He is risen, indeed!

Be sure to visit the Hand Tool Headlines section - scores of my favorite woodworking blogs in one place.  Also, take note of Norse Woodsmith's latest feature, an Online Store, which contains only products I personally recommend.  It is secure and safe, and is powered by Amazon.


Drilling Out for the Screws

For the saw nuts/screws, mount the blade into the handle and draw a line parallel to the brass back, but just below it about 3/4 of the thickness of the screws you have chosen.  The screws should not go through the brass, only the steel of the blade.  Each one seemed to be different, so I just used each set of screws to help me determine their location by placing them next to each other on top of the blank, and use an awl to mark the centers of the screw locations.

There is a certain order that these holes must be drilled, so that each subsequent hole can be centered properly within each other.  The first hole is only a guide for the rest of the holes to be drilled, and is made only through the handle (not the blade) using a 1/8" or smaller bit.  The next procedure is to drill the recess for the saw screw so it mounts flush using a forstner bit.  Measure the width of the saw screw head and if you don't have that size of forstner bit, use the next size smaller (shown as the top part of the photo below).
When it comes time to put in the screw, if the recess for the head is just barely smaller than the screw head, it may be small enough of a difference that the screw head will simply compress the wood enough not to be a problem. Where the recess is still too small, and the head of the screw or medallion don't fit into the recess, I mark the area around the used a gouge with a smaller diameter than that of the screw head or medallion and carve out the difference until it did fit.  Another option might be filing down a spade bit until it is the right size, or using an adjustable bit for a brace in combination with a forstner or brad point bit.
The next hole is for the nuts on the back side of the saw (see the middle part of the photo below) and is drilled only half way through the handle using a brad point bit.

For the last hole I mounted the blade and got a standard high speed steel bit the width of the screw that I was using for the handle, then drilled the first hole through both the handle and the blade.  Then, using a screw to make sure the blade didn't move and misalign the hole (see the bottom of the photo above) I drilled the final hole.

Before I can insert the screws into the handle, I need to square up the holes to accommodate the square portion of the saw screw, which is there to aid in tightening it up, stopping it from turning in the hole:

You must not skip this step.  If you try to force them, the handle will crack - almost guaranteed.  When the holes are all drilled, I test fit the handles:

Don't over-tighten the screws yet - you need to be able to take the whole thing apart for the next step.  You shouldn't tighten the screws fully until you are sure you will never have to take them apart again.

This is a good time to make the final cut on the bandsaw - the portion just below the nuts.  You can see the pencil line in the top saw where I was to make that cut.