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Accidental Woodworker

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The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2518125
Updated: 1 hour 46 min ago

a day from hell........

Sun, 05/07/2017 - 2:53am
Today didn't start with a lot of promise. I didn't want to get out of bed this morning to do my OT but I had signed on for 4 hours, so I had to go. It was drizzling when I went in which was better than the downpour that went on all day long on friday. When I came home it was still drizzling but the promise had been made for sunshine in the afternoon. I went to the shop and starting to work on finishing the rehab on my Stanley #2. This is where the fecal matter and the rotating wind generation machine met and shook hands.

first hiccup and it's a doozy
Look carefully at the two screw holes. The top one is wider than the bottom one. The top screw hole is wallowed out at the top. I found this after cussing up a storm trying to get that screw to turn in the hole with the frog on the bed.

frog screws
The left screw is just caught on the threads at the top. This hole is threaded ok and doesn't appear to have any damage to it. The right screw is just caught on the threads but it is almost down to the bottom. It is down over an 1/8" from the right one. Metal working is not my forte and I don't know if this is something that can even be fixed.

found a longer screw
The head on this screw isn't as big as the original but it is all that I could find in my goodie box of plane parts. I plan on filing the longer screw down a tad. The threads match but with the frog installed on the bed, this screw is too long.

filed away
I locked the screw in the jaws of vise grip pliers and filed the threads. It took two attempts before I got the fit ok.

this is a temporary fix
There is no way I can depend upon this holding up and lasting. I don't think I have one full turn worth of thread engagement. At best it will hold for while but if this is to be a daily user, it won't be able to handle the daily stress put on it.

If any metal workers out there have a fix, give a shout and leave a comment. My thought is that it should be re-threaded for the next size screw up but I don't know how to do that.

it feels secure
I have two screws in it and I'm hoping it will hold up and I can get the iron set and make some shavings with it.

my best fix
I got a full width shaving on both sides of the mouth but the right side is much thicker.  The middle shaving came out streaky and full of holes. Not like the intact full width shavings I got on the right and left. Things went south so quick from here I got blown over by the breeze.

I've already done 3
This is my fourth attempt at adjusting the frog to minimize the heaviness of the shavings on the right side. The lateral adjust did absolutely nothing to knock it down. The problem I'm having is I can't eliminate the right side shaving at all. No problems making the left side disappear, but the right side still spits out a shaving no matter where the frog is skewed in the mouth and where the lateral adjust is moved to.

right side shaving
I can get a wispy thin shaving on the right but I want the same thing on the left but it isn't happening.
hiccup #3
To get the iron to barely peek out past the mouth, I have to run the adjuster nut all they out. I don't think that the chipbreaker is the one that originally came with this plane.

&^$#@%*()(*^%#^*( plane
I skewed the frog,  incrementally right and left and I couldn't not even out the shavings coming out of the mouth. The right side spit out shavings no matter where the frog was positioned. I also could not get the left side to match what the right did.

I flipped the plane over and adjusted the iron parallel to the front of the mouth and I got the same results. The right side would always make a shaving and the left would/wouldn't. This is one series of speed bumps I have never encountered in all the planes I have rehabbed and set up for use.

my last try
I centered the frog between the two walls of the base. I adjusted the  iron parallel in the mouth by sighting it. I advanced the iron until I just saw it peeking out and I tried it. I got a teeny shaving in the middle, nothing on the left and nothing on the right. I advanced the iron a few frog hairs and I got a shaving on the right, a little in the middle and nothing on the left. By the time I advanced the iron to get a shaving on the left, the right side one was an inch thick. Well maybe not an inch thick but it was easily 3-4 times thicker than the left.

thin shaving on the right
a little from the middle
get thicker on the right and still nothing on the left
is the sole twisted?
I eyeballed this and there appeared to be a small amount of twist to the sole. Sighting down it from the heel, the heel right and the toe left were 1 frog hair high. Is this enough to cause my problem?

what does the 80 grit runway say?
I took 6 strokes back and forth on the sandpaper and stopped to look at my lines.

I'd say there isn't any twist
I seem to have a slight low spot behind the mouth on the right side.

ten strokes
All the the lines are gone and the scratch pattern is even and consistent end to end and side to side.

double triple checking myself again
 Made some lines to do one more run and see if I can repeat.

same pattern
Tried the dance steps with the shavings again and got the exact same crappola.  There is something obvious here that I must be missing. I have tried everything that I know and have used on previous planes but none of that is working.

it's a helicopter blade
I broke out my 12" precision straight edge to check the diagonals and I found this. According to this, I have a hump and I can see daylight at the heel and toe.

it isn't rocking no matter where I try it
I usually don't get discouraged much. In fact I usually get pissed and turn into a raging nut job who would make someone going postal looking like they were Mickey Mouse. Here I got discouraged. I spent a lot of my OT dollars on this plane and it so far, it is a piece of crap. The wallowed out screw hole in the frog really pisses me off and now that I can't adjust the plane to take an even shaving pushed me over the edge. Just had a thought - maybe having only that one screw really holding the frog is the cause of misery. Maybe that extra long one is exerting too much force on the that side? Something to check out tomorrow.

The last tool I bought from Patrick Leach was a Stanley 10 1/2 and that had a broken cheek that had been repaired (not mentioned in the write up). Now I have this #2 that can only be used for a paperweight. And an expensive paper weight at that.

I quit the shop after this. I was so damn bummed out by this experience that I didn't belong in it. I know I would have made one mistake after another all day long if I worked on something else. I thought I would finish up watching Richard Maguire's sharpening videos but I fell asleep at my desk. The video played but I don't even remember the opening credits.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many flowers are stamped on each side of an OREO cookie?
answer - 12 and each one has 4 petals

3 thread post......

Sat, 05/06/2017 - 1:19am
I had to slim this post down picture wise. I got three different topics and each ate up a lot of space on the memory card. I thought of putting it out as two posts but I thinned the pic count instead. This is what I did tonight in the shop and when I'm in my rocking chair I'm going to need all memory refreshers I can get.

I am little flush right now
My bills are all way ahead now and I got a pocketful of OT dollars waiting to be spent. I had ordered these two from LV last week and they came today. This morning while surfing my usual tool sites I came across a Stanley 5 1/2, type 11, for a C-note. I had the money so I pulled the trigger on it. I should get that next week.

not a toy - this is a fully functional teeny router plane
closed and open throat
Haven't tried it yet but it looked like I can put the iron 180 and use as an open throat router.

why I got it
I want to start using stopped dadoes for my box bottoms. The router iron is the same size as the 1/8" iron in the Record 043. It's a good match and I'll be able to get consistent groove depths with it.

LV tool buy #2

cabinetmakers screwdrivers for screw sizes #4 to #10
small Grace screwdrivers
These two have broken tips. The other Grace screwdrivers I have I don't have any complaints with. These I do. The tips broke off with very little force. I will use the other Grace screwdrivers for other things and I'll use the Chestnut ones for driving screws only.

tapered bulb shape
Good shape that fits the hand well and it has a presence. Even the smallest driver has some heft to it.. These won't be rolling off the bench on me.

U shaped tips
comes with a burnisher
The instructions show how to use this to roll a burr on the tip of the U. This increases the grip of it in the slot of the screw.

bottom to top #4, #6, and a #8vscrew
Perfect fit of the U tip in each screw. The last driver is for #10 screws of which I have none. And the number 10 driver won't fit in the #8 screw slot. I bought this mostly because 99.9% of screws I use are #4 to #8.

#2 plane parts out of the citrus bath
Both sides of the iron have a black spot that didn't rinse off nor could I rub it off with my finger.

found the S casting Pat mentioned
I was looking for this on the plane body. That has no markings at all.

holding the screws while I wire brushed them
the black spots sanded off easily
flattening the back
I rounded the corners on the coarsest diamond and went to the next one after I felt a burr.

back done up to 8K and I still have a burr

burr is gone
When I first read of this stropping of an iron on your palm, I thought it was a ludicrous idea. My opinion of that has changed and I strop on my palm all the time now.

prepping the chipbreaker
 I stoned the leading edge and then stropped it.

even side to side
needs a bit of shine
I forgot to take this off and clean it last night. This is the before pic.

tote and knob brass caps
I do like my brass to be shiny so I'll do these when I do the brass adjuster nob. This is the before pic.

These are the first tote and knob studs that I have seen this clean. I have a boatload of plane rehabs under my belt and these are the first that have not been rusted threaded end to threaded end.

had to stop here
I need the brass bits before I can put the plane back together. While those were soaking I oiled all the parts down.

the after pic
the brass cleaner
used this for years in the kitchen
Jonathan (benchblog.com//) blogged about cleaning brass with this and it does an awesome job. I put some water and Bar Keeps in the container and let the parts soak for about ten minutes. Pulled them out and scrubbed them with an old toothbrush.

the after pic
I have never gotten any brass adjuster knobs this clean with any other method. I used a bazillion different ones and none match the cleaning and shining power of Bar Keeps Best Friend .

plane #1 (last thread)
This is the shaving jam left over from the last tryout.

leading edge looks like crap
Right around where the greatest jamming occurs, is where the most damage to the mouth is. Not big chips missing but the edge is rough and not smooth like the sole is.

checking the  iron for twist
I don't see any twist in the back of the iron.

this tip is not sharpened and is misshaped
I looked at this with a magnifying glass and it needs some work to reshape and sharpen it.

another problem area
Where the pine build up is on the bevel, there is a burr. There shouldn't be one there and the rest of the profile is burr free too.

marked the area where I can feel a burr
I am going to sharpen this again and concentrate on the bottom bevel and the circular one.

sharpened up to 1200 and stropped
I did the small left side bevel by hand on the stones.

ready to road test again
felt a difference
The plane was easier to push and my shavings looked better this time. Thin and almost continuous end to end. It still jammed but I was able to make shavings for a longer time than I did yesterday. The profile looks pretty good for what I was able to do before the jam shut me down.

profile turned to liquid fecal matter
I started doing my tap and try dance steps and I ended up with this. The profile went south because I think I was taking a heavier shaving and I did not keep my original plane orientation on the last 4 end to end runs I did. The cutter seems to be taking a shaving on the front edge which it wasn't doing yesterday.

