Hand Tool Headlines

The Woodworking Blogs Aggregator

NOTICE

Norse Woodsmith will be going offline for possibly up to a week during the month of February to attempt a major site upgrade.  If it is successful it will return, however it may look wonky for a while while I dial it in.  If not successful, well.. then your guess is as good as mine!  Thanks in advance for your patience.

Be sure to visit the Hand Tool Headlines section - scores of my favorite woodworking blogs in one place.

General Woodworking

We find braces in the Jasmin Cottage wall

Rivers Joinery - Fri, 12/20/2024 - 1:19am

The window is supported, with a section of new framing, and the top of the masonry fixed, with lime mortar and stone. It is now safe to investigate the cracks in the cement mortar, that continue up the side of the window. This cautious removal of render, rather than a wholesale approach proves it's worth; it may have been all that was keeping the structure together.


We find a brace. Phew! Some historic roof leak has dripped down and rotted the front of it. The front was removed to a depth of 1" and a new piece fixed in.



The stud on the left has bad damage above the brace, but is ok below, which is to be expected. So the stud is sistered above and below the brace and secured. This will hold it all together until the rest of the wall receives attention.


Jasmin Cottage is down an alleyway that leads through the left hand door on Totnes High Street.



This building, apparently, still has the footprint of the original Anglo-Saxon hall which stood on the site. That original building and the alleyway were being used over 1000 years ago.



hurting.....

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 12/19/2024 - 2:29am

While on my post lunch stroll I tripped on something on the sidewalk and bounced off it. I fell on my left knee, shoulder, and I hit my head on the curb. Lucky for me there was no traffic coming because I ended up face down in the road. I am one day away from turning 70 and I was playing the bounce test with the sidewalk.

I cut the stroll short and headed back to the barn. I hurt a little but it was manageable. That changed as the day wore on. My shoulder hurts a lot and movement isn't easy but the knee doesn't hurt. I must have hit my ribs on the left side too because that area aches. It doesn't hurt to breathe but I can feel it as I move about. 

Needless to say there was no PM session and I vegged out at my desk. I don't know if I'll be up to working in the shop tomorrow. I'll play that tune by ear.

AM session work

Planed all the miters flush on both faces. These miters are strong and I couldn't pull it apart. I tried with all my strength to break them by pulling on the short legs. 

 heels are off

The toes come to a point and the heels don't matter. They are on the inside and won't be visible. I am not going to obsess about this. The short legs are a few frog hairs wider in width then the long front piece.

 planing chamfers

No hiccups getting the chamfers done on the moldings and the shelf. 

 shelf pin notches

Sawed the notches like I was doing half blinds. I laid the front notches wrong and I had to fill them in. I'll redo them when...? Used the dozuki and it worked better then my western saw because its kerf is a lot thinner than my western saw kerfs. 

My hardware is coming but I still don't know when. The company says it has shipped but the tracking link says nothing. It doesn't matter much if I can't get to the shop and work.

accidental woodworker

Mohawk Shelburne 10" Ratcheting Brace

Woodworking in a Tiny Shop - Wed, 12/18/2024 - 1:18pm

This post is about fixing up a hand brace.  For most people reading this, there won't be anything new or ground breaking, so maybe this post is for those who don't already know much about braces.

One of the tools I found at the estate sales that I wrote about recently was a 10" ratcheting brace with the inscription "MOHAWK SHELBURNE / MADE IN U.S.A. / NO. 1710".  I didn't know anything about this brand, so I looked into it.

The Mohawk Shelburne No. 1710

The inscription

Info from the Old Tool Heaven website indicates (look about 3/4 down the linked page for the 1700 series) that this was made by Millers Falls as an "economy" line of tools.  This one is likely from the 1935-1948 time period, though I would have thought it was newer than that based on its condition.  It was a little rusty, but it cleaned up easily and is in great shape.  For an "economy" brace, this thing is built very solidly.

The first thing I did for this brace was to sand lightly (about 400 grit paper) all the surfaces to remove rust.  Fortunately it didn't need much.  I also used some 00 and 0000 steel wool and a wire wheel in a drill to clean things up.

Well, that looks a lot nicer!

The jaws that hold an auger bit need to be able to slide easily inside the shell.  I have skinny fingers and can fit one inside the shell with some fine sandpaper or steel wool to clean up the forward (conical) part of the inside of the shell.  If you've got fat fingers, use a padded screwdriver or something similar.

The shell and jaws

Looking from back end of the shell, note the shiny, smooth front conical portion
on the inside.  That's where the jaws need to slide.

Pointer shows where to get a nice smooth surface for the jaws to slide well in the shell

After cleaning up these parts, I gave them both a little oil to guard against rust and ensure they slide easily against each other.

Next is to clean up the threads on the inside of the shell and on the brace's main body where the shell screws on.  A brass brush or toothbrush works well here.  But when the dirt and gunk are a little heavier, then a pointed tool (like in the previous picture) can help clean them up.  A string can also be used to help clean between the external threads.

Clean threads allow the shell to screws on easily

The ratcheting mechanism is next.  For this brace, I shot some WD40 in all the joints to loosen up any crud.  Work the forward and reverse mechanism to loosen any dirt underneath it, and then spin the external threaded area in both directions to ensure the lubricant gets spread to all locations.

Here's the forward / reverse mechanism ...

... and the ratchet mechanism

So far I have not had the courage to do it, but if the ratcheting was not working (or working very poorly), you can knock out some pins to take it apart.

I think these two pins hold the ratcheting "pawls" in place

There's another pin here for disassembly of the ratcheting gear

I shook loose and wiped away as much WD40 as I could and added several drops of oil to keep things in nice working order.

Now for the handle - not sure what to call the rear handle, but that one.  I noticed early on the ball bearings that are used.  You can see them in the next picture.  If this wasn't already in good condition, I could have taken it all apart to clean the bearing race.  As it was, I just gave everything a good oiling and put it back together.

In this pic taken pre-rust removal, you can se the ball bearings

Under the handle, there are three screws, ...


... but these aren't the only thing holding the wood handle to the base.
Note the threads that the wood handle screws onto.

If I wanted to access the ball bearings, I could remove this C-clip

I opted not to scrape and refinish the two handles.  They were in pretty good shape already.  Not that they couldn't use some new finish - it just wasn't that urgent.

And that's it.  There's not too much involved in cleaning up a brace, especially one that is already in pretty good working order.

All cleaned up and ready to go

Catch you all next time.

