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Norse Woodsmith will be going offline for possibly up to a week during the month of February to attempt a major site upgrade. If it is successful it will return, however it may look wonky for a while while I dial it in. If not successful, well.. then your guess is as good as mine! Thanks in advance for your patience.
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lunchbox planer table/cart...........
sunday night after dinner |
I came back to the shop to put a coat of shellac on the prototype cupboard. Before I killed the lights I sawed the half laps for the last two short top aprons. All that were left were the 4 long ones.
3 splits/cracks |
You never know with this white wood stud material. Got two splits/splinters cleaning out the half lap and one on the outside. Glued and cooking first thing in the AM.
easy to confuse me |
Another gotcha from sawing the half lap and notches on the wrong face. This one is bad because it weakens the leg at this junction of aprons and leg. I glued a piece in with a snug fit and I'm hoping for the best.
layout |
The last four aprons to saw the half lap out. No surprises, headaches, or me-steaks with any of the sawing.
sub assemblies first |
The idea was to glue up the two long sides first and let the glue set up. Then attach the 4 short aprons.
wonky already |
All of the half laps have some proud/short issues due to the wood cupping/bowing/ and doing stupid wood tricks. Nothing major and as long as I get it together today it should stay together. I didn't to flush any discrepancies as long as they don't interfere with the joinery.
not much meat |
This is where the short apron will go and it will only have 3/4" to glue and screw to. To extend that I am going to do a 45 miter on the aprons at the bottom. I don't have this issue with the top aprons.
top short aprons |
There is no notch for the top aprons to sit in. The half lap is 1 1/2" too long. It won't matter too much as these aprons will still be almost 24" long on the outside dimensions.
dry fit |
notch filler |
The fit R/L is snug but the thickness is a wee bit off at the top and bottom on the right side. There was a slight hump in it that planed and the gaps disappeared after that. I did go a little anal fitting this because of where it is and how much it effects the overall integrity and strength of this leg/apron junction.
I glued up this one sub assembly and set it aside to dry. I then braved the Rte 10 and Olneyville traffic to go to the VA. My right eye has been tearing excessively for over a week. In the morning when I wake up it almost glued shut and during day I have to fight myself not to rub it constantly. I waited this long because I don't want to come across as a whiny old man who bitches and complains about ache, pain, and change to them. Turns out I have an infected peeper. 7 days on eye drops and if it doesn't work I have to go to the eye clinic next.
over length miters |
Back from the VA and after lunch I roughed sawed the miters and I impressed myself. I only had one of the eight I wandered off the layout line. Not important because I shot the 45 on the shooting board. On the other hand my sawing has improved with 45s but I still have a ways to go with them.
shot the miter |
Miters are like sharpening a tool. You don't want any reflected light at the end of the toe. With a 45 you want the same thing - no flat at the toe - just plane until it gets pointy.
too long |
I knew that going into this. I purposely shot the miter a 1/8" too long so I could sneak up on a tight fit. The width of the apron is snug and I wanted a gapless toe joint .
blurry pic of a gap |
The miter toes are closed up but the shoulder of half lap is a 16th above the face of the leg. I had to shoot some more off the miter.
about 3 frog hairs |
The mating shoulder is a shade over 3/4". I planed it until I had it between the 3/4" and 13/16" lines on the rule.
tight to the leg |
The shoulder is sitting flush and tight on the face of the leg. The outside face of the apron is flush with the edge of the leg. Promising so far.
happy with this |
The toes are closed shut and the apron is square to the face of the leg on the inside.
minor headache |
Didn't think the top aprons all the way through to the end. No biggie, I will glue and screw it to the outside edge of the legs. I marked them for the length and added an 1/8" for fitting.
this is a dovetail saw |
I bought this because Tage Frid recommended (in 1984-ish?) this saw for dovetails. I used it once for that purpose and since then I have used it as a flush cutting saw. You can swing the blade to either right or left - pretty handy. Got a workout today sawing the notch filler off.
yikes |
It ain't supposed to look like this. This is only a shop project but even this is unacceptable IMO. I didn't check nor did I clamp this when I did the glue up.
