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The Barn on White Run - Sun, 03/31/2024 - 4:24am

Categories: Hand Tools

sunshine finally......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 03/31/2024 - 3:15am

 After two days of rain it was nice to see the sun and blue skies again. This coming thursday has the possibility of snow. April is rainy for may flowers as the saying goes. I remember a blizzard after Easter when I was a kid. No school that day but I had to walk in the white crap the next day to get to it.

I'm thinking of walking in the AM vice after lunch. I do like walking then but it screws up the shop time. Lunch and the walk eats up about 2 hours or so and if I do it in the morning I can go back to the shop after lunch. I might try it out in the AM tomorrow. It is getting lighter now so I won't be stressed with walking in semi darkness.


I thought I had to take off the table to check the top and bottom wheels are coplanar. This is a straight piece of quarter sawn stock and it is touching both wheels. This was a quickie check and I'll use my 6 foot level to check it again. 

 last night

I came back to the shop last night to get a book and ended up finishing the dovetailing for this drawer. This drawer is the crappiest one I've done so far. I have gaps on all the tails/pins. I glued it up but I don't think that is going to close up any of them.

made a boatload of slips

I made two each for the remaining four drawers. I am going to use 1/4" (5.2 mm) plywood for all the drawers. 1/4" is stronger than 1/8" as I don't know what tools (how heavy) I'll be putting in the drawers.


I can get one drawer out of one slip length. Luck has returned to the shop.

 dry fit

Did better on these dovetails. I found the cause of the gaps on the last drawer. I used the wrong marking gauge for the tail baselines. Drawer fits on the left but not the right.

 20 minutes later

20 minutes after gluing up the drawer I glued the slips in.

 what a )&^%@#(^%Q*_)@^%* PITA

This drawer gave me fits trying to get it into the opening. I still need to improve on fitting drawers to their openings. I'm good at the left front and I have a gap on the right. The drawer frustrated me because it kept binding only after the drawer was 1/2 way in. I couldn't see anything obvious looking at the back so I erred on the side of caution and 2 swipes and I checked it again. Wash, curse, rinse, curse, and repeat.

3 of 7

One more will put me over the hump. As is only 3 more drawers to go. I thought I would get the two on the left done today but that didn't happen boys and girls.

over the hump

I am getting excited about finishing this. I can already see a huge improvement over the one I made for daughter #1. 

 dovetail layout

Ran out of time here. After my walk I had gone out with my wife for an hour or so. It was too close to 1500 here and I didn't want to start the pin sockets and have to quit them unfinished.

 I have enough

I wasn't sure if I had enough of the sizes I needed. I decided to use the size on the bottom for all the drawers. I've been wracking my brain trying to remember where I got these from. It was bag of a 100 in several sizes and it was dirt cheap. I'm kicking myself now for not buying a couple of bags. There isn't anyone selling shaker knobs anymore that I can find. At least not like this almost empty bag.

ready for the AM

If I don't come back after dinner this drawer is laid out and ready saw and chop the tails/pins.

accidental woodworker

Why are there no wooden block planes?

Working By Hand - Sat, 03/30/2024 - 7:12am

The modern metal block plane was an artefact of the Victorian period. I mean different types of small metal planes did exist before then, like the British chariot plane, but they did not evolve from some wooden plane forerunner. The size of wooden planes has always been limited by the material they were made of – wood. Small wooden planes can be constructed, but their function would be constrained by the natural limitations of the wood. This is the reason why you won’t see many wooden block planes, even in places where wooden planes are quite common, e.g. Germany.

One of the main reasons for the lack of wooden block planes lies in their construction. Wooden planes typically use a bevel-down blade configuration. In a bevel-down plane, the blade typically rests on a 45° wooden bed. Because the bevel sits behind the edge, the cutting angle is fixed at 45°, even though the bevel on the blade could be 25°. This is not a great angle for planing end-grain with a block plane. Bevel-down planes have limits to their bed angles (ca. 35°) before clearance becomes a real issue. Block planes, on the whole use a bevel-up configuration. In a typical low-angle metal block plane, the blade is bevel-up, where the bevel leads into the cut, contributing to the cutting angle. If the bed is low, typically 12°, the effective cutting angle becomes 37° once the blade angle of 25° is factored in (a much better angle for end grain). The bevel-up design was introduced to lower the bed-angle in order to make end-grain planing easier, because it minimizes tearing end-grain. A “normal” metal block plane with a bed of 20° + 25° blade will create a 45° cutting angle.

