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no title today........

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 09/28/2024 - 3:36am

 Today was one of the days that I wish I had a magic wand to wave and make it go away. I made two mistakes that let the wind out of my sails. I found one and the other one, which was the same, a little later. I thought I was being careful and I double triple checked a bazillion times. I missed one important fact and I was happy thinking all was well in Disneyland but I was heading out into La La Land without being aware of it. I quit the shop early and decided to call it a day.

 not a good omen

This was the daily sudoku puzzle for today, the silver one. It had an extra 5 in two rows and one cell. This is the first time I've seen a screw up this bad. I tried to do the puzzle 6 times, each time picking one of the '5s' and at the end of each I had two fives either in a row or a cell. So along with the 5 being OTL, I'm thinking one or more of the other numbers was OTL too.

another Koszela lumber run

This was not what I went there for this AM. I don't often see sugar pine that is dead nuts clear like this. Besides I had $100 on me and this got me up to $90 for what I took home.

 this is what I wanted

Yesterday when I gone there for the cherry I saw 5 1/2" thick pine boards. I should have bought them yesterday but I didn't. Today there were only these two boards left. Both were over 7 feet long and I had them cut in half.

The wider one had a cup in it that was healthy. I sawed the two wide boards in half and 99% of the cup disappeared. I got these two to use as drawer sides/backs.

 checking it first

Time to chop the gains in cabinet. Paul Sellers is making a clothes cupboard and he was hinging the doors in the last episode. He only marked for one hinge on the cupboard, screwed it in place, and then marked for the other two hinges. If I had done that with my hinging it would have been so much easier. I got lucky that both of the knifed marked hinges lined up.

 how well will the door close

I clipped the steel screws and I didn't get either one of them to break through the front.

 doesn't close

The top has a tapered gap and the bottom is parallel looking to the eye. Paul Sellers left a 1/8" gap on the top of his door and I'll do the same with mine.

 wasn't expecting this

I thought the door would close albeit a bit on the snug side. The door extends past the edge by a strong 16th. Took a time out to ponder whether to plane the latch side of the door or deepen the hinges on the door a wee bit.

 found the first brain fart

The bottom of the door with this hinge arrangement is at the top. I hinged the wrong side of the door. I thought I had crossed all the i(s) and dotted the t(s) but it would appear to even a blind man I missed something.

two dutchmen

I fitted dutchmen for the gains and I glued and clamped them. Set them aside and started to work on the bottom door cupboard hinge gains.

that awful sicking feeling when you.........

I did the exact same screw up on the bottom door. At least I was consistent and repeated the same mistake. Made two more dutchmen and set this door aside to set up with its sibling.

two hours later

I planed the dutchmen flush and laid out the hinge on the correct side. I also put the door in its opening and labeled where the hinge gains should be. I then left the shop and came better after getting a cup of joe and repeated what I had just done.

stopped here

I just wasn't into chopping the hinges at this time. I was still a little miffed at myself for doing this. I thought it best to leave the shop for today and come back to this fresh in the AM.

 I do like to read

These are some of the books that I just received. I found 6 more titles from Eric Sloane and I got one of them in today. I put aside the Stephen Fry books on the Greek gods and I'll read the get fat book first. It is hard to screw up reading and that is what I did for the rest of the day.

giving them a try

I saw infomercial on You Tube about these and I bought some from Amazon. I had 4 pictures to hang and the heaviest one was 16lbs. I used the 45 lb rated one for it.

wife didn't like it

She wanted this picture hung here and that is what I did. I failed to get instructions as to how high/low I was to hang it. She said it is too high and should be at eye level. If I move it I will ask if the eye level is hers or mine?

 used the 15 lb hooks

My wife doesn't like either of these paintings. She is afraid of the turtles for whatever reason. I love both of them. Her aunt (her mother's twin sister) had a lot of talent.

 wow

This is frame is huge. I had to rearrange and move a lot of crap to get it to fit here. This is the only spot in the house with sufficient wall space to hang this. Maria told me that Willa's memorial pic frame will be done this coming tuesday. I have a spot for the that along with a pic of the grandsons.

I like these pic hangers. I couldn't install them the way the instructions said - I had to use a hammer. I think that was because of the sheet rock I have in my house. This is the original 1929 sheet rock and it is hard and there was no way I was pushing any of the hangers into it with thumb pressure. After hammering them home they felt solid and I didn't get any sense that the hanger was stressed. Time will tell the future story.

accidental woodworker

Wilbur Pan for East Brunswick Board of Education

Giant Cypress - Fri, 09/27/2024 - 5:28am

Wilbur Pan for East Brunswick Board of Education

I know it’s been a while. Back in the summer, I decided to run for our local Board of Education. That’s taken quite a bit of time, as you might imagine. If you’re interested, more information is at the link above.

But don’t worry. I haven’t forgotten about woodworking. My new series on Japanese plane setup isn’t dead. And I’m looking forward to my talks at Kezurou-kai USA and Woodworking in America in a couple of weeks. See you there!

2nd Mackintosh cupboard pt XXVIII........

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 09/27/2024 - 3:29am

Wasted part of the AM looking for the lumberyard. The directions were good (on the cell phone) until I got to a round about. You would think I would have figured it out after the first time but not me. It took me four tries and going down a dead end street twice. I was about to give up on finding it when on the fourth time for the round about I Koszela Lumber. In my defense the sign for the lumber yard was a tiny one.

I went home with $304 of rough sawn 4/4 cherry. They also had some 1/2" pine that I like to use for drawers. Debbie (the yard manager) said that they don't always have it - the batch they had was all there was. She said having it in stock is random. Nice people and a good selection of wood. It reminded me of a lumber hardware store throwback to the 1950's. I'll be going there again for sure.

stopped at 3

The more I thought about this the more I know my wife will not like this being natural. I'm not too sure she will like the shelves behind the doors being natural. I think it is best if I paint this one. That will eliminate any headaches with what shelf goes where.

rails glued in

The super glue (used accelerator too) appeared to grab and hold. A half hour after I glued the rails, I couldn't budge either rail. I'll have to do some clean up because I dripped super glue on the tile and got some of it on the door.

my haul of cherry

The two boards on the left are not quite 6" wide and 6 feet long. There are four of them. The wide middle boards are just under 10" wide - four of them too - all are 5 footers. The last board on the right is a little less than 6" wide and 6 feet long. The cost per BF was close to $10 but I saved over going to Highlands in New Hampshire. Gas alone would have been about $60 and round trip it would be over 3 hours. The BF price was a couple of dollars cheaper at Highlands but I'm happy with what I got here.

