Hand Tool Headlines
The Woodworking Blogs Aggregator
NOTICE:
Norse Woodsmith will be going offline for possibly up to a week during the month of February to attempt a major site upgrade. If it is successful it will return, however it may look wonky for a while while I dial it in. If not successful, well.. then your guess is as good as mine! Thanks in advance for your patience.
Norse Woodsmith Blog Feeds
Neatniks R Us (Not!)
One of the great things about possessing and occupying the barn is that I have 7,000 square feet of space. And occupy it I do. Lots of storage, lots of work space(s). As a matter of fact, I have more than a dozen work stations allowing me to set up multiple projects, moving from one to the other as needed. Or more truthfully, moving from a cluttered one to a less cluttered one.
Thus the down side to occupying the barn. It needs more regular cleaning than I am inclined to do.
I have two dear friends, MikeM and MartinO, whose shops are so neat and orderly at all times they are what critics of shop videos would say, “It looks like no one ever works there, they are too clean.” I can attest that Mike and Martin are indeed so orderly their shops do look that way. Whether it is by necessity or temperament, the shops reflect the orderliness of the men themselves. Everything is in its place, put away immediately after use. Everything is kept clean, all the time, beginning with the moment a task is completed.
I will resist the churlish temptation to brand this as some sort of psychosis (smile). Alas, I do not possess the traits these two neatniks have as my operating system.
For the past few months I have been paying the price for my own poor housekeeping habits, working my way back into regular shop time by cleaning the place, one work station at a time. The end in in sight but I know well enough the trial of messiness will return soon enough.
Here’s a partial montage of my work stations. I apologize in advance for the photography; trying to get good images when the space is ambient light and blinding snow reflection is blasting through the windows.
On the east wall, directly underneath a double row of windows is my FORP monster workbench, 8-1/2 feeet long and probably close to 500 pounds. This bench gets used almost every day, currently is is the working platform for assembling my parquetry units for the big tool cabinet I’m making. Underneath the bench is a cabinet full of marquetry/parquetry tools and supplies, and my stash of adhesives. They are located here to be near the wall propane furnace.
Turn around from Roubo and you’ll find my third child. If I was a Viking I would have this one buried with my in the mound. This bench, with one of my Emmerts on board, is my most used piece in the whole shop. I’m currently using it tp layout the doors of the parquetry tool cabinet.
One step behind and parallel to this bench is an early Roubo, not really successful but good enough to use as my metalworking and tool repair bench. It has an Emmert machinists vise on it, and many jigs underneath.
Midway along the north wall is another Roubo bench, now my primary finishing station. Underneath are cabinets full of brushes, pigments, and tube paints, etc.
Turn around from my finishing bench and you will find the Studleyesque bench I built for the exhibit now almost a decade ago. It is perfectly usable as a general bench, but I mostly use it for my sellable inventory underneath, and packaging orders to ship out.
Down in the northwest corner of my shop is my “fine work” bench, a salvaged and renovated Sjoberg I use for all manner of small scale work. Gunsmithing, engraving, checkering, silicone mold making, chasing, etc.
Literally adjacent to the Sjoberg bench is my writing station. You might not think writing is work, but I promise you it is. The chair frame was made by my Roubo translation collaborator Philippe Lafargue. I use a turned over seat deck from a long gone project as my lap desk.
In the corner opposite my engraving station is my waxworks, encompassing all manner of wax processing. It’s on top of a large map case unit full of veneers, mother of pearl pieces, and other exotic material. Keeping the waxwork tidy is an unwinnable proposition, I just try to keep it usable with minimal fuss.
And this is just some of the stuff inside my 15′ x 35′ heated shop.
Stepping outside the heated shop is the “great room” in the center of the floor. In the center of that is this Nichiols that I use whenever I am traveling to demonstrate traditional hand tool work. It gets used here too, currently for making a Japanese planing beam and the base frame for the parqutery tool cabinet.
The north side of the great room is just tool and supply storage, but along the south edge is the space for my lathe, chop saw, and a vintage machinist lathe I bought at Donnely’s and then it was restored by my long time friend Jersey Jon.
At the east end of the room, in front of the wall o’windows, are two rolling benches with a variety of power machines, and next to them is my drill press.
On the opposite side of the floor from my shop is a space I originally designated as a classroom. It contains several work stations for students, but now serves as an intermediate space for things in process of being “put away.”
Then on the fourth floor is my Gragg chair workshop.
At one end of the 40 x 24 space is my Roubo workbench, steam box and many bending and assembly jigs.
I also have a couple of large assembly tables that can be situated as the need arises.
So there is a truncated account of all the work stations I need to clean.
better today.....
The heel felt better today but I don't think I'm healed up yet. I put inserts in my shoes that the podiatrist gave me the last time this popped up. Those seemed to be making the difference. It didn't hurt much walking around and going up/down the stairs wasn't an ordeal. Still didn't get much time in the shop but I am making a dent in my reading.
hmm...... |
This is in the batters box. My daughter said the pic I asked for should coming my way tomorrow or the day after. I did a dry fit check and everything looked good still.
survived |