Fig.1: Bevel-down versus bevel-up

Now, it is possible to have low angled bed in a metal plane because the integrity of the metal body structure allows it. For example the precursor to the block plane, the metal chariot plane often had bed angles of 12-16°. However it is almost impossible to reproduce low bed angles in most woods, due to the tenuous nature of the material – therefore it is nigh impossible to have a wooden bevel-up block plane. Figure 2 shows a mock-up of a wooden block plane with a normal 20° bed, and explains some of the structural issues. In the tool epitome Antique Woodworking Tools, by David R. Russell, there are two planes (a late 19th C. chariot plane and an 1830’s mitre plane), both made of boxwood that have pitch’s of 21° and 20° respectively. The caveat is that both are reinforced with metal near the mouth of the plane.

Fig.2: A cross-section of a low-angle block plane (with a 20° bed) constructed of wood. The plane cheeks would become quite fragile, and subject it to splitting due to the wedging forces required to secure the blade. The bed near the plane mouth would also be quite weak.

If you look through one of the older E. C. Emmerich catalogues (1930-1950s) from Germany, there is little or no mention of a wooden block plane. At some point one did appear in the catalog, and is still made today, the 649-P Pocket plane. It is likely one of the few modern attempts at a wooden block plane, and is unique in that it’s blade is bedded at 50º (York pitch), ideally suited to hardwoods. But the lack of low-angle block planes in Germany meant that American-style metal block planes were utilized from early on (this may have been why Kunz, was so successful in manufacturing metal planes in Germany).

Categories: Hand Tools

drawers, and more drawers.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 03/30/2024 - 3:18am

 Spent a good portion of the morning getting the 4 1/2 ready to ship out. It didn't need a lot of work as it was my daily user. It is almost done and the only hang up is giving the paint as chance to set up and harden. I also sold the three Rockford/Marsh planes - R3, R5C, and the R 5 1/2. Rockford used R where Stanley used No. I will have to go to UPS and buy a box to ship them in.

warming up the 4 1/2

The heat is still coming on as the overnight temps are still within a few degrees of freezing. The heat was on when I took this off to apply the 2nd coat and I put it back on after I finished that. 

couldn't wait

I was going to wait and fit the drawers after all of them were done. I was going into withdrawal not knowing how this would fit. Started cleaning the sides and checking that fit first. It is way too easy to get lost in La La Land and plane too much off the wrong side or top/bottom. I have the back open so I can insert it as much as possible and then look at it from the back to see where it is binding.

 making progress

I did two planing ops and the drawer was fitting about 1/2 way. 


The fits and slides in albeit not easily. It didn't bind going in but it did on the way out.

 one more planing op

No longer snug but it also isn't loose. I quit here and put the drawer aside. I'll do any final fitting/planing after I get the finish on the carcass.

 still holding

The trick of using hair spray on the handle is working great. I sprayed them last year and it is still ticking like a Timex watch. I wonder how long the can will last? Will it go south before I have to use it again?

 first top drawer

I went back and forth on how many tails to use on this drawer and settled on one big one. If I had used one full tail and two half ones they would have been too thin for my liking.

 first me-steak

I fumbled too much marking this tail onto the pin board. My reward is the joint is loose. Not a little loose but loose as in it can't stay in place on its own. Trying to mark the tail off the pin socket isn't worth the calories. I have done it before and I wasn't thrilled the results. I will keep it as is and deal with it at glue up time.

top drawer slips

Made the slips for both drawers. I had to dig through the pile of scraps to find two pieces long enough for the front ones.

 first dry fit

No problems with the back - I copied what I had done for the big middle drawer. Three corners are snug fitting but corner #3 is loose and glue ain't going to swell it shut.

 the red headed, stuttering step child

Not only is it loose fitting top/bottom, it is loose front to back. It needs to be pulled/pushed forward and have the slopes filled in.

 snug as bug in a rug

The joint is well fitting and snug. I could have probably gotten away with just one shim but two tightened it up a lot more.

 Lee Valley order

I needed a new blade for the bandsaw but that was out of stock. I'll be getting that after the 12th of April. I bought the extension cord because it is 12gauge and cheap. It was $16.50 which is about the cost of a lot of 14 gauge cords. A couple of spare cutters for my string in lay tool and 4 files for sharpening saws filled out this order.

 I'm square

The dry fit was less than a 16th off on the diagonals. Since I'm planing this to fit the opening, this is good enough.


