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The Woodworking Blogs Aggregator

This "aggregator" collects all of the woodworking blogs I read every day - or try to anyway!  Enjoy!

Do you have a suggestion for a hand-tool woodworking blog you would like to see here?  Tell me via the CONTACT page.  Thanks!


Skottbenkar i Skaun i Sør-Trøndelag

Norsk Skottbenk Union - Thu, 03/26/2015 - 12:28pm

I dag har eg vore ein runde for å sjå på hus og verktøy i områda sør for Trondheim. Eitt av stoppa var på det flotte anlegget til Skaun Bygdamuseum i Skaun kommune i Sør-Trøndelag. Her har dei samla ei rekke interessante bygningar frå området og samla gjenstandar. Eg spurte sjølvsagt etter om det var skottbenkar i samlinga der. Det viste seg at vår kontaktmann på museet hadde ein skottbenk heime hos seg og meinte det også var ein på museet. Etter eit lite søk spora vi opp ein komplett skottbenk, tre lause bukkar til skottbenk og to skottoksar. I tillegg var det ei rekke andre høvlar som verka å høyre saman med bruk på skottbenk.

 Roald RenmælmoDette er ein av tre like lause bukkar til skottbenk som er i samlinga på museet. Desse ser ut til å ha vore brukt med lause langbord. Foto: Roald Renmælmo

Lause bukkar til skottbenkar har vi funne ein god del av i Sør-Trøndelag og nokre av dei har vi skrive om tidlegare på bloggen. I tillegg har vi ein komplett skottbenk frå Leksvik som har liknande oppbygging som nokre av dei lause bukkane. Tradisjonen i Skaun er også tydeleg på at desse lause bukkane er delar av ein skottbenk og at det er berre langborda som manglar.

 Roald Renmælmo  Roald Renmælmo  Roald Renmælmo  Roald Renmælmo

Den komplette skottbenken har total lengd på 8 alen, har 30″ arbeidshøgd og har to bukkar som held oppe langborda. Han vert stramma med skruvar.

 Roald Renmælmo  Roald Renmælmo  Roald Renmælmo  Roald Renmælmo  Roald Renmælmo  Roald Renmælmo

I samlinga med snikkarverktøy var det to særs fine skottoksar som eg fekk fotografert. Begge har lister som er avtagbare og som er festa i sida.

 Roald Renmælmo  Roald Renmælmo

Det er nok framleis mykje spennande som ventar på å bli oppdaga i Sør-Trøndelag. Her er det mykje å boltre seg i for medlemmane av Norsk Skottbenk Union.

Categories: Hand Tools

My Tool Collection, Part 2: The Preston 1393s And Its Clone…

The Kilted Woodworker - Thu, 03/26/2015 - 12:19pm
Like most things in life, it’s best to start at the beginning, so that’s how I’ll handle the first real post of my beading tool collection (where I don’t go off on other woodworkers; sorry about that, tool hoarders; still friends, right?). And like most of my favourite tools, my beading tool collection begins with […]
Categories: General Woodworking

Customer projects from Australia.

David Barron Furniture - Thu, 03/26/2015 - 11:33am

Michael sent me these pictures, he is a member of the Cooroora Woodworking Club in Cooroy in Queensland Australia. The club has its own saw mill and above you can see a board being lifted off after being cut. It looks like an Alaska type saw with a pair of guide rails to keep it running true, particularly useful on the initial cut. They get most of their wood donated by the council so it's effectively free timber, I wish we had a club like that around here!

Here are a couple of nice projects made from the proceeds of the saw mill.

Categories: Hand Tools

Dutch Chest Lessons

McGlynn On Making - Thu, 03/26/2015 - 10:48am

Building the Dutch Tool Chest has had some important lessons for me.  Aside from the obvious “make sure the dovetails all face the same way”.

First, the one that bugs me most, is get decent lumber.  I got Common Pine (“whitewood”, a very soft pulpy wood-like material), which cupped after I got it home.  By the time I dressed it the “1 by 12″ (.749″ out the door) was closer to 5/8″ thin.  This doesn’t leave enough for nailing and dadoing in my view.  It also continued to move around after it was flattened, and is super soft.  I wanted Select Pine but the home center has been out for several weeks.

A consequence of the soft, thin boards is that the cut nails I’m using caused blow out in several spots as they went into the pre-drilled holes.

