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Building a kerf plane

Giant Cypress - Thu, 09/14/2017 - 3:48am
Building a kerf plane:

Barry Lynch does a terrific job building a kerfing plane based on Japanese plane design.

started the till.......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 09/14/2017 - 1:18am
My till is going to be a lift out one. It will be one large and it will have one or maybe two sliding tills in it. I'm not crazy about sliding tills back and forth to get access what is underneath them. I don't have a lot of experience with them in toolboxes but I do use them in drawers. I like putting stuff I use most of the time in the sliding till and stuff I seldom use in the bottom of the drawer. That seems to work for me and I'm going to try it on the toolbox.

the till stock
This has been stickered for a day and it is still straight. The far right one has a teeny bit of cup but it shouldn't interfere with the dovetailing to come.


Stanley 71 box done
I've already snapped the outside glamour shot. Tonight is the inside of the box glamour shot. I've picked the box up several different ways and there is definitely a weight tilt on the far side. When I picked it up I adjusted for the weight bias without any problems. The box having no handles and being too big to pick up with one hand helps too. This box has to be picked up with two hands.

it fits beneath the bearer for the till.
I'm rethinking stowing the 71 box in the toolbox. It's contents are protected and don't need to be further protected in the toolbox. It also eats up a lot of real estate which I hadn't thought of before making it. I want to get Miles a plow plane too and that will need a box. Another box will lead to a loss of more toolbox real estate. These might get stowed on top of the toolbox once it has it's full compliment of tools.

squared one end of the till pieces
Once I squared one end I set one long side and short in the box and knifed the length.

squared the other end
 I wish that I could do the width of multiple pieces the same as easily as I can to length. Practice, practice, practice, is the only thing that is going to do it for me there.


almost done
I got the tails done and I marked out the pins. I had expected to get this done tonight but there isn't any rush on it. Tomorrow I'll saw and chop the pins and maybe get it glued up.

And that is the way it was, Wednesday, September 13, 2017.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
45 rpm vinyl records when first made in 1949 and came in various colors. What did the color green mean?
answer - that it was a country record - Eddie Arnold had the first song on the first 45 made by RCA


Big bottles are awkward

Journeyman's Journal - Wed, 09/13/2017 - 9:41pm

glue-bottles

This afternoon I was gluing a part of the grip I sawed off back on the moulding plane. While I was gluing up I thought to myself, how much simpler it is to use these small dispensable bottles than it would be using those large ones that come with the glue.

It’s easier to hold in my hand and I actually use less.  Old Brown Glue on the right will expire on 17th of this month, however it doesn’t mean that it will go off in three days. I’ve kept in a cool dark place for the last 12 months.  If it’s runny out of the bottle and it isn’t a hot day then it’s probably gone off, but that still isn’t a good indication if it has.  I usually go by smell and hide glue if gone off has the smell of a dead carcass.

I buy 50 ml (1.75 ounces) bottles from a $2 store, not sure what you would call it overseas.  For hide glue, heating it up in a small bottle is quicker than it is in the large standard bottle.  It’s also cheaper to buy the large 20 oz bottle than it is to buy their smaller ones.  I know people prefer to buy small bottles of the stuff but it’s not good economics to do so.  If you use the stuff regularly then you will have many refills at a fraction of the price and your not throwing your money on what costs a lot and that is shipping fees.

Once the bottle empties don’t throw it in the bin, unless you’ve emptied the large ones. If you have, don’t refill the smaller bottles with newer fresh glue because these glues are organic and you don’t want to contaminate fresh glue with old glue.

Here’s something that’s going to blow your socks off. I just had a delivery from Star Track. The driver is an owner driver (contractor), he told me that a small parcel costs $1.40 to deliver in my case it was a DVD.  I paid $12 for this delivery!  So think about it, I pay $40 for shipping for the fish glue and $20 for OBG because it was within Australia. Imagine how much I save because I buy the larger bottles than if I had of purchased the smaller one several times in a year.


Categories: Hand Tools

Shooting Summer In The Foot

Inside the Oldwolf Workshop - Wed, 09/13/2017 - 7:20pm
I'm going to spend the next few posts updating on cool thing that have been accomplished and do a little weather vane pointing into the future.

