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WORK No. 135 - Published October 17, 1891

Work Magazine Reprint Project - Fri, 10/17/2014 - 4:00am







ARTICLES FOUND IN THIS ISSUE:
SOME LESSONS IN WINDOW MAKING

HOW TO MAKE A WEATHER GLASS

WIRE-WORK IN ALL ITS BRANCHES

PRACTICAL PAPERS FOR SMITHS

IMPROVEMENTS IN HARNESS

DESIGN FOR A VILLAGE SCHOOL TO ACCOMMODATE 180 CHILDREN

A CHEAP LATHE CHUCK

OUR GUIDE TO GOOD THINGS

SHOP


Disclaimer: Articles in Work describe materials and methods that would not be considered safe or advisable today. We are not responsible for the content of these magazines, and cannot take any responsibility for anyone attempting projects or procedures described therein.
The first issue of Work was published on March 23rd, 1889. The goal of this project is to release digital copies of the individual issues starting on the same date in 2012, effectively republishing the materials 123 years to the day from their original release.
The original printing was on thin, inexpensive paper. There are many cases of uneven inking and bleed-through from the page behind. Our copies of Work come from bound library volumes of these issues and are subject to unfavorable trimming, missing covers, etc. To minimize harm to these fragile volumes, we've undertaken the task of scanning the books ourselves. We do considerable post processing of the scans to make them clear but please bear with us if a margin is clipped too close, or a few words are unreadable. We would like to thank James Vasile and Karl Fogel for their help in supplying us with a book scanner and generally enabling this project to get off the ground.
You are welcome to download, print, and pretty much do what you want with the scan for your own personal purposes. Feel free to post a link or a copy on your blog or website. All we ask is a link back to the original project and this blog. We are not answering requests for commercial downloads or reprinting at this time.


• Click to Download Vol.3 - No. 135 •




Categories: Hand Tools

Aldi UK Has 4-Set Chisels in Stock

Paul Sellers - Fri, 10/17/2014 - 1:15am

The now famous four-piece Aldi chisels are in stock and made to the usual standard with wooden handles. Usually they sell out in a few days but you won’t regret having a set or two of these chisels in your chisel collection of users. Still selling for just under £8 (per set not per chisel) you have a lifetime chisel set that will serve you for years to come. We have used over a hundred of the snow for five years and never broken one. They take and hold a keen edge which cannot be said for some of the high end makers these days. 8mm (5/16″), 12mm (1/2″), 18mm (11/16″) and 24mm (15/16″).

The post Aldi UK Has 4-Set Chisels in Stock appeared first on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Carved Red Oak Box

Inside the Oldwolf Workshop - Thu, 10/16/2014 - 9:44pm


I finished this earlier this month. It was a quick build because the client was hot to trot to get their hands on it. Originally I conceived this box as one half of a pair. Both boxes born from the same board. But the client came to me desperate for something fast and I'd already started this one at a demo. So I finished it up in a couple days and it's gone now. All I have left are the photos.


The box is red oak with black walnut trim. About 20 x 12 in dimension. I'm beginning to feel really good about these when they're done, I've started to dial in the details to where I want them. There are still things I want to explore in this form so I'm not done with it by a long shot.


As originally envisioned, I was going to build two carved boxes from the same board. The carvings were to complement each other or whatever I was going to do with those. But the insides, at least the inside of the lid, were supposed to be my first foray into parquetry.


 But one hot to trot person with money in their hands and I cave to my ideals. Oh well, I have some friends who are having a benefit for their son who has recently been diagnosed with Hodgekin's Lymphoma. I think I'll finish up that box and donate it to the benefit.


The number one question I get when people see my boxes in person is "Wow, how long did that take you." I've gotten wise enough so the first words out of my mouth are, "Well, it's not the first time I've done this." which softens the blow when I tell them the time.

Truth is I can knock out a box like this in a weekend. I cut parts and dovetails on a Friday night and spill some Danish Oil on it Sunday night. Carving and glue ups happen in between. The puzzling thing to me is the reaction I get when I admit something like this.


