Hand Tool Headlines

The Woodworking Blogs Aggregator


Be sure to visit the Hand Tool Headlines section - scores of my favorite woodworking blogs in one place.  Also, take note of Norse Woodsmith's latest feature, an Online Store, which contains only products I personally recommend.  It is secure and safe, and is powered by Amazon.


Accidental Woodworker

Subscribe to Accidental Woodworker feed
The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2572125
Updated: 9 min 2 sec ago

much joy in Mudville........

Sat, 06/10/2017 - 1:11am
The house is full of people again. My grandson, the son-in-law, and the two girls are all here for the first time in very long time. There is nothing in this world that will make me blather like an idiot other than my 6 month old grandson. What a treat to finally see him and get to hold him. A wee bit of trepidation there as it has been a bazillion years since I've held a baby.

Needless to say, I didn't get much shop time. I had to decompress a little and then I shut the lights out to go watch him.

I had checked on the camera status again at lunchtime and Amazon had 7 Red TG-5s for sale. I think it's going to be a wait and see for me.  Amazon hasn't taken the money for the camera yet so I'll be checking my bank as my indication the camera is on it's way to me.

frog is done
It was hard to capture a shot of the frog in reflection. The bottom of the frog has just been sanded and the area above the round cutouts got the filing action. Most of the filing action was between the arches and the bottom disc of the lateral adjust.

port side view
This is a moot point as the iron/chipbreaker/lever cap will hide 100% of this. To that end I am leaving the frog as it is here.

diagonals match
I still have lows above the arches but solid contact across the whole bottom of the frog and the top. There is no light to be seen under the ruler at those points.

too small or too big
The slot is too big (wide) and the frog is too small (width too) for this jig. If I put one wing on one side the opposite wing on the frog is barely on the other side of the jig. This drove a lot of leaving the frog as is. I don't want to make another one of these jigs just for this plane as I don't anticipate doing a rehab of another #2.

I had to make a pit stop at Wally World to get a 9V battery for the smoke detector. While I was there I picked up a few other things but I forgot to get regular Coke for the son-in-law. I picked up some paint and artist brushes though.

no semi-gloss
If I think this is too shiny I will buy the quart can of semi-gloss. The choices were this and flat black in this size can.

cheap bag artist brushes
These are for oil or water colors. I got them because they are cheap and small. If I forget to clean them I'm out only a handful of pennies. This bag was less then $5.

just noticed this holiday
I don't think that I missed this but it sticks out like shiny red sore thumb. I hit it again with primer and if that doesn't work I will have to investigate this further. I may have to sand this spot back to bare metal and start over.

this is next
This will get stripped and painted just like the #2. I haven't come across another one of these in my web searches but there are a lot of Preston spokeshaves out there. I have been looking at them to determine what parts are painted and which are left shiny and bare. I need to get a better idea on this subject.

my current iron
I haven't had any luck with finding a replacement for this. Ray Iles has a site called Old Tools and he sells two replacement Preston spokeshave irons. One is for a lateral adjust and the other for a non lateral adjust. The cutouts look the same as my iron but the tapers on the sides are much steeper and larger. I never got a reply from them on whether or not the non lateral adjust iron would fit my Preston but I ordered one anyways. It if fits and it works I'm golden. If not I'll have to buy a Preston spokeshave to fit it.

5 1/2 takes a 2 1/4" wide iron
I bought a spare iron for the 5 1/2 from Old Tools along with the spokeshave iron. With S/H it came to less than $50 but I don't know what the international currency exchange fee is. Old Tools has replacement Stanley irons for the #3 plane up to the #8 along with block plane irons, plus lots of others too. I couldn't find a thickness listed for this iron so I'll have to wait and be surprised when I get it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
US regulations state what percentage of peanuts must be in peanut butter?
answer - 90%

picked the wrong color.......

Fri, 06/09/2017 - 12:52am
Today at lunchtime I checked Amazon to see if the TG-5 was finally being sold. I should've, could've, would've but I didn't pick the right color. They offer the TG-5 in red and black and I picked black. The red one is being sold and they had 2 left in stock as of 1205 today. At least one of them is being sold so maybe the black one will be batting next soon.

not black anymore
This was as black as the edge of space yesterday and tonight it's dry and grayish. This isn't a big deal because the finish coat will be black enamel. I am going to paint that on and not spray paint it.

good coverage
The first coat coverage was very good. All the nooks and crannies made by the front cross brace and the front and back of the frog bed have 100% coverage. I sprayed on the second coat the same way I did the first one.

it's wet and it's black
It's wet but I can see it drying to the grayish color already. Now I have to find a small can of semi-gloss black enamel.

filed the frog
Filing a frog as little as a couple of months ago is something I would not have done let alone even let a thought like that enter the brain bucket. There was a bulge at the far end of the frog that was throwing the square off. I filed a little and checked my progress with a square. It took about ten minutes of of this before I got the bottom edge square. I didn't have to file the entire edge to get to square.

square from both sides
I think that this was necessary to do. I use the bottom edge of the frog to set it parallel to the mouth and establish a reference point to work from.

low spot by my finger

another low spot by my finger here too
After finding these two low spots I find another hiccup. Just to the right of the depression that the iron/chipbreaker screw sits in, is high. I have a belly there and that will screw up the iron laying flat on the frog. The low spots aren't a problem per se and all I really want to do is have the iron touch at the bottom and at the top on either side of the lateral adjust.

this side touches top and bottom
There is a low spot about the middle but not a problem. Checking the other side this way showed the hump in the middle. After looking at this I think that if I remove the hump, I will get my four bearing points for the iron to rest on.

I filed it
There was no way I was going to sand that hump away before I was eligible for social security. Even if I used 40 grit sandpaper. Doing this one took a wee bit longer than squaring the bottom. I was a lot more cautious doing this and I really think I should get a machinist's vise. Doing this kind of work in the woodworking vise works but it doesn't give me a warm and fuzzy. For that matter, a machinist's vise might not give me a warm and fuzzy neither. Can we say a cheap Harbor Freight vise to whet my appetite on?

a couple of months later
To say that autosol has impressed me would be an understatement of titanic proportions. I think it is close to 3 months since I applied it and it still looks damn good. Regular readers know that I do like shiny and it doesn't have to be brass.  I haven't applied anymore and I haven't wiped the plane down with a rag neither. This is what it looks like after everyday shop use.

the sole
I did not expect this to be looking this good for so long. I thought it would be shiny for a week and then it would slowly go dull and be grungy looking.

thanx for the tip Bob
I'll be going back and applying this to all of my planes. My record 073 has always looked like crap and maybe this will work it's wonderment on that. I read a blog about this being used on the blades of combination squares too. I'm going to try it on that and the body too. If it is metal, it's getting introduced to AUTOSOL.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a gimcrack?
answer - a showy object that has little or no value

not made like they used to be........

Thu, 06/08/2017 - 12:36am
I ordered some replacement parts for my hand held vise. A 1/4-20 bolt and a new wing nut and I was a bit disappointed in them.  They sure don't make them like they did when this vise was new. I don't have an age for it but I guess around the turn of the 1900's and maybe even earlier. I only have one old woodworking tool catalog from the 1880's but I couldn't find one of these in it.

my vise and it's parts
I've taken an interest in these and I've been reading the write ups on all the ones I'm coming across. The biggest problem I am reading about these is the metal tab between the jaws is weak or broken.

funny looking washer
When I first got this I thought that the bolt or maybe the wing nut had caused this. After taking it apart and eyeballing it, I don't think that is the case anymore. I think that this is a special purpose washer. But it is also a washer that I haven't seen before.

wing nut side
This is where the bolt exits this jaw and the lip on the inside of the washer is almost a perfect fit for this hole. That keeps the washer centered over the hole and provides a constant bearing surface for the wing nut.

back jaw's hole
The square 'mortise' keeps the bolt from spinning and allows it to be tightened and loosened.

the old bolt
Bent up a bit and the threads are rounded but it still works. The wing nut still spins freely up and down the threads so it is still serviceable. But it isn't pretty looking anymore.

from Blacksmith Bolt & Rivet
When I order spare parts I usually order more than what I need. You never know when one of the extras may be needed somewhere else. I didn't see the washer I have on the Blacksmith bolt site.

new on the left and old on the right
There is a noticeable size difference that is obvious. I had expected the bolts to look alike a lot closer than this. Besides the threaded parts being different sizes, the heads are smaller too.

wing nuts
I would be hard pressed to exert the same amount of force on both these wings nuts without a bit of pain. The new one on the bottom missed taking it's vitamins for more than one day. I'll be keeping the older one as it has much larger wings to tighten down with.

found a chipbreaker
Went looking for something else and found this. Forgot what I was looking for but this will do. Most of the chipbreakers I have now for the 4 1/2 and the #7  are all stamped 1867. This one doesn't have a date on it and I'm hoping that I can use this and I won't have to run the adjuster 1/2 way out before moving the iron.

not Damascus steel
This is the other half of the chipbreaker iron set up. All the swirly looking stuff is pits caused by rust. This iron is useless for planing or anything else to do with making shavings with it. I'll hang on to it just in case I can do something else with it.

primer coat first
I am going to spray the primer coat on this mostly to stop rust blooms from forming. But before I spray the first coat on I have get rid of the few that I have. The rust blooms I have here are all where castings are meeting at 90°.

my steel wire brushes
These are basically useless and especially so with the 3 that have flattened bristles. I managed to remove the blooms I had with the one brush with mostly straight bristles and folded up sandpaper.

clean before painting
Painting metal isn't much different from painting wood. The better you prep either one, the better your results will be. This has been stripped, sanded, and the rust blooms taken care of. The final step was to wash and scrub the body with acetone. Once this dried I masked off the areas I don't want paint on. I didn't do the frog seat because I will scrap that area clean after the primer coats.

my fancy spray booth
I sprayed from head on horizontally from the back and front first to get the small raised 'walls'. Then I did the rest of the interior. I'll do a second coat tomorrow and this will be ready for the finish coat. I forgot to put the screws and the threaded studs in but maybe I'll remember them for the second coat. I got a bonus with the primer being black. My other rattle can of primer is gray.

this isn't ready yet
I just noticed in this pic that the bottom of the frog isn't square to the sides. It tapers from the low on the right to the high on the left.  The frog is stripped and ready for primer but I'll have to address the out of squareness now along with the finishing of the face.

I haven't finished sanding and smoothing the face first
This is what I want to complete first before I do any painting at all.