A Brush With Destiny

Tools For Working Wood - Wed, 12/18/2024 - 4:00am
A Brush With Destiny 17
You may see a lot of tools, both good and bad, on the used market. But you will rarely if ever see a finishing brush on the used market. They simply wear out. These days brushes are considered largely a utility item in the woodworking world. Artists are known to be picky when it comes to brushes, and artist brushes can be quite expensive. But in the woodworking realm, finishing brushes were were seldom given much thought, much less the kind of scrutiny that other tools garnered.

About 15 or 20 years ago I posed the question: how do you brush on quick-drying finishes without brush marks? Varnishes and other finishes that take several hours to dry are self leveling. The finish simply floats on the surface until the brush marks melt away. Oil finishes don't really leave a buildup on the surface when applied properly - they soak in and that's it.

French polish, that wonderful shellac finish, is basically rubbed on flat surfaces minuscule thin layer by minuscule thin layer, but it's a slow process. French polish also doesn't work on molding or carved surfaces. So what's the solution?

Here's another peripheral question that's also relevant. Before spraying equipment was invented, how did car makers get glass smooth lacquer finishes on cars, or piano makers on pianos?

And the answer to that question turned out to be that there was special class of finishing brush made of superfine hair. That hair would have been made out of Badger, Fitch (aka European polecat), or European Ox. Over the years, fitches and badgers became endangered and those brushes made from their hair essentially disappeared from the market. They are certainly are not available for casual use. Brushes called "badger" or "Fitch" are generally hog or boar bristle that has been whipped against a post, resulting in tips broken down into a finer hair. You will get some brushes made out of ox, but not 100% ox. The rest would be hog bristle.
So about 20 years ago we found a brush maker in the Bronx, who was willing to make us a hundred percent European ox brush. And people loved them! Then company was sold to another brush maker, the hair got harder to get, and about 2 years ago our supply dried up.

About two months ago I got a call from the maker saying that they had found a stash of the ox-hair and they missed us. Did we want more brushes? Yes we did! Of course we said yes on the condition that the quality stayed the same. There is a change in the color of the ox hair, but otherwise we are satisfied with the quality. We ordered them in 2" width, by far the most popular size, and some 3". We still had some 1" in stock. When these are gone we do not know if we will be able to restock but for now at least I am very glad we have the brushes back.

N.B. The waterborne brushes, which use an artificial hair, will not return. We just ran out of the our remaining supply of 1" brushes we still have, sadly, they are gone.


A Brush With Destiny 18

cherry cupboard pt 23.......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 12/18/2024 - 3:19am

After walking in below freezing temps lately, today's stroll in 60F (15C) was real nice. But my day started with an urology appointment at the VA. I'm having surgery on the prostate next summer-ish. My bladder is retaining too much so I have an ultrasound and a cystoscopy scheduled for feb 26, 2025. Based on what those tests reveal determines the direction surgery will take. 

Of course being me I had to ask a bazillion questions of the doc. She was very patient with me and answered them fully leaving no gaps. There are 3 options for the surgery with two being performed at the Providence VA and the third in Boston. Fingers crossed that it will be one of the first two. Either way it is a one day procedure with me being sent home with a Foley catheter for 3 days. Not looking forward to it but I have no other options.

 ugly looking

I can push down on the left end of the drill bit to tip it to take it out now. I'll be revisiting this to sand the semi circle smooth. And to glue back on the end that popped off.

 practice time

Before I commit to the real cherry I made a couple of practice runs with scraps of cherry. Glad I did because I brain farted twice. I was rushing and I didn't align my check marks on the cherry with the check marks on the Dowel Max.

 last two practice pieces

Shot these miters to match the ones I'll do for real next.

 another check point

Checking to ensure that the dowels will be seated in the meat of the heel. The dowels are 1 1/2" long.

 check mark in the 'done right' column

After I got this glued up I think I should have used 3 dowels. I didn't because the recommendation for 2" wide stock was 2 dowels. But there was room for a 3rd one.

 1"

I should have had about 3/4" inch sticking above. 

 made a me-steak

I measured the length for the drill stop collar a 1/4" short. Fixed that and drilled the holes to the correct depth.

 had an oops moment

I thought I had aligned all the check marks but I didn't. Depending upon if you are a half full or half empty type of guy, I either had the jig or the piece of cherry 180 out.

 flush

I pinched the toes shut with my fingers. I then dry clamped it and the miter closed up tight. Happy with how this came out and especially how easy it is to use this jig. You (meaning me) just have to pay attention to the check marks. And to double, triple check that the nuts don't loosen between drilling.

 hmm.....

This explains the flush being off. It was flush on one face but the opposite one was off. They weren't the same width (didn't matter to the flushing) and the thickness was off a few frog hairs.

the home team wins in OT

First one done. The miters closed up nicely with hand pressure with the top surfaces being flush. One down and one to go.

 which profile to pick?

Since this cupboard is rectilinear top to bottom and side to side I think a bullnose would look out of place. I plan on overhanging the moldings at the front and sides by 3/4". I think an asymmetrical chamfer will look nice (about a 1/2" in on the flat and a 1/4" down the edge vertically).

ditto

I feel better now that both of the mitered moldings are reinforced. 

glued and cooking

It was easy peasy clamping these. Nothing moved, shifted, groaned, or otherwise complained. If I had used biscuits it would have moved on me. I'll let these cook until the AM.

 5 coats

After this one I put on two more. I didn't like how the inside of the box felt and looked. Around the bottom inside edges it looked like the shellac had pooled in a couple of spots. I scraped and sanded it until that evidence disappeared. I think it will need at least one more coat on the insides. The outside feels smooth every where I checked it.

 doing a comparison

The measurements I got with the calipers matched what the box has. I want the 6mm tenons and they are in transit to me.

I spent some quality time searching for 6mm Festool tenons and the 8mm ones match the measurements of the Kreg 8mm. I couldn't get a match between Festool and the Kreg on the 6mm ones. There are a lot of sizes with the Festool tenons too. I'll have wait and see what the Kreg sizes are.

 need a shelf

I wanted to use the board on the far right - it has some sapwood on the leading edge. I couldn't get a decent grain/color match to it with another board. Instead I used the two in the middle for the shelf.

 dry fit

I wasn't trying to do it, but I ended up with a spring joint. Probably could have used one clamp but I didn't want to chance it going south on me.

 fill in the time project

This pile in the shitcan was the 1/4" stock that used to be the drawer sides/bottoms on the vanity I rehabbed for my wife. I was able to split it basically by just looking at it. It was shame because the shortest width was almost 11". 

 four solid pieces

Out of that pile these were the only ones I couldn't split anymore. I put them aside and I'll find a use for them?

to close to call

I was hoping to use it for the bottom for a box. This might be wide enough but I would like more wiggle room in the width.

 two upcoming dozuki boxes

There were four drawers in the vanity and this is what I got from it. After I sawed off all the defects, holes, and splits/cracks this is what I have for two boxes. I am going to saw the dovetails again with the dozuki and see how well I do on these compared to the first box I did.

accidental woodworker

cherry cupboard pt 22..........

