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Accidental Woodworker

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The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2518125
Updated: 1 hour 46 min ago

kitchen sink almost done.......

Mon, 04/17/2017 - 12:27am
I live in Rhode Island which is a predominately catholic state. At one time, nothing was open on Easter and I mean nothing. Not even gas stations or convenience stores. Today, the reverse has happened. Grocery stores are open and restaurants are offering up Easter sunday ham dinners and you can buy a new suit too if you so desire. Times are changing. Religion doesn't have the sway it did when I was kid.

I took a break from the shop and my wife and I went out for an Easter lunch. I had the traditional ham dinner and my wife opted for turkey. We went to Gregg's and the place was packed. It seems that a lot of families were letting Gregg's do the cooking and the cleaning up today. I like Gregg's because they serve real mashed potatoes and not the instant crap that tastes wet cardboard.

late start today
The arm is solidly attached now but I can't fold it. I hope that I don't forget this and try to do before my new eye peepers come in.

epoxy droplet
After wearing the glasses all day, this will be history. I can see it in my peripheral vision and it is annoying.

not as annoying as this is
I got a dab of epoxy on the lens and it was coming off with alcohol but not as fast as I wanted it to. Brilliant idea formulated in the brain bucket - scrape what is left with a brand new single edge razor blade. Got rid of the epoxy but I left behind a couple of scratches. The only good thing is that it is slightly up and to the left from the center of my vision. Annoying but I'll have to deal with it for a few weeks.

ready to unclamp
 I didn't know what to expect on this because the top and bottom weren't parallel when I clamped it.

out of the clamps
It's a rocking on the bench and it was a rocking on the tablesaw. I definitely did something clamping this up.

left turn into my grain problem
These whitish streaks are tiny fissures but they are smooth to the touch. I couldn't scrape these out and sanding just made them pop out even more.

ugly looking
 Again, this is smooth to the touch but I can't scrape it away. Scraping did take some of it but not all.

back to my rocking problem
It's twisted which doesn't surprise me considering how it was clamped. I was expecting something but not this.

this corner and the back diagonal one are high
I planed a little off the two high corners and checked my progress by setting it on the tablesaw.

making sure I stay square
No rocking no matter which corner I tried. There isn't any space under any of the four bearing points neither.

the unrockers
I was a bit discouraged when I saw that the bases were twisted. I envisioned this turning real ugly rather quickly. It didn't and it is rock free now (I hate rocking more than anything else). I used the big plane to remove the bulk of the waste and the low angle plane to keep square and to finesse it. Getting rid of rocking was way easier than I thought it would be.

sawed off the left side by eye
I wanted the angle to be steeper than 45 so I just sawed what looked good to my eye.

sawing the right side
This one came out too shallow and I corrected it with the low angle block plane. At the same time I cleaned and smoothed the saw cut.

just enough clearance to use the block plane to clean it up
more of the mystery whitish spots
The shelf isn't from the same stock as the ends but it has the same fissure grain hiccups. I know walnut is a porous wood so maybe these spots would disappear if I used a grain filler (which I don't have).

the after scraping pic
A lot of it is still there. Scraping is a bust here so I sanded it with 220 and I'm calling this done. All that is left is to make the drawer and apply the finish.

thinning the lid for the box
 With the exception of the plywood bottom, this box is made entirely with the same wood (NZ radiata pine).

doing something different
On my past lids I was getting blowout when I planed the angle on the front end. I did an experiment where I did the angle first, and then the rabbets and the astragals. Doing it in that sequence yielded no blowouts. I am repeating that but on a for real lid. I started by making the width between the grooves a 16th wider than the opening.

rough sawn length
I squared the front edge and sawed the length an 1/8" over. The rough sawn edge will be the back and I will plane that to fit after the lid is fitted to the opening.

planed the front chamfer
I used the #8 because I still haven't sharpened the iron in the 51.

rabbets are next
the astragals comes after the lid is fitted
rabbets done , fitting for the width
I got the rabbets done to where the front edge fits in the groove. I can't do any more fitting of them until I get the width of the lid. Planing this thin edge with this plane helps to keep it square.

very shallow rabbet
This small rabbet is to account for the thin web I left when I plowed the groove.

width almost there
Now that I got the lid started into the grooves I switched back to fine turning the rabbets.
speed bump
I got lucky with this piece breaking off. I found it inside the box.

glued it back on and took a break
The kitchen sink I got was too big for the cabinet opening. With these less than stellar cabinets, I wasn't taking any chances with trying to make it fit. I called Lowes but I didn't get an answer so I assumed they were closed because of Easter. My wife called and got through so I went to Lowes to return that sink and buy a smaller one.

a bit nerve wracking to do
This counter cost close to 7 large ones and I was in no hurry to cut this out. I triple double checked myself 14 times and then I did it 3 more times. The sink isn't centered on the cabinet but it is centered on the window (my wife saw that). I didn't look at either one that much and concentrated on getting the hole within the interior of the sink base walls.

Next batter here is getting the faucet set installed (can't find it) and some new piping for the drain. I bought two kitchen strainers because nowadays you only get a sink and nothing else.

lid done
This lid fitting was a chore this time. I took my time with it and tried to look at both the rabbets and the width before deciding what to plane. I found a problem with the groove depth. I checked it with my 4" square and both grooves had a taper. I took the iron I used to plow the groove and used like a scraper to get the depth consistent end to end.

The astragals were planed after I got the lid sliding in and out easily. The thumb catch still needs to be done.

cut up some walnut scrap for plugs

the hard plugs to do
These plugs were like tiny half dovetails. I sawed out a big shape like this and trimmed it to fit with a chisel.

the easy ones
These plugs are wedge shaped to fit the slope of the tails but they are rectangular and much easier to trim and fit.

trimming the plugs flush
the box is this close to getting the finish
Planing the sides and cleaning them up is all that is holding up the finish. I should be done with this to give to Manny by wednesday.

I thought I would have time to work on the bookcase but I didn't feel like it. After I got back from having the Easter lunch with my wife, I finished the box and shut the lights out.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What did the french engineer Louis Reard create in june 1946?
answer - the bikini

everything but the kitchen sink.......

Sun, 04/16/2017 - 3:30am
I did a lot of different things today and it seemed like the only thing I didn't do was the kitchen sink. But the kitchen sink comes tomorrow. I'll be doing the cutout for it and maybe even the plumbing depending upon what is in the box. It's a two bowl sink so I'm hoping that at least the basket strainers come with it. Wish me luck on it because this will be my first one ever.

lumber haul
After OT today I went to Pepin Lumber to get some 1x12 stock to make my wife's bookcase. Pepin didn't have any 1x12s so I bought five 1x10s and one 1x4. Don't know why I bought the 1x4 other then it is rift sawn. I also decided by the time I got home that I wasn't gluing up boards to get the width I needed. By the time I quit the shop, three of the five boards had cupped. I'm sure that I'll be able to use these for something else.

1/4" thick solid banding
I bought several lengths of cherry and walnut 1/4" solid wood banding from Tico Vogt. I was going to use this on my work stand up desk.

it was going to hide the plywood edges
I am not using the plywood to make the desk. I want to use solid wood so I don't need the plywood nor the solid wood banding. None of this will go to waste but will be repurposed somewhere else.

fixing my problem pin and tail corner
Just a hint of a pencil line on the back side and it appears I missed some on the front.

now the tails are seated in the pin sockets.
still a bit proud but not as bad
sizing the plywood bottom
Found a small pine scrap that fits in the groove for the plywood bottom.

perfect measuring stick

a little fussing and the bottom was fitted
I was going to glue this up here and almost forgot to plow the groove for the sliding lid.

it's square
The plywood fits good in the groove all around. I like to use the plywood to help with squaring up the box. The plywood is dead nuts 90 at all four corners. Since it's plywood, I don't bother allowing for expansion and contraction. I still haven't been bit on the arse not doing that.

it fits
This is the iron I am using to plow the groove for the lid and I'm sharpening it before I use it. My 1/4" chisel won't fit in this but this iron which is thinner than a 1/4" does.

making a test groove
It took me 3 tries before I was happy with the test groove aligning where I wanted it on the box.

groove plowed
I went with straight through grooves. Manny likes walnut so I'll plug all the holes with that.

thin web left
I thought I had finally got the groove to be right on the edge but it wasn't so. I will make a shallow one pass rabbet on the bottom of the lid to compensate for this.

cleaned up the interior and now I'm ready to go to glue up
exit end of the lid groove
the entry end
I am sure glad that I checked this one last time before I started the glue up. My typical tapered cut and this would have cause a lot of problems come time to fit the lid.

small router won't fit
second hiccup
I usually leave the plow plane set up and I don't break it down until after I glue up. Today I had a mind fart and didn't do that. Now I have to set it back up to complete the tapered groove.

didn't move these two
The depth shoe and the iron are still set to what they were when I did the groove. I just have to set the fence and that was easy to do. Put the plane in the groove and slide the fence up to the edge and tighten it down.

what I should have done
The plane will stay set up while I glued the box up. Once it was glued I broke the plane down and stowed it.

no cutout look of the base
I like this look but it is an awfully long flat surface that has the potential to be off from it's mate slightly. Having four smaller bearing points is better and would be easier to correct for any rocking.

bookcase on my desk
I am going to copy this detail and use it on the walnut bookshelf.

glued up with hide glue
No need for clamps as the dovetails are snug enough to hold the box together as it set up. I set this aside until tomorrow. I roughed sized the with of the lid too and left the length long. I'll try to finish this tomorrow depending upon how the kitchen sink goes.

pit stop for some sheet rock work
My wife is fixing the holes that Manny had to make to do his electrical work last sunday. She needed two circles and 3 square and rectangular pieces. She is very good at patching these and has the patience of a saint doing it.

needed a pattern
I made a exact copy of the ash base in 1/4" plywood. I used the is draw my cutout ideas on and I then used it to trace it on the ash bases.

cleaned up with a rasp, spokeshave, and 120 grit sandpaper

handy biscuit gadget
This is the last thing I bought from Rockler about ten years ago. It will mark the center of #0, #10, and #20 biscuits and show the arc the saw blade cuts for each. That is what I was interested in here. I didn't want the saw slot blowing through at the front or the rear. I got it set so that was a 1/4" in from each end.

