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General Woodworking
The Most Basic Woodworking of All: Cutting Firewood
The holiday season is a wonderful time to catch up with friends and family, who inevitably ask me what kind of woodworking I’ve been doing lately. With some chagrin, I have to say that I’ve been so busy that I’ve barely touched my hand planes and hand saws since this summer. I haven’t been doing any woodworking at all.
But that’s not entirely true. In fact, this fall I’ve been working with a lot of wood. It’s just that the wood I’ve been working won’t become fine furniture or even wooden spoons. I’ve been cutting firewood.

Earlier this fall, there was a tree service doing some work next door, and as they were trimming limbs from a mature maple tree, my wife wandered over to ask them if we could take some of the larger limbs for firewood. They were all too happy to let us take them.
Happy with what few logs we could fit into the back of our minivan, we were not prepared for what came next. A few hours later, the foreman knocked at our door and asked if we wanted more. They had taken down couple old honey locust trees, and he had a small trailer full of logs in our driveway. My wife kindly showed him where to pile them up in the back yard. Over the course of the day, they brought over even more wood, until they couldn’t fit any more logs into that corner of the yard.
In the weeks following, I worked away at the pile a little at a time: cutting logs to length here and splitting and stacking them there.

Seen from a distance, cutting and splitting firewood probably looks mind-numbingly repetitious. What could be simpler than standing a section of a log on end and bringing the business-end of an axe down hard on it, over and over again? Well, I think that in practice splitting wood requires the same kind of attention and intelligence that other, finer forms of woodworking require. Much of what I already know about wood and woodworking applies to splitting firewood.
It is rough work, to be sure: the kind of work that exemplifies what David Pye calls the “workmanship of risk,” in which the tool is guided solely by hand and eye. The outcome of each stroke of the tool is not predetermined, nor does it need to be. Cutting firewood is perhaps the roughest kind of woodworking there is. But it is real woodworking, for all that.

For example, all woodworking projects require you to acquire the right kind of stock for the project. Different applications require different lengths and widths, and often different species. As a rule, the denser the wood, the hotter and longer it will burn, so this honey locust should make for some fine midwinter fires. Just like in other woodworking applications, it is easiest to work with stock that is straight and free of knots. Of course that’s not usually the kind of wood one uses for firewood, but it’s nice when you can get it.
Some woods split easier than others. Oaks split very nicely, especially when green. Elm won’t split at all. But whatever species you’re working with, you get to know its characteristics. This honey locust can be tough to split at first, especially if the log is big. You can hardly drive in a splitting wedge. But I’ve learned that once you get the split going, it comes apart pretty quickly and cleanly.
And as always, the best kind of wood to work is whatever you got for free!

As with milling wood for furniture, so with cutting firewood: cut around the big knots! I like to isolate the big knots and the big crooks in very short sections, which will split more easily but may also have to be left thicker or not split at all. Not every workpiece is worth the trouble of salvaging.
When looking over your stock, you have to figure out what lengths you can get out of each piece–what’s too long and what’s too short. Measurements for firewood are approximate, of course, but every fireplace has a maximum length it will accept, so it’s good to know about how long to cut each section. For my fireplace, the ideal length is the distance from my elbow to my fingertips.
Cutting to the maximum allowable length saves time and effort. If, for instance, you have a 3′ log, you could cut it into three 12″ sections, which will split just fine. Or you could cut it into two 18″ sections, which will also split just fine, but with 2/3 the number of strokes. When you’re working your stock by hand, it’s important to economize where you can.

Using well-maintained tools makes all the difference. A sharp chainsaw will sail through even very tough wood. A dull cutting tool is useless–and dangerous. But there are different standards of sharpness for different tools. A splitting maul needs a slightly blunt edge to split the wood well. A rust-free surface helps the head cleave the wood cleanly and makes it less likely to stick. A couple steel wedges and a sledgehammer help with the more recalcitrant logs. I like a smaller, narrow wedge for starting splits and a thicker, taller one for opening them up.
Speaking of wedges, be sure your tool handles are fully secure in the heads of your maul and sledge. Dry weather, such as we get in the Midwest during winter, can cause heads to loosen. If the head wiggles at all, get another steel wedge and drive it into the top. Use a couple if you have to.
And don’t forget the most fundamental tool of all: the work surface. For furniture making, the work surface is probably a workbench. For splitting wood, it’s a chopping block. Like a good workbench, the block needs to be solid and heavy enough to stay put during use. It also needs to sit level so the workpiece doesn’t rock on top of it. And it needs to be the right height. About 12″ is the perfect height for me.
For my chopping block, I decided to use one of those really knotty sections that would be nearly impossible to split anyway.

As with all woodworking, proper technique is always superior to brute force. If the axe or maul won’t split the wood easily, don’t try to force it through. Use a wedge or two. Whichever tool you’re using, employ a good stance, and use your whole body to bring the maul or the sledge up and over in a smooth arc. But don’t bring it down too hard. Let the weight of the tool do most of the work on the way down.
Here’s one helpful tip: as you finish your swing, bend your knees a little. Dropping your whole body as the maul comes down adds just a little more force to the blow with minimal effort.
The best technique is also the safest technique. Do your splitting in an open space where you won’t catch your tools on things like branches, fences, or clothes lines. Keep both hands on the handle so you don’t mash your fingers. Don’t swing toward your shin or foot. It’s a good idea to wear leather gloves, as long as they give you a good grip on the tool handle. Eye protection isn’t a bad idea either. Expect bits of the wood to fly around as you strike it. Keep bystanders out of the line of your swing. And remember that a rolling log can hurt you just as seriously as any woodworking tool can.

Above all, be willing to take the time to do it right. Whether you’re applying finish to a Chippendale highboy or splitting up sections of oak branches for firewood, the project always repays patience and punishes haste.
For firewood, the most time-consuming part of the whole project isn’t cutting, splitting, or stacking. It’s waiting for it to season. Burning wet wood produces too much smoke that can be choking indoors, even with a good flue. It will take a year or more for this wood to be ready to burn, so I’m splitting up firewood for next year and probably the year to come. As with any woodworking project, it pays to think ahead.
fitting accessories done..........
At least it is done for the time being. All accessories have been quasi french fitted. I am thinking about buying the 1/2" drill guides but that is iffy as I can't think of an instance that I would ever use 1/2" dowels. On the other hand I am curious about the mitering plates. From what I saw on the site they aren't tied to a specific size dowel.
I put on almost 4 pounds over the thanksgiving holiday which wiped out my losses for the past 3 weeks. Overall it wasn't that bad because I thought I had gained 7 pounds considering what I had shoved in the pie hole from thursday to saturday. Back to being good tomorrow because today I ate the last piece of pumpkin pie that my wife made for me.
one coat of shellac |
Rubbed it down with 2-0 steel wool and realized that I hadn't checked the base for twist. Spoiler alert, there wasn't any.
came today |
I bought a trim router off Amazon and it came in today. I got a tool only and it has a straight and circular guide included. There is also a vacuum attachment all for $75 delivered.
6 router bits |
When I bought this I thought I was just getting the router and the straight guide. What I didn't do was check the collet size. This came from china so it could be metric - 6mm?