That I can be both efficient and proficient in getting something like this done seems to result in diminishing it's value. Non woodworkers want me to tell them I slaved over the carving for six months. Woodworkers want me to tell them it took me four hours to cut the dovetails by hand (an hour per corner without a router is the average guess)

It's a paradox I simply cannot wrap my head around sometimes.

But that rant is probably for another day.

Ratione et Passionis
Oldwolf
Categories: General Woodworking

Second top – TV Lift Cabinet

She Works Wood - Thu, 10/16/2014 - 9:10pm
I’ve finally gotten my computer situation worked out which means .. hopefully .. more blog posts.  I’ve been working away on the TV Lift Cabinet and making progress.  The end is in sight and I’m very excited to finish this project up.
Categories: General Woodworking

Redemption time!

Matt's Basement Workshop - Thu, 10/16/2014 - 5:35pm

It’s not that often I get a second chance at anything important, so when I received an email this evening asking if I’d be around Friday night to talk with Don Williams about the H.O. Studley Tool Chest and Workbench I made an audible gasp.

It took me longer to verify it wasn’t a fake email than to respond with a resounding “YES!”

don and the studley

So here’s where I need a little help. During this interview Don and the guys will have the cameras turned on the iconic tool chest and workbench and we have an opportunity to ask him all sorts of questions and get a closer look at it.

If you were in my seat, what questions would you have? Are there items or features you’d like to get a closer look at? Well here’s your opportunity.

I’m planning to not only record the audio of our conversation for the audio-only feed, but we’ll be recording our video chat, including closer looks at the tool chest.

Get those questions to me by 6pm Eastern Time. Submit them here, on any of my social media outlets or by emailing me by clicking here.

Help support the show – please visit our advertisers

Categories: Hand Tools

A little more about creating an elliptical plan

A Woodworker's Musings - Thu, 10/16/2014 - 4:43pm

Several folks wrote and said that they were having some difficulty getting their heads around this method.  Well don’t despair.  When I first read about this method, it took me a couple of days for it to sink in.  And, if you don’t have much experience with projective drawing, it’ll take a bit of cogitation.  Of course, at my age, everything takes a long time to sink in.  But it doesn’t necessarily stay “sunk in” for long.

But here’s a little more graphic information that might help.  First off, I elongated the major axis to make the model a little more easily understood.  So remember, A-B is the Minor axis, A-C is the Major axis.  I’ve divided the A-B line into equal segments (with a couple of little “cheater” segments at the ends.

001

 

Again, I extend the segments at right angles to the diagonal line and transfer the line measurements from the semi-circle.

002

 

I join the dots to create the elliptical line.  If I add this elliptical line to the diagonal line running from A to C, I’ve got a 1/2 plan.  I could use a flexible drawing spline to “fair” the line.  Or if I was working with a wooden plan, I’d simply fair the edge with a fine rasp.

003

 

If I want to see a full plan of the ellipsis, I simply extend the angled lines and transfer the measurement to the other side.  Again I connect the dots and I see the ellipsis in full view.  This is very helpful if I working in scale on a table, as I can quickly determine the appropriate rectangular measurements for the base.

004

 

Hope this helps.


Categories: Hand Tools

In Search of the Perfect Wax Finish

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 10/16/2014 - 3:53pm

My four-decade-long desire to identify, understand, replicate and develop new analogs to historic furniture-making materials has led me on some interesting quests and situations. Included in these would be learning a lot about tropical insects whose “sweat” is the foundation for the most amazing finish ever (shellac); studies of sausage casings, artificial skin and corneas as I tried to (successfully) create a convincing alternative to tortoiseshell for my own Boulle-work […]

The post In Search of the Perfect Wax Finish appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Factory Fiddle Scroll

Owyhee Mountain Fiddle Shop - Thu, 10/16/2014 - 2:28pm

Nothing special about this.  It's a typical ca. 1900 "factory fiddle", probably from Germany.  Labelled "Antonius Stradiuarius ... 1736".

