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Any time I rehab an old tool, I think about whether or not to leave as much patina as I can.  In the past I've been more in the camp of trying to make it look like new, shining up the brass and other metal parts and cleaning the wood thoroughly.  Lately though, I've been more apt to just make it useable and keep it looking like it is 100 or more years old.

With this old moving fillister, though, there was enough work required to get it fettled properly that I decided to clean it up all the way.  This is a #68 Sandusky moving fillister plane that initially looked like it was in pretty good shape.  The only thing obviously wrong was that the nicker iron was missing.

Overview

Markings on the front

Close-up of the right side showing depth stop and the dado that should house a nicker

The heel end stamped with former caretaker H. W. Campbell

The 1 5/8" wide iron was in pretty decent shape

This shows the angle of the cutting edge required due to the skew of the iron in the plane

There was a little damage to the aft end of the boxing - not enough for me to worry about

I started with the body of the plane, specifically the sole.  I was mainly checking to see if it was flat, but what I saw was a HUGE amount of twist!  I had to plane that out and it didn't take long.  Then I looked at the right side, which I wanted to be square to the sole.  It too had a HUGE amount of twist, so I planed that out, too.  Planing those two surfaces and making them square to each other had the additional benefit of crispening up the corner between the two.

Plane held in vise upside down, winding sticks showing twisted sole

Plane lying on its left side and winding sticks show twist on right side

Got both surfaces twist free, flat and square to each other

While I was planing, I also flattened the fence (only the face that mates with the plane's sole) and made the edge that rides on the work square to that face.

Squaring up the fence

Cleaned up the brass inserts and screws

Planing the surfaces that I did leads to predictable consequences.  First, since the fence is now a little thinner, the screws holding it to the body bottomed out in their holes before tightening the fence completely.  I didn't want to deepen the screw holes, so I added washers that would bear against the fence's brass and that fixed the problem.  But now the screw heads protrude just a little bit beyond the bottom of the fence.  Not really a problem - it just doesn't sit upright as stably as before.

Second, planing the right side of the plane body made it so that the dado that would hold the new nicker iron was not as deep.  Before planing I had measured it at .137" deep.  The steel I'm using to make a new nicker is .125" thick, so I thought I might have to use a shim to get the cutter to be at the level of the plane's surface.  But I planed enough off the right side that the .125" thick nicker would have been proud of the surface.  I ended up routing the bottom of the dado to make the cutter level with the surface.

The dado for the nicker.  Note how it is tapered in its length as well as its depth, getting wider at the bottom.

Some notes about how to make a new nicker

Getting the nicker close to the right shape

But because I planed the right side of the body, the nicker sits too high

So I used a small router to deepen the dado.

To complete the nicker, I hacksawed and filed a notch that allows one to remove it from the plane

Then shaped the cutting edge on the grinder

Then heat-treated and tempered it and gave the edge a final honing

The plane's rabbeting iron didn't need too much work.  After removing any rust with abrasives, I reshaped the cutting edge to mate well with the plane's sole.  Another consequence of planing the right side of the body was that the iron now extended too far out the planes' side.  So I had to grind and file that back to be in line with the plane's side and the nicker.

You can see how much the iron extends past the planes' right side (top in photo)

Grinding a new cutting edge was tricky due to the angle of the edge

You can see the laminated iron in the bevel

First test cut: rabbet cut along the grain - nicker removed

Second test cut: nicker used here to cut a cross-grain rabbet

A couple of test cuts gave nice results.  But I really had to be diligent about pressing the fence against the workpiece when cutting with the grain to avoid getting a rabbet of tapered width.  The small test rabbet cross-grain using the nicker was great.  It really worked well.

After all the work was done, I gave the wood two coats of BLO.  It's been drying 2-3 weeks now, and here's the final product.

Glamour shot

After I use it a while, I might find that the wedge needs work to fit better.  There's a slight gap down near the iron's cutting edge.  It didn't seem to affect the test rabbets, but I'll keep an eye on it.

 Today flew by and before I knew it I was killing the lights in the shop at 1458. I didn't get any major t hings done but I did whack a bunch of little things. I like that time went by so quick I didn't notice. As usual I let my limited attention span drive me down all the side streets today. Thinking my next project will be a desk for Miles. Not looking forward to driving to New Hampshire on a week day. Boston traffic is a PITA and terrifying at the same time. Oh well stercus acidit. 

done

Got the disastrous milk paint frame repainted. Got two coats on the back and front. Tomorrow I will slap 3 coats of shellac on it. Then it will be off to the Frame It Shop. 

sigh....

Shouda, woulda, coulda, but didn't. If I had looked at this frame earlier I could have fixed all the boo boos. I was ready to put shellac on this frame but I found too many hiccups to ignore. Most of it were drips and paint build up on the edges. Scraped the drips, etc and then sanded the frame with 100 grit and repainted it.

hmm.......

Thought of using a sawthooth hanger but nixed it. I would have had to use epoxy to fix it and I didn't have any.  Decided to use screws instead.

it fits

Vertical space of any kind is super tight in the shop. This fits here and there is another space above the thermometer for a sibling. I'll start looking for a couple more of these.

done

I have no idea what you would call these two. Refrigerator magnet art? I bought these somewhere in Maine 10-12 years ago.

this will work

I was going to use a sawtooth hanger when I thought of this instead. I glued the short piece at the top to the back and screwed it to the long bottom piece.

almost ready

I had to file all four screws to shorten them. The two at the top just needed a wee bit and the two in the long bottom piece needed about a 1/8" filed off.

surprise

The screws were solid brass. I was expecting them to be brass plated - that is what I find is prevalent now. Solid brass files easier than the brass plated crap.

hmm......

Happy with how this turned out. Thinking that maybe I should attach a strap or something similar to limit how far the back leg would open. The hinge I used is a stopped hinge that opens to 95°. It is steady as is and when I thumped the bench with a hammer, it stayed in place. I can revisit it if need be so for now it is sans a strap.

two new shadow box frames

Got confused again and plowed the groove before shooting the miters. I should have done the other frames with a groove for the back. 

I like

Dry fit to check the margins and they were spot on. I showed these to my wife and she asked if I was going to mat them. I hadn't considered that at all but I did muse about it for a few. I'll ask Maria about that when I bring the other frames to her. 

glued and cooking

Debating whether or not to paint these two or leave them natural with a shellac finish. Maybe I'll paint one and shellac the other.

