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The Lumber Rule

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 09/29/2017 - 3:40am
lumber rule photo

A must-have tool for the lumberyard by Greg Paolini In addition to my truck and a pile of cash, there’s always one other thing I take to the lumberyard or mill – a lumber rule. Also known as a grading stick, a lumber rule is a simple tool that instantly shows how many board feet are in a piece of rough lumber. This helps me keep track of how much wood I’m […]

The post The Lumber Rule appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

got one done

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 09/29/2017 - 1:23am
It feels like summer has made a U-turn. It didn't feel hot and it didn't feel humid neither.  But once I started working in the shop, the sweat just pored out of me. It was like someone had opened a faucet. The effects of global warming maybe? The accident I had to endure last night, my wife got caught in one on route 10 at the same exit tonight. She didn't see the vehicles involved but she had to to wait a while to get through it. That sucked because she was bringing dinner home and she was late. Not that I am a raving anal nut job if dinner is late.

it looks pretty good
I nixed this detail this morning during my second cup of mojo at work. I like the look but I don't think it is going to work for the donkeys.

stock stop
I thought I would use it as a stock stop for pushing against as I sawed. Then I thought about it some more and maybe having this on both uprights would/could be a potential problem. Being clever I thought I would make a rounded 'U' shaped piece of wood that I could slip over the top bearer and make it flat and straight across the top. Then I got a headache because I couldn't figure out how and where to stow the 'U' shaped thing when it wasn't be used. Then I decided to make it flat just like my 4x4 donkeys.


I had to take a look at this way
It's a half inch down from the top here. I got one more idea for a spacer here that might work. A 1/2" thick piece of stock held in place with a couple of dowels. Then I could take it off, use the stop, and put the spacer back on. No storage problems.

this is leading in the polls
This may be done or the idea above may be done. It'll be a seat of the pants decision when it comes time to chop the mortises for bearers. I like having the bearer fully housed in a mortise. Making the top flush I would have to make a haunch or a stopped dado.

I'm really liking this for fixing bevels

5 strokes
This is an A2 LN chisel and these few strokes removed the 3 bevels I had and made it one again. It's almost done and it took a few more strokes before I felt a burr on the back.

awesome
I don't plug many things or at least I don't think that I do. These are one of greatest things ever invented. I would put them right after popcorn, ice cubes, and sliced white bread. I have used a square to bring lines around a corner but this wins hands down. I used them together tonight to bring my mortise lines around from the top to the bottom.

this one brings the top line to the side
I placed the other one on this and that brings the top line onto the bottom. No fuss, no muss, and although I'm pretty good with a square at transferring the lines, I occasionally miss it. I do much better making tic marks with a marking knife than using a pencil.


ready to chop my first through mortise
Hopefully I am not being cocky here, but I am going to chop the mortise without using the Paul Sellers jig.  Keeping the chisel straight and plumb is something I feel comfortable doing. Fingers crossed on that not biting me on the arse.

1/2 way - time to flip and repeat
this is the reason I made the jig
I want to use the jig to smooth the walls of the mortise and make that flat, straight, and clean. I had to cut it down because it was too long. I sawed it off at the top of the back piece.

it's a 1/2"
It's a snug trip from one end of the mortise to the other but it's a 1/2" wide trip nonetheless.


this end of the mortise is ok
I used a 6" ruler and laid it on the end of the mortise to see if it rocked. It didn't so I don't have a hump on this one.

got a hump on the opposite end
I could see the hump looking down the end of the mortise. I have the ruler pushed down on the left side and I have a big gap on the right side. It took a few swipes coming from both the top and bottom to flatten it out.

all four walls are square
They aren't all perfectly square but I think they are awfully good for a glued and pinned M/T.

I wish this was an inch longer
The blade is short of the 3" depth of the mortise. It didn't matter here as I read square from the top and bottom.

cleanest mortise I've ever made in Douglas Fir

the other cheek wall looks just as good


sometimes you have to just walk away
I am slowly getting over my urges to trim just a wee bit more here or there.  It is only 1630 and I had time to chop another mortise but my wife had told me she was going to be home before 1645 (that didn't happen). Maybe tomorrow night I'll get two of them chopped.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Where is the oldest seaside resort in the US?
answer - Cape May, New Jersey

Three

The Furniture Record - Thu, 09/28/2017 - 9:16pm

It always interests me that often on those rare occasions I go out looking at furniture I will find very similar items. Similar but not the same.