I liked seeing the facets.  Hastily carved, by someone who had carved a few, and was just trying to make a living.  After that, the scroll itself has seen some use over the years.

Interesting character, I'd say.












Categories: Hand Tools, Luthiery

Customer projects

David Barron Furniture - Thu, 10/16/2014 - 2:21pm

First we have a very nice little box made for one of mini smoothers bought at the last Yandles show. Adam's wife and mother said it should be admired rather than used so this is a great compromise, returning it to it's little box after a work out!


The alignment board above was Lawrences first project with the guide. As I suggest in my video he left the legs over long in case things didn't go right at the first attempt, which they didn't. However his second attempt looks bang on, very impressive!
Categories: Hand Tools

More on Router Planes – Part II

Paul Sellers - Thu, 10/16/2014 - 1:36pm

Part II

DSC_0128The 071 or 71 router plane has several uses but the primary use of this specialised plane is to guarantee the depth of different types of recesses. It’s the essential tool of hand tool users and surface trims just about everything from inlay recesses to housing dadoes and levelling depths of sliding dovetails and the cheeks of tenons.

The tool comes with additional accoutrements as you can see above, enabling different functions for the plane’s use. DSC_0095The fence fits to the underside of the plane and is two-ended. One end of the fence piece gives a parallel squarely rectangular edge to the fence and the opposite side end a two-point contact fence that facilities turns on the edge of curved work. The fence is adjustable and locks into two square grooves running each side of the blade along the sole. DSC_0106Loosening and tightening the setscrew into the sole secures the fence for use. It’s best to use the fence when running the blade along a narrower recesses to keep the plane square and parallel to the wall of the work if necessary.DSC_0089

Because of a horseshoe shape in the sole that splits most of the forepart of the sole into two halves the plane sole is effectively useless on narrow sections of wood. On such narrow work, with no fore part before the blade, running grooves trips the plane forward because there is nothing to stop the plane from tilting in the direction of the cut when the cutting edge of the blade grabs the wood. Stanley developed an additional unit that locks a post stem into the body of the plane which then holds a shoe to align an auxiliary section level with the sole to fill in the gap between two halves of the sole.

DSC_0096

This piece then rides the edge of the board along with the flat of the rear of the plane. DSC_0093In addition, the depth rod that holds the shoe can be used alone inside a groove to align the blade and prevent the cutter from digging into the walls whilst at the same time restraining the plane from digging any deeper than  fractional increments. This effectively works as an additional sole depth guide for grooved work and the rod itself has two diameters, one for wider grooves and one for narrow ones.DSC_0085

We often use both the fence and the depth rod and shoe in conduction with one another to ensure accuracy in the work. The depth rod used alone can follow the rim of inlay recesses to guide the narrow cutter or the smoothing cutter around shaped work too.

Adding a Wooden Sole

It’s quite common to add a wooden sole for general work because sometimes the metal sole on wood tends to mare the surface of the material being worked. DSC_0127Wood on wood works best and makes the sole smooth and free of fence grooves, screw holes and so on that tend to grab shavings that can further mar the surface of the work too. When working wide recess areas, wider than half the plane sole width, we use an auxiliary sole to extend the base so that the router plane can traverse the surface area and be used to trim the recess perfectly to depth. Making an additional sole piece also enables us to use the plane without the additional shoe on narrower work (Pic above). The plane operates more smoothly with the wooden sole.

DSC_0109

To make the wooden sole choose section of wood  12mm (1/2”) thick and to a size that suits the task in hand. DSC_0112Bore two holes 1” in diameter  38mm (1 1/2”) on centre and remove the excess with a rasp or chisel.

DSC_0113

Screw the base to the sole of the plane by passing screws through the sole into the base piece.

Sometimes, often, router planes bought secondhand have lost the parts you need to have the plane fully functioning. Adding the wooden sole means you can also screw fences or guides to the sole. This also works well.

