General Woodworking

shaker knobs

I got these quick. The top bag on the left has the largest knobs and they are ones that I don't use often. The top right bag has the size I use the most and they are cherry. I didn't realize that until I checked on the delivery and saw they were cherry. The bottom bag has small knobs with 1/4" tenons. After I eyeballed it, I think they are something I probably won't use much of. 

I will check the site off and on to replace the cherry ones. I prefer maple or birch over cherry.

certificate frame

Laid out the position of the dowels and drilled them.

dry fit

No rocking which put a happy face on me. All the miters looked good dry fitted. 

glued and cooking

I did two dry clamps runs first before I glued it up. One corner froze on me and there were a few anxious moments before the clamps pulled it tight. There was a slight misalignment on two miters but they will flush up easily. I anticipate zero problems with them.

Declaration frame

Got the back frame on the Declaration frame. I like this method because the framed object is set back from the front of the frame. It draws your eye into the frame to look at what is framed. I'll wash, rinse, and repeat this with the certificate frame in the AM.

Spent another day making multiple trips to the shop not spending more than 20 minutes a session. Yesterday was tough because I spent most of the afternoon having coughing fits that drained me of my strength. No fits today so far and I have my fingers and toes crossed.

It is looking like this is going to be my shop schedule for the foreseeable future. The coughing fits yesterday blew up the fluid to close the size it was when I left the hospital. I am also getting winded quick. Going up the stairs is not easy and once I'm up in the living room I have to sit and catch my breath and recover. 

accidental woodworker

Back in February I got this small incannel gouge at a tool show.  I cleaned it up and sharpened it at the time, but I didn't really put it through its paces until recently.  When I  sharpened it, I knew something wasn't right.  I just couldn't seem to get a good consistent edge.  It sat on a shelf until this week waiting for me to look more deeply into it.

New Haven Edge Tool Co.

The curve of the gouge is part of a 9/16" diameter circle (9/32" radius).  The cutting edge measures 7/16" corner to corner.  The handle is clearly a user-made job, and it had come loose while I was working on it, so I made a new one.

When I tried sharpening the gouge, something wasn't right.  The wire edge that forms would get too large and end up flaking off more metal than it should have.  One time, when I finally got a good edge, I tried to cut some wood and the edge just crumbled.

Result of using the gouge lightly.  Can you see the chip in the edge?

I figured the tool had lost its temper somewhere along the line.  So I annealed it by heating to cherry red and plunging into a bag of vermiculite to allow the heat to dissipate slowly.

My heat-treating set-up: two torches pointing at a steel can. The gouge is stuck in the vermiculite at left.

After it had cooled, I hardened and tempered the gouge.  This was the first time I tried to temper a tool by watching the color advance towards the cutting edge.  When the edge got to a straw color, I plunged it into oil to stop the tempering.

You can see the colors here on the convex side of the gouge

After cleaning up the blackened and discolored steel, I gave it a good sharpening.  But I got an equally crumbly edge!  I'm aware that when heat-treating an edge tool that has a sharp edge, the thin cutting edge can get overly brittle.  So I ground back a couple of millimeters and re-sharpened it.  This time I finally got a good cutting edge without crumbling.  I tested it on some end grain walnut and finally didn't ruin the edge after just a single or even multiple cuts.

Testing on end grain walnut

When I was satisfied that the steel was in good enough condition to warrant a new handle, I got a chunk of cherry, sketched a pattern on some cardboard and got out the bungee lathe.  The shape didn't come out exactly how I had planned, but it'll be fine.

Showing the new handle and the lathe set-up

This was my first time re-handling a tanged tool.  To fit the tang into the cherry handle, I drilled successively bigger holes at successively shallower depths.  I had to adjust the hole a bit to get the gouge to align better with the handle.  I used the brass ferrule from the original handle, which had a 5/8" outer diameter and just shy of 9/16" inner diameter.  It was very satisfying when I tapped the handle home up to the bolster.

New handle next to the original

I gave the handle a single coat of BLO, which really brought out the color of the cherry.  Another tool in the arsenal.

Completed

I was pleasantly surprised that the Museum of Modern Art was open on July 4th, when it was a million degrees in my apartment and most other activities were closed for the holiday. I figured the museum would at least have good air conditioning. Evidently I was not the only one with this idea. The place was fairly crowded, with art lovers and natives and World Cup tourists alike.

One of the high points of the visit was seeing furniture made by Frederick Kiesler (18901965) an architect who immigrated to the US from the Austro-Hungarian Empire in the late 1920s. Although Kiesler didn't have much of an impact commercially in furniture design, he did design some important buildings and some landmark furniture.

The Kiesler work shown here are the original Surrealist-inspired "Multi-Use Chairs" that Kiesler designed in 1942 for Peggy Guggenheim's "Art of This Century" gallery in New York. The chairs are made of linoleum clad oak. The original materials bill was $9 each. Depending on how you flipped or stacked the chairs, each unit could also serve as a rocker, table, bench, sculpture pedestal, easel, or painting support. Kiesler claimed 18 distinct uses (which might be hyperbole, as the show included no official list). The idea is that depending on the gallery and the usage, you could reconfigure the same furniture for different uses.

