Journeyman's Journal

So sorry about the video aspect ratio. I uploaded it from my phone thinking I’m uploading 16:9 but it uploaded what it wanted. So you have two option watch it as is or tilt your head, sorry option three is not available.

I explain why I raised my bench and how I did it

A lot of people think you need a chart or expert advice to figure out the right size pilot hole for a screw, but honestly, you can figure it out yourself with a bit of common sense and some test pieces.

I’m currently building a clamp rack and needed to sort out the right pilot hole size. In this article, I’ll walk you through how I go about it.

To understand pilot holes, it helps to know how a screw actually works. I’m using a mix of hardwood and softwood for this project, just whatever I’ve got lying around the workshop, since I don’t have enough of one type to do the whole thing.

Here’s the key idea when screwing two pieces of wood together:

1. The screw threads should bite into the bottom piece in my case, that’s the softwood.
2. The screw should slide freely through the top piece which is the hardwood so it can pull everything together nice and tight.

If the threads grab the top piece too, you won’t get as much clamping force, and it can leave a gap between the parts. That’s why I need to drill a clearance hole through the hardwood, it should be just big enough so the threads don’t catch.

The screw I’m using is 4mm (5/32″) in diameter, so I’ll drill a 4mm hole through the hardwood. That’s my clearance hole.

For the pilot hole in the softwood, it needs to match the core or root diameter of the screw, that’s the part of the screw without the threads.

With a couple of test holes and a close look at how the screw fits, you can dial it in pretty easily. No charts needed.

This picture provided by rmgtech.in provides a wealth of information of what each part is called.

For a 4mm diameter screw the core is typically around 2.5mm therefore the pilot hole size should be 2.5mm (3/32). This is a good size for softwoods as softwoods compress however, hardwoods don’t compress as easily and therefore a larger pilot hole would be needed such as 3mm (1/8).

You can find charts on the internet which tells you what the right size pilot hole should be, but there are ways that you can work out yourselves without relying on charts.

Here’s how: Just to refresh your memories we need to take a close look at the screw and identify two key measurements:

1. Outer Diameter – this is the widest part, measured across the threads (in your case, 4 mm).
2. Core (or Root) Diameter – this is the narrow shaft in the middle, between the threads. You can eyeball this or measure it with calipers.

So here I am measuring the Outer Diameter and the reading I have is 0.167 or 4.24mm.

Next I measure the Core or Root Diameter

The reading comes out to 0.119, which is just under 1/8″, but it’s actually closer to 3mm, more precisely, 3.02mm. Here’s a little secret: I still haven’t come across a truly metric screw. They all seem to be made in imperial sizes and just labelled metric. As you can see, calipers don’t lie.

But what if you don’t have calipers? No stress, you can eyeball it. Just hold a drill bit up to the screw and compare. Works surprisingly well!

If the bit hides the shaft but leaves the threads visible on either side you are in the ballpark.

For the top piece you want the screw to slide freely through so it can pull everything tight. That means the hole in the top piece should be the same size as the full width of the screw.

Important point to remember. If you go too small the wood could split or the screw might get stuck halfway in. If you go too large the screw might spin and not hold anything. That is why it helps to drill a test hole in a scrap piece of the same wood before committing to your actual workpiece.

If you ever forget the sizes or do not have access to a chart just use this simple method. Look at the screw match it up with a bit that hides the shaft and shows the threads and test it on some offcuts. You do not need to measure anything down to the decimal. Just trust your eyes and your hands. This is how it was done long before anyone had technical references. It is still the best way to get a feel for the right size when the materials and screw types change.

No charts required just a bit of common sense and some trial and error.

This is the finale of the Build series! In this video, I demonstrate how it all works and wrap things up with some close-up shots of the final result. A great way to see everything come together!

In this video, it’s all about shellac. I give a brief history of where it comes from and show how to mix it for use in woodworking. Simple, practical, and no fuss.

