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Accidental Woodworker

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The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2458125
Updated: 2 hours 32 min ago

fun filled day,,,,,,,,,

Thu, 02/16/2017 - 2:21am
I took wed to fri off from work to finish installing the kitchen cabinets. I'll do my thing in the morning and my wife will do hers in the afternoon. I started day one by going to Home Depot and Harbor Freight. I also made a pit stop at Starbucks to get some fresh mojo. Can't work without the kick start in the AM.

yesterday's repair
The top to middle glued up ok but the bottom lost a chunk that I couldn't glue in.

glue blocks at the front only
The more I look at this the more I see total crap. The glue blocks at the front aren't glue blocks. They were stapled in place with a bead of silicone applied on the outside.

front corner of the toe kick
There was absolutely no glue on the toe kick board anywhere. No screws or nails holding it in place neither.

twisted 2x4
I removed the twist in this and then sawed it in half. From the two halves I made 4 vertical corner and 8 glue blocks.

horizontal glue blocks
I planed two reference faces that will be glued to corners. I planed a bit off on the inside so the sides of the blocks will lay up tight to the sides of the cabinet.

glue blocks
Sawing these four in half so I will have 8 blocks total. I'll use 2 on each side on the bottom.

sawed down this far and then I switched sides
just like resawing a board in half
had to switch my big tenon saw
I didn't have enough saw plate under the spine with the carcass saw. I had plenty with my biggest tenon saw.

not too bad
My first one was the lower left and the upper right was the last one.  I gauge these cuts by the spot where I switch and saw from the opposite side. I haven't eliminated it but it is getting smaller. Still not getting the saw cuts to line up when I switch to saw from the other side.

it's tight as drum now
This cabinet is going by the stove and this side will be mostly hidden. I put blocks in all four corners and I don't understand why they didn't. Moot point as this is ready to go in tomorrow.

Harbor Freight goodies
The wire wheels will used on the face vise clean up. The magnet is for a gizmo I'll make for work and the green set has a #8 torx driver. This was the only #8 torx driver that HF had, as a single or in a set.

closet rod holders
The metal one matches the color of the knobs that my wife bought for the kitchen cabinets. I bought the wooden one because it's wood. I'll toss that one in the junk drawer. It doesn't offer as much support as the metal one and I don't think it will survive being used as a paper towel holder.

no longer made
This is a multi purpose tool made by Stanley that they stopped making in the late 70's. I use it mostly to find the center of round things.

screwed the magnet to it
I intend to use this to pick up the staples that litter the deck around desk at work. The vacuum doesn't get even half of them and I'm hoping that I can get them all with this.

3 hours work
Didn't think to snap a pic of the before. I ripped out 4 cabinets, a dishwasher, and the counter top.

the used to be kitchen
what I saved
4 leg levelers, 2 big springs, and some nylon cord with do-hickeys on both ends. I only saved 3 cabinets sides as the others didn't survive the hammer love taps.

sneaky U clip
Got the screws removed and I couldn't separate the halves. I had to use a hook to pull out the U clip holding the bottom back together.

still not coming apart
missed a screw
trigger depressed
The LED is lit along with the 3 lights for the battery charge level, motor won't turn still.

motor is spinning away now
The trigger works and I can get the motor to turn that only leaves one thing as being OTL.

miniature electronic controller board
The cheapest price I could find for this was $48 plus $15.99 S/H.  I can buy a bare bones drill for $81. The cost of the repair exceeds 1/3 of the cost for a new one. That is my line in the sand for fixing something. I will fix if the cost is around a 1/3 and I will only fix once. The second failure means it gets shitcanned. I"ll toss this one and order the drill tomorrow.

matched the knobs
I put the other matching knob on the vise today. This was going to be it for me in the shop but I kept doing just one more thing.

HF metric and imperial ball drivers and a torx set
I threw these in my electric tool box because I don't have any of these in it.

I didn't think they were this big
Now that I have these I can get the final inside width of the paper towel holder.  Both parts stick up the same amount.

cheap screws
The heads are colored to match the holders. I will have to check the length on these and see if they will poke out on 3/4" thick stock.

maybe tomorrow I'll get the pins chopped out on the tequila box

Harbor Freight 4x36 sanding belt
 The last time I went to HF, they had belts from 36 grit up to 400. Today they only had 36, 80, and 120. 

80 grit belt
I have this clamped down to a 4x36 inch marble threshold I got at Home Depot. It's a great long flat surface to sand the sole of the #3 on. I kept at it with the 80 grit until I got scratches running from the toe to the heel.

might as well
Since I had the 80 grit out and I needed to work on this chisel, I did it. It was nice to have such a long runway to work on this bevel.

another side trip
I have 5 coats of spray lacquer on these 3.  The middle one looks good and the top and bottom one are washed out. They are black but the color didn't pop out with the lacquer like the middle one did. Another check mark in column A for using fresh ebonizing stuff.

got a good scratch pattern
I have been getting less than optimum results with my sharpening. I have an even grind straight across this chisel.

I can't see any reflected light
I've got a burr straight across
I should now be able to go to the stones and get this shiny and sharp now right?

not so fast moose breath
If I look at this with the magnifying glass, I can see a flat on it on one half. One half has a flat and the other doesn't. Up to now, I've been going on the look of the bevel and the burr on the backside. Even with a flat you can get a burr. Something else to check for when sharpening next. I ran into this same thing with the two spokeshave irons. I had the 3 and thought I done but I found flats on them later.

that's a big chip to remove and it wasn't happening today
moved up 120 grit
I sharpened and honed the 3 chisels at the top and they weren't scheduled for the hit parade today. Getting the #3 done was but that isn't going to happen neither.

my 2two #3s'
I ordered 2 low knob studs from Bill Rittner and he made them to fit the height of these knobs. Once I get them I'll be able to put one on the first #3. The second will have to wait until I'm done sanding the sole. I bought a new tote for it too because I can't stand the look of the one that is on it now. I'll save that one and use pieces of it to make the dark markers for a set of winding sticks.

adjuster on the rehabbing #3
Small brass adjuster and a 1/2 of a turn will get the iron poking out.

my first #3
This one has a large adjuster and look at how much the adjuster is out. The iron is barely poking out of the mouth. The iron and chipbreaker must be a good match for this plane. 99% of my planes have their adjusters set in this manner. I do like the large adjusters over the smaller ones. These are much easier to set up or down with one finger. I have to use two on the smaller ones.

I like the long runway sanding with the marble threshold and sanding belts. I am going to look up the cost of getting a few more grits so I can finish up the #3 and the #4s' I have to do too.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was William Moulton Mastron?
answer - he invented the first functional lie detector and created the comic book heroine, Wonder Woman

sharp fixes all.......

Wed, 02/15/2017 - 2:04am
I got a new molder last night in the mail. I almost missed it because it had fallen off the stoop and behind a bush. If I hadn't looked down, it would have spent the night outside. Instead of that happening I got to play with it after dinner.

the thing that needs to be sharp
I tried this out out of the box and the results sucked. After that disappointment, I put in a citric acid bath overnight. This morning before I left for work, I rinsed it off and oiled it. I'm starting to like the citric acid treatment. Evaporust leaves a film on the metal where this one doesn't. They both do a good job cleaning things up but I like the feel of the metal after the citric acid bath.

One other thing I noticed between the two that is tipping my favor in the direction of the citric is the rust blooms. Evaporust doesn't deal very well with them and they are there at the end of the bath. I left one rust bloom on this iron and the citric acid removed it. It's a hard choice to make because I started out with Evaporust and I'm sure I'll continue to use it. But there are a lot of check marks in column A for the citric acid.

it's a 1/2" astragal
I think I am set on astragals. I have a 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4".  The 3/4" is a wee bit too large for woodshop woodworking. It would need a 6x6 leg to make it look in scale. The 3/4" one was the first one I bought so I'll keep it. Maybe I'll make a gigantic toy box for my grandson and I can use it on that.

my first attempt with the new plane last night
The far end is iffy and the near end looks like total crap.

second run
I was paying better attention to where and how I was planing but I could tell the iron was dull. My shavings were short, full of holes, and the planed profile is very rough. And this was with the grain. I tried getting a profile on all four available edges and none were good.

one stop on the plane
The rabbet on the left is the stop for the plane. The rabbet on the right is the registration one. This rides on the edge and the top of the board. This went off the board into La-La land on every edge except for one. On the one edge I was able to keep this where it was supposed to be, I got the molded profile. It looked like crap because the iron was dull. Instead of being smooth it was torn out end to end.

sharp and shiny
I am getting quicker and better at sharpening these molding irons. I think it mostly has to do with the metal the irons are made of. They are very easy to sharpen because you can remove a lot of material without much effort.

ripping off the bad so I can plane some good
not too bad, even and straight end to end
plumb too
This is something I have wanted to do ever since I saw Paul Sellers make a cove molding entirely by hand. BTW, the profile on the left is the one that I made end to end. Another skill I'm picking up and getting better at. I think I'm ready to try to duplicate Paul's cove molding.

squared up the rough sawn edges
it's a small amount of real estate to keep on the edge
I can see how I went OTL (out to lunch) on my first 3 tries. I had to be on my toes keeping this running against the edge.

much joy and rejoicing in Mudville
This was with the grain and it is as clean as a whistle end to end. Sharp does fix a bucket full of problems. The iron was set a frog hair too deep but the shavings still look good albeit a bit thick.

against the grain
This turned out better than I was expecting. As I was planing this, it was tearing out down the whole length. As I planed closer to the end, it started to clean up and by the time I hit the stop, it looked pretty good.

outside groove wall tore out a bit here
That big hole to the left of my finger is the remnants of a mortise I chopped. Most of the tearing happened on this end and decreased as I planed to the opposite end.

a handful of shavings to burnish the profile

got another surprise
The shavings smoothed out the profile more than I thought they would. I can feel a big difference between the unburnished one and the burnished one. It didn't get rid of the few tear out pockets but it did feather them out some.

profile #4
This one was against the grain also but I got a better looking profile on this one. I took it slower and tried to take a shallower cut. I'm sure that if I hadn't been in such a hurry to try this out, and if I had set the iron a bit shallower, the results against the grain would have been better.

this is an interesting profile
This I've seen on pine T&G boards at the big box stores. On thicker stock this might work better yielding a thicker tongue. This board is 9/16" thick.

screws came in
McMaster-Carr didn't have these which surprised me. They had the right size and length, but they weren't threaded up to the head. I got these on Amazon Prime from the Hillman group. Brass flat head, all threaded, 10-24 screws. A box of 15 for $12.84 which is a pretty good price for a big brass screw.

clever design
Put some thread lock in the brass 'tube' on the disc and that will keep that secure. I have had some of these spin on me and now I know how they are put together. The biggest problem I've had with these is the part that screws into the threaded insert doesn't stay inserted and the threads are mangled up. Brass and steel together equals steel wins every time.

the part sticking out screws into the threaded insert
I wonder if the brass disc is an off the shelf item?

after dinner work
I found and glued up two boards that were 3 1/2" wide for the shelf. The shelf will be  6 1/2" wide.

also found a board I can use for the back stretcher
got most of the wood for the towel holder
The first shelf is now the crest rail. I only need one more board for the gallery railing but I'll hold off on that until I get the gallery spindles.

set #1 after 4 rounds
set #1 and the comparison piece
set #2 after 4 rounds
set #2 and the comparison piece
all 3 together
The two sets appear to be me to be about the same. I can't see a difference in them but I can see a difference in both sets against the comparison piece. It has been roughly two months since I last used this ebonizing stuff. The tannic acid seems to be just as effective now as then. The apple cider vinegar iron sulfate seemed also to be equally effective. The white vinegar iron sulfate didn't make it. My conclusion on this is to mix up what I need to do the job at hand. Once that is done and if there nothing on the horizon, discard it. I wouldn't keep it more than a week or two at the most. I also like the apple cider vinegar iron sulfate better than the white vinegar. It appears to be stronger and longer lasting then the white stuff. And it is better smelling. I'll be making up a new, fresh solution for each job.

