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 Don't have anything in the pipeline, not even a thought. My truck is going in the shop for repairs on monday and tuesday so I'll be without a vehicle. The plan as of this typing is that I'll be motoring up to Highlands Hardwoods in New Hampshire on wednesday or thursday. That is weather dependent too. I am going to make the grandsons their desks one at a time. Hesitant to buy enough cherry for two but on the other hand it will mean another round trip up north. Decisions, decisions.

done

Six coats of shellac before the shine was acceptable to me.

hmm......

Rethinking the bookshelves I just made for the grandsons.  I have enough cherry here to make two bookshelves. The pine might be too much of a contrast against a cherry top. Looking ahead two smaller cherry bookshelves would melt into the cherry desks. I can plane the cherry to thickness with the lunchbox planer on monday. 

hmm......

Found out today the bookcase ain't going to North Carolina this sunday. My wife is only taking this wall cabinet with her. I noticed that one of the shelf pins wasn't seating in the notch. I widened all the notches in both of the shelve boards just in case - expansion/contraction is different in North Carolina.

huge difference

This bottom slat is the one I wanted to add a veneer shim to. No need because it swelled almost shut with the glue.

Didn't get much shop time today. Spent a good portion of it running errands and helping my wife with dead people stuff. Just as well as I didn't have anything to make wood dust with.

accidental woodworker

At the end of January, I went to the PAST tool collectors show in Fremont, CA.  Usually I don't come home with anything, but this time I did grab a few things.  I'll show them below, but first let me show this router plane display that one of the guys brought!

A collection of mostly craftsman-made router planes

None of these planes was made by Stanley or Preston or Millers Falls, or any other maker that we typically think of when we think of router planes.  These were mostly user-made tools and they were pretty dang cool.  The longest one was 14" long.

On the same table was also a display of an unusual Disston saw - a #196 "docking" saw.

Disston #196 Docking Saw

There's nothing about it on the Disstonian Institute site, but some other search results indicated it was used for heavy construction, like timber framing or railroad work.  It has crosscut teeth and a heavily breasted tooth line.  Someone at the tool show suggested the name came from its use on the docks, perhaps crosscutting dock boards to length.  The metal handle was interesting - possibly due to its getting rough use.

Anyway, moving on to what I picked up ...

A couple years ago I bought two larger auger bits - 1 1/8" and 1 1/4".  I found a 1 1/2" bit at the show and grabbed it for $10.  It's a Snell's-Jennings bit, no idea when it was made, but it was in near perfect condition.  It was already sharp - both spurs and both cutting lips.  And when I got home and made a test hole I was very impressed at how clean the entry rim was.  This was a great find because I have had some trouble using expansive bits for larger holes.

A beautiful, clean 1 1/2" hole

SNELL'S JENNINGS' 6

That's a really clean hole!

I'm a sucker for incannel gouges.  One of the sellers had a table where everything was $8.  There was a box filled with chisels of all types and I grabbed four - two small incannel gouges (that will add nicely to the larger ones I've got), a bent gouge, and a 1" bevel edge chisel.

The lineup

The two incannel gouges were from Spear & Jackson and New Haven Edge Tool Co.  I just need to clean and sharpen them and I think they'll be a great addition to my shop.

SPEAR & JACKSON SHEFFIELD

The S&J was about 9/16" wide

S&J curvature approx 9/16" radius

NEW HAVEN EDGE TOOL CO.

About 7/16" wide

Curvature of 9/32" radius

The bent gouge is from Ulmia.  It's 13 mm wide with an approximate 1/4" radius curvature.  I don't do much carving, but this one will be a nice addition to the carving set.

ULMIA

It's about 1/2" wide

This shows the amount of bend

Finally, there was this 1" socket chisel.  I don't need another 1" chisel, but this one is a T. H. Witherby.  If their chisels are as good as I've heard their drawknives are, this will be a real winner!  It's got a little pitting on the flat side, but I think I'll be able to get that out.  I found a good article about Witherby by Brian Welch here.

T. H. WITHERBY WARRANTED

You can see the pitting here

Not sure why, but I do prefer socket chisels

That's it.  Some nice additions to the shop.  Now I have a little work to do to get them up to working condition.

 

These holdfasts have served me well of the last 32 years, I used them a lot when I re-sawed guitar sets by hand with a rip saw, they have never failed me. I do own a pair of Gramercy Tools holdfasts, I use them to clamp down a miter box I use for cutting kerfing strips of guitars, but I reach for and use those old holdfasts on a regular basis.

“Your book is next.” These welcome words greeted me a few days ago as I opened my email. Megan Fitzpatrick is my editor, Lost Art Press is my publisher, and my book may see the light of day sometime soon. Sure, there’s still lots of editing and formatting for Megan to do, but it’s begun in earnest now.

One of my favorite new techniques that I learned during the book-writing process was boiled joints. I’ve written about them before, but here’s a clip from my talk at the Working Wood in the 18th Century conference at Colonial Williamsburg a few weeks ago, showing how they’re done:

Video

I just this week learned how to edit videos. This is my first, and I’m rather surprised at how simple and fun the process is. Maybe more will come.

The post A Favorite New Technique first appeared on Elia Bizzarri - Hand Tool Woodworking.

 The day started with me finding it had snowed again overnight. Because of that the driver for the shuttle to West Roxbury was late and we didn't get on the road north until after 0600. In spite of that and the crazy Boston traffic, I was only late for my appointment by 4 minutes.

PET scans are easy but they take time. First I had the zoomies IV'ed into me and that took 46 minutes. Then I got to ride the big donut scan for 16 minutes. They stuck something under my legs and had to keep my arms out stretched straight back. That hurt and I had an incredible urge to cough that I had trouble suppressing, but I did because I didn't want to repeat the donut ride.

My shoulders were aching and my hip was humming arias. The nurse had to help sit up and get off the bed. Other than these minor annoyances the PET went flawlessly. Hopefully I won't have to go back to the W Roxbury VA for another PET scan.