I didn't pay attention to the labels. This left side of the back should have been on the right. The drawer opening is tapered on the top and the gap is because of that.

 glued and cooking

The drawer is glued and I got the slips sawn and fitted too. I will glue the slips after the drawer has set up. I didn't have any hiccups getting the shims inserted in the tail/pin. I was able to bottom out one and maybe 3/4 of the second one. Tomorrow I'll wick some super glue into them to further strengthen it.

 second me-steak

I used the wrong marking gauge on these. I could shorten the tails but that would make the sides short. I sawed all the sides on every drawer to the same length.

 two extras

I didn't see any labels on these so I used them to make two new sides. 

 me-steak #3?

Is this a me-steak or a quirk in the wood? It split when I was chiseling the vertical wall on the right. I glued it and set it aside to cook.


Maybe I dodged the silver bullet. The drawer is a slip fit on the left and is a frog hair proud on the right. I got the slips glued and the bottom fitted.

Decided to kill the lights here (it was after 1500). The dumb me-steaks I did were a sign for me to leave the shop before I really did something stupid.

accidental woodworker

Graham Blackburn

Journeyman's Journal - Fri, 03/29/2024 - 7:00pm

Graham Blackburn, a luminary in the world of woodworking, has left an indelible mark on the craft. Graham embarked on his illustrious woodworking journey over forty years ago. His passion for the craft led him to create custom furniture, write and illustrate books, and share his expertise through teaching and speaking engagements. His dedication to traditional handtool woodworking has left an indelible mark on the woodworking community, inspiring artisans and enthusiasts alike.

Let us delve into the rich tapestry of his life and contributions:

  1. Early Years and Passion for Woodworking:
    • Born with an innate curiosity and a love for craftsmanship, Graham Blackburn embarked on his woodworking journey.
    • His fascination with wood, tools, and the art of shaping raw materials into functional and beautiful objects became the cornerstone of his life’s work.
  2. Mastering Traditional Techniques:
    • Blackburn’s path diverged from the mainstream. He chose to embrace the quiet elegance of traditional handtool woodworking.
    • Rejecting the noise of power tools, he honed his skills using chisels, planes, and saws—the very tools that have shaped woodworking for centuries.
    • His dedication to mastering these techniques set him apart as a true artisan.
  3. Authorship and Literary Legacy:
    • Graham Blackburn’s pen was as mighty as his chisel. His authorial prowess enriched the woodworking community.
    • His books, more than a dozen in number, are cherished by woodworkers worldwide. Each volume is a treasure trove of knowledge, covering topics from joinery to design principles.
    • As a contributing editor for Fine Woodworking and a regular contributor to Popular Woodworking, he shared practical insights and artistic inspiration.
  4. Editorial Leadership:
    • At the helm of Woodwork magazine, Blackburn wielded his editorial wand. His vision transformed pages into portals of creativity.
    • Through interviews, profiles, and tutorials, he championed the spirit of craftsmanship. His editorial choices resonated with seasoned woodworkers and novices alike.
  5. Teaching and Mentorship:
    • Blackburn’s generosity extended beyond the written word. He became a mentor, guiding aspiring woodworkers towards excellence.
    • In the serene enclave of Woodstock, NY, he conducted workshops. Here, students immersed themselves in the tactile world of hand tools, learning not just technique but reverence for the craft.
    • Safety, precision, and the joy of creating with one’s hands were the lessons etched into the hearts of those fortunate enough to learn from him.
  6. Legacy and Inspiration:
    • Graham Blackburn’s legacy endures. His influence ripples through workshops, studios, and quiet corners where wood shavings fall.
    • He reminds us that woodworking is more than a trade—it is an art form. It is the dance of grain and edge, the marriage of form and function.

In the symphony of woodworking, Graham Blackburn’s notes resonate—a timeless melody that echoes through generations of artisans.

Now that you’re familiar with the man, I’ve watched some of his videos, and they provide valuable insights into hand tools. As is typical with YouTube content, these videos cater to beginners. Nevertheless, I watch them in the hope of discovering new knowledge. Lo and behold, I did just that when I stumbled upon the ‘Fundamentals of a Handsaw’ video.

In the video, he discussed the concept of saw set and its relationship to the Teeth Per Inch (TPI) of a handsaw. Below, you’ll find an excerpt from my question in the comments, along with his prompt response.

“You mentioned that the numbers on the sawset represent the ppi on the saw. However, the contrary is true. It is widely taught and accepted that the numbers do not correspond to the ppi on a saw. Do you have any evidence to refute this claim, and what is your source?”