How practical or comfortable these pieces are I have no idea - the museum did not welcome visitors to take a load off their feet. I don't know if the materials used - Oak and Linoleum - were chosen because of ideological commitment to the Bauhaus movement's veneration of common materials, or if Kiesler was being practical and frugal and therefore took some solid oak flooring (that looks like it was repurposed from something else) and some linoleum was just handy, fit the budget, and got his point about form and function across. Nine bucks for materials even in 1942 was not a lot of money. These days I would think the end caps would be fancy plywood, with fancy bent veneer instead of linoleum for the sides. And at a hundred times the cost.

The pieces are too modern for Ikea. (The market for really ground breaking shapes and forms is pretty small.) And they are certainly not what Ikea specializes in (cheaply made versions of Scandinavian / Mid-century modern) but I could easily imagine something like these pieces in a modern apartment. They'd offer a comfortable conversation piece, if nothing else. Unfortunately I couldn't find any drawings of how this thing is put together. AI bot Claude said that a 1942 original in the Brooklyn Museum (not at MoMA) measures 29 1/8" 30 1/2" 15 5/8".

What's important is that 84 years after their introduction, the pieces still look modern and avant-garde, and a striking departure from what most people imagine when you say the word "furniture." And more importantly: the work isn't an evolution of an existing design vocabulary, much less a stop on a recognizable tour of furniture design movement with Colonial, Shaker, Arts & Crafts, mid-century Modern/Danish modern/Ikea, etc. It really is a new approach. They are wildly original.

The lesson for all of us is that our design approach and what we build are always influenced by our training, budget, and history. Coming up with anything good that is also actually new is hard. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't try. But at the same time, recognize your influences. It is perfectly excellent to design something where you take a known design and push it into something you like, with better construction, materials, and more appropriate design for the intended space. But it's also worthwhile to occasionally go all the way out to left field, and pluck a design from space.



You see what I mean about repurposed materials

 

much rejoicing in Mudville

The Declaration frame has cooked and it is laying flat on the tablesaw. No rocking from any corner tapping.

new home

This is where the hardware dresser will live for the time being. The empty hole to the right of is for the sanding block box.

sigh

The lid for the sanding block box went south on me. I couldn't believe that I had done this because the screws hardly any purchase at all in the lid. I'll have to put new hinges on this.

stop hinges

I like these hinges because they have a built in 90° stop. They will be surface mounted to the lid and the back of the box.

hmm.....

Found an immediate use for the first Declaration frame. Dug the sapele frame out of the shitcan to serve as patterns.

wee bit long

There isn't that much waste using these to make the certificate frame for my wife. Initially I was going to use a 5/4 cherry board but I'll use these instead. For some reason I thought that these were sapele.

couldn't wait

I had to see how this frame looked after a quick clean up. Flushed the corners, front and back, and did a light sanding with 120. Happy with how it looks. The plan is to keep it simple looking with just chamfers on the inside and outside edges.

kept going

This frame has some birds eye figure but not on each side. This face has 3 and the other has only two. IMO it is a crap shoot as to which one faces out. Most likely I'll go with the face that has 3 if I remember it. 

temporary home

I need a couple of more thin strips to make the back frame for the Declaration, the glass, and the mat. That will probably get done in the AM.

dutchmen

I glued in shims to flush the mortises - I had to do that before I could screw through the hinge into the box/lid.

sigh

The drill bit for my #3 Vix bit broke. I can't complain because I've had my Vix bit set for about 40 years. I got my money's worth plus more. I wonder if replacement bits are still available? 

certificate frame

I did some rearranging of the parts. One long side had cathedral grain while the other 3 are mostly straight grained. I want this frame to be seamless grain wise 360.

Had my oncology appointment where the RN explained to me what to expect with each treatment. There weren't too many surprises and everything looks to be manageable. She explained to me how important my white blood count and red blood count is before each treatment. If it goes too low I can't get the treatment. I'll deal with it as it comes - first treatment is on the 21st.

accidental woodworker 

 

sigh

Didn't get a pic of it but this frame was toast, as in burnt toast. The frame was badly twisted - 3 of the corners rocked. First time I had seen that. I was pissed and whacked the frame on the tablesaw and one corner opened up. Kept whacking it until all the corners came undone. 

nope

My first thought as to why the frame was so twisted was the miters weren't square to the face. They weren't all perfectly dead nuts but nowhere near being the cause of the twist. 
 

yikes

Checked the first one for twist and there was a ton of it. The thought to check the board before ripping out the frame never lit a bulb in the brain bucket. 

1 for 4

The three on the left are twisted, with the longest one the worse. The lone one on the right is twist free. I know understand how and why the frame was toast. The miters were all dead nuts 45 but 3 sides were twisted. When I glued it up I compounded the twist by gluing the sides into 90° corners.