This stock is for the next project and it will a change for me. 99% of what I've done has been in pine. I really didn't want this project to be pine and painted. That is why I opted for cherry which is my favorite wood. I ordered the tiles and the hinges for this next project yesterday. I will let the cherry acclimate to the shop for a couple of weeks. Koszela stores their wood under cover but exposed to the elements.

 frame part

I was getting ready to chop the gains for the hinges when I noticed this. If these pieces broke off the paint would show them off. I glued them back on with super glue and accelerator. A trick I learned from watching Jerry Rosa is to wait a few seconds after applying super glue before hitting it with accelerator. Have you noticed if you hit it with accelerator right away it will turn a whitish color? Wait a few secs and the glue stays clear.

top door framed tile

Definitely looks better with rails even though they are kind of hidden. Worth doing it this for both doors. I may have to paint the entire door but I won't know that for sure until after I paint the smudges on the door and tile frame.

 first door hinged

I only put one screw in each leaf for now. I will wait to screw in the others until after I have it hung and fitted.

ditto

Took extra time doing these hinges. It is too easy for me to get confused. I checked myself after doing one hinge to make sure that one it was hinged on the right part of the door. And two that the barrel of the hinge faced out and not in. I did good and got all four hinge leaves flush and the barrels pointing in the right direction.

double triple checking myself

I caught two me-steaks on this door. The hinge on the left was off over a 1/2". I don't know how I screwed that up so bad. But I'm glad that I laid the hinges out and checked it before chopping it.

 I would have cried

I laid out the first hinge wrong(2nd  me-steak). I only caught myself after I had knifed it. I will fill in the knife lines with putty after I chop and fit the door.

bottom door

Marking the hinges was a bit awkward for me. I did it in pencil first and then made a knife nick. I followed that up by laying the hinges on the inside to verify my knife nicks were correct. 

I didn't chop the gains on the inside as it was almost 1500. I didn't want to start this and stop to pick it up tomorrow. I want to do the chopping and fitting all in one sitting. I did go back to the shop after dinner and verified the knife lines on the inside again.

accidental woodworker

Tallow Paste Wax Redux

The Barn on White Run - Thu, 09/26/2024 - 5:56am

By request, here’s a blow-by-blow of my tallow/beeswax paste wax.

When making small formulation test batches I rely on my yard sale fondue heating plate.  It’s a pretty steady 150-degrees F so I do not need to watch it with an eagle eye, as it will keep chugging along until my wax and any other ingredients are melted. A Pyrex sauce pan fits it perfectly so I just toss in the ingredients and check back in an hour.

For almost all of my formulation endeavors I combine the components by weight.  Since I am not doing anything other than melting, in this case I do not really need to use one of my analytical scales.  A digital kitchen scale is more than adequate.

The beeswax is of course the product that we make by hand, triple filtered Tupelo Honey beeswax.  I would gladly use local beeswax but there just aren’t enough local beekeepers.

For the tallow I just used some purified beef tallow I bought on-line.  I have not tried using any other tallow but will entertain the idea.  This works fine for me, is nearly odorless (if I close my eyes and inhale a big snort of air I can almost imagine the faintest smell of pot roast), and has remained stable for the four years I’ve had this container open.  I could certainly add a dash of turpentine as a fragrance but don’t need that for my own use.  Originally, I bought this tallow to lubricate wood threads on my bench and Moxon vises.

For my paste wax test batch I wound up with 75 grams of beeswax to 150 grams of tallow as the sweet spot.  When sneaking up on this (melting and cooling, melting and cooling) I added a bit of one or the other (ALWAYS keeping notes along the way) until I got the outcome I wanted.

Once everything is melted and uniform I just let it cool,  The result is a very firm paste wax that can be used like any other.   I’ve ordered some more tallow to make a bigger batch so I can send out samples to those of you who requested some.

Of course my curiosity bone wonders what the result would be if I used Blend 31 instead of pure beeswax…

Stay tuned.

Categories: Hand Tools

2nd Mackintosh cupboard pt XXVII.........

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 09/26/2024 - 3:41am

I have turned the corner on the 2nd cupboard. When I checked this AM on the hinges and tiles they were coming on thursday. Surprise, both came in today along with a few other things I ordered. It shouldn't be too much longer to say this is done. That got me thinking as to where my wife is going to put this?

I still can't get over how ga-ga she went over the frame for the tiles. That got me thinking about the next project and I decided on it. It will involve the two tiles I ordered from Etsy today. I've been searching RI for hardwood dealers and so far nada. I used to go to one in West Warwick (20 years ago) but he is gone. If I can't find a local dealer I'll have to go to Highlands in New Hampshire.

2nd cupboard base

I was thinking of painting this while awaiting parts. After eyeballing it I decided it was easier to remove it, paint it, and then reinstall it.

 thinking out loud

The gap at the top and bottom isn't the same. The top is wider than the bottom. I screwed on the stiles and eyeballed it and then sat on the fence with it. Couldn't decide whether or not to fill them in. I'm not thrilled with the gaps and the top one I can see from a bazillion feet away.

 doesn't too bad

Cut up some scrap to fill in the gaps. It doesn't look out of place - the frame rails blend into the rails of the door IMO.

sans the  gap fillers

If the top and bottom gaps were the same I would leave this as is. I can't get past that I can see the top gap from so far away.

 made new rails

Did a better job fitting these set of rails. I am going to try and use super glue to secure them. I left the back and bottom unpainted so at least one surface should provide a good gluing surface.

3rd shelf

This is for the middle compartment of the cupboard. I don't think my wife will ask for a 2nd one but she still surprises me after 25 years.

just a teeny bit of twist

I have found that shelves that sit on shelf pins will rock. Whether it is due to a twist, cup, or bow in the shelf or if I screwed up drilling the holes for the pins. I can eliminate this one now and the pins will have to wait.

 dead flat

I got full width shavings going across the board on both faces. There was zero light under the straight edge on 99% of the places I checked for it.

notches for the pins

Used one of my small routers to get a consistent depth for the pin notches.

 the last of it

Tile on the right and 2 sets of hinges on the left. No more excuses for getting a check mark in the done column.

 will my gamble pay off?

It looks like it will fit but then I thought the same with the first top door tile frame.

 Houston we have gaps

Not quite a 1/4" R/L.

 top to bottom gap

The top to bottom is a strong 16th and it isn't consistent or parallel from one end to the other.

 checked for square

3 corners on the tile aren't square. There isn't a lot of daylight to be seen and it is mostly right at the corners. The frame in the door is dead nuts at all four corners and from each direction. I am going to glue the frame up and go with it as is. I don't mind a small gap on the sides and splitting the bottom isn't going to be problem. It will be minuscule and you won't notice/see it.

 happy with the match

There is a negligible difference (color wise) between the bin pull, snap catches, and the Horton Brasses antique hinges.

marking the shelves

The bottom shelf will not fit in the middle or top. However, the same can't be said for the top and middle shelves. They are basically the same size but the shelf pin notches aren't. Stamped each respective shelf with its letter - T, M, and B.

started the hinges on the top door

Horton supplies two screws with the hinges. Steel ones for the initial screwing down on the hinges and ones to match the hinges. They also give the option for slotted or phillips head screws.

