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Accidental Woodworker

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The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2793125
Updated: 1 hour 30 min ago

checked all my plow planes.......

Sat, 01/13/2018 - 12:01am
Houston something is screwy on planet earth. I am having a problem with my plow planes, please advise.  While I waited for Houston to respond, I checked all my plow planes to see how they stacked up. I was a wee bit shocked at what I found. My plows are all metal and I was expecting them to behave a lot better than what I saw.

I did 3 checks on each plane. #1 was checking the fence rods for wiggle. All had some with the Record 044 being the worse and the Lee Valley being the best closely followed by the Record 043. Check #2 was looking at the parallelism between the skates and the fences. Good point here as all planes passed this. The final check, #3, was did the fence stay parallel to the skate at a distance of a 1/2"?

Record 044
 This plow is dead nuts parallel as were all the other planes when checked for this.

used a 1/2" set up bar
I used the setup bar to set the fence at the toe and tighten down on both fence rod screws.

then I checked the heel of the fence
Doesn't fit and it isn't even close. It's beyond measuring it in frog hairs it's off so much.

almost an 1/8" off from the toe
This plow was the absolute worse of the lot for parallel away from the skate. I tried a couple of other settings and they were all off about an 1/8 inch toe to heel. At least the error appeared to be consistent.

setting the heel to a 1/2" on the 044
This was not that easy to do considering it is only an 1/8". It took a fair bit of force to push the fence at the heel end away from the skate out to a 1/2". The next check will be seeing if once I have it set parallel, will it hold it as I plow multiple grooves. Maybe the fence slipping is why I am getting my gap on the second groove? Checking the fence/skate measurement is not something I usually do as I plow.

Record 043
 I got the front set to a 1/2" and tightened the fence rod screws.

it's wider at the heel
It is probably a couple pieces of paper thickness of being off. Much better than it's bigger brother the 044.

I am aware of the fence slipping along with the depth shoe slipping too. Checking the screws between grooves is something I do out of habit with this plane. I haven't had any problems with the grooves as long as I keep an eye on the fence rod screws.

Lee Valley plow
Set the toe at a 1/2". The Lee Valley was the easiest one to set the 1/2" on.

not perfect, but the closest one
It is a slip fit on the toe and the heel but the heel is a frog hair or two wider.

Record 405
This plow has a rosewood fence and I wasn't too sure how flat and straight it was. It laid up flat on the skate and I didn't see any light between them. This plane is a PITA to nudge a frog hair in or out. It took me a while to get the 1/2" dialed in on the toe.

it's looser at the heel
When I first got this plane I almost put it away until I figured out that the fence was moving on me in use. The toe to heel isn't to to bad but there is a difference. In past use with this plane I haven't seen any problems with the grooves. Again, that was only as long as I kept checking the screws were tight and hadn't slipped.

The Lee Valley is #1. Easy to set up and use and the fence maintains parallel to skate the best. None of the planes were perfect with the parallelism but it was the closest one to it. I just got this one so I don't have a lot of time on the pond with it.

The Record 043 comes in second. It can be a bit finicky setting the iron but once it is set, it seems to hold without any further checking. All planes didn't have any problems with the iron slipping in use. I like this for plowing grooves on small stock. It shines doing that. The fence on this plane slips too but not as badly as the others.

The Record 405 is in third place. It is a multi-purpose plane and I bought it mostly to make grooves. This was my first 'plow plane' and it served me well. I stumbled and learned a lot using this plane. It hasn't gotten a lot of use since my acquisitions of other plow planes.

The Record 044 is dead last. I realized today that Paul Sellers uses a Record 044 in his woodworking videos. I doubt that he has the problems I am having. I tend to be brain dead about these things and my stubborn streak had already kicked in. It will be a while before I give up trying to figure out how to get this plane to perform as advertised. If I can't, I'll buy a Lee Valley for my grandson and pass this one on.

new bottom stock
This is a new piece of 1/8" plywood 12 x 24 inches. The length of the box is almost 12" and I will allow for an strong 16th overhang on all four sides.

lots of wiggle room on this bottom
fitting the top before I glue the bottom on
planing the rabbets
ubiquitous blurry pic
What the blurry pic is trying to show is a thin web of wood at the bottom of the groove.

shallow rabbet on the bottom of the lid for that thin web
fitting the lid
I took my time here because I need a good fit due to the width/depth of the groove and the thin chunk of wood at the top. It was plane two strokes and check the fit. It took a lot of dance steps to reach the back and get my ticket punched.

I think I got the side to side
it is tight to the top of the groove on both sides
I didn't plane anymore on the bottom rabbets. All the plane and fit was done on the tops of the rabbets.

wee bit past half way
The right side has clearance but the left is still tight to the top of the groove. I planed the back of the rabbet on the left one until the lid fit.

fitted - slides in and out easily
I did something different with this box. I tried to keep the rabbet as small as I could. I am happy with the left one but the right one I had to plane it a bit wider.

wooden astragal plane fit in the rabbet
laid out and chopped my thumb catch
big gap here
I am entertaining gluing a filler in here.

the pencil line is the thickness of the filler
I may have a few scraps on the deck that I can use for this. I'll pick them up and check them tomorrow.

bottom glued on and cooking
When I got home form work today it was 58°F (14.4°C). It is supposed to dip down to freezing overnight and by then the glue should have cooked . The furnace kicking it will be the icing on the cake.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the most binge watched TV show is the Game of Thrones?

working on the 044.......

Fri, 01/12/2018 - 12:35am
The plan was to pick up the 044 this weekend and figure out what I am doing wrong then. Thinking about what may have been the problem kept echoing in the brain bucket all day. When I got home tonight I tried a couple of things that were quick and easy to do. I'm still scratching my bald spot on a couple and I might have figured out a couple. Only long term results will  prove them right.

the 78 box
I am hoping that I have enough meat left to hold and keep the lid in place.

the Record 044 box
A 1/4" groove with roughly the same amount of meat left.

It's as tight as I can get it
This is the way I left it from yesterday. I went to tighten it expecting it to be loose and it wasn't. I can't pull the rod back out but at the same time I can move it L/R.

rod pushed away - see the gap
rod pushed the opposite way - gap on the opposite side now
size of the rods are the same
hole is about .01 larger
I am not a machinist so I don't know if this would be an allowable tolerance. The other arm isn't nearly as wiggly nor does it have the same gaps. Maybe this is a deliberate machining step?

movement in the far one and a lot less in the near one
making sure the fence is parallel to the skate
I assumed since this plow has two arms, that once the fence thumbscrews are tightened, it would be parallel. Not so with this plow. Repeated loosen and tighten cycles all yielded a taper with the high water mark at the toe and the low water at the heel.

no more wiggle in either arm
This surprised me. Even without the fence tightened down on the arms, there was no movement in the fence rods. Part of the machining design of the tool?

first groove started
I went L to R monitoring the fence contact with the edge. I'm still batting 1.000 on the first groove.

almost a 1/4"
a 32nd less in the middle
same at the end
I thought that this would be the opposite of what I got. Maybe I'm not correlating this in my mind the correct way.

groove run #2
Fence is off the edge. I didn't see this happening. I sensed it more that seeing it at first. I had a build up of shavings and when I cleared them I saw this.

the fence is still parallel to the skate
swapped out the rods
I am trying out the rods from the Record 405 in the Record 044. They measure the same and I have the same wiggle problem with them. But with the fence on, the wiggling is gone.

changing my hand position
This is how I've been holding my left hand on the plow. My forefinger resting on the fence, thumb on the fence thumb screw and remaining fingers wrapped around the rod. I am thinking that maybe when I come from the R going to the L that I am applying pressure and cocking the fence somehow.

new way of holding and applying pressure
This way doesn't feel as good as the other way but I am going to try it.

appears to be working better
Got the groove started L to R and I am still tight against the edge. It has been about here that I see a gap between the fence and the edge of the stock.

tight on the L
tight in the middle -ish area
 tight at the right and keeping the throat clear
I normally keep the shavings where they spill out. This time I've been keeping the throat clear so I can see if and when the fence goes off the edge. I plowed two more grooves and both came out good. I plowed both grooves without any problems. The fence stayed where it should have and my grooves were straight and square.

Two grooves don't mean I solved this but it is a start. Only repeated making of good grooves will tell me that.

flushed the pins/tails and plugged my holes
lid rough sawn to length and width
I'll sticker the lid and do the fitting and trimming tomorrow.

I knew I should have left the shop
I wasn't going to saw out the bottom but I tried to squeeze it in. I also tried to saw out the lid with almost no over hang this time. Sawing on the wrong side of the line removed what little wiggle room I had. I caught that half way through the cut. I'll try it again tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a full moon is ten times brighter than a half moon?

something is awry......

Thu, 01/11/2018 - 12:57am
Awry is the word to use in polite company for this problem. In my shop it was what the #@!(%&;**%$@!!%^(&;^##) is wrong with this plow plane? I used the Record 044 again today and the results were less than pleasing. I plowed the grooves by starting at the left end and working backwards. First groove was good but the second one went south on me.

groove #2
 Starting end of the groove on the second one. The outside wall is thin at this end.

right side end is thicker
Houston, we have a gap
Something escaped me here and I don't know what it was. There is a gap along the entire edge where as when I started this the fence was up tight on the edge. I thought I was tight against the edge L/R for at least the first couple of passes.

I can see a difference the outside walls - one is tapered and one is parallel
I can not get the fence up tight against the edge and have the skate in the bottom of the groove. The skate should be ride in the bottom of the groove up close against the inboard wall of the groove. With the skate where it belongs, the fence should be tight against the edge. Not here sports fans.

first thought was the skate or the fence isn't straight
A hair over 3/8ths at this end.

a 16th off on this end
The fence is not parallel to the skate. Now, the question is why isn't it parallel with the skate?

back rod is square
Both the skate and the fence are flat and straight along their entire lengths.

front rod is off square
I tried to make another groove in some scrap and ended up with crap. Try as I might, I couldn't keep the fence up against the edge as I plowed the groove going left to right. So I thought this was the problem but I'm not sure. My first groove in the box was spot on but the second one and the third practice one were both toast. Something went wrong after the first groove and before or during the second one.

When I checked the front rod again, I noticed that it was wobbling in the hole. I checked the screw securing it and it was a bit loose. I have had fence securing screws loosen on my other plow planes making similar looking grooves. I was a wee bit discouraged after this so I set the plow aside for now. I'll revisit this on the weekend and I'll check out my loose screw theory.

I fixed the grooves in the box on the tablesaw because I am not making a new side nor a new box. My groove is a lot wider than I wanted it but that is what it is. The top web is thinner than what I would do but in order to even out the grooves, that is what I ended up with.

I glued, squared the box, and set the box by the furnace to cook. It had just started to make steam so I at least lucked into that.

#4 parts plane
This cost me $30 and I have spent that and more just for an iron and a chipbreaker. I am taking a woodworking class in June and I'll need a smoother. I'll rehab this one for that trip. I feel better taking this rather than one my shop planes. If it gets lost, broken, or stolen, I'm only out a few dollars.

most #4 irons are about 8 inches long
Lots of blade left to sharpen on this iron.

badly pitted but mostly away from the edge
There is a little pitting along the edge of the back side of the iron at the bevel. I am hoping that I will be able to lap it out. If I can't, this iron is toast.

tote is cracked almost 360
still connected on this side
The Plane Collector uses gorilla glue for his tote and knobs repairs. I'll have to get some when I go to Lowes.

first time for everything
I've never had this stud come off in any of my previous plane rehabs. The brass adjuster knob is stuck on the stud and it looks like I'm in for some fun getting the knob off and the stud back on.

japanning looks to be close to 100%
There is one rust spot on the cross brace just in the front of the throat. Other than that it looks like some simple green and a good scrubbing will be all this needs.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know it takes 17 muscles to smile  (this muscle count depends upon your source, it goes from a low of 6 to a high of 62. 17 was about the average but no one knows the exact number)

we're in a heat wave.....