Let’s cut through the noise: talking about CAD software online is a minefield of hidden agendas, affiliate commissions, and people regurgitating opinions they’ve never tested. I’ll say it straight—most reviews you read are either biased, sponsored, or written by folks who’ve barely used the tools they’re praising. Why? Because honesty doesn’t earn clicks, and criticising popular software risks backlash from fanboys. But if you’re after a no-bullshit breakdown of the best 2D and 3D tools for real-world use not corporate shilling here’s my take.

Why Most Online Opinions Are Garbage
Let’s start with why you can’t trust 90% of what’s out there. First, affiliate marketing. Sites earn commissions for pushing specific software, so they’ll rave about “free trials” of overpriced tools while downplaying genuinely free alternatives. Second, brand loyalty. AutoCAD and Inventor users often defend their choices because admitting they wasted thousands on subscriptions feels like a personal failure. Third, ignorance. Many reviewers parrot “pros and cons” lists without ever using the software for actual projects.

The Best 2D Software with its Flaws
For 2D drafting, QCAD is the unsung hero. It’s affordable, stable, and does 95% of what AutoCAD LT offers at 5% of the cost. But here’s what reviewers won’t tell you: it lacks parametric tools, and its interface feels like 2010 called. Still, for floor plans, schematics, or DIY projects, it’s unbeatable.

I’ve already picked my favourite as written above, but if you’re curious about why and how I landed on it, keep reading. What I’m about to share comes from real experience, not just repeating what others say. I’ve actually used all the software listed below, some of them for years, before finding one that really clicked with me and suits what I do. So if you’re into 2D and 3D software for drawing and modelling your projects, but not sure which one to go with, stick around.

When it comes to drafting and design, AutoCAD has long been the industry standard, but let’s be honest its price tag is enough to make anyone wince. For hobbyists, small businesses, or even professionals on a budget, spending thousands of dollars on software licences feels outright unreasonable. The good news? There’s a whole world of free and affordable 2D/3D CAD alternatives that deliver serious power without draining your wallet. Better yet, some of these options are so capable you’ll wonder why you ever considered paying for AutoCAD in the first place.

Let’s start with LibreCAD. When it comes to free 2D CAD software, LibreCAD often pops up as a go-to option especially if you’re after something simple, no-strings-attached, and compatible with just about any computer. But let’s be honest, while it’s a solid starting point for newcomers, it’s not without its quirks. Here’s the lowdown, verified straight from LibreCAD’s website and documentation.

LibreCAD is a free, open-source 2D drafting tool designed for creating technical drawings, schematics, and basic geometric designs. It’s been around since 2011, evolving from an earlier project called Qcad, and it’s built by a community of developers who’ve kept it alive as a no-cost alternative to pricier software. You can run it on Windows, macOS, or Linux, and it’s light enough to work smoothly even on older machines. The catch? There is not catch, it’s strictly 2D.

LibreCAD is completely free. No subscriptions, no hidden fees, and no restrictions on how you use it. Whether you’re sketching a backyard shed layout or drafting furniture parts for a hobby project, you won’t hit a paywall. It’s also open source, which means anyone can tweak the code to suit their needs though, let’s face it, most users just want something that works out of the box. The interface is straightforward, focusing on core tools like lines, circles, arcs, and layers. If you’re new to CAD, the minimal clutter can be a blessing.

But here’s where they can improve. LibreCAD’s interface feels like it’s stuck in the early 2000s. The icons are blocky, the menus are basic, and the overall design lacks the polish you’d see in modern tools like QCAD or even NanoCAD. There’s no support for parametric design or dynamic blocks, which means complex projects like architectural plans with repetitive elements become tedious.

File compatibility is another mixed bag. While LibreCAD handles DXF files natively, DWG support is patchy at best. You’ll need third-party libraries like LibreDWG to open AutoCAD files, and even then, complex drawings might not render correctly. For hobbyists sharing simple sketches, this isn’t a deal breaker. But if you’re collaborating with professionals using AutoCAD, the gaps quickly become frustrating.

Then there’s the issue of development pace. LibreCAD isn’t exactly sprinting toward innovation. Major updates are rare the latest stable version dropped in 2023, six years after its predecessor. While the community forum is active, the slow progress means you won’t see cutting-edge features anytime soon. Need prebuilt part libraries for doors, bolts, or electrical symbols? You’re out of luck. Unlike QCAD, which offers basic blocks, LibreCAD forces you to create or source everything manually.

