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Pint-Size Pickup – Holiday Project Post

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 11/28/2017 - 3:00am

Editor’s note: With the holidays upon us, I’m looking through vintage issues of the magazines and books we own for fun handmade gifts – things that you can build in not too much shop time, but that will help to create a lifetime of memories for the recipients. I’ll post (at least) two every week between now and the new year. Not all of them will be for kids – […]

The post Pint-Size Pickup – Holiday Project Post appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Drawbore pins completed

Mulesaw - Mon, 11/27/2017 - 7:36pm
I made the remaining handles the same ways as the first handle, and It went according to the plan.
The tangs or shafts of the drawbore pins were a bit over sized compared to the hole that I had drilled in the handles. Just a little bit, but when I first tried to mount the handle I got afraid that they might split, after all bubinga isn't a soft wood.
So I mounted the drawbore pins in the lathe and turned down the shafts to the exact diameter of the holes that I had drilled.

I still had to use a large hammer to mount the handles, but none of the handles split, and everything was really tight once seated.

For a finish I decided to use some old floor varnish that we have on board.
I simply dipped the end of a handle into the can and smeared the varnish over the rest of the surface. Once the entire handle was covered in varnish, I rubbed the handle a couple of times with an abrasive pad, and then I wiped off the excess varnish.
The idea is that it should provide a bit of protection against grime without being a super shiny and slippery surface.

Conclusion of the project:

Making a set of eccentric drawbore pins is relatively easy if you have access to a metal working lathe, or know someone who does.
The actual turning process is very simple and the material is inexpensive.

I am not sure if it was necessary to harden the drawbore pins, but I figure that it can't hurt to do it. But if you don't have the equipment for it, I am convinced that a set of homemade drawbore pins will still work perfectly.

Making tapered octagonal handles is easy, and you don't have to despair if they are not exactly square or if the taper is not identical on all sides, They are comfortable to use and a huge advantage is that they roll very poorly, so if you work on a ship there is a possibility that they might actually stay where you put them on the bench. I guess that the non rolling function also applies to shop ashore, so if you haven't got a tool tray - it could be a pattern worth considering.
Joshua Klein made an entry about the subject a couple of years back.
He was inspired by Zach Dillingers blogpost which provides a very thorough step by step guide to making those handles for a chisel.
A really fine thing about this pattern in my point of view is that it is possible to make it without a lathe.

All there is left for me now,  is to see if having some drawbore pins will make my work easier when using that joint. But I kind of expect that I will be the case.

Completed and finished drawbore pins.

Handles while drying.
Categories: Hand Tools

More Soft Wax Available Now

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Mon, 11/27/2017 - 7:05pm

wax_IMG_9805

Katy has been hard at work making soft wax, and she now has 53 more tins to ship out immediately. Tins are $12 each and are available here through her etsy.com store.

This is likely the last batch she will be able to manage before the end of the year, though she is a determined young lady. She’s pushing hard to sell wax so that she can go on a school-sponsored trip to Boston in 2018. We’ve agreed to pick up half the cost, but she is responsible for the rest of the trip’s expenses.

And (God help me) she will almost certainly become a fully licensed driver this Friday and need to purchase gasoline and “Little Tree” air fresheners for her vehicle.

— Christopher Schwarz


Filed under: Personal Favorites, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Holiday gifts

Oregon Woodworker - Mon, 11/27/2017 - 3:43pm
Every year, my wife and I try to give gifts of an Oregon product in handmade boxes.  This year we settled on a selection of teas and, wanting to get a jump on it, I made half a dozen white oak boxes last summer.


Thing of it was, though they are nice enough, I ended up not liking them for this purpose.  The main thing is that it is inconvenient to get the teabags out, but I also think they look too heavy.  I put them away and have been trying to think of another design for months.

Time is getting short, so last week I got serious.  I decided to go for a minimalist, high function design and not worry about style at all.  I also wanted it to be a design that wouldn't take a lot of time to make with hand tools and be unique.  This isn't my life's work.  As I thought about it, I realized that, because premium teabags come individually sealed, there is no need for them to be in an enclosed container.  This is what I came up with.



This isn't a design that will appeal to everyone.  It's like my active stool, designed primarily for function and not style.  Nevertheless, I like it.  It is so handy to see the tea selection and get the one you want easily.  It's light but seems to be sturdy enough.  In fact, my wife liked it enough that she asked me to make her one too, so that sealed the deal.

Construction is very straightforward.  With the stock prepared, the first thing I did was tape the three vertical pieces together so I could be sure the holes were precisely aligned. 


This also made it easy to round over the corners of the three vertical pieces in a single operation.  It's kind of hard to believe that I used six planes to make these simple pieces:


First I plowed a groove at the bottom of the outside pieces to receive the base.


Then I made a shallow rabbet so the base would fit into the groove.


This little jig I made works great for this.  Finally, just before assembly I shot all the edges and planed the faces.


I used rattlecan poly for finish.



  All in all, making 8 took about 12 hours.


Categories: Hand Tools

On the Workbench - Bearclaw Sitka Spruce/East Indian Rosewood Classical Guitar

Brokeoff Mountain Luthierie - Mon, 11/27/2017 - 3:39pm
I am not sure how long I have owned this bearclaw Sitka spruce top, I think almost 15 years and I know that I bought the back/side set of East Indian rosewood in 2000. This wood has had a decent period in which to age, theoretically, because the wood is this old this guitar should have an amazing sound!