2nd sapele board

The twist in this board is horrendous. It is beyond the 4 lines on the back stick. It didn't look like it was twisted - I thought it was cupped but not twisted. The board I ripped the frame out of must have been twisted too. I didn't feel any binding or the saw blade stalling when I ripped them out. Doesn't matter as the frame was tossed into the burn pile.

needs one more

Never got the 4th and final coat of shellac on the dresser yesterday. Wasn't sure if I would get it today neither. I had already been to the shop twice, staying for less than 30 minutes before heading topside again. The swelling/fluid build up is driving me nutso. My wife thinks I am doing too much and I should be more sedentary and even spend time in the afternoons laying in bed. I'm trying the sedentary part but not the afternoon part.

Declaration frame

Got the frame dry fitted and it isn't rocking. I checked each side of the frame for twist and there was none. I had to cut the dowel pins again, they were too long.

success

On the 4th trip to the shop I glued up the Declaration frame. After I glued it up I took it out of the clamps and checked it laying flat again - it passed with flying colors. Clamped it back up again and left it to cook until the AM.

5th and final trip

Got the 4th and final coat on. I looked around the shop for a hole for this and nada. The only spot that looks promising is the sharpening bench. I'll have to rearrange some things but I might be able to squeeze it in.

accidental woodworker 

 

fixing a missed step

I didn't plane a reference edge before I ripped the cherry frame to width. All four of them were uneven - they had humps that didn't line up. Went back to square one and planed one edge flat, straight, and square to the reference face. Still making me-steaks that bite me on the arse.

sigh

This was the 4th attempt to make the frame for the Declaration. I kept missing getting the length of the sides correct. I kept screwing up the inside and outside lengths. This frame is ok - ish but not correct. The mat would be less than 1" all the way around and I want it to be a minimum of 1 1/2".

I got the reference edge and ripped all the parts to the same width. I like the look of a thinner frame. One miter was off when I checked it with Mr Starrett. I had to redone both of the two short sides to fix the errant miter.

last one

Made a command decision and put the current frame aside and ripped out 4 new frame parts (with reference edges). I did two miters on the left and the other two on the right. All 8 miters were dead on 45 according to Mr Starrett.

shoulda, woulda, coulda, but didn't

This is how I should have measured the frame from the git go. The inside measurement for the short leg was 15 3/8" plus 3 1/2" for the mat. No me-steaks this time. I thought of doing this but I was concerned about it getting dirty. Turned out that wasn't a problem.

hmm.......

I've always been curious of this kind of mitered returns. My 4" Starrett said the two outside corners were dead on 90°.

the certificate frame

Got the dowels drilled - made sure that I set the dowel jig the same at each miter. I had set it so the dowel holes were slightly off center.

nope

The bar clamps drew up the miters tight. All the toes and heels aligned but I couldn't get the clamps to lay flat on the tablesaw. As I tightened them, it would pull it off the table. I didn't want a twisted frame. 

laying flat now

Switched to the besseys and the frame is laying flat. The frame is tight to the clamp bars and it is laying flat on the tablesaw. It doesn't seem to have the twist that the bar clamps had.

cooler today

The four day heat wave is gone and the highest temp in the shop hit 81F - 27C. A lot better than the living room which hovered in the low 90's F for the past 4 days. Today it got up to 85F and with a fan blowing it wasn't that bad. Not perfect but tolerable.

Declaration frame

I will glue up this frame in the AM. I only have 5 bessey clamps so I have to wait until the other frame has cooked. I plan to keep this frame simple - I am putting a small chamfer on the outside and inside edges only. 

hmm......

The two first cherry frames won't be wasted. I can use them to make two more frames. I think I'll leave them as is until I need to make one.

I'm post op now about month and I am feeling ok. Still not up to what I was before but getting a little better each day. I tend to get winded easier but the cough is way better. The bubble of fluid however, hasn't gotten the memo on healing yet. In the morning it is almost nothing. Within ten minutes of getting out of the rack and moving, it starts to fill up and grow. 

accidental woodworker 

 Had a major brain fart tonight. I thought I had written up my post but I hadn't. I deleted all the pics I would have used to write it up. I went and snapped a few after the fact pics to use. The heat wave continues and it sapped me. I didn't get a lot done today but maybe tomorrow I'll double it. The heat wave is supposed to break?

done - ish

Filled up the rest of the compartments I could. I have two coats on the dresser and the drawer fronts. When I find a new hole to stick this in I'll have to move it sans the drawers. I tried picking it up with all the drawers and my body said no way moose breath. Two more coats and this will be 100% complete.

frame for the wife

I had plans to gett this one glued and cooking but it didn't happen boys and girls. Maybe in the AM.

hmm......

This is the frame for the Declaration. Two of the miters are toast - Mr Starrett said they weren't 45. It is smaller then I wanted it to be but still doable. Nobody will ever know any difference.  

I'll redo the the two errant 45s which make the frame even a little bit more smaller. I noticed when sawing the 45s on the sled that I had to clamp them down on to the jig. I think I missed clamping the two errant 45s.

test miter

I made this one to test/check that the dowels I used won't interfere with routing that I plan to do on the outside and inside edges of the frame. To help out further I used two, one inch dowels. I didn't have problems closing up the miter when I clamped it. 