I got back home at 1440 and got the garbage ready for pick up in the AM. After that I headed to the shop because I had 20 minutes before the quitting bell ringing at 1500.

from leave book, take a book at the VA

I had read a couple of articles on this lady code breaker. Since I didn't get picked up to return to the Providence VA until 1250, I started reading it. I got through 80 pages before pickup and I brought it home. Biographical novels are my favorite books to read. I'll be finished with it before the weekend ends.

why not?

The idea at this time was to steel wool the two bookshelves and apply shellac after dinner. 

hmm.......

I got 4 coats on the bottom and the ends. All that is left to do is the interior. I applied another coat on the bottom and ends again. I did that because the bottom didn't look shiny enough to my eye.

quit at 1538

I kept on going boys and girls. I applied the first coat of shellac on the interior. And I will return after dinner and slap another one.

accidental woodworker 

Even on a treadle lathe, the roughing gouge throws off tons of thick shavings

Roughing out is the first thing you do on a lathe project, when you take a square piece of wood and turn it round. You want to do this fast. Surface finish is not that important, although you don't want a disaster. Since the wood is square, you are at least starting with interrupted cuts.


l-r: 1" Continental Gouge, 3/4" Roughing Gouge, 1/2" carbide insert tooling

I have three tools that I can use for roughing out (above).

A continental gouge. If you look at early catalogs, you'll see that essentially they offered two kinds of tools: what we now call the continental gouge, and a typical spindle gouge. Mine is a 1" continental gouge.

A roughing gouge. This is the standard tool people use for roughing nowadays. I have a forged 3/4-in roughing gouge. I also have a much larger one that is really overkill and too big for a machine of this power. This tool is forged because of its size. Ashley Iles and other companies also make machined roughing gouges in smaller sizes.

Insert tooling carbide square edge scraper tools that can be used for roughing as well. Many people prefer the insert tooling carbide scrapers because the learning curve is easier. I bought this tool and a few other carbide insert tools because I've gotten a lot of questions about whether they could be used on a treadle lathe.

In truth, I have a fourth tool that can be used. If I wanted to, I could use a regular spindle gouge and it would work fine - though slower. I left the spindle gouge out of the demo because I would use it only if it were my only option.

A roughing gouge is the most popular tool for this purpose but the question is: for a treadle lathe for which makes the most sense.

l-r: scraper, continental gouge, roughing gouge
In the picture above, you can see the results of all three tools with the tool used underneath it. All this work was done with each tool in under a minute - maybe even under 30 seconds. I developed a sense of how fast they cut - and we can see the quality of surface they leave behind. I used all tools with about the same amount of pressure and force. But not enough to overwhelm the machine. The wood is soft maple.

From left to right:
The carbide scraper. My least favorite tool of the three, because it leaves such a rough surface. But it was dead easy to use. You take the tool, you hold it horizontally, and just feed it with moderate pressure, and it wastes away the material. It's exactly what a roughing tool is supposed to do. My only complaint is that there are splinters on the edges of the cut. On harder materials, I would guess it works better; on softer materials you would have a worse, rougher surface.

The continental gouge is historically the oldest design of the group. It is basically a wide, shallow gouge with a slight curvature to the face of the gauge. This particular one is one inch wide and a joy to use. The tools roughs out well and is very easy to control. While not as fast cutting as a roughing gouge, it allowed me plenty of control. The final surface was pretty good. It's also a versatile tool because you can do a lot of finishing cuts with it.

The three quarter inch roughing gouge on the right differs from both a spindle gouge and the continental gouge in that its front is sharpened straight across and the sides go up high and vertical, so they can slice interrupted grain cleanly. The tool profile is more of a "U" than a gentle curve. What you get is a tool that produces very thick shavings very quickly, and makes short work of turning a square billet round. It also is a very reliable tool in that you don't have a sense that you're about to fall off the edge of the Earth or anything like that. It certainly cuts faster than the continental gouge. As you can see, it leaves a reasonably clean surface.

I think the Continental gouge is a very versatile tool. Even when you're not roughing, it takes nice wide shallow cuts. But in terms of actual roughing, the roughing gouge is the winner. I just didn't like the square scraper: the surface it left is rough. I didn't feel the need to use a scraper since I didn't have trouble with the gouges.

If I were a more experienced turner than I am, I would follow the roughing gouges work with a skew chisel to create a perfect cylinder with a perfect surface. Neither the continental or roughing gauges really chew up your surface, so there's not much material to remove to get something perfect. Since I'm less than experienced turner, I find having a fairly decent cylinder from the Continental gouge to be actually quite nice.

If I were doing smaller work, my guess is a less aggressive Continental gouge might be a better choice, although all of these tools come lots of sizes, including pretty small tools meant for pen turning. If I only had one roughing gouge, I wouldn't want one too much smaller.

The most important takeaway from this experiment is that - as in most areas of woodworking - many different options work, provided that the tool is sharp. While there are cases in turning where something won't work well - for example, using a spindle gouge inside a bowl - overall you could do an awful lot of turning with just a spindle gouge and either a roughing gouge or continental gouge (just make to it easier). The most important thing I did during this test wasn't learning some secret technique handed down by turners since 1642. Rather it was making sure my tools were sharp and of the correct geometry when I sharpened them. I am spending time at the lathe nearly every day and as my experience grows and my technique gets better, my turning is naturally improving. I am going faster with far fewer catches and slip-ups.

The continental gouge on the left is ground with the nose sticking out slightly. The roughing gouge on the right is ground square

 The bookshelves I made for the grandsons are done. I just have to apply the shellac. It won't be finished today. Tomorrow I have a PET scan at the West Roxbury VA at 0800. I don't think I'll be getting any shop time on wednesday. I'll have to get up at oh dark thirty (0430) to catch the shuttle from the Providence VA to the West Roxbury VA. Don't know zip about when the shuttle returns to Providence?

one down, one to go

Came back to the shop after dinner and got all the Miller dowels installed. A final sanding, knock back the arrises, and this will be ready for shellac.