Several years ago, I joined the top and back and inlaid a Manuel Ramirez style rosette in the top with the intention of making a small bodied classical guitar with a fairly short string length, something like a 625mm to a 635mm scale. The project got put aside, there were orders for standard, or full size classical guitars, that guitar would have to wait.

In October, I pulled out the wood so I could work on it over weekends. I planed the back, I thinned the sides and thinned entire top to 2mm. The edges got thinned to about 1.5mm. Sitka spruce is stiff stuff, I want this guitar to be responsive, and thinning the edges a little more helps be responsive.

Then came the neck. After selecting a nice piece of Spanish cedar for the neck, I had to make a decision as to the string length of the guitar. Since the top was all ready cut out for a body length of 470mm, as opposed to 480mm-495mm body length for a "standard" classical, I couldn't make it into a guitar with a 650mm.  A 630mm string is a little short for most people, I chose to make with a 640mm string length. The guitar will have plenty of loudness with that length and will be just a little easier to play.

Today, I glued all the "fan" braces and the transverse braces to the top with hot hide glue. I really like hot hide glue! And I got one brace glued onto the back! I bent the sides last week, I will attach those after I attach the top to the neck.

The goal is to have this guitar ready for bindings by the end of the week!








Categories: Luthiery

made a tool protector.....

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 11/27/2017 - 3:26pm
I knew tonight's shop time would quick as I had a few errands to run. I had noticed the need for a tool protector yesterday and I left the tool out on my workbench so I wouldn't forget it tonight. I probably could have been a bit more elaborate in making it but in the end it serves the purpose.

This tool comes from Miles's toolbox and I am not a fan of tools thrown in a box to bang around against each other. Some tools can survive a bit of toolbox rash, this one can't. I don't really have many choices regarding tool storage in his toolbox. It is kind of small and I want to stuff it with tools so I have to compromise where I can.

round leg dividers
The points on the dividers are their Achilles heel. Once they are blunted they are pretty much useless.  The goal tonight was to make something quick and functional.

done
Two holes drilled in a piece of pine scrap will do the job. I made it a little pretty by planing a chamfer on all the edges.

where it lives in the toolbox
The holder doesn't take up much room and the points are protected. I would have liked to have made something to protect the screw stem too but that would have made it too large. I am not going to make anything for the flat leg dividers. The points on them are meant to be filed if need be.

figured out the lid cutout
The problem I see with the cutout is getting a symmetrical look to the pin that will be sawn in two. On my story board I increased the pin by adding a 1/8" to each slope. The half pins will be sufficiently large and if I'm careful they will be symmetrical too. I will move the target pin down to the right one more. I want the recess in the lid to large enough to accommodate at least 2 handsaws.

too wide
I don't like this look. I thought I would use the extra width but seeing it with the saws it I changed my mind. It looks too clunky so I'll lose the extra width.

kept the length
The lid will be very generously sized for a handsaw. This is my 7 point ripper and it is the longest one I have. I like the slender look for the saw till much better than the wider one. Just had another thought on this - maybe I can keep a saw set and files in the extra space?

I'll let this sticker for another day
I got the ends sawn and squared to the new length. I'll start the dovetails tomorrow.

I'm getting used to this knife
got bit on the arse again
I assumed that the back was flat. I ran the knife over an 8k stone and this is what I got after 5-6 strokes. It is sharp but I sensed it could use a touch up. Before I do that I'll have to flatten the back but I can't do it tonight.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What does Idaho mean in the Shoshone language?
answer - gem of the mountains

Winter light

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Mon, 11/27/2017 - 2:54pm

I have 14 windows down in this small workshop, and here in New England as winter solstice is approaching, I can’t see well enough to do any significant work by 4:30 in the afternoon. By 4pm it’s getting dim, but I can sweep, sort stuff – can’t cut joinery or do carving. I  think about the joiners of the 17th century with the small (& few) windows in their buildings, how did they do any work in this light? Maybe they didn’t work much in the winter?

A notion that shows up in several 20th-century writings about 17th-century joiners is that they concentrated their joinery work in the winter; being too occupied with crops and livestock the rest of the year. That’s a quaint notion, and might even have some merit. One way to see if this is valid is to see tradesmen’s probate inventories to see if there’s work underway. There’s lots of reasons stuff might be un-finished…but it’s a start.

