Hand Tool Headlines
The Woodworking Blogs Aggregator
NOTICE:
Norse Woodsmith will be going offline for possibly up to a week during the month of February to attempt a major site upgrade. If it is successful it will return, however it may look wonky for a while while I dial it in. If not successful, well.. then your guess is as good as mine! Thanks in advance for your patience.
Be sure to visit the Hand Tool Headlines section - scores of my favorite woodworking blogs in one place.
Hand Tools
cherry cupboard penultimate edition.......
It seems I'm not alone with bone chilling temps. Every blog I read I see that there are people worse off than I am. I have seen temps down into the minus single digits F. This weather is here to stay in my part of the universe for at least ten more days due to the extended forecast. It may be freezing cold but we haven't seen much in the way of the white stuff. We have at around 10 more weeks for a white blanket to be dropped.
white as a sheet |
I had to plane the chamfer and the front edge to remove a lot of dings, dents, and other causalities inflicted on it by Miles and Leo. Eventually it will mellow out and match the rest of the lid. In the interim I will leave it in the sun as much as I can.
still not done |
I got the OS loaded yesterday and configured all the computer settings I wanted. I had play around pushing a lot of buttons because I had forgotten how to do a couple of them - like shutting off the time out. This AM I got Firefox, YouTube, and my mail set up. Of course I spent/wasted a lot of time hunting down where I hid the passwords for them.
it is a Stanley #52 |
I'll be rehabbing this one now that I have the iron headache straightened out. I had already flattened the sole so all I have to do is strip and paint it.
touched up |
These are two Preston spokeshaves that I have in the grandson's toolchests. I checked the irons, touched them quickly, and road tested them.
no problems |
The handles on the Preston spokeshaves weren't so awkward feeling today. They still are larger than the Stanley or Record ones but they didn't feel funny today. Made shavings easily with both of the them. The bottom one has a flat sole and the top one a convex one.
Stanley #2 |
This is in the grandson's toolchest. I gave it to them because of the size of it. I think is sized just right for young, smaller hands. Works just as well as its larger siblings.
nope |
In spite of now being able to set it up correctly I couldn't get it sharpen this iron. It kept slipping and shifting while using it. I cranked down on the screws and made promises to it but to no avail. As soon I bore down and applied even a little bit of pressure, the iron would slip. I had this same problem with the LV honing jig for chisels and plane irons. I sharpened this one by hand.
working as it should |
Rounded over the edge and also made some full width face shavings. After sharpening the irons it was like I never had any headaches at all with these.
Preston chamfer spokeshave |
Took a detour and starting playing around with the Preston chamfer spokeshave. No problems making chamfers, with or against the grain, and both pulling or pushing it.
they aren't even |
Did something wrong to get this to come out as is. I think it was because I didn't use the same guide fence as my reference when making the chamfer on both sides.
even |
The pic shows the chamfers to be a little skewed but they aren't. The ends are a bit wonky due to that is where the spokeshave first engages the wood. It will take some practice to eliminate that hiccup. I used the same fence as my reference when planing it on both sides.
within a frog hair |
I wasn't trying to do this - it came out this way based on how far apart I had set the two fences. There is a thin flat sliver where the two toes come together.
smallest chamfer |
This is the smallest chamfer I could make with it. I don't know how to adjust this for a specific chamfer - so far it has been me just moving the fences in/out from the center. I will keep playing with it because I want to be able to do asymmetrical chamfers, ie, where the two faces of the fences aren't equidistant on the edge.
done |
I put 5 coats on it because 3 didn't look good to my eye. I rubbed it down with Howards feed 'n wax and 4-0 steel wool. This will live next to the boxes of shelf pins and cups.
done |
I lost two screws but I have plenty of extras. I brought this upstairs and put it in a corner in the bedroom - it will get the afternoon sun everyday it shines.
cup or a plate |
Decided to use the smaller catch. The larger 5/8" is way too big. It would be like squirrel hunting with a bazooka. The magnetic attraction of a 5/8" is way too strong. With the smaller one I have a choice of using the cup with a second magnet or the plate and one magnet.
the winner |
I am going with a magnet in the catch and one in the cup. That should be sufficient to attract and hold the door shut.
wee bit awkward |
I am slapping myself on the back for leaving the back of this off. It was a borderline postal PITA starting this screw.
I was due for a fuzzy pic |
Gimlets to the rescue again. This is the smallest gimlet I have and it is the perfect size for pilot holes for a #4 screw.
2nd attempt |
I screwed up the first attempt - I didn't set it back from the edge to account for the door. Instead I set it flush with the edge. Set it back and drilled another pilot hole and this one wasn't far enough from the edge (no I didn't measure, I eyeballed it). I tried to file it because I needed to push it back about a 16th. That didn't work.
3 times was the charm |
Had to drill a 3rd pilot hole and that one worked. The catch has about a 1/8" wiggle room to shift it in/out. I got lucky that the 3rd hole covered the 2nd hole. The first hole is not covered and is left for everyone to see.
hmm..... |
The cup is a 1/2" OD and the plate is a 3/8" OD. The 1/2" one is too close to the edge.
barely |
There is a sliver of wood missing on the edge right where this hole would be. If it wasn't missing I would attempt to drill the hole. Instead I'm going to move the center downward a wee bit.
flush |
It took a while to do this. I would drill some and check. I used a fortsner bit and I didn't have a drill stop to help me out.
another broken screw |
I tried it out and it worked and didn't work. The magnet sits in the cup proud of the door so I had to drill the depth for the cup down a few more frog hairs. Of course the ^*@%)*@_)#%(&@*$_@)%*@Q*)_#@*_ screw broke off. I couldn't get it out but I was able to push it out of the way with a nail punch.
fingers crossed |
I might have made it a few frog hairs too deep (maybe). I'm hoping that the two magnets will still be close enough to be able to attract each other.
it worked |
Well it kind of worked. The door did close and the attraction and pull was sufficient. However, the magnet in the cup got sucked out and stuck to the magnet in catch. I would super glue the cup and magnet but I nixed that. I have used superglue with these magnets and plates/cups before and it didn't work. Initially it works and secures the magnets/cups/plates but eventually the bond fails. I used 5 minute marine epoxy because that is the only 5min stuff I had.
failed |
I waited 15 minutes and tried to shut the door. The magnets attracted and pulled the door shut. When I opened it the cup and magnet from door were stuck to door catch magnet. I put the magnet and cup back in its hole and brought it upstairs to cook where it is warm. I'll wait until the AM before I check it again.
accidental woodworker
Writing On a Lived Life

warmed up some.......