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 12/17/2024 - 3:01am

I thought today I would be at a loss for doing anything. I was kind of dead in the water with the cupboard and nothing was on the horizon for the next project. I got a ton of little things done and I almost worked through lunch. I started the day working on the dozuki box and finished up the PM session with the cherry cupboard. All and all it was a productive day.

 I behaved

I came back to the shop last night and I resisted the urge to play with this. I left it clamped until the AM session rolled around.

happy to see this

Used this scrap to check the cup on this long side. Very happy to say that there was only a teeny weeny sliver of light under it. And the gaps at the half pins closed up a lot too.

 a 16th off

I wasn't expecting this to be this close. The four corners were another surprise as they were all square.

 changed my mind on this

Because the box was square I decided to finish it. A bottom is up coming along with 3-4 coats of shellac.

 no twist top or bottom

 this corner was high

I ran the 5 1/2 around the bottom edge 5-6 times planing it smooth and even.

 glued and cooking

I left the bottom over long and I trimmed it close on the bandsaw.

 cherry cupboard drawers

I didn't like the proud of the drawers and I couldn't ignore it. I planed, scraped, and sanded them until they were flush.

one down, one to go

It was a little odd to me that the top right corner of the left drawer and the the top left corner of the right drawer were proud. 

done

Felt much better about the drawers now. It took a while doing some careful work to flush them. IMO it was well worth the calories expended.

Leo's dresser

I dumped some scraps in the shit can and looked over at Leo's dresser. Realized that I hadn't labeled the drawers. I pulled them out one a time and used my letter punch to label them. The drawers aren't interchangeable and were fitted for their respective openings.

overkill ?

A couple of the knobs were loose. I took off all the knobs and applied a dab of blue lock tite to them. I have never done this before so I don't know if it will work or not.

 hmm......

Leo is 6 years old and how long will these stop hinges last with him? I would give odds that they would break/snap off the first day. Decided to put chain stays on both lids.

 needed help

This wood is wenge and it like trying to screw into stone. I made a pilot hole with an awl and nada. I couldn't get the screw to start and thread. The gimlets worked for making a better pilot hole and no hiccups setting the screws then.

 done

This chain stay isn't the strongest and I doubt it will last for the long haul. Fingers crossed that it will be longer than 24hrs.

 last 3

None of these knobs were loose but I put lock tite on them too.

 shelf pin time

There isn't much that I could do on the cupboard. I was going to do this after I had applied the shellac but I did it now.

finally

This was the 4th depth stop I made before I got it right. I paid attention this time and put it in the box with the pins when I was done with it.

 wow

Ten years old already. I've been making these boxes for a long time.

 prepping the dozuki box

I planed the pins/tails flush and then sanded it starting with 80 going up to 220.

and then there was one

I had 3 cans of different types of shellac. I poured two of them into the 3rd one. Used that mixture on the dozuki box.

 smoothing the top edge

No lid on this box. I planed the top edge to remove the saw marks on it.

 not too orange

One can was gossamer and another was blonde. The last one I didn't label but it was dark. The mixture wasn't as orange as I thought it would be.

 top and bottom moldings

Sawn to width and rough length. Still undecided on the edge profile. I am leaning in the direction of a simple chamfer but I am also liking the idea of a bull nose. I have plenty of time to flip a coin for the winner.

door stop

Using this offcut from the moldings for a door stop. Another decision is where to place it? The top, side, or the bottom? Or maybe all three?

 miter shooting plane

The iron is sharp but I honed it because I was going to shoot the molding miters next. This was my first time shooting miters in a hardwood. Up to now I have only shot pine miters on this jig.

 RML shavings

Equal width and length - right, middle, and left shavings. Ready to shoot cherry miters.

 sawing miters

None of the miters I sawed was 45°. Some were close but still no cigar. I also didn't saw a single edge square to the face.

 3 coats, inside and outside

This will be done today. I'm calling it done after 4th coat.

 thin and wispy shavings

I was a bit apprehensive about shooting these miters. Would I be lucky and not get squirrely grain. Would I be able to plane the whole miter in one continuous motion? I had no hiccups planing any of the miters. I got a nice consistent pile of wispy like shavings on each one.

 rough and planed miters

The top one is sawn and the bottom planed. That one is as smooth as glass.

 square

It was square both on the inside and outside.

unexpected hiccup

I am thinking of using my new Dowel Max to reinforce the miters. However the long molding is slightly thicker then the side moldings. I knifed the difference and it was about a 32nd I had to plane away.

 almost ready

The long front moldings are shot to length but the sides are long. I will saw them to length after they are installed.

 took longer than I thought it would

Got my little sliver telling me I'm down to thickness.

 dead flush

If I do use the Dowel Max these moldings need to be the same thickness. 

accidental woodworker

dozuki saw.....

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 12/16/2024 - 3:31am

 Today was experiment day which involved using my dozuki saw. I recently got two replacement blades from Woodcraft and I made a dovetailed box with it. As I have said before I bought a dozuki saw to do dovetails but called it defective. I really wasn't expecting any problems with it back then. My skills at sawing, way back then even with western saws, was atrocious. I simple didn't have a basic sawing skill set to use it with half way decent results. Fast forward to today and the dozuki and I sawed a dovetailed box together.

tail boards

I don't need another box but on the off chance I decided to try and make a serviceable shop box. I had two pieces of scrap pine that I got the 4 sides from. I wanted to use this vise but lately my back doesn't like bending over to do sawing in this vise.

 broke out the Moxon

This will be a first for me - sawing dovetails in a Moxon with a dozuki. I had some thoughts floating in the back of my head that the pull stroke would play havoc with me - it didn't. I hardly noticed/felt/sensed sawing on the pull stroke. It actually helped with starting the saw cut on the knife line.

 comparable to my western saw cuts

About the only thing I could say that was different is the kerf of the dozuki. It is noticeably thinner than both of my western dovetail saws. It took me a couple tails before I felt comfortable sawing across the top. The vertical down cuts weren't a problem and I dealt with them as I would have with my western dovetail saw.

pit stop

The wood I was using was New Zealand pine I got from Lowes and my chisels were a tad on the dull side. I stopped to sharpen the 3 chisels I needed to do the chiseling. The 1/4" chisel will no longer fit in my Lie Nielsen honing guide. This is the Veritas version of the LN honing guide. The 1/4" chisel fits in it with some wiggle room.

 the problem

Where the 1/4" chisel blade flares out at the handle end was the hold up. On the LN chisel the jaws were tightening on this and the chisel was loose in the guide. It was also not being held at 25°. If this chisel gets any shorter I will have to do it free hand.

tails

I'm happy with the tails. Other than dealing with the thinner kerf, the tails look exactly like what I get with my western saws.

 pin saw cuts

These saw cuts were harder to do for me. I had to concentrate more doing the vertical cuts. The first couple were my training wheels and by the last set I was sawing them as fast as I do with a western saw. The important thing is I sawed plumb and on the pencil lines.

 backside

Happy with this. The backside saw cuts are on the pencil lines and plumb too.

first corner dry fitted

It went together off the saw and I didn't have to shave any pins. However, the fit is loose - not sloppy loose - but looser than my last dovetails done with a western saw. I think the glue will swell and tighten the tails and pins.