Lie Nielsen vise screw

The leg screw was been adopted. I threw in the handle because I don't have any need for it. I don't have anything to fill in the void - I used up all I had shipping out the planes. Bubble wrap at Wally World is $16 and the S/H is going to high enough without adding that to the mix. I'll have to check around the house and see if I can scrounge up some more packing material.

quickie

Whacked a simple shelf before the quitting bell. Made it all with scraps I dug out of the shop shitcan. 

close by now

This is the Stanley depth stop do dad for  auger bits which are right above this. Thinking now that it is done that maybe I should have made it longer R/L?

accidental woodworker

In the aftermath of the snow/sleet/freezing rain/ice/snow adventure of last Sunday you could definitely say we were disheartened at the sight of the collapsed greenhouse.  The broken internal structure was clearly evident, in one place the end of the snapped off arched beam had poked through the plastic skin.  Mrs. Barn rightly insisted on clearing off the ton of ice to assess the damage and get a plan for the reconstruction.

One thing we did not want to do was wail away at the shell and damage the skin even more than it was already.  Finding the right tool was a conundrum.  She tried with one of her gardening tools but it was a poor fit for the problem, plus she was too short to get up high enough to get much done.  I’m taller and with my spiked boots I could get up on the snow/ice dam along the edge of the building.  And fortunately I had just the right tool.

Many years ago my woodworking pal TomS gave me my favorite walking stick, about shoulder length with a bulbous knot near the top.  Since the knot was gentle in shape I could stand and whack the ice until it broke up without risking more damage to the plastic skin.  After about an hour of careful work the last of the ice slabs slipped off and the arched structure popped back to its original shape.    Hallelujah!  You can see that slab leaning up against the greenhouse, it was about six square feet of four-inch-thick ice/snow composite.  It is several hundred pounds.   So even though we have not seen each other in more than a decade, TomS saved the day!

I found just a couple of punctures to the plastic skin and repaired them straightaway.  I still have to build four new laminated arches, but the necessary repair is much less than anticipated.  I’ll get to work on the repairs as soon as we get a bit more warming.

I just checked and the outside temp is 16 and inside the greenhouse it’s nearly 60.

PS.  Here’s a glimpse of what we were dealing with.  We estimate it would have taken a month to clear the six inch thick ice slab on driveway with a pickaxe and shovel.  It was brutal work for us septuagenarians.  Thank goodness for hearty mountain men willing to work all night long in frigid temps with their monster machines.  It was well after 10pm when we finally got to the top of the list.  They finished with us and moved on to the next name on the list.

PPS   A fellow at church told me he had seen some of the Amish kids skating in a field.  Who needs a pond or rink?  We certainly could not navigate our place without snow cleats.

 The storm that threatened my spot in the universe never happened. In the early AM it was cloudy and gray but the sun came out and shined all day long. The snow never came any where near me. The storm went south and than east out to sea. Daughter #2 who lives in North Carolina did get a lot of snow. The grandkids loved it and spent the day sledding. 

back done

Yesterday before I killed the lights I had got one coat of black on the back. This AM I got the 2nd coat on and called it done.

hmm....

Waited until this AM to put on the second coat. The shop temp is steady at 55F/13C so I decided to let the first coat set up overnight. 

hmm.... again

I like the frame/photo on the left. The margins on it are pretty even. The right one is good top/bottom but too wide R/L. I have enough of this small stock to make the right one over. I don't like the uneven margins. These are shadow box frames and the margins, IMO, need to be even all around.

Donna said yes

I made this in May of 2011 after seeing a pic of it. This was my version. I put the boxes I shellaced yesterday in it. I also have a cherry one similar to this - the top drawers are reversed on it. I'm keeping that one for me - hopefully I'll find a hole to hang it over. Donna will be taking this with her when she comes up this way in july.

read the back

This is epoxy but it is a finishing cover like what is used in making epoxy tables. Not sure what the adhesive grip is with it. This was what I was going to use on the next shadow box frame.

checking for square

I eyeballed the margins - the bottom margin is wider than the top. I used marine grade 5 minute epoxy to adhere them to the back. I set it on the radiator in the kitchen to keep it warm while it cures. 

The backs on them are magnetic. I cleaned them with Simple Green, scruffed with 100 grit to give the epoxy a tooth to stick too. Fingers crossed on that and I'll find out in the AM.

accidental woodworker 

 

done

The woodworking at least is done. I had to glue a back on it and then paint it. No shellac for this one.

epoxy failed

The frame fell apart when I took the 45 clamp pads off. The miters were still sticky and none of the miters had cured. The shop temp was 54F/12C and epoxy doesn't like cold so I think that is why it failed. 

3rd glue up coming

Cleaned up the epoxied miters and glued them up with yellow glue this time.

clamped and cooking

This is the second time for yellow glue - the first one failed when I tried to plane the sides. Fingers crossed that it will be better with this time.

warmest spot in the shop

I ended up sticking 3 miniature frames here to keep them warm while they cooked.

5x7 frame

This will be for a holiday pic of the grandsons. That pic is 5 1/4" x 7 1/4" and I made the inside measurements 5 1/2" x 7 1/2".

back to the milk paint

Put the milk paint from the can into the blender up to the max line. I zipped it a couple of minutes and painted the frame again. The coverage is spotty and there are a few areas where the paint just ain't sticking. But it did lay down smoothly.

hmm.....

The paint dried smooth and lump free. The coat I applied appeared to have laid down and stuck. 

hmm.....

I dumped the bullet back into the can and no clumps or lumps. I'm done playing with this batch. It is going to take me a few more dance steps before I get a batch that works.

my original dovetail do dad

This is how the jig works. It sets the height of the stock for sawing. 

Cosman clone

This sets the height of the stock the same as the original jig. However, that is all this one does. The original sets the height and it also is what the tail board rests on. Looks like I wasted time and calories on this one. Maybe I should have set it to a hand plane like Cosman did.

painted

I covered the area where they will go with blue tape. I plan to use epoxy to stick them to the inside of the frame. I'll get the 2nd and final coat on after dinner.

sigh

The areas of bare wood are where the paint didn't stick. It had bubbled and flaked off on one short side when I touched it. I sanded the inside bevel with 240 grit lightly and this is what it sanded off.

rescue time

Sanded the frame with 120 grit and used a hand scraper  to remove lumps and drips. After that I slapped on a coat of shellac as a sealer coat. I'll be painting it with commercial milk paint that isn't really milk paint.

shellac pile

The biggest box I just made. The other three I made over the past 3 years and none of them had a finish on them. I am giving a cabinet I made 15 years ago to my sister Donna and I am putting all these boxes in it to get rid of them.

