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Scything in North Cumbria

Steve Tomlin Crafts - Fri, 07/21/2017 - 4:40am
Scything, sunshine, smallholder. Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

Simple Lathe Tool Cart

360 WoodWorking - Fri, 07/21/2017 - 4:10am
Simple Lathe Tool Cart

I’m at the beginning of a project that has turning work out the wazoo. Eight legs that are turned, with stop-flutes, too. My lathe and its tools were my Dad’s at one time. His lathe tools hung on a wall behind the lathe – he had easy access. Where the lathe is in my shop, there are no accessible walls close by. In fact for the past five or more years, the lathe tools sat on the floor in the wall mount from my Dad’s shop.

Continue reading Simple Lathe Tool Cart at 360 WoodWorking.

Tool Giveaway: OmniSquare

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 07/21/2017 - 3:00am

In the August 2017 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine we reviewed the OmniSquare Multi-function Layout Tool, a clever tool made from lightweight aluminum. It functions as a try square, miter square, bevel square, T-square, combination square and (in a pinch) a compass. You can read our full review here, and visit the company’s website here. Well, we have one, lightly used OmniSquare to give away (pictured above, and in the magazine!). […]

The post Tool Giveaway: OmniSquare appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

back dry fitted.......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 07/21/2017 - 2:48am
The weather lately has been a bit on the hot and sticky side and it tends to saps my desire to work. Without AC it isn't that comfortable but strangely, I didn't sweat up a river tonight. It is certainly hot and humid enough where blinking can cause the sweat faucet to open full. Maybe I'm going slow enough to be under the sweat threshold.

On the flip side, the temps on my porch the past few days have been in the middle 90's F (35C) and did that help the shelves to dry? Nay, nay moose breath, they are still clammy/tacky. This is un-f'ing'-believable. It has gotten less clammy/tacky but still has not gotten to that dry feeling to the touch. It has one more day to roast out there and then I'm covering it with poly.

the ugly back
This is a piece of underlayment leftover from my kitchen floor. This side will be up against the wall and of course that depends upon me not having my head in my ass when I put it in the cabinet during glue up. The other side is relatively clean and has two manufacturers stickers that I will have to remove. This piece is pretty tight top to bottom and there isn't a lot of extra meat. The side to side I have more than 6" extra to play with.

groove done on the tablesaw
I don't have a plow plane iron that even closely matches the thickness of the plywood. I made the groove on the tablesaw with two passes.

I could have done it with the plow plane but that would mean moving the fence and trying to widen an existing groove. I had tried doing something that many, many moons ago and that was dismal failure. When I got done it looked like I had hacked at the groove with a dull butter knife. I don't ever recall reading or seeing a you tube where someone tried to make and existing groove a wee bit wider in this manner.

failed the bounce test
This fell off the bench and lost. Mr Concrete Floor leads the bounce test score by a very comfortable margin. It was a clean break and I'll glue it back together. I was planning on gluing the carcass up tonight but that isn't happening sports fans.

back fitted
No problems putting the broken piece in place to check this.

carcass isn't square
I was hoping that the back would square the carcass but it didn't. I know the back is square because I checked it with my big red square.

now it's square
I've been paying attention to where I place the clamps. In order to bring this into square, the clamp goes on the long leg and you slowly pull the carcass into square.

got the cabinet square
something is wrong
I got the cabinet square on what will be the front, but I also introduced some twist in doing that.  I will have to think about this one for a bit before I attempt a glue up.

dropped it again
Same board that I lost the first bounce test on, was dropped again and I lost this bounce test too. At least I'll be able to glue this at the same time as the other piece.

added some helpers
Where I had a clamp bearing on the groove for the back, I put in a piece of the same plywood. This way I won't crush or break the groove. Hopefully, that won't happen now.

Turned the lights out and headed upstairs to the AC.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
This event was held for the first time at Soldiers Field in Chicago  on July 20, 1968. What was it?
answer - the first Special Olympics

Resurrection

A Woodworker's Musings - Thu, 07/20/2017 - 7:25pm

I met an old friend on the street the other day, a friend I hadn’t seen for a year or so.  He walked up to me, smiled broadly and said, “Good Lord, I was sure you had died.  You haven’t posted anything since February!”…  What an “eye opener!”