Tue, 01/09/2018 - 4:11pm
The weather is just ridiculous. We have gone from negative single digit temps to a toasty, 42°F (5.5°C) at 1700, according to my porch thermometer. The temps are supposed to rise with the highest temp coming on friday. It is a welcome respite and it gives my old furnace a chance to catch it's breath.

almost down to the last step
I sanded the left side removing the paint I got on it. I repeated it on the right side. I am doing this first to see if there is any touch up to be done after.

the edge I'm concerned about
I sanded this flat and I still see black at the edge and no light reflections. That is what I wanted to see.

this gets painted first
The area at the bottom near the flat is hard to see and paint when on the magnet. I held and painted it first and then put it on the magnet and finished it.

tricky areas done
The top part is easy to see what I am painting. I will sand the flats tomorrow to remove any errant paint and do the final check on the paint job for all the parts.

sawed and chopped the pins and tails
I had to trim  the pins on the #3 corner but the rest went together off the saw.

this long side is slightly high
This is high enough that is will stop the plane from turning the corner. I flushed this first with a block plane than used my 5 1/2 to do it 270. (there is no front part so I lose 90)

before I flush it
I want to make sure that this fits before I go any further.

there is much joy and rejoicing in Mudville
how it will be stowed
I will have to take off the fence rod, fence, and the depth stop to get this to fit in the box flat. Because of the space restrictions I have in Miles toolbox. I can only fit a flat, thin box in there so that is why I have to take it apart.

it was a continuous shavings until I picked it out of the plane
I flushed the top because I need that done so I can use those edges to plow the grooves. I'll do the bottom after it is glued it up and before I glue on the plywood bottom.

dropped the plane and bent the fence rod
I can see it bent here but when I tighten it down as much as I can, it's square to the plane body. Go figure on that. I'll have to buy another one and I'll buy a spare for just in case.

a wee bit of twist
The near right and the far left are high.

twist free
It was almost 1700 so I knocked off here. Tomorrow I want to get the grooves plowed and the box glued up. The nights are still cold with the furnace kicking here so I'll have a warm spot for the box to set up. If I have anytime left I'll work on the finishing the chamfer spokeshave. And I still have that #6 waiting to be sanded shiny too.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know the number of teeth in the baby set is only 20? The second adult set has 32.

back to the grind......

Tue, 01/09/2018 - 2:29am
First day back to work and it made me long for the day I retire. The past two weeks recharged my batteries and gave me a preview of my anticipated retirement. Back at work and I forgot that I can't access a lot of my  blog functions anymore and editing it is one. Another is answering comments. When I couldn't edit it I tried to do it on my phone which was incredibly frustrating.

My biggest problem with my blog is I can't type as fast as I think up the dribble. I tend to leave words out as my biggest omission. I did correct 2 mistakes with the blog on my phone but I stopped after that. I'll have to add proofing/editing to my morning routine before I leave for work.

shop distraction
I am looking forward to watching and learning from this DVD. Joshua said this video is how an all hand tool built table would have been done in the 19th century.

I love the way Jane packs her tools for shipping
bought a new jack plane
I don't need this but the price was too good to pass up. I already have a type 11 jack plane and this one is intended to be a parts plane.

the iron
It is clean and rust free on both sides. It has a good length that will give a few years of service. It has been sharpened and it is shiny.

chipbreaker is looking good too
interior of the plane
It is a little dirty and grungy looking but the japanning appears to be close to 100%. The tote and knob are drop dead gorgeous looking and defect free. The frog and the frog screws are rust free which is something I don't normally see. The only maybe problem I saw was that the lateral adjust is loose and flopping back and forth.

it's got a corrugated sole
I have noticed that for the most part that corrugated planes, regardless of the type or number, tend to sell for less than flat bottom sole planes. It doesn't matter what site I see them for sale on neither.

$8 for round nose 8" dividers
It was a bargain I couldn't pass up for being so cheap.

it's a Starretts to boot
it has a speed nut
One hell of a bargain for $8 I'd say. I wasn't expecting a speed nut.

my current #5 in front
One of the first parts I will swap out are the front knobs. I am not a fan of the tall knobs and most all of my other planes have low knobs.

road test yielded nice shavings
found my hard drive magnets

double sided taped them to this scrap
I think is going to work well
The magnets raise the wing up just enough so that I could paint right to the edges.

great tip from Gerry
The magnets were strong enough to hold these while I painted them. I will have to save this board because I'm sure that I'll use it again.

flushing the plywood bottom
done (?)
Three of the sides have some tear out that is still there even after planing them. Debating whether or not to put some shellac on this or put it in the lunch room as is. I'll wait and think on it.

sawing the proud off
bit proud on the bottom
Since this is on the bottom I am leaving it as it is. Both pieces are proud at the ends but it doesn't effect the integrity of the dolly.

put three screws in each half lap from the top
Made a countersink and ratcheted the screws home. I drove #6 x 1" screws and the ratchet just barely drove them into the countersink. The pilot hole was made with a birdcage awl. Next time I'll make a true pilot hole.

painted parts drying by the furnace
plane body has been done for a few days
If I hadn't found out about the magnet trick from Gerry, I would have hung the chamfer wings on coat hanges and painted them. That would have been a frog hair or two away from being a PITA.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that astronaut John Young (he died today) was the only NASA astronaut to have flown in the Gemini, Apollo, and Space Shuttle programs?

the cold has been brutal.......

Mon, 01/08/2018 - 1:04am
Two days ago is was 4°F (-15.5°C) at 0600. Yesterday it was zero degrees F (17.8°C) at 0730 and today it was -4°F (-20°C) at 0545. Tomorrow the forecasted temp signals a heat wave as it is supposed to zoom up to 35°F (1.7°C). It is also supposed to continue with high temps hitting 51°F (10.6°C) on friday. Let us keep thinking happy thoughts that we finally broke this cold wave.

my first loose tenon fix
two pieces of veneer
The fit was loose for my liking. The tenon wasn't self supporting but with the two pieces of veneer it is now.

the other loose tenon fix
These were the practice tenons that I sawed off the test piece and glued on here.

left the tenon jig setting from yesterday
 Sawed the cheeks on the tablesaw and the shoulders by hand.

figuring out the why
I usually plow by starting on the left and working backwards. But on short pieces I can go either way and I will sometimes start on the right and go to the left.

starting on the right
This is the ideal way to start plowing the groove. You have a lot of contact with the fence on the edge of the stock. As you go back the amount of the fence contact decreases some but you the skate riding in the groove to make up for that.

groove plowed left going backwards to the right
groove is parallel to the edge and square at the bottom
Using the plane this way is/was hiccup free for me.

starting at the right and going forward
There is maybe 20% of the plane fence registration on the edge of the stock this way. I have done it this way with my other plows and I haven't had any problems. This plow is a nice plane and the only knock I have with it is that it is a bit awkward to get a comfortable grip on it with left hand.

I got a double rabbet on the right
This is my third pass going right to left. That rabbet means the fence moved away from the edge of the stock somehow.

that is what I did
I noticed a gap when I started the plow forward but only after a couple of inches. The awkward grip bit me on the arse here. It will work and perform but you have to pay attention and keep the fence up tight against the edge of the stock when plowing the groove.

my deep, right to left groove
The very top of the right side has a bit fuzzy crap but the groove is good other than that.

the exit end
it is very easy to get a gap here
the more fence you have in contact with the edge the better
Another problem is if you do plow with the fence off the edge, the groove you plow is what the skate follows. It is difficult to correct an errant groove like this. So although you can plow going right to left, it is advisable to start on the left and go backwards. Once you have a groove end to end for the skate to ride in, you can then take full length plows.

becoming my two favorite squares
especially the 3 incher
I used to use these 4" Starrett squares almost all the time. I have the left one set on 16ths, and the right one on 8ths.  I like the extra size of the old 3 inch square's blade for resting on the stock.

flushing the top and bottom of the 78 box
groove is high on this side
I didn't check the plow plane aligned with the top to the front. I kept it at the setting from plowing the right side groove.

the right side one is a 32nd
got one gap to fill
This is from the replacement side I had to make over.

I have to full these holes
This is a trade off situation. I don't like small half pins and I don't like big ones neither so that comes into play here too. In order to not clip the tail, I would have to do a blind groove on one end on each side.I could do a mitered dovetail corner but these sides are not that wide and I'm not sure there is enough meat there for that and the other dovetails. I opted to plow it straight through and plug it.

sawed a shim and glued it in place
Removed the proud with the chisel.

plugging the hole
Starts with a small rived piece of the same stock as the hole is. I make it large enough to hold so I can shape it with a chisel.

shape and fit until it fills the hole
make sure it doesn't stick into the interior groove past the back
saw off most of it
flush it with a chisel
saw it this way and the remainder is L shaped
small piece of waste this way
I would prefer to have the top ply grain running in the long direction of the box but I didn't like that option - pic above. For a small box, having it run side to side won't stop the sun from rising tomorrow.

edge left by the cross grain cut
rip cut with the top and bottom ply
The fuzzies are on the bottom ply sawn through. For some reason I find this interesting that the rip cut looks like a cross cut.

the box shrunk on me
I checked the measurements I wrote down against the box and they match. This box is a 1/2" too short in the length. The width is okay but that is a moot point.

planing the lid to fit
What is nice about this plane is it will do rabbets and can also be used as a bench plane. I am fitting the lid to the box and the side to side is too tight. I can use the same plane to trim a bit off the edges.

Record 405
My beading woodies wouldn't work here. I checked them first and had to do them with the 405.The action wasn't the same. The wooden beaders are nicer to use and leave a better looking bead.

I got the lid fitted after a doing a whole lot of dance steps with it. I had to make 4 rabbets on it. Two for the groove and two more to allow for the groove being above the top of the front. There was also a small amount of twist between the two sides that I had balance. I had to make the back third of the groove rabbets tapered so the lid would slide in and out.

flushing the corners on the chisel cabinet dolly
I am going to make the cabinet out of plywood because I plan on using the sides and the back to hang tools on. With plywood I can screw where ever I choose.

cleaning and flushing the joints
There wasn't a lot to do here because the joints came out fitting well.

sometimes you get lucky
These two were from the first dolly that went south on me. They fit perfectly between the long sides on the shoulders for a very nice snug fit. Maybe I should go and buy a lottery ticket?

sawed out for the half laps
blurry router plane pic
Removed the bulk of the waste with a chisel. Used the router plane to get the 4 half laps to the same depth.

glued and clamped the half laps
I am liking this ratcheting screwdriver more than the battery drill. I used sheet metal screws to attach the casters to the dolly. This will reside by furnace until tomorrow.

no measuring this time
I had 3 scraps big enough for a new box but I had to rip all of them to the same width. The front and back are a 16th thicker than the sides. That isn't a problem, it's the height of the box that matters to me. With the height of this box I'll be able to fit it in Miles's toolbox.

tails laid out
I'll sticker this and start the dovetailing tomorrow.

