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Accidental Woodworker

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The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2793125
Updated: 1 hour 30 min ago

5 1/2 done again......

Fri, 02/02/2018 - 12:36am
I finished the 5 1/2 (again) and I blame it on my increasing skill in rehabbing planes. I was happy with what I did the first time but some things change for the better. I think that taking the 5 1/2 a couple of more steps paid off. Now, not only do I have a plane that still works like a dream, it is pretty darn good looking too. I am hoping that I don't find something else I can add to the rehabbing steps with future ones because I want these to stay done.

After I completed the 5 1/2 I started back on the 10 1/2. I thought it would have been a simple follow up rehab and it would have been done tonight too. Instead I took a left turn and upped the ante. I don't remember all that I did on the first rehab but there were a few steps that I am doing now that I didn't do then. It'll be this weekend before I will be able to put a check mark in the done column for the 10 1/2.

up to 400 grit
I'm still not getting a wow shine on the lever cap. But it is an improvement over my previous doings. I went from just cleaning and degreasing, to sanding to remove rust, to trying to shine them. Not very shiny but shinier than what I got from just a clean and degreasing.

10 1/2 on the left   5 1/2 on the right
 The 5 1/2 cleaned up pretty good with the Bar Keeps. The 10 1/2 knob will need a bit more help to bring up a 100% shine.

before and after brushes
A brand new brass brush on the left and what it looks like after cleaning two adjuster knobs with Bar Keeps.

still not a wow
I used Autosol on the lever cap and I can see a slight difference. It cleaned it some and raised a bit of a shine. I think I'll have to be content with the shine level and go with the protection it affords.

put on the frog too
I put it on mostly for the protection factor.

back together
It only took a few dance steps to get my shavings spitting out correctly. Same width and thickness on the left, the middle, and the right. The 5 1/2 is done and has rejoined the herd.

the before and after
The 5 1/2 looked similar to the 4 1/2 before I rehabbed it for the second time.

stern view comparison
this is a sweet looking daily user
the shine on the lever cap looks good on the bow shot
the before pic
I thought this looked ok for a daily user before I went down this rabbit hole. I remembered to take a before pic of this one but not the 10 1/2.

found an ugly spot - 10 1/2 frog
The sideswere bare in a few spots before I painted it yesterday. I lightly sanded it tonight to see if I could remove the bumps along the edges. I couldn't and I don't like the rough textured look on this sides. This and the other side of the frog will be visible on the finished plane. I used the file on this to smooth it out.

filed and smoothed
I didn't go nutso on this - I just wanted to remove the bumpy look along the edges.

the other side
This side was sanded and I totally forgot to snap a pic of it after I filed it smooth.

didn't forget to get a pic of it painted
It looks better than the paint job from yesterday.

the other side painted
used a small brush to paint the area around the lateral adjust
Wally World brushes
I got these in the art department at Walmart. 10 brushes for less than $10. I thought if I got one use out of each of them I got my money back on them So far I have used only 3 and the same three for all the tools I have painted. So far they are holding up with all the painting and cleanings. The third brush from the left is the one that I use 99% of the time.

knob and tote for the 10 1/2
I sprayed 3 coats on the two and they look a lot better than what I started with. Most of the 10 1/2 is rehabbed. The frog will have to get a second coat and that will hold up finishing this plane until this weekend.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know a golden set in tennis is where the score is 6-0, with the winner not losing a single point?

troubles come in threes.......

Thu, 02/01/2018 - 12:23am
Maybe it is an old wives tale and maybe it's just total crappola. But I have had two troubles with the third happening today. When I left work to come home, I had the fun of having a flat tire to deal with. There was no mistaking the tire was flat and sitting on the rim and I wasn't going home right then and there. I have AAA and they responded to my service call in a little over a half an hour. I was thinking maybe the Tire Gods were smiling down at me.

The service guy filled the tire up and he could hear a low hiss of air once he was done. He ran his hand over the tire and found a bolt stuck in it. Cause of the flat found and then I got a real pleasant surprise. My pickup truck had a full sized spare tire. AAA changed the tire and I got the joy of  driving home in the rush hour traffic. Will the fun just stop now and let me off the merry go round?

The tire problems started this morning when I left for work. All four tires were stuck and frozen to the driveway and I had to do some rocking back and forth to break them free. The skid indication on the dashboard went into overdrive and wouldn't shut off until I got to Warwick Ave. The truck was also making a funny noise and was pulling to the right. That was the tire that went flat - right front passenger side.

I thought I had thrown the truck's front alignment off breaking free of the ice. When I got to work I looked at all four tires and they looked ok so I went into work. I figured if I had the same problems going home, I would make an appointment and have the front end checked. With the spare tire on, the pulling to the right disappeared and the rubbing noise was gone too. I'll get the tire plugged and put back on the truck this weekend.

the 10 1/2 frog
It was 1645 before I got down to the shop. I didn't have any time to do anything but check on what I had done last night. I hit this with a couple swipes of 320 grit and the bottom where the iron sits is high on the left and low on the right. It looks like I'll be adding a few days to getting the 10 1/2 up to the standards of my recent rehabs.

tarnished and not so shiny
I expect this with the brass and I'll hit the both of them again with Bar Keeps Best Friend. I remember in metal shop in Junior High School that anything brass, that was meant to be shiny, we dipped in lacquer to keep it that way. I am thinking of spraying one of them with lacquer to see how it holds up to it.

kind of shiny
I hit this with the HF buffer and it doesn't look that bad. It still didn't make me say wow but maybe with the right rouge it will.

it's in there somewhere
I didn't have a good grip on the brown rouge and the buffer wheel caught it and flung it in here somewhere. I couldn't put more rouge on the wheel to see if it would make me say wow.

5 1/2 frog is done
All I had to do to finish this was sand the face to remove the paint spills.

the backside
I sanded the frog seat and the bottom pads that contact by the mouth. Tomorrow I'll touch up the plane body with 400 and 600 grit and put some Autosol on it. If I get the adjuster knob shiny, I'll put it together and it will be done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a 6 foot wide shuffleboard court is 52 feet long?

snow et al things.......

Wed, 01/31/2018 - 12:27am
The weather seers were predicting 0-1 inch of snow falling overnight into the morning commute and stopping around noon. They were wrong on both counts. About 2-3 inches fell and it stopped around 0900. The drive into work was an adventure because almost nothing was plowed. All the side streets to Rte 10 were a complete mess and Rte 10 only had one lane clear. Not a problem because once I got on it, I was all alone all the way to work.

Had another problem that came up yesterday. My father-in-law slipped and fell in his kitchen and broke a vertebrae. He went to the ER(?) where an x-ray showed the break and he was sent home. I don't know anymore than that about it. Today he can't get out of bed so my wife is going there to have medicare get a home health aide to come in to help with his daily needs.

Normally my wife's sister, who lives down the street from her parents, would be doing it. But she has the flu and can't be around them. So my wife is leaving tomorrow to get the paperwork started but I think she is in for a surprise because she has never dealt with something like this before.

changed lanes on the 10 1/2
It is illuminating to look at this plane that I already rehabbed and compare it to what I am doing now.  I can see a few differences and this paint job is first. I was surprised by some things I did on this plane that I left as being done as being good also. It seems as my rehab experience has increased, my skill set it doing individual items in the rehab have increased too.

I do like shiny
I don't think that I spray painted too many planes. Maybe 2 or 3 at the most. I like the look of this enamel paint applied by hand. I am going to repaint the 10 1/2 and I won't be doing the wax on and off dance steps.

I think I can get away with one coat
The 5 1/2 should be ready to be put back together tomorrow. The 10 1/2 may take another day as I found a couple of things that needed attention. The frog had to be touched up with paint in few areas. I don't remember painting it back then, It may need a second coat tomorrow. I also will have to sand the frog face because it looks like I never did it.

typical Harbor Freight crappola
The manual says that this can not be stalled. That is total BS. I can not only stall it, I can stop it dead with very little effort. I slowed it down to nothing applying the brown rouge and did the same buffing a lever cap. As long as I keep this in mind, this will work. I don't anticipate this getting a lot of long term work anyway.

10 1/2 lever cap
I sanded it with 120 and then buffed it with the brown rouge. This is the level of shine that I got.

sanded with 220
I got a better shine with the sandpaper than I did with the buffer. Maybe this is a metal that doesn't like to be worked on a buffer.  I will continue my shining efforts with sandpaper and I'll go up to 400 and call it done with that.

casting pits on this flat
got a bigger one on the opposite flat
I won't be able to sand and feather these out. I'll sand and shine them the best I can and I'll have to live with it.

another comparison
10 1/2 tote and knob compared to my just finished 5 1/2 tote and knob. The 10 1/2 is a light colored rosewood which I like. I will spray a couple of coats of shellac on it and see how it compares then.

Another short night in the shop but I have to help my wife get ready for going to upstate New York tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know the standard width of a bowling alley is 41 1/2 inches plus or minus a 1/2 inch, excluding the gutters?

feeling like crap......

Tue, 01/30/2018 - 12:27am
I started to get a headache round about noon-ish today. It is one of those annoying ones that hovers on the periphery deciding what it wants to be when it grows up. It would throb a little for a while and then fade away. Off and on all afternoon and when I got home it settled behind my eyes. It almost kept me out of the shop and it did shorten the to do list significantly.

left over 044 parts
I picked out the best ones and put them on the plow I'm giving to Miles.

done
I had buffed the nickel plating on the fence and the top of the plane yesterday. I didn't make me say wow.  It was more of a humph. The rods I wiped down with 4-0 steel wool and the nickel on the screws and such I'm leaving as is. I don't think I would raise any appreciable shine with the rouge I have. I will make a pit stop at Harbor Freight this weekend and get some rouge and a new buffing wheel.

had to do some rearranging
My submarine training paid off again. I haven't lost my touch with putting 20 pounds of crap into a 5 pound test bag. I don't have any more toolboxes or planes to put in here so this is pretty much carved in stone.

giving both of these to Miles
I was thinking of making holders for the both of these and attaching them to walls in the bottom above the planes. I'm not sure I have the room for that now that I have rearranged things. I will check it out this weekend if I remember it.

the final resting places of all the toys
6 coats of shellac
It darkened up like I expected and obscures most of the grain on the tote (except at the top) and all of the knob.

scraped the primer off the frog seat
bottom came off pretty easy too
I used the Harbor Freight heavy duty scrapper at the bottom.

painting the lettering and numbers
I don't want to have any paint pool in the letters/numbers so I over brushed this area checking for that. I came back and stroked it a bit more with a dry brush after the paint had set up for a few minutes or so.