Truth be told, the past few months have been full of travel, visits from family and, honestly, I just haven’t had anything to say that I thought was worth saying.  That’s not to say that there hasn’t been anything going on in the workshop.  Although I have to admit that my level of productivity has been seriously diminished. But, maybe now is a good time to “get back in the game.”

Lester (my partner in the crime of woodworking) and I have managed to finish a couple of projects during this “black-out period.”   We completed a small tavern table (based on one in the Metropolitan Museum of Art) that Les had started a number of years ago.  While dry fit, it served to provide a small amount of temporary storage for a number of years.    He opted for a oval top made from a single piece of curly maple that he’s had in storage since the last Dempsey fight.  He decided that heavy distressing was just the ticket.  So, Les, our friend Scott Midegeley and I attacked the thing with lanyards full of keys, sticks, rods, stones.  It was scorched earth!

After the beating, the top was dyed with amber water based dye, then glazed with “black oil”, a combination of asphaltum, turpentine and BLO.  The top was then finished with several coats of Waterlox.  The cherry base was stained, coated with Waterlox then painted with a satin black alkyd enamel.  Then the paint was “wet wiped” to create a heavily distressed look in the areas that would have been subjected to the most wear.  Imagine the Founding Fathers sitting around one of these little beauties, drinking warm ale and trying to determine the best way to run a Republic.

The turned legs were terminated with simple Spanish feet of the “fluted” variety.  Ends of the “ogeed” aprons were finished up with a decorative cockbead.

I became so enthused that I ran right home and started my own Tavern Table.  There are a few differences, but the design is essentially the same.  The carriage is of walnut, the top is elliptical, the finish is the same with less distressing and I opted for a little longer, more feminine Spanish Feet (probably a subliminal influence of having just watched a Penelope Cruz movie).  The aprons are relieved to create a lighter look and the top has a simple torus edge and I nixed the cockbead (for no good reason other than the fact that I wanted to get the thing finished).

Here’s a look at the table through part of the construction process:

And, if you don’t believe in the possibility of resurrection, just stand near the parking lot gate at “quitting time.”    “Gramps”

 

 

 


Categories: Hand Tools

Bedstead panels

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Thu, 07/20/2017 - 2:46pm

The bedstead’s headboard is moving along. Once I had the first free-hand panel carved, it was easy to carve the 2nd one. After marking out the margins and a vertical centerline, I used a compass to take a few markers – here noting where the S-scrolls at the bottom corner hit the vertical margins.

Then I chalked in a rough outline for that shape. This panel, like many from this grouping (and all 4 in this headboard) have a stylized urn at the bottom center of the panel. That shape I marked out with a square & awl to locate its top & bottom, and marked its width from the vertical centerline. The S-scrolls then fit between the urn and the bottom corner/margin.

My camera-boy (Daniel, 11 yrs old) came by & used the Ipad to shoot some Instragram stuff…here’s some leftovers. Carving this bottom corner S-scroll, in two snippets. (home-video caliber – no edits, shaky, etc – but worth a look.)

 

 

 

there are related S-scrolls across the top section of the panel. These reach from the corners to the vertical centerline. These top and bottom sections are the first things I block in with the V-tool.

 

then comes the stuff between. I sketch the vein in the larger leaf, it reaches from the centerline to the margin.

 

 

Then I carry on, doing first one side, then the other.


The whole thing is about filling in the spaces, and in this case, blending one shape to lay against another.


Here’s the V-tool outline almost all done.

Next I take a #5 gouge, in this case about 1″ wide or slightly less, and chop out between the V-tool lines, to begin removing the background.

 

Some beveling, some shaping. With a narrow #5.


People ask about the background punch. Mild steel, filed to leave these pyramidal points.

accents with a few #7 gouges.

And a narrow chisel. Bevel towards the waste when chopping like this.

Then pare down to the chopped mark.

Trim to length. 

Bevel the back, first with a hatchet.

Then 2 planes. Feather down to nothing.

Here’s the headboard thus far. There will be plain panels below this, and a carved crest rail above. And of course, two vertical posts.

Closer.

