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one in, and one out.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 04/27/2024 - 3:18am

 Didn't get a lot done today. I am in between projects without seeing anything on the horizon. That changed when I asked Amanda if Leo and Miles needed a toy box. Based on the pic I saw of their family room, they could probably use more than one. So making a toy box is the next project coming out of Ralphie's shop. I'll make it so that once they get older it can be used for something else.

 this is done

I'll bring this to the Frame it Shop before lunch. 

 took some fancy two step

These were hinge bound and the lid wouldn't lay flat. I chiseled out the area in the bottom part of the hinge first. That helped a little but the hinges were still bound. I had to stick a piece of veneer under between the screw and the barrel. After that the hinge laid flat.

not in the way

I glued a scrap to the inside face to keep the sanding block away from it. It also allows the chain a place to fall. No hiccups pulling the sanding block in or out.

 needed a finger thingie

The lid overhangs the front but not quite enough to easily grab it and open it up.

 still not enough

This didn't help out as much as I expected it to. The overhang of the lid is in the way of the fingers getting to the bottom one.

finally done

Put a smaller finger grab thingie on the lid. This was what was needed - thumb or finger now have enough to grab onto to open the lid. Or I could have skipped this and just opened it from either end of the lid.

 needs some shellac

I got 3 coats on the finger grabs before I left to go see Maria.

leftovers

This is what is left over from the 2nd portable chest of drawers. I wonder if there is enough to whack out a second smaller one. I have some 1/2" thick wide stock for a carcass. I'll have to ask the wife how much longer the 2nd was and how short the 3rd could be.

 present for the wife

I have an obsession with clocks and boxes. I have made a clock for everyone in the immediate family. This one has never worked. The movement cost me $100 and I bought a 2nd one because the first one came damaged. The only thing that worked on this clock was the pendulum. I what to get this running and keeping time.

yikes!

Where does all this time go to? I had no idea that I had made this so long ago. It has been on the buffet in the living room for 16 years.

 replacement movement

I have used two of these movements without any problems. The only thing I don't like about them is the have plastic hands. Plastic hands look like absolute crappola on a clock IMO.

 2nd movement

The first one I picked was a non pendulum movement. This clock has a leaded glass bottom so you can see the pendulum swing.

I remember these hings

They were expensive and I believe they came from White Chapel? I wanted something special for this clock. I struggled doing the mortises for them but it looks I did ok with them.

switched clocks

Changed my mind and I am going to get this clock going first. It has the same movement and has a pendulum. I stopped getting it running because it has plastic hands too. Non of the metal hands I had would fit it. I'm resigned to listening to the Bim Bam sound and looking at plastic hands.

came today

I don't know if there are 500 tables in here but I do know that the ones that are they are all in color. There is a mix with the majority being artsy styled tables. Nice to look at but not my taste. I have looked at it several times and I'll leave it on my desk until I have eyeballed all 500.

CPAP pillow

This is a CPAP machine pillow for side sleepers. That would be me. I always fall asleep on my left side. I got this because the divots on the ends are for the mask to have empty space under it. Good idea and it did work, at least the part for the mask. I tried it for 4 days and said NO MAS. I didn't like it although I tried hard to because it set me back $48. I put it in the closet for now and I'll try to use it again in a couple of months. Or if and when I come across it again, which ever happens first.

new pedometer

This one counts your steps and tells the time. That is it. It doesn't need an app, a computer or a cell phone. The only set up I had to do was set the time. You have reset it each day as it doesn't automatically do that. There is also no memory function, no calories burned, just how many steps. How refreshing. I'll road test it tomorrow when I go on my post lunch stroll.

 

 one back home

My wife sent a pic of this to the girls and they started crying. Amanda can't wait to hang this in her house. Both of the girls were very close to their grandmother and this is the all painting that she did that have. I'm not liking the blue/gray mat though. It doesn't go with the frame. This might be going back tomorrow to change it a green one.

accidental woodworker

What a day.......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 04/26/2024 - 3:29am

 Had my CPAP appointment at the VA today and all is going well. He explained how the CPAP machine works in a language I understood. I had searched on line for one and had more questions after reading the offerings. Before I got the CPAP machine I was averaging 13.8 apnea episodes per hour. Going into my 3rd week with it I am averaging 2.1 apnea episodes per hour. The goal with the machine is 5 or less and I'm less than half. I am still getting used to the nasal mask and I'm still getting mask seal adjust alerts. Those are getting less and they are currently 12/20 with 20 being perfection. The score is rising albeit slowly.

The construction going to the VA was single lane in two of the three choke points. I'm glad that my appointment was for 1030. Rush hour in the morning must be a real mess to deal with. Going home was much better with no lane closures or being choked down from 2-3 lanes to one. Don't know how much longer the construction is going to take but I'll have to deal with it again on the 25th for my annual peepers exam.

 hmm.....

Before I left for the VA I wanted to get another coat of shellac on the poster frame. One corner had some tear out still visible so I hit that again with a 120 grit sanding stick.

 left this one

I would have to sand/plane/chisel too much to remove this divot. I am leaving it as is. I might try filling it with some putty but I'll experiment on an offcut first. I want to see what the color difference is if any.

I got shellac on the frame and the sanding block box before leaving for the VA. That is all I got done in the AM session. My wife decided to sleep in this morning so I couldn't go to the shop and make noise. Just as well because the daily sudoku puzzle made me feel real stupid 3 times. Twice I made the same me-steak with the same number and twice I didn't catch until there were only 4 empty holes. I finished that just before the wife finally got up.

 poster is looking real good

 One more coat on the front and one more on the back and this will get a check mark in the done column. I should be ready to take this to Maria on saturday.

 almost done

All the shellac work is fini. I still have to put a lid stay on it and that will be in the finale tomorrow. I am still waiting to I buy the green sanding block from Lee Valley. The block is $30 and the total needs to be $50 to get free shipping. Haven't thought of $20 worth of anything that I need besides the sanding block.

Last tidbit of FYI. You Tube changed the 'home' page layout and I thought it sucked. As typical with them there were no fore warnings, it just appeared one day. I read that the premium You Tubers got it first. I'm a premium You Tuber only because I don't like the ads that You Tube randomly interjects in the vids. Today they switched back to the old format which I like. I'm used to it and more importantly I like how it looks. 