Mr Lumpy too the rescue |
I had applied glue to both faces of this joint but they didn't mate so I took a chance that I could beat the snot out of it and seat it. I got it closed up a lot but not 100%.
the Wetzler brothers |
These clamps could clamp the Grand Canyon shut. I was able to close it shut with hand pressure. I was prepared to use pliers to turn the screws on them. Got lucky and dodged the bullet here.
I like this hammer |
For the past bazillion years I have used a 8oz rip hammer. I haven't found any need to use a 16oz or heavier hammer in the shop. I was a bit skeptical about the short handle length on this but it didn't matter. I nailed all the toes with 5 nails using this hammer. The balance is better then 8oz rip I have been using. No headaches driving the nails. I'm impressed with this hammer and all that is left is for me to use the peen end to start some brads.
corner braces |
I sawed these on the bandsaw and I was surprised by how well they fit off the saw. I was also mildly surprised by how close to square the corners of the cart were. Made installing these easy peasy.
I'll take it |
I couldn't leave this alone and I flushed where the apron was proud by the bottom heel. That threw off the fit a bit. Planing this on the shooting board wasn't working too well so I sanded the high spots with the 80 grit sanding block.
last four |
These were for the bottom. I made these an inch longer than the top ones because of the screwed up half lap/notch joint. In hindsight maybe I should have made them smaller. I guess I'll find out whether I'm right or wrong on that.
done |
I didn't get this done today because I lost a couple of hours going to the VA. I should be putting a check mark in the done column tomorrow barring a nuclear blast going off close by.
tomorrow |
I will saw off what I can and than flush it with a plane in the AM. After that I can dig out the plywood for the top and the bottom shelf.
not too heavy |
I'm satisfied with this and it should do what I expect from it - hold the lunchbox planer at a comfortable height and not fall off. I don't think I will have any problems keeping this in the boneyard and transporting it up/down from the driveway.
accidental woodworker
Latest Interview (not woodworking)
on the 7th day......
Started day seven by going on a road trip to Lowes. I bought eight 2x4s for $32 which is less than half of what it was the last time I checked the price. I bought spruce (white wood) because they were cheaper than doug fir studs. I only needed 4 but you never how this wood will react once you start sawing it up. I'm sure that I can use the left overs for something else.
oops |
I forgot to remove these spax screws and replace them with black oxide oval head screws. I also forgot to replace them on the bottom too.
ready to go |
I broke the 2x4s down in the driveway. I sawed all the lengths 2" longer than needed. I am just winging this design. All I want from it is to hold the lunchbox planer stationary while I use it. So the only important things to tic off are the height and the size of the top.
ready for step two |
I changed my mind on how I was going to make this. Instead of just gluing/screwing the aprons to the legs I decided to get fancy. Half laps all around secured with glue/screws.
extras |
I plan on using these off cuts for mitered blocking at the corners and for checking set ups.
only one at the bottom |
I missed the boat on this one big time. I had enough screws to do it and I ordered more from Blacksmith bolt.
final stock prep |
Used the tablesaw to square the ends and saw them to final length. I also sawed the rounded edges off - ended up a 3" wide.
half lapping |
Used the bandsaw to make the half laps on the tops of the legs and both ends of the aprons.
sigh |
Got confused on the positions of the half lapsnotches. One is on the face and a 3/4" deep notch on the edges. Screwed up the side where the 3/4" notch was supposed to be. Luckily I survived this and only brain farted on one.
bit of a gap, eh? |
The half lap fits snug so I have that going for me. I will epoxy in a filler on the back notch.
small gap on the right |
I want this to be as snug as I can possibly make it. The second one I made is snug R/L but I have to thin the width a wee bit. That will happen when glue up time rolls around.
lifesaver |
I double, triple checked myself before I made any saw cuts or chiseling. I wanted to make sure that I didn't have a brain fart and ruin it again. Had plenty of stock if I did but I was shooting for not doing that.
cleaning up |
The half lap at the top came out clean and didn't need a lot of attention. The half lap and notch at the bottom I removed the majority of the waste with a 2" chisel and smoothed it with the rabbeting blockplane.
big LN tenon saw |
None of my carcass saws (2 1/4") had enough saw plate to reach the bottom of the half lap. The LN (4 1/4") doesn't get used much but today it shined. This saw is no longer made by LN.
two down, 6 to go |
I really thought that I would at least get the structure together today. I could have done that if I hadn't go down the fancy joinery avenue. This will not only be a stronger table, it will also look nicer.
did one more |
I was surprised that the clock said it was past 1500. I hadn't intended to spend the day in the shop. I wanted to do this one last half lap before killing the lights.
for tomorrow |
I should be able to knock this out tomorrow and maybe plane the cherry on tuesday. The weather has been sunny all last week so now that I want to use the lunchbox planer the weather will go down the toilet.
accidental woodworker
PS - weather forecast is partly cloudy all week with rain for friday.