This was the most stressful glue up I have done in many moons. I started at one corner and on the third one I couldn't get the miter to close. The first corner I did was off - the toe on the long side was strong of the frame corner toe. By the time I got to #3 it was throwing it off. I had to use a clamp to pull the heel in alignment with the frame.
2nd coat |
The shop temp has been at 57F (14C) for the past few days but it didn't seem to have any effect on the tung oil drying. Both the lid and the box were dry everywhere I checked it. One surprising point that I wasn't expecting was both of them being new born baby butt smooth. The tactile feel of this is amazing and it didn't change with the 2nd coat which I checked a couple of hours after applying it.
5 hours later |
I am going to keep this clamped and cooking until tomorrow. However, I pulled off one clamp to check the molding. In past uses these clamps tended to leave a mark but there wasn't one this time. That is encouraging because it might mean I don't have to clean, sand, and repaint it, maybe.
the same |
I was expecting to have to paint the blue portion. This paint attracts dust and finger prints seemingly forever. I thought for sure the pads on the clamps would have left their imprint but it didn't. I only checked the one clamp but fingers crossed on the others behaving.
finally came in |
I ordered a loose tenon jig and tenons back in november(?) and the one pkg of tenons I really wanted have finally arrived. After seeing the measurements of them I bought some more 6mm tenons on Amazon. The only difference is the Amazon ones are 40mm long (these are 38mm) - I'll have to trim a few off millimeters.
been itching to try this |
I sawed a couple of test pieces about 8" long and the width is twice the width of one tenon.
first one done |
It looks better than it felt doing it. It took me a few strokes to get a feel for it. On my first attempt the depth was short because I didn't go through the entire cycle. The second one got me there. The drill (I used my 1/2" one) didn't seem to lack any power to 'drill' out the mortises. Along with doing a sideways motion you have to also apply a bit of forward pressure on the drilling operation.
short |
The left one was deep enough but the right one wasn't. Put it back in the jig and bottomed it out.
success |
I'm impressed with how flush this came out. I couldn't detect even one frog hair of difference on any side of this.
vacuum port |
I will have to figure out something for this. My current vacuum hose is bigger than this opening. This is needed to suck out the sawdust from the mortise as you drill it. That is what caused the right one being too short in the depth.
hmm...... |
The side to side is ok. The extra wiggle room allows for alignment. The top/bottom fit didn't give me a warm and fuzzy. It wasn't a snug fit and that is what I was expecting. It wasn't self supporting but when I turned it upside down, the tenon didn't fall out. I know there is an adjustment to tighten the side to side but I don't think there is one for the top/bottom. I'll find that out when I read the instruction manual again.
cooking |
I am a wee bit anxious about this setting up. Not sure if the the tenon will swell sufficiently to create a good glue bond. I'll find out in the AM.
accidental woodworker
day three of........
Last night before I went to bed my left foot was feeling better. I wasn't pain free but it had calmed down to a 3-4 on a scale of 0 (no pain) to 10 (look at me and I'll rip your face off pain). I slept through the night and didn't feel a peep out of it. When I got out of the rack my heel immediately shook hands with me. Pain level was at 6-7 and I was limping again. The only time I didn't feel it was after sitting down after a couple of minutes. Another day where I didn't get much shop time.
first trip to the shop |
This is the back of the frame and it needs another coat of paint. These two white spots are where some pine chips got stuck to it.
paint build up |
This rabbet had the heaviest build up of paint. This is where the glass and frame will live and it needs to be flat. I will have to paint this because if I don't it could reflect 'white' off the glass. Scraped all 4 rabbets and painted it. I am pretty sure this is all I will need to do paint wise on this frame. After this I hobbled my way back upstairs.
dozuki box lid (2nd trip to the shop) |
I used the tung oil with the citrus terpentine additive. I used this first because of it being able to penetrate deeper over tung oil without it. It has a citrus smell to it and it lingered in the shop for hours.
I was surprised and happy with how well it laid down on the end grain. I had sanded the ends up to 400 grit but I wasn't sure how the oil would look after application. It is smooth to the touch and the look. Sometimes after finish is applied to end grain it can still look rough - like it hadn't been sanded or planed.
I applied a thin coat of the tung oil to the entire box. I wasn't going to do the interior but I left oily finger prints all over it so I did it to. It felt smooth to the touch and much smoother than shellac feels even after a couple of coats. The instructions say to wait 12 hours before applying the second coat. I'll be waiting until the AM tomorrow.
Slow walked myself back upstairs. I did briefly think of doing something else but my foot interrupted me and nixed that. I tried standing on the fatigue mat that now lives in front of the washer and dryer, but it wasn't helping. I thought it being soft and squishy that my heel would like that. Instead of helping I felt unsteady standing on it.
final trip |
It was several hours later and the paint on the back was dry. I put the frame on the towel so it wouldn't pick up any crappola from the bench. That worked well doing that. The back could use another coat because there were a few light spots but this is the back and I'm calling it done.
The plan for the 3rd trip to the shop was to get the moldings attached to the frame. That didn't happen boys and girls. I forgot to bring a wet rag with me to wipe up glue squeeze out. I wasn't up to going upstairs to do that and come back to the shop. The foot was making its own plans and they didn't include doing this. Killed the lights for the day and headed back to the barn.
accidental woodworker
It Came Out Right