First I found this:

Continental Victorian Burled Sideboard

Description: Circa 1860, choice burl wood veneers, ebonized highlights, oak secondary, three part form, backsplash featuring a central cartouche with relief carved nuts and fruit, mirrored back, base with two upper side by side drawers above two paneled cabinet doors, flanked by rounded cabinet doors, on suppressed bun feet.

Size: 72 x 65 x 23 in.

Condition: Likely later mirror; top with several shrinkage cracks including one long crack; wear and paint loss to ebonized edge highlights, shrinkage crack to left cabinet door panel; other imperfections from age and use.

DSC_7938

This lot has sold for $320.

DSC_7939

Dovetailed drawers mean quality construction.

The French are very fond of the knife hinge.

DSC_7941

The use of knife hinges require some additional clearance in for the back of the door.

s-l1600

The knife hinge.

And this one has the cutest little bun feet:

DSC_7950

Maybe not so little.

A consignment shop in Raleigh has this similar piece:

IMG_2342

1860 Louis Philippe Mahogany Buffet, France, $3650.

Again, dovetailed drawers:

IMG_1893

A different take on tails but dovetails, nonetheless.

This one has hinged drawers:

IMG_1891

Another use of the knife hinge.

This buffet also has the lock with two bolts used on many pieces of French furniture:

IMG_2339

The centrally located lock has two bolts. One goes low into the right drawer, the other bolt goes high into the mortise on the left drawer.

If any of you know the name of this lock or where I can buy one, please share.

This buffet also has some really great pulls:

IMG_1895

Ebonized pull with mahogany rosette. Very attractive.

Last and by far the least, this poor sad thing found at a mall furniture store:

IMG_3641

Kensington Buffet, Blue Stone Buffet Top. List $2,999. On sale for $1,999.

IMG_3642

Hinged drawers also using the knife hinge. No dovetails.

IMG_3644

Buffet doors use typical butt hinges.

Now vote:

DSC_7938

One.

IMG_2342

Two.

or

IMG_3641

Three.

 


How to Cut Wide Tenons

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Thu, 09/28/2017 - 6:29pm
Wide-Tenons-1

FIG. 1. WIDE TENONS WHICH ARE AWKWARD TO SAW It would be difficult to keep the saw to the line over so wide a rail. The planing method outlined here is generally followed in the trade.


This is an excerpt from “The Woodworker: The Charles H. Hayward Years: Volume III” published by Lost Art Press. 

A reader has been making a piece of work which has involved the use of a tenoned rail some 12 ins. wide, and tells us that he has had difficulty in sawing the tenons. Whilst it is possible to saw the tenons, we should not advise it. It would take too long, and it would be difficult to keep the saw true across so wide a tenon. We give here the simplest method.

We show a wide rail in Fig. 1, the cutting of the double tenons of which is a typical example of the process to be followed. A similar case of even wider tenons is that of, say, a table top with clamped ends, the last named being mortised for tenons cut at the ends of the top.

Mark out the joint in the usual way, squaring in the shoulders and marking the tenons with the mortise gauge. The chisel is used for marking the shoulders, and a shallow sloping groove is cut on the waste side as at X, Fig. 2. This forms a convenient channel in which the saw can run when cutting the shoulders, the next operation. The tenon saw can be used for this. Saw down to a fraction short of the gauge line, and be careful to keep the saw square.

Wide-Tenons-2

FIG. 2. CHOPPING WASTE AFTER SAWING SHOULDERS. This can be done only when the grain is straight.

Assuming that the grain is reasonably straight, chop away the cheeks with a chisel as at B, Fig. 2. Do not attempt to remove all the waste in a single cut, but start the chisel about halfway down, and finally take it to within about 1/8 in. of the line. Of course, the grain must be watched. If it tends to run downwards the chisel cannot be used so close to the line. If it runs upwards, it can be taken almost on to it. A fairly wide chisel is desirable for this work.