So who’s it actually good for? If you’re a student, hobbyist, or someone who just needs to whip up occasional 2D sketches like floor plans or simple mechanical diagrams LibreCAD is a decent starting point. It’s also a lifeline for users in regions where paid software is inaccessible or too expensive. But for professionals, or anyone tackling detailed technical drawings, its limitations quickly add up.

In the end, LibreCAD’s biggest strength is its freedom. No cost, no licences, no corporate strings attached. But that freedom comes with compromises. If you’re after something more polished without breaking the bank, QCAD’s one-time purchase or NanoCAD’s familiar interface (despite its subscription model) are better bets. LibreCAD is the trusty bicycle of CAD tools: it’ll get you where you need to go, but don’t expect a smooth ride on rough terrain.

(All details cross-checked with LibreCAD’s official website and GitHub repository.)

Then there’s NanoCAD. This one surprises a lot of people because it looks and feels eerily similar to AutoCAD, right down to the command line interface and DWG file support. If you’re switching from AutoCAD, you’ll barely notice a difference no learning curve, no jargon to relearn. The free version, NanoCAD Free, is a standout for its compatibility with industry-standard DWG files, making collaboration with AutoCAD users seamless. It even tosses in basic 3D viewing (though editing tools are minimal), which is a nice touch for checking models, even if you’re not building them from scratch.

180USD annually for a single user. Need features like dynamic blocks, sheetsets,or advanced 3D modelling? Those are locked behind the paid tiers,including their pricier “Platform” subscription that can climb to. The free version isn’t perfect, though. While NanoCAD’s website claims there are no ads, you’ll see a splash screen promoting their paid versions every time you launch the software. It’s not intrusive, but it’s a reminder of what you’re missing. More critically, the free licence prohibits commercial use. If you’re drafting plans for a client or business, you’ll need to upgrade to NanoCAD Pro, which starts at roughly 180USD annually for a single user. Need features like dynamic blocks, sheet sets, or advanced 3D modelling? Those are locked behind the paid tiers,including their pricier “Platform” subscription that can climb to 500 USD yearly.

For casual users, NanoCAD Free is a powerhouse. It handles layers, dimensions, and blocks competently, and its interface familiarity is a massive plus. But the moment your work crosses into professional territory, the subscription costs add up quickly. Compared to QCAD where a one-time purchase (around $50 USD) gives you full ownership and commercial rights NanoCAD’s model feels like a leash. Several years ago NanoCAD use to sell their software outright for a few hundred dollars. I distinctly remember them telling me that they were the first ones on the scene and that Autodesk copied their design and made AutoCAD. How true this story is I don’t know, what I do know is that I should have bought the software outright then. For what we do we don’t ever need to upgrade. NanoCAD is on par with AutoCAD at 1/4 of the price.

Alright, let’s talk about Draft It. You know how everyone complains about AutoCAD’s price tag but still grits their teeth and pays up? Draft It is CAD Logic’s attempt to offer a free alternative and for basic 2D drafting, it almost gets there. Almost.

First off, if you’ve ever used AutoCAD, you’ll feel eerily at home with Draft It. The interface mirrors AutoCAD’s ribbon menu, command line, and tool placements so closely that muscle memory kicks in immediately. Opening and editing DWG files? No problem. The free version handles AutoCAD formats up to 2018, which is a rare perk among free CAD tools. For hobbyists sketching floor plans or tinkering with simple schematics, that’s a win. There’s no ad bombardment either unlike some free software that nags you to upgrade every five minutes.

200USD) or Draft It Pro( But here’s where the cracks show. Draft It is strictly 2D, with zero 3D capabilities. Need to tweak a model or visualise a design in three dimensions? Look elsewhere. It’s also Windows only, which’ll annoy Mac and Linux users. Performance wise, it chugs when handling larger files, like a car struggling up a hill in third gear. And while basic tools like layers, blocks, and dimensions are included, anything advanced like PDF-to-DWG conversion or custom tool palettes requires upgrading to Draft It Plus (200USD) or Draft It Pro (300 USD).