I don't know the name of the profile I plan to use on the outside but it is about 7/8" wide and 3/8" deep. The inside molding will be a shallow chamfer. The test miter sides are the same width as the Declaration frame. I don't think I'll need to make a test miter for the wife's frame. There is only an 1/8" difference in the width between the two.

accidental woodworker 

At last I’m back with an update. A lot has happened over the past few months. I’ve been working on our renovation project pretty much nonstop, aside from a few breaks for some small commissions and teaching. But the big project dominating my time this year has been renovating our kitchen, and I’ll share the… Read More »Old Doma Demo

The post Old Doma Demo appeared first on Big Sand Woodworking.

Well, this is another long video but so, so much to get through!

The bridge is made and I have brief chat about its design, the strings go on and I show you how I set-up my mandolins. And finally……..the New Model Mandolin gets to sing its first notes!

So, cuppa at the ready and off we go.

Cheers Gary

switched

The metal knobs were too large (IMO) for the dresser drawers. Decided to use one shaker knob per drawer. All of the tenons on the knobs were about a 64th over 3/8".

quick jig

The tenon length was 3/4" and the drawer fronts were a 1/2". This jig allowed me to saw the length to a little less than a 1/2".

done

I centered the knobs on each drawer front and it looks good to my eye. I found a site that sells shaker knobs. It is wood-dowel dot com. I was able to get three of the sizes I use the most. The one size that wasn't available was the largest but I don't use that size often. I'll check back on it occasionally to see if they pop up.

hmm.......

I have 31 containers to transfer to the drawers. I have 51 compartments available to fill up. There are 7 containers that are wood screws that I am not putting in the hardware dresser. I intend to put machine and metal screws only along with washers, nuts, etc.

new frame project

I don't remember where I saw this but it was (email?) about a printer who makes paper like they did in the 1770s. He printed copies of this Declaration using the font and printing methods from this time period. I'll be making a frame for this and another for a certificate my wife wants framed.

heavy

I didn't realize how much weight the hardware would impart on the drawers. I'll keep an eye on it and see if it makes the drawer runners sag.

found more

I found 5 cardboard boxes of wood screws. I remember these being left over from a McFeely's order from many, many moons ago.

There is a heat wave in its 3rd day in my part of the universe. It hit 97F - 36C  at my house today. It kinda sapped me and I didn't do anything in the PM session except to start filling up the dresser. All that is left to do on the dresser is to fit the base molding and slap on a few coats of shellac. Hoping to get that done in the AM and start on the two new pic frames.

accidental woodworker 

dry fitted

Feeling a little better today, still sore and painful with movement, but I could manage it. Chopping the pins took me almost an hour. A concession on my part to minimize antagonizing the pain center. It laid flat on the bench with no rocking but the tails and pins weren't fully seated. 

last one

I didn't forget to do the cutout for the base. Clamped two sides together and drilled a 1" hole. 

one more last thing

Used rasps to smooth out the undulations for the bandsaw. A few swipes with 100 grit and all four were done.

happy face on

A quick check to ensure the dresser fit within the base.

hmm.......

Needed some help closing up the tails and pins. It took me almost 2 hours to get to this point. Before surgery I don't think this would have taken me more than 30 minutes. I am getting a wee bit faster but still not anywhere near where I was prior to surgery.

done

Evened and smoothed the four sides of the base with the #3. A quick sand with 80 grit finished the base.

oops

A mind fart - I made the base on this side out to the outside edge of the molding. It should have been shortened to match the side of the dresser.

hmm......

This cove molding is too tall - The bottom drawer can't open. The bearers are set down 1/8" from the top. If the bottom rails on the dresser had been 3/4" thick the cove molding would have fit but the front and back bottom rails are 1/2" thick.

problem

I didn't want to make another base to fit the dresser. Instead the plan is to put this piece of flat pine at the back covering up the gap.

hmm.......

I had a smaller molding but I didn't want to use it. If fits and the bottom drawer clears it and opens/closes freely. The moldings will only go on 3 sides. It will butt into the flat stock and be mitered at the front.

just needs knobs

I glued the dresser to the bearers. The dresser is barely on the back one so just the front and the sides will carry the weight.

too big

Ten of these 1 3/6" knobs for $2.52 and it is too big for the smallest drawer. It is barely small enough to fit on the 4 larger drawers. Rethinking whether or not to switch back to the shaker knobs. One option is to use a small shaker knob for the top drawer and the metal ones for the other four?

When I enlisted in the Navy in October of 1974 I was 5' 11" and 221 lbs. On my oncology appointment this week I weighed 251 but I had shrunk to 5' 7 3/8". I don't feel shorter and nurse said around age 25 we all start to shrink. I had noticed this over the years but I thought it was faulty measuring equipment. It ain't so boys and girls.