One bit of evidence in favor of this argument is the inventory of Edward Brown of Ipswich, Massachusetts, his inventory is from February 1659/60:

3 wheeles, finished lennen 13s6d, wheeles woolen & linnen not finisht £1-16  work done toward chaires 3s  &  15—ills 6s9d  shope tooles £3-6

John Symonds of Salem, Massachusetts also had unfinished work when he died. His inventory was presented in court 19:7:1671 – so September according to the old calendar.

will: “…to my son James Symonds…I do assigne my servant John Pease to him dureing the term of time expressed in the Indenture… Further I give all my workinge tooles belonginge to my trade to my son James Symonds…”

inv:  Joyners Tools benches and lare £5-5-6  2 Bedsteds almost finished £3  3 stools and one half of a Box 12s6d  1/2 Grindstone & windlass & a Small grindstone 5s  Timber planke & board £5-12

part of a Chest… 3 Chests 3 Boxes and a wooden Tunnil 14s  2 Tables a forum & Chayres 16s  a Vice and an old Hatchet 10s  nayles 10d  an Ax 6s10d   …a p of Jemmils…5 wedges…one half of a Crosscut Saw…  Timber in the Woods £1-2  an apprentice of 17 years old who hath 3 year and 9 moneths and 2 weekes to serve

George Cole died in 1675. His inventory is dated 30:9:1675, back when the 9th month was November…his work is not called “unfinished” but he had “work done in his shop…”

will:  “…I give to my master John Davis all my timber…”

3 saues 8s,  2 goynters & foreplaine 6s, 3 smothing plains & a draing knife 3s6d, 2 plans & 2 revolvong plains 10s,  4 round plains 5s, 3 rabet plains 4s,  3 holou plains 3s6d,  9 Cresing plains 10s6d,  6 torning tools 9s,  3 plaine irons & 3 bits 1s6d,  1 brase stok, 2 squares & gorges 1s6d,  1 brod ax & 1 fro 2s, holdfast 1s6d,  hamer 1s6d,  6 gouges 2s,  9 Chisels 5s,  2 ogers & 1 draing knife 3s,  1 bench hooks, 2 yoyet irons 1s,  a gluepot 1s6d,  for what work he has done in his shop £1-10

My notes include a date of “1676/7” for  Matthew Macomber  of Taunton, in Plymouth Colony. The double-dating falls between January and mid-March, so this is another one for the “winter” crowd.

a parsell of cooper’s tooles 9s  (illegible) hoopes not finished 10d  five hundred of cedar bolts att the swamp £1-10  hewen timber in the woods 8s9d  200 of cooper stuff in the woods 5s  more in tooles and arms £2-10

Another vote for winter is William Savell, of Braintree, Massachusetts. He died February 1, 1699/1700. Included in his inventory are:

a green carpitt & covers for chairs  01-08-00

a douzen painted chairs & a sealskin trunk  01-18-00

a wainscott chest and a box  01-01-00

a square table a wainscott chest and a bedstead  02-12-00

tooles  02-10-00

timber and weare begun  03-00-00

Well, here’s one more – what I always call “When Things Go Wrong”  – court cases sometimes shed light on period practice. John Davis was asked to make 4 chests, did so, and had them delivered. But it all ended up in court. All I can see is that Davis was both pissed and pissed off in May of 1681, and things got messy…but these depositions tell us exactly nothing about what time of year John Davis made these chests:

Writ: John Davis v. John Tolly; debt; for four wainscot chests made by his order and delivered to him in his house, dated June 23, 1681; signed by John Fuller, for the court and town of Lyn; and served by Richard Prytherch, constable of Salem, by attachment of the bed of the defendant, the summons being left with Mrs. Tauly.

Nathaniall Kirtland, aged about thirty-four years, deposed that he brought from John Davis’ shop at Lyn four chests and delivered them to John Tauly at his house in Salem. Davis told the deponent that Tauly had them to carry to Newfoundland. Sworn in court.

Bill of cost 3£

Eleaser Lenesey, aged about thirty-five years, deposed that Davis looked at a chest in Tawleay’s house and the latter told him to make two or three as good as that for 25s. each. Sworn in court before William Browne, assistant, and owned in court.

Richard Croade, aged about fifty-two years, testified that, on May 7, 1681, he heard Mr John Tally read from his book his account with John Davis, and the latter did not disown it. Sworn, May 11, 1681, before William Browne, assistant.

Samll Blyghe, aged about twenty-two years, deposed that, being in the house of Mr Wing of Boston in company with John Tawly of Salem and Joseph Cawly, he heard Tawly ask John Davis, joiner, of Lynn, to make the chests, saying he would rather Davis have his money than any one else, at the same time giving him 5s. Sworn, June 23, 1681, before William Browne, assistant.

John Longley, aged about forty-two years, testified that on May 6, 1681, he heard Davis at Taulely’s house call the latter a cheating knave, with many other absurd expressions, challenging him out of his own house to fight, threatening him. He also took hold of a wainscot chest in the room, threw it up and down the room, breaking several pieces of the front of the chest, etc. Davis was very much in drink. Elizabeth Tawley testified to the same. Sworn, June 28, 1681 before Bartho Gedney, assistant.

Joseph Calley, aged about thirty-seven years, deposed. Sworn, June 7, 1681, before John Richards, assistant.

Eleazer Lenesey, aged about thirty-five years, testified that, being in John Davis’ house at Line, after he had brought home the cloth, a whole piece of kersey, he said he had bought it of John Tawleay of Salem. Sworn before William Browne, assistant.

Mary Ivory, aged about forty-two years, deposed that she was at Taulie’s house when he received the chests. Sworn in court.

Samuell Ingols, aged about twenty-seven years, and Nathanil Willson, aged about nineteen years, deposed that the chests were worth 30s. each. Sworn in court.

John Longley, aged about forty-two years, and Thomas Eleat, aged about twent-six years, deposed concerning the assault and that neither Tawley nor his wife could have any peace while Davis was in the house. Sworn. May 9, 1681, before Bartho Gedney, assistant.”