A perspective on Japanese architecture
“When not convenient to obtain ready-sawed lumber from the dealer, the carpenter can play sawyer, and with a saw two feet in length and often over one foot wide, he can easily rip an old water-soaked cedar log into boards and strips. Where Western men working in lumber think it necessary to season it as soon as possible, in Japan splendid cedar logs are kept anchored in large rafts along the rivers or in ponds for years. Thus the wood retains its natural colour and beauty – this none will doubt when examining the lovely interior woodwork of the high-class dwellings, planed to a fault, but never painted and rarely oiled.”
By Nippon’s Lotus Ponds; Pen Pictures of Real Japan, Matthias Klein pp.195-196 (1914)
Prototype cupboard is done.......
The actual pics to ooh and aah over it come later. I had to work on my laptop and the shop computer. Minor problems that involved rooting around and a bazillion clicks to fix. The good news is I think I'm done playing computer tech with both of them.
fixed |
The battery life on this computer sucks pond scum. I worked on getting it back online last night and that took about 20 minutes. My battery life went from 4+ hours at the start to 28 minutes when I was done fixing it.
Still clueless as to how this problem jumped up and slapped me up side my head. The first problem was I was off line? How? I bumped the laptop and moved it and that is when it went south. The second problem was the screen was too dark. Another who or what did it.
before moving time |
The big shop computer is moving here but before I can do that I have to run a plug here for it. For now the plan is to move all this crappola from here to the sharpening bench when that move happens.
rock solid |
The tile is firmly secured and it ain't going no where.
not sure |
I didn't think I had to remove the beading here but I did. There was no going back after I removed it where the latch was. Besides if I positioned the latch flush with the edge the two screws on the right would not have had sufficient meat to screw into.
first glamour pic |
My opinion is changing on the drawers. With the cupboard complete they don't look out of place. My wife really liked this. The gas meter guy went gaga over the dovetails I did on it (two days ago before it was finished). Turned out that he is a woodworker too and we got to shoot the woodworking breeze for a while.
kitchen cabinet ? |
This will be a good general purpose catch all for someone hopefully. I
offered it to my wife to give as a xmas present for her sister or her best
friend Margret. If not one of my sisters will get it.
right side same as the left side |
back |
It would have made for a stiffer, less prone to racking, if the back also extended to the bottom. But this was the largest piece of plywood I had and it doesn't matter that the drawers are open at the back. This will be against a wall and they won't be seen.
on line is working |
Wish I knew what caused these two headaches. Fixing the brightness was PITA. I had to slog through a bazillion pages before I fixed it. Ended up I had to do it through windows. Trying to brighten it with the laptop wasn't working.
wifi keyboard |
The keys on the laptop don't always work not matter how hard you depress or swear and threaten it. The FN key on the wifi wasn't working in conjunction with the up/down keys to brighten the screen. I eventually did it through windows.
Wood magazine USB stick |
All the Linux computers I have will display this but none will open it. I had emailed Wood magazine about a Linux compatible USB stick but I never got a reply.
nice touch |
Wood magazine sent me a wooden USB stick. The windows laptop opened it and I was able to surf to my hearts content. As far as I know, Wood doesn't offer an update USB (this is 5 years old) but it has been long while since I checked on that. So I went 0 for 5 on Linux reading this stick.
done |
Wiped it down with Feed 'n Wax and it made the lid slide in/out in a slippery manner. Almost too easy opening and closing it now.
at a crossroad |
Got all the bandings on and I noticed that I had some tear out from planing said bandings. Two of them are on the front and one on the left side. I tried to sand/feather them out but that failed. They are better but once the finish goes on they will pop.
