too – so the door is a little more snug = this one just butts up against the muntin.

door knob, couple of pins, linseed oil & this one’s crossed off.

Saw this guy this AM on my walk –

strut

 

 

 

 


The Long and Winding Road.

The Slightly Confused Woodworker - Thu, 04/16/2015 - 5:57pm

Sunday, April 12th was the day I almost quit woodworking. There was nothing special about the day, aside from the lovely spring weather. In fact, the entire weekend was nice. I spent Saturday morning at Valley Forge Park working on one of the cabins as a volunteer. I got to install some true 18th century hinge hardware, and I got to use woodworking tools. We did a lot of nice work and it was an enjoyable morning. Sunday started out with a lot of promise. It was warm, sunny, and a perfect day for woodworking. But that all changed when I stepped into my garage.

For the past month or so I’ve been doing my best to organize my garage, prepare my woodworking tools, and otherwise do my best to turn the back of my garage into something of a real woodworking shop. My first attempts were successful. I reorganized my hardware, got rid of a lot of unnecessary clutter, and slowly but surely got my tools prepped for building furniture again. The next step I had planned was making a wall rack for hanging chisels, files, rasps, and marking tools. Currently, all of those things are in my tool chest. My tool chest has found a home under the right side of my bench and it is frankly a pain in the ass to keep bending over to pick things out of it. I felt a wall mounted rack would be an easy solution and the best way to keep everything safely out of the way but also within arms reach. I still had some scrap Walnut left over so that is what I used. And it pretty much went down hill from there.

Board in the rough

Board in the rough

Sawing to length

Sawing to length

Cleaning up the edges

Cleaning up the edges

Rather than break out the table saw I decided to do everything by hand. I won’t bore anybody with the details. I sawed, I planed, I chiseled, and I planed again. Let me just say before I continue that I generally don’t enjoy making “shop projects”. To me they are at best a necessary evil, at worst, a complete waste of time and energy. To continue, the next step was to lay out the holes for the tools. I marked the board and laid out a symmetrical pattern of 7/8″ holes roughly an inch and a half on center. After, I broke out the drill press to bore out the holes. Let me just say that boring out twenty or so holes using a drill press may have been one of the least satisfying experiences of my life, and this is coming from somebody who went through Basic Training. The entire time I was working I continually asked myself: “Why the F*** am I doing this? It’s nice out, and this completely sucks.” It then came to the question: “Why am I woodworking? Because right now I’m not enjoying it even a little.”

Cleats marked

Cleats marked

Cleats sawn and chiseled

Cleats sawn and chiseled

Bored holes, bored woodworker

Bored holes, bored woodworker

sawn out.

sawn out.

One hour and one big mess later the holes were bored out. Then came the even worse task of sawing out the fronts of the holes. After thirty minutes and even more mess that was finished. To add insult to injury, around the second cut in it occurred to me that my carcass saw needed to be sharpened, but I wasn’t about to do it then, so I instead used an old backsaw that was given to me by a friend of my wife. At that point I had had enough. The holes still needed to be cleaned up and rasped, the rack still needed to be smoothed and sanded, and the cleats still needed to be shaped. I didn’t do any of those things. I cleaned up, went and got myself cleaned up, and did my best to enjoy the rest of the afternoon.

I will probably finish this project on Saturday afternoon, as my wife and daughter have somewhere to be. Not that I want to, but because I’ve already invested several hours into it I need to see it through. As this was all going on and I was completing the mind-numbing task I couldn’t help but to wonder who in their right mind would enjoy making a rack for chisels. But many woodworkers must because I’ve seen dozens of projects such as this in every woodworking magazine I’ve ever read. It then dawned on me that maybe I’m not cut out for woodworking after all. In any event I did the correct thing and walked away from it before It drove me from partially to completely insane. Maybe when it’s finished I will feel a little better about it. But right now I am four days removed and I still feel no enthusiasm. It will pass, I’m sure, but the next time I need a tool rack I’m going to buy it if I can, and the next tool box I make will be one that hangs on my wall.


Categories: General Woodworking

Wonderful Wood From Yandles

David Barron Furniture - Thu, 04/16/2015 - 3:04pm

The Yandles show was another good one, although I find shows tiring and it takes me a few days to catch up on orders as well as replenish stock. The first thing I do when I arrive there is to look round the wood yard, they put out lots of new stock the day before the show starts, a heads up for you wood hounds. As I have a lot of nice wood and very little space left, I'm getting very fussy in my old age, however this large board of chestnut had to be mine.