The screws for the hinges are too long - they are just shy of 3/4". They will fit in the edge of the cabinet but they won't fit in the door. They might but I would rather not try that out. I'll have to snip/file a wee bit off each one. As an aside if the door stock was 7/8" thick the screw wouldn't be a problem.

it was drying quick

I got 3 coats on the middle shelf before it was time to kill the lights. It was dry before I finished getting the first coat on it.  5 should do it. But thinking about it out loud my wife probably won't like it being natural. I like the look of natural against paint but maybe not for this. The other two shelves are behind doors. Hmm..... maybe I should paint this instead of putting on couple more coats of shellac.

 before quitting time

The can said I could recoat in an hour. I waited about 90 minutes between each one. I'll let this set up overnight and glue them in tomorrow.

 need more deep reach clamps

I got a clamp on each corner half laps but one stile didn't get clamp. It had some squeeze out so maybe I got lucky. I was just at Harbor Freight too and I looked at the clamps but I didn't buy any. I shoulda, woulda, coulda, but I'll have to go back.

 

 almost done

The frame around the tile completes this. The bare tile kinda looked ok sans a frame but with one it nails it. My original thought was to use smaller tiles and fill in the entire panel. I didn't do that on this cupboard because I had already made the doors and then ordered the tiles.

accidental woodworker

Making a Schwarz "Short Back" Chair, Part 7

Woodworking in a Tiny Shop - Wed, 09/25/2024 - 11:28am

Before shaping the seat, I made some plugs to fit into the leg holes so that I wouldn't blow out the hole rims when removing material for the saddling.

A redwood plug in a leg hole

Concentric semi-circles drawn and depths marked

Depth holes drilled (most of them) and spindle deck inner aspect defined

I kind of winged it when it came to mark the depth to which I wanted to excavate the seat.  It's based on things I've read and the few seats I've done before.  But it dives fairly quickly from the spindle deck - those first holes nearest the deck are 3/8" deep  - but then levels out at max depth of 1/2".  One thing I should note: I defined the inner aspect of the spindle deck with a knife, being careful not to stray from the line.  Then I used a router plane to create a little flat about 1/16 to 1/8" deep on the saddling side of that line.  I started the excavation about 3/8" from that line.

I still don't have a scorp, so I did the waste removal with a homemade compass plane (bottom curved in two directions) and a makeshift travisher.  I took a LOT of time to get to where it felt like there were no bumps.  Then I scraped and sanded until smooth.

Tools of excavation

This knot was a bear - right next to the spindle deck and leg hole

Getting close to the drilled depth holes

I had penciled in the bottoms of the depth holes for better visibility

And now scraped and sanded.  Also, removed the perimeter waste at back
with saws and chisels and then smoothed that rear edge with a #4.

Another view showing detail

Marked the edges all around for a chamfer on the underside.
Waste was removed using scrub plane and spokeshaves.

When the seat was finally done, I glued up the undercarriage.  I used white glue for the convenience, so I hope I never need to repair this chair.

Rails and stretcher glued, legs glued into seat and wedges tapped home

I let that dry before getting the upper part of the chair glued up.  After the glue had set, I removed the protruding leg nubs.  And man, it was a bear getting the leg tops flush with the seat.  I tried many different things - flush saw, gouges, chisels, scrapers.  I don't even remember what worked best - I just remember it was flippin' hard.  But we persevere and we get it done.

Next was gluing the upper part, sans comb - I left the comb for last.  But the spindles and arm bow went pretty well.  I had done several dry runs.  In the end, I couldn't get one of the long sticks all the way down into its seat mortise.  It was about 3/8" shy.  No problem though, I just trimmed 3/8" off the top and I'll never notice.

Arm bow set at proper height and wedges applied to the short sticks

You can tell the third long stick from the left is a little taller than the rest

Due to the flat surface of the arm bow, the short stick nubs were easy to 
remove with a flush cut saw, then trim level with a chisel

That's all for this post.  Next time I'll get into the comb.  It was a really challenging piece to make and to bore holes into.  Until then ...




2nd Mackintosh cupboard pt XXVI.......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 09/25/2024 - 4:14am

 I didn't get much time in the shop today. I spent the afternoon with my wife helping her out at the storage unit. I did a few things in the AM and I went to the shop after dinner and basically looked around. I swept the deck and emptied the shitcan, killed the lights, and went topside for the rest of the night.

top door frame

I'm not entirely happy with this but I do like it. What I don't like is not having any rails. There isn't enough room between the tile and the door rails to fit in frame rails the same size as the stiles. The gap is too small which works in my favor. The shadow will be on the larger side though.

 bottom door

Made the tile frame different for cupboard #1. The panel depth on these two doors is 9/16" and on #2 is about 1/4". I looked at the frame with the rails off but it didn't look right.

 last of the planing

The rails and stiles were slightly proud of the door frame and I planed them flush on both doors.

using screws

The panel is painted so I can't glue the tile frame to it. I really don't want to scrap any paint for gluing and possibly make more work for myself to do. I am going to secure the stiles and rails with two screws in each one.

 screw markers

I marked the screws with small brads. I then screwed the frame parts to the door to check the fit.

 oval head screws

Used a #4 screw to secure the frame. I got lucky that I was able to avoid screwing through the back frame.

 bottom door

This door is a close match and I like the look. Framing in the tile was worth going back and doing. Etsy has a lot of these tiles to choose from and I might make more projects using tiles.

finally done

Maria has had this for quite a while (7-8 weeks?). She did an awesome job with the patches. They don't look like a jumbled mess - I had given her a pic of what patch went where. I like how the patches have a symmetry and alignment to them now. The frame weighs 16.6lbs. I thought it was much heavier. I needed the weight so I get the right weight rated picture hanger.

 first of ???

Used a foam brush to paint these and the first one doesn't look too bad. No way I'll get away with just one but I was optimistic about getting away with 2.

hmm.....

This is a problem with getting a 2nd quart of paint - you won't get an exact match with the first one. The color looks to be a match but I can see a difference between them. I don't think it will be a problem because the frame parts can be a slightly off in color. If I were painting more of the door it would show.

sawing to length

This is the back for cupboard #2. I ripped it to width on the tablesaw and used a hand saw to get the length.

 a little tight

The length was tight too and after a few strokes with a blockplane it fit. The width has two spots where I need to shave it a wee bit. Here at the bottom for about 18" and at the top.

 top spot

I had to plane about 3" at the top corner before it fit there.

couple of frog hairs

Took less than a minute to shave the back to get it to fit T/B and R/L.

 good fit

I should have made the rabbet a little wider. I plan on painting both the back and the rabbet so I can't use glue. With the rabbet a bit wider I could have used screws T/B. I have a cleat at the top and bottom that I can use screws to attach the T/B of the back to. I'll have to use nails T/B.

another change

Having to wait for hardware allows me to eyeball this every day I wait and come up with changes. Decided to add adjustable shelving for the middle compartment. It is tall which would be wasteful of the space. With at least one shelf it will increase what it can hold. I'll make one now and ask Diane if she wants a second one.

 two coats

It ain't looking good boys and girls. The coverage doesn't look solid after two coats has dried for about an hour. I came back after dinner and put on #3. I waited over 6 hours before doing that to give it more time to set up. The can says you can recoat in an hour.

still no chair

Making a chair is on the bucket A list. I have the patterns for a stick chair and I have a couple videos of Chris making said stick chair. Still haven't made one. I have made a couple of stools and that is the closest I've come so far. However, as long as Chris writes books about making chairs I'll keep buying them.

hmm.....