 I have a box

The other 3 corners were tighter than the first one. The thin kerf of the saw I think caused these hiccups. If I use the dozuki again I'll have to keep that in mind. 

I got a gap at the half pin. I didn't chisel a knife wall before sawing the half pins. Instead I used the knife line to start the saw cut in. Part of the gap is caused by this long side being cupped.

 needed some help

I had to clamp both ends of the cupped long side to close up the gaps in the half pins and flatten it. I'm not sure how well it will hold because the cup is about a 16th across the width at the middle. I'll leave this clamped until the AM. Fingers crossed it doesn't spring back on me.

 this surprised me

I wasn't expecting to have the inside gap free. I thought sawing dovetails with the dozuki that I would have gaps not only on the tails/pins but on the inside too.

 ditto

Gap free insides on the other two corners. This sawing experiment came out much better than I thought it would. I was anticipating looking at crappy. loose dovetails and seeing improvement with subsequent ones. One take away with this (IMO) is that my sawing skills have definitely improved from the time I first tried a dozuki (14-15 years ago?).

One hiccup with the clamping of the box is that it isn't square. I used a 4" square and checked the four corners. Two were square and two weren't but not by a lot. Either way the wind blows for a test box that will end up a shop box it is ok

accidental woodworker

Peas!! Frame #256

Woodworks by.John - Sun, 12/15/2024 - 4:11pm
“When Time Stands Still” by: Diane Eugster

Another frame and another challenge, this time it was carving peas into a bead on the outer edge of the profile. I did a small sample piece and held it by this painting — liked the results so decided to jump in and commit to an 18″ by 24″ frame! On the sample the sight edge was also gilded but as the work progressed I decided to paint that black instead to completely isolate the subject from the rest of the world, a definite barrier from the frame.

During my research I found a few different ways other’s have gone through to carve them. Chris Pye had an article showing his method and Tim Holton had a blog showing his technique. Chris Pye begins by using a router to create a bead but my preference is my small plow plane with a 1/4″ cutter. No dust and quiet and not really that long of a process. The layout is done using two calipers, this process takes some fiddling around to achieve equal spacing all around the frame. I tape a piece of masking tape to the bench and lay out the outside length of each side plus the center line. I arbitrarily decided on 6 peas in a segment and an approximate distance between each of the segments. The goal was to end up with approximately the same distance at the ends of both sides. Once satisfied, one caliper is set for that distance and the center of each segment in marked on the bead. I set the other caliper for 6mm which is the size of the #8 gouge used. Three marks from the center each way gave me 6 peas. As it turned out there are 9 segments on the 24″ leg and 7 on the 18″ leg. This slide show shows the basic procedure. Tim Holton used a v-chisel for separations between the beads but he used Oak rather than the softer basswood on my frame. The advantage is that the V gives you some clearance when making the first pass with the gouge — I only popped out one of the beads at the start because I tried to go vertical with the gouge too soon, thankfully it glued back in. By taking shallow cuts at the start and using a brush to clear out the waste the process went smoothly — about 4 hours of time needed for the entire frame.

  • Creating 1/4″ bead with small plow plane
  • Cut with double bevel 1F/8 on center line of pea
  • Cut in with 8/6mm gouge to center from one direction, use brush to remove chip and cut from other side
  • I took 2 shallow cuts, gradually going to center. Followed up with almost vertical outline of the pea.
  • Use a single bevel, 8mm chisel, goal is to remove the chip between each of the peas.
  • Final brushing to clear chips, the burnisher/sealer should fill in any remaining gouge marks.

I made it a point to not obsess about the shapes of the peas, trying to get them all “perfect”. Once I completed a set of six I told myself it is what it is — by the time all 192 are carved and the burnisher sealer is applied, the gold leaf is laid, and the toning is completed it will look fine!

The finishing process began with a coat of Zinsser wax free shellac on all surfaces. This was followed by a coat of Red Burnisher/Sealer from LA Gold Leaf. The primer was then burnished with 4/0 oil free steel wool (Liberon) and the panel was taped off so I could paint the sight edge black with Rosco Japan Drop Black. I realize I gave a bunch of links here for products that I use, obviously that’s all personal preference but if you’re unfamiliar with them thought I’d add the information. The wax free shellac and steel wool are critical in my opinion. As much time as it takes to create frames you don’t want to have a failure in the finishing step.

Next step is the gilding process. My preference is to use slow set, oil based size. The weather hasn’t been very warm but the frame was sized around 7:00 pm then covered to prevent too much dust. I began laying the leaf around 8:30 am and it worked well. The picture on the left shows the frame after knocking down the bright shine of metal leaf with 4/0, oil free, steel wool from Liberon. Only the top and right side are done in the picture. After allowing 2 days for the size to dry completely I air brushed on 2 coats of platinum shellac; it is wax free. The final step is toning, for this Titanium White casein, mixed with distilled water and a drop of alcohol was used. Brush on, then dry brush to achieve the look I was after — always a bit of an unknown! Iced Gold is what I call this and once the casein is thoroughly dry (24+ hours), I’ll protect it with a thin coat of Liberon Black Bison wax. Here is the

So that’s the process, I hope this helps anyone else on this process of making custom picture frames. It’s a process I’ve been on for over 15+ years. It’s been my goal to share what I’ve learned along the way with others on this journey.