 

 


Summertime!

Brese Plane - Thu, 07/20/2017 - 1:04pm



For a bit over a week 4 of our grandchildren and their moms have been visiting. It's been a busy time that has passed very quickly. Too quickly. Soon they will be returning to Brooklyn and London and the house will be quiet again.

We made bird houses with the kids. It was great fun and I highly suggest this project for kids. The ages range from 3 to 9 and it was fun for all.


Some of the bird houses just look happy,





and more smiley faces


The crafters and artist,




And for the grand Finale,



Yes the house will soon be quiet again..........too quiet.

Ron




Categories: Hand Tools

Two- and Three-Panelled Doors

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Thu, 07/20/2017 - 11:25am
Fig-60.jpg

Fig. 60 – Two-Panelled Door

This is an excerpt from “Doormaking and Window-Making” by Anonymous. This book was discovered for us by joiner Richard Arnold. 

The door shown in Fig. 60 is very common as a front door in some parts of the country, although it has not much to recommend it, the long panels being very weak, and also the stiles, owing to there being no middle rail to strengthen them.

The making is very simple, being the same as an ordinary panel door, minus the middle rail; hence no detailed instructions on setting out are required here. They only mystifying point is the circular head panels, but those are only formed by the bolection moulding, the top rail being framed in square, as in Fig. 61, and the circular corner pieces glued and bradded in on the outside of the door only.

Fig-61.jpg

Fig. 61 – Showing Corner-Pieces in Panels

The circular moulding is formed in a lathe, as Fig. 62, and cut through to form two heads. It should be sawn through across the grain, as shown in the drawing, so that the end grain on the straight moulding will butt against the end grain on the circular moulding. In doing this, the shrinkage will be the same on each piece, and the intersection will not be affected. Of course, it must be understood that, if a good job is to be made, the turning must be accurately done, or the two will not intersect, and no amount of cleaning off will put matters right.

Fig-62-1

Fig. 62 – Circular Moulding for Tops of Panels

In making doors which have to be bolection moulded, some care is needed in gauging for the mortises, to ensure the moulding is bedding properly. If the moulding is rebated to a depth of half an inch, the gauge should be set to nine-sixteenths; the moulding will then bed tightly on the framing without any trouble. If gauged on too far, when the moulding is nailed in there is a risk of splitting at the outside edge; and if not gauged enough, the moulding will not fit closely to the framing. The medium should be aimed at, as in Fig. 63, where the moulding beds closely at A and B, and is slightly away from the panel at C.

Fig-63

Fig. 63 – Method of Fixing Bolection Moulding

In fitting bolection moulding, the mites should be shot as it is difficult to obtain a clean joint direct from the saw; the correct length of each piece should be taken, and the moulding cut to the marks; there will be no difficulty in making them fit accurately. The rebates are usually made slightly edge-shaped, as shown in Fig. 63, which forces the mitres up tightly as the moulding are driven in. In nailing each piece in, the nails should be driven as at D (Fig. 63); this will draw the points A and B down tightly, and at the same time allow the panels to shrink, without the danger of splitting them. This method of fixing does not, however, find favor in some parts, the favorite method being to screw the moulding from the inside of the panels, as at E. This certainly holds them firmly to the panels; but unless the latter are very dry, they are apt to split, owing to the outside edges being held by the screws. Taken on the whole, the writer prefers the former method of fixing and it must be understood that both methods should on no account be used together.

Fig-64

Fig. 64 – Bolection Moulded Three-Panel Door (with Section)

In Fig. 64 we have a door that will be a familiar object to some readers, but a total stranger to others: it is a bolection-moulded three-panel door, the third panel being formed by leaving out the bottom munition, and throwing the space below the middle rail into one panel. This, however, is relieved by planting on a raised panel of 3/4 in. wood, bevelled off from the centre to all four sides to a thickness of 3/8 and screwed to the panel proper from the inside. A vertical section of such a door is also shown, and an enlarged section of the bottom part appears in Fig. 65. In some cases a narrow raised panel in fixed to the upper panels in the same way as the lower, but this is not commonly done.

