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Stanley 2358 miter box......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 09/22/2017 - 1:26am
Finally did something with the miter box. It has been gathering dust since I bought earlier this year. I decided to see if I could get it together and start making sawdust with it. I had bought it already rehabbed for $$$ I don't remember and I had bought it for this reason and that it was complete.

almost forgot this
The last saw I sent out didn't have this shipping info in the inside of the box and I almost lost it in the USPS system. I unscrewed the lid to put the to/from in it and I found that I had deleted the shipping address I had gotten as an email. I will have to wait to get it again and this will most likely go out on saturday.

all the parts are here
This is what the seller told me. All the parts except for the saw but I already had one. In fact I bought another miter box saw I for $25. I'll be trying that one out in the box first.

axle hitch grease
I spread some grease on this and the same part on the swinging arm.

not lining up
I got the bolt holding the arm screwed in but the front end isn't aligned. There are two pins here, one large and one small that are the problem.

the angle detent
This is what is not lining up for me and not giving me a happy face. There is a small pin on the arm that falls into the detent to lock the arm. It isn't even close to lining up.

the smaller pin is for the angle detent
I didn't know what the larger pin is for right now. I thought maybe it was a bearing surface for possibly keeping the arm at a certain spacing between itself and the half circle with the detents.

the light bulb came on when I saw this.
I was preparing to take the arm apart at this end. I could see that the arm had to go further towards the back to align the detent pin with the detent holes. As I turned this on the side the large pin moved to this position. This obviously hooks on the half circle somehow and then the detent pin should line up with the detents.

how it has to go on
The hook on the big pin goes on the half circle on this end (or the other one). Doing this by myself was incredibly awkward and a huge, huge, PITA. I was swearing so much at this that even I was blushing. I tried raising it up on my gluing helpers but they won't high enough. Hanging it off the bench didn't work because the arm was at the 45°. I didn't have enough arms and hands to do it horizontally and still see what I was doing.  I finally got some joy with standing it vertically on one end. It wasn't ideal but I was able to get the arm hooked on the half circle and the bolt screwed down.

how it goes on
I had this very loose and managed to hold it in a detent while I got the bolt screwed in.

setting the tension
This screw sets how tight the big pin hook is pulled down onto the half circle groove it turns in. If you tighten it down too much, it pulls the detent pin down too. I tightened it to where it first started to pull the detent pin down and backed it off a 1/4 turn. I'll have to use it for a while until to get a feel for it before I change it.

I had taken this off first thinking it might have been interfering with setting the arm. It didn't and has nothing to do with positioning the arm in any way. I screwed it back down and set it on zero.

the base feet are toast
Only three of the legs touch the bench. I won't be able to screw this to an auxiliary base until I straighten them out and get a 'four' point contact.

$25 saw
It fits and it doesn't fit. This is as far as the saw will drop which makes it good for only sawing air.

found some help
The 2x4 raised the bed up high enough that I could saw a piece of scrap. The saw behaved much better than I expected. The sawing action was smooth and easy.  I was able to hold the stock and not have the saw grab and move it. The saw is also sharp and easily went through the stock with no hesitation at all.

multiple saw cuts
I only made one 90° and a bunch of 45° cuts (all from the right side). The face of the cut isn't a planed surface but the roughness of it isn't terrible. I would put it above a 80 grit sandpaper feel and below a 120 grit. I would be alright with using stock off the saw with this box.

this is a pretty good lucking dry fitted 45°
I can definitely live with this
supposed to have two of these
This is part of the system for setting the depth of the saw cut. I took off the two of them (one set on the front and rear saw posts) to see if I could get the $25 saw to sit deeper. It did nothing for that and I lost the back one. I unscrewed the back one by reaching over from the front and I dropped the screw which fell on the deck and this which landed where?

I checked under the bench where I keep the planes and hadn't fallen there. I swept the floor and piled the shavings up and sifted through them trying to find it. No joy. I then ran a magnet through it and I only found that my #6 screws I used on the shipping box are magnetic. I didn't find what I was looking for.

look what I found

I was screwing the parts back on the saw guide post when I saw it. There much tumultuous joy and dancing in Mudville.

what is this?

they are laying flat here
I didn't check it but I can't imagine the cast iron base on the miter saw not being flat. I was hoping one foot would be high making it easy to fix. It looks like I'll be putting them on, banging on them, until it lays flat. I'll try that tomorrow because now it's shop quitting time. Wrestling with the arm trying to get it on took more time than I thought.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What did Francis Crick and James Watson find in 1953?
answer - they are credited with discovering the DNA double helix

New Tool Coming from Bridge City! Here’s Clue #1…

Bridge City Tools - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 1:33pm

Driveled Starved Nation!