I was expecting something closer in size to Stick Chair Book #1. Good info in #2 and it does complement it. I just have to get off my arse and jump into it.

accidental woodworker

For sale: a carved box & a ladderback chair

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Tue, 09/24/2024 - 3:13pm
detail, carved box. PF, Sept 2024

If you read my substack blog, this is just a re-hash from there yesterday, about some woodwork for sale- one carved box and a ladderback chair at a slight discount. If you’d like to claim either of these, send an email to me PeterFollansbee7@gmail.com check or paypal – but I’ll tack paypal’s fee on. I’m making more chairs and boxes this fall, so if you’d like to order something, send a note. Thanks for looking…PF

Carved box, alternating lunettes

This is one I’ve made several times. The carving design is included in my Lost Art Press book Joiner’s Work – there, for lack of any better term, I called it “alternating lunettes.” It’s based on a box I saw over 20 years ago in a private collection. It was made by the Savell family of joiners in Braintree, Massachusetts, c. 1640-1680. Mine is oak with a pine top and bottom. I used wooden hinges instead of iron.

carved box, PF, Sept 2024

The ends are carved, as on the original. Not as common in the period as in my shop…I tend to almost always carve the ends.

end carving, PF box, Sept 2024

And a till inside.

open with till inside

H: 8” W: 22” D: 13 3/4”
$1,500 plus shipping in US.

Ladderback chair
Red oak, hickory bark seat.

PF ladderback, Sept 2024

One of my standard Jennie Alexander-style ladderbacks. With a slight flaw, so a bit of a discount. The chair is perfectly sound, sits as it should, etc – but one of the front posts cracked at assembly. I still will guarantee this chair – I doubt there’ll be any problem. But I can’t very well charge full price for it – the crack is at the top of the post:

cracked post

I didn’t want to scrap the whole chair because of a small split that is just cosmetic – so I figured I’d reduce the price by $200. Usually I sell these for $1,500 plus shipping in US – which is around $250 or so. This one then will be $1, 300 plus shipping in US.

If you are buying tools, opt for the best you can afford

Working By Hand - Tue, 09/24/2024 - 1:43pm

We live in a very disposable age. Every product has a lifespan, and in ones deemed disposable, this lifespan is often quite short. This is aptly illustrated in the world of appliances. There are people that still have fridges from the 1950s, and they still work – sure they can guzzle juice, but that’s not the point, after 70 years they are still keeping things cool. These days, many things are poorly built, mostly using inferior materials, or poor quality assurance processes, without any regard to a long life. This is true of woodworking tools just as much as it is of appliances.

The purchase of a tool should focus solely on its ability to do the job effectively. This is usually highly correlated with its build-quality. Some tools are inexpensive because cheaper materials are used, or they are manufactured in a place where costs are very low, and in all probability there just aren’t the same quality controls. Doing a task effectively has many facets. For example, a blade on a plane should produce uniform cuts, and its edge should remain sharp for a reasonable amount of time. A plane should not have to be tuned when taken out of the box (e.g. flattening the sole). Cheap measuring tools may seem better, but can you guarantee they hold their accuracy over time? Is there any semblance of a life-time warranty?

We also live in a time where there is a propensity to purchase cheaper things. People tend to shy away from tools from small companies that cost a little more precisely for one reason – they cost a little more. People say “it’s hard to justify the expense of X tools when I can buy multiple generic tools for the same price“. These may be the same people that lament the lack of manufacturing jobs in North America. But people often fail to take into account the potential time they will spend bringing these cheaper tools up to some workable standard. In addition, when purchasing a quality tool you are supporting small, local industries, and helping to reduce the pervasiveness of knock-off products in the market. In many cases people knock off products that are then produced off-shore, but which are sold for only a nominally lower price than the original. Well made, quality tools from established companies will also hold their value over time, mass-produced cheap tools won’t. They will often last a long time, often generations.

BrandNameMaterialMade where?TolerancePrice (Can)
Colen ClentonBlackwood recalibratable 8″ squarehardwood, brassAustraliarecalibratable$330
Woodpeckers8″ precision square (851)aluminumUSA0.001″ over length of blade$150
JessEm8″stainless steelCanada0.002″ over length of blade$116
ShinwaPrecision Squares JIS Grade 2 200mmtool steelJapan22 microns$86
MarplesRosewood Try Square 19B 9″rosewood/hot blued steelEngland0.01mm/10mm$45
Table 1: A comparison of 8″ squares

Now I fully understand that not everyone can afford top-of-the-line tools. However there are perfectly good mid-level quality tools that don’t cost the earth. Quality does not have to mean expensive. Take for example options for purchasing 8″ squares. Table 1 below shows a number of options. All are well-built and will provide years of use. Squares are not a tool where you want to risk inaccuracies. Variations in prices are somewhat contingent on issues such as the type of materials, and complexity of manufacturing. Note that the Colen Clenton square is expensive because it is (i) bespoke; (ii) made of hardwoods and brass; and (iii) recalibratable, i.e. it can be recalibrated if it goes out of square.

There are some hand tools that don’t really have low-cost equivalents. A good example are handsaws, and I would put this down to the fact that they can’t be inexpensively replicated. This is especially true of dovetail saws, which have a thin blade and fine teeth to create a fine, accurate cut. Saws in this category range include both Western and Japanese saws, some bespoke and others from toolmakers like Veritas. Table 2 below shows the broad range of options available for dovetail saws.

BrandNameBlade LengthMade where?Teeth, TPIPrice (Can)
Bad AxeStiletto dovetail saw12″USArip, 14$410
Lie NielsenDovetail saw10″USArip, 15$235
Great Lakes ToolworksDovetail saw10″Canadarip, 16$230
Pax (Thomas Flinn & Co Ltd)Rip-pattern dovetail saw8″Englandrip, 20$170
VeritasFine-cut dovetail saw9¼”Canadarip, 20$109
Professional Ikeda-tooth dozuki9″ (replaceable)JapanIkeda, 25$85
GyokuchoStandard dozuki saw9½” (replaceable)Japanrip, 21$80
Table 2: A cross-section of dovetail saws

These examples help illustrate that for every tool category there are good tools available, it often just requires a little legwork to uncover them. For instance a premium set of four Narex chisels from the Czech Republic costs less than C$85. Or perhaps It can also mean delving into the used tool market – there are quality tools made by numerous manufacturers from the early to mid-20th century.

❗There are tools where you should always buy premium brands. We’re talking the likes of saw blades, router bits, and drill bits. Or consumables like sandpaper. With battery-powered tools, choose a brand with a robust battery life – power tools with crappy batteries aren’t worth anything.