I like it

I added another dowel on the shelf. When I had glued it up I had to clamp the middle of the shelf to pull the end in tight. Added a dowel in the middle to keep it that way.

surprise

Got two 6mm fine nuts and one 6mm fine wing nut. I wasn't sure that ACE sold metric fine threads and the wing nut totally surprised me.

nope

There isn't sufficient room for the wing nut. If I tighten the big screw down as far as I can, I then can't turn the wing nut. I liked this option because it is toolless.

10mm open end wrench

I have had this wrench for a bazillion years and I have absolutely no idea why. Finally have a use for it - it is the size needed for this nut. This worked and the iron didn't slip/loosen/change when I used it on the back slat mortises. I tossed the wrench in the box with the router.

not my best

Three of the mortises were slightly oversized, it would seem I didn't reach under the back slats enough when I marked them. The back slats weren't snug. One back slat wasn't self supporting on the cheeks but was on the top/bottom. This one will definitely need Miller dowels to keep it together.

hmm.......

The shelf was self supporting - the right one gave in to gravity. The clamp was to ensure that the shelf fully seated in the dado at the front.

the worse one

A piece of oak veneer (the thickest I have) it just a frog hair too thin. The top/bottom of the slat will pick up the end but gravity wins. I'll glue this in when I glue up the bookshelf.

glued and cooking

The center bar clamp on the shelf didn't pull in the ends as much as it did on the first one yesterday. In spite of the loose back slats I didn't have any headaches gluing and clamping this up.

chamfering the feet

I let the bookshelf cook for a couple of hours before I took the clamps off and installed the Miller dowels. I forgot to put the veneer in but the back slat swelled and the gap closed up. Unexpected, but I'll take it and move on smartly.

done

A little premature but they are done and will be ready to go when I make the desks.

pretty good match

The sizes of the parts are all identical. I used the end of the first one to layout it out on the second one. The only thing that isn't the same is the back slats on 2nd bookshelf are a 1/4" closer to the back edge of the ends. On the first bookshelf the front edge of the back slats is aligned with the back edge of the shelf.

The three frames are at the Frame it shop. Based on what I saw in her shop, I'll check on them at the end of the first week in March.

accidental woodworker

 My truck failed the state inspection. I knew that was going to happen because I had long crack in the windshield. What I didn't know were the problems with the control arms and the back brakes plus a few other minor headaches. Total estimate is $1600 but that is dependent upon how bad the rear brakes are. 

shelf dadoes first

The goal was to get this glued and cooking today.

done

Three coats on the back and four on the front. They are ready to go to Maria in the AM.

left one self supporting

I've come a long way since I starting chopping dadoes this way. I had to plane the underside before it fit. Better that than a sloppy, loose fit.

ditto for the right one

I got both of these to seat fully and especially at the front. I had to clamp them to close them tight.

sigh.....

This router works well for getting the slat mortises to the same depth as the dadoes. However, today it would not stay set - the back screw would loosen and the depth of the iron would increase. The solution is to put a nut to help and hold the iron where it is set. The headache is the locking screw is metric. After faffing about I finally figured out it is a 6mm fine thread. I couldn't go to ACE because the truck was in the shop and my wife was off doing her dead people stuff. I'll come back to this in the AM.

it worked

Used my two small routers to get the dadoes and slat mortises to the same depth. The depth ending up being an 1/8" deeper than I wanted them. Not a big deal but it was an annoying hiccup.

side by side

The left one is for the grandson(s) and the right is the request. The biggest difference is the size of the shelf. I am going to try my best to make both of the ones I'm making for the grandsons to be the same.

side view

The end heights are about the same but the width is 2" more on the left one.

hmm......

This shape is growing on me. Most of my previous ones I made the tops on the ends parallel to the bottom.

finally understand this

When I first got this I had a ton of problems setting the angle. Yesterday and today it just fell into place for me. The key for me was to make the lock handle the reference. DUH.

oops

Made a me-steak here. I should have sawn the angle first and then the cutout for the legs.  I was able to 'fix' it. I sawed the angle and sawed the cutout again.

worked

I had to saw the back half of the cutout again. Rasped and sanded it smooth. No need to go nutso here because it isn't visible.

for the Miller Dowels

This worked well on two builds. I'll add this step to future ones going forward.

goal met

Glued and cooking. I might do the Miller dowels after dinner.

Lowes run

When the shop called with the good news about truck, after I picked it up I went home via Lowes. Picked up  two, four foot 1x12s. Sawed out a clear section from one board to be the shelf for the 2nd grandson's bookshelf.

the ends

As I did with the first grandson's bookshelf, I didn't thickness the ends to 9/16". Instead I labeled the reference face as the inside. The opposite face I just flattened. I didn't attempt to make it parallel to the reference at all. I think it looks good having the ends as the anchors being a wee bit thicker than the other parts. 

left side laid out

If I didn't have to deal with the truck issues today, I might have gotten the dadoes/mortises chopped today. I don't anticipate any hiccups betting it glued and cooking in the AM.

accidental woodworker

 The little guy on my right shoulder says the Pats will win. It is 1644, Feb 8, 2026. I don't know how good the Seahawks are. I only saw a partial game of theirs. The Superbowl has come a long, long way. I still remember Superbowl I 59 years ago. I was only 12 at the time and I wasn't a sports nut. Fast forward to now I'm still not a sports nut and if I can't watch the game I'll survive.

2nd bookshelf

I guess making these again isn't like riding a bike after a bazillion years. I remembered some things and brain farted royally on others. Got both ends of the shelf to be self supporting. At least the woodworking didn't go south on me. 