The pain in my left side is getting better as in less painful. I still have a stubborn bubble of fluid on the center of my chest and lower left rib cage. It hasn't changed in size for several days. My heart rate is normalized somewhat. It is now in the high 60s to middle 70s. Still high for me, I usually have a resting heart beat of 45-50. For several days now it hasn't gone nutso racing up to 120 to 130. I still think the fluid bubble is the cause for my heart rate headaches.

accidental woodworker 

DON'T TOUCH YOUR PLOW PLANE until... Affiliate Disclosure: When you purchase through certain links on our site, we may earn a small affiliate commission, at no cost to you. Learn more. DON'T TOUCH

 Last night after dinner I experienced a new pain that turned me into stone. There was an intense pain on my lower left side. It was a constant, heavy pain that didn't go away. It said hello with every movement I made, especially so with my left arm. The night was fitful but I did manage to sleep for a couple of hours. By morning the pain had subsided some but movement still woke up the pain. 

I thought I was at the apex of healing/feeling good and sliding down the other side. I spent most of the day sitting at desk watching You Tube. I picked vids that played for a long time because moving the mouse sucked pond scum. I watched hours of The Joy of Painting.

Around 1300 I was feeling a bit better and wandered down to the shop. That turned out to be a me-steak. By the time I decided to kill the lights I had just finished a 5 minute coughing fit. That didn't feel good and it is something I wanted to avoid at all costs.

hmm.......

The back stop thing had cooked and nothing moved when I took the clamps. Yesterday when I put this here it wasn't a problem. Today when I picked it up to move it to the sharpening bench, I felt it. There was a tugging sensation in the left side of my chest. 

stopped chamfer

This looks good IMO. If the chamfer had run out to the end I think it would have been too close to the end of the back stop.

didn't make

Initially I felt good and I thought I could get the pins/tails done and dry fitted. Almost but no cigar. I sawed the pins but couldn't chop them. Maybe tomorrow I'll feel a bit better and I can finish the dovetailing.

I went with a single tail because two half pins and one tail would have been too thin IMO. For a base this will work without any hiccups.

accidental woodworker

Until now, I've stored the irons for my wooden plow plane in a roll that gets put in a drawer.  The roll wasn't some multiple-compartment, fancy leather gizmo; it was nothing more than an old kitchen towel.  The irons deserved better, so I made a box for them.

For whatever reason, I often get stuck on design.  I looked online and found a few images of plow plane iron boxes.  They typically were vertical boxes with a lid that hinged to the side and each iron stands on end in its own slot.  While I liked that, I was having a tough time in my head with grain direction of the parts as well as methods of construction.  In the end I decided on a flat-ish box with a horizontal compartment for each iron.  The box has a sliding lid.  It's got 9 compartments; 8 for the set of irons I bought for the plane and an extra for the iron that came with the plane.

Two 10" long sides and a 6" long front and back

Dovetailed and dry fit

1/8" grooves were made top and bottom, starting 1/8" from the edges

Then (8) 1/8" dadoes were cut into the front and back

Cutting dadoes this small can be a real challenge, but it went much quicker after gaining some experience.  I used my homemade mini router plane to get the bottoms to depth.

The bottom of the box fits into the grooves in the sides, front and back.  It's just shy of 1/4" thick, so I rabbeted the edges to fit the grooves.

Getting ready to rabbet using the moving fillister

Here's the box's bottom rabbeted

Here's dry-fitting the bottom

1/8" hardboard dividers in the dry-fitted box

In this picture, you can see that I've cut down the box's front piece to allow the sliding lid to get in its grooves.  It started out the same width as the back for easier marking and cutting during the dovetailing and grooving stages.

Sliding lid

Two more details: the dividers were shaped to allow easier grabbing of the irons, and a thumb catch was carved into the lid to make the box easier to open.

The shaped dividers, with irons in place

Thumb catch on the lid

The glue-up was OK, though I initially messed up - even after a few dry-fits.  The order of putting the components together was key to get it glued up properly.  I gave the box a few coats of shellac on all outside surfaces, with none on the inside.

Here's one last detail.  The front edge of the box's top has a piece of wood glued to its end grain.  This hides the entry grooves and makes the front of the box look nicer.  I realize it a cross grained glue-up, but I've done this before on a similar box which has held up for about five years now.

Glamour shot

And with the lid partially open

Good little project.  The plow plane irons deserved a home of their own.  Now I just have to figure out where the box will live in my cramped shop.

 

last night

Got the bottom glued and nailed first. Then I sawed the dividers and installed them. One corner of the drawer was up slightly so I weighed it down with paint cans overnight.

hmm......

This plastic container came with 100 screws - it now has 92. It fit in 3 of the compartments I checked. Note to self - next dresser comes with 12 compartments.

off cuts

These off cuts are from when I thinned the drawer parts to a 1/2" thick. They are a wee bit wider and longer then the drawer fronts. Not only would they cover the plywood bottom, they will cover the dovetails.

first drawer

Squeezed in getting the off cuts glued onto the five drawer fronts. I'll be able to play with them when I get back home from the VA.

3 down, 2 to go

The glue up went off without any hiccups. One drawer will require some wood putty work. One corner of the drawer front has a big chip missing.

confirmed

I had set the miter gauge but almost an inch too much. Maybe I'll get lucky and find some odd shaped/long hardware that will fit in these compartments.

sneak peek

I think the veneer looks better than the original drawer front. The top drawer doesn't have the color streak the other 4 drawers have. It didn't occur to me that I could have used a cut off from one of the wider drawers. I was stuck on stupid thinking I could only use the cut off from the thinnest drawer (which didn't have a color streak).

hmm.......