Project Phoenix: V
In this episode, I look at making the bridge and tailpiece and then the final assembly. There’s also a bit of as surprise for you??
getting old sucks.......
Yesterday I went on a post lunch stroll for the first time since I played the bounce test with the sidewalk. I did feel it a wee bit walking up the first hill but the rest of it was uneventful for the most part. What popped up at the half way point was my left heel started to ache then hurt like hell. I've had this headache before and it got worse as the day went on. I was limping pretty good by the time I hit the rack.
This AM it wasn't feeling any better. It hurt to stand and that ramped up if I walked around. It especially didn't feel lovely walking down/up the stairs to the workshop. I didn't get a lot done and I'll mostly be molding my butt cheeks to my desk chair until this calms down.
needs one more |
I could see streaks of 'white' on the frame. Fingers crossed that one more will do the trick.
some good news |
I'm calling this one done and putting a check mark in the done column. I have 5 coats of poly on the 4 stretchers so anything wet shouldn't effect it. It is a gloss finish which I don't like. IMO something like this should have a satin look to it.
chamfer work |
Standing to do this was barely tolerable. Realized that I don't stand in one spot in the shop for any length of time. I don't sit at all in the shop. I made a shop stool years ago and tried it once. It felt awkward and funny sitting to work at the bench. The stool is now an elevated horizontal storage surface tucked away in a corner.
chamfer done |
I use two blockplanes when I chamfer an edge. The big LN is used to waste away the majority. The smaller LN blockplane I use to finesse and fine tune the chamfer down to the pencil lines.
hinging the lid |
I'm not a fan of surface mounted hinges. To me that look incomplete and half ass done. I got these hinges from Lee Valley and they are 90° stop hinges. I have two sizes, this is the smaller one with the larger being roughly twice this size. In this situation I am warming up to them being surface mounted (the only way you can install them).
works freely |
The veneer was to give clearance for the hinges. The lid opens/closes and stops at 90° I have put these hinges on slightly cocked and I could feel that misalignment opening/closing the lid. Didn't do this time.
ready for the finish |
I read the instructions on the finish bottles (tung oil) and it says to sand up to 400 to 600 grit. I stopped at 400.
I think it is done |
4 hours after I painted the final coat on it (?) I sucked it up and went back to the shop to eyeball it. It was dry and I couldn't see any 'white' even in raking light. I will have to clean the back side and put another coat on it. It picked up a lot of crappola from laying on the bench. That will happen tomorrow.
maybe done |
I sanded these with 320 before I put on what I hope is the final coat. I noticed that the washboard planer marks weren't as pronounced as they were yesterday. Maybe I'll get lucky and this coat will fully fill and level them. This coat of paint looked good laying down and I couldn't see any evidence of the washboard.
before I killed the lights |
I removed the hinges to facilitate applying the tung oil finish.
Not much to show for today and this foot thing put a serious crimp in my schedule. I worked for as long as I could and couldn't stand the pain anymore. In the late afternoon walking to the head didn't hurt as much as it did in the AM. I thought of going back to the shop but by the time I got to the stairs it was hurting as much as it had been in the AM. I was trying to get back to the shop but nixed it. I'll wait it out and let it heal for a few more days.
accidental woodworker
A Better Use for MDF - A Form to Laminate Classical Guitar Sides
I used 3/4 inch thick MDF to get the width I wanted…
The width of the sides I use are just a little over 4 inches.
The form and sides will be stuffed into a large vacuum bag, these grooves will help the vacuum pump remove all the air in the bag.
Your First Plywood Project: One Sheet Plywood Desk
I recommended trying to build a desk for your first piece of furniture. The standard rectangle with four legs is simple enough for beginners to get stuck in, and will teach you valuable skills that you can use on more difficult projects.
I love using single sheets of ply to create a whole piece of furniture with little to no waste and there are many plans available online that can guide you through the process from initial measurements to putting the finishing touches on your new desk.
Here’s a basic (and free) step by step guide that can take you from sheet to desk with some basic power tools. The basic outline is as follows:
1. Gather supplies. Get your plywood, power tools, pocket hole jig, sandpaper and finish, clamps, wood glue, and fasteners.
2. Layout your pieces on the ply. This will help ensure you get the best use out of your material.
3. Cut out your pieces using your circular saw or track saw.
4. Trim them to size with the miter saw.
5. Dry fit your pieces, and drill your pocket holes for assembling the desk frame.
6. Now it’s time to do everyone’s favorite thing – sanding the surface and edges.
7. Once everything is sanded, you can do the final assembly.
8. When you have glued and screwed everything together, It’s time to put the finish on.
9. All that is left to do now is enjoy your new one sheet plywood desk.
I recommend using a track saw to cut the pieces, but you can achieve the same result with a circular saw, a straight edge, and a couple of clamps. You will also want a miter saw to cut the small angles on the legs.
That’s All Folks
I hope I’ve convinced you that plywood is worth your time – whether you’re a seasoned journeyman carpenter, or a beginner who wants to build something that lasts for years and looks beautiful in your home. Please join us over at Sheet Good to get some inspiration for your plywood furniture creations. You can also find many more posts that delve into all the different aspects of this fascinating material.
See Joel’s first post about building with plywood.
A professional cabinet maker and furniture designer – Joel was raised on a cattle farm in Mississippi and has spent the majority of his professional life in Atlanta, Georgia. After obtaining a degree in Industrial Design from the Savannah College of Art and Design, he pursued further qualifications in cabinet making. For over ten years, Joel has specialized in working with plywood, and now operates as a freelance designer for various furniture manufacturers. Find more of Joel’s writing about plywood design and project ideas at Sheet Good.
getting impatient.......
My day didn't start off on a good foot. I failed at doing my sudoku puzzles and it was one of the easiest ones too. Turned out it wasn't me brain farting but the two same numbers in one row. Erased both of them and I finished the puzzle successfully. However, I didn't get any time in the shop because I had a ultrasound appointment.
I knew things would be a bit off because valet parking was full at the VA and they weren't taking any new cars. Luckily I found a parking space and went for my appointment. Things were jammed up a bit there too and my appointment was 30 minutes late. It only took 2 minutes and the tech said my doc would have results tomorrow. The results of this ultrasound will guide what they do with the cystoscopy in Feb.
overnight set up |
Usually within about 30 minutes this can be sanded but I let it go overnight.
see the cracks |