I was able to get 3 #20 biscuits in the base
small reveal on the inside
The reveal on the outside is wider and that is what I wanted. The one on the inside won't be see once the drawer goes in.

got my four smaller bearing points
checking the measurement scale - set at 1"
1" from the bottom of the fence to the center of the saw blade
cleaning up the outside of the ends
Once the base gets glued on it will be difficult to clean the them especially at the bottom. This is the first time that I have used walnut on a project and it is a nice wood to work. The grain on this is kicking my butt and laughing at me. The grain reverses on the left and the right side doesn't reverse but it won't clean up neither.

On the right side I tried the #3, the card scraper, the #80 scraper and got nowhere with them. The grain was fuzzy feeling after I used each one. I was making good shavings but the surface felt like sandpaper. The 220 grit sanding block I bought gave the best results and left a somewhat smooth surface.

Another thing the sanding block did was to highlight grain 'pockets'. It left areas where the grain looked rough but felt smooth. They were hollow areas and I used the card scraper to remove as much as I could. I had to be careful here because I didn't want scrape a bigger hollow trying to remove the grain problem.

glue ups suck
Gluing this up was a better torture than a water drip on your forehead every thought of being. I totally missed the bottom bases being tapered. I kept the cutoffs from the tapered tops and it was fun clamping the bases on without a cut off to help. I didn't have a lot of time to do this because I used yellow glue. I have never used hide glue on biscuits and I didn't want this to be my first time. This will be allowed to hog the bench until it has set up tomorrow.

glad I saved the cutout waste
trying a fix
The arm on my glasses broke. My backups are too strong to wear (my cataracts changed the prescription) . I can see close but anything greater than 5-6 feet is blurry. I went to the optical shop and ordered a couple of pairs of glasses but I won't get them for a couple of weeks. I am going to try and epoxy the arm back on. I got nothing to lose here and my fingers are crossed that it will work.

three 2x4 sheets of plywood
The plywood I had bought to use to make my computer desk at work will now be my wife's new bookcase. It will be 48" high, 30" wide, and 11" deep. Two of the cut up sheets will make the carcass and the last one will give up two shelves. I'll need one more sheet to make at least one more shelf and possibly two.

the carcass
This is going to be a tablesaw project. The bookcase will most likely get painted too. I will make the rabbets for the top, bottom, and back on the tablesaw and nail it together with my finish nailer.

This is the first piece of plywood I bought to make my stand up desk and it bowed. I am going to try and get a couple of shelves out of this hopefully. The plan is to glue and nail a piece of  rabbeted solid wood to the front and use that to take the bow out. Along with the weight of the books it should flatten it out and keep it that way.

1x10 pine
I think I can get all  the banding needed to cover all the plywood edges on the bookcase from this one board. If not I have four others awaiting their turn.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Danuta Rosani?
answer - he was the first Olympic athlete to be disqualified for taking drugs (1976 Montreal Olympics)

pizza night......

Sat, 04/15/2017 - 12:49am
It was a tough choice to make tonight, whether to go out for fish 'n chips, or order in pizza. Since it was after 1700 we opted for pizza. The driving force for pizza was me being in my shop clothes and not wanting to change to go out. Driving in 1700 rush hour traffic wasn't in my top ten list of things I wanted to do neither.

Came to a stop on the walnut bookshelf. If the bookshelf is placed on the bases dry, it doesn't rock. I like the big solid look of the bases with out any cutouts. What I don't want to bet the ranch on is that  gluing the bases on to the ends won't introduce any twist or some other stupid wood trick that will throw it off kilter enough to make it rock. I will probably make a cutout but I'm going to sit on making that call for a day or two.

worked on the sliding lid box
 Laid out the tails on the pin board and sawed them out. I am good on sawing the top square and sawing on or off the line. What I am not doing so good on is the plumb cut. I follow the plumb for about a 1/3 of the way going down and then go off slightly off the line as I saw to the baseline. So far I have been going off the line into the waste.

I've been doing dovetails now for about 6 years and I have slowly gotten better and better doing them. I've had to address, train, and practice for other things that I wasn't doing right with them and I'll do the same with this. I tried to deal with only one issue at a time if I could and now sawing plumb is the next culprit.

I'm happy with my sawing of the tails and the half pins. My chiseling of the waste is ok but it's something that I can't be complacent about. Because that has a habit of biting me on the arse. Fixing the out of square plumb cuts is easy to do with a chisel, but I want to saw the pins plumb the first time.

batting next
I want to get into the habit of sharpening the tools I'll need to work with before hand. The far left chisel I did last night and I just stropped it tonight. The other two I sharpened, honed, and stropped tonight. I was able to raise a burr on the coarsest diamond stone on both chisels. I also checked for any light areas but I did not see any. The entire bevel was shiny on the both of them.

waste chopped out
I cleaned out the sockets and the moment of truth awaits.

off the saw
As many times as I have done this, I hope I never tire of it. There is something magical about this for me where sawing and chiseling different shapes come together and four of the six sides of a box are done.

The right side on the pin board is a bit proud and I'll have to look why that is.

I have a couple of tight pin/tail connections that are keeping the pin board from seating.

the back looks good
the left side too
I just have one corner to look at and fix on this.

flushing the bottom
Making the groove for the bottom is next and I need the bottom to be flush all around before I do that. One thing I want to try is making the groove first and then doing the tails and pins. Doing it on a shop box is a good one to try it out on.

x marks the bottom where the groove will go
Since I planed off all my reference marks, I lightly penciled in another set at the corners.

depth and distance for the groove set
I used to have a wooden fence on this that I need to fix or replace. It has a slight twist in it that I need to remove. I've been using the plow plane without it and I don't really miss it. I thought that having an auxiliary fence would make plowing grooves a lot easier. I don't see a big difference between having the fence and not having a fence. A fence does help keep the plane in line as you are starting and exiting but with a little extra attention I can do it sans the fence.

doubled up
The ends, and especially the front, are not wide enough to be caught in the dogs. By doubling them up I got enough hanging off the bench and still secure so I can plow the groove. I'll do the same for the long sides when their time comes.

had to move the scrap
I noticed the scrap bending after the end moved while I was trying to plow the groove. I moved the setup to what it is here. I finished plowing the grooves for both pieces without any more hiccups.

time to quit
I'll do the sides tomorrow and I should be able to get this glued and cooking too.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Captain Hanson Gregory invented this. It has neither weight nor density and it can be seen but not felt. What did he invent?
answer - the donut hole

thanx Peter......

Fri, 04/14/2017 - 12:20am
Biscuits will join the ends of the bookshelf to the bases. It isn't a simple matter of just plunging biscuits slots into the two. The bases are thicker than the ends so I have to account for that offset. Trying to figure out how to do it was giving me a headache. At this point in the game I didn't want to risk screwing up because I couldn't think this through spatially.

Peter left a comment explaining how to do it and although I didn't see it right away, I did after thinking about it. I was able to mentally picture doing it and it worked that way. I just have to figure out how to set the biscuit machine to the centerline of the ends. Thanx for the comment Peter and sharing the fix for all to read.

I have to make a copy of this but in solid wood
found a piece of ash
This is too good of a piece to use to practice making a biscuit slot. I'll just have to take my time and make sure I'm not in La-La Land when I do the deed.

If I understand what Peter said
The plywood is the reveal I want on the outboard face of the base.

the biscuit joiner has to be set to the center of the end
This is the unknown to me. I never read the instruction manual for this machine nor do I understand what the measurement scale is for on the side. Every time that I have used this I did it by eye and trial and error.

the second biscuit cuts
After the slots are done on the ends, the bases are next. Those are made without the plywood spacer.  This cut will be further into the base from the edge by the thickness of the plywood spacer. Exactly what I wanted to do but couldn't figure it out.

practice piece of pine for centerline practice
It is only 11/16" thick but I should be able to get close to the centerline.

set at 5/8"
I think I figured out what the measurement scale is for. It is the distance from the bottom of the fence to the center of the saw blade. I think. It looks like that is what it is indicating.

red line is aligned with the centerline
The measurement on the scale is a couple of frog hairs over 3/8". With the pine being less 3/4", I would expect it to be a few frog hairs shy of 3/8".

The pencil line is an eyeball line but I can the slot is a wee bit over the center.

tried to get the centerline with the spacer
I split it this time
Starting to gain some confidence that this will turn out to be no brainer to execute.

lines up
That pencil mark was made off the centerline from the pine and the plywood spacer. The slot from the biscuit joiner falls right on it. Next up is seeing how many biscuits to use to where and to put them.

the reveal is different
With the lines aligned, the reveal is off but I expected that. The pine is over a 1/8" thinner than the ends. The important thing is what Peter told me do works. I was able to step through it and at each step I understood what I was doing.  I know this will work.

no light showing
Sharpening my 1 1/2" butt chisel left the two top outside edges looking like they weren't sharpened. That indicated to me that maybe the diamond stones might be no longer flat across their width. I don't know how precise this is but no matter where or how I positioned the ruler, I never got any light at all under  it. Maybe I'm flexing the width of the chisel somehow as I sharpen it? I checked all 3 of the stones in the wooden base with the same results.

almost forgot my new rule
The chisels were cutting and since I only had a few to do I would have probably kept on going. I need these 3 to chop the tail waste so I'll sharpen and hone them first. Then I'll chop out the waste.

the LN honing guide PITA
My Ashley Iles 1/4 and 1/8 inch chisels will not fit in the 'standard' jaws. I have to change them out and put on the small tool jaws.

raised a burr on all 3 on my coarsest diamond stone
After the coarsest stone I went through my other 3 diamond stone finishing up on the 8K japanese stone. I stropped all 3 chisels before chopping the waste. I also checked the outside corners and I didn't see any light or unsharpened spots. I had a shine on the entire bevel.

what a difference sharp makes
I'll do the pins tomorrow
something new to try
I got this at Lowes or Home Depot this past weekend. It was about $4 for the pkg (with two pads) and I decided to give it a try.

the bottom and top
Of the six surfaces, only the two ends don't have any sanding stuff on them. I'm curious to how well the hexagons will sand without making a lot of dips and hollows. I guess the channels are where the no clogging claim comes from.

found the lid
I found it on the washing machine and I have no idea how it got there. I have a bad habit of using stock earmarked for a project as scrap for some immediate need at hand. Especially so if it gets separated from the herd. I don't stop to think that maybe it is for something else and when I find it out I'm usually very unhappy about it. I am trying to keep these all together so I don't do that here.

