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The Woodworking Blogs Aggregator

This "aggregator" collects all of the woodworking blogs I read every day - or try to anyway!  Enjoy!

Do you have a suggestion for a hand-tool woodworking blog you would like to see here?  Tell me via the CONTACT page.  Thanks!


Factory Cart Bench

Wunder Woods - Sun, 04/12/2015 - 6:11am

I have been through a lot of factory carts in the past couple of years, all of which have been repurposed into coffee tables. Things changed a bit when we built our first factory cart bench. It came about when a customer that wanted to have a bench made sent me some pinterest photos and one happened to have industrial cart wheels on it. That was a gimme for me because I happen to have in my possession about 50 carts that are already bench height.

This is our official, first-ever factory cart bench.

This is our official, first-ever factory cart bench.

We started by trimming the whole thing down from 28″ to 19″ in depth and cleaning all of the hardware. That was followed up by building the back and armrests out of wood we saved from other disassembled carts. After a little distressing around the new cuts and a light sanding overall, we stained all of the hard maple with a medium-dark brown stain before spraying a lacquer finish on the entire cart, including the hardware (I prefer the look of the hardware with a clear coat as opposed to black paint).

When the bench was almost finished, I told Chris (my wife) that I think we might need a factory cart bench in our house. She asked how much I charged for it and she then advised me that it would look much better in someone else’s home. I guess that is how it goes at the cobbler’s house too.

Categories: General Woodworking

dinning room table......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 04/12/2015 - 2:11am
The glove has been thrown down and I have 6 weeks to make this table. I think it's doable and I got a good start on it today. (I also managed to check out my honing gadgets I made yesterday.) I have a schedule mapped out in the brain bucket and I don't see any serious roadblocks ahead. I'll have to get a better idea of when they are actually moving. So far I've only heard my wife tell me it's six weeks. I'd rather get an update from the horse's mouth.

didn't adhere fully all around
gave it a trim
roughed it up with some 100 grit sandpaper
it worked well
I raised a good shine on the bevel. One point I tried to keep aware of was not rolling the edge of the bevel with the strop. This was something pointed out to me from Bob at the Valley Woodworker. It is very easy to drop the strop down at the bottom of the stroke and roll the edge if you are not paying attention. I'm going to make a few more of these with the tip Joe M left as a comment yesterday. 

prepped my flat strop the same way
worked just as well as the round one
I tried this on a plane with 3 flat faceted faces. It worked well and I was able to raise a good shine. I still don't know what the intended purpose of this plane is. I found it online but all I found out was the model number and cost per dozen.

I haven't seen a bare bench top in long time
table stock
Poplar boards on the left for the aprons. One of the cherry boards in the middle is for the bread board ends and the cherry boards on the right are for the top.  The cherry boards for the top all have a streak of sapwood on one edge.

flip it and it almost disappears
If this was for me, I wouldn't be doing this step. I don't mind sapwood and I accept it was what nature has given me to work with. However, there are some who don't share this with me. After they are flipped most of the sapwood is gone. This board has a little showing on the top.

sapwood raw edge
I got lucky with the sapwood it that all of it is on the raw edge. One edge is already square and I should be able to remove this sapwood when I do this edge.

rough widths of the table top boards
possible table top width
All the widths are a 1/2" wider then these. I took off a 1/2" on each board to allow for the square edging operation to come. I doubt I'll get a top this wide. I'll probably end up with something around 37-38 inches.

overall width of the end of the table
I did this once before but I didn't write it down. Or if I did, I don't know where I hid it.  I prefer to get my measurements this way. When the numbers get over 20 I run out of toes and fingers and I make mistakes adding and subtracting.

pencil mark is the bottom of the mortise
After setting the overall width, I got the length of the end aprons including the tenons.

rough cut the end aprons
I didn't bother to knife a line so I didn't get a fuzzy blowout line. This will be removed when I make the tenons.

scrap piece of apron stock
The aprons are going to be about 5" in width.  I'm using this to get the width plus 1/8" for planing after the tenons are fitted.

I bought these table legs from Matthew Burak Turned Legs already prepped and it is something I will never do again. I'll buy legs from him again but not the way I bought these. I had them do the mortises and a leg and apron corner brace. Huge mistake. The vastness of this error on my part is bigger then the universe.

I am stuck using the mortise where I wouldn't have put it and one that was smaller than I would have made it. The mortise is sized for 3/4" aprons and I'm using 1" aprons. And I am missing a huge chunk of the back of the leg that was removed for the 45 degree corner brace to fix the legs to the aprons. Too many compromises to make on my part that I wouldn't had considered if I had just bought the legs.

squaring one edge on the long aprons
The short aprons were easy to ensure they were straight and flat. They were less then 3' and I had a straight edge for them. For the long aprons I don't have a 8' straight edge to check them with. I did them by sighting down the edge and eyeballing them. Once I got a continuous shaving with the #7 from end to end I was done.

used the edge plane to square the aprons
#4 gets what the edge plane couldn't
drawer apron
One of the two long aprons is getting two drawers.  My daughter wanted one but one drawer didn't look good to my eye so I'm putting in two of them. The aprons and the legs are getting painted so I'm not all that concerned about writing on these parts.