Getting ready for another winter storm. The prediction is 1-3" of the wonderful white crappola. I don't know when it will start nor when it will stop. Fingers crossed that I'm in a pocket that just gets a lot of wind and no snow.

accidental woodworker 

I brought all the pieces inside where it was warmer. My daughter helped with the gluing up and the finishing.

First the inner shelves and uprights were glued to each other. This was the type of clamping where if you crank down too much everything will sploosh out.

don't clamp the tar out of it

After that set all day or night we glued the sides, top, and bottom. The bottom also had pocket screws driven from underneath.

Upside down

My daughter said she didn't want to paint it, she wanted it to look like wood. I offered her the options of no finish vs putting on something almost clear that might make it easier to clean or keep things from sticking to it. She opted for that so we got ready to apply shellac. I was preparing paintbrushes when she asked why we can't just roll it. She must remember helping to paint walls.

rolling on shellac. first time.

It didn't sound like a great idea but we went ahead and rolled on Zinnser sealcoat shellac. It went on pretty thick, and some areas were foamy or had ridges. I later went back and tried to smooth some of those areas out.

we laid it on thick shellaced (or is it shellacked?)

These shelves were heavy and large. It took several days to get around taking them up one set of stairs from the basement to the first floor. Then it took another 1-2 weeks and an appliance dolly to get them from there to the second floor. Maybe I should learn a lesson from that and assemble/finish larger projects closer to their destination.

in place in use

Now it's gotten to be too cold to do much else.

where the magic happens (march through october)

Although I don’t make a lot of spoons these days, I still haunt the spoon-making discussion groups on social media, and this is one of the most common questions I hear. How can you be sure that the wood finish you’re about to use is actually food-safe?

Here are some freshly-finished utensils made from eastern red cedar. Dust from this wood is a known irritant, and the oil finish hasn’t been officially certified as food-safe! Will they poison everyone who cooks with them?!? No, they won’t.

Let’s say you’ve made a cutting board or a wooden spoon, or maybe you’ve built a baby crib, and you want to be extra-sure that the finish won’t poison somebody.

You go down to the home center and start looking at wood finishes, and only a few (mostly expensive oil-based finishes) make any claims to be safe for food contact. What about the rest of them? Can you safely finish that cutting board with Danish oil? If the baby if starts chewing on the crib rails, will a lacquer finish send her into anaphylactic shock? Why on earth don’t companies tell you if their product is or isn’t toxic when cured?

Or maybe, just maybe, we don’t get the answers we want because we’re not asking the right question.

In a classic article, finishing expert Bob Flexner points out that no government agency actually certifies any wood finish as “food-safe.” A company can call its finishing product “food-safe” at its own risk, but that claim has not been verified by anybody.

So does that mean that there’s no safe wood finish on the shelves today? That only raw, unfinished wood is truly food-safe?

Not at all. Here’s what Bob Flexner has to say:

…there is no evidence of any common wood finish being unsafe for food or mouth contact once it has fully cured, so a distinction between food-safe and non-food-safe is speculative.

You can’t be absolutely sure about the food safeness of any finish you put on wood. There could even be problems with mineral oil and walnut oil that we just don’t know of yet. There could also be problems with raw linseed oil, pure tung oil, wax, shellac and salad bowl finish, because we don’t know where these substances have been or what they might have come in contact with. None has met the regulations laid out by the FDA.

But, based on FDA regulations, the way finishes are made, the complete lack of any evidence to the contrary, and the countless other untested objects food and children come in contact with, there’s no reasonable argument for avoiding the use of any finishes.

(The whole article is worth reading in full, though it’s only available on web archive sites now.)

In other words, the question we should be asking ourselves is this: “Which wood finishes are known to be toxic when cured?”

And the answer, at least in the USA, is “none of them.”

According to Bob Flexner, there are some specialized commercial finishes in some industries that come with health hazard warnings, but they aren’t the kinds of products you can find on the shelves at your local home center.

When you think about it, we come into contact with various cured wood finishes pretty frequently–on wooden floors, wooden furniture, wooden paneling, wooden handles, you name it. Have you ever heard of anybody reacting negatively to handling finished wood? I haven’t. Our common experience indicates that, as far as anybody knows, none of the the wood finishes you can usually buy off the shelf at a home center in the USA are toxic when fully cured. (Check the label. Is there a warning that the finish contains heavy metals, like lead or mercury? No? Then you should be good to go.)

That’s not to say that applying finishes is non-toxic. Many common finishes, like lacquer, give off pretty noxious gasses as you apply them. Others, like boiled linseed oil, can cause fires if oil-soaked rags are improperly stored. So you should always take reasonable safety precautions when applying a wood finish. But once the finish has cured, the finished wood is as safe to handle as any other common object in your everyday environment.

There are even a few wood finishing products that are edible: shellac, beeswax, mineral oil, and vegetable oils (e.g. flaxseed oil, hemp oil, and walnut oil). Some purists stick to these products in older to be double-extra, super-safe. I have also known people to just use whatever vegetable oil they have available, like olive oil or sunflower oil, but that’s a mistake because those vegetable oils don’t actually dry. If it doesn’t wash right off of the utensil, it will eventually go rancid. So if you absolutely must use an edible finish, stick with an oil that dries: flaxeed/linseed, hemp, or walnut oil.

For my own wooden spoons and spatulas, however, I use a three-part blend of polyurethane, mineral spirits, and raw linseed (flaxseed) oil. The oil and polyurethane mix and dry in the wood, and the mineral spirits (added only to thin the mixture so it soaks into the wood) evaporate completely.  The finish is extremely easy to apply, and once it’s cured, it stands up to repeated washings in the kitchen. And it has never, ever poisoned anybody who used a utensil that was finished with it.

So yes, it’s fine to finish your cutting board with the boiled linseed oil from your local home center. Just let it dry completely before you start chopping fresh veggies on it. And yes, go ahead and use lacquer or polyurethane on that baby crib.

Unless it’s the mother’s first baby, and she’s a health nut.

In which case, give that crib a coat of food-grade flaxseed oil followed by several coats of shellac topped by a hand-rubbed coat of beeswax. Tell the anxious mother that while the finish won’t exactly be tasty, it is certifiably edible.