I am going to put a few coats of lacquer on the biggest piece of wood in both sets. I want to see what the black looks like with some finish on it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who has won the most Grammy awards?
answer - conductor Georg Solti with 31

towel holder and more........

Mon, 02/13/2017 - 11:49pm
There was an "Aha, gotcha" with the supposed snow storm for Monday. The day was cold, windy, but sunny and snow free. All day long. Not a hint of precipitation and there isn't any forecasted for the rest of the week. I'm keeping my fingers crossed on this being the last of the white stuff this winter.

batting lead off tonight
The entire back right side was blown out. It is way too late to put a claim in for the damage, so I'll have to fix it. The cabinets are all wood except for the panels in the doors being MDF. The plywood used looks ok but feels as light as tissue paper. The fronts are solid wood but I don't know what kind.

this is it
There was no glue in the dado at all on the busted out side. The left side has this blob of silicone at the top and running down to the bottom. That is part one of how the cabinets are held together. The second part is 1/4" crown staples. That's it. I am not impressed with these at all. On wednesday I start the demo of the bottom cabinets so this has to be ready to go in thursday.

chopping the tails
I have gone from having a double row of 15 holes for the bench hooks down to 3. Of the 3, I only use one. And I only use that one to chop pins and tails. I'm still debating whether or not to put any holes for bench hooks in the new bench.

pins sawn
The chisels need to be touched up and I don't feel like stopping to do that. I will have to do that tomorrow before I chop out the pins.

towel rack is batting cleanup
I got a roll of paper towels to check the clearance on the pattern. I don't want to have this completed and have a hiccup putting paper towels in or out.

ready to cut out
I have the two halves screwed together in the waste areas. I cut this out on the bandsaw being careful to arrange the cutting so that the screws held the two halves together for the longest time possible.

cut out and ready for shaping
most of the rough shaping is done
The big 'C' shaped curve will done with the oscillating spindle sander. I tried using a spokeshave on it but I only had success with the back wall. The two curves are too tight for the spokeshave.

slight difference
Rather then use up a piece of the same board for ears, I used a piece of 1x2 poplar that I had in the wood stash. It wasn't as thick as the other board and I planed it flush because I didn't want this to catch on the OSS table.

dead nuts flush
This is going to be painted and if this is less than dead nuts flush, it will show through the paint. I got a good glue joint with no gaps on both sides. I can not detect any proud along the length with my finger tips.

I don't like this point
I do like the look of this but it is a very fragile part. This will get busted and destroyed the first time something brushes against it.

sides are done
I made the 'flat' on the point as small as I could. It is something that you can't really see head on but you can from the sides. All the shaping is done on this and I can't do much more until I get the closet rod set. I need that to get the final width of this.

the shelf
I want the shelf in a stopped dado with it being 3/4" from the front. This shelf is shy of that by a couple of inches. I have more 1/2" stock that I can use to glue to this to make up the width but I'm thinking on that.

something I'm adding
There isn't any stretcher on the back of the towel holder in the pic. I think it is something that is needed to keep the bottom of the holder from spreading out or closing in. It isn't going to be this big, a stretcher 1 1/2" wide will suffice here.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the maximum allowed weight for a PBA bowling ball?
answer - 16 pounds

major dumping of the white stuff......

Mon, 02/13/2017 - 1:36am
It wasn't supposed to snow today but that depended upon which forecaster you listened to. All said rain for today into tomorrow and a few said rain changing to snow and back to rain and maybe back to snow. Who cares beside kids hoping that school will be called off. I'm thrilled to pieces that I will get to shovel this crap again so soon.

round 3
It is getting black but not the black I recall back in december.  The top piece was done then it is more black then these. One more round to go.

second set
The pic isn't the best for rendering the colors of this but they look very close to the first set.

$6 Wally World find
This is big enough I think to soak the vise parts in. It' 27" long and 6" deep. I haven't tried it yet but I hope I can fit the tommy bar and vise rails in it.

back up to the Wally World find
This was going to be used as plan #1.  I was going to build a cheap plywood box, line it with this plastic bag, and fill it with water and citric acid. This won't have the length and height restrictions of the plastic box.

stock for the towel roll holder
needs some ears

Since this is going to be painted the same color as the spice rack, I'm gluing on some ears. The top and bottom need to be 7" wide with the center portion being about 3-4" wide. If this was to be left natural I would have used (bought) stock wide enough to start with.

last night doodling
I got most of the dimensions figured out and all that is left is the rod support for the towels. The pic my wife gave me has two holes in it and I prefer not to have any holes on this one. I thought of and discarded a drop down slotted holder. I think the leading contender right now is a closet rod holder set.

patterns done
It wasn't that easy making these because the pic is a head on shot. A side view would have been a lot better to draw a pattern off of. I have the two sides glued up and cooking by the furnace so it'll be next week before I can start this.

started the tequila box
I can get the box out of this one board. I'll have use another board for the lid. I have 2 more 1/2" thick boards like this I can use. I also have a 3/4" thick board that I can use if I can't get a one piece lid out of the 1/2" stock.

sawing out the stock
After I had sawn out all the parts I realized that I could have done it differently. I could have done it so that the grain ran continuously around the box.

I'm getting better at sawing the parts out closer to length. That makes it quicker and easier to square them up to length.

checking the size
I want this to be a glove fit if I can get it. I don't want the bottle to rattle around in the box and possibly break. I am pretty sure I got the length but the width is a bit iffy. If it ends up too tight and won't fit, I'll have a another box for the shop. I can then use that width to make the second box of the correct width.

caught a mistake
I did a through dovetail layout on both ends. This end needs a layout for the lid. I planed off all my layout lines and laid it out again for the lid.

stopped here
I got the tails sawn out and decided to call it a day here. I was tired and yawning and I didn't want to make another mistake.

working on the drill
I got the first screw out without any problems. The drill still won't turn and I still have the led light coming on with the trigger depressed. I'm pretty sure this is a brushless motor design so if I don't see anything obvious - something burnt or broken - I'll buy a new one.

dead in the water
My torx bit can't reach this screw. The good news is that with a magnifying glass I was able to find out that this is a T8 bit. The smallest driver hand held size I have is a T10. I'll have to look on Amazon to see what a small set of torx drivers cost.

it's been 12 hours
I put this coke in here yesterday to see how cold it would get.

it feels colder
This can is colder than the cans in my refrigerator in the kitchen. That is pretty good for such a little cooler. But I still intend to only keep OBG or hide glue in here.

My wife just told me that there is another storm coming up from the south and it is going to snow all day tomorrow. It just stopped snowing but it's going to start again around dawn and go until about 1300. I don't know where I'll be shoveling that accumulation to. I already have Mt Everest stretching from the end of my driveway to the backdoor..

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the highest scoring NBA game?
answer - the 1983 game between the Denver Nuggets and the Detroit Pistons. The Pistons won it 186-184

more snow again.........

Sun, 02/12/2017 - 2:42am
On thursday we got a 10" carpet of snow that took me almost 3 hours to shovel. That was certainly what was in the top ten things I wanted to be doing at 1800. This morning when I left for work, I had about 2 inches more of the white stuff. After I got home I had the pleasure of more shoveling. I especially enjoyed shoveling the all the snow the guy across the street (with a plow) pushed from his driveway to either side of my driveway.

My favorite shovel broke on me while I was doing this and I had to switch and use a straight handle one. For the first time in my life, my back aches. There is a dull pain right above my ass cheeks that won't go away. Sit, stand, lie down, hop on one foot, nothing seems to alleviate it. And since I took an Alleve this morning, I can't take any motrin or ibuprofen until after 1900. Oh well stercus accidit.

I forgot them
I went down and looked at these at 1900 last night and let them stay in the citric acid for another hour. Or so I thought because I fell asleep and they stayed in the citric bath for almost twelve hours.

opposite side
My biggest fear with this went unfounded. I was concerned that the acid would etch this and leave a sandpaper texture on the metal. It didn't and it feels smooth all over. Before I left for work I rinsed this off and dried them. I couldn't use the hair dryer because my wife was still asleep. I rubbed a coat of oil on both of them and went off to work.

flattening the back
Got highs and lows to deal with and the coarse diamond stone is going too slow so I switched to 80 sandpaper.

helped some
This 80 grit doesn't feel like 80 grit anymore but it was cutting better the the diamond stone.

much better looking
Got it flat with 100 grit sandpaper on my granite block.

finished it on the coarse diamond stone
I can see a flat
Used the same 100 grit paper to establish the bevel on the iron. I can feel a burr on a portion of it but not the whole width. I kept at it until I felt a burr across the entire width.

Stanley rabbet plane iron
This is the iron from a Stanley rabbet plane I once had. It didn't survive the bounce test with Mr Concrete floor but I saved the iron. Today I used it to scrape the glue residue left after removing the 80 sandpaper that was on here. The 100 grit sandpaper wasn't cutting much anymore and I dropped back to 80 grit to finish the iron.

it wasn't square
I always check for square from the right side of the iron. I never bother to check it from the left. I squared this by holding the iron 90° to the paper and dragging the iron until it was square.

got my full width burr - now I can go back to the diamond stones
this is something I should have a long time ago
working the chipbreaker
I like to polish/hone the leading edge of my chipbreakers. It helps the shavings to move over this part easily if the chipbreaker is smooth.

next to last thing to do on the chipbreaker
The front bottom edge needs some work. This has to lay flat on the entire width of the iron to keep shavings from getting between the two.

how I do it
I got this tip from Richard Maguire and it works flawlessly. It's a no brainer which is especially helpful for me.  I put the chipbreaker on the stone and let it hang down on the top edge of the wood. The slight angle is enough to put a slight angle on the bottom back of the chipbreaker that helps it to stay flat and tight to the iron.

repeating it for the 4 1/2 plane
This has what appears to be a nice flat across it but shavings were getting jammed up underneath it. A couple of strokes should point out any hiccups.

5 strokes and it's not even
I took some off on both ends but nothing in the middle. And the middle was were the shavings were getting between the chipbreaker and the iron. It took me about 5 minutes to get a continuous freshly ground look side to side.

pitted on this side (4 1/2 chipbreaker)
This chipbreaker may not end up with a shiny and smooth leading edge. This side has a deep series of pits and the other side is slightly hollowed. It also is a bit rough but not pitted.