This is as far as I can go with this test piece of wood. I also think that this plane isn't made for 3/4" stock neither.  I got the sharp part of the iron figured out and the jamming has me stymied big time. I don't have more stock to sacrifice for testing for I'll put this aside for now. I'll pick this back up later and put a win in my column.

Tomorrow the plan is to finish rehabbing the #2, make a frame for my wife's newly awarded genealogy certificate, and do some work on the bookcase.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Which US President served as a hangman twice?
answer - Grover Cleveland while serving as a sheriff in Buffalo NY in the 1870's

plane #3 0 , me 1........

Fri, 05/05/2017 - 12:24am
Before I get to plane #3, a thought or two on collecting. First and foremost I don't consider myself a collector of anything. And I consider a collector is someone who doesn't use what he/she collects. I might be considered a collector of  books, old hand tools, and old tool catalogs, but I use them. Today I got a 1890 vintage #2 Stanley smoothing plane. Do I need a #2 smoother? No, not really but when I saw it being offered up on Patrick Leach's may tool list, I bought it.

I think I crossed the line in the sand with this plane and became a collector of Stanley bench planes. I don't see myself ever using this plane but I could for small boxes etc. Of the bench planes I only need the #1, 5 1/4, 5 1/2, and the #10 to complete my bench plane collection. Of these four remaining planes, I already know that I will not be getting the #1. To me it is not worth the $$$ it commands.  I've used the LN #1 and to me it is a toy that I don't see it being a viable tool for use in my woodworking. If I do get a #1 it will probably be a LN or a Wood River one.

With that banished from the wish list, I can also eliminate the 5 1/4. I have never used nor seen one of these planes. It isn't in the toy category but I think there are other planes that are a better choice. One nagging thought is to get it for my grandson to use. I've read that is was a school boy use plane.

The 5 1/2 jack is another up in the air plane. I don't use the #5 I have now that much and I don't think the 5 1/2 will change that one way or the other. The #10 is another plane like the 5 1/2, nice to have to say my collection is complete and the collecting is done.

My collection as it is now - #2, #3, #4, #4 1/2, #5, #6, #7, #8, and #10 1/2. I don't know what is 'the' bench plane collection is supposed have but I'm shooting for these with mine.

waiting for me on my front step
not as small as I envisioned it
Patrick says that this is from 1890 so this little plane has lived now in 3 centuries. The rear tote is complete and damage free.  The whole plane looks to be clean, rust free, and in remarkable shape for something this old.

side be side with a #3
rear end shot
You can really see the difference in the two from the rear.

rough grind on the iron and lots of life left to it
road test was a bit bumpy
Setting the iron took a bit of doing. About half of my planes have a reverse threading on the iron advance/retraction. It is a bit a chore trying to remember which is which. I was able to get some shavings in spite of the rough looking bevel.

a small chip is missing  on the front knob

all these are taking a citrus bath overnight
rather delicate looking frame
I looked this over very carefully checking for any cracks or other boo-boos and I found none.

plane #3 iron out of the citrus bath
The black stuff on this was rust leaving a lot of pitting on this side. But the bevel and the immediate area around it is clear.

the back is pit free
a couple of strokes on 120
The back of this looks pretty good after a few strokes on sandpaper. There don't appear to be any hollows or humps I'll have to deal with.

back flattened on the coarsest diamond stone
the two outside bevels are done too
While I flattened the back up through the grits, I sharpened the two outside bevels at the same time. All that is left to be done is the center circular part.

back done up to 8K
there is a burr

I checked for and felt a burr at each step of the way. I wasn't expecting one on the circular one but I got it here too. The lower the grit, the bigger the burr. When I got to 1200 grit, it was hard to feel the burr but I did have one there.

perfect fit with my biggest round strop
ready to road test plane #3
setting the iron
I set the iron so that it projected evenly and the iron matched the profile of the sole.

nice pile of shavings
sneaking up on the cut
It took a lot of tap and trying before I made these shavings. With a sharp iron and a low set iron, making shavings is a pleasure. They spill out of the mouth like ripples across a pond. Finding that sweet spot takes a little doing. My sweet spot was found after the 11th tap of the iron and I made a complete profile shaving end to end.

this plane is not meant for 3/4" stock
I got this plane tamed for the time being. I like this profile a lot more than the profile on plane #1. In fact now that I have gotten a partial profile molded with #1, I am not liking it that much. Together with the problems I'm having tuning it may spell it's doom. I will make that decision after I have fixed the jamming problem and planed a complete profile.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who designed the original 1936 Volkswagen?
answer - Ferdinand Porsche

rematch with plane #1......

Thu, 05/04/2017 - 12:32am
Before I got to plane #1 I had to go pick up my new peeper helpers. My cataracts changed my prescription so I had to get new ones. When I got to the eye glass place I was 4th in line. As in there were 4 older ladies and one younger one ahead of me. Not a good feeling. I watched one lady putting on and taking off the same 3 glasses the entire time I was there. Each time she did it she had to get her mother's opinion on it. The lady being waited on was almost done and she paid and left.

That left me thinking I was 3 people back. The two ahead of me were picking up glasses, they tried them on, looked at them in the mirror, and left. Now I was down to the mother and daughter going back and forth on the growing pile of glasses they were trying on. I felt like I was going to be here until saturday afternoon before she decided on a pair of glasses.

I had already been waiting about 15 minutes which was way beyond what I will normally endure. I was ready to leave and come back another day because I didn't see that lady being able to pick out a pair of glasses today. As luck would have it, the lady running the eye glass shop asked me if I was picking up or ordering. I said I got a call my glasses were ready.

She waited on me first and that made me smile from ear to ear. I felt sorry for her as I was leaving. There isn't enough money in this world that could have enticed me to wait that lady and her mother.

plane #3 from yesterday
This plane is going to be another fun one to figure out. I know right away that is not sharp in spite of smooth what was planed looks.

less then half of the profile showed up
stopped after trying two tries
The one on the right I did first and I don't think I was holding the plane at the right angle. That is based the 'rabbet' being angled down and inwards. I saw that after the first run and I did improve on that with the second one. The second one was also a lot harder to plane and I didn't get as much as I did on run #1.

I put this iron in some citrus acid to soak overnight. Tomorrow I'll clean it up, sharpen and hone it, and do battle with it on the rematch.

throat on plane #3
This plane didn't jam at all on me. Bob had left some comments on things to check and I started here. This iron is tight against the mortise wall and flat and tight on the bed. The iron is dull so I'll have to wait to see how well it performs after it is sharpened.

plane #1
 There is a bit of roughness on the left side and the leading edge of the mouth also has some roughness to it. The iron is tight against the wall and the it feels like it is flat and tight to the bed.  The opening on this mouth looks close to what plane #3 is.

small amount of rocking of the iron here
no rocking of this iron anywhere
iron out and checking the wedge - plane #1
The wedge is tight on the bed from the toe to the heel. From what I can see of it, it appears to be a good fit.

plane #3 wedge
It is a good fit also and it is a very snug side to side too.  The toe of the wedge on this one extends further down closer to the mouth. Plane #1 didn't go down as close to the mouth.

possible problem
This was one of the things I thought might be problem. There is a chip missing at the bottom.

this side looks good
This is the edge that should be catching and deflecting the shavings.

wedges side by side
I was expecting the wedges to look more alike. The wedge on plane #3 looks better able to eject shavings then it's neighbor.

black stuff turned out to be rust
We'll see what this looks like tomorrow after it's citrus acid bath.

checking the iron on plane #1
The iron is not moving here at all. I thought maybe it might have been flexing and allowing shavings to jam it up. I can not detect any flexing of the iron here at the mouth. It feels secure so something else is causing the jamming.

Bob said the iron was too rank
I agree with Bob on that. My shavings were too thick and coarse. The profile of the iron matches the plane sole pretty good. I played with this for a few minutes getting the iron projection as low as I could and still have it make shavings.

gripping the plane
My left hand grips the toe of the plane forward of the mouth.

my right hand grips the heel aft of the mouth
Check on the hands interfering with the shavings being ejected.

6 runs down a piece of pine
I did 6 full stroke runs and I didn't get any jamming. The reason I didn't get jamming was because the far left part of the plane wasn't touching the wood making a shaving.

thinner but still too thick
I made a few more taps on the heel to drop the iron a few more frog hairs and tried it again on piece of clear pine.

end to end shaving
I'm making some progress now .

jamming on the far left
I'm even making progress here. The jamming is only on what looks the quirk on this iron. Maybe I altered the profile of it when I sharpened it yesterday. I am making better shavings and making more of the profile today than yesterday.

the profile looks like a squished 'S'
This profile looks exactly like my casing profile molder. 

now the jamming across the mouth is coming back

shavings are better before it jams
this may be slightly off
The ridge on this point is not lining up with the ridge on the profile. I'll have to look at this with some magnification to see exactly what this looks like.

where it should be cutting
I am having trouble visualizing this but it seems that pointy thing should be making something here. Shouldn't it? There is also not much of a profile here but this is where 99% of the jamming is happening. Maybe the shavings are sliding over from the right and doing the jamming of the left?

extra ridge
This was caused by me not maintaining the same plane orientation as I planed this.