The temp was a balmy 16F (-9C) this AM. When I went grocery shopping this AM it wasn't that bad. The wind wasn't blowing which made it seem like it was warmer than what it was. The next 10 days at night will have average temps in the low 20's.
it's toast again |
This version of Linux Mint I got is buggy. Problems with the audio and funny business with updates along with occasional freezes. Yesterday it went off into Linux La La Land and this AM it was still there. Didn't want to do it but I blew in a clean, buggy Linux OS again.
tight |
After one coat the lid opening/closing is tight. I wasn't expecting it to be this snug after just one application.
came yesterday |
Bought a set of 4 for $8. One was selling for $15.
fixing the lid |
Sanded the top and outside edges of the rabbets. Kept at until the lid slid in/out with ease.
fixed (?) |
Sanded the rabbets until the lid fell off when the box went almost vertical. Not only do I have to account for the shellac but the expansion of the lid come summer.
not worth it |
Another cheaply made chinese product. It is goat hair (supposedly) but it is poorly made. A lot of the hairs got deposited on the box and the toy box lid. It isn't as full (thick) as the 1" brush I have used for over 5-6 years.
so far so good |
I had one minor glitch with the first install and I had to start again. I forgot to pick erase and format the hard drive before loading the OS.
acting up too |
It is looking like the Windows laptop is jealous of the attention I'm giving to the Linux computer. The mouse isn't working like it should. When I click on something, nothing happens. The computer froze on me and I couldn't even shut it down. After 3 fits and starts it was working but I was still experiencing a lot of wait time after a mouse click.
while Linux loads |
This is a Paul Sellers jig for sharpening spokeshave irons. I had 5 spokeshaves to sharpen.
sharp cures all |
Got a burr on the back, a shiny bevel, stropped it, and did a road test. It was like I had never had any problems with a spokeshave before. I was able to make shavings pushing and pulling it. Problem solved? Time will tell.
first time |
Doing a round over was hiccup free and spokeshaving a whole width face was a first for me. No problems making shavings pushing or pulling. I tried it on both faces and got shavings equally so on both.
2nd on |
I don't know the number of this Stanley spokeshave. This one doesn't have an adjustable iron. I set the iron with a hammer. Rounded over the end hiccup free. 2 for 2 so far.
3rd spokeshave |
#3 making shavings and it seems that I didn't sharpen the irons properly. I don't remember how or when I did them the first time. Got a burr and that is probably what I didn't get on the first go around.
round bottom sole |
I didn't feel any difference in this one over the ones I used before it. The only thing I had to do with it was tip it backwards more so then them.
ditto |
This is a round bottom soled Record. Other than that it is identical to the one above. No problems making shavings with this one.
Preston spokeshave iron |
This one wasn't working for me. It was clogging after taking 1-2 shavings. The iron is sharp because it is easily chamfering this pine.
it was a senior moment |
I had the iron in backwards which explains why it was clogging. This Preston spokeshave has the tightest mouth of all of my spokeshaves. This felt a little awkward to use - the handles are larger than the other spokeshaves. I'm sure that I will get use it with time.
Preston spokeshave sole |
This is a flat soled spokeshave and you can see how tight the mouth is. The iron in this can't be adjusted laterally neither. The adjusting nut advances the iron straight down. The Preston iron is also unique and there aren't any to be had in the wild. I searched for months and never even got the slightest hint of one.
came after lunch |
These are the only two sizes that Lee Valley offers. I think the 5/8" one is too big for the cherry cupboard door. The smaller one isn't giving a warm and fuzzy it is up to the task.
wrong cups |
I have a boatload of these super strong magnets and cups. I had ordered the wrong size cups for the small one but I had plenty of them.
don't have any |
I ordered the wrong size magnets for this and I don't have any in my stash. However, I did get lucky and I was able to add them to an order I had placed with Lee Valley just before lunch. Should have the magnets for this next week?
the smaller one |
The magnet in this is only 3/8" diameter. The attraction is stronger if you use the cup. I still don't think this is strong enough to keep the cherry door closed. I might feel better about that if the cherry was 3/4" vice 7/8" thick and there wasn't a 8x8 tile glued to the panel. Looks like another delay upcoming.
new tool |
There have been more than a few instances where I could have used a chisel like this. Finally bit the bullet and bought the 1/2" one - couldn't afford to buy the set. It is with regret I'm buying this too because I had 3 dog leg japanese chisels that I sold about 12 years ago. I didn't know how to sharpen then and I couldn't sharpen them so I sold them. This 1/2" chisel is PM-V11 which I didn't know as I thought I had bought the O1 version.
foot long |
I got this so I can flush tenons and mortises and anything else of interest. This will satisfy my curiosity about PM-V11 tool steel too. It supposedly holds an edge for a long time?
when I found out |
If I need another one of these I'll just have to buy the chisel end. The handle unscrews and can be used for all the chisels in the set.
big difference |
The one on the left is thicker and fuller than the chinese one on the right. It is floppy and it doesn't drink up as much shellac as the left one can. I think I'll be buying the $15 dollar one now. The right doesn't leave brush marks but it doesn't feel right using it to lay down shellac.
hmmm........ |
The iron was shifting in the Paul Sellers jig when I remembered I had this. I tried using it before on a spokeshave but it didn't work out for me.
read the instructions this time |
The shiny spots are from the first and only time I tried using this. After reading the instructions I realized what I had done wrong. I'll be trying it out tomorrow on the last two spokeshaves I have left to sharpen.
accidental woodworker
New Iron for a Scrub Plane
Scrub plane from 2022 |
Body, wedge and blade |
The iron, as found |
I had no idea what type of steel that iron was made from, and really didn't know if it was any good at all. It was thick - about 7/32" thick. When I made the plane, I hardened and tempered the iron. I've used it a bit, though not a huge amount, and it seemed to be cutting well for a short time, but needed sharpening quickly. Last year after using it a while I noticed some chips in the cutting edge. Apparently the steel wasn't a type one should use for edge tools. Either that or I messed up the heat treatment.