Decided to leave the drawer fronts slightly proud at the front. They are all about the same with the bottom drawer sticking out a few frog hairs more than the others.

losing less than 1/8"

I sawed a bit off the back of all the drawers to even out the amount of proud of the drawers. After I did this I evened out the proud by eye by planing the off cuts I glued to the drawer fronts. 

done

I thought of building out the front of the dresser but nixed it. The proud of the drawers is a little less then 1/8". The amount of the proud doesn't look out of place or odd (IMO) when viewed from the sides.

chamfer done

Did a stopped chamfer - it would have looked crowded against the back stop thing if I had gone to end.

hmm......

Checked my shaker knob supply and this depletes it. I have just enough to put two knobs on each drawer, with either size. I think the drawers are small enough that I could get away with one knob per drawer. This is what I would like to use but maybe not. 

I had bought some blackish knobs on sale at Lowes specifically to use on this dresser. I think I'll use them instead and save my limited supply of shaker knobs for something else.

hmm......

I don't want a three sided base. I want it to go 360 but in order to do that I need to clip the molding holding the back. I sawed it so the bottom of the molding was even with the top of the back rail.

sigh

Made a Lowes run and bought two 1x8 pine boards. Somehow I did a mind meld with a rock and managed to screw up the long sides of the base. 

for tomorrow

Ripped out two new long sides - double, triple checked them correct. Laid out the base cut out for tomorrow. Ran out of gas again. I was feeling tired and I have learned not to work when I feel this way. I'll get back to this in the AM.

The oncology appointment went well. Met with the doc and I'll be doing one treatment of chemo. It will consist of 4 treatments 3 weeks apart. After that I go on a surveillance regimen with MRI s and CT s to monitor my body checking for a recurrence of the lung cancer. 

The important thing with the chemo is this is it. There won't be a follow up chemo round. The doc said because I am only getting 4 treatments that it is rare to get any lingering chemo side effects. And I can say No Mas at any time with it. 

accidental woodworker 

 

dry fitted dividers

I applied glue to the underside only. I didn't put any glue on the vertical ends.

hmm......

The dividers were a frog hair off but there is enough flexibility in 1/8" plywood to align them with the grooves. Decided to fit each drawer I've done so far rather than wait until all five are glued and cooked.

layout for the half laps

With the nine compartment layout I only have to layout for one end. I set the distance for it, sawed it, and then flipped it 180 to saw the other end.

fitting

First step was to flush the 1/8" plywood all the way around. It is getting easier to fit drawers. The key for me is one, take my time. And two, look at the fit of the drawer from the front and the rear. Thirdly, don't go nutso and take too many shavings at once.

one down, four to go

I am not that thrilled with the look of the plywood bottom. I glued it to the bottom because I didn't want the bottom inset in grooves. I also didn't want to give the little bit of real estate that would have eaten up. I have been eyeballing the off cuts from sawing the drawers to a 1/2" thick - I can glue it on the fronts and cover the 1/8" plywood bottoms.

hmm.......

Wasn't expecting this. I thought it would have been closer to flush. My first thought on fixing it is too saw the proud off the back of the drawer.

how?

This was making me scratch the bald spot on the roof raw. I don't know how the compartments on this drawer are different sizes.

?????

I laid out the dividers the same for both drawers but one is correct (left) and one wandered out into La La Land. It looks like I screwed up setting the stop on the miter gauge.

3 fitted

So far the first 3 drawers have about the same amount of proud.

3 down, two more to go

From the front I kind of like the proud look of the drawer fronts. The problem is what and how do I deal with the look from the sides?

#4 dry fitted

It was looking like I might get all five drawers at least glued and cooking before quitting time.

yikes

Made two boo boos with drawer #4. The first was I ripped one side a wee bit too much. Not a problem because the bottom of the drawer is flush - this gap will be on the side. I wanted it at the back but it ended up here. 

The 2nd boo boo was the side split when I glued it up. I thumped it with my fist while seating the tail/pin and it gave up the ship. I glued the split and the 1/8" plywood bottom will bridge the split and keep the side together.

drawer #4

The last two drawers will have 12 compartments. A little bit of apprehension that I did the half laps right and it would fit in the drawer.

drawer #4

I think I should have gone with 12 compartments for all of the drawers. If a plastic container  will fit in one of the 12, I'll be golden.

one left

Drawer #4 took longer to fit then the other 3. I think it was because of the 12 dividers which aren't that easy to plane and knock down. Got it done and it opens and closes freely.

drawer #5

This drawer was rocking a little bit. The paint cans flattened the drawer.  After ten minutes I removed the cans to check it. The drawer stayed flat on the workbench. I put the cans back on the let it cook. 

I'll be done with this in the AM. All that is left to do is to make the base which I don't have any stock for.  I used the base stock to get the drawers from. I'll have to make a Lowes run to get some pine for that.