The post More on Router Planes – Part II appeared first on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

On the Importance of the Studley Tool Chest

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Thu, 10/16/2014 - 12:38pm

studley_corner_IMG_0064_2

During the last five years, I’ve had more than my share of intimate contact with the famous H.O. Studley tool cabinet. And so wherever I travel I get asked this question: “What’s it like?”

So I lie.

“I hate it,” I say. And then I talk about how stressful it is to unload and load all the 245 tools from such a precious artifact without dropping them or harming the chest.

The truth is, my encounters with the chest have changed both me and my woodworking. (And I’m sure that Don Williams, the book’s author and team leader, and Narayan Nayar, the photographer, would concur.)

studley_detail_IMG_0060_2

The chest mocks us. It is a piece of craftsmanship and design that is virtually faultless, no matter how close you get to it. It’s an experience you don’t get from looking at the poster of the chest or a picture on a screen. It is something that is best experienced in person.

If you start with your eye about 2” from the chest you can see that the interior surfaces are exquisite. The inlay is seamless. The grain has no defects.

As you step back, you can see how each grouping of tools is organized. They are stepped and scaled in an orderly fashion, some of them looking a bit like a military formation.

studley_2015_open_IMG_0062

You step back again. And again. Until it is at the back of the room. At no point does it become imperfect.

We are finishing up our shooting and filming of the chest (and Studley’s workbench) this week for the forthcoming book “Virtuoso.” I promise the book will be incredible on every level we can manage. But what I also recommend that you – as a craftsman – make a pilgrimage to see the chest in person in May 2015 in Cedar Rapids, Iowa. Details at www.studleytoolchestexhibit.com/.

It will humble you, as it has me. And it will inspire you to be a better woodworker or toolmaker. The only reason not to go is if you are already a better woodworker than H.O. Studley.

— Christopher Schwarz


Filed under: Uncategorized, Virtuoso: The Toolbox of Henry O. Studley
Categories: Hand Tools

If Bad-Luck Brian were a woodworker

The Slightly Confused Woodworker - Thu, 10/16/2014 - 12:04pm

By now, just about everybody with a computer and internet access has seen or heard of the “Bad Luck Brian” meme. Bad luck Brian is a hapless lad with a bad yearbook photo that can seem to catch a break. I have to think that poor Brian may have once or twice thought about giving woodworking a shot, so here is my take on that very idea. Some of them are obvious, some a bit more subtle.

becomes-a-woodworker

buys-sawstop-saw

instead-of-woodworking

subscribes-to-popularkeeps-subscription-towins-shopping-spree

writes-hand-tool


Categories: General Woodworking

Drawer slips

Trial and Error - Woodworker - Thu, 10/16/2014 - 11:33am

I’m preparing the pieces that will be needed for the drawers in the lingerie chest I am making. The drawer sides are very thin and to cut a drawer bottom groove in it would make it very weak. Instead, I’ve opted to include drawer slips – a piece of wood glued to the side to effectively thicken the drawer side where the grove is located.

Record 043 plow plane groove Chamfer on drawer slides Sawing a drawer slip Drawer slip

I began with a board just longer than my drawer sides and wide enough to cut 12 drawer slips. For each slip I completed the following steps:

  • Plane the board flat.
  • Create the groove (I used a Record 043 plow plane with a 1/4″ blade).
  • Marked the thickness of the slip and the chamfer limits with a marking gauge.
  • Chamfer to one side of the groove – this will be the side seen in the drawer bottom in use.
  • Riped the slip from the board with a big rip saw.
  • Planed away the saw marks to leave a good surface to glue to the drawer sides.

Further reading: Popular Woodworking has two articles available that cover drawer slips by Chris Schwarz and Glen Huey.