I got fooled |
I assumed (due to the DeWalt yellow color) that I was buying a DeWalt trim router but I was wrong. The router looks good and appears to be a notch above 1/2 way decent. What made me feel like crap was the lack of a battery - I didn't buy any with it.
oh what a relief |
I didn't need to take any tums because the DeWalt battery is a perfect fit. Another feature I didn't know about this was it is variable speed. I revved it up and down several times and the power felt smooth and constant. No glitches or hesitations ramping it up and down slowly or fast made no difference. This is a 1.5aH battery.
4aH battery |
The power ramped up and down just like it did with the 1.5aH battery. The larger capacity didn't feel any different but it should last a lot longer then the smaller capacity one. The important thing to me was the DeWalt batteries fit and work with this trim router. Which was why I bought a tool only.
why I bought it |
This is a 1/4" round nose router bit. Note to self - check the collet and determine the size of it.
where I wanted to use it |
I don't have a router table any more. I wanted to use the round nose bit to make the rounded bottom groove for the rod. I didn't want to wait for it to come in (supposed to have come on Dec 5th) so I plowed a square bottom groove.
found a hiccup |
The wing nut for the bolt won't thread on it. It looks like crap with the hole in it oval shaped and the threads aren't uniformly spaced. I put this in both a metric and imperial bolt/screw gauge and nada. It could be anything from a 1/4-20 or a M5 or M6. I got nothing definitive checking it. I brought the bolt to ACE and matched a wing nut to it.
found one |
Turns out that the carriage bolt is a coarse M5. I don't know how the metric screw sizes work but it fit and it works.
better |
Had enough thread to put a flat and lock washer under the wing nut. This gives me a warm and fuzzy that the fence won't move under use.
not bad for $70 |
This everything that came with the router. I don't know what the smaller wrench is for yet. But when in doubt, read the instruction manual. Which surprising is understandable considering it came from china.
cardboard boxes suck pond scum |
Of course this means I'll have to make a storage box for the router and all the trinkets that came with it.
my proposal |
I have wanted to make a slanted lid box for a while but haven't. This is the perfect opportunity to try it. I'm using the approximate dimensions of the cardboard box - I rounded up and added an inch or two here and there.
2 sides, a front and a back |
I was thinking of running this through the lunchbox planer but I might not. There is a slight cup in the boards and it would be easier to flatten and thickness them in the shop. Besides the arctic express is blowing through town and things are a wee bit on the chilly side.
6mm plywood |
I have a 6mm iron that matches this plywood. I plan to use it for the top and bottom of the router box.
hmm........ |
The offset from the front to the back block is what has been messing up my brain bucket synapses firing correctly. Decided to ignore it and just go for it.
cardboard mortises |
Made a dry run with cardboard to check it out. This one was easier to chop than the ones I did for the dowel pins.
not working for me |
This router wouldn't take a bite and make a shaving. Didn't think of it at the time but maybe the iron is dull and couldn't get that initial bite?
this one worked |
This is an odd looking router but I like it. It doesn't have a depth stop so you have to allow for that. It took a bite without hesitation and leveled both mortises without a whimper.
missed it |
Got the mortises chopped for the front and back but I didn't account for this. It is keeping the front and back from sitting down into their mortises.
it fits |
The block is bigger than using wood strips to capture the dowel max. There wasn't much wiggle room but I got lucky.
done |
I think I have more than enough room to the left of the dowel max for a couple of mitering plates. I think there are two of them but I will check on that.
glued and cooking |
Using the weight of the dowel max to 'clamp' the block while the glue sets.
3 coats of shellac |
It is starting to show some shine. I will put on at least one and possibly two more coats.
pit stop |
I cut my hair and I'm amazed at how much black I still have. My father was all gray by 69 - I wouldn't call it salt and pepper. His was gray with a few specks of black.
planing an edge |
I sawed the router box stock to rough width and planed the sawn edges smooth.
ready to go |
Tomorrow I'll start on flattening and thicknessing this. I'm shooting for a 5/8" thickness. That could go down depending upon how much I have to remove to plane the cup out.
accidental woodworker
fitting accessories pt 2..........
I really thought I would be done with this today but it ain't so boys and girls. I see sawed back and forth on how to do it with several of the ones I got done changing my mind at the last moment. I got everything done with the exception of the dowel max itself. Well maybe tomorrow I'll finally get the check mark. On a brighter note it is the season for xmas carols which is my favorite part of the xmas season.
before I forgot |
I drilled a hole for the 1/4" guide before I wandered off into La La Land with something else. I think there is also a 8mm drill guide for this jig. If there is and I buy it there is a spot for it on the right end of the dowel rod.
laid out |
I may have to redo this if there is and I buy the 8mm parts. For now this will hold the 1/4" and and 3/8" dowel spacers. FYI - I checked the Dowel Max site and they have a 10, 8, and 6mm dowel max. On the Imperial side they have 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4". Looks like I need to get the 1/2" parts to complete my Dowel Max experience.
1/4" almost |
This wasn't any where the nightmare that I thought it would be. I just had to flatten the bed for the 1/4" diameter part to complete that one.
done |
There is enough of the 5/8" top to grab and pull it out of the holder.
ditto for the 3/8" |
The only difficult part of this was chopping the mortise for the 5/8" diameter heads. They had to be deeper than the for the rod portion. It was a little tricky digging out the waste and flattening the bottom of it.
done |
They are both set deep enough that opening and closing the drawer did nothing to disturb them. Glued the block to the bottom with hide glue. I'll use hide glue for everything so I can reverse it if need be.
don't need this box |
I can't think of use for this now that I am not using it for the accessories. I'll put it in the black hole with all the other homeless boxes.
what's left |
This is where I had intended to use this box but I changed my mind. Instead I will put a bigger open box in here. It will hold the drill collars, allen wrenches, and an extra 1/4" drill guide bushing.
drill bit holders |
I slanted one end so I can tip the drill bit end down and have it clear the holder.
glued and cooking |
The 1/4" drill is a little hard to push down on the drill bit. My fingers are too fat and don't fit. I can tip it up if I use a pencil but I think that would annoy me having to do that. I might revisit the 1/4" holder if I think of something.
new box |
This is going to be a no lid box and it fills up the space. It is oversized but it affords me a place to put other things in it.
glued and cooking |
I didn't run a groove for a bottom. I was planning to glue it on the bottom of the box.
no bottom |
I had to satisfy my curiosity about no bottom on the box. Instead I could have glued it to the bottom of the drawer on the edges. Nixed that and I will glue the bottom on and then glue that to the drawer bottom.
glued, clamping, and cooking |
I let this set up in the clamps while I filled my face and went on my post lunch stroll.
last two |
The dowel max is kicking my butt trying to figure out how to secure it. I haven't been able to think of anything simple to do for it yet.
drill guide block |
I put a holder on both of the short sides of this drawer. I'm not sure if the 1/2" one is the same size as the 1/4" and 3/8" ones.
branded |
I like to brand my projects on a part of it that isn't removable. Like a drawer that can be replaced easily. This is the center stile of the back and a permanent part of the dresser.
new home |
Moving the manuals to the dowel drawer. The dividers are set below the top of the drawer - there is enough room for both manuals to sit on top of them.
no lid box |
I like the box and I'm sure it will become a catch all. There is only one itty bitty spot left for something below the dowel pin spacer storage block.
first coat of shellac |
I didn't shellac the inside of any of the drawers. Hide glue will not stick to shellac but I did shellac the rest of the drawer.
it fits |
The holder is a slip fit but it is tighter than I wanted it to be. It is made of plywood so I shouldn't have to worry about it moving much. I would have been happier with a few more frog hairs worth of wiggle room.