 

 

I am happy to report that my broom-maker is on the mend and just before the snow/ice storm delivered some new inventory.  I’ve got a couple events this year so he has a standing order to crank out polissoirs as his health allows.

But for now, everything is in stock.  Ironically sales for everything has plummeted, about 40% in 2025 vs. the 2024 totals.  Just as well as I am making almost zero on each 1-inch ploissoir sale.  Good thing this is just a hobby at this point.  Not complaining, who else can say they have a hobby that doesn’t cost them anything?

bare wood showing

There is a definite difference with the paint adhesion between the late and early wood rings. There are two coats on the front of the frame and it is going to need a 3rd one.

needs a second coat

The quirk on both the inside and outside had a couple of holidays. The flat areas of the frame didn't need a second coat. I applied a 2nd coat to whole front anyway.

sigh

Way too much quark in this batch of milk paint. It is way too thick and it has a ton of clumps in it. They were easily flattened and didn't seem to be a hiccup sticking to the wood. I added water to it to thin it but it didn't really work 100%.  

On the back of the frame I painted it two more times. The coverage there was spotty and it wasn't covering entirely. This batch was borderline acceptable. I'll be making a 3rd batch of milk paint but will it be the charm? 

hmm......

In spite of the hiccups with this batch I do like this color. It isn't flat and it isn't shiny but somewhere in between the two. It was hanging out here drying after the third coat. On a positive note the paint, although it is iffy, still seems to be viable.

changed

The pendulum bob (outside the case) is too small for the viewing window. The replacement one is a bigger, shiny brass one which I like a lot. The movement I put in the clock last week is dead with my cell phone time. Now I just have to remember what did I do with the back panel?

hmm.....

Instead of the brass pendulum rod I covered it with a wooden insert. I can't remember where I bought these and a did a fruitless search for them last night. I only have one more left. I waxed it with dark Briwax to match the walnut case.

my version

Rob Cosman recently posted a vid about making a jig for setting stock square in the vise for dovetailing. He made his to match a 5 1/2 hand plane whereas mine will match a dovetail jig I already have and use.

almost done

I used 6mm plywood and a scrap of Philippine mahogany for my version. I rounded over the top on all four sides. 

done

This matches the height of the squaring jig I made a few years back. The new one should be easier to use than the left one.

no more twist

The two mini frames I glued up last week are both twist free now. The smaller one is too small for the photo I wanted to frame in it. The larger one is big enough for a 5x7.

3 days late

Stickers finally came in. They look better up close and personal than on the ETSY website. Still wish I could have found specific Stanley numbered sticker though.

dresses it up a wee bit

Sticker at least identifies the box as holding a Stanley tool.

Yikes

This is the big frame and it fell apart when I tried to plane the first side. Reassembled the frame with epoxy this time.

too small

I like these magnetic stickers. The June Cleaver moms are such a shocking difference from the sayings. I had one more of them but I couldn't find it. I'll have to make another frame because this one is a 1/4" too small.

new frame

Whacked out a new miniature frame. I will glue this one with yellow glue. After it has cooked I will glue a 1/8" plywood back to it. That should hold the miters together and keep them from separating.

grandsons Stanley #2

I rehabbed a bazillion hand planes and this was the only #2 I ever saw offered up for sale. I never saw a another manufacturer's #2 offered neither.  Right out of their toolbox it spit RML shavings.

hmm......

Two sets of RML and two sets of full width and length face shavings. I don't see the big deal with this plane. I think using a blockplane is a better choice. I got this one for the grandkids because of its size. It is a perfect fit for young hands.

it is too small

This plane feels awkward in my hands. It almost disappears when gripping the tote with one hand and the knob with the other.  

the grandson's main tool chest

I put a sticker on the box - it has a Stanley depth stop for auger bits, a counter sink, and a 1/4" driver. There is also a complete set of Stanley planes for them - #2, #3, #4, #5 1/4, #5 1/2, #6, #7, and a #8. Missing is a 4 1/2, 10 1/2, and #1 (which will never happen). Not sure if I'll add two of the missing 3.

accidental woodworker

 

last night

Made another batch of quark. I don't seem to have any hiccups with this part of making milk paint. It is neat to watch how quickly it curdles when the vinegar is added to the milk.

came last night

I have always been fascinated with Mr Wright and his designs. Falling Water is my favorite and his prairie school homes I like more than his earlier ones. But above all I love the stain glass designs that were so prevalent in his designs. I read the whole book in one sitting. 

not in the book

I rinsed the quark and placed in it some cheese cloth and a double mesh strainer to drain any water left in the quark (overnight).

hmm......

I little less than half a cup left in the pan. Water seems to be the enemy in making milk paint from my reading of the book. Seemed like a prudent step IMO.

this sucks

The book says a minimum of 250 grams of quark to make a batch. I'm about 50 grams shy. The quark is hard, much harder than my first batch. I'll had to make another batch of quark.

3rd batch

I used this milk to make the 2nd batch. I used a supermarket generic milk to make the first batch which yielded more than 250 grams. The author wrote that different milk brands yield different results with the quark.

On the 2nd batch I had added a cup and half more than one quart. I thought that would give a wee bit more than the required 250 grams. It didn't and I only got 208 grams.

2nd batch

Rinsed and draining while I went to the VA. I have an appointment at the West Roxbury VA for a PET scan at 0800 on Feb 6th. I checked with transportation and the shuttle from Providence to Roxbury leaves at 0530. After I confirmed that I went to express care for a rash on my left shin. 

I have dry skin and it is a common headache in the winter. Especially so when the weather gets cold like it has been the past week or so. Just another joy to endure in my golden years.

have enough now

Decided to make a big batch. I added 42 grams to the 2nd one to bring it up to 250. I then added another 125 grams to raise the total to 375. 

oops

I didn't notice the max line when I loaded this. The blender was straining to mix it up. I finally got it done but it was slow going. Mixing (even this big batch) was so much better over hand mixing. No lumps or clumps of quark. It was a homogeneous mix that I forgot to add the black pigment to. I had to mix that in by hand. 

kind of black

The black pigment has mica in it which makes it shiny. I think I made a me-steak getting these pigments. I'm going to search for earth pigments next. This paint batch is thick. Thicker than commercial paint not sure how will that effect the coverage? 

the small picture frame

I sanded this with 240 grit before I painted it black. This will house pics of the grandsons.

hmm.....