Categories: Hand Tools

An Annual Festival Commences

The Barn on White Run - Tue, 09/24/2024 - 6:22am

Around this time each year I try to get the following winter’s firewood processed (e.g. 2025/2026).  Fortunately I was being visited by my brother for a week, so we knocked out many tons of wood.  Adding a second person to the crew does not double the productivity, it quadruples it!  Especially when the second person is younger, bigger, and stronger than I am.

We spent three days working together, beginning with harvesting a cluster of four large-ish trees that came down in a wind storm a year ago.  It was a near-perfect blend of trees/woods; maple, white oak, locust, and birch.

After first cleaning up the brush-y ends of the trees we just worked our way up the trunks, cutting them into ~16″ bolts.  By the time my little S10 was loaded fully, it was definitely a low rider.

By the end of the second day we had a substantial wall o’wood to split and stack.  Once we got the crib filled at the cabin I started to build the pallet stacks next to the barn.  Of course, now that I want to spend a part of every day doing that we have a forecast for a week of daily rain after six months of drought.  Sigh.

I continue working alone after he departed and the pace is demonstrably tortillian.  But, I will soon have all the firewood for winter 2025/2026 processed and continue working on several other large windfall trees on the hillside, including a pair of gigantic locust trees so large I might have to borrow a larger chain saw to get them cut up.

My ultimate goal is to get firewood processed through the end of the decade.

Stay tuned.

Categories: Hand Tools

China’s Outstanding Craftsmen

Journeyman's Journal - Tue, 09/24/2024 - 5:32am

What more can be said about this. This is true craftsmanship

Categories: Hand Tools

2nd Mackintosh cupboard pt XXV.........

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 09/24/2024 - 3:43am

 Checked on the MIA tile and after jumping through a sunday of hoops I found out it is supposedly coming on the 26th. What is so damn annoying is that it is spending days moving through the same USPS facility in New Mexico. At least that is what I saw on the tracking site. The bird tile came from California and the flower tile is coming from New Mexico. The joys of S/H are boundless eh?

Houston, we have problem

Can you see the ugly looking me-steak. I don't know how I missed this when I put this together.

not square

The left side of the frame is out of square. It runs down and I had zero problems eyeballing it. Nix the next project and redo this frame went to the head of the line.

 compared side by side

The right looks ok to my eye. The left one is OTL (out to lunch) and there is no mistaking that.

 the back side

The plan was to remove the frame from the front side. If I had any issues with the front, i.e. tear out from removing the frame, I would switch and put the 2nd frame on the back. 

 gone

This looks much better than I thought it would be. The glue adhesion wasn't 100% and I will lay down the 2nd frame over this and evaluate it then. 

what I should have done

I didn't layout the frame for this tile accurately. I cut corners and assumed too much and paid the price. Started off the replacement one by checking the inside of the door square - it was square.

hmm.....

The 8x6 tile ain't 8x6. It is 7 7/8 x 5 7/8. I checked the first cupboard tile and it was 6 x 7 15/16". 

2nd hiccup

I laid out the frame for an interior opening of 8x6. I double triple checked that it was square and parallel to the door rails and stiles. However, the tile is not square. I didn't check the first one for square but the bottom right corner and the top right corners are slightly out of square. Even with the larger 8x6 layout the tile wouldn't fit inside the pencil lines.

 that is a 16th

I laid the tile on pencil lines on the top left going downward to the bottom left. The tile was on the line at the right top and off it a 16th on the bottom right. I ran a new square line from this 16th up to the top. Checked that the tile laid in between the new pencil lines.

fitting the frame

Using the left side of the door as my reference. I marked the door and the frame parts with an X so I didn't lose that.

fits

The frame parts on dead on the line and there is some wiggle room up/down with the tile.

 ditto

Got the same results with these two parts - on the line and some wiggle room.

chopping half laps

On the first frame I didn't make the half laps half laps. I just chopped them out saying that there wasn't any need to chop exactly 1/2 on both pieces. I did do that with these. I fussed a wee bit getting the marking gauge to be dead nuts on center from both faces. Checked each one I chopped with a scrap piece of the frame.

dry fitted

The frame is square to the door and more importantly it looks square. There is also some wiggle room with the tile. There is some movement to be had R/L and T/B. The two bottom half laps are a few frog hairs proud. At first I thought it was because I didn't chop them to depth but I had. The up face of the rail was off square. 

my fault - brain dead me-steak

I shoulda, woulda, coulda, but didn't sharpen the marking knives (plural) before knifing the half laps. The stiles were squirrely and the knife looked like I had done it with a plastic knife. And did I sharpen it after seeing the first one? Nay, nay moose breath, I grabbed the 2nd knife and tore out the knife line just as bad. I also continued to use it to tear out the bottom stile knife lines. As a result of that both the bottom and top stile half laps were slightly (and ugly looking) too wide.

FYI - I managed to unscrew my head from my arse and I sharpened and honed both marking knives.

corrected

My wife looked at my blog and she commented on how much she liked the frame around the bird tile. She didn't notice that the top left was not square. I am going to also frame the first cupboard tiles. Just vertical ones for the top door (no room for rails) and stiles and rails for the bottom one ( have room for them). 

hard to see

This isn't a pic of the ugly half lap gap but the gap between the frame and the tile. It isn't large, maybe a 32nd strong if that. I can see that due to the black border on the tile and the color of the cupboard to come, it will be in shadow and impossible to see.

 better clamp job

On the first go around I used a caul and only clamped the stiles. On #2 I clamped the four half laps and the middle of each rail and stile. I got a pretty good squeeze out all around the frame. I feel more confident that this frame will survive the glue up.

no painting yet

Decided to hold off on the painting until I get the bottom door tile and the frame for it installed. I also want to chop the gains for the hinges before painting. After I get these last things done I'll be free to paint and not worry about messing it up doing said items.

got ahead myself

Forgot to plane a chamfer on the ends of the stiles and rails before I glued them to the door panel. I did the chamfer with a 1" chisel. Had to use super glue and accelerator on two that I blew out.

 sharp chisel

This was not that difficult to knock out. I had to chisel from both sides into the middle to get clean chamfers.

 big helper

I cut a scrap frame part and used it to back up the chamfering to help with the blow out. This worked great and I had enough scraps to do three of them. I did two corner blow out clean ups before thinking of this.

done

Filled in the wide gaps with wood and used wood putty to fill in the knife line tear out. I'll sand this smooth tomorrow.

double triple check again

The frame ain't moving but the tile is. There are a few frog hairs of movement R/L and not so much T/B. This is the way I should have done this the first time. I made too many assumptions with the first one and paid the price. Paul Sellers wrote it again in his blog -'...it isn't what you make, but how you make it....' I must have had my hearing aids charging when he said that.

it was empty

Almost went into panic mode. I was going to call this box done but when I checked the fit of the lid I saw the box was empty. I put the three boxes with the letters and numbers away with rest of the empty box herd. 

 almost done

The box has 3 coats of shellac on it and I rubbed it down with steel wool after the first and second coats. The box still felt rough to the touch like the grain was raised.