I'm good up to this point
I think I lowered the plane down and away from the edge a few degrees. It doesn't take a lot to turn a planed profile into kindling. This is where not having a fence to register causes these problems.

I'm calling the rematch a draw. I definitely made some improvements in trying to make this profile. Everything I learned here through trial and error will stick with me and help with my other molders.

one coat of shellac
I'm done with this. I duplicated the color and now the shine. More shellac will raise a shine but I don't need to prove that to myself.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was Henry Ford's first mass produced car?
answer - the model N which sold for $500 in 1906 (the model T came out in Oct 1908)

molding planes 3, me zero.........

Wed, 05/03/2017 - 1:24am
I usually leave work at 1525 which puts me 5 minutes ahead of the hospitals and factories being let go. Tonight I didn't leave until after 1530. I was prepping my mountain of papers for tomorrow and lost track of the time. This oversight on my part had it's consequences. If I leave on time, I get home in less than 15 minutes. Tonight is was almost 30.

I had two pit stops to make too. One was at the post office which was an in and out affair. There was no one in there but me and the mail clerk. Mailed out the planes and I'm sure he'll be surprised when he opens it up. After the quickie stop I headed for Wally World which is next door to the post office.

I wanted to get some hi gloss lacquer but they had none. The second thing on the list was soap and ice cream for the wife. Got that, and stood in line seemingly forever before I got out of there. Needless to say, shop time was severely curtailed. No bookcase work so I decided to beat myself up and try a couple of molding planes out. I have tried these before without any success but maybe tonight it would be different.

little bit of shine

Duh it's satin you maroon

 Why I wanted to get gloss but Wally World let me down again.

I'll try a couple of coats of shellac
I've tried this one before
I have since learned that this is not an easy plane to learn to use because it has no fence to guide you. It didn't stop me from trying it and feeling like my IQ was 10 points less than my shoe size. I really like the profile and I am brain dead when it comes to things like this. I will figure it out because I can be more stubborn than a mule.

chip missing on the toe
This has no effect on the plane making a profile.

This partial profile is a huge improvement over my previous attempts. On this one I have almost the full profile where as on past outings I had never gotten past a small round over on the edge.

the mouth jams real quick
I tried this a few more times and I got the same crap. I made a few shavings and the mouth would jam shut. Even the mouth jamming is an improvement. On my last attempts I had problems setting the iron but with my work with my other molding planes, those experiences helped setting it here a lot.

plane tryout #2
I bought a lot of 7 planes to get this one. I had less success with this one then I did with the one above. This plane has a fence so in that respect it is a bit easier to start. I got nothing with this but a few teeny curls the last time I tried this.

partial success
My previous uses with the beading planes is paying dividends. I can feel that the plane iron is sharp and I can tell that I have the depth of the iron just about right. I got half of the profile but the other half is being elusive.

second piece of practice wood
This is the one downside to learning how to use molding planes. You waste a lot of wood and of course you can't use crap wood neither. Molders work so much better on clean, clear, and straight grained woods.

shiny spot
The glazing is caused by the boxing on the plane. I think it should be cutting which means the iron isn't set deep enough.

I got some iron peeking out on the boxing so it should be cutting and making shavings but it isn't.

the bead is the other half
I have made progress with this molder. I got half of the profile to mold on a piece of wood. Now I have to get the other half which has the bead and the quirk.

what I got
This half is clean and crisp, end to end. The first piece of wood I tried this on came out just as good.

went back to plane #1
The iron felt sharp and it can't hurt to touch it up. Instead going nutso and being blinded by a shiny bevel, I concentrated my efforts at the bottom of the bevel where the action happens. I went up to 1200 grit and stropped the bejesus out of it.

couple of things caught my attention
The first is I could feel an uptick in the ease the shavings were being taken. Sharp does up the game a notch or two. The second is the iron is a tad to deep. The shavings are too thick and coarse looking. The last thing is I am planing against the grain. I thought I had eyeballed this for grain orientation but I obviously was OTL on that. And of course, the mouth jammed several times doing this.

I flipped the piece 180 and tried it again. I reset the iron to take a much light cut. That helped a lot and I got thinner shavings but the mouth continued to jam. It was plane one stroke and clear the mouth. Plane one shaving and clear the mouth. I must have done those dance steps 10 times to get this profile here.

from my last run
The jamming is especially bad on the far side of the plane by my finger. I didn't get any jamming on the near side at all.

the shavings have no where to go
 The mouth is kind of tight at that corner so I can see why it jamming there. What I can't understand is the why. I can't believe a plane was made with this hindrance that effects it to the point of being unusable. Even though I got most of the profile, I may be doing something wrong technique wise such as how I am holding it. It has no fence to register on and the spring lines on it I'm not too sure about. They could be for plane orientation or they may be the layout lines for the profile.

I am encouraged by the results I got with both of these planes tonight. It is an improvement over my last outing. It is just a matter of time before I either luck into the right way or I toss them in the fireplace. Since I don't have a fireplace, I will keep tying to luck into it.

plane #3
This is similar to the first plane's profile I used. This is one of the first molding planes I got. I played some sharpening the bevel but I remember mostly concentrating on removing the rust on this one. I tried to make shavings with this when I first got it and made nothing. Not even a speck of wood dust. I'll try this one tomorrow.

plane #3 profile

profile of plane #1
This is it for the molding plane fun for tonight. I wish I had the time to try out the 3rd plane but there is no time left.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What are American dollars printed on?
answer - not paper, it's a fabric of a cotton linen blend

a YUK day......

Tue, 05/02/2017 - 12:15am
Every woodworker on the planet has to deal with one of these days. It has nothing to do with how skillful a woodworker you are or whether you are an amateur or a professional. Everyone has to deal with this. You can put it off but eventually you have to give in to it. Today was my turn in the barrel and to pony up to it.

What is it? I had to stop and clean up the shop. I meant to do it last week, and then on saturday, and it was a for sure event on sunday.  I couldn't get around in the shop anymore and I was starting to lose things again. I started before 1600 and got done at 1630.  Not completely cleaned up but I can tell the color of the deck now. Scratch getting the bookcase shelf pin jig made.

color is good, the shine sucks
I went back and read my blog posts on making these but I couldn't tell what I used for a finish. I used lacquer and shellac but I didn't write which type of lacquer I used or if I used shellac. I will put on a few more coats to see if the shine raises at all.

I haven't moved this yet and I am already feeling the pain. Did I mention this weighs more than 2 battleships? With a full combat load?And a full ship's complement?

this is it's home
No matter which way I go around the tablesaw, I have an obstacle course to go through. I chose the left side because I just had to move a couple of boxes and a laundry basket going that route.

didn't want to navigate through this
Right now the shitcan is empty but in 30 minutes it was overflowing.

one of the smartest moves I made
I used to bend down onto my knees with a fox tail and dust pan to sweep this up. That wasn't too bad but defying gravity getting back up is a bitch. And the little broom that comes with this is great for getting into all the nooks crannies without having to move a lot of crap first.

finally got to do some woodworking
Not much in the way of woodworking but at least it was something.  While the hide glue was warming up, I trimmed and fitted the molding between the corbels.

All these moldings are a friction fit. I think that and the hide glue will be sufficient for this.

not easy to do this
I have run out of space for my molding planes and I picked 4 duplicates that I am giving away to a friend. These four freed up enough space for the side bead planes I just bought.

I just have to find the address and this will be ready to go to the post office on wednesday. Tomorrow I should be able to start the shelf pin jig for the bookcase.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many World Series did Babe Ruth play in during his 22 year career?
answer - 10 (won 7)

plate rail progress.......

Mon, 05/01/2017 - 1:26am
I got the plate rail done as far as I can for now. After my wife wallpapers the wall it is going on, I can scribe and fit the parts to the existing conditions. I would like to put it up in one piece but I have moldings on the both side stopping that. Now that I've taken that as far as I can, I can turn my limited attention span to the bookcase.

my best looking lilac bush
Yesterday this was all buds and today I got this surprise. I'll have to prune this down because the electrical feed is inches above it.

mostly buds still - no lilac scent yet neither
the fence lilac
This is a different variety but I don't know which one this is or the others.

the garage lilac
This had almost no flowers last year and not much in the green department too.

my problem lilac
I cut 5 main dead branches off this and I pruned all the small dead growth too. I don't think this one is going to improve. I'll give it one more year to see how it does. If it thrives I'll keep it. If not I'll dig it up and plant a new one.

I didn't forget this
I don't know how many cycles I put this through but it was more the 6 and probably around 9-10. It also has one spray coat of lacquer on it. Got a ways to go before it looks like the cell phone holder. This will take a few coats of lacquer before it starts looking like that.

found a use for the molding I sawed too short
I sawed the molding down so just the profile was left.

where it is going
I am going to put it inbetween the corbels. It will make a shadow line there and hide the butt joint between the apron and the plate rail.

straightening out the board
This board will give up the two new moldings that will replace the ones I sawed short. I will straighten out both edges, mold my profile, and saw it out. And I will use the apron this time to get the length.

opposite edge flat in the middle over to the left end

blurry pic hiding a gap at the right end
The irght side falls away almost 1/4" on this side. This I can't ignore or hide.

had to get inventive
The two dog holes by the vise I plugged, so I used this board to make up for that loss. I tried doing it in the vise but the ends were too floppy. I would rather do it between the dogs anyways.

no bead this time
checking the new molding length against the apron
I am going to put a shallow 1/8" deep dado in the aprons for the corbels. I will make two saw cuts and plow out the waste with the router plane.

bandsawed the last corble
I made 15 corbels. That gives me one for an oops or a mind fart.

the hernia buster
I don't use this that often and mostly because it weighs as much as two battleships. I have to struggle to take this off the shelf and put it on the tablesaw. I did it here because I have 14 corbels to do. I did the first one with a spokeshave and I intended to do all of them with the spokeshave. After the first one was done, I took a break and then setup the disc sander.

one wall sawn on both aprons
routing the dadoes
I plowed out the waste with the board held against the dogs. I plowed from the far side to the middle, flipped the board 180 and repeated. It took me 4 dance steps to get this to depth.

self supporting
I am gluing and screwing the corbels to the apron so a fit like this isn't entirely necessary but it was what I was shooting for.