Two coats on the back. The coverage isn't that bad. There is no washed out look like the miniature chest. The author wrote that milk paint doesn't have a long shelf life. Thankfully this paint did dry quickly - about an hour after the first coat, I was putting on the 2nd one.

After dinner I will get 2 coats on the front of the frame. The paint had thickened between the first and second coats. I had thinned the paint before applying the first coat with 2 tablespoons of water and 5 tablespoons on the second one.

big frame

I'm pretty impressed with the coverage of the first coat on the front of the big frame. I will eyeball it in the AM before I decide whether or not to do a 2nd coat.

thicker

Don't understand why this paint is getting thicker with each use. So far thinning it with water seems to be working. Fingers crossed that I can get two coats on the front before it heads south on me.

accidental woodworker 

January has been a busy month for me. Last weekend, I went to Colonial Williamsburg to give a talk on the Samuel Wing chair.  At the end of two 90-minute sessions my friend Jerome Bias (who was also presenting at the conference) came up on stage to help me assemble the back.  It was an especially recalcitrant back, so my wife Morgan also came up to help:

Both presentations were fun, and I was quite happy (thanks to planemaker Steve Slocum for both photos):

Earlier in January, I drove to northern VA to buy an automatic knife grinder for grinding our travisher and reamer blades.  I’ve been having local grinding shops do this grinding, but it seems time to move it to my shop.  This grinder is as big as a lathe, so we need a spot to put it.  Hence, some machines for sale.  The best is first – my very first lathe, now owned by Seth Elliott who makes the travishers and tenon cutters that I sell.  Here’s what he has to say about it:

For Sale: A Powermatic 90—Elia’s First Lathe

The tool-making section of Hand Tool Woodworking, where I spend my time, is an enclosed shed with big sliding doors off the back of Elia’s main shop. It’s got a little Jotul wood stove and a great view of the woods. Ironically, we use several power tools to make our hand tools and have intentionally housed most of them in this back shop area to keep the noise and dust somewhat isolated. With a 24″ planer, 14″ band saw, table saw, steam box, spindle sander, belt/disc sander, router, grinder, lathe, and drill press, space is at a premium.

Still, for the past couple years Elia has graciously allowed me to store his old pea-green Powermatic 90 lathe against one wall. He originally purchased this lathe in 2004, did put a single-phase motor in it, and turned on it for fifteen years until selling it to me after scoring his massive Wadkin pattermaker’s lathe. I used it for a few years in my own shop that I had set up in an elderly neighbor’s outbuilding down the street from me. After she passed, and I had to break-down that shop, we moved it back to Elia’s shop with the intention of replacing the small Delta lathe I had been using there. My lathe use for the toolmaking is limited, however, and it makes sense for Elia to keep the Delta—a somewhat-mobile lathe—for the occasional demo. So, I’ve decided to stop letting the Powermatic collect dust and instead get it into the hands of someone who will use it.

I had plans to save it for another permutation of my own shop on my own property, but that project will not be happening any time soon and Elia has just bought a metal grinder that needs that wall space in the tool-making shop. Sorry as I am to see it go, it makes the most sense at this time.

It’s an excellent lathe. The Powermatic Company in Tennessee made the PM90 from 1955 to1998. There’s a great thread on its history on the OWWM.org website. Its owner’s manual and parts list can be found on the same site. From that, it looks like this one is from 1961. These lathes became popular for use in high-school shop classes and gained a reputation for standing up to less-than-careful use. It weighs in at 600 pounds and is therefore quite stable. It has a variable speed lever that shifts easily from1000 to 4000 rpm. This one is currently set up with a 1 hp motor and a single-phase, 220v connection. Also included, in addition to original metal tool rest stand (minus the tool-rest itself), is a longer wooden one that Elia built for turning chair parts and also a sturdy tool stand/rest for outboard turning.

Asking price is $1500. The buyer will need a way to load the lathe as we have no lift.

Contact Seth for more info.

I (Elia) am also selling a couple machines. The first is a drill press. It was Peter Ross’s first drill press that he bought in the 80’s. I bought it from him when I moved into my current shop, and it became my first drill press. The motor promptly burned out, so I put a nice 3/4hp, 110v Dayton motor on it and we’ve made thousands of tools on it since. It runs great and has a couple nice features: a very nice quick-set depth stop and a table crank. But it’s a little small for our work and the quill has some run-out, which can cause vibration when drilling metal and reaming large holes (read tenon-cutters). So I recently bought a bigger Powermatic drill press (also from Peter) and this one’s got to go.

$150

When I bought my automatic knife grinder, the owner had five pedestal grinders he was also selling. On impulse, I bought the best one, and immediately regretted it. Not that it’s not a nice grinder – it’s much quieter and better-built than mine. But do I really want to spend time tearing my grinding setup apart and putting it back together again? No! So I’m selling this grinder for what I’ve got in it.

$250

The post For Sale: My First Lathe, My First Drill Press, and a Grinder first appeared on Elia Bizzarri - Hand Tool Woodworking.

When I built the greenhouse last year I was determined to overbuild it.  As the evidence indicates, I was wrong in my assumptions and execution of what I thought overbuilding was,  The center laminated arch just snapped this week under the weight of the snow, sleet and frozen rain.  A pretty substantial rebuild must occur before next winter, building bigger (and more) laminated arches.  In addition to replacing the destroyed center arch I will build two more inside the greenhouse and one in the outer workspace on the far end of the structure. I’ll make them each 1-1/2″ x 3″ rather than 1-1/4″ x 2″.  That calculates to a four-fold increased strength. I don’t know yet whether the plastic skin can be salvaged.  Part of me was pleased to see the laminations remained intact, just the weight and the wind literally snapped the center arch.

Also, if I was so inclined and equipped, I could absolutely ice skate down the driveway.  (I left my ice hockey days behind me many, many decades ago)

One thing I was very pleased about was the performance of my spiked-sole lumberjack boots.  They made traipsing around the icy landscape a breeze.  I was absolutely right to buy these a couple years ago.  I was only expecting to use them when harvesting firewood on sloped ground, but they sure did the trick here.

UPDATE

The plowing crew finally came at 10.15 last night to dig us out.  They brought three big machines.  The first was a V-wedge icebreaker to bust everything up, the second was an 8-foot plow blade, the third was a 6-foot blade to make everything purdy.  Was great to look out this morning and actually see the driveway, we can now get out after four days of being icebound.  Free at last, free at last!