I have finally had time to sit down and reflect back on the past two plus months. They have been busy and productive and exhausting but they have not produced much I feel needs to take up space on this blog or in your reader feed. There has been sawdust, a lot of sawdust, but there has been no furniture nor techniques in the realm of "fine" woodworking,

It started early July with a project that was supposed to eat up maybe two weeks. We have a gazebo structure in our backyard and the previous owner build boardwalks between it and the back door, however the steps out of the back door were narrow, lacking a handrail, and it was torturous watching my Mother-in-Law step out and try and close the door behind herself. We decided building a small deck would be a safer platform for everybody and at the same time I'd complete the fencing around the yard which was 80% done. 

I interrupted my work to help my own parents expand their deck enclosure/dog run and to build a large chicken coop for my sisters new home. She was moving and needed a new place for the birds. The best part of these interruptions is that I got to spend some time working with my dad. 

Of course there are the standard interruptions and hitches that happen with any home improvement project. From removing substandard outdoor wiring to having to replace the entire boardwalk, to having to figure out how to run a 12' stretch of fence, with a gate, across a cement covered area. 

The projects are done now and I can start doing something in the shop again . . . but wait, the shop is trashed, absolutely trashed. When I'm working in my shop I am meticulous, I clean up and put things away in between stages and I keep myself well organized. Apparently that doesn't happen when I'm juggling my own outdoor project and dragging a truck full of tools off to build things elsewhere. Every workbench surface is covered with tools and toolboxes, empty Menards bags and scraps of pressure treated wood, boxes of decking screws and oh I can't go on. It's going to take me two solid days to get the shop workable again.










Along the way I have to find space to keep a few new friends. I purchased a cheap no-name chopsaw to help with all the deck cutting. I gave my old one away years ago and hadn't missed it until I dived unto the construction project world again. There's not a lot of call for it in my furniture work, the cheap ones aren't accurate enough, but I still have to find a place to store it. I've also added a Grizzly 22" scroll saw, to up my marquetry game, I found it for sale used for a very good price but I haven't had time to do more than clean it up and make sure it goes. Changing blades is a trick but with some practice I'll get the hang of it. Still I have to figure out a station or a way/place to store it. 

Still all good problems to have. 

Ratione et Passionis
Oldwolf
Categories: General Woodworking

Stanley 200 honing guide

Oregon Woodworker - Wed, 09/13/2017 - 2:02pm
We were passing by an estate sale the other day and stopped to take a look.  The guy was a hoarder and there were boxes of junk scattered around the yard.  Something caught my eye and, when I picked it up, it appeared to be a vintage Stanley honing guide, though I had never heard of it.  I took it to the seller, offered him $5 for it and he asked me what it was.  I told him what I thought and he immediately went on Ebay and found one for $110.   I am sure I could have bought the entire box for $5 and, of course, I didn't have to tell him what it was, but that's me.  Obviously irritated, I put it back and he promptly told me he would take $5 for it.

So, here is what it looks like after I cleaned it up:


It's got some light pitting on the roller that doesn't affect use.  You can alter the angle of the blade either by varying how far it protrudes from the guide or turning the acme-threaded rod on the roller.  One of the things that intrigued me about it is that it is long enough to let you have the roller off the sharpening medium.  I like this idea because I use diamond paste and it keeps the roller from being contaminated:


I sort of assumed it wouldn't work very well because you don't read about them and, so far as I was aware, there is only a cheap modern version that is anything like it.  However, I tried it out on this plane blade and it worked really well.  I've got the roller a little low in the picture, but there is a lot of flexibility in how you adjust it.  I wasn't sure how well the thumbscrews would work, but they held the blade securely.

Now I'm wondering why a guide like this seems to have fallen out of use.  I did some research and it appears that it wasn't popular because the sharpening medium has to be a uniform thickness or the angle will change.  That isn't a problem with diamond stones, plates and paste or sandpaper but it was a problem with oilstones.  Some woodworkers seem to really like them.  I think it is a keeper.

Here is an interesting video by a luthier who has developed a similar guide that he uses with waterstones.  One of the advantages he claims is that it keeps him from gouging a very soft 8000 grit waterstone he uses.  The way he uses it to polish the back is interesting too.  