Got the hinges installed with only two screws for each. I just wanted to check the alignment and the open/shut operation. Those were spot on and I think the hinges will be strong enough for this box. Of course if Magilla the Gorilla goes caveman it will fail. I will take the hinges off to sand the box some more and apply the shellac finish.
back to the shop |
While looking at this upstairs I noticed the finish on the frame looked like crap. (BTW I am not a good finisher or finish applier.) I sanded and scraped the finish off just the top of the frame. It looks better now sanded and freshly scraped. One coat on now and maybe more before I hit the rack tonight.
what caught my eye |
This is better now but still not perfect. The roughness of this area caught a bunch of steel wool fibers and there were streaks of black here. I couldn't remove all the roughness and I wasn't going to make a third frame.
5/4 cherry |
First run is go across the board at a 90 L to R. I start with the side with the hump facing up.
second run |
Going diagonally L to R at an angle.
3rd run |
Go from R to L at the opposite angle of run #2. What I look for when doing this is if I am getting a continuous shaving from one edge to the other. The fourth one is going across at 90.
twisted |
Step five is to check it for twist. It took 30 minutes to get the twist out of this side - I didn't plane the opposite face. I had to plane the twist in halves. If the board was any longer than this I would have done it in 3rds.
see sawed a wee bit |
From the far end to the middle initially was ok. Removing the twist from the middle to the near end made the middle to the far end wonky again. Finally got it after a couple of plane and checks.
second board |
Had some twist but not as much as the first one. I removing it in this board doing the half thing again. It didn't make me see saw between the halves.
pretty wood |
I didn't go nutso flattening and smoothing out either board. It just has to be flat and twist free to go through the lunchbox planer. I will evaluate these two and the other boards about planing them to thickness tomorrow.
I need a table/cart/thing to hold my planer in the driveway. I think the first thing on the hit parade tomorrow will be a run to Lowes to get some 2x4s to make a table/cart/thing for the planer. I have some 1/2" plywood left over from the roofing job I can double up for the top and a bottom shelf.
accidental woodworker
fret saw apple
prototype cupboard pt Penulitimate.......
I am not saying this lightly and I fully expect to be oohing and aahing over this cupboard tomorrow (today when you are reading this dribble). All that is left to do is to screw on the left hinge leaves and install the snap catch. I don't anticipate any problems which would include any brain farts or me-steaks on my part.
Other than the woodworking I got my feet wet again playing computer technician. I can't believe how much of this I have forgotten. I spent well over an hour looking up methods that immediately came to the front of the brain bucket when I saw the print. The shop computer that went belly up on me at the end of jan 2024 is now usable. I still have some configurations to do yet but the basics are done. Home page is fully set (3 tries), You Tube (2 tries) and Gmail (worked the first time) are working along with the wireless headphones. The rest of it I can do in dribs and dabs as I need them.
only got two last night |
I got one on before dinner and another one after dinner. After that I
promptly forgot about as I was absorbed with watching Elementary. I got 3
more on today and it is done.
had to try one set |
I came to the shop after shoving breakfast into the pie hole. I ended up putting shellac on the frame and gluing on one set of the cherry bandings. Planed the overhang as close as I dared to the plywood sides and sanded them flush with 180 grit. Happy with how they came out. The 45s are decent but they aren't anal retentive tight for my liking but good nonetheless.
the rest of the AM session |
Dug this out of the boneyard, cleared the bench were it used to reside, and plugged it in. Same old splash screen that I last remember seeing. But this time I had the magic wand - a USB stick with Linux Mint 22 - to do battle with.
hmmm...... |
The instructions are simple enough that even I understand them. However, a bazillion tries, two coffee breaks, and 20 minutes later, I still couldn't boot the computer into the BIOS settings.
ta da...... |
Then I remembered that this computer has a time sequence where it flashes the instructions for entering the BIOS for only 1 sec. Holding down and cycling through the F2 and F12 keys I finally got into to change the boot sequence from the hard drive to the USB key.
almost done |
I was able to select wiping the hard drive before loading Mint 22 which I selected. After than it took less the 15 minutes to be up and running. Much quicker and far easier than the Windows OS installs I recall doing.