Categories: General Woodworking

Keyaki Tabi-dansu 3

Big Sand Woodworking - Sun, 12/15/2024 - 3:56am

Before finishing assembly of the keyaki tabi-dansu, there were a few other details to take care of. Mainly a pair of grooves in the top and bottom panels which will house the door, as well as a rabbet on the back edge of all panels that will hold the cabinet back. This time I decided… Read More »Keyaki Tabi-dansu 3

The post Keyaki Tabi-dansu 3 appeared first on Big Sand Woodworking.

cherry cupboard pt 21.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 12/15/2024 - 3:20am

Well boys and girls I have gone dead in the water with the cherry cupboard again. I was checking my hinges and pulls and I have the correct drawer pulls but I am missing the hinges. I have two sets of them but they both have the wrong finish. I also found that I don't have a snap catch neither with a black oxide finish. I got hinges and a snap catch on order. It wasn't too bad because both were on sale. No idea when I'll get them but hopefully it'll be before xmas.

 side by side comparison

The two drawers on the left were the first ones I made for the cherry cupboard. The right ones are the 2nd ones out of the gate. The top left one I tried making a different drawer slip. I made with a rabbet so the bottom laid on it flush - no side slip showing above it. Not too sure that I like it. I don't mind the slips showing. The right drawers I made the slips differently too. On these I didn't the notch the back end to go under and past the back.

 sides

The top ones look off IMO. I screwed up the tail layout at the back. I had to cut them off and attach the back in a rabbet. Glued and nailed it and that is what demotes it. The bottom ones I did ok on. I figured out how to do the tail layout - I like this look much better than the nailed one.

 the first drawers

The left drawer is acceptable but the right one sucks pond scum. I couldn't get past the gap on the sides especially the left side. Which will shift to the right if I move the drawer to the left.

 happy face on

I took my time with fitting the 2nd ones. I forced myself to take only two shavings and then check the fit. After checking the fit I would go upstairs and then come back down to the shop and repeat. It paid off because I got (IMO) an excellent fit. I fought the urge to take one more swipe a bazillion times. 

I had some concerns that the right drawer would be a nightmare to fit because the right side is out of square. I imagined that the side would jam and bind in nutso mode on me. That didn't happen and the fitting of both drawers was uneventful.

 first drawer - the bottoms

The drawer on the left has no slips showing in the interior. I glued strips to the bottom inside 360 and I glued the plywood bottom on top of them. The drawer on the right has full width drawer slips that are notched to go under the back. Both drawers are different lengths because the right one I had to saw the messed up tails off. I decided to make the left one as long in length as I could.

 2nd set of drawers

The slips on these are flush with the back. I didn't notch them. The bottom is captured in a groove at the front and nailed at the rear to the bottom of the back. So there isn't much stress on the slips. I think this is the way I'll do slips from this point on. 

 drawer stops

I initially installed the stops with a couple of drops of super glue. After checking the stops working, I put 3 nails in each one.

 hmm.....

One corner on each drawer is a wee bit proud. Not sure how I'll address this hiccup. I can see it but my wife didn't pick up on it. Now that I'm dead in the water on this I have the time to eyeball it and figure something out.

 drawer pulls

I thought that these might be too big for these drawers. After seeing them I don't think that they are. I lost one of the screws for it. I hunted for it but I couldn't find it. I ordered some black oxide screws from Blacksmithbolt dot com. 

 sigh

The right size hinge - barrel tips and 2" but the wrong finish. There wasn't a finish type on the package. I'm pretty sure that I ordered oil rubbed bronze. It is a black finish that is hard to distinguish between it and a black oxide finish.

 don't like it

I have two of these catches along with two sets of matching H style hinges. I don't like the look of this for the cherry cupboard. I'll have to wait until the the order comes in whenever.

going bye-bye

My wife was scrambling trying to come up with a present for her sister. This is going to New York as her xmas present. Before it goes I will check the drawers opening and closing ok. I had to fuss with the drawers this summer because they wouldn't open.

 tomorrow

All the drawers are working easily. I waxed the bottom and sides of each drawer with bees wax. I then cleaned it with Simple Green because it had a lot of dust on it. It will be dry and ready for Howards Feed 'n Wax in the AM.

 my PM session work

The one thing I dislike about the xmas season - wrapping presents. All my shopping is done and I am just waiting on one book I bought for Miles. It is supposed to be coming this week on wednesday. Spoiler alert - I got everything here wrapped and under the tree by 1530.

accidental woodworker

Last minute gifts for Christmas

Vintage Tool Patch - Sat, 12/14/2024 - 4:00pm
15 sleeps until Christmas. Are you stuck for a gift for a woodworker? Need a stocking filler in a hurry? I’m going to go through a few things I’ve purchased off Amazon in the last year that are good tools, and can still be delivered in time for Christmas. So go through the pictures below, and maybe get a few ideas for a stocking filler you can get in a hurry! I’ve bought every tool I have listed, and I’m happy with all of them.
Categories: General Woodworking

cherry cupboard pt 20?.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 12/14/2024 - 3:08am

I pulled this part out of my rear door opening. I tried counting the blogs I published on it already and I got lost. A few of them I worked on other things too. For purposes unknown to man the hidden decree said to start anew again at 20. Things are moving along quickly and tomorrow I should start on the door.

 back tails

Laid out and sawed the tails for the back of the drawers. Did these differently than I normally do. I usually do one drawer at a time but on this I did each step of the process on both drawers at the same time.

 left drawer

I had to trim a couple of pins before it went together. It was way too snug to finesse or thump into submission.

 right drawer

Happy with how the tails came out for both drawers. For the most part I have a good fit with only a couple of gaps. Fingers crossed that the glue will close them up. Just noticed that I missed snapping any pics of the pin layout, sawing, and chopping. 

nope

I didn't expect the drawer to fit because the tails are a few frog hairs proud of the sides. If I cock the drawer both corners will fit in the opening.

 ditto for the left one

Before I do any fitting of the drawers I want to get the slips and the drawer bottoms installed.

 being a PITA

This drawer was being obstinate. I could push the long corner and square it up but it wouldn't hold that setting. After a couple of dance steps with it I put a clamp kitty corner to hold it square.

 2nd drawer behaved

I had to push this one kitty corner too to square it but it held that spot. I met my goal of getting the drawers done and glued up. It was also just before lunch and I was expecting this to be done in the PM session.

I walked to Johnny's Chalet and got a burger and fries for lunch. It was a bit nippy and )#%)@#%* cold when the wind blew. The temp was 32F (0C). I bought some flannel lined jeans and did I wear them? Nay, nay moose breath. For tomorrow's walk I'll check the temp before leaving and decide whether or not to wear them.

hmm.....

My replacement blades came a day early. I have ordered a lot of things lately and I would say over 3/4 of it has come early. Not too bad for it being the xmas shipping season. 

 old on top, new on the bottom

The only difference I could see between the two is the new labeling appears to be laser etched. It fits and I tried the new blade in both saw handles.

 didn't think this all the way through

I didn't look but I will go back and do that - this is the fine tooth and maybe I should get a coarser tooth blade for doing quicker cuts?

 drawer slips

Used the cordless mini router to round over the two outside edges.

 much better results

Used the new blade to cut out the drawer slip. I notched the end and the cuts aren't that bad. A few snips and pushes with a chisel squared it up nicely.

 changed my mind

After seeing the the slip in place I didn't like the look. I think the square shoulder is called a fillet?. I planed that off and sanded the round over smooth.

 first drawer done

I got a snug fit R/L and I didn't need to clamp it. I applied glue to the slips and the bottom 'clamped' it.

 sigh

Changed how I installed the slips mid stream. Decided to put them so the end at the back was flush with it - negated having to notch them. Unfortunately for me I ended up sawing four them too short. The gaps at the back end were all around a 1/4" short. And no, I don't know how I managed to screw it up 4 times.