I would have bet a lung that 3 coats of paint would have filled these. I could barely feel them when I dragged my nails over them.
sneak peek |
I like the color contrast between the frame and the molding but not the size. After eyeballing this I think the molding is a few frog hairs too wide. I'm going to hold off on sawing it thinner until the painting is done.
two board lid |
I'm not a fan of glue ups for smaller lids (less than 12"). I don't have any stock wide enough so I'll be gluing one.
hmm...... |
I find this weird. When the shop temp was 61° (for two days) the outside temp was 3 degrees lower than it is today. However, the temp in the shop dropped 2 degrees and outside temp rose 3 degrees. The temps are going to be below freezing at night for the next ten days or so. Daytime temps ain't looking much better as they are mostly going to be around or below freezing (0C) for the same period.
before I forgot |
I got a comment asking if when I rolled a burr did I get one on both sides of the edge? I didn't know because I only checked for it on one face. I also noticed that when I used the accu-burr I didn't keep it at 90° to the card scraper but I slightly tilted it outboard 1-2 degrees. Maybe that has something to do with not getting a burr on both sides? It looks the accu-burr could do that. Maybe it takes a slight tilting action on both faces?
essentially nothing |
Rolled what I consider a good burr on the right side and almost nothing on the left side. It isn't 100% flat/flush and I can detect a teeny weeny bump on the edge.
a first for me |
Planed the glue joint with the boards together. Glued and clamped with quick grips which I don't think I have ever done before. No one is holding a gun to my head so I'm going to see how well this turns out.
planer chatter |
I first saw while applying the first coat of paint. I sanded that coat lightly with 320 and there is no mistaking it is still there. On a brighter note, the second coat seemed to cover it up some. I am not getting away with only two coats so maybe 3 will hide it.
needs one more |
The light area of streaks is where I put wood putty. The can instructions say that this paint will have problems with covering a light paint or here, light colored wood putty. I'll be doing another coat in 2 hours or so.
the tile frame rail |
This is the one where I drilled straight through out to the other side and then filled it in with some cherry shavings.
imposter gum pockets |
I think these came out pretty good. Even eyeballing them up close they still look like gum pockets IMO.
real gum pocket |
This one isn't black but brownish with some reddish tones to it. It follows a grain line like mine do too.
a few more |
You have to really look intently at a real one and compare it to mine for a while to say nay or yea.
flushed the bottom |
I sawed this one real tight - I had zero wiggle room on the width. I had an 1/8" overhang on both ends. Made flushing it quick and easy but not for dealing with the heebie jeebies with it shifting on me during the glue setting up.
nail holes mostly |
tung oil |
I am going to use this to finish this box. I tried it once a few months back but I have no memory of the results. The only difference between the two bottles is the left one has a citrus additive.
found them |
I bought these way back when I made a rabbeted box ala Peter Follansbee. I split the front board driving the nails home. I haven't given up on these, I just couldn't find them. I am leaving them on the workbench to have them in front of me if and when the opportunity to use them comes up.
bandsaw marks |
I couldn't remove all of the bandsaw marks here. I will make this the underside of the lid and place it at the back left.
curved lid |
Since this box is about experimenting with different things, why not a curve for the front edge?
done |
At first I intended to do it with a chisel and then the bandsaw and clean it up with a blockplane. Instead it made better sense to do the whole operation with the blockplane. It wasn't that much to plane away and I doubt it took more five minutes to complete.
3 side overhang |
I was going to flush the ends and overhang the front only. Changed my mind and did an overhang on the ends of about 3/16" and 3/8" at the front.
close enough |
The center lines on box and lid at the back on dead on along with the box being flush with the back edge of the box. At the front the box is a frog hair off the lid but it is ok IMO for this.
chamfer coming |
Laid out and ready to go which will happen in the AM tomorrow.
it worked |
I used this to lay out the line on the front. I kept/tried to keep the pencil at the same spot on the edge as I pulled it across the front. It looks symmetrical and even to my eye.
for curved work |
This wouldn't have worked because one of the rounded things would be off the edge at the ends. I wouldn't have been able to mark the last 1/2" or so at either end. I'm glad I checked it first because I was going to drill this one so I could put a pencil in it replacing the pin.
came today |
This is the fourth printing of this book (1932) with the first in 1930. This surprised because that is one and three years after the start of the great depression. I have already leafed through the book and it will be an interesting read. It has a chapter on how to make your own radio using '...off the shelf parts....'.
It is published by Popular Science which was a favorite magazine of mine when I was a kid. I especially like the plans in for just about everything under the sun.
how cool is this |
This chapter starts off on how to make your own home made one tube receiver. Of course there is woodworking too and that is main reason why I bought it.
accidental woodworker
Wisdom Comes in Many Shades
Wisdom Comes in Many Shades
took the wrong fork......
This AM before going to the shop I made a garbage run. From there I starting picking the ivy I had pulled up a couple of months back. I hadn't planned on that and initially I was going to do one pile and call it quits. I picked all of them which made my wife extremely happy. Unfortunately the city of Warwick isn't picking up yard waste now so it'll be spring time before I'm rid of it 100%.
stumps are next |
The dark spots are where the ivy had been piled. A lot of it was frozen but the irritating thing was the ivy wasn't dead. It was thriving and was still a vibrant green.
Come spring I'll be trying to get rid of the 3 stumps. I plan on drilling several holes in them, filling them with gas, and lighting them on fire. These two should be the easier ones to do. The big ash stump to the right of the shed is going to try my patience for sure - it is almost a three foot diameter stump.
5 full cans |
I didn't think I would fill this many shit cans. I don't have any left if the need for one should arise.
see them? |
All four legs of the frame have a series of surface cracks in them. I had see them before painting them and I thought 3 coats of paint would fill and level them. I was wrong. Instead of calling this done I had to fill in the cracks. I'm lucky in that the molding will cover half the width of each leg. Two more days before its done.
last thing |
Before I killed the lights today I glued the bottom on the dozuki box. I will be putting a lid on it. What it will used for is anyone's guess - I have one more coming too.
accidental woodworker
Shotgun chamber reaming for 2-3/4 inch shells
Making a Brass Fence
I’ve owned this Ohio Tool Co Moving Fillister Plane for a while now. It was missing its fence and screw when I bought it, so I decided it was time to make a new one for it.