Graham’s response: “Some metal sawsets have rotating anvils with multifacetted faces at different angles numbered to conform to the expected angle of set for saws with that number of TPI for the individual saw. Not perhaps what is always required, which is why I explained the process of diminishing the produced set after setting with a file.”

Interestingly, this is the first time I’ve encountered this concept. Traditionally, I’ve believed the opposite, as it aligns with what we’ve been taught over the years. However, could we be mistaken, and perhaps Graham is onto something? I remain uncertain because he hasn’t substantiated his claim with historical evidence or cited the source of his knowledge, as I requested. I’ll provide the video link below for you to watch and form your own conclusions.

The part on the sawset starts at 11:00mins

I recently read Traditional Jigs & Fixtures for Handtools, one of his books, and found it to be brilliantAdditionally, I’ll provide you with the link to his book store.

You can explore more of Graham Blackburn’s woodworking resources and books on his website. If you’re interested in other titles, feel free to check them out! 

Categories: Hand Tools

Happy Easter…

Pegs and Tails - Fri, 03/29/2024 - 12:24pm
…and my sincere apologies! Jack Plane
Categories: Hand Tools

Happy Easter…

Pegs and 'Tails - Fri, 03/29/2024 - 12:24pm
…and my sincere apologies! Jack Plane
Categories: Hand Tools

I Go To Pieces

Giant Cypress - Fri, 03/29/2024 - 9:38am

I picked up this Japanese plane from eBay for a completely different reason than what I’m highlighting in this post. When it arrived, I was a bit surprised by the body of the plane, as it was made in a way that I had heard about, but never had seen in person. I didn’t anticipate this, because of low-res pictures on the eBay listing.

The body of this plane was not a single piece of wood, as usual. Instead, it was laminated together from multiple pieces of wood. Here’s a closeup of the top.

Here’s the bottom of the plane.

And a view from the end of the plane.

Taking a close look at the side, there’s evidence of machine-made finger joints for the end-to-end connections between the pieces.

Without any other information, my guess is that this plane body was made from a piece of butcher block countertop, or something like that. I don’t think this is a usual method of making planes, as I’ve not run across this in over a dozen years looking at used plane auctions. And no Japanese tool seller that I know of offers plane bodies made like this.

The plane works pretty well, though. I gave it a try on a scrap piece of walnut without conditioning the sole or any of the usual Japanese plane set up procedures, because I was impatient. It still pulled nice shavings and left a nice surface on the walnut.

It will be interesting to see how this plane works once I actually set it up.

Top Twenty (Teisco) Bass Restoration: 2

A Luthiers Blog - Fri, 03/29/2024 - 9:06am

 In this video, the bass is stripped down and some of its secrets revealed! It gets its re-fret which, as predicted, is far from straight forward!

spoke too soon.......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 03/29/2024 - 3:18am

 I got an email this AM asking to buy the Stanley 4 1/2. In fact, I got a second email after the first one asking for it too. That totally surprised me as I was prepping to post them on Saw Mill Creek. I'm in no hurry to sell them but I still would like to see them go quickly. That will lessen the trauma on me from someone else adopting my toys.

doesn't fit

The drawer went together off the saw and as it should, it doesn't fit the opening.

 flushing the corners

That is all I did right now. I still have to plane this to fit the drawer opening. I don't want to take off too much leveling the top/bottom and giving me gaps later on.

 wee bit more

The drawer now goes into the opening over an inch now just from flushing the corners.

 slips and bottom fitted

Did you hear the huge sigh of relief? That was me after seeing I had done the back of the drawer correctly. I plan on leaving the side slips running long until the glue up has set up. This here was a dry run and fit.

 glued and cooking

The dovetails on the back were dicey because I had knifed the tails on the ends of it initially. I missed one knife life and ended up with a gap. I'll get a shim in it in the AM.

drats, and double drats

One of the slips broke one me when I was pushing the bottom in. Had to take a step back and make new ones. Rather than trying to match the one side to the new one I decided to make two new ones.

wash, rinse, and repeat

5 more drawers to fit. Got the top left front/back fitted. Same dance steps for the remaining.

last one

Tomorrow I'll start dovetailing the drawers. The 4 bottom drawers (R/L) I will use 1/8" plywood for the bottoms. The two top drawers I am leaning in the direction of 1/4" plywood because of the R/L length of the drawers. They aren't deep at about 7" but I think 17" R/L is a bit too much for 1/8" plywood.

 prepping the 4 1/2

The first step is to take the plane down to parade rest and clean everything with Simple Green. After that I'll address any rust issues.

this sucks

There was something on the plane that the Simple Green wouldn't clean away. I gently scraped it and the paint came off down to the gray primer coat. It appears that I will be doing some paint touch up.

 just a little

I've been lucky in my shop with rust issues. I don't have any headaches with it. It has been a few years since I last broke this plane down and this is it for rust. I'll hit the studs with the wire wheel and I'll oil all the hardware.

