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plane #3 0 , me 1........

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 05/05/2017 - 12:24am
Before I get to plane #3, a thought or two on collecting. First and foremost I don't consider myself a collector of anything. And I consider a collector is someone who doesn't use what he/she collects. I might be considered a collector of  books, old hand tools, and old tool catalogs, but I use them. Today I got a 1890 vintage #2 Stanley smoothing plane. Do I need a #2 smoother? No, not really but when I saw it being offered up on Patrick Leach's may tool list, I bought it.

I think I crossed the line in the sand with this plane and became a collector of Stanley bench planes. I don't see myself ever using this plane but I could for small boxes etc. Of the bench planes I only need the #1, 5 1/4, 5 1/2, and the #10 to complete my bench plane collection. Of these four remaining planes, I already know that I will not be getting the #1. To me it is not worth the $$$ it commands.  I've used the LN #1 and to me it is a toy that I don't see it being a viable tool for use in my woodworking. If I do get a #1 it will probably be a LN or a Wood River one.

With that banished from the wish list, I can also eliminate the 5 1/4. I have never used nor seen one of these planes. It isn't in the toy category but I think there are other planes that are a better choice. One nagging thought is to get it for my grandson to use. I've read that is was a school boy use plane.

The 5 1/2 jack is another up in the air plane. I don't use the #5 I have now that much and I don't think the 5 1/2 will change that one way or the other. The #10 is another plane like the 5 1/2, nice to have to say my collection is complete and the collecting is done.

My collection as it is now - #2, #3, #4, #4 1/2, #5, #6, #7, #8, and #10 1/2. I don't know what is 'the' bench plane collection is supposed have but I'm shooting for these with mine.

waiting for me on my front step
not as small as I envisioned it
Patrick says that this is from 1890 so this little plane has lived now in 3 centuries. The rear tote is complete and damage free.  The whole plane looks to be clean, rust free, and in remarkable shape for something this old.

side be side with a #3
rear end shot
You can really see the difference in the two from the rear.

rough grind on the iron and lots of life left to it
road test was a bit bumpy
Setting the iron took a bit of doing. About half of my planes have a reverse threading on the iron advance/retraction. It is a bit a chore trying to remember which is which. I was able to get some shavings in spite of the rough looking bevel.

a small chip is missing  on the front knob

all these are taking a citrus bath overnight
rather delicate looking frame
I looked this over very carefully checking for any cracks or other boo-boos and I found none.

plane #3 iron out of the citrus bath
The black stuff on this was rust leaving a lot of pitting on this side. But the bevel and the immediate area around it is clear.

the back is pit free
a couple of strokes on 120
The back of this looks pretty good after a few strokes on sandpaper. There don't appear to be any hollows or humps I'll have to deal with.

back flattened on the coarsest diamond stone
the two outside bevels are done too
While I flattened the back up through the grits, I sharpened the two outside bevels at the same time. All that is left to be done is the center circular part.

back done up to 8K
there is a burr

I checked for and felt a burr at each step of the way. I wasn't expecting one on the circular one but I got it here too. The lower the grit, the bigger the burr. When I got to 1200 grit, it was hard to feel the burr but I did have one there.

perfect fit with my biggest round strop
ready to road test plane #3
setting the iron
I set the iron so that it projected evenly and the iron matched the profile of the sole.

nice pile of shavings
sneaking up on the cut
It took a lot of tap and trying before I made these shavings. With a sharp iron and a low set iron, making shavings is a pleasure. They spill out of the mouth like ripples across a pond. Finding that sweet spot takes a little doing. My sweet spot was found after the 11th tap of the iron and I made a complete profile shaving end to end.

this plane is not meant for 3/4" stock
I got this plane tamed for the time being. I like this profile a lot more than the profile on plane #1. In fact now that I have gotten a partial profile molded with #1, I am not liking it that much. Together with the problems I'm having tuning it may spell it's doom. I will make that decision after I have fixed the jamming problem and planed a complete profile.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who designed the original 1936 Volkswagen?
answer - Ferdinand Porsche

The Plate 11 Bench

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Thu, 05/04/2017 - 5:58pm



This is an excerpt from “With All the Precision Possible” by André-Jacob Roubo, translation by Donald C. Williams, Michele Pietryka-Pagán & Philippe Lafargue. 