If you look closely, you can see the chips in the edge |
Another view from bevel side |
The plane has been sitting on the "rehab shelf" for several months now and finally I'm getting the chance to do something about it. I tried reheat-treating the iron and got it to cherry red and nonmagnetic, but after quenching in oil, a file still was able to bite into it, so the heat treatment clearly didn't do the job I intended. Time to punt on that iron. I had a chunk of 1/8" thick O-1 steel of the same width as the old iron, and I shaped it, hardened it and tempered it.
Old iron and new one ready to be shaped |
I drew a 1/16" bulge on the end and filed the shape |
Then mounted it in a vise at about 25 deg and filed the bevel. I followed that with the hand-cranked grinder. |
Shaped the back end similar to some other irons I've got |
Here's my heat-treating setup |
The iron warped a little from heat treating. The front 1" of the back side was hollow and it took a long time to get it flat. The bevel side had a belly at the front 1". The rest (not hardened) stayed flat.
The old iron had a more severe camber on the blade - about 1/8" bulge over the 1 1/2" width. In practice, I never used the entire width of that iron because it was just too much wood removal. The new iron I shaped to about 1/16" bulge over the 1 1/2" width. That's about a 4 1/2" radius for anyone counting.
But because the new iron is thinner, I needed a thicker wedge. Instead of making a new wedge, I glued a piece of wood to the underside of the existing wedge and planed it down so that the wedge would sit in the throat at the right location. I thought I used the same wood, but apparently it's not because it looks much different.
Gluing a piece of wood onto the underside of the wedge |
It looks a little funky, but it'll be functional |
Here's the thing about the wedge. It needs to be fairly precisely shaped to provide a good fit of the wedge/iron to the plane body. But almost as important as that (and probably equally as important for other types of planes) is the fit and final location of the wedge's fingers.
Here's a pic of the unfinished wedge from a few years ago. Note the angled shape of the end of the fingers (left). |
Inside the plane's throat, at the bottom of the wedge abutments, the abutments angle toward the plane's sides. This provides a ramp for the shavings coming off the iron. It's very tough to get a good photograph of the wedge fingers and the plane body's lower abutments, but hopefully you'll see what I'm getting at.
Looking through the mouth, you can see the wedge and lower abutment. A close-up image is next. |
I took a couple shavings off the underside of the wedge until the fit was just right.
Well, that's it. The new iron fits great and the wedge holds it securely. I put a little BLO on the wedge's added-on bottom and the scrub plane is back in business. I'll report back if this new iron is not performing as I expect it to.
Openings in a Carved Box class
May at Galbert’s shop, Berwick ME
I posted this yesterday on Substack, here it is for those who might only see my posts here…
here’s your notice – there’s some openings in my 2nd carved box class at Pete Galbert’s shop in Berwick, ME. May 25-30, 2025.
We won’t get to painting, but that box is the sort of thing we produce in the class. They’re about 7” high, 14” x 24”. Each student chooses their own pattern(s) after a couple of days of practice. The wood is quartersawn red oak for the box parts – white pine lids & bottoms. Handmade iron nails secure the bottom and the lid’s cleats that form the hinge.
Each time I teach this, I’m astounded at the students’ work. It’ll be a blast. This is the link, disregard that its title is about making a chair…
Small class size, lots of details…and this time we’ll be in Pete’s new shop – can’t wait. See you there?
wee bit chilly.......
This AM I was greeted with a temp of 9F (-13C) but the shop was still a toasty 55F (11C). However, it was uncomfortable in the shop. Gone are the days where it had to be below zero, with me wearing a Tee shirt, before I felt cold. The PM session was better then the AM one - I didn't feel like a popsicle. Overnight temps are going to be low going into the 2nd week of feb. Jan and feb are usually the coldest months here in New England.
changed my mind |
I flushed the pins/tails last night sitting at my desk with a chisel. In the AM decided to use a solid wood bottom rather then 1/8" plywood. I am not sure how well the solid pine wood bottom will hold up. If it goes south I'll plane it off and glue on 1/8" plywood.
mahogany is out too |
Nixed the mahogany lid and I'm going with a pine one. That will make the entire box made out of the same wood.
won't flow out |
According to Titebond it says not to use the glue or the material if the temp is below 50F. I tipped the bottle and the glue barely moved. The white glue flowed, slowly, but it did come out. I brought both bottles of glue upstairs to keep warm.
glued and cooking |
Brought this upstairs and set it on a radiator. There isn't anyplace in the shop now that emanates any heat. The new boiler barely feels warm to the touch.
hmmm..... |
It was tapered slightly. I planed equally stepping across the board and I was making equal shavings but I wasn't flat across the width. I used the #3 to plane it flat and parallel by eye.
experiment |
This is the spot I chop tails and pins. I butt one end of the board up against the sliding stop on the left. I want to be able to do that standing in front of the vise. The end cap floats so it isn't always flush with the benchtop. It is something I have been meaning to fix but I haven't after a bazillion years. This is a board with a 3 stops - one on the left, one at the top, and one to clamp on with the vise.
I think this will work |
I have a stop on the left to butt against with the tails on the right. I like the chopping the tails with them running vertically so I can clearly see if I am chopping them at 90°. The top stop I'm thinking will be used for half blind dovetailing. Not 100% sure on that but this is all scrap and I can make another if using it dictates that.
need two rabbets |
For small work rabbets I prefer to use this LN blockplane.
beads and chamfer work |
I planed the rabbets with a slight angle tilting downward into the shoulders. Thankfully I had left the pencil lines and I squared up the angles to 90 with the small record shoulder plane. I purposefully left it long because I still had to plane the beads - that allowed for any tear out from that to be sawn off.
took some fussing |
The side to side was tight. I could slide in/out but not without exerting a little oomph to pull it out or push it in. It is incredibly easy to go from snug fitting to one that rattles and has excessive side to side play. I did one wispy shaving at time checking the fit after each one until it slid in/out easier.
didn't forget |
sanding the end grain |
I sand the end grain (both front and rear) up to 220. Off the saw the ends look and feel rough and stay that way when you apply the finish. Here I'm doing the rear and overall the lid is proud but I'll eat it up sanding the end to be almost flush when I'm done.