I didn't do anything with the bookcase and I probably won't until the weekend. I only have about an hour each weekday night and I don't want to run into a snag that will involve any length of time to resolve. I will pick up the bookcase again this weekend.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Fred Ott?
answer - Thomas Edison filmed him sneezing in the first copyrighted film in history

still prepping.......

Wed, 06/07/2017 - 1:23am
The last time I made something this big that needed a plywood back I was still in the navy. The woodshop there had 5 tablesaws, 3 set up for crosscuts, one for ripping, and the last one for miters using a sled. The largest crosscut saw had a huge fence on it but I don't remember the measurement but it would crosscut more than 48 inches - way past the center of a 4x8 sheet of plywood. It was on this tablesaw that I was able to saw almost any sized back panel to length and width.

Since I knew the back was sawn square, I used that to square up the carcass. I nailed one corner together and put the plywood back on and clamped it to draw up the sides and top/bottom tight. I nailed the back into the carcass and there was much joy to behold. I plan on doing the same for this bookcase except I won't have the advantage of using the Navy woodshop saw.

kitchen spice and book shelf
According to the date on the drawer backs I finished this in January of this year. This is a good spot for it - away from the heat of the stove but still easy to get to. I couldn't get all my favorite cookbooks on it but what is there isn't causing any sagging at all. The bookshelf is 3/4" thick and the rest of the spice rack is 9/16".

the paper towel holder
Missed this location big time. I thought it was going to the right of the spice rack but I was so wrong on that. Doesn't make sense to me to have it here but this is where my wife said to put it.

tannic acid solution
This had one grayish dot swimming in it the day after I finished using it. This stuff spoils once the water hits the powder. The next time I mix some of this up I'll try refrigerating it to see that will extend it's life. This container got shit canned.

sizing the the back
I cleared off the tablesaw and cut myself on one of the molding planes as a reward for being a good boy and doing that. I sawed the plywood to width on the tablesaw and used the handsaw on the end cut.

off cuts
Hand sawing this plywood was a massively sucky job to do. The long piece is the start of the cut. Then the saw jammed and I could not move it up or down. I broken this big piece off, sawed a little and broke another piece off. I kept sawing and breaking pieces off until the end. The biggest problem was the saw kept jamming (it would not budge)  and waxing didn't help at all.

getting awfully close
My diagonals are off about a 16th which isn't too bad considering the length and width of this. The top has the factory cut and the bottom is my hand sawn cut.

wee bit out of square
less than a 32nd off
The end cut almost touched the back of the rabbet on this end at the middle so that is where I placed the clamp. I lightly clamped it and I almost zeroed out the diagonals. It pulled the top factory edge in tighter at the top and the sides which helped equalizing the diagonals.

7 foot bar clamp
 When I made my bed 525 moon sets ago I used this clamp and four others. They are long but not that good. The iron is soft and can't exert a lot of pressure and will bow up like a warm pretzel if you exert too much.

this is why I made the gizmos
I do not have any luck using a clamp to shift corners to pull carcasses into square. The flat of the clamping pad always slips and drops off the corner. The gizmos won't have that problem. But it's a moot point for this because I won't be using them. I'll be using the plywood back to square up the carcass.

big red to the rescue
I need to square the end here because this looks like a bumpy country road.  I tried knifing a line first but I couldn't see it. Besides,  I caught the grain in a couple of spots and wandered off into La La Land. I ran a pencil line from both sides instead and planed down to it.

not perfect
This doesn't have to be perfect. The factory edge at the top squares up the carcass. The bottom needs to be closer to the back of the rabbet on the bottom. I will have to cut the rabbets again on the sides by about an 1/8" to do that as I lost a few frog hairs squaring up the bottom. I want the back to be tight in all four rabbets as that will strengthen the carcass and help to prevent racking.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the only river that flows north and south of the equator?
answer - the Congo River crosses the equator twice

prepping for the glue up........

Tue, 06/06/2017 - 12:35am
I have the holes drilled for the shelves in the bookcase already. That means if I don't get the carcass square on the glue up, all my shelf pin holes will be in La La land. To that end I am going real slow on this glue up because I won't have a second chance at the brass ring. I even made a gizmo to help me out with that. That may or may not pay any dividends. I hope it does because working alone has it's ups and downs.

glue up gizmo step 1
I don't know the size of these but they are square.

step #2
Drill a 11/16" inch hole in the middle. This size isn't critical and I used this bit because it looks ok and it was the first one I grabbed.

step #3
Saw out a 90° piece or a 45°, depending upon your point of view.  Save the off cut and try to be accurate. I did these on the bandsaw.

the only one of the four that was off
A couple of swipes with the chisel on both legs and the 45 square fit with no daylight showing.

It isn't imperative that this be dead nuts 45° but it helps to practice to be accurate. The last step is to glue the off cut to the big block. A wee bit later in the blog and all will be revealed about it's function. That will give the glue a bit of time to set up too.

more stock
This is a prototype and I'm not sure if it will work as I envision it. I made my first set of these out of solid wood and stopped. I remembered making these before out of solid wood and having them break on me. The plywood is a better choice for this application. I  can make more if this one doesn't work.

dry clamping the carcass
This is where the fun begins. I clamped the near end with corner clamps to hold this end together while I clamped the far end. The 1x4's under carcass allow me to do this because the width of the bookcase is wider than my workbench is.

57 3/16" this way and the other way is 57 7/16" so I'm about a 1/4" out of square. It's been a very long time since I have made a something this big that had a plywood back. I have to ensure that the rabbet joints are tight, the carcass is square, and the back fits with no daylight. I fiddled with this a bit shifting the clamps to try and draw it up square but I had no luck. The best I got was a strong 1/8 off on the diagonals.

this I don't understand
The carcass is pretty square on the bottom which is the front of the bookcase.

the top is toast
This proves the square is not an accurate tool to use to ensure 90° corners on this. I can sight down the long sides of the carcass and the left and right sides bow inward. If I relax the long clamps the bow disappears but the carcass is still not square. No way to get a square to read the corners accurately.

one gizmo goes here
another goes on the opposite diagonal corner
a clamp connects the two gizmos
The big problem I have using a clamp to pull the long corner into square is having  the ^^$##@&;%$ clamp stay there. The big plan with the gizmos is to provide a flat surface for the clamp head and to pull the carcass square. I didn't get to try that tonight.because I have to figure out one more thing with them.

the gizmos are ready
The glue set up sufficiently and I was able to put a couple of screws in each one. The sticking point with these is just that. Working by myself how do I get these to stay in place while I get a clamp on them? I have double sided tape but that stuff is way too sticky. It is very difficult to pry things apart with that tape. And it gets worse with the amount of pressure applied. Blue tape is a choice but it is hard to get it stay put and not have the gizmo flop around. What I need is a post-it-note type stickiness.

I think I find the perfect adhesive to hold these in place and then release without taking a chunk of wood with them. It's the picture hanging glue tabs. The ones that you stick one to the wall and one on the picture.  To remove it, you just pull it off. I got this idea when I saw my wife hanging pictures up in the kitchen. I thought I would borrow some of hers but I don't know where she hid them. I'll have to make a pit stop to get some tomorrow.

measured the carcass
I measured the rabbet in the back of the carcass from both directions and compared them. They are the same but I don't have a warm and fuzzy about it. The diagonals are off so does that mean these measurements are not correct for a square back too? If I saw the back to these measurements will the carcass be square or will it remain as it is, slightly out of square. This is where my wonderful spatial abilities come to the fore and failed me.

I'll hand saw the plywood back
I did think of using the tablesaw to make the cuts for the plywood back but looking at this pile of crap changed my mind. Besides the cuts aren't all that wide - both are less than an inch - and that won't be easy or safe to do on the tablesaw. I'll wait until tomorrow before doing any cutting.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is on the flip side of the Susan B Anthony $1 coin?
answer - an eagle displayed over of a landscape of the moon

eclectic sunday........

Mon, 06/05/2017 - 12:47am
eclectic : deriving ideas, style, or taste from a broad and diverse range of sources. I have done something similar to eclectic these past two days but I wasn't working on ideas etc etc etc. Instead I was working on a range of different things almost in a schizoid fashion. My best friend thinks I'm schizoid but 4 out of 5 of my personalities disagree with him. I work on a lot things at once so I keep busy. Lately trying to keep what is on the A list and what is on the B list and what gets priority is giving me a headache. Having a day job is proving to be real big hindrance for sure.

planing the last insert flush
I used the the small block first to figure out which way to plane with the grain. The 4 1/2 planed the the bulk and I switched to back to the block plane to finish it.

plug up coming
This is plywood so I am putting the plug in with it's grain 90° to the plywood top grain. I made a couple of rough layout lines on the maple that will give up the plug.

almost saw in off
Before I sawed the plug out I sawed it for thickness as much as I could first. I then cut out the plug about an inch longer than needed. Put that in my vise and finished sawing it to thickness. The last dance step was sawing it to length.

plug done
I knifed the outline of the plug and chopped it out.

thinning it - way too thick for the hole
fit is good on the left side
right side too
glued in place and planed flush
great stuff
If I'm painting a project I always use this to fill in all the nooks and crannies along with any gaps. I had forgotten how little water you need to use to mix this up. I ended up with way too much putty because I used too much water.

my new hand vise
It opens up about an inch and I noticed that  the bolt for this is bent.

maybe it's a 4" hand vise?
works great for holding parts
I stuck the #2 frog yoke in here and then put that in my bench vise. I was able to use two hands to scrape all the black paint off of the yoke.

I thought it was a 1/4-20
None of my thread checkers, imperial or metric, fit this bolt. All I can tell with them is that it isn't a 5/16 bolt.

screw pitch gauge was a dead end too
The bolt is bent slightly in two different directions and all the threads are rounded over. The #20 pitch didn't line up and the #28 was too fine. Another dead end. It doesn't matter a whole lot what size bolt I replace this with but I would like to use what the original was. I finally found it by using the wing nut on a 5/16 bolt (too big) and a 1/4-20 screw which fit like a glove in a hand.  I ordered some all threaded, square end, 1/4-20 carriage bolts from the  Blacksmith Bolt & Rivet Company.

for painting
I am thinking of brushing on the black coat rather than spray painting it. I'll spray the primer coat and these extra screws and studs will keep that from getting in the holes. I want to use semi gloss but Wally World only had quarts and I only need a pint container. Depending upon whether I feel like making a pit stop after work this week, I still may brush the black on.