I'm calling it a senior moment |
Being that I'll be punching the birthday clock 70 times this december I'm entitled. I think so, maybe. Anyways I messed up the password for the computer. I must have mistyped it somehow because nada. I tried every combination of double key strikes I could think off and still got denied. I reformatted the hard drive and blew in a 2nd Mint install. I didn't screw up the password on this one.
Got the former shop computer working and the laptop went south on me. For some reason I can't open up my homepage when I first long in. I can't load any internet URL at all - all gave me the finger. You know the one that says '....hmm we can't find that page....'. This is another mystery and I am clueless as to what caused it. I brought it upstairs to play with tonight after dinner. I need this Windows laptop for my Fine Woodworking, Popular Woodworking, and Wood magazine thumb drives. They would not open on any of my Linux computers but I haven't tried to do it on the new Mint 22 computer.
done |
The frame fits tight between the stiles and rails. I had to thump it down flat to the panel with my fist. I put one screw in each of the stiles and rails. That should be more than sufficient for keeping it in place.
glued and cooking |
I didn't forget to get a couple of coats of shellac on the latch side of the door where I sanded a slight back bevel. I will give the tile until tomorrow before I install the snap catch and hang it on the cupboard.
top lid bandings |
Squeezed in completing the bandings on the box. I am not overly thrilled with the miters but I can live with them. I have seen a lot of furniture, old and new, where the miters weren't tight and gap free. As long as I still see improvement over my last set of miters I'm ok.
one hour later |
I could see a teeny bit of movement in the tile when I pushed on it. I don't think I'll have any headaches or crying about this not sticking to the panel. I'll find out for sure in the AM.
accidental woodworker
Project Phoenix: I
This is a very different project to the usual. I’m starting something (not quite true I started it in 1977!) and I‘m not 100% sure what the outcome will be. Intriguing eh?
Finished the next box
a follow-up to my previous post here. A friend of Drew’s Langsner’s (& mine) was able to get over to NJ and collect those two chairs of his that were for sale. I was glad for the outcome – nice to know the chairs got saved.
I finished up the large strapwork box and posted it for sale on the substack blog – I’ll repeat that here for anyone who might be interested.
If my record-keeping is correct, it’s my 8th box this year…hopefully there’s a few more to come. I’m going to be out of the shop for half of November – so I don’t know how many more boxes I’ll get to. I have ideas for a few, but time might be short.
This is one of the “carved lid” strapwork boxes I’ve been doing now for a couple of years. Inspired by a photo I’ve seen of a strapwork-carved lid on a box in Devon England – but not a copy of that particular box. Nor does it duplicate any box I’ve made, I re-design each one of these. When I’m mapping out the pattern, I work on just 1/4 of it – because it’s designed from the middle left & right & up & down. Here’s 1/4 of the lid – that floral pattern on our bottom right corner is the middle of the lid.
dimensions are:
H: 8 3/4” W: 24” D: 14 1/2”
Price is $2,400 plus shipping in US. Shipping depends on distance from Massachusetts – ranges between $50-$200. If you would like this box, send me an email at PeterFollansbee7@gmail.com – If someone beats you to it, I can make another – just let me know. I shot way too many photos, here’s some of them…






——-
In the shop, I’m back to some chairmaking now while I process some more oak boards for carved work. In spare time here and there I’ve begun working on some extra sawn oak panels still hanging around, begging to be carved.
prototype cupboard pt XX........
All that is left is to finish the tile frame and attach the tile. I finished the woodworking on the frame and I just need to get some shellac on it. Once that is done I will be a frog hair from letting go with a lot of oohs and aahs.
not good |
The glue on the half laps has set up and the tile doesn't fit. Moot point as I have to make a new frame.
new frame parts |
The 2nd frame is 1/8" less in width then the first one. That will give me the wiggle room I need for expansion and contraction.
half laps by hand again |
removing the waste |
Yesterday I did the same as here but got to depth with a router. Today I did it all with the chisel.
flushing the frame |
The rails were slightly proud by about a strong 32nd. That isn't enough so I planed them flush.
before I forgot |
Scraped the area where the tile will be glued to the panel. Not sure if the construction adhesive will stick to either the shellac or the oil underneath it.