Wrought-head cut nails.  I like the look, the blowout on the endgrain, not so much.

Wrought-head cut nails. I like the look, the blowout on the endgrain, not so much.

Something else I’ll do differently is to put the back on after the drop-front is fitted so I can glue on the brackets for the sliding latch more easily.

Drop front ready for battens and some shaping on the catches for the latch bar.

Drop front ready for battens and some shaping on the catches for the latch bar.

I had a bit of a struggle with the boards on the back.  I decided to go with tongue and grooves instead of shiplap.  Problem #1 was my tongue and groove plane doesn’t make a joint that works right off the plane.  The tongue is too big (or the groove too small).  It’s problem with the cutter width, I’ll need to replace something there.  I also installed the boards from the top to bottom.  Bad call, I should have started at the bottom, and not cut the bevel on the top board until it was ready to go otherwise.  Live and learn.

One of the reasons I wanted to do this project was to dust off my hand tool skills and take a break from the crazy detail of marquetry.  I tuned up my coffin smoother, it leaves a super surface now.  That’s a great feeling, it works better than my metal smoother with a more carefully prepared blade.

Smoothing parts for the drop front latch.

Smoothing parts for the drop front latch.

This tool chest is going to get a coat of milk paint and go into service as storage in the house.  I’ll make another one to use when I go to woodworking classes.

Dovetails fit nicely (picture is after rough planing them level, cleanup still to do)

Dovetails fit nicely (picture is after rough planing them level, cleanup still to do)

Without grading on a curve, this will be a B-minus project when it’s done.  Everything will be functional and square, but the details aren’t quite a nice as I’d like.  I’ll do another with either select Pine, or maybe some VG Fir I saw at the wood store.

Just need to trim the lid and get some hinges to complete this one.

Just need to trim the lid and get some hinges to complete this one.


Categories: General Woodworking

The Down to Earth Woodworker: An Exception to my 5S Standards

Highland Woodworking - Thu, 03/26/2015 - 7:00am

“Set In Place” is the second “S” in 5S implementation. It encompasses the arrangement of tools and supplies in logical ways. But woodworkers who have taken a class with me and are utilizing the principles of 5S to make their shop time more efficient and fun know that we don’t just “Set In Place,” but we also learn to “Set Back In Place Clean & Ready To Go.” Putting a tool away when we are finished using it keeps our workspaces clear and uncluttered and allows us to work safely and concentrate more fully. Taking a few seconds to clean the tool before storing it keeps our storage areas clean and we save time because the tool is ready to use the next time we need it.

Thus when someone asks how my shop stays so neat and clean I repeat my 5S mantra, “Put tools and supplies away when you are through using them!” But there is allowance for one occasional exception to this rule.

When making cope and stick cabinet doors, I always start with the coping cut. Fiddling around with shaped backer boards to curb the blowout on a cope cut always seemed like a waste of time, so for me “rails/copes first” makes sense. When all the rails are made (and a few just‐in‐case extras) I change over to the sticking bit and make all the long grain cuts in rails and stiles at one time.

A shortage of clamps (who really has enough?) means I have to glue‐up doors in batches. Recently I was gluing up the fourth large batch of a large door order and came to one where I had failed to rout the sticking cut on the stiles. How did that happen? Trust me, I checked everything twice (or thought I did) before I unplugged my router table, disconnected the dust collection, and rolled it out of the way. Fortunately, though, I had left the sticking bit in the router, all set up and ready to go. Whew!

If a project includes a complicated or “finicky” setup, it is okay to leave the setup in place until you are sure… very sure… you have all the parts you need. This should be relatively rare though, and 99% of the time, putting things back where they belong when you are through using them is a good “5S” work habit.

Want to learn more about 5S and how you can gain more space, have more time, and enjoy your workshop even more? Check out my 5S class at Popular Woodworking University.


The post The Down to Earth Woodworker: An Exception to my 5S Standards appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Plywood versus solid wood for drawer boxes

Matt's Basement Workshop - Thu, 03/26/2015 - 6:00am

I’m very near completing Madison’s tall dresser, at this point the only thing complicated I have left to complete is the construction of the eight drawer boxes.

Originally I intended to build them entirely from solid wood (and the plans for the project reflect this choice) but at the last minute I’ve decided instead to use a high quality Baltic Birch plywood.