I stropped both of the chipbreakers
the new old chipbreaker I just got
This one isn't pitted or rough but shiny. Considering it's age, I find this remarkable.

mind fart
For whatever reason, I thought the 4 1/2 iron was the same as the #8 iron. It isn't so sports fans, the 4 1/2 is the same size as the #7 iron.

fits the #8
Now I have a backup iron and chipbreaker for the #8 instead of the 4 1/2.

road testing the newly fixed 4 1/2 chip breaker
working as it should now
The very front of the chipbreaker is down tight to the iron and the back edge of it isn't. This combined with the leading edge honed and stropped, means the shavings got no where to go but to slide up and over it. I am keeping this chipbreaker in the 4 1/2 and the one I took out with the chip will be the backup.

tomorrows work (maybe)
The few times I used this, I noticed that it grabbed and dragged some. The sole on it needs to be run through the gauntlet of sandpaper grits to smooth/shine it up. I can feel a resistance when I lightly run my fingers along the sole especially toward the heel. I'll do my #4s' that need their soles touched up to remove the paint on them.

it came friday night about 1930
It was a surprise to get this. I was resigned to this coming next next week sometime. The UPS driver said it was really heavy and what was it? A wagon vise I said back and I got a black stare. The UPS driver obviously doesn't woodwork on his off time.

rail connector hardware
look at the size of this
This will outshine and outperform the rail hardware I have on my two benches now.

big boy 1/2" bolt
wagon vise connector hardware
A scaled down version of the rail connectors.

where they will go
One will go in the outside rail of the dog assembly and the bolt will go from the end cap into this. There will be a second one on the other side of the vise slot in the bench top.  This makes installing the wagon a lot easier using these two connectors.

sliding dog traveler plate
it is a full 1/4" thick
This is solid and very substantial. The big hole is where the dog goes.

the nut block
The screw goes through this and moves the dog block in and out.

knob for the hand wheel
I may not put this on the hand wheel. If I don't I'll save a couple of inches that won't be sticking out.

rough cast wheel
The shiny hand wheel (which was incredibly hard to resist) is about $70 more than this model. I went back and forth and in the end I picked this one. It will be on the right hand side of the bench and hard to see. This doesn't have any effect on it's functionality and I'm sure I'll grow to love it.

got a piece of clubber to use and evaluate
wow solid, heavy, substantial, wow again
I have been impressed to no end with this vise.

silky smooth traveling end to end
this is over the top
The machining on this is A-one double triple squared plus.

future look see
I got all the hardware and the next step is to start buying the wood.

this one I can use my Paul Sellers jig with
this one will be done free hand
This is one spokeshave style iron that I haven't seen as a after market replacement. I don't see why not that I couldn't use the one with slots in it's place. I was going to sharpen these two and said nay, nay.

played some more with this
The authorized service center will charge me $55 just to look at it. Then parts and labor is added if they can fix the problem. I can buy a bare bones drill for $81. I did the obvious things with this like put a working battery in it from another drill. I cursed at it, cajoled it, made promises to it that I had no intention of keeping, and finally tapped it (with love) with a hammer. I thought of bringing it upstairs and taking it down to parade rest but nixed that too.

another hiccup to fix yesterday
My wife unboxed the last 3 cabinets that I'll be installing next week. Before I do any of that I'll be fixing this one. The blowout doesn't look like it's going to be that difficult to repair.

this may be a royal headache
This is the back drawer rail support that should be one piece but is now 2. The drawer slides only have 'made in Austria' stamped on them. I couldn't find any numbers or a manufacturers name anywhere. My wife put a claim into the company that made these and hopefully we can either get one or at least the opportunity to buy a replacement. Something I thought of doing and nixed too.

The only thing I got done today was sharpening my new iron and chipbreaker. I had a list of other things to do but I never got past just looking at them. I don't have many days like this where I don't feel like doing anything woodworking related. I shut the lights off at 1330 and went upstairs to vegetate in my chair.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first woman to ride in the Kentucky Derby?
answer - Diane Crump  in 1970

citric acid bath time.......

Sat, 02/11/2017 - 12:12am
I only got one thing that I ordered today. I was supposed to get my Benchcrafted wagon vise today but the UPS site just says that shipments are delayed due to the storm. No updates, no nothing, so I have no idea when I'll get it. I also ordered a couple of things to come Prime from Amazon and their updates have the same storm delay blurb. So I may not get nothing until next week because I doubt they will play catch up and deliver on saturday.

0330 friday morning
Round two of the ebonizing - put on the iron solution before I went to work.

put the same iron solution on set #2 also
12 hours later
I wiped on the tannic acid on set #1 and it got blacker. I'll continue this until I have completed 4 rounds.

set #2
Huge improvement in the color. This is after one round of the apple cider vinegar and tannic acid that I used on set #1.

my first iron sulfate solution
When I first made this it would foam and produce a bazillion bubbles when I shook it. Today I didn't even get one bubble when I shook it.

looks nothing like the first time
It's hard to see in this picture but this is rather thin and watery looking. When I first made it up it had some substance to it. It was not thick but you could tell just by looking that there something more than water. This looks rusty and smells like vinegar but I get no reaction at all with it and tannic acid.

#8 iron and chipbreaker from NH plane parts
This looks pretty good and the iron has got a lot of life left in it. I now have 4 irons that I can use in the 4 1/2 and the #8. I have an extra iron (or 2) for every plane I have except for the LV BU jack and my #6.

chipbreaker side
Other than an accumulation of grunge, there is very little rust on either the iron or the chipbreaker.

chinese take out containers to the rescue
this is interesting
This puts the chipbreaker in the late 1880's or so.

I think this one say Apr 1882
probably isn't necessary
I lightly sanded both the iron and the chipbreaker and again I was surprised by how rust free they were. I wiped them down and then cleaned them both with the simple green. It is going in the citric acid next so this might have been overkill.

going for the gusto
A little less than a quarter of a cup of citric acid in two cups of hot water. I stirred it until I didn't see any more citric acid bits in the water.

I read on a post about this where the author went for the gusto with a lot of citric acid and having the parts sit for a couple of hours. I'm going to try the same thing - lots of citric acid and a short bath time. I'll look at this at 1900. I plan on taking it out regardless because I don't want this to sit in the citric until tomorrow.

this bugs me
I have barely two frog hairs worth of the iron poking out past the sole and over half of the adjuster is being used to get it there.

two chipbreakers
The left chipbreaker is in the plane now. The one on the right I bought to replace the left one.

why I am replacing it
The chipbreaker has a chip missing on this corner of the plane. I haven't run into any problems with it so far but I am going to replace it.

a lot of the iron is peeking out
This is about 3 times what I normally have on the iron projection. The plane has the replacement chipbreaker in it now.

look at the adjuster
I have 3 times as much of the iron showing and less than what the adjuster was at with the first chipbreaker in place.

I have to fix this
I replaced this but chips are going underneath it as I plane. It isn't laying flat across the iron. I'll have to spend some time at the stones fixing it.

adjuster slots are slightly off
The replacement chipbreaker is not only smaller, it's adjuster slot is a bit lower. When I first put this in the plane I had noticed that I didn't have to run the adjuster out so far but didn't put 2 and 2 together.

my LN 51 shooter
I barely have the iron past the front edge of the plane which is where I usually have it. I can take fine shavings with it there.

the adjuster on the LN
It looks like it is ready to fall off and that is because it almost at the top of the threaded stud.

side view of the adjuster
I have adjusted the frog as close as I can to the mouth. You can only move that forward so far because the chipbreaker and the iron on this plane are so thick and there isn't lots of room in the throat. That thickness limits how far forward the frog can be and still have some of the iron sticking out.

It my contention that I shouldn't have this much of the adjuster used up for having so little of the iron protruding. I had sent it back to LN when I first got it and asked about this but I never got a reply or an answer to that question. I was told the plane was fine and that the lever cap was loose. That is the way I received it back too, with the lever cap loose.  My question on that is if the plane was checked out as being fine, why did I get it back with the lever cap loose? Did someone there fix that and then make it loose again to send it back to me?

My 4 1/2 has a similar problem where I think a lot of the adjuster is used up. The rest of the herd doesn't have this issue. It's a bit of a PITA to me or maybe it is just a quirk on these two planes. Either, way I've learned to work with it and a shooter doesn't need a lot of iron sticking out to do it's job.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first female artist to be inducted into the Rock 'n Roll Hall of Fame?
answer - Aretha Franklin

it's a snow day.....

Fri, 02/10/2017 - 12:33am
I went to the grocery store at 0700 this morning and it was raining lightly with the temp at 36° F (2.2°C). I was in a world of my own because I thought it was too warm to snow. By 0900, the white fluffy stuff was falling at a pretty good clip. By 1000 the snow had covered everything in sight. The good news - it stopped around 1600.

I didn't get as much done considering today was a day off for me. I found a new home for the hide glue pot, did the last hurrah on the boxes, had a couple of hiccups that I'll have to deal with later, and I ended the day with another experiment with my ebonizing stuff. I know I could have done more but I'm coming down with a cold and they usually drain me.

I didn't forget
 Making a shelf for this turned out to be an all day affair.

prepping the shelf stock
This side had a big cup and trying to flatten it after taking cold medicine was a fun adventure. It took me about 7-8 trips (traversing and at an angle) before I got it flat.

opposite side had a hump
This side went quicker.

the up side
No check for twist with winding sticks. I checked that the corners weren't rocking and left it at that. I used the #7 plane to check the side to side.

the down side
The area above the last shelf pins will be the shelf for the glue pot. The rest of the board will give up the back rail and center support.

first hiccup
This knob on my tail vise fell off. The slot in the head is chewed up and I couldn't tighten it back down on the rod. I had a spare that I put on and I'll order up some 2 1/2" long 10-24 screws so I can fix this one.

first time doing a complete round over with just a chisel
It is a little bumpy but acceptable. I can sandpaper it smooth.

both done
I watched Paul Sellers take a square board and make it round using just a saw and a chisel. I tried it on two corners and it worked for me. It isn't as smooth looking as his but I did get the round look on both corners.

dado for the center support
I sawed this out after making a knife wall. I chiseled out most of the waste and got it to depth with a router.

too tight - planed it to fit
split it out
After I split out most of the waste I used the chisel to get it down to the line. This is the first center support and I realized it was too small. Made a second larger center support the same way.

dado depth
I made the depth a frog hair below the bottom of the chamfer.

why I made the depth so deep
no gaps on this side
same on this side
I made a boo boo on a past shelf I made where I didn't take this into account. I ended up with a gap and this time I didn't. I wasn't 100% sure that I was going to hide this but I got lucky.

shelf and the rail, need a center support
this is where I realized the first one was way too small
it's new home
This is the right side of my saw till. There is a power outlet right below it that I can plug into.

some of the crap that was on the saw till
I've been using this side of the saw till as a quasi cork board. Once I have the shelf in place, I'll see about actually making a cork board for the area left over. Now I've got to find a hole for this pile of crap.

new center support blow out
I was cleaning up the sawn edge with a chisel and big chunk of wood popped off. I didn't even get a chance to say 'aw shit'.

that space shouldn't be there
It should be a continuous line from the bottom of the cove right on to the bottom.  I doesn't look too bad and I think I rescued it. I didn't want to make another one.

spokeshaving a chamfer
I thought I would do good on this area but I didn't

I thought I would have problems on the curves but didn't
fixed the bad chamfering by making it a round over
hiccup #2
I tried both of these and got so-so results. The one that did the chamfering did so beautifully. I looked at all three irons and saw the problem right away. These two irons had flats on them but not across the entire iron. No wonder I was getting shavings off one side and toast on the other. I put these with the other irons that need to be done.

thought about it and rounded over box #2
out of sequence pic and the new center support
This loaded this way somehow. I glued this up and set it aside to cook for an hour or so. Then I screwed it together.

stock for the ebonizing experiment
Both sets of wood came from the same stock. I have poplar, cherry, walnut, and ash.

last piece I did as a comparison
The second set of ebonizing stuff  with apple cider vinegar is on the left and the first batch I made with white vinegar is on the right. I'll start the first test with the iron and second test with tannic acid. I'm anxious to see if this stuff is still effective at ebonizing.

apple cider iron solution for set #1
The apple cider still had the steel wool pad in it. There was no mistaking that it had apple cider vinegar in it.

tannic acid on set #2
while the experiments dry
it's not in the way
I got this on the far side so I won't brush against it as I walk back and forth past the saw till.

I think this is going to work well
The white thing is a rheostat because the warmer heats the hide glue up close to 170°F. I can dial in the right temp with this.

hiccup #3
My drill died. The motor won't turn no matter what I do. The LED light comes on as do the green battery level indicators when I depress the switch but the motor doesn't turn.

my smallest torx driver is too big
Maybe this is an omen to go all hand tool only. I set this aside to deal with later.

found my citric acid
I bought a chipbreaker and iron for a #8 and I was supposed to get it today. I think the snowstorm slowed everyone down and I got no deliveries. When I do get it, I'll use that as my test with the citric acid. I want to see if it eats or etches the metal at all.

set #1 is dry and ready for the tannic acid

iron applied to set #2
This iron stuff still smells like vinegar but it looks like colored water. This doesn't have the same consistency that it had when I first made it. It did absolutely nothing with the wood. This is after about 5 minutes.

set #1 after 5 minutes
put set #1 apple cider iron on set#2
5 minutes later
It turning a little black but not as much as set #1. I'm conceding that set #2 iron solution is toast. It appears that leaving the steel wool in the solution pays off with a longer shelf life.

boxes are officially done
Branded, signed, and sealed with Shellac.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was the first US Navy ship named in honor of a black person?
answer - the USS Harmon DE678

box #1 & #2 are done........