Filed under: Drawers & dressers, Projects Tagged: drawer, Record 043 plane
Categories: Hand Tools

Work on the desk resumes

Oregon Woodworker - Thu, 10/16/2014 - 11:15am
It has been so long since I posted about this project that you may have forgotten it.  If you want to, you can refresh your memory by clicking on the Desk topic to the right.  After talking several times with my client/son, the design of the gallery changed somewhat.  At 12" high, the cabinets are shorter and have only one drawer with an open space above them.  My son felt that this would give him the most flexibility, although I am still thinking about providing for a removable shelf midway in one or both.


You will notice that the drawers are made with wide finger joints that are protruding.  I had originally wanted to make this desk in the Greene and Greene style, but my son rejected that as "too ornate."  I think he was reacting to all the ebony plugs, so I decided to sneak in some Greene and Greene influence with these drawers.  I have always admired how they look, especially after seeing them in person at the Gamble house in Pasadena.  


These fingers will be pillowed in the familiar style.  I think they will be in keeping with the style of the desk, the through tenons in particular.  Like the rest of the desk, these are made from rift sawn white oak, which I have really grown to like.  It is somewhat plain, but I think it will provide a nice contrast with the highly figured desktop and draw the eye to it.

I hesitated for a long time about what joinery to use.  In many respects, half-blind dovetails are the logical choice, because neither the top nor the bottom of these will be visible.  However, I finally decided that dados and rabbets would be more in keeping with the style of the desk.  I know some of you will be skeptical about the strength of these joints, but I will write a later post about why I believe they are stronger than commonly assumed.


Just to make sure, the joints are reinforced with 12 riven pegs in each cabinet.  There will also be a half-lap back on each cabinet which my design will cause to be very rigid.


I made these drawers based on the way Paul Sellers made those in his tool chest.  The sides stick out beyond the back so they cause the drawer to be supported when fully opened, a nice feature here so the drawer won't inadvertently fall out onto the desktop or drag across it.



This picture gives you the idea.


Another advantage of this design is that it provides a convenient place to install stop blocks so that the front of the drawers are precisely aligned with the front of the cabinet when fully closed.  Maybe this was obvious to you, but it was new to me and it works very well.



Categories: Hand Tools

“Handwork in Wood” – Wood Hand Tools, Part Nine: Pounding and Holding Tools

Heritage School of Woodworking Blog - Thu, 10/16/2014 - 9:45am

The following comes from William Noyes’s 1910 classic, Handwork in Wood. See the whole Handwork in Wood series (so far) here. More to come. Pounding Tools The hammer consists of two distinct parts, the head and the handle. The head is made of steel, so hard that it will not be indented by hitting against nails or the butt of nailsets, punches, […]

The post “Handwork in Wood” – Wood Hand Tools, Part Nine: Pounding and Holding Tools appeared first on Heritage School of Woodworking Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Quality

Northwest Woodworking - Thu, 10/16/2014 - 7:46am

Dream all you like. Think about what it would be like to be skilled in a craft. But skill is gained only by work. Mastery comes after years of study, the rewards through discipline & sacrifice. Sigh.

Quality work does not come through an afternoon’s study. It is the work of a lifetime. And why not? What great skilled worker learned their craft in a weekend? What musician became masterful in a few hours of study?

It is this very process of learning your skill, of practicing your craft that is the goal. Never reachable, always worth striving for. Quality is not perfection. It is real, it is actual, and changeable as we learn more, as we discover more about our tools and about ourselves. Begin.

1-USFS Bass carving GR


Categories: Hand Tools

Quick, Easy, and Great-looking Turned Christmas Ornaments – Part 3 -The Christmas Tree Light Bulb

Highland Woodworking - Thu, 10/16/2014 - 7:15am

In the most recent issue of The Highland Woodturner, I gave the step-by-step instruction of turning a wooden snowman ornament. In Part 2 you can find out how to turn a wooden bell ornament here on the Highland Woodworking blog. Finally, here in Part 3 I will turn a wooden Christmas tree light as seen below.