bigger than I wanted |
I have about 3/16" to split top and bottom here. I was shooting for a 1/8".
swung the other way |
This gap is the width of two 6" rules. It will have to do but I thought two rules would be an 1/8" thick.
wenge feet |
I am adding feet to the fancy box. I got the idea for this from Doug Stowe who has been releasing a lot of You Tube vids lately on box making.
too tall |
I can get two feet out of one set. These are 2 1/2" long and 1 1/8" wide.
separating the lid |
Did pretty good on sawing the lid off. I only had a couple wanderings off the line.
it worked |
I had taped the inside of the miters before I glued the box up. I usually scrape any glue off but this is plywood. Scraping works but it also produces a ton of tear out. It took a few to dig out the recalcitrant bits of blue tape.
2x2 foot flat reference surface |
I bought this a long time ago for doing hand plane rehabs. I glued a piece of 100 grit on it to flatten the sawn edges of the box. I tried 4 planes and none of them liked planing plywood.
left side gap |
There are a couple of hollows and bumps yet to sand flat.
the back |
So far this is the best of the 4.
right side |
This side and the front are where I wandered off the pencil line.
the front |
It still needs some more work. This dictated how the other sides went. I had to sand this edge lower than the other 3 and that took time and a lot of calories.
no mas |
It isn't perfect but my OCD isn't tripping into postal mode. This box doesn't like being sanded any more than it did being planed. I was expecting this to plane like a dream based on how the plies looked. Next time I'll drop down a grit and start with 80.
not consistent |
Thinking ahead to the banding - it will be easier to sand/plane than the plywood is proving to be. I'll have to think on that over night and decide what to do in the AM.
new toy |
It took four 'notify me when in stock' emails before I got one. It is a nice hammer and I think this one is going to be my all around bench hammer. The price was $133 which I think is high but it is a fine hammer. I trust the tools that LAP sells are quality and worth the $$$ charged. I have english hammers in this style but I never warmed up to using them. The brief time I used it this PM I liked it. It is similar looking to the english version but this is american made.
hmm.... |
Thinking ahead - does LAP sell just the wooden handle? I have broken several wooden handled hammers over the years. I have one waiting for me to fit a wooden handle to it (over a couple of years now). I got an email out to them asking this question.
8 feet |
I shot miters and glued them together with super glue and accelerator. I sawed them in half after giving the glue a chance to catch its breath.
over sized |
I sawed (and labeled) three sets of cherry bandings oversized. That will give some wiggle room when I fit and glue them in place. Haven't decided how that will be done yet. I have to be careful with how I do cleaning/flushing the overhang on the bandings due to the plywood. I think my best choice will be to sand them.
bottom bandings |
These were easy to whack out because I used butt joints. The feet will cover them at the corners.
sneak peek |
I wish I had enough wenge to do all the bandings but I don't. The cherry will do for the top of the box. It is a nice contrast with the dark wenge.
oops |
While sawing the 4 feet into 8 feet I noticed a me-steak. I had glued a block to reinforce the inside of the miter. With that there I can't glue the feet flush to the box. It was easy to pop them apart with a chisel.
I like this |
I scraped the glue off the miters and reglued them again sans the inside block. I'll do another one of those come time to glue the feet to the box.
incredibly awkward |
I didn't like the look of the feet straight up and down. I sawing a 45 on the bottom of the right one was easy peasy. The left one was a ROYAL PITA. Hard to saw it left handed (I'm right handed) and I ended up holding it with my left hand and sawing it with my right hand. Not without its own headaches to deal with. Glad that I only had four of them to do.
rearranging |
I had a larger ball peen where I am now trying to put a smaller 8oz ball peen hammer. The slot is too narrow and using a rasp to widen it didn't work. I took it down and used the bandsaw to widen it.
everyone is happy now |
I was looking around for a spot to hang this hammer close to the workbench but nada. I don't have enough wall space left for a postage stamp to fit in. This will do because how often do you need a hammer?
got ahead of myself |
I should have shot the chamfers before I glued the frame. The chisel worked and it didn't take much more time than using a plane.
one step close |
I am going to try and get 3 coats on this before I hit the rack tonight. We are going through a warm spell now and the shop is still in mid 60's temp wise.
accidental woodworker
Has Bad Axe Tool Works Fallen into Disarray Since the Sale?