It's 6' long, 18" wide and 3" thick and had been air dried rather than kilned, which is great, it can gently do the last stage of drying in my workshop. The nice tight ripple was evident on both both sides and covered more than half the board. It was also quarter sawn with nice streaks of colour running through.
I've never worked with chestnut before, but I look forward to using this once it has settled and I can find the time!

Categories: Hand Tools

Time for changing perspectives

Paul Sellers - Thu, 04/16/2015 - 1:27pm

Sometimes I do wonder why woodworking as a trade or profession is declining. I wonder whether it could ever return for people who like me knew there corner in their early teens. Some say it was easier for me then than those looking for a  way of work today, but few really understand the fight it took. Few of us really understand that the consumerism they feel is a right might well be the very thing that’s destroyed craft and the art of work and even life. Where we are today didn’t start with the internet but with the industrialising of people centuries ago. Creating a dynamic by which people worked to buy rather than work to make the things essential to life birthed a way of getting people to work primarily for money.

PICT0037It’s an interesting reality that there’s more information on woodworking available for free today than ever in the history of woodworking. I realise there’s a problem with too much information and too much wrong information too, but that’s not really where the problem lies. The problem lies mostly in another realm, a realm from where you might least expect it. Education you would think would, well, educate you to better understand the knowledge you are learning of so that you can make an educated decision about your future when in actuality that’s for many of not most far from the case.PICT0012 Education people, parents, counsellors and advisers, experts in the realms of educating young people for adulthood, tell school pupils that to be successful they need a good education, good school results and a university degree to take control of their futures. Somehow education is the empowering force where a universe opens its doors to them. Statistics do get bandied around a lot these days but I think things do show that that’s not so much true but more a fait accompli and that most adults don’t necessarily enjoy their jobs and would if possible change those critical decision-making years to search for work that would increase their levels of fulfilment in the more mature work they end up in. By the time they discover the flawed infrastructure that defined their future, education, they PICT0006find themselves locked into consumerism because earnings became paramount in a world that lacked interest and stimuli, challenge and discovery. The kind of stuff I’ve had throughout my adulthood. It’s now a fact  that over 33% of the technology workforce will change their jobs in the next 12 months and that 45% will plan on moving during that same period. Over 70% believe that they need to change their job to progress their career.

Apparently these workers would remain if the work was interesting and challenging and they had support of good people around them. Another ingredient important to people is open and honest communication between all involved.  Few would actually remain for a higher pay scale. Craft work and working with other people in close association seems to me essential to my craft and my own wellbeing.DSC_0097

My hope today is that the work I am doing will influence people enough for them to start thinking cluster-group cooperatives of three to four people starting woodworking businesses, associations or enterprises that are NOT purely money-based but relationships based surrounding likeminded business ambitions where the members earn enough to support their lives, families and lifestyle. Shared workspace, work, studio space and so much more could be the way forward. What do you think. Could some things become a thing of the past if people had an alternative of likeminded artisans and wannabes enough to be creative? I think it could happen.

The post Time for changing perspectives appeared first on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Simple & Strong

The English Woodworker - Thu, 04/16/2015 - 10:40am

Old English WorkbenchWhen it comes to workbench design there’s a rule to suit us all. Keep it simple, make it strong.

Give any woodworker a french bench, an english bench, a trestle and a door fitted out with original Victorian handle bench… as long as they’re strong, they all work.
The same applies to vices. A twin screw, leg vice or quick release; we may all develop our favourite given the choice, but they each will do the job all the same.

What you don’t want is a Bambi; a rickety, wobbly concoction. And to my mind overcomplicating the design is even more crippling; very rarely is the complicated one the best.
I was the simpleton at school, but simpletons build the best bench.

Categories: Hand Tools

Unplugged Shop

goatboy's woodshop - Thu, 04/16/2015 - 10:32am

UnpluggedShopModified.eps_-e1377856825155

The Unplugged Shop is a blog aggregator for woodworking blogs. It re-posts the posts of numerous woodworking blogs in one convenient homepage. A few days ago, I requested that my blog’s feed be added to the site and, happily, I have just received an email informing me that this has been done.

Hopefully that will mean an increase in traffic.