Figure-3

Making the light bulb ornament follows the same steps as the two earlier ornaments: mount the blank, use the template to lay out the parts, mark off those lines with a parting tool, and start shaping the bulb. See Figures 1 through 4 below.

Figure 1  -  Use the bulb template to mark the sections of the ornament

Figure 1 – Use the bulb template to mark the sections of the ornament

Figure 2  -  Use a parting tool to make shallow cuts at each marked line

Figure 2 – Use a parting tool to make shallow cuts at each marked line

Figure 3 - Use a spindle gouge to shape the bulb...

Figure 3 – Use a spindle gouge to shape the bulb…

Figure 4 -  Taper the bulb just like the tree lights from the 1960's

Figure 4 – Taper the bulb just like the tree lights from the 1960′s

I’ve found the skew is quite useful in the small curve at the top of the bulb (Figure 5). Once the bulb is shaped to your satisfaction, use a parting tool to waste away material on the socket area.

Figure 5 - Use a skew at the top of the bulb area (a gouge will also work, of course)

Figure 5 – Use a skew at the top of the bulb area (a gouge will also work, of course)

Figure 6 - Start cutting down the socket area of the ornament

Figure 6 – Start cutting down the socket area of the ornament

Figure 7 -  Take the socket down to around 3/8 inch diameter

Figure 7 – Take the socket down to around 3/8 inch diameter

If you have a fluted parting tool (Figure 8), it is excellent for cutting small beads that simulate the threads of the bulb’s screw connector. If you don’t have one, a skew can be used to cut sharp threads with a V-cut, or a small gouge can be used.

Figure-8-Ornament

Figure 8 – A fluted parting tool

Figure-10-Light

Figure 9 – Use the fluted parting tool to cut the socket
“threads”

Figure 10 - After shaping the bulb and socket

Figure 10 – After shaping the bulb and socket

Apply finish and wax

Figure 11 – Apply finish and wax

Finally part off the ornament (Figure 12). I’ve drilled the hanger holes on the drill press for the bulb ornaments, as discussed above, so with a drop of glue, the hanger can be screwed in place. (Figure 13)

Figure 12  - Part off the light bulb ornament

Figure 12 – Part off the light bulb ornament

Figure 13 - Put a drop of CA glue on the hanger hole, then insert the hanger

Figure 13 – Put a drop of CA glue on the hanger hole, then insert the hanger

The Christmas tree light bulb ornament is finished!

Figure 14 - The completed bulb ornament

Figure 14 – The completed bulb ornament

CLICK HERE to return to the October 2014 issue of The Highland Woodturner.

 

The post Quick, Easy, and Great-looking Turned Christmas Ornaments – Part 3 -The Christmas Tree Light Bulb appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Quick, Easy, and Great-looking Turned Christmas Ornaments – Part 2 – The Bell

Highland Woodworking - Thu, 10/16/2014 - 7:00am

In the first part of this article, I showed how to make a Christmas tree ornament shaped like a snowman (see Figure 1). In this part, I’ll show you how to turn a bell ornament (Figure 2).

figure1

Figure 1 – The Snowman Ornament

figure2

Figure 2 – The Bell Ornament

Ornament Sizes

Figure 3 below shows the size of the blanks for the bell ornament, and details the location of each major division of the piece.

Figure 4 - Ornament Sizing

Figure 3 – Ornament Sizing

If you, like me, are making lots of these ornaments for Christmas gifts, I suggest making a sizing template for each ornament (Figure 4). This makes it much faster to lay out each new blank when you’re ready to turn it.

Figure 5 - Templates for the 3 Types of Ornaments

Figure 4 – Template for the Bell Ornament

Preparing the Blanks

Part 1 of this article has more detailed instructions on preparing the blanks for the ornaments, so I won’t repeat them here.

For the bell ornaments, cut lengths of 1 ½ square spindles to 3 ½ inches; for the bulb ornaments, cut lengths of 1 inch square spindles to 3 inches. Mark the ends for center, mount them between centers, and rough them down to round. On one end, cut a ½ inch long tenon to fit whatever chuck you’re using.

