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A must-have tool for the lumberyard by Greg Paolini In addition to my truck and a pile of cash, there’s always one other thing I take to the lumberyard or mill – a lumber rule. Also known as a grading stick, a lumber rule is a simple tool that instantly shows how many board feet are in a piece of rough lumber. This helps me keep track of how much wood I’m […]
|it looks pretty good|
|I had to take a look at this way|
|this is leading in the polls|
|I'm really liking this for fixing bevels|
|this one brings the top line to the side|
|ready to chop my first through mortise|
|1/2 way - time to flip and repeat|
|this is the reason I made the jig|
|it's a 1/2"|
|this end of the mortise is ok|
|got a hump on the opposite end|
|all four walls are square|
|I wish this was an inch longer|
|cleanest mortise I've ever made in Douglas Fir|
|the other cheek wall looks just as good|
|sometimes you have to just walk away|
Where is the oldest seaside resort in the US?
answer - Cape May, New Jersey
It always interests me that often on those rare occasions I go out looking at furniture I will find very similar items. Similar but not the same.
First I found this:
Continental Victorian Burled Sideboard
Description: Circa 1860, choice burl wood veneers, ebonized highlights, oak secondary, three part form, backsplash featuring a central cartouche with relief carved nuts and fruit, mirrored back, base with two upper side by side drawers above two paneled cabinet doors, flanked by rounded cabinet doors, on suppressed bun feet.
Size: 72 x 65 x 23 in.
Condition: Likely later mirror; top with several shrinkage cracks including one long crack; wear and paint loss to ebonized edge highlights, shrinkage crack to left cabinet door panel; other imperfections from age and use.
The French are very fond of the knife hinge.
And this one has the cutest little bun feet:
A consignment shop in Raleigh has this similar piece:
Again, dovetailed drawers:
This one has hinged drawers:
This buffet also has the lock with two bolts used on many pieces of French furniture:
If any of you know the name of this lock or where I can buy one, please share.
This buffet also has some really great pulls:
Last and by far the least, this poor sad thing found at a mall furniture store:
This is an excerpt from “The Woodworker: The Charles H. Hayward Years: Volume III” published by Lost Art Press.
A reader has been making a piece of work which has involved the use of a tenoned rail some 12 ins. wide, and tells us that he has had difficulty in sawing the tenons. Whilst it is possible to saw the tenons, we should not advise it. It would take too long, and it would be difficult to keep the saw true across so wide a tenon. We give here the simplest method.
We show a wide rail in Fig. 1, the cutting of the double tenons of which is a typical example of the process to be followed. A similar case of even wider tenons is that of, say, a table top with clamped ends, the last named being mortised for tenons cut at the ends of the top.
Mark out the joint in the usual way, squaring in the shoulders and marking the tenons with the mortise gauge. The chisel is used for marking the shoulders, and a shallow sloping groove is cut on the waste side as at X, Fig. 2. This forms a convenient channel in which the saw can run when cutting the shoulders, the next operation. The tenon saw can be used for this. Saw down to a fraction short of the gauge line, and be careful to keep the saw square.
Assuming that the grain is reasonably straight, chop away the cheeks with a chisel as at B, Fig. 2. Do not attempt to remove all the waste in a single cut, but start the chisel about halfway down, and finally take it to within about 1/8 in. of the line. Of course, the grain must be watched. If it tends to run downwards the chisel cannot be used so close to the line. If it runs upwards, it can be taken almost on to it. A fairly wide chisel is desirable for this work.
Now take the rebate plane and work across the grain, the side of the plane pressed against the shoulder as in Fig. 3. If you have the metal type of rebate plane you can set the depth gauge so that the plane ceases to cut when the tenon is reduced nearly to the gauge line. Be sure that the cutter does not project on the shoulder side as this will damage the latter. At the near side the grain is sure to splinter a bit, but this does not matter. It cannot splinter on the shoulder side as it has already been cut with the saw.
To finish off use the jack or any other bench plane as in Fig. 4. Carried out in this way the reduction of the wood is quite rapid, certainly quicker than when the saw is used throughout, and it enables the tenon to be trimmed to within fine limits. The remainder of the work, that of cutting the separate tenons and the haunches, is as in normal tenoning.
— Meghan Bates
Filed under: Charles H. Hayward at The Woodworker
For the December 2017 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine I built a pair of folding campaign bookshelves based on a 19th-century pattern. Long-time readers of this blog know that I love mechanical furniture that folds up into tiny spaces and is durable. So 19th-century British campaign furniture is right up my alley. These examples have a Gothic look to them, but you could alter the profiles of the folding end […]
I certainly wasn't going to leave the handle that way but I wasn't looking forward to making or buying a new handle. Holding the handle, I noticed for the first time that it was kind of tight for my very large paw and it looked like it might be more comfortable if the horn were shorter. With nothing to lose, I used a quarter to draw a new shape and had at it with my TFWW saw handle maker's rasp. I originally purchased this when I was shaping a saw handle, but now I use it regularly for all sorts of things. It's the only hand cut rasp I have and the shape and random fine teeth are perfect for shaping of compound curves. It's a must have.
Reshaping took only a few minutes and, to my great surprise, I ended up with a handle that I like better than the way it came from the maker.
Really. It fits my hand better and I can't see how it detracts from the saw's handling. I don't think it looks bad either, although maybe that's a rationalization.