Lost the rest of the pics for this blog post. The camera SD card has been acting up for a couple of weeks, mostly giving random card errors. Tonight after the first pic I got another card read error when I tired to post the 2nd pic. Couldn't clear it and I got the same error in my two laptops and the shop computer. 

So I went back to the shop after dinner and snapped a couple of more pics to finish the blog post for the AM. I tossed the SD card in the shitcan while I was there. I've been using this one for a couple of years and SD card have a cycle life limit.

2nd bookshelf

Got 3 coats of shellac on the bottom and I should be done with it in the AM.

One thing I did on this one was once the dadoes and mortises were done, I drilled holes for the Miller dowels. No more placement/layout headaches. Got everyone of them right on with no me-steaks.

one of two more

Decided to make two more bookshelves, one each for the grandson's desks. Initially I had enough scraps to make them. I used my last Gurney's sawmill 1x12 for the ends and the slats. I am making these a little bigger than the 2nd replacement one so it will hold school books.

two of two

Got the ends and the back slats. I'll come back to this one after I get the first one glued and cooking.

toast, extremely burnt toast

These were the shelves for the two bigger bookshelves. However, when I was thicknessing the 2nd shelf, I couldn't remove the twist. I see sawed back and forth with it. I would remove some but not quite enough. Plane it a little more and check for twist and see that it was worse than before. It finally got to a point where I was chasing my tail in circles. 

The right one (the 2nd shelf)was cupped and twisted. This board was case hardened I think because I had a difficult time cross cutting it to length. I went back and checked the first one and it had cupped, not as bad as the 2nd one, but enough for it to be unusable.

I had one board I had thicknessed  a month ago to 9/16" that I used to make one shelf. I'll have to make a run to Lowes to buy a 1x12 to get another shelf.

getting there

I had forgotten about these two frames. Glad I noticed them because I still can get them done before tuesday. Monday the Frame it shop is closed but it opens on tuesday. I'll bring them and the brown one then.

Got lucky with the Super Bowl. My digital antenna picked up NBC which is broadcasting it. This was the second time I watched broadcast TV with the digital antenna. I quit cable TV over a year ago and I haven't missed it. Now I watch You Tube and Amazon Prime Video.

accidental woodworker

It's been several months now that I've had problems with Unplugged Shop, the site to which many of us go to read woodworking blogs.  For long stretches the site doesn't update with current blogs, and when it finally works again, it's short lived and then doesn't update for another while.

I'm probably not allowed to use this image, so I'll just say it's trademarked and thank them for the use of it.

In addition, my blog doesn't seem to be included anymore on the Unplugged Shop aggregator.  I've contacted them about it to get reinstated, but I don't know if anyone monitors that site anymore.

I don't mean to be an ingrate because this has been a free service that they provide and I truly appreciate it.  I can only imagine that it takes more work than I realize to keep it running.

Does anyone out there know what is going on with them?  Please comment if you do.

out of the clamps

Everything looked ok - joints were tight and it felt solid. It was laying dead nuts flat on the workbench too. 

layout for the Miller dowels

Two in each end of the shelf and decided to put two in each end of the back slats.

spider sense was tingling

Something wasn't as it was with all the other bookshelves I had made. The alarm bells starting waking up when I saw that the back slats weren't parallel to the back edge of the ends. Not being parallel made it a wee bit more difficult to layout for the Miller dowels.

not bad

Why can't I saw an angle like this when I try 45s? Thought of this to use as a gauge stick to layout the Miller dowels.

yikes

At least this dowel boo boo came out on the bottom. I went 11 for 12 and the mishap was because I picked the wrong pencil line.

hmmmmmm........

This is definitely ain't what I had done with the other bookshelves. The top slat is too forward and not parallel to the back edge. 

toast

I rounded the two front corners and I did them too much. A portion of the round got buried in the dado not to mention there is a )&^@%*_Q_)#@^*_Q)*% gap.

not right

Instead of the shelf titling backwards, front to back, it tilts down, back to front. That means whatever is put on the shelf ain't staying there. Now it has gone from toast to burnt toast and charcoal.

confirmation

The CDs are staying in place but they look odd. It is only 7° but it is easily seen. I can't give this to anyone because of my bone headed, brain fart me-steak.

nope

Tried to salvage this by sawing the bottom legs. That idea fizzled and died because the legs aren't long enough. Thought of adding pads to them and that would have worked but I nixed it. The top slat being inset too much ruins any attempt to salvage it. I will saw off the slats and the shelf and reuse them for another bookshelf.

2nd bookshelf

These bookshelves don't require a lot of stock. Got all that I needed from the scrap pile. It is a wash, rinse, and repeat of what I did yesterday.

layout

Did it right this time. The shelf and back slats form a right angle (at the back and the front). The tilt of the shelf comes from the 7° angle on the bottom. On the first one I had laid out the shelf at a 7° from the front edge and also had sawn the bottom at a parallel 7°. If I had left bottom square to the front/back, it would have worked.

ready to be chopped

Made and caught a potential me-steak on the left end. I initially laid out the slat mortises on the front edge rather then the back edge.

maybe

Didn't get any paint on these today. I stayed in the shop until 1540 and I might get these painted after dinner.