This box will be getting a plywood bottom and due to it's size I'm going with 1/4".  I won't be gluing it to the bottom but it will be set in a groove along the inside bottom edge. Haven't decided yet on making stopped grooves or plowing straight on through.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Burleigh Grimes?
answer - A Hall of Frame MLB Pitcher who threw the last legal spitball in 1934

garbage day......

Thu, 04/13/2017 - 12:13am
Wednesday is put the garbage out curbside for pickup on thursday. I don't get much shop time so I
 try to do any errands on the way home on wednesdays too. Today I was under the gun to get the garbage curbside, ASAP, because  rain had been threatening to fall since lunch time. I'm too old, fat, and slow to run inbetween rain drops anymore.

the wife's bookcase is history
My wife got this from the clearance aisle at Target for $17.

what the holes looked like right out of the box
My wife told me the box didn't look like it had been opened but she thinks someone bought this, screwed up trying to put it together, and brought it back to Target. She was unfortunate to be the next person to buy it. I sawed up all the parts and put them in the shitcan. Whatever I can fit in it, the garbage man will take.

 sawed up some of this to go into the shitcan too
25 minutes later
I sawed up solid wood, plywood, fiberboard, and formica with a 8 pt crosscut saw. It sailed through everything without one whimper.

ready to go
I was surprised that I had an almost full bin of cardboard and paper to put curbside too.

test idea hit a roadblock
The only walnut I have the same as the ends are the two angled cut offs. I don't have any ash the same as the bases to use. It didn't happen tonight but I think the next idea will be to see how well I can set the biscuit machine on the centerline of some pine scraps.

made an angled saw cut on the right side
I like it but not this one
I think the angle clip is a better way to treat the end vice leaving it squared off. The angled cut gives it a somewhat finished look.

angle went too far
The other side of the miter ends past the molded edge. That makes the molded edge look like it is not finished and it is just hanging there.

second angle
This is what I am going with. I like the look of this and that the angled cut stops before the end of the profile. I can't explain it too well other then to say, between the two, I like this one better, best, and it's the winner.

had time to saw the tails
Force of habit caused me to grab this. It makes a kerf that is the same width as the dovetail and I used it to knife my square lines for the tails for the saw to run in. I stopped using this as a training wheel and I rely on my eye and the level of my sawing skills to saw a square line now.

tails sawn
I marked the baselines on the tail boards and sawed off the half pins. I'll chop the waste on these tomorrow.

used a chisel
I used the corner of the chisel and slowly removed the waste.

99% done
A portion of the wedge got glued to the slat and that required a delicate touch to remove it. I'm glad that it is on the underside of the slat.

small scraper cleaned it up
This is a waste cut off from saws that Issac Blackburn sells.  I bought ten of them from him in various sizes and they are real handy to have especially for tight spots like this.

time to quit
I was sweating pretty good from sawing up the wood in the backyard and I was getting it all over the bookshelf. This was a good time to shut the lights off.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many volumes are in the Pentagon Papers (the study of Vietnam War)?
answer - 47

another seashore shop night......

Wed, 04/12/2017 - 12:29am
I don't have anything cooking that needs my undivided attention now. Everything I have going in the shop I can leave or take as much time with as I want, if I want to finish it. I think it has to do with the last two days being absolutely top notch in my corner of the universe. Spring is almost here and the temp today hit 80°F at my house (27°C) which I think broke the record of 79°F set in 1955. I don't know what the official temp at Green Airport was but I'll find out tomorrow.

My wife bought a bookcase because she said she didn't want to wait for me to make one. She bought a knock down, vinyl covered sawdust and glue piece of crappola that she threw away. 6 of the 8 corner screws blew out so there was no way it could be put together. I told her no that I could not screw or glue it together. I am now making her a bookcase but she won't tell what style etc she wants but I know when it's done, it won't be to her liking. I've heard I'll like whatever you make too many times go south.  I'll get the wood for it and my computer work desk at the same time.

My split and repaired leg computer desk is working very well and instead of making the real one out of plywood, I am going to use solid wood. I would show pics of it in action but I am not allowed to take pics at work. I did not know that until it was pointed out to me.

awaiting the unclamping
I removed each clamp by turning it less than a full turn and it came off. The bookcase didn't relax or expand, nor was there are creaking or groaning. I take this as a sign that my joinery was good and the carcass stayed square as the glue set.

molded edge
I think this is just right and fits the scale of the shelf. I'm rethinking cutting the corners off at an angle because this look is growing on me. I will saw an angle on the test piece I molded so I can see what it looks like.

piece of maple
I can not see a big enough difference between the poplar and the maple 'white' color wise. The slats are at the back and with a full shelf of books, won't be seen. I might have used maple but the only maple stock I have is 3/8" thick. That is too thin to provide adequate support for the books.

this thought went south
I was thinking of not putting on the bases but sawing a small cutout on the bottom. With the angles I already have done, it would look off kilter. I would have to saw an angle on both ends and hope that they came out the same to harmonize it.

the angles look better sitting on the base
I could rent out that space to park cars
A drawer will be made to fill up this space. The next question is do I make it square or taper it to fit the space? I put the walnut bookshelf aside for now and turned to other things.

squared and got the box parts to length
from R to L
The right one was done first and it is smooth. The second one from the right is kind of chewed up and the last two are torn out. They are all square but not all smooth like the right one.

This is the tannic acid and I have mold are something else growing in it. It is also a lot darker than I remember it being in december. Maybe this is why I'm not getting a rich deep black color,

not even close
I put another application of tannic acid and the iron and nothing. Even wet the color is not getting the deep black of the cell phone holder. This will be the last attempt with this tannic acid. I will make a fresh batch and start over again. The iron looks to be done cooking and the tannic acid is mix and use right away.

checking my router plane sole
I couldn't find any dings or scratches anywhere on the sole itself. The slots in the base are kind a sharp but I couldn't feel any bumps or burrs on them.

a wee bit rough in this area on both sides.
jewelers files
I bought these while I was in the navy and I don't use them that often. I need them now and I have a boatload of profiles to pick from and use.

used a flat and a round file
There were a few small burrs here and I'm not sure if they were in the way or not. I filed this area and the big circular opening too.

filed and sanded the arris on the slot on both sides
I still will spend a few calories sanding and polishing the sole. That will be put on the B list to done whenever.

noticed something tonight
The top and middle box I just made and the bottom box I made in 01/2015.

same detail
I thought the astragal detail and the slant front edge I put on the top two boxes was original. Turns out that it is old news.

my other router plane
This one feels just as good on the sole and the slot up behind the iron has no burrs or other hiccups. The slots for the fence are as sharp as the other router though.

laid out the tails for the next sliding lid box
I blew out a chip on this corner that I have to glue before I continue. It must have happened when I squared the ends.

back to the bases
I am going to biscuit the bottom of the ends to the base. If I use screws I'll be going into the end grain so that isn't an option.  Dowels are another choice but I have never had any luck even lining up two dowels. This would need a minimum of two in each base. Biscuits are the lead off batter.

both ends are close in thickness
They are almost dead nuts flush with each other. You certainly can't see any difference in the thickness by looking at them.

the reveal
Rather than go nutso trying to get an even reveal on both sides, I am going to make the outside reveal the same. The inside reveal will probably be hidden by the drawer so if there is any fudging I'll do it there.

now comes the hard part
Trying to figure out how to get the biscuit slots in the right place on the base and the bottom of the ends is making me feel like I have an IQ that didn't make it out of  the single digits. There is a 3/16" reveal between the outside edge of the base and the edge of the end. I can't seem to wrap my head around how to do it correctly.

make a slot in the base
This one I think should be centered. Check.

do I center the one on the ends?
If I do it this way, will the reveal be the same on both? For some reason I want to use a 3/16" spacer somewhere but would that put the biscuit slot to close to outside edge on the ends? I would like to be able to walk through this in my mind with out hallucinating and having bad dreams at night. I think I will solve it by brute force. I have enough scraps that I can make at least 4 practice runs to figure it out.

I haven't forgotten the clock
I can not get over the fact that this almost $100 movement has plastic @#^(%%$#^^&;@))(*&^$%#@ hands. I ordered more hands from two other clock companies and they don't fit. I'm stuck using the plastic crap that came with movement. I brought the box upstairs and maybe one these nights after the blog is written, I'll cry and put the hands on.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the state flower of the State of Massachusetts?
answer - the mayflower

walnut bookshelf pt III.........

Tue, 04/11/2017 - 12:23am
Had an easy night in the shop tonight where I felt like the sea washing up on shore and then slowly falling back. No rhyme or reason guiding me nor anything shouting out to be done. I didn't rush in what I did do but just let unfold. If I got it done ok, if not, ok there too.

started here
I did this first because I remembered a pic from yesterday's post still showing the square line on this end. Most of it was buried but 3/4" of the shelf projects beyond the end and it showed.

have to make the back slats the same length
I used this piece of 1/4" plywood to raise the slats up so the so the iron would be shaving with a new spot on the iron.

without the plywood piece I was getting dust
with the plywood piece - wispy shavings
The iron in the shooter is already dull and needs to be resharpened. This worked for the 1/2" slats but it isn't something I want to do for everything I have to shoot. Maybe I will get a better edge that lasts longer if I sharpen the iron on waterstones. Could be the impetus for making a ramped shooting board too.

decided to do the angles first
I tried to think about sawing the angles after the glue up and it got real ugly in my mind way too quick. I did the cuts now and I'll deal with the clamping when it comes. I did all the layout for the angles based on 2". The front angle starts 2" up from the top of the dado is 2" in from the top front edge. The top angle starts 2" up from the top of the top back slat and ends 2" down from the top front.