Categories: Hand Tools

Tricks of the Trade: Dust Collection for Ports of All Sizes

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 09/13/2017 - 10:23am

I made this adapter to hook up dust collection to the odd-size fitting (2″) on my oscillating sander. Start with a hardwood block that is (in my case) is 3″ x 4″ x 11⁄4” thick. I required a 2″ hole, so I used a 2″ hole saw to drill in the middle of the block. The next thing is to drill the holes for the split-block-clamping and block-attachment holes. I drilled […]

The post Tricks of the Trade: Dust Collection for Ports of All Sizes appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Saw Sharpening Demo at SAPFM-Blue Ridge

The Barn on White Run - Wed, 09/13/2017 - 7:39am

Recently I was a presenter at the SAPFM Blue Ridge Chapter on the topic of saw sharpening.  I would not call myself an accomplished saw sharpener mostly because my results are inconsistent, generally due to the lack of hours at the task.  But there are times when the result is excellent, for example my favorite old back saw that I last sharpened sometime in the 1980s and has cut hundreds of joints since, and remains sharp and the cuts crisp and clean.

Using some oversized props I reviewed the notions of tooth spacing and shape (rake, and fleam), and how these come into play for crosscutting and ripping at varying degrees of scale, precision and effectiveness.

I the moved through the nearly unlimited options for holding the saw during sharpening, and finally set up to actually doing some sharpening under less-than-ideal conditions of a large lumber warehouse with diffuse illumination.  I find that getting the lighting correct is perhaps the most important thing when sharpening a saw, and this setting wasn’t it.

My explanation of the process was certainly better than the actual sharpening during the demo, but I think the attendees got the idea.

As an aside, I was delighted I had my petite Roubo bench with me and realize that it has become a treasured part of my traveling side-show kit, as it fits neatly into the back of my S-10, is moved easily with a hand truck, and performs most excellently.

Ten Ways I am Doing Things Differently - Part 1

Tools For Working Wood - Wed, 09/13/2017 - 4:00am

I've been working with wood since I was a kid. I took my first woodworking class at the 92nd Street Y when I was 6 years old. I've been taking classes and building stuff for over 35 years. For the last 17 I have been working at Tools for Working Wood. In that time, new tools and new techniques have come on the market. By and large I have ignored them in my personal work. However, I haven't ignored everything, and my methods of work have in certain areas changed dramatically for the better. I'll break up my list of ten things into three posts so I don't drone on and on here.

Diamond Stones

I learned on Arkansas stones and I still use them for sharpening carving tools. I really love the feel of the stones. But during the 1990 - 2010 era, I mostly used water stones. Over the years I used many different brands, but nonetheless all water stones. I still use water stones in the kitchen for sharpening knives, but for woodworking tools and when I teach sharpening I use diamond stones do all the rough work. I use an 8000 grit finishing stone at the end because I don't think the 8000 grit diamond stones are nearly as fine, but diamonds do everything else. You can read about my experiments here.

Diamond paste works well but it's too messy for me, and I worry about getting it into my eye. I don't use lapping film, although it's great and popular. For the amount of sharpening I do, it's not practical: I would just blow through too much film. I think lapping film is best for low cost-of-entry on a professional system and for traveling. Some people love lapping film because it's largely maintenance free. It also works well for odd profiles, but it's not for me. The major problem I used to have with diamond stones is that they would wear out quickly and weren't flat. The DMT Dia-Sharp stones solve the latter problem, and by not using them to flatten water stones I solve the former problem. DMT makes lapping plates for flattening water stones, but currently I don't have one (I should but I don't).

The main reason for the switch to diamonds is that I am a lazy sod who is always in a rush. My water stones got out of flat. Water was sloshing everywhere - I didn't do the needed regular flattening and I didn't have a good place for a bucket of water stones. I love Arkansas stones a lot, but for regular chisels and plane blades, I find them slow. For carving tools, diamonds can replace a medium India stone, but diamonds, while cutting fast, leave scratches which would add in a step or two.

Hide Glue
I grew up on Titebond. Back in the 1980's we all felt so superior to those DIYers who still used - horrors! - Elmer's glue, while, we used real wood glue for gluing up our projects. And it was yellow too! What I hated then, and now, about Titebond is that if you ever got it on the wrong spot, you'd have the big hassle of cleaning the wood so that it could take finish. I still use Titebond for gluing Dominos and some other general tasks. But if there is any risk of surface contamination, I much prefer hide glue. Being mostly transparent to finishes = a massive time-saver for me. I don't use hot glue. I suppose I should, but I don't have a place to put the glue pot. I do most of my woodworking snatching odd moments and I just can't think ahead to soak glue pellets. (Why is it that every time I think of the word "pellets," I think of hamsters?) But Old Brown Glue is great stuff, is real hide glue, and put putting it out in the sun or on a radiator for a minute makes it perfect to use. So that's what I do.