yikes.... |
It won't fit in the left hand holder. The top corner is too tight and I couldn't push it down into the holder at all.
it fits now |
I chiseled and sanded it until the drill block dropped into the holder. Loose fit but tighter than I like. I'll have to keep an eye on this. I might have to remove it anyway if I buy the 1/2" drill guide block and it doesn't fit.
the red headed, stuttering step child |
I got nothing so far. I played with it and moved it around and still nada. Maybe something will come to me in my dreams.
accessible |
What I like most about this storage is that I don't have to move around a bazillion things to get to the one that I want. So far nothing is obstructing anything else. I have the dowel max to fit somehow next. That will leave roughly half of the available real estate for a couple of accessory plates for mitering.
accidental woodworker
Teardrop Scraper
Keyaki Tabi-dansu
Earlier this year I introduced an upcoming tansu commission through a couple of posts about the overall scope, and joinery considerations for the series of cabinets. It’s been many month since those posts, but the past few weeks I’ve finally started work on the project. To quickly recap, I’ll be building three cabinets, one long… Read More »Keyaki Tabi-dansu
The post Keyaki Tabi-dansu appeared first on Big Sand Woodworking.
American Thanksgiving (2024)
fitting accessories..........
I am delaying doing the shellac on the dresser until I am done fitting the accessories for the dowel max. I felt like a girl trying to pick out which shoes to wear with how to do it. I must have changed my mind a bazillion times. By the time 1500 rolled around I only had 3 accessories done. I still have 7 more to go along with fitting out the dowel max itself. I was surprised by how little I accomplished in spite of time flying by today.
I squeezed in a walk today. It has been almost a week since I strolled after lunch. I could have walked yesterday but I didn't. I think I'm finally getting over all the bending down and kneeling I did to remove the (&@^$%)*%_)@Q^&%)@_Q)_U(# ivy. No trouble walking up the hills and when I came back my legs felt a bit sore but it slowly went away as I got back to working in the shop.
these are history |
The 3 marking gauges on the back rail I really liked a lot. They are deluxe marking gauges sold by Lee Valley. They don't work - the heads will not lock down and not move on the beam. There was no way after I had set them that they held it as I used them. I checked them today and they still don't lock down and I noticed another hiccup with them.
The head is too loose on the beam as in it is cocked. It isn't square to the beam so there is no way it can be accurate. It is shame because I went nutso buying them. I bought each individual one along with extra knives, points, and other doo dads. Totally useless now.
The gauges on the front rail I do use occasionally. I have other gauges in a holder attached to the back edge of my workbench that use mostly. The Drake marking gauges I use a lot and I'll have to find a new home for them. The gauges on the front rail I'll put in my grandson's toolchest, not too sure about the deluxe gauges new home.
Glen Drake wheel marking gauges |
The smaller gauges I use more than the big boy one. However, replacement wheels for it are hard to come by now. I got two replacement wheels from Glen Drake himself. Of the two one is toast already - the wheel is chipped in several spots.
new home |
I don't have to be concerned about the gas meter. I am getting a new gas line and the new meter will be on the outside of the house. This meter will be going bye-bye.
it will fit |
Spent a large part of the AM session making this box to hold the spacers. This was the 3rd option I came up with for them. The idea was make the box and then saw it in two. I could then use one half for this and the other for some other accessory.
changed my mind |
I had already shifted lanes on this before I even glued it up. Didn't make any sense to use this after I started to think about placing it in the drawer.
hmm....... |
I glued the dowel rod at the back. I can live with the empty space at both ends. The other accessories I spent what seemed liked hours arranging and moving around trying to make sense of the best placement for them.
this is done |
I glued the walls around the spacers so I wouldn't second guess myself about it again. I used hide glue and I will use that for the rest of the accessories too.
sigh |
This was working and I almost down to depth when this end suffered a blowout. This was going to be the holder for the 1/4" drill block spacer. This is going in front of the spacer block holder.
done |
This is the way I should have done this on the first go around. It was much easier chopping and routing this one to depth. No worries about not having enough meat at the ends to prevent blowing them out.
almost done |
Drilled a hole for the two screws that are needed to attach the spacer to the dowel max. I also chiseled a finger grabbie thing to help getting it out of the holder.
3 done, 7 to go |
As I was typing this I thought of a better spot to put the 1/4" dowel rod spacer then between the 1/4" and 3/8" metal dowels. I'm doing to drill a hole for it on one of the empty spots on either end of the dowel rod. That will free up some real estate on the drawer bottom. I might need that for any future accessory purchases.
blonde shellac |
I have a little less than 1/2 can left. That should be enough to get 4 coats on the dresser. I will take a good look at it later and I'll mix up a new batch if needed.
accidental woodworker
happy day after thanksgiving.......
I wasn't thinking about the blog being a day behind the rest of the world. I hope everyone had an enjoyable turkey day and no weird relatives showed up. This is a link to Abraham Lincoln's Thanksgiving Proclamation here. Lincoln is hands down my favorite present and this proclamation is only a couple of paragraphs. For a self taught man his grasp of the english language was remarkable. It changed my view and understanding of what turkey day is all about.
hmm...... |
I was the cook today so almost zero time in the shop. I kind of got pulled in a couple of different directions not finishing anything. Started playing around with the storage of the dowel max and its accessories. The 3/8" dowels I had were a wee bit too fat for the dowel max spacers. Chucked them in a drill and ran sand paper up/down it until it was a slip fit. I have a few thoughts on how to use the dowels to hold the spacers that I'll flesh out later.
lamb's tongue spokeshave screws |
These threads are in real sad shape. The points of the threads are rounded over and especially so at the bottom lead in. I soaked them in Simple Green over night to clean out the crud in the threads. For the little wear on the spokeshave I'm surprised by how bad the screws are.
the sibling |
The lead in thread at the bottom is rounded over is almost occluding the first lead in thread. The internal threading on the spokeshave doesn't look bad but it is hard to get a good look see at them.
6mm is not a 1/4" |
I thought 6mm was wider than a 1/4" but it ain't boys and girls. I had to open up the groove with my Lie Nielsen 98 and 99 side rabbet planes. They aren't something I use a lot but at the time they were something I had to have.
LN 98 side rabbet plane |
These are tricky to use and even trickier to set up. At least for me they are but that could just be not using them enough. I got the groove opened up and the rod is a slip fit now.
done? |
Not sure I'm liking this. It is the empty 1/4" grooves on either end that bug me but I do like that it extends across the whole width.
not needed |
Changed my mind on using the dowels. They just add another step to the storage of them that isn't necessary. A simple, small, half height box will suffice for these.
the rest of the goodies |
These are the remainder of the accessories to fit out in the top drawer.
it is gone |
Changed my mind on keeping the other doweling jig in here. There are some dowel max 45 mitering accessories that I think I would like to get that are currently out of stock. Doesn't this guy know about black friday?
Tomorrow I'll start on the shellac and I should be able to put a dent in it. I also figured out where to keep the dresser. I'm losing an older storage rack for marking gauges but having a home for the dresser is more important to me. Besides I don't use the marking gauges stowed there.
accidental woodworker
Dowel Max storage dresser done........