just right |
I got a good fit. It isn't crammed all together and there is a little extra to add to it down the line.
sliding lid groove gaps |
I didn't plan on this but the gaps came out pretty small. Rather than fill them with wood I used wood putty. Also used it to fill the gaps on a couple of the tails/pins.
always forget something |
I don't like the squared ends on the grooves. I used to plane a 45° angle there but I switched to rounding them over. Caught while pulling the lid off to do the final sanding before the shellac went on.
first coat |
I am only going to put on 3 coats. I'm not sure if I'll be able to resist the urge to do more though. Paul Sellers said that 3 coats are sufficient protection for a shop project.
toy lid |
The dark area on the end is from sunlight (?). I didn't know that pine reacted this way. I should have been done it while I was doing the cherry cupboard. Not a big deal as it will be another couple of months before it wings it way back to North Carolina. I'll do the back first, flip it, and then do the top.
accidental woodworker
Dark and Light
This is a bit of an explanation as to why the blog has gone dark for three weeks or so.
Three and a half weeks ago the weather forecasters shocked the snot out of us by getting the “what, when, and how much” guesses right on the mark. I mean dead in the bulls-eye. We got the “eight to fourteen inches of snow” exactly when they predicted.
The next morning I fired up my monster snow blower and got to work. I was thinking it would take me two or three hours to get the driveway and parking spaces cleared. At the end of my first trip to the cattle gate at the entrance to the driveway down by the road, the blower snapped both of its auger/blower drive belts. Okay, I’ll just go into town and get a couple more.
Mrs. Barn and I did just enough shoveling to get my truck off the property and into town. Unfortunately, my experience was replicated many times in the county as this was the first time in four years we needed to get out our snow blowers, and a lot of them broke their belts on the same day. As a result there were none in town. Anywhere.
Okay, I’ll find some close by on the interwebz so it can be here the next day or two. Alas, my phenomenon was apparently replicated thousands of times across the mid-Atlantic and none were close by. Eventually I found a place in Milwaukee that had them “in stock.” It’s been three weeks and they have yet to arrive.
Meanwhile, we spent dozens of hours shoveling the driveway and parking area by had so that life could proceed with little further disruption.
This was not the worst snowfall we’ve seen since buying here 25 years ago. I remember planning to come for a long weekend in maybe 2009(?) or thereabouts to work on the barn, and when I checked with my pal Tony he told me not to bother. “The snow is as deep as the top of the cattle gate. You aren’t getting in.” Two weeks later I got in, no problem.
You see, our normal weather pattern is for a storm front to come through and dump some snow, followed by a couple very cold days, followed by a couple weeks of mild (above freezing in the daytime) weather.
Not so this year. Yes, we had a storm front with the snow, exactly how much is unknown because the howling winds moved it a bunch even after it fell. Yes, I saw and shoveled snow that was 8-inches deep. But, I also saw and shoveled snow that was more than a foot deep.
Patiently we waited for the mild weather to return and take care of the snow cover on the driveways.
It never came. It still hasn’t
Once we started getting the long range forecasts for last week and this week I knew we were in trouble. If it got as cold as predicted we would be using a week’s worth of firewood every day. Every day.
Fortunately I had about half of next winter’s firewood already cut, split and stacked. Unfortunately, it was up next to the barn. This meant I had to get a truck up to the barn to retrieve it. And for that to happen, the whole driveway to the barn and much of the parking area next to the barn had to be shoveled by hand so we could replenish our firewood inventory at the cabin.
So I did. Shovel the complete driveway. This meant that from beginning to end I/we shoveled almost a quarter mile of driveway. By hand. Much of it twice as there were several subsequent weather fronts coming through dropping more snow. Sunday’s yield was 5-6 inches, fortunately light fluffy snow so the shoveling was easy and (comparatively) fast. Still, I would guess that in the ten days between two weeks ago and yesterday I estimate 50 hours with my hands on the shovel. I make a point of going slow and steady. Almost every night I was almost asleep by the time supper was over.
This is by far the most and longest-lasting snow cover we have had in our years here. This coming weekend we will have a few days at or above freezing, with sunshine, and that should cure all the ills. It follows two really cold weeks, including this REALLY cold week with five consecutive nights near or below zero at night. This morning was -10 when I checked at 8AM. We haven’t used a week’s worth of wood per day, but still it’s been a lot. Around a dozen arm loads per 24 hours rather than the normal half dozen.
All that Light has been why the blog has been dark.
Card Scraper Question

Do a Favor for Your Non-woodworking Friends - Sharpen Their Kitchen Knives

An occupational / avocational hazard many of us have faced as woodworkers: a request to make a piece of furniture. It might be for a significant birthday present; it might be for payment (or not). Its just a stool (or picture frame, or jewelry box, or bench - to be fair, it typically isnt a Queen Anne Highboy. In other words, its a reasonable ask - except its sometimes hard to make the time and space and effort to make it.
There are many factors driving the interest in spoon carving, but surely the relative speed, space demands, material demands, skill demands, etc. of making a spoon versus making a piece of furniture helps promote spoon-making. The joys of creation and the joys of gifting meet the joy of (relatively) immediate gratification!
But if you dont want to make a spoon, or if your intended recipient doesnt need or want your spoon, you can give another gift that uses your hard-won skills: knife sharpening.
A friend who took a cooking class brought her newly-sharpened chefs knife (her knife; my gift of sharpening) to class. She immediately got a gold star from her teacher. A woodworker did this! They really know what sharp means! The teacher then devoted 10 unscripted minutes of the class to talk about sharpening and its importance in making culinary prep easier.
If you have chisels and plane blades, I hope you have learned to sharpen them. What about your kitchen knives? They work best when sharp too!
It's beyond the scope of this blog entry to go through all the lessons and things you need to know to specifically sharpen knives. But basically it's exactly the same skill you would use in sharpening your other blades. But - even better - kitchen knives are typically cutting softer material than wood and therefore they don't need to be as sharp as woodworking tools.