I watched a You Tube video a few weeks ago where a Sargent #4 handplane was rehabbed. The restorer spray painted the entire bed and frog. After the paint dried, he scraped the paint off the areas that didn't need paint. Like the frog face and the seat for the frog on the plane body. I think the frog face is too large but the seat on the plane should be doable. I may try that too as it would be easier than trying to mask that area with tape.

layout for round #2 of drilled holes
I sanded the putty did the layout on one side and transferred that to the other one.

single point reference
This is the center line of the drilled holes. I will drill all the holes from here to right. I will come back to the center line and drill all the holes to left.

far right hole
I didn't change anything here and all I did was move the shelf to the right to the last hole. It is still on the 1 1/2" pencil line from the edge.

all the way to left
Frank had asked me if I set the fence parallel to the front of the drill press table. It isn't necessary because I am referencing off of a single point - the drill bit. Once the fence is set in relation to the drill bit, it will be the same R/L,  from end to end. The only thing that matters is that the fence be straight. And doesn't have to be parallel to the drill table.

nice parallel lines of drilled holes
Tomorrow I'll get the carcass glued up and the back cut for it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What United State Capitol name means "sheltered harbor"?
answer - Honolulu Hawaii

a no title blog post........

Sun, 06/04/2017 - 2:37am
I pre-ordered my Olympus TG-5 this morning. I got the black one (the other choice was red) and I was tempted to buy the 3 year plan but opted out. The plan would start today even though I don't have clue as to when I will actually get the camera. I'll check and see if I can still get it when the camera is delivered.

I still don't have anything in print (audio neither) as to when this is coming form Olympus. I found out that the factory that makes the TG cameras was destroyed in an earthquake. Can't find anything on when or if it was rebuilt or the manufacturing was transferred elsewhere. Other than the one blurb on a camera forum saying the new TG was being in released in June, I haven't come across anything else.

batting lead off
The inserts fit at the bottom and top but the middle areas were off on all 4. I did them one side at time. I fitted one, using the other to raise it up so I could plane it.

marked and then sawed to length
last one
I used yellow glue on the inserts. They ended up about a 32nd proud which is about as much as I was willing to do with this hard maple. One thing I meant to do but forgot, was to mark the direction of the grain. There isn't much meat here and I don't want to have any tear out on these.

blue tape to the rescue
The plan is to put the two of these together and clamp it. The blue tape will keep any errant glue from going where it would cause me much distress. Especially so if the sides ended up glued together.

Ran an errand after this thinking I would play with the bookcase when I got back. Turns out the road trip was a bust. I went to pick up my wife's genealogy certificate but it wasn't ready. The lady didn't have enough of one of the mats I picked out and she didn't have my phone number. She said she could have it done later today but I told her I would come back next saturday. I didn't want her rushing to complete it. When I got back home I decided to leave the bookcase clamped until tomorrow.

it's hogging the bench until tomorrow
back to the #2
I'm going to give this rattle can stripper a shot. I had to read the directions with a magnifying glass they are written so small on this can. This stripper is supposedly for metal too but the instructions only deal with stripping wood. Depending upon how well it does here, determines whether I'll also use it on the Preston Pattern spokeshave.

a couple of hours later
This is what it looks like after 3 separate applications of stripper. The shiny areas are from a wire wheel I used in a hand drill and those are the only areas that are down to bare metal.

the left cheek wall
the right cheek wall
This side doesn't appear to be as good as the left but it is. Overall I think the plane has been stripped down sufficiently and I can paint it now. I will sand this with some 100 grit sandpaper to see if I can extend the shiny areas a little more. I won't be doing anything more than this other than cleaning it before applying the primer.

a big first
I used my pin punches for the second time and I removed the pin on the yoke. The pin yoke was the big first. It was something that I have been very reluctant to remove on past plane rehabs. Today it just made sense to remove it to make painting it and the frog so much easier. This pin wasn't tapered and I removed it without any fussing. I punched it out 1/2 way and then finished pulling it out with pliers.

a hand clamp
I got this from Josh at Hyperkitten tools. I've seen these for sale before and always passed on buying on. I read Josh's write up on this for once, and it made sense to have this in the shop. There have been a few times in the shop I wanted to hold something in a vise to work on it.

fits in the hand
There is a metal tab that acts as a spring to open the jaws that still works and has a lot of force left in it. Josh said that this was a 3" hand vise but I don't know what the 3" equates to on this. The only thing I didn't measure was the open width of the jaws - maybe that is the 3"?

Wow again. I can't believe how tenacious of a grip this vise has on this spokeshave iron. I whacked the iron with a hammer and I swear the vise giggled. Nothing happened. I am very impressed with the grip this vise can exert. I wonder if this was a metal working tool or shared with the woodworking world.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is an agalma?
answer - a cult statue

pizza night......

Sat, 06/03/2017 - 1:04am
My wife emailed me at work saying she wanted pizza for dinner tonight. I said yes because I thought she was bringing it home. Turned out that she was coming home early and we were going out to get pizza and eat it there. At least I found that out before she got home. I did what I could in the shop and was ready to go when she pulled into the driveway.

bath over, parts rinsed and dried
Yesterday I would have said this picture was pretty good. The green of the towel is not what I see but the other details are OK.  I know now that the white balance is off which is causing the towel color to be washed out. I know what it is and now I have to figure out how to correct it.

thumb screws
These are still available from McMaster-Carr. I'm on the fence about painting them black or buying replacement shiny ones.

got a rust bloom on this
This is going to be an interesting part to strip and paint.

the back is clean
the back of the iron
Before I put this in the citrus bath there was a burr on the back side of the iron. Out of the bath and the burr is gone. There isn't even the slightest hint of a burr. One good thing about the iron is that Ray Iles makes a replacement iron for it and it looks exactly like this. It shows just as much meat as this one which I thought was an old iron with a lot of sharpenings under it's belt. I got the tip for this from Sparks who left me a comment on it.

I checked it out briefly but I didn't have time to see if they ship to the US. The seller is a company in England and the price is roughly $14 before S/H and the international conversion fees. Still, it's a reasonable cost for this. Now I don't have to worry about having a backup depending of course that I can buy one. I'll try that out on Saturday.

not square
 The sides are tapered so I really don't have a way of checking this for square. Looking at it by eye, it appears to be slightly off. The square does show a high end on the same side with the square taking a reading from both sides. I don't think it matters as long as I can set the edge of the iron parallel to the mouth.

lost a washer
I think I might have one these kicking around. This washer looks a lot like the washers Stanley uses on the frog screws.

this is puzzling
This is the underside that rides on the bottom of the chamfer body. The two outside 'flats' on both of these were obviously painted which I don't understand. A lot of the paint was lost in the bath and from me hitting the flats with a metal brush.

why I am puzzled
This is the underside of the chamfer shave. The lands are paint free and shiny clean. I can't see having the 'flats' on the other pieces painted. It would be a bit hard to move them and there should be evidence of paint transfer on the bottom of the chamfer body. It makes sense to me to have these mating surfaces to be shiny and smooth equally. Something else to chew on.

I packed all the parts in a box and set this aside for now. I have way too many things going on at the same time. I need to get the bookcase done for my wife and I still have a few things left to do in the kitchen. I'll have to resolve the paint or no paint areas and doing the other things will give me time to think about them.

bought some new scrapers
I had the convex ones on the right and I just got the concave ones on the left. I thought I had them but I found I didn't when I went searching for them. Now I'll have to find a home from them as I don't have enough slots in the scraper holder.

I don't read japanese
This is what I want I really wanted on the order. I added the convex scrapers to it because I saw them a few pages later.

new 8000 (8K) polishing stone
new on the left existing on the right
The old stone is just that, old. I got it in middle 1970's and up to recently it was working for me. When I got the #8 jointer, this stone became obsolete. I really like the size of the base on the new stone. It is longer than the stone and looks to be about the same thickness, This stone obviously stayed at the breakfast table for an extra bowl of Wheaties more than once.

new stone is 3" wide
The iron on the #8 is 2 5/8" which will easily fit on this new stone. The white block at the top of the stone is a Nagura stone which makes a slurry which helps to polish the edges of your tools.

the old stone
The old stone is not only shorter in the length, it is also not quite 2 1/2" wide. It is not impossible to sharpen the #8 iron on it but it is interesting. The old stone has a few knicks and gouges in it that makes sharpening my wider width tools on it a little harder to do. I'll probably still use this for the small tools. The new stone will definitely be used to do all my plane irons.

squaring up the last corner
very snug fit
This fit is too snug. Once glue is put in the groove and it swells up, I don't think this will fit unless I use some heavy persuasion. I also have to make sure that I plane up from the edge at least 2" so when I saw out the strips they will all fit.

bevel up jack
I tried 3 other planes before I tried the jack. First up was my 4 1/2 which didn't do so good on this hard maple. I switched to the LN #4 1/2 and it wasn't much better. Both planes were tearing out on one spot where the grain decided to go nutso. It swirls around and changes direction 3-5 times in less than 3".

I was able to plane without incident, with the  LN low angle 102 block plane. I didn't want to plane an area 2" wide by 4 foot long with a block plane. I tired the Lee Valley bevel up jack with the mouth closed up fairly tight. This worked like a charm and didn't have any problems with the swirly grain as long as I planed through it at a skew.

The fit is a loose snug now after planing with the jack. I will cut out the four strips and if need be I will fuss the fit of the inserts in the groove with the LN 102.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is something that is nugatory?
answer - of little or no consequence or importance

new tool to rehab......

Fri, 06/02/2017 - 12:51am
On monday I was doing my usual early morning routine that included checking out Jim Bode and Hyperkitten tools. Josh hadn't posted anything new yet but on Jim Bode's site I spied something and said that was nice looking but kept on shopping. Once I had looked at all the new postings I went back to the first one that caught my eye. It was a Preston Pattern chamfering spokeshave. I'm not sure that this is the correct name but that is what it reminds me of. It is shaped like a spokeshave but will do a wide range of chamfers, symmetrical and asymmetrical.