This will need coat #2 tomorrow but the frog and the yoke will be done. I put the second coat of black on them tonight.

10 1/2
I did a full blown, sand, strip, and paint rehab of this last year or was it the year before? I didn't hand paint the plane, instead I had prayed it. It is has a dull matte look and it needs some shine there. I am not going to repaint and the first step towards shiny will be cleaning it first.

then I'll wax it
I will take the knob and tote off to apply the wax and get rid of the interference when I buff it out. I think this paint has had plenty of time to cure. I shouldn't have any problems applying wax to it now.

another plug for Autosol
I used Autosol on this way back when I finished the rehab. I haven't applied any since and I have used this several times to make rabbets. It still looks good and this is where I ran out of gas for the night.

The plan was to get this waxed and buffed tonight and call it done. The #3 might need some painting. I can't remember how far I went with the rehab on that one. I did it several years ago so I probably didn't strip and paint it. Checking that one out will have to wait until tomorrow or possibly the day after.

Blogger bit me on the arse again. I published two comments, one from Sparks, and another from Steve, and both ended up in a black hole somewhere. I can't access the comments for this blog post at all. It's annoying to me that I don't know what causes the comments to freeze like this and lock me out of them. So my apologies Sparks and Steve, I think they got published but I can't respond to them

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Mort Walker drew the Beetle Bailey comic strip for over 50 years? (he passed away today at age 94)

tool rehab day......

Mon, 01/29/2018 - 12:38am
I ended up doing rehab work for most of the day. I hadn't planned on that, it just happened. My hands weren't hurting too bad and all the finger work I was doing wasn't bothering me. So I went with the flow and did what I could because I never know when they will start singing arias. I also changed the rehab schedule. I was going to do the #7 and #8 after I got done with the two I have in the queue now. I switched that to the 10 1/2 and the #3 being next. Why? I use them more than I use the #7 and #8.


what is the white line?
I am not getting any jamming under the chipbreaker but I still want to know what that white line is. Is it a gap between the chipbreaker and the iron? I flattened the back of the iron and I stoned the back edge of the chipbreaker. So two flats should equal zero light, right?

back of the chipbreaker
The edge is shiny and consistent in width side to side. The white line I see I thought was light being reflected off of this but it isn't. I shined a light at the front I can see that for about half of the width. I have a gap but I still am not getting jamming? Why?

I can close it
With almost no finger pressure on the chipbreaker, I can close the gap. When I do that and shine the flashlight on the front, I see no light under the chipbreaker and no white line.

the third part
The lever cap is providing the final bit of pressure on the chipbreaker to close the gap. I checked 5 of my spares and all five of them have a gap I can see when the flashlight is shined on the front. I do not have a problem with any of these jamming or getting shavings under the chipbreaker. Some of them have questionable flattened iron backs but all have a good stoned edge on the chipbreaker (similar to the one above). So the lever cap must be what is closing it when I use them.

5 1/2 tote
Scraped and sanded up to 320 grit. This will turn dark once the shellac goes on. I like this lighter unfinished look because I can see the grain. The shellac tends to hide that.

scraped the knob
The finish on this wasn't shellac and I'm guessing it was lacquer.

the grain runs up/down
Most of the ways I have seen this done is via the dill press. I have done them in the drill press too but I don't do that anymore. Sanding them in drill press means your are sanding across the grain. I opted to scrape and sand the knob with the grain.

scraped and sanded up to 320
The whole operation on the knob took less than 10 minutes to do. Both of these are ready for shellac. I will brush on the first two coats and then I will spray on 3-4 more after that.

problem area on the 5 1/2
This area doesn't have any japanning and it is incredibly difficult to clean and sand to bare metal in this area.

part of my Harbor Freight road trip
I got these to scrape all the areas I can't sand and get my fat fingers in.

got a buffer on sale for $45
I had a $20 off coupon and I got the upgraded warranty on this. In the first 90 days if this goes south they will give me a new one. After that she said they will fix it which means they will give me another one then too.

replenished my brushes
These were all on sale and I needed them. I go through at least one steel and one brass brush on each plane I rehab. The brass ones especially don't last too long.

filed the edge until I rolled a burr
it worked
I was able to scrape the rust away down to bare metal. The burr didn't' last too long but it worked. I had to make a fresh burr a few times to complete these two spots.

Autosol test
According to the writing on the tube this stuff cleans, shines, removes rust, and protects a lot of different kinds of metal. I don't think it shines all that much and I'm going to find out if I'm right or wrong. This is the before pic.

it definitely cleaned this
You apply this with a rag and then wipe and buff it right away.

I don't see a difference
I think for this to shine it would have to be a 'wow' moment to get my attention. It didn't say wow but I do know that this stuff protects. I had used Autosol on this about 4-5 months ago and it still looks good.

LN #4 1/2
I have never used Autosol on this before and it has some rust blooms on this side at the toe.

a few dabs of Autosol
 It doesn't take a lot and this is probably too much.

done
It didn't completely remove the rust blooms but it did it justice and got 95% of it. I give it a C+ on the shine and an A on cleaning. This is good stuff and worth having in the shop to put on your tools.

I don't see much of a shine raised
buffer set up
I'll try this out on the 5 1/2 rehab with the lever cap first.

first application of stripper
what I use to clean the stripper off the plane
shop apron
I have 3 of these and I can count on one hand and still have fingers free, the number of times I've worn any of them.  On the last rehab I got the dust from the sanding in my pants and it stunk worse than a pair of gym socks forgotten in a locker for ten years. I'll try to remember to wear this and keep my street clothes clean. At least when I'm rehabbing tools.

tried the scraper on the plane
The scraper worked pretty well with getting the remaining japanning off. I had 4 sizes to pick and choose from.

2nd and 3rd applications
The stripper doesn't stick and work well on vertical parts of the plane. I stripped this side first and then did the other one. The two other vertical spots are the cross brace in front of the mouth and the back of the frog seat. Extra work but I don't have a sandblaster to help out.

sanded with 80 grit paper  and cleaned with acetone before the primer gets sprayed on -
extra screws/studs to cover the holes

I had to stuff a bit of paper towel in the frog adjust screw hole because I don't have an extra one of those.

for the frog seat
I have used this before with good results. I coated the frog seat and the two bare areas at the bottom by the mouth.

 I fixed the 044
The first 044 with the new fence on it didn't work. It will plow a groove but not with the fence up against the edge. I could keep the back heel of the fence there but the toe wandered off to the left away from the edge. Nothing I tried changed that. I then ran 3 grooves with the new 044 without any hiccups.

removed the grooves from test run #1 for a second run
ran 4 more grooves
I did the first one starting at the left and working back. I did the next 3 by starting at the right and going to the left. No problems with plowing the grooves. No problem keeping the fence tight against the edge. Much joy and rejoicing in Mudville with dancing in the streets.

I did have one problem
The depth shoe slipped on me.

the last groove
I plowed it so deep it met the bottom of the other groove and planed this piece right off.

I'm happy with this
The grooves are parallel to the edge from the toe to the heel. The second plow plane is working as expected.

first one on the left, the replacement on the right
I wish this was the opposite of what I'm keeping. The first 044 has better nickel plating then the right one. I think the problem with the first 044 is definitely the front hole wasn't drilled 90° to the body. . The rods on the 2nd 044 are both square to the body once I tighten the screws on the rod.

The first 044 is stowed away on top of the finishing cabinet.  I will use the rods from it with the new 044. The 2nd 044 has two different sized diameter fence rods whereas on the first 044 the two are the same. I will use the plane as it is and hold off on getting replacement rods. I am leaning in the direction now that the rods are designed this way. Maybe it was done this way because of manufacturing practices at that time.

both planes have the same Record design number
On the heel of the skate is a Record design number but the iron clamps are different. Everything else on the two plows are the same except for this and what follows.

why it slipped
The rods on the depth shoes are different diameters. I would expect these having the same design number that they would be identical. Maybe this is why it slipped but it also could have slipped because I didn't tighten down the screw enough.

cleaned, degreased, and rinsed
I will give these small parts an EvapoRust bath. I stopped at Home Depot to get some Rem oil but I couldn't find it. The Plane Collector uses that on his small parts and he said he gets it from HD. I asked the tool guy there and he said he never heard of the stuff. I'll stick with my oil regimen for now.

something odd
I just noticed this about the lever cap for locking the iron. See it?

just the rounded end is nickel plated
It is looking like I'll have a couple of tools rehabbed this upcoming week. The 5 1/2 will be ready for paint tomorrow and the Record 044 should be ready too. I just have to rinse the small parts, buff the ones I can, and put it together. The 4 1/2 should go as quick as the 5 1/2 is but we'll see.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know in the original story of Cinderella, her slippers were made of fur and not glass? (It was a translation error from the story's original french to english)

slow saturday.......

Sun, 01/28/2018 - 1:51am
My arthritis has been acting up more lately and today it curtailed my saturday doings. It doesn't hurt much unless I bang or jam a finger. I especially see stars when I hit either of my thumbs. I can deal with the ping and work through it. What I'm having difficulty working with and around is the lost of strength. For some  woodworking tasks it doesn't matter but when you have trouble picking up your coffee mug.....and I drink coffee 24/7/365.

got my drawer slides
Both the drawer and the bottom tray are on the large side so wooden guides are out. I got 75lb, full extension drawer slides. I doubt that I will come close to this rating on the bottom tray with all the tool boxes that will be in it. And I know I won't even get to a 1/3 of the weight rating on the drawer.

for the top drawer
for the bottom sliding tray
I still haven't realized that these aren't what I think they are.

how are these tabs used on a sliding tray?
when in doubt read the instructions
What I called bottom mount drawer slides is this. I thought that what I ordered were drawer slides that mounted underneath the slide out tray. These slides still mount to the sides of the cabinet and I lose 2 plus inches side to side that I don't want to. I wanted under mount slides so I maximize my side to side to allow the toolboxes to fit. I'll have to figure out what I want, is called.