 


How We Installed a SawStop Sliding Crosscut Fence

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 11/27/2017 - 12:50pm

I’ve wanted a SawStop sliding crosscut table ever since I tried one out at Woodworking in America 2016. Sliding crosscut tables were a basic fixture in the English shops where I worked; I took them for granted as a safe, precise means of breaking down sheet goods and cutting multiple parts to identical length. For eons, I’ve used a radial arm saw, but I recently decided it was time to […]

The post How We Installed a SawStop Sliding Crosscut Fence appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Washington Desk Day 6

The Slightly Confused Woodworker - Mon, 11/27/2017 - 9:05am

For all intents and purposes I completed the construction phase of the Washington Campaign Desk over the weekend. On paper there wasn’t much left to do. Basically I had to assemble the drawer compartment parts and attach it to the desk top. But we all know that “on paper” doesn’t mean much.

Assembling the drawer compartment wasn’t overly difficult. I pre-drilled and counter-sunk the screw holes, applied a little glue, and screwed it together. That part was relatively easy. I had one minor issue, and that was the right side drawer divider would, for some reason, not sit perpendicular to the desk top. I double and triple checked the dado fit and no matter what I did I could not get it perfectly straight. Don’t get me wrong, it is not off much, probably 1 mm or so (for all you metric people), so I decided to not let it bother me. To finish it off I used walnut plugs purchased from Rockler; they worked surprisingly well, and I’m very happy with the finished appearance.

In the meanwhile, I also pre-drilled and counter sunk the holes in the desk top to attach it to the leg assemblies (using elongated holes to allow for movement). But before I went any further I disassembled the base and spent a good 90 minutes with a hand plane and sandpaper cleaning the parts up for finish. As far as the sanding was concerned, I used the grit sequence 60/120/220/320. I did not use a random orbit sander, rather, I just used a sanding block because it seemed easier to control, though it was definitely more time consuming. Once the sanding was finished I reassembled the legs, and thankfully I marked all of the parts before I took them apart to assure that I would put them back together correctly. I used a little glue to attach the filler pieces to the leg cleats, but otherwise, the only glue used in the entire project was on the four dadoes on the drawer compartment, and the walnut plugs. (I promise once it is finished, with finish, I will photograph all of the relevant parts). With the leg assemblies ready to go, I attached them to the desktop and reattached the cross cleat, once again plugging the countersunk holes and cleaning them up.

The last part of the assembly for me was the scariest, and that was attaching the drawer unit to the desktop. Before I took everything apart I marked and predrilled holes into the desktop. To attach the drawer unit I decided to use pocket-hole screws. I like using pocket-hole screws in situations like this because of the pan head holds nicely on elongated holes. In any case, I used two combination squares (I highly recommend having two BTW) to align the drawer unit, enlisted my lovely wife to hold the drawer unit in place, and carefully screwed the drawer unit to the desk top. Speaking for myself, it’s always a bit nerve wracking lying on my back and screwing through a tabletop sight unseen. Thankfully, everything went well.

IMG_2936 (002)

The desk just before final assembly. Please note that the drawer unit was still temporarily assembled in this photo and it was still not attached to the desk top.

And speaking of pocket screws, I may attach a cleat underneath the desktop to connect the two leg assemblies, just for added strength, because as of right now they are only connected by one cross brace. After doing some research it appears that pocket screws were traditionally used for such a task, believe it or not, but as of right now I still haven’t made up my mind.

The last task of the day was milling up some poplar for making the drawers. The drawer fronts were completed last week, but I didn’t want to plane them to final size until the drawer unit was assembled. I decided to go with half-blind dovetails for the drawers, which is the logical choice. So I gang sawed all four drawer sides at once, tails first obviously. I am holding off on the drawer backs just to make sure there is no settling, or what have you, before I glue the drawers together, but that part should only take a matter of minutes.

As far as the finish is concerned, when I started the project I spent some time searching the forums to find a nice finish for Walnut and kept coming back to a product called Sam Maloof poly/oil. It seemed to get good reviews, so I ordered a can of both the poly/oil and the poly/wax. The instructions call for 3 to 4 coats of the oil and 1 to 2 coats of the wax, with an overnight dry in between each application. I likely won’t start applying the finish until this coming Friday night, when I will have time to take my time.

And on another note, I am not overly concerned with the finish when it comes down to it. I used to worry a great deal about having a perfectly smooth, plastic-like appearance. But considering that the boards used to make this desk likely came from barn walls, I am more than happy with how it looks. I was more concerned with doing the best job I could do, and I believe that I did that. The desk looks like I want it to look, and I believe that it is well constructed and it should last for quite a while. I think that George Washington would have liked it, and more importantly, my daughter loves it, and I have a feeling that she will be the one to use it most, and that is about all I could ask.

 


Categories: General Woodworking

Vintage ‘Cheesecake’ Postcards for Your Shop

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Mon, 11/27/2017 - 7:15am

Bluh_1910_brace

Years ago I visited a well-know tool collector and was completely charmed by a series of 1910 postcards that adorned his stairwell. Each postcard featured a modestly dressed woman posing with a tool. The surface of each postcard featured some low-level pun: “Its perfectly plane that I love you.” (Yes, they made a grammatical error there.)