I have read a lot about Preston tools in passing and I do own one Preston tool. It's a wooden molding plane and it is the best one that I own. I decided to add the Preston Pattern (this is stamped on the handles) to my herd. I like chamfers on my projects and it should start earning it's keep right away.

got it today
Isn't this exciting? I took this pic to get in some practice with the new backup camera. Takes much better pics than the Sanyo. In fact my wife last night offered to let me use her digital camera to take pics for the blog. Even she thought the Sanyo pictures looked bad.

she's a pretty looking tool
fairly clean and rust free too
the lever cap
The flash went off for my first pic taken that way. This lever cap is above and beyond what is required of it. This speaks to me of the pride in craftsmanship that was employed making this. This wasn't necessary but it sure makes it look good.

not much life left in this
I'm sure that this is going to be difficult if not impossible to find another one of.

had to to try it
I thought I had the iron set too shallow but I was way wrong. On my first try I jammed the mouth shut the shaving was so thick. I backed it down and I still had a thick shaving but I wasn't clogging the mouth this time. Backed it down a third time and this is what I got. The shavings are still too thick but they are passing through the mouth and curling. It an seems to be easy tool to use and I'm sure I will be spending a lot of quality time getting to know it.

two lever cap stories
The Stanley spokeshave lever cap is plain but it works very well. I wonder how much more the Stanley  would have cost if they made the lever as pretty looking as the Preston one.

not a lot of parts to this
This I am going to strip down to bare metal and repaint. I was surprised to find that the thumb screws are painted black too. I would have thought that they would have been plated with nickel or at least something shiny.

bottom looks good
The paint in the hollows looks brand new. The only crud on the body is in the Vee. at the back of the mouth.

body is too long for my containers
not going to work
The thought was to cut off the top and drop the body in but the container isn't tall enough. I would have to cut it down fairly low to make clearance for the stud. I think a gallon milk jug might work but we don't buy milk in gallons. Hmm, I've seen them at work in the kitchen. I'll let the parts take their acid bath and pick this back up tomorrow.

made a test groove to get the depth and the distance from the edge
depth is good but the distance needs some tweaking
out of practice
Made this big divot here and a smaller on the right side of the pic about 1/2 way up. I only had to make 3 grooves to remove the drilled holes but I did four to keep everything balanced.

the insert stock
This is a straight grained piece of maple that I'll use to make the inserts. The grooves are 3/8" deep and 1/2" wide.

I'll have some planing to do
The width of the groove is a 64th less than a 1/2" and the maple is a 64th over.  I'll be planing a 32nd or so off to get it to fit. That fun adventure starts tomorrow or maybe saturday.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is an informal talk on a literary subject called?
answer - a causerie

new backup......

Thu, 06/01/2017 - 1:07am
Tonight after work I made a pit stop at Wally World. The 'maybe I'll stop at Lowes' thought died real quick at lunchtime. The more I thought of the metal shelf standards the less I liked that idea. Even if I have to start over I will feel better about not using them. So back to the Wally World stop. I got a new camera. When I was in there on saturday I saw a canon power shot for $79 marked down from $129. Did I do the smart thing and buy it right then and there? Of course not, I looked at it, said that is good deal, and walked away from it.

After taking pics with the Sanyo I realized that this camera ws not taking even a half ass decent pic. I couldn't see myself taking pics with the Sanyo until I got the Olympus TG-5. So I went back to Wally World to get that $79 special camera only to find out that it was out of stock. $129.33 later I left with a different Canon Power Shot. But getting someone to wait on me took some time.

Just my luck that a lady was buying a, or I should say, trying out cell phones to buy. She had 6 of them on the counter and was running the salesperson nutty asking question after question. I spent a lot of quality time listening to her and the salesperson answering the same questions over and over again. Times 6 cell phone models.

Missy is checking it out
I had no time in the shop to speak of tonight thanx to that lady but I did what I could. Missy (my female cat) told me to be careful with this one. I used this right out of the box. I didn't charge the battery or format the SD card. In fact I used the SD card from the old Canon G12 camera without any problems at all.

been thinking about this today and why it failed
This is the first pic with the new camera and at first I was a little disappointed with it. But it is clearer than what I was able to shoot with the Sanyo. This two drill bit set up is what the problem was.

with one drill bit
This setup is incredibly easy to do. Since it is a single drill bit (and a single point of reference), I just have to set the fence at the right distance and be done. As long as that first point is set correctly, I don't have to check the rest of the fence. No matter where I slide the side of the bookcase along the fence I will drill a hole at the exact same distance from the edge. The joy of a single point reference.

Houston we have a problem (exaggerated)

 With the introduction of the second drill bit to act as stop, I lose my single point of reference. I now have to make sure that both bits are in line with each other and parallel to the fence. This is where I went OTL on drilling the holes yesterday. I put the stop in the first drilled hole and lined the bit in the drill with a pencil line on the shelf side. I didn't check to make sure that the two bits were in line with each other.

This is why my first hole was off and probably had a hand in throwing off the rest of them. I know that I had a hard time getting a feel for the spacer bit in the drilled holes. Maybe I should have used a slightly smaller sized drill bit.  I never got a complete warm and fuzzy feeling that I was in the hole (no pun intended). This not knowing definitely threw things off.

Why did I move the spacer bit holder?
I drilled two holes at the bottom of each side, one on each edge. These two holes were my reference points for drilling all the other holes. The spacer bit is in the first reference hole and the drill bit made the second hole. Repeat this until all the required holes are drilled.

this why I moved it
On one side of both, the spacer bit and drill are correct. On the opposite side the spacer bit is in the first drilled reference hole but the drill bit is on the wrong side of it. I can't step off and drill all the other holes. I don't have a large enough throat to do both sides with the same set up neither. In order to drill this side the spacer holder has to be on the right side of the drill bit. 

I could have just moved the fence but it is only 4' long. I wanted to maximize how much contact was maintained with the sides as they moved R/L to have their holes drilled. Especially the farther away from the drilling bit it got.

the fix
I am going to rout out the holes and glue in a piece of maple. I'll use a powered router to do that but the rest can be done with hand tools. Sawing an insert, chiseling the corners square, planing the insert flush, , etc etc etc.....then I can drill the holes again.

I am going to do the holes the easy way this time. I thought that this method was brilliant and fool proof. I had all the bases covered and the angles figured out. Turns out I had not KISS 'ed it (Keep it simple stupid). 

I got gob smacked by a comment Brian Eve left about dividers. As soon as I read that I thought of doing the holes this way. I had briefly entertained doing it this way at the start but skipped it. I thought my failed method would be in the stratosphere accurate. 

it starts with my single reference point again
I will draw a parallel reference line 1 1/2" from each edge. In the middle of the side (top to bottom) I will draw a square line and set the bit on that. I will transfer that mark to the fence.

the dividers are batting next
I will then step off on the parallel line and mark every 2" starting from the squared centerline, going to the top and then to the bottom. Square a line across at each 2" mark with a pencil. Align this mark with the line on the fence and drill my hole. Repeat until done. Do the same dance steps on the other side and put it together.

everything will be referenced off of this first hole
The single reference will work for me here. I'll get this first point by clamping one of  the sides to the drill press table. I can then put the fence on the align it's squared line with the this one. Sometimes you need to hear that one word to see the light. My word was dividers.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How long did Edward the VII sit on the throne before he abdicated for the woman he loved?
answer -   11 months (from Jan 20th to Dec 10th 1936)

almost june and some holes........

Wed, 05/31/2017 - 1:02am
Today is the 30th of May and there is one more day before the month of june starts. When I got up to go to work I touched the radiator and almost burned myself. My furnace kicked in again last night. Two before June, and my furnace is still coming on. This is the absolute latest I recall the furnace working to heat the house. I'm sure the gas company is thrilled with this bit of news but I'm not.

Started working on getting the opposite side holes drilled on the sides. But before I got to that I had to clean up a mountain of cardboard boxes my wife left by the back door. I'm guessing that she doesn't have the fine eye hand coordination required to use a sharp knife to cut up the boxes and put them in the shitcan. This detour took almost a half an hour to do which cut into my shop decompressing time.

forgot to make this
I should have made this when I did the first row of holes as it sets the drill bit the correct distance for the second hole.

6 trips from the bench to here
I sawed this out on my pencil line and checked it and it was too wide. I went back to the bench and planed an edge then checked it on the drill press. I had to do this dance step six times until I got it to fit without moving either drill bit.

time to move the spacer to the left side
this has to go from here to the far left lines
step one is getting the distance from the fence
Once I get the spacer drill bit in the hole I squared it to the fence.

lightly clamped - no pressure at all
I was waiting to sprout another set of arms to help me out but I couldn't wait for that to happen. So I used the clamp instead. I couldn't hold the square, drill the screws, and keep the drill hole jig up against the fence with the two arms I had.

drill bit aligns with the hole on both sides of the jig
lining up the brad point bit on the line
set the distance between the bit.
I moved the fence with hammer taps until I got block to just slip between them. I then checked to make the brad point bit was on the line.

something went south on me here
My first hole was off and I couldn't get the the spacer drill bit in it's hole. I drilled it about 1/8" to far into the middle of the side. I got that fixed and checked that it's hole was centered with the hole I drilled yesterday.

still south of where it should be
When I got to the last hole I could clearly see that I was off by an inch or so.  I missed a setting somewhere when I switched the spacer holder. Only the first two bottom holes are lined up with the opposite side, all the rest slowly moved apart.

I am not making new sides so I will have to think of something to fix this. The first thing that comes to mind is using metal shelf standards. That would mean making a pit stop at Lowes on the way home so I don't see that happening until saturday. I'll keep thinking on this and see if I can come up with something else.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Zax is the highest scoring word in the game of Scrabble. What is a Zax?
answer - a tool for cutting roof slates

I opened a can of worms.......

Tue, 05/30/2017 - 1:21am
Today's blog or the making of the blog took a wee bit longer than normal. I looked at every single picture I took today and evaluated every one of them. A lot of the pics ended up being deleted which leads me to the can of worms. I never had a problem with the flash on this camera or at least I don't recall having one. My shop is well lit so I don't think the flash is needed but it seemed every picture I took wanted the flash too. That led to a majority of the pics being crap. A lot of white wash and hard even for me to distinguish any features at all.

The worms all escaped when I tried to play with the camera settings. Things rapidly went south here and I couldn't get back to the original camera settings. I took 3 videos before I realized that I had that function selected rather than pic taking. I think I finally got it but the pics I got aren't anywhere near what I was able to shoot with the canon.