I'll give this box away at work
I want to finish the rehab of the chamfer spokeshave
I got a tip from Gerry about holding parts with a magnet. That will help with this so I can paint it. I have been kicking around a few ideas about epoxying magnets to a stick but I have to find my hard drive magnets. I don't remember where I hid them in the shop. The wings are ready to put paint on this side.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know President Calvin Coolidge had an electric horse installed in his bedroom at the White House?

good saturday output.......

Sun, 01/07/2018 - 2:53am
I spent most of the day in the shop. It's been a long time since I have gone from 0600 to 1700 with just a break for lunch. I got a few things done, made a few mistakes (part of the learning curve) but I didn't go postal. It was something that I don't have a lot of experience doing. In hindsight maybe I should have waited and practiced on scraps first. But I've always been a balls to the wall kind of guy who isn't afraid to try something.

Today's post is pic heavy so grab some popcorn and enjoy the slide show.

Record 044 box almost done
5 coats of shellac on with one more to go.

leaving the saw till box as is
I won't be painting or shellacing the inside edges.

bought new latches
lightly clamped in the middle to keep it closed
spacers to position the keepers R/L
used my Stanley driver - worked great on these smaller screws
lid needs a chain fall
this was a pleasant surprise
This worked driving the two slotted screws without any hiccups at all. I was expecting the driver to fall out of the slot in the screw and dance all over the box.That didn't happen and it drove the screws all the way without falling out or having me reposition it.

guide for setting the handles
This box needed something to help pick it up. The top is only 6mm plywood so that is too thin for a handle. One handle on each side will do the trick. I just eyeballed the center of the handle with the jig.

I'll get used to seeing the clean inside edges
same spacers used for the square till box
a handle isn't carved in stone yet
I'm not putting one on as of now. This box is small and relatively easy to pick up and move without one.

last step - making a finger recess to help pull this off the magnets
inside look
I am still looking to get a 4" Starrett square but I am calling this done for now.

The home for his toolboxes for now (this is temporary)
chopping the pins on the 78 box
pretty good fit off the saw
X marks where the groove goes
Houston, I have a problem
The first groove went off without a hitch. The second is total crappola. It looks like I did it blindfolded and with one hand tied behind my back.

the fix - glue in a patch and run the groove again
planing the patch to fit
good fit - glued it and set it by the furnace
no more blue shop towels
Most of my 'towel' needs in the shop involve wiping up or off something. I don't need the expensive blue shop towels for that. Out with the blue and in with the white.

cheapest multi pack towels at Wally World
I paid a couple of dollars more for 8 of these over 2 blue shop towels.

time to fix this
My 2nd paper towel holder and it is hard to remove the dowel when it comes time to change the roll. I've been tolerant of it because I have to change it infrequently. 

drill a 5/16" hole in the blind hole    the left hole is a through one

tie off a short 5/16" dowel by the hole
When it comes time to change the roll, I will stick this dowel in the hole and that will push the paper towel rod out so I can grab and remove it.

had chinese for lunch and this has set up enough
the same thing happened again
I am and did do something wrong. After thinking about it for a while it came to me when I was writing this post. The grooves I did without any hiccups (044 box), I started plowing the groove at the left end and worked backwards. The two grooves I screwed up and got garbage with, I started at the right end and worked toward the other end. Going from the left end to the right end gives a place for the whole skate to ride against. Starting at the right end and going to left end, the skate doesn't have much of the edge to ride against.

This groove is toast, again, and will have to be shit canned. I can't save this and I'll have to make another side or a whole new box. I tried making a new side first.

I had two extra pieces the same width as this one
squared the ends and got the length
it is easier marking the tails off of the pins
I don't think this is going to change me from being a tails first dovetailer.

I had to label my waste
This is the opposite of the way I do dovetails. So to avoid a bit of crying, I labeled the waste which I normally don't do.

good fit here off the saw
No particular problems sawing the tails off of the pins. This way you have to follow your lines. With tails first you don't.

this one is a bit tight and I had to trim the pins
had the problem here again
I didn't realize at the time I was doing this wrong. I had a hard time keeping the fence up against the edge and the skate riding where it should. I have 4 plow planes and this is the only one I've seen or had this hiccup with. Albeit, I don't have a lot of time on the pond with it and I'll have to remember this for when I show Miles how to use this.

haste makes waste
Not starting at the far end was mistake #1. Mistake #2 was me not flushing the bottom before I ran the groove. Lucky for me that the top was almost dead flush on the corners.

warming up the hide glue
glued up and it's square  - didn't need a clamp on this
Record 044 box is done
I put this away in Miles's toolbox. I'll be using this again and I'll also be putting it in the queue to be cleaned up and made pretty.

making the roll around dolly for the chisel cabinet
stock shot to length and the ends squared
marked the half laps so damaged areas would be removed
everything laid out
trying to split out all the half laps
this turned out to be the wrong way to do this
I should have come down from the top with the grain. At least I had stopped this in time when I saw the split running into the knife line. Won one and lost one.

the bottom one is the only good one
The bottom one has been cleaned with a router to the knife line. The others need help and 2nd one from the top was given last rites.

it seems I wasn't doing as good as I thought
On one side I was away from the knife line and the other I ran past it. Out of 8 half laps only one is ok with the rest beyond salvage. What looked kind of flat and straight when splitting turned out to look like ten miles of a bad dirt road.

switched to machines
Whacked out a set of bridle joints on the tablesaw. Sawed the cheeks on the tenons.

a little too snug
good fit after some work with the tenon rasp and chisel
tenon is too thin
I turned the R/L knob on the tenon jig the wrong way and made one leg with the tenons too thin. I was going to glue two waste cheeks on but they are 1/8" too short. I sawed the practice tenon cheeks off and glued them on. It will have to be tomorrow before the dolly is done.

accidental woodworker

Trivia corner
Did you know that the ancient Egyptians invented the toothbrush?

this storm was in bad mood......

Sat, 01/06/2018 - 2:42am
Back about 5 years ago(?) the amount of snow I have now is what I got over a one week period. We had 3 snowfalls separated by a few days that dumped a mountain of snow. Yesterday I think we got all of that in one shot.

I got up at 0500, edited the blog and posted it, and then headed outside to shovel. Yesterday I tried twice to shovel to stay ahead of it but the wind drove me back inside both times. This AM the wind was wimpy compared to the gusts yesterday. I also had two surprises when I went outside. Both the car and truck were almost bare and someone had plowed my driveway and part of  the front walk. In spite of my good fortune, it still took me over two hours before I was done shoveling.

that's all the snow that was on my wife's car
my truck had snow on the passenger windows only
See the mountain on the right side? Almost all of that came from the end of the driveway. A third of my driveway end was blocked (by the snowplowing) and I had to dig that out and deposit it along here. I burned up a few calories this AM.

front walk and the end of my driveway
I tried not to pile the snow up at the end because it makes it hard to see on coming traffic. I had to complete the sidewalk from the front door down to the far end of my property. Manny had plowed from here to the front door and the driveway up to my truck which saved me a lot of hours. I also dug out the fire hydrant that is right at the end of my property. The last bit of shoveling was to dig an access from the road through the snow so UPS etc can get to my front door.

There is more snow forecasted for monday just in time for the morning commute. Which incidentally will be my first day back at work. I didn't get to the shop until after lunch. All that shoveling made my hands feel funny and I could barely hold my coffee cup. Arthritis sucks big time.

it's the record 044 box
 Flushing the top and bottom (one at a time). Small blockplane evens the corners and the 5 1/2 flushed it 360.

bottom had some twist
The top was ok.

using Miles's 78 to make the rabbets
I used Miles's dovetail saw, the 044 to make grooves, and now the 78 is batting next to make rabbets. I should have used his bench planes too and made it 100% made with his tools.

first rabbet isn't too good
First hiccup was me thinking using this 78 was a no brainer. There is a learning curve with every tool regardless of having other tools that do the same thing. I noticed that the 78 was running away from the shoulder. When I looked at it the corner it was rounded and stepped. I knew what the cause was so I checked it.

the iron shifted on me
In order to get a clean 90° bottom corner, the iron has to be slightly proud on this side. I had done that but the iron moved as I use it. Which means I didn't tighten down the lever cap enough to hold the iron in place.

used this rabbet to run a knife line on the opposite side
I ran a knife line because on the other side I'm running against the grain. The knife line will help with tear out.

shavings look nice but.....
I am definitely at the bottom on the up hill side of the learning curve. I checked my depth and I had to go another 1/8 inch plus. The rabbet here looked ok but that changed as I went deeper in depth.

I usually tilt outboard, not inboard
The other end looks as bad so I was consistent in the tilting. The other problem is I went too deep, even discounting the low point of the tilt. This lid is toast. And my first rabbets with the 78 are toast too.

the other rabbet
This end of the rabbet is high and the blurry pic I took of the other end was low. I made me a tapered rabbet with the 78.

iron moved again on me
Not all bad news using the 78. The iron is sharp and worked great making a boatload of fluffy shavings. I need to play with the setting the iron and how to keep it secured once I set it. It is a nice plane and I'm sure that I'll master it with a few more road tests. I kind of have to because it's me that will be showing Miles's how to use it.

Record 044 box
This confirms it. I have been chopping a bit ham fisted on the first round moving the knife wall.

sawing out the 1/8" plywood bottom
lots of curly Qs'
On the crosscut I got some fuzzies but nothing like I got from the rip cut.

glued the plywood bottom on
new lid stock being checked for twist
using the 10 1/2 to make the rabbets
I naturally grabbed this and it made me think. I like using this to make rabbets and I do pretty good with it too. I think I'm so comfortable with this because it is very close in use to my other bench planes.

flat, straight, and  almost square
bullnose work
Used this to make the rabbets square and planed the inside shoulder to the pencil line.

both rabbets are square end to end
plywood bottom flushed 360
lid fits and slides in and out easily
The lid is 3 frog hairs high of the back. I planed it until it was flush with the top back.

lid sawn to length
layout for the thumb catch
I usually miss doing this at this point. Here it easy to get my center, the two outside edges, and the distance from the front.

beveled the front edge
The bevel makes running square lines from the front edge a bit dicey.

astragal didn't work
the rabbet isn't deep enough
This is the first box I made like this where I have had this problem. It didn't occur to me to check it first. I thought I was ok based on all the boxes I've done in the past but there is always one small detail waiting to bite you on the arse.

LN beading plane
The smallest bead in the set is too large. I was hoping that I could scratch a bead over the one I tried to make with the wooden plane.

found a beading iron that may work
doesn't fit in the Lee Valley plow
The iron is too long for this plane.

I used the Record 405 to run the 5/16" beading iron over the partial profile I had. It doesn't look pretty but I am going with it. There are some extra rabbets but I was able to make a bead on each side. Missed getting any pics of that action.

You have to look close to see the boo-boo
thumb catch done
rounded the front edge of the lid groove
I like the rounded look here over leaving it squared off. I think it compliments the bevel I planed on the front edge of the lid and the bead on the lid rabbets.

screw for the depth shoe
I have to remove this in order to get everything to fit in the box.

everything fits and the lid closes
I had to remove the depth shoe screw so the iron box would fit.

came up with a different interior arrangement
I didn't want to remove the screw on the depth shoe so I can fit everything in the box. I don't mind taking the fence and fence rods off but a thumbscrew is too easy to lose.

the change
This raises the plane body up and holds it flat and horizontal in the box. I can leave the screw on the depth shoe and fit the iron box on top of the plane body.

the both of them will fit in Miles's toolbox
The 044 box is on the bottom and the sides for the 78 box are on top of it. I will have just enough room for both of these in the bottom with maybe a frog hair of clearance. The Stanley router plane box is on the far right.