I'm off to a dead people's thing with my wife. She is giving a talk on something and I'm going along for company. I don't like her driving after the sun goes down.

accidental woodworker

Trip(s) to Lumberyard

JKM Woodworking - Thu, 03/28/2024 - 10:22pm

The goal when starting my small dresser project was to use up some of my scrap and not have to purchase anything. So far I’ve had to purchase some pine at the big box store, and now I’ve taken a trip to the lumberyard. And I still don’t have the plywood for the drawer bottoms.

I remember reading someone’s description on reddit that there’s two kinds of lumberyards. Some sell to professionals and won’t give you the time of day. And some cater to hobbyists and are friendly and helpful. The trick is to find the right one. I have found that to be true. I had only been to this lumberyard once before, but it’s my new favorite.

When I first started buying hardwood, I looked for wood species that had a reputation for being easy to work with handtools. The shortlist was poplar, cherry, walnut, and soft maple. My current lumberyard has those, along with harder woods like oak, elm, and locust.

They keep the boards stacked on end, so you can pivot and shuffle the boards to see their faces.

sassafras bin

I do not worry about calculating board feet, but do try to itemize the pieces I need. For example a tabletop would require enough boards to glue up a top, some narrower aprons, and some thick legs. And if the top is 20″ wide, I’ll have to decide to glue up two 10″ wide boards, vs three or more narrower boards.


My current lumberyard sells ‘shorts’ less than four feet for a discount. There are at least four bins like this. I rarely need pieces longer than four feet, so they are always worth a look.

For this visit I only needed some basswood for drawer sides. But I stocked up for future projects that are far enough along to have an idea of how much wood I’d need. The big purchases are cherry, ash, and sassafras. Other purchases are impulse buys or just to add to the stockpile.

i only needed a piece of basswood

This picture shows the first days haul. From left to right is walnut, butternut, basswood, sassafras, ash, and cherry. Yes I drive a small car. If I fold down the seats I can get nine foot long boards stretching from the passenger dashboard to the trunk. Boards usually fit ok. Sheet goods are a problem.

After a few weeks I made a second trip. I miscalculated or miscut some sassafras pieces so had to go get one or two more.

i only needed a piece of sassafras

Left to right is hickory, catalpa, white oak, ash, sassafras, basswood, and a funky piece of sycamore. The sycamore was free, an odd sized offcut they were giving away. Catalpa has been on my shortlist of woods to try. I figured I might as well buy it since I might never see it again. The wood database says it’s carveable and weather resistant so I might cut off a few ends to try some outdoor carvings.

Hopefully I won’t have to go back soon.

A list of projects in various stages of gestation:

  • Small Dresser – poplar, sycamore
  • Coffee Table – sassafras, ash
  • Printer Stand – walnut, butternut
  • Hall Table – cherry
  • Splay Legged Table – butternut, ash
  • Splay Legged Table 2 – walnut, hickory
  • Splay Legged Table 3 – basswood, southern yellow pine
  • Five Board Bench – white oak

Now to stop planning more projects and actually get to building.

Categories: General Woodworking

What’s on My Workbench? A New Double/Composite Top Classical Guitar

Wilson Burnham Guitars - Thu, 03/28/2024 - 10:00am

The latest guitar on my workbench is a double top, or composite top, classical guitar, Western Red Cedar top with a Nomex core that is covered with a veneer of old growth Coastal Redwood.

I used a wider cell honeycomb Nomex on this guitar to see how a lighter top will respond under string tension.

I changed up the bracing pattern for this guitar, just five struts…

…and the two outer struts pass underneath the lower transverse bar. 

I use lots of clothes pins to clamp the back linings to the sides.

I cut up an old tire inner tube to use as “rope” to glue on the back.

The top bindings went on this morning, the back bindings were glued on yesterday, the fretboard is next and then the bridge. 

If you want to read more about this guitar, go to my Substack page!

Categories: Hand Tools, Luthiery

@julietwiskey1 — this a running joke I haven’t done in a while. When I first started woodworking,…

Giant Cypress - Thu, 03/28/2024 - 5:28am




I teach the OCIA class at St. Bartholomew, our church. For this year’s group, I made some pens as gifts. The pen blanks are all some sort of unidentified Brazilian hardwood.