Right around zero at dawn this morning.

 The chest is done and my wife liked it. I am thinking that aliens have cloned her because she rarely likes things I make. She especially liked the color and asked me if I had done it on purpose. I explained that it was the result of my first failed milk paint. In spite of that, I kind of liked the color myself too.

new toys

Surprise. The bullet blender I ordered arrived a little before 2000 yesterday. Got some  spatulas to clean out mixing jars. Went searching for small canning jars and nada. I went to a bazillion stores and I found quart sizes but I wanted the smaller one. I'll be mixing a new batch of milk paint (black) tomorrow.

sweet

This came with 3 different size mixing jars, this is the largest one. The blender only has one speed but I don't see any need for pulse blending.

nope

The white spots are wood putty and the milk paint didn't cover it. Not sure if that was because of the crappy first batch I made or whether a good batch would have covered it.

happy face on

I didn't get any paint bleed through on the tape. All the edges are clean and sharp. The underside of the lid was the same.

last coat

Ended up slapping 5 coats of shellac over the milk paint. The shellac didn't change the paint color in the least. I used a blonde shellac that wasn't 100% clear, so I wasn't sure if it would add a tint of shellac color to the milk paint.

wood poster frame

I picked brown and I like the color. The border on the poster is black and my original color for the frame was black. There wouldn't have been a line in the sand between it and the poster border. Now with the frame being brown and the poster border black, I can pick a matting color that will blend the three together.

4th finger got cropped

I could have stopped here with four but I was in the shop and couldn't do anything else. So I applied a 5th and final coat to kill some time.

from china

14oz canning jars from the Dollar Store that the clerk warned me shouldn't be used for canning due to lead in the glass. I used it to mix 1oz of black pigment. I'll use it to make the milk paint for a picture frame.

glamour pic #1

It isn't so much the color I like, but the washed out look of it is what appeals the most to me.

pic #2

Seeing this pic now I'm thinking that maybe I should have have knocked the height of it down a few inches.

3rd glamour shot

I like the contrast between the bare wood of the lid and inside compared to the milk paint.

final glamour pic

Back looks funny to my eye. It doesn't quite match the washed out look of the sides and front. So in that respect it is good that it is the back.

hmm......

The Union #3 continues to perform well. This is a scrap of wood that I used to close the lid on the shellac can. It had dings and divots in it on both faces that the Union smoothed out lickety split. However, my OCD is in overdrive because the lever adjust is over the right.

ten minute project before the bell

This is a riser for my computer keyboard. The feet on it don't tilt it up high enough for me.

just right

I eyeballed the height and I nailed it dead on. It is 3/8" higher then the feet and it lies in the plane from where my elbows rest on the edge of the desk to my hands on the keyboard. Glad I didn't have to play with it to get the height of the riser correct.

accidental woodworker

Dowel joinery. It takes little equipment. Even beginners can do it with care. Yet among many woodworkers, it just does not get the states it deserves. Let’s consider. I learned the principle and technique mainly from pages 130 – 140 of The Fine Art of Cabinet Making, by James Krenov, published in 1977 and read […]

Let me establish from the start that many, many methods of sharpening can work. And while I may be courting controversy in my approach, I really am interested in this blog post in discussing how I sharpen, not offering a comprehensive review of all plausible methods. I will also say from the get-go that there is also a big difference between regrinding a tool to a new geometry to repair damage and routine maintenance because of use.

Here is how I am keeping my tools sharp.

Except for one 3/8" spindle gouge ,all my turning tools are made of high-speed steel (HSS). There are gradations of quality of HSS, but in general HSS tools stay sharper longer than traditional carbon steel tools. On the other hand, carbon steel is easier to sharpen. Pole turners have a tendency to want to use carbon steel tools, because such tools are easily sharpened with a stone in the field. Other that that, HSS tools have replaced carbon steel in the marketplace.

One complaint people have with sharpening high-speed steel is that HSS doesn't get as sharp an edge as carbon steel. I would suggest that with modern sharpening equipment such as diamond stones, CBN wheels, and quality waterstones, HSS can get pretty darn sharp. It not so much the steel, which is kind of gummy, but diamond and CBN cleanly cut through the carbide inclusions that are found in HSS.

For the one or two times I've wanted to really change the geometry of a tool, I've used a grinder with a CBN wheel. The CBN wheel isn't essential, but it does mean my chances of burning the tool are nearly non-existent. Many people finish up on a grinder and call it a day, although they are usually finishing up on a much finer wheel (220 and up) than I have (80).

Since I don't have a super fine grinding wheel, in all cases no matter how I get to the ground edge I'm following up the fine and extra fine diamond stone. And then I'm doing one of three things. Leaving the tool as is and getting back to work. Stropping with strop treated with micro fine green honing compound, or polishing on an 8,000 grit water stone. I'm going back and forth between the strop and the 8000 grit waterstone trying to figure out which is better. I don't have an answer yet. I do think however if you have a sharp tool to begin with. a polished edge will cut better and longer.

Since I free-hand sharp everything anyway, I free-hand sharpen my turning tools. Learning to sharpen the handle heavy turning tools took some adapting, but it's the same skill. One of the reasons I'm a big fan of free-hand sharpening regular chisels is once you can free-hand sharpen chisels and plane blades, you can also free-hand sharpen pretty much everything else as well.

When my turning for the day is done, I feel the tool for sharpness. If I'm unsure if it's sharp, it's probably not. I then touch it up on the fine and extra fine diamond stone. And then follow whatever polishing medium is handy.

In the photo above, we have a 1" skew chisel and a 1" continental gouge. You can see the hollow from the grinding. I have a 6" grinder. Most turners prefer a lesser hollow and use 8" grinders. But unfortunately I can't justify a new grinder. The polish marks on the heel and toe of the bevel are the result of hand honing.

I can't emphasize enough how much of a pleasure and a rush it is when I take a tool that was cutting weirdly, sharpen it, put it back on the lathe, treadle away, and get curly shavings.