Stanley #135
This came in today with the afternoon mail. Because of the storm I was not expecting this for a few more days. Note to self - ask Bob D before I buy another tool I've never seen before.

This is not what I thought it would be. Three flat blade drivers so this was made before Henry Ford made phillips or cross point screws.

the adapter fits it!
I thought it was a big as the one on the left
would not drive this #8 x 1 1/4 screw without a pilot hole
even the Craftsman didn't like doing it
It did it but I had to use two hands on the driver in order to screw it in.

road test #2
Tried doing it with a pilot hole. It helped but it wouldn't drive it anymore than a 1/3 of the way. I tried it with wax on the threads to help on the second try but only managed to get it 1/2 way down.

had to use the big driver to set the screw and to remove it

evolution of my box making
Rabbeted joints with the plywood bottom held in grooves.  I made boxes like this for over 30 years.

my attempt at a sliding lid box
This box is made of plywood so my goal was to do something with the front end to hide the plywood plies. I've made a lot of boxes (solid wood ones too) like this with varying degrees of ugly lid ends.

the bottom
Plywood makes a good box but hiding the plies can involve a lot of tedious work applying solid wood banding to hide it.

What's next?
Boxes in this style have been found in 2200 year old Roman ship wrecks. That goes a long way as a testament to it's viability.  I haven't seen anything better than this and I look at every box I see.

two coats of shellac
I'll steel wool these tomorrow and put on two more coats. Then the Record 044 box will be done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the state song of Kansas is 'Home on the Range'?

no humming, no buzzing......

Fri, 01/05/2018 - 2:38am
Where I live it gets cold in the fall and winter months. Fluorescent lights do not like cold weather and the cheap ones like it even less. When it gets cold, fluorescents like to buzz like a swarm of angry bees. And when they don't buzz, they have an annoying hum. This was my constant companion in the shop for the longest of times. Even though I've lost a lot of my hearing, those two sounds I had no problems hearing. But no more.

Last year I came across some 4 foot double LED shop lights for cheap ($15?). I bought enough of them to replace every single buzzing/humming fluorescent I had in the shop. I saved two fluorescents to put in the boneyard but I shitcanned them. Ocean State Job Lot is still selling these LED lights and I'll buy two more for the boneyard.

 Do you know what I hear now? Nothing but the radio. It is wonderful to go to the shop, turn the lights on, and not hear that fluorescent dance music anymore. Not only is the noise gone, the light output has increased a bazillion percent. When I first put them in I was amazed with the brilliance of the light.I wasn't sure that I would get accustomed to but I did in a very short time - less than 2-3 days. If you are on the fence with LED lights, hop off and trot off to the store and buy some.

Oh and I forgot to say that the LED lights are instant on. Fluorescent lights also tend to lag coming on and have a diminished output in cold weather.

sharpened the 1/4" iron
 I'll be using this iron to make the groove for the sliding lid so it batted lead off this morning.

a Eureka moment
I didn't fully understand what this was for until today. I had been getting annoyed with it mostly because the iron wouldn't fit in the plane. The screw is used to keep the iron up tight against the plane. The shoulder of the screw lines up against the edge of the iron keeping it oriented at this bevel angle and the lever cap gizmo secures the iron.  I had been doing this without realizing that is what I had to do.  This screw will come out wide enough to put the 9/16" iron in it. The slotted knurled part of the screw is captive and will only extend out to accept the width of the largest iron.

the Lee Valley plow plane
The Lee Valley plane has the same feature but it is a bit simpler in design. I was having the same annoyance with this plane too.

finishing the big plumb bob
Both are reading about the same amount of being out of level. The black line is centered and squared on this edge.

the up/down plumb is dead on
The string is barely touching the front edge of the standoff.

got this R/L plumb fixed
I had to play with wedge on the right side to get this plumb in the vise. Now I still have to find a home for it.

second coat on the back of the chamfer wings
These are taking a bit of time to complete. I have no way to hold them so I can paint both sides at the same time. So I'm painting this side first and then I'll do the other side. I got the second and final coat of paint on the plane body. Tomorrow I'll work on shining up the non painted areas.

the storm came
The snow started coming down in earnest around 0830 and didn't stop until about 1600. The wind is blowing in some pretty powerful gusts causing a whiteout. I can barely make out my neighbor's house across the street out of my front window. I tried to shovel a couple of times but the wind won both times. I'll try to do it tomorrow when it is supposed be less windy.

screwed the lids back on
See a white line. It is not giving me a smiley face.

the front of the saw till box
it is clean looking
I purposely kept these edges paint and shellac free. The reason I did that was because once the lid is latched, it could fuse the paint or shellac together. I don't like the white line and I don't want to risk fusing the two halves together so will have to make decision on this. It's nice that I have lots of time available to do that.

same problem with the square till box
sawing tails on sliding lid box
I don't know which tool goes in this box but it doesn't matter. I can figure that out after it's made. Since I am only doing one box, I am sawing in the vise. The bench is crowded and I didn't want to clear it off to set the moxon on it. It made me think of making another bench just for doing joinery work. A bench where the moxon would always be ready to go. I'll have to search for hole in the shop that I can put it in.

this side is a wee bit tight
The other side went on off the saw. This side I had to trim the pins that had bruising on them.

seated almost
I still have to plow the grooves for the lid. I don't like banging the corners together and taking them apart any more than I have to. I'll save the final dry fit until after the grooves are done.

it still amazes me
After all the dovetails I've done, this step still gets my motor running in the red line. This is something I have done on my own. The tools I used were extensions of me that did my bidding and this was the result.

no bottom groove
I am gluing the plywood bottom onto the bottom of the box. Not my preferred way of doing this but it will save me about 5/8" on the height of the box. I need to minimize that on both the 78 and 044 boxes.

it's square
The inside of the box is where the lid goes and it has to be square. I didn't check the outside because it doesn't matter. The back dovetails are tight and staying put. The front has one big tail and I needed to use the clamp to fully close it up.

double, triple checked it with a bigger square  - glued it with hide glue and put it by the furnace
the Record 044 iron box
This iron holder box I put 5 coats of shellac on because of the figured walnut. This side on the top left has an oval patch that I missed when I made this.

board for the lid
I noticed a crack on the end of board and sawed it off. I banged it on the bench and this happened. I didn't see anymore evidence of a crack on the face or the end grain so I sawed out the lid.

banged the lid on the bench
Nothing broke or split so I sawed it off at the right spot.

had to remove some twist
I had to plane out a cup and a hump too. I am not that concerned with this being exactly a 1/2" thick as it is a lid for a tool box.

reference edges and one square corner
I'll do all of my fitting of the lid off of these.

sticker it here until tomorrow
dovetail tips
A friend of mine asked me to explain my dovetailing. There are a few tips I think would help him. The first one is to practice them. Dovetails are like anything else worth doing. It is going to take time, practice, and making a few mistakes along the the way. Tip #1 is to label the corners however you like.

I use the nubers1 through 4 and I always label the bottom. I do the bottom because it won't readily be visible and if I glue the bottom on, I don't have to erase anything. Tip #2, don't forget to allow for the half pin that gets sawn off. On those corners the label has to be set from the end a bit or you'll saw it off.

pay attention to the labels
Tip #3. Get in a OCD, anal retentive mood when you do dovetails. Get in the habit of doing the layout and sawing the same way everytime. I always saw my tails and pins with the outside facing me so any fuzzies from sawing will be on the inside.

Once you get in the habit of doing dovetails the same way you'll be surprised that you'll pick up on mistakes quicker. Something will not appear to be right and it usually isn't. Most of my catches have to do with me sensing a mismatch of the tails and pins (labeling).

tip #4
Get anal about keeping the reference faces together. This is where I usually make a mistake and catch it. I'll turn one of the reference faces 180. I always check the corner with the numbers to make sure they match. If one board is face flipped there will only be one number on the L or R corner.

the type of saw doesn't matter that much
Developing your sawing technique is more important than the saw used. You will learn to do dovetails with whichever saw you choose. I watched a You Tube video where the guy did a dovetail corner with a hacksaw and a screwdriver for a chisel. It's not the tools that make the joint, you do that.

tip #5
Here's the habit thing again. I always make my nick on the reference edge. I look for it when I lay my square on the reference edge to knife my lines.

tails done on box #2
I wasn't going to saw these out but I did. This is where I called it quits for today. Tomorrow I will make the lid, glue the bottom on, and figure out which tool this box is for.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that USDA standards state that a gallon of ice cream must weigh a minimum of 4.5 pounds?

big storm coming.......

Thu, 01/04/2018 - 3:22am
The weather situation in my part of the universe is going from bad to worse. Today was a heat wave with the temp getting above freezing but tomorrow it's turning into liquid fecal matter up to my armpits. There is storm coming and it is bringing a boatload of the white fluffy crap. Over the past two days the forecast has gone from 2-4 inches to 18 inches. After the storm passes on thursday afternoon the weekend temps are then predicted to be coldest we have seen so far this year.

The temps we have seen in the past week for december are about the lowest I can remember. Forget having positive single digit temps, we are heading for negative single digit temps. This weather forced my wife to leave a day early for her annual business trip. She is headed for San Diego this year and I doubt that it has ever snowed there.

I had my truck winterized and I had to pony up almost a grand to do that. I had the coolant flushed and replaced and the heat in the truck is working better now. Before the coolant change, the heat output was tepid at best. The heat coming out of the vents now is hot enough to make jiffy popcorn pop. I'm glad that I got it done before the storm hit.

An oil change and four new sneakers rounded out the winterization. I should be good for a couple more winters now. Especially so with new brakes 5K ago and a new battery a few months back.

walnut should be set
After the funny stuff that happened with the rapid fuse glue, I clamped this and set it by the furnace overnight. Normally I let it set a few hours and then play with it. It didn't seem to have been weakened in any way. I couldn't pull the long piece off so whatever problems I had with it yesterday had no effect on the final result.

it's a snug fit
I wasn't easy putting the lid on this. I had to shift into Cro-Magnon mode to do it.

dialing in the fit
I want a snug fit but a snug fit that I can put on and take off with just a wee bit of muscle. I sanded only the edge at the top for about an inch down. Checked the fit and repeated it until I got the snug, slip fit, I was looking for.

irons out of the EvapoRust, rinsed, and blown dry
EvapoRust darken the irons
These were shiny and bright before their bath. I could sand them again but I don't know what effect that will have on the treatment by the EvapoRust. I think I'll put some oil on them and stow them in their box as they are. It will be some time before Miles gets to play with them so it may be best to do this for the long term storage.

will it fit now?
it fits
It was a tight fit and the lid slipped over the irons ok.

not so good taking the lid of
The lid is holding on to most of the irons when the lid is removed.

the problem
This is an exaggeration, but there is a slight bellying in of the two sides. That is pinching the irons and holding them as the lid is removed. It doesn't hamper putting the lid on other than making it a bit snug.

sanding stick to the rescue
I started by sanding the bigger bottom part. I used the snuggest fitting iron to check my progress as I sanded.

this iron won't go down
I tried another iron and got the same result. The space to the left of the iron is ok. The spot where the iron is and to the right of it, isn't. Something odd - if I take out all of the irons and just put one in, I can put in anywhere along the whole slot with no problems. No sticking at 3/4 of the way in and I can slide it in and out easily.

the smallest, last iron, won't fit
sanded the lid but needs more work
you can see which irons were used the most
The 1/8" iron is the longest one so I am surmising that it was the one used the least. (on the bench hook)

still grabbing irons
After sanding the bottom part and still having a few tight spots, I filed it. That worked on getting most of it but the file couldn't get all the way to the bottom. So I'm back to square one here with both the lid and bottom grabbing irons.

a problem iron
This iron is thicker then the rest of them. Not only could I see it, but when I put against each of the other irons, I could feel it. I filed this iron until I couldn't feel a difference between it and the other irons.

made a new sanding stick with 60 grit
put a piece on the other end, opposite side
The slot in the lid and bottom wasn't wide enough for this sanding stick with 60 grit on both sides.  I started the 60 grit sanding on the bottom. When I could put the irons in to the bottom and turn it upside down and have the irons fall out, I switched to the lid.

finally done
Once I had sanded the lid slot open some, I glued another piece of 60 grit on the opposite side of the stick. Then I sanded both sides at the same time. Getting the irons to fit this box took a lot more time than the other two I did. I made this one the same way as the others so I don't know why this one was so difficult to do.

the iron adjuster knobs fit the other screw stems
chamfer thumbscrews
The thumbscrews don't fit in the adjuster knob. I was planning on going to Lowes to buy some 6mm washers but I had no transportation and it's too far to walk to. With the storm coming it'll probably be this weekend before I can get there.