9 self supporting and 5 not self supporting
Not a good percentage but I'll take it. These 3 and 2 from the other apron fit good but they won't support themselves.

checking stud locations
From the nail holes I measured to make sure that none of the dadoes ended up on a stud location. One is less than a 1/4" away and all the rest aren't a problem.

using hide glue

2 #6 screws in from the back on each one
need to glue this one
Fitting and gluing each one inbetween the corbels with hide glue only.

just enough
I have just enough to fill in this last corbel. The small piece left over will go at the end and another piece at the big centerline corbel.

the other small piece goes here
I like this and I think it dresses it up without over doing it
teeny piece needed here
ran out of molding
This is it for the second apron. This will do the ends but I am one corbel bay short. I'll have to make another piece for this.

taped it to the apron so I won't lose it
two new pieces
The one on the right is almost a perfect match. The one on the right is thinner and I can see it this way and laying flat. I'll keep it because I might have to use it. It should be blend in and not be noticeable at all once it's painted.

dry run
I didn't think this one all the way through. It will be symmetrical but bit strange to my eye.

better spot
In hindsight, I should have put the first corbel here. It would not be so close to the large center corbel and it would hide the butt joint between the the plate rail and the clock shelf. It'll be a conversation piece now because I'm not making a new apron assembly.

This is as far as I can go with this for now. The dry fit looks good and my wife likes it which is the only thing that matters to me.

broken 3 prong plug
Electrical connector part is good but the screw posts are toast. 2 are broken off and the third one is cracked. I made sure I bought a different style at HD this morning. I made a road trip there to get a sprayer. When I got there I found out that I had to order one, have it delivered to the store, and then pick it up. Not what I wanted so I ordered it from Amazon prime.

I didn't come home empty handed, I bought the plug and a new 4x4 1/4" sheet of plywood. Where my wife plans to put the bookcase, the top half of the back will be visible. Can't use the paper backed underlayment now. I'll keep it and use it for something else.

new plug
It works. I turned the router off and on several times and repeated it several times. The intermittent power I was getting yesterday wasn't happening today. It will probably be a long time, if ever, before this gets used again.

two coats of lacquer
I think the color is a good match but the shine is lacking. That is also killing the two of these looking the same. I'll put on a few more coats of lacquer and see what shakes out.

3rd coat just sprayed
With it wet and shine of it matches the cell phone holder color very well. This is encouraging.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first relief pitcher inducted into the Baseball Hall of Fame?
answer - Hoyt Wilhelm in 1985

one thing led to another.......

Sun, 04/30/2017 - 2:45am
I had planned on having a short day in the shop today and just rest and vegetate. That didn't happen because I was going to stop after doing this but I wanted to see that. So I did that and then I wanted to see how that looked. 4 hours later, I stopped looking to see what the next thing would look like.

first speed bump
 All I had planned on doing today was to get the plate grooves done. I looked for a #1 round (or a pair) and had no luck. I am not ready to pull the trigger on a harlequin H&R set yet. So I broke out the D handle Porter Cable router. It was a bit intermittent doing the first groove power wise and completely quit when starting the second groove. It would not power up at all. Playing Mr Electrician wasn't in my top ten things to do today.

At first I thought it was the 3 prong going into the top of the D handle because I had two loose screws. I took that apart and all the wire to metal connections were still together, tight, and debris free. The screws were loose because the plastic holes for them were all cracked and two were busted. I'll have to put a new plug on this but it wasn't the problem.

I really didn't want to dig into the switch in the D handle but there wasn't anything else left to check. There is a switch in it that works just like a light switch and they are rarely not hard wired. Which means replacing it if it is toast, can be a Royal Squared PITA. I also was facing another problem with the switch. The router is 25 years old and PC no longer makes it and probably has zero parts support for it.

Lucky me because the switch checked out ok. Maybe I had a sticky contact inside of and my playing around with it loosened it up. If this had not worked I could have bypassed the switch by plugging the router into an extension cord. BTW the switch is hard wired.

got one done
 Rather then do one groove and remove that one and put the other one in dogs, I decided to do all 3 grooves on one and then use that one to set the grooves on the second one. I also changed the distance between all three. The first one is 1" OC from the back but the second one is greater than 1 1/2". It looked too close so I moved it further away. I did it by eye and didn't measure it.

had to raise it up
The fence on the router is wide and with one piece of scrap I couldn't clear the bench. With two pieces I got my needed clearance.

should have done this before
When I was working on this at the bench, I had it on edge and noticed that it had a hump. I had a hump on the other plate rail shelf too that I had to remove. I should have done this after the rough cut out and before I did the grooving.

double checking my wall clock shelf
I had checked this already by laying it on top of the clock and it looked ok.

not the clock but an example
The clock is on top of the big bookcase in the living room and I didn't take it down to check it. This is kind of what it looked like then. I don't want to make the shelf bigger but maybe I can get away with a smaller radius on the corners.

this is ok
I wasn't lazy this time when I checked it. Now I know that it fits and I don't have to make a another one.

squaring up the ends that butt into the clock shelf
biscuit jointed
Finally knowing how to set this biscuit jointer made making this a no brainer almost. The biscuit is for keeping this butt joint even and flush.

had humps on the aprons too
I had to use my 6' level as a straight edge on these.

oops, hiccup #2
Had a mind fart on measuring this molding. I did make it longer than the plate rail but they are supposed to be longer than the apron. It is a over 6" too short there.

on to other things
I'll have to make two more moldings so I moved on to working on the corbels. This edge is slightly out of square and I fixed that before checking the fit of the corbels.

Of the 3 corbels I made as patterns, this is the only one that fits. The next batter up is figuring out how many corbels I need.

3 wasn't a charm here, 4 was
The first three I used, at their maximum spread, were laying out too many. I wanted 5 or seven corbels on each apron. With the center one under the clock that would give me total of 11 or 15.

in case #4 didn't work out
first step
I want the outside edge of end corbels to be 1 1/2" from the end. I stepped off the dividers until I could go from this mark to ......

to this mark at 1 1/2"
I ended up with 7 corbels.

second step run
Now that I know how many corbels I need, this second run is to mark the two sides of the corbels.  I marked 3/4" from the first mark, closed the dividers up a couple of frog hairs and stepped off again. Stepping off from the second mark will give the left side of each corbel.

it took two runs
This is where I ended up after the first run. One more adjustment and I stepped off from the left and ended up right on it. I then a laid out 3/4" from here and stepped off going left to right and ended up on the right 1 1/2" mark. I now had both sides of each corbel. I used this apron to lay out the other one.

mark for outside corbel on the left
mark for the corbel on the right
3/4" mark from the outside line
By stepping from here to the right will lay out the right side of each corbel and I should end on the right 1 1/2" mark.

first R/L wall
ended up on the 1 1/2" mark
I now have 7 corbels laid out and equally spaced between the two 1 1/2" end marks.

Even if I don't dado these, this is getting painted which will cover up my pencil lines. This edge isn't going to be painted so I marked them here.

new molding idea
molding idea #2
I really like how this looks
this is history
I finally quit here and I can wait until tomorrow to see how the new molding looks. I'll have to make it first.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
When did the New York Stock Exchange have it's first million share day?
answer - in 1886 (it was started in 1792 with 11 investors)

two beaders.......

Sat, 04/29/2017 - 1:03am
One of my cats isn't feeling so well. I think it is the female but I can't sure. One of them is letting go and leaving diarrhea all over the bathroom floor. At least it is being contained in one room and if it keeps up I'll have to take them to the Vets for a check up. This happened last year and it lasted for two days and didn't happen again until the surprise I got today. Had to clean and disinfect that present before heading for the workshop.