These slides are meant to be used in a vertical application. I could put them horizontally underneath the tray but I lose the benefit of the ball bearing action. The weight and force will be downwards where as the ball bearings will be acting horizontally on air basically.

how it is attached
I will use this one for the drawer and I'll save the one I bought for that for something else. Now I'll have to search for tray slides(?).

#4 tote
I scraped the epoxy spills off. Almost all of them were around the glue line.

first coat of shellac
It already looks like I never scraped this down to bare wood. I will put on 3 more and this will be done.

thinning the handle
I like the semi oval, tapered handle on this pigsticker. However, it is just too fat front to back. I have big hands and I didn't like the grip I had with it. It was hard to hold securely and chisel with it. I will keep the shape of the handle as it is but I will concentrate on removing wood at the front and rear and minimize removal on the sides.

my cue
The handle overhangs the bolster all around. I will even the bottom of the handle with that and taper it back up to the top of the handle.

feels a lot better
My thumb reaches and touches my fingers now.

getting closer
I think this improved the sighting of the chisel. BTW I think the handle is made out of beech. It looks like the beech I have in my stash.

made another quick mortise
The business end of the chisel has been sharpened with a rounded bevel. I prefer a straight one so it'll be a while before I get that.  I did a quick run on the stones to raise a burr and then I chopped this. I didn't do any layout lines, I just chopped it free hand. Doing this mortise with the thinned handle felt better then the one I did first with the fat handle.

changed the barrel nut twice
I don't like this being recessed this far down.

used my last Bill Rittner barrel nut - not much better
5 1/2 is in the batting circle
I have already rehabbed this plane. I have done everything on this one I did on the previous two with the exception of painting the frog and plane interior and refinishing the knob and tote.

the sole
I don't remember when I did this but it still looks good. Sanding and polishing the sides and the bottom is the hardest part of the rehab work. I shouldn't have to do anything more than touch it up with 400 and 600 grit after the stripping and painting is done.

the state of the japanning
It has some loss at the heel and toe with a few spots on both cheeks too. The frog is worse than I remember it being.

clean and degreaser action first then stripper
need some more sanding sticks
Paul Seller has used these but I made some only after seeing the Plane Collector make and use them. They are handy little gizmos to have when sanding the various plane parts.

made a pile
I made most of these with one free edge mostly because I was having problems with holding the sandpaper in place as the glue set on four edges. Two of the longer ones on the left I will cut in half. I tried to make dowel sanding stick but I'm not sure about it. I didn't get the sandpaper to go 360 so it may turn to burnt toast on my first use with it.

This is where I packed it in for the day. I went upstairs and caught up on the Hall Table video series that Richard Maguire is doing . After that I put in Joshua Kleins's DVD on building a table.  I'll have to watch that one again because I fell asleep while it was running and woke up when it was done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Uncle Tom's Cabin (published in 1852) was the first American novel to sell over a million copies?

#6 and #4 planes completed.......

Sat, 01/27/2018 - 12:26am
Most of the #4 was done last night. I was so close that after dinner I went back to the shop and finished it using a spare tote. The #6 I did tonight after work and both are ready to join and lead the herd. This bug I have for rehabbing my planes is going to take a while to complete. Just thinking out loud, I have 9 planes waiting their turn. My 5 1/2 will be next followed by the 4 1/2. The next two after these are completed will be the #7 and #8.


finally found a pic
This is the way I received the #4. The iron had been derusted and it is badly pitted. The tote broke on me but the rest of the plane was in pretty good shape.

time to see how I did
This is my first time epoxying rosewood and I'm anxious to see how it came out. I didn't prep it in any special way like cleaning it with acetone or scraping the old glue off. I just applied the epoxy to one side and taped it together.

I think I did good
The handle hadn't shifted while it was taped and cooking away. Aside from the tape residue, it is flush according to the finger tip test.

I banged the snot out of this
I rapped this several times on the workbench trying to break it again. It didn't so I'm calling the repair 100% this time. I don't want this break again on me.

both are totes off of a #4
There is a visible difference in the sizes of these two. I know that the tote on the left is from a #4 because there isn't a screw hole in the toe. I had the left one on the #4 and it just barely fit under the lateral adjust.

it's a better fit
The heel fits just right on the small half round disc at the back of the plane. The other tote protruded past it all around.

two problems both fixed
The first one is the slot of this barrel nut is chewed up. This is the one that a big burr that I had to file off. I wasn't going to replace it but after the calorie count to get the plane to this point I might have to.

The other problem was screwing the barrel nut and stud on the plane. Usually I screw the barrel nut on the stud and then screw it into the bottom of the plane. I couldn't do that this time. I had to thread the stud into the plane first, slip the tote on and then screw the barrel nut on. The problem was the stud was pitched forward and wasn't centered in the counterbore on the top of the tote. I had to push the rod back and slip the barrel nut on and then screw it home. It took a few turns on the dance floor before I nailed it.

last step
I love this stuff. Not only does it shine up metal, it protects it too. I am liking the protection more than the shine. And it lasts for 3-4 months before I have to apply it again. Glamour shots are next.

45
starboard side
stern shot
port side
it's a keeper
It is making nice fluffy, see through shavings. I got it set to pass even shavings on the R and L with no fussing at all. This will serve me well at the upcoming class and I will put it to good use in the shop.

forgot the bottom shot


the #6 bow shot
I searched for a before pic but I gave up. I have bazillion pics and after slogging through them for 45 minutes I had enough.

starboard side
The original rosewood tote and knob on this plane I put on Miles's #6. I bought a replacement set made of rosewood from Doz. I can't remember where the maker said this came from but most likely it's a central America variety.

stern shot
port side
bottom shot
had to back up the frog
I had the frog too far forward and the iron wouldn't extend through the mouth. I don't change my frogs once I set them so the frog screw advance on the later types or bedrocks don't hold any magic for me. In all my years of using planes I can recall only one time that I moved the frog to change the mouth opening.

unbelievable shavings
I set it for equal R/L shavings and then I made a boatload of the fluffy things. Something magical to me when I see them effortlessly come spilling up and out.

see my dilemma
The #6 sticks out looking real pretty while it's neighbors look like junk yard wrecks. I will do the Stanleys for sure but I haven't decided what to do with the LN or LV planes.

used the original iron in the #4
I decided to try the iron that came with the #4 to see how it would work. It performed as well as any other #4 iron/chipbreaker that I have used.

why I wanted to put it aside
This is what bothered me about this setup. Looking underneath the chipbreaker hump I can see white. I can't see through the chipbreaker/iron meeting, just a white line. I planed a boatload of shavings with this and when I was done I checked this. I found absolutely nothing jammed or underneath the chipbreaker. Nothing more annoying than getting shavings jammed up in the chipbreaker. I don't know how to explain the white line but it obviously isn't effecting making shavings.

cleaned the tape residue
I got that cleaned up but there are few spots that I think are epoxy spills. I'll leave that for this weekend to fix. I am still calling this done regardless.

I found out something tonight about the blog I didn't know. If you do a double enter key stroke, that the blog gets published. How do I know this? I did it while writing this blog post.  I'll have to try and remember that quirk. I checked unplugged shop but it doesn't appear that it got published. Maybe I got lucky and reverted it back to a draft before that happened.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a lepidopterist is someone who collects or studies butterflies?

new toys.......

Fri, 01/26/2018 - 12:31am
Got two in the mail, one for me and one for Miles. My toy is a replacement Record 044 and Miles got a 1/4" pigsticker. Can't honestly say that I'm thrilled to pieces with either one. That is the luck of the draw when you buy old tools. Both will need a bit of fettling to give the warm and fuzzy feeling.


1/4" pigsticker
I decided that I am going to get a 1/4" and 3/8" pigsticker for Miles's toolbox for now. These are the two most common size mortises and should get him going. I'm sure that before he gets to use either of these, I'll have added a couple of more to the herd.

funny shaped handle
It doesn't feel too bad in my hands but I think it will be way too big for Miles.  I may thin this down a bit and keep the oval shape.

my new 044
The rods from my first 044 with what I now think are hang holes. The new 044 rods don't have them.

first rods fit the new 044
The fit of the rods is still sloppy. And the sloppy fit is consistent in all four holes.

the fence works
The fence will cock itself on the rods but I can also make it parallel. Far away or in close, I was able to duplicate cocking and making it parallel. Once I tightened down the fence screws, it was tight and maintained the setting.

plowed a long groove
I started at the front and worked back taking full length strokes when I got there. I had no problems with the fence and it maintained it self up tight against the edge.

first one on the bottom, new one on the top
The new one has more nickel loss and the handle is showing rust on it. The screws from the first one are in better shape looks and rust wise over the new one. I can swap these out with each other.

10mm rods
They fit snugly in the new plane body and they fit only in the front holes on the fence. They barely go in 1/8" and no more.

eyeball for parallel looks good
it was off 32nd
It was easy to correct but this will prove to be a PITA with each use. Maybe with new rods I won't have to do these dance steps. For now it is an improvement over the first 044.

both rods wiggle in the holes
The back rod wiggles much more then the front one does. I really had to crank the screws to tighten them down and remove all movement in them.

done with all the sanding
I won't be able to get these put together tonight. I'll be tomorrow before I can show the glamour pics.

the tote broke again
I am not impressed with the gorilla glue at all. This is my third time using it and it is the third time it has failed on me. I put water on side and applied the glue to the other side. I got some foaming so this should not have broken again on the same line again.

I'm using epoxy this time
clamped with electrician's tape
I am doing one last check to make sure it is flush before I set it by the furnace to set up overnight.