Wide-Tenons-3

FIG. 3. PRELIMINARY USE OF THE REBATE PLANE. The shoulder acts as a fence for the plane.

Now take the rebate plane and work across the grain, the side of the plane pressed against the shoulder as in Fig. 3. If you have the metal type of rebate plane you can set the depth gauge so that the plane ceases to cut when the tenon is reduced nearly to the gauge line. Be sure that the cutter does not project on the shoulder side as this will damage the latter. At the near side the grain is sure to splinter a bit, but this does not matter. It cannot splinter on the shoulder side as it has already been cut with the saw.

Wide-Tenons-4

FIG. 4. FINAL REDUCTION WITH JACK PLANE. Work the plane inwards from each end.

To finish off use the jack or any other bench plane as in Fig. 4. Carried out in this way the reduction of the wood is quite rapid, certainly quicker than when the saw is used throughout, and it enables the tenon to be trimmed to within fine limits. The remainder of the work, that of cutting the separate tenons and the haunches, is as in normal tenoning.

Meghan Bates


Filed under: Charles H. Hayward at The Woodworker
Categories: Hand Tools

Folding Campaign Bookshelves in 1 Minute

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Thu, 09/28/2017 - 5:55pm

For the December 2017 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine I built a pair of folding campaign bookshelves based on a 19th-century pattern. Long-time readers of this blog know that I love mechanical furniture that folds up into tiny spaces and is durable. So 19th-century British campaign furniture is right up my alley. These examples have a Gothic look to them, but you could alter the profiles of the folding end […]

The post Folding Campaign Bookshelves in 1 Minute appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

Dumb but now better than OK

Oregon Woodworker - Thu, 09/28/2017 - 5:08pm
Recently, I knocked a quarter-inch chunk off the tip of the top horn on the handle of my Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw.  I have no excuse whatsoever.  When I do something like this, I just shake my head and wonder how I could be such an idiot.

I certainly wasn't going to leave the handle that way but I wasn't looking forward to making or buying a new handle.  Holding the handle, I noticed for the first time that it was kind of tight for my very large paw and it looked like it might be more comfortable if the horn were shorter.  With nothing to lose, I used a quarter to draw a new shape and had at it with my TFWW saw handle maker's rasp.  I originally purchased this when I was shaping a saw handle, but now I use it regularly for all sorts of things.  It's the only hand cut rasp I have and the shape and random fine teeth are perfect for shaping of compound curves.  It's a must have.

Reshaping took only a few minutes and, to my great surprise, I ended up with a handle that I like better than the way it came from the maker.


  Really.  It fits my hand better and I can't see how it detracts from the saw's handling.  I don't think it looks bad either, although maybe that's a rationalization.


I read that Lie-Nielsen finishes its handles with a wiping varnish, so I applied two coats of satin Arm-R-Seal to the repair.  As expected, the tip of the horn is somewhat lighter but I think it will age and doesn't look bad anyway.


This was one of those lucky occasions where a dumb move had a happy result.  It got me thinking.  What other tools that I have would I like to personalize?  I might even try it without damaging the tool first.
Categories: Hand Tools

Making an infill plane from scratch 7, shaping a mushroom.

Mulesaw - Thu, 09/28/2017 - 3:46pm
I found a brand new fine file in our spare tool cabinet, and I used it to make the plane look nicer than yesterday.
I also opened the mouth a bit to the rear of the plane at an angle, so the blade can get through to the bottom and do its job once everything is ready.
Since I will need to flatten the end of all the rivets once the plane is completely assembled, I didn't see any point in going all wild with emery cloth etc. The body is flat and reasonably good looking, so it was finally time for me to get back to some woodworking.

My experience with working this bubinga is very limited, so I decided that it would be a smart move to tackle the front knob or tote first.
I had an idea about making a mushroom shaped knob, and I started by sawing out a block of wood that was slightly oversize.
Once the block was ready, I sketched the outline of the mushroom and the lower part of the knob. I used a hacksaw to saw close to my layout lines, and that way remove the bulk of the material. A coping saw would probably have made it a bit more roundish, but the hacksaw did its job admirably.