Howard's feed 'n wax

The roughness is gone and the box is smooth to the touch all over. Now I can call this done and put a check mark in the done column.

 more the trivia

I have always liked this type of 'knowledge'. Some of it is rooted in superstition but a lot of it is just what was observed, seen, and noted as the seasons changed. If it quacks, waddles, and likes water it is probably a duck. A lot of this country trivia is wisdom and common sense passed down from generation to generation. There aren't many left who are doing the passing down. Besides I like this stuff and geek out on it. I have one more of his books coming in this week sometime.

accidental woodworker

2nd Mackintosh cupboard pt XXIV.........

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 09/23/2024 - 3:33am

 Today I had planned to get the hinges installed on the two doors. News flash - it didn't happen boys and girls. Instead I ordered two new hinges. I got them from Horton Brasses and they ain't cheap. Two ball tip hinges with a dark antique finish, with S/H, was $74. So far on this cupboard I have almost $150 in hardware. On the flip side the hinges are worth the $34 each but at this rate I'll run through my retirement accounts in short order. I might have to learn how to make my own hardware.

As an aside I checked the price of Mackintosh hardware on the Horton site and I almost had a coronary. They only have two pieces - a pull for $67 and H hinges for $110. But the hinges appear to be sold as a pair for that price.

came last night

I got these from Rejuvenation Hardware. Both of them are oil rubbed bronze. Both are substantial and have some weight and heft to them. I was not disappointed in the quality of either of them but I did have doubts on the snap catch.

not what I expected

This snap catch isn't a stamped out piece of imported garbage. It appears to be cast without any thin pot metal parts. And it comes with slot head screws! I'm happy with these and I will buy them again but I still may choke a wee bit on the $23 cost.

setting the bin pull

I had to play with this and I first got the screw holes measured the same out to the ends of the drawer. Squared those lines across the width.

 I like the pull

For this style of drawer pull I center it between the ends but I don't like it centered top/bottom. I don't like it below center and this one is about 3/8" above it. This pull is going to look good against the color of the cupboard.

nice touch

Not only did the bin pull come with wood screws, it comes with 3 different length screws and two tee nuts. I have never seen anything like this before with any hardware I have bought over the years.

couldn't use these hinges

Not only don't the hinges match the bin pull or the snap catches, it is short a screw. Decided here that the best thing to do was to get oil rubbed bronze hinges. These hinges were used because the leaves are oil canned. I had bought them because I needed two sets and this all ACE had. 

home

I nixed the idea of putting these clamps in a 5 gallon bucket. It would annoy me to reach in for a 6" clamp and pull out a 4" one. I had to reroute a couple of wires (for the shop lights) on the back side of this joist to make room the clamps. They are on the other side of the bench but they are close by and visible.

The hinges won't be in until later on in the week so I am once again dead in the water with this. I think I might as well paint it. If I don't paint it I'll probably start a new project to keep busy.

accidental woodworker

2nd Mackintosh pt XXIII.....

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 09/22/2024 - 3:26am

 Weather has gotten crappy for the past couple of days. It has been gray and dreary and today it rained off and on all day. The rain is welcomed because the tree service tore up the yard up and wrecked the grass. I'm hoping that it recovers a little before it goes dormant for the winter. Between myself and my wife we got the everything cleaned up before the rain. I put out 11 yard bags for thursday garbage pickup. I have a pile of branches yet that I have to cut up and get bagged. This will be the last time I'll have to do branch pickup now that the trees are gone.

 cutout time

My first thoughts on doing this was to chisel it out. I was going to saw the angled ends but I couldn't find a way to get the base flat on something so I could chisel it. Ended up using my jigsaw to cut out the waste.

this is history

I don't like the slope of this. It is too steep and I'm concerned that the toe will snap off. I sawed them off straight down.

awkward and a ROYAL PITA

I didn't do the cutout before glue up because I thought the cutout would bend, bow, or move around clamp pressure. The jigsaw was ok but the clean up sucked pond scum. No matter which way I came at the stock, bevel up or bevel down, light touch, or hogging - I got a ton of tear out. 

I even tried a spokeshave and my small violin plane and got the same results. I would have bet I was working with the grain but still tore out. It took a lot of calories to smooth out the torn out areas.

another on the fly change

I wanted to round the top of the vertical cut but I only thought of that after I sawed the ends. Decided to do a chamfer on the cutout. I had to deal with the same tear out crappola as I did on the edge clean up.

 me-steak

I knifed the outline on the face and that was a brain fart. It might have gone better if I had done that at an angle vice straight down. I didn't do it for the other two and relied on working to the pencil lines.

)&%@#_)*@)%(_+__)_)%# tear out

This drove me bonkers. One instance the chisel is leaving behind a pristine surface and then it rips out a chunk of wood. No warning or anything else. I thought the short vertical ends with end grain would have been the problem area but they weren't.

better

Used the sides for practice. The 2nd one was better than the first one but I still had to deal with the chamfer tearing out. I used a 120 grit sanding stick to smooth out the chamfer. I still think that I may have to use some wood putty on a couple of spots though.

front cutout

I took my time with this trying to take the lightest of shavings that I could. For the most part it worked and I got minimal tear out. However, it took me twice as long to do the front as it did the other two sides. 

 done

My back was killing me here. It has been kicking my arse since I did the yard work. My hamstrings finally are feeling better. They don't hurt anymore when I go up/down the stairs. I didn't do anymore bending at the workbench today.

easy work

Planed a chamfer on the top of the base. I was able to do this one entirely with a plane.

attached

Screwed the base on. The first time I did it backwards. Super glad that I didn't use any glue on it. I can't see the chamfer detail on the top of the cutout standing 5 feet away from it. It is also hard to pick out the chamfer on the top of the base too. One last quibble is I think I should have made the base cutout taller. I made this small to keep the height of the cupboard down. I do like this one better than the cutout on the first cupboard.

right side gap

Minimal amount at the front and it goes to zero at the back.

left side gap

The gap on the left is at the back. I should be able to close up both the R & L gaps with paint. If the paint doesn't do it I'll leave it as is as it should be in shadow.

forgot I had these

I have 18 of this style of clamps - ten 6" and eight 4" ones. These I kept in a box out of sight and I forgot all about them. I keep the 4" above my workbench on the floor joists. I don't have any more free space up there for these 6" clamps. Thinking of buying a 5 gallon pail from the box store to keep all 18 of them in. Anyone with a pro and con input?

accidental woodworker

A Silver Maple Bowl and My New Old Drawknife

David Fisher - Carving Explorations - Sat, 09/21/2024 - 9:54am
I like this silver maple bowl that I just finished, and I liked making it even more. Part of the reason is that it gave me an opportunity to use a curved (cooper’s hollowing) drawknife that I had picked it … Continue reading
Categories: Hand Tools

Tomobe – Setting Up Shop 1

Big Sand Woodworking - Sat, 09/21/2024 - 4:33am

When we first discovered our house here in Tomobe, one of the big attractions for me was an existing building on the property that looked perfect for a woodshop. I’ve been dreaming of having my own shop space for way too long, and the fact that that dream has now become a reality still hasn’t… Read More »Tomobe – Setting Up Shop 1

The post Tomobe – Setting Up Shop 1 appeared first on Big Sand Woodworking.