10mm rods
McMaster said the rods would be .02 less then 10mm.

new fence rod
second fence rod is thinner
This is why one rod is looser in the holes than the others. This time I'll take Steve's advice and buy the 9.9mm rods. They are less the 6 inches long but I haven't had to make a groove more than an inch in from an edge yet. The rods that came with the 044 are about a 1/2" longer so I'm not losing much.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know the longest refueled plane flight was made in a Cessna 172 and it lasted for 64 days, 22 hours, 19 minutes, and 5 seconds?  (Bob Timm and John Cook were the two pilots who did this in 1959)

I'm this close......

Thu, 01/25/2018 - 12:26am
......mental pic of thumb and forefinger being squished together. I still have neither the #4 or the #6 done. I am oh so close, but still no dancing in the streets. It is looking like it will be a few more days before they are done.  Sanding both planes with 400 and 600 grit is taking longer than I anticipated. But that is all that is needed to be completed on the #6.

The #4 needs that, and the finish applied to the tote and knob, and some more sanding action on the lever cap followed by buffing. The iron for the #4 is toast. I spent a little time trying to get the chipbreaker to lay flat on the back of it and I couldn't get it. The chipbreaker is good and I can use that but I'll have to use one of my spare #4 irons on this plane.

#4 tote
I got 3 coats brushed on this last night before supper and before I finally hit the rack. The crack didn't disappear but the shellac toned down the whiteness of the line.

more noticeable on this side
Not perfect but acceptable. I just may have to elevate the status of this plane to a user vice a parts plane.

putting the yoke back on the #4
I read a blog on restoring  planes where they removed the lateral adjust lever.  He filed the back side of the pin that is peened. The installation just said to peen the pin again. No pics or any verbiage in explanation of removing or putting it back. For now I'll stick with just removing the yoke. That is easy for me to do both ways. But having the lateral adjust off would make sanding the frog face easier to do.

the ubiquitous blurry pic
I tried to sand this but the paper ripped because there is a big burr. This being brass, I thought I could sand it out but that didn't happen with 320 grit.

tried out my new files
I used 3 flat files and all 3 filed ok. I bought these mostly for the non flat ones for shaping in my upcoming class.

trimmed my 3 new sanding blocks
my biggest sanding block
I am thinking of putting this tote and a front spare tall knob on this. I also think it would benefit from some kind of holding thing to secure the sandpaper too. I won't put any cork on this until I make up mind on how to do this.

ready to start sanding
The plan is to use the big one on the #6 and the smaller on the #4.

gave me the willies
I tried sanding this on the bench but that wasn't working. I couldn't maintain control of the sanding block and the plane at the same time. Clamping this in the vice was giving me cold sweats. There is an incredibly super fine line between clamping this and saying 'aw shit, I broke it'. I sanded the sole with 400 and 600 grit and took it out of the vise.

smaller sanding block on the sides
 This is was how I spent the majority of my time in the shop tonight. Sanding can't be made glamorous with the written word nor can it be enhanced with pics. Doing the sides is easier than doing the sole but I'm thinking of making a jig for this. It's something to think about that would make the sanding easier and a bit more secure.

2 sprayed coats of shellac
I have a couple of cans of shellac and before they go bad I want use them up as I can. I will spray two more coats on theses and call it done.

knob is looking real good
The plane collector uses lacquer because he said that is what Stanley used. I like shellac as being friendlier to use. I don't have a lot of experience with lacquer. They last time I used spray lacquer in the basement it stunk up the whole house.  Shellac smells medicinal.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a standard credit card is 3 3/8 inches by 2 1/8 inches?

(time flies) 2nd posting......

Wed, 01/24/2018 - 12:30am
I made a pit stop on the way home to get some soup. Shaws has it on sale for 99 cents a can down from the regular price of $3.49. The catch is there is a limit of 4 cans so I've been stopping every night and picking up 4. Did that tonight and still got to the shop before 1600. Before I knew it Mickey's big hand was almost on 12 with the little one on 5. I felt like I just got there and I didn't think I got anything accomplished.

#6 is almost done
I sanded the paint off of the frog seat.

sanded the paint around the mouth off
I could put the #6 back together as it is now and call it done. This plane is used for flattening stock so it won't get a lot of regular use. But I want to avoid having a different look with my planes. Regardless of their usage or function, I want them all to at least look the same. This will be getting the sanding treatment up to 600 grit before I put it back together.

time to get some more sanding blocks ready
I left this clamped since saturday and I made up what I needed to sand the the #6 and the #4. I glued them and they will be ready to use tomorrow.

cleaned the #4 with Acetone
I had already cleaned this plane 3 times with degreaser and I couldn't believe how dirty the rag got with the acetone. I had lightly steel wooled the plane and the letters and numbers came out light again. I don't know if you can paint over japanning but I'm going to find out.

All the screws etc for the #4 are cleaned, oiled, and ready to go. What's left is the lever cap, the brass adjuster knob, and tote/knob shellacing. I'll work on that while the paint dries on the plane.

doesn't even look like I had painted it
There isn't any bare metal showing but the steel wool knocked back a lot of the paint that was there. You can see the lettering on the heel is decidedly lighter then the areas around it.

white rouge
 According to my research the white rouge has some cutting action and will remove scratches. It didn't remove the ones I have on the lever cap. It also didn't wow me with the shine level.

better than the brown stuff
It does seem to be a little shinier than what I got with the brown rouge. I think I might get the Harbor Freight buffer for $45.

this sucks
Holding the drill on and using my other hand to buff the lever cap was doable but awkward. I would rather buff with two hands holding the lever cap. The HF buffer is 1/2 HP and has two wheels that turn at 3400RPM. I don't think the drill develops sufficient speed to buff adequately.

#4 lever sanded lightly with 320 grit
Given a choice between patina or shine and I will opt for the shine. Using a sanding block is hands down the way to sand this. I have done all the previous ones by hand but no more. I'll be using a sanding block from now on.

#4 brass adjuster knob - before
partial after pic
I cleaned the knob with degreaser and a wire brush and I got a pretty decent shine with it.

sanded the  inside of the knob
This knob looks damn good and I still have to use Bar Keeps Best Friend on it yet. The only hold up on getting the #4 done is paint drying and getting some shellac on the knob and tote.

Sorry abut the blog being published as I wrote it. I hadn't finished writing it yet and noticed that it had been put on line already. I don't know how much of it got published but I reverted it back to a draft so I could complete it. I changed the title and published it on it's intended day, the 24th.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Naomi Parker Fraley was the original model for Rosie the Riveter? (she passed on saturday at age 96)

rolling cabinet pt ?..........

Tue, 01/23/2018 - 12:25am
When I made my plane reservations sunday I was surprised by the available flights. There were only a few direct flights to Covington.  But all of them left too early in the morning for me  and got in way too early in Ky so I picked a two stop flight. This is what I don't understand. On the way there I stop first in Washington DC and then a connecting flight to KY. On the way home I fly to Chicago and then home to Providence. It seems to me that this is a bit wacky and inefficient. My wife flies 4-5 times a year and she says it has been this way since forever.

$20 with S/H
I bought these to take to my woodworking class. Brendon says to bring a new metal file and some shaping ones. These are basically needle files with wooden handles. For the price I couldn't pass them up. And if I forget them there or lose them, it will be no big loss.

rouge colors
I looked up rouge colors on my lunch break and this is what I found. On all of the sites the colors and what they do were pretty consistent. I came away from this a bit confused on what to use on the lever cap. I am not sure what kind of metal it is made of and the brown rouge didn't shine it much. I am going to try my green honing rouge on the lever cap tomorrow.

no groans, whimpers, or relaxing when the clamps came off
one nail blew through on this side
and one on this side
The nail didn't come through as much here as the other side. That is the crap shoot with nailing plywood. You never know how the nail will hit a ply and where it will go.

pulled them both out
It is impossible to use a nail set and punch the nail out. I will glue the blowout back in place later.

got it set on the rolling base
I got a good fit on the back and the sides. The front is a 1/2" shy which is what I wanted. I did that because I thought I would need that to access the locking casters.

casters are off
I will have to swap two of the casters to get the both locking casters at the front.

screwed it to the dolly
I have two screws in the dolly temporarily holding the cabinet in place.

it rolls around nicely empty
loaded up
I am debating whether or not to put a sliding tray on the bottom. If I put in side mount drawer slides I lose 2 inches in the width. If I put in bottom mount slides I lose one inch in the height. As it is here, I can easily fit everything I want here.

about 6" of clearance.
I think a 6 inch deep drawer would be deep enough but I want to err on the side of bigger is better.

moved the boxes around and gained an inch
The Lee Valley box with the rebate plane will be redone to reduce it's footprint.

rearranged
I think this will work but I'm not sure how I'm going to like kneeling down to get toolboxes out of this space. I may have to take the Stanley 45 box (at the back right corner) out and keep that somewhere else. Doing that will reduce the overall height and I can probably get away with a pull out tray.

two more sanding blocks
I will use these 3 sanding blocks as my bench sanders. The cork didn't cut cleanly due to me not using a fresh razor blade.

2nd coat
There were two big holidays on the back inside of the side walls. I may have to paint those areas again. I'll have to check that tomorrow and decide if I have to put on coat #3. It is looking like I might have the #4 done tomorrow and maybe this #6 too.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a clew is a ball of yarn or thread?

Woodworking class........

Mon, 01/22/2018 - 12:37am
I would like to take a woodworking course every weekend of the year. That is not going to happen but I can still dream. The problem with taking classes in another state is the ancillary costs. I can afford just about any 2-3 course being offered anywhere. The problem is the costs for travel, lodging, rental car, and filling the pie hole. In my case these costs are 3 times the class price.