Thu, 02/09/2017 - 2:16am
Got the replacement lid for #2 done but it took me past my 1700  weekday quitting time. I went over because I was so close to finishing that I didn't want to wait another day. There is also a big snow dump coming tomorrow. The forecast as of tonight, is 8- 12 inches with some out lying areas getting 12-20 inches. A few winters back we went through something similar. No snow Nov thru Jan and then a double container boatload for Feb and March.

I took tomorrow off from work and it amuses the people I work with to no end. I do not like driving home when it is snowing, period. I do not think it is worth risking it and I leave everytime the white stuff starts falling during working hours. It is supposed to start around 0900 and fall until midnight. Tomorrow I'll be safe and warm puttering in my shop.

Wally World two day shipping
It seems Walmart wants to compete with Amazon because it's offering two day shipping on a lot of products on line. This was one of them and you can get it shipped to your house or pick it up at your local Wally World. Did I mention it is free two day shipping too?

a tiny cooler
My boss got one of these for xmas from his wife and I had to have one. My local Wally World didn't have any on the shelves so I ordered it online. I ordered it monday and I got it today.

AC cord for the house  DC cord for the car
hot and cold
I don't ever anticipate using the hot setting. I can't even think of a use for it.

too big for this shelf
I could put this in the boneyard where I have tons of room for this. But I want it in the shop and close by the bench.

another landing point
This outlet is not switched off the lights - it always live. I have one source of power here and another over by the clock.

put a piece of 1/4" plywood underneath it
I got support for the front feet but it is a mickey mouse setup waiting to fail. I also don't have any room at the rear for the cooler to exhaust air. On to landing strip #2.

new home
I had to move a bunch of stuff that had residence here but I can find other homes for that.  It fits on the shelf and the rear is unobstructed. Both the air inlet and exhaust fan have nothing blocking them. And I can freely open and close the door. This is a good spot for now until I rearrange the shop and find another one.

want I bought it for
This little cooler cost $45.58 and a college dorm refrigerator can be had now for around $75. I have been putting off getting one of those because I didn't want such a big refrigerator in the shop. I don't like having drinks or food in the shop so I didn't need it for that. I wanted it to store my OBG in because keeping it cool inbetween uses extends it's shelf life. Putting 3 or 4 bottles in dorm size refrigerator is like hunting ducks with a bazooka.

this one I couldn't find another home for
I got an idea for this one and if I remember it I'll do it tomorrow. There is room for the pot in the cooler too.

pic with the lights out
I wanted to double check that this outlet wasn't switched with the shop lights. The green light is on and the exhaust fan it blowing so I'm good to go here.

plugs sawn off and planed flush
I can pick them out but they aren't easy to see. I didn't want to use walnut on these because there was only two. On box #1, I had 6 holes to plug and those were more obvious.

new lid a strong 1/8" over
can you rip with a carcass saw?
Yes you can. This was on the bench so I used it.

checking my rabbets
Now that I'm close to the pencil line I am making more frequent checks on the fit.  I labeled the back of the lid so I planed and fitted the left and right rabbets to the left and right grooves in the box. I have messed this up in the past and ended up with rabbets that were too thin for the grooves.

true to form
Even with the 10 1/2 I still plane a hump and dip down on the ends. I didn't go below the layout but If I did the size of the rabbet isn't set in stone.

new lid on the right is a strong 32nd thicker than the original lid on the left
here you can see how much the two lids are off
squaring the rabbet
The 10 1/2 squared the rabbet and the dental pick kept the throat clean.

better rabbets with the 10 1/2
I would have to be on top of my game to get a rabbet like this with the LV rabbet plane.

repeating it for the other side
too snug
I took one shallow pass on each edge and checked the fit. It was still a bit tight so I did one more round. I made sure that I took the same shaving size off both edges.

slides in/out and the back is square to the end
saddle square
This is where this little gizmo shines. I couldn't use a square to accurately transfer this line around from the bottom to the top but not a problem using this.

still a bit proud
I planed the chamfer on the end first and then planed a flat flush with the front.

chamfer and flat done at 1700
another use for the dental pick
Stuck it in a nail hole and used it to slide the lid out.

astragals planed
thumb hook is done
Box #2 is 99.99% done. I changed my mind on rounding the ends of this box but I may do it tomorrow. It's now 1715 and past my quitting time and dinner time.

box #1 & #2 glamour shot

the last box glamour shots
You can not tell by looking at these boxes that the parts weren't all 6 square perfect. You can make good stuff with just one true face and one true reference edge.Tomorrow I'll start the tequila box and maybe I'll be able  to whack that out .

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a dead mans hand?
answer - a pair of black aces and black eights

almost had a lid......

Wed, 02/08/2017 - 12:19am
I've heard it said that almost only applies to hand grenades and horseshoes. It sure doesn't apply to making lids. Close puts you in left field and with a small one, tiny errors will give you burnt toast. Tonight I got oh so close but no brass ring.

crosscut was first
I lost a couple of inches but I couldn't avoid it. I didn't want that hole in the lid and it was on the wide side of the board so it had to go.

ripping it out a 1/8" over
I also made it a 1/4" over in length too.

1/8' over
It will be a frog hair or two less after I plane the sawn edge smooth.

rabbet laid out
Trying to erase pencil marks from end grain is near impossible to do. This is one of the reasons why I made the lid a 1/4" longer than needed. A sharp plane will erase pencil marks without any problems.

10 1/2 to plane the rabbets
I have only used this plane a few times but I am really liking it more than my Lee Valley rabbet plane. I think it being a 'plane' like my other bench planes has lent a lot of familiarity with it. I enjoy using this and I don't have to deal that damn depth stop on the LV plane.

it's tapered
 I noticed that I run inboard as I go down the board. There is barely a hint of pencil at the far end. Not a deal killer because I can always plane down to the line and a little bit past it if need be.

how I start it
I went slowly and carefully this time. I tried to stay off of the line and parallel to it and I did pretty good on that. It took me about 3 runs down the board before I had a wall I could run the plane against. I still ran slightly inboard at the far end but not as much as I did on the first one.

got the tongue to fit on both sides

the rabbet is off square a bit
the versatile 10 1/2
I planed the rabbet with it, planed the shoulder square, and finally used it to get the lid width to fit between the grooves. Can't do all that with the LV rabbet plane.

a little snug and it slides in and out
Houston, we have a problem
The lid is cocked to the right. The back edge is rough sawn but it is almost square and it shows a tapered gap.

I can cock it just as bad to the left
This tells me either the lid is too thin in the width or the box is bowed on the sides. And the sides don't look bowed.

the box is square and not tapered or bowed
the lid is parallel
what is the problem?
I knew it was square - this confirms it
confirmed this end is dead nuts square
Everything points to the lid being too narrow for the opening. I planed it for snug fit at the opening and once it is in the box it gets loose as a goose.

the problem
The shims I glued in the gap extended into the groove a little ways on both sides. The lid does fit snugly between these two points.

a strong 16th over
I trimmed the shims back to the wall of the groove and checked the fit of lid. This is why the lid is cocking in the box. That is way too much clearance and especially so on a short length lid.

splitting some scrap
I only have two holes to plug on this box and I'm using the same stock as the box. I'll make another lid again tomorrow. I'll finish up tonight by doing these two plugs.

splitting it again
I sawed off this piece and from this second split I'll get the two pieces I need to plug the holes.

did all the trimming and fitting with this chisel
I took small bites and checked the fit after each swipe. I kept at it until I got a fit that filled the whole hole.

ready to glue in place
tap tap gently
I have lost 60% of my hearing but I can hear the slight difference in the pitch when this bottoms out. I can also feel it and it is very important not to do just one more tap. This wood is dry, thin, and would split out in a heartbeat. (my hearing is still normal for low sounds like hammer blows. I've lost my hearing mostly in the range that speech is in)

one last check point
I made sure that the plug didn't come through all the way into the groove past the back. That would keep the lid from closing against the back.

the tequila box
The line in the middle is the outline of the bottle up from the bottom edge. The 1x6 stock is 5 1/2 wide and the bottle is 3 1/2 wide at it's widest point. I want to ensure that I can get the lid and bottom grooves in and still have room for the bottle.

about 4 1/2"
I eyeballed the top and bottom grooves and it looks like I will have enough room for the bottle. I don't want to glue up stock for this. If I had too, I would go get some wider stock at Lowes.

my ebonizing liquids
The left and middle ones will be tried again. The one on right is iron acetate and that doesn't turn wood black. I have been thinking of trying this out as it's been over a month since I last used it and I'll be able to gauge it's effectiveness after sitting for a while.

the last thing I ebonized
I don't have a lot of wood species to try out. I have cherry, walnut and red oak I'll be trying. My plate is already kind of full but I think I can squeeze this in. Updates and pics to follow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was the first car to have a horn ring on the steering wheel?
answer - the 1936 Cord 810/812

I missed it.....

Tue, 02/07/2017 - 12:35am
Super Bowl LI was a record setter and I slept right through it. I tried to stay awake but the last thing I remember seeing was less than two minutes to go in the first quarter. My team won in spite of me not seeing it and Tom Terrific Brady went nutso on Atlanta in the second half.  He had a lot of help from the rest of the team but he was the general directing the battle. I couldn't watch the highlights at work so I'll be doing that before I hit the rack tonight.

Next year, regardless of who is playing, I'll take the following monday off to watch it.

I had to make a couple of pit stops on the way home tonight. I was in and out real quick and I didn't lose too much time. I had to stop at Shaws to get milk and the liquor store to get a bottle of tequila. That is for a friend of mine and it's supposedly in the top 3 tequilas in the world. I hope that he likes it because I don't know the difference between it or a glass of water.

came in the mail today
Can you guess what they are?

the give away
a pair of chopsticks
Ken Hatch offered to make a pair and I accepted. I was not expecting two sets of them nor to have a fancy pouch for each of them. The maple ones on the left will be my saturday chinese take out eating sticks. The padauk ones on the right will be for looking at only (for now). My wife doesn't eat chinese and I'm sure she would frown on trying eat anything with chopsticks. Maybe when the girls come to visit one of them can use these. Thanx so much for the gift Ken

the tequila
I almost had an involuntary bowel movement when I saw the price of this.  But friends are worth it I think. Of course I'll have to make a box to put this in to give it to him.

too big for the one I just made (box #1)
A quick visual check of box #2 and I saw that one is too small. This sounds a bit like the Goldilocks story. I'll be making a box that will be just right.

my newest molder
Josh wasn't woofing when he said this was a better plane. It was made by Wallace of Montreal and I'm wondering how it got out of Canada without Bob Demers snagging it first. This will mold 1/2" stock and molders in this size are very hard to come by.

one of my absolute favorite profiles
Josh says that it is a fenced 1/2" casing plane. I call it a round over with a shoulder.

of course I had to try it out
This is a piece of 1/2" poplar that will be the test drive board.

wow and wow again
Silky smooth planing action and look at those ribbon like shavings. This type of plane doesn't have a stop or at least it didn't stop for me. Long after I got the profile, I was still taking full length shavings with no feedback telling me I was close to stopping.