I started by cutting a blank from some brass stock I bought on eBay. The blank I cut out was 3/8″ x 2″ x 3″.

Luckily, I have another fence off another moving fillister plane I could use as a template. While the dimensions weren’t the same, I custom drew what the fence should look like on the brass stock.

After I cut out the shape on the band saw, I punched a spot where my 3/8″ drill bit will drill a hole for the center on the fence. Then I kept moving down the fence drilling holes in the center.


I needed to remove some of the back of the fence, so I went back to the band saw to do the job.


Then, I cut off some of the face of the fence to thin it up and shaped the bottom of it with my files.

In the end, I was happy with my results. Not too shabby, as this was the first thing I have ever fabricated out of brass.


Now I needed to make the screw to hold it in place. Again, I had a screw from another plane that I could use to find something similar at the hardware store. I ended up buying a 5/16″ x 1″ screw from Home Depot, but I had to grind it round on my belt sander.


I then filed the top to a dome shape and used a hacksaw to file a slot in the top.


I polished the screw up, cleaned the body of the plane, and put everything together. The plane came out really nice and performs well after I sharpened the blade.


Another plane has been saved from the garbage bin of life and is back to use for the next hundred years.
Who put all those spoons in there.
I just went out to the home workshop to get a box to put some things in, but some silly sod (me) has put a load of spoons and ladles in there. Grab other box; the same.
Oh well. I picked this chest of drawers up for the daughter's bedroom recently. I replaced the plinth, because someone had used a few bits of old pallet in a previous restoration. A polish with some Fiddes and good to go. Minimum intervention is the best option sometimes. The top drawer is a writing desk for her studies. Definitely Early Oak, but she likes it.
I was going to make another bowl out of the other half of that Elm log, but nature beat me to it. This is Velvet Shank mushroom. It makes good eating. The Japanese call it Enokitake. As well as being tasty, it also is notable as a winter growing mushroom. Never eat a mushroom unless you are 100% sure about what it is. There are two other mushrooms similar to this which are poisonous. To differentiate you can take a spore print; Enokitake has white spores, the other two don't.
Here they are, growing on another piece of Elm in the hedgebank bottom, a bit more developed. I don't mind if this log goes back to wildlife, and the added bonus of a tasty meal.
On my way back from the workshop, I grabbed some firewood and this piece of beech, which was near the edge and got wet, has Turkey Tail mushroom growing on it. Back in the hedge, into a pile of logs and cultivate this one also. Turkey Tail is known as Kawaratake (roof tile fungus) in Japan and Yun Zhi in China, where it is used in traditional medicine. It is apparently good for balancing immune systems, so you never know, it might help me with my joints!
The first shoot of this year's sweet chestnut planting, showed itself. Giving back what we take.
finish day 3 et al........
Yesterday I checked on the hinges for the cherry cupboard and were coming on the 3rd. Then I got an email update from UPS telling me that it had been delayed and was coming on the 7th. Great, that gave me a few more days to come up with some way to hold the door shut. Got a surprise and the hinges came in right after lunch. That means it is crunch time for holding the door shut.
wasn't expected |
Is there anything in this universe that isn't made in China? For what these hinges set me back I would expect the finish not be a something that is sprayed on.
almost done |
I got the 3rd coat on the top and fingers crossed that it will be the last one. I won't know that until tomorrow.
slow going |
I have 3 coats of poly on the bottom and sides of this. Today I got the first coat on the top surfaces. At the rate I'm going it will be wednesday before its done. I am only putting on one coat a day and I have two more coats to apply.
while the finish dries |
I have already made a box with the dozuki and this is #2. Making one could be a fluke and 2 makes you take notice. After this one is done, I have one more to go. If I can do 3 I'll be convinced this dozuki is the the equal of my western dovetail saws.
oops |
I missed sawing a tail. What I am checking here is how well I sawed the pencil line. With western or japanese saws I try to saw right on the line. I did pretty good on the front side facing me as I sawed.
opposite side |
I did better sawing with the dozuki then I do with my western saws. With them I usually saw off some of the pencil lines leaving them. It looks like I sawed right on the back pencil lines with the dozuki.
half pins |
I sawed all the half pins without making a knife wall to guide the saw. I watch tons of dovetail YouTube vids and I see half saw it without a knife wall and the other half doesn't. Since this is a practice/experiment box I sawed them sans a guiding wall.
I had my fingers crossed that I would only need one coat but that ain't
happening boys and girls. However, I'm optimistic about getting out of
Dodge with two. |
came today |
These came in as expected. I like the color (my favorite one) and the storage thing is an bonus. I don't have room in my router bit drawer for these. They range in size from 1/4" up to 1/2".
Now that I have them I decided to leave the chamfer on the inside edge of the frame as is. I was also entertaining painting the chamfer black but nixed it.
first one off the saw |
I hope that I never get tired of this. I still get a bit tingling when the tails and pins mesh just right. This is something I did with no external help strictly on my own. Some parts of doing it are old hat but this step wipes the slate clean.
dry fit |
I am impressed with how tight the half pins came out. I didn't trim them other than to clean the internal corner at the bottom.
maybe a touch better |
When I sawed these I did them just like I would if I were using my western saw. In the back of the brain bucket I thought that I might have introduced gaps but didn't. The kerfs between the two saws is different with the dozuki having the thinner one. I'll have to measure the dozuki to compare it to the LN dovetail saw's kerf.
the other end |
The right side has small gaps. I was able to close them up when I glued the box up. After doing these dovetails I kind of like using the dozuki and I especially like the thin kerf. I found the dozuki much easier to saw plumb and to saw on the line. I will be going back to my western saws but the dozuki will have a seat at my saw table.
not 100% |
It had been a little less the 5 hours since I applied the finish and it was dry-ish. It was a teeny wee bit tacky and that killed any ideas I had for getting another coat on it today.
got it right |
Before I killed the lights I checked that the screws with the new hinge were flat heads - smiley face on.
why not |
I was going to kill the lights but made a U turn and decided to paint the 'L' moldings. Found some scraps to place the moldings on so I could paint them. I am only painting the outside faces.
first blurry looking coat coat |
I had my fingers crossed that I would only need one coat but that ain't happening boys and girls. However, I'm optimistic about getting out of Dodge with two.
tile frame stile |
I had swabbed some mineral spirits on this stile and the two holes I plugged popped. The idea today is to conceal/cover that boo boo with the black paint.
maybe???? |
I had a blob of paint drop off the brush and hit the left one. I tried to wipe it up with mineral spirits but that didn't go too well. I'll try to scrape it after the paint has dried and see how that goes. I painted the black on grain lines and I think it is good enough to fool anyone into thinking it is a cherry gum pocket.
accidental woodworker
Cherry Shaker End Table 2: Drawer & Everything Else
I rough cut the rails and drawer front together in the hopes of having the grain match. I spent a lot of effort on that and don’t think it was worth it. Each piece lost material with planing, and then more when fitting the drawer.

For the drawer sides I wanted a light colored wood so the dovetails would contrast with the cherry. Choices were poplar, soft maple, and basswood. I went with basswood as I thought the softness might help jamming the dovetails into their sockets. I ripped a long piece to match the width/height of the front and then plowed grooves.


There’s a lot of info and gurus about cutting dovetails. I don’t have a set routine. But I know when I cut the tails with a japanese saw, I can’t cut the waste out with a coping saw. The coping saw blade is too thick to fit in the kerf. I have to use a fretsaw.

The sockets I chisel out with a mortise chisel for the open areas and smaller skew chisels for the corners.

I ease the underside of the tails to help get them started quicker. I think I learned that from Rob Cosman’s videos. All of these edges will be covered. If they were through dovetails you’d have to leave the exposed ends alone.

I made a mistake I didn’t notice until gluing up the drawer box. I had cut the drawer back to fit between the sides by using the front to gauge the distance. But I dadoed the sides which means the back should have been that much wider.


Discovering an error at glue-up didn’t leave much time for problem solving. I could have cut a new piece, but once I realized the cause I moved it forward a little to where the dado wasn’t.