I planed the front cuts smooth and square now but I left the top rough as the came off the saw. I'll do them after I glue the bases to the ends.

labeled the top cutoffs
I left these rough because I want that to help keep them from slipping when I use them to clamp the bases on.

first molding choice
I am doing something wrong because the shoulder at the top is tapered. Molding this edge in the walnut was a silky smooth adventure. Easily done, no tear out, no stalling or digging in, one smooth fluid stroke end to end. I was able to fix the taper when I made another practice run on the opposite side. I wasn't shifting pressure to the front end as I moved away from the right going left.

 bigger profile
This is very similar but I don't like the scale of it. I am going with the first one I picked.

using hide glue
need gap filler
The bookshelf is glued and together but not clamped. I want to get the gap filled in the middle back slat before I clamp it. Just noticed that the wedge will be end grain and I wanted face grain. Sawed the wedge at the wrong spot. It is the middle bottom slat so it won't be that visible.

tapped it home
After this has set up I will chisel or knife or saw the excess away. Actual removal method to be determined.

checking for clearance
I looked at the squared off ends of the shelf and I'm not hating them but I'm also not asking them to dance with me. I think clipping them off at an angle, not necessarily a 45°, will tidy up the ends.

keeping an eye on my clamping pressure
The bottom slat bowed about an 1/8" in the middle but the square had contact with all 3 just about everywhere else I checked it.

edge protectors
I have found out the painful way that the weight of these bessey clamps and the serrations in the bar will leave indentations in the wood if it rests upon the edge. I don't want anything to mar the show edges of the bookshelf.

road test with my largest hardcover book
road test with an average size book.
I was hoping that the average sized book would have been behind the molding edge. It looks like if I hadn't molded the edge, it would have been.

Still haven't come with a way to attach the ends to the bases. I'll have to think of something by tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many clubs is a pro golfer allowed to carry in his bag?
answer - no more than 14 (there is no minimum)

walnut bookshelf pt II........

Mon, 04/10/2017 - 1:22am
The queasy visitor I had yesterday went south overnight which was welcomed by me. It seems the older I get the more I feel like crappola over almost nothing. Especially so over things that never bothered me even 5 years ago. So far the good days are still out numbering the bad ones.

last shelf dado done
It was a lot better feeling doing this dado over the other one I did yesterday. I got as good of a fit on this side too. The shelf fits the dado tightly at the front where it is very visible. The corners will be clipped at a 45° and I am thinking of molding some kind of an edge detail with one of my molding planes.

serendipitous goof
 I chopped the dado on the wrong side of the line. The shelf should be closer to the ash base. But this will work in my favor because I'll get to do something I had planned on doing on one of these. The bottom of the shelf is 3 1/4" high and that is enough room to put a drawer. This is what I had wanted to do but had nixed it. Now I will be doing it because I need something here to knock down the height of the shelf and fill that big empty space underneath it.

my only piece of walnut
The length on this is good but the width is a little short at 1 1/2". I want something closer to 2 1/2 to 2 3/4". Unfortunately for me the only readily available source of walnut is the exorbitant priced stuff at Home Depot. It will take some time thinking before I pull the trigger on buying that.

the bases are too long
I want these to be an inch longer than the sides are wide. I will have to saw off 2" to shorten these.

looks better to my eye
I will also do a shallow cutout on the bottom so the contact area won't be so long. There will be less of a chance of it rocking and it will be easier to correct if there are 4 smaller contact points.

squaring up the back slats
The mortise depth for the slats will be the same as the depth of the bookshelf. The slats will be the same length as the bookshelf is.

I was wrong
Sharpening this small router iron is the hardest one I have to do free hand. It is a lot harder to do then the large router irons. It was difficult to grip and keep it straight as I tried to sharpen it. The next time I do this I'll have to allow extra minutes to do this.

back slat mortises laid out and ready to be chopped out
bit of a gap I don't want
I have two ways to fix this that come to mind. The first is glue in a walnut chip or secondly, make a new back slat oversized in the width. Then plane both ends to fit in their respective sides. I think gluing a chip in the gap will be the lead off batter.

couldn't find a book
The dry fit appears to be ok. The fit of the parts are all good with the exception of the one gappy back slat.

got a good fit
I'm rethinking ebonizing the back slat. With the bookshelf dry fit, I'm liking the look of the whiteness of the poplar back slats against the walnut. Along with not ebonizing the  back slats, I'm thinking the same for the bases. I like the color contrast a lot between the two. Since I would have to wait before ebonizing this, I have time to make a decision on it.

The middle and top slats are bowed and there is a gap between them and the square. I relaxed clamps a half turn and most of the gap disappeared.

double checking my depth
The router left a hump in the middle of the mortise that I had to chisel flat. That was because the mortise length wouldn't allow for router to work from both sides. The router iron ended up on the middle point of the mortise so I couldn't plow an even depth from there to outsides. A couple of the mortises had high corners that I chiseled flat. I think doing this and not being ham fisted with the clamps will get rid of the bowed back slats.

 1 1/2" butt chisel
This the chisel I used to make the dadoes and the mortises. There is a burr or metal folded back onto this side on the right and a little bit on the far left. It is still sharp and cutting without a lot of effort but this is something I wasn't expecting to see after one use.

light reflected off the top
The bevel doesn't go right to the end but instead it looks like it has a flat. I have seen this when I didn't raise a burr and still thought I had sharpened it.

see the light areas on the two outside corners
I couldn't raise a burr on the coarse diamond stone so I went to the 80 grit runway and raised a burr right away. These two light areas showed up after I got to the second diamond stone.

no light areas from the 80 grit
tiny bit of light
I was able to take a few extra strokes and the light areas went away. This is my coarsest diamond stone.

my coarse diamond stone
The light areas showed up here and got more pronounced by the time I got to the 8K japanese stone. I could get rid of them if I tilted the iron up onto the corner and stroked away. I sharpened this the way I did the first time and I'll use it as it is. Maybe this is why I can't raise a burr on the coarsest diamond stone but I have to use the 80 grit runaway.

3 more boxes
One of these boxes will be a sliding lid box and the other two will be open ones. A friend of mine came today with his son and did some electrical work for me. He installed a light and 3 outlets and only charged me $150 for over 4 hours work. He came to the shop and saw my boxes and he really liked them. I didn't have an extra one to give to him so he'll be getting these when I finish them.

playing with the angles
I put a curve on the top but I don't think it goes with the overall look. Instead I will go with the two angled cuts. If I don't cut them now I'll have to do after it is glued up. Doing it then will be a PITA but doing it now and then clamping it after it has been glued will be a bigger PITA. Something else to mull over.

kind of ready to glue up
Along with all the other stuff that will give me headaches, I still haven't picked a way to attach the feet to the bases.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first captain of the Starship Enterprise NCC-1701?
answer - Robert April

started the walnut bookshelf.........

Sun, 04/09/2017 - 3:03am
Today was another day where I felt blah. It started the night before with a italian sausage grinder with peppers, cheese, and onions I had for dinner. Next to fish and chips there isn't a finer thing to eat in this world. Well that grinder decided to go nutso in my insides and make me pay for eating it. I hardly got any sleep and doing my overtime this morning was an adventure in fighting the urge to toss my cookies. That didn't happen but it was a very uncomfortable feeling especially when it lasts seemingly forever. It did slow me down in the shop today big time.

layout for the shelf and back slats
I put the ends in the vise and squared the back to the bottom and across the faces. The shelf is referenced off the bottom and the back slats off the bottom and the sides.

3 back slats
The slats are 1 1/2" wide and a 1/2" thick.  The bottom slat is 1" up from the top of the shelf and there is 1 1/2" between them. These slatsboards are just for showing  the layout. I bought 1/2" poplar at Lowes on the way home from work this morning.

not black yet
I put on a coat of tannic acid and I let that dry before I put the iron on.

before I do the shelf dadoes I need to finalize the length of the shelf
I would have liked to have the shelf as long as the board is here. But it is only 3/4" thick and I don't want it to sag. The shelf will be about 24" long after I saw it to length. I need the shelf done because I need it to mark the dado walls.

not rubbing here
The square is tight and rubbing for about half the length, When it gets to the foreground edge, it is free wheeling and not touching the end. The shelf has to be dead square because the front edge will be visible in the dado. Don't want ugly looking gaps staring back at me.

I left the line
After fussing with it, planing and checking several times, I go it square. The square was tight to the end and dragging equally across it. This layout line will be buried in the dado and won't be seen.

stopped here
One thing I am remiss in doing is sharpening or touching up tools before I start working on project. I will stop and sharpen a tool as I am working if it gets dull. This is the chisel I use to chop dadoes and it is also the one I keep it out on the bench for when I need a chisel for whatever. I thought of the tools I would be using on the build today and I'm sharpening the chisel first.

I remember the last time I sharpened this and I had to establish the bevel and raise a burr on it on the 80 grit runway. I tried raising the burr on the coarsest diamond stone and got nowhere. A couple of minutes of back and forth and not even a hint of a burr. This is one aspect of sharpening that befuddle the crappola out of me.

I use a honing guide and a set up gizmo so the projection in the guide is always the same so why can't I raise a burr now? To my thinking, since I am doing all these dance steps, I should be able to raise a mountain of a burr on the coarse diamond stone. That didn't happen.

had to use the 80 grit runway
I can not figure out what I am doing wrong or if this is normal. Is something happening during use between sharpenings that causes the bevel to do some kind of unknown to mankind stupid trick? I don't mind having to go to the 80 grit runway but I expected it to be a one time trip only. Subsequent trips to the stones wouldn't need this and could be done on the coarse diamond stone.

the 4 1/2 iron
I will be using the chisel to chop the dadoes and the 4 1/2 will be my go to plane. Got the same dance card punched here too. Couldn't raise a burr on the coarsest diamond stone and I had to dance on the 80 grit runway. After a minute or so I only had a burr on the corners. It was a couple of minutes before I got a consistent burr.

the iron looks like it is laminated

thinking of making another strop
After seeing the size of Richard Maguire's runway strop and a few other large ones on You Tube, I think I'm going to make a longer one. I think I have enough leather here to get two out of it.

chewed up strop
When I come back for the return stroke after exiting the strop, I don't also clear then end. I'm getting better at avoiding this but it still occasionally happens. Maybe with a longer length this will stop altogether.