At the bottom of each postcard was written: Copyright 1910 by F. Bluh.

The tool collector had amassed the postcards during many years of searching (before eBay existed). I thought these postcards would make a nice shop decoration and made a note to search some out.

Then life got in the way. John and I had started Lost Art Press, then I quit my job and forgot about the postcards. Earlier this year, Suzanne Ellison stumbled on one of them, she sent it to me and it reignited my desire to collect them.

I now have 13 of them (there are more, but 13 is enough for me). I’m going to frame them this week and decided that you might like to have them for your shop as well. So I scanned each at 300 dpi, did some mild repair and sharpening and have bundled them in the following .zip file that you can download.

Bluh_1910_postcards

These images are entirely in the public domain. Feel free to print them on photo paper and hang them in your shop or stairwell.

Of the postcards, I have two favorites. The oil can postcard and the handscrew postcard. The oil can postcard says: “If sympathy can’t soothe you, perhaps oil can. What.” What does “what” mean? “What” the heck? The handscrew postcard is just creepy. The woman has a half-lidded “Ringu” expression on her face and the text reads: “I like to be squeezed.”

— Christopher Schwarz, editor, Lost Art Press
Personal site: christophermschwarz.com


Filed under: Personal Favorites, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

At 16:23 Marc Spagnuolo claims he’s not the best person to talk...

Giant Cypress - Mon, 11/27/2017 - 6:58am


At 16:23 Marc Spagnuolo claims he’s not the best person to talk about Japanese saws, and then does a nice job talking about pros and cons of Japanese saws. Video game controllers are also referenced. Completely worth watching.

He also gives me a shout out. Thanks, Marc!

Hay is for Horses

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Mon, 11/27/2017 - 4:38am

Just as the Lost Art Press Horse Garage has been nearing completion, this happened.

 

Hayfield

Hay field on a gray late-autumn day

 

Whenever my sister or I said “Hey” as children, at least within earshot of our local grandma (the other grandma lived far away, in New York), we were gently nudged in a more genteel direction. “Hay is for horses,” she’d say.

But European art suggests that hay and gentility have not always been at odds.

Twice this week I heard from Suzanne Ellison (a.k.a. Lost Art Press’s saucyindexer). Unbeknownst to me, The Saucy One had turned some images of the hayrake table I made for my book on English Arts & Crafts furniture (forthcoming in June 2018 from Popular Woodworking) into a framework for a collage of women using traditional hay rakes.

Hayrake collage jpg

“I thought if a woman builds a Hayrake Table than she should probably have a collage combining her table and women using a hay rake (apparently, men scythed and women raked and fluffed),” wrote Suzanne.

Judging by their attire, most of these women are peasants (as were my grandma’s forebears), but a couple look far more refined. Please tell me that Rosina (center row, right) was not really going to rake and fluff hay in high heels and a ribboned bonnet. And what about that corseted lady in the middle of the top row?

I’m grateful to Suzanne for applying her erudition in the cause of fun. And I chuckled when I read how she addressed me in the last message: “Hey Nancy.”

***

Suzanne has provided the following Information about the images:

Top row (from the left): Jean-Francois Millet, a watercolor from a mid-Victorian** friendship book, Winslow Homer.

Middle left: Peter Breugel.  Middle right: Rosina is dated 12 May 1794 by Laurie & Whittle, London (no other info), but much earlier than the mid-Vic watercolor in the top row.

Bottom row: Camille Pissarro, Maud Mullen by John Gast, after J.G. Brown, ‘Sweet Memories’ a postcard from around 1905, Leon-Augustin Lhermitte.

Center portion: butterfly from your table, a Shaker hay rake from Hancock Shaker Village in Massachusetts, hayrake from an original table (your photo), hayrake from your table.

The frame, as you know, is constructed from your table.

**Here is a link to the mid-Victorian watercolor in the top row, it is for sale (£28.00):

http://somersetandwood.com/products/woman-with-hay-rake

 


Filed under: Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Cyber Monday: Take 10% Off Our Storewide 50% Sale!

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 11/27/2017 - 1:01am
Cyber Monday 2017

Folks, I got word from our marketing team that you can use our Cyber Monday coupon code, MONDAY10, on top of our 50% sale through Midnight Mountain Time! You’ll see all stock that is eligible for discount marked down 50% over at ShopWoodworking.com and you can add the MONDAY10 coupon code when you are checking out. Hand Tool Basics Woodworking Tools & How to Use Them By Steve Branam This […]

The post Cyber Monday: Take 10% Off Our Storewide 50% Sale! appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

The Encyclopedia of Diderot & d'Alembert Online Translation - University Of Michigan

Toolemera - Sun, 11/26/2017 - 9:18pm

University Of Michigan Library Diderot Online

UMichDiderot

For your reading pleasure, The University Of Michigan has kindly hosted an ongoing French to English translation of the famous Diderot & d'Alembert Encyclopedia of EveryThing Known To Man (sic). I recommend using the Browse By Plates until you are comfortable with the deep search functions.