Hand Sawing

When I first studied woodworking, it was generally accepted that sawing dovetails by hand was perfectly acceptable, but milling timber and cutting it by hand was a waste of time -- and really impossible to do well. However, in the early days of TFWW, I needed to build a couple of projects and for the first time I didn't have access to a table saw. At the same time, there was a major revival in backsaw manufacture, and a real re-evaluation of handsaws in general. On those early projects I ended up sawing lots and lots of maple by hand, and by the end of the project I was reasonably good at it. These days, I am much more likely to grab a handsaw than to wander back to see if the bandsaw is free. For plywood, I use a Festool plunge saw, but for everything else, I pretty much use our Hardware Store Saw. (I have wonderful Disston saws in my toolbox, but the display Hardware Store saw is physically closer and cuts faster). These days I expect myself to cut square by eye. Then normal procedure is to use a shooting board to complete the job (if real accuracy is needed).

I'll continue my list next time. What's on your list? I love traditional methods for doing stuff. I love history and the feeling that I am walking in the footsteps of those who went before us. On the other hand, I have limited time do build anything. and I value efficiency. I personally like developing hand skills rather than getting single purpose tools, and I am continually learning. So that's why I've change the way I work, and I will continue to change (I hope).

Is New York’s Best Pizza in New Jersey?

Giant Cypress - Wed, 09/13/2017 - 3:18am
Is New York’s Best Pizza in New Jersey?:

Pete Wells, in the New York Times:

Ed and I, having eaten a pizza and a half each, shared a single panna cotta. Then he asked me again: “Are you going to say that the best pizza in New York is in New Jersey?”

I am, Ed. I am.

Reason #62 why New Jersey is better than New York.

done tomorrow......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 09/13/2017 - 1:11am
I had a senior moment tonight that I corrected. Having that episode (again) gave me tonight's blog title. The 71 box will done tomorrow . Fini, complete, over, 100% done, nothing more to do, time to let the oohs and aahs commence. My final glamour shot tomorrow will be anticlimactic because I already posted one.

not the title senior moment
I almost made another set of these for nothing. After I took some medicine that corrected my anal ocular inversion, I saw that I could just turn it.  The one I have in my hand is the original way I was putting them in. Turning them gives me a much wider bearing surface for the till bottom to seat on.

it's a snug fit side to side
top of the scrap is the bottom of the bearer
I set the bearer on top of this and screwed them into the sides. This ensures both bearers are at the same height.

getting the length of till
I made the mark across both sticks at the front and I'm checking it at the back to see if it there is any difference. The mark lined up exactly which means my toolbox sides are the same length.

sawing the till parts to rough length
long side is about 3/16 too long
the same with the ends
I had bought 6 boards and I picked the 3 straightest ones I for this till. I am going to sticker these until tomorrow and I'll start the dovetailing it then.

choices for the bottom
I can use 1/4" birch or 1/8" plywood. My preference is to use 1/8" over the 1/4". But the 1/8" will be the wanna be and 1/4" will be used. I don't think the 1/8" would be strong enough. It's too big of a bottom span for it.

first handle idea
As I was looking at this pic I thought of something else. I made the space for the chain to fall in but maybe I can put this on the other side and thread a rope handle through it?

the blog title senior moment
I was fixated on getting my hardware for this and spaced out that I have 80 or more of these. I could have been done with this yesterday.

almost bottomed out
I drilled a hole and threaded it with my homemade tap. With the fence, washer, and the holder thickness, the screw won't bottom out.

cutting it down
I don't need to spend ten minutes screwing this all the way in or out.  I cut it to a 1/2" long under the head.
enough room to screw this in/out with my ham hock fingers
I would need a stubby
If I had used one of the screws coming from McMaster-Carr I would have had to use a screwdriver. I don't have the strength in my fingers to grasp the head of the screw and take it out or in. Not to mention that I would have to search for a stubby screwdriver that I know I don't have.

glued with hide glue - this will be done tomorrow
the man in brown came
As I was writing this blog he came and dropped off my goodies from McMaster. Two 10-24 screws from Lowes, with tax are over $2. For $5 and change I got a hundred and I probably have a lifetime supply of them. Miles too most likely.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the birthday flower for November?
answer - chrysanthemum

Let’s Talk About a Sticky Topic

Paul Sellers - Wed, 09/13/2017 - 12:50am

Periodically, not too often enough to be overly concerned, someone makes a statement about this or that, types in IMHO and moves on. You know that there is nothing humble about it really, just a comment tossed over the shoulder as they walk away from any kind of accountability for it. “Too much glue!”, one …

Read the full post Let’s Talk About a Sticky Topic on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

What is a fundamental skill set for a woodworker?