 It snowed overnight and I woke up to about an inch plus on the ground. Unbelievable after the ton of crap that fell the day before. At least it is was light and fluffy. There is the possibility that a repeat of the past sunday will happen on this coming sunday. After the last 5-6 years of minimal snow fall I can't really complain. 

not bad but also not welcomed

I was not a happy camper this AM. My arms and shoulders didn't hurt anymore but my back was frantically shaking hands with me. Spent a lot of time today molding my butt cheeks to my desk chair. But that happened after I shoveled the driveway. 

nutso results

About 15 years ago when I decided to go the rabbit hole of hand tool woodworking one of the things I went nutso on was getting replacement irons and chipbreakers. I have at least two sets of iron/chipbreakers for all of my planes except for my #8. I have an extra iron but no chipbreaker. I took out two sets for a #3.

much better

I got a Stanley iron in the Union #3. Cutting smoother and easier than the Union iron. I had a similar problem like this with a Miller Falls iron. Sharpened and honed and nada. It would not make a shaving. I ground the bevel back on my bench grinder and again nada. I couldn't get it to make a shavings. The Union iron cuts good on the right side of the iron and garbage on the left. Couldn't improve it by sharpening it again concentrating on the left side.

what a difference

The shaving from the Union iron was jagged and It wasn't continuous from end to end. And it tore out like crazy around the screw holes. The Stanley shaving was continuous, full width, full length, and the screw holes were intact.. Thinking of offering this up for sale again.

One thing I've found over the years was swapping out sets doesn't always work. What works is swapping just the iron and keeping the original chipbreaker. I don't know why but it was a hard learned lesson.

prepping the chest

I don't want any paint on the underside of the lid or the inside of the chest. If I get any bleed through the tape, I'll paint the underside and the top edge of the box.

hmm......

I lost 12 grams of quark over the past 3 days. I am still going to make my first batch of milk paint regardless. It is all part of the learning curve.

done

I think I made way too much dye for the paint. The author says 1ounce/30 grams and I stopped at 20 grams/1/2 ounce. The paint mixed easy but not completely. There are lumps of quark that no matter how much I stirred,  wouldn't go away.  The color isn't as blue as I would have liked. I really wanted something more like a cobalt blue.

One thing that surprised me was how liquid the paint became. The lime got 4 tablespoons of water and I drained the water that was in the quark container. I couldn't see how mixing the lime quark would become a liquid or even a loose, watery paint. 

It became liquid almost immediately. A bit on the watery side but a paint quality liquid. The author recommends a blender and I now agree with him. I bought a small juicing blender from Amazon. I'm supposed to have it today but I find that doubtful but I'll keep my fingers crossed. If I get it I'll make another batch in the AM.

left over

There is more then enough to color a 2nd batch of milk paint. I would have mixed a 30 gram/1 ounce sample but this jar wasn't big enough.

yikes

I wasn't paying attention when I grabbed the paint can and I tipped it over. Sigh. I am not impressed with the color on the wood. It isn't blue but it looks greenish. I wanted this to be a pale wash that showed the grain but not green and that is working. 

ugly color IMO

Besides the color being off, the coverage wasn't what I expected. I think part of the problem with that is I didn't sand before painting. This paint was applied to a surface that was hand planed. Too smooth and no tooth for the paint to grab.

hmm......

There are bumps and clumps of (quark?) on all the surface. They look like crap. The dark specs.

an hour later

The greenish tint has toned down some and it looks like a pale blue/green color now. It is dry to the touch and I'll be putting on at least one more coat.

clumps

The little dark spots are clumps of quark? They are hard and I couldn't remove them scraping with a finger nail.

worse spot

The coverage here sucks pond scum. 

240 grit

The sandpaper cut and smoothed all the clumps. It also left behind a lot of dust. I'll try to get a 2nd coat on after dinner, hopefully. If not then in the AM. I will also be applying 3-4 coats of shellac.

accidental woodworker

Although I have been spending any shop time over the past few months cleaning, tidying, and reorganizing the barn, I had long ago penciled-in this week as Firewood Week 2026/7.  We are deep into Winter 2025/6 with an extended forecast of unseasonably cold weather, with overnight lows for the next fortnight running at or below zero.  That was motivation to get a good jump on next winter and beyond (we’re fine for this winter).

My target was the cluster of windfall trees (mostly maple and birch IIRC) that came down in a storm some time ago, up the hill behind the cabin.  The main trunks on these are all 18-24″, a few a bit more.  The beauty of such a trove is that it is already down but standing above the ground, making it easy to get to while seasoning “on the hoof.”  I’ll have to clear a couple of scrub saplings to get my 4WD S10 up there but if the ground is clear it will be a piece o’ cake.

Then came the disheartening forecast last week for a Storm of the Century!!! with somewhere between 12 and 24 inches of snow.  Such an event would disrupt my firewood harvesting and processing plans.  Not an existential problem, but I did have my mind set on it.  Then came the Snowpocaplyse.  Big whup.  Not even enough to get out the snowblower.

The forecast is still for very cold (for us) weather so I’ll see if I can work in well-below-zero wind chills.  My old Minnesota home town has wind chills of minus-60 so this isn’t all that bad in the cosmic scheme of things.

Stay tuned.

UPDATE

The monster snowfall never materialized, but the gradual deposits from the storm front wound up to be about three inches of snow, followed by three inches of sleet, all encased in a saturating half inch of freezing rain.  Even my 13hp snowblower choked on that combo.  We spent yesterday hacking out two of the vehicles and will spend today and tomorrow working on our long driveway.  It’s like clearing demolition rubble as I first have to break everything up then shovel it out of the way.

wow

Sunday it started snowing and it came down in small flurries. Those flurries laid down to about 9 inches. Drifts were 2-3 feet high. Snapped this pic from my back door to where I park the truck. It took me 2 hours to clear this area which is a 1/3 of the total needing shoveling. 

Shoveling this white @)%&^&@)%@_) crap wore me out. There was no where to put the snow. I had to walk from the right side to dump the snow on the left . I am fxxked if we get another snow dump like this before this blanket melts.

3 hours to clear

Can't throw more than a few shovel fulls by the bushes. I had to make my own mountain range on the right. I can usually shovel the driveway and the front walk in a couple of hours (3-4 inches). That didn't happen today boys and girls. I got lucky that a neighbor a few doors down came with a snow blower and cleared the end of driveway and the road. That would have taken me more than an hour to shovel.

late in the PM

I found these 4 poor man miter jigs when I cleaned the boneyard. They don't last long - the kerf gets worn and too wide. It doesn't matter because I don't use the miters off the jig. I always clean and smooth the miters with a hand plane on a shooting jig.

clean up

Not necessary but I wanted to put the Union through its paces. Performed adequately but not in the top 3 of my #3 planes. The iron is freshly sharpened/honed but it felt dull. It was dragging a bit rather than sailing over the wood. 

hmm........