UMich Diderot Browse By Plates

Categories: Hand Tools

Anarchist’s 2017 Gift Guide, Day 4: Rivierre Nails

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Sun, 11/26/2017 - 4:25pm

The wire nails at the home center stink for making furniture. Don’t even think of them as nails. They are more like greased straws than they are fasteners. Once you try Rivierre forged nails, I think you’ll develop a deep respect for the nail that has Roman DNA. Nails built this country. At one point in the 19th century, the sale of nails was a significant amount of the country’s […]

The post Anarchist’s 2017 Gift Guide, Day 4: Rivierre Nails appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

saw till et al.........

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 11/26/2017 - 3:00pm
Most of the day was spent on the saw till but in the early AM I did a few other things.  I had gone to the shop at oh dark 45 but I didn't do much beyond giving a lot things some really good goofy looks. My wife slept in late so I couldn't run the bandsaw which is want I wanted to use. I put the time to good use surfing the net and buying a few xmas presents. This is the first year in a long time I am not done with my xmas shopping by thanksgiving. I'll probably be done by the 1st so Santa can cross me off the list then.

this I could do at oh dark 45
I steel wooled the both of them and put on the final coat of shellac.

2nd oh dark 45 thing
I was going to oil the iron and chipbreaker when I noticed that I didn't finish the flattening of the back. All I did was the 80 grit runway but I like going up to 8k and putting a shine on the back.

helper
I placed this piece of 6mm plywood at the end of the iron and I applied pressure to it with my palm. It speeds up the flattening by a factor of 100 over using my fingers. The best advantage of using was it saves my fingers. If I had done all the flattening with my fingers they would singing arias now and I would be way laid.

better shine and I can see the bottle reflection in it
something I've not seen before
This design makes more sense then the studs and barrel nuts. I had to double triple check the #3 these came off to make sure it was a Stanley and it was. I'm pretty sure it is a WWII plane based on the thickness of the plane's walls. So maybe this is a war time substitution because of the prohibitions on brass.

the japanning is almost 100%
I got this #3 from Ken Hatch for my grandson's toolbox but I already had given him one. With the pre-blessing from Ken, I'll rehab this and pass it on to someone who needs it. A little shining of the brass adjuster knob and the plane sole is all that is needed on this. It shouldn't take me more than an hour or two at most.

wife finally got up
I got all the slots sawn again and then I sawed off the part to the right of the oak strip.

slipped on without a whimper
I had a difficult time pulling this handle off and I was expecting the same fun putting it back on. No problems putting it on at all. Slipped on like it was greased and no problems moving it around to line up the holes.

shellac filled in the holes
The screws won't fit in the holes.

punched out the shellac build up
still won't fit
I was trying not to hammer this Cro Magnon style. I was barely doing love taps on it because it shouldn't need to be hammered home.

next punch size up is too large
found my problem
I was delusional because I thought all saw nuts were the same thread size. Turns out it isn't so. I was also operating under the assumption that I had kept the saw nuts for each saw together and separate. It seems that I didn't do that neither.

I will have to buy some saw nuts and a drill bit for drilling the holes for them. I was able to screw the handles on but 2 of them are spinning. The handle isn't loose but it is only a matter of use and time before it will be.

I think this will work well and I have to make the till to fit it
two squares mark the max length
almost 29" for the ID
Add a 1 1/2" for the OD and a few for wiggle room and I'm getting close to the 3 foot mark.

I'll have to make a new intermediate holder - the slots are offset
don't have to make a new one
I sawed the width wrong and when I tried to line it up on the edge it threw it off from the other two.

everything is lined up straight now
I glued the holders in place with hide glue. I didn't want to do that but I decided to do it for strength. After the glue had been clamped for a few hours I put some screws in them.

time to put the keepers on
1/4" set up bars
I used the bars to set the reveal around the lid. Once I was happy with that look, I penciled the four corners on the lid.

don't need much and I penciled these in lightly
1/2" set up bars
The bars are 2. 0457112394572383 frog hairs thicker than the stock. I laid the 1/2" bars on the pencil lines and marked them with pencil.

1/2" lines are just inside of the ends
keepers
The keepers I shot to be so that the pencil lines were just visible at the ends and the outside.

nailed partly
I still have to remove this to erase my pencil lines and sand the inside. The keepers are secured good enough to check the fit.

it fits this way
The fit is loose both side to side and top to bottom which is what I was shooting for. The side to side shouldn't change but the top to bottom might even though this is only 1/2" thick and less than 6" wide.

fits the same way flipped 180
For my use I wouldn't put a knob or handle on this. But this is going to be a xmas present so I think I should put one on it. I've got time to think of something.

one spot of hide glue in the middle
small bit of twist
I have never liked sanding things like this to level the feet. I have yet to be lucky and not rip the sandpaper or have it last without ripping before I was done. Planing out the twist is easy and there is nothing to rip.

making tiny dovetails
I tried to make a small tray to fit inside the box. It is deep and this will help divide up the space. My tails look like crap and I would bet a lung that they would be gappy enough to drive a truck through.

sawed tails with the LV saw and the LN carcass saw
I think  I was able to saw this with those two saws because it is maple.

the zona saw still gives me fits -  my tails are proof
First problem with the zona was seeing the cut line. Second problem was trying to keep it going straight. Third problem was the plate would buckle on me. The problem 4 to 10 were I couldn't see the cut line.