Well it is almost done. All the woodworking is done but I still have to apply the finish and make some holding things for the Dowel Max and its accessories. Overall I'm happy with how it turned out. The hardest part of the build is finding a home for it somewhere in the shop.
dust shield |
I am only putting a dust shield on the bottom of the dresser. I never intended to put them between the drawers.
glued and cooking |
Just gluing it, no screws. Glued it to the bearers only.
can you see it? |
The center stile wasn't supposed to be this wide. It is because I didn't rip it to width before I did the grooves in it. It turned out better than I expected it. The width of it is almost a dead on match with the panels. It looks symmetric to the eye though.
2 foot view |
I tried to match the color and I think I did good on that. It doesn't jump out at you and slap you upside the head.
last drawer |
Decided to put the knobs on the drawers. It really doesn't make any difference whether you apply the finish with them on or off.
crest rail |
Glued and cooking. There wasn't any way to add screws so glue will have to do.
remember this? |
I didn't know that I had fitted the door already. I checked and I have the latch, the bin pulls, and the hinges for this. I'll jump back to this next week maybe?
#3 drill |
I thought I might have been able to drill this out for a 1/4-20 but it ain't happening. The #3 drill for a 1/4-20 tap was too small for the existing hole. I'll have to do some research for the drill size for a 5/16 screw as that is next size up (I think).
worth the trip |
Right after lunch I went to Home Depot on Rte 2. That turned out to be a drive into hell and back. A 20-25 minute normal drive took an hour and 15 minutes. Traffic on Rte 2 was horrendous and I didn't hit one light change going or coming. It was still worth it because I got four 4 foot lengths of 3/8" quarter round (thought the quarter round was smaller?) and the same in cove moldings. The quarter round is dead on even with the bottom rail. I wanted to use this molding but I used the cove molding instead.
cove molding |
This one is few frog hairs shy of the bottom rail.
two cove moldings |
The bigger one at the back comes from Lowes and the smaller one in the front I got from Home Depot.
secured |
Finally got the carcass screwed to the base. The first attempt didn't work because one corner wasn't inset and I didn't catch it. The 2nd attempt I had it seated but I didn't have the back up tight against the base. I had to unscrew it and drill new holes for it. The 3rd attempt was the charm, again.
two glues |
Used yellow and super glue to attach the moldings. I did the front and sides first. The back long molding was done last.
back molding |
I had to do this twice. The first one, while I thought it was long, turned out to be a 1/4" shy. Got it glued and cooking with the 2nd one.
not perfect |
The moldings appear to be stuck ok but the miters were slightly open to varying degrees. On the dry fit the miters closed up nicely but with the glue they decided to go nutso on me. I filled in the gaps with pine putty.
first pretty shot |
No finish on it so this doesn't count as a glamour shot.
side pretty shot |
I can't wait to see how the shellac makes this pop.
back pretty shot |
I like this back assembly a lot. I think it looks better than either a plywood or multiple board back. I should be able to do it better on my next one now that I have one under my belt.
good feeling |
The dowel max still fits. I was sure that it would but it is nice to have confirmation.
top drawer |
The manuals and the accessories will be kept here.
bottom drawer |
I forgot that I have one more woodworking step. I have to make a 4 compartment divider for the dowels.
hmm..... |
The doweling jig on the left I think is a General but I'm not sure. I bought this when I was 21 or 22. I bought other doweling jigs but this is the only one I held on to. Thinking of keeping the two of them in this drawer. If not the only occupant will be the dowel max.
too much |
Only the middle and bottom drawer are inserted this amount. If the top drawer had been the same I would have left it as I like the inserted look. I had to come up with a way to stop the drawers flush with the front.
the drawer stop(s) |
I used screws to be the depth stop - 3 of them - one at each end and one in the middle that will stop against the back center stile.
almost perfect |
I didn't have to adjust the screws for the bottom drawer.
done |
I had to fuss a bit with the middle and top drawer. All 3 drawers are now flush with the front.
dowel dividers |
I used offcut cherry scraps from the panels for the cherry cupboard.
sigh |
Got the height of the half lap correct but I missed the notch on the long one by almost an 1/8".
secured with super glue |
I used super glue on the bottom of the dividers and I then wicked it into the ends on both the long and short dividers.
half of the total load out |
Both of these dowels are 1 1/2" long and the 2" long dowels are out of stock. They didn't give a time for them to be back in stock.
a key? |
I planed a piece of 1/8" thick plywood until it fit in the space. I think if I hadn't done this the dividers might have broken their bond.
it ain't coming loose |
I wicked super glue into every edge that I could on the key. I don't think the dividers will loosen. They aren't or shouldn't be subjected any stresses and certainly not from the dowels in each compartment.
accidental woodworker
Dowel Max storage dresser pt 7........
I spoke too soon yesterday. Today is when all the muscles I strained are saying hello. It was a miserable day whenever I walked and moved around. My thighs and calves were screaming at me and bending over was impossible. Of course today I also had the dropsies. Bending over has never been easy the older I get but today I dreaded it. The last time I dropped something I said the the hell with it and killed the lights. Even sitting didn't feel too good but it felt better than walking up stairs or trying to pick something off the deck.
this will work |
I glued on strips with super glue and accelerator.
done |
This doesn't look that terrible. I had to plane it a couple of times to get dialed in. This is on the back and won't be visible. It fixed the immediate problem and you have to look twice to notice it.
panels fitted |
Changed my mind on how I am going to secure the panel assembly. I glued all the tenons and I will glue the assembly in the rabbets on the back of the dresser.
glued and cooking |
Took a break here and let this set up for a while. FYI - it sucks to get old.
hmm..... |
Out of the clamps and I got a snug fit. However, the top left corner has a tapered gap that runs for about 3-4". I had to fix this because it will be visible. I planed the top right end until it was parallel to the top edge.
yikes |
The bottom was a little short of the bottom and I knew that. This is from me planing the top edge.
not a problem |
Even without the molding, the gap at the bottom is hidden. The dresser sits down far enough into the base to cover the gap.
this hurt |
Glued and clamped the back assembly in place. Picking it up and placing against the sharpening bench was something I don't want to do again. I felt like a little girl doing this one simple task. It is the fault of that _)@*&%^)&@%_()@_%(&*$@!_+) ivy.
gaps filled |
There were some minute gaps around the tails and pin sockets that I filled in with super glue and cherry sawdust. I don't think anyone else would have noticed them but my nemesis is gaps.
did the same here |
I did the same super glue and cherry sawdust on the tails here at the top and the bottom (last week). It is difficult to see that was done and I'm a bit anxious to see how it will look with shellac.
holes for the knobs |
I like to set my knobs on a ratio of 5. I step off 5 from one end to the other. I then step in one from each end and that is where I drill the hole for the knob. I stepped off on the bottom so I wouldn't leave pin holes in the drawer face.
finding the center |
I use dividers to find the center of the drawer front.
just shy |
I like to place my knobs just below the center of the height. Using dividers makes it super easy and almost eliminates the possibility of making a measuring me-steak.
knobs prepped |
I don't just glue my knobs in a drilled hole. Firstly the tenon never is a consistent diameter and is usually too loose or too tight for a 3/8" hole - the supposed diameter of the tenons. I drill a small hole near the base and a saw kerf for a wedge.
new to me |
This is a Preston lambs tongue spokeshave. I got it from Timeless Tools and Treasures. I got to look over their offerings a day late and I couldn't believe that no one else had snapped this up.
sole |
This doesn't appear to have that much mileage on it. The soles are in great condition. Nice looking mirror images of a lambs tongue profile.
some life left in them |
The right iron has been used a lot more than the left one. Its profile doesn't match well on the flat or the rounded parts.