One of the biggest obstacles, downsides and joys to a French bench is the massive slabs used to construct it. Finding wood that is big enough to use without laminating thinner pieces together can be difficult. Laminating thin pieces together to make the thick pieces required for the top and legs is a lot of work without the help of machines.


With any slab workbench with through-joinery, you will experience some shrinkage of the top around the tenon and sliding dovetail. This subsides eventually until it is almost imperceptible.

If you do find stock that is 6″ thick and 22″ wide for your benchtop, it almost certainly will be wet in the middle and prone to distortion. The first French bench that I built used a 4-1/2″-thick cherry slab that had been seasoning in a lot for about five years. The first couple years with that bench were rough. The top shrank at least 1/16″, leaving the through-tenons and sliding dovetails proud of the benchtop.

After planing those flush, the top didn’t shrink much more, but it sagged a bit in the middle during the third year. And now the benchtop is quite stable – yearly humidity fluctuations have little effect on it. The tops of the legs and the benchtop are always in the same plane and the overall shape of the top is consistent.

The French oak that I used in 2013 was likely even wetter than the cherry. For starters, the oak was thicker. And thick material takes a lot longer to dry than thin material. When we first cut into the oak, we used a moisture meter on the wood and found its moisture content in a few places was off the charts. Most places on the bench were about 30 percent moisture content, which is quite wet by furniture standards.

Two months after completing the bench, the top was so wet that it would rust the surface of a holdfast left in a hole overnight.

Like the slab cherry workbench I’d built years before, the oak benchtop shrank around the tenons by more than 1/16″ during the first six months. And the middle of the benchtop began to sag. I flattened the oak top twice during the first nine months in order to be able to plane thin stock on my benchtop.

This begs the question: How flat does a bench need to be? The answer is: It depends on your work. If you plane woods that are less than 3/4″ thick, benchtop flatness is important. I shoot for getting the front 12″ of the benchtop so flat that I cannot get a .006″ feeler gauge under a straightedge anywhere in that area.

If you work with thick stuff or do mostly carpentry, you can be more cavalier.

So if thick slab workbenches are so difficult to find and fussy at first, why bother?

After they settle down, slab workbenches move very little. The same forces that make the top dry slowly also retard its ability to take on much moisture during the seasons (thanks to Steve Schafer for explaining this via Fick’s Second Law, a diffusion equation). After about five years in your shop, your benchtop should be well acclimated and monolithic.

Meghan Bates

Filed under: With All the Precision Possible
Categories: Hand Tools

Lumber Yard Q&A, Shop Update LIVE

The Renaissance Woodworker - Thu, 05/04/2017 - 5:27pm

Lumber Stuffs, Get It Here

First, let me apologize about the static in this audio. I specifically did this same demonstration with the same hardware at the same time last week and I had great sound. All I can figure it the radio on my phone (no wifi) was interfering with the wireless lav mic. If I do it again I’ll get a wired lav mic. Anyway, this session is all about you and the questions you have about lumber, the lumber industry, buying lumber, choosing lumber, etc, etc.

What Did We Cover?

A LOT!! Its a really broad topic and I had way more questions than I could keep up with. Thank you for that. We covered a lot of basics from terminology to how to choose your lumber and prepare for a trip to the lumber yard. We even talked about some ways to source lumber when you don’t have a retail or wholesale yard near you. Here are some blog posts to help you with some of the points I talked about.

Categories: Hand Tools

Thread of Gold

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Thu, 05/04/2017 - 1:35pm



“Designs for Candlesticks,” The Woodworker magazine, January 1938

“Some generations have suffered more than the others, and it may be that we erred in thinking we had put all that behind us. But we shall face the future with braver hearts and a better hope if we take each day as it comes to us, cherishing the thread of gold which is always there among the homespun, keeping the sharp new vision which can look on life with loving eyes and find in it manifold good.”

Charles Hayward, The Woodworker magazine, 1938

Filed under: Honest Labour, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Simple Mitering Jig

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 05/04/2017 - 10:50am
Simple Mitering Jig

While I was working on a tea caddy for an upcoming 360 Woodworking class, I decided to knock out a simple, table saw jig to cut miters on small parts. Normally, I use a miter saw for this work, but with the pieces being small I opted to work on a machine that allowed an easy line of sight at my fingers and hands. Plus, I could install and use a super-thin 7-1/4″ saw blade.