This is some impressive stuff. I put some of this on a couple of weeks ago and it still looks pretty good. I use this plane daily and there are few blemishes on it but overall it looks good.

it's been about an hour since I put on the tannic acid
The tannic acid was dry to the touch so I put on the iron. It is starting to turn this black and the tiger striping is toning down a lot.

the other side
This side of the ash piece had the tiger striping but it appears to be gone now. However, this is wet and I'll have a better idea of what it is really like when it dries.

forgot a tool
I forgot to sharpen the iron on my router plane. I know this is sharp from my last use so I am touching it up on the fine diamond stone and the 8K japanese stone. I didn't feel a burr on this but should I feel one on the finer stones? I have never bother to check for one on any of the router irons I have. Food for thought, eh?  This is the hardest iron for me to hold and sharpen freehand. I would pony up wads of american dollars to buy a honing guide for sharpening something like this.

a little too snug
The top side of the dado is very good looking and tight along it's length.

the bottom seam isn't as tight
I made all my adjustments to get this to fit on the bottom side of the shelf and the bottom wall of the dado.

something new
The router plane is making indents and scratchy things on the walnut. I am sure that I can get rid of these with the #80 but I'll have to smooth the sole of this router.

got to use my side rabbit planes
I used both of them. One I removed the front shoe so I could get right up to the back of the stopped dado. The other one I used to get the front end of the dado. They only hiccup I had was setting the depth. I initially set the depth too deep and the iron left a line at the bottom of the dado. The both of them worked well and the learning curve for their use was short.

this will have to wait until tomorrow
It took me over 6 hours to sharpen a few tools and make and fit one dado. Not one of my more productive days in the shop.

put another round of ebonizing on the test pieces
It is wet but I can see that it is finally turning black like I remember from December.

the other faces
Something to put away in the brain bucket for my next ebonizing outing. Let the steel wool and vinegar cook for at least a week before using it.

Salko Safic who writes the Journeyman Journal has been posting old catalogs that are available for download. He posted a Millers Falls Handbook for mechanics today and I found a ebonizing recipe in it. It calls for Yellow chromate powder and Logwood powder. That author wrote that it will ebonize most woods. I did a search for the two ingredients and I found Logwood powder but I haven't had luck with Yellow chromate powder. I'll keep looking because I want to try this one.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was George Armstrong Custer's rank when he was killed at the Little Big Horn in 1876?
answer - Lt Colonel  (he was a brevetted Major General in the Civil War)

fixed it......

Sat, 04/08/2017 - 1:07am
I kind of knew what was wrong last night but I can be a wee bit bull headed at times. I need to have the brain bucket rattled sometimes before I see the light. My journey to understanding more about sharpening continues and it is something that I have to learn not to take for granted anymore.

where I left off last night
I blew out a corner on one end that I glued and it set up overnight. The main problem is the squareness of the ends isn't 100%. I laid both pieces on the two legs and I didn't see any gaps. So in that respect you could say the end was flat and square. But a square on the ends showed a bit of light even though it looked square. The square didn't drag across the whole length of the end so I knew it could be improved.

no gaps
Other than the leg being too long for the end (it'll be trimmed), the end is solidly on it. It appears to be laying straight up and square so appearance wise it looks ok. I think I could continue on from here and build the book shelf without any major hiccups. I don't think I'm being too fussy with trying to get the ends dead nuts and that is what I'm shooting for (pun intended).

last night shavings
The second iron I put in the #8 was definitely sharper than the one it replaced. I had a freshly sharpened iron in the plane but I still felt like I was fighting it. There is a certain ease with using a sharp iron that was almost totally absent here. This is a feeling I know and was expecting here.

I only have two #8 irons
I decided to sharpen and hone both irons so I would have both of them starting from the same reference point.

opened a big ass box of brain food
started at ground zero
I flattened the backs again starting on the 80 grit belt. After the 80 grit I went to work on my coarse diamond removing the scratches from the 80 grit belt. I stopped after this and didn't use any of the other diamond stones.

raised a consistent burr
I got my initial burr on the back off of the 80 grit belt. From here I went to the diamond stones.

still have a consistent burr
I've been through the 3 diamond stones and the 8K japanese water stone on the right is the polishing stone. Once I'm done with that it is on to stropping and putting the iron in the plane.

2nd iron
It took 3 times as long to raise the burr on this iron as it did on the first one. I don't think I raised a burr on this when I first sharpened it. I completed sharpening this the same way as the first one. This is also the iron I swapped out on the #8 last night and used to get 'square' ends.

I want to stop using this
Now that I know I have raised a burr at the start of the sharpening and maintained it right up to the 8K, I want to stop using the 80 grit runway initially. The next time these #8 irons have to be touched up or sharpened I will try to raise the burr on my coarsest diamond stone.

big difference
The plane still wanted to go to the right but I was able to keep it up against the edge. I felt an ease pushing the plane from one end to the other. I also was able to almost go end to end in one push.

rough sawn end
This is a cutoff from the ends I'm using on the bookshelf.

3 swipes
As sharp as I thought the iron was last night, this one is much sharper and much easier to use. There is a small area by my hand that is lower than the rest of the edge and it didn't get planed. But there is a huge improvement in the look and feel of the rest of the end grain.

wispy shavings this time

re-squaring the ends
I am squaring the ends again now that I have a truly sharp iron in the plane.

shavings from re-squaring
These are not as thick as the ones I got last night. Tonight the iron is sharp and it is set about where I had it yesterday but the shavings are thinner and cleaner tonight. Sharp continues to fix a lot of sins.

dead nuts square now
The square drags across the entire end on both pieces. There is absolutely no light under the square and now I can say that they are 100% dead nuts square.

the top
The tops aren't even but it has no effect on the build. The bottom edge I just squared is the reference. The tops will be sawn at an angle after the dadoes are all done and a dry fit is ok. If the two angles are off  a wee bit it won't matter.

the black I'm shooting for
This is one the last pieces I ebonizied back in december. I've got a long ways to go to match that depth of black.

iron solution

This is starting to look like what I remember the december iron solution looking like. And it is starting to have a stronger apple cider smell that I recall also.

this is encouraging
My fourth application of tannic acid and iron and I am finally seeing a black color developing.

the opposite face
It doesn't like this face too much. There is a tiger stripe effect showing here. I thought of planing this to have a fresh face but it was planed before I started. Only this one face didn't turn black. I will keep applying the two to see if I can match the black from december.

poplar shows some tiger stripes
the other face is getting blacker
I am still leaning in the direction that I didn't let the apple cider vinegar and steel wool stew long enough before using it. I'll keep on slathering away with it and see what shakes out.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the french game called trictrac?
answer - backgammon


Fri, 04/07/2017 - 12:44am
I have been due one of these days for a while now. You know what it is like when everything you do turns to liquid fecal matter right up to your armpits. You are almost dead sure that everything is aligned as it should be. You look to see that the ducks are in a row and are getting picked off one at a time. Instead I'm missing everyone of them and standing here with a dumb expression on my face trying to figure out what is wrong. I quit the shop way earlier than I normally do because sometimes you have to know when to fold your hand.

where I started
The laying out went well. I didn't have any issues doing this. Other than not being able to stretch the width of the shelf a tiny bit wider, no hiccups here. All of these measurements are based on the bookshelf that I have on my desk. The only difference will be the wood used and the shelf will be 12" longer.

the shelf

the legs
The only parts missing are the 3 back slats. Those will be 1/2" poplar and I'll get them on saturday from Lowes.

big desk stock
I am still trying to think of a base for the big desk to come. I want something a bit beefier than the bridle joinery I used on the monitor stand.

H frame
My thoughts on this are to glue and screw the douglas fir to the plywood desk. Mortise both ends of the poplar stiles into it and use a bridle joint at the bottom of them. I want something that will be strong, resist sagging, and be light enough not to need a crane to move it.

these are too short for the front and back top rails
I am keeping all these on the bench so I can one, swear at them for being in my way, and two, so I'll have a constant reminder of what I need to do with them.

disappointed in this
This is not turning as black as I expected. And it is not as black as my last ebonizing adventure. This is two applications of iron and tanic acid. Maybe I should have let the iron part of this cook for longer than the 3-4 days I did before I used it. I think I waited a week the first two times.

I put a third application on tonight
Another thing I am doing different this time is I am not waiting 24hrs inbetween applying the iron and tannic acid solutions. I'm putting the tannic acid on followed by the iron right away.

this face side is weak looking

the opposite side is getting blacker
the poplar almost looks like the ash but not as bad
opposite face is black and I can still the grain
where the frustration started
3 planes and I could not get the ends of these two pieces of walnut square. I changed the iron in the #8 and still no luck. The ends looked like a roller coaster, nothing but hills and valleys from one end to the other.

Everything prior to this had been coming along nicely. No speed humps and other than my sharpening being OTL (out to lunch) for while, the hand tool woodworking was working. Tonight I tried all the right things. Or at least I think I was trying all the right things but my results weren't what they were supposed to be.

I tried planing the bottoms square in both directions with the 4 1/2 and the BU jack. It seems my ability to plane square to the face evaporated. I would correct for the out of square to the face and I would go out of square to long grain edges.

These boards are too big for my usual use shooting board so I got out the big ass shooting board. I tried to square the ends and got nowhere real quick. I was planing a roller coaster on the ends so I pulled the iron back to take a smaller cut. That just made the hills and valleys longer so I changed the iron. I still wasn't getting square but the hills and valleys were gone and I a slight hollow now.

the fence wasn't square to the track
The 12" square showed a slight gap going from the edge of the track along the fence for 6 or so inches. The really big ass square showed the gap gradually tapering from the track down the fence for about 12 + inches.

after one run the fence with the record 073 shoulder plane
The left side of the paper is where it won't fit between the fence and square. I took 3 more shallow passes with the shoulder plane and checked it again.

cut it in half
It took quite a few more passes before I closed the gap and it disappeared.

dead nuts square
I planed this piece of pine square but it was not as easy as I anticipated it being. I used the #8 and it was a wee bit difficult to keep the plane up against the end as I tried to plane it. I think part of the problem is I'm not used to squaring edges with the #8. The other one nagging at me is the iron in the plane. It has a shiny bevel but I am not sure if I had sharpened this and raised a burr or was still assuming I was getting a burr.

got the walnut ends squared
I only have to plane the bottoms square because the tops are getting sawn off at an angle. I need square and flat bottoms because all my measurements will be referenced off of them.

slightly out of square
I have to be fussy with this as the ends will be mated to the tops of the legs. Can't have gaps or have them leaning in or out on the finished product.

Fixing this was just a matter of adjusting the lateral adjust on the #8. And of course my first attempt made the out of square to the face worse. Then I planed the ends out of square. After I finally got the #8 lateral adjust set correctly, I planed one walnut board square in both directions. I was going to call it quits here and do the other side tomorrow but I did that one too. But it took a few tries because the #8 kept wanting to go to the right which makes hills and valleys.