#0, #1, and #2 Grace square drive  set
I got a Lee Valley gift card for xmas and I bought these for Miles's toolbox with it.

got a drill index too
I bought him a hand drill so he needed a drill index. It is a basic set from a 16th up to a 1/4".

ratcheting screwdriver square drive adapter
This will increase the abilities of the ratcheting screwdriver beyond it's phillips and two slotted driver tips.

this doesn't look good sports fans
They aren't even close to looking the same. I got this one based on looking at the picture on the Lee Valley site. This one is for a Stanley #131 ratcheting screwdriver. The screwdriver I have coming is a Stanley #135. The Craftsman one I have now I don't know if there is an equivalent Stanley for it. I don't know who made it for Craftsman. And the business end of it doesn't match the Stanley 131, 133, or 135.

seems to fit and lock in place
it fell out
As it turned, this promptly fell out. My second ratcheting screwdriver will have to be a #131.

ready for paint
I painted the plane body and it's hanging out by the furnace. These are in the on deck circle. After I got these painted I put a coat of shellac on the square and saw till boxes.

dovetail layout for the 78 & 044 boxes
These boxes are roughly the same size and the layout will be the same. I did the spacing of the tails by eye but laid  them out with a dovetail jig. I laid out the tails on one side and then used that to transfer the tails to the other one.

gang sawing
I saw this blue tape trick on a blog (?). Before this I had problems getting the a decent cut because I couldn't get and keep the two pieces aligned. The blue tape solved that problem. The benefit of gang sawing means the sides are symmetrical and interchangeable.

this sucks
It has been over a year since this last happened to me. My line didn't line up all the way around. That means I didn't knife one line off of a reference. I think I got the line knifed correctly on the second try. I'll have to wait and see how the final joint comes together.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Rafer Johnson was the first black athlete to carry the American flag in the opening procession of the Olympics?  (Rome,1960)

Preston chamfer shave rehab pt II..........

Wed, 01/03/2018 - 3:10am
Woke up at 0500 this morning. As in I went to bed at 2100 and slept through to 0500. I must have been a wee bit tired because I never sleep this late. 6 hours is my average for checking the eyelids for light leaks. But that again I am on vacation and I am getting used to sleeping late. Let's hope I don't oversleep on my first day back to work, eh?

the problem area
The four inset areas are the problem. They are painted while the surrounding area is plain metal. I tried taping it but gave up working with small sticky pieces of tape. I then thought of putting wax on them but I couldn't get it only where I wanted it. I cleaned that off with mineral spirits. I decided to forgo priming these areas and I will just paint them black. This wasn't primed by Preston and it survived without it and it will continue to do so.

the chamfer wings
This center slot with the two raised half circle beds was painted when I got it. I'll be painting it again but I won't be priming it.

the two outside runners
These were painted too or rather they had spots of paint on them. From that I could tell they were but that didn't make much sense to me. I am not painting them but leaving them bare metal. I sanded them but the casting was rough and there are a few pits and rough spots that will not sand out. Most of it will be hidden and never seen.

forgot this
The bottom is painted black but the walls aren't. That was the big problem - trying to tape off the the sidewalls but not the bottoms. I'll tape it all off and prime what I can.

the plane body taped off
A small piece of the bottoms shows on each handle. Tomorrow I'll scrape off any primer that may have been sprayed on the walls.

chamfer wings taped off
I found it harder to tape off the wings then I did taping the plane body.

all 3 thumb screws are the same
The screws weren't 12-28 (first choice), nor a 1/4-20 or 1/4-28. The fit in the 1/4-28 was loose and it definitely didn't fit 100%. I thought the screws might be BSW standard but I don't have anything to check the screws with for that.

it's a good fit for 6mm
This plane was made around the turn of the century and I thought England was still on the imperial system then. Did Preston start to use metric back then? My Preston spokeshave I just did has a 1/4-20 screw stem for the knob. At least I know what size washers to get now.

a plug
I got this as a xmas gift and it is outstanding. The claim is it will keep hot/cold stuff almost forever. I have had this in the truck with the temp in single digits and it kept my coffee hot. The outside got cold to the touch but the contents stayed hot. It stayed hot for the 30 minutes I was driving. I will say it wasn't as hot as when I started but still hot enough to enjoy. It's supposed to work on cold too but I haven't tried anything cold yet.  I get nothing for this and I'm not affiliated with YETI in any way. Just my opinion on this product. We will now resume our regularly scheduled blog.

can't use it
I was going to hang these on the coat hanger but it didn't happen. The screw hole is taped shut on one side and the other is stuffed with paper towels.

they can stay here for now
 Once they are sufficiently dry and I can touch them, I'll move them to the furnace table.

measuring for a box
I will make a box that holds this horizontally rather the vertical. The space in Miles's toolbox is restricted but I think having a box that isn't that high can be stowed in the bottom of it.

1/8" scraps for making a box for the irons
I made a box similar to this for the irons for the Lee Valley. This 1/8" plywood is the perfect size for these irons - it's a frog hair thicker than the irons are.

an iron has to be kept in the plane
it's because of this
The blade lever cap will only stay in place if it is holding an iron. I'll have to keep an iron in the plane or risk losing this. (this is the same problem I have with the Record 043)

laying out the box
This tic mark is the maximum height of the box based on the longest iron.

got my width
The width comes from the width of all of the irons laid together side by side. It will be less then this because one iron will always be in the plane. From here I can get the overall measurements for the box.

the box detail
It will be a slip fit.

spacers made
 I got lucky with the spacers and found them in the kitty litter scrap bin. Sometimes it pays to be a pack rat who can't throw anything away. The bottom left corner is my square one. When I glue the spacers in, I'll use that as my reference.

first spacer being glued in
The back of the shooting board will keep the this spacer flush with the bottom. The small scrap on the right is keeping the far right edge of the spacer flush with the box side edge. With the square cuts on the other spacers, I should end up with square box.

it's square
I clamped this with a couple of cauls for a 1/2 hour before I glued on the other side.

the cut in two mark
I made the box so that when the lid is on, there will be a space above the irons at the top.

other half being glued on
I have the bottoms flushed and it is slightly undersized R/L. After the glue has set up I'll plane it flush.

cleaned up the irons
Considering the age of this plane, the irons don't look that bad. All of them had a few rust blooms and I was able to sand 99% of them off. Two irons had some pits that I had to leave.

they'll be done tomorrow
After sanding them shiny I cleaned them with the degreaser and rinsed them with water. I tossed them in the EvapoRust bath to kill any rust I missed.

I sawed off this proud before I glued the other side on
I was going to leave this until after the glue set but I had trouble getting a good grip with a clamp in the middle.

I'll let this cook for a couple of hours

found some nice figured walnut to use as the lid banding
time to wrap the plane
I broke the plane done to parade rest and wraped up each individual part. This is heading across the big pond and I don't want to risk shipping this as it is here. I will ship this out on the 4th or the 5th.

box sawn in two
Got everything planed flush and square and now it's on to putting the lid banding on the smaller of the two pieces. The smaller sides pieces are batting lead off.

the nozzle was clogged
I passed a nail into the tip but I couldn't get any glue to come out. I took the cap off it and it looked like the blue cap was stuffed with cotton candy. I pulled that out and still couldn't get the glue to come. I had to warm it up with the hair dryer first.

the glue wasn't setting up
I warmed the walnut after I glued it on for a couple of minutes. This usually sets in a couple of minutes but today it didn't. It took twice as long and it was the same for the second piece.

knifed the line on one side
transferred the line onto the other side
I knifed the line as deeply as I could
snapped right off cleanly
box stock cut out
I am holding off on the box for the ratcheting screwdriver. I found a Stanley ratcheting screwdriver on Jim Bode's site and I'll wait till I get it. I don't know how the length of that one relates to this one.

no shellac today
Had a boo-boo that stopped putting on the first coat of shellac today. I had set one half on the other and got a scrape mark that I'll have to paint again.

I dropped the other half
Of course it landed right on the top corner.

box stock stickered
I decided to go with sliding lid boxes for both the Record 044 and the Stanley 78. I don't have any small hinges but I do have latches. But the latches won't work because the screws for them are too long for the 1/2" stock.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a baseball goes further when it is hot and humid because the air is less dense?

Preston chamfer spokeshave rehab.......

Tue, 01/02/2018 - 2:48am
I had started this rehab some time back, last year. I hadn't planned on doing it today but the thought of sanding the #6 plane body was as appealing as doing a self appendectomy. Without any pain medication and using a dull, rusted saw mower bl. Considering the peepers are healthy again, I didn't get a lot accomplished today. I'm on vacation until the 8th and I think I'll enjoy a couple of days of doing what I feel like, when I feel like it.

monday night after supper
Two 1 1/2 wide chisels and two plane irons done in about 15 minutes. My time to sharpen is slowly decreasing while the quality of the edge is going up. A nice trend I hope to see continue. The time to sharpen is improving but rolling a burr isn't. 90% of the time I don't get a burr off of my coarse diamond stone.

I use an angle setting jig and I use the same honing guide each time I sharpen. I would assume that since I am doing these dance steps the bandleader would be able to follow me. Most of the time I have to establish my burr on the 80 grit runway and then progress up through my diamond stones. It's working but shouldn't I be able to roll the burr from the coarse diamond stone?

I found three people on line that raise their burr on a 120 grit stone. One goes to a middle stone and the other two go right to their finishing stone. With all said and done, and with all I've seen, in the end is what I'm doing working for me? Yes it is and I'll try upping to 120 grit. But for now it's 80 grit and then coarse, medium, and fine diamond stones finishing with the 8k and then stropping it. The sharp I get does the job for me so until some other super duper sharpening method comes along that makes me say wow, this how I'll do it.