Fig-65

Fig. 65 – Enlarged Detail of Fig. 64

The above makes a very substantial good-looking door when finished, far better than that shown in Fig. 60; but to ensure lasting properties the bottom panels should be very dry, and the grain should cross in the two—that is, the panel proper should run longways, and the raised panel upright, or vice-versa.

Meghan Bates

 

 


Filed under: Doormaking & Window-Making
Categories: Hand Tools

Proposed Safety Rules for Table Saws – Your Comments Requested

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 07/20/2017 - 10:03am

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) is currently considering requiring “active injury mitigation” (AIM) technology on all table saws that, writes the Power Tool Institute (PTI) in a press release, would more than double the costs of these products. PTI is concerned that the price increase would make a table saw out of reach for many consumers, and contribute to job losses if makers are as a result able […]

The post Proposed Safety Rules for Table Saws – Your Comments Requested appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Chad Stanton, Not Just a Pretty Face

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 07/20/2017 - 8:30am
chad stanton

Flemish? Jacobean? Nope, Chad Stanton. To many, that name might mean making simple (but handsome) I Can Do That!  projects from home-center lumber and tools as showcased in his video series – it’s a great way to get started in the craft…but it’s often a gateway to specialty woodworking tools and lumberyard stock. Turns out that if we give him more than 30 minutes to build and a full set of woodworking […]

The post Chad Stanton, Not Just a Pretty Face appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Issue Three T.O.C. - Vic Tesolin Reviews Hoadley's "Identifying Woods in American Antiques"

The Mortise & Tenon Magazine Blog - Thu, 07/20/2017 - 4:57am

Upcoming in Issue Three…  Book Review by Vic Tesolin: “A Field Guide to Identifying Woods in American Antiques & Collectibles” by R. Bruce Hoadley

I’m a voracious reader of both fiction and non-fiction and as you can imagine, most of my non-fiction reading is about woodworking. Currently you’ll find me in the Japanese hand plane rabbit hole and I’m not sure if I can find my way back out.

Joshua asked me if I could write a review of R. Bruce Hoadley’s latest book A Field Guide to Identifying Woods in American Antiques and Collectibles when he and I were at the Fine Woodworking Live event this year. Writing this review was an absolute pleasure for me because I have read almost everything Hoadley has printed. Although, to be fair, I wasn’t sure that I was going to pick this one up…but I’m glad I did.

 

Many woodworkers don’t understand how wood works. This is an odd thing because, for me, understanding the medium I work with helps me to understand how to work with it. Things like grain direction, porosity and hardness help my come up with a plan of attack for my tools. Take hand planing as an example. White pine practically glistens when you use a low cutting angle, however, try that in hard maple and see what happens. The more you know about wood, the better woodworker you will become.

 

This book is aimed at the antique market including conservators, collectors and traders, so what did I think of it as a maker? You’ll have to read the full review to see exactly what I thought.

 

- Vic Tesolin, The Minimalist Woodworker

 

Stay tuned for tomorrow’s announcement of the next article upcoming in M&T Issue Three...

 

Categories: Hand Tools

The Best Woods for Upholstery – 360w360 E.241

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 07/20/2017 - 4:10am
The Best Woods for Upholstery – 360w360 E.241

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking, Mike Mascelli is back to talk more on upholstery. Along with the longevity of good-quality furniture and upholstery work, Mike talks about the best woods to use for frames that are to be upholstered – it’s all about lumber that allows and holds tacks and staples. But you’re not giving up any structural integrity.

Join 360 Woodworking every Thursday for a lively discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more).

Continue reading The Best Woods for Upholstery – 360w360 E.241 at 360 WoodWorking.

Which Bench Plane?