It had snowed on friday overnight and it snowed 3 times today. The driveway and walk got shoveled twice but nothing after the 3 dump. I'll deal with it in the AM. The shoveling outings cut into my shop time and I wasn't able to complete the 2nd bookshelf. Should be able to wrap that up in the AM.

accidental woodworker 

 Today I finally did some woodworking. It was a blessed relief after playing with paint and shellac for seemingly a bazillion years. It was a request project of something I went nutso making several years ago. I still have 7 of them in my house that I use. It was like riding a bike after a bazillion hiatus, I didn't forget how to do it.

done

The brown frame finally got a check mark in the done column. I noticed this poster on a few You Tube vids I saw over the past few weeks. I will bring this one to Maria tomorrow and the black frames next week.

sigh

Two coats of black and it needs one more on the interior. Three coats on the green and it needs at least one more. 

all three

The white vertical lines are the bare plywood peeking through and shaking hands with me. The sides still don't have complete coverage. I expected the plywood to cover better than pine but both have dismal coverage.

raking light

No shellac today. I did one last eyeballing and I saw some white in raking light on the arris of the bevels. Only this frame needed some paint but I'll wait and apply shellac to both in the AM.

the request

I had brought two of these to my niece's house when my sister came up for a visit. She asked if I would make another one for her. This one is perfect for CDs/DVDs or even paperback books.

the measurements

These measurements are not carved in stone. I'll gather up stock from the pile and the size of them will have the final say. 

need four pieces

3/4" stock is too thick for this CD/DVD/bookshelf so I'll thickness the stock down 9/16". First step is to untwist, straighten, and flatten one face and square one edge to it.

done

Got a reference face and reference edge. Two of the boards had humps and no twist. The other two were relatively flat but with some twist.

knife lines

I don't have much to remove - not quite an 1/8". I like to darken the knife lines so I can gauge my progress.

done

Two ends, one shelf, two back slats and one extra for an oops. Took me a little over 30 minutes to plane the five of them to 9/16" (~14mm).

hmm.......

Got the layout done for the shelf and back slats. All the angles  are 7 degrees. This is something I screwed up royally more times than I care to recall. Usually I would saw the bottom angle in the wrong direction. Another favorite screw up was laying out the mortises for slats either on the wrong side of the layout line or laying out the mortise too high or reversing it with it mate on the other end piece. No layout me-steaks today but that was because I double, triple checked my self a bazillion times before committing to knifing the notches and mortises.

hmm......

Thought out loud to myself and had a good conversation and decided to wait on this one. I sawed the angle correctly and before I saw the cutout for the legs, I want to make sure that I don't cut into the notches for the shelf.

shelf dadoes done

Got these whacked out just before the lunch bell rang. 

mortises done

These can be difficult to do because they are only 1 1/4" long. I don't have any routers that will do a flat bottom from top to bottom (or bottom to top). There is a web in the middle that I have to use a chisel to flatten and check with a sliding square. BTW if I made the back slats 1 1/2" I do have a router that would make a flat bottom easy peasy.

dry fit

Two of the back slat mortises are loose and one is sloppy. The other pieces are snug and they are holding it together.

it is square

The depth of the mortises and the shelf dadoes are the same. The length of the back slats and the shelf are the same too. That is what helps to get and keep the whole thing square.

ends are square too

Initially the ends weren't square. I clamped the shelf and that pulled the ends tight and seated the shelf in the dadoes - then it was square.

glued and cooking

The plan is to let this cook until the AM before taking the clamps off. 

Miller Dowels

The plan is use two dowels in each end of the shelf and one dowel (maybe two) in the ends of the back slats. That should help and keep everything together and tight. I have had two of these bookshelves come apart between the ends and the shelf. Fixed those with Miller Dowels and no headaches since.

1/8" Baltic Birch plywood

Got this from Amazon for $53 and change for 12 pieces. 12" wide and 24" long and I know I paid more than this the last time I ordered some. Says it is from Woodpeckers but I'm not sure if it is the same one that makes the Red Aluminum stuff.

came today too

I bought 3 of these pigments, black, blue, and green. Two came today and one is coming tomorrow. All 3 are from the same place so I don't understand why the broken shipment?

pulled the trigger

There were two things I always had on my person when I was in the Navy. The first was my ID card and the second was a Buck 3 bladed pocket knife. Still have an ID but the Buck is taking a dirt nap over 25 years ago. 

My wife had given me a gift certificate from Lee Valley and I got this knife. Bigger (longer) than my Buck and it is probably illegal to carry this on my person. I'll keep it in the shop and use it there. I'm really interested in seeing how well this keeps an edge.

accidental woodworker 

Consider the strength of the end to side-edge joinery which we have put into three categories: mortise pair and free tenon, Domino, and dowel.  When did you see a properly made joint fall? I never have in my work. The dowel joint gets the most criticism regarding strength. Let’s discuss that. As an example, consider […]

Every winter brings about some damage to the waterline for the hydroelectric turbine, a/k/a the penstock.  Usually this is because a tree branch has fallen on some of the 1100′ of 2-inch Schedule 40 PVC, which is cheap but gets really brittle when cold.  I knew from the very beginning that replacing some of the PVC every Spring would be an issue but just accepted it as the cost of doing business. Last year was great, I had to replace and patch only two little sections.  2015 was the worst as I had to replace 600-feet of pipe.

Except for the last thirty feet all of the penstock is above ground.  I did originally get an estimate to burying the entire penstock well below the frost line, but the >$75k+ price tag was a bit much.  My hydroelectric system is more of a hobby than anything else, at least until the EMP or CME or some other grid-down calamity, so that wasn’t in the cards.

This damage was peculiar because it was a compound spiral fracture which is only supposed to happen as a result of water freezing in the pipe and bursting it.  Since I drained the system in November this damage was a head-scratcher.  I am not looking forward to surveying the entire length of pipe once the snow and ice are gone.

I am now rethinking the penstock altogether.  Rather than sticking with PVC I am going to check into industrial irrigation polypropylene line which is continuous and much more forgiving to the forces that bust the PVC.  Since a pressurized/enclosed water line can run down to about -15 degrees maybe I could even keep it running year-round.

Stay tuned.