I had tried switching the plate around so that it cut on the push stroke but that made the problems worse. Especially the buckling. The zona did not like sawing on the push stroke. I set this aside for now but I think I'll try it again but I'll use the LV dovetail saw.

prepping the stock for the saw till
That mark is the maximum height I need on the inside. I did the same to get the length.

made a change in plans
I am going to use most of the width of the stock. The lid can be used to stow saws too that may be acquired in the future. I will saw off that red knot because it will be nothing but trouble.

a tiny bit left - but it's solid
raised a sweat
It's been a little while since I ripped this much wood.

flattening the stock
There is a small bow and cup in this. All I plan on doing it removing that and making one face flat and straight. This board isn't rocking at the corners so I know it isn't twisted.

board #2 had less bow and cup
I didn't think this would have any twist but it did. After the planing the rocking corners twice and still not removing it, I checked it with the sticks until it was gone.

ends squared and shot to length
ditto with the long sides
dovetail story pole
I made this for two reasons. The first was to see where the tails/pins are in relation to the groove for the top and bottom panels. I can bury the groove in one of them and I'll have to chop the groove in the other.

The other reason is to see where the lid cut off will fall on the line of tails and pins. I like the number and spacing on the dovetails on this board but I don't like where the lid cutoff is.

made a second dovetail story board
I increased the the spacing and decreased the number of tails/pins. The cutoff line isn't carved in stone other than I want it above the center of the height. I'm not overly thrilled with story board #2 but between the two I'll come up with something.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was Red's inmate number in the Shawshank Redemption Movie?
answer - 30265

An Interesting Dulcimer Repair

Doug Berch - Sun, 11/26/2017 - 1:49pm

A problematic dulcimer back.

A friend owns a dulcimer she loves and it developed multiple cracks in the back and soundboard. The cracks in the soundboard were typical cracks one sees in a quarter sawn spruce soundboard and were easy to fix.

The back was another story.

The back is made of poplar. Poplar is one of the traditional woods for dulcimers and works well but on this dulcimer the poplar is close to paper-thin and flat sawn.

Wood that is flat sawn is much less stable than wood that is quarter sawn. The wood was so thin that usual methods of crack repair were difficult if not impossible. The back of the dulcimer had no bracing and little structural integrity.

My first thought was to simply make a new back but my friend loves the sound of this dulcimer and replacing the back would most likely cause it to change.

Instead of replacing it I decided to fix the cracks as best I could and add a Galax back. The Galax back will provide structural integrity and should the repaired cracks in the original back open they will not cause a problem.

Repairing a cracked dulcimer back.

Another part of this adventure was fitting the Galax back to a dulcimer with sides that were not always square, perpendicular, and flat. I don’t know if the dulcimer was made this way or if these problems developed over time. Either way, fitting and trimming the support blocks along the edges of the back was not easy. I decided to choose functionality over beauty and just get the job done.

When fitting a new back or Galax back to an existing dulcimer one has to keep in mind that forcing the dulcimer to conform to a flat back might flatten intentional or unintentional differences in height along the sides and result in distorting the soundboard and fretboard.  To avoid this I fit the Galax back to the dulcimer and let it follow any irregularities so the existing geometry of the dulcimer remains unchanged.

Galax back added to a dulcimer.

I generally only do repairs on my own work and refer requests for repairs on other maker’s dulcimers to the maker or repair shops I know and trust. This was for a dear friend so I was happy to do it.

Doug Berch - Dulcimer Maker And Musician

Categories: Luthiery

The Impractical Guitar Maker - Wedged Joints

Brokeoff Mountain Luthierie - Sun, 11/26/2017 - 12:51pm
Examination of the interior revealed the junction block used to connect the neck and body. The sides are slotted into the end block and held in place by wedges.

From A Detailed Description of an Early 17th Century Italian Five-Course Guitar

Tom and Mary Anne Evans, Guitars - From Renaissance to Rock, 1977

In making the body and neck of a classical guitar, the most complicated joint used is a scarf joint. The scarf joint is used to connect the headstock to the neck shaft, some makers use a more complicated "V" joint to connect the headstock to the shaft. Miter and butt joints are used on the bindings, but this is purely for decoration, bindings are used to cover simple joints. The guitar sides usually fit into slots cut into the heel block, I like to cut a wider, angled slot and use wedges to hold the sides in the heel block.

Anyone who has made a classical guitar with the help of the book, Making Master Guitars, by Roy Courtnall, should recognize this wedged joint. In Making Master Guitars the joint is touted by the master guitar maker, Jose Romanillos, he used this joint and a variation of it until he retired from making guitars.

I began using this joint early on in my journey in guitar making, it made sense. It is a strong joint and unlike cutting a narrow slot, it allows me some wiggle room in fixing how the side fits against the heel and the wedge against the side.



The wider slot allows me to clean up the saw cut that will be seen once the side is attached with a sanding stick, there is no need to see a gap between the side and the heel!




Once the wedge is cut, I put it in the slot with a "dummy"piece of wood that is the same thickness as the side. I then start to cut a kerf where the wedge and the heel block meet...


and continue to "saw kerf joint" the surfaces until...


I have a nice looking joint!

When the side is ready to be attached to the guitar top, all I need to do is to trim the wedge a little short so when I hammer it in the endow the wedge will be just shy of seating against the top. There is no need to glue the wedge in, it is a strong joint and the wedge won't go anywhere. If the wedge is glued then the joint is not reversible, a consideration if the guitar needs to be repaired!