The new format looked undone and awkward looking. Hopefully they will keep this as is but I doubt it. I'm sure someone has to justify their paycheck by thinking up and implementing this crappola on us.

accidental woodworker

Small Dresser 5: Drawers with Slips and Muntins

JKM Woodworking - Thu, 04/25/2024 - 7:14am

I have been building drawers for the dresser for a while now. I thought I would wait until the last one or two to take pictures, after I got into a routine. But the routine never developed. The steps or techniques changed a little each time.

cardboard frame

To start I made this window out of cardboard the same dimensions as the dresser front. I slid and flipped the boards until I was happy with the orientation, and then marked where to cut.

I fit the drawer pieces one at a time, holding them up to the cavities to make sure they fit. The fronts are sycamore, the sides are basswood, and the backs are pine.

fitting one at a time

I decided to rabbet and nail the sides to the front. The sides aren’t all the same thickness, so I have to mark each one individually. I cut the piece with a fine toothed saw and clean up with a shoulder plane.

each rabbet is marked individually

Once the front piece has rabbets, I crosscut the drawer back to the inter-rabbet distance so it will fit between the sides.

four pieces. back made to match front

The nails are actually wooden pins. The first couple I made from sycamore. That got old quick and I started using dowels.

dowels and skewers
pins ready to go

The thicker ones are 3/16″ and used to fasten the sides to the front. The skinny ones are 1/8″ and fasten the sides to the back. I cut them with diagonal pliers and point the leading end with a chisel or pencil sharpener.

The drawer sides are so thin I decided to make slips for the first time. They always sounded a little complicated or too fancy. I am also making central muntins to hold the bottoms in the wide drawers.

The slips are made on the edge of a 4/4 board. First a 1/4 groove is plowed, then the top corner is rounded over. Last I will rip the length and plane the back flat. The bottom will be planed flush after installing in the drawer. This 4/4 board is about 48″ long, so I get three 16″ slips at a time. The muntin is made similar to a slip, but with the profile on both sides.

flatten edge before grooving
plow groove
round over top edge
two profiles ready to rip from stock

The first four drawers I glued up and pinned all at once. This means I had to drill the pilot holes ahead of time and have the pegs ready to go. For the last drawer I glued it up first and later drilled the holes and inserted pins, which was less stressful.

glue and clamps without pins
pins glued through sides into front

After the four pieces of the box are glued, the slips and muntin are applied. Slips are just glued into place, taking care to line up their grooves with the drawer front. Slips also require a little notch to fit under the back. The muntins were dovetailed into the drawer front. Both the front and back of the muntins were also fastened with 1/8″ skewers. I’m not opposed to using screws but the first one I tried looked like it was going to blow out the sides.

muntin made to fit drawer front before gluing
gluing muntin and slips
five drawers rough fitted

I still have to fine tune these into their openings. I will plane the edges trying to get a better reveal. I also need to get some plywood for the drawer bottoms. I plan to glue the drawer bottom all around to hopefully make up for the thinness of the sides and back.

Bigger next steps will be to attach the dresser back and top, finish, and add hardware.

Categories: General Woodworking

slow day......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 04/25/2024 - 3:31am

 Spent the morning running errands seemingly all over the state. It was cloudy with rain clouds closing in from the west so it was a good time to whack them out. I got my morning walk in also and going to Walmart at the same time. It didn't help though because I forgot a couple of things and I had to go back. The rain came around noon time but it didn't deposit much. When I left the shop in the PM the sun was out, the sky mostly cloudless, and the mercury was  up 68F (20C). Tonight the forecast is for the temps to be below freezing (0C). In my part of the universe that depends upon which of the weather seers you listen to. But all of them agree it is going to be cold overnight.

 inside chamfer

In for a penny, in for a pound. I put on my big boy pants and jumped into chamfering the inside edge. If I screw it up I'll start over again.

 no the same offset

The outside chamfer is 5/16" on the face and side. The inside chamfer is a 1/4". I went smaller in case I had to make it wider due to a hiccup.

 against the grain

I used my LN violin plane and a 1 1/4" chisel to do the chamfer. About 2" from each corner I had to use the chisel and on one end I was going against the grain. I took my time, had a sharp chisel, but I still got some ugly looking tear out.

 2nd corner

Lost a big chunk here and this was the worse of it too. Difficult and awkward trying to smooth this out with the chisel.

3rd corner

This one I was able to use the chisel to smooth out about 80% of it.

 4th corner

This was the best looking one and the only one I got clean and smooth. The problem with the chiseling was the chip would follow the grain and dig down and deep. I had to work slowly and basically nibble it with the chisel work.

 getting there

I don't remember which corner this was but one of the keys to finishing it was to leave the layout lines for as long as possible. Before I started I had thought of doing a lamb's tongue but nixed that idea. I wanted the outside and inside chamfers to match.

 best tool in the shop

I made a fresh 120 grit sanding stick to clean up the divots/tear out in the corners. I was able to maintain the chamfer width and smooth away 99.9% of the divots and tear outs.

 looking good

I used the alcohol to erase the layout lines on the face and to wet the inside chamfer. I was able to see basically what the shellac would look like applied. All the corners looked good highlighted by the alcohol. I was happy with it and applying shellac was next.

two coats on

I will let these two dry completely and I'll eyeball the corners to see how they look. If there are any blemishes that didn't sand off the shellac will make them pop. I'll deal with them then.

almost done

The lid is done as is the outside of the box. The tray bottom is done. Next up is putting some shellac on the inside of the box and the inside of the tray. Another day and we can all ooh and aah over it.

Still haven't found Spiral season 4 anywhere on Prime. I think I went through every page and nada. The only way to watch season 4 is with MHZ streaming. That service dubs the character's voices (sucks pond scum). I would rather watch it with subtitles (I like subtitles). I chalked it up to a loss and I'm now watching season 5 which I bought the entire season. A lot of holes in this one because I don't know what happened in season 4.

accidental woodworker

Here’s a short video of how I use the plane tapping out tool. Hopefully this will give a better…

Giant Cypress - Thu, 04/25/2024 - 3:08am

Here’s a short video of how I use the plane tapping out tool. Hopefully this will give a better sense of how hard I’m hitting the blade with the hammer part of the tool. This corresponds to about how hard I hit the blade with a hammer if I’m tapping out that way.

if it looks like the tapping out tool is placed at an awkward angle, it is. This was so I could get a good camera angle. Normally it would be sitting directly in front of me on the bench.