This profile is clean and smooth from end to end. This would look great on the edge of a bookshelf or a box lid.

bigger siblings
These profiles are similar to the 1/2" one. Both of these are for 3/4" thick stock and neither one makes a shoulder.

box has set up
used this to hog most of the waste off
used the small block plane to flush it
errant chisel work
I was following a grain line when I cleaned this up with a chisel. By the time I realized that it was too late. I'll be gluing a shim in here.

front half pin gap
I would not be gluing a shim in here if I had marked the bottom edge as my reference. I saved the pieces that I cut for adding the filler to box #1 and I'll use one of them here..

zona saw kerf
The thinnest piece I have is too thick for the zona saw kerf
gents saw
This kerf and my carcass saw kerf were both too thin for the shim. I used my violin plane to shave the shim until it fit.

fits now
opposite side is iffy looking
This side closed up some but not completely. I opened it with my carcass saw and glued a shim in there too.

pretty good
I eyeballed this for square and chopped it with a chisel. I checked it and I think it's good enough to use as is.

1x6 by 1/2" pine
I'll use this for making the box for the tequila. This is something that I'll have to whack out before my 'honey-do' project.

two choices for the lid
Both are glued up to make them wider and I don't like using glued up stock for lids. Of the two, I like the right better because it has a lighter color.

sometimes you get lucky
The glue line is almost a 1/4" past the groove. I should be able to saw this on the waste side of the glue line and plane down to it. It looks like this box will have a one piece board for a lid after all.

the honey-do
This is what she wants me to reproduce. It will become a paper towel holder. I have the cardboard backs from two desk calendars to use to make some patterns. I need one for the sides and one for the crest rail. I think I have some poplar I can use to make this. I would like to use cherry but my wife wants it painted the same color as the spice rack. And I'm not painting cherry for any amount of money.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the difference between a twit and a twerp?
answer - none, they are both a silly or foolish person

superbowl LI.....

Mon, 02/06/2017 - 12:38am
I tried to take a nap but that just wasn't happening. I quit the shop right after lunch and I was tired but the peepers wouldn't fail shut. But I did get some of things done I wanted to do yesterday. News and an update on whether I watched the whole game on tomorrows' post.

almost done
I screwed the holder on last night after dinner. I am on the fence with painting it or leaving it as it is. It is a shop project and I might paint when I do the next honey-do project. Which I got last night along with the orders to make as exactly as it is in the picture.

cutting down the 8-32 screw
These pliers will cut 10-32 and 8-32 screws and will do 2 others too. I've never used them so I don't remember what they are. I mostly use 8 and 10-32 screws for my projects.

for both screws
The loctite should keep both screws from moving or backing out. I don't want to have to continually check these to make sure they are in place.

now it's done - the loctite will set up in 24hrs
the right side keeper
I already have thought of one improvement and one I should have done it this way. I need to put a cover over this. I noticed that when I cleaned my stones I dribbled water on the roll. A hinged cover of some kind will keep the roll dry. The 'I should have done' this was how I did the roller. I should have drilled two stopped holes for the dowel Then made a dado down from the top down to the hole. Then I could have dropped the dowel in place and pulled it up to change the roll. Maybe on the next one.

pins laid out, sawing them is batting next
These tails and pins are looser the then last two I did. The box is holding itself together so I guess they are snug enough.

front view
For the most part the tails and pins are flush and the box is square. More proof that the stock doesn't need to be 6 square perfect.

made a test groove
I didn't want to add a filler strip to this box. I wanted to get the groove bottom to line up with the top of the front dead one. I made 4 test grooves before I got the 043 set correctly. It is very difficult to look through the plane to see where the outside edge of the iron is.

dead nuts
The top is aligned with the groove but I have a gap on the pin/tail connection. I planed the top of this to remove the labels and got that gap. I'll glue a shim in after the box has been glued.

bottom is 1/8" plywood
The bottom isn't going to be inset into the sides. This box is roughly 6"x9" which to me makes it small so I'll be gluing the plywood to the bottom of the box. This is sawn over sized, and after the glue has cooked, I'll flush it to the box with a block plane.

flattening the back of the torus bead plane
flats done, the cove is next
my molding plane sharpening box goodies
I have several dowels of varying diameters that I wrap different grits of sandpaper around to sharpen the irons with.

started with 220 and ended with 1200
molding iron strops
I cut up an old leather belt and made these strops. I glued the leather on with hide glue and so far, so good.

It's sharp and shiny. This jig works great for sharpening and honing molding plane irons. It holds the iron securely and allows me to use both my hands to work on the iron.

This doesn't look like a torus bead. I have found that I can't always do a repeat molding. Molding planes can be quirky and they each have their own personalities to contend with. I think I moved my registration notch and this is what happens. Just tilting the plane a couple of degrees, either up or down, can change the profile. It is challenging to use some of complex molders and I would consider this a complex molder.

third try was the charm
In spite of honing the iron I didn't feel any appreciable difference in making this profile. However, it is much cleaner and smoother than the first one I did. I also think the profile is a bit sharper too.

it didn't work
I tried to clean up and get the profile to come out but it didn't work. I have yet to rescue a messed up planing.

torus bead left and astragal on the right
They are similar but there are a couple of differences. The grooves on the astragal are flat and the bottoms are in line with each other. Both of the grooves on the torus bead are slanted with the left one lower than the right one. I think the torus bead plane was used for soffit or frieze board work.

fixing another floppy lateral adjust
I sharpened and honed 4 plane irons today and I have 4 more to go. I had the iron out of this plane and I went ahead and fixed the lateral adjust now that I know how to do it. On three of the planes I have to do some work on the soles. I used them to plane painted boards and the soles needed to refreshed and cleaned up.

can you pig stick end grain?
no you can't
A tap, tap is ok but a whack splits the stock. I've been thinking about this because I have a project upcoming where I'm trying to figure out how to make a connection between an end grain end and a long grain edge.

almost made it
I almost had this but the last hit split it out. I made this by taking small shallow bites and mostly removing waste at an angle. It took a while and I was doing ok until I split it.

1/8 and 3/8 through mortise
I do a lot of this without taking pics or blogging about it. My powered mortiser is another electron muncher that I want to get rid of. A couple of times a week I practice chopping mortises with the pig stickers. I'm getting comfortable and pretty good with the 3/8 size but I still need more practice with the 1/4" and 1/8" ones.

1/4" ragged out mortise
I am getting straighter walls with this size. Two problems I'm still experiencing are mortising to a specific depth and getting a clean top. The top will be hidden so getting that clean isn't really necessary but it's a sore point with me.

sawed out a tenon
No knife wall or scribe lines on this tenon. I sawed out the whole thing using pencil lines. I did all the trimming and fitting with a 1" chisel.

scribe lines match up
this is an improvement
The mortise walls are almost plumb and the tenon is titled slightly. I'm still not ready to mortise and tenon 100% by hand but I am slowly getting there.

I got everything done today that I wanted to do yesterday except for the 4 irons still waiting to be sharpened. I have a 'honey-do' that will be batting next.  I have a picture of it and I'll have to make a pattern before I start on it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What NFL player has played in the most Super Bowls (as of 02/04/2017)?
answer - Mike Lodish with 6 and he has 2 championship rings

shop towel holder......

Sun, 02/05/2017 - 2:12am
This is something that I have wanted to make for quite a while. I first thought of this when I made my sharpening bench but I always put it off. The urge to make it was ramped up again this week and today I decided to make it. Why make excuses as to why I can't do it?  How long can it take take to make something as easy as this? A couple of pieces of wood and a wooden dowel is all that is needed. A one hour job to complete, or so I thought.

my ugly but functional shop towel holder
This holder is above and slightly behind my workbench. It is within arms' reach and still out of the way. This took me about 15 minutes to put together with the premise I would replace it later with a better looking one. It is now about 5 or so years later and I'm still waiting to replace it.

where the new holder is going
The holder will be screwed to the outside of the water bottle tray. I will also be moving that up closer to the top of the bench to make it easier to grab the towels.

the stock for the new holder
This isn't going to be a full blown nutso, take my time build. I just want a functional towel holder and looks are secondary.

the body of the towel holder
The two ends are 4" high and 6/1/2" long. On my existing towel holder I made it to fit the 'blue' shop towels which have a small diameter. Regular paper towels (larger diameter) will fit but it is a tight fit. I shouldn't have that problem with this one. The back board is the same height as the ends and has a length of 13 1/2". The blue shop towels are 11" long and the 2 different brands of paper towels I have are both 11" too. I made the distance inbetween the inside of the end caps 12" - 11" for the roll and 1" for wiggle room.

dovetailed the ends on
I could have used a simple butt joint or a rabbet but I opted for dovetails. These will be stronger and only take a few extra minutes to do. I put the pins on the back board and the tails on the end caps. My reasoning for that was the caps will need to resist the pulling of the towels off of the dowel.

Not too bad considering it's been quite a while since I've done tails and pins this thick (3/4"). I had one tail that I moved the baseline on but I wasn't shooting for gnats' ass tight joints. In spite of just sawing away I still got snug joints. I didn't drive this home because I still have more work to do on the end caps.

eyeballing the hole for the dowel
I positioned the hole for the dowel forward of the center toward the front edge. This way if I put a fat roll of paper towels in this it will still spin freely.

drilling the first hole
Set up a stop so that the two holes will line up with each other. The dowel has a 1 1/4" diameter and the hole I'm drilling is 1 3/8".

double triple checking myself
I took my time here and walked away from it twice and came back. I get confused very easily trying to picture which way this opposite one has to go down on the table to be drilled. It was made easier for me because both the holes go right through. This stop system wouldn't work if the holes weren't being drilled straight through.

rounding over the top edge
I marked a 2" radius on the top front edge and I sawed off as much as I could. Then I made myself feel stupid trying to use a spokeshave to clean it up. This is one tool that still kicks my butt when I try to use it on or near end grain. I got nowhere on the first one but I did make some progress on this one. I used the rasp to fair it out down to the pencil line.

glued and end checked for square
repeated on the other end
The pins and tails were snug so I didn't need clamps, I made the ends square to the back and set it aside to cook. I took a break here and went and got chinese for lunch.

almost 3 hours later
 I told myself that I had to wait for the tails and pins to set some before I played with it again. What really happened was I was checking the inside of my eyelids for light leaks for a couple of hours. Good news to report, there weren't any light leaks.

When I did make it back to the shop, I cleaned up the back of the towel holder. The tails were a few frog hairs proud and I wanted this to lay up flat on the water bottle tray.

keeper for the right side
I thought of drilling a stopped hole but I went for straight through. This small block of wood I beveled the top four edges to make it look not so blocky.  It will stop the dowel on the right hand end cap.

brass screws for the stop
This won't be seen on the right side but if I rearrange the shop it might.

chamfered the back side holes
keeper for the right side
I hack sawed off one of legs to be the keeper for this side. I will be able to swing this out of the way and withdraw the dowel so I can put a new roll of towels on.

need a slot
I need a slot on this end of the keeper to slide over the screw. It only took about 3-4 minutes to open this up with the rat tail file.

almost ready
I put two 8-32, threaded inserts in the end cap because this is pine and it is soft. I don't think wood screws would last here. I epoxied the inserts in so I'll have to wait until tomorrow before I can finish this.

what the slot will fall on
The screw head wasn't that much larger than the slot. It would have worked because the keeper isn't going to move outwards.  I epoxied a washer to increase the diameter at the top so it will be beyond the width of the slot. I'll cut this screw to the correct length tomorrow.

it fits
I had a few more things I wanted to do but those didn't happen. The light leak test ate up a lot of my shop time today. If I keep up the OT on saturdays it will probably continue like this and I may have to repeat the light leak test again.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel before Michelangelo painted it?
answer - a plain blue field with silver stars

workbench update......

Sat, 02/04/2017 - 12:53am

My new workbench isn't going to be a Roubo nor a traditional english joiners bench (Paul Sellers design) or the 12 footer that Richard Maguire did on his workbench build video. Instead I plan on making the same bench I have now and making it look pretty. The bench I have now has endured me beating the snot out of it for over twenty years and it has served me well. Now that I am approaching retirement age and I have the resources, I want a new workbench.