Heartwood: Woodworking by Rob Porcaro - Wed, 09/13/2017 - 12:15am
woodworking skills
How would you reply if someone asked you, “Are you a good woodworker?” I think most of us seriously involved in the craft eventually ask ourselves this question. So, what might comprise a test of fundamental furniture making skills? Here is what I suggest as a basic skill set for making furniture and accessories. It […] 0
Categories: Hand Tools

Toothing Your Bench. The Deconstruction of Bench Destruction, 6 Months Later.

Fair Woodworking - Tue, 09/12/2017 - 8:18pm
Last March I had a little stroke of good fortune. As occasionally happens at work, I had a four day weekend coming up. At the same time, one of our national airlines was having a seat sale, and Lie-Nielsen was having a Hand Tool Event in Cincinnati. As a result, what started out as a […]
Categories: Hand Tools

Tip of the day – How to cut down on your sharpening time

Journeyman's Journal - Tue, 09/12/2017 - 4:00pm

cheap-stanley

If you’ve read issue two of HANDWORK you’ll understand why it’s a pain to sharpen thick A2 and O1 irons. It’s a necessary evil, but one that can be slightly minimised though.

After re sawing a board you’re left with a rough surface and I can’t tell you how painful it is to put a freshly sharpened thick iron it.  So, by chance I happened to find a cheap Stanley in my shed.  I don’t know when I got it or how much I paid for it but it was there sitting in the bottom of my old toolbox in OK condition.

I cleaned it up and flattened the bottom and didn’t do anything else to it.  The iron sharpened in a jiffy because it’s thin.  I don’t do any finish planing with it, I use it just to take the roughness out and then finish the board off with the rest of my planes.

I still have to sharpen several times in a day, but prepping the board with this cheapy means I save on a couple of trips to the sharpening station.

 


Categories: Hand Tools

How to Prepare Construction Lumber for Furniture

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 09/12/2017 - 11:51am

Construction pine, the stuff you get at the big box stores, has a bad rap with woodworkers. It’s poorly dried, hard to work and moves way too much. It grows too fast so the grain is too wide and varied. It’s for carpentry projects… I also know this. It’s cheap, requires good tool techniques, needs proper design consideration and demands sharp edges. Which makes it perfect for new woodworkers, experiments […]

The post How to Prepare Construction Lumber for Furniture appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Now With Even More Artwork

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Tue, 09/12/2017 - 9:30am

detail_bookcov_0001

One of the best parts of this job is answering angry emails from disgruntled people. Hahaha. Just kidding. One of best parts of this job is working with independent artisans and artists to do stuff that would make my former corporate overlords crap their Brooks Brothers suits.

This month we’ve been working with the supremely talented and creative Andrea Love, a Port Townsend, Wash., artist who specializes in stop-motion animation. You might remember her from this fantastic short for Hand-tool Heaven, or her work from “By Hound & Eye.”

As we were finishing up the latest book by Jim Tolpin and George Walker, titled “From Truths to Tools,” Jim proposed using some sort of adaptation of William Blake’s “The Ancient of Days” on the cover. It’s a fantastic image, but getting it to work on the odd-sized book cover was going to be a challenge.

Then Andrea, who illustrated and lettered “From Truths to Tools,” volunteered to make a watercolor adapted from the Blake painting that would fit the cover – and wrap around the back of the cover, creating a gorgeous package. And she did it in just a few days.

bookcov_0001

If I had suggested commissioning a painting for a book cover at any of my former jobs, I would have been labeled as a mentally defective, half-witted and spendthrift loon (to be fair, I am a loon).

We hope to get this book off to the printer on Friday and start taking pre-publication orders this weekend (details and pricing soon).