Filed under: Uncategorized

Tool Stands the Test of Time

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 04/16/2015 - 7:55am
My first project article was published in November 1997. I wrote about building a hanging corner cupboard which I had also built for my first brochure. (A photo out of the brochure is posted below.) If you take a look at the cupboard, you’ll see that there are many square pegs. There are pegs holding […]

Sample Board Partying – French Wax Polishing

The Barn on White Run - Thu, 04/16/2015 - 6:00am

Probably the simplest beautiful finish from a technological point of view is the French molten wax polish, which has but a few individual components yet yeilds a beautiful, lustrous presentation surface.

beeswax block

The first thing is a block of clean beeswax.  I render my own from raw wax straight from the beekeepers after the honey is harvested.

cIMG_8561

Next comes a source of heat to melt the wax onto the surface of the wood.  Historically something like a roofer’s soldering iron was used, these days I use an electric tacking iron.

cIMG_8479

I move the hot iron over the surface, spreading and melting the wax onto and into the surface until it is fully saturated.

cIMG_8480

Once the molten wax has been imbibed fully into the wood surface it is left to cool,

cIMG_8481

and once fully hardened it is scraped with a simple metal, wood, or bone scraper.  If the scraper has a nice clean edge (no burr!), the resulting surface can be mirror-like.  A little buffing with a piece of soft cloth like worn flannel or fine wool and you are done.  This might even be enhanced with some spit  polish.

The result is a high-sheen, non-toxic and easily repairable surface that is pretty robust against abrasion but utterly defenseless against heat or oily materials.  I’m working on some formulations to  make this finish a lot tougher, but it is increasingly one with which I am toying, and as I move forward with designing and fabrication parquetry panels, you can believe it is something I will employ.

cIMG_6393

 

WORK No. 161 - Published April 16, 1892

Work Magazine Reprint Project - Thu, 04/16/2015 - 4:00am

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Work Magazine asking the tough questions of the time. If a man only works 8 hours a day, then what could he possibly be doing with all that "play" time. Learn how to build a philomela perhaps?




And what of the modern man? When you are done with your 8 hours, or, if so inclined during your 8 hours, may we suggest brushing up on another newsworthy topic of the time? Tesla v. Edison


-Marisa

ARTICLES FOUND IN THIS ISSUE:
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ARTIFICIAL LIGHT: A NOVEL FLASH LAMP

A NEW IDEA IN DOOR-PANEL DECORATION

HOW TO MAKE A PHILOMENA

HOW TO PAPER A ROOM

MICROPHOTOGRAPHY WORK

NOVELTIES FOR WOOD-TURNERS

A DRAUGHT EXCLUDER, AND HOW TO MAKE IT

SCIENCE TO DATE

NOTES FOR WORKERS

TRADE: PRESENT AND FUTURE

SHOP


Disclaimer: Articles in Work describe materials and methods that would not be considered safe or advisable today. We are not responsible for the content of these magazines, and cannot take any responsibility for anyone attempting projects or procedures described therein.
The first issue of Work was published on March 23rd, 1889. The goal of this project is to release digital copies of the individual issues starting on the same date in 2012, effectively republishing the materials 123 years to the day from their original release.
The original printing was on thin, inexpensive paper. There are many cases of uneven inking and bleed-through from the page behind. Our copies of Work come from bound library volumes of these issues and are subject to unfavorable trimming, missing covers, etc. To minimize harm to these fragile volumes, we've undertaken the task of scanning the books ourselves. We do considerable post processing of the scans to make them clear but please bear with us if a margin is clipped too close, or a few words are unreadable. We would like to thank James Vasile and Karl Fogel for their help in supplying us with a book scanner and enabling this project to get off the ground.
You are welcome to download, print, and pretty much do what you want with the scan for your own personal purposes. Feel free to post a link or a copy on your blog or website. All we ask is a link back to the original project and this blog. We are not answering requests for commercial downloads or reprinting at this time.


• Click to Download Vol.4 - No. 161 •





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Categories: Hand Tools

"Having a rip blade and crosscut blade on the same saw was a boon; the speed of cut is dramatic and..."

Giant Cypress - Thu, 04/16/2015 - 3:08am
“Having a rip blade and crosscut blade on the same saw was a boon; the speed of cut is dramatic and the finish “off the saw” is very very clean. Although it’s not a magic wand – and if like me you are used to Western tools it does take a while to get used to – I am enjoying using it.”

- Graham Haydon, on using a Gyokucho 651 240mm ryoba on a Craftsman style low table he’s working on. And before you think he’s just another Japanese tool fanboy, he’s well-steeped in western woodworking traditions, being a joiner from a small town in the southwest part of England and all that.

Winding Sticks #3 – Inlay

goatboy's woodshop - Thu, 04/16/2015 - 1:56am

ws6

With the two winding sticks planed to their final dimensions, it’s time for the inlay.

ws7

 

I chose ebony and maple inlay, to provide a nice contrast. This will make it easier to sight up any twist when using the sticks. Both sticks will have an ebony centre dot, so that they can be placed roughly centrally on the workpiece. This will ensure that any twist shown by the sticks will not be due to balancing issues.