Over the past several months I have alluded to a project I began on my work retreat last February. Today is September 21st and it is finished! I’ve been playing with the last physical prototype for about 3 weeks and I am pleased to share that we are going into our pre-production routine next week which includes sourcing and pricing. The pre-order window is still several weeks away.

Before I share our first clue, I am admitting that this project very well may make us the laughing stock of the internet–maybe you too. And if so, I could care less, this thing is so MUCH FUN! Actually, it is so much fun I will give you TWO clues today (isn’t that nice?), one a word and the other an image:

1) “Gesture”

2) Here is a little sub-assembly to keep your brain occupied until the next clue;

See the little red aluminum part? It is 47mm long. And the threaded shaft that is driving it is M6x1.0, Left-hand threads too. From those clues, you can size the rest of the assembly. (We have converted completely to metric here, so don’t read anything into this other than the Imperial measuring system is SO inefficient.)

The subassembly pictured also contains the following (not all are visible);
2 steel washers
1 retaining ring
1 spring washer
1 nylon washer
1 set screw

My only response to your comments will come from this short list;

really warm
What meds you on?
nice try.
Who gave you insider information?

I haven’t decided what the prize is going to be for guessing this invention… maybe a copy of the letter from my patent lawyer questioning my sensibilities…


The post New Tool Coming from Bridge City! Here’s Clue #1… appeared first on John's Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Block Planes

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 1:00pm

A modern favorite. Block planes get a bad rap from the hand-tool purists, but they are the proletariat’s favorite plane. They are simple to set up and use. And they are inexpensive.

This is an excerpt from “The Anarchist’s Tool Chest” by Christopher Schwarz.

You can build furniture without a block plane. But why should you? The block plane is one of the greatest hand-tool inventions of the Industrial Revolution, in my opinion. With a block plane and a little skill you can accomplish almost any task. These tools trim end grain, face grain and whatever else you ask of them – and they do it even if the iron is a mite dull (thanks to their lower pitch). They are the most flexible plane ever manufactured. You can change the pitch of the tool with great ease and close or open the mouth with no special tools. And they are simple to set up.

Woodworking purists scoff at the tool, but I think that this is only because it doesn’t fit into their narrow tool list. If block planes had been invented in the 18th century, you can dang well bet that every re-enactor would be spouting off about how the block plane was the savior of the age.

In fact, I have to say that the block plane is one of my favorite planes because it was the first hand tool I ever used with great success.

When making my very first piece of handmade furniture, a sitting bench, I realized that I needed a way to trim the bench’s front and back pieces to the seat of the bench. I didn’t have an electric sander – much to my chagrin – so I decided to go to Walmart and buy a block plane. I don’t know where I got this idea; probably from my grandfather.

They had one block plane. It was a “Popular Mechanics” brand and was cheap and blue. I bought it, took it home and put it to work. It was not sharp. I did not sharpen it. It cut the pine surprisingly well. I can remember being amazed at the curly shavings that emerged from the mouth. I knew at that moment how powerful hand tools could be, even if wielded by a moron.

If you look at the history of block planes, you should be prepared for some enormous diversity and confusion. It seems that toolmakers made more kinds of block planes than any other kind of tool. I’m going to try to boil down the major features here for you, but be aware that I cannot cover every kind of block plane ever made.

Low Angle or Standard?
Block planes come in two flavors: low-angle or standard-angle. Low-angle tools have the iron bedded on a ramp that is 12° off of the sole. Standard planes have a 20° bed. Low-angle planes make it easier to achieve lower planing angles, which are nice for end grain. Standard-angle planes make it easier to achieve higher planing angles, which are nice for reducing tear-out.

The reason I always use a low-angle block plane is two-fold.

1. The lower angle makes for a more compact tool that fits better in my hand. Your mileage may vary here.

2. With the low-angle plane you have a wider variety of planing angles available to you. You can achieve angles as low as 37°. Standard-angle planes can only go as low as 45°, if you want the edge to last more than a few strokes. Both planes can achieve high-planing angles. So the low-angle tools are more versatile.