I read that Lie-Nielsen finishes its handles with a wiping varnish, so I applied two coats of satin Arm-R-Seal to the repair. As expected, the tip of the horn is somewhat lighter but I think it will age and doesn't look bad anyway.
I also opened the mouth a bit to the rear of the plane at an angle, so the blade can get through to the bottom and do its job once everything is ready.
Since I will need to flatten the end of all the rivets once the plane is completely assembled, I didn't see any point in going all wild with emery cloth etc. The body is flat and reasonably good looking, so it was finally time for me to get back to some woodworking.
My experience with working this bubinga is very limited, so I decided that it would be a smart move to tackle the front knob or tote first.
I had an idea about making a mushroom shaped knob, and I started by sawing out a block of wood that was slightly oversize.
Once the block was ready, I sketched the outline of the mushroom and the lower part of the knob. I used a hacksaw to saw close to my layout lines, and that way remove the bulk of the material. A coping saw would probably have made it a bit more roundish, but the hacksaw did its job admirably.
I haven't quite figured out how the grain orientation works on this wood, because it seems to be very prone to tear out. But skewing the chisel and working end grain slowly but surely helped getting the shape out.
There is still a long way to go before the front knob is finished, but at least I am back to woodworking which I prefer to filing metal.
“It is one thing for the man whose daily work offers him a really creative job, the engineer, the skilled craftsman, the artist, the writer, because with the work comes the discipline. He has to stick it, in spite of the weather or his feelings at the moment, because he who will not work neither shall he eat, neither, in fact, shall he have anything else that is worth having. But because the job is a job into which he can really put all his powers, he has the chance of extracting real satisfaction, real happiness, from it. Or at least as much as we can hope for in an imperfect world. Because to become absorbed in an interesting job is happiness. But when a man takes up some form of creative work in his spare time, he has to be his own taskmaster. And that is not so easy. There is always the temptation to cry off when he doesn’t feel like it, or to drop it altogether when difficulties crop up—as they are bound to do when a man is learning to do a thing on his own. In short, it takes character and grit to stick it long enough to acquire real skill. But once that is attained he has achieved something that will set him on the road to still greater achievement in the future. And that is at least one recipe for happiness.”
— Charles Hayward, The Woodworker magazine, 1942
Filed under: Honest Labour, Uncategorized
A Desktop size CNC at an Entry Level Price The question I’m most often asked is “would you do a review of an affordable CNC?” Up to now, there have been few choices for woodworkers on tight budgets with small home shops. Here’s the thing: as woodworkers, we do pretty heavy duty work and that doesn’t seem to match up with what’s available on a hobbyist budget. So, I looked […]
While I was fussing with the Roubo bench, John was in the adjacent space being utterly productive in tuning up the Winterthur ripple molding machine. His success was such that he was able to concentrate on running samples with a variety of the cutters that my long time friend Cor van Horne made when he built the machine.
Our plan is for John and me to feature and demonstrate this machine at the upcoming Working Wood in the 18th Century conference at Colonial Williamsburg in early 2018.
Are you thinking of upgrading the workbench in your shop? Consider the Hofmann & Hammer line of workbenches, available at Highland.
In the video below, Mike Morton takes a closer look at all of the models of the Hofmann and Hammer premium German workbenches. Take a look and figure out which one would fit best in your workshop!
“Insightful … erudite … polished … scholarly”, just a few of the words that we’d like to use when talking about the host of I Can Do That!, Chad Stanton. But seriously the words that are used are more impressive, “love your work”, “simple and thorough”, “exactly what I needed”, “all levels of ability can learn something”. Strong support for a show that aims to educate new woodworkers with minimal […]
The post Video: I Can Do That’s Chad Stanton – The Outtakes appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.
In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking I asked Dale Barnard to join us again to talk about his (and some of my) pet peeves. He’s written blogs on many of these topics. We discuss woodworking forums, some misinformation found in woodworking magazines and screws. He likes drywall screws. Me, not so much. But we reach a mutual understanding.
Join 360 Woodworking every Thursday for a lively discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more).
Drivel Starved Nation!
I know, this is hard!
This part is 210mm in length. And, it serves several purposes, one of which is in conjunction with an earlier clue…
For those of you who follow this Totally Awesome and Worthless Blog (about 4.2 billion people when I last didn’t check) you know that when we use the color red in our products, there is a reason…
As I see it these two cost me 40 minutes of shop time that I can't get back. Losing this time and sitting in traffic, which I like about as much as stabbing a fork into my right eye repeatedly, put me in a real crappy frame of mind. I really look forward to time in the shop after work to decompress. Dealing with sick veterans and ones that pass on all day at work sucks. I need this time in the shop after work to clear my head. The young ones bother me the most and lately I've noticed the passing of a lot veterans close to my age.
|final length for the foot|
|bearers and stretchers final length|
|finding the center - two diagonals and a square line|
|layout for the mortise on the foot|
|almost time to quit|
|the chopping chisel|
|the bevel is wonky looking|
Fort Dearborn became what Illinois city?
answer - Chicago
I got an email yesterday from someone saying I didn’t make those mistakes on purpose. Seriously, do you have nothing better to do with your life than call people liars? Just to prove mines bigger than yours I made some new dovetails. Well moron did I pass? Am I a craftsman now? Will you be sending me a merits badge? You should be happy I named the pictures after you, moron_1 and moron_2.
I know I should ignore people like that but today was a test of patience day and I ran on empty.