Matt from the Tiny Workshop asked if I would a side by side with the two different named beading planes I have. Here is the picture show.

from earlier in the week
 I planed astragals, side beads, and beading plane profiles on these edges to compare them. I picked the 1/4" side bead plane to use on the plate rail.

the two test planes
The side bead plane is on the left and the beading plane is on the right. These are the two names that came with them when I bought them. Both are 3/8" and the dimensions of the plane bodies are similar. The only obvious difference is the orientation of the boxing on the two. Both planes make the same bead in the end. (PS edit - the plane on the left is London made and the right one is American made)

3/8 side bead plane

3/8 beading plane
With the exception of the slight rabbet on the side bead profile, these beads are indistinguishable.

side bead plane on the edge
A beading plane needs a 90° corner to make it's profile. As long as the outside of the plane opposite you has real estate, it will make one.

side bead plane profile on two edges
beading plane profile on two edges
I can't see a difference in the two profiles.

beading plane on top and side bead on the bottom
the groove is determined by the iron
The width of the inboard groove of the bead is determined by the bevel width on the escapement side of the plane. (I think this is called the quirk)

side bead plane
I tried to plane a bead at an angle and I did get a partial bead. I was able to fix and get an acceptable looking bead out of it by planing it with the molder held vertically.

shaving the rabbet off the side bead
the shape and size of the bead didn't change
planing off the face rabbet from the side bead
this bead profile didn't change neither
which plane made which profile?
This convinces me that it doesn't matter which plane makes the bead. Both are easy to setup and use and I couldn't tell any differences in the use of them. One thing I do know is that a fully boxed beading plane is much better than one with a strip of boxing on the outside of the bead. A fully boxed one will wear better and last longer. But if either plane has a straight body and a tight mouth it will make a good user.

round over on the plate rail
I planed the 45 and the 22.5 with the 4 1/2. I cleaned that up and finessed it round with the block plane. I get a much better round over when I use the block plane vise the larger 4 1/2. I find it difficult to see what I am planing with the 4 1/2 and I don't get an even round over. I usually get a quasi looking bullnose thing.

you can tell that this is a half circle
I found out that my wife not only likes the hand made look, she can tell a machined and hand tool worked surface apart. I guess something rubbed off me on to her over the last 20 years or so.

the right side plate rail
The piece above is the left side plate rail and this one is the right side. Both of these butt into the clock shelf. This notch is for the plate rail to fit into the china cupboard molding on this end.

I just have to rout the plate grooves, make a bunch of corbels, dry fit it together, and paint it. I can't put it in place until my wife wallpapers and paints.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
If you are suffering from epistaxis, what is your condition?
answer - you are having a nosebleed

side beaders ready......

Thu, 04/27/2017 - 11:23pm
I got the irons for both of my new beading planes done tonight and I had expected to do more. Doing the irons took longer than I thought even though I didn't run over any speed bumps. I have also formed an opinion on the side beads and beading planes. I think that they are one in the same. They both make beads and they are just made differently to accomplish the same task. Kind of like a wooden plane and a transitional wooden plane, both will make shavings but they don't look the same.

My thoughts on the slight rabbet/shoulder the side bead planes make is this. After you have planed the bead, you plane that rabbet/shoulder off flush with the edge. The only thing I could find on the two planes on line is that the name was used interchangeably. Even though the side bead 'bead' is slightly angled the bead it makes is the same as a beading plane. Mystery solved for me, at least for the time being.

first batter again
Lightly sanded these before I put on the tannic acid.

tannic acid applied
This looks good when the tannic acid first does on and it has a deep, rich black color. As it dries it fades a bit. It tends to look a little washed out when fully dry but I am going to keep at it for a few more cycles. I'll put the iron on tomorrow before I leave for work.

back flattening first
Someone already started to do this but didn't finish it. I started on my coarsest stone and went up to my 8K stone.

backs done to a little ways past the top of the round
free hand sharpened the bevels
sharpening and honing the round part is next
I use dowels wrapped in various grits of sandpaper to do this starting with 220 and ending with 1200.

pitted or a rust spot
It turned out to be a little of both. I was able to sand all of the rust away and 99% of the pitting.

sanded up to 1200 grit
stropping finishes this
This is a dowel with a piece of an old leather belt glued to it.  15-20 strokes going from the top to the bottom raises a nice shine.

3/8" beading iron done - repeated for the 1/2" one
1/2" beading iron
I took a few strokes on this with 220 grit and these dark areas weren't showing much change. I didn't know if this was dirt/grime or rust.

mostly grudge with a little rust
I scraped most of what was there away with the sheet rock knife. After this I went back up through the grits to 1200.

I will have to do the bevels better. That will take a bit of time as I changed the bevel angle on them because it was too shallow. They are good enough now for me to road test these.

made my blood offering to the Woodworking gods
removing the burr
stropped the bevels and the backs
3/8 bead
Both beads look good but they didn't come easy. I've found that with most of the molding planes I initially try, I have some trial and error to work out first with them and these two were no exception. After fiddling a bit, I got these two to look pretty good. Now I have to find a home for them. The 3 corrals I'm using now for my molding plane herd are all full.

round over layout for the plate rail
I thought I would have time to do the round overs but it is almost 1700 and time to quit.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What part of the body is the axilla?
answer - the armpit

it's better.......

Thu, 04/27/2017 - 1:11am
I woke up late this morning and I threw on some clothes and motored off to work. I didn't even stop to think about my back hurting. When I did think of it, there was nothing to feel. My back felt normal again. I did get one teeny twinge at lunch when I moved a bit suddenly but that was it. And I think that was mostly due to inertia working against me. Putting all that fat in motion, it takes a bit to slow it down. I took another day off in the shop for just in case.

sink J clip
These are are the only type of sink clips I was familiar with. There are different styles of these but they all work on the same principle.

one of the better J clips
The top of the screw has a plastic cap that keeps the screw from dimpling the sink. Especially so on the thinner gauge ones. I speak from experience on this.

the clip
This fits over a lip on the sink bottom.

the J part
The clip grips the sink. The screw bears down on the bottom of the sink and the J part is caught on the underside of the counter. This action pulls the sink down securely to the counter top. Usually two per side and maybe an extra one on the front and back, is all you need.

the nut
Once you have the sink secured the nut is run up to the bottom of the J.  This keeps the clip from loosening up. The only bad thing about these is the slot for a screwdriver at the bottom of the threaded rod that tends to break, like this one did.

plates for the plate rail
These are some of the dishes for the plate rail. These belonged to my wife's maternal grandmother and I am not involved in what plates get selected. She has also made a circuit of the local antique shops looking for other plates to display too.

this determines the plate rail groove
what I came up with
I have a soup bowl, a saucer and small plate and I measured each one from the box wall to the front of each dish.

I think I'll go with 3 grooves
Since I don't have a warm and fuzzy about what dish, plate or platter is going to be displayed, I think 3 grooves are prudent.

the before pic
The orange rust looking stuff is from the iron. I sanded this down lightly and put on the tannic acid. I am going to let this dry before I put on the iron. This is the way I did it back in December and I got good results that way.

new book came in
I could have gotten a cheaper book but I selected this one. The Seller said it was clean, no pages missing, no notes or any writing on the pages, and the cover was intact with no damage. The lesser cost books all had some of what this one was missing.

second edition
I am no bibliophile in the true sense of the word and a first edition isn't that big of a deal to me. As long as the second edition has the exact same info that the first one has I'm ok with that.  Now that I have volume I, I can start reading it. I have been resisting the urge to read vol II until I got this one.

new tool catalog
I counted the catalogs I have now and with this one, I'm up to 14.  I now have a new obsession hobby to feed. Joshua from Hyperkitten tools sent me this one free. I ordered one from him but he had sold it and forget to remove it from the for sale list. He sent me this one to make up for that boo-boo.

I bought two more side bead planes from Josh too
I bought a 3/8" and 1/2". The 3/8" doesn't have the removable fence that is removed to make a deeper bead or to use the plane against another molding profile. Don't think it will be something I'll miss at this point.

4 beading planes
When I bought these, this is what they were called. The far left one is the newest and I got it from Caleb James. The boxing on the outside of the bead is parallel to the outside of the plane body.

my three side bead planes
These 3 are called side bead planes. The smallest at a 1/4" (left most one) has solid boxing and all 3 of the boxings are at a slight angle to the outside of the plane. Other than this, the planes are basically the same. The beading planes made a bead on the outside edge of the stock. The side bead planes put the bead slightly inboard of the edge. At least the 1/4" one does that and I'll have to wait to find out if the 3/8 and 1/2 inch ones do too.

debating on getting the 5/16" size
I found a tool site that has a London made 5/16" side bead plane. It has the removable fences and all the pics of it look pretty good. The price includes S/H but I'm on the fence with this one. I can't see how a 1/16" will make that much of a difference. I'll sharpen these two irons and road test them  tomorrow.

my wife bought this for me
My father dropped my sister and I off at this orphanage when I was two in 1956 (so I have been told). We stayed there for almost 4 years but I have very few memories of the place. The Nun that helped former residents with info about their stays here pasted on so I have no way of finding out when I got there, how long I stayed, or when I left. I found this in with my tool catalogs and I do remember the habit the nuns all wore.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a coutelier?
answer - a knife maker

still hurting....

Wed, 04/26/2017 - 1:33am
The pain in my back has lessened some and my flanks don't hurt anymore. Both sides migrated the pain to the right side of my spine and it comes and goes. It is annoying having it come and go but I guess it is better than having it constantly throbbing away at me. Maybe tomorrow I'll be pain free.

These 3 pieces are coming along ok. They aren't turning black as quickly as I would like, but they are getting there.

these two suck
The two pine pieces are better looking than these two ash ones. The ash has tannin in it and I expected it to be as black as the edge of space now. I put another coat of tannic acid and iron before I went to work.

This is the 4th application going on these and so far only the walnut is showing promise for matching the cell phone holder color.

1600 the same day
 These 3 look good compared to the cell phone holder on the right. Forgot to snap a before pic before I put the tannic acid on them.

the ash piece is already better than the last attempt on the right side
They look good because they are wet from the tannic acid just being applied to it.

I don't know about this one
I am starting to think that maybe there is some kind of a finish on this stopping the tannic acid and iron solution to fully develop. The first clue is that circle that is still clear.

out of sequence pic
before I put on the tannic acid, I lightly sanded all the pieces with 600 grit sandpaper.

about 6 minutes after the iron went on
I put on the tannic acid and iron and they are drying up. I can see a orange rust color on the pieces that I remember from the xmas ebonizing adventure. I am feeling better about this and 4 out of 5 isn't too bad to take.