Preston chamfer spokeshave
I put it together to road test it. Made an even chamfer that I widened without any problems. No hesitation and the iron cut the pine ok. It is sharp as it is but I'll hone it my way during the rehabbing.

this is the before pic
I'll post this one again when the rehab is done. I hadn't planned on doing this today here. I was just prepping it for it's place in the queue.

saw and square till boxes
I sanded down the boxes with 320 grit and vacuumed off the dust. I then put on the second and final coat of exterior paint. I got one coat coverage with the first one but I didn't use a primer so I'm putting on two coats. Once the paint has cured a few days I'll put on a couple of coats of Shellac.

needs some touch up
I don't know how I got the horizontal line on the fence but the others I do. Those came from me sanding. I'll paint these and set them by furnace.

this is going to take a while
I took ten strokes on the 80 grit runway and I did see some improvement. The strokes removed a few black lines but not enough to impress me. This is where I decided to put this aside and rehab the chamfer spokeshave.

saw till box
One screw is trying to poke through. I think I hit a void in the plywood with this one because the screw felt mushy driving it. This is the bottom and it's not going to cause any headaches as it is so I'm leaving it.

with shellac it'll be the same color
not many parts to strip
The two chamfer wings, three thumbscrews, and the spokeshave body are it.

spokeshave body
Look at the balance on this tool. It is barely out of dead nuts horizontal.

getting the holidays
There were a few 'white' spots on the corners and a few on the long sides of the saw till box. I used the small artist brush to do them. While I was doing them I noticed the I had missed painting one long side on the saw till lid. No problems painting it with the small brush. I wouldn't have wanted to paint the whole box with it but this one spot was hiccup free.

parts stripped
I brushed all the parts with a wire brush and wiped off the stripper. This is pretty good for just stripper.

after some scraper and sandpaper action
I wasn't anticipating this but it is almost ready to prime. I'm on the fence about priming because the underneath part where the chamfer wings slide is a mixture of painted and bare metal surfaces. I looked at them and it would be difficult to tape off or just spray the primer and then scrape where it doesn't belong.

the cutout on the left is smaller
Another area that will take some thinking on how to proceed. Do I leave it as it is or try to file it to match the right side? I could just leave it as it didn't appear to interfere with the road test. From eyeballing it I think that the opening is clearance for the iron. I advanced the iron fully up and fully down without it catching. And I had done that before I saw this. The cutouts show no evidence of being filed by the previous owner so I think I'll leave it be.

did a little sanding on the lever cap
 I didn't put any stripper on the black inner area. I'll clean this with degreaser and acetone and paint it black again.

cleaning and sanding the inward cone will be a PITA
I found a felt conical shaped brush in my Dremel accessories. What I don't have is the mandrel for it. The hobby shop by my house went belly up a few years ago but maybe Hobby Lobby might have it. I'll try them tomorrow.

all the parts ready for paint and cleanup
The only part(s) that are a problem are the washers for the chamfer wings. One is larger than the other or if your perspective is opposite, one is smaller than the other. I've already tried to find a replacement but haven't had any luck. It is a weird size and of the 23 bazillion ones I have, none fit.

Preston spokeshave
The pic I posted of this in yesterday's blog didn't look like this one. That one didn't show the shine I got on the lever cap.

both have a big knurled adjustment knob
The flats on the top of the knob for the chamfer spokeshave are a bit wider but the cone appears to be the same size.

they are not the same size this way
The screw shaft is the same on both and knobs will fit on each of them. But the slot on the knob that engages the slot on the irons are different. I'll have to try the knobs on each other's irons and see if they fit. From a manufacturing viewpoint I would expect something like this to be standard across the spokeshave line.

it fits
I was taking a measurement of the 78 when I noticed the paint hiccups. I had this box but I don't know when I made because I didn't date it. The plane fits in it with plenty of room for the parts. All I would have to do is make some holders to secure the parts and a lid. I was going to make a sliding lid box but I could make do with this one.

don't see many of these
Other than Paul Sellers, I haven't seen any open tool trays being used by anyone else. Most of the old boxes for tools I see usually have a sliding lid type. Was it because they are easier to make? Finding a decent small hinge for 1/2" stock is just about impossible to buy. Making the lid to fit this isn't a problem, hinges and some kind of a latch might be. It I make a sliding lid box, I won't have to deal with the latter two. Maybe that is why sliding lid boxes are so prevalent.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the state sport of Alaska is dog mushing?


Mon, 01/01/2018 - 2:06am
A new year has begun and the other has faded away. A happy new year to all who read this dribble of mine because those that don't read it, won't know it. My new year desires are the same that I extend to everyone else, I want to learn something new. I want to learn how to do something I've never done before. And before 2018 goes away, I want to learn how to do it well.

Here's to the adventure that awaits me.

accidental woodworker

well, at least the shop got cleaned......

Sun, 12/31/2017 - 5:27pm
I hope that once I get done telling my tale of woe that I am not alone in the universe with it. I would really hate to be the only person that this has happened to. In my desperation to resolve it, I asked my wife for advice. Which wasn't easy because enlisting her help left  paper trail and a wittness. Oh well, stercus accidit.

before my loneliness set in
Things started off on a good foot for me today. When I sanded a few of the putty spots, I must have  pulled some of it out. The tape is to hold it in place because I don't want to do this puttying twice. Fill one side wait for it to dry and fill in the other side.

had one on the bottom too
That dark spot looks like a gap but it isn't. I'm not sure what it is exactly but it isn't a divot of any sort. The paint will hide it regardless.

more spritzing action
I nailed the water/putty ratio this time. I mixed up just enough to fill what I needed to. Nice to see that the container was empty when I was done. The bonus is that after the putty has dried I can knock it out of the container and reuse it.

another road test
I put all the screws in by hand and no hiccups taking them out with the ratcheting screwdriver. Changed my mind on giving this to Miles. I will look around and get a Stanley for him once I find one. And I may have to buy two because I don't like the plastic handle.

the left hinge is glued
I used rapid fuse glue to adhere the wooden shims I used to decrease the hinge mortise depth. It looks like some got on the hinge. I didn't know that the rapid fuse would glue metal to wood.

This is where the tale of woe starts. I was prepping this and the saw till box for paint. I used the LN 102 to break all the outside surfaces and sandpaper on a stick to do all the internal ones. I missed placed the block plane. I looked everywhere in the shop for it and gave up trying to find it. I went on to other things that I had on my to-do list.

new home
I am going to hang this or a Stanley one between the knobs. I was going to make two wooden hooks to hang it on but I'll wait. There are 3 bits that come with these that I'll need to keep with it along with the Lee Valley square shank adapter. Maybe a mailbox type setup to hold the driver and the bits?

no glue,  just screws
The thickness of this is less than a 1/2" and the smallest screws I have are 5/8". I want to screw this in so I can replace or fix it if it becomes necessary.

adding some thickness
I found two strips of 1/8" plywood and I'll glue them on each end. If I don't go Cro-Magnon driving the screws home I shouldn't break out on the bottom.

time to search for the plane
Not knowing where I put the blockplane down was driving me buggy. I couldn't think of anything else but finding where I hid it. I thought I might have dropped it on the deck so I swept the floor. I sifted through all the shavings to make sure I didn't inadvertently toss it in the shitcan. I didn't find the plane so I went searching upstairs. I didn't find it upstairs and I even looked in the head on the off chance I brought it in there.

I stopped everything I was doing and thought about what I was doing just before I put the plane down. I remember using it to break the edge and putting it on the tablesaw. I retraced all my steps and checked all the horizontal surfaces everywhere I was. No luck as the blockplane was still MIA.

stopped searching and cleaned my 10" blade
This stuff cleans all the crap that sticks in the gullets and the teeth. I like it because you don't have to wait an hour before scrubbing it. I sprayed both sides, waited a couple of minutes, and then scrubbed the blade with a brass brush.

used this in the gullets and for the faces of the teeth
can't hurt
I touched up the teeth with this extra fine diamond stone paddle. All the teeth are intact with a few having some small chips on the tops of them. I laid the paddle flat on the face and took a couple of strokes. I tried to do the same number of strokes on each tooth. Doing all 40 teeth took about 10 minutes and that includes scraping and cleaning the gullets and teeth too.

finishing up the plumb bob stick
I was looking for the blockplane on the sharpening bench where this was and decided to finish it. Couldn't find the blockplane but at least I could finish this. This slot mortise will be used to secure the string.

mortise done
wedge holds the string
I left the wedge long so I could grab it to remove it. It is also inset into the mortise a strong 32nd.. The back of the plumb bob stick has to be able to lay flat against the surface bring checked for plumb. The wedge won't interfere with the plumb in any direction.

Trying to thread the string in the plumb bob was an adventure. The yellow poly line I used is a PITA because it unravels in a heart beat. I heated and melted the threads together and it was too big to fit in the plumb bob. I actually stopped playing with it and looked for the blockplane again.

I went outside in the freezing weather and emptied out the garbage can into another another garbage can. I sifted through all the crap twice searching for the block plane. Once when I emptied the can and then when I put it back into it. I found two screws but no blockplane so I went back to threading the plumb bob.

xmas present from my daughter
I finally got the plumb bob threaded and I resisted the urge to give it and the stick flying lessons. I have the stick in the vise and it is slightly out of plumb R/L.

you can see it isn't plumb R/L
I have to draw in the plumb line on the bottom stand off. That is the center of the stand off R/L.

in/out plumb
No line or indicator for this. If it is plumb in/out, the string will be just touchingon the edge of the standoff. If you are out plumb like it is in the pic (leaning out), the plumb bob will be away from the standoff. If you are leaning in, the string will be resting on the edge and the plumb bob will be closer to the stick.

found it
I had gone upstairs and told my wife again about not being able to find the blockplane. She agreed to come to the shop and help to look for it. As I was explaining the MIA blockplane, I saw what the problem was. I have a empty slot here.The far right plane is the high angle LN blockplane and next to in the empty slot should be the LN 102, low angle blockplane. I was keying on the empty slot where a blockplane should be.

this is the way it should be
The LN 103 and LN 102 live on the left side with the LN #60 1/2  and LN #9 block planes on the /right with the violin plane in the middle. I had been searching for a plane that I had . Because the LN 102 was in the wrong slot, I thought it was MIA. I easily spent 3 hours searching and butt scratching for a plane that was misplaced.

the LN 60 1/2
This plane is on the sharpening bench because the sole is covered with pine pitch. I put tools needing to be sharpened or cleaned on the sharpening bench. It forces me to do what is needed before I use it.

first coat on
 I was going to put the second coat on after dinner but nixed that. The weather is supposed to dip down low tonight. The weather seers are predicting wind chills to be -20°F (-29°C). It was dry to the touch when I checked it then but I'll wait until tomorrow. The shop temp is still hovering around 60°F (15.5°C) in spite of the low outside temps. I'll take as it isn't that bad working in there as long as I am moving and doing.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the Sears Roebuck catalog was rated as America's second favorite book in 1900? (the bible was #1)

two more rehabs done......

Sun, 12/31/2017 - 3:11am
Had my best day in the shop in over a week(?). I got two rehabs done that I've had at the 70% mark for a while. I also actually got in some my woodworking. I used some planes and a saw. It is like riding a bike where you pick up the tool and just use it.  

This blog post is pic heavy to reflect my return to the shop and spending most of the day in it. I'll try to keep the verbiage down and let the pics talk for me.

painted the frog for my #6
Most of this frog was originally japanned and I took it down to parade rest and painted it again.

not much black on the front
these two will be done together
I was going to work exclusively on the spokeshave but added the 78. I have to use the same sanding belts on both so it made sense to do them at the same time.

a couple of strokes shows I have hollow to deal with
it's not square
the parallel line is want I will start applying pressure to
That parallel line is roughly where it is out of square. This the business corner of the plane. This side has to be square to the sole.

it's square now
Now that I have the sole square to the side, I concentrated on getting the sole flat and straight.