You may wish to drill a hole for the hanger right now (Figure 5); it’s easier to do it now, rather than waiting until the ornament has been turned and doesn’t have a flat surface to sit on. Remember that for the bell and bulb ornaments, the top of the ornament is on the chuck end, so the hole needs to be at least an inch deep (to account for the tenon which is parted off).

Figure 6 - Drill a hole for the hanger on the top of the ornament, either before turning (shown) or after

Figure 5 – Drill a hole for the hanger on the top of the ornament, either before turning (shown) or after

Making the bell ornament

To make the bell ornament, take one of the bell blanks and mount it in the chuck. Then use the bell template to mark off the parts of the bell (Figure 6). Use a parting tool to cut in a half inch or so at the first line (in the waste area) to mark the end of the turning (Figure 7)

Figure-7

Figure 6 – Use the bell template to mark off the sections of the bell ornament

Figure 8  - Use a parting tool to delineate the top of the ornament

Figure 7 – Use a parting tool to delineate the top of the ornament

The bell ornament is laid out so that the bottom of the ornament is toward the tailstock. After making shallow cuts at the marked lines, I start by working on the bottom, cutting a shallow curve across, going in about 2/3 of the diameter, and then, right in the center, turning a small “bump” (Figures 8 and 9), which is the clapper of the bell, just visible below the bell’s body.

Figure 9  - Using a spindle gouge, start a shallow curve on the bottom (rightmost) part of the bell

Figure 8 – Using a spindle gouge, start a shallow curve on the bottom (rightmost) part of the bell

Figure 10  - Cut in about 2/3 of the diameter, to leave a rounded "bump" on the bottom

Figure 9 – Cut in about 2/3 of the diameter, to leave a rounded “bump” on the bottom

With the clapper shaped, move left to the body of the bell. Using the spindle gouge, begin cutting a slope from the bottom edge to the marked line to the left, which is the top edge of the body. For a decoration, leave a raised flat area at both the bottom and top edges of the body.

Figure 11- Start turning the body of the bell

Figure 10- Start turning the body of the bell

Figure 12  - Slope the body from the bottom (right) to the top (left)

Figure 11 – Slope the body from the bottom (right) to the top (left)

After shaping the body as desired, move left again to the crown of the bell (between the waste cutoff and the body). Turn a large bead in this area.

Figure 13 - Begin shaping the crown of the bell

Figure 12 – Begin shaping the crown of the bell

Figure 14 - This is turned as a rather fat bead

Figure 13 – This is turned as a rather fat bead

Using a narrow parting tool or the toe of a skew, cut a couple of very shallow lines at the top and bottom of the body, and use a burning wire (a length of steel wire with a small handle on each end – homemade of course, although you can buy them) to burn in two dark black lines for decoration (Figure 14). You might want to increase the speed of the lathe up to 1500 or 1900 if you’re having trouble getting a burn. Be aware, you’ll get smoke, as shown in Figure 15.

Figure 15 - Burn a line at the top of the body

Figure 14 – Burn a line at the top of the body

Figure 16  - And burn a line at the bottom of the body

Figure 15 – And burn a line at the bottom of the body

Unless you want to do more decoration, the bell ornament is ready for finishing. As with the snowman ornament, put on a coat of friction polish with the lathe off, polish it with the application cloth, put on some wax with the lathe on, and polish it with the wax applicator cloth (or paper towel).

Figure 17 - Apply a friction polish…

Figure 16 – Apply a friction polish…

Figure 18 - …and a coat of wax

Figure 17 – …and a coat of wax

Part the bell ornament off (Figure 18), and in the same manner as the snowman ornament, attach a hanger on the top.

Figure 19  - Part off the bell ornament

Figure 18 – Part off the bell ornament

Figure 20 - Be sure to catch the piece as you part it off

Figure 19 – Be sure to catch the piece as you part it off

(If you haven’t already drilled the hanger hole, you’ll have to do that first, of course.) If you’re mass-producing, however, set the ornament aside, turn all the other bells, then drill all of them for the hanger.