The cost of this bench so far has been shock to my system. It is way, way, too much money for the faint hearted. I bought a Record 53E a few weeks ago that is still waiting for me to clean it up. I have taken it down to parade rest but that is all I've done with it. I bought a pound of citric acid to clean the rust on it and I misplaced it. It sucks to get old and forget what you ate for breakfast at lunchtime.

I pulled the trigger on the Benchcrafted tail vise the other day and I'm still waiting for that to come in. I also added the Benchcrafted rail and tail vise end cap bolts and nuts to the order. I was going to wait on them but I ordered them at the same time. I was going to get the clubber stuff but it is/was out of stock. An email today from Benchcrafted advised ordering the clubber separately so I may do that.

I now have all the vises and hardware needed for the bench. I plan on making my own dogs out of wood so I don't need to buy them. I could reuse the metal ones from my existing bench but I plan on giving that away. I'm pretty sure someone else will get another twenty plus years out of it and be able to pass it on from themselves too.

As it stands now, without having bought one stick of wood, I am out of pocket almost $700 for the two vises. I've been searching the internet for wood and there is no good news. Initially I was hoping to get a slab of maple and put a dog block on the front edge of it. But the prices on slabs are orbiting around Jupiter. I found one -3 1/2" thick, 18" wide before the live edge, and a little over 8 feet long. It was figured hard maple, and it was mine was the low price of $2,200.00. It seems these slabs are in high demand for coffee tables, etc, and because they are  artsy fartsy, I have to pay a premium for them.

Changed lanes on the slab and I'm going with Highlands Hardwoods for everything. The base will be red oak and the top all maple. I'm estimating about $350 for the base and $400 to $500 for the top. With Trump freezing federal hiring, I think my OT is going to last for a while and the positions aren't going to be filled for quite a while.

The workbench plan which is now about as firm as unset jello, has me buying the base and making that first and then buying the top and making that. I'm looking at august or september before I'll be working on the new bench.

handle came
I took a chance on buying this handle. I did it based on a picture of it and a measurement I took on the broken one. I got lucky because it matched up perfectly with the broken one.

I have gotten a few comments on repairing the old handle with heat. Mathias Wandel did a you tube on fixing broken plastic with heat. I had nothing to lose trying the heat thing on my broken handle but I'm not going to do it now. My son-in-law told me that the epoxy and the plastic together when heated may give off toxic fumes. I don't want to chance sniffing anything that might even be remotely harmful so I tossed the broken one in the shitcan.

Putting this on made me feel stupid for a few minutes. At the bottom there is a 'U' shaped channel that slips over a screw on the refrigerator at the bottom of the handle. I didn't look at it closely and I tried to put it on the screw by dropping it straight down onto it. After several tries of that not happening, I looked at it closely. It slips over the screw by coming up straight from the bottom. Two screws at the top and my wife has a happy face on now.

#3 low know in rosewood
I got this from Drozs Olde Tyme Stanley knobs and totes. This knob is drop dead gorgeous. I had heard good things about Drozs stuff but this was something I wasn't expecting. This knob is a work of art and will look fantastic on my #3.

the other side of the knob

big difference in the sizes
I like the smaller dimensions of the Drozs knob. I think it fits the size of the #3 much better than the mushroom knob that is on it now. This one will go on the current #3 and I ordered another one of these knobs for the other #3.

low knobs on both the #3's
Even between the two #3 mushroom knobs there is a difference. Both are larger than the Drozs knob and I think both of these are off #4's.

it doesn't fit
The stud is too long. I can't tighten down the barrel nut and secure the knob. I could cut down the stud or buy a couple more from Bill Rittner and wait. I do have patience for some things and I'll order and wait.

it's about a 1/4" too high
stripped out the slot of this barrel nut
I have a lot of spares so I can replace this.

tried two different barrel nuts
I tried one of the Bill Rittner nuts and a older one and neither worked. The older screwed down a wee bit more but still not enough to secure the knob.

the knob on my 10 1/2
The Drozs knob fits on the 10 1/2 stud and can be secured without spinning etc etc. The 10 1/2 knob is squatter and fatter, but both are the same height.

I rounded the lid entry ends
I like this rounded look more than the mitered one. But either one is a better choice than leaving it squared off.

head on
the opposite side
I think I'll be adding this detail to box #2 and all future boxes I make in this style.

remembered I had these
I bought these two from Highlands Hardware 6-7 years ago? At the time I bought these, I had no idea about eBay or any other source for plane parts. I think I used the barrel nuts and nothing else.

plastic knob and tote
To me these look ugly, feel ugly, and they will probably still be in this box a 100 years from now.

two bags of plane hardware parts
no joy in Mudville
The stud on the right is the from the #3. The stud on the left is the smallest one in either bag. It looks like all the studs are for high knobs only. I do have a complete set of screws etc for one plane plus a few extras. I'll have to wait until Bill sends me a PayPal for new studs and then I should have them by the middle of next week.

I didn't get to sharpen and hone my torus bead plane iron so I'll be doing that tomorrow. I did check the boxing I glued yesterday and that set up fine. I want to try the plane out again after I sharpen the iron to see how it performs then.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is misphonia?
answer - Selective  Sound Sensitivity Syndrome where certain sounds can trigger a panic attack or enrage you

got a new molding plane.......

Fri, 02/03/2017 - 12:16am
Before I got to playing with the new plane, I did the finishing steps on Box #1. Without a finish, it is done. If I decide to put a finish on it, it isn't done. I'm staying in the without a finish camp for now. I have one more molding plane coming too but I'm not sure. I missed getting one and Josh emailed me saying he got another of the same but it's better. I told him to send it to me but I haven't gotten the confirmation email yet.

shaved the glue blocks
This flushing of the glue blocks is something I thought of today off and on. I planned on using a small block plane. The problem with that was trying to just shave the blocks flush and not plane anything off the bottom of the sides. If I came in at an angle and used the corner of the iron that would work. The visibility of where the iron was in relation to the glue block would be difficult to see.

I did the same plan with the chisel I had in mind for the block plane. I used the corner of the chisel in a sweeping motion starting on the bottom edge going into the glue block. I flushed them and took nothing off of the bottom of the sides. And it was quick and easy to do.

tap tap tap - even tighter than yesterday
knocked the corners off
I'll leave these as they are for now. I almost rounded them off after I sawed them and there is a high probability that may still happen.

glamour shot #1
last glamour shot
Examples of boxes made exactly like this had been found in a 2000 year old Roman shipwreck.  It's a very good design that hasn't changed for an awfully long time.

still brand new and unused
I bought these at the last Amana hand tool event in 2015. I have watched Don Williams finishing DVD 3 times where he extols a plain wax finish. I'm still not sure about it and how it would compete with shellac. I may find out if the finish itch needs to get scratched.

buying molding planes can be addictive
This is a 5/8" torus bead plane that Joshua at Hyperkitten said was an unusual small size. Small size is what made me buy the plane. I don't know what I'll use it for but I'll be adding it to the herd.

I had to try it out
I flattened and squared two faces on this piece of scrap for the test run. The grain is going right to left and I'm ready to make a torus bead.

both hands on the plane like this
The right hand is on the heel the same way the left hand is on the toe. You start at the far left end and progressively move backwards to the right.

this is what you end up with
Looks pretty close to what a astragal looks like except the left side wall is 'pointy' where an astragal leaves a groove.

looking down it from the end
Out of the box I got a clean profile end to end. This is douglas fir too which can be a royal PITA to mold edges cleanly on.

boxing was loose
I was able to pull both of these out with no coaxing at all. I scrapped off the old hide glue (I'm assuming it's hide glue based on the age of the plane) with a sheet rock knife.

lightly scraped the bottom of the boxwood grooves with a 1/8" chisel
gluing them back in with hide glue
boxing glued in
Killed a few minutes lightly sanding the iron's few rust spots to get a better look see at the business end. The more I use these planes, then more I feel like there isn't any need to go 21st century nutso sharpening these. On the other hand, I think the frequent readers of this dribble know that I do like shiny. And it doesn't necessarily have to be brass.

I'll leave the plane in the vise until it sets up tomorrow. I'll probably sharpen and hone the iron then too. Considering the age of this plane it is in pretty good shape. It will definitely be a good user.

box #2 tails
I chopped the tails on box #2 which puts me one step closer to having it done. This will be the inside of the box and it hasn't been touched with a plane or sandpaper.  These are the reference faces.

inside edges
The two reference faces lay up against each flat and straight, end to end.

the outside faces
These have been planed and I eyeballed everything doing it. I didn't use winding sticks to check for twist nor a straight edge to check for a hump or hollow. I am doing this box the same way I did box #1. The insides faces are just about 100%  perfect and the outside ones I can plane to make them look pretty.

two outsides faces laid up against each other
As you can see these faces don't look the same as the two inside ones did. It doesn't make any difference as long as I pay attention to my reference face and edge.

the box as it will go together
Making sure when I transfer the tails to the pin board that I keep the numbers aligned and the reference faces together is what matters. I will also scribe my baselines matching each corner so I won't have proud or shallow tails and pins. With this setup you can't gang cut the pins and tails because each corner is slightly different.

I'm 180 out
When I laid out my box and numbered my corners I did them wrong. I always make the bottom edge my reference. But this time I wasn't paying attention and the outside face was on the inside and the inside face on the outside. In order to straighten out that mistake (noticed it after I had sawn the tails), I had to put the reference edge as my top. It's not a deal breaker and I should end up with the same box as #1. But smaller.

 accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first 7 foot tall professional basketball player?
answer - Ralph (Sky) Siewert

box #1 is done.......

Thu, 02/02/2017 - 12:48am
It's lacking a finish but I am also keeping this box for myself so it may not get one. I made the decision to keep it for me tonight while I was working on it. I have a couple of similar boxes in the shop but they are mostly taller. This is about the same length as them but it is half the height of them. I'm sure I will find something to keep in it.

step one in plugging the holes
The box is in my face vise so the scrap got stuck in the wagon vise. I sawed 6 vertical cuts, one for each plug.  Two of them were sawn a wee bit off vertical.

why2 were sawn a wee bit off vertical
The two holes on this end on the outside of a tail. The left side is plumb and the right one is sloped because of the tail. In the end the walnut plug will be a squarish size and as long as it covers the hole, I'll be happy. I did all the fitting and trimming of the plugs with a chisel.

tried something new
I saw Paul Sellers use a rasp to flush a plug today on his video woodworking class.  It worked as well for me on this small one as it did on his big one.

last one plugged
I was going to stop here but I went ahead and cleaned up the four sides with my 4 1/2.

I am a big fan of bracing on the bottom of boxes. It still amazes how much a couple of little pieces of wood can tighten up a bottom.

I split them out
Why? I don't know. For some reason I thought they would perform better if I split them out. I was looking at these and thinking how was I going to plane them? Then it dawned me to cut them to length, glue them in, and plane them afterwards. While I was standing at the bench having this revelation, I saw some scrap on the deck that was a better choice than these.

glue choices
I am going with the OBG. I like using it especially for this purpose. As the glue dries it pulls it self tighter to the sides and the bottom. I fixed these in place with a simple rub joint.

3 on the long sides and 2 on the short ones
tap tap tap
Glued in the blocks and I can already hear and feel a difference in the bottom. Tomorrow I will plane the blocks flush and then it should sound like a drum when I tap it.

front of the box
The bottom edge of the lid has a bit of fuzz on it. The front flat end grain is bit chewed up on the left here. Since it is flush already I can't sand or plane it anymore. Other then that I like the chamfer now and I think I should also do one on the ends where the groove is. Just thought of that now - having it mitered would line it up with the chamfer on the lid.