At 27 seconds long, this video is worth 810,000 words.

K7

Old Ladies - Pedder's blog - Wed, 04/24/2024 - 10:34am
I got a Keen Kutter K7 wich is an equivalent to a Stanly Bedrock #7 from www.tablesawtom.com via woodnet. Love that plane already:
Categories: Hand Tools

one is done......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 04/24/2024 - 3:34am

 Another nice sunny day in RI. It was a little on the cold side due to winds coming out of the north. Tomorrow is supposed to rain starting in the afternoon so I'll try to get my walk done in the morning. I've walked a couple of times in the morning but lately I've been doing it after lunch. I still haven't gotten six days in a row walking due to weather but fingers crossed I'll be able to do it this week.

The heat is still coming on due to low temps at night. They have only been a few degrees above freezing. The temps aren't forecasted to be in the 40's over night until next week. I hope they come up sooner than later because I want to stop paying for heat.

didn't happen

I didn't come back to the shop last night. I don't recall even having that thought transit the brain bucket. I only have one more coat to put on to call this done.

sanding block box

I added clamps mostly to keep the miters closed up. I let it cook overnight until this AM.

 LV rounding tools

Used LV copies of the Stanley ones to round over the top edge of the bandings. They behaved this time I didn't rip out chunks rounding them.

 love hate this

I like how well this clamps but I hate the steel band. And especially so the winder thing that rolls it up.

 no wasted room

Getting this stowed back in this box always make me feel like I'm solving an enigma. I don't think I have stowed it the same twice ever. I was thinking of making a new box a few inches wider/longer but after I got it stowed I nixed it. It might still happen because I'm sure I'll run into the situation where no matter what I do I won't be able to fit all the pieces in and have the lid close on it.

 flushing the corners

The frame held even though I shook it like madman with his pants full of angry bees.

spline grooves

This is something that the tablesaw excels at. I have a lot of scraps to the right that were close to this 1/8" wide groove.

 fitting the splines

Plane and check the fit. Once I could bottom out the spline with hand pressure I was done.

 glued and cooking

The last splines I did, a couple of them had gaps. Not this time because I clamped them in both directions.

 poster frame parts

These will be the stops on the back of the poster frame for the poster to sit in. This way I don't have to put a rabbet in the frame.

 off the saw

Not too terrible considering the miters were hand sawn to a pencil line. I don't see how anyone can hand saw four miters and than be able to glue it square. Just one frog hair off of 45 on any one miter will throw it out of two being 90.

 shot the miters

I could have used butt joints for the stops because they won't be seen after the frame is hung on a wall. Miters are my nemesis and practice makes perfect. Although in my case it is coming together rather slowly.

 wee bit too short

I had a massive brain flatulence attack with these stops. They should have had a 13" and 19" inside measurement. I made them the same size as the inside measurement of the frame. DUH.

2nd set

I used a left over piece of 5/4 pine to get both sets of the stops from. I'll save the first set for a future frame. Used the #7 to clean up the sawn edges.

 me-steak #2 upcoming with the stops

This is the rough sawn miters and I had more than enough wiggle room. I shot the miters clean and smooth and found out I had made another boo boo.

 short

The stops will be positioned a 1/2" in from the inside face edge all the way around. I used the pencil marks on the frame to get the lengths of the stops. Then I proceeded to saw each one wrong. I held the stops flush with the inside edge when I marked them. I should have set them on the outboard side of the pencil lines.

 UGH

The long points align with the pencil lines but in the wrong direction. I had more 5/4 pine to whack out a 3rd set of stops but I thought of way to use these.

 another mitering job

This is the back and this would fill in and make the corners 90°. I had off cuts from the stops to use for them too.

 kind of worked

The two mitered faces weren't in perfect alignment. The chisel worked but didn't because the top piece moved as I chiseled straight down.

 first chiseled corner

Got a gap but it will be against a wall and will never seen light. I still want this joint to look good and it is good practice.

 sanding stick to the rescue

Worked a treat and not only smoothed the end grain, it came out gap free. I had my happy face on.

barely

No problems doing one miter and the second one was doable but with caution. I had to do it blind and hold it in place with two fingers.

in the way

The pencil line represents where I wanted the chamfer. The nails where in the way so I had to settle for a smaller one. I saw a chamfer detail like this on a frame my wife was shitcanning. I liked the look of it and I'll be doing it on all the frames I make like this.

 chamfer

I was able to make the chamfer as wide as I wanted on the face side of the frame.

 spline

I offset the spline groove from center because I knew I was putting a chamfer on the frame. I have chamfered a frame where the splines popped out planing the chamfer.

 first coat of shellac

I got the first of 3 coats on the back of the poster frame. Made a lot more progress on this than I expected. I will finish this frame before I go to the Frame Shop and pick up the painting that is finally done (mat was back ordered). I should be done with it by friday at the latest.

 needs something

I want to put a chamfer on the inside edge of the frame. I also want it to run around the entire edge. I can plane some of but I don't have a plane that will do inside corners. I'll have to think on this overnight.

 got 3

The lid is starting to show some coverage and shine. I might be able to get by with one more coat.

only one glamour pic (done)

My wife liked this one. She called it cute which means I she likes it. She can't use it because it is too long by several inches for where she wants it to live. I'll ask Amanda if she wants it. If she doesn't want it I'll stick it in the boneyard.

accidental woodworker

Japanese plane setup (Wilbur’s version) - III: Tapping out

Giant Cypress - Wed, 04/24/2024 - 3:28am

[Note: this step should not be needed with a new Japanese plane, but you never know. And It is an important part of sharpening and maintenance as you use your plane.]