— Christopher Schwarz, editor, Lost Art Press
Personal site: christophermschwarz.com


Filed under: From Truths to Tools, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Product Video: Rikon 8 inch Professional Low Speed Bench Grinder

Highland Woodworking - Tue, 09/12/2017 - 8:03am

 

Finally, an exceptional grinder at a reasonable price!

Take a look at the Rikon 8 Inch Professional Low Speed Bench Grinder in this short video tour with Justin Moon. Justin shows how the Rikon grinder runs quietly and smoothly and details how it could be the perfect sharpening addition for your shop.

The post Product Video: Rikon 8 inch Professional Low Speed Bench Grinder appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

"‘Reinventing the Wheel’ straddles a number of different categories: It is a primer, a..."

Giant Cypress - Tue, 09/12/2017 - 3:18am
“‘Reinventing the Wheel’ straddles a number of different categories: It is a primer, a history, a series of ethnographies, and, finally, an attack on much of the received wisdom in the dairy industry. The Percivals take the reader through each stage in the cheese production process, focusing not only on milk and bacterial cultures but also on the breeding and feeding of cows and responsible upkeep of pasturage. Along the way, they make a compelling argument that many cheesemaking traditions, capable of producing some of the most unique cheeses, were neglected or forgotten as industrialization took place at the turn of the 19th century.”

-

Sho Spaeth, in his article “Obsessed: The Fight for Real Cheese” on the Serious Eats website.

One of the themes I come back to when thinking about the differences between Japanese and western tools is that the differences aren’t because Japanese toolmakers came up with a wacky plan to use laminated construction in chisels and plane blades. That same approach was used by western toolmakers back in the day. 

The difference came in how the western world embraced the Industrial Revolution. Laminated steel construction for edge tools couldn’t be easily automated in a factory production environment. So instead of continuing to make a high quality tool, compromises were made in the name of ease of manufacturing.

it's a type 10 to 11......

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 09/12/2017 - 1:14am
Thanx to Bob D I was able to type my 71. And just like trying to type a bench plane, there is a bit slop with typing the 71.  It could be the type where a certain feature first showed up but it also has some of the later ones. I've found that the best I can do is to narrow it down to two or maybe three types. The 71 is that way. It has one feature that first appeared with the type 10 and it matches up too with the type 11.

I like typing a Stanley tool. It's cool to see how it progressed from initial production to what you are holding in your hands now. The progression of the 71 was interesting. The special attachment didn't show up for over 10 years.

been a day it should have set up
won't fit where I want it
This is one downside to making a small tight box. I could notch out for the thumb screw but I don't want to do that. That would make it even tighter getting the 71 out and putting it back.  Another option would be to the iron in the bullnose position. That would reverse the collar and thumbscrew 180°. That would also make it a PITA to use when I have to switch it before I can make shavings.


it barely fits here
The open throat front edge is separated from the holder by two atoms. It's a tight fit. I can take the router out but it's a bit dicey getting it back in. It is easier to slightly tilt it to drop it in but with the holders there, I can't do that. I have put up against the holder and drop it straight down. Not that convenient and awkward.

Another problem is the weight is now all concentrated on this side of the box. Not a deal killer but there isn't much I can do about it.

the lid clears the irons
still no screws for the fence
I could put the fence storage on the other side but I don't think it will do much to counter balance the other side. Since I don't have the screws this isn't set in concrete yet.

got a 16th now
I planed a little off of each side of the holder. There is enough room to put the router back in by tilting it.

the till
The #6 is the tallest tool I can think of that will be in the bottom of the toolbox. This one big till will get two more sliding tills that will fit inside of it. That will all come later.


bearer on the chain side
I saw a toolbox build that dealt with this chain in what I thought was a clever way. I don't like having the chain fall into the till and his solution fixes that. I don't remember who did this but if I do I'll give him credit and post the link.

the till side
If the till side has a space between it and the chain, the chain will naturally fall into it and not the till.

this looks to be enough room
The chain fell straight down into the space. Now I just have to figure out how to make the space.

grecian ovolo on the bottom, the top one I don't the name of it
I think using these on the interior would be lost not to mention not being readily visible.

better choice for the bearer
As of now I'm thinking of only putting bearers on the two short sides to hold the till.  I want to avoid having them as a catch point on the long sides. If I see the till sagging I can revisit this and put a short bearer in the middle on both long sides.

side bearers
The one with the rabbet will go against the side with the chain and give me the space for it.