The first step in making these pens is to cut the pen blanks into two pieces, and I used my dozuki for that. I forgot that you can’t use Japanese saws on hardwoods, much less tropical species.

Lovely, yes, hardwood is brutal on Japanese saws….

Is that because Japanese saws tend to have high teeth per inch counts or for some other reason?

@julietwiskey1 — this a running joke I haven’t done in a while. When I first started woodworking, Japanese tools had a reputation in the US/European hobbyist woodworking world for only being suitable for use in softwoods, and therefore not suitable for “real” woodworking. I knew that wasn’t the case, as evidenced by the fact that Japanese woodworking can and does use hardwood species, including those from Southeast Asia, like various rosewoods.

Besides covering this topic in my talks and articles on Japanese tools, I have a running joke here on Giant Cypress where I would post work that I or (usually) other people have done with Japanese tools and hardwood species, and comment that “so-and-so doesn’t know that you can’t use Japanese tools on hardwoods.”

In the time I’ve been writing about Japanese tools, I like to think that I was able to help put that myth to rest, and it does seem to me that this sort of chatter has died down somewhat over the years. As a result, I haven’t done this gag in a while. Recently, however, the “Japanese tools can’t be used on hardwoods” trope has popped up on my radar. Maybe it’s time to break out the running joke again.

no interest.....

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 03/28/2024 - 3:31am

 The post for the 4 1/2 has been up for two days and so far zero interest in buying it. The post itself has gotten a lot of hits though. I don't think it is over priced. I paid a $125 for it and spent about 3-4 hours rehabbing it so I'm taking a loss on it. I knew this before I put it up for sale. I intend/want to sell the rest of the herd on the same price model. I want them to go to someone else who will use them. In my shop they will just be gathering dust.

I looked to selling them on eBay but the fees are boderline prohibitive. I don't think that is going to be viable for me because me selling on it will be a one time thing. I will clean the 4 1/2 and shoot some glamour pics and I'll try it on Saw Mill Creek and see if it moves there. If that doesn't work maybe I should think about donating them to a woodworking school?

 didn't make it back to the shop

I put this on the bench before I killed the lights. After dinner I started watching Inspector Morse and forgot about going back to the shop. It looks ok and no surprises when I took the clamps off.


I wasn't thinking when I plowed the groove on the vertical stiles. I didn't have to do one on both sides of the two end ones. I glued a piece of pine in them to close it up. I just wanted the ends where the half lap is to be solid - the middle shouldn't be stressed.

first drawer

Got the back fitted and the front was next.

 needs some attention

The 5 1/2 ain't cutting as well as the other LN planes. The shavings from it are torn up and coming out shredded.

 surprised me

The bevel angle is 25° and I was expecting it to be 30°. I also saw why this iron is performing so badly - the edge is chipped in a couple of spots. I touched it up on the extra fine diamond stone followed with some time on the 8K japanese water stone. I'll have to set up sharpening to use water stones because that is the preferred medium for LN plane blades (A2).

 dovetail layout

Made a boo boo initially but I caught it before I did anything stupid. The tails go on the sides and the not the front and back. I am so used to putting the tails on the longest side that muscle memory took over.

 it ain't square

I shoulda, woulda, coulda, but didn't check this for square after I clamped it up. I relied on the half lap joints to square it up and that didn't work. I had to plane (to fit) a slight angle on both ends of this panel ass'y.

 carcass is square

Each end of the panel ass'y was out a few degrees. I checked the carcass first to make sure I wasn't fighting two being out of square.

 panel ass'y fitted

The gap at the top is from the rail being short. The half lap must have shifted in the clamps on me. Gap on the top right corner.

 gap on the bottom left

Not sure what if anything I will do about this. I am not gluing this in at the back so I can't glue a shim in here. I got plenty of time to deal with later on.

 not too noticeable

I'm about 4' away and it doesn't jump out and slap me. But I can still see it. Maybe I should plane a small margin 'gap' on both ends?

 left side from 4'

This is the back and most likely this will be up against a wall. If I plane a gap on the ends would I have to plane one on the top/bottom to match?


I will nail the panel ass'y to these. The two choices in the coin toss are Tremont brad nails or small brad box nails (they have a head).

 hump is gone

I planed the hump square or pretty close to square along this side.