I had started emptying out the area where I want to put the new cabinet. The nearest horizontal surface was my bench so I piled it up on there. I didn't find any real surprises as I knew I had most of this crap but just not where I had hid it.

rethinking this area
The original idea I had was to make the cabinet to fit inbetween the corbels on the shelf. I did that because I didn't want to take the shelf down. That has changed and the shelf is history.  I can fit a bigger cabinet there without it but I can still use the shelf ledger. I will put the radio and the other crap on the shelf on the top of the cabinet. I still have a few more things to clear out  so I can take some measurements.

went searching above the cabinets
I was trying to find the charger for a Nikon camera I have but I had no luck. I don't know where I put it and I thought I might have taken it down to the shop. I had bought this camera the last time I had the canon fixed to use in the interim.

first find
This was on top of the cabinets and I don't remember making this.

pic number ?
I was having a lot of problems trying to snap this pic. The flash was washing it due to the whiteness of the plywood lid. This was the best out of several pics that I took. What I was trying to get a pic of was this end of the lid wasn't captured in the groove at the back. It seems I made the lid about 3/16" too short in the length.

more flash miseries shooting this end
The miters at this end are pretty good. It looks like I was trying to experiment with using a different sliding lid.

gappy dovetails and holes left from the 1/8" grooving
The flash kicked my butt with these last few pics. I even got out two lamps to put more light on this but the flash still kicked in and washed out the first pic I took of this.

another find and blast from the past
This I remember doing. I did 3 boxes on this day and all were half blind dovetails. All were done at different slope.

not bad for a first attempt
When I snapped this pic I thought it was ok. Now I can see that there is a lot of distractions all around this. I was trying to show the pins and tails - the right being better fitting than the left ones. The opposite end is a duplicate of this end. I also made the lid with my LV rabbet plane. I was making a lot of boxes at this time and making lids with 4 rabbets. Some good and a lot of bad. I was struggling at this point to get the rabbets to come out even on the corners.

dutch molding plane
I got this plane for $15 (3-4 years ago?) and I sharpened the iron and tried to plane the profile. I didn't get anywhere with it and I thought it was defective. I put it on top of the cabinets and promptly forget about it. I was going to offer it up to whoever wanted to pay for the shipping but I tried to use it one more time.

Out of all the complex molders I have, this is the only one I have been able to plane the profile on a piece of wood. I have picked up and learned a few things about molding planes since I got this. What I have learned paid off with me planing this profile. I'll be keeping this now and I'll use this for sure in the future.

I would show a pick of the profile but none of the pics I took of it came out. I stopped trying after the 9th one. I'll try it again tomorrow and see if 24 hours makes it better.

a gift from my wife
This is a letter and number stamp. The holder in the middle works like an automatic center punch but instead of leaving a divot, it makes the impression of a letter or a number. Good idea but the quality control wasn't that good on this one.  Out of the 13 letters in my name, only 8 of the bits will fit in the holder. Pretty looking but it is crappola.

3 planes I made
I made these to trim tenon cheeks to a uniform thickness. Each plane took a different size grooving plane iron. They worked but not very well. There was no place for the chips and shavings to exit the plane. I spent just as much time clearing the mouth of jams as I did planing. I am hanging on to these and maybe I'll be able to do something else with them.

decided to fix the box
I found a piece of cherry stock an 1/8" thick to plug the holes. The slitting gauge is the first 'marking gauge' I bought. I didn't realize it wasn't a marking gauge for years. I used it here to cut a strip to plug the holes.

another flash problem pic
 I got the grooving holes plugged and I fixed the gappy top dovetail. I could make a new lid but I will keep this as a pencil box as it is. I don't think the pencils will mind the gap in the lid.

foundvmy old eclipse guides hidden on the top of the cabinets
I thought I had tossed these. The top one is my first honing guide I bought a long time ago. The bottom one is a LN one that I filed after watching Deneb's video on how to soup it up. I stuck these in my sharpening drawers. You never know when you might need one of these.

two 30 year old draw knives
I bought these when I was first starting out woodworking. I had just found Roy Underhill and he said I should have a draw knife so I did him one better and got two. I have never used these beyond cleaning them up and trying to sharpen them.

A2 LN chisels
I got these and I was afraid at first to sharpen them because I thought I would screw them up. I used the first set of chisels I bought years before and used these LN ones sparingly. I got a set of O1 Ashley Iles bench chisels and I haven't looked back. I plan on using the LN chisels to chop mortises because they are thicker and stouter then the Ashley Iles are. I'm not afraid of sharpening these now for when that time comes up.

getting a shine on the #2 lever cap
Most of the pebbled look is gone and there are only a few spots that still have it. I sanded this with 150 grit and it raised some shine and smoothed it more. I am going to next use 180 and finish with 220. The black on my hands isn't as dark or as bad as it was yesterday. I didn't get hardly any when I scraped it again but the sandpaper is still making it.

working on the bookcase (landscape mode on the camera)
The books are piling up in my wife's office and I have to get this going. The two sides and a drilling jig are on the bench. I decided to drill the holes for the shelf pins now rather than after it is together.

left side batting first
The drilling jig is a left over piece from the top or bottom. It is the same size as the sides and I got it flushed with it here.  This jig will drill the first two holes at the bottom of the sides. All the other holes will be drilled at the drill press. Solved the flash shooting off on every pic but now it's on the dark side.

pin spacing jig
The shelf pin drill is a 7/32 brad point bit and the spacer drill bit is the same size. The idea is to put the spacer drill bit in one of the two holes I drilled already. That will place the second hole to be drilled 2" away once I set that up. 

2" spacing

starting hole jig
The jig is also used for setting the sides the right distance from the edge and to make sure that all four of the starting holes line up.

line up the marks
I penciled a line on the left side of the spacer drill bit. I then align that mark with the mark on the fence after the hole is drilled and I moved the shelf to the right. This is to help align the drilled hole with the spacer hole. Dropping the spacer drill bit into it is a blind operation. There is no way I can see the two holes aligned and I had to do it by feel.

one edge drilled on both sides
I have to rest the spacer drill holder to the other side.  This is where the starting drill jig comes in handy because it will set the first hole correctly. I will drill the other side tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Marie Joseph Paul Yves Roch Gilbert du Motier?
answer - the Marquis de Lafayette, America's Revolutionary War Ally

official start to summer......

Mon, 05/29/2017 - 12:48am
I remember working in my uncle's motel at the beach when I was a teenager. Memorial day weekend was the start of the summer season and it was mostly young people that got rooms then. My uncle preferred families but they usually didn't start coming until the 4th of July. I did that for 3 years in a row and I have a lot of good memories of that time. This memorial day weekend has been on the cool side with today being overcast. The sun occasionally peeked out and said hello but it has mostly been on the dreary side.

oh dark thirty quiet work
I had two coats of the poly on this and I hadn't planned on putting anymore. But this early in the morning I could only do quiet things so I slathered on another coat. The poly should afford a minimal amount of protection for when I use this.

#2 lever cap
Sanding this was quiet work. I think that this lever cap was derusted because it shows evidence of that. The surface is pitted and feels like sandpaper. It has a pebbled look across the entire front face and the sandpaper isn't knocking it down all that quick. This 100 grit paper was just turning mostly black along with my hands. I tried using gloves but they rip and tear too easily.

the pebbled look and feel
This was pic #3 I took of this. The first two were blurry but 3 is a charm for pics too.

I scraped it
I remember seeing a Japanese You Tube video where the person was cleaning a piece of metal by scraping it. I decided to use a dull sheet rock knife and see if it would work here. It does.

There still has a pebbled look but when I scraped this I got a mountain of black something. After the black stuff was scraped, I continued and I could feel the lever cap getting smoother.

looks smoother now
The sheet rock knife scraped a bit of the pebbled look away and I'm not sure if I can get this to look any better than what it is now.

I'll take the smooth feeling
After scraping it smooth I sanded it again with the 100 grit. The sides shined up a lot better than the face did. I'm not done with this yet. I don't have any new sheet rock knives and I want to try the scraping again with a new blade. Either way, I'm going to sand this at least up to 220 but I'll do that later.

flushed this end with the 4 1/2
This side was quick to do because it was only proud by a strong 1/32".

round over changed
I tried to plane the round over as I flushed but stopped. I was making matters worse trying to do two things at once. I did the flushing first and did the round overs last.

almost an 1/8" to flush on this end

Did this with the 4 1/2 too. I set the iron a bit deeper and when I got close I retracted it.

marked the round overs
The left side was the most proud and it's round over really isn't much different than the right one.

second round overs done
I did these with a chisel followed by sandpaper.

thought I had gotten lucky
I must have broken this piece off when I put this in the vise. This looks like it came from here but it didn't.

I squared this up with a chisel
rasped it one last time
I liked the rounded part with it ending up squared off and down. I couldn't get the full profile I had before I broke it, so I did enough so that I could see it.

I'm not liking this new home
this is where I want it to live
the burnishers are in the way
The burnisher on the far right is the problem. It is hard to take out and put back because of where the screwdriver holder above it is. I can rearrange this a bit. The burnishers and the holder for the scrapers can go elsewhere.

The burnisher shelf has an 'arm' that was screwed into the top of the ledger that is screwed into the wall. I unscrewed it from the top and screwed it back into the bottom.  I moved the scraper holder back up to it's original position when I first made this.

This was the last picture that I will ever take with the canon G12. It was working ok and I had hopes it would last until I got a new one but it wasn't to be. I had a mind fart sweeping off the bench and put the canon airborne. It said hello to Mr Concrete Floor so the last time. The LCD screen broke off and I chipped the lens and cracked the shutter. It was burnt toast for sure now.

got some therapy in
This is a Canon G12 after it has had the snot beat out of it with a ball peen hammer. I can see why this camera has almost no shock resistance. 99% of this camera is made out of plastic. There was one piece of metal that all the plastic parts were attached to. For such an expensive camera, it looks to be cheaply made. With the exception of the glass lens(or maybe it was plastic too), the entire lens assembly was plastic.

knob drilling guide
I worked some on the kitchen today. About all that is left is to put on the hardware and install the base moldings again. I had put in new baseboard molding before the kitchen demolishing and I saved it to put it back. I know Rockler sells knob and handle jigs but this is ridiculously easy to make.
right and left side
Set this on the corner of the door, clamp it, and drill a straight and square hole. Attach the knob. Repeat for the remaining doors.

the handle guide
I only have two drawers to attach handles to. The package said they were on 3" centers but I wanted to verify that. These were made in China and I have come across these being marked 3" OC but they were metric.

marked the center
I marked the centerline between the screw holes. I used this mark to align it with the centerline of the drawer. Did these the same way as I did the knobs.

forgot I had this
This was buried in the rubble of crap I had where the new brush and shellac cabinet is going. The top one was still dead on but I had to reset the bottom arm. The arms are plywood as is the rest of the jig, but I glued on a couple pieces of oak on the ends of the arm.

dead nuts 90°
The inside and the outside are both dead nuts 90°.