I assumed wrong
I thought that by using the edge plane I would get square edges. I didn't. I noticed that this edge was off when I was going to rip on the table saw. A check it with a square showed that almost the entire length of the board was slightly out of square. I checked all the other aprons and fixed the ones that were OTL.

drawer apron
The first step in making the drawer apron was to rip out these 3 pieces. The top, middle (the drawers), and the bottom rail.

crosscutting out the drawer fronts
dry fit of the drawer apron looks good
putting it back together with biscuits
The biscuits are for alignment only. I have tried to glue up something like this without them before and I'm not doing that dance step again.

I hate glue ups
I used yellow glue for this and I barely made it before it started to freeze on me.  After a lot of cussing and fussing, I realized that I should have used  hide glue. Even with the yellow glue I planned on letting this cook until tomorrow.

end aprons marked and ready to make tenons
Because of the ready made mortise I can't make my tenons with equal cheeks.  I'm not fond of flush aprons on dinning tables and on this table I'm making the front tenon an 1/8" deep. That will give me a lip for the mortise and a reveal that I want.  Since the front tenon cheek is only an 1/8" I made it with my rabbet plane.

I have to swap out the short rods
I've had this plane for over 3 years and this is the first time I'm using these long rods. I really thought that I had bought these for nothing. If I took off the wooden fence I could have used the short rods.  The knurled nuts are right on the very end of the short rods for this rabbet. Not a good thing for trusting to make clean straight shoulders.

practice run
I did these four to get my feet wet before I committed to the real thing. The last one I did I tapered the crap out of it. (The top left one.) I cut these off and I did four more again. This time with no tapers.

1/8 brass set bar says it's 1/8" deep
hides the front of the mortise and leaves a reveal
Here you can also see the amount of wood I lost by having the corner bracing done. Never again.

depth is right on too - time to do the real ones

this will be on the inside and not seen
short apron needs some trimming
I don't use the knicker on the rabbet plane. Instead I use a tite mark and I didn't get it set exactly right. The rabbet plane isn't quite cleaning out this bottom inside edge. I did that with the tenon plane.

haunch marked and sawed - chiseling is next
last inside tenon cheek sawed off
my kryptonite
I usually screw this up royally. I have done a few correctly and I took the day off then when it happened. My mistake is that I usually reverse where the saw cuts are made.  FYI - if you do that it won't fit. I double triple checked this four times before I sawed it out.

first one fitted
reasonably good fit for me
I almost made the mistake of sawing this in the wrong place. I made the knife wall and that clued me in that I was doing something wrong. Don't need a knife wall on the haunch.

one end done  one more to go
after I sawed out the tenon I cleaned it up with the rabbet plane
used the tenon to refine the tenon
I only tapered one tenon out of four. And that one didn't turn out that bad as the tenon was over sized. By the time I squared the tenon, I still ended up with a snug fit.

On the opposite end I caught myself laying out for the haunch on the wrong end of the tenon. I started to do the same on this end. Instead of erasing my lines, I left them and I paid the price. I only have about 1/4" catching the haunch here. At least it is something.

I'll plug it even though it will never be seen
I can stow these
I always leave my set up tools set and I don't change them until whatever they were used on is glued up. The long aprons will be getting the same tenon details but I'll be doing them later. The end aprons are done and I'm breaking my rule of stowing these before I do the glue up. Why? If this goes south I'll have to make two more and start from scratch again.

my goal today was to get these two done and I met it
tomorrows goal
I want to get the two long aprons dry fitted and ready for glue up on sunday.

drawer fronts
These have to be thinned down to 3/4". I was going to do it all with handplanes but 5/16" is a lot of meat to plane off. I think I may try to bandsaw most of it off and finish it with handplanes. That is the best of the plans of mice and men for toady.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is your problem is you have sitomania?
answer - an abnormal craving for food (I think I suffer from this)

Give a Buck

FABULA LIGNARIUS - Sat, 04/11/2015 - 11:49pm
Originally posted on Plaster With Wa:
I can’t believe I haven’t blogged about the most important thing that’s been happening for me in the last 24 days! The Japanese Earthen Plaster Exchange needs your $1 vote of confidence! Ending on Earth Day (Oh how I love that lovely coincidence!), this is a campaign to jump…
Categories: Hand Tools

The Dominatrix Polissoirs

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Sat, 04/11/2015 - 11:01pm


Making polissoirs (a wood polishing tool) from local materials during a woodworking class is always fun, though it isn’t always easy. Getting the broom corn for the core of the tool is usually a snap. Hose clamps we can usually scare up. But then we need wax and something to wrap everything up tightly.

This week at the Guild of Oregon Woodworkers we made Roubo-style try squares and then made a couple polissoirs to finish them.

I conned a student to drive me to a local grocery store where we found a whisk broom and an assortment of hose clamps. The store didn’t have beeswax, however, so we had to buy paraffin. And to wrap it all up I grabbed some black 3M duct tape.