So I see no reason to even own a standard-angle block plane. And I don’t.

Adjustable Mouth or Not?
Low-rent block planes generally have a fixed mouth, though there are some nice small block planes with fixed mouths. I prefer an adjustable mouth. Why? When I am using a block plane to true end grain, I don’t want the leading corner of the work diving into the mouth aperture. When I work in tricky grain, I will use every weapon available to me to attempt to reduce tearing – including an adjustable mouth.

And when I need to hog off material, I simply open the mouth as wide as it will go. Easy. If you have only one block plane, I recommend a low-angle tool with an adjustable mouth.

Lateral Adjustment or Not?
All block planes have lateral adjustment – you can tap the blade left or right to tweak the position of the cutting edge in the mouth. The question here is whether you need a lateral-adjustment mechanism, which can be as simple as a plate that shifts left or right to move the blade left or right, all the way up to a Norris-style adjuster that will control both the depth of cut and the lateral adjustment.

I find that all lateral-adjustment mechanisms that are supplied on a plane generally offer only coarse adjustments. The fine adjustments come from tapping the plane’s iron with a hammer. So to me, it doesn’t really matter if the plane offers some sort of formal lateral-adjustment mechanism. That’s because of the way I adjust a block plane:

• Sight down the sole and extend the iron until it appears as a black line against the shiny sole.

• Use your fingers to shift the iron left or right until the black line protrudes consistently from the mouth.

• Retract the iron to take up the screw-feed mechanism’s backlash. Then extend the iron a bit and use a small hammer to tap the iron left or right into its final position.

So do what you want to here. You don’t have to have a lateral-adjust mechanism. But it won’t hurt your efforts either.

Meghan Bates

Filed under: The Anarchist's Tool Chest
Categories: Hand Tools

Dugout Chair Part 7, The Bark Flies

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 11:57am

Before I could strip the bark off the dugout chair, I needed to shape the chair’s back. The bark had all my layout marks indicating the final shape of the chair. Armed with the TurboPlane, I smoothed out the steps I had cut into the stump earlier with my chainsaw. When I shaped the chair with a chainsaw, I sawed kerfs up and down the back of the chair that […]

The post Dugout Chair Part 7, The Bark Flies appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

Krenov sawhorses

Oregon Woodworker - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 10:56am
Recently I decided to make a new pair of sawhorses to replace the traditional ones I made years ago.  I wanted them to be suitable for use with handsaws as I don't find sawbenches to be satisfactory.  I just don't find the position comfortable or conducive to accurate sawing and the old sawhorses are too high and long to use for handsawing in my shop.

As I often do, I started by searching for online images and was immediately attracted to a design by James Krenov.  They are functional and handsome in my opinion.  I really appreciate great design like this and knew I would enjoy seeing them in my shop as well as using them.

Of course, I had to put my own spin on them.  Since it is a felony in Oregon to build sawhorses out of anything other than douglas-fir, I used kiln dried 2x6s for my version.  I experimented with the height and decided thaThet 29" was about right.  Here is what I came up with:

The sides are mortised into the base and the stretcher is connected with wedged through tenons.

They nest together nicely so they don't take up much floor space when they are not in use.

 A nice feature of these sawhorses is that the stretcher can be used for a shelf, which I think will be very handy when I am assembling and finishing smaller projects.

To me, they are strong and look great.  I've tried sawing on them and am very pleased.  They were fun to build in about a day.

As I was building these sawhorses, it occurred to me that they would make a great project for an entry level course in hand tool woodworking.  Douglas-fir is inexpensive and easy to work.  The joinery is varied and moderately challenging.  They would serve as a good introduction to tablemaking.  I wonder if that is part of the reason Krenov designed them the way he did.  I've seen pictures of his school and notice that each of the students seem to have a pair at the end of their bench.
Categories: Hand Tools

Making a handle for a pocket knife 2

Mulesaw - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 10:09am
I shaped the handle using a round and a half round file to get close to the shape that I wanted.