Bad Axe Tool Works is an American company known for producing high-quality, hand-built saws for woodworkers. Founded by Mark Harrell, the company operates out of La Crosse, Wisconsin, and is particularly respected for its attention to detail, craftsmanship, and use of premium materials. They specialise in Western-style backsaws, dovetail saws, tenon saws, and other types of joinery and crosscut saws that are highly customisable. However, the company has faced scrutiny since Mark Harrell sold the company. Once celebrated for its craftsmanship, the brand now finds itself at a crossroads, with some long-time users expressing disappointment in the quality of products produced after the sale.
Mark Harrell sold Bad Axe Tool Works to his former employees. After the sale, Harrell moved on to focus on his own saw sharpening business, SawSharp, where he continues to offer saw restoration and sharpening seminars. Some users have expressed concerns that saws produced after the sale may not match the exceptional craftsmanship associated with the company’s earlier products.Often when a small, founder driven business sells, customer experience can suffer if the new owners don’t maintain the same level of engagement or attention to detail.
There are quality concerns, customer service issues, and others I will go into. Many woodworkers have reported inconsistencies in the saws, noting issues such as uneven sharpening and misaligned teeth. These problems have raised questions about the manufacturing processes employed since Harrell’s departure, as users recall the meticulous attention to detail that defined the brand under his management. In addition to product quality, customer service has emerged as a significant concern. Users have shared experiences of delayed responses and difficulties in order fulfilment, contrasting sharply with the responsive service provided during Harrell’s ownership. This decline in customer support has contributed to a growing sentiment of discontent among customers.
Specific issues mentioned in these reviews include complaints about the saws’ fit and finish, blade tension, and customer service, which some users feel have deteriorated since the transition. For example, some woodworking forums noted disappointment with misaligned saw nuts and a rougher-than-expected finish on the handles. Additionally, a few users reported experiencing delays in receiving their products, which they hadn’t faced when Mark was still in charge.
That being said, there are still customers who are satisfied with their saws, but the decline in the company’s reputation post-sale is apparent in some circles of the woodworking community. It seems that much of the frustration revolves around the saws not meeting the high standards set during Mark’s tenure.
Despite the negative feedback, there remain loyal advocates for Bad Axe tools. Some users still find satisfaction in specific models, suggesting that the brand retains the potential for excellence, but they advise caution for prospective buyers. Engaging with woodworking communities and seeking recent testimonials can provide valuable insights into current product performance.
In a fairly recent review video, which I will post, the links below show how badly the saw tracks new out of the box.


While some users continue to support the company, these negative reviews from long-standing customers suggest growing dissatisfaction with both the products and the post-sale support experience
The recent negative reviews I referenced were sourced primarily from woodworking communities and forums, as well as from discussions on tool review sites. Specific sources include:
- Fine Woodworking: This site featured comments and discussions from experienced woodworkers expressing disappointment with Bad Axe Tool Works’ products and customer service after the company changed ownership
2. Woodworking Forums: Various forums and discussion boards where users shared their personal experiences regarding diminished quality control and slower response times from the new management team
These sources reflect the community’s growing concerns and provide insights into specific issues like saw tooth alignment, inconsistent sharpening, and delays in customer support.
If any of this is true and accurate, then the way I see it, the company may have fallen into careless hands.
Whether Bad Axe Tool Works’ tools are still worth buying largely depends on personal preference and experiences shared by the woodworking community.
To finish off, I leave you a video of the grievance this chap has with his brand new bad axe saw, and he does a comparison between it and other select premium handsaws. It’s date: 22 Dec 2023
And a follow up dated 20 Jan 2024
Ultimately, if you’re considering purchasing a Bad Axe tool, it might be wise to check recent user reviews, engage with the woodworking community for updated feedback, or perhaps even try to find a used model that was produced before the sale for potentially higher quality. For more in-depth reviews and community discussions, you might check out sites like Fine Woodworking or woodworking forums.
prototype cupboard pt XIX........