I will sharpen the two #8 irons tomorrow and try this again. I'm not 100% sure that I sharpened the irons correctly so I will do it the way I now know it should be done. I was getting wispy shavings but I was fighting the plane and wood more than I thought I should. With a truly sharp iron, I should be slicing through the  ends in a more fluid way.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was the name of the chimpanzee in Edgar Rice Burroughs book about the Kings of the Ape (Tarzan)?
answer - Nkima (he was called Cheeta in the Tarzan movies)

now it's 100%........

Thu, 04/06/2017 - 12:14am
I haven't used it yet but the keyboard/mouse desk is done. Quick left turn on this. Exactly what should this be called? I think I've called it a desk, a stand, and a base throughout my blogging about it. What it is really is a shaker bench I shrunk the height on by about 6", so I guess I have another name for it. I think I'm going to call it a keyboard stand.

putting in the pencil tray
I didn't want to put in pencil lines because the shellac is already on the bottom. Then I thought of putting the tape on and using the woodpecker to make sure it was square to the edge.

the blue tape defines the outside edges of the tray
This worked well and I was able to line up the tray inside the tape and mark for the three screws. The brace for the legs played havoc with screwing the pencil tray down. I had to use an 14" long screwdriver to get screws in.

went with it set back
This needed something like this to remove any doubt that it is not a bench for little people. Having this pencil tray makes you look at it twice to decide what it is.

almost done here
I had to put one last coat of shellac on the tray so I also put another on the top and edges. I just have to wax it and this will go into the done column.

finished the last #4 iron
I have 3 spokeshave irons and two #4 Lie Nielsen irons left and I'll be all caught up.

did a spokeshave iron
I do freehand sharpening and spokeshave irons are one of them. I used Paul Sellers spokeshave iron holder to hold it but it is still freehand. This thing is a life saver because I would have real hard time doing it holding the iron with my fingers.

raised my burr on the coarsest stone
I made sure that I had a consistent burr across the entire edge before I went to the next stone. I road tested this on a piece of pine and what a difference. Before I had a shiny bevel and I couldn't make shaving no matter what I did. Now I still have a shiny bevel but this time I made a mountain of shavings. One down, and three more to go.

found my waterstones
I finally saw chapter 4 and 5 from Richard Maguire's sharpening video series.  He uses waterstones and a honing guide for doing his thick irons. He made a convincing argument for it for I dug my old waterstones out and I'll be using them again. I liked his water 'pond' which looked better than my old water system which was two 5 gallon buckets. I used one for rinsing the stones and the other to soak them. Richard uses a small wash basin for rinsing and for cleaning.

When I was using the waterstones I do remember them cutting well and giving up a better shiny bevel than my current setup. I also remember the mess they made so I'll be making something like Richard has to contain it. I only have a few thick A2 irons (and a two O1's too) so maybe this won't be too much of a PITA to use.

got time left to try out my ebonizing stuff
I found a scrap of ash (the bookshelf legs/base) and a piece of poplar (the back slats) to try this out and see what it looks like.

preconditioned the poplar
The poplar doesn't have tannin, as far as I know, but the ash does. I slathered some of the tanic acid on the poplar first (none on the ash) and waited about 10 minutes before I hit it with the iron solution.

it's been about 3 days (?)
There is/was some orange colored scum floating on the top so I think it's ready to try.

from Wally World
33 ounce bottles of apple cider vinegar for $1.50 each.  The Heisz apple cider vinegar I used before was 16 oz and $2 and big change for one bottle. Thanx Wally World.

not black but more brownish
the end grain is jet black
The ones I did with the citric acid solution looks better than these two.

tried the iron solution on these
I only put it on the left one and I am using the right one for comparison. The end grain on it went jet black right away.

Tomorrow I'll put on another coat and I'll start on the bookshelf.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many players on there on men and women lacrosse teams?
answer - men 10  women 12

Keyboard stand almost done......

Wed, 04/05/2017 - 2:29am
Tonight's work in the shop was almost all applying shellac. IAW (in accordance with) the new project criteria, this is not 100% yet. I may hit the 100% mark tomorrow but I think thursday is more likely. The other none finishing thing I got done in the shop was some planing and etc on the pencil tray holder.

steel wool dust
My preferred way to knock down shellac is with 4-0 steel wool. I have tried sandpaper from 320 to 600 grit but I like the feel left by steel wool over sandpaper. The downside to the happy feeling is dealing with the steel wool dust. Sweeping, using a tack cloth or brushing does not get it all and especially so not out of the nooks and crannies. I have found that two things work well - air or a vacuum cleaner. I think compressed air is best but the vacuum cleaner is more practical to use.

pencil tray
I put a 5° angle on the tray and if it doesn't work out I'll replace it. The tray is oversized in the length so I can saw that out and reuse it. I will have to make a new holder though  because I can't plane the 5° off of the top.

where to place it?
I tried it here and I don't think it interfered with using the keyboard or the mouse. I'm not sure that I like it hanging out so forward like this. The other option I'm entertaining is putting the front edge of the tray even with the front edge of the top.

carefully clamped and planed it
 I used the block plane because I just sharpened it.

adding some wooden nails aka toothpicks
I am sure that the epoxy would hold the pencil tray together without any hiccups. Putting in a few 'nails' can't hurt the cause. Screws are out because they would be going into end grain. I got all four of the nails I needed out of this one toothpick. I put one at each corner.

16th bit is too small
It took four tries before I got the right bit. 3/32" was a tiny bit over but I think the glue will swell the toothpick and close the hole.

wrote the drill bit size on the container for next time
one coat of shellac
This is getting 3 full strength coats of shellac with a steel wool rub down with wax after #3.

about 5 feet away
You can't tell that this leg is split. The dark line between the bottom of the tenon and the top of the arc is a missing chip. From here it looks like  wood grain.

I think one more coat will do it
better pic of the bevel
I didn't forget about doing my 20-30 strokes to remove these.

put down a brand new 80 grit belt
finally got it
I can't see any dips or chips along the edge from either side. I have a continuous burr from side to side too. I will finish sharpening this tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What country is Agatha Christie's detective Hercule Poirot from ?
answer - Belgium

I think it worked.......

Tue, 04/04/2017 - 1:28am
I didn't want to jump into unclamping the keyboard base when first went to the shop. I have a lot of calories invested in it and this fix was iffy. If this epoxy route didn't pan out, I was SOL.  There isn't any way I could make a replacement leg easily. I might get the twin tenons right but I would also have to make a through tenon for the brace. No fixy and I was looking at making a whole new thing.

the cheese curl isn't what is supposed to be in focus
When I snapped this pic the edge of the iron looked to be in focus. This is the fourth iron I started to sharpen on sunday. This edge had four chips in it and it now has 2.  Three of the four were kind of small and I had one large one. Hand grinding chips out of a bevel is mindless torture that seemingly takes forever to get done.

a little each night
Rather then spend an ton of hours grinding this, I decided to do a little bit each night. Nothing nutso but 20-30 strokes and set it aside till the next night. I figure it'll take till the weekend before I get all the chips removed.

can't delay it any longer
Time to see if I have to pay the Piper or whether there will be joy and rejoicing in Mudville.

happiness in Mudville
I shook the crappola out of this by holding it in as many different ways as I could. Nothing happened. The leg didn't split again and it isn't rocking on bench.  That is the good news and now the not so good news. I have to figure out some way to clamp this so I can file the screw heads. Using one hand to hold it and one to file doesn't yield good results. I also have to clamp in such way that I don't stress it and cause the leg to split for the final time.

what I came up with
I had just enough clearance for the brace to clear the underside of the bench. With it clamped kitty corner there isn't any stresses or forces acting on either leg. It took me less then 10 minutes to file all six screw heads.

this sucks
I set this screw a frog hair too deep and I couldn't file the slot completely out. When I put the pencil tray on I'll make sure this is at the back. It should be covered by the keyboard or at least hidden.

not a top ten choice
Because of the filed screw heads I didn't want to risk planing the top. I sanded the entire thing with 120 grit and that was it.

I didn't sand this
 Both ends are off the saw. I planed the short 45 clips and they look good. I want the same look for the ends.

big improvement - took 4 swipes
the leg that split
There isn't any hiding this. I am leaving this as it is - just sanded.

epoxied the pencil tray to holder
while the branding iron heated up, I put on the shellac
3 coats of a 1/2 lb cut of shellac
I got to put one more coat on the underside of the top. I had to hold off on that until the branding iron was hot enough to burn my mark on the bottom. Tomorrow I'll put a couple of coats of 2lb cut on it and this will be done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who designed the Gateway Arch in St Louis?
answer - Eero Saarinen

it split again........

Mon, 04/03/2017 - 12:42am
Everything was going along swimmingly until the keyboard stand leg split again. In spite of that I managed to get a lot accomplished. I fixed the split, made a pencil tray holder, sharpened three irons and started on a 4th, and most important (according to my wife), I got the new counter in place on the cabinets. Cutting out for the kitchen sink will be done next weekend.  And also squeezed in 3 loads of laundry, made two road trips, but no ice cream break today. Oh almost forgot, I waxed the monitor stand (I'll bring that to work tomorrow) and worked some on the new bookshelf.

out of the clamps at oh dark thirty
It looks good and nothing moved when I took the clamps off.  If this look familiar it should. I have made 5-6  full sized benches in this style. Why reinvent the wheel when something works and I just can shrink it?

all the tenons are 3 frog hairs proud
The stand isn't rocking at all. That is a nice thing and I'll take it. Fixing a rocking anything can be a pain.

not twisted
This is all I could do now because my wife and daughter were still checking the insides of their eyelids for light leaks. It was over an hour and a half before I got back to the shop.

removing the proud
The chisel was working but it was just a wee bit too much to remove with it. The block plane iron was dull and it was barely making dust.