I think I am finally mastering miters
I the 4 1/2 was easier to use on these miters than the LN 51 is. I didn't have to fuss with this miter clamp at all. Usually when I use this I have to tap and shift one leg into place as I apply clamp pressure but not today.

These last 3 pics were taken with my Sanyo and this last one was the fourth one I took. The first 3 had a flash and there was a big white circle in the middle of the pic obscuring the miter clamps and the joint line. So until I get my new camera, this is what I have to work with.

I checked around and no one has the TG-4 or the TG-5 for sale. I decided to go with the TG-5 not for the 4K capabilities but because the CMOS circuitry has been updated and improved. You can preorder but none of the sites say when it will be available. I find a forum on the TG cameras and it said it would be in june. The Olympus site doesn't say anything about when it will ship or be available. I'll preorder mine this payday and wait.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How much did the Apollo moon suits weigh?
answer - on earth 180 pounds, on the moon 30 lbs

reversed myself........

Sun, 05/28/2017 - 1:54am
I got a comment today about the pics on my blog and it made me think about it a lot. The most important part of the understanding was me realizing I had my head so far up my ass I had pull my zipper down to see where I was walking. I had said in my blog that if I could see a pic I took, I was happy - paraphrasing here a bit. I shouldn't be happy with a pic I can see and understand. I should be happy about a pic a reader of my blog is seeing and that he/she understands it. A pic is worth a thousand words and the pics I take should mutually support the keyboard diarrhea I output too.

So I have made a reversal on pic taking. I still want to learn photography about as much as I want to grow a third eye in the middle of forehead, but........I decided to learn or at least try and do better with the pics I snap. I usually do them on the fly and I'll admit that I don't put the same effort into them that I do on my woodworking. That will be change #1.

Change #2 is I will try to learn something about snapping pics. I have decided I am getting the TG Olympus camera, hopefully the TG-4. I have already looked into accessories filters for it. Bob told me what macro was and there is a macro filter for the TG camera. There is also  3 filter set for taking pics outside and another one for taking pics under fluorescent lights. This one I would probably use in my shop.

In the interim I am stuck with my ten year Sanyo (which is a 10MP not a 1MP) and my soon to be a paperweight Canon G12. I got it working after threatening to give it flying lessons but I don't know how long it is going to work. The LCD screen hinge is half broke and the CMOS circuit is acting up. The CMOS not dying is what will drive how long the G12 limps along.

almost done
 I put on the last coat of shellac and all that is left is to rub it out with some wax. I'll be trying out the 4-0 synthetic stuff when I do that. I'm going to let this set and cure for a few days before I do that.

the back view and a bench reflection
I usually let the end grain dictate to me how many coats of shellac I need to put on. Once the end grain looks smooth and not open pored, I know I'm done.

my ten year old Sanyo
This is where I saw that it was a 10MP camera but the pics I take it with aren't that good. 10MP is a good number but the pic rendering circuitry and the DPI (dots per inch) means a lot more. Not many cameras I have been looking at post anything on this. The Sanyo is in standby and if the G12 goes south on me before I get a TG model, this will be promoted.

reversed myself here too
I put two coats of this on the stone holder I just made. I won't be putting a chamfer or a round over on it. This is gloss poly thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits. After reading an article by Bob Flexner on wipe on poly and how to make your own, I won't ever be buying it again.

home for the new brush and shellac cabinet
I changed my mind on the original spot for this. I started to clear this area up and I couldn't believe the crap I was finding. The cabinet is going between the corbels of the shelf.

to the left of the spokeshaves was spot #1 for the cabinet
The more I thought about putting a cabinet here, the more I didn't like it. Mostly because I would be restricted in how deep I wanted to make it.

the family jewels knocker
It is a tight squeeze at this end of the bench and between the wall. I can't wait to make the new workbench and be rid of that screw hanging out like this. Having a cabinet added here would be double jeopardy.

the brush and shellac cabinet wood
These are all the solid pieces of wood left over from me dismantling the old kitchen cabinets. Even if I make a boo-boo, there is more than enough wood here to make two.

finding these sucked
I just bought some black and primer rattle cans for the #2 rehab and now I find this. I found this clearing out the new area for the upcoming brush and shellac cabinet.

switched lanes
I had to get a screwdriver but in order to get it I had to take this box off first. I really dislike moving even one thing to get to the tool/thing I want. I need to make a holder for these to eliminate this PITA. (four pics above this one shows the problem)

first layout
This isn't too bad but a little on the plain Jane side. I have the room for this length but I don't like the look of it.

one in back of the other looks better to me
With this setup I can fit all five of these in a smaller footprint.

the new screwdriver holder
This is a bad pic but not my fault. This is the CMOS on the G12 throwing a hissy fit and this will continue to get worse. What it shows is all the pieces for the holder coming from one piece of wood. I didn't plan it this way, I just got lucky. The top thin piece is the apron, the biggest piece is the shelf, and the smallest one will be the corbel.

another bad G12 CMOS acting up pic
Since this holder doesn't involve a lot of weight nor will it be subjected to any stress, the small corbel should be sufficient here. I haven't shaped that yet - this is just how the rough parts will come together.

scribed a line and planed down to it
This made the two long edges parallel. I am really starting to like having the 5 1/2 on the bench. I could have used the 4 1/2 but I like the longer length of the 5 1/2l for things like this.

made a shallow rabbet
I could have glued these two long grain edges together and not done the rabbet. The rabbet makes it easier to position the apron and glue it.

planed the rabbet and the shoulder with the 10 1/2
I planed the shallow rabbet first and then I planed the shoulder square until the the apron was flush with the back. I had to take just one more swipe though and the top is proud of the back now. I will flush this up after I get it glued and it has set up.

another bad CMOS pic
Getting dark or bright pics and having it change as you trying to focus the pick is a good indication that the CMOS is becoming toast. The camera shop that fixed my G12 twice said that the life expectancy of  the CMOS in the G12 is only 3-5 years. Can you see the shallow start of a dado? This  is to hold the corbel in place as it is glued in place.

notch in the corbel is the last step
The notch will set on top the back of the apron and in the shallow dado on the apron.

something else to flush up once the glue up has set up
my first woodworking aid
I got this in 1995 and it will mark a radius on a corner from 1/2" up to 2" by 1/4". I don't remember the cost but I do remember having a hard time paying the asking price for it. My wanting it obviously won out.

finding a drill bit for the burnisher
did it this way for the screwdrivers too
This is one benefit of having a drill index. It takes the guess work out of finding the right drill bit to match the tool.

this part is done
All of the screwdrivers have a conical taper at the end of the shaft where it meets the handle. I would like to have them seated a little further down but I don't have anything that will make a taper. And especially an all in one tapering tool that would do small to big.

screw extractors
These look like they might work on the smaller screwdrivers. This is one point in a project build where I weigh the risks of trying something new and turning all the work up to this point into toast. Not all my ideas bear fruit or are worth repeating.

kind of worked
The fore front screwdriver has a hole that is too big. The back screwdriver is a frog hair too big. I didn't have to try it on the two bigger ones.

rounded over the corners
This is a first for me. I sawed most of the waste off and finished the round overs with the spokeshave. My first time doing a round over on both corners with a spokeshave. It looks like I am finally coming to terms with this tool.

gluing up in stages
I glued the corbel to the back apron first. I had to fiddle a bit with the vertical clamp to get the corbel square but I finally got it. After this set up for an hour, I glued the shelf on this.

I took a nap today. I gave up fighting to keep the peepers open and did the light leak test for 2 hours. Woke up refreshed so I may have to do this again.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
 Who was Goyahkla?
answer - the indian chief and medicine man, Geronimo

searching for a camera........

Sat, 05/27/2017 - 12:48am
There is a plethora of point and shoot digital cameras available to buy. Everyone is hawking just about every brand under the sun which makes it difficult to pick one out.  Especially someone like me who is 5 ladder rungs below a neophyte still sucking on his thumb. First and foremost I have absolutely no desire to learn photography. This is why I want a point and shot camera. As long as I can see the pic and identify what I took a pic of, I'm happy. I don't care about shades of gray and black, azimuth lines, f stops, over exposure, or any other technical sounding photography crappola. Zero interest in all of it. I would rather dribble a basketball in a mine field than learn photography.

I want a camera that can survive a 3 foot fall off of my workbench. Well technically, 3 feet 1 1/8" depending upon where I measure it. Taking pics with the camera that just went south on me wasn't the problem. Having it fail the bounce test 3 times was. After this last lost to Mr. Concrete Floor I have been evaluating what I need and want in a new camera.

I asked Bob (the Valley Woodworker) because I know he collects cameras and he gave me a couple of good suggestions. Brian Eve said his Olympus TG-3 was a good shop camera. (I checked those specs and I was impressed with them) The TaDaMan left a link for KEH.com which looked pretty good but every camera I checked/wanted was out of stock. I need a replacement camera sooner than later.

So want do I think I need? A camera without a retractable lens system. The loser camera has a retractable lens system. No more needs to be said on that. Secondly, a camera that does not use AA or AAA batteries. Here I don't mind buying extra 'special' battery packs. I bought a AA charger and rechargeable batteries and I didn't like it. I gave that to my wife. Thirdly, I need a camera that can survive a fall without turning into a paperweight. And lastly, a camera that won't necessitate me remortgaging my house to buy.

So far the Olympus TG models meet 3 of the criteria I am looking for. The newest model is the TG-5 which will shoot 4K video which I don't care about or need. So I can scratch the 5 off the list. I can't find any 'aha' differences between the TG-3 or the TG-4 models. But both the TG-3 and the TG-4 are out of stock at every site I'm checking.. But strangely, some sites have the cost of the TG-3 more then the TG-4.

The Olympus TG-4 has a few capabilities which I know I'll never use (taking pics underwater) but it has one that makes it the leading contender. That one is the shock resistance from a 7 foot fall. Since my workbench is only about 3 feet tall, I would only be using 50% of it. What I don't like about it is the cost which so far is running over $400 on a lot of sites. I have the money saved up but those dollars are earmarked for the new workbench but I may have to divert those funds for this.

checking for twist
 Before I finished cleaning up the bottom on this holder, I checked the top for twist. I noticed that the router dug in a little deeper in one spot while routing. I thought it might have been caused by twist but it wasn't. It was probably me leaning a tad to heavy on one of the router knobs at that point.

the bit I used to waste the interior
Out of all of the forstner bits I've used, this FAMAG bit is at the top of the list by itself.

looks like a standard forstner bit
This bit makes an absolutely straight and smooth walled hole with almost no effort. With the depth stop on the drill press set, the bottom of the holder is almost perfectly level everywhere.