The bell ornament is finished!

Figure 21  - The completed bell ornament

Figure 20 – The completed bell ornament

CLICK HERE for Part 3 - The Christmas Tree Light Bulb (seen below)

Figure-3

The Christmas Tree Light Bulb

The post Quick, Easy, and Great-looking Turned Christmas Ornaments – Part 2 – The Bell appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Do You Feel What I Am Saying?

The Workbench Diary - Thu, 10/16/2014 - 4:48am
This is NOT what I do

Here's a quick tip:

When setting the depth of cut on your bench plane irons, a number of folks recommend sighting down the sole to eyeball the protruding edge. People especially like this with metal bodied planes with the adjusting knob. In my experience I have found this difficult to do with an degree of accuracy. The way I was trained (even on metal bodied planes) was to rely on touch rather than sight. I was taught to use the gentle brushing of two fingers to feel the set iron depth. You can even easily tell if the iron is skewed. I find this gives much more feedback than my eye. Quick, simple, and easy to do in the low lighting of period shops. Give it try.

THIS is what I do.

Let know what you think. Have you tried this method?

Categories: Hand Tools

Bench Design; What's In A Name?

Inside the Oldwolf Workshop - Wed, 10/15/2014 - 9:11pm
With the help I received getting the bench top done, I had to make some decisions on what I wanted from the bench and I had to decide now. The longer the benchtop sits and waits the better chance it will warp, or fall on the floor, or be confiscated by the underwear gnomes. (It's a side business for them)

Noah building the Arc at his workbench. From the Maciejoski Bible circa 1250AD.

What I need the bench to do is easy. Workbench Whisperer Chris Schwarz has a list of ten rules for workbenches that lays out everything you need to know. Really, it's everything. trust me, if it's not on the list then forget it.

Want to cover the ankles of your workbench with lace so the sight of it's slender ankles doesn't unduly excite the men-folk? Your answer is on that list. . . trust me.

My issue is in all the names. There are so many names, and fads, and trends when it comes to workbenches. Sometimes it's like hearing the well off doctors at work talk about their cars.

"What kind of workbench do you use?'

"Oh, I'm into a standard Roubo now, but I may upgrade to a split top next year."

"Have you seen the specs on the Nicholson? I understand it's back in vogue again."

"Did you see Jim was still planing on a Holtzapffel. . . that's so ten years ago."

As I reflect on it, I find it a little over the top. I don't remember my grandfather's workbench having a name, It was his workbench, it did what he needed it to do or he modified it. It wasn't a near and dear thing. It was a workbench, a tool, a place to work. Sentimentality need not apply.

But there is sentimentality for an old bench. I have enjoyed the hours I've spent working at the one I'm using now, but I can do better and I've grown as a woodworker, so much since I built the first bench. I need better. As I make the decision moving forward on my new workbench, I try and take the lessons I learned from my last bench and step forward.

The only name I've truly considered is Dominy.


On display at Winterthur Museum is the preserved remains of the historic Dominy Brother's workshop. Included is a 12 foot long workbench. It's that correlation in length that has made me think about it.

In the end, I'm not that interested in a twin screw vise for my workholding. I have a moxon vise that does that better (hmmm another name). I like a leg vise myself but I like the sliding deadman a lot especially considering the 12 foot span. The trouble is every picture I can find of the Dominy bench is obscured by the rest of the museum and that damn tall clock case.


Then I saw this bench, called "The Workhorse," from Richard Maguire, a man who makes traditional workbenches for a living, and it seems like the right configurations. Mine will be a little different yet. I want a traditional saw toothed plane stop. and I'm not so sure about a tail vise. I don't have or use one now.

In the end I say, forget the name, figure out what you like and name it yourself.

Ratione et Passionis
Oldwolf
Categories: General Woodworking

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by Dr. Radut