Techniques

Hammer Veneering with Hide Glue: Lessons Learned

 

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Figure 1. A homemade veneer hammer
 

 This is a quick compilation of everything I've learned about doing hammer veneering, both from the radio cabinet project, research, and my previous experiences with veneering and hide glue. Pictures are ones I've compiled from different projects (mostly the radio cabinet piece) to show what I'm yammering on about, so it's not quite like following a project. I've not done copious amounts of veneering, but I've done some over the years and have researched it quite a bit - so here's everything I know in one place (this should be short!).

Hammer veneering with hide glue, though considered daunting by many, is actually pretty easy. It's really just a matter of preparation... The procedure I found that seems to works best for me is a traditional method...

  

 

Hide Glue - Historical and Practical Applications by Stephen Shepherd

 

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Hide Glue - Historical and Practical Applications by Stephen Shepherd
 

 Modern adhesives have come a long way, especially when one considers that most of them have been developed after the Second World War.  The most common glues used in woodworking today are likely white or yellow glues and epoxy, with polyurethanes pulling in a close third. Before WWII, hide (animal) glue was used almost exclusively.  It's favor has diminished in the eyes of most woodworkers today, it's use relegated to restorers and "purists", for reasons I don't really understand.

The modern glues all work well, each with their own strengths.  Yet none, at least in my opinion, work as well as traditional hide glue.  Yet, I've seen it's use actually discouraged - something I find somewhat unsettling.  I remember reading one well respected epoxy protagonist's views of using it rather than hide glue for repairing chairs.  "It can fill gaps where the wood has worn or broken" was said, as well as "it can later be disassembled with 'gentle heating' ".  My first thought was how unfortunate for the future restorer such a choice would be.  I've never known an epoxy to release it's grip with anything close to what could be called "gentle heating".   Also, while it does have impressive gap-filling capabilities, a properly repaired joint won't require it.  I've restored several old pieces of furniture, some the product of later restorations using epoxies and yellow glues, others that had been assembled with hide glue.  The latter were always a joy to work on or to restore.  The former were nearly always frustrating in some manner.

There are hide glue advocates that remain, and Stephen Shepherd is one of them.  Mr. Shepherd is a learned woodworker, schooled heavily in traditional methods and materials.  He publishes an oft-updated blog at fullchisel.com, which is a great resource for many woodworking tasks, and a must-read for any hand tool enthusiast.  He's worked as a "period" woodworker in a pioneer village, restores and builds traditional furniture and tools, and has published previous works on woodworking in the 19th century as well as some magazine articles.  His latest work, titled "Hide Glue - Historical and Practical Applications", is an attempt to educate today's woodworker on the uses and benefits of hide glue.

Hammer Veneering a New Top

 

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Figure 1. The finished top, ready for the next stage of the restoration.
 

 The existing mahogany veneered top of my latest project, a refinishing of a 1928 Brunswick radio cabinet for use as an LP player stand, was in horrendous shape.  The years of misuse were particularly hard on it...  It appears that for many years it has served as a plant stand, and had many patches of veneer missing, dented, or discolored right through the veneer.  My original intent was to patch and refinish it, but the damage was simply too great.

I decided to re-veneer the entire top (figure 1).  I didn't want to disassemble the top from the cabinet, so a vacuum press was out of the question (if I even had one).  I decided to go old-school on it and hammer veneer a new top on using hide glue.  All the veneering I've done before has been for smaller pieces - I've not done it on this large of a scale before. So, this is going to be a bit of an adventure and a learning experience as there's a few new things I'll be trying.  

A More Complex Veneer Repair

The side of the radio cabinet I'm restoring has a good deal of damage to its side.  In this article I'll take you through the steps I took to repair that damage:

Veneer Repair 

The damage is enough to seriously detract from the beauty of this 80 year old mahogany cabinet.  Some might argue that a true repair might involve replacing the entire side - or at least the veneer for it.  I don't want to get that involved or invest that much time into it, nor do I think there is any real reason to...  While this is a fairly complex repair, it certainly is not a difficult one... It's more likely to test your patience than it is your skill. 

A Simple Hot Hide Glue Setup

Hide glue is one of my favorite glues, and one I consider almost perfect for many woodworking joints.  It works easy, can fill gaps, leaves a clear line, mixes with sawdust to accept most wood stains and dies - and it doesn't "stain" the wood like yellow glue can. That's  where glue-soaked wood won't accept stain and  you get those blotchy areas around glue joints if you missed a spot when cleaning up the glue joint.  It's also simply the best glue for dovetails and inlay, and is also used with traditional veneering methods.

Speaking of clean up, hide glue cleans up so much easier than *any* other glue - just scrape the excess off when it dries  - and for the tools, hot water removed it, or a trip to the dishwasher will take care of it if it's dishwasher safe.  It's also a reversible glue, simply by adding heat and/or steam.  It's time-tested, being possibly the oldest glue still in use today.  It's environmentally friendly - no nasty toxins or chemicals to pollute our precious Earth.

Linen-Fold Panels

If you are looking for the piece on wedged through tenons, please click HERE.

Over the last couple years, I've been trying to teach myself carving by coming up with projects that either require or might benefit from a bit of carving.  I try to pick projects where any carving that might be done is fairly simple, or easily replaced if I find my "skills" are particularly lacking.  A couple examples of this are on this site - I've done some celtic knots for some of the trim of our kitchen cabinets, and some basic chip carving on a few saw handles.  

I also have a love for old wooden molding planes, and wanted to showcase a simple project that would highlight the use of the most basic type of these, the hollows and rounds - simple concave or convex shaped molding planes that are of the most common variety, and easily obtainable or buildable (look for a project on that later this spring!) by the average woodworker.

Wedged Through Tenons

If you are looking for the piece on linen fold panels, please click HERE.

During a recent remodel of our house, I enlarged the living room and added a small closet next to the front door. A full size door was out of the question, as it would  require 3' of clear space for it to open,  and I wanted a door that would use as little floor space in front of it as possible.  A pair of sliding doors would not open wide enough, and a single bi-hold door still required too much space for the furniture I have in mind that will go in front of the closet.  The answer was a 4 panel bi-fold door - it would only  protrude into the space in front of it by a foot or less.

Making Dados with Hand Tools

I was asked how dados were made using only hand tools, and thought I could put my response up here to help out if someone had the question again.  It's not for a finished project, just to explain the procedures used... 

First is how to make a simple dado, followed by making a stopped dado...

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