In woodworking we aim for that glass smooth edge. The smoother the edge, the fewer scratches, the longer the edge will last. That's because wood offers a fair amount of resistance to cutting, which stresses the blades. With cutting food, on the other hand, you can actually get away with a fairly coarse edge. A sawtooth can slice away at a piece of meat even when it isnt super sharp. You can get a lot of use out of a second- rate serrated knife. You even see serrated knives recommended for delicate cutting tasks such as cutting a tomato because a dull serrated knife will do a much better job getting past the tomatos skin than a dull chefs knife does. But on a delicate piece of fish the sawtooth will grab and tear. Kitchen knives also can quickly get dull because they get pushed against cutting boards, which is bad for the edge. (BTW plastic cutting boards are just deadly against a sharp edge.)
As is true with saws, even poorly sharpened knives will cut better than dull knives.
In the pictures I am sharpening several kitchen knives. The series of stones I am using are 400 grit (to bring up a wire edge); 1200 grit (to start chasing the edge); and 5000 grit (to finish and polish the edge). I then strop with newspaper. Why do I use that sequence of stones? In the shop I would use diamond stones; here I am using some older waterstones that I dont use for woodworking anymore - so I might as well use them in the kitchen. Although diamond stones are faster, everything works. When I am feeling lazy I skip the 5000 grit, but I find I get a better result at 5K. I used to add a 10K grit stone, but that seemed like overkill - an impressive edge, but it didnt last.
Sharp tools, whether sharp kitchen knives or sharp chisels, not only make the work easier, it opens new possibilities in doing the work. Imagine the difference using a sharp knife that doesnt slip and cuts where you intend to cut. Such a tool makes any cook appear more skillful and inspires more complex and potentially rewarding work.
I began this blog entry describing sharpening as a skill that you could offer to others because most of the users of kitchen knives have no idea how to sharpen them. Most of the advice I have seen on-line on newspaper cooking sections or mass market cooking sites is actively bad. But to be fair, the writers of these articles seem to not know what "sharp" actually means, or in the alternative, they do not regard sharpening skills in the same way they regard cooking skills: while they will spend decades learning to cook an omelet in a reliably excellent way, they think mastering a basic mechanical non-cooking skill is either beyond them or not worth learning how to do consistently. The standard advice seems to center on using honing steel or some gadget that shaves metal off, or something electric that holds the blade at a special angle. The main problem with honing steels is that they dont remove metal so much as push it around. Over time the bevel will become steeper and therefore less able to do its work. Hand gadgets that shave metal off work, but not without effort and care. Electric knife sharpeners, at least the good ones, work better, but they do take off more metal and do not get to nearly the same level of polish you can get to by hand. Depending on the machine, the knife may also end up with a more fragile edge.
But the most satisfying aspect of knife sharpening by hand may not be the end result, but rather the wonder of using your unusual skills to do something nice for someone else. Even if you cant present someone with a custom bookshelf, you can still use your talents as a woodworker to give them a useful and appreciated gift.

and now I wait......
I don't know if the snow storm yesterday is going to hold up the Lee Valley order from getting here on thursday. When I checked it this AM it said it got to Shrewsbury Massachusetts on the 18th. Shrewsbury is about an hour north of me. Seems they must be hand carrying and walking it to Warwick. Anyways the back is still off and will be until I get the magnetic catch installed. Which hopefully will happen on the 23rd.
yikes |
It was 11F (-12C) when I rolled out of the rack. Three hours later and it had zoomed up 3 whole degrees. The temp for today topped out at 25F (-4C).
wee bit chilly |
I have yet to see the temp in the shop dip below 50F (10C). The temp did rise back up to 57F which has been what the shop has been hovering around for a couple of weeks now.
thinking ahead |
I won this router off eBay a few years back. Never got around to making it functional. What appealed me was the large base and the two positions to put the iron in. Sort of like a wanna be Preston router.
sloppy fit |
The iron is thinner than the diameter of the hole. There also isn't a flat on it to tighten the thumb screw against. The sole is flat but I didn't go into OCD mode checking that.
5/16" drill bit |
I measured the current iron diameter and the holes to get an idea of what I have to deal with. I checked the holes for square using a square on the sole against the 5/16" drill bit. Both holes are square to the sole. The drill bit is slip fit - teeny bit of looseness but nothing like what the current iron has.
as is |
The iron will cut and make shavings but only for the first 1/2" inward and then nothing. The iron didn't slip or twist in the hole. I was surprised that the thumbscrew could exert sufficient force against it.
T |
from the other side |
I checked the board and it had a hump right where I was using the router. Planed it flat-ish and I was able to make shavings going in for an inch. I still couldn't make a complete pass from one side to the other.
The plan is to buy some 5/16" O1 tool bar stock and try to make an iron. Another option is to broach the two holes to take a Stanley router iron. This option will entail me finding a machinist which I haven't had much success with previously. The one thing I don't like about the 5/16" bar stock is the cutting edge of the iron can't be any bigger then 5/16".
rejuvenated |
Done and it only got one ooh and aah. Looks better to me with the finish touched up.
need a box |
I checked my stash of boxes and I didn't have any that would work. All of them were way too big just for this. I am at anchor with the cherry cupboard so I'll knock out this while a wait.
prepped |
I got the box sized - 1/2" stock I thinned down to 3/8". The lid is going to bemahogany. I had to fill in a groove in so this will be the down side of the sliding lid.
used the dozuki |
Tails were done and the pins were in the batters box. The front and back ends are only 3 1/4" and I thought the small size would be awkward to do but it wasn't.
always a good feeling |
I had to trim one half pin for the front. I should have trimmed the vertical wall rather then the slant. Got a gap due to that mind fart.
flushing |
Ran the #4 around the top and bottom flushing and evening them out.
checking the top |
I had a bit of twist that I had to plane. The top has to be twist free because that is the reference edge when I plow the grooves.
plowing the grooves |
This clamping position works. I have tried it a couple of times without any headaches. The quibble I have with it is clamping it in the vise. If the heads aren't far apart the vise will only tighten on one head. I tried using it this way without any problems. If I clamped the bar 180 out it would only close on one head. Which wasn't stable and the clamp moved as I used the plane.
less than a 16th off |
Brought it upstairs and put it on a radiator to cook for a few hours.
prepped |
Bottom and top ready to be fitted. The bottom is dead on the width and I might make another one. There is zero wiggle room and I'm concerned about it shifting when I glue it on. I'll deal with that tomorrow.