After cinching the broom corn tight with the hose clamps I mummified the thing with the duct tape, which was shockingly shiny. And when paired with the silvery metallic hose clamps, it had sort of dominatrix look (not that I know what that really looks like, Lucy).


Then we had to melt the wax to charge the polissoir. But there wasn’t a working microwave (or so we thought). So we did what any self-respecting group of nutjobs would do. We tried to melt the wax in a Coke can we perched on a Subaru’s engine block.

The Subi’s engine was surprisingly efficient, however, and the wax remained solid after 20 minutes. Another student found a sort-of-working microwave, and so he started nuking the paraffin. In the meantime, a third student remembered he had a gas camping stove in his car and brought it into the shop.


We fired it up and within two minutes we had all the hot liquid wax we could desire.

Melted paraffin migrates readily into the broom corn of a polissoir, but it doesn’t create the same sort of tool as when you use beeswax. I need to do some more experiments and reading to explain myself. But the bottom line is that it worked fine. It was just a different experience.

As always, we gave away the polissoirs to the students after everyone polished up their squares. By the way, Oregon oak (Quercus garryana) takes very well to the burnishing from a polissoir.

— Christopher Schwarz

Filed under: Woodworking Classes
Categories: Hand Tools

Oddities and Amusements

The Furniture Record - Sat, 04/11/2015 - 10:18pm

There are often things I see at auctions and shops that are interesting yet are not easily classified. Objects that don’t really fit into categories of furniture that I write about. They are unique items that need to be shared.

It’s what I do.

First up is this wicker casket:

Used to transport the recently deceased to wherever they are transported to.

Used in earlier times to transport the recently deceased to wherever they are transported to.

Back in the days before gurnies and body bags.

Back in the days before gurneys and body bags.

I think it’s perfect for the casual, springtime funeral.

I first covered this item in Behold the Lowly Gout Rocker. I have seem other gout rockers since but this is the first one of this form I’ve seen:

A gout rocker, only different.

A gout rocker, only different.

Ever need to find a use for that spare baby grand piano you have kicking around. Just turn it into a fabulous table like this one:

Nice piano, nicer table.

Nice piano, nicer table.

Then there is this most unusual gun cabinet:

Very unusual.

Very unusual.

What makes it unusual? It’s empty. Lots of second amendment enthusiasts in North Carolina.

And what oddities collection would be complete without some tool? Consider this coffin smother:

A low angle coffin smoother.

A low angle coffin smoother.

A narrow, low angle coffin smoother.

A narrow, low angle coffin smoother.

I found this decorated coffin smoother.

A Christmas smoother?

A Christmas smoother?

They called it a coffin smoother but I thought it looked more like a Mary Jane, as in the style of women’s shoe.

More rounded that most coffins.

More rounded that most coffins.

And lastly, this laminated mallet with an interesting taper:

Taper is not what I expected.

Taper is not what I expected.

It reminds me of…

Gyro meat!

Gyro meat!

Refreshing Massachusetts Banter

The Workbench Diary - Sat, 04/11/2015 - 6:23pm

Yesterday I took a trip down to MA to visit with my good friend Freddy. We spent time at his shop discussing work and Freddy showed me some of his favorite new tools while I snapped some pictures. After that we drove over to the Peabody Essex Museum to discover that the Gould exhibit is no longer on display. Whoops.  We decided to grab some lunch instead before heading over to Phil Lowe’s place.

When we arrived, Phil, Artie, and Freddy proceeded with the customary ribbing and banter. I enjoy watching these guys interact because it’s refreshing to see such a strong (practically familial) bond amongst fellow tradesmen. Phil was again generous with his time and sat down with me for a little while to let me ask him some questions for an upcoming project I’m working on. His answers were full and bursting with insight. It was a total treat to get that time with him.

It was a terrific trip all around: good friends, cool tools, and great furniture. These guys are such an inspiration. Next time I go back I’ll have to bring donuts from The Holy Donut and my home roast coffee again. (I brought an Ethiopian Yirgacheffe and Flores blend yesterday.) I’ve done this the last two times now and I seem to have developed a reputation as the coffee snob that brings the awesome donuts. I’ve set a precedent and now I’m obligated. A small price for great friendships.

Categories: Hand Tools

HB Tansu #3-Progress 14

Greg Merritt - By My Own Hands - Sat, 04/11/2015 - 5:50pm

I started my day in the shop by gluing and pegging the two drawers that I had ready.  I tend to build drawers one or two at a time.  It’s not the most efficient way of doing them, but i have limited space in the shop.  So to avoid damaging the drawers, the safest place for them is in the carcass.  That’s why I build, glue and fit a drawer before starting on the next one.  Anyway.

Liquid hide glue was smeared on the appropriate parts, mostly, and each drawer was assembled in turn.  I was able to clamp the smaller of two drawers in the vise.  This made it much easier to install the bamboo pegs and easier to photograph the process too.  To install a peg, I first drill a pilot hole and then slowly drive in the peg.  Slowly is the key here.  I found that if I just bash the pegs in, there is a good chance for a split.  If I slowly drive the peg in the wood has a chance to compress and a split becomes very rare.



