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It’s been months since I posted here, the longest gap since I started my blog. I have continued working on the rabbit hutch as time allowed, but after looking back at some of my earlier posts, realized that I have been on this project for over six months now. Yikes! I have continued to photograph the build as I progressed, but I haven’t had time until recently to edit photos or try to put them into a blog post format. I now have about five posts in the pipeline, so hopefully you should see more from me soon.
I doubt that any of you can remember what I had already done (I had to go look at my earlier posts myself), so I will add links for you to re-acquaint yourselves if you so wish.
- The Rabbit Hutch – Part 1 (Front frames and doors)
- The Rabbit Hutch – Part 2 (Sidewalls)
- The Rabbit Hutch – Part 3 (Carcase assembly)
The last post ended with the main carcase of the rabbit hutch glued up into a single unit. It’s nice to see the plan coming together. The hutch is divided into an upper and a lower section. Both of these sections will have a wire floor, and the wire will need to be supported by a wooden frame. So, the two floor frames will be the next part of my build.
Generally, I’ve stop taking photographs of me milling stock. It’s the same in every post so I’ll just skip to the end result. I wanted frames that are both light and strong, and Douglas Fir will be just fine for that.
I could have just assembled these with pocket hole screws, but why not practice good furniture building skills while making this project? Bring on the dovetails.
The top frame needs to have an open section for a ramp to connect the two levels of the hutch. The bottom frame is a simpler design, so I’ll start with that one.
With all four corners fitted, I had to decide where to place the cross rails.
After being left for a day to dry, I flushed all the joints.
Now for that upper frame. This one will be a little bit trickier.
Cutting the pins proved to be a bit of a challenge. They are on the end of pieces that are five feet long. There’s no easy way to do this without having a 60″ hight on the workbench top.
The layout of the upper frame was different and I ended up needing three cross rails instead of two. I chose my design and then cut all the mortise and tenons.
It is much easier to paint all of these sub-assemblies now rather than at the end. Also, this allows me to paint surfaces that will be covered or inaccessible later. I want all wooden surfaces of this project to be painted, with no bare wood exposed anywhere. I did not use a timber known for rot resistance as it was really expensive. Several coats of good paint should add some rot resistance and longevity to the project.
The frames will screw into the main carcase of the hutch from inside. I added some countersunk pilot holes before adding the wire to make the job a little easier later.
In the next post, I’ll install the two floor frames and do some more work on the hutch carcase.
– Jonathan White