I'm taking a class in Covington Ky in June. I paid for the class and I just got done making hotel, flight, and car rental reservations.  If I hadn't already paid for this class I would be taking a different one. Issac Blackburn is teaching a saw filing class the same weekend I'm going to be in Covington. Oh well, maybe I'll catch him next year.

ready for paint
I cleaned the interior with degreaser and it's ready for paint. Once it is painted I will finish the sanding of the sole and cheek walls. I still have to go through 400 and 600 grits.

the #4 frog
I cleaned the frog of all the grunge that was on it and lightly sanded it. The frog came out of that with a lot of paint loss on both side walls.

the back of the frog
Most of  the bare spots came when I cleaned it. I sanded it lightly and removed a bit more. I'll have to paint this to cover all the bare metal.

for the plane interior
I'm leaving the japanning as it is on this plane. The wax is to give it some shine and it's a cleaner and wax in one to boot.

leftover cork
I bought this to make a cork board for my wife that she doesn't use. I plan on using this to make some sanding blocks. I did some searching on line for sanding blocks and there are a lot of them to look at. I think I'll come up with another design to add to the soup.

my marble threshold
I am thinking of changing how I secure the sanding belts to the marble. I normally do it this way. At the front I hold it with the dog.

at the back I hold it with a clamp
I do it this way because I have 6 belts to put on and take off and only one piece of marble.  Steve left a comment about this being less than ideal due to the sandpaper rolling as I sand. That tends to sand a slight bevel at the toe and heel.

I'll glue the 80 grit down
This is where the sanding blocks come in. 95% of the sanding during my plane rehabs comes with the 80 grit. The rest of the grits I use are basically just doing scratch removal. The 80 grit removes the most and flattens the sole. So the plan is to glue the 80 grit to the marble and make sanding blocks for the other grits and do them by hand.

#4 frog painted
the inside
I had to clean the inside again. I missed some grudge in the corners behind the frog. I used a wire brush there and on the numbers. I removed the japanning on the tops of them.

not white anymore
I used the brush with almost no paint on it and it did a good job of covering the tops of the lettering and numbers.

had same problem on the toe
painted a few spots on both cheek walls
I painted the cross brace in front of the mouth too. It had paint loss on the top of it side to side. The plan is once this is dry to steel wool the plane and try and blend in what I painted with the japanning. After that I will apply the wax and see what I end up with .

4x4 will give up 3 sanding blocks
I flattened two reference faces and I am going to try and get 3 of them out this.

one down and two to go
I cut this out on the bandsaw and did it so that the sanding block is quarter sawn. I'm hoping that will help the sanding block to stay flat and straight.

bandsaw cuts are all tapered
planed to a parallel thickness - just the Doug Fir blocks
This will get me going and I'll be able to assess how well it will work. I have to attach my method of securing the sandpaper which will be a piece of channel iron and a bolt and nut. I still haven't decided whether or not to use cork on all of the sanding blocks. I think what I'll do is make one with cork and I'll glue the sandpaper to a second one. Then I can compare the two side by side.

gluing the cork
I don't know how well this adhesive will work on this. These 3 blocks here are maple of no set size. I didn't gauge these by how many pieces of sandpaper I could get out of each sheet. Instead I cut out the blocks based on how they felt in my hands.

not glued
The cork has a curl to it after being stowed this way for a couple of years. I clamped up the cork with the sanding blocks to see if I can flatten it a bit. I'll leave this until tomorrow and check it then.

gluing up the cabinet after lunch
23 year old compressor
I bought this when I got out of the Navy in 1995. It's still going strong after all these years. I thought that I would use this every day but that never happened. I was still in my power tool usage period then and Norm was still doing the NYW every sunday. He used a compressor so I thought I would use it too.

nailing the top and bottom
I don't want any nails to show on the sides so I am relying on clamps there. The top and bottom will not be seen in the finished cabinet so I am nailing them. I used hide glue and I will leave this in the clamps until tomorrow.

it's staying here too
A friend of my said that this was overkill using plywood for the top and bottom. Normally I would have used 1/4" for the bottom and two 1x3s for the top. One at the front and one at the rear. But since this is a frameless cabinet I used 1/2" plywood for the top and bottom for strength and to stiffen the cabinet.

tried a sanding block
This is the way I'll use the maple sanding blocks. I tried it on the sole and sides of the #5 and it worked ok. I don't think there will be any problems sanding planes or wood with this.

tried my buffing wheel
The kit has 3 different sized wheels and this is the middle sized one. It comes with 3 colored rouge sticks and says that it will shine a variety of metals. Read the instructions and I couldn't find anything stating what color rouge to use for what metal. All it says is to only use one colored rouge on each wheel. Or maybe it doesn't matter and each stick has a different abrasion/grit?

It made the lever cap a little more shinier but not by much. I must of missed something as to what rouge is used for what. I'll have to go back and look at everything that came with it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the Hartford Courant is the oldest continually published newspaper in the US?

plane rehab from hell........

Sun, 01/21/2018 - 2:22am
I have a lot of plane rehabs under my belt. I have gone from just cleaning them and putting them to work. The last 5 I've gone overboard on with it. I did one where I flattened the sole and shined it up going to 600 grit. Decided that I liked that look and all my rehabs get shined up now. Another step I've undertaken is stripping and painting the frogs and the interior of the plane body.

It seems with each plane rehab I am doing, I do something new and extra that I didn't do on the previous one. I am rehabbing two planes now and I plan on going back and re-doing all of my planes. I like the look of the painted and shiny planes a lot. It's funny because a year ago I was ambivalent about this level of rehabbing.

The #6 I'm currently rehabbing is kicking my ass. I have been flattening the sole on it for a couple of weeks. It hasn't been an everyday workout with it, but I thought I would have been done with this a long time ago. My stubborn streak kicked in this AM and I was going to get it done today or bust a gut trying.

I didn't bust a gut but the damn thing took me all day to do. It still isn't 100% done with all the sanding but I had to quit for today. There was one bright note in this day from hell and that is I got the #4 to the same point as the #6.

changed belts
This is the third 80 grit sanding belt that I used on the #6 plane. I just don't seem to be making a dent in this flattening at all. This flattening is the worse one I have done to date and it is straight out of hell. I can get the toe and the heel, but the inbetween just will not sand flat. I don't think I've overly anal about getting the soles flat on any of my rehabs. All I do is mark the sole with a black sharpie and when they all disappear, I'm done. All the blacks marks aren't disappearing on this one.

made a Harbor Freight run
HF didn't have any 80 grit 4x36 sanding belts so I bought some 6x48 ones. I cut one to the length of the marble threshold I use as my runway. HF didn't have any single 6x48's so I had to buy a pkg of 4.

marking the width
My marble is 4 inches wide and the plane is a hair under 3" wide. I thought about cutting the belt in half and getting two strips out of it 3 inches wide but changed my mind. I would rather have some room on either side of the plane as I sand it. I marked this and cut it out with a sheet rock knife.

I think I may go with 6x48 belts for the other grits too. With the 4x35 belts I have to hold one end with a clamp because the marble threshold is shorter than the belt. The 6x48 belt I was able to cut long enough so that the bench dogs pinched it fast on both ends. No clamp in the way as I sand.

new 80 grit belt is working better
I can still see 6 black lines. I worked on this, off and on, all afternoon sanding, and sanding, and more sanding. I slowly removed two, lines, then one more, then another, and the last two took forever to remove.

3 lines gone, 3 more to go
buffing kit
When I left HF I went to Home Depot which is one block away. I was looking for drawer slides and HD had a lot of them. I didn't get one though because I couldn't tell what kind they were. I want a full extension drawer guide rated for a 100lbs. The only thing I could see on the package was that it was a soft close one. BFD, I could care less about that. Full extension is more important to me and the HD guy didn't know the load rating or if it was full extension. It looks like I'll be getting it on the internet.

another hollow
Both sides on the cheek walls have a hollow. I finally got the black marks removed on the sole with 80 grit and found the hollows on the cheeks. It took a while to sand this out but not as long as it took to do the sole. I did hollow areas by hand and not on the runway.

soles sanded up to 400 grit
I will sand the both of these by hand with 400 and the 600 grit. But before I do that I'll paint the #6 and decide if I want to paint the #4. The plane body is good but the frog may need some help.

why I'm doing hand sanding
I had to touch up with sanding by hand from 220 grit up to 320. I did up to 400 on the sanding belt and I had to touch up the hollows on the #6. I sanded the #4 by hand too even though I didn't need to. The hand sanding seemed to remove scratches better than the runway was doing.

Getting these two planes sanded to this point is all I got done today. I made a road trip to get sanding belts and drawer guides, and about 2 hours eating lunch and searching the WWW for springs. The rest of the shop day was devoted to sanding. Boring, mind numbing, repetitious, sanding and I'm glad 99.9% of it is done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the Reuben Award is given annually for the best cartoon?

it's toast......

Fri, 01/19/2018 - 11:54pm
Sparks chimed in about his Record 044 and as I suspected, his is good. Fence rods are square to the main body and he reported no wiggling on the fit in the holes. I never felt good about the loose fit I had with my fence rods and especially the out of square condition of the front rod. I checked that hole with a dovetail square and the hole is drilled on a slant.

I am not going to buy a replacement fence for the plow. I would still have the square problem with the plane body.  I will strip all the parts from this plane that I can and save them. There are a lot of 044's out there and they are cheap if they are selling just the plane and one or no irons. The price more than doubles with a full set of irons. I already have the irons and just need the plow.

I will toss the fence in the shitcan. The plane body will follow it after I beat the snot out of it with a 3lb sledge hammer. I would like to be able to pass it on but the condition of it condemned it to the shitcan in pieces.

BTW, in my search for a Record 044 fence, I looked at the rods on every one I found. My rods each have a hole on one end. I didn't see one rod in my search that had a hole in the rods. Maybe these were replacements to fit the wonky holes I had?

back to work on the #6
Time to get back to the repetition of flattening the bottom of my #6. Black marks are used to gauge my progress.

15 strokes.
Based on this pattern, it is going to take a lot of calories to flatten this sole.

want to get an idea of the #4
10 strokes
Showing a lot more progress for less work.
3 minutes later
All that is left is a slight hollow aft of the mouth.

looks better
Instead of going back and forth along the length of the sanding belt, I went at it at 90°. I had done the same thing on the #4 so I tried it on this. The only thing about that I didn't like was not being able to keep the plane absolutely straight and flat as I sanded.