High quality plywood equal better components

High quality plywood equal better components

Why plywood instead of solid wood? Two reasons:

  • Plywood only requires that I cut the components to their final dimensions versus potentially resawing the thinner thickness from a thicker board, followed by jointing and planning it to size.
  • For the amount of time they’re going to be viewed I’m not worried if anyone notices they’re not solid wood.

I’ve come to the conclusion over the years that while solid wood drawer components give me a sense of continuity, in that all the parts in the construction are solid wood and not “engineered” materials, sometimes the amount of time and effort I have to invest in creating them can be better spent elsewhere in the project.

Of course there are some limitations to what I can do with plywood when it comes to joinery, actually that’s not true, you can do almost exactly the same things it’s just that you may have to approach them differently.

For example, I probably wouldn’t handcut dovetails for a drawer made with plywood sides, but it’s possible to machine cut them if you took steps to minimize any tearout on the face veneer.

But this isn’t a concern for me considering I usually don’t handcut dovetails for drawer boxes. I’m no longer a huge fan of them, which is a whole other post on its own (here’s a hint, I think they’re overrated…beautiful, but overrated.)

I will admit that probably the number one advantage of solid wood over plywood might be the fact I don’t have to worry about crappy/thin veneer faces, or the part becoming delaminated over time due to bad manufacturing but other than that I can’t think of anything more that would convince me it’s overtly superior.

Of course if you’ve had a bad experience with plywood for these reasons then it’s probable you might not have worked with a good quality plywood yet.

I’m the first to admit there’s some sticker shock when you see the price for a full sheet of a high quality plywood. But once you’ve experienced the results you get when you cut it to dimension and install it into place, you’ll immediately realize why it’s well worth paying a lot more for something that works as well as it does!

What’s your worst plywood experience? Was it the face veneers just falling off? Delamination? Large patches or voids? Share them in the comments below.

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Categories: Hand Tools

Home made shooting jig

Hackney Tools - Thu, 03/26/2015 - 4:05am

Another craftsman-made design from Colin Sullivan, this time a nice modification that makes a standard S/S plane into a much more useable shooting plane, much like the Record T5, but perhaps with a better handle. Colin writes:

The main weakness with an ordinary shoot board is the way the plane can easily be tipped over and spoil the stop. To overcome this I have given the plane a sliding track section it fits into. Now the plane can be pulled and pushed with out the need to hold it up against the work. The sliding section is 3mm thick ply profiled to fit the plane and fixed to another piece of the same ply underneath. The lower piece of ply runs in two guides. The plane I use is a no.6.5 which is quite heavy giving the momentum required. To make things easier I have added a vertical handle to the plane, which is simply attached by a peg that fits in the curve of the plane handle. This jig is not only simple to make but easy to use and more reliable than the normal one. The Tools and trades History Society has a wonderful tool Museum at Amberley Museum and Heritage Centre where I can demostrate various tools and jigs I have made. I have a working drawing of this jig I will pass onto any one who wants to make one.

Record shooting plane homemade_1
Record shooting plane homemade_2
Record shooting plane homemade_3

Categories: Hand Tools

WORK No. 158 - Published March 26, 1892

Work Magazine Reprint Project - Thu, 03/26/2015 - 4:00am

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"One thing is certain- the temporary scare will give the metal button workers another chance."












Disclaimer: Articles in Work describe materials and methods that would not be considered safe or advisable today. We are not responsible for the content of these magazines, and cannot take any responsibility for anyone attempting projects or procedures described therein.
The first issue of Work was published on March 23rd, 1889. The goal of this project is to release digital copies of the individual issues starting on the same date in 2012, effectively republishing the materials 123 years to the day from their original release.
The original printing was on thin, inexpensive paper. There are many cases of uneven inking and bleed-through from the page behind. Our copies of Work come from bound library volumes of these issues and are subject to unfavorable trimming, missing covers, etc. To minimize harm to these fragile volumes, we've undertaken the task of scanning the books ourselves. We do considerable post processing of the scans to make them clear but please bear with us if a margin is clipped too close, or a few words are unreadable. We would like to thank James Vasile and Karl Fogel for their help in supplying us with a book scanner and enabling this project to get off the ground.
You are welcome to download, print, and pretty much do what you want with the scan for your own personal purposes. Feel free to post a link or a copy on your blog or website. All we ask is a link back to the original project and this blog. We are not answering requests for commercial downloads or reprinting at this time.