I used brad nails on the right side of the split into the divider below. I wicked super glue into the split. I'll check it tomorrow and I might use some epoxy to fill the split depending upon how well the super glue did.


 got confused

I had to stop and visualize what went were and erase and relabel all the parts. I got stuck on why there weren't any tails on the opposite end of the side. Finally dawned on me that the other side mates with the opposite end of the front. All was well in Disneyland again.

almost kindling

Sawed on the wrong side of the gauge line. It has been a very long time since I have done something like this. I put some veneer in the saw kerf and wicked super glue into it.

 not too shabby

Lost a chip on the 3rd pin from the left but the tails/pins other than that are as snug as a bug in a rug.


The pin/tail to the left of this is the one that shimmed and it looks great. I can't explain how I got a gap this large on this tail/pin. I'll shim this when I glue it up.

 back tails chopped

I am hoping that I did this correctly. I am using slips on all the drawers and I did what I think is the right lay out. The two square 'tails' in the middle will be the go/no go for this. The bottom will be on the top of it with the slip underneath it. Fingers crossed I won't have to redo the center drawer again.


This doesn't look that bad and I'm not a fan of butt joints. I am using 1/4" plywood for the center drawer and this is what the inside would look like. Another decision that doesn't have to be made now.

accidental woodworker

I teach the OCIA class at St. Bartholomew, our church. For this year’s group, I made some pens as…

Giant Cypress - Thu, 03/28/2024 - 3:28am

I teach the OCIA class at St. Bartholomew, our church. For this year’s group, I made some pens as gifts. The pen blanks are all some sort of unidentified Brazilian hardwood.

The first step in making these pens is to cut the pen blanks into two pieces, and I used my dozuki for that. I forgot that you can’t use Japanese saws on hardwoods, much less tropical species.

Top Twenty (Teisco) Bass Restoration: 1

A Luthiers Blog - Wed, 03/27/2024 - 9:05am

This is an introduction to my latest side project: the restoration of vintage mij Top Twenty bass guitar. In this video, I tell you what I know about the bass so far and look some the issues that need to be remedied.

How to Cut a Notch in Wood with Woodworking Hand Tools

Wood and Shop - Wed, 03/27/2024 - 7:30am
How to Cut a Notch in Wood with Woodworking Hand Tools Will Myers shows how to cut a simple notch in a piece of wood using traditional woodworking hand tools   By Joshua Farnsworth  | Published 27 March, 2024 How to Cut a

drawer prep......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 03/27/2024 - 3:26am

 I got all the stock prepped for the drawers. That was the last thing I did before killing the lights. I thought I would get to maybe one drawer done but it didn't happen boys and girls. Started feeling crappy after lunch and it didn't improve any when I went on my walk. I made it through prepping and said No Mas. This is the 3rd day in a row that I have had this queasy, crappy feeling after lunch. I'll have to change up the menu tomorrow and see if that is the cause.


Before I can do the drawers I have to do the back. That is needed because the back will determine the depth of the opening and the length of the drawer sides.


No bridle joints or miters. Instead I'm going to half lap at the corners and the vertical stiles.

 road test

No differences in the Grizzly tenon jig vice my old Delta one. I do like the provision for the sacrificial  vertical stop - that was lacking on the Delta. I used the Grizzly to do the half laps for the corners and the stiles.

sawing the shoulders

I chose the tablesaw and the Grizzly because I didn't want to devote a lot of time doing this by hand only.

 good fit

This side of the half lap won't be seen after it is installed in the back. I plan on gluing the half laps together and then I will nail the frame to the back. This way it can taken off if any repairs are needed down the road.

 stile half laps

I labeled which face gets the waste removed from. Sawed the shoulders and then cleaned it out with a router.

 one vertical stile fitted

Got a good fit on this one and it is flush.

dry fit of the frame

I could have used one more small C clamp but I managed without it. I got a snug fit of the frame and it was on to making panel inserts.

 gappy fit

Fortunately for me this isn't the show face. I had a stray line and I didn't lay this one against the other to check it. Paid the price with ugly gaps on either side of it.

 back dry fitted

This will get nailed in place after the drawers are made and fitted. I didn't have any 1/8" baltic birch plywood and I had to use this chinese crap. The last time I put shellac on it, the plywood turned green. I got 12 more sheets on order that is B/BB grade 1/8" baltic birch ply. That price has almost doubled since the last time I bought it.

bought six

This is a replacement for the metal insert. It is still available on ereplacements but it costs $40. These are made by Carter and I didn't know that they were made by them.

sibling is MIA

I can't remember where I put the second one of these. I looked in the 3 spots that I hold things like this until I need them but came up empty. These clips are $10 plus $10 for S/H. I'll put on my Sherlock Holmes hat and cape before I buy another one. In which the MIA one would probably mysteriously appear.

 back glued and cooking

I'll take this out of the clamps after dinner and check the fit. You'll have to wait another day to read about it.

 drawers prepped

Fronts, backs, and sides sawn slightly oversized. Still haven't decided on the drawer bottoms. I will use slips regardless of the the bottom choice.