Comparing it to AutoCAD is like comparing a bicycle to a sports car. AutoCAD’s 3D modelling, parametric tools, and cloud integration are light years ahead, but you’re paying $1,865 USD annually for that luxury. Draft It’s free version is a lifeline for casual users or small businesses with no budget, but it lacks even basic automation. No dynamic blocks, no constraints just manual, click-and-drag drafting.

So who’s it actually good for? If you’re a hobbyist sketching garden layouts, or an AutoCAD user who needs a free backup tool for quick edits, Draft It works in a pinch. But for anything beyond the basics, it feels like using a flip phone in a smartphone world. Alternatives like QCAD (polished, cross-platform) or NanoCAD Free (better DWG support) offer more bang for zero bucks.

Draft It isn’t terrible it’s just… fine. And sometimes, fine is all you need. Until it isn’t.

Cadlogic | CAD Design & Bespoke Software

Now, let’s talk about QCAD: The reason I’ve stopped searching for alternatives. QCAD’s Community Edition is free, while the paid Pro version adds extra tools at a fraction of AutoCAD’s cost. What sets QCAD apart is its balance of simplicity and depth. The interface is clean and intuitive, making it easy to jump in without endless tutorials. Yet under the hood, it’s packed with features like block creation, layer management, and even basic CAM export for machining which I don’t need. Its handling of dimensions and annotations is slick, and the snap tools are precise without feeling finicky. I’ve used it for everything from anything to do with clocks and furniture parts, and it’s never let me down. The library of prebuilt parts is a lifesaver, and the active user community means help is always a forum post away. Sure, the Pro version unlocks scripting and advanced editing, but the free edition covers 90% of what most users need.

The dafult version colours are different to what you see here. This is my tweaks to what I like.

For roughly $50 USD (one-time payment, no subscriptions), QCAD Pro unlocks features that bridge the gap between casual and professional use. DWG support is the big one. The free version cannot open DWG files, only the Pro edition can and lets you save them a must if you’re collaborating with AutoCAD users. You also get access to a library of prebuilt parts (think bolts, nuts, doors, windows), which the free version lacks. These aren’t just static blocks; they’re parametric, meaning you can tweak sizes on the fly. The Pro edition also adds advanced tools like a spell checker for text annotations, raster image tracing, and scripting support for automating repetitive tasks.

But let’s be real: do you need Pro? If you’re drafting casually or working solo, the free version covers 90% of needs. The Pro perks shine when you’re dealing with clients who demand DWG files, or if you’re tired of manually redrawing common parts. The scripting feature is niche but golden for power users, imagine automating dimension styles or batch-exporting drawings.

Now, the downsides. QCAD doesn’t have polar tracking, so handling angles requires workarounds like coordinate input (@100<45) or construction lines. The part library, while handy, isn’t as vast as AutoCAD’s, and the interface though intuitive feels basic compared to NanoCAD’s AutoCAD mimicry.

Upgrading to Pro isn’t a must, but it’s a steal if you value ownership. Unlike NanoCAD’s subscription model, QCAD Pro is a one-time purchase. You own it forever, and upgrades are optional with discounts of 30–50% if you do choose to update later. For small businesses or freelancers, that’s a safer bet than renting software year after year.

(All details verified via qcad.org and the QCAD documentation.)

Let’s tackle FreeCAD – the open-source underdog that’s been quietly challenging giants like Autodesk Inventor. I’ve cross-checked every claim against FreeCAD’s official documentation and user forums to keep this honest.

FreeCAD is a free, parametric 3D modeller built for mechanical design, architecture, and product prototyping. Think of it as a Swiss Army knife: it handles part design, assemblies, simulations, and even CNC toolpaths, all without costing a cent. It’s modular, so you can bolt on features like sheet metal tools or robotics simulations via plugins. Cross-platform? Yep, Windows, macOS, Linux, no sweat. But here’s the catch: it’s got a learning curve steeper than a Sydney skyscraper.