Now that the plane blade is in better shape, we can turn to sharpening. The first thing to check with sharpening a Japanese plane blade is the hollow on the back. The back of the blade is where the hard steel layer is. When sharpening, if we were to work the entire back, that would be a real chore because of the hardness of the steel. The hollow is there to make this much easier, as only the flat part behind the cutting edge needs to be dealt with.

As the blade gets sharpened, however, eventually the flat area gets narrower, until it goes away, as on this plane blade. This isn’t as much of an issue with a chisel, because of the difference in how the hollows are constructed between plane blades and chisels. To fix this, we can tap out the blade. 

Tapping out causes much angst among woodworkers looking to use Japanese planes. I think that’s partially because that the traditional method of tapping out using a hammer and an anvil or some other supporting surface has the chance of disaster if the hammer blow hits too close to the edge. In my experience, that’s a bit overblown. If you have the hand-eye coordination to do woodworking, you’ll be able to do this task. 

The other issue is that the physical act of tapping out is hard to convey in words, especially regarding how hard to tap the blade with the hammer. I’ll do my best.

I’ve written elsewhere about using a hammer and an auto body float as an anvil for tapping out, and that system still works well. Since then, I found a device that makes tapping out a bit easier for people who don’t do it all the time. And to be honest, it’s easier for me, too. Here it is.

This device has a hammer head that comes to a point, mounted on a hinge. The blade is held in a carrier by two bolts.

The blade is positioned over a small rounded surface that serves as the anvil. This is located under where the point of the hammer will come down. The carrier slides in a track that allows you to move the blade back and forth.

By fixing the blade in the carrier, it can be positioned so that the hammer comes down in exactly the spot you want it to of the tapping out process. To get started, I put some pencil lines on the bevel side that corresponds to the flat area on the back that needs to be reestablished. 

Then I can use the device to start tapping. The point of the hammer is positioned about 2/3 to ¾ of the way up from the edge. I’ll start tapping with the hammer while sliding the plane blade back and forth, concentrating on the area that I marked with the pencil lines.

It’s hard to quantify how hard I’m hitting the blade with the hammer, but it’s probably in the ballpark of how I would be hammering a finish nail into a piece of pine. You will leave little dents in the soft layer of steel.

After some tapping, the bottom hard steel layer will be pushed down. You can see this by working the back of the blade after tapping. The flat area behind the cutting edge gets reestablished pretty quickly.

More interestingly, you can see the deformation of the blade from tapping out by working the bevel side of the blade with a coarse stone. The shallow hollow in the middle was created by the tapping out process.

And after more sharpening, that hollow goes away.

Is this device necessary for tapping out? No, but it sure makes it a lot easier. And given how simple the device is, it might not be too hard to rig up something like this on your own.

Auger Bit Extensions

Woodworking in a Tiny Shop - Tue, 04/23/2024 - 7:57pm

This post is a bit long and is for those who have wondered how auger bit extensions work.

I'd been wanting to find an auger bit extension for a long time.  I finally hooked up with a guy from my tool collectors organization (PAST) and bought a Stanley #180, looking in perfect condition.  And he threw in another, very rusty one for good measure.  Total price: $10!  These tool collector guys are awesome! (He asked for $5 - I gave him $10.)

I believe the way these are advertised, they are said to "follow an 11/16" bit".  That means the end where you affix a regular auger bit will fit through an 11/16" hole.  So if you need to bore, say, a 5/8" hole that is greater in depth than your 5/8" auger bit is long, these extensions won't help you.  But if you want to bore a really deep 11/16" or 3/4" or greater diameter hole, this is the tool to help you.  For both of these extensions, the diameter of the large end is 11/16".

Diameter of the business end

In this post, I'll show how each works and what I did to clean them up.

Stanley #180 above, Craftsman below

The first one is a Stanley #180, in near perfect condition.  I think it's not that old, maybe from the '60s or '70s.

STANLEY
MADE IN U.S.A.
NO. 180 - 18 IN.

The tool is made up of three parts: the main shaft, a knurled and threaded sleeve, and the head into  which a regular auger bit is inserted.  I don't know if these are the proper names for these parts.

Yellow arrows are main shaft, red is the knurled sleeve
and green is the "head"

This photo shows the underside of the head (from previous photo).
The pen points to a key-way cut into the larger diameter part of the shaft.
Half-way up the head a key was punched that slides in the shaft key-way
and keeps the head from rotating on the shaft.

The portion of the shaft that is inside the head has a larger diameter than the majority of the shaft.  That larger diameter portion of the shaft has another purpose.  The knurled and threaded sleeve, which can slide most of the way up and down the shaft, butts up against that larger diameter so it can't slide further up.

Pen point shows the sleeve butted up against the larger portion of shaft

When the head is pulled down to the threaded sleeve, the sleeve can be rotated to engage the inside threads of the head, thus pulling the head towards the sleeve.

Red arrow points to the end of the shaft inside the head.
The sleeve's threads are just starting to engage the lower end of the head.

With the sleeve's threads fully engaged and pulling the head down,
the shaft protrudes further into the end of the head.
This forces the square shank of an auger bit up against the end of the head.

Now look inside the head so you can see the end of the shaft.  It accepts the square tapered shank of an auger bit.  When the sleeve is tightened, the head is pulled down and a bit is locked in place.

Note the square opening at the end of the shaft, seen inside the head.
Its orientation is important.

Here is an auger bit inserted.  Note its orientation.

When the sleeve is tightened, the shoulders of the bit's square, tapered shank
are forced against the inside shoulders of the head to lock the bit in place.

If the opening at the end of the shaft was not oriented as it is, the bit would not be held securely against the shoulders of the head.

The second bit extension works in a similar way, but with a different mechanism.  Here is my attempt to show the inscription on the shaft.  It was tough getting a decent picture of it.  These four pics are supposed to be shown side-by-side - hopefully that is how it is for your browser / phone screen.




It says: CRAFTSMAN on the top line and MADE IN U.S.A. A-I on the second line.  I'm not certain what the "A-I" part means, but it may be a code for whatever company made it for Sears.

This one was extremely rusty and totally locked up when I got it.  I oiled the moving parts several times and left it for a week.  When I got back to it, I wrapped a rag around the threaded sleeve and a wrench was able to loosen it.