 2nd drawer

I made two more slips and this time I rounded over the top edge with a blockplane and sandpaper. I got a snug fit with the slips - and I did them with the new dozuki saw blade. 

 too much

I forgot to cut this to length before I glued the slips in place. I sawed off most of it with a flush cut saw and planed it flush with the back of the drawer. If I had more room at the back of the drawer opening I would have left this. It would make it easier to pull the bottom for repair if necessary. I didn't glue the bottom at all.

 I couldn't wait

I was going to wait until tomorrow to plane and fit the drawers but I was impatient. All I did here was to flush the sides and the tails with the front.

one point for the team

The side to side is perfect with less than a 16th of wiggle room. The drawer is hanging up on the top front of the drawer front. I couple of strokes with the #3 and that will be done.

 ditto

Did the same with the right drawer and the top front edge on it is keeping it from fitting the opening. I'll deal with the both of them in the AM. I may not sleep because how the right drawer will fit up in the opening is driving me crazy. I feel like a kid waiting for xmas morning to open all the presents.

accidental woodworker

Last pitch for the season, I promise

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Fri, 12/13/2024 - 3:27pm

[The shopping part of this post is copied from my substack blog today – and the log splitting at the end is different in each blog…today’s substack post was getting too long…]

There’s really woodworking in this post – but first one more commercial for our household’s offerings – both spheres. Maureen & Rose have kept adding stuff to their etsy site. Knitting, the last of Rose’s crocheted penguins and Maureen says the eco-prints are on sale. Their site is https://www.etsy.com/shop/MaureensFiberArts

……………………………..

I’ve finally packed the last 2 recent panels and put them in the mail. But that whole flurry of carved panels reminded me I have a panel I carved when I did the Dedham Carvings video – this is a riven panel, from some red oak – the best boards I use. Thickness varies a bit, but around 5/8” to 3/4”. Linseed oil finish. Signed on the back. Email me at PeterFollansbee7@gmail.com if you’d like it. Check or paypal – additional charge for paypal…

Panel #1

8 1/4” x 12”
$500 including shipping in US.

——————–

I’ve spent a couple of half-days getting a new log and starting to split it with my friend Rick McKee – https://www.instagram.com/medullary_rick/?hl=en

Rick McKee splitting eighths into sixteenths

Rick & I have known each other for decades, we used to work together in a living history museum. And way back then I used to impose on him to be my chainsaw operator. He’s good at it & I am terrible and don’t want to get good at it. I got out of museum work 10 years ago, he was a year or two ahead of me. And now that we’re both out in the world, he still helps me out with his saw, his wedges, humor and photos. So whenever it’s time for a new log, I get a hold of Rick. As it happened this time, he needed some oak as well.

We’ve been at it a couple of days – with a couple more to go. A big red oak for around here – 28″ x 14′. First thing Rick cut it into halves – once the sawing is done, I’m happy to go inspect.

looks great

Rick’s always got his phone/camera at the ready…here’s one of several snippets he shot of the splitting. Notice that as it gets closer to opening, I step down to the end of the log, instead of standing beside it. Watch your shins…

Quick Workbench Update

The Apartment Woodworker - Fri, 12/13/2024 - 9:41am
Just a quick update on my new workbench: I have attached the slab top (with pegs like a Moravian workbench) and oiled it a few times (with untinted Danish Oil), which I think looks super neat. I’ve also bored holdfast holes in the top (12″ back from the front edge of the bench and 14.5″ […]

Jasmin Cottage going deeper

Rivers Joinery - Fri, 12/13/2024 - 8:20am

 So we know now that there is rot in the timber frame. But how much?


Quite a lot. The sill is badly damaged, the left post/stud bottom is gone and the right post/stud bottom is gone and it's been removed above the sill to accomodate a bigger window than the original.


Support is given to the window and wall while a new section of timber work is made. The rotten timber is removed.


Expanding foam had been used to fill gaps in the lower floor masonry wall. This was part of the problem; not allowing the timber to breathe. Completely inappropriate materials. As much of the foam was dug out and replaced with stones and lime mortar. The new section of timber frame was scarfed into the left post, preserving as much of the historic material as possible. The ends of the sill have been bracketed for now. It is envisaged that the rest of the wall will have the rest of the portland cement render removed and frame repaired when funds allow. That will require full Listed Building Consent. The rest of the new sill can be scarfed in at that time. Now that the window is fully supported, investigation of the cracks further up the sides of the window can commence.

back to the cherry cupboard.......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 12/13/2024 - 3:50am

This cherry cupboard is heavy. It is easily twice the weight of its pine sibling. I don't consider myself a weakling but moving it around is pushes the limits on me. That aside I made good progress on the drawers. Maybe tomorrow I'll get them glued up. After the drawers are done, hinging the door is in the batters box.

half blind at the front

Laid out and sawed the dovetails for both drawers. I made the tails as large as I could to minimize the amount of end grain showing.

 didn't forget

Planed a small rabbet on the inside front edge. This is the best tip I have seen for half blinds. It is only 3-4 shavings so there is a minimal depth loss.

 tails to pins

The rabbet not only squares the tail board to the pin board, it helps to keep it stationary while I knife the tails unto the pin board.

 one down, 11 to go

I got the left drawer done before lunch. Did the right one after my walk.

 came 3 days early

This is the ring holder insert and it is borderline garbage. I was expecting it to be cloth and preferably satin. This ain't neither but it is plastic. This is disappointing to say the least. This cost me $13 and I should have bought the $6 one. I didn't because I thought it would be crappola.

 says it all

Another cheaply made item coming out of China.

 surprised me

The cushions are glued to a piece of 16th inch thick cardboard. I didn't think I would be able to cut it to size but I survived it. I got a clean cut line on both lines and I didn't rip/tear the cushions on the other side to shreds. I used my marking knife to cut off this piece.

I got lucky

I wasn't sure if I would get the insert to align with the box. The three fingers are an almost perfect fit from front to back. I am going to buy another one because I can't use this plastic $(^&@$)@%*_@%_@- . Ring inserts have to be cloth and this crappola shouts cheap.

 nemesis said hello 3 times

I was expecting gaps and I got 3 of them on this first one. That is because of how I marked them - I used my marking knife but I didn't knife them by cutting slightly under the end of each tail.