53 inches long
This took me over 20 minutes to do. I couldn't take a full swing with the plane without feeling a twinge in the back. Instead I held the plane and leaned to my left to plane a short length. Repeated this in baby steps down the length until I was done.

I've been trying to find out what the difference is between a side bead and a 'regular' beading plane. They both make the same profile and the only thing I can see is the side bead plane has the bead at a slight angle. The regular beading plane has the bead straight up and down. There must be a reason why the side bead is tilted and why it has the name side bead.

stopped here
I was going to make the corbels but realized that would be a mistake. I haven't rounded over the edge and that needs to be done first. This was a good place to shut the lights out too.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a curricle?
answer - a small open carriage pulled by two horses side by side

ouch, it still hurts.......

Tue, 04/25/2017 - 12:05am
My back has hurt before but it has rarely lasted more than one day. And it never hurt so bad that I wanted to rip someones face off. I had dull ache in my lower back, on both flanks, all day on sunday. My hip hurt more than my back did and I put the heating pad on my hip when I went to bed.  I didn't sleep well last night and it seemed I was waking up every hour on the hour. When I finally got up the hip felt good and pain free. The back was iffy at this point. I would say it was sore here.

It was a different story by the time I got home from work. I had dull, throbbing ache in my lower back that no matter what I did, it wouldn't go away. It's not as bad as it was on sunday, but still bad enough to be annoying. This is also the first time my back has hurt going into a second day. I'll putting the heating pad on it tonight.

So because of that and not wanting to aggravate it anymore, I skipped woodworking in the shop tonight. I still went there but I didn't use any tools or make shavings. I picked up on the ebonizing that I stopped a week or so ago. Can't hurt the back stirring powder in water or slathering liquids on a few pieces of scrap wood.

lost about 3/4" of inch
A fair bit of the iron solution has evaporated which surprised me. The lid was closed on it closely and there is one tiny hole in it. Wasn't expecting this much to be gone. More the enough left to see if I can ebonize with it.

fresh tannic acid
I used hot water this time to mix up the tannic acid. The last batch I made I used cold water and the tannic acid clumped up and took forever to dissolve. It dissolved faster and better in the hot water without almost no clumping at all.

first batter is NZ pine from Lowes
The pic I took of the test subjects was way too blurry to even know it was a pic of wood. I am using the NZ pine and white pine first. A scrap of walnut and some ash round out the herd.

tannic acid and iron applied to NZ pine
I dipped it first in the tannic acid and now it is getting dipped in the iron.

walnut turned black
white pine dipped in tannic acid first
the white pine after being dipped in the iron
The white pine didn't turn as dark as the NZ pine did.

the ash test piece
This is the base I use for my lamp for sharpening saws. I slathered on some tannic acid on the right end side.

iron didn't turn it as black as I had hoped it would
my test piece from the last outing
This was in plain sight on the other of the box to the left of it and I didn't see it. This has 5(?) cycles of tannic acid and iron applied to it. Now I can compare that to what it will be like when the iron solution has had a longer time to cook.

this is not very encouraging
This looks like the other end did after the first round there too.

about ten minutes later
The walnut is looking good after one application and it is very close to the black on the cell phone holder.

both pines are getting darker
this is disappointing
the sink clip from hell
This is one of the mangled head ones. Can you tell what type this is Bob?

strange way of clipping on the sink bottom
The sink has a vertical tab/flange that is 90° to the sink bottom. On this flange are several rectangular slots that this clip fits into. There is a tab on the middle finger on this clip that snaps into the rectangular slot. The two prong thing on the left bites into the underside of the counter and the screw is tightened down pulling the sink down and seating it on the top surface of the counter. The J clips I'm more familiar with work on the same principle.

side view
The clip part on the right can be angled outward so you can catch the underneath of the counter if there is a gap to make up. There is a barrel of plastic that the screw threads in and out of and it isn't that sturdy. I tightened down two of these and I pulled the plastic piece right out of the clip. The two circular fingers that hold it in place couldn't hold up to the force from the screw tightening down. I had to take the sink out twice to pull clips off and put new ones in. I never had any of these problems with the J sink clips.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a fugio cent?
answer - the first official one cent coin minted by the United States in 1787

spring has arrived......

Mon, 04/24/2017 - 12:07am
Last week we had a couple of days that were in the 80 degree range with one day hitting 87. I thought spring had finally come but the weather took a U-turn and went cooler. The temps have been seasonal but a bit lower than the norm. However, over the past couple of days I've seen 5 robins and the trees went poof with an explosive burst of buds, leaves, and flowers. My furnace is still coming on intermittently and I had to put a blanket on the bed last night because I felt cold. But spring I think is finally here.

How do I know this? Birds are singing at oh dark thirty when I leave for work. All the other signs aside, I've always taken birds singing before dawn as the true sign of spring. Which brings up the question, just what are the birds singing and chirping about so damn early in the morning? Is this the time that they are looking for a date?

sink job from hell
 It took a couple of hours to get this stage of the install. I am doing a leak test on the bowls and the basket strainers. The sink clips I've used in the past are called J clips and the clips on the this sink were designed in hell. I am glad I bought 3 bags because I stripped the head on the first four of six I tried to tighten. I did two with a powered drill and switched to hand mood and still stripped two.

I don't know how plumbers can do this type of work day after day. My hip stopped singing arias a few hours ago and has been steadily screaming at me. This is the last time I will ever lay on my back and twist and contort my fat body to do something like this. Installing those sink clips was adventure I will not soon forget.

The leak test pasted with flying colors. The bowls held the water for over an hour and there were no leaks underneath.

no leaks here neither
I got lucky and I was able to reuse most of the old piping from the last sink. I bought a new p trap and replaced all of the gaskets (I had a kit of them from my apartment maintenance days). The only pipe I had to trim was the horizontal run from the p trap to the 90 going into the waste pipe on the right.

I'm not sure that I'm onboard with the plastic piping. According to the plumbing who did this, copper is old school and everything is done with plastic now. I remember plastic piping from a long time ago that imparted an unpleasant taste to the water.

I didn't escape free and clear
The sprayer is leaking by the push in handle to turn it on. It is coming out in a fine mist on the left side of it. Several hours after I got sink in I made a road trip to get a replacement sprayer that didn't fit. This is a Delta faucet set and it appears that non Delta sprayers are a no-no. I got the replacement sprayer from Tru Value and I'll have to make a special road trip to Lowes to see if they have replacement Delta sprayers.

it recovered
I pruned this last fall and again a few weeks ago. This is about 3 times the amount of leaves and lilac buds that I had last year. I have another lilac bush behind this against the fence that isn't doing so good. 3 of the five main branches are dead. The two that are alive have very few buds and leaves. I don't think it is going to make another year.

the 4x4 plywood I bought saturday
This side looks like birch to me. This is the reason why I grabbed it and I didn't see the other side until I got to the checkout.

5 plies ?
it's underlayment
The inside rabbet measurement, top to bottom, on the bookcase is 47 1/4 inches. I'll do the width on the tablesaw and I'll try to remove the 3/4" waste with a sheetrock knife.

my only woodworking today
I planed the bead on one of two pieces and stopped here.

I doodled with my beading planes etc
I briefly entertained not using the extra beaded molding  piece and instead planing it on the apron bottom. I liked the 3/8 bead the best. I planed all 3 of the astragals I have but none of them looked right. The rabbet on them was too wide. I kept the side beading molding because that is what my wife drew and it is what she wants.

last piece to be molded
I will do this tomorrow if I feel up to it. I will do the plate rail groove too. I am thinking of putting two of them in because I saw that on a colonial hutch in one of my books. Depending upon the  size the object to put in the groove, determines how far from the wall the bottom of it is. There aren't any measurements for them but I can guess-ta-mate them from the pic.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What holds the Washington Monument together?
answer - no mortar or cement, just the weight of the stones - goes from 15 feet thick at the base to 7 inches thick at the top

plate roughed out.....

Sun, 04/23/2017 - 3:39am
I stopped at Lowes after OT this morning to get sink clips and a 4x4 piece of 1/4" birch plywood for the bookcase. I went 0 for 2 on them. I asked two Lowes workers where the sink clips were and both said it wasn't their department and walked away.  This isn't the Lowes I usually go to and it is laid out differently from one I do frequent. So after wandering around hunting on my own and not finding anything, I left.

Before I left I made a circuit through the hardwood aisle. I had done some figuring and I could make my stand up desk for work out of 3 1x12x3' boards of NZ pine. I like this wood because it is hard and I can write on it without also making indents in the wood. 3 boards of this would have cost me over $60 so I looked at poplar. A 1x12x6' poplar board was going for close to $40. I'll drive to New Hampshire first and buy wood there before I pony up any dollars at Lowes. Not a good start to my day after leaving work.

The good news is I made an extra road trip to the Lowes I normally  go to. Asked a kid in the kitchen department where the sink clips where. Without hesitating, he told me exactly where they were (he couldn't have been more than 19-20 years old). I bought 3 bags because I either lost the one that came with the sink or none were in the box. I also got a 4x4 piece of 1/4" birch plywood but it was different. The front was birch, the middle had a couple of plies, but the back was covered with paper

photographic proof
Sometimes things that befuddle you just fall into place one day, unexpectedly.  It finally happened with me with Mr Spokeshave.  I have watched Paul Sellers use a spokeshave on end grain without any problems and make nice shavings. Me, I got nothing but tear out, chattering, gouges, leading me to using something else besides a spokeshave.