I install these pegs at angles that will best strengthen the joint.  We all know dovetails are strong in one direction, but are dependent on friction and glue in the other.  So I install the pegs in the dovetail joint so as to lock it in both directions.  Overkill?  Probably, but it makes me feel better knowing the joint will not be coming apart.


The finger joint at the rear of the drawer receives opposing pegs.  Same idea as before and these are installed at angles to best strengthen the joint.



Once the glue dries I’ll trim off the pegs and begin fitting the drawers to their new homes.


With the first two drawers glued and pegged I started work on the third drawer.  The lapped dovetails at the front are first up.

Once they are marked out I then saw the diagonals.


Then I drive a piece of card scraper down into the wood to sever the fibers all the way into the corners.  Note the position of the workpiece in the vise.  This supports the outer sections so they don’t split.  I picked up this trick from a Lie-Nielsen video on Youtube and it works great.  From there its just a matter of chopping and splitting out the waste.


Once the sides are dovetailed to the front I plow the grooves for the bottom.  It’s only then that I cut the rear piece for the drawer since it needs to set flush with the top of the bottom grooves.


Of course I zoned out when cutting the finger joints so no photos.  There are still six drawers to go so I should, at some point, obtain some photos.  I will tell you that my normal layout for the finger joint is divide the rear piece into thirds.  The middle third becomes the male portion of the joint and is cut into the rear piece.  This arrangement gives me two pegs through the side and one peg through the rear.  Its a strong joint when all is said and done.


Greg Merritt

Found It

McGlynn On Making - Sat, 04/11/2015 - 2:18pm

I picked through the extra parts — luckily not all of the ones in this pile — and found five of the last six parts of the rose marquetry.  Then my wife came out to help.  She told me I was insane to do this, then promptly found the last part I needed.

I’m going to leave this project alone the rest of the weekend to clear my head.  It’s down hill from here anyway, sand shading, re-assembly, glue up, mastic, etc, etc.

This is the pile of left over chaff.  The main lesson in this project is better part organization.  I did much better this time, but next I'll do even better in terms of keeping parts related to each other.

This is the pile of left over chaff. The main lesson in this project is better part organization. I did much better this time, but next I’ll do even better in terms of keeping parts related to each other.

Complete picture dry-assembled.  Sand shading is next to add depth.

Complete picture dry-assembled. Sand shading is next to add depth.

Categories: General Woodworking

Carcass Saw For Sale

The Logan Cabinet Shoppe - Sat, 04/11/2015 - 8:42am
This is a saw that I made some years ago but never really used much. So I decided to offer it here for sale. If this saw were new, and up to my current standards in terms of appearance, I’d be charging $150 plus shipping for it. But it’s not new and has a couple […]

Rose Marquetry, Part 452

McGlynn On Making - Sat, 04/11/2015 - 7:23am

I’m probably three hours into assembling this marquetry picture, and it’s definitely kicking my butt.  It’s some kind of sadistic jigsaw puzzle created by a psychopathic game designer.  Imagine a puzzle where all of the parts are the same color, and are so small you need to use tweezers.  Now mix seven different colors of the same puzzle, and remove a half dozen critical parts.

But I’m so close to moving on to the next step.  I have probably six more parts to find…or re-make, then I can start the sand shading process.  We’ll see if I have the patience to work on this more today.

Here is the picture, test assembled.  The all-red roses have no depth or separation between the parts without sand shading.

Here is the picture, test assembled. The all-red roses have no depth or separation between the parts without sand shading.

Here is a close up of the problem area.  Maybe I can get my wife and son to comb through the remaining parts one more time before I have to resort to re-making these parts.

Problem area.  The piece of Mahogany background doesn't fit right, and I'm missing 3 stems, two leaves and a bit of background.

Problem area. The piece of Mahogany background doesn’t fit right, and I’m missing 3 stems, two leaves and a bit of background.



Categories: General Woodworking

Hospice Cart Sides

orepass: Woodworking to Pass the Time - Sat, 04/11/2015 - 6:30am

Following is last weekends post which I never got around to posting. 

Chilly morning with a heavy frost. With the heater running the shop is comfortably in the 50’s. Definitely feeling pressure to make progress on the cart today. One side of the cart is complete with the exception of the through mortise for the middle shelf. 

As I listen to WoodTalk I notice a small gap on some of the previous work, nothing a clamp won’t take out but something to investigate. After checking depths and the tenons I recognize that all of my mortises are slightly off 90 degrees. Not much but enough to require a little adjustment. 


After a couple of hours the second side is complete. Each of the tenons will meet at the end of the mortise with its mate at a 90 degree angle so I trimmed each mortise and planed it smooth to ensure a tight fit. Go ahead and laugh at the wasted effort but I love to see the planed end grain and perhaps in a 100 years someone will cut the cart up to make a new project and a joint will open up  showing the work.


Next week I will get the rest of the frame ready.