Paul Sellers - Thu, 07/20/2017 - 3:59am

I use a variety of hand planes, bench planes actually, in the day to day of making, writing and filming because on the one hand I want to use what people can get hold of and afford at a reasonable price and I tend feel a little nauseous when snobbism displaces proven technologies that worked …

Read the full post Which Bench Plane? on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Low Stakes Coffee Table

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 07/20/2017 - 3:00am

When I lived in Maine, I had a wide array of projects and furniture that I wanted to build for our house. When it became clear, however, that we were going to move down here to Covington, Ky., I put the designs and wood aside, not wanting to build a bunch of furniture only to pack it into a van and move it – lumber is easy to move, furniture […]

The post Low Stakes Coffee Table appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

carcass fitted.......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 07/20/2017 - 1:22am
I'm moving right along with the finishing cabinet. I got the carcass dry fitted and I'm rethinking the interior. I'm not liking the off center divider that much anymore. I do want to maximize my storage because I am an expert at stuffing 10 lbs of crap into a 5 lb test brown paper bag. Ask any submarine sailor to help rearrange things and you'll be amazed at the space we can save. Of course this all subject to change on the fly too.

fitting my second tongue
This edge is square across the face and I checked it from both edges.

slightly out of square
 It goes out of square down from the face over to the right at the bottom. It isn't much, but it isn't 90°.

some crud in the 90 to clean out
flat and straight
I checked this to make sure I was flat. The first one I fitted had a hump in it. I ran a few strokes down the length with a tenon plane before I checked it for flat.

square to the face
I'll square the tongue up with the hand router.

marked and sawed it on the pencil line
Sawing this off will give me less to lean up with the router. I trimmed a bit and checked the fit and I kept at it that way until I had a snug fit.

the last one to be fitted
This is the one I had to saw a bit deeper on this end as I was splitting out the tongue. I didn't get as clean of a split as I did on the other 3. I had to clean this up so I could mark for the length of the the tongue. I got most of it cleaned out when I ran the tenon plane down the cheek.

checking for square
The first tongue I fitted is the snuggest fitting one I did. Of the remaining 3, one is a little loose, and the other two are snug. All four will hold except for the one loose one. There gravity eventually wins but it is self supporting for a second or two.

off by a least a quarter of inch this way
cocked the clamps on one end
This was the second way I tried this. My first time in the opposite direction just made it worse.

it fits both ways so I'm square
This is something I am not good at looking at and figuring out which way to move the clamps. It is usually a bit of trial and error for me until I get it.

thinking of cutting this brush handle down
 I lost more interior width than I thought I had.


tighter squeeze for the spray cans side by side
There is not a lot of room to get my fat fingers in here to grab a can. This is where I started to rethink the off center divider.

this yields a bit more room
If I cut the other two brushes down to the length of this one, this is doable. The monkey wrench in the gears comes from the spray cans being twice the height of the quart cans of finish.

this was thought
How about I put the spray cans horizontal like I was storing wine bottles? Maybe I could even put a 'wine rack' in this space and skip the divider.

blowout
I am aware of this and I think about it as I plane and approach an end. For some reason it doesn't always register in the brain bucket. I'll tape this to the side so I don't lose it and I can glue it back on later.


this is a good sized cabinet for the shop and my finishing supplies
I think the center divider is history. Instead of the center divider I am going to install a horizontal shelf/drawer space at the bottom. I'll be able to put in two drawers and one will be large enough to hold my shellac brushes without cutting them down.

this is where it is going
I won't clear out this spot until the cabinet is done. The shelf is screwed to a board that is screwed to the foundation. I'll reuse that and put a french cleat on it. The other important point is the top of the cabinet is wider and longer than this shelf. The radio and everything else on the shelf will live on the cabinet top.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What does the latin phrase ex post mean?
answer -  from behind, after the fact

I don’t have much background information on this video,...

Giant Cypress - Thu, 07/20/2017 - 1:08am


I don’t have much background information on this video, but it appears to be a German film showing how a chipbreaker works while planing a piece of wood in a manner similar to the Kawai-Kato chipbreaker video. Many of the factors demonstrated are still the same: the need to have the chipbreaker close to the edge of the blade, the effect of the angle of the leading edge of the chipbreaker, and what happens if the chipbreaker is set too close. You can also see the effect of the mouth, and my favorite bit, what happens when the chipbreaker isn’t set well on the blade.

Moulding Plane No.10 Round complete!

Journeyman's Journal - Wed, 07/19/2017 - 10:17pm

I shaped the iron, heat treated, sharpened it to a razor finish and did it within two hours. Considering how long it took me the first time, experience and speed has finally kicked in.