As I sanded away the black lines I checked to make sure I was maintaining square.

sole is almost done
The back and the front are both slightly beveled or rounded. Makes sense that having this would help with rabbeting but not having a catch point fore or aft.

my #6   I wonder who AJP was?
put his initials on the other cheek too
removed the blue tape
Since I had the 80 grit out I wanted to take a few strokes on the sole to see what I'm up against.

big hollow  - 6 strokes
The front 2 inches of the toe and last 2 inches of the heel are high. Everything inbetween is low

black lines for checking progress
5 strokes
It is going to take a lot of calories to flatten this sole. I did a few strokes on each side and those are in sad shape too.  This plane is next on the hit parade for rehab.

hollow around the mouth
I had to hand sand this area. It really started to stick out after I went from 120 to 180.

finishing the sole by hand
I finished the sanding of the 78 by hand. I used up to the 220 grit on the sanding belts and I did the 320,400, and 600 grits by hand. I did these same steps on the spokeshave.

this latch just fits the square till box
There were two in this package and I only plan on using one. This cereal container makes a good parts keeper.

I have a boatload of them
These are proving to be a handy thing to save. I really like them for keeping all the parts in one place of all the tools I've been rehabbing lately.

the before pic
This spokeshave was alright to use as I got it. It didn't look pretty other than the handles, but it worked out of the box.

bow shot
back and bottom shot

78 before shot
I couldn't find a pic of it assembled. This is a pic of it broken down and cleaned up.

before pic of the right side
port side
bow shot
starboard side
stern shot
bottom shot
flushing the lid on the square till box
This wooden plane worked well on flushing and evening up the corners but it isn't long enough to flush the whole lid. I finished this up with the 5 1/2. I'll be painting this tomorrow or monday.

it worked well for flushing the corners
checking my top and bottom isn't twisted
I'll be running this against the tablesaw fence when I saw the lid off. I'll get crap for getting a continuous 360 saw line if it is twisted even a little.

swapped out my 10" blade
I got a 7 1/2" fine cut steel blade that has a smaller kerf than the 10" blade.

sawn almost through and still together  -   all four corners lined up
dovetail saw sawed through the thin web left
 better than what I could do by hand
left about a 16th to trim
trimmed it off with a chisel
disappointed with the depth - I wanted it deeper
coping saw fits and a handsaw too
the lid could have extended down into here without any problems
Moot point and I'll have to live with this as is.

not much meat there
I am not even going to attempt to leave that thin web there. I will make the hinge mortise straight across.

not deep enough
When I put the piano hinge on the square till box I made the mortise too deep. I don't want to repeat that here so I am doing the mortise a little and check the fit. I need to go a bit deeper as the hinge side has the lid tapered. I need to make the hinge mortise a bit deeper. I am also only making the hinge mortise on the box bottom.

good fit on the front, it's within two frog hairs
the sides are offset  - this will plane out easily
I'm getting better at installing hinges
I put 3 screws in both hinge leaves to check the fit. Putting in hinges has always been an intimidating experience for me. Since I've been laying out the mortises with a knife as accurately as I can, my results have greatly improved.

arthritis cure
It hurt putting the six screws in with a hand phillips screwdriver so I decided to try this out.

it's wonderful
I was expecting me to give this flying lessons but I didn't. I was anticipating trying to keep this from dancing all over the place but it didn't happen neither. Instead it impressed the crap out of me. The bit stayed in the head of the screw and not one popped out. The ratcheting action was smooth with no problems driving the screws squarely. It was easy peasy and I drove all the screws in no time at all. I think I spent more time starting the screw holes with an awl than I did driving them home. I was impressed with the ease of use I had doing this.

time for Dunham's putty
I am painting this and Dunham's will hide all of these.

the other end
The tails and pins for the most are still tight. Most of the gaps popped up when flushed the corners with the planes.

these weren't here before I planed this corner

mixing a new way
I don't have a good track record mixing this up. The putty to water ratio isn't 50/50. It's more like 1 part powder and .00001 part water. It takes very little water to make the putty. I always end up with way too much putty because I suck at getting the amount of water to putty even remotely close. Today I'm trying powder in the container first (I was doing water first and then power)and then spritzing it with a little water and mixing it. Spritz and stir until it was ready worked better then I expected it.

gaps and tear outs all filled in
The spritzing to add water worked well. This is the first time I've used Dunham's and didn't end up tossing 90% of what I made. Tomorrow after this is sanded, it'll be ready for paint.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know the Encyclopedia Britannica was first published between 1768 and 1771 in 3 volumes?

it's been a wee bit cold.......

Sat, 12/30/2017 - 2:27am
The temperature has been trying to slip down into the single digits but hasn't. This morning I went out to warm up my wife's car before she went to work and the temperature was a single digit. At 0630 it was 8°F (-13°C) and by 1530 the temperature had zoomed up to 22°F (-5.6°C). This cold weather started before christmas and it has steadily gotten colder each day. I'm sure the oil/gas companies are hoping for it to continue but I'm ready for it to stop. The weather seers report we'll be enjoying it for a while yet.

shop temp at 1420
At 0600 the shop temp was about 57°F (14°C) which isn't too bad considering the outside temp. Today was the first day in almost a week where I spent more than an hour continuously in the shop. I felt the cold but I have been in the shop when it was colder. The lowest temp I recall in the shop was 52°F (11°C) but I don't think the outside temp was in single digits. Didn't matter too much as I was in and out of the shop all day.

The peepers are getting better. I would say the left eye is healed and the right eye is now about 95%. So maybe after the weekend I'll be back in the driver seat hollering and cussing out the maroons.

yoke is painted
I rinsed this after it's EvapoRust bath and scraped off what little japanning that was left on it. I was surprised that the japanning on the inside by the circular ends was still 99.9% intact. This is where the groove in the adjuster rides and I would have thought it would have worn the paint off.

After scraping it, I cleaned it with degreaser, then with acetone, and painted it. I am only going to put one coat on the yoke. After seeing the inside and knowing this isn't subjected to a lot of wear, it isn't necessary to put multiple coats on it.

repainted the spokeshave handle
I got this hanging on the coat hanger from two points of contact. One through the screw hole for the lever cap and the other through the opposite handle that I didn't paint. This will hang out with the yoke until tomorrow. I am shooting for getting the spokeshave done then. Doing these two things are all I got done after I got the blog posted and I came back to the shop at 1330.

I had to run some errands and after I got them done I didn't feel like doing anything. I got really tired all of a sudden and vegged out at my desk. I took a nap today while supposedly sitting at my desk working. Weird day for me for sure.

lever cap for the spokeshave
The small black dots on the spokeshave are pits. I thought these were the result of carelessness on the part of the person who made it. But I think that these are caused by the casting process. I asked my brother-in-law who was an HT in the navy and said that they appear to be that. This show side, other than the small pits, is pretty good. The back side is rough and isn't seen so no calories were expended cleaning that up by me or the person who made it.

the pits are gone
Standing back from the lever cap and the pits seem to disappear. I will sand this up to 600 grit and apply autosol as the final step. (This is sanded up to 320 here)

LN honing long jaws
The regular jaws can't hold this iron at all.

won't work
Even with the long jaws holding the iron I can't use my angle setting jig.

setting the bevel flat on the stone
8 strokes
I am sanding only in the middle portion at the heel. I want to sand enough to check what the angle is.

it's 25°
I sharpen almost every plane iron and chisel I have at 25°. I have a two LN plane irons I do at 30° and most of my pigstickers are sharpened at 30° too. I do this to simplify things for me. Plus I don't see any advantages to having different angles for each tool. Overall, 25° is working for me. It is harder on some irons/chisels and lasts longer on others. To my thinking, it doesn't matter one way or the other. As soon an edge gets dull you have to sharpen it, regardless of the bevel angle.

ratcheting screwdriver
I am giving this to Miles for his toolkit. I bought this in the late 70's and I never used it. I think I bought a cordless drill around the same time so this drill didn't have a chance. I can't find the flat screwdriver tip so he'll have to get by with the phillips head. I bought a adapter from Lee Valley today that will fit this and allow the use of square shank bits.

40 plus years old
It still works flawlessly. No binding or sticking along the whole length of the ratchet. It locks and the loose and tighten switching works too. Other than the ugly red plastic handle, this looks pretty good.  Once I get the adapter, I'll road test this driving phillips, square, and slot head screws, in and out.

last thing I did
I finished flattening the back of this 1 1/2" chisel I got for Miles's tool kit. I am done with the initial rough sanding on 80 grit and I will finish up on the stones tomorrow.

I can see the burr on this side
It has to be flat because I feel a consistent burr on the bevel.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the motto of the Salvation Army is 'Blood and Fire'?

finally got some shop time........

Fri, 12/29/2017 - 2:54am
My right eye is still pretty bad but my left eye is rapidly getting better. I can see out of it better than the right except for the times I put the medicine in both eyes. When I do that everything is blurry and out of focus for an hour or so. I didn't want to risk sawing or using sharp tools yet so I did what I could on what is on my rehab plate. It was wait, do a little of this, and wait again. Repeat throughout the day.

working on e 78 sides
 I used the sanding belt on the right to clean this side of the 78.  I was taking my time here even though this operation didn't require me to be able to see all of what I was doing. I just wanted to remove any paint on the shiny metal and get a look see at the scratch pattern. On this side there is a well defined line between the painted surfaces and the soon to be shiny metal ones. It isn't fuzzy or blurry looking along the edges.

the right side
Besides the sole, the right side is the biggest expanse of shiny metal. I used the sanding block on this side too and hit what may be a problem. That dot in the half circle by my finger is the rivet head that holds the iron advance/retraction lever. It was domed but I ran the sanding block over it without realizing it was proud of the shiny metal real estate. It is no longer domed but flat. The important thing is I don't seem to have done anything to screw up the lever being able to pivot.

Another hiccup is the paint line where the edge meets the shiny metal. It is not sharply defined. There is a slight scallop at the top of the shiny metal and it is rough there making the line between the two surfaces blurry.  I am not sure that I can fix this or at least make the line a bit sharper.

This is the business side of the plane and it should be square to the sole. That dictates how this is sanded. I can spot sand certain areas but I must concentrate the sanding in even strokes across the length and at the same time from the top to the bottom. I set this aside for now and  I'll come back to when the peepers aren't infected anymore.

I don't know what this is called but I know what it is used for. This is the back of the mouth where the bottom of the iron rests. It is where the lever caps exerts a force keeping the iron tight up against it. I sanded this one and the bullnose one to the right with a 150 grit sanding stick. I couldn't see what I was doing even if my peepers were 100%. I did the sanding by feel keeping the sanding stick flat on it and checking ever so often on the removal of the machine made scratches.

I didn't do the sole because I would have had to set up my marble sanding runway. I didn't want to do that today but maybe later on this weekend I will.

my Stanley Victor #20
It sure doesn't look as good as the one the Plane Collector just rehabbed.

my plane says 20
The Plane Collector said his plane was a 20 1/2. I haven't found anything yet showing any differences between the 20 and 20 1/2 or even a model 20 or 20 1/2. Trying to read books or a computer screen hasn't been easy the past few days so maybe I'll find something else after my peepers are 100%.

the screw that gave me fits
I can't imagine why the previous owner had such a big throat. Was he doing rough work with this plane? I'm not sure if he had the proper offset screwdriver to use on this screw, so maybe it was frozen for him too. Even with the correct screwdriver I had a bear of time loosening it.

couple of things I won't breaking done
The frog is held onto the flexible sole with a dovetail joint. It looks like it is peened on one side to keep it in place. Not something that is giving me the warm and fuzzy about removing.  I think I can break it down to where I can work on the major sub assemblies individually.