Categories: Hand Tools

Metal’s in Some plane making to come.

time tested tools - Sat, 04/11/2015 - 5:58am


Don @ http:\\timetestedtools.com

Categories: Hand Tools

Hands-on Workshops With Paul

Paul Sellers - Sat, 04/11/2015 - 4:54am

P1030512The next hands-on nine-day workshop filled straightaway and the next one will begin June 19-27 2015. That’s a Friday start date with no days off throughout the nine days of class.


I’ve taught this workshop since I first developed it in the 1990’s. I cannot tell you how many lives it’s changed and continuous to change. When I began my work training others and passing on skills it was from the direct relationship to my craft, an extension of my life as a furniture maker and crafting artisan and never as a teacher. I’m still a maker and always have been even though our outreach as teachers and apprenticers is bigger and more wide reaching than ever before.


The first two classes of the year filled more quickly than ever before which shows the demand for real woodworking is continuing to grow. This is no surprise to me at all, people are looking deeper into their lives in search of meaning and fulfilment. Woodworking has a way of transforming people’s lives and that’s my main goal. Aldo, unfortunately we’ve cut back a little on the number of courses we can offer this year too. Please book your bench-space early if you are planning on coming to North Wales.

Month-long Intensive this year


Many of you asked if we would be holding a month-long intensive again and we ware holding one this year in September. If you are interested in a more intense multi-project furniture making course concluding with the Craftsman-style Rocking Chair or an armed dining chair this course will prove of great value to you. PICT8761In this course we will be building a large chest to my design. The chest is more cabinet making course for learning the art of raised panel door making by hand, drawer making and making large scaled dovetailed boxes as cabinets. DSC_0025This is a hybrid of my traditional joiner’s tool chest and the cabinet maker’s tool chest you may have seen around my shop or in some the other  month-long workshops held here and in the USA. I have changed the design to become a rock solid foundation course in this type of construction. The drawer making has both through and half lap dovetails and sliding dovetailed dividers too. Quite an interesting project throughout.


The coffee table is a trestle-type table made from solid oak. It has a dovetailed apron, my design and very unusual, through tenons and a series of blind tenons to create the pedestal end frames. The techniques used to build this table are transferable to full sized dining tables of the same or similar design.P1030502

To ensure all students are similarly skilled and prepared, students must have attended our foundational course or a preparation five-day course planned a few days before the month-long.PICT0205

Places for this class are limited to eight students only. Please contact the school as early as possible to avoid disappointment and also for additional details if this course is of interest to you. I will gladly answer any questions you might have.


The post Hands-on Workshops With Paul appeared first on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

could it be better........

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 04/11/2015 - 2:49am
Have you ever made something and in using it, thought of a way to make it better? I have gone in the other direction with making changes and ended up with toast. As I was proof reading yesterdays post I thought of a way to make my molding iron jig better. My immediate impulse was to call in sick and go to the shop and make it.

Cooler heads prevailed and I went to work. Once there I doodled a bit with a couple of ideas. I couldn't quite put my thoughts onto a piece of paper in 2D because I suck at drawing. But it involved trunnions, pins, and all kinds of other neat stuff. It was a fun day at work trying to think of ways to do it with hand tools.

didn't need the trunnions and such
Yesterday when I first got done with this I had an inkling that something wasn't quite right. I was happy with this as I had made it but in the morning that changed. While proof reading my post it came to me that working on this at 90 was/is a bit awkward. Having it tilted slightly downward was much better. My view of the iron being worked improved a lot. I think being able to look down on it rather than straight in allowed me to see the whole profile.

By lunchtime I had ruminated a couple of hundred different designs in the brain bucket. Everything from double trunnions to single ones to using wedges and a hinge. I had finally decided that I only needed the jig tilt down about 20-30 degrees. I didn't need trunnions. Then it dawned me that I could put it in the wagon vise like this. Voilá. I didn't need to change anything.

If I couldn't get this work in the wagon vise It would work in the leg vise. But I like working at the bench on the right side and that is where the wagon vise is. I was happy to get it to tilt without having to saw anything off.

better of view of the iron
it's flatter this way
I played with this iron by honing the edge with it tilted and with it flat like this. Because of the bevel it was definitely easier for me to hone and polish with it tilted. I'll keep the trunnion and other ideas I came up with other projects. This one is staying as it is.

couple of strops coming
I ordered some 3M micro-abrasive paper from Lee Valley today. They show it being used to make "honing sticks", both round and flat. From that I got the idea to make my own flat and round leather honing strops. I intend to use the micro-abrasives to sharpen the molding irons.

this wasn't easy
 The flat strop was very easy to glue up. The left over piece of leather from that I glued to this dowel.

gappy at the top outside edges
This isn't giving me a warm and fuzzy feeling.  This looks like at this point this will unravel. Maybe a thinner piece of leather would a be better choice on these small dowels. We'll see what shakes out with this tomorrow.