• Click to Download Vol.4 - No. 158 •

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Categories: Hand Tools

Hi Wilbur, I have a set of cheap-ish chisels that I want to replace with probably Japanese chisels but I can't find many reviews about the various makers. Lee Valley sells some from Koyamaichi and I've heard of the Fujihiro but there seems to be tens...

Giant Cypress - Thu, 03/26/2015 - 3:38am

Hi Alex,

Since Japanese tools are a bit of a niche market in the woodworking world, reviews are few and far between. If you’re looking for a head-to-head shootout comparison review of Japanese chisels, you’re not going to find one. Personally, I question the utility of such reviews, but that’s another story.

I think the best approach for your situation is to decide on what size chisel to buy. I’d look at your current chisel set and pick the size you seem to use the most. Then talk to the various Japanese tool dealers out there, tell them that you want to buy a 1/2″ (or whatever size) chisel, and ask them which one would they recommend. They will probably ask you some questions about what kind of woodworking you do, your budget, and so on. One of those dealers is going to give you an answer that will resonate with you. Buy a chisel from that dealer, and see if you like it. If you do, buy more.

This approach worked really well for me when I was starting to get into Japanese tools. More importantly, you’ll get something even better than a good chisel out of this. You’ll get a relationship with a tool dealer that you can trust, and that’s going to be really valuable in the long run.

Even if you don’t see what you are looking for on a website, I would encourage you to contact the dealer anyway. One time I needed a hammer, and I contacted Iida Tool. The only hammers they had on their website were real artwork pieces, and out of my price range. I asked them if they had any other options, and long story short, two weeks later I had a hammer from them.

As far as the Fujihiro chisels go, those are the chisels I have, and I think they are terrific. For me, they hit the sweet spot between price and performance. The edges last a good long time, and they are easy to resharpen. That’s pretty much what you want in a chisel, Japanese or western. Looking at the chisels as they come out of the box, it’s clear that attention was paid to the details of making the hollow on the back and the filing of the body of the chisel. The handles are very nice, and the rings are hand forged and have a cool faceted appearance from the hammering. If you’re looking for a review, hope that helps.

the seven P's........

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 03/26/2015 - 1:09am
I first learned about the seven P's in the Navy when I was assigned to my first submarine. My Chief (Navy talk for boss) indoctrinated me into the meaning of the seven letters. What are they? Proper Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance. This was the Navy and there has to be some bodily function/part referenced here. I learned real quick to have all my ducks lined up and all quacking in unison when I talked with him about planning.

Twenty years out and I still remember him pounding this concept into my brain bucket. I don't always adhere to it by making a "Proper" plan but I usually try to plan ahead. I just wish I could enforce this in my woodworking and maybe cut down on the brain farts I occasionally have.

Why bring this up on a woodworking blog post? I have been following an auction site on line and over the past couple of years I have made a few online bids. I have never won one and I'm guessing that I've made 10-12 bids so far.

When it comes to winning something, I am the guy who is the one right before or the one right after someone else who wins the prize. I am not lucky and the only thing I have ever won in my life was a raffle for a free dinner. When I went to collect my free repast, the restaurant had closed and gone out of business. So when I bid on a couple of lots this time I was expecting to be the loser again.

Serendipity is a word that you don't see in print that often. It's meaning is "......the faculty or phenomenon of finding valuable or agreeable things not sought for...." Serendipity whacked me upside the head twice today. Once to say hello and then again to get my attention.  I had bid on two lots of tools and I won both of them.  I got two valuable and agreeable things when I had only sought one and was expecting none.

Now if I had listened to my Chief and used the 7 P's on this bidding I wouldn't be having heart palpitations right now. I got the email this morning from the auction site telling me that I had won one or more of my auction bids. I never expected to see that I had won both of them. And I certainly hadn't planned on that being charged to my credit card.

I had thought of taking one of my bids down but I never win anything so I let them be. I won each bid for a few dollars shy of my maximum bid on each lot.  Bidding is something I learned from my grandmother who dragged me to a lot of auctions. Her advice was to never bid over a preset limit. My preset limit was my maximum bid on one lot, not the two of them.