Got two days of AM and PM sessions. The foot is kinda better but will throw me a twinge of pain now and then. It hurt walking this morning when I went to Wally World. The rest of the day was bearable. I want this to go away so I can get back to my post lunch strolls.
accidental woodworker
Project Phoenix: VI........Completed!
2 to 3 inches.......
We got the first big snow fall of winter in my part of the universe overnight. It would have been nice if it had fallen on the 25th of December. On the flip side of the coin it was a fluffy, light, powdery snow. It took me about 40 minutes to clear off the truck and shovel the driveway. My wife clears the snow off her car by herself - I'm not allowed to do it. There is no more of the white stuff in the forecast through the rest of January. Only two more months before spring is upon us.
2 1/2" on the wall |
I didn't see any animal tracks when I shoveled this AM. I usually see cat tracks and occasionally rabbit ones but not today.
ta-da |
Sneak peek of what is to come. I got one screw in each of the hinges so I could check the swing of the door.
3rd screw |
I could feel this one starting to twist off. I tried to back it off but it gave up the ship and snapped off.
I got lucky |
I didn't hold out that this would work because there wasn't a lot sticking out to grab on to. If this hadn't worked I would have used my screw extractor and filled it in with a dowel.
fitting the door stop |
This isn't needed because of the door stop/magnetic catch I have coming. I didn't like the idea of filling in the notch in the door. That would be visible every time the door is opened.
yikes! |
The door stop worked good at stopping the door. However, I brain farted and didn't account for the setback in the notch.
didn't get lucky |
I was hoping that I would have been able to hide the screw holes with the stop. I have to fill these in because they are unavoidable with being seen.
cherry putty |
I didn't think this was going to be a good choice. Initially the putty didn't look anything like the cherry cupboard. I still used it and an hour later I was surprised by how well it blended in.
done |
There was much joy and rejoicing in the streets of Mudville. The door is within a frog hair of being flush top to bottom on the knob side. The bottom is dead flush and the top is proud by a frog hair.
inside peek |
center punch |
This is a Starrett center punch and it works like a dream. I get much better results using it over using an awl.
perfectly marked |
This punch is made for metal but it makes a good hole in wood and I have yet to have a drill bit wander from one.
knob screw |
I was worried that this screw was going to end up in the notch for the door stop. I got plenty of real estate between the head and the notch.
another sneak peek |
I centered the door knob top/bottom and on the width of the stile. Usually I will put the door knob off center top/bottom favoring moving it upwards slightly.
attaching the top/bottom moldings |
I used black oxide, oval head screws to attach the moldings. 3 at the front and one each at the back. The back ones have elongated holes to allow for expansion and contraction.
the original |
I don't use a battery operated drill to install slot head screws. I find it impossible to drive the screws without the drill falling off the screw and ruining the wood as it dances across it. I left the heads of the screws proud. I've had good luck using the yankee driver. I have 3 of them and this is the one that gets the most love from me.
more sneak peeks |
I entertained the thought of not using the moldings. I liked the look of the cupboard without them. There wasn't any other use for them so I stuck with the original plan.
hmm..... |
This let go while I was installing the shelf pin cups. At first I didn't know what it was or where it had come from. It is the center drawer guide and I had glued it with super glue. I have zero luck with anything I glue together with super glue lasting long term. Glad it gave up the ship now so I can reglue it.
sigh |
Got two problems with the shelf. The first one is that it is too long, R to L. The second headache is this shelf pin is off from the notch in the shelf.
glad I left it long |
The shelf pin cups stick out a strong 32nd (a 16th adding both sides). The shelf did fit but it was a wee bit too snug trying to slide it by the shelf pin cups.
shaved a few |
I barely skim cut a frog hair off of both ends of the shelf.
fixed |
The shelf easily fits between the shelf pin cups at all five positions. The shelf now fits and the notches align (all four) on each shelf position too. I found that the shelf pins weren't fully seating on 6 cups. I checked and set the pins flush in all 20 of the shelf pin cups.
fixed |
I used a hammer to set the proud pins fully into the shelf pin cups. That cured the back shelf pin that didn't align with the notch.
more shellac |
I got a few smudges and the such that I needed to touch up. I'll eyeball the cupboard again in the AM and see if I need to do more shellac work. If I have no more shellac to do, all that is left to do is the magnetic door catch (coming thursday) and getting the back on. Still thinking on how I'll do that - 3 options - 1st one is to glue it, 2nd is to nail it, and the 3rd and final one is to screw it. As of this typing the 2nd option is in the lead.
this killed the lights |
I spent 15 minutes searching for this only to find it in my shirt pocket. Immediately shut the lights off and headed upstairs. BTW this is a tool for setting the shelf pin cups in the holes.
accidental woodworker
no change.......
The left foot still is being an )_@&*%&^%_)(%_{*+_^%(# a-hole and still hurting. I got some things done in the shop but no where what I wanted. I ran into one snag without resolving it. I'll have to deal with it tomorrow where hopefully I'll be able to manage time in the AM and PM sessions.
not a good omen |
Picked getting the tile frame installed first. Of course the first screw broke off and I couldn't get it removed with the slip joints. However, I was able to get the left over screw out with vise grips.
(#@^%(%)*@#*%)(#@ |
I used a gimlet to chase this screw hole and make it a wee bit deeper. Didn't do diddly because the 2nd screw snapped off too. This time I couldn't get the left over screw removed. There wasn't enough sticking out to grab a hold of.
I didn't want to try and make a replacement rail so that option was out. I thought of using a screw extractor but nixed that too. Instead I decided to use the screw on the left and use super glue to hold the broken off screw in place. The stiles notch over the rail holding it down - got lucky with that.
it fits |
I had my doubts with this. Besides the two broken screws, the stiles and rails didn't seem to want to fit anymore. I had to trim one end before it fit between the door stiles. I finally got all the other screws installed but they are all proud of the panel. I was erring on the side of extreme caution so I wouldn't snap off another screw head.
drawer knobs |
Everything seemed to be fighting me with the cherry cupboard today. The first two screws I tried I screwed up. Made one too short - not enough threads - and the other one I messed up the threads. I was running them through a 8-32 die to clean up the cut threads (cut down a 2" long screw) but I ran one through one of the relief holes instead of the center thread cutter.
I used blue thread lock on them but the tube I was using was clogged. I ran a large sewing needle through the hole clearing it and a gallon shot shot out when I cleared it.