I’m very pleased with the outcome, she’s planing and ejecting shavings like a dream.   The mouth opening is 1/32″ which I’ve returned back to my original idea and not intentionally but just by accident. Still it allowed thick enough shavings to go through without clogging. All that’s left to do now is to put a couple of coats of finish and use that as the mother plane for the hollow.

I found a neat little trick to shaping the iron, initially I shaped the iron on a grinder keeping it at 90° but the bevel I did with a file, just like our ancestors did and with all their plane irons to re establish their bevel .  If I used the grinder to establish a 25° bevel and refine the shape I would’ve taken too much from one side or the other.  With a file I took small amounts resulting in a more controlled shaping process.  The grinder hogs off a lot of material throwing you off everytime until you get it right, but that is time consuming.  The file seems like a slower process but it actually took me 20 -30 mins probably less to do it, that’s a saving of 2 hours work.

I could of given up considering how long I’ve been at it but I didn’t.  Hard work, persistence, obsession is the key to success, nothing comes easy.

IMG_0245IMG_0246IMG_0247IMG_0249


Categories: Hand Tools

Now Available: ‘Roubo Workbench: By Hand & Power’

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Wed, 07/19/2017 - 8:04pm

chriss-bench-12

You can now purchase our latest video “Roubo Workbench: By Hand & Power” for $35 through our online store. The 4:19-long video can be streamed or downloaded and played on nearly any device – we offer the video without any DRM or copy protection.

The video is an in-depth look at how to build a massive French workbench using giant slabs of wood, but without enormous machinery. Will Myers and I walk you through all the construction steps and show a variety of ways to perform every operation, from a pure hand-tool method to one that uses the latest hand-held power tools.

Along the way, Will and I debate the fine points of construction – we don’t always agree – and discuss the pros and cons of everything from wide benchtops to wet timbers to tail vises.

Oh, and I might add that the video is beautiful. Shot using a three-camera setup at F+W Media and directed by our own John Hoffman, this presentation is the best we could do without hiring Orson Wells.

In addition to the 4:19-long video, we also include a three-page pdf containing a construction drawing of the bench, a cutting list and a list of the suppliers mentioned in the video. You’ll also receive a sheet of timecodes that will allow you to skip easily to individual chapters.

This video is the start of a series of instructional videos from Lost Art Press and directed by John. Next up: Peter Galbert on turning.

— Christopher Schwarz


Filed under: Workbenches
Categories: Hand Tools

Photobucket Ruined my Blog

MVFlaim Furnituremaker - Wed, 07/19/2017 - 5:10pm

For several years, I’ve been storing my photos on Photobucket.com. I never paid for it so I was willing to deal with the endless pop up ads every time I wanted to upload some of my photos for my blog. All was well until a few days ago when I noticed that the photos in my blog postings were being blocked. Apparently, Photobucket changed their user agreement and they will no longer support third-party hosting of any of the photos in their site. The only way to get the photos back is to pay a monthly subscription fee. Fat chance of that.

I was using Flickr several years before I switched to Photobucket because I ran out of free space. So, the very early blog posts should be fine for now until Flickr does the same thing. I liked Photobucket because even though I had 300 pictures stored on their site, I was only using 3% of free space on my account. Now I’m in a pickle. I assume I could download all my Photobucket photos onto a hard drive and import them back into blog posts, but that is a lot of work.

I noticed a few months ago that WordPress wouldn’t allow me to cut and paste directly from Photobucket onto my blog page. I had to start loading the image onto WordPress first. Now I know why, which is why my most recent posts are fine. The last working post is from four months ago when I smashed my finger. Every post after that until three years ago is blocked.

Thank God I don’t do this for a living! What a nightmare this must be for professional bloggers who blog two or three times a day. I read on Reddit about people who are in dire straits because of this.

For now, I’m going to start using Imgur.com for storing my photos. Maybe I’ll even buy an external hard drive and store my photos on that so this never happens again.


A Trio of Lath-Back Windsor Chairs – Part Two

Pegs and 'Tails - Wed, 07/19/2017 - 4:49pm
I think one reader was a little upset with me for attaching the legs before bottoming the seats of the two forest chairs, so these lath-back Windsors were done vice versa. Natheless, the weather impelled me to bore all the … Continue reading
Categories: Hand Tools

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