2nd Mackintosh cupboard pt XXII.........

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 09/21/2024 - 3:26am

 I spent almost 4 hours today in a fruitless search. I was looking for a non smart TV either an LED or an older tube one (nonexistent). I went to a couple of Walmart stores, a Best Buy (the clerk was clueless about non smart TVs), and a bunch of department stores. I just want a TV that I can turn on select a channel and watch it. I don't want to surf the internet through it, stream Netflix, check on my emails, or watch YouTube. The only surfing I want to do with said TV is channel surfing. I found non smart TVs on amazon but all their non smart TVs still require an internet connection. Why I ask is that needed? The only connection to it should be cable TV or an antenna.

The TV I have now is a 'smart' TV and it has 6 direct inputs (3 of them I have no idea what they are) other than TV channels. I am constantly fighting with it to stay on a TV input. It is also incredibly slow to to turn on - it takes over 3 minutes from on to watching a TV channel. It is constantly defaulting to Netflix for some reason. I am hesitant with buying a non smart TV unseen but so far I haven't found one in public. My patience is wearing thin with the one I have now so I may bite it hard and buy it from amazon. Although Walmart says they have non smart TVs in store I couldn't find one to eyeball.

 waited

I was a good boy and waited until the next day to take this out of the clamp. I was curious as to how this did - I don't have good luck with gluing miters.

 couldn't handle the stress

It popped off while I was sawing it. I need this to fill in what would be a noticeable gap. I used super glue and accelerator on the second go around. It seemed to be a good connection and where it will live it won't be stressed.

drawer stops

Got one on both sides and I had to fiddle and faddle with this one. I had to plane the edge against the drawer 3 times before the it worked - the front of the drawer being flush with the front edge.

 yikes almost

I dry fitted the frame and the tile wouldn't fit. I don't think I put the frame together the way it was when I fitted the tile yesterday (didn't label it). I planed the inside edges of the top/bottom rails until it fit again.

initials

Hopefully this will key the memory as to what I have in this box. 4 coats of shellac and this will get a check mark in the done column.

bottom door frame

This might bite me on the arse hard but I'm going to do it anyways. I measured the bottom tile on cupboard #1 and it is dead nuts square at 8" long on each side. I wanted to do something towards finishing this cupboard. If it goes south on me I can easily make another frame - I have a lot of scraps.

 used a square this time

On the upper door I didn't use a square to set the stiles and rails. I used one on the bottom door and it came out square this time. The top rail was a few frog hairs longer than the bottom one. I referenced both the stiles and rails off the left side of the door (the top rail was a wee bit longer than the bottom one). I also penciled in the tile and frame parts on the plywood panel.

 hmm.....

I thought I had made the inner dimensions of the frame an 1/8" longer T/B and R/L. I got the 1/8" on the R/L but the T/B is barely a frog hair over an 1/8". I made a blood offering but it didn't change anything. I'll have to wait and check it when the tile comes in.

I glued up the first frame and put the tile in it when I clamped to ensure that it didn't drift out into La La Land. I checked it again 6 hours later and the tile fit but the top left corner was a wee bit tight. I may have to do some judicious shaving with a chisel.

 Blue Spruce mallets

The far left one I bought 15 years ago(?) and I have used it only for dovetails. I have had it repaired once by Blue Spruce and I epoxied a big chip back on it. Recently the handle loosened and the head moves when striking with it. Annoying having it bounce when striking. I bought the middle one as a replacement for it.

There is a slight difference in the size of the heads and the handles. Other than that they are the same. I noticed a teeny difference using it chop dovetails. They feel the same weight wise but the new felt lighter using it?

The far right one I ordered by mistake. I chopped some dovetails with it and it worked but it felt funny. I missed the extra weight of the bigger one. I intend to use this one for hinges and any other finesse chopping needed other than dovetails.

accidental woodworker

No finger pointing here

Journeyman's Journal - Fri, 09/20/2024 - 9:40pm

I enjoy listening to this woodworker because his knowledge is authentic, gained only through many years of hands-on experience in woodworking. Contrary to being a hand tool enthusiast, I doubt he had ever used a hand plane before YouTube. You see, there are three categories of woodworkers

  1. The purist woodworker exclusively utilises hand tools, foregoing any reliance on power tools.
  2. A hybrid woodworker is an individual who proficiently utilises both hand tools and machinery in their woodworking practice.
  3. A machine woodworker exclusively uses power tools and does not utilise any hand tools in their workshop.

In his younger years, this individual would likely have fallen into the third category, akin to Norm Abrams from “The New Yankee Workshop.” Consequently, he is unfamiliar with using hand planes in his workflow, resembling newcomers to hand tools who tightly grip the handle with all four fingers. This does not diminish his craftsmanship knowledge, but it does indicate his limited experience in utilising hand tools exclusively and approaching work with them, which is crucial information to note for a professional or amature alike.

You see, you need to understand, if you don’t already, that not every Tom, Dick, and Harry on YouTube is an expert in the craft, and knowing this can save you tonnes of money wasted on their “expert” recommendation. As an example, one guy professional, not an amateur hobbyist but someone who charges other people, demonstrated how to French polish a dining table that he was doing for his client by hand. He didn’t prepare the surface at all other than sanding it, he coated the entire table with boiled linseed oil and wiped it down. Immediately thereafter, he laid down a rag filled with shellac and BLO and began smearing it all over the table. After a while, the table was finished, and he prided himself over that monstrosity he called French polish. The surface was uneven and wavy, and the appearance was a satin smeared with an oily look. His bill was $3000. These are the many so called “experts” you will see on the internet. There are many people who have picked up the hobby, and due to the popularity and financial benefits, they are experts in both machines and especially hand tools. Any hand tool woodworker with many years of experience can see the inexperienced worker by the way he holds his tool and by the way he approaches the work and with which he uses the tool at hand. Does the tool sing in his hand? Can you see a beautiful flow in the way he chops the wood, planes the wood or whatever music he is creating with the wood. He knows that you cannot go against nature, but you must be in harmony with nature and listen to the wood as it speaks to you. I’m sorry, but someone who has worked with machinery all their working life and has never picked up a hand plane will laugh at what I have just said and never understand it.

There truly are only a handful of people who truly know how to use hand tools because either they employed only hand tools throughout their lives or they used both machinery and hand tools equally. They do not have to be a woodworking professional, that is, someone who is earning a living from the craft. Shannon Rodgers comes to mind. He works for a timber yard and teaches handtool-only woodworking online. He is an expert in hand tools and machinery as well. He talks a lot during his online classes, and that is because his knowledge surpasses most online, so he has a lot to say. Paul Sellers is another source I could trust. He used machinery and hand tools combined throughout his working life. Another legend that comes to mind is the Canadian hand tool woodworker Tom Fidgen. He only works with hand tools, he would definitely be the one you would want to learn from.