I haven't quite figured out how the grain orientation works on this wood, because it seems to be very prone to tear out. But skewing the chisel and working end grain slowly but surely helped getting the shape out.
There is still a long way to go before the front knob is finished, but at least I am back to woodworking which I prefer to filing metal.


Front knob straight from the hacksaw.

Patience and a sharp chisel will eventually get you there.


Categories: Hand Tools

Recipe for Happiness

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Thu, 09/28/2017 - 1:46pm
46e88a624db4388c49eff8c5dadd75a6

“Traditional Chair Making – High Wycombe,” photographer unknown. © High Wycombe Furniture Archive, Bucks New University

“It is one thing for the man whose daily work offers him a really creative job, the engineer, the skilled craftsman, the artist, the writer, because with the work comes the discipline. He has to stick it, in spite of the weather or his feelings at the moment, because he who will not work neither shall he eat, neither, in fact, shall he have anything else that is worth having. But because the job is a job into which he can really put all his powers, he has the chance of extracting real satisfaction, real happiness, from it. Or at least as much as we can hope for in an imperfect world. Because to become absorbed in an interesting job is happiness. But when a man takes up some form of creative work in his spare time, he has to be his own taskmaster. And that is not so easy. There is always the temptation to cry off when he doesn’t feel like it, or to drop it altogether when difficulties crop up—as they are bound to do when a man is learning to do a thing on his own. In short, it takes character and grit to stick it long enough to acquire real skill. But once that is attained he has achieved something that will set him on the road to still greater achievement in the future. And that is at least one recipe for happiness.”

— Charles Hayward, The Woodworker magazine, 1942


Filed under: Honest Labour, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Preview: The Shapeoko XL CNC

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 09/28/2017 - 11:18am

A Desktop size CNC at an Entry Level Price The question I’m most often asked is “would you do a review of an affordable CNC?”  Up to now, there have been few choices for woodworkers on tight budgets with small home shops. Here’s the thing: as woodworkers, we do pretty heavy duty work and that doesn’t seem to match up with what’s available on a hobbyist budget. So, I looked […]

The post Preview: The Shapeoko XL CNC appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

More Ripple Molding Success

The Barn on White Run - Thu, 09/28/2017 - 9:38am

While I was fussing with the Roubo bench, John was in the adjacent space being utterly productive in tuning up the Winterthur ripple molding machine.  His success was such that he was able to concentrate on running samples with a variety of the cutters that my long time friend Cor van Horne made when he built the machine.

Magnifique!

Our plan is for John and me to feature and demonstrate this machine at the upcoming Working Wood in the 18th Century conference at Colonial Williamsburg in early 2018.

Product Video: Hofmann and Hammer Workbenches

Highland Woodworking - Thu, 09/28/2017 - 8:00am

Are you thinking of upgrading the workbench in your shop? Consider the Hofmann & Hammer line of workbenches, available at Highland.

In the video below, Mike Morton takes a closer look at all of the models of the Hofmann and Hammer premium German workbenches. Take a look and figure out which one would fit best in your workshop!

The post Product Video: Hofmann and Hammer Workbenches appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Video: I Can Do That’s Chad Stanton – The Outtakes

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 09/28/2017 - 6:20am

“Insightful … erudite … polished … scholarly”, just a few of the words that we’d like to use when talking about the host of I Can Do That!, Chad Stanton. But seriously the words that are used are more impressive, “love your work”, “simple and thorough”, “exactly what I needed”, “all levels of ability can learn something”. Strong support for a show that aims to educate new woodworkers with minimal […]

The post Video: I Can Do That’s Chad Stanton – The Outtakes appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Meeting Friends at EWS

David Barron Furniture - Thu, 09/28/2017 - 5:02am

One of the nicest things about going to shows is to catch up with old friends!