Parametric modelling is FreeCAD’s crown jewel. Like Inventor, you tweak a dimension, and the whole model updates automatically, gold for iterative design. Need to simulate stress on a bracket? The FEM Workbench has you covered. Want to generate CNC paths? The Path Workbench does that too. And because it’s open-source, you can customise workflows or even hack the code itself. For tinkerers and DIYers, that’s freedom you won’t get with closed-door software.

Now, stack it against Inventor. Autodesk’s flagship is polished, stable, and packed with pro-grade tools: routed systems for pipes and cables, advanced simulations, and seamless integration with AutoCAD or Fusion 360. Inventor’s assembly constraints work like magic, snapping parts together effortlessly. But it comes at a cost, iterally. Subscriptions start around $2,500 USD a year, and you’re shackled to Windows.

FreeCAD, meanwhile, is the scrappy alternative. It can do most of Inventor’s core tasks parametric parts, assemblies, technical drawings but you’ll wrestle with clunky workflows. Complex assemblies slow it down, documentation is patchy, and there’s no official helpline. You’re relying on forums and YouTube tutorials to troubleshoot. For professionals, that’s a deal breaker. For hobbyists or small shops, though, the $0 price tag and cross-platform flexibility are game changers.

So who wins? If your job depends on CAD say, designing machinery or consumer products daily Inventor’s polish and support justify the cost. It’s the Bentley of CAD: smooth, powerful, and built for pros. FreeCAD, on the other hand, is the ute you’ve souped up in your garage. It’ll haul the same load, but you’ll grease your hands doing it. For hobbyists, startups, or anyone allergic to subscriptions, FreeCAD is a revelation. Just pack patience and maybe a strong coffee.

Inventor might rule the corporate world, but FreeCAD proves you don’t need a corporate budget to design like a pro.

AutoCAD yearly subscription price: USD$2,095 – AUD$3,195

Inventor yearly subscription price: USD$2,585 – AUD$3,945

INSANE

For woodworkers, the “better” alternative depends on whether you prioritise precision drafting, 3D visualisation, or CNC integration. Let’s cut through the sawdust and compare options:

QCAD (2D Focus)

• Pros:
  • Razor-sharp 2D drafting for shop drawings, cut lists, and joinery plans.
  • Layer management for separating dimensions, materials, and annotations.
  • One-time purchase ($50 USD) with no subscriptions.
  • DWG support (Pro version) for sharing plans with contractors or CNC operators.
• Cons:
  • No 3D modelling. Visualising curved cabinets or complex assemblies? Not happening here.
  • Lacks parametric tools (e.g., auto-updating dimensions if you tweak a drawer size).

Best for: Traditional woodworkers who need precise, printable plans for hand-cutting or simple CNC jobs.

FreeCAD (3D + CNC)

• Pros:
  • Parametric 3D modelling to design furniture, test joinery angles, and simulate stresses.
  • Path Workbench generates CNC toolpaths (G-code) for routers or milling machines.
  • Create cut lists with plugins like BOM (Bill of Materials).
  • Free forever, even for commercial use.
• Cons:
  • Steep learning curve. Expect to wrestle with workbenches and constraints.
  • Poor at organic shapes (e.g., carved chair legs). Stick to angular designs.

Best for: Tech-savvy woodworkers using CNC machines or those wanting 3D prototyping.

SketchUp (3D Visualisation)

(Not mentioned earlier, but worth considering)

• Pros:
  • Intuitive 3D modelling for visualising cabinets, tables, or entire workshops.
  • Massive library of user-created furniture components (e.g., hinges, drawers).
  • Free web version (SketchUp Free) or $119/year for SketchUp Shop (CNC extensions).
• Cons:
  • Limited precision compared to CAD tools. Measuring to 0.1mm is clunky.
  • No parametric design. Change a table height, and you’ll redraw supports manually.

Best for: Hobbyists prioritising speed and visual appeal over precision.