Continue reading Simple Mitering Jig at 360 WoodWorking.

It Doesn’t Take Much

Doug Berch - Thu, 05/04/2017 - 10:06am
It doesn’t take much to do some of the things we want to do. As a teenager I was in a theater company that cobbled lighting together from parts found at the local hardware store. It worked. Some of the best musicians I have heard played on what many would call substandard instruments. I have […]
Categories: Luthiery

Veritas Small Spoke Shave Kit

Toolerable - Thu, 05/04/2017 - 9:31am
I spent a couple days making this neat little project.
The finished spokeshave.
This project turned out to be pretty easy to make. I was a bit apprehensive because there are plenty of "how-to" videos and instructions out there and I wasn't able to find anyone who built the whole thing without a single power tool. Pretty much the consensus is that you need a drill press for this project.

Me being me, I took it as a challenge to see how this project works without one.

Since there is plenty of instructions out there, including the instructions that come with the Veritas kit, I'll try to be brief with this post and focus on the parts that I did by hand that often are done another way.

The first thing I did was get an apropriate blank of wood for the body of the spokeshave. I had some blocks of air dried sycamore that were perfect for this. Sycamore has a beautiful pattern when it is perfectly quartersawn.

While a table saw is great for sizing a blank of wood like this in a few seconds, I like to do this by hand as I find it easier to get a perfectly quartersawn piece out of any blank of wood. This one happened to be almost two inches square, and riftsawn.

I planed a couple of quick chamfers on the edges in order to clamp it to my sawbench. Laying out and ripping to the required angle was simple.
Making quartersawn wood from riftsawn.
I would recomend spending this kind of time on a small project like this, especially with a wood species that has a particular look when quartersawn.

The next bit was drilling holes for the posts that hold the blade. It requires two different sizes of holes for this particular kit, as the adjusters are tapped into the wood.

This needs to be done precisely, and it is highly recommended to use a drill press if you have one.

But, it isn't absolutely necessary.

I find that I can drill fairly accurately with just a little practice. Also, it always helps to keep your chin or your forhead on the back end of the drill, whether it is an eggbeater like this, a brace, or even a hand held electric drill.

To increase accuracy even further, I accurately marked both sides of the blank, and went in half way from either side, meeting in the middle.
I try to keep everything as stable as possible, and put my chin on the handle of the eggbeater.
It could be that it isn't as perfect as a drill press would be, but it is plenty accurate enough.
Drilled holes.
The kit came with the correct tap, but I did not have a tap handle laying around anywhere. After trying a couple things, I realized it fit in my eggbeater. As long as I went slow, there were no problems.
This worked, but I would rather use a tap handle next time.
I decided to just super glue the brass wear plate rather than inset it with dovetails and screw it to the base. Time will tell if this will hold up or not.

Unfortunately, I didn't have a hacksaw, either.

To solve this, I had a serrated all-purpose Chinese knife that I found in the kitchen. It took a while, but it eventually did the job.
I marked the brass, clamped it to a piece of wood to use as a guide.
Needless to say, the cut with the kitchen knife wasn't glass smooth, so to smooth it out I cut a notch in a block of wood that was square to the base.
End-smoothing jig.
Then it was just a matter of holding the brass in the block and rubbing it back and forth over a diamond stone to polish it up a bit.
This worked great.
Once the wear strip was in, the tool was nearly complete. I just sawed out the profile with a bowsaw.
This was quick and easy.
Now it is shaping up to look like a spokeshave.
After that, it was just a matter of smoothing the sawmarks with another spokeshave and a rasp, round over the handles to my taste, and finish.
Front view. I really like the look of QS sycamore.
I finished it just with a coat of BLO. Once it cures, I'll add a coat of beeswax.
The bottom. There are some gaps that are cosmetic flaws because I could only get a metric drill bit rather than the required 5/16" bit recommended in the instructions.
This was a fun and easy project. I happen to have the Veritas large spoke shave kit, and also the Hock large spoke shave kit. I can see a couple more of these in my future.
I even picked up some cool wood for the large ones: leopard wood and goncalo alves.

Categories: Hand Tools


Northwest Woodworking - Thu, 05/04/2017 - 8:43am

Chairs are one of the most challenging of projects. They are mostly air with only a few small sections of wood holding up your bulk and your pride. Jeff Miller wrote the book on them: Chairmaking & Design.