I like this astragal detail
The color hides the astragal some but it is there. I'm undecided now on a finish but I was thinking of trying a wax finish burnished/applied with a polisoir. We'll have to wait until tomorrow and see what shakes out there.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who is Dick Grayson?
answer - the name of Batman's sidekick, Robin

some things went my way.......

Wed, 02/01/2017 - 12:24am
Box #1 is almost complete, woodworking wise. I only have to plug the groove holes and plane the outside. That will complete the woodworking and applying a finish will be done after that. 4-5 coats of shellac and I can give it to my wife. One awesome, handmade box, made from the old kitchen cabinets.

this didn't go my way
Last night after supper I came back to the shop to plane the the other side of this. I didn't want an imbalance with one planed side and other not planed. On my second swipe going straight across I broke off the top thin piece. I took it out of the dogs and I broke the big piece left over in two with simple hand and finger pressure. Needless to say I won't be gluing this back together.

This wood is very dry and brittle and I think this was the cabinet side that was up against the stove. Working with this stuff has been a wee bit aggravating and I think I'll toss these in the shitcan.

why it broke off
I didn't have my lucky new shiny brass toe screw installed yet. I'm sure if I had that, I wouldn't have broken the bottom planing it.

got them both installed
This was a good omen for me because everything else tonight in the shop went off without any hiccups.

my new old #3 knob NH plane on the left
mushroom knobs rule
According Bill Rittner, low knobs are what everyone requests. High knobs are a special order and have a $10 extra charge.  I think this knob fits the plane better than the high knob.

new on the left and old on the right
I have seen several different styles of the barrel nuts. To my thinking, since only the top is visible, what is underneath doesn't matter.

spare #3 iron
I now have a back up iron for my two #3 planes. I put this on the sharpening bench with the 7 other irons waiting to be sharpened. I got the screw in the pic from NH plane too. It was something I've been looking to get for a couple of years now. As soon as I saw it, I bought it.

my record 405
I bought this screw to replace this one because it is broken. This screw is a micro adjuster screw for the fence. With it you can move the rosewood fence in or out and dial in the position dead nuts. I bought it because although this is an English made plane, it was made under a Stanley licensing agreement. This plane dates to around 1946-1950-ish which means all the screws are imperial. I don't think they went metric until the  1960's. I took a chance on it and it fits. Now I have a micro adjustable fence that works.

Had to make a maintenance detour here (forgot to take pics). I had a hell of time getting the fence and the skate off of the rods.  I had some funny looking crud on the rods where the fence was locked down. I lightly sanded them with 800grit paper, cleaned them, and then waxed them. I did the same on both of the skates. I'll have to schedule some time this weekend and do a more thorough job of cleaning up everything.

trimming the overhang
top of the lid
This looks pretty good now that I planed the 3 steps flush and even. I like that the color and grain kind of flows into each other and it looks a lot like one board now.

the bottom cleaned up nicely
This was a dark brown and it looked like crap. The color of this side is close to what the top is. I'm going to keep this and use it for the lid.

marked a 1/8" strong

ripping it to rough width

I have learned from other boxes like this that I've done that it is best (for me) to leave the width strong. Make the rabbets first, and then plane it to fit in the grooves. I sawed it an 1/8" strong and after I planed it straight, I was left a 1/16 strong.

making the rabbets with the 10 1/2

I got nothing to lose here and everything to gain experience wise.

almost down to the gauge lines

10 1/2 cleaned the shoulder too
The plan was to use the 10 1/2 to get the bulk of the waste removed and than use a bullnose or shoulder plane to get it to the gauge lines.

I used the the 10 1/2 to do the entire job. I planed the rabbets, cleaned up the shoulders,squared them,  and trimmed the width until it fit. If you are a lefty, you can use this plane too because it is ambidextrous. If the lid had been longer than this I would have used a different plane.

I left the lid over sized in the length so I would have something to grab to pull it out as I fitted it. I trimmed it to final length after I got the molding detail sorted out.

good fit at the back between the lid and box
is this enough?
I have to take this clearance on the outboard bottom into consideration when I mold the edge of the lid.

which one will contact first
If the right side hits first, I won't get a complete round. If the left one bottoms out first there will be much joy in Mudville. I am constrained with the size of the rabbet, I can't make it any bigger because it is fitted to the groove. I don't want to rely on my eyeballing of this saying it is ok and end up with a bead with a flat top haircut.

got the profile
I made another rabbet (from the broken bottom), the same size as the one in the lid, and planed the profile. The right, outboard bottom of the plane came close to the top of the rabbet but there were a few frog hairs of clearance.  There was enough that I chanced planing the profile on the lid.

beveled the front edge
Very happy with how the molded profile came out on the lid but having the front edge of the lid square didn't look good to my eye. I planed a 45° bevel at the front to ease the astragals into the end of the lid. I didn't want the front bottom edge to be a point so I planed a small flat there on the shooting board.

layout for the thumb catch
I made the catch with gouge - the one recommended by Paul Sellers. I think it is a #7 with a 35mm sweep. Another awesome trick I learned to do because of him.

almost done
Putting those two shiny brass screws in was good luck. Everything fell into place and I went from one step to the next in a nice orderly progression with no hiccups or speed bumps to contend with.

four of these to plug
the walnut stock
This is shade over an 1/8" thick and I'll plug these up tomorrow with it. I think I have enough to do the job.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the world's highest railroad?
answer - the Qinghai-Tibet Railroad at 16,627 ft above sea level (5,068m)

the lid from hell........

Tue, 01/31/2017 - 12:27am
No lid joy again tonight. I'm still working on the one for box #1 and score is now 4-0, in it's favor. It was 3-0 and I was hoping I could make 3-1 but it isn't so. It'll be another day before I can try to make the lid for box #1. Box #2 got some work done on it but I quit the shop early. I have to try and find that refrigerator handle I found sunday. I forgot to bookmark it so I'll have to retrace my steps

four glue ups ready to unclamp
It has turned colder the last few days and there is snow forecasted for tuesday. My shop usually hovers around 57-62 degrees which isn't warm enough for glue to cook.  All four of these spent the night and day by the furnace and tonight they felt warm when I worked on them.

underside of the lid
This is real grungy looking besides being very ugly. I will definitely scrape or plane this to lighten up the color. The good news is that it is bigger than I want or I need. I have lots of meat to square the ends and make it parallel.

time to check it
burnt toast
It survived the shaking test and that got my hopes up. I held it by this piece and the weight of the handle broke it off. And the handle weighs less than a small bag of feathers.

cutting my filler to length
flush on the right
flush on the left
This piece is a bit wider than the thickness of the front. I put the overhang at the front to be planed off and flush on the interior  side of the box.

glued in place
I let this tack up for about 5 minutes. I didn't want this to shift when I clamped it. I also didn't want to use any nails to hold it in place. The use of them would have been useless due to the thinness of it.

I want this to be a good glue bond so this will stay in the clamps by the furnace until tomorrow.

liquid fecal matter right up to my armpits
Another split on the lid and it is situated so that if I break it off, it will be too short in the width. I'll have to glue this to maintain my width.

split off
I stuck a screwdriver in the split to open it open so I could get some glue in it and this happened.

glued it back together
I planed the splits and glued it again. The more I look at this lid that less I like the idea of using it. Especially so with the underside being so crappy looking. I have now glued this panel up 3 times and I don't have a warm and fuzzy that I won't being doing it again.

I am expending all these calories so this box will be made almost entirely from the old kitchen cabinets. I'll think more on it but this lid could be history come tomorrow. I have a piece of pine that I can get a one piece lid out of but I will have to plane it to match the thickness of the box stock.

box #2
Tails are sawn along with the half pins. The chopping of them will commence tomorrow.

bottom for Box #2

This stock isn't wide enough to extend past the box on all four sides equally. Instead of doing that, I'll inset this into the sides and flush with the bottom edge. On this one I will try to make a stopped groove.

box lid for #2 and my Bill Rittner order
I bought a threaded stud for the #3 and one for the #4 planes I have - for just in case. I only needed one barrel nut but I like having a spare. And I can't resist shiny brass.

what the brass screws are for
My 4 1/2 and the jack will be getting the shiny brass additions. I'll save the original screws along with my other plane parts.

too thick for the bottom
I think this is overkill for a box bottom. Box #2 isn't that large and I can get by with a thinner bottom. Now I'll have to decide on whether to rabbet the edges to fit the groove or to make the bottom the same thickness as the groove.

box bottom is now humpless
I had the jack out so I used it to remove the hump on this side. The other side is slightly concave but this will sticker overnight and I'll finish this up tomorrow. Maybe. My NH plane parts should be in tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Toru Iwatani?
answer - the creator of PAC-MAN

one box glued up......

Mon, 01/30/2017 - 12:36am

One down and one to go. Still haven't finished the spice rack and I thought I would have gotten more done on the boxes than I did. I tripped over a speed bump on them that set me back a bit. Solving problems like this that pop up is what keeps me interested in woodworking. I went at it pretty good today but still not at the level I had a few years ago. Thought I would never say I am making concessions to my age.

out of the clamps
This doesn't look as good as it did yesterday. Then it looked almost perfect and today I can see the joint line readily. It still looks good but for a lid I wish it was closer to one a one board look.

groove for the bottom done
I went back and forth on this bottom groove before making it. I wanted a stop groove and I could have done that with a corded router. Nixed that real quick. Another option would be to do it by hand. That is something I have only done once and the results were so-so. The groove didn't come out as clean as if I had plowed it. It also had a few spots that were ragged out and the groove was slightly wider than an 1/8" in spots.

In the end I opted for through and through. After the box has cooked, I'll plug the four holes with walnut or padauk. I could use the same wood as the box but I want them to pop out a bit.

Had to make a road trip here because I didn't have any 1/8" plywood. I thought  I had some but the pile only had 1/4".

almost 2 hours later
The website said the store opened at 0900 but the time on the door said it opened at 1000. Grrrr (^*#&;(amp;#!$@% and Grrrr again. Update your &^@*#amp;%!)(%**#&%%$# website. Since it took 20 minutes to drive to the store, I decided to kill the hour I had to wait.

I went to Lowes and Home Depot to check if they had any 1/8" plywood. Both stores had 1/8" hardboard which (IMO) is totally useless for drawer bottoms. I then wandered around looking at 2x lumber. I've been pricing stock for my bench and it's a shocker. I may take Steve's advice and use douglas fir 4x4's for the base and paint it.

I was looking at 2x12's and I don't want to make a bench out of this type of stock again. I can save $$$ if 2x stock is used for the base. Doing that will free up money for the top which is what I want to use a hardwood on and not 2x stock again,.