Before sanding I needed to drill the recessed holes for the heads of the screws.
I ground a drill like a router bit and mounted in our drill press. I had marked out where it should go and then I drilled very carefully. The first result was perfect. But in the other side f the knife, a small chip broke off, and I had to glue it back on with some super glue. I have ended up making the handle just a little bit too thin in the forward end of the knife, because the screws are setting against the threaded piece inside before reaching the wood. It is maybe 1/50" too shallow, so I doubt that it will have any effect on the general use of the knife. But the problem is that I know it..

After that I sanded with the different available grits that we have out here, ending up with a purple and a green scotch brite pad together with some olive oil (because that is what I could get my hands on)

Finally I sharpened the knife and put it back in the drawer where I found it.

It has been a quick little project, and there are lots of possibilities for improvements, but The important thing was to get a feel for how this Bubinga is to work with, and I have a better understanding about that now than prior to the project.
The knife itself seems to have been constructed so it would fit a plastic handle. That made it a bit difficult and necessitated the addition of an aluminium piece in the back of the handle. both to act as a distance piece and as a way of securing that end of the blade/spring unit.

I am pretty sure that there are pocket knives out there more suited to re-handling than this one, so if anyone is interested in trying it out for themselves, I suggest getting something that was meant for a wooden handle.

A positive thing about making handles is that it can be done with a very limited tool set, and it doesn't require a lot of shop space. But I am not quite as attracted to that sort of woodworking as to e.g box making, so I doubt that I will turn into a full time knife maker.

Glamour shot of the end.

Before oil and final sanding and without screws.

Small blade and large handle.

Oiled and finished.

Oiled and finished on the other side too.

Categories: Hand Tools

Other Anarchist Designers

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 9:48am


When I wrote “The Anarchist’s Design Book” during a five-year period, my hope was that my explanations of staked and boarded furniture forms would inspire other woodworkers to take up the tools and produce their own variations.

Lots of woodworkers have built the staked sawbench, backstool, chair and worktable. And, in the boarded category, I’ve seen a lot of bookcases, tool chests and six-board chests during the last two years.

My favorite response to the book, however, has been among those who took the designs in the book and pushed them further. I truly think that staked and boarded forms have few limits. You can make almost anything you need for your house with these techniques. And (here’s the best part) these techniques are extraordinarily fast – rivaling the pocket screw and Domino in the speed department.

If you’d like to see how others are approaching these pieces, here are some links.

Brendan Gaffney, the new managing editor at Popular Woodworking Magazine, has been churning out staked projects for his new apartment in Covington, Ky. Check out this entry that discusses his pieces. I like how he modified the chairs with a lower crest, clipped the corners on the worktable and added a splash of color to the set.

Greg Merritt at Hillbilly Daiku has been turning out some fascinating variations, including his sewing table, his version of the staked stool and a side table with an underhung drawer. Greg pushed the aesthetic of these designs with his pyrography, color and additions of rope.

Jason Thigpen at Texas Heritage Woodworks is currently working on a staked armchair (so am I). We are taking totally different tacks, and I can’t wait to see how his comes out. You can see a lot more examples of these forms on Instagram by following the #stakedfurniture hashtag.

Also exciting to see: People teaching classes based on these designs and their adaptations.

If you have links to other people who have adapted these designs, post them in the comments below. Your link might just inspire someone else to pick up the tools.

Final note: I like to mention every now and again that my designs are “open source.” Use them however you please. Make copies or change them. Sell your work. The only “no-no” is reproducing the book and selling it….

— Christopher Schwarz, editor, Lost Art Press
Personal site: christophermschwarz.com

P.S. There will be a third book in the “anarchist” series. But it’s too soon to discuss it (no it’s not “The Anarchist’s Birdhouse”).

Filed under: Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Festool Recon – New Reconditioned Tools Website from Festool

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 9:22am

From time to time, Festool offers their reconditioned tools in a big sale, which presents an opportunity to purchase their tools at a decent price point. Several of my tools from Festool are reconditioned, and I wouldn’t have known – they came “like new.” A new website from the German toolmaker has cropped up, with a tantalizing URL: festoolrecon.com. While the website is vague as to exactly what it will be […]

The post Festool Recon – New Reconditioned Tools Website from Festool appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Olliver Sparks Plane at EWS

David Barron Furniture - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 9:18am

Ollie Sparks had some of his beautiful planes on display at EWS including a small, numbered batch of miniature smoothers. Based on the rare Norris no 21 this is his interpretation.