This is it for shop time today. My wife wants to go out to eat tonight and she said she told me she would be leaving work early. Translation - it's friday and I want to get out of here now. Tomorrow I will start on the table. Now I'm going out for fish and chips.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many time zones are there in China?
answer - only one   the government requires all clocks to set to the same time as the clocks in the capital of Beijing

Music I’d Like To Hear #90

Doug Berch - Fri, 04/10/2015 - 8:49pm

The post "Music I’d Like To Hear #90" appeared first on "Doug Berch."

Categories: Luthiery

HB Tansu #3-Progress 13

Greg Merritt - By My Own Hands - Fri, 04/10/2015 - 5:59pm

Let the drawer making commence!

Last evening I started with the drawer construction.  I would have liked to cut at least one practice joint in the walnut before diving into the real deal so that I could get a feel for the compression rate.  But since I used absolutely all of my walnut, save a few small cutoffs, I had no choice but to just jump in.  I knew that the walnut would have little compression and just guessed at how tight to shoot for erring on the tight side.  This first round of dovetails fit pretty good.  There are a couple of hairline gaps but I thinks those will closeup when the glue is added and swells the wood.

The joinery for these drawers is my standard fare.  Lapped (half-blind) dovetails at the front, finger joint at the rear, the bottom installs in a groove and everything gets bamboo pegs.  A little unconventional, but stout.



I’ll post more about the process in the following days.  So be prepared to be bored beyond belief.

Greg Merritt

Skottbenk i Norsk Folkeminnesamling, del 1

Norsk Skottbenk Union - Fri, 04/10/2015 - 4:01pm
 Siv K. HolminSkottbenken frå Kverndal i Målselv er ein av mange gamle skottbenkar som vi har presentert her på bloggen. Eigarane av denne hadde ikkje kjennskap til namnet eller bruken av denne. Slik informasjon må vi då hente frå andre kjelder. Foto: Siv K. Holmin

Sidan skottbenken ikkje er ein del av pensum i formalisert fagutdanning i snikkarfaget og ikkje med i faglitteraturen i faget er det ikkje så lett å finne felles, eller gode, nemningar på benken, delar av benken og arbeidsmåten. Vi har nokre spreidde kjelder som er med i oversikta over litteratur om skottbenk i menyen over. Vi har også presentert nokre bloggpostar om både nemningar og om ulike skriftlege kjelder. Med søkefunksjonen i bloggen kan ein enkelt spore opp alt som er skrive. Det er eit materiale som har vore nemnd ved nokre høve men som ikkje er skikkelig forklart; svara på spørjelista om snikkarhandverket i Ord og Sed i Norsk Folkeminnesamling. Spørjelista vart sendt ut til snikkarar i heile Noreg i 1934. Det kom inn 168 svar, nokre er særs omfattande og detaljerte og andre har lite informasjon som er nyttig for oss. Eg har skrive ein artikkel med utgangspunkt i noko av dette materialet, Kjellingfot og ronghake – nemningar i snikkarhandverket omsett til handverkspraksis. Artikelen har utgangspunkt i svara på spørsmålet om høvelbenken.  Spørsmålet var formulert slik:

“Høvelbenken. Brukte dei andre måtar å festa arbeidsstykket enn i høvelbenk? Kann nokon hugsa ei tid dei ikkje nytta høvelbenk? Gjorde ein skilnad mellom hjulmakarbenk og snikkarbenk, og kva var skilnaden? Gjer greie for namni på dei ymse delane av høvelbenken. Var det t. d. tilsvarande eller andre nemningar på det som nemnest her: framtange, baktange, tangeskruve, platerom, benkehakar o. s. b. Uttrykk for å feste lange stykke som ikkje fekk rom på sjølve benken.”

Spørsmåla er godt formulert og grundig gjennomarbeidde. Det er tydeleg at dei som har laga spørsmåla har god kjennskap til snikkarhandverket. Likevel er nok spørjelista i stor grad basert på faglitteraturen i snikkarfaget. Denne er for det meste omsett frå tilsvarande utanlandske bøker og avspeglar i liten grad det tradisjonelle snikkarhandverket på bygdene i Noreg. Døme på dette er spørsmålet om skilnaden på hjulmakarbenk og snikkarbenk. Det baserer seg på ei feilaktig omsetjing frå terminologi på Dansk der ein snakkar om karetmagerbænk som ein høvelbenk som var populær blant vognmakarar og som hadde ein spesiell baktange. Det ser ut til at det berre var eitt av dei 168 svara som hadde forstått dette og svart på dette. Tilsvarande var det også med nemninga benkehakar som var misforstått av dei aller fleste som har svart.

I innleiinga til spørsmåla er det forklart at det er dei lokale nemningane ein er ute etter og at det er bra om dei kan skrive orda slik dei vert uttala. Soleis er det stor variasjon i skrivemåtar i svara. Når det gjeld skottbenken spesielt så gjer fråværet av han i litteraturen at snikkarane ikkje har noko referanse til korleis ein skal skrive namnet.