this should work
The size of the rabbet seems adequate - it's 3/8" square with a 3/8" space on the top.


change one
Decided to use a rabbeted bearer on both sides. There isn't enough space to get my fingers between the till ends and the sides but it'll help some if I put handles on the inside of the till.  The what and how of the handles will take some time to generate a few ideas on. I am going to do change two on the bearers also.  I will make the rabbet bottom 3/4" inch with a 3/8" space for the chain. I don't like the look of the 3/8" square rabbet as it looks to be too small for the till to rest on. I'll make the new bearers tomorrow and start on the till.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
On the Universal Product Code (bar code), what is signified by the digits 2 to 6?
answer -  the Product's manufacturer as assigned by the Uniform Code Council

Fool Proof Method of Cutting Rabbets /Rebates

Journeyman's Journal - Mon, 09/11/2017 - 11:26pm

One of the topics that will be covered in the third issue of The Lost Scrolls of HANDWORK will be moulding planes.  I’ll show you step by step method of building a pair of No.4 hollow and round using the French build method of the 18th century.  It’s a lot easier building a pair of no.14 than it is the more useful smaller ones like the no.4.

The French method is about the cutting a Rebate/Rabbet so you can make the mortise and then laminate that cut off part back on.  So there will be some sawing to do and that part isn’t all that easy. For one you need to sset the saw kerf perfectly straight and then maintain a vertical angle throughout the cut.  One way you could do this is to use a kerfing plane, but since I don’t have one and really don’t need one a shoulder plane works very well.  I do plan on making a kerfing plane in the future, but for now I know I don’t need it.

The first thing you need to do is strike a line about a 32nd in from the desired depth.

 

Then with the shoulder plane or a rabbet plane if you have one lean the plane to the left side to create a kerf for the saw to rest in.  Do this a few times but not too many unless you’ve allowed plenty of over hang which I’ll go into more detail in the article.

rabbet_03

Once your satisfied that you have a deep enough kerf, place your saw in it and very lightly pull back whilst maintaining an upright vertical position.  Use the saws reflection to judge by eye if your vertical or not. I’m refraining from using the word “perfectly” vertical.  I know it’s not possible to be perfectly anything working by hand so do the best you can and try and be 90° to the surface.

Tip:  If you need aid use a small square and lean your saw onto it as you pull back.

Repeat this two or three times and start sawing.  Remember you bodies posture to ensure your keeping your saw straight. Don’t force the saw and don’t press down either. Let the weight of the saw do it’s job.  Always keep an eye on both ends, another words stop periodically sawing and check to see if you are straight.  The first 1/8″ is the most critical, if you get that right then the saw will continue to be straight throughout the rest of the cut.  Unfortunately what I just said only applies when your sawing the cheeks and not to the shoulder.  The cheek is the longest part and the material has sandwiched the saw which is serving as a helping hand to keep your cuts accurate.  You can still stuff up though and wonder in the cut so keep your wits about you at all times.

Your saw will tell you if you begin to wander off your line, that’s the beauty of hand tools.  The saw will begin to hang or bind in the cut, that’s an indication that you moved or are moving off the line.

You’re also need to clean out the dust between the teeth as you periodically stop to check on your progress, and don’t forget to blow out as much dust from the kerf as you can.  Oil or use candle wax a gazillion times to make sawing easier.  Remember the saw plate is sandwiched and there is a lot of friction going on.

As you can see in the picture below I’m 32nd off the line and straight as a ruler.  I’ll finish it with a small shoulder plane.  In fact this method is no different to when your make a knife wall for your crosscuts.

rabbet_02

rabbet_01

That is nice and straight.  If you don’t achieve that first go, don’t fret too much over it as I don’t make perfect cuts all day everyday.  We do stuff up and it’s all fixable. Remember though “practice makes permanent.” If you don’t know what I’m talking about read the second issue.

In the picture below you repeat the same for the cheeks as you did for the shoulder.

rabbet_05rabbet_06

rabbet_07rabbet_08

There will always be a need to clean things up with a shoulder or rabbet plane.  You can even use a block plane and then finish it off with a chisel.

The point is though that you’ve cut down on a lot of cleaning and rabbeting woes using this method.  It’s fool proof in my view, but that’s my view and probably you have a different opinion or better yet, a much better method of executing this operation.

In case you do don’t hesitate to offer your suggestment. I’m always open to learn a better way of doing things or just learning something new.

 


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