??????? |
The threads on both of the screws are munged up a bit. They definitely need to have the threads chased. I couldn't get a match with my imperial or metric screw pitch gauges. This Whitworth gauge seems to be a match but I'm clueless on them. This thread is close to a 7-32 and I might rethread the spokeshave and the screws to it. Depends on whether or not I can sort this out as is.
I had to try it |
The irons are a match for the sole. The right one is better the left one (as you look at it). I couldn't get anything to show other than initially getting some shavings and then clogging the mouth shut. It is going to take a few laps around the pond to figure this out. The first thing will be to sharpen the irons because they are dull.
5/8 on the left underside |
I assume this is the size (width) of the lambs tongue.
the other handle |
Using this type of spokeshave is something that I haven't seen written about or demonstrated anywhere. It is going to be a learn as I go to get a lambs tongue on a board. Which face would that be?
poplar |
I don't like using pine to make wedges because I think it is too soft. The knobs are maple and the wedges will be poplar.
done |
I wasn't going to make the wedges today but I stayed in the shop long enough to knock them out. I am not sure if I'll do the knobs now or wait until after the finish is on. Either way it was time to kill the lights for the day. And I won't be returning until the AM.
accidental woodworker
Project Phoenix: III
With the body back together, the next step is to fully bind the body and also prepare a new neck blank.
Cheers Gary
Dowel Max storage dresser pt 6........
I am a little sore now but it isn't much different than when I rolled out of the rack. I was expecting to be hobbled and dreading even blinking my eyes. I got a few check marks done today. 75% of the ivy is gone, the fence is installed, the dresser base is done, and I got the back done (well almost done). Through it all nothing protested although when I stopped for a few I could feel the aches and soreness. Overall it isn't too bad considering I'm less than month away from turning 70.
one of two gaps |
Planed the base and found two gaps. Annoying and I could put them at the back but I'm a stubborn SOB about some things and gaps are at the head of the list.
2nd one |
Not as bad but this would pop once the shellac goes on. Two choices for addressing it are to put splines in them or fill them with putty. I chose putty because the pine putty is an excellent match to this pine.
shaker knobs win |
Decided to use up the knobs I have. I had 7 of these and I only need 6. I wanted to go a size up from these for the two wider drawers but I only had two.
setting the base molding |
The bottom rail is 5/8" thick and this molding back is 3/8" tall. I want a 1/8" margin between the molding and the top of the bottom rail.
nope |
I would have liked to put this molding under the top too but I can't. There isn't a rail there so I could only put it on the sides and back. And that would look goofy.
hmm...... |
Houston we have a problem. I thought I had this figured but it is off. The molding is higher than the bottom rail. On to the 2nd try.
the 3rd attempt |
The 2nd one came out even and the 3rd one was the charm. Got my 1/8" margin then.
75% done |
I got the front sides and front molding miters done. I can't do the back molding until I get the back panel assembly installed.
shooting the miters |
This shooting board is excellent for shooting small miters and doing end squaring.
bit of a void |
Left the back miters and the back molding miters undone. Only the bottom rail on the back matters because the molding will be attached to it. I nailed and glued the bearers to the base. I will screw the bottom rails of the carcass to them. This will allow for future removal for whatever reason.
getting close |
Stopped here to make a road trip to Lowes. I bought a 8 foot 1x4 to give up the parts for the back panel assembly.
only need half of this |
This board was out in the aisle leaning against a pole. It is almost clear for the entire length. There were two knots that I easily worked around.
done |
According the fence guy cedar fencing will soon be a thing of the past. He told my wife that within a couple of years it will no longer be available. I wanted to paint/stain this but my wife doesn't want to. One thing I will do is dig out the bottom of the fence. It is touching/buried in the dirt on most of it. Cedar or not, having the fence in direct contact with the ground will accelerate rot.
wee bit left |
It is suppose to rain tomorrow and I'm going to try and dig up the ivy on this part of the fence line.
how long? |
I cleaned this up of ivy a few years ago and I don't think I did that as good as I did it this time. The neighbor behind me told that RV bleach cleaner kills this ivy. I haven't been able to find any of it yet. I'll try the RV dealer on Rte 2 and check what they have. I don't want to have to dig this _@&%*&$@(*$)@(_)%*#_Q&^% crap up again.
stiles and rails |
I can get two stiles and rails from one length of these boards.
no twist |
Not only was it clear stock, all 3 were also twist free.
thicknessing is next |
The back rabbet on the dresser is a few frog hairs over a 1/2". I am going to thickness the stock to 9/16" and then plane it flush.
chamfered the four sides |
I have settled into thicknessing stock this way. The chamfer ends at the knife line and that is my cue that I am at the thickness.
full width and length |
I used the #6 to remove the bulk of the waste. I follow that up with the #7 and when I get full width and length shavings I start eyeballing the knife lines.
at depth indicator |
I use a wheel marking gauge to knife the lines. That allows this sliver to come off as I plane down to depth.
one done two to go |
It took me about 30 minutes to thickness the 3 boards. I would still be doing them if I used the lunch box planer.
#6 |
This is the only plane that I have a cambered iron on. It will hog off a lot wood in a short time. The shavings will curl out of the mouth and curl around my left arm.
last one |
All three were close in thickness. I didn't go nutso trying to get them all within +/- 1 atom of thickness.
grooves done, tenons were next |
I sawed the shoulders and split off the tenons with a chisel. I got lucky that none the splitting ran into the center. All of them split off clean and at 90.
this puzzles me |
I don't understand how the center stile is short. I cut all three of the stiles to length on my miter gauge on the tablesaw. I am going to fill the gap in. I will glue wood to the bottom rail and plane it to fill the gap in. I don't want to make another center stile.
needs panels |
The plan is to glue the top rail and the side stiles. I will also glue the top of the center stile in the top rail. The bottom rail will be nailed only (no glue) to the bottom carcass rail. This will facilitate any repairs/changes in the future.
AT Restorations is an Estonian woodworker (You Tube) and I see this detail a lot on the furniture he restores. The backs are in this style with the exception there is no bottom rail. The panels are inserted and nailed at the bottom. Clean, simple, and efficient.
All the drawers I have seen have two wide side slips. The bottom panel is inserted into grooves in the side slips and a groove plowed into the back of the front. What has me scratching my butt is how wide the slips are. They are all about 1 1/2" (to my eye) wide. Interesting watching him repair and restore hanging cabinets, coffee grinders, chairs, linen presses, and dressers. He does a lot of art deco from the 20th century furniture too. It is interesting to me seeing the construction details and his technique for restoring it.
accidental woodworker
Dowel Max storage dresser pt 5........