#4 done on the sole with 80 grit
sides done
opposite side
I could have done these a bit more but I stopped here. I didn't want to sand away the initials OP on both sides.

quick run on the 80 grit
The frog appears to be flat at the bottom where it needs to be. There is a slight hollow above the cutouts for the frog screws and before the lateral adjust disc.

have to be careful
I did this with enough overhang so I wouldn't touch the round disc on the lateral adjust lever.

almost there
Ideally, I want this to be flat at the bottom and the top by the lateral adjust lever. I'll finish this up on my frog sanding jig later.

looks like the #4 will be done before the #6
tried the big boy screwdriver
Screwed in a #8 x 1 1/2 and a #8 x 1 1/4 in a pilot hole.

got it flush on both
It took a bit of oomph to drive this flush on the last 16th or so. I drove them both in and then I drove them out.

driving them in a drilled hole
proud
I tried as hard as I could but this was the best I could do. To unscrew them I had to turn them a little bit first before the ratchet kicked in.

$12
It cost almost as much to ship it but I think it was worth it. The pics looked good and I wanted a large capacity hand drill for Miles. This is a 3/8" chuck capacity (I'll check it later) and it is a breast drill.

it's a two speed drill
came apart easily
the chuck is stiff
the chuck internal parts
One of the springs said "sprong....." and went airborne without getting clearance from the tower. I was lucky and saw where it went out of the corner of my eye.

it's dirty and rusty inside
three springs
The left spring is kind of ok, the middle one is iffy, and the right one is in cardiac arrest. I'll have to find a source for replacing these.

oiling port?
I thought that this was a pin at first but I think that hole is for oiling the shaft.

small end of a taper pin?
big end
This shows evidence of having been beat on in the past.

came apart as I thought it would
Except I wasn't expecting the half circular cutouts in each pinion gear. This isn't a taper pin, but a straight one.

this isn't working
Not getting anywhere using this setup. I might leave this as is and work around it.

quick clean and degreasing
I did this so I could check out the gear teeth. All of them are intact with no chips or missing teeth. There isn't any appreciable wear on them that I can see neither.

main shaft cleaned and degreased

I lightly sanded this with 320 grit after I had cleaned it. It showed rust as I sanded. I didn't see it looking at the shaft but there was no doubt there was rust being raised with the sandpaper. This will get an EvapoRust bath later on.

pinion gears look good too
I hadn't planned on doing a rehab of this but I couldn't shift the drill from low to high speed. I got it with the high speed engaged and I managed to get it into the low speed. I couldn't get it to go back to the high speed.  That is why I broke it down to parade rest. I'll add this to the rehab queue.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Brazilian soccer great, Pele, is the only player to have won 3 world cups?

help......

Fri, 01/19/2018 - 12:29am
Had a big oops in the shop tonight and I'll get to that a little later on in this blog. I need some help from anyone who has a Record 044. I had a mishap with mine and before I decide what to do with it, I need know a couple of things.  I want to know how well the fence rods fit in the main body and the fence. A little wiggle, lots or wiggle, or a snug fit? The second thing I would like to know are the fence rods square to the main body/skate? I would appreciate any comments on it and those will help me make my decision.

Lee Valley arrived
This hex adapter is as substantial as the ratcheting screwdriver is. I will try it out this weekend driving some #8 screws.

also got some 1/2" feet
These are for saw till box to keep it off the deck.

I am falling in love with this gadget
Even with my arthritis this is a breeze to use. Instead of a twisty, turning motion driving a hand screwdriver, this is up/down. Very little wear and tear and hardly a whimper from my hands. And it works great.

off the deck
I didn't like this setting directly on the concrete. Not only was it scuffing up the bottom, it was sucking up moisture too. It is not much of a stand off but it will do for now.


bought 4 more
The top one is the first one I bought and it is bent. The plane slipped out of my hands and fell on the bench from a height of about 6-8 inches. Bent the fence rod even though I don't think it fell on it. St James Bay had 4 rods for sale on his site and I bought all of them. I was being careful so I can imagine what a youngster will be able to do to this.

McMaster-Carr came it
Two 10mm rods and one 10mm drill bit that I wasn't expecting so soon.

about one inch shorter than the ones that came with the plow
don't fit in the fence (haven't drilled them out yet)
back rod fits - the front one won't go through all the way
won't go through trying to turn it by hand
still no dice
I ran the drill through the body and the fence holes. It didn't make the rods fit but the shiny looking spot in the hole is where the drill did some work.

Sorry Steve but I bought 10mm rods. Now that this is kicking my butt, I realize I should have taken your advice and bought the 9.9mm ones. These rods are supposedly smaller than 10mm but not enough.

disappointing
The rods will only go into the fence holes to about the middle of the screw hole.

new file for my school in June
I tried to file a chamfer on the ends of the rods but couldn't. They are hardened and you can't file them. Can't sand them neither.

back rod is dead nuts

front rod is not
I think this is what is causing my problems. This out of square rod is pulling the fence out of square. As I'm using it I'm putting extra tension on it and it is moving.

sandpaper wrapped dowel
I can see in the holes and there is dark dirty ring on the input side. The end I drilled out of is shiny looking almost 360. I tried to sand the input side to match.

it worked
I tapped the rod through the hole. I did it both ways several times and when I was done, I could insert it through the hole by hand. Both ways in the front and rear holes.

rods fit the main body
tapped it through the fence on one hole
This one isn't going as easy, smoothly, and it is very snug. I realized I made a rather huge mistake here. I tried punching it back out but ........

....... that didn't work
I see another problem and maybe that is why I'm having problems with this. The rod is cocked in the hole. It isn't much, but enough that I can see it. JBL weld isn't going to work on this. I have seen two 044 fences for sale online so I can replace this. One was for $20 and the other was in a bidding war.

I can get another fence but I'm not sure that I want to. I don't have a warm and fuzzy about the front fence rod being out of square. None of my other plows are out of square like this. This is why I want to see what other owners of this plane have before I decide what to do.

This was good spot to shut the lights off even though it wasn't 1700.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that entomophagy is the practice of eating insects?

more sharpening crappola.......

Thu, 01/18/2018 - 12:43am
Of late, I thought I was doing ok with my sharpening. I foolishly thought I had finally gotten to the end of the road on it but it turns out I was wrong. I use a honing guide to sharpen and there has been one annoying aspect of it's use that I was experiencing a problem with. The problem was once I set the tool  to be sharpened in the guide, I couldn't raise a burr on my coarse diamond stone.

Sometimes, I would have to grind the bevel again. That is something that should not be necessary if I was using a honing guide. I have been making my first run with the guide on an 80 grit sanding belt before hitting the coarse diamond lately. That is grinding the bevel (if necessary) and giving me a burr quickly and with minimal fuss. Again, not what I expect from using a honing guide. It's supposed to be repeatability that is it's #1 selling point.

did this first
Cleaning the parts first is paying off. The EvapoRust is still clean and yellowish after 4-5 uses. It appears to be losing it's initial greenish tint though. These are the parts for the #4 plane. I rinsed them, blew them dry, and coated them with oil. I set them aside for later.

bad pic of a pitted edge
I had to sharpen the irons in my 4 1/2 and 5 1/2 that are my daily users. I started figuring out the honing guide problem by looking at the chipbreakers. I had stoned and stropped this previously but on looking at it again I saw two pits on the ends. Step one was to eliminate me not going far enough on prepping the irons and the chipbreakers. So I stoned the edge until the pits were gone and I had a clean and clear edge.

I did 3 chipbreakers
I did the chipbreaker on the #4 I just got. It was pretty clean and pit free considering the condition of the iron. The 5 1/2 chipbreaker show here had a pit on the left side of it. It's a blurry pic but the dark spot on the top at the left is a pit.  It took a while to grind it away.

4 1/2 and 5 1/2 irons
I had already flattened the backs of these two irons. The 5 1/2 iron on the left shows a hump and the 4 1/2 doesn't have a consistent look across the bevel end. I re did the flattening by starting on the 80 grit runway first.

4 1/2 and 5/12
I have spare irons and chipbreakers for the 4 1/2 but I only have a spare iron for the 5 1/2, It isn't a Stanley iron neither. And the Stanley chipbreaker doesn't mate that well with it. I would rather use the Stanley setup together then this iron.

setting the iron in the honing guide
I flattened the iron back again. On the first time, I went from 80grit up to my finest diamond stone. I wasn't anal about getting a perfect look across the iron. I think that is where I made a mistake. The iron wasn't truly flat so that was why I wasn't raising a burr off my coarse diamond stone. I made sure that after each grit change that I had a consistent look across the width of the iron.

time to see if I was right
This is the way I expect the sharpening to go. A couple of strokes on the coarsest stone to raise a burr. Go through the next two diamond stones followed by the 8K stone. Strop the iron and the chipbreaker and get back to work. 3-5 minutes at the most.

got my burr
I can feel a small consistent burr across the width of the iron. I have noticed on watching how other people sharpen that a small bur is felt. Sometimes on the 80 grit runway I can raise a burr so big I can see it. I think this burr is in line with what I've seen more experienced sharpeners talk about.

I still like looking at shiny bevels
iron #2
Flattened the back of this iron again and made my initial run on the coarsest stone. I raised the same, small burr that I had gotten on my first iron. It looks like I will have to redo all my other irons again. Getting two irons to produce like this doesn't make this carved in stone as a fix. Repeating it a few more times would definitely give me a warm and fuzzy that I'm on the right track.

the iron from the new #4
I was able to lap all the pitting from the edge of the iron. There is one pit about a 1/4" away that will be a problem but it will be a while before I sharpen back down to that.

a hump
I did the first run on the 80 grit belt and had a consistent flat look. I then went to the coarse diamond stone. After 10 strokes or so I had what looked to be a hump. In my past flattenings, I would have left this and kept going up through the grits. My reasoning was I already had done the lower grit so keep going. Today I went back to the 80 grit for a few more dance steps with it. I then went back to the coarse stone and it looked better but I still didn't have the whole back width looking the same.