Elm is one of our more unusual hardwoods in that its whole infrastructure, though reliant on the same essential working components are the same as all other trees, the outcome of what its capillaries transport from root hair tips to leaf top tips is a wood, as in its inner core stem, that's not like any other. That's why I say it is a timber of character, a multi-personality that defies similar means and methods of working when it comes to working it with conventional hand tools. In some ways, I'd say it might better match my own personality, in that its only predictability is, in fact, its unpredictability. Go to split it with an axe for a straight-grain split, even where the grain looks absolutely straight, and within any given inch it will duck, dive, twist and turn a dozen times before dipping where you least want or expect it to. No other western species comes even close. Here in Britain, you'll find it mostly used in vintage chairs where the seats were shallowly hollowed to fit children's smaller bottoms so you'll find it, especially in school seating for children past, not today, of course, moulded plastic replaced wood mostly and then formed plywood as well. It's a rougher, crude and coarse-grained hardwood that's not particularly hard but highly characterful and often loaded with every kind of defect ranging from a mass of diversely different knots to checks, shakes and splits, pretty much the same thing, along with stunted buds from sprouts that never developed into branches or twigs but left an intertwined mass like a knotted ball of sting within the bark of the tree stem. It''s this interlocking that protrudes from the main stem of the tree we refer to as a burr (UK) and burl (USA). Beneath these protrusions, inside the tree, is the stunning and highly sought-after, decorative feature wood comprising a complexity of swirling grain patterns, deep, dark contrasting knots enveloped by impressive grain configurations, and a mass of different 'eyes' caused by localized, abnormal growth.

My deciding to keep my wood pieces in the original profile rather than rip cut width and depth to even sizing resulted in my 'climbing wall' look I ended up with. That being so, this book case will have to be tethered to the wall at the top with a fastening or more likely an English cleat...just in case!

This is my most recent 2026 bookshelf piece, which came from large slabs of elm I bought six years ago. I had brought them indoors and left them stood on end to fully dry in my better controlled workshop environment. Knowing the tendency of elm to twist and turn as long as there is any excess of moisture there in the wood, I needed these levels to be as low as is practicable. This wood had been stored wrongly, but I knew that when I bought it and looked forward to it having added character from the neglect. It did not disappoint.

I often rely on old wooden planes because they offer a completely different dynamic to stock preparation, making it lighter and easier to accomplish. These planes float across wild wood like swans on a lake. No metal plane gives the same feeling or outcome––not a single one, but especially not the heavy weights people selling planes always espouse. Weight, with wooden plane bodies, evaporate with the first stroke.

It was during the COVID pandemic that I started to tame my wood pile. Hard to think how that botched-up control of the world through fear and manipulation caused such a global mess. Politics, manipulation and control freaks! During my self-isolating at the workshop, I found time to take care of things through the newly afforded space of time in the workshop; I cleared up my new wood acquisition by cutting off the excesses of rough bark and heavy rot to better stack and control about forty beams of mixed elm and beech. The beech has been beautiful with such spalting definitive of beech spalting and I have made five sizeable pieces for the house from it thus far.

We made this small office suite for the landing of Sellers'home at the top of the stairway. The corner-fitting desk, the chair and the filing cabinet are made from the spalted beech.

This wood was all rough sawn by bandsaw and needed planing level and smooth to remove warpage. I trued one of the larger flat faces and used that face to reference to my bandsaw table to give me square adjacent faces and parallel widths. The bandsaw cuts the wood easily with no negative flexing as with other woods. I was surprised to have people advise me that planing it by hand with bench planes would be too onerous and problematic. Most woodworkers do tend to exaggerate the hardships of working with some particular woods from their region, but few woodworkers today are used to hand planing their wood and persevering under that kind of hardship. The wood came together just fine, and it really was not hard or difficult to work in any way at all, despite the mass of knots and other defects.

My rip-cut stack starts the beginning of the workshop journey after I ripped off any excesses but prefacing this was a hundred-mile trip to collect it from bad storage under a leaking tarp. This is a mixture of beech and elm. The neglectful storage enhanced the outcome for me with diverse influences of degrade. Most of it is now used up in our Sellers' home projects.

I am expecting some movement when the unit gets anchored to the wall. We will see how much. The thing is this, though. Wood moves through atmospheric changes in exchanges occurring through varying levels of warmth and moisture––it's a given that these changes take place continuously in most home and office environments. In a family of say four, the atmosphere will be more highly charged with atmospheric moisture––showering and cooking will be partly to blame because people hang out in the shower longer or cooking takes more than say for one person, perhaps heating up a ready-meal in a microwave. I shower after work to get clean and free from dustiness, others, most if not all, now shower to go to work or even shower two times a day. My hair is short and is dried with a towel with two quick rubs. Not so for long hair. All of this changes the dynamic our wood pieces must live with, and wood WILL and DOES swell...all the time!

The paleness of spalting and then bug runs and wormholes add to the texture of this particular workpiece and I have kept rather than discarded those bits normally thrown out or burned. It's this diversity that I have retained in the wood's grain for gain in this particular depiction of natural wood decline leading to its return to the earth. I wanted to keep its silent passage as it's all part of the earth's unspoken story.

I am convinced, I could be wrong, that most of my woodworking counterparts would have discarded a lot of the pieces I chose to work with and keep. I wanted the character marks of various decline phases as influences on the wood. Now that I am old, I saw elements of my own personality reflected in my elm. Sometimes the wood seemed just a tad grizzly, but I kept those bits to work on my own stubbornness. Then there were the cracks and fissures; some were caused by the drying process and the lack of climate control to even out the pace, whereas others came when the tree was dropped. I recall two years ago when the mean-spirited man attacked me from behind and broke three of my ribs. This tree was dropped and when that happens the shock in the fall, the crashing to the ground caused cross-stem-fracture which is not the more generally accepted cracking along or with the grain.

There's a lot to take in on this journey, and even in an eight-inch jag like this we have lots to learn. The bottom corner where the first housing dado accepts the shelf has a typical gathering of small 'dead' knots to contemplate before any actual cutting takes place. Two inches above is a cross-grain fissure that passes from this side to the other. This was not caused by shrinkage, but by shock when the tree was initially dropped.