I don't know why I bought 3 big clothes pins for a dollar each. I had a thought of screwing them to my cabinet doors to clip papers in. That may or may not happen in my life time because the thrill is gone now..

tricky part - compensating for that thin web
I set the fence on the 043 four times and I still thought I was too far over and the groove would end up below the top of the front. Instead of that I'm 3 frog hairs shy of top of the front end. This gap to my eye looks like crap because this is the front of the box and it is what you see first.

bottom fitted
thin piece of cherry
This piece of cherry is a few hairs too thick . The trouble with getting it to thickness is how do you hold it? I used double stick tape but the piece was so thin after planing it that it broke trying to separate it. On to plan #2.

found this one on the deck
This is from what I don't know but it will work. It is tapered, thick on the right and goes to nothing on the left. There is enough meat inbetween the ends to get my piece.

glued up the box first
The box would not stay square without clamps. I would square it and watch it slowly go unsquare. I tried clamps on the outside of the box and they pulled it out of square. The miter clamps are working and I'll let this cook until tomorrow.

thinning strip #2
got it fitted
The two ends are flush with the bottom of the groove but the middle is OTL. I usually plane a hump but this time I made it concave big time. Time to try plan #3.

another piece of toast
I planed the top too thin. I planed one edge which was rough sawn. I didn't think I took off more than a 1/8" but it was enough to do this. I can't use it for this but I know that it is way oversized for box #2.

another speed bump hiccup
I dropped something on the floor in the kitchen and I reached up and grabbed this to get back up. This was the handle on the refrigerator - FYI - refrigerator handles can't be used to haul up my old fat butt off the deck. I epoxied this back together but I don't have high hopes for it. Epoxy doesn't always work on plastics.  And this is a thin connection to be gluing back together even if I could glue/epoxy it.

this is the new lid for box #1
The two pieces on the right were one board. I was going to glue it up when I noticed a split in it. I broke it completely and now I'm going to glue it back together.

ripping off the split
setting the gauge to the thinnest part
8 1/4" rough
The outside measurement of the box is 8 1/16" so I have a big enough lid now. The far right board I had to replace.

the reason why I replaced it
Even though this is the bottom of the lid, this looks like crap.

new piece
The color match is close but the grain isn't. I only had two pieces to choose from and this was the best one.

glued up the lid for box #2

When I do a glue up this is the last thing I look at before I set them aside by the furnace. I check to make sure that the stock is down tight to the clamp. The blue tape is keep the glue drops off of the clamps.

solid wood bottom for box #2
Sizing what stock I have left and it doesn't look good sports fans. I still have to square the ends and make it parallel. As it is here, I have about a 1/4" overhang all around, I'll lose some of that on the length but not the width. After I get it out of the clamps and trued up, I'll either use it for the bottom or put it aside for something else.

box #2
This is stock isn't much different from what I had to work with for box #1. I have a slight taper on both of these that I planed and checked just by eye. I had my ever present humps on both of the ends that I also planed off by eye.

I'm going with this as it is

where my shop day ended
Dovetails are laid out and I'll saw them tomorrow. My two references are the outside faces and the bottom edge. All of the layout will done off of them. When I mark the baselines for the tails I'll put the end on the face for each corner. I won't use the bottom of the sides to do it. I think this box will come out as good as #1 did.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was John Clayton Jr.?
answer - Tarzan, whose title was Lord Greystoke

odds and ends day......

Sun, 01/29/2017 - 2:30am
I worked today in bursts and a few things got started and stopped. Nothing done at the end of the day but I need one of these shop days more now than a few years ago. A few short years back I would have said the spice rack is done (still haven't painted it or finished the knobs), one sliding lid box would be done and started on the second one, and I would have done a lot of maintenance that is slowly growing in size to rival Mt Everest.

I didn't participate in the shelf build off. I had an idea for a shelf and I wanted a live edge piece of wood for it. I will make the shelf once I get that special piece of wood.

I will figure this out - today
The only difference between this big astragal and the one I just bought is the size of the profile. I can make one with the big one but not the small one. The needed rabbet detail is toast. I've been thinking about this and all my molders have a stop that once it hits that it won't take a shaving anymore. This big astragal did that. It planed and then stopped.

I'll sharpen and hone the iron first
Once I get that done, both planes will be equal with sharp irons.

checking the iron against the sole
It doesn't line up as well as the 3/8" astragal but it doesn't have to be a perfect match. Based on my limited experience with molding planes, this looks to be ok.

making the bevel shiny
I flattened the back and sharpened the two outside 'wings' freehand. I can do freehand sharpening but only when I have to. I want to hone and shine up the center circular part next.

need to make a dowel
The smallest dowel I have it 5/16" which is too big for the cutout. I  have the tools to make my own. I rived out a bunch of billets to get one 3/16" dowel.

cherry 3/16" dowel
I stopped trying to make a pine dowel after the 3rd one disintegrated. They were working in the 5/16 and 1/4 holes but didn't like slimming down for the 3/16 hole. After I got the cherry one I spent a few minutes sanding it to smooth it up.

blurry pic, but it's shiny and sharp
I started with 220 and ended with 1200. This is probably overkill based on the shape I see the irons in when I get them. What continues to surprise me is that they work in the condition they are in.

ripped off the molded edges
I used this to practice ripping out moldings. The sawing part of it was easy, planing it square I didn't try. That part will be done tomorrow if I can figure out a way to hold it. I did notice that the better I saw this, the easier it will be to square it up with a plane.

figured out the stops
If you run the plan on the flat at the outside edge, the outboard side of the plane is out in the air.  It is not going to stop the plane at all. The small rabbet on the inboard side of the plane is the stop that will not allow the plane to cut anymore.

both the same except for the size

Both of the stops are slightly above the top of the bead. That ensures that it is complete and round rather then having a flat on top of it.

a little higher than I would like it
I fiddled with this for a while. If I lined the circular part of the iron with sole, the two flats were beneath the sole and would not cut. I had to compromise between the circular part and having the flats protruding enough to cut .

got a partial  profile
I had to compromise a bit more and get the iron set a wee bit deeper. The flats were defined but the center bead looks more like a tongue than a bead.

got it
The grooves are clean, flat, and crisp. The bead is 'domed' end to end and just as clean and crisp. This is out of scale for this piece of pine but I finally figured out how to make it

works the same
The inboard stop worked but the planed profile doesn't match the sole that well. Especially so with the center bead. The 3/8" astragal matches a lot closer than this one does.

made another big
I will saw and square this one up tomorrow. On the opposite side I have the 1/4" one to practice on too.

I think the scale is just right for this box
I will use this on the two boxes I have waiting in the wings.

this sanding debris sinks
This sanding residue has a stench to it that would make a buzzard on the meat wagon gag.  Yesterday I was brushing it off the sandpaper and the smell of it stayed with me seemingly forever. I blew out my snot locker when I got up this morning and it was black. Note to self - don't brush this off anymore and let it get airborne. Use the damn vacuum cleaner or wear a mask.

vacuum sucks it all up
In the pic above, the sandpaper had been brushed off but it doesn't look like it. The vacuum got it all.

something is there
It is still a little grungy here and maybe with a few more swipes, something will pop out. I didn't want to spend the rest of my saturday sanding away on this so I put it on the sharpening bench. I'll pick this back up later on.

all the way from Japan
 This sat in customs in New York for almost ten days before I got it.

blue steel plane iron
This is the only Stanley style iron maker I know of who doesn't make an iron that is 1/2" thick. This isn't too much more thicker than the Stanley iron I got this for as a back up. This iron is 0.0915 thick. The Stanley iron in my #7 varies from 0.0785 to 0.0835 because it has slight taper in it.

I bought it as a spare for my #8
it's a spare for my #7 now
I'll be looking at the Tools from Japan site again to see if I they sell an iron for the #8.

sliding lid box in the raw
I tried something new with this box. I have read that all that matters is having one reference face and one reference edge. That is what I have here. I planed the paint off of this and I didn't pay any particular attention to flat, twist free, or humps. I eyeballed one face flat looking and squared an edge to it. I did all my layout, sawing, and chopping off of those two references.

it isn't a bunch of BS
I thought that I would have a lot of loose fitting tails and pins. Just the opposite happened and I got a snug/tight fit on all of them. All of them are also flush, with none of them being below each other.

lid stock
Both of these boards aren't wide enough to use for a lid. I thought they would have been but it isn't so sports fans. I have two options - 1. glue this up to make it wide enough or 2. find a thicker, wider board, and plane it down to this thickness. As much as I dislike a glued up lid, I think that is the way I'm headed.

minimum width would be 7 3/8
this stuff will not stretch
this is an awfully good match
It looks like this board was this wide and then cut into the two shelves. The color and the grain is almost dead nuts for a match. I can rip off the piece on the pencil line (left) and a thin piece on the right and avoid having those holes in the lid.

glued up and set by the furnace
the second box lid
This board is too narrow to use as a lid for this box. I can shorten the ends so I don't have to do a glue up for it too. I have to check these parts first for parallel and square before I do the tails and pins dance steps. I'll finish the first one before I start this one.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a spelunker?
answer - a cave explorer

#3 done......

Sat, 01/28/2017 - 1:37am
Well it is almost done. I have to make a few decisions before I can say whether it is 100%. This has been the most challenging plane rehab I've done and I got a boatload under my belt. I've been lucky up to this point that the knobs and totes I've gotten had been ok. This #3 has a tote that is total crap and I think the front knob is off a #4.

The tote should be replaced both for cosmetic and functional reasons. I bought a new barrel nut to replace the one in the tote because it is chewed up. Replacing the tote is going to take some thinking. I can get a Bill Rittner made one but not necessarily in rosewood (which I want). I could search the WWW for one but that is hit or miss. NH plane didn't have any totes but I did buy a rosewood low knob for the #3. I checked a few other sites but none had a tote. If I do have to buy a replacement tote/knob, I'll put it on my current #3. I'll take the tote/knob off it and put them on the newly rehabbed #3.

I only paid $35 for the plane and I just bought $37 worth of parts from Bill Rittner for it that I now don't need except for one barrel nut. I have a new, still in the wrapper #3 iron,and a #3 knob coming from NH plane. I'm already into this plane for $90 plus. A replacement tote/knob will run me about $65 with S/H.  If Bill Rittner has rosewood, the cost will go up about $30.

obvious knob size difference
My current #3 has the knob from the #3 I'm rehabbing now. The plane on the right is a 10 1/2 which is the same size as a #3. No mistaking the difference between the two.

another size comparison
Three #4 planes on the left and the #3 on the right. It looks to my eye that the right knob is the biggest one on the bench. I'm liking the top #4 knob as being the one that should be on the #3. NH plane said the knob was for a #3 so I'll wait until I get it  before buying another one.

6 quick strokes
I want to do the frog but this was set up so I took some strokes to see what I was up against.  Slight hollow at the very front of the toe towards the right. A hollow just behind the mouth tapering out to the heel. This is 80 grit sandpaper and it looks like it will be a while before I change grits.

my frog planing jig
I can't take credit for this. I saw this many, many moons ago and I copied it. I can't remember who so I apologize for not being able to credit you. It is just a piece of 3/4" plywood with a slot cut in the middle. The slot is for the disc on the lateral adjust to free wheel in as I sand the frog.

This is the frog after working it on 100 grit sandpaper. I'm stopping here because I have a flat face and a nice shine on 99.9% of the face. I usually go up a one more but this is looking good as is, so I stopped here.

fixing the lateral adjust
Matt just got done rehabbing a #4 and he fixed his lateral adjust with a ball peen hammer. My lateral adjust flops back and forth with no friction whatsoever. I haven't done this before so I took my time and checked my progress after every 4-5 hammer blows.

It is stiff and stays puts wherever I position it. No more flopping back and forth freely.

making shavings
You can't argue with that. As ugly as this plane looks, it is producing shavings as well as my current #3.

shavings from my current #3
I can't see, feel, or tell a difference in the shavings between the two planes.

backed the iron down
Made fluffy, wispy shavings too.

10 struck on the right side
The first ting I thought of when I saw this was it could have been a school plane. If not that maybe a plane from a factory tool room?

The plane works well in spite of it's looks so I think I may pony up the greenbacks to fully restore it.

I shouldn't be doing this
I got my 1/4" astragal plane out trying to get the profile. I should be getting ready to go to dinner once my wife gets home. But I had few minutes leeway. I made a quick rabbet in this scrap to try it out.

bottomed out
Having the rabbet on the outboard side of the plane did diddly for me. The profile is only partially being made before it stops cutting. This is improvement over what I tried the other day.

stopped cutting
start over by planing that profile off
make a rabbet on the inboard side
Got less of a profile than I did on the first attempt. Having the rabbet on the inboard side did even less then diddly for me this time.

3/8" astragal plane
I know this plane works because I have a larger profile. I bought the 1/4" astragal to put the same detail on smaller sliding box lids.  Maybe I should try it again with the rabbet on the face rather then trying to put it on the edge.

this is the way to do it
I got the profile and then kept on planing by extending the iron. This iron needs to honed which I'll do this weekend. I want to get this plane up and running because I want to use on the two boxes I have waiting to be done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a selenologist?
answer - someone who studies the moon