It took one more run on the 80 grit before I was satisfied with the coarse stone work. I had gotten a shine that filled the whole back. I didn't have this problem again using the other two diamond stones.

back flattened, working on the bevel
After 15-20 strokes I saw that I had a pretty good slant developing on the bevel. It was high going from the right to the left being low. Trying to stroke that amount of bevel square would take a busload of calories to do.

got the end square
I held the iron roughly at 90° and dragged the high end until the end was square to the side. It took a only a short time to get the bevel to zero with the back. Once I had a consistent burr, I ran it through the stones and stropped it.

yikes
I might have been pissing into the wind with this. This side is not only pitted but the rust thinned this part of the iron by half. I have extra irons for a #4 so if this doesn't work, I'll toss it.

I'm happy with the back of the #4 iron
the back of it looks better than the front - almost no pitting
The chipbreaker is underneath. I stoned the edge and stropped that too. It'll be a while before I get to the rehab of this plane and that is when I can gauge how well this iron will work.

the lever cap has a chip
Other than being cosmetically off, it won't have any effect on the plane making shavings.

pit stop for home maintenance
This is my whole house water filtering station. The first filter on the right is for dirt and sediment and the left filter is charcoal for taste.

missing a valve handle
I can service this without having to shut off the water to the whole house. There are two ball valves, one before and after the filters that isolate them from the house. The missing valve handle on the vertical pipe serves two purposes. With it shut the water has to go through the filters before being sent out to the faucets. With the filter ball valves shut, and the missing handle one open, I can work on the filters and still have water in the house.

I lost the handle years ago
It is very easy to operate this with pliers. Since I have to change the filters about every six months, I haven't bothered to get a replacement handle. Not that I haven't looked to see if they are even available.

gluing up the cabinet
The bench area is cold because I have a large cellar window at the right end of the workbench and lately this spot has been a bit cool. The tablesaw spot is warmer and closer to the furnace. Maybe tomorrow I'll get to the glue up.

still playing with it
I got the McMaster-Carr reset thing fixed. I know I changed my email address with them but the problem turned out to be they were using my old email. That is why I never got email reset messages from them.`All is well and I ordered the rods and a 10mm drill bit.

I've been having a tête à tête with Pat on this. I have tried a few of his ideas but so far there hasn't been any dancing in the streets of Mudville. He brought up the point that something is causing the fence to move but what is it. That is one thing that I've been looking at now.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Pierre, South Dakota is the only one syllable word state capitol? (Pronounced as PEER)

maintenance time......

Wed, 01/17/2018 - 1:45am
Sharpening a couple of irons was #1 on the hit parade for tonight. I've got to turn this into a habit so I can pass it on to Miles. I know that I can show him how I sharpen my tools but I think it is much more important that he learn to sharpen as needed. That means stopping whatever and wherever to sharpen once a tool is dull. Seeing me doing it will be a positive for him.

#4 plane parts
I de-rusted these parts monday night and today I cleaned them. After I cleaned them with the degreaser, I rinsed them with fresh water and dried them. These are going in an EvapoRust bath overnight. I used to just toss the parts in the EvapoRust but I found that it gets dirty and turns black. I have cleaned the parts on 3 planes before I put them in EvapoRust. I found that it stays it's greenish color and it probably works better on clean parts vice grungy ones.

highly visible line
I am leaving this as it is. It has been sanded smooth and I can't feel it with my fingertips. It will be a parts plane and a traveling to school plane so it doesn't need to look seamless. It is a solid repair and my hand will hide it as I use it.

cleaning/de-greasing the plane body
I thought this was rust
This orange colored spot is paint. I was able to scrap it off the vertical part of the brace. The only place where the japanning is sparse is on the top of this cross brace. There are 3 spots on the body where the japanning is shiny. The knob stem is one.

underneath the frog is the 2nd spot
under the tote is the 3rd spot
This is the best japanning I've seen on any plane that I've rehabbed. I haven't typed this yet but I'm guessing it is a type 5-8? If it is, it is 100+ years old and that is pretty good for it's age.

the #4 iron
Big pitted areas but I'm concerned with the edge at the bevel. I think that I will be able to lap out the little bits of pitting that are there.

stoned a flat on the back of the chipbreaker
I will finish the iron/chipbreaker after I rehabbed the plane. I don't need it until June.

this is difficult for me to sharpen
I put this on the bench 3 days ago and I sharpened and honed it tonight. On thing I haven't figured out how to do is to strop it. I did it once before and I rounded over the end. I had to sharpen it again and I haven't thought of another way to strop it yet.

Record 044 skate
Sparks had made a comment on my 044 woes and I misunderstood him. I thought he was referring to the bottom of his skate not being square. His blog post is here.

see the shiny areas at the toe
There were a lot of burrs and rough areas on the toe that I filed off. I had a few at the heel too. I also filed the sharp edge of the skate on both sides while I had the file out.

this is what Sparks was talking about
His fence (to me) didn't appear to be square to the fence rods. Visually, my skate and the fence both appear to be square to the fence rods.

back one is half a frog hair off square
front one is dead nuts
I am square off both fence rods to the skate so I'm hitting square on 3 out 4.

no movement at all now
The fence rods are loose in every single hole. When I tighten down the screws, they push the rod against the opposing wall of the hole and hold the rod tight. No wiggling anymore but is this a design feature of the plane?

I tried to buy new rods and a 10mm drill bit from McMaster-Carr but I am dead in the water with them. I emailed them 3 times requesting a password reset and I didn't get it. Both my trash and my spam folders were/are empty. On the 4th request, McMaster-Carr said that too many attempts to access my account had been done so the account was locked. I tried two more times today and I still haven't gotten a reset. I emailed them directly and I'm waiting to hear back on that.

no burr
I set it on this
So I should be able to go to my coarse stone and raise a burr. Instead what I get on the coarse stone are grind marks on the bevel  back at the heel.

my coarsest diamond stone
I reground a new bevel on the iron but still no burr. I'll set up the 80 grit runway and use that. I know I can raise a burr on that in a few strokes.

I didn't get the glue up of the cabinet done but maybe tomorrow. I am going to try and glue it up without any fasteners. I rehearsed a dry clamp up a couple of times and I think it's doable. The joints all come together easily and are tight and even.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Congress established the US Military Academy at West Point in 1802?

started the chisel cabinet.......

Tue, 01/16/2018 - 12:44am
Had to contend with my wife still sleeping at oh dark thirty after a weeks absence. She came back from her business trip on sunday night. The airport was almost empty when I got there at 1915. I've been picking up Diane at this airport for years and I don't remember ever seeing it so devoid of people. Granted it's a piss ant small airport but there were maybe 10 people total that I saw inside while I waited.

laying out for a rabbet
using the LV rabbet plane to make them
made a test rabbet in some scrap
wee bit proud
I want some proud but not this much. I fiddled with the fence and ran two more test rabbets before I was happy.

not working
I could feel the iron dulling as I made each pass. The last three gave me this. I had used my knife to cut down on the shoulder but it didn't help at this spot. The plane caught the cross plies just right here. It started out small and the last pass ripped it up badly. Put the rabbet plane aside and switched to the next noiseless operation.

took the tape off
The tote looks pretty good from this side.

looks good now
After I had sanded this side, I saw that the glue line on this side was highly visible. I lost some wood along the crack that I hadn't noticed yesterday.

glue foamed up and closed up the hole
gently
I tapped the stud through the hole from the top down. I didn't have any problems opening up the hole.

clear and clean top to bottom
see the whitish line
That is the glue line. I don't think stain will take on the gorilla glue line. Entertaining the thought of digging out the glue line and filling it with rosewood dust and hide glue.

I can make noise now
Used my electric router and a 3/4" straight bit and made a rabbet on the two sides to capture the back.

dry clamping run
I was dry clamping to look at screwing and nailing one side on the back. Then repeat it for the other side using the 90° clamping block to hold things square. The square blocks aren't working that well keeping this square. On to plan #2.

edge banding
I got this from Tico Vogt and I was going to use it for another project but that fell through. I have cherry and walnut. I'll use one of these to hide the plywood plies.

getting my size finalized
 Decided to make the cabinet size to match the footprint of the rolling dolly. The side to side is almost dead on and the front to back is about 3/4" proud.

this worked
With making the cabinet the same size as the dolly, I was able to use the smaller piece of 1/2" plywood.

top fitted
I used the off cuts from cutting the panels to size to use as spacers at the front. I sawed two of them to match the inside distance between the sides at the top back. The bottom is/was almost dead nuts where it was supposed to be. The top had toed inward. These held the sides/back square while I got an accurate measurement for the top.

it is a bit proud
I'll wait until I get the bottom done and I'll trim them at the same time.

The crappy looking piece of oak plywood I was going to use for the bottom is toast. On the top piece I had the factory edge to work off and the on the oak one I didn't. What I had with that was four hand sawn, out of square edges.

Since I was going to lunch with my friend Billy who retired last year, I decided to get a new piece of plywood. Added bonus is that Billy lives right next to a Lowes. I stopped there after I brought him home after lunch.

left the  saw set
This is set at the same cut I made for the top that I had to repeat for the bottom.

dry clamp with the top and bottom in place
The sides and back are 3/4" plywood with the top and bottom 1/2" plywood. Even dry clamped, this is a rigid and sturdy cabinet. I am changing lanes again and I'll be going with a frameless cabinet. I don't think once this is glued up that it will rack in any direction on me.

it is self squaring
I stopped here and left this as is. I am leaning towards just gluing this together without any fasteners.  I don't know if that is going to fly but I'll think about it and decide tomorrow.

got the brass adjuster knob off
Used vise grips to clamp down on the towel so I wouldn't deform the threads.

the threads are good
Other then getting some towel fibers in them but it survived the vise grip clamping.

it's bent
I cleaned up the threads and tried to run the adjuster knob up and down and no dice. It hung up on the stud no matter what I tried to do to advance the knob up/down.

I had a replacement stud
I worked the adjuster up/down on the stud easily. This is one thing that I thought I would never have to replace. I wonder how this stud got bent?. It isn't much but enough to interfere with the movement of the adjuster.

installed
I took it out because I'll be painting this and having it off will make it easier.

As of now I am planning on one large drawer and a sliding tray on the bottom with a door. I think I can get everything in the cabinet that I want too.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that in Boulder City, Nevada gambling is not legal?

got the spokeshave finished.......