And then there are the remains of the spike showing the root of rootedness of a branch in the main tree stem at the top. Shifts in colour, grain configuration all track the history of the tree over many decades. Pollution, atmospheric shifts in climate, factor into our trees and the dendrochronology, the science of analysing and interpreting the growth evidenced in the tree stem over decades and centuries that determine what took place and when according to its scientific evaluation. Through this, we have been better able to establish a more precise environmental record, allowing researchers to study past climates, ecological events, and date archaeological sites or wooden artifact. Think of these trees as passengers on the earth. Stagnant in distance moves, but on board the ocean of soil polluted by our greed and poor stewardship.

A swirling mass of variation characterises elm in business. The hidden joints will hold flatness and eliminate the risk of twist over the coming century of use. It's the signature joint of all bookshelves, and I have made thousands upon thousands throughout my life. It's no exaggeration to say perhaps at least a hundred thousand of them and all hand cut with saws, chisels and hand-router plane.

My fingers trace the passage of my refining work now that the finish is on, and I have settled the matter of taking the rough-sawn tree slabs to the house. The two coats are so thin they don't measure by human touch. I feel now that I am touching the wood in all of its glory. My first sealer coat was 50/50 dewaxed clear shellac and denatured alcohol. It's also a perfect sander coat, so sanding is done in seconds to the silkiest glass smoothness you've ever felt anywhere. My first-level topcoat for this project is Osmo Polyx hard wax clear satin oil. Of course, we use all kinds of terms like 'oil' and 'resin' when many such terms are erroneous, often intended to mislead, present s natural, really. But you can mix any fluids you like together and call them 'Danish oil' (nothing to do with the Danes) or 'resin' or just 'oil' and sell them as such if you want to. Without data sheets, we really don't know what we are working with.

Grain, for us makers with hand tools, is not a surface-skimming snapshot, but an in-depth, inner-fibre play investigation every time we plumb the depths of a joint, or plane and saw into it. I have added no colour to this wood. All I did was plane, scrape and sand the wood to 250-grit and apply clear shellac as a sealer/sanding coat to lock the fibres ready for the Osmo oil.

There is no stain or colouring in the finishing material I applied, nor anything applied to actually colour the wood as a base colour. Put either the shellac or Osmo on on clear glass, and you can see through it with only the very slightest opacity and zero colour.

These medullary rays reminded me of the billions of stars of the night skies that just go on and on forever. Quite spectacular. Stunning, altogether too marvellous for words.

The plexus of joints and joinery complicate the simplicity of looks as I work through my choices surrounding the uncomplicated use of housing dadoes. Seventeen joints deliver roughly 50" of shoulder lines for lateral stability, but the amazing element is this: measuring corner to corner after the glue up and clamp removal. The corner to corner diagonal measurements are exactly the same. The significance? I didn't check because I wanted to know if it would be square, but so I could briefly discuss it here. It's a personality issue. I knew that I had worked accurately enough on each knifewall shoulder with my hand tool methods alone to delivery a dead square project because of the mass of shoulder lines. Factor into all of this about 120" of dado length, and you see that working with hand tools is indeed a character-building exercise for good mental and physical health. This is soul-strengthening work rather than soul-destroying work, in my view.

The joinery making in elm using hand tools is not hard at all, actually, it's easy, but I often think elm is born without lignin; the wood sometimes seems to have no lignin uniting the fibres, the bio-plastic occurring naturally in plantilfe is the glue that gives it rigidity and also has growing applications in bio-plastics and carbon fibres. The issue then is that bits fall off in the short grain of say dovetails and such. That point right on the corner.

At this point, I have assembled and disassembled about five times, with an average on each joint somewhere about 7 times. This is essential to ensure every joint seats well at first, but then that no one joint compromises another in the grand assembly and before gluing up. Does that mean gap-free togetherness? I'm afraid not. I thought that I did have all the joints full seated but found a couple that I should have clamped and missed. I slid in a slither and glued it in place. The final place may never be seen, but the slither neatly placed and trimmed definitely looked better than a gap, for sure.

The clamps consolidate the mass until those thin films of plastic glue unite. Taking off the clamps is to 'bring the work to rest.' There's always a settledness to this sense of preeminence over my wood, my tools and the overall completion of work. Oh, see the bent stick of plywood between the underside of the top and the top of the lower shelf. I think it's worth noting. This applies pressure where a clamp had a negative effect.

Did I use screws? I used four. Why? I missed gluing one of the housing dadoes for one reason or another. When I took the clamp off, it came apart by half a millimetre. I did squeeze in some glue but had no idea where it spread to, so I predrilled the holes to guide two long screws from underneath that bottom shelf into one of the sides and plugged the holes with wooden plugs. One of the uprights was not wide enough so I glued and screwed an added two inches in width. The screws were so I could keep working and didn't have to wait a few hours for glue to dry. Not impatient, just time saving.

My knowledge of woodworking from tree-dropping to finished pieces in the hundreds tells me that this fissure is a shock result occurring most of the time when the tree is dropped from standing rooted to the earth it grew in for two hundred years in this case. In other words, it did not occur during the growth of the living tree but in its felling. This is cross-grain splitting, where the sheer weight of the tree was too much for the stem. The fissure was in adjacent slabs either side and there was no degrade through the kind of rot that would have been present in a growing tree or a standing dead version.

You will notice that in my remedial steps it was because I really had no other option. Yes, there were compromises. I'm a practical and pragmatic maker, I have to be, but then making videos for teaching and training (and entertainment too) adds the extra dimension that often interrupt the flow of thought and the work patterns I always work to that generally disallow such issues.

Alongside my slender, sliver of a gap-filler are the original sawmill bandsaw marks I retained as evidence for the year 2126 so their forensics can paint their own picture on an earth-borne tree of magnificence but long since extinct.