 

ws8One of the sticks will have a strip of ebony running along the top, and the other will have two tabs, equidistant from its middle. I used the hinge trick of roughly dimensioning a small piece of ebony and then hammering it through a hole in a hinge to create dowels. It was then a simple matter of boring a hole through the centre of both sticks, superglueing a dowel in each, then sawing and planing them flush.

ws9

 

For the ebony strip, I did not have a pice of ebony long enough, so I had to use three shorter pieces. I cut a rebate, using a knife, along the top of the stick, then glued the inlay in position with wood glue. The inlay was held in place with masking tape until the glue was dry, then I could plane it flush.

 

ws11The maple tabs were made my ripping a small piece of scrap down to size then cutting two tabs with the sides at a 1:7 angle. I did this by using my dovetail template to mark a scrap piece of wood, and then cut into that wood creating a mitre block, which when held in the vise, guided my saw when cutting the tabs.

I was able to use my shop made marking gauge to mark out the recesses for the tabs, which were chopped out with a chisel. Once glued in place, the tabs were planed flush, and the winding sticks were ready for their finish.

 


Filed under: Projects Tagged: ebony, inlay, maple, winding sticks

first table hiccup.......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 04/16/2015 - 1:20am
Paul Seller's new Master Woodworking class is on making a table. His is just shy of 6' and mine will be about 6' 6". More importantly he is flattening rough sawn wood to make the top. He is dealing with twist, humps, and hollows. Along the way he has to be mindful of the thickness of the wood and how much the planing is reducing it. All the things I was looking at when I flattened my twisted board. Except mine was not rough sawn. I'll be watching this again.

no stupid wood tricks
This was a good sign. I just eyeballed this stock but none of it appears to have moved overnight on me. I'll do a quick check of it again before I use it.

the back apron twisted a little
I didn't check this board for twist before I milled it but I'm sure that it was flat and twist free. I didn't feel/see any twist when I ran it through the tablesaw when I ripped it to rough width. There is a slight twist in it now. It is even at the ends with the drawer apron but not on the width.

my longest reasonable straight edge
This is my level from when I was hanging doors. It is the longest straight (?) piece of anything that I have. I am using it here to see if there are a hollows or humps in the aprons.  On the back apron there is a hump on the bottom and a hollow on the top. I made the bottom straight and flat and did the same dance step on the drawer apron. I then ran the opposite edges through the table saw. Now the width of both are almost dead even. What little they are off I'm sure I can work around it.

aprons clamped so I can do some layout for the drawer runners and tilt rail
knife mark on the bottom across the back and front rail
knife mark for the center of the tilt rail
my first hiccup
I made the mortises for the drawer rails on the wrong side. I didn't do the tilt rail mortise because I haven't cut the stock for that yet. That's what my saved my butt from not having two more hiccups here.

some 3/8 poplar to plug the mortises
I thought of making through mortises but I decided to go with plugs. This is going to be painted and there will be some overhang of the top casting a shadow. Maybe some of the drawer overlay will help obscure it too.

first one plugged and glued
I used hide glue on this only because when I opened the cabinet it was in front of the yellow glue bottle.

shaved this one too much
I sawed these a bit fat and trimmed them with the chisel. I want a tight fit on all four edges. I have plenty of this stock and I sawed a new piece off.

all plugged
This isn't too bad of a hiccup and it was an easy fix. I still don't know how I missed not seeing that all the other mortises were gone. But I was in a hurry to get this done so I could go watch Master Woodworking class. You would think after all these years of making this same screw up because I was in a hurry I would know better.

trimmed one flush
This will be hidden and unseen. I'll put some putty on it to close up the slight gaps and with a couple of coats of paint only me and my shadow will know it's there.

I got the deadline tonight. My daughter and son-in-law are leaving on June 15th for North Carolina. The movers will be coming the week before. This means I lost a week or maybe more because the moving date isn't cast in stone yet. I'll be a busy boy for sure this weekend.

accidental woodworker  day 6 - now with only 30 days left

trivia corner
Where did Robert Fulton launch his first steamboat?
answer - on the Seine river in Paris France in 1803 -  it sank

Picture This XLVIII

Pegs and 'Tails - Wed, 04/15/2015 - 11:02pm
The design of these Windsor chairs shares much in common with the Claremont chairs I made in early 2013. Fig. 1. Ash and elm fan-back Windsor chairs, circa 1750. (Michael Pashby) Fig. 2. Characteristic D-shape saddled seat with rear brace … Continue reading
Categories: Hand Tools

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by Dr. Radut