I don't do good sawing the 45 slots. The left one I don't have problems with. I usually nail it dead on 45. The right one giggles at me every single time. I don't have any headaches with the top horizontal saw cut. It is the vertical down cut. No matter how much I try it comes out tapered, on the line at the top going out to right at the bottom. A nice tapered, slanted saw cut,

nope

I thought I could saw from the opposite side but it didn't work. It came out better but the taper was still there. Smaller and still not square up/down.

3rd try

A little help with a square was just that, a little help. Still had a tapered vertical kerf. A minor hiccup but I would still like to get dead nuts 45's off this jig.

left one

No light and it is tight and seamless in the square.  This is the first time I remember achieving this. Left or right I always seem to be a wee bit off 45.

pretty good for off the saw

The right miter is wonky. It looked good in the square but there something about it I didn't like.

the problem

The left miter heel is tapered. (the left was sawn on the right miter slot). The other miter is square and parallel. The miter won't close up and form a 90 with the pieces plumb. 

nope again

2nd attempt and the miter heel is tapered. The other miter is square and parallel. The miter won't close up and form a 90 square up/down. 

the best one

I tried correcting this cut because I could see it going OTL (out to lunch). I had also penciled a square line on the backside of the front cut. All of them were better then the front but still tapered.

I wanted to play more with this but my shoulders and left arm were singing arias to me. I'll come back to this in the AM if they are feeling better.

accidental woodworker

During the holiday break, we took a trip north way up to the Eureka, California area.  There are a lot of redwoods up that way, primarily in Humboldt Redwoods State Park and Redwoods National Park.  But because of all the redwoods, you can guess what the main industry was in that area back in the latter half of the 19th century and the first half of the 20th - logging.

One of the remaining mills is Blue Ox Millworks.  I had originally become aware of it via YouTube.  The owner, Eric Hollenbeck, has done several videos about some of the tools he's collected over the years, about the local architecture (some for which his shop has done a lot of architectural millwork) and about his experiences in Viet Nam (some pretty intense stories).

A sign outside gives some history of the building

Eric and/or his wife will give tours of the works on request (you should call or e-mail ahead).  Unfortunately, on the day we visited Eric couldn't give us a tour, but we could take a self-guided tour.  Immediately inside you get a view of several Barnes foot-powered machines: lathes, table saw, scroll saws.

A poster advertising Barnes' machines

A few of the treadle scroll saws

A little further along was a serious machine that would cut a tenon on a stick of wood.  Eric's got a video of this machine in action.  It's a serious machine!

The H. B. Smith Tenoner

Some info on the tenoner

There were other rooms where a lot of work gets done, and I couldn't help but get some pictures of old planes.  This was a big wall full of old wooden and metal planes.  I don't think they use these regularly - they're more of a collection of what used to be used 100+ years ago.

The wall of planes.  Unfortunately I was not allowed to fondle them.

A sweet old plough (with no iron)

Now check out this item.  They had a GIANT lathe that could do the turnings for columns or tall posts that hold up porches and the like.  This lathe could turn wood up to 18 feet long!  The piece on the lathe in the picture is about 10 feet.  Yowzah!

The lathe is against the windowed wall

The city of Eureka and surrounding small towns have many old Victorian houses.  Most of those houses have porches or balconies with railings held up by dozens of identical turned balusters.  Blue Ox has done a lot of work when these houses need repair.  But they also do work for buildings all over the country.

Finally, in addition to the millwork, Blue Ox is also a "Historic Village", showing off several other trades of old.  Two such trades were housed in the main building.  There was the Print Shop and the Fiber Arts areas with lots of old equipment.

A case with letters to be loaded into a printing press

Old cabinet with hundreds, if not thousands of print letters

Old sewing machines in the fiber arts area

Looms for making fabric

There is also an old sawmill building, but a storm (don't recall when) picked up the roof and slammed it back down, so it was out of commission when we were there.  I hope they get a chance to fix it up, but that'll be a large undertaking.

I was really stoked to meet Eric, but a little disappointed I couldn't chat with him more.  He was very gracious and I'm so glad to have gone there.  If you ever get a chance, by all means seek out Blue Ox Millworks.

Probably like many of you, as I watch the paroxysm of manufactured “rage” throughout urban America I am almost continually running an OODA Loop especially when I leave Shangri-la and go out into the larger world.  (OODA is the military acronym for Observe, Orient, Decide, and Act, a decision-making model for use in uncertain situations.)  In the environment that is the USA 2026, OODA is in my mental background like a virus scan.  Since many/most/all(?) of the “spontaneous” riots are conducted by trained out-of-state professionals provided by entities like Crowds on Demand, Inc. (a real LA-based rent-a-mob temp agency!), the need for OODA is an imperative.  I for one am curious about the money trail for the rent-a-mobs.

But ruminations on OODA are just the gateway for this post.  Almost all of us of a certain age have had our awareness formed, at least in part, by two classic dystopian novels we read in high school — 1984 (1949, George Orwell) and Brave New World (1932, Aldous Huxley).  However, my favorite novel of this (or any other) genre and roughly contemporary to them, and one that I am unreservedly recommending to you, is the far less known 1945 C.S. Lewis That Hideous Strength.  When reading THS I find many of the parallels to 2026 to be inescapable.  It is almost a fictional recitation of the seduction Hannah Arendt described as “the banality of evil” but set in the campus and village of a small British university.  It brings to mind the old quip, “The smaller the boat the meaner the rats.”

The understanding from this trilogy of dystopian fiction is IMHO foundational to being a modern grown-up.  Not the full foundation, but still foundational.  Read or reread them for a refresher course in the human condition and of the evil that men can do.  And if you are unfamiliar with That Hideous Strength, pick it up and be edified.  Every time I reread it I find myself saying, “Holy cow, that’s just like now!”  Yes, it is a semi-fantasy, but the parallels are too powerful to ignore.  It is not a fast read, not because it is turgid or difficult, but because you might just find yourself pausing by necessity to consider the implications of the tale for our modern, debauched world.

For extra credit when exploring the dysfunctional human condition take a stroll through The Minor Prophets of The Old Testament, Hosea through Malachi.  Since the books do indeed chronicle accurately the nature of the human condition, like me you are likely to pause and reflect that the truths therein are as current as tomorrow’s headlines.