Today I bandsawed the radius on the two corners and cleaned them up with the spokeshave like I had been doing it all my life. I didn't get one continuous shaving from one side to the other but there was no tearing out or chattering. My shavings were smooth and easy coming though. This is the spokeshave iron that I sharpened correctly this time but making sure I raised a burr first.

missing tool
One good thing about tool racks, is you always know when a tool is MIA.

found it on the laundry table
most of the parts are rough sawn
Working on the corbel for the clock shelf.  I am going with a single one here vice two.

need a cutout for the apron

vertical cut is too wide
I am making this cut wider to allow for scribing the corbel to the wall.

this edge will be scribed to the wall
vertical cut was done on the bandsaw and the horizontal one by hand
back side of the horizontal saw cut
The front was done pretty much on the line and this I will flush up with a chisel.

good fitting joint
changed lanes on the scribing
I nixed scribing this to the wall. I planed the part underneath the apron until the cutout sat flush on it. There isn't any real need to go this nutso on this and make extra work for myself.

continued success with the spokeshave
I was able to clean up and smooth the entire curve on this corbel with the spokeshave. I think I'm finally over the learning curve hump with this.

roughing in the parts
The area below the plate rail will be wallpapered and above it is getting paint. The plate rails will butt into the clock shelf and I'll reinforce that joint with a biscuit. The bottom aprons butt together underneath the center of the clock shelf.

the corbel will hide the butt joint
The fit of this is pretty good dry. It lays up tight to the wall and it looks like I didn't need to scribe it afterall.

the kitchen clock
I made this clock in 1995 and it still has the original quartz movement. The shelf is 1 inch bigger than the clock in both directions.

big hollow on this side
I am not going to do anything with this. If I scribe this to fit the wall I would have to cut another plate rail wider to allow for that. The gap is almost a 1/4" wide and I can cheat on this a little by planing a little off the two opposite ends. I don't want to make and fit each individual corbel on this side.

I can do beads with this too
I made two sized beads with this plane to get beads and a larger rabbets too.

my beading irons
This is a record plane but the 3rd from the left is a Stanley iron I think. I tried the Stanley one (after I sharpened it) and the record 3/16" one.

the record bead
Had a bit of trouble plowing this. It was choppy and took a bit more oomph than I thought it should have. I got a bead and a large rabbet nonetheless.

the rabbet makers
The iron made a groove on either side of the hump. I removed most of the outside groove wall with the chisel and planed it flush with the bullnose plane.

the record 3/16" bead
the Stanley bead
I don't know the size of this as it is none marked on the iron. I'm guessing it is 1/4". I like this size better than the smaller 3/16".

the plane is history
This is a small piece of stock and it bowed in the dogs. The far end of the stick didn't get as large of a rabbet as the rest of it. The two pieces of stock that I want to bead are already sawn out and I can't use this plane on them. The fence on the plane rides on the bench keeping the iron from planing the wood. I don't have any way to hold the stock and plane the bead so this is toast.

3/16" beading plane
I like this but the bead is too small and there is no rabbet. I could saw a bit off the thickness but I really want a rabbet/shoulder on this molding.

1/4" side bead plane
I looked over the plane and I found the size on the heel. This is the one I'll use on the plate rail. I don't think I'll have any holding problems trying to plane this bead on the small pieces of stock I have.

still haven't done it
I can't seem to get over the fact that I have to use plastic hands on this clock. I'll have to suck it up  because my wife has asked me twice about it's status.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many stone blocks are in the Washington Monument?
answer - 36,491

working the plate rail.......

Sat, 04/22/2017 - 12:41am
Worked on the plate rail tonight but not because I forgot about the bookcase. I had been thinking about it today on when to drill for the shelf pin sleeves. Do it now and risk not getting the bookcase square or do it after the bookcase is glued? I can see plusses and minuses for both and I got time to pick one. Tonight was for working on finalizing the plate rail details.

got the corbels done
The first two from the left are slightly different. The first one has a flat where it meets the bottom molding and the second one doesn't. The one with the flat was done to fit the space between the top rail and the bottom molding.  Overall I'm satisfied with the sizes of the individual parts except for the bottom molding. That one is too thick and I think something a 1/2" thick would look better.

too thick and I don't like the profile
I planed a cove on this and it did nothing for me. I then put a small round over on the on the top of it to soften it and I still didn't like it.

this looks much better to me
This is a 1/2" thick piece of pine that I planed a bead on the edge. It's too wide but I do like how it looks for the bottom molding.

the scale of the new molding is a better fit here
I wish this rabbet was larger
Being larger would make the shadow line of this stand out. It wouldn't be obscured once it gets painted.

the plane I used to make the bead
I can take the two fences off of the plane and that would allow me to make a deeper bead but I am not sure if it would make the rabbet wider. I like the bead and that stays and I may have to just accept the size of the rabbet.

my smallest hollow
I think I got this nomenclature correct. A hollow makes a round profile and the round makes a circular hollow. I tried to round over the top of the bead to remove the square edge but the results sucked. The hollow may have worked if it was smaller but this one didn't make a round over but instead made a chamfer. I ended up doing it with a block plane.

I tried
I used a bullnose plane to try to increase the rabbet and all I did was to chew it up. It is not easy trying to start the plane on such a small rabbet.

did kind of ok on the far end
test run for the plate groove
My smallest hollow is a #5 which I think is too big but I'm going to try it anyways. I nailed the wood strip to guide the hollow so I'll have a straight groove.

big number 5
nail holes won't be a problem
The plate rail is going to be painted so once the holes are filled, they won't be seen once the paint goes on.

groove is way too big
from Bob Demers
I will need a #1 hollow to make my plate groove. I've read that the small H&R mouths are prone to chipping and breaking out. I forgot I had this attached to one of the 6 cabinet tool doors.

haven't used any of these for quite a long time
1/4" veining router bit
I bought this many, many lunar eclipses ago to do plate rail grooves.  I don't think that I used it more than 3 or 4 times. I may have to use it for the 5th time to do these plate rails.

I quit here because I had to go to the bank. I forgot my PIN for my ATM and I got locked out after 3 invalid tries so I need the bank to reset it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
The Panama Canal has 12 locks. The Suez Canal is twice as long and it has how many locks?
answer - none

prototyping two.......

Fri, 04/21/2017 - 12:18am
I prototyped two projects tonight and I didn't finish either of them. I got an idea I have to try for one and the other is making the parts into the whole. One prototype is for drilling shelf pin sleeves and that is the one I need to try an idea out on. The other one is my wife's honey-do plate rail and I have to make the parts fit together. It wasn't a wasted night and I'm think I'm headed in the right direction on both of them.

using an off cut
I changed the offset at the front and back. Using 2" put them too close together so I moved the rear to 1 1/2" in from the rabbet and the front is 1 3/4" in from the edge. This spread them out more and I think it will make the shelf more stable and give better support for them.

the first row is easy to do
the throat isn't deep enough for the second row
In order to do the opposite row I would have to flip the board 180 and I lose the registration I had on the first row. I was hoping that I could have drilled one row, put spacer between the fence and the shelf, and drilled the opposite side. This is where plan B was formulated.

the problem
Since I don't see any other way around this I am going to have to drill the two starter holes. Getting these two holes dead nuts on the same square line is imperative.

if I drill one hole off in either direction
all the resultant holes will be off too
That means the two holes, side to side, won't be square and shelf will rock. I think everyone knows how I feel about rocking.

the idea
Make a jig with the two outside bottom holes drilled. Place it on the shelf bottom and drill those two holes. Getting the these two holes square on the jig won't be problem. Getting the jig and those two holes square on the shelf sides will have to be done carefully. Because there is a right and left side and I have to account for that.

my spacer
The dowel will be the same size as the drill bit. The first hole will be drilled by placing the dowel in one of the two starter holes. But before I do that I have to set the distance between the spacer dowel and the drill bit. I will do that by placing a piece of wood 2" wide between the drill bit and the spacer dowel. I'll clamp the spacer fence to the drill press table and then drill a lot of holes.

what I should get
The dowel will be in the starter hole and the first drill press made hole should be 2" from that. All the other holes will be 2" from each other too.

doing the opposite side
I will use the same 2" wide piece of wood to set the dowel and drill bit distance and clamp the fence. Drill the opposite side holes and they should be square to the first set. I don't see any potential hiccups with this other than a bit of repetition. The drill press will give me a consistent depth and a hole square to the face of the side.

switched to the plate rail
I'm using the old kitchen cabinet doors to make the prototype for the plate rail. I lost the drawing my wife made but I got the major parts all here. I didn't do the mitered returns on the end and I'll do that after get the corbels figured out. I made them too large and I'll have to make it smaller. I'm doing one first and I'll use that as the pattern for the others.

a circle isn't going to work
If I try to make a quarter circle, it will match up with the edge of the plate rail but be off on the apron. I will have to draw something freehand here.

used a french curve to draw the arc
The fit is much better here but I will be doing these again.

the wife wants this edge to be rounded over
the clock shelf
I think the clock shelf will need a couple of large corbels or maybe just one in the middle. I rounded the two outside corners on it to be more in tune with the other round parts of plate rail.

top view
I will do the plate rail groove with a hollow and one of the smaller ones I have will work good here. The groove for the plates doesn't have to be much bigger than a 1/4".

I can make this in 5 pieces. A  R and L plate rail with the clock shelf in the middle. A two piece apron that I can butt together by placing it centered under the clock shelf. A corbel placed over it will hide that joint. This is starting to look to be doable.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a portmanteau?
answer - a large suitcase usually made of leather and opening into two equal parts

a honey do.....

Thu, 04/20/2017 - 1:10am
The title says it all. After staring at mt screen for minutes, and giving it my best goofy looks, I still had no title. (this title came the next morning when I was proofing this post)My wife has told me my blog titles are as catchy as 2 week old news. I think they reflect what the blog post is about. They may or may not draw someone in to read the keyboard diarrhea I put out. I have several blogs I read daily, on whenever the author posts, and the title doesn't bring in or turn me away. I'll read whatever is written.