Fusion 360 (All-Rounder)

*(Free for hobbyists/small businesses earning <$100k/year)*

• Pros:
  • Combines parametric 3D modelling, 2D drafting, and CAM (CNC toolpaths).
  • Simulate wood movement due to humidity critical for joinery.
  • Cloud storage and collaboration tools.
• Cons:
  • Subscription model ($545/year if commercial).
  • Overkill for simple projects.
  • Your work is saved in the cloud, you own nothing.

Best for: Hybrid workshops blending hand tools and CNC, especially with complex joinery.

The Verdict

• Stick to hand tools? → QCAD (2D precision) or SketchUp (3D speed).
• CNC-centric shop? → FreeCAD (budget-friendly) or Fusion 360 (premium features).
• Hate subscriptions? → FreeCAD for life, but brace for a learning curve.

AutoCAD and Inventor are overkill unless you’re mass-producing furniture. For most woodworkers, FreeCAD and QCAD deliver pro results without the pro price tag. Just grab a cuppa and dive into tutorials there’s no substitute for practice.

So why settle for QCAD over the others? It boils down to reliability and ease. LibreCAD is great but too basic. NanoCAD no commercial use. QCAD, though, strikes that rare balance robust enough for professional work, accessible enough for beginners, and completely free if you’re happy with the core features. It doesn’t try to be everything to everyone, which is exactly why it excels at being a no nonsense tool for getting plans drawn up without headaches.

AutoCAD might still rule the corporate world, but for the rest of us, there’s zero reason to feed into that cycle. Between QCAD’s polished drafting tools and FreeCAD’s 3D muscle, you’ve got everything needed to bring ideas to life without the guilt of pirating software or the pain of subscription fees. Sometimes, free really is better.

If you’ve ever dealt with a wooden plane that keeps clogging up with shavings, you’re not alone. It’s a common frustration for many woodworkers, but the good news is that it’s fixable. I’ll show you a simple and effective solution to stop those jams and get your plane working smoothly again.

One content creator asked me once “how come he doesn’t get long shavings from his wooden jack.”? Well, there’s alot more to it than just using steel wool and flattening the sole. In this article I’ll deal with those frustrating jams when shaving get’s hung up in the mouth, builds up and then clogs.

First step is to inspect the mouth for burrs or rough spots. If there’s a burr, nick, or rough patch at the frontedge of the mouth especially where the blade meets the mouth, it could be catching the shavings. This is especially troublesome with thin, deliberate shavings that are more prone to snagging.

Use a small file or fine sandpaper around 400-600 grit wrapped around a thin stick or dowel to gently smooth out the inside of the mouth. Focus on the leading edge and any rough or uneven spots where the shavings might be getting caught.

Also, if the blade isn’t perfectly flush against the bed of the plane, thin shavings might be slipping between the blade and the bed, getting trapped. This happens when there’s a tiny gap due to a warp or obstruction in the bed. Remove the blade and inspect the bed where it sits. Ensure the surface is smooth and there’s no debris or roughness. You can lightly sand the bed to ensure a better fit.

Check the mouth clearance. If the mouth is too small relative to the size of your shavings, even with the cap iron moved back, the shavings can get compressed and stuck. This is especially true if the openings is tight at the front and creates a funnel effect. The mouth on mine is too wide to do any fine work, but it is well suited for rough work. I didn’t open the mouth, I bought it like that. To get back to the issue at hand, try carefully widening the mouth just a tiny bit more, especially toward the front edge. Aim for just enough clearance to let thin shavings pass, but not so much that you lose control of fine cuts. You could use a file to make this adjustment slowly.

Ensure the blade is set to take only the thinnest of shavings. Try retracting the blade more than usual and take a test pass to see if it reduces the clogging.

Second final step is to check the inside path of the mouth. Shavings that do not curl properly or get enough momentum to clear the mouth, they might be bouncing up and catching. Thick shavings don’t face this issue because they’re stronger and curl more naturally.

Check how the shavings are curling as they leave the mouth. You may want to make sure there’s nothing obstructing their path i.e. inside the mouth or just above the blade.