Yellow arrow is the main shaft, red is the knurled sleeve
and green is the "head"

For this bit extension, the sleeve does not slide up and down the shaft.  It is fixed in position, but it can rotate so that its threads engage the inside threads of the head.  As it does, the head moves up or down the shaft.

In the above pic, note the L-shaped cutout in the head.  Through that cutout, you see the shaft.  At the far left of the cutout, you can see a pin that extends into the L from the shaft.  This pin limits the travel of the head.  But importantly, when the knurled sleeve is turned and the head has moved up, the pin locates at the right end of the L slot and allows the head to rotate 1/8 of a turn.

Sleeve threads fully engaged, head fully retracted, shaft showing inside.
Note how shaft's square opening is 1/8 turn off of head's square opening.

Here, sleeve threads are disengaged, pushing head up.
Now the pin is at the angle of the L

Here's a look down inside the head while it's pushed up.
Again, note how the square hole at end of shaft is angled from the head's square hole.

With head extended, turn the head 1/8 turn (pin slides in short arm of the L)
and the square holes will align.  This allows a bit's square tapered shank to be inserted.

After inserting a bit and rotating the head 1/8 turn, you tighten
the bit in the head using the threaded sleeve.  The offset square holes
of shaft and head force the corners of the bit's square tapered shank
against the inside shoulders of the head.

This allows a bit to be held firmly.  I've noticed that a little wiggling might be needed to get the bit into better alignment with the bit extender's shaft.  But when they're aligned, it really works great.

Here it is in use for a practice hole

As rusty as it was, this bit extender cleaned up nicely

This one took a fair amount of sanding to clean it up.  But it looks fine now and works perfectly.

So that's it on bit extensions.  I'm sure there are other designs out there with different mechanisms.  But at least now I know how these two do what they're supposed to do.

Woodfinishing Video In The Pipeline

The Barn on White Run - Tue, 04/23/2024 - 2:31pm

This is the original DVD case cover art. I’m leaving the front pretty much alone but reworking the back extensively.

One of the ongoing headaches(?) has been the inability to resupply my inventory for the historic woodfinishing video F&W Media (PopWood) produced several years ago, which I had available on the donsbarn.com website store.  The new company that now owns PopWood discontinued the hard copies of the DVD and no longer even had “new old stock” copies in the warehouse.  After some back-and-forth the new company released the video to me gratis, for which I am most appreciative.  At Handworks 2023 the editor-in-chief made a point of confirming our earlier correspondence; my F&W videos were now my intellectual property to use as I saw fit.

The urgency of me acting on this came to a head a few months ago when my final copy was sold.  Since then I have been noodling the revisions of the original DVD cover and am now ready to send it off for reproduction after I let it ruminate for a couple days.  While the DVD content was now my property I had no desire to disavow F&W from the picture as they truly deserve all the credit for producing it in the first place.  Thus I am keeping the bones of the original packaging, crediting F&W, but revising the content a fair bit to re-brand it as a Barn on White Run product.

As soon as I get copies into my hands I will be fulfilling the two dozen orders that have been sitting in my “Pending” folder.

Categories: Hand Tools

still not done......

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 04/23/2024 - 3:43am

 I have three projects in varying stages with two close to being done and one I just started. I thought the portable chest of drawers would get a check mark today but it didn't happen. Maybe tomorrow I will get to do that. Got two coats of shellac on the lid with two more to go. Should finish that up today if I go back to the shop. Surprised myself with getting the new Lost Art Poster frame glued up. I hadn't planned on that at all. Quit the shop early today because it was so nice outside. I went for an extended walk instead.

 nice

This corner has two fingers of end grain to long grain from the bridle joint. I resisted the urge to unclamp it last night and let it cook until this AM. Both ends are tight on both sides and the end. The center 'finger' of the bridle joint is long grain to long grain.

 too big

The hinge goes past the edge a strong 1/8". I wanted it to be flush with the inside face of the box.

 this is working

I planed this scrap of pine so that when the barrel is against it, the hinge is flush with the inside face.

 flush

I had no hiccups installing the hinges considering this style used to kick my arse royally. The front edge of the lid is barely flush with the front of the box. I don't expect the lid to do any stupid wood tricks but this is too close for comfort. I don't have a warm and fuzzy about it for the long haul.

 it still works

I filled the hinge holes in with toothpicks and redid them so the barrel was up tight to the outside face. I have enough room to tilt the tray to get it in/out with no hiccups. The lid now extends past the front a 1/8".

banding

I am going to put this on the bottom of the box to hide the plywood end grain showing.

 sanding block box lid

The first coat of shellac disappeared as soon as I put it on this side of the plywood. On the other side it didn't do absorb it nearly as bad. Might have to throw more than 3 coats I planned on applying.

happy with this

Used the off cuts from the mitering to dial in the 45's.

 happy face on

Dry fit of the frame after shooting the 45's. The first dry fit without the clamps looked good also. All the miters closed up and the frame sides all aligned.

 the other two miters

Tight, aligned, and gap free. I tried to cut the miters on the tablesaw with the Osborne miter gauge but it was off a degree. Two miters closed up but the four legs wouldn't align. Just as well as I prefer to shoot them. I can still use the Osborne to rough cut miters though.

 spot on

I think I got this dead on what I need. The long leg is a 1/8 over 18" and I'll have to wait and see how the poster lays in the frame. I don't plan on using a mat for this poster but I will have it glassed and mounted.

 weighing the corners

This is to keep the frame flat. One corner wasn't laying 100% flat on the bench before I put a plane in each corner.

 banding on

I glued and nailed the banding on. My usual go to is to glue it only. This is going to live its life in my shop and I don't mind seeing nails in it. I will plane, sand, or scrape a chamfer or a round over of the banding. I don't like the thick squared off look of it.

 moved it

I didn't want to disturb this but I needed the workbench for something else. I moved it to the tablesaw and it will cook in the clamps until the AM rolls around.

carcass is done

I got all the shellac I want on the carcass. I need to get a couple more coats on the front this drawer to be done 100%.