Before I killed the lights I also survived dropping each of the knobs twice. FYI neither of them bounced. But I also didn't scratch, dent, or other wise beat up the finish. I will also have to touch up the left drawer because the shellac got marked up somehow?
Maybe tomorrow I'll get the door hung and the door knob installed too. Still thinking on where and how I'll be putting that.
accidental woodworker
done.......?
After a couple of days of the foot feeling better and almost fooling me it was healed, last night it started hurting again. My right foot was feeling lonely because it was throwing a few twinges of pain my way. I molded my butt cheeks to a chair for most of the day. By late afternoon the foot was feeling better again but I don't know what tomorrow is going to be like.
my daily box |
I have been using this to keep the keys, wallet, etc etc in one place since 9/2023. I used to throw everything into my hat before I switched to this.
two surprises |
The first surprise was how long I've been using this box. The 2nd one is how durable these hinges are. I go in/out of this box several times every single day and so far no problems with the hinges. I did not think that they would last this long. These are the larger sibling of the smaller ones just like this. Gives me hope that they will last just as long. I have the smaller set on the bureau I made for Leo.
done |
I'm calling the shellac work fini for the cherry cupboard. All that is left is to hang the door, install the back, and screw on the frame for the tile. I didn't go back to the shop last night because of the foot. So I got the last two coats on in the AM session.
ready for tomorrow |
Before I install the back I will hang the door first and the door stop. Having the back off will make that easier to do. According to UPS my magnetic door stops won't be here until thursday. I think I will wait on the back installation until I get that. So it'll be another week before I can ooh and aah over the cherry cupboard.
accidental woodworker
more of the same......
I'm getting tired of applying shellac. Mostly because there isn't anything else I can do. Shellac dries quick but I still have to wait. The stuff having shellac is also occupying every horizontal surface in the shop. I'm making a dent but I'm still not out of the woods. On the flip side of the coin, the pin light at the end of the tunnel got significantly bigger and brighter today.
saved $35 |
I don't particularly care that I have a cue ball head with some fuzz called a haircut, doing it myself. I do like that I am not paying $35 for it to be done. The VA barbershop has been closed every time I have been at the hospital for the past 3 years. Haircuts there were $12 the last time I got one. I would pay that but the creek would have to rise a mile high before I'll pay $35 again (probably $45 now).
old and new |
Both of these are hake brushes and the one on the right has been my shellac brush for the past 6 years. I think it is time to retire it because it leaves brush marks. It doesn't have the 'full' look of the newer one anymore. The left one is 3/4" wide and it isn't leaving brush marks.
I went on amazon to buy another 1" wide one but at first I couldn't find one. There only seemed to be sets of Hake brushes for sale on amazon. After searching for 1" Hake brush I found one - for $14. There were sets of four 1" brushes for $8 and eight brush sets for $15. All of them are made with goat hair - no mention of any synthetic hairs/fibers.
inside view |
The camera didn't pick up the grain and especially the colors in it. This cherry is a bit awkward to plane but its look out weighs those headaches.
3rd coat |
All 3 of the coats on this side of the back were done with the new hake brush. No brush marks to be seen anywhere. I mostly saw them to be at the top and bottom edges. Unfortunately the 4 horizontal marks on the panel are still visible - the shellac isn't filling them in.
came today |
After posting a blog about this last week I realized that I didn't have a back up. I also didn't have one of them in the grandkid's toolchest. I looked at getting the one with big wooden handles but opted for the smaller brass handled one. BTW he also sells an accu-burr without handles at all - which is also the cheapest one.
3rd till |
The #80 Stanley and a leather holder with card scrapers lives in the 3rd till. This is where I'll keep their accu-burr. I like the thought of having a back up to use if mine decides to go on walk about.
not done |
I was going to call this done but the two uprights on the outside faces each had a couple of white spots. Not sure if they are glue smears or a lack of shellac. I put on another coat of shellac concentrating on the 'white' spots.
left side white spots |
I can't think these are glue smears because there isn't any 'gluing' around them. They seemed to disappear after I applied shellac. I'll check them again after dinner. I plan to do another round of shellac then.
almost done |
The outside is done and the interior has 3 coats. I'm calling it done after the 4th one is done. The drawer fronts, inside shelf, and the top/bottom moldings I'm also calling done. I have at least two more coats of shellac to put on the door front. I hope to be done with all of it in the AM session tomorrow.
from China again |
These came in today and initially I had my doubts about them. They didn't look like they were the same size as the Kreg ones. The chinese ones looked to be thinner but I was wrong.
sizes are identical |
Width and length are less than a frog hair off with each other. The grooves in the chinese ones aren't as prominent as the Kreg ones. The chinese ones look like thinner twins of the Festool tenons. I'll be trying them out in the AM.
accidental woodworker
Adze Owner’s Manual
Shaker Handled Step Stool
This is a project I've been thinking about for quite some time. We have a little step stool in the kitchen that helps my wife reach some things on higher shelves. But she has to reach to the floor to grab it and move it. I don't know where I first saw a design like this, but having a tall handle seems like a great idea for a kitchen step stool.
It'll look something like this |
I made this out of the red oak I got from a neighbor's kitchen remodel. The handle is about 30" tall, the step is 8 1/2" wide and 12 1/2" long and is 9" off the floor. The joint between the step and the low upright (front legs) used dovetails. It's been a few months since I dovetailed anything, and I felt a little rusty.
Tails cut and waste chopped |
Pins cut and waste chopped out |
The fit wasn't perfect. I filled a couple of small gaps after glue-up. For the joint between the step and the tall handle, I used multiple (roughly) square mortises and tenons. I left the tenons about 1/16" proud, because I like the look.
Handle board below, step above, marked and ready for cutting |
Another view. The left/right extents of the mortises and tenons were marked with a panel gauge, referencing off the same side (edge) |
Mortises in the handle piece were first bored, then chopped to the lines |
Checking for square inside walls |
Looking pretty clean |
The tenons came out pretty good, still a little paring to do here |
Got a good fit |
I wanted to add something for visual interest (and so my wife might like it), so I cut out a heart shape at the top of the handle. The heart doubles as a hand hole. I practiced with scrap first, and that was a good idea so that I'd get a good heart shape on the real thing.