The last thing that’s just come to mind I have no photo of so you will have to mentally visualise it is to check if the walls of the mouth are touching the edge of the blade. Even with planes that are new, nearly new or in mint condition, the mouth is always exactly the width of the blade. That makes it impossible to adjust the blade side to side, and sometimes the shavings get stuck between the blade and the mouth wall. If you widen or lengthen the mouth, it’ll stop the shavings from clogging and give you the ability to adjust the blade laterally.

If you follow these steps and your blade is razor sharp you should get shavings like I do.

Goodluck!

For years now I’ve been sharing what I know. I’ve passed on the craft, offered tips, explained techniques, and helped anyone who wanted to learn. I’ve written guides, shared my process, and answered plenty of questions. Not because I was chasing popularity, and definitely not for money. I’ve never done this for money. Not once. Not ever.

I started making videos on YouTube too. Not to become a content creator or an influencer, but just to teach, show the work, and keep the craft alive. That’s it.

I’ve given freely. And I don’t regret that.

But recently I asked for something small. Just a favour. Help identifying a bit of timber. Nothing technical, just a moment of someone’s time.

No one replied.

Not a word. Not even a wrong answer.

That silence said more than any comment could.

It made me think about how often people are happy to take, but rarely give anything back. I’ve seen content with no depth get more attention than anything I’ve written. I’ve seen tool collectors gather likes, while people who actually use those tools go ignored. I’ve seen misinformation spread like wildfire while the people sharing real knowledge sit in the background unnoticed.

This isn’t a plea for attention. It’s just the truth.

If you care about the craft, if you respect real work done by real hands, don’t just scroll past. Say something. Share something. Ask something. Community isn’t built on silence.

That’s all.

I’ve got this piece I picked up ages ago from Lazaretes, or however you spell it, back when they were still around. I never found out what species it is, but I’ve got a hunch it might be QLD walnut. I put it next to a piece of QLD walnut I already have to compare, but the sample’s too narrow to really tell. They actually look pretty different anyway. Funny thing, yesterday I was at a medical centre and saw flooring that looked exactly like this piece. Thought about asking the receptionists, but figured they’d have no clue. So, any idea what it might be?

When I first learned about this I was totally blown away. This tip I picked up from the workshopcompanion. I love this guy he is just a wealth of knowledge. He said by placing pure camphor blocks in a drawer or tool box will prevent your tools from rusting. Camphor fumes will fill a drawer, cabinet, or toolbox, then condense on the surfaces of the tools, coating them with a film just a few molecules thick. And because this film is an oil, it repels moisture and keeps your tools from rusting. Now would this work if you placed shavings of camphor or built an tool chest from camphor I don’t know, but it is worth investigating.

Camphor is a crystallized oil made from naturally occurring chemicals found in laurel trees, or from turpentine. It slowly evaporates from its compressed block, and then condenses on metal surfaces, insulating them from moisture. You need about one to two ounces of camphor per toolbox or cabinet space, and you can expect the tablet to last six months to a year in a temperate climate. Works great, but only if you get real camphor – either the natural stuff made from laurel or the “synthetic” camphor made from turpentine. Avoid naphthalene (which is what they make most mothballs from these days). The camphor we recommend here is probably the synthetic stuff, which is why it’s so inexpensive. Also remember that camphor is flammable — the flash point for camphor vapor is 150 degrees F. Don’t use it around anything extremely hot or that would throw sparks. It’s toxic if taken internally, so keep pets, children, and visitors from eating it.

Amazon sells these blocks and the link to the correct blocks are here: Amazon Australia the link provided is amazon for Australia. Here is the American Amazon this one is an affiliate link, not mine but someone elses. Yes, they are both expensive but each blocks lasts 6 months. There are 16 blocks in a box and if you used 4 blocks a year then you will get 4 years of rust free tools and that pretty awesome in my books.

In this video, I’m making the platen and showing different ways to plane end grain without using a shooting board. It’s all done by hand, using simple techniques and a few tricks to get clean, square results.

In this video, I demonstrate how to thread the receiving piece and the technique required for a successful result. I also discuss the antique Irwin adjustable bit used to bore the hole and show how to achieve drill press-level accuracy when drilling by hand.