I have an appointment with oncology tomorrow at 1000. I still haven't made up mind about the possibility of having to do chemo. Losing my hair I don't care if it happens. I don't want any nerve damage that would interfere with my woodworking. I'll find out what the game plan is in the AM.

accidental woodworker  

 Last night was the first one since the surgery that I slept through the night. I didn't wake up until 0750. It felt wonderful waking up refreshed and not tired and wanting to roll over and  go back to sleep. Posted the blog a little after 0800 which is a wee bit late for me. I think the blog posting may be erratic until I am mended and feeling 100%.

I am feeling better. The cough is up and down - some days I cough a lot and others I don't. The burning sensation from coughing is almost all gone. One annoying thing left  lingering is the fluid build up. It has decreased a lot but there is one bubble that refuses to go away.  The doc said that it might be 6-8 weeks post op (or more) before I'm back to normal.

don't have happy thoughts

This the top shallow drawer that wasn't laying flat. I hoped that laying it flat on the tablesaw with some weight might keep flat. 

nope

It is a 1/4" off on the highest corner. The twist in this makes the drawer unusable. I have tried in the past to trying to fix something like this only to give up. Planing away the high corners would make the drawer too thin. I broke up the drawer and shitcanned. I'm starting over again at square one.

new drawer

Glad I had extras for making another drawer.

hmm.......

Thinned the drawer so it fits the opening with a 1/8" plywood bottom. I'll be doing this to the other 4 drawers too.

replacement drawer

Dry fitted and laying flat on the tablesaw. I think I had made the tails/pins a bit too snug and that is what twisted the frame.

glued and cooking

I couldn't get the drawer diagonals to agree. I tried everything I could think of but gave up. Used a couple of 90° blocks to square up the drawer.

stepping off

Used dividers to layout the grooves for the compartments.

couple of hours later

The compartments are too big now that I can see them completed. They are bigger then the plastic containers. Started to rethink the compartments and maybe going with 12 per drawer?

bottom on

I lucked on the drawer size. I have 7 sheets of 12" x 24" 1/8" plywood. I'll be able to get two bottoms out of each sheet. The dividers and the bottom will stiffen and strengthen the drawer box. That will help when I plane it to fit the opening.

drawer #2

I'll put 9 compartments in this drawer. With 5 drawers I would have 45 compartments. What I think I will go is 3 drawers with 9 and the last two with 12. That is subject to change. Half lapping the dividers for 9 compartments is way easier to do then it will be for 12.

3 down, two to go

I got the third drawer glued and cooking and ran out of gas. I am still not able to go for hours in the shop yet. I'll pick this back up in the AM.

accidental woodworker 

 

I was wrong

I had more than enough pine to get all the drawer parts. Four drawers all the same size and one drawer about 1/4" smaller. Also got lucky that depth and width of the drawers were less then 12".

extras

These are for any oops. I don't know how I missed thinking I didn't have enough stock to get all the drawer parts.

hmm.......

Got one edge flat, straight, and square. I used that to square the ends and get the length.

snug

The R/L is loose - it is about 2-3 frog hairs short. It is good enough for a parts dresser.

first drawer

I will use through dovetails at all the drawers. I thought of using half blinds but nixed it. A single dovetail is enough for drawers of this size.

for the dividers

Each drawer will have 9 compartments. I could have added more but I wanted to ensure that each plastic hardware container would fit in each compartment. Instead of using 1/4" thick poplar for the dividers I'm using 1/8" plywood.

yikes

This side split when I glued the drawer up. I glued and clamped it and it should be ok once it is cooked. I trimmed a 1/8" off all the drawer sides. I plan to glue a piece of 1/8" plywood on as the bottom. 

 Got most of this done in the AM session. I went to lunch to get  my weekly fish 'n chips because I was in West Roxbury on friday. The meal was good but I got massive attack of heart burn that turned me into a blob sitting at my desk. I felt miserable but to close out the PM session I glued up the drawer. One down and 4 to go.

accidental woodworker 

 Spent another sleepless night which translated into me rolling out of the rack a little before 0700. Got no AM shop time because I had to get ready to go to the West Roxbury VA. Got there at 1020 for my 1100 appointment.

The news is I have a 60% chance of living another 5 years. I should make at least one more xmas and fingers/toes crossed it will be a few more.

I found out that I have stage 3 cancer and the doc removed a 8 cm tumor from my left lung. He said that the tumor was stiff and difficult to pull out between my ribs - he said that he doesn't expand the ribs to facilitate the tumor removal. That is why I am sore and have the pain I have when I cough. The doc said I'm doing better than most and that I have another 3-4 weeks before the surgery effects disappear. 