I don't think enough emphasis is placed upon raising a burr when sharpening. No matter what system you use, free hand or with a guide, you have to raise a burr first. That is what I did here first on my coarsest stone and went through the rest of regimen I use. Getting a burr was something I was nonchalant about and I assumed I had one because I use a honing guide.

sharp fixes a multitude of sins
 6 swipes and it is flush and smooth as a baby's butt.

good fit on these two
flush but gaps on this side
this came out better than I expected
clipping the corners
I usually round the corners but on this I decided to do a 3/4" 45°.

sawed two from the top and two from the bottom like this

pencil tray
There a piece of poplar underneath that brown-tan veneer. I had cut this out to to use on something else but it was too short. It will now be made into a pencil tray.

the first side with the veneer planed off
the opposite side
my biggest hollow is a #7
I need a half circle for the pencil tray and this is working but it will take a while and a few more swipes.

this worked rather well
This is my third time using a hollow and it looks like 3 is the charm with molding planes too. My first two attempts ended up in the firewood pile.

good looking half circle
opposite end
This end is bigger and deeper. I am being consistent with my planing. I planed my usual taper from right to left. I fixed it by turning the tray 180 and planing from the high end to the low end.

pencil tray holder
I couldn't think of a way to make a pull out drawer that I liked so I went with this. This will hold the tray downward at a 5° angle.
dovetails glued and clamped
I got the holder dry clamped to the pencil tray so it will be set once the glue sets up.

One more swipe caused this. I had it in the vise and I was planing the edges on the top and the legs and it couldn't handle the stress.

epoxy to the rescue
The center brace got pulled out too and that got epoxied and clamped too. I'll have to wait until tomorrow to see if this is finally fixed. If it splits again, I'll admit defeat and make a new leg.

another piece to glue on
I put 3 screws in on this side and I'll do the same on the opposite side tomorrow.

file the screws flush
you get the idea
This is where the mouse will be used and it won't work well with 3 screw head speed bumps in the way. I'll have to wait to file them flush and then they will look like big round brass dowels.

broken piece glued on
The blue tape was used first to hold the piece in the right place. Then the clamp was put on to apply pressure to the joint.

sizing the ends
I got a tip from Jim(?) when I made the xmas gift holders about sizing the end grain first. After the end grain was sized I could then epoxy the parts together. I am going to epoxy the holder to the pencil tray. I can't think of another way to do this that would work as well as this.

working on the book shelf
This was loads of fun. The two outside edges reversed themselves from the center field. It was a pain flipping it and trying to remember if I was planing in the right direction with the grain or not.

had to use the #80
I forgot a few times and planed against the grain and paid the price with tear out.

this helped but only when I did it
ugly looking tear out
I got lucky with this even though it is deep because on this board I had to remove over an 1/8". This tear out came courtesy of my scrub plane. I was using that instead of the #6 because I had so much waste to remove.

within a frog hair of each other
These don't have to be within +/- 2 molecules of thickness of each other. They are the two ends and this is plenty good enough.

flat check
The board in the background is flat on both sides. The foreground one had a hump on this side. I planed the hump out and checked the board for flat again and had none.  The upside is the two boards ended up being almost 99.99% flush in thickness.

the shelf is flat too
shiny top on the monitor stand - waxed and shined
front view
left side
the back
in the batter's circle
Fingers are crossed on the keyboard stand but I do have another project to occupy my time.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
In what language was the first complete Bible printed in America?
answer - in the language of the Algonquin Indians in 1663

got two done today........

Sun, 04/02/2017 - 2:46am
When is a project considered done?  I usually call mine done when it is glued up. Or should I wait until the finish is on, if it is getting one? I got the keyboard/mouse desk glued up and I am calling it done but I'm having second thoughts. I'm not sure if I will put a finish on this or not. I think will redefine done as meaning it is ready to use. So based on the new criteria,  I only got one done and another almost done.

the fun started here
Before I started to make this I did one last check for flat and straight. This turned out to be twisted and a twist from hell to remove. I went back and forth several times planing and checking before I got rid of it. The far right corner was the trouble  spot. Because of that I had to plane the board to thickness to remove the twist on the other side.

My thickness went from 13/16" to 5/8".  This will be ok for the keyboard and mouse and I could have gone down to 1/2". If I had had to do that I would have thinned the legs down to 1/2" too.

done with the desktop
This took almost an hour to do. A bit frustrating at first because removing the twist on the reference took most of the time. I should have left this stickered for another day but I didn't. I was in a hurry to get this done. I did not want to wait another day to do this.

laying out for the through tenons
I did 1/4" through dadoes on the other side and the legs will have two tenons that will come through the top.  I used the 1-2-3 block to do the layout on the top and the squares in the dadoes.

laying out on the dadoes

The mortises are one inch in from the edge and 2" long. I used the 1-2-3 blocks to set the squares to 1" and 2".

dry fit for the dado is good
The dry fit went together without any serious hiccups. I need some kind bracing on the legs. The legs are over 12" high and on their own they aren't strong enough to stay square to the top. The through tenons make a strong connection at the top so I'll put the brace down toward the bottom.

marking for the tenons on the legs
sawed out a brace
marking the shoulders
The inside shoulders on the brace are the same as the inside walls of the through dadoes.

this is something I usually get wrong
There is a quarter inch deep dado and the through tenons are 5/8" tall but I have to deduct for the dado depth. Looking at this the tenons have to be long enough to go through the top (or bottom) portion of the dado. I set my marking gauge to that and put the pin to the outside so the tenon would be a little proud.

the last of the trimming
The outside shoulders I sawed with my dovetail saw. I removed most of the waste on the center with the bandsaw and then trimmed it flushed with a chisel.

dry fit is goo
I am calling this a 'Paul Sellers' joint -  a nice snug fit that I had to tap home with a mallet.

wee bit of blowout on this M/T connection
I don't think that I will have to wedge these at all. I am rather full of myself with how well of a fit I got with them. I can't stop patting myself on the back.

it's off
Definitely need a brace. I have the knife line on the other leg and it's off by a 16th on this side.

didn't need to use my new side rabbit planes
layout for the brace tenon done
last through mortise
I did both of the through mortises with a 1/2" bench chisel. Before I knew of and started following Paul Sellers, this is something I would never have done.  Each time I do this I am amazed at how effective and easy it is do with a bench chisel.

tenon for the brace
I didn't want a thin 1/4" thin tenon so I opted to make it a beefy 1/2" thick. That leaves barely an 1/8" to remove for the cheeks.

splitting the cheeks
Doing this is something I'm not fond of doing and I avoid it if I can. In this case there isn't enough meat there to saw so I have no choice.

trimming the cheeks
I read a blog post that said that Walke-Moore folded up shop. If that is true it's a shame because this is a beautiful tool. I have only used it a handful of times and I'm still not used to how to adjust the cutter. Maybe I should start using it more to get more familiar with it.

another 'Paul Sellers' fitting joint
almost ready to glue up
It is time to take a break and have some ice cream because I did such a good job.

up in the air on this
At this point I was going to saw it off flush but I may also leave it poking out.

planed and cleaned up with the #3
going with a poking out tenon
I tried doing this when I made the book shelves from Paul Sellers video class and I didn't do so well on it. I'm already ahead of then with the round over looking even.

going to round over the top too
Got a wee bit ham fisted on the right one. When I put the brace in I'll make sure that one is facing down.

looking better on the second one

the glue up from hell

The brace had to be glued in the legs first and then the legs glued into the top. The leg on the right split in two on me when I was putting the brace in. Since I already had glue on the tenons and the top, I clamped the split and glued the whole thing up. I had to ask my wife to come and help me because the clamps holding the split leg together were being a PITA besides being in the way.

I finally got it glued up after a lot of choice expletives were let loose and that did seem to help some. I had a crazy thought about moving it over to the tablesaw so I could use the bench for something else but nixed it. This glue up can stay here as long as it needs to set up.

Before I left the shop I gave the glue up one last look over and I'm glad I did. The leg on the left side had moved outboard at an angle and the brace was ready to fall out of the mortise. I had to put the 36" long quick grip clamp on the bottom to keep the legs from moving outwards. I went down to the shop and checked it 3 more times before I went to bed to make sure nothing else decided to do stupid glue up tricks.

it got a grayish black
Noticed the test pieces as I was shutting the lights off. Nowhere as black as the vinegar stuff but I don't plan on using this anymore.

it's not an even color neither
It's a wannabe ebonizing solution that is a day late and a dime short.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is Issac Van Amburgh known for?
answer - He was a circus headliner in the 1830's who was the first to put his head in a lion's mouth

it was a bust......

Sat, 04/01/2017 - 12:54am
Using the citric acid to make the iron part of the ebonizing solution is now officially toast.  And it is burnt toast. It was disappointing because I expected this to work as well as the vinegars I used previously. I now know that this isn't going to work on ebonizing but if I want to dissolve a steel wool pad, I'm golden.

ready to strain
Since this has dissolved the steel wool pad, I am going to strain so I don't get any tiny bits of iron left behind. I used a coffee filter and a nylon mesh strainer to hold it as the liquid drained through it.

lots of sediment

I left all the sediment behind. One of the lumps is what is left of the steel wool pad.

tannic acid

I mixed up a batch of tannic thursday night after dinner so it would be ready for today.

test pieces
The smaller pieces in the front are cut offs from the ones in the back. I'll use these as my test pieces to see if the citrus acid iron solution will react with the tannic acid.

already have tannic acid on them
After I whipped up the tannic acid last night, I dipped these two into it. I was hoping for an instant black, or at  least a slow reaction black, when I put the iron solution on it.

nothing - no reaction
 I wiped a heavy coat of the iron stuff on the test pieces and got no reaction at all. As you can see the test piece looks wet and that is it.

15 minutes later
I have a few dark spots but nothing near the black I got with my last outing with vinegar. And most of those blackish spots I think came from the tannic acid from thursday night.

tried and true
I mixed up a new batch of the iron solution using steel wool and apple cider vinegar.  I know this works but I will have wait a few days for this to cook.

forgot some stray pencil lines
I missed the lay out lines for the chamfer at the back of the bottom brace. I also missed the layout lines for the dovetailed brace. A good thing about shellac is it's melting into previous coats.  I was able to scrape the pencil lines off, along with the shellac, and the next coat covered it like I was never there.

I put on a 2lb coat of shellac on the monitor stand. I'll put one more on the whole and then screw the top to the base. I'll put one more on the top because that will be highly visible and I want that to have some shine.

30 minutes later
I got a wee bit of black on the end grain of all places. Not ready to give up on this just yet. I slathered on another coat of tannic acid but again, I got no reaction at all.

tried another idea
I put the strained liquid back into the sediment and stirred it all up. Maybe all the black making stuff is there and now I'll get a reaction.

The left one got dunked in the mixed up sediment and liquid and no black. The right one I left as is as a comparison. Not even a hint that it might turn black in a while and just needs to rest a bit first. Double proof that this is toast.