I guess I know where my OT dollars will be going for the next few paydays(please don't stop it). On my next on line bid I will make sure to use the 7 P's and only bid on ONE lot.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What political party did Abraham Lincoln belong to when he was elected president?
answer - the Republican Party

Dedicated Moulding Plane(s)

Musings from Big Pink - Wed, 03/25/2015 - 4:48pm
Once I set up a tool and get it perfect it goes in a box and out the door.

There are times when the last part of this process is harder than others. Sometimes I really have a hard time putting the plane in the box. 

I posted a few commentaries regarding spring angles for dedicated planes last week. The first is here, and addendum is here.

We settled on the final plane and I completed sharpening it today. It will ship tomorrow.

What's different about this time? Well, every time I make one of these dedicated planes I half-heartedly wish the customer backs out and I get to keep it. This plane had my attention once it was decided that we're springing the plane. The profile will fit well into my various presentations. I liked the profile a lot so I cut the line/back log and made one for myself.

Come check it out at Handworks in May. 

Here are a couple more that I recently made.

"Get 'em ready, put 'em in a box. Repeat."

"Oh, the plane is working great! Just as I like it. Put it in a box. Repeat."

Try to guess what this scraping plane I recently made will specifically be used for. Hint: the answer is in the picture.
Categories: Hand Tools

Bonhams – The Scottish Sale

Pegs and 'Tails - Wed, 03/25/2015 - 4:40pm
Bonhams are conducting The Scottish Sale in Edinburgh over the two days of the 15th and 16th of April, 2015. Amongst the furniture on offer is this Edinburgh-made George III mahogany bureau bookcase, attributed to London-trained Francis Braidwood (1752-1827). George … Continue reading
Categories: Hand Tools

Lea leaves us for Slovakia tomorrow

Paul Sellers - Wed, 03/25/2015 - 3:04pm

There’s not much to this really, and yet there is.

P1040666_2Tomorrow Lea (pronounced Leah) will leave us for the fourth time. She made several things including an unusual replication of the 19th century splay lagged table we made on woodworking masterclasses last year. I think all in all she has been with us for three months now so that’s quite a concentrated period of solid making time. When she returns she will stop in to see her parents in Prague and I said it will be nice that she can show her mother what she made. She said, “Yes, but she will say, ‘Why woodwork?’” Leah smiles at me and then quotes her mother further. “Isn’t woodwork for men?’ ” I’m sure there is significance in the question, but I have learned all too often that people assume one thing when it can be entirely another.

P1040439The month has passed quickly for all of us and having Lea here has been wholly enjoyable and it’s because I know for me it’s been because I see something in Lea that may not be obvious to Lea’s mother. I’ve been mentoring Lea through three or four projects this visit. I watched her finish her table, and it’s got complexities in it’s constructs that defy more modern methods. As she worked I saw not only examples of her very fine workmanship; some of the best I’ve seen really, but the hidden beauty of pure resoluteness. What she has is essential to craftsmanship and I think the assumption is that woodworking requires more heavy handedness perhaps more typical of carpentry and joinery whereas Lea worked the whole time with very careful consideration for all that she did. she worked with gentleness and care with firmness and diligence, patience and kindliness. Her thoughtfulness and total attention meant mistakes were almost none. P1040453_2These are characteristics she’d developed by her own personality of self-discipline; characteristics I see but all too rarely in a power-driven world that’s so distorted the face of real craftsmanship. What I liked too is that she would apply the same care and concern to timber-framing, joinery and heavier areas of woodworking. She’s that type of woodworker you see. Anyway, it’s been very fine having her with us.

I asked Sam to stay on for a year or so with us. He said he could and he would. He too shares the same characteristics as Lea does. I will show you what they’ve made soon. Currently he’s making his workbench. It’s a rite of passage for every woodworker.P1040864

Phil and I are of course together every day as we work alongside one another most of the time. I think I know I speak for him when I say our lives have been all the more enriched by these two young people.

The post Lea leaves us for Slovakia tomorrow appeared first on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Update: ‘Virtuoso: The Tool Cabinet and Workbench of Henry O. Studley’

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Wed, 03/25/2015 - 1:11pm


If you’ve wondered why I’m losing my hair, it not entirely genetics. It also has to do with our upcoming title, “Virtuoso: The Tool Cabinet and Workbench of Henry O. Studley” by Donald C. Williams and Narayan Nayar.