Categories: Hand Tools

Beamish Show of Agriculture 2017

Steve Tomlin Crafts - Thu, 09/28/2017 - 4:49am
Some scenes from the Show of Agriculture at Beamish Museum. Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

Forums, Magazine Misinformation & Screws with Dale Barnard – 360w360 E.251

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 09/28/2017 - 4:10am
Forums, Magazine Misinformation & Screws with Dale Barnard – 360w360 E.251

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking I asked Dale Barnard to join us again to talk about his (and some of my) pet peeves. He’s written blogs on many of these topics. We discuss woodworking forums, some misinformation found in woodworking magazines and screws. He likes drywall screws. Me, not so much. But we reach a mutual understanding.

Join 360 Woodworking every Thursday for a lively discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more).

Continue reading Forums, Magazine Misinformation & Screws with Dale Barnard – 360w360 E.251 at 360 WoodWorking.

New Tool from Bridge City… Clue #6

Bridge City Tools - Thu, 09/28/2017 - 2:07am

Drivel Starved Nation!

I know, this is hard!

This part is 210mm in length. And, it serves several purposes, one of which is in conjunction with an earlier clue…

For those of you who follow this Totally Awesome and Worthless Blog (about 4.2 billion people when I last didn’t check) you know that when we use the color red in our products, there is a reason…

-John

The post New Tool from Bridge City… Clue #6 appeared first on John's Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Grrr, **&$^&%#@#!*(%)^$#@.....

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 09/28/2017 - 1:35am
It's been quite a while so I should be thankful for that but I'm still pissed off. Another fender bender, rear end accident involving two pick up trucks on way home tonight. Route ten was bumper to bumper from the Union Ave exit up to the Reservoir Ave exit. That is about 2-3 miles and with no accidents it takes about 3 minutes to travel. Tonight it was 45 minutes.

As I see it these two cost me 40 minutes of shop time that I can't get back. Losing this time and sitting in traffic, which I like about as much as stabbing a fork into my right eye repeatedly, put me in a real crappy frame of mind. I really look forward to time in the shop after work to decompress. Dealing with sick veterans and ones that pass on all day at work sucks. I need this time in the shop after work to clear my head. The young ones bother me the most and lately I've noticed the passing of a lot veterans close to my age.

final length for the foot
I had to revise what I wanted to get done tonight. The feet, bearers, and stretchers needed to be sawn to finished length.

bearers and stretchers final length
The outside width of the uprights will be 23 1/2". Taking into account the mortise depth and the thickness of the uprights, this is the length of the bearers and stretchers.

finding the center - two diagonals and a square line
layout for the mortise on the foot
No measuring stick errors doing it this way.

almost time to quit
I got almost nothing done and I was hoping to get at least two foot mortises chopped. That won't be happening tonight sports fans.

the chopping chisel
This is the chisel I'm going to chop the four mortises with. I did some chopping on a cutoff and it did ok. I'm sure it'll do even better once I sharpen and hone it. I started by touching up the back.

the bevel is wonky looking
I tried sharpening these for few times by hand it shows. Tonight is the first time in years it's been in a honing guide. There isn't enough time tonight to establish a good 30° bevel. I'll have to do that tomorrow on the 80 grit runway. The bevel as it is now, has 3 facets but it doesn't look a diamond.

last pattern
This is going to be a half pattern for the detail at the top of the upright. I like 1/2 patterns because they make for a symmetrical full pattern. You have to flip to complete so it takes an extra step but I don't mind that. This way also allows for me shift into anal mode and refine and polish just a half rather than a whole.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Fort Dearborn became what Illinois city?
answer - Chicago

Hey moron did I pass?

Journeyman's Journal - Wed, 09/27/2017 - 11:43pm

I got an email yesterday from someone saying I didn’t make those mistakes on purpose. Seriously, do you have nothing better to do with your life than call people liars?  Just to prove mines bigger than yours I made some new dovetails. Well moron did I pass? Am I a craftsman now?  Will you be sending me a merits badge? You should be happy I named the pictures after you, moron_1 and moron_2.

I know I should ignore people like that but today was a test of patience day and I ran on empty.

moron_1moron_2


Categories: Hand Tools

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