When it comes to the joinery, some things might not be too obvious at first glance. Yes, they are all what I would refer to as housing dadoes. Why housing dadoes? Never really heard of it? Well, transitionally., in my changing continents to live, experiencing life in woodworking there and having done the same in the UK, I discovered that we in the UK referred to dadoes as housing joints and never at that time referred to housings as dadoes, whereas in the UK a recess going with or across the grain would be a housing. In the US, a dado is a cross-grain channel, whereas one running with the grain would be a groove. I decided that housing dado fit the description better, and I continued to consider other recesses as housings, as in hinge recesses, lock recesses and so on.

The only real consistency between the various joints is the depths of the housing dadoes, which are all 3/8" (10 mm) deep.

My joints are variations on the theme. Some are through and some stopped. Another has a dovetail to the front end; we use these when we need an added mechanical aspect as a 'pull-resistance' factor: I've used them often on the cross rails between drawers to pull the cabinet sides in to bottom the housing dadoes out.

Life is like wood, it comes with knots in it. But it also comes with woodworm, spalting, full punky-rot, cracks, shrinkage and expansion along with other more negative susceptibilities. The alternatives are not acceptable to me and to my audience. We are not so much tolerant as accepting of the occasional inevitable realities of working with natural materials. I have accepted good quality plywoods but not low-grade alternatives, but I doubt that I will ever accept MDF or pressed fibreboard.

Elm is one of our more unusual hardwoods in that its whole infrastructure, though reliant on the same essential working components are the same as all other trees, the outcome of what its capillaries transport from root hair tips to leaf tips is a wood that’s not like any other. That’s why I say it...

Source

 Another boring day in the shop mopping the finishes for the frames. I think I'm done with the big frame, thankfully. The two black frames will probably be done on saturday. So that means it will be next week at the earliest before I get them to the Frame it Shop. Fingers crossed on that happening.

ready for shellac?

I got the last coat of black paint on both this AM. Since then I eyeballed them every half hour or so. No dust nibs to raise my blood pressure and no holidays neither. I'll let them rest and I'll put on shellac starting in the AM. 

yes it if finally done

I didn't feel that way in the AM. After I had applied what I thought was the final coat of shellac, I saw a big waterfall drip on the left long side in raking light. I had to scrape it with a mini card scraper. Initially I had sanded it and slapped some shellac on it. That did absolutely nothing to hide/cover the drip. Scraping it did and much thanks to shellac as a finish. The shellac I applied after that melted and blended in seamlessly.

hmm.......

I painted these four at 0800 and at 1500 the green ones were still a wee bit tacky. The black one dried to touch in about 15 minutes. The green frames have two coats on them and they definitely need at least one more. I expected this being a dark colored paint, that two coats would do it. I was wrong boys and girls.

I found 4 places in Rhode Island to buy hardwoods. Only one had 4/4 cherry (no 8/4) in stock. The other three only had 8/4 slabs. That would have worked for the legs but too thick for the rest of the needed stock. It is looking like I won't be able to avoid driving up to New Hampshire. Highlands has 5/4 and 8/4 cherry in stock. 

accidental woodworker 

 I have two projects in the shop, one done and the other almost done. Both of them combined are being a Royal PITA. The two of them are hogging about 40% of the available shop space. It is impossible to walk around the shop where they are. I also have to be super duper careful moving stock around so I don't hit either one.

The bookcase is the one that is finished and it won't be leaving until my wife brings it to North Carolina. I would put it in the boneyard but my wife is rearranging things there so it sits in the shop for now. 

The frame for the wood poster is the one I want to be done with. At least with that one I can bring it upstairs and leave it in the living room. After this frame was glued up it has been difficult (&@%Q(_%&#@Q^%*)_+)_ to ignore. It is tippy and it would fall off whatever I had it laying on. It will be a huge relief to have it out of the shop ASAP.

hmm......

I didn't happen boys and girls. I thought I was going to be putting a check mark in the done column with these two. There were a ton of dust nibs on both sides of both of the frames.  My workbench is under the living room and walking there showers the frames with dust etc etc. Another Royal PITA. 

Sanding the frames with 320 initially didn't work that well. I had to use a mini card scraper first to remove the nibs and flatten them. I also went a wee bit postal scraping a few more drips in the corners I missed previously. And there were a few more paint build ups along the edges from the last application of paint. After the scraping I sanded the frames, front and back, with 320 grit. That evened and smoothed out the finish.

prepping

I had 5 colors to pick from for painting these shadow box frames. I chose green because it was high gloss enamel. The other choices were either satin or semi gloss. I'm leaving the backs natural with shellac. The rest of the frame will all be painted green.

3 green and one black

The frames on the right are green and the bottom left one is black. Same thing with the back natural and rest black. Not sure what or if I'll use this because it is an odd size that doesn't match standard small photos.

3 down, 1or 2 more

I got 3 on the back and that is done. The front has 3 coats and I'll put on at least one more. I'll check on it in the AM and decide then whether or not it will need another coat.

This is all I got down today. With limited space to maneuver and waiting for shellac and paint to dry I couldn't get much done. I'm still on the fence about driving to New Hampshire too. I've been searching on line for closer Hardwood sellers without any success. It sucks pond scum that Highlands isn't open on saturday anymore. 

accidental woodworker

I started this blog in 2007 to share and talk about my woodworking and guitar making. I am very grateful that my blog has been on the two best woodworking aggregators: Norse Woodsmith and Unplugged Shop. Thanks to them the word got about my work.

The other day, I noticed that Unplugged Shop didn’t share my last post and took down the previous post on their website.  Since this happened I have noticed that the number of visitors to my website are down. I  submitted a request to have my website appear on their aggregator, I haven’t heard back from them. 

I wonder if the AI robot that assists their website doesn’t consider a guitar maker to be a “woodworker”? Is it because I don’t make stick chairs or turn bowls anymore? And that I don’t post much “how to” about guitar making? I’m a little baffled by Unplugged Shop’s action.

I hope that norsewoodsmith.com continues to share my and other woodworkers blog posts, I am very grateful for that old school aggregator. Thanks!