Eg tvilar på at dei som formulerte spørsmålet “Brukte dei andre måtar å festa arbeidsstykket enn i høvelbenk?” tenkte på skottbenken? Eg har likevel tatt meg tid til å gå gjennom alle dei 168 svara, nærare 2000 handskrivne sider, for å sjå etter om skottbenken er med. Eg går gjennom svara fylkesvis og startar lengst nord i landet. I Finnmark er ikkje skottbenken med i det eine svaret som kom inn frå fylket. Eg startar difor med Troms.


Snikkaren Jens Solvang i Hillesøy kommune var erfaren snikkar og hadde fleire svar som  var illustrerte. Om skottbenken skriv han: Den tid ein sjølv høvla og pløydde golv- og loftbord bruka dei “skottbenk” og “skotthøvel” til å høvle rett kant og pløye i. Han har og teikna ei skisse av ein skottbenk som har langbord på 8 alen. Han skil mellom golvbord og loftbord sjølv om desse kan sjå ganske like ut. Med loftbord meiner han nok bord som fungerer som golvbord på loftet men som også er synleg himling i etasjen under. Slike er det vanleg å høvle flate på margsida og pløye dei etter denne. Så legg ein borda med margsida ned. Baksida som vender opp kan vere meir eller mindre høvla.

Skisse av skottbenk teikna av Jens Solvang, Hillesøy i 1934. Skisse av skottbenk teikna av Jens Solvang, Hillesøy i 1934.

Henri Reiersen på Skjervøy skriv: Ja, jamnt brukte dei skottbenken, fem alner lang, tvo “bokker“, støttestativ i endene og eit “sagbord” 6 tummar breid, tvo tjukk, fast i bukkane på kant (upp ned) og eit av same slag attmed og det kunde stillast tett inntil det faste eller frå ved kiler som vart slegne millom ein vinkelkloss og denne lause bordfjøla. Når snikkaren skulde kanthøvle eller pløye var det godt å kunne ha denne innretning. Og når snikkaren skulle høvle lange bord so la han nokre bord ovanpå bokkane og desse to kantståande borda hvis øverste kant svarte til øverste ende av bokken.

I Troms var det til saman 8 svar som kom inn. Dei to som har med skottbenken i svaret har også svart utfyllande på dei andre spørsmåla. Sjølv om det verkar som om skottbenken var vanleg og utbreidd i Troms på denne tida så har både Jens og Henri ei inngåande forklaring av benken og bruken. Eg tolkar det som at dei rekna med at dei som skulle lese svara trong denne innføringa for å forstå? Sidan skottbenken ikkje er nemnt i spørsmåla så skulle det tyde på at han var ukjent for dei som har laga spørsmåla? Skottbenk er den gjennomgåande nemninga i Troms. Det er døme på både skruvar og kile til stramming. Jens nemner og skotthøvel som namnet på høvelen til skyting av bord.


Olav Engen i Sør – Rana skriv: Til å retta (“skjota“) lange emne, golvplankar t.d. hadde dei sokalla skotbenk – 2 lange plankar nøgje beinka i yvekanten, festa i kvar sine to føter i passeleg lengd frå båe endar, kvart fotpar standande på ein tung tverrklamp, den eine litt lauseleg – rørleg – so dei med ein skruv eller eit drev kunde persa plankane saman um emnet, eller losna på dei og ta det ut att – det settast fast millom plankane med passeleg kant uppum til å høvla av med ein mei-okse, ein oksehøvel med to listor – meiar – fest under som gjekk på benkjeplankane på kvar si sida av emneplanken og sa frå når det var høvla nokk: kanten på emnet vart då retta, beint, som benkjekanten var. 

J. Fondal i Meløy nemner: Høvelbenkens høide er i skrittmålet på snikkarane. Skottbenken.

Fridtjov Wahl i Lurøy nemner: Høvelbenk var kjent, men dei nytta og skottbenk som dei nytta når dei pløgde bord. 

Ragnvald Mo i Saltdal nemner: Til å retta opp lange trestykke hadde dei skåttbenken

Også i Nordland er nemninga skottbenk gjennomgåande i dei 4 av totalt 14 svar som har nemnt skottbenken. Skrivemåten varierer mellom “skottbenk”, “skåttbenken” og “skotbenk”. Olav Engen nemner “mei-okse” som nemning på høvelen. Han nemner og “benkjeplankane” som nemning på langborda.

Nord – Trøndelag

Hans Vold i Frosta skriv: (først om høvelbenken) Dessutan har vi endno : oksbenk – lang planke – som lange bord okshøvles paa. Ataat disse har vi ogsaa: skottbænk for samanskjoting og pløining av gulvbord.

Olav Urstad i Harran skriv: Naar dei pløgde saman golvbord brukte dei skottbenk d. v. s. to plankar sette på kant  og imellom desse feste ein golvplanken ved å kile plankane saman med bløygar

H. O. Naem i Kvam skriv: Ein annan slags benk som bruktes naar der skulde høvles lange bord  og plankar t. d. til golv og loft, var “skotbenken“. Den måtte helst vere noko lengre enn det som skulde høvles. Den var laget av to 2″ x 6″  eller bredere planker som stod på kant i to stativer, den fremste festet til disse og den andre bevegelig. Millom desse plankar vart saa det som skulde pløiast sat fast  med kilar, saamykje høgare enn skotbenken som “fjera” (plognaden). 