I planned to pin the back with skewers but did not. I did glue some scrap into those dados which I hope will act like corner blocking.
At this stage I had to solve the problem of fitting drawer guides into the already glued carcase. The plans call for gluing them to the sides. I wanted to do extra as this table would be a Christmas gift. I didn’t trust glue alone to be secure long term and I wouldn’t be around to repair it. Another reason is that the unseen inner sides were not planed as well as the outside, so it might not be a flat glue surface.
I lost several days trying to think of screw-free ways to install the supports. Things got easier when I resigned myself to just using screws. I used poplar and ash for the guides as I had scrap close to the proper dimensions.

The runners and kickers are notched to fit. Each has a screw into the front rail and the back leg. They are also glued along the side apron. The picture also shows the screw holes for mounting the tabletop, circles for the front and back and elongated on the sides.

I returned to the table top whiich I had glued up oversized. I put the tabletop upside down with the frame on top and decided where to crosscut it. I also traced the corners of the legs to know where to stop chamfering.

To chamfer I eyeballed half of the thickness, ran a marking gauge around the edge, and filled it in with a mechanical pencil. The bulk of the waste was removed with a #5 plane and a #7 was used when closer to the line. I like watching the line in the corner develop. Oddly satisfying.



I scraped and hand sanded to 220 grit. I drilled pilot holes but did not attach the tabletop until after finishing.
For finishing I sprayed shellac. I did one coat of garnet shellac (all I had left) and then 3-5 coats of sealcoat. The drawer knob I supported by poking the screw in cardboard with the threads wrapped in tape.


After finishing I put the drawer bottom in, screwed in the knob, and screwed the top to the table. I waxed the business end of the drawer and runners.


I made this as a Christmas present and delivered it 650 miles away on January 2nd.
It is about 24″ high with a 16″ square top. The legs are 1 1/8″ square at the top and 5/8″ at the bottom. The aprons are 4 1/2″ wide and 11 1/4″ long.