Another short day in the shop again. The fence company is coming back on monday to put up the fence. They got the poles set and then it rained for 2 days. They couldn't work and I couldn't clean up the fence line of the ivy. But that is what I squeezed in today. Spent the morning in the shop and the afternoon pulling up ivy. I'm sore now as I'm typing this and I'm sure a lot of muscles are going to be saying hello to me monday morning.
ready for glue up |
I cleaned up the pin sockets and the tails seated much better. I almost forgot to do the cutout base before I glued it.
one inch holes |
Doing a simple cutout on the base. One inch drill leaves me with 1/2". Glued the base and set it aside to cook.
first drawer |
I got a good bond - there are no gaps anywhere on the outside edges. It was chore taking off all the clamps and stowing them. It has been a long time since I used so many.
trimming the ends |
I didn't leave much overhang - maybe a 16th. So far it hasn't bit me on the arse.
good left turn |
I'm glad that I nixed using oak for the drawer fronts. This way now the entire build will be done with pine (except for the plywood drawer bottoms).
hump |
This surprised me because if anything I was expecting the front to be tapered. The hump was also only in this one spot. Used the #3 plane and it took a few runs before I was flat and straight end to end.
middle drawer |
This drawer front shifted slightly and there is this hiccup on the right top. I can't see it all standing a couple of feet away from it. On the fence whether to fix it or just leave it.
done |
There is some color and grain that takes this from bland to wanting to take a second look see.
fence line |
It will be nice having the fence again. Our house sits higher than the two neighboring houses behind us. There are no secrets if the blinds are left open. We went with a 8' high stockade fence.
)(&$(@^$)@$( ivy |
I hate ivy with a passion that is border line psychotic. I gave it my best shot cleaning up as much of it as I could.
3 1/2 hours later |
This is as far as I got before I ran out of gas. The ivy came out from the wall on the right about 5-6 feet into my yard. I removed from the picket fence to in between the tree stumps.
the other half |
This half is in good shape. The neighbor to the left hates the ivy as much as I do. She trims it all the time and it shows. I will try to get back this early in the morning and finish up the ivy patch around the tree stump.
I made a run to Lowes and they didn't have any small quarter round molding. I must have seen it at Home Depot. I bought 16' (only comes in 8' lengths) of a small molding that I'll use instead. I wanted to get a pine board while I was there and I forgot it. I need that to make the frame for the dowel max dresser. Spoiler alert, the dresser won't be done on monday.
accidental woodworker
Elm on my mind
We've been mostly saving old buildings recently. More of that later. We've had a storm raging here for the past two days, and I've been hunkered down, reading about Elm Timber Framing. We have several Elm stumps in the back hedge around 12" diameter. The previous owner had cut them off at 3' high, so they were neither coppiced or pollarded. They have suckered and new saplings are growing up and as we also have ash, that so far has not succumbed to the dieback, I want to help the ash, so I have cut the elm stumps off to the ground, as they will probably sprout again, and who knows maybe one day soon Dutch Elm Disease will have run it's course, and they might make it to maturity.
I have never made anything from elm, so this afternoon I started roughing out a bowl in the covered way. It is far from green now, but I had no problem, making progress with my Dave Budd bowl adze. It never seems to go blunt!
The book by Robert Somerville is a very interesting read.
The most striking thing he introduces is the variety in appearance of Elm trees. I used to live in Brighton, which is a haven for the Elm, but it seems that there may be many more around than the public perception acknowledges, according to Robert. I know of two giants locally, but maybe I'm not looking closely enough, because I mainly have eyes for oak.
Elm is known for it's interlocking grain; the reason it was used for the nave, or the hub of a wooden wheel. I remember visiting Mike Rowland carriage makers maybe 15 years back. They had a stack of nave sized chunks of elm on the outside of their workshop, seasoning. This stump, though, is perfectly straight grained, or maybe I might not have been able to cleave it.
Dowel Max storage dresser pt 4........
Ran head long into FUBAR land this AM. I was working on the back panel assembly for the dresser and things went south on the express. I got a nice pile of kindling to show for my efforts. I'll attack it again tomorrow. Hopefully with better results.
first of two trips |
Came down to the shop after dinner last night and got the front slip glued and cooking.
2nd trip |
Got the side slips cooking. This was it for shop time today.
bottom plywood stock |
I sawed out the bottom for the last drawer in the AM.
laid out the bottom |
I sawed this oversized so I could saw off the tear out and fuzzies on the tablesaw.
done |
Bottom installed and 3 corners fit and this one is too snug.
almost |
This drawer was being stubborn and it took a long time for me to fit. In spite of the time it took and me losing my patience with it, I got it to fit as good as the ones above it.
done |
This look isn't that bad on the eyes. The middle drawer on the left has a gap in the tails that I don't like. I am still going to apply veneer over the drawer fronts so the gap will never be seen.
cleaning the drawer fronts |
No hiccups with this but one drawer did have some squirrely grain. I got a small spot of tear out but nothing to write home about.
last one |
All of the tails were slightly proud and I find it easier to flush them with a chisel rather then use a plane. Little to no chance of breaking out the grain with a chisel.
sneak peek |
I have been thinking on and off on what to do about knobs/handles for the drawers. I have some shaker knobs but Paul Sellers has posted a couple of times about making your own vice store bought. I don't like the handles he did but I do like the idea of making them with scraps. I have time to muse more on this.
nope |
The big board doesn't sport enough real estate to give up the stiles and rails for the back panel assembly. The other short pieces are of varying thicknesses and would work - I would have to plane them to thickness. However, the majority of them are too short in the length. Not enough for what I need.
stiles and rails |
I don't have anymore 1/2" pine but I have 3/4". I planed a reference face and sawed them to a 1/2" thick on the bandsaw.
2 rails and 3 stiles |
I used a 1/2" tongue and groove plane to form the tenons and the grooves on the stiles and rails.
ugly looking |
The grooves weren't a problem but the tenons were. The shoulders on all the tenons looked as bad or worse than this one. On the bright side on the coin, the tenons fit in the grooves. This is toast and not usable.
salvageable |
The rails I could reuse along with the center stile because I didn't make tenons on it. I made two more stiles and tried to plow a groove in them. That didn't work out in my favor. I used the originals to set up for the new stiles. I lost track of what was the reference face and pow, liquid fecal matter up to my armpits. 2nd attempt was a bust and I ended up with a small pile of kindling.
drawer fronts |
Decided against the oak veneer for the drawer fronts and I bandsawed off two pieces for the middle and bottom drawers. Initially the first one looked good and I did the second one.
yikes |
I wasn't making clapboards for a doll house. The thin end of the taper is still more the thick enough to use for the drawer.
better |
I planed the thick end of the taper trying to even it out with the thinner end. I didn't go nutso on it because I'll still need to plane it after it has been glued to the drawer front.
top drawer first |
Used bessey clamps on the ends because the veneer is being glued to the end grain of the dovetails. I wanted to get maximum pressure to get as good of a glue bond on the small long grain areas there as I could.
top drawer |
I'll let it cook until tomorrow.
the other two |
Ditto for these. I put the one on the bench on the deck on scraps of plywood. Run out of besseys for this. One of them wouldn't cooperate and it is toast. I think besseys have a lifetime warranty or guarantee?
making the base |
Dovetails in the short sides and pins on the long front and back.
done |
I plan on doing a cutout but that will be done tomorrow. Dry fit is good and checking the fit of the dresser inside of it was in the batters circle.
it fits |
It isn't snug nor is it a slip fit. I purposely made the base ID slightly bigger than the OD of the dresser.
the gap |
The dresser is tight against the back and the left side. There will be less than a 32nd if I equidistant the dresser and the base.
cove molding |
I don't like the size of this molding so I'll be making a road trip to Lowes in the AM. I think they had small quarter round moldings that would look good and cover any gaps.
accidental woodworker
Winter
Progress on the End Table
Dowel Max storage dresser pt 3........