Hand tool woodworking went out of fashion during COVID. Yes, COVID killed many industries and many who were successfully teaching the craft both online and in schools. That resurgence we used to have is no longer there and the price of many vintage hand tools have plummetted mostly online other than eBay. For example, Woodwork Forums in Australia have listings that are now bargains. No hand tool on there in the past used to be affordable, but they are now being sold for much less than you will find in a lot of online stores.

The point is that YouTube content creators create content according to what is the latest trend. So if they have to brush up on some hand tool skill to help with their content creation, it doesn’t make them an expert in the field, but they will make you believe that they are, and if challenged, they will show their teeth. There is also one other category and one particular person that comes to mind that fits this category. They have theoretical knowledge on all the hand tools and their use, but no practical knowledge on their application. I won’t mention his name just out of respect towards him. He’s written several books on hand tools and I’ve watched him a half dozen of times on YouTube. His knowledge is A1, but the tool doesn’t sing in his hand, and that can only come from their lack of usage. You see, he was and probably still is a machine user, but his passion for hand tools knowledge is strong, but he probably never had the opportunity to spend the time in using them. He is currently offering classes, and I won’t say anymore than that.

Be careful from whom you learn, and I don’t care how much or how little you know about the craft, don’t follow trend setters. When you see females showing their cleavage while cutting up a piece of wood and then later dancing while holding a small dog. Beware; you have nothing to gain other than an erection. When you see a massive tool collection in the background, like several No. 4s and 5s, 6s and 7s hanging in the background with a bunch of multiples of spokeshaves and whatnot and an entire collection of several name brand chisels, this is a clear sign that he isn’t a professional woodworker who has always worked purely with handtools, and that is mostly a collector who is passionate about hand tools, and his theorem would surpass the average craftsman who does use hand tools and would most probably surpass mine. If you take myself as an example, when I was learning to use hand tools, I was never taught to use machinery, mainly because I was very young at the time and my father wanted to protect me from harm. The focus was on learning how to hold a plane, chisel, and saw, not what kind of metal the plane was made from or whether the blade I’m using is O1 or W1 steel. How would that knowledge have benefited me back then, and does it benefit you today? The only benefit I see is understanding the difference between O1 and A2 steel. In terms of what sharpening stone I can or cannot use on either of the metals. As for the hand planes, unless I plan on throwing them around the workshop, I don’t need to know from what metal they are made from. Instead, I needed to know how to use the tool in the most effective and efficient manner. How to sharpen an iron, chisel, and saw. It took me 10 years to effectively learn to sharpen an iron because I was never satisfied with just being sharp, I needed to know how to reach the next level and the level after that without resorting to strops. I’ve used various stones and techniques and grinders and sandpapers, combinations and techniques to make a grown man cry. None of this was cheap, but no school is. I’ve watched many hours of various woodworkers speak on various subjects, and they all had their own way of doing things. There was sound advice and bad advice. I had to master the art of sawing straight and efficiently, ensuring cuts were precise without wasting time. I learned to balance speed with accuracy, discovering techniques to elevate inexpensive wood to appear high-end and to enhance the natural beauty of plain hardwoods with the perfect finish. I was taught how to use my back and legs, not my arms, to hand plane a board. Also, what height should the workbench be to effectively hand plane a board all day without collapsing from exhaustion. This all takes years to learn and a life time to get pretty good at it. Notice I refrain from using the word “master” because I don’t believe it is possible to truly master anything in a single lifetime. What I’m not good at is cutting out shapes with a fretsaw or coping saw because I’ve always used a scrollsaw, and I’m pretty good with a scrollsaw. I refrain from using a fretsaw and coping saw because of the pain it causes in my wrists. Only if I have to when cutting dovetails. Despite all my knowledge and skillsets in hand tool woodworking, I no longer have the physical attributes to carry out the tasks in an efficient manner due to my failing health and obesity. Introducing machinery to my craft has crossed my mind many of times to ease my pain and speed up my work flow once more. But I’m determined to make a change through diet and exercise and see if that will fix things rather than resort to brute force machinery, which will lead to personal dissatisfaction.

I think I have said enough on the subject infact more than I initially planned too. I have gone well into my working hours and that is not a good thing. I may have almost 880,000 hits on my blog, but it doesn’t earn me a single dollar. It is, however, gratifying that so many people have read and continue to benefit from my blog. I know this from various people that have written to me over the years, either writing emails of compliments or asking me questions. Only one woman got angry with me because I said I don’t know. I’m not afraid to say “I don’t know” if I don’t. I do this without ever asking for any money. Why? Because it gives me the freedom to work wood without devoting myself entirely to the blog. Even when I was writing for the magazine, it was priced well within everyone’s affordability. The idea was not profits, but all proceeds were to be put back into the magazine and not my pockets. It was a long, laborious three years where no one got paid, including myself. It truly was a labour of love. It consumed my every waking minute, I was writing at all hours of the day and night. I was working up to 18 hours a day building, photographing, editing, writing, editing, rewriting, and reediting, and let’s not forget my friend and hero Matt for being a good samaritan and lover of the craft who painstakingly edited my work over and over again. He and I believed in the magazine that one day the whole world would donate their time to the magazine where authors from all over the world, whether their countries are politically friendly to ours or not, could come together and share our knowledge and our love for the craft through “The Lost Scrolls of Handwork” magazine. For it to be a truly community-based magazine, the worldwide community had to contribute towards the magazine, much like Mozilla Firefox is today. As far as I know, the Mozilla search engine is community run and updated, no one is paid to run it. Everyone gets together worldwide and offers their skillsets and time to benefit mankind worldwide, and it is better and safer to use than Google and Bing combined. Unfortunately that dream never came to fruition. If I stuck with it, then I know without a doubt that today that dream would have come true. But after three years of hard work and sleepless nights, we were burnt out, I know I was.

God bless

Categories: Hand Tools

An Old (And Maybe New?) Shop Staple

The Barn on White Run - Fri, 09/20/2024 - 5:51am

As a general rule, in olden days paste wax was made from one of two recipes — Beeswax melted into Spirits of Turpentine (what we call simply turpentine), or beeswax melted into tallow.  I’ve made much of Version 1 in the paste but not so much of Version 2.  So, to best talk to visitors about the finishing processes of the past at the recent 18th Century Trades Fair I made a good batch of tallow/beeswax paste, and I gotta tell you it was magnificent!  I think it actually has some advantages over the turpentine/beeswax solvent paste, namely that it does not have a volatile component to evaporate, is basically odorless (may not be an “advantage” for those who like the fragrance of turpentine), and it is harder in the jar than the turpentine beeswax paste.  This means that the doling out can be more easily controlled and that less is used to accomplish the same goals as with the solvent paste.  I especially like the feel of the tallow paste wax and have been using it on my tools to great success.

I like it so much I just might make a batch of it to share with others who might like to try some.  If this is you, let me know.

Categories: Hand Tools

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