 2nd coat

The shellac disappeared pretty quick with the 2nd coat too. Not as bad as the first one and I'll definitely have to up the coat count.

accidental woodworker

Birdsill Holly – the first metal block plane

Working By Hand - Mon, 04/22/2024 - 9:26am

Many people likely think the first true metal block plane was the Stanley No.9½, which appeared in 1872, but it wasn’t the first block plane. The first cast iron plane produced in North America was that of Hazard Knowles, in 1827. The first cast iron block planes were actually produced by Birdsill Holly in the 1850s. Born in 1820 in Auburn NY, at the age of 10 Birdsill Holly first apprenticed to a cabinetmaker, then a machinist. Although only having a 3rd grade education, Holly was a natural inventor. In 1848 together with Horace C. Silsby and Washburn Race Holly formed the company Silsby, Race & Holly Co. located in Seneca Falls NY. There he was the visionary behind the manufacture of hydraulic machinery and steam-powered fire engines.

The bench plane from Birdsill Holly‘s patent (US9,094)

The planes produced by Holly were very interesting, but honestly they seemed like a bit of a sideline because the company did not manufacture the planes for very long, only 1852-1859. In 1852 Holly received a patent (No.9094) for a “Hand-plane”, with improvements to metal hand planes, and began producing planes. The bench planes had a novel design with the base basically in the form of a flat iron. Instead of the blade being held in the plane by a wooden wedge, this new design used a metal sleeve with a locking screw. The underside of the sole in these bench planes sometimes incorporated relief holes to reduce friction, and other times offset corrugations, one of the first manufactures to incorporate this technology.

The bench planes were followed by what is arguably the first true metal block plane. The block plane had a tapered, boat-like shape, with a “shoebuckle” lever cap design. The lever cap essentially had cutouts in it, and pivots on the same type of metal rod found in simple block planes. A metal wedge or pin made or cast iron or brass would be slid in to hold the cutter down. Later versions had a brass screw cap to lock the lever cap against the cutter. There are very few of these block planes, and likely they were never commercially manufactured. However the plane design did contribute heavily to the development of the Stanley No.110 block plane, one of Stanley’s earliest designs. The 110 was essentially a complete rip-off of the Holly’s plane, but was completely legal as Holly has never patented the design. The other amazing thing about this block plane is that fact that it had 15° bed angle.

The Holly block plane

In 1859, around the time plane manufacturing ended, Holly created his own company, Holly Manufacturing Company in Lockport NY, where he worked on fire protection systems. In 1877 Holly formed Holly Steam Combination Company, working on a steam heating system. By the end of his life in 1894 Holly had amassed more than 150 patents. These block planes, if you are fortunate enough to find one, sell for upwards of US$1000 these days.

Categories: Hand Tools

closing in ........

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 04/22/2024 - 3:13am

 I thought I would get the sanding block box and the portable chest of drawers done today but it didn't happen. I came oh so close but I'll need some more time to do it. So I started another project - a frame for a Lost Art Poster. Along with that my wife found two more paintings done by her mother's twin sister. I'll be making frames for those two but with a caveat. My wife wants an input on what the frame will look like. Looking forward to that because at best all she has ever said is I don't like that. I asked for a pic of frame she likes so I don't waste time and materials.

 glue has set

I was surprised by how solid this felt. I whacked it pretty good with my fist and nada. I'm still going to build it out to strengthen it further.

 trim screws

The first item to tic off is to put a couple of angled screws in the broken half lap. These are trim head screws that were the longest I could find in the shop. 

 1/2" thick oak

This was glued and screwed to both halves of the broken half lap part.

 drats, and double drats

In spite of pre drilling the oak it still split on me. Of the 8 screws, 4 of them caused splits. This one I had to clamp it because it was about half the length of the oak.

 dime short and a day late

I was committed to making a new sandpaper tray but I don't have to now. The sandpaper wouldn't fit in the tray if I make it smaller. I'll have to live with it as is.

 lid stock

I made the lid rails and stiles the thickness of 3 pieces of 5.2mm plywood. That turned out to be around 5/8" thick.

bridle joinery

I got a good fit on all four corners with some overlap I'll trim later.

 missed it

The mortises and tenons are long because I didn't account for the center groove. It wouldn't have been a big deal but it made the lid width (F/B) short. I made the rails/stiles longer than needed but not quite enough. The lid was short of the front edge a strong 32nd.

 didn't improve

I tried playing with the bridle joints opening them up a wee bit and I did get it to overhang but at the expense of gaps. I have the time to think of a fix while the glue cooks.

 no gaps

The diagonals on the inside are less than a 16th off from each other. Set this aside to cook while I went and had lunch.

still holding

I have handled this a lot since I glued it and so far, so good. I don't think that this will open up again on me.

 new poster

I went searching for this and found it by me-steak this AM. I don't know where in the shop I can hang it but I'll make the frame first. Then I will worry about where it will live.

 tray is done

I planed the top and bottom sides flush and I'm calling it done. I don't plan on putting any shellac on it. I will put 3-4 coats on the outside of the box and both sides of the lid.

flushing the lid joints

I sawed the majority of the proud off and flushed them with my favorite blockplane (LN 102).

 I don't like

After giving this my very best goofy looks I had a brain spasm. I had the thought to plane a small chamfer on the front of the box edge and the underside of the lid. I didn't like the visual image of that so it got nixed.

 the winner

I glued a 1/8" thick piece of pine to the back edge. 

glued and cooking

I could have flushed this today but I decided to let it cook in the clamps until tomorrow. There is end grain to long grain on the ends that may or may not cooperate to fret about.

prepping the frame

Rough sawing the miters by hand first. Later I will shoot them on the shooting board.

 not to shabby IMHO

I'm getting better miters after hand sawing them. This isn't perfect but considering it was sawn by me, I'll take it as an improvement. The blue tape is clamping a piece that blew off on me. I was taking all the precautions and it still did it and pissed me off. Most likely the frame will be left natural and the blowout is on the inside edge so it will be less noticeable there.

 oversized

The poster is 13" x 19". The poster has a white border that is a 1/2" wide that goes 360 around the poster. I want the inside edge of the frame to be on the line between the white border and the poster. I was overly generous with how much meat I left myself for wiggle room. I might saw off another chunk to save my arm from planing off so much.