Hit a speed bump today but it was still a productive one. I ran out of my heart meds - I thought had another bottle but it was vitamin D. So that necessitated a road trip to the VA to get it refilled. Traffic was horrendous in Olneyville Square. It took four light changes before I got through the intersection. The pharmacy wasn't packed at all and I was in and out in less than 30 minutes.
In spite of this I managed to get most of what I wanted to accomplish today done. Two drawers are fitted and the 3rd one is cooking as I type this. I was hoping to get #3 fitted today too but that will come tomorrow. I might be done with the woodworking on this by monday.
fitting the first drawer |
I don't take anything off the bottom. I only plane the sides and the top edges to fit the drawer. The back doesn't need any love but I will plane it smooth and flush the dovetails. Step one is checking the fit of the drawer at the corners, front and back.
still learning |
As I planed the sides I checked it for square off the bottom edges. The bottom is my reference for everything I do to fit the drawer. The sides were tapered but now both are square to the bottom (and the top too).
getting closer |
The drawer was binding before it hit the clamp. I'm resisting the urge to 'take one more swipe.....'. Instead I'm taking no more than 3 and checking my progress. The better I get the fit of the drawer, the better it will act going in/out. I'm not shooting for a piston fit but a drawer that slides in and out easily with an absolute minimum of side to side play.
done |
The top to bottom is ok and there is a consistent gap at the top. The side to side is a just shy of snug but I'm leaving it as is. It slides in and out but it did bind and hang up if I pushed it in with anything going in off 90.
quickie check |
The middle drawer barely fits in the opening at the four corners and not at all R/L. I will get the bottom and the slips installed first before I doing any fitting of it.
drawer slips |
Using this miter shooting board is a better choice over the donkey ear jig.
what a joy |
This gadget is worth triple its weight in gold and diamonds IMO. It is an absolute joy to use. No more cramped fingers and no more pinching them in between the plane and the jig. The biggest asset is the the improvement in pushing the plane through the stock. Before I use it for the cherry flat moldings I'm going to sharpen and hone the iron.
Off to the VA |
Got the bottom slip glued and cooking. It was ready for the sides when I got back from there. I left at 0910 thinking I would be avoiding the school and rush traffic but I was wrong. I think I got stuck in the residual of all the ones running late.
back home |
Stepped down whereas I normally do it so the slips are flush.
why it ain't so |
The top of the bottom groove (in the pic) should be flush with the bottom edge of the back. If that were so, the bottom of the slip would be flush with the bottom edge of the side. If I had made it flush there would have been an approximate gap of 1/4" between the bottom and the bottom edge of the back.
side slips cooking |
I use small scraps of the bottom to keep the sides aligned with the bottom slip.
figured it out |
If I didn't figure it out at least this worked. That half pin on the right side is what screwed around with my brain synapses. I thought about this last night and I doodled with a piece of paper working it out. Before I did this I laid it out on scrap to make sure I was on the right road and not another one taking me into La La Land. Step one was to treat the half pin just like I would on through dovetails. Step off to the right until I got to the other side.
step two - go from left to right |
I now have a centered full pin between a half pin on the left and another 'half pin' on the right that has some wood to its right instead of nothing. It was that extra wood that was wrecking havoc with me.
lunch time |
Got the tails chopped and cleaned up and the pins laid out. I went to lunch with my wife and I got back to this a couple of hours later.
almost done |
Used this chisel to chop some of the dovetails on the drawers and it split again with 3 pins left to chop. How well, it held up better than I expected it to and this split isn't as bad as the first one. I will try epoxy on the 2nd glue up.
ready for the dry fit |
Got the inside faces planed smooth and the pencil marks erased with alcohol.
done |
Dry fit was uneventful so I glued it up. No need for clamps as the dovetails were on the snug side. Checked the diagonals dead on and set it aside to cook.
middle drawer |
First check again is the corners. The two back ones fit but on the snug side with the front not fitting without some hand taps. The R/L was off by a strong 16th.
step two |
Check the reference bottom isn't twisted. (it wasn't)
flush the corners and plane the top edges |
I planed the top edges in rounds of 3 - start at one corner and go around 3 times stopping where I started. Check the fit at all four corners. Repeat until it does. For me this took 5 tries.
snug |
The other 3 corners are a slip fit and this one is snug. Instead of going around the top 360 I planed only this corner three times. I then did two complete 360 planing runs around the top.
knocking the back down |
Planed a chamfer at the back of the bottom to help the drawer go over the back rail.
better |
This corner was no longer snug but it wasn't fitting as easily as the other 3 corners. Two more planing runs and it was fitting like its siblings did.
side to side is step 3 |
This clamping looks like overkill but it isn't. If the 3 foot clamp is absent the drawer back end would tilt up and go forward as I planed. Right around the 1/2 point the plane would nose dive and the back end of the drawer would tip up and go forward. Incredibly annoying. I had to take a lighter shaving with the plane and go slower but this set up worked.
about a 1/3 of the way |
It is very easy for me to go from it binding to it shooting out the back like a rocket. So far taking light shavings, working in doing only 3 runs and checking the fit, was working for me.
almost |
It is hard for me to read and see where the drawer is actually hanging up. Here the top is tight against the rail. Noted this and went looking for other hang ups.
left side |
It looks like it is clear here but I also checked the other three points of contact - the R/L at the front and the L side here at the back.
two problems |
This side is tight T/B (at the front) along with tight against the side of the carcass. The top edge of the back is tight against the back rail. I started this by planing just the back top of the drawer until it had clearance. I then planed the left side of the drawer 3 times and checked the fit again.
surprised me to no end |
The drawer slid in and out like it was riding on a cushion of air. Not at all what I was expecting. I haven't planed the front faces yet and I'll do them when I do the veneering of them.
cooking |
As of this typing I plan to go to the shop after dinner and glue in the drawer slips. That way I just have to saw out the bottom panel and I can start fitting drawer #3.
interesting |
I barely applied any pressure to the split and it closed up tight. I will definitely try epoxy on this knowing how well the split closed up. The trick will be to get the epoxy into the split.
accidental woodworker
cherry cupboard and dresser work pt 3..........
It rained all day off and on. Rain again tomorrow and saturday morning. Then cloudy skies until thursday. Didn't get my walk in but I kept busy in the shop. Started working on the cherry cupboard and switched to the Dowel Max dresser for the rest of the day. I am going to continue working on the dresser and finish it before I turn back to the cherry cupboard.
found them |
I found 4 pine cut offs in the boneyard. I thought I had a lot more than this but I might have shit canned them when I last cleaned it up.
sigh |
The two widest pieces I have are both about a 1/8" short. Any of the four would work for the shortest drawer though.
I think ....... |
....I have pine veneer in my big box of pizza veneers. I found two pieces but I wasn't sure if they were pine or not. The cathedral grain on them didn't look like pine. There wasn't any separation between the late and early wood too. Just as well because neither piece was long enough (R/L) for the drawer fronts.
oak |
I would bet a lung that this is oak. This piece is enough for all 3 drawer fronts. The length is a 1/2" longer and the 3 widths won't have much waste neither.
out of the clamps |
It is a snug fit T/B and 3 frog hairs too wide R/L.
stopped the door fitting |
Decided that it would be better if I cleaned up the door first and then fit it to its opening. I had flushed the four corners on both sides and after trimming the outside edges it was still square.
blowout |
I broke off a small sliver and I immediately glued it back. After I pressed it home it disappeared. I taped it or where I thought it was, and set it aside to cook.
this one looks ugly to me |
This one broke off when dry fitting the door together. I used super glue on it and it did not close up nicely. I am going to paint the joint line with black paint when I apply the finish. I have one more like this on the back side of the door that will get the same treatment.