A Tool Tote for Plane Wellness
card scrapers.......
Day two of applying poly and paint and it will probably take a few more days. The workshop temp has dipped below 60F (15.5C) which I think is at the low for paint and poly to fully set up and cure. So I never made it back to shop last night. Instead I let the poly and paint relax and set up overnight. They looked good in the AM - both felt dry.
cut it down |
After thinking about and seeing the overhang of the 'L' molding on the outboard side I decided to cut it flush. Used a scrap 'L' molding to set the right distance. They will overhang by a frog hair now.
double, triple checking |
I had the chamfer to go by but I set the moldings as they will be and put an X on the up side. I have a history of not paying attention to labels but today I was a good boy and all came out correctly.
two computer headaches |
I'm missing the taskbar on the Linux computer and the laptop it just doing stupid Microsuck hiccups (after an update). This was not what I wanted to be doing today. After trying a few quick tricks and getting no results I shifted into battle mode.
got it back |
I tired for about an hour to get the taskbar back or Firefox to open. Flunked at doing both using Terminal. I said No Mas and reinstalled Mint and got the taskbar back and I was able to open and browse with Firefox. However, all the previous settings and programs I had installed went bye-bye. I will next have to set up Firefox and blow in all my passwords for it for YouTube, etc etc etc.
Just as well because this Linux computer has been acting bugging for the past couple of weeks. The biggest PITA was my WiFi headphones would drop out without warning. I would then have to spend seemingly hours trying to get it to pair with the computer again. I'll keep an eye on it from here and see what shakes out now.
part of my card scraper herd |
I have been using or I should say I've been trying to use card scrapers for about 40 years. In the dim past I saw someone using one in the Navy woodworking shop and he told me it was a card scraper. I had absolutely no idea on how to use it or more importantly how to sharpen it and roll a burr. I had zero knowledge about it other then it was something I had to have.
my two latest acquisitions |
These are from Blue Spruce and I haven't used them other than to try them for a few strokes. I haven't formed an opinion on them one way or the other yet other than the are heavy and thick.
ready to go (maybe) |
Made this box to hold my favorite scrapers - from straight, to curved, to profiled. Along with the scrapers is a burr rolling gadget from Lee Valley.
40 years old |
This was the second one I bought. I thought it was the bee's knee but it wasn't. I still had no concrete understanding of a burr and how to roll one. I thought this would be magical but the genie never came out of the lamp.
some of my other burr makers |
The 2nd one from the right is the first one I bought. I got it and a card scraper from LV all those many moons ago. The far left one I got as a xmas present this year.
Phil Lowe burnisher |
This is Phil's Lowe Lazarus act of a Stanley burnisher. It comes to a 35° conical point and you use that to make the burr a consistent hook from one end to the other. I have found that is wholly dependent upon rolling a consistent burr first. And I can't roll a consistent burr. I have a bazillion doo dads for rolling a burr but with none of them can I roll a consistently formed and equal burr from one end to the other. At best I would get a couple of inches and then go bald or misshaped for most of it.
I have read and watched everything I could on forming a burr in my part of the universe. I get it and I think I understand it. I think I could talk to anyone on how to do it except for the last step of using the burnisher (pick one) and making a burr.
accu-burr Jr |
This has been a game changing gadget for me. This little piece of heavenly goodness has finally allowed me to roll a burr on anything I want one on. There is not a lot of practice needed to use it neither IMO. It will roll 3 burrs, light, medium, and heavy. You don't need to tilt it, or at least I don't, make a couple of passes on the edge and Bob's your uncle. Success after 40 years of frustration. All the other burnishers sit in their holders and collect dust now.
still have it |
This is the first scraper I bought oh so many, many moons ago. Still functions, and with much better results, due to the acu-burr. It is also still pretty much full width after 40 years too.
mastered this |
Honing a straight and square edge I don't have any problems doing. A square piece of scrap wood is indispensable in doing that. At first I thought the stone would get choked up with wood but that hasn't happened. It doesn't take more than a couple seconds to square the edge. I have found that sometimes this will make a burr but it doesn't last too long.
couple of jigs |