I squared the ends and got the 3 of them planed to the same width. All the pieces still look flat and straight with none of them cupped or bowed again.

they are different
The two left most small pieces are the legs with the far left one thinner then it's mate on the right. These will be over 20 inches apart but I can see a noticeable difference in the thickness here. The thin board is the one I had to remove twist from so that is why it ended up thinner. I'll be replacing it with the original leg on the far right.

pitch pocket
This is why I put this aside and made a new leg. If I pay attention, I can probably work around this and remove it. My first plan was to put a shallow cutout on the bottom of the leg of no more than 3/4" high. If I raise that up another inch or two, I can remove this.

This is it for tonight. My oldest daughter came up from Philly for the weekend and we're going out to dinner.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who commanded the USS Enterprise NCC-1701 before Kirk became it's Captain?
answer - Captain Christopher Pike

least favorite part.......

Fri, 03/31/2017 - 12:30am
There are 3 stages to every project I do for me. Stage one is the most exciting and it's where I identify what I'm going to make. Sometimes it is straight forward and other times I stumble and trip at first. Either way, I like this planning stage the most.

Stage two is making it. Since I rarely work off of a set of plans, it looks like I'm winging it. I haven't any had any serious problems making things in this fashion over the years. My best friend is a better woodworker then me but he couldn't nail two boards together without a ten page set of plans. I can see what I want in my mind and build it as it unfolds.

Stage three is sanding, planing, or however the final project is cleaned up. After this, it is the application of some kind of finish. I kind of like the planing part but  the finish part is my absolute least favorite.

I am at stage three with the monitor stand and I am at stage one/two with the next project. The next project is stage one and two because I know what I want but haven't settled on a final plan in my mind for it yet. However, I have started to make it by doing the stock prep.

ready to unclamp
Nothing relaxed and sighed when I took the clamps off which is a good sign. A quick check showed that everything was still square and flat.

sanding wasn't working
I tried to sand the bottom brace flush with the end frame and got nowhere. 3 swipes with a block plane and it was flush.

lays flat
I am glad that I had the mind fart mistake that led to this. There is no rocking in any direction. The stand is very stable and it lost the rickety feeling it had before it was put on. The stand felt a little on the flimsy side sans the bottom brace, but now it has a solid feeling and a presence.

iron solution
 This looks kind of ugly and nothing like the greenish tinted water from yesterday.

nice green color
The sides and bottom are covered with this stuff. I don't have a clue as to what this is.

this is it for the steel wool
This is all I could find left in the container. I shredded this into a bunch of smaller pieces and tossed it back into the pea soup.

what it looked like 20 minutes later

the keyboard mouse stock
The board wasn't in as good of shape as I thought. It was cupped on one side and humped o the other. I planed the wings off and the humps on the what will be the legs. I was going to stop here and sticker them but I decided to keep on going. I still had time before the clock said 1700.

done (ish)
I didn't go nutso on this. I made one face flat, twist free, and straight. The ends I kind of made the opposite face parallel. And the flat desk top I only did the reference face. This is a hand tool build and nothing has to be anal retentive, within +/- 3 atoms thickness anywhere.

I will make the legs square and flat where they will go into the top and the remainder of it will be left as is. The desk top bottom will be the reference face because the legs will be let into it with a dado and through tenons. After the legs are glued into the top, I'll plane the top flat and straight. It only will have to support a keyboard and mouse so it really doesn't need to be perfect.

We'll see if my reasoning is ok or out to lunch in a few more days.


I used this many screws because of the 3/4" length of them. Only about a 1/4" will be into the top and this is the only attachment point between the top and the base. So it looks like overkill but I think it is just right.

two coats of 1/2 lb cut
I am concentrating on getting the bottom parts done first. Then I can flip it over and do the show surfaces.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was the first word spoken from the Moon?
answer - "Houston" - tranquility base here. The Eagle has landed.

monitor stand done.......

Thu, 03/30/2017 - 1:21am
All the woodworking on the monitor stand is complete. Tomorrow I can start to put on the finish which is looking like it will be shellac. I need a week to put on a sufficient number of coats of wipe on poly and only a couple of days with shellac. It's a coin toss but I can get the shellac on it and bring it to work on monday which is the goal.

sometimes you get lucky
The brace is barely a frog hair under the bottom of the side frame. If I had set the router to the pencil line this would have been too deep. I'll look at this again after the glue up has set. I think with this being so small that I can sand it out.

laying out the chamfer
I trimmed the ends so they are the same as what the front is. The chamfer is asymmetrical with the top shy of 4/16" and the side being a strong 5/16". I went with a steep chamfer so the brace will appear to be thinner than it's 3/4" thickness.

did the ends first
I did the bulk of the removal with the big block plane and used the smaller one to finesse it to the lines.

long chamfer batted second
I tried to use the 4 1/2 to do the end chamfers and stopped. I couldn't see what I was doing and the block planes were a better choice there. The 4 1/2 worked well on the long grain chamfers. I used it do the bulk removal and then the small block plane to finish the chamfer to the pencil lines.

last woodworking step
I shot the ends to remove the impression of the bench dogs and to smooth them.

day 3
The liquid turned back into the clear, greenish tint it was yesterday.

all the steel wool that is left
The two vinegars I used before didn't break down and dissolve the steel wool at all. This is all that is left of the pad.  This is pretty impressive.

#4 chipbreaker
It's out of the citrus bath and has been sanded down with 320 grit sandpaper. The leading edge on this has had some work done to it before I got it.

the back side
After I rinsed it off, I shined it up with the sandpaper and cleaned with orange cleaner. It is ready to fettle the way I like to do it.

5 swipes on the coarse stone
I have a hollow to the left of center. A couple of more minutes of working it and I had a shiny straight line across the edge.

two high spots
no faffing about anymore
I went right to the 80 grit runway after I saw the two high spots. I went back to the coarse diamond stone after I got a consistent scratch pattern across the entire end.

Another #4 spare iron set up ready to go. I only have one more #4 iron and chipbreaker to do.

tomorrows work
This is what I'll be making the next keyboard/mouse desk out of. This has been in the boneyard for over a year so I think it's done doing stupid wood tricks.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was William Stewart Halsted?
answer - he was the first surgeon to wear rubber gloves to perform surgery in 1890

UPS yesterday and today.......

Wed, 03/29/2017 - 1:09am
Tuesday at 0906, I was on the phone with Lie Nielsen trying to find out where my chipbreaker was. The LN rep fixed the email address and then checked the tracking number. Not good news sports fans. He told me that UPS had delivered it on Monday at 15.52. I was upstairs from about 1545 to a little bit after 1600, and I didn't see a big brown truck in front of the house at that time.

I tried to put a claim in for the package but I couldn't do it. The online UPS claim process said there was a 24 hour scan on the package and no claim could be done at this time. WTF does that mean? I've been here before with UPS on their proof of delivery. The driver said he left it at the front door and I am screwed. As far as UPS is concerned I got it even though it was delivered to the wrong address.

When I turned onto my street tonight, the big brown UPS truck was going in the opposite direction. When I got home there were a pile of packages waiting for me. My McMaster-Carr package was supposed to come today and my wife had told me she was expecting a few.

When I brought the pile in, two of them were for me, and two for my wife. When I looked at mine, I saw that I had one from LN. I don't know if UPS delivered it or if the person who got it yesterday dropped it off. Either way I have my happy face on.

keyboard drawer slide
These are 3/4 extension drawer slides. This is to lessen the chance of the keyboard being too far out and tipping the desk over.

doesn't look like there is 3" of adjustment there
3 3/4" of adjustment?
I didn't read the instruction or really eyeball this too long but it appears there is more than 3". My cube mate wants the keyboard to be 12" off the desk and I want it to be 6 1/2". I win because it's my desk. If he wants me to make one for him, I'll use his measurements.

my happy face package
bought 2 small file holders
I think this handle is too small for this size file
I wanted to play with this some more but I have too many other things I have to get done. I put it aside for now but I will revisit this.

my replacement chipbreaker - it comes with a screw

checking the iron part of the ebony solution
it has a greenish tint
stirred up the steel wool
It got black completely but the steel wool has clumped up together. It doesn't appear that it is breaking down at all. No more clear, green tinted water. It has a couple of more days to go before I will try it.

my new old #4 chipbreaker
This completes everything I needed for my herd of spare irons. This seems to be covered with a grungy film with no apparent rust.

the corners are rounded
This is something that I hadn't thought of doing to the chipbreaker. I will try this out first and see how it works. If I like it I'll do it to the others.

it matches up with the iron
All my #4 irons have the corners rounded over. The chipbreaker looks good and the line up between the iron and the chipbreaker is much better than I thought it would be. Now if I can plane and not have shavings getting jammed between the two, there will be  much joy and rejoicing in Mudville.

a lot of the grunge is rust
I will finish sanding the chipbreaker before I give a citrus acid bath.

150 years old minimum
The front edge of this looks good. There doesn't seem to be any pits so this should clean up to be nice and shiny.

one of the kitchen doors
I wanted to get the bottom brace for the monitor stand out this door. I won't be getting it out of this one. This is big ply piece of plywood.

I have a chance with this door
wide enough
If this piece goes from here to the other end as one piece, I can get my bottom brace out of it.

an inch too short
If that T&G wasn't there I would be happy. This idea is toast and I am not wasting anymore time with the old kitchen cabinet parts.

3/4" poplar
I didn't want to use this board to get the bottom brace but I had no choice. I don't have anything else in the shop that I can use.

another use for the gauge stick
The gauge stick will hold the sides where they need to be so I can mark for the stopped dadoes. I left the ends long so I would have some meat to use a square there. I also needed some real estate for the router plane to sit on while I did the dadoes.

setting the router
I set the depth to be a 1/16" above the line. I'll do the dadoes and the check the fit of the sides. I can make the dadoes deeper if I need too.

dadoes are done
dry fit looks good

It looks like I may need to make the dadoes a few frog hairs deeper. Once those are done I'll saw the ends to be same reveal off the sides as it is at the front. A small chamfer on all four edges will bring the  height of the brace down and make it look thinner.

I was hoping to get this done and glued up but it didn't happen. I want to get a wipe on poly finish on this and bring it to work on Monday. If I don't think I'll have sufficient time, I have two cans of shellac.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What are fruit eaters called?
answer - frugivores (they can be herbivores or omnivores)