Yippee, there is much dancing and rejoicing in the streets of Mudville. All of the tiles and hardware I had on order came in today. Two of them were supposedly delayed and coming on friday. It is looking like I'll be doing the check mark routine with the cupboard by the weekend? It is a nice feeling finally having everything I need to complete this cupboard and the upcoming cherry one.
it fits still |
It was binding a bit on the first 1/3 of the way in. Not as smooth as it was sans the shellac.
much better |
I scraped the top and bottom of the rabbits with the card scraper. I took one swipe off of the outside edge of both rabbits. You have to be cautious with the plane because if you 'take on more swipe.....' you end up with a lid that wobbles side to side pushing it in. I got a teeny bit of that but not a deal killer. The lid slides in/out easier than it did yesterday with no shellac.
stop and back up |
I forgot to do two things. I got shellac on the bottom and the inside and was doing this corner when I saw the me-steak. I didn't plug the hole in the tail and I didn't sand the putty in the half pin gap.
plugs done |
Used the off cuts from the banding for the box bottom for the plugs.
did better this time |
I got the barrel centered on the edge of the door. With the door positioned where it will live, the left leaf doesn't overhang the edge of the side.
looking good IMO |
I got one screw holding the left hinges leaves. I still have to take the door down to install the tile on it.
hitting |
The door opens but it is hitting here at the bottom. The gap looks consistent 360 but I have to fix this. The normal way to do it is to plane a back bevel on the edge. I don't have any meat to do that not to mention the nails in the cock beading holding it on the edge.
sanded a slight back bevel |
The back bevel wide part goes on the interior side with the thinner end on the face side. I only needed it here at the bottom couple of inches and I'll put on shellac to cover it up.
I have to be patient |
I was tempted to half lap the frame making it a 1/8" wider in both directions (before I got the tile). I tried this already and it bit me on the arse. And my wife says I have no patience at all.
worth a try |
To my thinking this through, removing one washer shouldn't fix it. I removed one washer and stuck in the slot and tightened it.
it worked |
I'm glad that I satisfied my curiosity. It was easy to tightened it and get to securely fix itself (no movement) in the miter slot. I didn't have to tighten it 1/2 of much as I did with the two washers. It has to be that with one less washer I was able to draw the screw upwards more to cause it to expand.
the fancy box |
One miter didn't close up seamlessly top to bottom. On the other hand the hide glue worked. This was the first time I've used hide glue on plywood miters.
hmm..... |
I don't have enough of the wenge to hide the plywood plies. I need 16 pieces - 8 for the top and its bottom and 8 more for the top and the bottom of the bottom of the box.
not perfect |
Getting consistent thicknesses on these is easier but it was frustrating resetting it for each piece. The differences in the thicknesses isn't huge and the worse of them is only about a frog hair and a half. No problems as I can sand or plane them flush and even after they are glued and cooked.
snap latch |
I thought I could have got away with removing part of the cock beading where the catch was but I don't think so. The main body of the catch doesn't need any relief but the 'catch' part on the right will.
6x6 tiles |
These came from the same seller in separate boxes. The tree tile on the left is the one I'm using on the prototype cupboard.
half laps |
I was going to do this on the tablesaw but ending up doing them by hand. I got annoyed with the tablesaw because it was being a PITA trying to set the blade height. No such headaches using a handsaw. These aren't true half laps because the stiles are as thick as the rails.
yikes |
Piece broke while I was removing the waste. I put the frame together and it was difficult to see this. On the door this missing piece would facing the door panel.
fixed |
I used super glue and accelerator to secure this. It won't be subject to any stress so the glue bond should last as long as the cupboard does.
snug fit |
It isn't tight but it ain't loose neither. I'm was not sure if tiles expand and contract like wood does. The frame is soft pine so if it does the pine should compress and allow some movement. According to google tiles do expand and contract so I'll have to think this one over. Thinking out loud, do tiles have a grain like wood where you can ignore one direction of movement?
go figure |
I couldn't fathom why the left end of my bench was so close to the lally column. I plane from the right side of the bench with all the force going from right to left. Over time the bench has crept to the left over 6". I am not a weakling but it took all I had to move the bench to the right about 4". I had to do with a R/L movement of the bench doing it from both ends. I need it to go more but I decided No Mas was a better choice. I will do a wee bit more each day until the bench is where I remember it being.
accidental woodworker
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