I keep the screwdriver with the plane
missed this
I cleaned this with the degreaser and put it in some EvapoRust. I have some other things that need some black paint and I'll paint this when I do them.

the holder worked well
This still needs to be flipped around so I can sand the top of it. Before I do that I will hacksaw off the bolt head on the other end. That interferes with securing this in a vise. I worked around that by putting a 1/2" thick piece of scrap wood in the vise between the shaft and the vise face.

sanding stick action on the spokeshave sole
 Once I get the marble sanding runway on the bench, I'll switch to that to finish the sole.

found a blemish on the spokeshave
I must hit or touched this part of the spokeshave on something while the paint was still wet. I had to sand it down to bare metal again to remove it and feather it out.

primer sprayed on
tape removed
I covered up some of the defect with the blue tape. I sprayed it again with primer to get the spot I missed. There was a bit of over spray but I can paint over that.

Enough for today. I got quite a workout running up and down the cellar stairs. My left eye is getting better quicker than the right so I'm hoping to get more done tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Annie Oakley once gave a shooting demonstration by shooting at 5000 pennies and hitting 4777 of them? (almost 96%)


Thu, 12/28/2017 - 2:37am
I have a boatload of things to be done, I'm on a mini vacation, all the company has left but I can't work in the shop. I took some pics with the camera and I had to get my wife to look at them because I couldn't make them out. Either could she because she said they were too blurry to see what they were. So along with no work in the shop, I have no pics for today's blog.

It wouldn't have made much of a difference as I don't have much to write about today. I am super close on getting the spokeshave and the rabbet plane done. Being that close to being done and not being able to finish them is incredibly frustrating. A bit ironic that my rehabbing of them caused my eye infections and it's now delaying me getting to the finish line.

I have gone to the shop several times and tried to work but no dice. No see, no work because I inflict enough cuts and nicks on my fingers with good eyesight. I was able to see one tool that I totally forgot to include in yesterday's post.

About 6-7 years ago (?) I went thru a round table building phase. I made 6 round top tables in a row. I had just started to get serious about doing hand tool work and I looked around for a compass plane to plane the tops. I ended up getting a Stanley Victor plane from Patrick Leach.

Before I got this plane I was trying to perfect my round tops with a spokeshave. I wasn't getting good results with it at that time. I switched to a block plane and that worked somewhat but not entirely well. I left a lot of flats and some parts I didn't get square to the top. A sander worked the best but I wasn't thrilled with the look I got. This is where I thought of and bought the compass plane.

The plane I got was in good shape but I never used it. The plane had a problem with the frog being set too far back making the throat too wide. I couldn't loosen the  frog screw that secured it so I could close the throat. By the time I finally got the correct size offset screwdriver, I was done with my round table building phase. The plane got stuck put in the cabinet and forgotten.

I never rehabbed this plane and all I did to it was to sharpen and hone the iron. I don't recall even road testing it. This plane has sat in the cabinet since then. But that may change now because I just watched a rehab video by 'The Plane Collector' today where he did one. I like the before and after looks so I'll be rehabbing mine. He also shows the whole thing taken down to parade rest.

So my Victor compass plane is in a tool category of it's own. I bought it, got it ready to work, and never used it. I'll have to add making another round table to my list of things to be done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the apartment number that Sheldon and Leonard (The Big Bang Theory) live in is 4A?


Wed, 12/27/2017 - 12:02am
He who has the most tools when he dies wins. I don't think I'm in the top ten but certainly in the top 1000.  Hint: if you leave a boatload of tools behind your wife will be able to finally finance that Bahamas trip. I believe that you can have too many tools and there is a fine line between need and use. Sometimes it is blurred in the buying process.

I can appreciate an old tool as well as anyone else but I am not a collector. I don't see the purpose of having a tool to stick on a shelf somewhere just to look at. I want any tool in my shop to earn it's keep. I try to keep my tools maintained so that when I grab one to use I can put it straight to work. Some tools in my shop get more love than others. But for the most part I think I used every tool I own at least once during the year.

Some tools in my shop never see any use and those would be the portable hand held electron munching ones. I have 7-8 routers that have laid dormant for years along with my collection of router bits. I have a Makita hand held portable planer that I used when I did apartment maintenance. It is in the black hole of tool storage somewhere. It doesn't bother me that these electric tools aren't being used and once I get around to it, I'll sell them. I don't think that I'll ever use them again and I have absolutely no intention of giving them to Miles or showing him how to use them.

There are very few tools that I have bought that I don't use. And I mean I don't even use them once a year. I'm fortunate in that I can only think of two with a possible third. The first one is a butt mortise plane that I bought from Lee Valley.

I bought this to clean and even out tenon cheeks. It has a good chunk of real estate in front of the mouth so I reasoned that I could set the toe on the stock and plane the cheek to the shoulder. I'm sure someone is thinking, "you idiot, use the router plane.....". I had tried the router plane but I was getting tapered cheeks. So rather than improve my technique with the router plane, I thought the butt mortise plane would give me better results.

It was a hit or miss affair. Sometimes I got parallel and sometimes tapered. I found that was mostly  dependent upon the grain direction on the cheeks. Planing at a skew helped but in doing that I lost quite of bit of the registration surface of the stock. In theory I thought it was a good idea, but it turned out to yield so-so results.

This tool now sits in a cabinet and gets no loving and no use. I guess I could use it for it's intended purpose to mortise hinge gains but those I do with a chisel and a router. This is an example of a tool bought but didn't perform as expected. So far I've only bought one like this.

The second tool is an edge tool I got from Lee Valley. I got this tool to square the edges of boards because I was having problems doing that with a bench plane. With time and lots and lots of practice, I finally mastered planing edges square with bench planes. I can now even plane small pieces square with bench planes.

I thought I would use the edge plane for thin edges and small pieces of stock. What I am finding is that I will use whatever plane is out on the bench. The size of what to be planed has proved to be of no consequence. I haven't used the edge plane in a long time but I do recall using it twice this year.

The last tool is a Stanley center finder. (stopped making it in the late 80's) How often do you need to find the center of circle? And this tool will also give a square 90°. I think I used this a few years back but it's been so long that I don't know. This is a tool that I bought when I first started out woodworking in late 70's.

When I buy a tool I usually get for a specific purpose. What I've found is that as my skill level has gotten better I don't use a tool as frequently as I bought it for that purpose. Or I will get another tool as a replacement. My Record 405 is a good example of this. I bought it to do grooves, dadoes, and rabbets. The perfect multipurpose tool that is a clone of the Stanley 45.

I never made a rabbet or dado for a project with it but I did make a lot of grooves with it. I found out that I didn't like the multi-use aspect of it. From using this plane I realized that I like dedicated tools that are made to do one thing but maybe can be used for another.

I have also found out that as my skills have improved, tools I started out with and were my favorite ones to use, aren't so much now. I had a #4 hand plane that I used for everything and I bought a second one because two is better than one. I then bought a 4 1/2 to rehab and it is now my favorite handplane. I keep this one on my workbench with a 5 1/2 and these are my two go to and use all the time hand planes.

I've been through the same love affair same with block planes. I had a LN 60 1/2 block plane that I used almost as much as my #4. I got a LN 102 and it has become my darling. I recently got a used LN low angle adjustable block plane but I still like the nimble and lightness of the LN 102. The LN block planes have been repurposed for large end grain and rough stock work.

I think I've come full circle with the tool acquisitions. I've settled into a routine with the tools I have that matches my experience level. I don't think I need anymore tools. I need to practice and master the tools I have now.  I have long gotten past the internal "Do I really need this....." argument. I am comfortable with what I have to use and I'll get by with them. Having a boatload of tools adds nothing to your ability to work wood with them. Practice and use dictates that.

When I look at my old tool catalogs and see 23 iterations of the same block plane with only minor differences I understand why now. Each of us has our own tastes, preferences, intended uses, and likes and dislikes about tools. I tend to buy tools with function first and looks second. To me the two go hand in hand. Old tools, IMO, are the best for looks and function one package.

I do have one tool that I would like to get. I won't say it would be my last one but it may. I would like to get a Stanley 444 dovetail plane. I find this plane interesting because it cuts the male and female parts of the joint. However, comma/slant/back space/double quotes/questions marks/ the *^#!%)^^#@%(*%$( price of them is more that cost of rocket launch to the moon. So it may be a while before I get one of them.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the lint that collects in the bottom of your pockets is called gnurr?

new vs old......

Tue, 12/26/2017 - 2:02am
The old saying is that they don't make them like they used to.Some will say it is best that they don't make them like they used to. Others will state that today's better materials and manufacturing processes make a superior project. I am kind of  in the latter camp. I also think that old or new, the technology available at the time does not necessarily dictate how well a product is made.

Take old saws and saws being made today. For the most part older saws have thicker saw plates and the saws of today have thinner plates. Could it be that the older saws had thicker plates due to the manufacturing processes available then? Good research topic for sure but I am dealing with the actual saws themselves. Not how they were made or what they were made from. But before that......

Normally I would have spent some time in the shop in spite of it being xmas time, but I have been way laid. I have an infection in both of my eyes and it is too difficult to see to do woodworking. I know because I tried and gave up before I screwed something up.

I think I know what cause the infection this time and the last infection I got  last week. I was sanding the planes and getting the dust from it on my fingers. Without thinking I rubbed my eyes with my dirty fingers and paid the price. So it'll be a few days before I get back to doing any woodworking. But I've been thinking of saws a lot lately and I can blow some hot air about that.

two old thick plate saws
I had originally bought these saws for Miles's toolbox. The top one is a carcass saw and the bottom is a dovetail saw. Miles's didn't get these two and I bought him others. I kept these because they impressed the crap out of me. Up to this point I had been using LN saws for all my needs but that changed after road testing these.

thick plate dovetail and carcass saw
I had a couple of surprises with the carcass saw especially. This saw is roughly the same size as the LN carcass saw I have but the similarities end there. This saw is a bit heavier, much, much stiffer, and I think it cuts better. Hands down my control with this older saw is way better than what I do with the LN carcass saw.

I'm not saying the LN saw is garbage, far from it. I learned how to saw by hand with it. I am still using it but it has been supplanted by a large margin with this older saw. I have found that the thicker plate gives me a better of control with keeping the attitude of it at 90° as I saw. Both saws are sharp so they are both dead even in that department.

LN carcass and dovetail saws
Using the the older carcass feels the same as a wearing a pair of well worn in socks. They fit, don't bind, aren't the best looking, but you reach for them if you see them in the drawer. This saw is giving me a warm and fuzzy the same as the socks do.

thick plate carcass saw (top) and LN carcass saw
After using the thick plate saw, I can see that I struggle a bit with the thinner plate ones. It takes more concentration and effort on my part to saw square with a thin plate saw. It isn't as easy to correct an errant thin plate saw cut neither.

The exception to the thick plate love affair is the thin plate dovetail saw. For all other cuts at the bench I now prefer the thicker plate carcass saw but for dovetails I like the thinner plate. I like the thin kerf that I get with the thin plate dovetail saw. With the thicker plate one, I find it easier to saw the tails and stay parallel to my layout lines. The downside is a kerf twice the width of the the LN thin plate dovetail saw.

LN dovetail has horn damage

underneath look is worse
I have a replacement tote that LN sent to me but I have yet to replace it. I had been struggling a bit with dovetailing before I broke this and after the break, everything fell into place for me. I wasn't making Paul Seller looking dovetails, but they were finally decent looking ones for me. I haven't replaced it because I think it will bring bad luck to me. Irrational I know but right after I dropped the saw and did this damage, I started to see a big improvement in my sawing dovetails.

For the time being I'll continue to use the thick plate saws at the bench and the LN for dovetailing. I am going to try out the thick plate dovetail saw on the next shop project that needs dovetails.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Albert Kaufmann invented the electric jigsaw (called the Lesto Jigsaw) in 1947?