Categories: Luthiery

8" dovetail saw Karelian Masur Birch - 200mm Zinkensäge Karelische Maserbike

Two Lawyers Toolworks - Sun, 11/26/2017 - 7:42am
Dovatail saw karelian masur birch 8" long shy 1 3/4 deep 17 TPI Zinkensäge Karelische Maserbirke 200mm lang 43mm tief 17 tpi Pedderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12692353908068506678noreply@blogger.com0
Categories: Hand Tools

carrying saw till started.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 11/26/2017 - 1:44am
The cart may have been put in front of the horse but it actually helped this time. I got some stock to make the saw till and instead of making the box first, I decided to mock up the holders for the saws. Doing the mock up helped me to discard my original rough till measurements. I would have been a very unhappy ex sailor boy if I had made the till first. The holders are going to require a bigger till to hold them in it. I'm glad I thought of doing a mock up first.

dry fit of the base before the till starts
The corners look good. They are even on the top and one is off on the bottom. I'll plane the bottom after the glue has set. I can't see the outside face but the tops and inside all look consistent.

the box fits
I'll take this because I thought I was going to glue the base around the box. This end here has a slight gap. I can clamp it out but it bows this and I don't want it pulling the miters apart.

turned the box 180
Another surprise with the box fitting in the base both ways. The gap is gone on the right and now it's on the left which means it's the box and not the base. I'll live with it as is and put it with the gap on the right.

sized the joints
While the glue was soaking in I went upstairs and balanced my check book.

box and base glued up
It's a wee bit on the warm side today and the furnace hasn't kicked in yet. It's supposed to get cold tonight so I will leave this be until tomorrow.

stock for the saw till
I still think I can get one side and one end out one board. That leaves the last one for the lid or an  extra if I use the 6mm plywood for the top and bottom.

something is wrong
I have both of the bench saws handles together. I want them to be on opposite ends. That way I don't need as much width and I can better take the saws in and out.

I made all the kerfs for the saws on the bandsaw with a fence. The only one that would not fit in it was the crosscut panel saw. I had to widen the kerf for that saw.

the holder mock up done
The width of the holders is about 7 1/2" and it was because of the unknown width that I decided to make the mock first. My rough measurement I guess-ta-mated was 5" for the saws with a couple more for the holders. I could make this thinner but I would rather have more room between the saws then less.

I've got to work on lowering the height
I can make a notch for the spines in the holder and that will drop it down some.

the dovetail saw is way too high
dropped over an inch
I can drop this one some more
the final layout
I need to get the handles for the panel saws done and back on before I do anything else. I need them to get a final height and length. The length is going to drive how far apart the two outside holders will be.

I was going to make another set of holders out of 3/4" plywood but I am going to use these. I plan on cutting some off the bottom to further drop the height more. Before I do that I have to beef up the holders because of the grain direction.

happy with this height
I can lower this another 1/2" to 3/4"
plan the same drop with this one too
back holder
One of the slots broke off and the other 3 are ready to do too. This wood is what is left from my old kitchen cabinets. I am going to glue a piece of 1/4" plywood to this to stiffen it and keep it from breaking off.

the last slot is cracked too
I'll glue the plywood on and cut the slots after it has set
I glued a piece of oak at the bottom where I plan on shortening the height. The slot cut will extend about a 1/4" into the oak. The front holder with a lot of kerfs will get oak glued on both sides and the back holder I think will be ok with one along with the plywood.

the base isn't long enough in the length
I cut a piece of 1/4" plywood oversized and I'll get the final length tomorrow. I will screw the base to the bottom of the holders. I don't want to glue it in case I change the number of saws or I have to fix it.

one coat of clear shellac
the walnut handle
This finish is coming off with hardly any effort at all. The scrapings are turning to dust and nothing is being stubborn.

ready for finish
Scraped and sanded with 80, 120, and 220.

switched
I was going to finish both handles with lacquer but I switched to shellac. The lacquer was stinking up the whole shop. I had to open a window and use a fan to remove the odor. Shellac doesn't stink or at least not like the lacquer does.

keepers are ready to fit
I found a chewed up and gnarly looking piece of walnut to use as the keepers. A few minutes with a plane and they were done. There isn't any need for high precision on these two so I didn't go nutso on them. I'll try and get to this tomorrow.

fingers crossed - looks like someone flattened the back already
looked promising
I have a high spot in the middle to remove.

15 minutes later
I'm getting there and I just have to get the upper left corner. There is some pitting there and I'm hoping that it'll lap out as I finish flattening the back.

road testing my my new strops
The new strop is 12" long and the old ones are 8" long. The longer length helped with me not digging in on the return when stropping. I stropped a chisel, an iron, and a chipbreaker on this new strop and I like it.

needs a clamping strip
My old short strops have a rabbet on both long edges and that allowed me to set them in the vise level. This strip will be held in the vise and the wings will rest on top to the vise jaws, level and ready to use.

exaggerated
The strop was in the vise at a slight angle. I could tell because one corner of the plane iron was digging in more on one side than the other.

Called it a day here and shut the lights out. But before I left, I put another of shellac on the handles.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the official 'bug' of the state of Delaware?
answer - the ladybug

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