Ollie cast the bronze body himself and even turned the bolts on his lathe.
The lovely infill is Honduran rosewood.

As usual the mouth is extremely tight and despite it's size is a very usable plane.
It is 3 1/2" long x 1 1/4" wide with a 1" blade bedded around 52 degrees.
This plane is mine but I believe Ollie has one left from the batch priced at £700 if anyone is interested.

Sadly I don't own an original Norris 21 but this A14 has a similar rear end and will give you a sense of scale.

Categories: Hand Tools

Video: Simple String Inlay with Your Router

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 8:00am

String inlay is a quick and dramatic way to add interest and dimension to any woodworking project. And it’s not just string inlay, you can add banding and any number of decorative veneer pieces using the router that’s already in your shop. You may need to tweak the edge guide a bit and certain operations will benefit from more specialized bits, but the benefit to your projects will be well […]

The post Video: Simple String Inlay with Your Router appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Festool Heaven: Which Festool Should You Buy First?

Highland Woodworking - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 8:00am

For this month’s issue of Festool Heaven, we asked Steve Johnson which Festool he would recommend for a friend if they had never owned a Festool product before. He said the question sounded strange at first, but after thinking about it awhile, he came up with a surprising answer.

Click here to read Steve’s recommendation

The post Festool Heaven: Which Festool Should You Buy First? appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

September spoons for sale

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 7:49am




I’ll be updating my workshop-teaching schedule soon with some Plymouth CRAFT classes and looking toward next year (we’ve started planning Greenwood Fest already!) In the meantime, I have a few spoons (and one bowl) for sale this time – if you’d like one, just leave a comment and we can take it from there; paypal or check is fine either way. Woods this time are birch, cherry & walnut. All carved with hatchet, knife and hook knife. Finished with food-grade flax oil. Prices include shipping in US. Elsewhere additional charge for shipping. Click the images to enlarge. Thanks for you interest, if you have questions just leave a comment or send an email.


Sept spoon 01; black birch.

L: 10 1/2″  W: 2 3/4″



Sept spoon 02; black birch,

L: 10 1/2″   W:  2 5/8″



Sept spoon 03; black birch

L:  10 3/4″  W:  2 1/2″


Sept spoon 04,

L: 12″   W: 2 7/8″



Sept spoon 05

L:  11 1/2″   W: 2 3/4″


Aug spoon 01 –

this one was my favorite from last time. Didn’t get picked. Might be the price tag…but this is as good a spoon as I can make. cherry, crook. This spoon blank left me with a very long, narrow bowl. Overall a long spoon. Great crook shape, I couldn’t resist.

L: 13 7/8″   W:  2 1/8″


Sept spoon 06

Walnut. I’ve been riving up some walnut for joined stools, and got some bits here & there to try for spoons. Radially split.

L:  10 1/2″  W:  2 3/4″


Sept spoon 07, walnut (see above)

L: 10 1/2″  W: 2 7/8″


Sept spoon 08; walnut

L: 10 1/2″  W: 3″


large cherry crook

The last of these over-sized cherry crooks.

L: 13″  W:  4″


The cherry bird bowl. I have more of these underway, but won’t get to them for months now – I have a lot of furniture work ahead of me. The bird bowls come from great curved crooks.

L: 15″  H: (at front) 7 1/4″


Festool USA – Opening Soon

MVFlaim Furnituremaker - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 7:49am


Festool will soon be offering reconditioned tools.

Completing Workbench Mortises (a semi-misadventure)

The Barn on White Run - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 5:17am

When I last left the oak Roubo bench 4+ years ago it was still quite  ways from being done (one of the great benefits of building a bench a la David Baron is that it can get done in a week).  The leg tenons were all cut, but only two of the dovetailed mortises and none of the rectangular mortises, so clearly a lot of drilling and chopping was in store.  There was nothing exceptional about the task or process other than it required flipping the top a couple of times to get the job done.  The last two dovetailed open mortises took about an hour to knock out.

Drilling and chopping the closed mortises went smoothly.  For three of the four.  And the fourth?  Grrrrr!  For some inexplicable reason I switched from a Forstner-style bit to a long auger bit for my drill, and it went astray.  Not just astray but bound tighter than a drum and would not move forward or backward (a theme that was not yet fully played out).  After a lot of fussing and fuming I was eventually forced to drive it through the other face using my sledge hammer.  Sheer brute force.  I was reminded of my late friend Mel Wachowiak’s quip, “With enough force you can pull he tail off a living cow.”  Or drive a 7/8 auger bit through an inch of solid oak.