1st drawer |
Initially I was going to do this one drawer and switch back to the cherry cupboard. That changed when I felt like doing dovetails more than fitting the door.
done |
Had a hiccup with the back of the sides but it didn't hold things up. Got a good fit and no problems getting the diagonals dead nuts on.
another change |
I got it glued and cooking when I realized that I hadn't plowed a groove in the front for the bottom. I'll have to use 3 slips for the bottom panel.
yikes |
It ain't square boys and girls. I wanted to use this to trim the 45s on the drawer slips. This is toast unless I can straighten it out and get it square again.
double ended |
This side is a lot closer to square but not quite.
dry fit |
Trued the miters up on donkey ear jig. It is a slip fit and it sits higher than I planned. I forgot to account for the plywood bottom. Not a deal breaker as this drawer is 1 1/2" higher than anything I plan to put in it.
oops again |
I made this same fiasco with the first drawer. That half pin on the right is what screwed with my brain functioning. I dealt with it by making the half pin a whole lot bigger than I wanted it.
front glued |
Glued the front in first and the sides. The panel exerted sufficient pressure on the sides for the glue to set up and bond.
dry fit |
This one was a PITA to get the diagonals to agree. I see sawed back and forth on it about 7-8 times before I nailed it. I always do the bottom because that is my reference for everything associated with the drawer.
surprised myself |
I didn't forget to clean up the insides of either drawer. I usually catch that after I have glued it up and I'm checking diagonals.
done |
Glued and squared up. It was easy because I already knew what the diagonals should be.
first drawer is done |
It had several hours to set up. The drawer slips are secure and I installed the bottom and nailed it at the back.
might as well |
The drawer fits in the height (snug) but not side to side. Decided to try and get it fitted.
planing the sides |
Wised up and clamped something on the exit end so I didn't blow it out.
no man's land |
This is the tricky part of drawer fitting for me. The top to bottom seems to fit whether I put the back into the opening first or the front in first. However the R/L is strong. The opening is square but the drawer side didn't look square to my eye.
I was right |
The front end of the drawer on this side is square to the bottom but starting about the 1/2 way point it is out of square. I did this same thing on the right drawer of the cherry cupboard - I planed tapered sides on it. I would like to avoid that with all 3 of these drawers. I'll come back to this in the AM because the clock said it was 1522 and quitting time.
accidental woodworker
cherry cupboard and dresser work pt 1..........
The good weather ends tomorrow with a boatload or rain forecasted. Thursday and friday are both rain days. Sunshine isn't coming back until next thursday. The nice 60F plus temps during the day are history too with seasonable temps in the 40-50F range. Oh well I guess you can say at least it isn't snow.
resisted the urge |
I wanted to come back to the shop after dinner and play with it. But I didn't and I let it cook until the AM.
happy face on |
The diagonals are off less the width of one black line. I had checked it with 4 clamps on it and it was a 32nd off. I added two more clamps and I saw the sides move but I left it alone. I was happy when I checked them this AM.
Buck Bros paring chisel |
I got these chisels over 30 years ago and I can count on one hand how many times I've used them and have fingers left over. Used them today to flush the drawer guides to the front rails. They do work a hell of a lot better now that I can sharpen them. I do try to use them when doing dadoes. It is almost 12" long and it has a longer reach than my bench chisels.
speaking of chisels |
This is the chisel that the handle split but didn't separate. I glued it back together and I can't find the glue joint line. I used it to chop the dovetails on the cherry cupboard. I wanted to see how well the glue up would hold up. Extremely well and I'm going to shellac the handle and keep using it.
the top view |
I remember seeing the joint line on the top but today I'm not so sure. This glue up is the best one I have done as a repair.
miller dowels |
I got two miller dowels in each rail. The only tricky ones to do were the bottom ones at the back. I had to drill for the dowels in between the 3 nails in them.
helping hand |
On the other side I noticed that glue was oozing out of the end grain. I didn't see any splits so on this side I used a clamp to ward off any screw ups. No glue oozed out and I had no other hiccups.
the top |
Used miller dowels to attach the top to the sides. I don't see any difference between these dowels and dowels that don't come through. Wood movement isn't a problem because the top and sides have the same grain alignment.
no gaps |
I wasn't sure what to expect with this. I used clamps to hold the top on the sides while I drilled and inserted the dowels. I removed them after that and the top didn't move.
ditto |
The other side is as good as it.
split or a crack? |
This is a side for one of the dresser drawers. There are splits/cracks on both faces. I couldn't spread them apart and break them. This was the only one that extended out to the end. I forced as much glue into the split/crack as I could and set it aside to cook.
it fits |
The 1/4" birch panels I bought fit in the cherry cupboard door grooves. I expected the panel to be wobbly and loose and it isn't.
hmm..... |
This plywood is a 64th under a 1/4" thick. Along with that it doesn't look that bad with its 3 inner laminations.
door frame dry fitted |
No problems dry fitting the door back together. There was some evidence of hide glue but it looks like I did a decent job of cleaning it off of it.
where ? |
Used the door to figure out where to cut the panel. Moved it around until I found something I liked. What I was concerned with was the panel grain next to the stiles. The center of the panel will be hidden behind the tile so it only the outside edges I needed to see.
dry fit |
I had to clean/chisel off dried hide glue on two tenons - it was keeping the bridle joint from closing without gaps.
glued and cooking |
Last time to check that the door is laying flat on all the clamps. I don't want to have to make another door because this came out twisted. The door looked flat so I set it aside.
the warm spot |
This new furnace doesn't radiate any where near the heat the old boiler did. It is warmer here than it is by the workbench. I used hide glue for this and I'll brought it upstairs when I killed the lights.
needs a rabbet |
The hanging rail needs a rabbet for the back plywood panel.
ready for the panel |
Squared the corners and flushed the top of the hanging rail with the carcass.
fits again |
I wish I could have this one back again. I had to cut off about a 3" wide piece that isn't much good for anything else.
dresser drawers |
The parts are oversized 4-5 frog hairs. I planed the top edges of all the parts and labeled the bottoms. I am going to use through dovetails on this because all the parts are a 1/2" thick. I would have liked the front to be thicker, say 5/8 or 3/4. This is a shop dresser so it will be ok. I have some thin pine somewhere that I might be able to glue on the drawer fronts to hide the dovetails. Just have to find it.
needs a crest rail |
Putting this on tops has become a calling card for me. I will say I don't like a plain, flat top. Besides it keeps things from rolling off the back.
chamfer |
Used a block plane to chamfer the straight away and a chisel to do the curved ends.
done |
Changed lanes and the chamfer got rounded over. I was happy with how the chamfer came out but not how it looked. I couldn't tell/see it on the finished crest rail. Rounded it over with a sanding block and that I can see now.
only a 1/2" thick |
I think it was due to the size of the crest rail and the size of the chamfer that doomed it. The chamfer was only a 1/8" in from the edge - kind of small and not noticeable from a few feet away. The color and grain absence fooled the eye too.
double, triple checking myself |
Making sure that I have sufficient height for the dowel max and the plywood bottom. I'm going to try and bury the front edge of it in the inside bottom of the drawer front. I'll use slips for the sides. This way I won't have any grooves running end to end.
accidental woodworker
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