The side goes in about 1/2 way on the right and won't fit the opening at all on the left.

 opposite side

The left side easily fits the opening front to back. The right side won't fit. The left to right is off a strong 32nd. On the other side drawer opening is shy of a 32nd off. The vertical ends are square which is a point in my favor. I will plane the drawer to fit and I'm sure that will take a few dance steps.

accidental woodworker

Handplanes What a Passion! English Edition!

Woodworking By Hand - Tue, 03/26/2024 - 12:11pm


Hello everyone,

It is my pleasure to introduce you to the English edition of my book on hand planes. A few years ago, the Italian edition, "Pialle che Passione," was released. The book has been successful in Italy, and from the outset, I had thought of producing an English version to reach a wider audience of enthusiasts.

The title clearly explains the motivations that led me to write it: "Handplanes What a Passion" is available on Amazon in both paperback and hardcover (see links below). I'll leave you with the description of the contents:

The handplane is perhaps the tool that most vividly embodies, in the collective imagination, the image of a carpenter, the master craftsman capable of transforming a rough piece of wood into highly valuable artefacts. In reality, the plane plays a central role in traditional woodworking processes, accompanying the craftsman through every phase of furniture construction, from roughing the boards to smoothing the surfaces ready for the final finish. Handplanes What a Passion! is a book entirely dedicated to hand planes for woodworking. The author, a passionate user of this tool, reviews both contemporary and historical models, delving into their histories and illustrating the diverse possibilities offered by this highly versatile tool. The book covers planing techniques to guide the reader through the process of smoothing wooden surfaces, as well as the creation of rebates, grooves, and mouldings. A significant portion of the book is dedicated to the restoration of vintage models and the construction of key wooden handplanes that can be crafted by hand.



Available on Amazon worldwide:

Categories: Hand Tools

Stanley 4 1/2.......

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 03/26/2024 - 3:52am

 Type 5-8

This plane has been my daily user for over 6+ years. I have decided to sell my herd of rehabbed planes and this is the 2nd one being offered. I am not a collector even though I have about 15 planes that will be offered up for new homes. I have Stanley, Miller Falls, Union, and Rockford/Marsh planes coming up next.

I had trouble typing this plane because it fits into 4 different ones very neatly. I thought it was a type 7 but after using the typing chart this AM I'm not so sure. So I am saying it is one of types from 5 up to 8. As far as I know all the parts are original except for the iron. All parts except for one washer (it was missing) are what was on the plane when I got it and rehabbed it.

all the bits are here

I swapped out the steel screw on the handle's toe for a brass one because I like shiny brass. Plus it looks better against the handle. Which is intact and hasn't been broken and glued back together. If you want the steel screw let me know and I'll ship one with the plane.

 in IMO...

Whatever type this plane is, this is the best feature of it or any other Stanley plane type. The frog seat is wide and stable and I don't see why or how Stanley didn't use this till the end of plane production.

 brass toe screw

This will be shined up for whomever buys this. I will also clean up and make her presentable for the new owner.


The sole is in good shape with no rust pits, scratches, gouges, or dings. I never used this plane on a shooting board so I can't attest for the cheeks being square to the sole.

 RML shavings

After I put the plane back together I spit out even (width, thickness, and length) Right, Middle, and Left shavings. I never had a disappointing planing experience with her.


Full length and width shaving. I creased it in half so it would lay out flat against the stock I planed it off.

 wispy too

No effort to make shavings so thin you can see through them.

I am selling this for the reason stated above plus the fact that I am now using my Lie Nielsen 4 1/2 again. I had bought the LN 4 1/2 before I got the Stanley 4 1/2. I got bit by the Stanley bug and that is all I used for years. I went all out with Stanley for over ten years. I am now down sizing and selling the Stanley herd. 

The price is $130, shipping included to anywhere in the lower 48. Outside of that I'm sad to say that it is on your dime.

I am offering it first on my blog to those who take the time to read my keyboard diarrhea. The email is rjboumenot at gmail dot com. If I get more one I'll take it, the earliest time stamp wins the prize.

accidental woodworker


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