This blew out a chunk of the face adjacent to the mortise, leaving me less cheery than you might expect, my anger being tempered only by the fact that all this damage took place on the underside of the slab. An hour later I had knitted together all the splintered wood and glued it back in place to leave overnight.  In the end it was a patience-expanding experience.

The good news is that the repaired place (epoxy and shavings filled) held up perfectly when chopping the mortise in that area.  The repair felt just like the adjacent wood and held a nice crisp corner with no chipping or fracture.

So now the mortises were all done and seemed to provide a nice snug fit, and I was looking forward to driving the legs home in the morning.

Oh, about that…

Woodworking Tips With Asa Christiana – 360w360 E.250

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 4:10am
Woodworking Tips With Asa Christiana – 360w360 E.250

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking Asa Christiana drops back in to talk about woodworking tips published in his book, “Build Stuff with Wood.” Topics include how to improve acid brushes to what are the best castors for shop carts. Plus, the the idea of moving woodworking beyond a solo event, and the benefits thereof are discussed.

Join 360 Woodworking every Thursday for a lively discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more).

Continue reading Woodworking Tips With Asa Christiana – 360w360 E.250 at 360 WoodWorking.

shipping box done....

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 09/21/2017 - 1:13am
Over the past few weeks I've been reading what I can about the art of hammering kinks out of saw plates. I am sending one out to be done and I have two unkinked beater saws that will become scraper stock. I am thinking of trying to kink them first so I can practice on them. From what I have seen and read, it doesn't appear to be rocket science requiring a PhD to do. I can probably with practice do it but I don't want to practice on my grandson's saw.

another after dinner outing
The glue had set up on the bottom so after dinner I  came down to the shop and screwed it. I removed the screws from the corners as they weren't needed anymore. The glue and screws on the bottom will hold the box sides in place.

replaced the screws with miller dowels
I split all four corners driving the screws in which was expected. I didn't predrill because I use spax screws which are pretty good for not needing a pilot hole. I still haven't found a screw that will drill into end grain without splitting it. With or without a pilot hole.  I forced some glue into the cracks and clamped them. This is where I started tonight in the shop.

foam insulation
This was the packing material that was used to ship my miter saw to me. I'm going to reuse it on my saw.

This piece of scrap is the same thickness as one side of the saw plate to the outside edge of the handle. This will keep the saw plate straight in shipping to and from.

I'll put a piece of foam on top of it when I ship it

sawing this is as easy as ripping a piece of paper
didn't even clog the teeth
the most important part
A couple of years ago I had shipped a saw out to Bad Axe to get sharpened. Mark told me to protect the horns on the handle. He said these often came to him broken.

sawed the proud off on the bandsaw
The box isn't a nice rectangle. It is wider at one end then the other to better fit the shape of the saw. This is the wide end.

ready to address and ship
I sanded all the edges and ran my fingers along them to make sure there weren't any catch points. I marked this side as the one to be opened.

The big storm we were supposed to get turned out to be the big bust. The forecast was for 3-5 inches of rain and 50 MPH plus winds wednesday night. When I went to work this morning it didn't even look like it had rained. And I saw no wind damage anywhere on the drive in to work. The next few days will be cloudy with off and on rain until sunny skies come back on saturday. What I went through is nothing compared to what the people in the south had to endure.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a milquetoast person?
answer - someone who is meek or timid

M&T Shop Building: Raising the Frame Day Three

The Mortise & Tenon Magazine Blog - Wed, 09/20/2017 - 7:43pm

Today began with finishing the bird's mouths for the rafters to seat into. Because the original roof system was damaged in a fire, Luke salvaged materials from other Vermont frames that weren’t going to be restored. Because the replacement ridge mortise layout was different than the original, the plates needed to be cut to match the ridge. While Mike and I cut the bird’s mouths, the rest of the team made preparations for the plates’ raising including installing a temporary deck on the second floor joists.

Once the rafter joinery was complete, Matt lifted the first plate up to the posts and we began guiding it down into place while holding the six braces in position. Due to some unexpected wracking of the frame, the plate wouldn’t quite seat onto the last post. Some careful help from diagonal come alongs brought everything into alignment. With a few wraps on the plate, it seated securely onto the tenons.