2nd one

Gaps here but not as bad as the first one. These might swell shut when I glue them.

#4

This one and #3 came out the best. I marked these pins by knifing under the tail slightly - kind of like a dado. #3 was too blurry to post. I took it and I couldn't figure out what it was.

 patting myself on the back

I must have ate some brain food for breakfast because I didn't forget to plow the groove for the drawer bottom in the fronts. I missed this step on the first drawers. With the groove in the front I only need two slips now.I didn't lose much depth neither - I placed the groove as close as possible to the bottom of the pin socket.

 backs sawn to width

I was a roll and I didn't forget the 3rd step - sawing the backs to final width (top to bottom).

 correct

I have struggled a bit with the back tail/pin layout. The half pin on the right is/was what was playing havoc with the brain bucket. I had to play with this for a few minutes before I remembered how I did it the last time. Just treat the right half pin like the half pin on a through dovetail layout. Ignore the extra wood to the right of it. Not only did I get it right, the tails/pins look symmetrical. 

 done

I got both L/R drawer sides laid out and sawn. I shouldn't have any heartaches with getting the drawers at least dry fitted in the AM.

 killed the lights

Before I killed them I picked up and put away a few tools. Squares and dovetailing doo dads - mostly small, easily misplaced tools. It is a habit I've gotten into over the past few months. I'm tired of running around with my head buried in my ass trying to find said tools in the AM. Lights out at 1513 today.

accidental woodworker

strange day......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 12/12/2024 - 3:18am

 It is dec 11th and the temp today hit 59F (15C). However, it rained all day long, heavy at times but nothing flooded (as of this typing). I had an appointment with my cardiologist after lunch so I got zero PM shop time. But he said I am doing very good heart wise and I will see him again in a year rather than 6 months. The drive home was a ROYAL PITA. Visibility was poor due to the downpour and I got stuck behind an accident. Once I got past that I ran into a couple of school buses. More stop and go at a turtles pace. Needless to say it was an ordeal for me driving home. I don't do well in traffic and hold ups but I managed to get home without raising my blood pressure and having/causing an accident. 

 well behaved

I am liking this pine way more that the pine I get at Lowes or Gurney's Sawmill. I don't know what kind it is (sugar pine?) and I'll ask the next time I go to get some more. No stupid wood tricks and it is ready to make into drawer parts.

found the drawer article

I remembered the sequence. The top and the bottom are the easiest to fit with the end grain ends harder to do.

hmm.......

This is the sequence that I do my drawers. I can't see what the difference is between the two.  Today I did the left one as labeled and the right one this way.

 slip fit

Call me crazy but I don't see the need to make the drawer a jam fit. There will be zero movement R/L so I planed it so I have a 32nd of wiggle room with more to come once the drawer is together. All the movement will be T/B and I tried to get that to fit snug. I'll still make them baggy so the drawers slide in/out easily.

sneaking up on it

This is the right drawer and the first one I did not do it right on the fit up and I definitely went overboard planing it after it was glued together. This time I fitted this front a frog hair off snug.

much better

There is almost zero daylight on the four sides. The right side of the drawer isn't square and I'm curious as to how this side will be when I glue up the drawer?

 almost an oops....

I had to take one more swipe and that dropped the front down into the opening almost flush. I think I just squeaked by on this one - one more and I think I would crying now.

 drawer sides
When I reviewed the drawer front fitting sequence I noticed that there was also an article on sequencing the sides. I didn't use it on mine sides. I planed them so they just slid in/out with a wee bit of friction.

The backs I didn't saw to width. I'll do that after I plow the groove for the bottom in the drawer front. I need that done before I can saw the back - I'm also using slips on these drawers.

the back

I have the drawer fronts installed and the sides butting up against them. The sides will go forward by 3/4" for the half blind dovetails so I'll have about 5/8" space at the ends.

 done

Labeled the drawers for dovetailing and I'll start on that in the AM. 

 closing in on this one

Drawers and a door are all that need to be done to call this done. Fingers crossed that I do a better job on these drawers.

accidental woodworker

Estate Sale Finds - Part 2

Woodworking in a Tiny Shop - Wed, 12/11/2024 - 4:57pm

This is the second post about some tools I found at a couple of estate sales back in August.  Last week I wrote about the boring tools: brace, bits and an auger bit extension.  This post is about the three chisels in the lot.

The tools I got at two estate sales

Of the three chisels in the picture, the two smaller ones were made by Swedish maker E. A. Berg, the "Eskilstuna" brand.  Both are about 7/8" across the edge.  Remarkably, they were found at two different estate sales (and on the same day)!  You'd think I'd find them together!  These made me think of a guy in my tool collectors club, Jeppe Eskilsson, who died unexpectedly during the pandemic.  He was an avid collector of, and had tons of knowledge about, Swedish tools.  I enjoyed talking to him and wish I had spent more time with him.

I made a handle for the handle-less Berg chisel, just a simple shape.  But as I was rehabbing that chisel, I found that the blade had a serious crack in it.

E. A. Berg 7/8" chisel

The logo

The crack from the flat face ...

... and shown on the beveled side

Handled and sharpened

Due to the crack, I'll never use this chisel with a hammer or mallet, but it sharpened up nicely and can pare like nobody's business.

Paring end grain with the freshly sharpened Berg chisel

The second Berg chisel is a much heavier duty square-sided "firmer" chisel.  It has the same logo as the bevel-edged Berg chisel.  It's got a steel ring at the back end and this chisel has been bashed by hammers many, many times in its life.

E. A. Berg 7/8" firmer chisel

Unfortunately heavy pitting on the flat side

A stout steel ring at the back end

Got a nice mirror finish after flattening and sharpening

I had to spend a lot of time flattening this one to get down past the pitting.  It also required that I remove about 1/8" from the length to get past some unevenness and deeper pitting.  And because the chisel was fairly thick, it took quite a while on the hand crank grinder to create a new bevel.

This flat at this tip shows how much I had to grind back from the edge

The third chisel is a 2" bevel edged chisel with the mark "YALE" on it.  I tried to research this, but got conflicting results.  I found on eBay a chisel box labelled "C. I. Yale Mfg. Co., successors to G. I. Mix & Co., Yalesville, Conn, USA".  But I dead ended there.  There is also the Yale Lock Company, who've been around for many decades.  The logo on the chisel does not appear to be the same as logos used by the Yale Lock Mfg. Co., which later became the Yale and Towne Mfg. Co. that apparently made (and still makes) fork lifts.  But these Yale companies were founded by Linus Yale, so not the same as that C. I. Yale Mfg. Co.  Someone suggested that a known manufacturer could have made chisels for Yale Lock and stamped Yale's name and logo on it.  I'm guessing that's the case.