Join us at the Studio July 24-28 to work with Jeff on his interpretation of a Chippendale Chair. http://northwestwoodworking.com/courses/104.

I can’t wait to see his tenon jig. There is always something to learn from another woodworker. This is going to be a fun class.

Chip Chair detail

Categories: Hand Tools

Handworks........is the Midwest just too far or remote?

Benchcrafted - Thu, 05/04/2017 - 8:43am

Handworks is now just 2 weeks away.  This will be the third bi-annual event and as we've said many a time before, you never know when there will be another.  Though we've followed the bi-annual pattern so far, we literally never know if there will be another one until some months later.  So if you are on the fence, better act if you can.

In the past, and probably still now, there have occasionally been some comments like "why Iowa?" or "it's too far from the coasts".   To be frank, we never really doubted that people would come to the Midwest, or anywhere really, if the event had the right spirit.  That said, we can understand some of the apprehension concerning travel and expense.  With that in mind here are a few points of interest:

- It's free
- It's in an historical village with a rich woodworking history
- It offers something for everyone, literally, if you or someone with you can't find something of interest in Amana or at one of the event venues then you probably have a hard time finding interest anywhere.
- It's low key (yes it can get crowded but in a good way)
- It offers a chance to both handle tools and learn quite a lot from a group of vendors that overall are more interested in craftsmanship than they are money.  You would be hard pressed to find another event that offers the same kind of hands on with so many experts short of a lot of dedicated, costly and time consuming classes
- There's even a dedicated section of the camp ground set aside for HW attendees

As for travel and attendance.  Yes, it can get crowded, registration is well over double the previous event, but we've spread things out this year into 5 venues, which should really make things nice.

As for travel, few of us in the States can complain (although we do have some people coming from AK).........Internationally we have registrants (aside from vendors) from Canada, British VI, UK, Germany, France, Norway (10!) Australia and get ready for it.......Indonesia.  So if these folks think it's worth the time and expense the least we can do is appreciate that the Midwest is equally far from everyone ;-)

See you there.
Categories: Hand Tools

Tips from Sticks in the Mud – May 2017 – Tip #1– Bandsaw Blade Tensioning

Highland Woodworking - Thu, 05/04/2017 - 7:00am

Welcome to “Tips From Sticks-In-The-Mud Woodshop.” I am a hobbyist who loves woodworking and writing for those who also love the craft. I have found some ways to accomplish tasks in the workshop that might be helpful to you, and I enjoy hearing your own problem-solving ideasPlease share them in the COMMENTS section of each tip.  If, in the process, I can also make you laugh, I have achieved 100% of my goals.


There are a lot of rules in woodworking, and most of them exist for good reasons.

Wear eye protection. Use hearing protection. Don’t start the table saw until you take off your tie.

Some rules, however, are about protecting equipment. One of those is bandsaw blade tensioning. Don’t leave the tension on when not using the saw, lest you cause flat spots on your tires. Apply proper blade tension before starting the saw, lest your blade go flying.

These are important rules, but how many of us follow them? Some woodworkers risk flutter-inducing tire flat spots rather than remove tension at the end of the day.

Why? You can blame it all on that frustrating little handwheel most manufacturers provide for tensioning.

This is the culprit. Who has the time, the arm stamina or the patience to crank this knob until the bandsaw blade is tight?

Let’s put a stop to that.

And, of course, not spend a lot of money in the process.

I’ll even give you two choices, and neither involves buying a new saw.

The quickest fix, if it will fit your equipment, is to purchase the Quik Crank Bandsaw Tensioner. Just compare the parts in the product description to the components on your saw to know if it will work.

If not, you can do what I did, and make your own. My Craftsman saw’s knob engages a slotted end on an adjusting rod. I cut a 7/16″ bolt to a length of 1-1⁄2″ and drilled a hole perpendicular to the long axis, the same distance from the end of the original. A drift pin engages the adjusting rod, and the original 5/8″ hex head on top of the bolt faces up.

Check the opening in your saw’s adjusting rod, but a 7/16″ bolt fit mine perfectly. Accurately drill a perpendicular hole for a tight fit for a pin. Drive in the pin. You’re almost there.

Your modified bolt should fit much like the original equipment handle’s shaft.

Initially, I used my good Craftsman speeder handle, just to prove that the concept was going to work. I left it like that for several months, then replaced it with an inexpensive brand of handle and socket I could just leave in place all the time.