Practicing on scrap of same width |
The heart/handle came out pretty good |
Next was shaping the handle piece and creating feet. The handle had gentle curves starting 1" above the step and ending a couple inches below the heart. The feet were made by cutting out a half-ellipse, 5 1/2" minor axis and 10" major axis (only half the major axis length was used because I'm using a half-ellipse).
Template used to mark out the shape on the handle |
Handle sides shaped - awaiting the half-ellipse for creating feet (no pics) |
Before gluing up, I did a few dry-runs to figure out my clamping strategy. The glue-up went fine, but it always looks so silly with all those clamps in place. There's a lot going on in the picture below. They're not seen in the photo, but there are two pieces of scrap placed between the front feet and back feet. They are the exact length as the distance between the step's two shoulder lines - the dovetail side and the tenon side. These pieces were placed between the feet so that the joints would stay square when clamped up.
Those deep-reach clamps extending out left and right are clamping the rail to the underside of the seat. I made these many years ago from plans in Wood magazine (I think), and they really come in handy at times.
The glue-up |
These cauls were used for clamping the multiple tenons (top) and the dovetails (bottom) |
I'm happy with the result. The dovetails look pretty good and the the through tenons fit well. The following pics are after a first coat of shellac.
The dovetails and through tenon of the rail |
The multiple mortise and tenon joint, with rail tenon on the handle side |
And the final product:
First coat of shellac applied |
I've got three coats of shellac on now, and I'll give it another coat or two tomorrow (but not on the underside). Time will tell if it gets used in our kitchen. It's intended to replace (or be in addition to) a step stool that has huge sentimental value to my wife.
Another Perfect Scraper Solution
From the Lost Scrolls of Handwork to Wooden Wares Handwork: A New Chapter
If you’ve followed me for some time, you’ll know I’ve always been passionate about celebrating the timeless beauty of woodworking. From sharing expert techniques to publishing insights on traditional methods, my focus has been on preserving and celebrating this craft. But, as with any journey, there comes a time to turn the page and start a new chapter.
I am excited to introduce Wooden Wares Handwork, a new iteration of my brand that reflects a shift in focus. While my blog will remain as informative and engaging as ever, I’ve chosen to channel my energy into creating handcrafted wooden wares for the public, rather than publishing magazines or catering to wholesalers. This change represents more than a business decision it’s a commitment to making my craft accessible to everyday people who value the charm and sustainability of handmade goods.
Over the years, I’ve received an overwhelming amount of feedback from readers and customers who wanted more than just advice or inspiration. Many of you wanted to bring a piece of this craftsmanship into your homes. While publishing magazines and working with wholesalers allowed me to share knowledge widely, I felt it was time to connect more directly with individuals who love and appreciate handmade wooden pieces. This new focus lets me put my skills directly into your hands.
First and foremost, let’s be clear: this blog isn’t going anywhere. Wooden Wares Handwork will continue to be a space for woodworking enthusiasts to learn, share, and grow. Whether you’re looking for tips on crafting with hand tools, exploring different types of timber, or learning about the history of woodworking, you’ll still find the content you love here.
My dedication to educating and inspiring the woodworking community hasn’t changed. The only difference is that now, alongside sharing knowledge, I’ll also be offering you the chance to own a piece of my craft.
With Wooden Wares Handwork, my focus is on creating smaller batches of handcrafted items from Jewellery Boxes and Clocks to trays and decorative pieces. These items are made with the same care and traditional methods that I’ve always championed. Each piece reflects my commitment to sustainability and the beauty of natural materials.
By selling directly to the public, I hope to forge a more personal connection with my customers. Each item tells a story of skill, tradition, and creativity, and now those stories can find a place in your home.
I’m thrilled about this next chapter and what it means for our community. Wooden Wares Handwork is more than just a business it’s a celebration of handmade craftsmanship and the people who cherish it. I hope you’ll join me on this journey, whether you’re here for the insights I share or the pieces I create.
As always, I welcome your thoughts, questions, and feedback. Thank you for being part of my story, and I look forward to crafting the future together one piece at a time.
where's the light.......
I'm still slugging my way through getting the finish on the cherry cupboard. It seems like its all I've done for weeks. I'm making a dent in though and I think I see a pin hole of light at the end of the tunnel. I'm optimistic about maybe being done with it early next week.
I slipped a little bit on it today. In the AM I had to bring the truck in for service and in the PM I went with my wife on a road trip. It isn't often that she asks me to go with her on her dead people trips. It was a nice afternoon even though I didn't have a lot to do while she did her thing.
closing in |
The back side of the door is done and I started on the front. I remembered to leave the middle of the panel unfinished. That is where I will glue the tile and it needs to be raw wood.
done? |
I got one coat on it and it looks good. I went and looked at it again after dinner and my opinion of it didn't change. Shellac is a wonderful finish that is able to heal itself. I will put one more coat of shellac on it and call it done.
didn't fit |
Says it will fit most sprayers but it wasn't a fit for my Moen one. This was the cheapest one that Lowes sold ($9). I'll toss it in my plumbing parts box for a future use.
from Amazon |
Is there anything that you can't get from them? Next day delivery and I then spent a bazillion minutes trying to get it installed.
gave up |
I tried my hardest to replace the hose too but I said NO MAS. I could not figure out how to release the existing hose. Along with the sprayer hose were the two hoses for the hot and cold feed. I couldn't see the sprayer hose clearly and I had to rely on feeling for it. That didn't work and I ended up replacing the spray head
I felt my age today first by spending a ton of calories clearing out the space under the sink and running up and down the stairs to shut/open the water main. I had to flip myself onto my back a bazillion times which got slower and slower each time I had to do it. Lying on my back and looking up to work against gravity sucked pond scum.
The only options I saw were to remove the sink basin and replace the spray hose that way or call a plumber and have him/her do it. Wasn't thrilled with paying out a lot $$$$ so I replaced just the spray head. Not ideal IMO but it is working again.
The existing broken one stuck open constantly spewing water. I had to whack it against the side of the sink to shut it off. At least I don't have to do that anymore.
I used to do all my own home maintenance but with aging I don't want to do it anymore. But I'm between a rock and hard spot - having someone else do the work ain't cheap. Especially so when both of us are retired.
accidental woodworker
Pages