The second plate was a tad trickier because of some severe twist that developed over its lifetime. Luke shimmed and compensated for this in the shop restoration but during assembly it needed further help to seat properly. More come alongs and sledge blows (onto sacrificial scrap wood) and the second plate was successfully installed.

The rest of the afternoon was spent final shaping and installing the pegs in the rest of the frame that hadn’t yet been pegged. John installed the largest pegs (the original 1-3/8” size) into the plate but the rest of us used 1-1/4”, 1”, and 3/4" for other parts. Eden even got to drive a few of the lower pegs.

Tomorrow we’ll finish the last few pegs and then turn to the ridge and rafters. The incredible five-sided pine ridge and cedar round rafters were salvaged from barns not far from the original frame and are near identical matches. In fact, one of the original rafters was salvageable and is being put back into the frame. We expect to complete the frame tomorrow and begin sheathing the roof. The sheathing process will likely extend into Friday morning.

- Joshua


Categories: Hand Tools

Correct Hide Glue Ratio Mix

Journeyman's Journal - Wed, 09/20/2017 - 7:09pm

I see innumerable recordings on YouTube innocently giving out the wrong information on the ratio mix of water to granules.  Why are there so many mislead? My own particular musings to this is were all gaining from each other. In the event that one source puts out deluding data, at that point it spreads like an infection tainting thousands consistently. My issue with some YouTube recordings is the mundane, relentless, unconcerned, easygoing, detached demeanor they take towards the art.

For this situation I will just allude to shroud stick. You hear words like “oh I don’t measure how much water I use, I just pour it in and cover the surface.” That’s not by any stretch of the imagination how it goes and the reason they say this, is they don’t realize what is the right proportion blend.

On the off chance that you’ve perused my magazines you will see antiquated articles revealing to you the right proportion blend is 1:1. It doesn’t state what looks great to the eye. They additionally don’t take this nonchalant disposition towards the art where I’ve heard some say on the off chance that if it looks square then it must be square. I believe this attitude is just an exterior facade to influence the viewer into believing or at least make it appear that hand tools are a no fuss operation.  Rip it and tidy up the edge with a couple of swipes of your plane and Bob’s you uncle. This is implausible, unrealistic woodworking.

Today is my roster day off so I don’t want to spend too much time on this as I’m under the gun to go back to the build for the third issue. So I’ll simply demonstrate to you a progression of photograph’s and afterward you’ll realise what the right proportion blend resembles.


Lo-and-behold I didn’t take a photo of it mixed! Unbelievable.  I’ll try to describe it to you, but if you mix 1:1 you’ll see what it looks like.  The water level should just cover the surface of the granules. Not flood it or drown it but just cover it.

What’s additionally imperative is the nature of the granules and I’m referring to its quality.  I purchase mine from Patrick Edwards; he gets it from Milligan and Higgins. I don’t know Behlen items whether they utilize Milligans and Higgins and simply slap their own particular mark on it or on the off chance that they make their own. In any case, Milligans and Higgins is a trusted and experience organisation and if it’s sufficient for Patrick an incredible Marqueter with 40+ years of knowledge and experience at that point it’s adequate for me.

_DSC1701_DSC1702 If I’ve offended someone in this post then toughen up.


Categories: Hand Tools

Frankly, These Guys Are Kicking A@$

360 WoodWorking - Wed, 09/20/2017 - 4:47pm
Frankly, These Guys Are Kicking A@$

This week, beginning on Monday, I have a couple of woodworkers in the shop building Pembroke tables. Frankly, these guys are kicking A@$. It’s been only three days and the Franks – that’s right, both guys in the class are named Frank – are owning these tables.

As you can see in the photo, the tables, complete with oval drop-leaf tops and fly rails with knuckle joints, are all but finished. Because they plan to breakdown the tables to transport them back to their shops, they decided to build without assembly, which is why the aprons are not yet installed.

Continue reading Frankly, These Guys Are Kicking A@$ at 360 WoodWorking.

Virtuosity At A Whole Different Scale

The Barn on White Run - Wed, 09/20/2017 - 4:38pm

My acquaintance Bill Robertson, maker of astonishing miniatures, is featured in a new TED Talk.  Watch, and prepare to be astounded.


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