I could have used my largest Stanley bit
I would have ended up with a lot less center spur divots had I used this one.

this one leaves a large radius corner
Again, I could have used the FAMAG bit to do the corners but I picked it to do it all. The Stanley forstner bits I have aren't that sharp. I didn't want to attempt to hog out this much wood with it.

it would not have worked Frank
With the iron up against one wall, the opposite end of the router is off the opposite wall. I would have had to put a sub base on this in order to work the bottom of the holder. This answers a question from my friend Frank who said the LN router would have worked too.

just noticed this
I thought the holder was one piece of wood but it is three pieces glued together.

this is next
I measured this and it is roughly 13x10 and I don't have any stock I could use for this. I have a piece of rough sawn poplar but I think that would be a poor choice. I have seen Paul Sellers make a 3 stone holder out of plywood and pine (which I think would be another poor choice) but maybe he used a european pine from Norway or Sweden. This is something that was added to the A+++ list today.

the bottom had a hump
I tried the holder on a piece of shelf liner and it rocked slightly side to side. So the shelf liner is history and the hook is in. This hook turned like a helicopter rotor telling me I had a hump. I planed it out with the 4 1/2, checking my progress with the hook. Once that dragged on both edges, I was done.

quick check to make sure I had no twist
gluing and screwing the hook on
The pencil lines are on the outside edges of the center board of the holder. I applied glue inbetween the two lines and secured it to the holder with two screws.

no burn in logo just my initials and the date
hook is flush now
The screws shifted the hook making it proud on one side and inset on the other. I used my new 5 1/2 to flush the sides and the hook.

It's new home
This takes up less than a third of the space that the previous holder did. I'm thinking of planing a chamfer on the four edges or maybe a round over. I am not putting a finish on this as of this writing but that may change. Once the glue cooks on the hook this will be 100% done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the layer between the the stratosphere and ionosphere?
answer - the mesosphere

stone holder round 3.......

Fri, 05/26/2017 - 12:01am
Tonight was all to do with stone holder #3. The only thing I did with the bookshelf was to move it off the bench. I have until after june 10th to be done with that so the sun will still rise tomorrow. The important stuff happened with a new design for the stone holder. And that came via a comment from Antony. The design is an old one but for me it was something new. I got to try a new technique making it and I think I tamed the side rabbet planes too.

I can get two out of this
At first I thought that this was a left over piece of stair tread but it isn't. It is a piece of ash left over from an old trestle table. I cut a piece over an inch wider than the stone is wide. That will give me about a 1/2" on each side. The top to bottom will also be about a 1/2" too.

squaring the stone to the wood
I got 5/8" on both sides of the long edges. The top and bottom I set by eye. I got it clamped to the bench so I can knife all around it.

knife lines
My cross grain knifing came out good. It is defined and visible but the long grain edges are not the same. I went slowly on these because I didn't want the knife to catch the grain and wander off into La La Land. I carefully knifed the lines again with a ruler so I could lay a chisel in them.

drilling the waste
I set the fence and drilled the two long outside edges first. The depth is about half the thickness of the stone here. After the long edges I did the top and bottom short edges. I had to reset the fence because the drill was a tad over the line on the second one. After that I drilled out the waste in the middle.

much quicker doing it this way first

2 inch bench chisel
This chisel is awesome to use. It is like having a #4 plane in your hands that can also chop vertically. I used it bevel down to remove the waste the drill didn't get and to chop the outline on the knife lines. This chisel is sharp but it has a small chip on the bevel edge. I'll be promoting this to  the A+++ list to be fixed immediately.

top to bottom fit is good
side to side is off
I am 1-2 frog hairs shy on the width. All the edges of the stone align with the edges of the holder with no gaps but it doesn't quite fit.

I could tap it home
If I were going to leave the stone in the holder without ever taking it out, I would be done now. But I like to have my stones removable so I can clean them after each use. Two gentle taps and I got the stone to start to seat but I stopped. I am not done fitting this and if I tapped it home it might not come back out.

tonight I will figure these out
I have to shave the long edges to get a slip fit plus on this. The wood will probably swell a bit through use so I need some wiggle room for that and the stone.

shavings and lots of them
I think I figured out what I've been doing wrong with these planes.

I looked at this
The way I've been setting the depth was to put the plane on the edge, drop it and let it bottom out. Once bottomed out, I would set the depth stop and get nowhere trying to make shavings.When I looked at that tonight I saw that the bottom of the iron was way too deep. It was right on the bottom of the holder. I set the depth of the iron by eye so that the small flat on the bottom of the iron was just above the bottom of the holder. The results speak for themselves. Problem solved.

fits, comes out and goes back in easily
No binding or hangups anywhere even when I flipped the stone 180 and tried it again.

the stone is proud
I want the stone to be proud because I use it to flatten the backs of my tools.  This is enough clearance to do that on all four sides.

need a consistent depth
I like the long length of this router. I can rout anywhere on the interior and still have a lot of the router bearing down on the outside walls without it feeling tippy. I didn't even consider using the LN router on this.

I can one but not the other
I can rout away the circle left by the outer rim of the bit but the center divot is iffy. I am just about dead nuts where I want the projection of the stone to be. If I go deeper to rout the center spur points I may end up with the stone being flush. Or worse, slightly inset down into the holder.

these will be hidden
I am almost done getting the depth routed but it was 1700 and I quit here. One or maybe two clean up passes and this will be done. I would have liked to have had no holes but I will remember this for the next one I make.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Henry the VIII had 7 children with his many wives. How many of them sat on the British throne?
answer - 3

disaster day.....

Thu, 05/25/2017 - 1:09am
Had one major and one minor disaster today. The major one sucks and it'll be expensive to fix. The minor one is more of an 'aw shit', toss it, and start over again. My canon camera failed the bounce test with Mr. Concrete floor again for the 3rd time. The lens won't open or retract all the time and I get a  lens error when it doesn't open or close. I got it to work a few times by manually pulling the lens open but that isn't something I want to do for every pic I snap in the shop.

The canon camera I have sucks in that I can't just replace the faulty lens. I not only have to replace the entire lens assembly but also the CMOS circuitry that makes the pics. The last time this happened it cost me $225. It is not something I want to shell out $$$ for again. Besides that, the last time I had it done the camera guy said parts were getting hard to find for it. I found the camera I started taking pics with when I started this blog 10 years ago. I'll use that until I figure out what to do next in the pic snapping department.

so far it's working
My experiment is paying off. I had put on several coats of shellac on the bottom of the feet and let them cure for about a week plus. The bookshelf has been on the workbench for 3-4 days and the feet are still clean. What I would do in the past was to put the shellac on and wait about a half hour and set the bookcase on it's feet to apply finish to the rest of it. The downside to that is the finish wasn't fully cured and hard yet so any debris on the bench ended up on the feet. As you can see the feet are still clean.

working on the stone holder
I need to make the dado for the wedge that will capture the stone and keep it from moving.

bandsawed the wedge and squared it up
waste removal next
I am not going to use two opposing wedges. Instead I am using one wedge and the dado to do my holding. My reasoning is that I don't need opposing wedges here and this looks like it will work.

waste removed, router will get me to a consistent depth
wee bit too deep with the saw on this wall
first hiccup
With the wedge secured in the dado, the stone isn't secured at all. I can push it right off the holder with my pinkie. I should have knifed my line on the left side of the pencil and not the right. There is a very slight gap between the end of the stone and the wall of the dado.

side rabbets 4, me %%$#^^@@=&*( zero
All I seem to be able to do with these are to make a couple of shavings and dig a groove at the bottom of the dado.

same luck on the left side
I tried using both side rabbet planes on both sides coming from different directions. The only thing I succeeded at was making the groove at the bottom. I'll have to make some test grooves in pine and spend some quality time figuring out how to use these planes.

disaster I forgot
 I had to make the dado 2 frog hairs wider and I almost made it. Pulling this back after making the cut on the tablesaw it slipped and made this cut.

the wedge is cocked
The stone extends over the left side of the wall 3 frog hairs. I thought maybe the right wall wasn't plumb but it is as is the left one too. I think maybe the stone extends 2 frog hairs too much over the left edge of the dado.

should have done it this way?
Maybe the opposing wedges need to act against each other? And not the top of the stone edge. Or maybe my single wedge idea is half baked and needs a half dovetail on the left to keep it from cocking?

road test up coming
The right side corner got dinged somehow and rolled a sizeable burr down onto the back. I will have to fix the bevel and sharpen this again. I got the wedge to seat on the bottom of the dado and not be cocked.

it is working on both
The stone isn't moving and I'm grinding a new bevel.

the wedge is cocking
shelf liner
I don't have a hook on this and I purposely used the shelf liner to test it. The stone didn't budge or move in any direction at all. At least something went right for me tonight. On stone holder #3 I'll also go without a hook. If the shelf liner fails the hook is something I can easily add. Without it, it makes stowing the holder easier because it will lay flat.

I don't know what I'm going to do with this holder. I could glue the wedge in place and start over but I'll revisit this tomorrow.

I only have a couple of coats of 3lb shellac on this and I'm picking up reflections in the side off of the bench. I am still going to put on at least two more coats. I will steel wool this tomorrow and put on two more and evaluate it again then.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the oldest US Greek letter college society?
answer - Phi Beta Kappa established at the college of William and Mary in 1776

started the new stone holder.......

Wed, 05/24/2017 - 12:56am
Today was mostly sunny but now that the day is almost done, it is turning more and more cloudy. According to the weather seers, this is the last sun we'll see until next week. Each day is neither forecasted to be cloudy or will rain with some days having both. As long as it doesn't rain in the shop I'll be a happy camper.

an oops
The beading plane veered off and I left a long divot here. Rather then replace it, I sanded it out as best I could. With the black frame it is hard to see and there is no mistaking the hand made look of this.

I'm so happy with this I could wet myself
The color came out deep and uniform on the entire frame.  One more coat of shellac and this will be done.

last rub down with 4-0 steel wool
At the top right, forward part of the frame you can see the divot. The shellac flour is highlighting it.

got my two inch hake brush
 The cabinet just has to be big enough to hang these vertically.
the proposed home of said cabinet
This is roughly 19 inches square but the cabinet won't be square. It has to be a minimum of 14" high for the brushes and I'm shooting for 16ishx12ish. It also might be made out of 1/2" plywood because I have several pieces of it hanging around the shop.