accidental woodworker

Carcass Saw Pear

Two Lawyers Toolworks - Sun, 04/21/2024 - 7:39am
280mm long (11") 55mm deep (2 1/8") 14 TPI Crosscut Pedderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12692353908068506678noreply@blogger.com0
Categories: Hand Tools

so far, so good.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 04/21/2024 - 3:09am

It is not for a want to start a new project but what to make. I do know the next one is going to be my bedside table but I got nothing design wise. I got a sketch I made last week but I've done nothing with it. Part of the problem is how much crap I want to put on it and have it look like it still belongs in the bedroom. This might the first instance where I would build a scrap wood prototype and then the real thing in a nice hardwood. I've been running ideas through the brain bucket but so far none has made it from one end to the other.

 last night

After filling the pie hole last night I went to the shop and glued the slips in on the sides.

 no rush

I like the tung oil finish on this cherry handle a lot. Decided to put on 4th coat and tomorrow I'll rub it down with 4-0 steel wool and Howard's feed 'n wax.

it fits

The veneer didn't fit in the kerf from the LV gents saw but it did fit in the LN carcass saw kerf. I wanted to make sure that the veneer would fit before I applied any glue.

 the real dry fit

I think the veneer is maple and I do have pine veneer but I used maple. Pine is too soft and I didn't want to risk it freezing or breaking off in the saw kerf.

glued and cooking

No hiccups getting the veneer bottomed out in the saw kerf. The kerf is tapered with the deep end at the front going to nothing about 6-7 inches back.

changed clamps

The bar clamp at the front wasn't applying enough pressure to close the kerf on the veneer. The bessey was up to the job. I did a quick check on the fit of the drawer and it will go in which surprised me a lot.

 the replacement drawer

I only planed the top four corners and the slips flush. That little bit of planing was enough to get the front of the drawer into the opening. It was only the corners as it was still too long R/L. I'll do the final fitting once the veneer job has set.

sanding block box

I am going with a tray on top of them to hold spare sandpaper strips. It isn't going to be that deep - maybe 3/4 to 5/8 inch - but it should be sufficient to stow the strips.

 mitered tray

Well boys and girls 3 times wasn't the charm for me. This is the 4th tray I made. I screwed up the order of operations twice on the other 3. I should have ripped them to width first and then saw the groove for the bottom. After I did that brain fart twice the 3rd on I sawed one side a 1/2" short.

 hmm......

I made the box small so I could move it and pull out a sanding block. This one fits but I can only pull out the two on the ends. Thinking of making another tray smaller so I have access to pulling out two sanding blocks.

 they fit

I have about a 1/8" wiggle room. I thought it was going to be a 1/4" but this works and it may not even make it to the finish line.

 looks good

Got the veneer flushed to the end and at the front. It doesn't jump out at me but I don't think anyone looking at it casually would pick it out. It blends in with the end  panel pretty good.

 head on

The end grain of the veneer and the end grain of the carcass are a good fit for color. The only hiccup is the veneer is 90° to it but it is thin and has no gaps.

went slow and easy

Took a while but I'm happy with the margins. 

 better

I think it was worth the calories to make this drawer over again. I got a better fit this time around.

yikes!

My bench slave broke a foot. I made this in 1991 and this will be the 3rd repair I'm making to it. The first one was gluing the half lap back together. The 2nd one was chopping a mortise and tenon to attach the half lapped feet to the post. The first one was screwed but it didn't hold up. This I'll have to fix right away because I use this all the time.

 quick preview

I have two more coats to put on the chest of drawers and 4 more on the veneer repair. I will keep an eye on the repair as I move this around to apply shellac to it.

 hmmm.....

I squared off the end of the foot and the 'tenon'. There isn't much meat here for just a glue repair.

step one

The repair is going to be a two stepper. The first one is gluing the foot back into place on the half lap. I will let this cook until tomorrow. Step two I will glue and screw a board to the bottom of this half lap covering it from end to end. I think that will be a solid repair that will hold up.

 5 feet away

Looking at this from this distance I can pick out the veneer repair. Since I know where and what to look for I can pick it out. However, it could easily be taken for a grain line in the pine. Still not sure if I would give this away because of that. I'll have to run it by my wife and see if she can pick it out.

accidental woodworker

Cherry Bowl Finished

David Fisher - Carving Explorations - Sat, 04/20/2024 - 12:17pm
I’ve finished the cherry bowl that I mentioned in my recent Drying Revisited post. The oil has cured and it’s ready to serve. I’ll share a few more shots of the finished bowl below, but first some photos of some … Continue reading
Categories: Hand Tools

Chambered body e-mando build part 1

A Luthiers Blog - Sat, 04/20/2024 - 8:06am

Work is now underway on my next chambered body e-mando. Below you can see the all work that goes into its core which, once the instrument is complete will never ever be seen!

I always treat my wood as precious and try to keep waste to a minimum; therefore, rather than machine the core from one large lump of wood, I laminate it from strips. Also, this method allows me to cut channels for the wiring to run through the body and creates a cavity under the where the bridge will sit.

Once all the of the core has been glued together, a strip of hardwood (maple in this case) is used to reinforce the end joints. . . . . . .
. . . . and then a piece of plywood is inserted, this will take the threaded endpin jack-socket.
With all that done, the final shape can be cut out.

Here you can see the rebate which will eventually take two panels which will “close-up” the chambers.

a few tools for sale, cleaning the loft

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Sat, 04/20/2024 - 6:32am

Last week I spent at least 4 full days, maybe more, cleaning and sorting my shop. When I got home from teaching the JA chair at Galbert’s I had a lot of stuff to put away. Rather than the usual “stuff-it-in-the loft” – I sorted everything. The loft has a number of tools that I gathered here and there, some of which I’ve either not used in over 10 years or never used. If you’d like to help me clear some space – pick a tool and send me an email or comment and we’ll sort the details. I’ll add shipping through USPS to the prices listed. To keep it simple, I’ll ship the tool(s), then we can either use paypal or you can send a check.