I can drive which is a relief. Not being able to do that these past two weeks has sucked pond scum. The doc told me to be aware of how I turn my head/torso as it may cause a spike in pain. I'll deal with it and drive slow.

start of the PM session

We didn't leave the West Roxbury VA until 1230 and the traffic going home was horrific. What is normally an hour drive was almost 2. Before going home we stopped and had lunch at Gregg's. The only thing I wanted to do here was check on the pine test frame I made yesterday.

looks good

All the miters looked good - no gaps on the joint lines. Nothing moved, shifted, or groaned when I took the frame out of the clamps. You know the glue up is solid and strong when that happens.

dead nuts

17 11/16" on both interior diagonals. The outside diagonals were a frog hair off from each other. I couldn't twist the miters apart with my hands. I rapped the frame on the bench on each miter and nada. With past miters (no dowels/splines), the miters gave up the ship on twisting the miters. I never got to try hitting them on the workbench.

happy face

All the toes and heels are flush. There is zero misalignment on any of them. The faces on the joint line are a wee bit off but still within a frog hair.

no rocking

Neither side of the frame is rocking when pressed on any of the corners. The frame is twist free. I cleaned up both sides with my #3 hand plane.

my boo boo

With this errant hole I can't leave the frame natural. I could put a dutchman over it but that would show. Another option is to fill it with wood putty and paint it. 

better option

I like this option best. I have a lot of thin pine in the shop that I can put on the outside and the inside of the frame. It will also afford me the option of leaving it natural or painting it.

I still can't lift anything heavier then a gallon of milk. That restriction gets eased 6 weeks post op. So I won't be able to use my lunchbox planer so thinning the pine on the tablesaw is my only option for making the drawer stock. Thinking of making a run to Gurney's Saw Mill to get some 1x12 pine. Maybe they will have some 1/2" pine in stock.

accidental woodworker 

last nite after dinner

This had been in the clamps for almost 5 hours and I was anxious to see how it looked. I did some after dinner puttering in the shop.

Mr Starrett says all is good

The outside was good - not dead nuts. There was about 1/2 a frog hair of light on the left end. 

The inside was dead nuts 90

Happy with how this came out. The top face is flush along the joint line but the other face isn't. That is because the two pieces aren't exactly the same thickness. In spite of that the toes and heels are aligned which is the important thing.

hmm.......

Decided to glue the cap on the back rail before heading topside. I clipped the ends at a 22.5° angle.

glued and cooking

In the AM I can get this attached to the sled and road test it with making a frame.

start of the AM session

Flushed the test miter, top and bottom to get a better look of the joint line. Toes and heels were tight and the joint line was tight and gap free. I couldn't break the miter neither. I whacked it on the bench and nada. Tried to pry it apart with hands and again nada. Happy with this and I'll use it for the certificate frame.

laid out the miters

This is the cherry test frame that will be the first one off the miter sled.

clean up

This face needed a wee bit of flushing. After this I sanded both faces and called it done.

done

The miter sled is fini (french for finished). Not sure if I am going to finish this with shellac or anything else. I have a 90° sled that I made 5-6 years ago that I didn't finish. It still is dead on accurate.

sigh

Miters bit me on the arse again and drew blood. At least I was consistent in my screw up. I would lose too much correcting one end to make them usable. At least I didn't screw up the long legs.

hmm......

Looking at the screw up on a brighter note. All four of the miters, according to Mr Starrett, are dead on 45. Not even a teeny, teeny sliver of light escaped. The jig is far more accurate then I had expected.

new test frame

Sawed up a test frame of pine. I really wanted to make a test frame before I committed to making the real one.

joy in Mudville

All the miters aligned and closed up. This was a dry fit and I was so happy with it I could have wet myself. Based on past experiences with miters I was expecting the miters to slip by each other and not come together.

two dowels in each miter

Dry fitted again but this time with dowels in each miter. I had one boo boo with one dowel hole going straight through from the miter to the outside face.

hmm......

The toes are not aligned and it is the only one throwing a hissy fit. I tried to adjust the corners but I couldn't get the toes/heels to align at this corner.

ta da

All four corners are now dry fitted and aligned - all the toes/heels are flush and even. The clamps easily pulled the recalcitrant miter together.

glued and cooking

Had a wee bit of apprehension once the glue was applied. One corner wouldn't come together with hand pressure. Even mallet blows wouldn't close the miter. However, the clamps pulled it tight. Found out that the miter band clamp isn't needed. With the bar clamps and the dowels, the joints came together easily without worrying about slipping or shifting on the mitered faces. 

I'll have to be careful with the dowel placement. I plan on routing the outside edge and I will have to be careful with where the outside dowel is. Nothing would suck pond scum worse then the router zipping away and exposing the dowel.

Didn't get a full day in the shop today. I haven't been sleeping well and have only slept through the night twice since the surgery. That includes my hospital time too. I went to bed last night at 2200, nodded out right away, and woke up at 1248. I stayed awake until around 0430. 

I was tired in the AM and after being in the shop for about an hour I quit and went upstairs. I felt like a wet sack of whole wheat flour. I nodded out at my desk for a while before getting up to walk around. I didn't want to sleep now and go through another night without sleeping. I went back to the shop around 1330 to do the test frame.

Don't know what I'll get done tomorrow. I have to go to West Roxbury for an eleven o'clock appointment with pulmonary. The swelling and fluid build has subsided a great deal but a bit remains and it is incredibly annoying and still painful at times. I hope the doc will have good news about it. I am hoping that I'll be able to drive again - fingers crossed.

accidental woodworker