The good news is that the book is in capable hands. We have Wesley Tanner (of “To Make as Perfectly Possible” fame) designing the book. And it is beautiful. We have photographer Narayan Nayar processing all the photos and dialing in the color for the press we are using. Plus I, Don Williams, Megan Fitzpatrick, Jeff Burks and others have been fine-tuning the text to make it as clean as we can.

What’s making me crazy, however, is the deadline. We have to get the book to the printer by midnight Thursday to ensure that it will be delivered in time for Handworks and the exhibit of the Studley tool cabinet and workbench in Cedar Rapids, Iowa.

It will be a squeaker.

We plan to open pre-publication ordering for the book on Monday. The title will be full-color, 8-1/2” x 11”, 216 pages, and printed on beautiful and heavy matte paper with a stunning dust jacket. The price will be $49. We hope to offer free shipping for domestic customers who order before the press date, but we’re still running those numbers. Our kids have to eat, and I need to buy a 50-gallon vat of Rogaine.

We also plan to offer an option where you can order the book now and pick it up at Handworks – that will be the first place the book will be released to the public. More details on the ordering process over the weekend.

— Christopher Schwarz

Filed under: Virtuoso: The Toolbox of Henry O. Studley
Categories: Hand Tools

Update: ‘Chairmaker’s Notebook’

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Wed, 03/25/2015 - 12:54pm

CN_cover_web2So where is Peter Galbert’s book “Chairmaker’s Notebook” that was supposed to ship from the printer on March 20? The book is supposed to leave the Tennessee printer today and arrive in our warehouse either tomorrow or Friday.

Then our fulfillment service is creating a special assembly line to process all of the orders (more than 1,100) immediately.

In other news about the book, we are preparing to publish a set of full-size plans for the two chairs in the book. These plans were hand-drawn by Peter and include the full-size seats with all the angles, all the turning profiles (both baluster and bobbin), plus the details on the bending form for the fan-back.

I’m currently scanning the plans and will have details on price and availability soon. These plans will not be bundled with the book and will be actually be produced and shipped by a third party. So no one is going to miss out on a deal or discount.

I’m driving up to our warehouse on Friday and should have photos of the finished product soon.

— Christopher Schwarz

Filed under: Chairmaker's Notebook
Categories: Hand Tools

Update: Hand Tool Immersion Class

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Wed, 03/25/2015 - 12:43pm


I’d like to say “thank you” to all the woodworkers who have donated tools, money and offers of assistance for the Hand Tool Immersion class for new woodworkers being held at the Marc Adams School of Woodworking this fall.

The class filled up in 45 minutes. Marc encouraged me to hold a second one, but I’m afraid I am too tied up with <insert insane list of items here> to even consider it. The good news is that we are already planning additional deeply discount classes for new woodworkers for 2016. Details to come when they are available.


As to the tools y’all have sent, we now have an official imperial crapload of them in my sunroom. In fact, I think we’ll have all 18 students covered. We just have to first figure out exactly what each student needs to complete his or her toolkit.

By the way, if you are a student in this class, you should receive instructions in May on getting your toolkit sorted. So stay tuned on that front.

As to offers of food, teaching assistance and cheerleading, I want to say “yes” to all of the generous offers. I just need to talk over what is possible with Marc next month while I’m at the school. It’s his school, his facility and his insurance. So it’s really his call as to whether you can bring your flea circus to help flatten chisel backs.

The other update for this class (and the similar one in England) is that I’ve started building the tool chest we’ll all be building during these classes. I’ll be shooting photos and will have a manual for the students with drawings etc. This manual will allow me to take naps during the class, perhaps even to skip a couple days of the class to hit the Oaken Barrel for a bender. Who knows?

The wood for the chest is some sweet 4/4 white pine I recently scored. The stuff almost planes itself.

— Christopher Schwarz

Filed under: Woodworking Classes
Categories: Hand Tools

Carved name sign for Bernie

Mulesaw - Wed, 03/25/2015 - 11:52am
I found a piece of wood from an old pilot ladder that was broken, and since the name of the horse is of an appropriate length, the piece of wood was just the right size.