I have 3 #80 Stanleys along with 2 Stanley #112s. The irons in them have a 45° on their edges. These two jigs help with that because I couldn't file the irons being held vertically in the vise. This jig is something I got from a Charles Hayward book - I think it was called Making Woodworking Tools. I modified my jigs slightly so that are clamped horizontally in the vise. I find having the iron horizontal helps me a lot to file a consistent 45 on the edge.
it works for me |
With the jig held vertically I found trying to hold and file at a 45 to be a bit awkward. I would file the lead in off 45, kind of 45 in the middle, and maybe close to 45 on the exit. I'm sure if this was something I did with more frequency I would master it. But it isn't something that I do once a week or even once a month. I may do it once a year or when the #80 I'm using ain't making any shavings for me.
this is wonderful |
I pulled this spare #80 iron from the spares holder and it didn't have a burr. Three strokes with the accu-burr and I had a consistent one end to end. So far I have settled into using the medium (or middle) burr roller for everything. For me it takes the guess work out of it and I know what to expect from using it.
almost missed this pic |
Filing is a skill just as sharpening a plane iron is one. Before you hone the edge you need to file edge to 90 °, straight, and flat. I tend to have a hump after my efforts along with the ends tapering downward. I have to expend extra calories honing by starting out on the coarsest stone. Again another skill set that should improve with more practice and use.
new on top, old on the bottom |
These gadgets are for holding the file at 90° to a saw or scraper face and both work. The black one comes from Lee Valley and the bottom from an old tool seller I don't remember who though. However, I don't use either or scrapers because the files today are crap. After a couple of strokes there is a groove worn in the files and it no longer cuts. I use the LV one now strictly for evening out the tooth line on my saws. The bottom smaller one works but I couldn't find files that fit it.
toothing blade |
This is for the Stanley #112 scraping plane. I got this one from Kunz, the German maker with the green painted planes/tools. I couldn't find a Stanley one anywhere and so far I've used this one only once. You don't need a burr on this, just have to file/hone the toe at 45.
two edges |
I only roll a burr on one edge. In the past I did both edges thinking it would be wonderful to just flip it when one edge dulled. What happened with me with both edges rolled were my fingers would get butchered using it. I have so many of them that for me I can live with only one edge rolled.
saw blades |
I bought a bunch of saw blade waste from Issac Blackburn and I have found them to be handy to have. Due to their sizes they are easy to flatten and I do ok with rolling a burr on their short runways. The other ones in the box are some I filed to a specific profile for a specific project. I find it is quicker to establish a profile or flush two surfaces with it over sandpaper.
profile scrapers |
These have to be done by hand. I tried the acu-burr on them and got mixed results. Instead I went back to this small burnisher (Lee Valley?). Of these profile scrapers the goose neck ones get the most use from me. The key, IMO, to using this small burnisher is to securely hold the scrapers and concede that you will only be able to roll for a very short distance. It takes a while (for me) to roll a burr all the way around on a goose neck.
hmm...... |
I tried this small burnisher rolling a burr on a goose neck scraper. I kind of liked the new one for doing this. It is small and agile along with two hand control. The other burnisher is a one handed tool. I thought I had better control with the LV burnisher. No problems negotiating all the inside and outside curves of the goose neck. Of course neither one will get into the tight turns and reversals.
both worked |
I find pine to be a good wood to check my burrs on. Pine (for me) has never been an easy wood to scrape and make fluffy shavings. Hardwoods (lots of experience with hardwoods) work well with scrapers. I can generate enough shavings in 5 minutes to stuff a pillow case. Here both of the goose necks I rolled a burr on made shavings and grooved the pine.
profile on cherry |
I rolled a burr on all four semi circles but none of them were consistent. There was a burr, heavy in the middle and lighter out towards the end. I still made shavings but they torn out a wee bit coming from either direction. I minimized that by changing the angle I scraped it at.
So what is the conclusion? Gadgets make some things easier but they are not the panacea for all burrs. Practice and lots of it is needed to master this skill. The accu-burr is a great aid but even though I'm making acceptable burrs I still haven't made a pile of shavings like I have seen Paul Sellers do. The shavings I'm getting now are acceptable (for me) but I know I could be doing better. I have something to shoot for. I have gotten a handle on a lot woodworking things now and hopefully before I take that dirt nap I'll add this one to the list (and spokeshaves).
accidental woodworker
Happy Birthday, Paul!

Pages