Mon, 01/15/2018 - 2:39am
For my sunday morning routine I had to go a different McDonalds for breakfast. The one 3 blocks from my house is being renovated so I had to travel almost to the end of Warwick Ave to the 24hr McDonalds. At oh dark thirty there aren't a lot of places open to get something to eat in my part of the universe. It was also 17°F (-8.3°C) so I had to eat there. It's a 12 minute ride from my house so it would have been stone cold by time I got home.

I had to do some errands and for those I had to wait until 0800 for Lowes to open and then 0900 for BJ's to open. While I was waiting for Mickey's big hand to move I did my laundry and some shellac work. I still get agitated when I have to hurry up and wait but doing something helps to calm me down. Getting the Preston chamfer spokeshave done was the only thing I was able to check off in the C column.

shellac for the 78 box
I got three coats of shellac on the box on saturday before and after supper. This morning I hit the box with steel wool and by the end of the day I had put on 4 more coats.

my Lowes haul
I snagged the last bottle of rapid fuse glue. I like this glue a lot but the last couple times I've been to Lowes it wasn't on the shelf.  The gorilla glue is for gluing the broken tote on the spare parts #4. The electrician's tape is for 'clamping' the tote. This is what the Plane Collector uses so I'm trying it too. I got three 3/4" x 2 foot by 2 foot luan plywood panels for $7 and change each. The last goodie from Lowes was a pkg of 6mm washers.

it's a good fit - thumbscrew from the Preston chamfer spokeshave
It was less then a buck for a pkg of 8. For Lowes it must be a mistake as they charge ridiculous prices for hardware.

two pieces of 1/2" plywood
The plan is to use these for the top and bottom of the cabinet.

preview of the cabinet
I am thinking of trying to make a European style cabinet. After seeing this I'm not sure I want to do that. I like face frames on my cabinets. Either with or without a face frame, I will still use the 1/2" plywood as intended.

about 27" off the deck
about 32" where it will live
I will be putting a tray on the top of this. There is a shelf and drawer here that I'm taking out and putting the contents of them in the cabinet. The drawer stuff will go in the topside tray, the chisels in a drawer, and the saws will be hung on the side of the cabinet.

all of my tool boxes from under the laundry table
The height of the tallest stack of boxes is a little over 12". The bottom right hand box holds my Lee Valley rabbet plane and it is a problem.

I'll have to make a smaller box for this
this will be going away finally
I will be putting the Record 043 plow plane box in the new cabinet. That will free up some space for a couple of new woodies in my molding plane till.

gluing up the tote
I dropped the tote and that oops gave me two parts. I am trying to figure out how I can screw this stud in to keep it aligned while I glue it.

spacer
The shortest stud I have is too long to be secured with two barrel nuts. I took one of the style of nuts I don't like and drilled a through hole in it.

I think this will work
I don't want this to be my clamp; just keep the tote aligned while the glue sets.

didn't work
As the two barrel nuts were tightened the tote shifted. Good idea but the execution killed it.

I had to drill two barrel nuts to act as spacers
I put the tote aside for now and I glued it up after lunch.

9.75mm
Both rods are close in size. The other one is 9.79mm and both are well undersized for a 10mm hole.

right side hole that the rod will go in
the plane body hole
my 10mm clock bit
It's a brad point bit and I need a drill bit. I tried to order a bit from Lee Valley but they only sell metric brad point bits. I couldn't find any metric drill bits on the website or in their latest catalog.

can't hurt
It isn't a deburring tool but it's all I got. This chamfering tool is chipped so I don't mind trying it on this.

still won't exit
I got the drill bit to go a little further after I used a rat tail file to remove a burr on the screw hole on the inside of the fence rod hole. I still couldn't get the drill bit to go into the hole from this side. This is all I can do with this for now. I'll order a 10mm drill bit from McMaster-Carr when I buy new 10mm rods.

I made this box in march and didn't put on any shellac
I used to not put any finish on my shop boxes but I now do. I don't know why I didn't shellac this one back then as I had started doing it way before than.

the first 078 plane box
 I'm going to keep this for the shop. I'll put some shellac on it and find a home for it.

Preston chamfer spokeshave done

back side
side view
the before pic
 All broken down and prepped for painting. I couldn't find the one I had of as I got it.

I'm not sure yet whether I'll give this Miles or keep it for myself. The only problem I have with it is there aren't any irons for it. I've been looking for one since I got it. As a chamfering tool this works very well. The fact that it is adjustable makes it a very versatile tool so maybe I should give it to Miles. It would be a relatively safe tool for him to use even at a young age.

gluing the tote up
3 pieces of tape applied
Theses three have closed up the seam and it appears to be holding. I left it like this while I made a head break and when I came back it was still together. It had not shifted and the two parts were still tight together. I put on more tape and set it by the furnace to set up overnight.

the cabinet footprint
The size of this is 22 5/8" front to back and 24 3/4" side to side. The cabinet will be no larger than this.

a lot of damage here
I am still going to try and use this for the bottom of the cabinet. I can't work around it and it will be part of the bottom somewhere. I'll try to keep it towards the back of the cabinet.

2nd piece of plywood
It is too short. I played around with it trying to maximize it but I think I'll end up buying a new quarter sheet. Maybe I can use this to make the sliding tray and the drawer.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Pinocchio had two pets named Figaro (cat) and Cleo (goldfish)?

this is strange.......

Sun, 01/14/2018 - 2:14am
Still in a bit of shock about what I found with my plow planes, especially so with the Record 044. I got a few comments on that post and Steve made one that I looked into.  He suggested that I check the fit of the record 044 fence rod holes with a 10mm drill bit. I did that and I was surprised by what I found.

It looks to be about the same size as the fence rods
unbelievable
Fits like a hand in a glove. Almost no slop and no wiggle at all. A couple maybes here. This is a Frankenstein plow that was missing it's original rods and there were substituted from a Stanley. They came with the original plow but it had been caught in the switch from imperial to metric. Sloppy QA? I think even allowing for machining tolerances, the rods I have now are undersized.

?
The drill only goes in up to about where the screw is and no further. I didn't think to check and see if the screw captured what was in there.

won't fit
It is the same in both holes. No go, no fit, and this sucks. Why won't it fit and pass all the way through? And why can't I insert it on this side of the hole? Maybe this was used to size the rods that came with this plow?

I looked up 10mm rod stock on McMaster-Carr (another tip from Steve) and they have a lot of choices. They have chrome plated rods starting in 1 foot increments. I would like to get that but I'm not sure I have anything capable of cutting it. My second choice is 10mm A2 steel rod that I can get in a 5 1/8" long length. That should be good enough to use for fence rods. But first I'll have to fix the no passing through the hole annoyance.

both ends beveled - Stanley 078 box
I would like to write that I did this on purpose to see what it looked like. Or that I beveled it because the lid was proud of the top of the box and I didn't want to thin the lid. What happened was I wasn't paying attention and I beveled the wrong end. Ending on a positive note, I was curious about doing a double ended bevel. Now I'm no longer curious.

scraps on found on the deck to fill the gap
The left one is too thin but the bigger one is just right on this end.

it fell inside
I cut and fitted the filler but it got pushed into the box when I slid the lid in. There will be a line here from that but I think that is a better choice than this gap.

time to see if everything will fit
I will have to take this down to parade rest and put each part in the box separately.

everything fits and I can close the lid
I don't like all the parts flopping around
won't fit - needs to be trimmed a wee bit
This will keep the plane from shifting and moving in the box.

part one for the fence rod holder
I bought some more fence rods and I'll need a place in the box to keep them secure.

part #2
This piece of 1/8" plywood will be the back of the fence rod holder.

glued and cooking
I glued the holders to the 1/8" plywood and I'll glue the 1/8 plywood to the box once it has set up.

holder for the fence
The slot in the front is where the 90 on the fence is and there is a rabbet on the back. The fence has to be stowed horizontally.

the side of the box will be the back of the rabbet
glued in place
glad I checked it
The plane will only fit in the box this way with the handle insert. I had to move the fence holder over to the left.

making a holder for the depth stop
I made the round cutout at the top with my knife and a chisel. The R/L rounded curves at the bottom I also did mostly with my knife and some clean up work with a 1/4" chisel.

almost done
A little tighter on the top left than I would like but it works. A couple coats of shellac and then I can call it 100% done.

Stanley 131B came today
It's a monster size ratcheting driver. This has a lot of weight and mass to it. I could probably use it to defend myself if the zombie apocalypse happens.

I thought the Craftsman one was big
I found out that the Craftsman driver was made for Sears by Miller Falls. Still not crazy about the plastic handle but I do like it other than that.

holder I put on hold
This was for the Craftsman but I decided to wait until I got the Stanley. The Stanley ate a lot of Wheaties and is too big for it. I'll toss these parts in the scrap box.

difference in the drivers
The Stanley only came with the flat driver and the business end that holds it in the screwdriver is different than the Craftsman one.

kind of fits
The phillips bit is in the Stanley and it won't come out. I didn't try driving a screw with it.

it wiggles and moves a bit
The diameter of the phillips bit is smaller than the Stanley bit. I think the Stanley is 5/16" if I remember it right and the Craftsman is a 1/4".

not getting done today
I will have to touch up the paint some in a few spots. I lost some when I sanded the faces.

body done and the wings were last
#4 plane totes
The original one is the far left one with the middle and far right ones being my spares. The spares fit but I wont be using them. The middle one is larger than the original ones as is the right one too.

middle one
It is rosewood but I'm not sure what the finish or what is on it. It is thick, hard, and shiny. I'm betting on it being epoxy. Guess number two would be lacquer but I don't have lacquer thinner to test on this.

the last one
I had forgotten about this tote. Someone had made the hole for the barrel nut deeper than what it should have been. I don't know why that was done? They compensated for that by putting a billion washers under the nut to make up depth. I shitcanned the washers and put a wooden dowel in their place. This will probably never be used but it could work as replacement until a more suitable one is found.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that President James K Polk was the first president to be photographed?

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