From a distance, no one can even tell this speeder handle came from “that” store, but the price was right, and, just how good does it have to be to tension and de-tension the bandsaw blade?

A discarded milk crate close by allows me to safely get up to a good working height.

Jim Randolph is a veterinarian in Long Beach, Mississippi. His earlier careers as lawn mower, dairy farmer, automobile mechanic, microwave communications electronics instructor and journeyman carpenter all influence his approach to woodworking. His favorite projects are furniture built for his wife, Brenda, and for their children and grandchildren. His and Brenda’s home, nicknamed Sticks-In-The-Mud, is built on pilings (sticks) near the wetlands (mud) on a bayou off Jourdan River. His shop is in the lower level of their home.Questions and comments on woodworking may be written below in the comments section. Questions about pet care should be directed to his blog on pet care, www.MyPetsDoctor.com. We regret that, because of high volume, not all inquiries can be answered personally.

The post Tips from Sticks in the Mud – May 2017 – Tip #1– Bandsaw Blade Tensioning appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

VIDEO: Elia Bizzarri and the Dull Chisels

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 05/04/2017 - 6:41am

When I’m on the road filming video for Popular Wooding, it usually means an anonymous, but increasingly familiar hotel room, a search for good food and craft beer, and spending a few days our video host. I have begun to anticipate that I will learn more about our host than woodworking – in a good way! We had a great time shooting a Windsor Rocker build with Elia Bizzarri (his next video will […]

The post VIDEO: Elia Bizzarri and the Dull Chisels appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Asa Christiana: Tools to Get Started in Woodworking – 360w360 E.330

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 05/04/2017 - 4:10am
 Tools to Get Started in Woodworking – 360w360 E.330

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking Asa Christian shares his thoughts on tools you need to get started in woodworking, and more importantly, how to be successful right out of the gate.

Join 360 Woodworking every Thursday for a lively discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more). Glen talks with various guests about all things woodworking and some things that are slightly off topic. But the conversation is always information packed and lots of fun.

Continue reading Asa Christiana: Tools to Get Started in Woodworking – 360w360 E.330 at 360 WoodWorking.

rematch with plane #1......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 05/04/2017 - 12:32am
Before I got to plane #1 I had to go pick up my new peeper helpers. My cataracts changed my prescription so I had to get new ones. When I got to the eye glass place I was 4th in line. As in there were 4 older ladies and one younger one ahead of me. Not a good feeling. I watched one lady putting on and taking off the same 3 glasses the entire time I was there. Each time she did it she had to get her mother's opinion on it. The lady being waited on was almost done and she paid and left.

That left me thinking I was 3 people back. The two ahead of me were picking up glasses, they tried them on, looked at them in the mirror, and left. Now I was down to the mother and daughter going back and forth on the growing pile of glasses they were trying on. I felt like I was going to be here until saturday afternoon before she decided on a pair of glasses.

I had already been waiting about 15 minutes which was way beyond what I will normally endure. I was ready to leave and come back another day because I didn't see that lady being able to pick out a pair of glasses today. As luck would have it, the lady running the eye glass shop asked me if I was picking up or ordering. I said I got a call my glasses were ready.

She waited on me first and that made me smile from ear to ear. I felt sorry for her as I was leaving. There isn't enough money in this world that could have enticed me to wait that lady and her mother.

plane #3 from yesterday
This plane is going to be another fun one to figure out. I know right away that is not sharp in spite of smooth what was planed looks.

less then half of the profile showed up
stopped after trying two tries
The one on the right I did first and I don't think I was holding the plane at the right angle. That is based the 'rabbet' being angled down and inwards. I saw that after the first run and I did improve on that with the second one. The second one was also a lot harder to plane and I didn't get as much as I did on run #1.