At first I ripped the plank to the desired width, then it was re sawed to a thickness of around 5/8"

I flattened the stock with my plane and squared the edges.

As usual, I taped on a print out of the name to be carved, and I also taped on two logos for the Danish Warmblood horse.

Transferring the outline of the letters to the wood is done by following the outline with a hobby knife. Just a bit more pressure than what is needed to cut through the paper results in a thin line on the wood that I use while carving.

The carving was done in my normal way i.e. with a hobby knife. For the rounded parts of the B and the R, I used a small scalpel like carving tool intended for carving linoleum. It was a bit easier for me to make the rounding look nice with the smaller tool.

The logos were also carved by means of the small scalpel.

When I get home, I plan on painting the name sign. It will be red background with white letters and white logos.

The carved name sign.

The broken step from a pilot ladder.

Layout of the name sign.

Categories: Hand Tools

New Knife Kits!

The Sharpening Blog with Ron Hock - Wed, 03/25/2015 - 11:44am
Our Two New Kits with Bubinga Scales

Our Two New Kits with Bubinga Scales

Two New Knife Kits – The 8” Slicing/Carver and The 8” Chef’s

Great news! Hock Tools just released two new kitchen knife kits. The  8” slicing/carving and 8” Chef’s knife kits are easily built and immensely satisfying projects. Together with our paring knife and 5” chef’s knife kits, you can now build a classic (and classy if I do say so myself!) set of exceedingly sharp and durable kitchen knives made of good old-fashioned 01 tool steel.

You probably already know that while stainless steel cutlery can be handy, nothing – and I mean nothing – cuts better in the kitchen than top quality, high-carbon tool steel. Our kitchen knife kits are made from 01 tool steel, the same steel we’ve been using for decades in Hock Tools plane blades, and in the knives in our own kitchen.

Yes, the knives above were made from our two new kits and from the same steel at the same hardness that you have come to value and rely on in Hock Tools woodworking blades. As a woodworker, you will appreciate how easily these knew knife blades sharpen and how sharp you can get and maintain them in your own kitchen. You know how tomatoes resist the slicer? Not when you slice them with this new slicer/carver. Keep it honed and tomatoes be sliced.

These Kit Blades come with 3 Steel Pins

These Kit Blades come with 3 Steel Pins

Remember, though, that a little care will prevent corrosion. A good tip is to dip your blade in water before slicing onions, apples, or potatoes. Fruits and vegetables like these benefit from a wet carbon blade rather than a dry one. And – this is very important for tool steel in the kitchen — wash and dry your high carbon kitchen knives after each use and never, never put them in the dishwasher. Stainless can’t hold a candle to the sharpness of these knives, but high carbon needs more of your love. Hone as necessary, and your new knife will be treasured for generations.

Although full instructions come with your kits, you can also find Hock Tools’ knife kit instructions on the Hock Tools website. Plus, there are woodworkers who have completed these kits and provided all sorts of how-to information:

Nik Brown, Digital Woodworker, August 21, 2014 Knifemaking video.

Jeffrey Fleisher, Shenandoah Tool Works, tool review for March issue of Highland Woodworking’s publication Wood News Online, March 2015 issue.

Infinity Tools’ Blog entry about assembling a Hock Knife Kit



Categories: Hand Tools

The Northeastern Woodworkers 24th Annual Showcase.

Tico Vogt - Wed, 03/25/2015 - 10:18am

It’s mud season in Saratoga Springs and that means it’s time for the Northeastern Woodworkers Association’s Annual Fine Woodworking Showcase.

I’m bringing the updated Vogt Shooting Board (the name is no longer the Super Chute) with redesigned Bamboo Runway surface and tool steel plate backing the acetal bearing strip.

R S Runway End View

R S Steel and acetal bearing strip

There is a new product as well, the Vogt Drill Press/Bandsaw Fence, which will soon be on my website.

R S VDPF and Sliding Block 2

R S VDPF Auxiliary Platform and Stops 2

R S VDPF Bottom View

This is a great show! I’m really looking forward to seeing my friends from the L-N crew, Geoff and Suzette Noden, and demonstrators George Walker, Bob Van Dyke, to name a few.

The winter has been long and severe and this is just the ticket to help break the ice.


It should be nice and warm in May for:

Handworks 2015 Banner


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by Dr. Radut