Ingolv Svinset i Ogndal skriv: Uframt høvelbenk brukte dei og skotbenk (lengre type). Lange stykke vart festa i skotbenk

I Nord-Trøndelag er skottbenken med i 4 av 11 svar. Skrivemåten varierer mellom “skotbenk” og “skottbenk”. Hans Vold nemner oksbenk bruka til å høvle flask på borda.

I dei fire nordlegaste fylka var det til saman 34 svar på spørjelista om snikkarhandverket. 10 av svara hadde med skottbenk men ein eller anna variant av skrivemåten. Dei fleste har også gitt ei ganske detaljert forklaring av korleis benken ser ut og korleis han vert brukt. Når ein ser det opp mot at det ikkje var spurt spesielt om skottbenk eller pløying av bord så er det stort for oss i Norsk Skottbenk Union at så mange likevel har tatt med skottbenken i svaret. Dei fire nordlegaste fylka sør til Trondheimsfjorden er omlag halve Noreg. Eg vel då å stoppe med dei i denne fyrste delen av gjennomgangen av svarmaterialet i Ord og Sed. Resten av Noreg får kome i 2 eller 3 postar til kring same tema.

Categories: Hand Tools

French Moulding Plane

Toolerable - Fri, 04/10/2015 - 2:35pm
French eBay strikes again!
French plane.
I picked up a pretty little moulding plane from French eBay the other day.  The construction of this plane is a bit different than the English tradition, and I thought it might be worth a five Euro bid to find out if it might be worth building one.

As is typical with purchases from eBay, you never quite know what you are going to get.  I tried to bid on one that didn't look too ratty.  Not too much rust or too many worm holes.

This one has a worn out sole.  The bit on an English plane that normally would be boxed is practically worn off in the front.
The sharp part of the profile on this plane's sole is worn away.
There are some interesting tidbits of French plane construction that one can learn from this plane.  First of all, it doesn't appear that the planemakers were too overly concerned about perfectly straight grain on their planes.  Looking at other planes on eBay, this plane is typical with a big swirly bit of grain right down by the sole.
Nasty tear out on the sole itself!
Here is another view of the sole from the rear.  The back of the plane took a bit less wear than the front.
One can see the profile on the sole from the back.

Here is another view of the swirling grain near the sole.
The wedge is a bit different in shape.  It actually looks practical and easy to make.
I was pleased to see the tapered iron was made by the Peugeot firm.  This should be good steel.  I look forward to sharpening it up.
Peugeot blade.

Here you can see the blade is tapered.  Curiously, it is full width the whole way back.
The big reason I bought this plane, is I wanted to see how the mortise for the blade was constructed.  I was right when I suspected that it was sawn out and another strip of wood was attached to the side.
This construction method for the mortise looks simpler to construct.
Indeed, looking at the end of the plane, you can clearly see where the strip was attached.
The side strip that is glued on is one wall of the blade's mortise.
Another view of the sole including the inserted blade.

Here is a view of the blade cavity with the blade removed.
I think the side escapement looks funny, but I imagine it is practical and works.  It looks like the end of the wedge fits seamlessly with the escapement.
The plane's escapement.
I couldn't see any spring lines on the end of the plane, however the plane's fence was canted a bit.  Could this be the angle that the plane should be sprung?
The fence looks sprung.
Here is a close-up of the maker's mark. It looks like, "8 VRAI CORMIER GARANTI" with a P. G. in the center of the star.
Maker's mark.
The over all length was 22 cm with a height of 7 cm for the body. (8 5/8" x 2 3/4")
Fairly short.
I think there is no question looking at this style of plane that the English style is superior.  However, construction of this plane looks far simpler than the English one.  One can not say that the French made inferior furniture using tools such as this.  Perhaps they viewed these tools with the thought of them being a bit more disposable than the English did.

In any case, here is a construction method of a plane that could perhaps be relevant today in the view of a more entry-level plane, or perhaps a tool one would buy for a single use.

I look forward to trying this plane out to see if it will still cut a moulding.  If so, it might be worth rehabbing and fixing the sole.

In any case, I might try and build one using principles seen on this plane to see if I can come up with a plane that is easy to build.
Categories: Hand Tools

Hound’s Tooth Dovetail Series 3 of 3

Heritage School of Woodworking Blog - Fri, 04/10/2015 - 2:16pm

In this final installment, Frank goes over the layout and cutting of the pins and then assembles the finished joint.

The post Hound’s Tooth Dovetail Series 3 of 3 appeared first on Heritage School of Woodworking Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

The Amana Equation

Fair Woodworking - Fri, 04/10/2015 - 12:45pm
Is there such a thing as an e-social disorder? I don’t think I have one, but then what is up with my apparent need to be anonymous on my blog, twitter, and Instagram? Well despite recurring dreams that I can fly but only when wearing nothing but a pancake on my head, I think I’m […]
Categories: Hand Tools


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