I put this iron in some citrus acid to soak overnight. Tomorrow I'll clean it up, sharpen and hone it, and do battle with it on the rematch.

throat on plane #3
This plane didn't jam at all on me. Bob had left some comments on things to check and I started here. This iron is tight against the mortise wall and flat and tight on the bed. The iron is dull so I'll have to wait to see how well it performs after it is sharpened.

plane #1
 There is a bit of roughness on the left side and the leading edge of the mouth also has some roughness to it. The iron is tight against the wall and the it feels like it is flat and tight to the bed.  The opening on this mouth looks close to what plane #3 is.

small amount of rocking of the iron here
no rocking of this iron anywhere
iron out and checking the wedge - plane #1
The wedge is tight on the bed from the toe to the heel. From what I can see of it, it appears to be a good fit.

plane #3 wedge
It is a good fit also and it is a very snug side to side too.  The toe of the wedge on this one extends further down closer to the mouth. Plane #1 didn't go down as close to the mouth.

possible problem
This was one of the things I thought might be problem. There is a chip missing at the bottom.

this side looks good
This is the edge that should be catching and deflecting the shavings.

wedges side by side
I was expecting the wedges to look more alike. The wedge on plane #3 looks better able to eject shavings then it's neighbor.

black stuff turned out to be rust
We'll see what this looks like tomorrow after it's citrus acid bath.

checking the iron on plane #1
The iron is not moving here at all. I thought maybe it might have been flexing and allowing shavings to jam it up. I can not detect any flexing of the iron here at the mouth. It feels secure so something else is causing the jamming.

Bob said the iron was too rank
I agree with Bob on that. My shavings were too thick and coarse. The profile of the iron matches the plane sole pretty good. I played with this for a few minutes getting the iron projection as low as I could and still have it make shavings.

gripping the plane
My left hand grips the toe of the plane forward of the mouth.

my right hand grips the heel aft of the mouth
Check on the hands interfering with the shavings being ejected.

6 runs down a piece of pine
I did 6 full stroke runs and I didn't get any jamming. The reason I didn't get jamming was because the far left part of the plane wasn't touching the wood making a shaving.

thinner but still too thick
I made a few more taps on the heel to drop the iron a few more frog hairs and tried it again on piece of clear pine.

end to end shaving
I'm making some progress now .

jamming on the far left
I'm even making progress here. The jamming is only on what looks the quirk on this iron. Maybe I altered the profile of it when I sharpened it yesterday. I am making better shavings and making more of the profile today than yesterday.

the profile looks like a squished 'S'
This profile looks exactly like my casing profile molder. 

now the jamming across the mouth is coming back

shavings are better before it jams
this may be slightly off
The ridge on this point is not lining up with the ridge on the profile. I'll have to look at this with some magnification to see exactly what this looks like.

where it should be cutting
I am having trouble visualizing this but it seems that pointy thing should be making something here. Shouldn't it? There is also not much of a profile here but this is where 99% of the jamming is happening. Maybe the shavings are sliding over from the right and doing the jamming of the left?

extra ridge
This was caused by me not maintaining the same plane orientation as I planed this.

I'm good up to this point
I think I lowered the plane down and away from the edge a few degrees. It doesn't take a lot to turn a planed profile into kindling. This is where not having a fence to register causes these problems.

I'm calling the rematch a draw. I definitely made some improvements in trying to make this profile. Everything I learned here through trial and error will stick with me and help with my other molders.

one coat of shellac
I'm done with this. I duplicated the color and now the shine. More shellac will raise a shine but I don't need to prove that to myself.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was Henry Ford's first mass produced car?
answer - the model N which sold for $500 in 1906 (the model T came out in Oct 1908)

A Repair for ‘Roman Workbenches’

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Wed, 05/03/2017 - 10:19am


If you aren’t satisfied printing out an erratum for page 28 of “Roman Workbenches,” here’s a second repair.

I am printing out the two missing lines from page 28 on some leftover Mohawk paper from the press run. I will be happy to snip them out and mail them to you so you can paste the lines in.

To get your literal snippet, send a Self-addressed Stamped Envelope (SASE) to me at:

Roman Erratum
Lost Art Press
26 Greenbriar Ave.
Fort Mitchell, KY 41017

— Christopher Schwarz

Filed under: Corrections, Roman Workbenches, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

The BARN Workbench — Part One

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 05/03/2017 - 9:20am

  I have a confession. I love workbenches. My first project as a hobbyist was a workbench and ever since, I’ve been in love with all the things a good bench can do to help you be a better woodworker.   Workbench 1.0 My first bench was Tom Caspar’s Build a Workbench in a Weekend that appeared in the October 1996 issue of the excellent, but long past Woodwork magazine. […]

The post The BARN Workbench — Part One appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

POLL: What is your favorite or most important non-woodworking tool in your workshop?