Tonight is wednesday and I did a repeat of my garbage day post from last wednesday. I managed to cut up a few more pieces of the old counter top and get it in the shitcan. I couldn't get much because there was a lot of garbage already in there. I should be able to get most it in there for next week if I do it this weekend.

honey do project
My wife wants a plate rail to match the spice rack and the paper towel. This is want I have to go on. Dimensions are up to me until she gets to see them which I'm betting will be all wrong. I still don't know how long shes wants nor the height. The middle is supposed to get a bump up for the kitchen clock. From the drawing I think this means she wants a thin width plate rail. My plan is to make a small section of it out of plywood and get the ok before I make the whole thing.

the drawer and pencil tray have gone south
I decided to not put anything underneath the bookshelf.

my bookshelf
I thought about it last night and I kept looking at my bookshelf and thinking how I wish I had more room underneath it.  I keep a lot of crap there and I really would like to put the desk calendar under it. Being an ex-sailor, I look at this as prime undeveloped real estate. I hope my daughter sees it the same way.

shelf hardware
Two different sizes for different types of wood.

left is for hardwoods and the right for softwoods
I have never liked to use these pins without a sleeve and especially so in soft woods like pine. The sleeves go a long way in keeping the pins from deforming the holes. I am going to use the hardwood pins in the plywood bookcase.

two drill bits
One bit is for the pins and the other is for the sleeve. The sleeve bit is larger than the pin bit.

13" up from the bottom
I like to put the tall books at the bottom. The bottom shelf will have a finished height of 12 1/4" to the first pin.

top shelf

My wife has a lot of books that are 7" to 6" high. This shouldn't waste too much space at the top. I went with a 2" for the pins to save on them. This spacing will take 64 sleeves and 12 pins for 3 shelves.

I have been thinking about making a shelf pin drilling jig for the drill press. I think I got the spacer part figured out so it'll be repeatable but the distance from the edges is going to take some overtime with the brain power. I want to come in 2" from the front and the rear so I have a lot of holes to line up when I flip the sides to the opposite holes.

the box is done
I found a clean rag and buffed this out. It felt a little greasy before I did that and afterwards it felt smooth to the touch all over and not greasy.

left rear quarter glamour shot
the back
I like how the walnut plugs pop out. I wonder if Manny will look at this and think it is part of the box or what their true purpose is.

right side
interior shot
I picked a piece of birch plywood that had some figure and a knot in it.

back of the lid
I thinned the lid down but it still ended up about a 16th proud. I planed a small chamfer to ease the end of the lid into the back. This was it for my shop time tonight I had to go and deliver the box to Manny.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What four states voted against the 16th amendment (the income tax amendment)?
answer - Connecticut, Rhode Island, Utah, and Florida

drawer ideas......

Wed, 04/19/2017 - 12:24am
I've been tossing around ideas for the drawer on the walnut bookshelf and I haven't come up with anything I like. I read a blog post this morning about a escritoire where 20 drawers were made tapered. The fronts were the highs and the backs were 3/16" lower. The author said it was deliberate but he didn't know the reason why. I need and want a tapered drawer so the bottom of it will be level. The need is identified, the how is the next question that needs to be answered.

second  of wax
I did this first thing to get it done but mostly so I wouldn't forget to do it.

one of four cherry bases I have
The ash bases were marked off this cherry one. The ash is about a 1/32 less in height than the cherry but the angles are the same.

I was right
I thought this through correctly because by turning the cherry bases upside down, the bottom of it is parallel to the workbench top. This is what the sides of the drawer will be made like.

made a test drawer side in pine
I don't think making a pair of these will be a problem. I made the bases the same and making the sides should be just as easy.

drawer front
This is a piece of maple and with some walnut stain, it should be difficult to pick it out from the real stuff.

another test pattern in 1/4" plywood
I don't want the sides of the drawer to extend past the bottom of the cutout on the bases.

height done, length is next
if I go to the back slats
I gain 2 more inches of depth this way. It would make the interior space more useful being larger for stowing note pads etc.

it doesn't look good extended past the back of the vertical end
this is the right length
The front to back of the drawer, including the fronts and backs, should fall within the end.

too wide
The drawer as is, is sized to fit inbetween the two inside edges of the bases. I think there should be a bit of wiggle room and a gap here.

made it about a 1/2" on each side
I am not liking this look at all. I cut the length down again to 12" and centered it. I didn't like that look neither. I have something nagging at me telling me the width needs to be thinned.

went in the opposite direction
Nixed the drawer and now I'm putting in a pencil tray. This I can veneer with something from the pizza box of veneer I have in the boneyard.

cut to length and squared the ends
wish I had a larger round
Jim Bode has has a lot of sets of H&Rs for sale but I don't won't a full 18 plane set. I don't see single pairs of H&Rs for sale that often and when I do they are in a size I have already or don't want. A #6 is the biggest round I have and I'll use it make my pencil tray.

using a gouge too
Between the two of these, I was able to hog away a lot of wood quickly.

I got the 'aw' out but not the shit before the plane exited the edge at an angle heading south.

needs to be a wee bit deeper
sanding out some of the ridges
pretty smooth to the touch but not perfect - planed the mistake off
needs to be deeper but the arc looks pretty good

the other end is a pretty close match
I'm satisfied with this
The mystery of making things like this has evaporated. This needs to be deeper to hold more pens and pencils and I should use a thicker piece of wood. I need to spend a little more time on this but there aren't any deadlines on it.

maybe I should make this tapered too?
I still have to figure out a drawer guide system for it too. The first batter is deciding on a design and then I'll tackle a drawer guide. This is it for tonight because Mickey's big hand is on 12 and the little one is on five. Time to shut out the lights.

bought a new catalog
 This is the biggest catalog I have ever seen. Did Stanley put out catalogs in book form this large?

colored page

the Stanley 55 in color
I will have to compare this catalog to the other two Stanley catalogs I have.

new book and a problem
I got this book and the catalog from Time Tested Tools. For whatever reason I missed that this was Volume II. My problem is I now have to get Volume I. I did a quick look see at lunchtime and Amazon has them used for about $80. I'll be getting that next payday.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Kathrine Switzer?
answer - she was the first officially numbered female runner (261) to run in the Boston Marathon in 1967

bookcase started......

Tue, 04/18/2017 - 12:21am
It felt strange tonight working on the bookcase and using power tools. I have used power tools over the past 5 years but it was mostly to do a quick cut or two and finish up with hand tools. I looked at the bookcase tonight thinking I could make all the rabbets and dadoes by hand but I stuck with the tablesaw. I really want to whack this out as quick as I can. Besides, the glue and cross grain layering of the plywood would cause havoc with my hand saws and planes.

ready for my wax finish
I planed all the sides and lightly sanded them with the new sanding block I just bought.

branded and signed
I put in a few glue blocks to stiffen the bottom. I don't know what will be put in this but it should handle anything short of a small block chevy engine.

might have a use for this (kitchen sink cut out)
Richard Maguire has a special purpose piece of plywood he uses for sharpening with his waterstones. It keeps the mess they generate on the plywood and off the workbench. Formica is waterproof and I just have to add sides to make a shallow box. If water gets to the substrate it will make it swell - it's 1" thick chip board. Something else to add to the A list.

tip from Steve
I have used mineral spirits to find errant glue splooges before but not to check for finishing hiccups.  Steve said this will give a go/no go on those.

if they darken I'm good to go
they got dark
I can still see the 'grain' of them but they got dark with the alcohol. As the alcohol evaporated, they turned whitish again.

the ends were the worse looking
Both ends turned dark when I applied the alcohol. Knowing this makes me feel better about putting the finish on this.

I am trying to figure out how to make a tapered drawer. If I put a drawer up against the bottom of the shelf it would be tilted backwards. Everything in it would slide to the back of the drawer. If I make the sides angled so that it is parallel to the underneath of the shelf, the drawer bottom will be parallel to the flat surface the bookshelf rests on. This is going to be another spatial exercise for me.

I think I have a handle on this one but we'll have to wait and see
bookcase started
I need four dadoes and four rabbets for the carcass. I thought of using an electron munching router but I really dislike using them now. They are incredibly noisy and the spew wood debris and dust all over the place. The tablesaw is not much quieter but it doesn't throw wood dust and chips all over the shop.

quick work to make these
Now I can do some hand work and clean up the rabbet for the back panel first.

ridges need to go
I nibbled the dado waste away because there were only four of them. And I didn't have enough overhead room to run the piece vertically through the saw.  I made the rabbet for the back panel with two saw cuts.

cleaned up with the record 073
back panel is too small
The height is ok but the width is 6" too short. I changed my mind on the width of the bookcase and I changed it to 30" vice the original 24". At the rate my wife is buying books, I am betting this bookcase will be filled before summer is over.

dry fit looks good
I was surprised that my aluminum clamps reached on the 4 foot length. I had to stop here with the bookcase because I need the back panel to square it up.

man in brown came
I changed making my stand up desk from plywood to solid wood. I shortened the depth of it from 18" to 14" too. That made my first set of drawer glides too long so I bought a shorter set.

bought some #6 brass RH screws
first coat on
I am starting to warm up to the simplicity and ease of application of this linseed oil and wax finish. The fact that it looks good too isn't hurting the home team neither. I don't anticipate any problems with getting this done for wednesday.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the largest living fish?
answer - the whale shark, it can reach 50 feet in length and weigh 20 tons