Anyway, this chisel had quite a side-to-side belly on it's flat side and it took a LOT of time and effort to flatten it.  But eventually it got there and sharpened up nicely.  Its handle had been broken off and apparently someone kept using the chisel with the tip of the handle still in the socket.  The broken handle had been hammered into the socket so much that not only was it very tough to remove, but also the rim of the socket was seriously deformed.  I filed the rim reasonably smooth and made a new handle for it.

The logo

As found: tip of handle hopelessly bashed into the socket

Drilled a hole and put in a screw to try to pull out the handle's tip (to no avail)

I had to drill out the handle's remains and followed up with a metal pick to pry loose some debris.  Filling the socket with water for several hours helped loosen the fibers and eventually I got it cleaned out.  But look at the rim of the socket!

Totally deformed from years of pounding from a metal hammer

And here it is after filing the rim

I made a new handle with the "London Pattern" from some scrap wood.  Fitting the tapered tip into the chisel's socket was fit/pare/fit/pare/fit/pare and repeat. because the interior of the socket was anything but a regular cone shape.  I marked the inside of the socket with sharpie to gauge progress and eventually got a good tight fit.

Turning an octagonal blank to the London pattern on the bungee lathe

Fit the end into the socket to find where it rubs more and file/rasp those marks away

This is the very tip of the chisel handle: it shows how out-of-round the hole was

The finished handle before the shellac finish, shown here next to a 1 1/2" chisel

Handle with shellac, then wax; edge sharpened

These chisels cleaned up nicely.  Aside from the bevel-edged Berg chisel with the big crack in it, they will be nice users.  But even that one should be useful for lighter paring work.  I shudder to think what might have become of these had I not seen them in a cabinet at those sales.  Probably the scrap heap, and that would have been a shame!

Seeking Testers for Suction Controller Prototype

Flair Woodworks - Wed, 12/11/2024 - 2:30pm

Over the last couple years, I have been developing a product that controls the suction going to two ports. Though the working name has changed over the course of development, I am currently calling it “Suction Controller”.

Primary Purpose

The Suction Controller is designed to be used with a vacuum and two hoses, and its primary purpose is to allow a user to rapidly control suction between the two hoses. This is useful when a single operator is switching between two tools with two different hoses (e.g. saw and sander).

Secondary Purpose

The Suction Controller can also be set to split the suction between both ports in any ratio. This is useful to one user operating a tool with two dust ports (e.g. router with above and below dust shrouds), or two users operating two tools simultaneously that do not require the full force of suction (e.g. sanders). It can also be used to “bleed” excess suction away from the one hose being used if the suction produced by the vacuum is too strong.

Known Compatibility/Non-Compatibility

I have been testing it with my Festool CT 26 dust extractor, which uses 50 millimetre fittings.

Sampling has also indicated that it works with many 2-1/2 inch vacuum fittings, for example, Lee Valley’s 2-1/2 inch EVA Hose and Splice fit very well.

On the other hand, due to the size and shape of its body, the Suction Controller does not fit directly into the older style of Festool CT Midi with a port in the corner.

How to Become a Tester of the Suction Controller

If, after reviewing the above information, you feel that you would be a good tester, please send me an email and I will be in touch with the next steps. You can also write with any questions you have. My email is Chris@Flairwoodworks.com.

Thanks for reading!

Printer Stand 2: Carcase and Pre-oiling panels

JKM Woodworking - Wed, 12/11/2024 - 8:50am

I went ahead and finished the panels before working on the rest. Of the four boards making the two panels, one had a lot of tearout. I tried planing with a jointer or smoother, scraping, hand sanding, etc. and had to settle for not getting it all.

tearout
sanding dust collects in defects showing where to keep scraping

Maybe ‘finished’ isn’t the right word. I oiled them. In this case I used some refined linseed oil meant for artists, my first time using it. I applied two coats over a few minutes and then wiped off what little was left 10-15 minutes later. It had several days to cure while I worked on the rest.

oiled vs raw panel

I think this will serve the purpose of not having an unfinished line showing as the panel expands and contracts. Later I will spray the entire carcase with shellac or lacquer.

Jumping ahead in time to show the oiled side against the unfinished legs and rails:

oiled panel in unfinished frame

Most of the rest of the carcase will be secondary wood. The most important dimension is their thickness which I planed to fit into the already made dados.

poplar stock for drawer dividers
fitting drawer guides

These pieces are dominoed and glued to make U-shaped pieces. The front ends are trapped in the stopped dados and will only be glued. The backends will be glued and screwed to the leg. The curve is made to allow using shorter screws.

fitting drawer guides, back view

I marked the legs to taper to 1/2 their thickness at the bottom. The bulk was removed with the bandsaw.

waste from tapering legs
cut well outside the line

At this point I decided to fill the grooves on the sides housing the panels. I knew they would be present and thought that with the taper of the legs and the angle you’re looking at the piece they wouldn’t be noticeable. But I decided it was better to fill them now than regret not filling them later.

grooves at bottom that need filling?

So I found some strips of walnut, planed them to fit, and glued them in place. I could have saved a step or two and done this before bandsawing the feet in the first place.

filler strips glued in place

After this I cleaned up the feet by planing to the line and cleaning up any tearout with a card scraper.

filler not visible from 10 feet away

With the feet made, I glued up the sides with the panels first. This wouldn’t interfere with any fitting of the drawer guides and rails.

With the drawer supports made I had four more rails to fit. Top and bottom front rails will be visible and made of walnut. Two back rails are scrap butternut. Joinery for these rails are either pocket screws or dominos, whatever worked out easiest.

In the following picture you can see the bottom rail is a strip of walnut glued to the front of the lowest drawer divider:

almost ready for assembly

I glued up with titebond liquid hide glue. I fastened all the screws loosely and then tightened them after clamping. Here we are glued and clamped:

glued up

The front is pointed toward the ceiling. You can see how the walnut top and bottom rails extend out about 3/4″ past the poplar guides. The goal is to have the guides hidden and have only drawer fronts visible between the top and bottom rail.

It’s hard to assess how square everything is with all of the clamps in the way. If anything is seriously out of square I can soften the joints and wrench it into shape later. For now the front where the drawers goes seems ok. I put the top on to make sure it fits and see how much overhang I have to work with:

case with top

The next steps are to make the drawers one at a time. The drawer sides may be basswood or poplar and the bottoms will probably be plywood. I have butternut drawer fronts ready.

butternut drawer fronts
Categories: General Woodworking

Pages

Subscribe to Norse Woodsmith aggregator - General Woodworking