Email is Peterfollansbee7@gmail.com

————-

Tongue plane

tongue plane w fence

A large, mid-19th century tongue plane with an adjustable fence. The tongue is 5/16″ wide, the iron is
1 5/8″. Body is 13 1/4″ long. Beech. Maker is Arrowmammet Works in Middletown, CT. Date stamped on the toe 1875…but the American Plane Makers book says they sold the works in 1857. Maybe the stamp went along with the sale…

iron & wedge

It’s in fine shape, but I never tuned it up. So it’ll need a cleaning and sharpening.
$50 plus shipping.

——————–

Badger plane

This one has been here for over 12 years – and I’ve never used it, neither did Jennie Alexander when it was hers. I picked it out when we were selling off her tools before she died because I had never seen one. Said to be useful for raising panels – something I don’t do. A beautiful Sheffield iron – heavy, thick. The body too is heavy and solid, though there is a crack in it. Looks to be hornbeam or something like that – not beech.

badger plane & iron
badger plane sole

16″ long, body is 2 7/8″ wide, iron 2 1/4″
$50 plus shipping

——————-

Dutch (I think) molding plane

Dutch molding plane

Not an antique – a never-used molding plane. Like the badger plane, when Jennie sent these tools up here, I kept this one – never having seen one. But now, I’ve seen it for about 12 years, so someone else’s turn.

molding plane & iron

All it needs is sharpening and away you go.

L: 9 1/2″, body 1 3/4″ wide
$50 plus shipping

————

Dado plane

dado plane

This one needs cleaning & sharpening, and the nicker’s wedge is there, but its top is broken off. 3/4″ wide iron. No mark I can see on it.

dado plane & irons
dado plane irons & depth stop

So a project – if anyone buys one of the other planes & wants this, I’ll toss it in. If you just want this, $20 plus shipping.

——————

3/8″ English mortise chisel

I used it a good bit. I made the handle, now with a small crack – and missing its leather “washer” between the handle and bolster. So a small project to either fix this handle or replace it. I think it’s marked Moseley & Simpson. (yup).

$40 plus shipping

the crack from hell........

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 04/20/2024 - 3:07am

 I was putting the 3rd coat of shellac on the portable chest of drawers when I noticed it. It jumped out at me and slapped me upside the head. The split/crack that I have tried to glue twice was saying hello again. That let the wind out of the sails real quick. Not sure what or how to address it. My first thoughts were to saw down the crack and glue in a piece of veneer. Those dance steps didn't happen today but I might do the two step with it tomorrow.

 5.2mm plywood

There are two defects on this side (which is the out face) that I will cut out. This is a shop box so I don't have to go full nutso anal on it. This was the first thing on the to do list today.

 new drawer

This is 2nd on to do today. I tired to get this knocked out before lunch.

 3rd item on the to do list

4-5 coats should do the trick for this. I have two on it so I should be able to get 2 more on today.

 fitting the new drawer

Got the width dialed in. Length (R/L) was in the batters circle.

 R/L dead on

I know I didn't do anywhere near as good with this one as I did with the original.

 copying the original

This is something I rarely do but I'm doing it here. The drawer stops are set and dialed in for this drawer. I added a few frog hairs to this for planing allowance.

it's an asset

I thought the length of this saw might have been a PITA and take time to get used to. Instead I found it to work to my advantage. The length made it incredibly easy to line up on the gauge line and get and keep it square while sawing. However, it was too long when I tried to saw the half blinds on the front. I had to do them with the LN dovetail saw.

replacement drawer

Got the drawer glued and cooking along with the front drawer slip. I have the sides sawn and fitted too. I'll glue them in after the front has cooked for a few hours.

too long or too short

It depends upon how you perceive a bottle at the half way mark. I didn't measure the sandpaper before I made this box. I made the ends as long as the stock allowed. 

 close but no cigar

I'm a 1/4" short. It kind of fits but this would bug me to no end. 

where the crack said hello

I was getting ready to put on the shellac and saw this. The moving around I did with it was enough to split it again. I don't have a warm and fuzzy that it won't open up even more. 

 sandpaper tray

There is some room above the sanding blocks in the box for this tray. I want the sandpaper for the sanding blocks to be readily available for them. I thought of putting it in a file folder but that idea got nixed. I had plenty of leftover stock from the drawer build to use to make this tray. I'll finish it up tomorrow.

 need a green one

I know me and I won't sleep until I have a fourth one in this box. There was no need to divide it to hold 3 for changing it later to four. A new sanding block is $30 so I'll have to boost my total till I get to the free shipping from Lee Valley.

accidental woodworker

A new Wheelbarrow Class

Elia Bizzari - Hand Tool Woodworking - Fri, 04/19/2024 - 12:40pm

Peter and I are at it again. Last year’s wheelbarrow class was so much fun we’ve decided to do it again. A local sawmill is at work sawing one of the last green ash logs in the Piedmont for barrow frames (no thanks to you Mr. Emerald Ash Borer) and we’ve got Roy Underhill’s foot-powered mortiser in the wings ready for mortising emergencies. Should be a grand time. Here’s the details:

Learn to make a traditional wheelbarrow! First, Elia will help you mortise the wheel’s hub, shave its spokes and fit its fellies. With the wheel under way, you’ll begin learning basic blacksmithing techniques as Peter helps you forge the brackets and braces for your wheelbarrow. Peter will make the tires for the wheels, then we’ll heat them in a fire, tap them onto the wheels, then dunk the wheels in a vat of water to shrink the tire and lock the wheel in its iron grip.  Once the wheels are done, we’ll begin mortise-and-tenoning the barrow’s wooden frame. Students will go home with a finished wheel and a partially-completed barrow, plus all the parts and knowledge needed to finish it.

 September 9th-14th, 2024 

Visit the Traditional Wheelbarrow page for more info and to register

About Peter Ross:  Peter is a nationally recognized artisan blacksmith. After 23 years as master of the blacksmith shop at Colonial Williamsburg, he moved to rural North Carolina and now operates his own shop. Peter specializes in museum-quality reproductions of hardware and furnishings for historic houses, working mainly with the hand-tool methods used in pre-industrial England and America.

Chairmaking class info can be found on my teaching page.

;

The post A new Wheelbarrow Class first appeared on Elia Bizzarri - Hand Tool Woodworking.
Categories: Hand Tools

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