Highland Woodworking - Wed, 05/03/2017 - 7:00am

For me, my favorite non-woodworking tool in my workshop is my stereo. I’d be lost without the music, but, my television is hooked up to the stereo, so I can get caught up on the latest news, too, which is especially important when there is a late-breaking event.

This stereo setup is nothing to look at. A big, powerful amp in a box for AM/FM and video switching, connected to a 7.1 Surround Sound speaker system.

One night my wife came down while I was working and asked me to turn the music down some. The living level of our home is just above the garage and the stereo speakers are immediately below the living room. Too much garage volume makes watching TV upstairs, shall we say, “difficult.”

The 7.1 speakers make good sound, but, for some real volume, you need real speakers…

…and these babies move some air. And the floor of the living room above.

I said I would, and she smiled, turned, and went back upstairs. A little while later she came back, said I had looked like “a hurt puppy,” and it made her realize how important my music was to me, especially while I was working. She said I should turn it back up.

Which, I did.
Thank you, Baby.

As often as not, I listen to audio through headphones, especially when noisy equipment would drown out stereo speakers. Still, it isn’t the same. Sometimes, I’m just in the mood for those big speakers to rattle some sheet metal.

One day, when I was at Ole Miss, I was working on genetics homework and playing some Neil Young. The Harvest album. Later in the day I saw my across-the-street neighbor in his front yard. I went over to chat.

“I heard you had the Stray Gators (Neil Young’s band on the Harvest album) on earlier, Jim.”

“Genetics. It’s more than the brain can handle without some dilution.”
“You were studying?”
“OH! I was hoping you weren’t inside the house. Are your ears bleeding?”
OK, so I like my music a little loud. It started with our generation, but it didn’t end with us. Electronics were/are so enabling. And, electronics are cleaner than ever, which means loud can sound better than ever.

What about you? What is your favorite or most important non-woodworking tool in your shop? If your answer is “Other,” leave us a comment with some details.

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Categories: General Woodworking

Upcoming talk on Chinese Furniture

Giant Cypress - Wed, 05/03/2017 - 5:58am

The North Jersey Woodworkers Association is nice enough to have me come back to give another talk. This time I’ll be covering Chinese furniture, and why western woodworkers should know and care about this great woodworking tradition from the other side of the Pacific.

The meeting is at 7 pm on Monday, May 15 at the at the Allwood Community Church, 100 Chelsea Road, in Clifton, NJ. There isn’t specific information on the talk on their website yet, but it should be there soon.

The NJWA is a great bunch of woodworkers, and if you live in the northern part of New Jersey and don’t belong to a woodworking club, you should join these guys.

Erratum on ‘Roman Workbenches’

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Wed, 05/03/2017 - 5:41am


Due to a manufacturing error, two lines of text on page 28 of “Roman Workbenches” did not make it onto the printed page. I have spent the morning trying to figure out how this happened, but my suspicion is it occurred as the plates were made.

Obviously, we cannot print and rebind all of these books (as much as we would like to). And so we are going to correct it here electronically and apologize for the mistake.

The two lines that are missing from the bottom of the page should say:

“most of the stock with a chisel. Then remove the waste with a router
plane like you are traversing the work (lock the board against the”

You can download a corrected page in pdf format. Feel free to cut out the two lines and paste them in your book (that’s what I’m going to do).


As this error occurred on press, the pdf version of the book (which you can download for free with your printed version) does not have this error.

Apologies again.

— Christopher Schwarz

Filed under: Corrections, Roman Workbenches, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

@Handworks 2017 – Original Roubo Print 259

The Barn on White Run - Wed, 05/03/2017 - 5:03am

Continuing Roubo’s theme of indolent leisure we have Plate 259, “Other Sorts of Game Tables with Their Illustrations” from a First Edition of L’art du Menuisier.  The image is a delightful assemblage of precise detailed representations of a variety of tables employed in activities dedicated to killing time and presumably transferring money from one person to another.  Perhaps most charming about this page is that there are some tiny creases in the paper from the original casting of the hand-made paper.  I find such features delightful, and overall the page is in most excellent condition, one of the best among the prints I have for sale.

The plate was drawn and engraved by Roubo himself.

If you have ever wanted to own a genuine piece of Rouboiana, this is your chance.   I will be selling this print at Handworks on a first-come basis, with terms being cash, check, or Paypal if you have a smart phone and can do that at the time of the transaction.



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