1/2 x 6 x24 poplar
I have about 1 1/2 inches to play with. With 1/4" back I'm down to about an inch. I would rather have a warm and fuzzy with the depth being 2" before the cabinet back. But that will be driven by how much projection I can have on the wall. I still have to walk by here and I don't want to have to do special dance steps to get from point A to point B.

first piece of scrap white oak
I want to make this holder out of white oak because it is going to get wet. This piece would probably work but I want the bottom of the stone to rest entirely on wood. I have another piece of white oak but it is rough sawn and I would have to 6 square it before I can make a stone holder with it.

found a bigger piece
This white oak was surprisingly easy to cross with the sash saw. I wasn't expecting it to be like this and the bonus is I got a relatively clean crosscut.

squared a reference edge with my new 5 1/2

I'll use the off cut to make the wedges
no twist
After I checked for twist, I smoothed this surface with the #3.

the plan
I'll make two dadoes at each end. The near end will be glued in place. With this design I don't need any side stops and I will be able to take and put the stone on the holder easily.

this end will get a dado for the two wedges
sawed the two walls for the bottom dado
I've been trying to use chisels more for this and this is a good opportunity to practice. Removed most of the waste with the 1/4 bench chisel and smoothed it to depth with the paring chisel.

did pretty good this time
wee bit tight
I did this purposely so I could get some practice with the side rabbet planes.

using the 4 1/2 to thin it
I still have a ways to go with the side rabbet planes. I was able to make some shavings but then I got nothing. The stop was still too tight to fit and that is why I used the 4 1/2.

fits snugly here but too tight on the near side
Took a few more swipes before there was joy in Mudville.

snug fit side to side
 The left side won't seat fully.

it is not rocking
It is rocking like I expecting but it is tapered. One end of the dado is higher than the other one.

the offending end
I got the groove to depth with the small router plane.

glued and cooking
One dado done and tomorrow I'll make the one for the wedges.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What does the word "amen" mean?
answer - so be it or let it be

the rain is back.....

Tue, 05/23/2017 - 12:58am
I thought april showers bring may flowers. It seems the rain and flowers, along with months, are on different schedules. We just had a couple of warm, humid,sunny days, and the forecast is for rain or cloudy skies right through memorial day weekend. And this after going through a week plus of the same crap. The temps are much cooler hanging out in the high 50's/low 60's which is perfect for me. I don't work wood outside so the cloudy or rainy stuff doesn't bother me. Except that I seemed to have gotten too fat and too slow to stay dry by running inbetween rain drops anymore.

time to see if anything stuck together
nothing stuck
Maybe the blue painters tape acts like waxed paper. I was expecting some tape to adhere to this seam. The epoxy is not quite flush with the top but being flush isn't critical here.

same thing on this side
I know some epoxy got on top of the metal insert because I saw it flow out on the edges onto the top. The tape didn't stick to it and the insert feels solid.

passed the tap test
I rapped this on the bench on both sides and it took it without whimpering.This is a very solid feeling repair.

it fits
As you can see I no longer have a zero clearance insert. For that matter I don't think it was ever a zero clearance insert. The only hiccup with this I can see is that I am closer to the blade on the left side than I remember it.

trying it again
I got a comment from Stephen on these and he said he used them with polish or rubbing compound to shine/clean metal. I tried it on the certificate frame and it didn't perform any better than it did on the bookshelf. I did have a thought that maybe I can use this to rub out the frame and bookshelf with wax. I will give that a try and see what shakes out with that.

For the rest of the week the frame and bookshelf will be sharing the #1 spot on the Workshop hit parade. I will slip in making a new stone holder sometime this week too. I've been thinking of something new with that.

step one with the bookshelf
The bookshelf feels like sandpaper. It is covered in dust nibs everywhere. I used the card scraper to remove them and flatten out the shellac at the same time.

small card scraper on the long grain edges
I have tried using the bigger card scraper on these thinner edges and I tend to scrape the outside edges and slightly bevel them. Still have that problem with the smaller one but not as frequently and it's usually because I am watching what I'm doing.

gave the 4-0 a good workout

this looks good
I think one more coat of 3lb shellac and this will be done. I'll bring this to the frame store this weekend.

I love the look of the back slats
I really like how the back slats seem to grow out of the sides. I got one 3lb coat on this but unlike the frame, this is going to get 4-6 coats before I'm done with it.

my hake brushes
I just ordered another one of these and it's coming via prime from Amazon. I would like to make a box to keep the 3 of them in it but maybe this time I'll go crazy and do something different. I keep them in the powered router cabinet now but I would like something better. Instead of a box I am thinking of making a shallow cabinet to keep the brushes and the shellac cans in. The main point of the cabinet will be to allow the brushes to hang vertically so everything else will be designed around that.

solid wood is my first choice
Adding extra storage for the shellac cans was an after thought  The spot I want to put this cabinet won't work if it is much deeper that 5-6 inches. I'm also restricted in the height and width but this is something that will have to wait until the weekend or beyond.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What do J.C. Penny's initials stand for?
answer - James Cash

relaxing weekend.......

Mon, 05/22/2017 - 12:29am
I slowed down a lot, for me anyways, this weekend. I still have a lot of things on my A+ list to get done but I am not going to obsess about checking every item off in one day. I only checked one thing off the list today and played with a few others but that was it. I am going to tic off a lot of the little things and the big ones will have to wait. I have a lot of maintenance things I need to attend to and cross off the list before the bookcase or stand up desk gets made.

took it apart to try and salvage it

part of a chinese oak stair tread
The top and bottom has a thick veneer of oak cross banded in the middle with another wood (?). I got it at Home Depot 3-4 years ago and I still have a few pieces kicking around in the shop.

X marks the high corners
the other side isn't twisted
But it does have a hump in the middle. I was going to try and salvage this but after seeing this, it is toast. I'll have to make another one of these quick because I don't have a holder for the coarsest diamond stone.

miter box saw
The bottom edge of the spine was ragged out a bit. It drew blood when I ran my finger tip along it. I filed this going straight across the spine on a diagonal trying to avoid filing the whole width. I just wanted to file the bottom edge corner.

wasn't 100% successful with that
This side of the spine was worse than the other side.

the spine bottom will ride on top of these
the arm's pivot circle
This is scored some in a couple of spots around the diameter. I lightly sanded it with a wooden block and 320 grit sandpaper just to remove the burrs.

the table pivot point
I don't know if there was any grease on this because Phil did an awesome job of rehabbing this. The pivot point on my 358 was packed with grease. This diameter has signs of scoring too but I don't know if there is any binding yet. I haven't attached the arm yet to check that out.

the legs don't lie flat
they don't lay flat on all four points
I can get 3 points down with this one up. If I put this one down, two points are off the bench. I'll have to take these off and even them up somehow.

made a Wally World run
The stripper is for wood and metal and it is the first time I've seen one come in a rattle can. The primer and gloss black are for the #2 plane body. The Red 'N' Tacky I've never heard of. I was looking for a smaller tube of grease but the selection at Wally World was a bit on the lean side. I picked this one because it says on the tube that it is good for sliding parts. I'll be using this grease on the miter box pivot point.

the bottom of the spine
This is the part of the spine that rides on the round bearings at the top of the saw posts. It looks like it hasn't been an entirely smooth ride for this saw. The scallops came from my 358 miter box and not this one. I can file them flattish but it is going to take a while. Not something I want to do today so I'll do a little each day until I get it done.

the one thing I checked off the A+ list
My main focus today was working on the kitchen. Like I did last weekend, I did a little on the kitchen, took a break, did a little bit in the shop, and started the cycle all over again.

I'm going to put a piece of metal in this pie shaped indentation to strengthen it. I don't want to rely solely on the epoxy holding this together.

first step is to make a rubbing of the metal piece

step 2 - glue it to the donor
step 3 - file the outline
step 4 - the filing will guide the cutoff wheel
roughly done

This thing was hot when I got done. How do I know this? Because I'm the idiot who tried to pick it up right after I got done cutting it out. I threw it in some water to cool it down so I could handle it.

wee bit too fat
I thought that this was going to fit off the dremel. I had cut the rubbing out on the inside of the lines but it wasn't enough.

a little filing and checking batted next
pretty good fit
This part of the insert doesn't touch on anything. It is out in the air so I don't have to worry about it effecting the fit.

ready to epoxy in place
I sanded the side of the insert being epoxied and cleaned it with mineral spirits before I did that.

backside of the coarsest diamond stone
I'm using this because it is flat and convenient. I don't need the insert ending up in a vee either in or out.

cooking until tomorrow
I have gotten a few comments about trying synthetic steel wool and I finally got some. I got a two pack of 4-0 and I'll compare it to my metal 4-0 steel wool.

used it on this end
I didn't get a lot of feed back from using this. This seemed to be gliding over the wood without 'sanding'. And it still felt rough after I went over the whole end. The pad didn't show hardly any wear or use and there wasn't any shellac flour neither.

the real stuff
I could not only feel the steel wool cutting, I could see it to. This made a lot of shellac flour and the surface was considerably smoother to the touch than the white stuff. The steel wool pad looks used also.

tried it on the long grain edge
against steel wool on the other long edge edge
The synthetic stuff was a bit better on this test. It didn't generate any shellac flour but there was a hint of this being a bit smoother.  I still give the edge to the real stuff. It was smoother to the touch and there was shellac flour to see.

results weren't any better on the poplar
the winner is the real stuff
The 4-0 real steel wool is a much better performer than the synthetic stuff.  This cuts, smooths and although it leaves tiny metal bits behind, I'll continue to use it. Using a vacuum cleaner afterwards is a part of using it.

the loser
This is good idea but it didn't perform anywhere near as well as the metal steel wool does. It didn't generate any dust nor did it seem to knock down and smooth the shellac. I was a bit disappointed in it but maybe the 4-0 is too fine for sanding inbetween coats on the shellac. It doesn't matter because I'll keep on using the metal stuff.

four coats of 1 lb cut on the certificate frame
4 coats on the end tops too
The clock fits with 1 1/8" to spare. It looks funny having the clock up that high so this may change. But my wife is happy with the plate rail and that is all that matters to me.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many people have won the Grand Slam in golf?
answer - Bobby Jones did it 1930 (before the Masters) Tiger Woods held all four titles in a row but not in the same calendar year