Wrapped this piece up this morning for a customer. The dovetails had to be bang on for this one, especially the front, with those curves on display. No gaps anywhere, which I reckon might make some folks think it was done by a machine. And honestly, I wouldn’t blame them. But I’ve got a video coming out later this year that’ll show otherwise. Like always, it’s all done by hand, everything I make is hand work, start to finish.

I went with red oak, kiln dried, so it’s pretty hard stuff, especially rough on my back when I’m planing it down by hand, let alone trying to thickness the whole thing. The plan was to get it all down to 1/2 inch, but with my crook back, there was just no way. I ended up only thicknessing the front bit with the detail, and honestly, I’m glad I did. It gives the whole thing a more solid, chunky look that I really like.

I tacked the back on with some 6 penny cut nails. Cut nails grip way better in hardwood than they do in softwood. One of them started to bend, and I figured I’d yank it out with a claw hammer, but no chance. It was wedged in so tight, it might as well have been a screw. Just locked itself in there.

Finally got it finished with some blond shellac I had left over from the book press project. Oh, and I added some metal lion’s feet too. Honestly, I think carved wooden ones would’ve looked way more majestic.

Let me know in your comments below if you like it and what would you do differently.

Dovetails continued

In this video, I talk about and demonstrate various ways of spacing dovetails. Whether you’re going for a traditional look or a more modern aesthetic, I’ll show you different approaches to laying out dovetails for your woodworking projects.

Getting wood perfectly flat with just a hand plane and human power might seem like a challenge, but in this video, I show how precise you can get without machines. After that, I move on to cutting pieces in preparation for making dovetails. I’m using a Stanley mitrebox number 246 that I restored to get accurate cuts.

This week has been a real rollercoaster, stressful and an eye opener. First, my wife had to be rushed to the hospital by ambulance. We had no clue what was wrong, just that she suddenly went into shock. While she was there, I had to get the house ready for Cyclone Alfred. Sandbags was sold out everywhere and taking any from the beach was a no go. So I grabbed bags of potters mix instead, turns out it was way cheaper than sand and did the job just fine.

The supermarket shelves were wiped clean but I figured as long as I had power we would be alright. Well, that did not last. Hundreds of thousands of homes lost power and even now a lot of people are still without it. Before the storm I bought a little gas stove, only problem was I did not grab a gas canister. The guy who sold it to me said I would have no trouble finding one. Yeah right, they were completely sold out.

Luckily, my old BBQ which I had not touched in a year still had a full gas bottle and the burners worked fine. So my son and I ended up cooking all our meals outside. On top of that, I managed to score a fresh load of ice from a gas station, pretty much the only place that had any. I packed the fridge with it to keep the meat cold. Honestly, I think we got pretty lucky all things considered.

Losing power completely changed things for me. It was tough, frustrating and honestly just plain boring. First off, I waited way too long to buy candles. The ones I had were more for setting a mood in a spa than actually lighting up a room. My phone’s light helped for a bit, but the battery drained fast and charging it in the car took forever, not to mention I did not want to sit there for hours just to get a few more percent.

Then there was my woodworking gear, my workbench, scroll saw and lathe, all shoved to the side so I could park my wife’s car. And with no power, I could not use my computer. No lights meant we were practically sitting in the dark and on top of that the humidity was brutal.

At some point I just sat there thinking, how did people 150 years ago live like this? Then it hit me, we have completely forgotten how to live. Our lives revolve around screens, writing blogs, making YouTube videos, chasing likes and subscriptions just to feel like we are not wasting our time. Back then people worked their farms, had supper, visited friends, read books. They lived real active lives. Meanwhile we are glued to social media, scrolling through nonsense, fake AI generated animal videos, endless political drama and injustice we cannot do anything about. No wonder we feel helpless and looney.

Losing power was a real wake up call. It got me thinking, what kind of life do I actually want? I have got another 20 or 30 years ahead of me, so how do I want to spend them? I cannot even remember the last time I had a proper conversation with my son. But during the outage, we talked non stop, spent every moment together. We even went out in the storm just to escape the house. Yeah, it was risky, but we actually lived. And now the power is back, everyone is back in their own little world, and here I am staring at a screen while time just keeps ticking away.