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Accidental Woodworker

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The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2642125
Updated: 1 hour 40 min ago

all the woodworking is done.......

Thu, 09/07/2017 - 1:42am
The lid for the 71 box is done. This almost completes the woodworking for this box. It appears I fibbed a bit with my blog post title but I have an excuse. I should have said all the major box making woodworking is done. I still have to make some doo-dads for the irons, etc etc. I bought a 1/4" and 1/8" iron for the router today from Lee Valley. Until I get them making doo-dads for the 3 parts is on hold.



changed my mind on this
I think the best way to stow this in the box is to thread a hole and use the fence screw to secure it. That is the big rub though. I think that the fence screw is a 12-20 (not 100% sure of that) and I came up dry trying to find a tap and die in that size. I found a few promising leads but they all dried up quickly. I was surprised with that because one lead from the WWW had been posted in july.

If I can't get a tap I'll try using the screw itself to thread the wood. This is either pine or maybe fir but the wood is soft regardless of what species is it. I don't think it will be a problem using the screw as a tap.

sizing the width
The double tic marks at the far end is the middle between the sides. I lined up the joint line on the board with that and marked the groove onto the board.

rabbet laid out
I have been making the lid rabbets a 1/2" or wider and this time I made it 3/8".  A 1/4" will be buried in the groove leaving a small 1/8 gap on both sides.

started the rabbet with this plane
tried to use this one to finish it
Trying to use this plane was a failure. It took me a while to dial in the depth and then the cut wasn't so good. I didn't have enough projection of the iron on the inboard side which is important to have on a rabbet plane to work properly. This plane wasn't tracking in the first wall but making a new one. I sent it aside and I'll have to practice more with it before I try it again.

rabbets dialed in
The lid slides in and out easily. If I pick the box up the lid will slowly fall out which is what I was shooting for. By the time I'm done shellacing this, the fit will be just right. Squaring up the rear of the lid is next.

back squared up
 This plane is getting dull but it spit out a lot a nice looking full length shavings.

speed bump
The front of the box is a few frog hairs lower than the groove bottom on both sides. I tried to dial this in but it is something I am not doing good with. I erred on making it close as I could without going below the front.

the fix
I planed two shallow pass rabbets on each edge to compensate for it.

lid sawn to rough length
I still have to plane this front edge at a 45 and leave a small flat. I want some wiggle room and a strong 32nd should do it. I also don't want the front to go pass the front edge.

chamfer done
The bottom edge of the chamfer is in line with the bottom of the rabbet.

1/2" astragal on both sides
used the shavings to burnish the astragals
front of the lid is done
I planed the front of the lid in a slightly rounded way. I came in from the end to the middle from both sides until the outside edges were flush with the end of the grooves.

made the lid proud of the top
I purposely made the lid this way. The astragals will blend the sides in and a small chamfer on the back will do it there.  I marked the back where top of the box is.

lid marked
 One thing I don't want is to have is the bottom of the chamfer to dive below the top of the box.


took my time
I didn't want to have any blowout on the beads and I did pretty good there. Now I have to erase a pencil mark on end grain.

thumb catch done
I remember my first one I did. I agonized over trying to get the sweep of the oval perfect. I think that one took me over 10 minutes. This one was done in less than 2 minutes.

this box eats up a lot of real estate in Myles's tool box
Tomorrow I'll have to start something new. This toolbox needs a till or a lift out tray.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
The painting,"Arrangement in Gray and Black No. 1", by James Whistler is better know by what name?
answer - Whistler's Mother

finishing up the 71 box.......

Wed, 09/06/2017 - 4:21am
It's been a wee bit chilly in my part of the universe over the past week or more and tonight is forecasted for the low 70's. The night time temps were hovering around the 55 to 60 degree mark. I wonder if the two hurricanes are screwing up the weather this far north. Irma looks like it is going to be a bitch of hurricane. I don't recall ever hearing of a cat 5 one. No gender bias implied here. Harvey was the last name and it was a female name batting next for this one.

plow plane box is done
I got 6-7 coats of shellac on this and that is sufficient for a shop box. It has a nice sheen and it should afford more than adequate protection.

inside peek
sizing the lid
I sawed off the large piece and kept the smaller one. That will make less for me to plane to thickness but still have enough to saw and fit it.

top has no twist
There is no twist but there is a small bit of cup. The two outside edges are high but the opposite face is flat.

reference face
I went straight across the long way 4 times before I got a continuous shaving going end to end. After that I crisscrossed L to R and then R to L. I finished it by planing the long way back and forth until I got continuous shavings side to side.

ran a gauge line 360
The gauge line at this corner is a little higher than the other 3. I marked this with some X's and avoided planing it until the other 3 corners matched it.

one lid planed to thickness
It isn't sized for the width yet and I'll do that tomorrow. I want this to sticker overnight before I do that.


doo-dad for the depth stop - sawed a step for the shoe
had to do some gouge work
The back of the depth shoe isn't at a right angle to the rod. It is pitched forward a little and I had to remove a bit at the back for it to lay flat on the step.

done
I didn't need the step but I had to do something to keep it from looking so plain.

it's a tight fit
It sticks out into the interior more than I want. This isn't where I want this neither but it is about the only spot that works. In other spots I tried, the router was in the way with putting it in or taking it out.

change two coming
I said in yesterday's blog that this was carved in stone. Tonight I broke out the stone breaker, aka the 3lb sledge.


this works

I'll keep this in the hole provided in the router for now.  When I think of something else, I'll do that. I want this in a holder so if I don't need it, it won't be flopping in the box.

fence storage
The plan is to make a half box for this to live in.

lots of stock in case I screw it up
I got the fence figured out but I'm not sure how to stow the screw and washer for it. I may have to buy a 12-20 tap because I would like to tap a hole for it and screw it into that. Of course that depends on whether or not the screw is actually a 12-20.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the largest shopping Mall in the United States?
answer - The Mall of America in Bloomington,  Minnesota (it ranks 36th in the world)



Stanley #71 box......

Tue, 09/05/2017 - 3:40am
It seems that boxes and more boxes, has captured my limited attention span. I just made a plow plane box and  one for a Stanley #71. This one is for my grandson and I have to start him out on the right foot. I didn't stop there with the box making but made one more. This is one of two that I started a few weeks ago and set aside. The second box is missing a side that I'm still searching for.

determining where the dadoes are going
I will have to make stopped dadoes on this box. If I try to bury them in a pin/tail the bottom will be too high up and the 71 won't fit. I have a router with a 1/4" iron that will hopefully match up with the 1/4" Lee Valley grooving iron.

missed it on the long sides
I started out ok but as the grooving progressed I noticed I was hitting the tail on both ends. On the entry end I didn't have a lot of  room to drop the iron down in the space at the bottom of the tail.  The deeper I got with the groove, the tighter the drop in became. The exit was due to 'aw shit' I missed stopping in time.

very tight fit
The iron just fit the groove, barely. The iron is also skewed to the base which makes it difficult to use if you are not used to it. Every once in a while I forget and square the base to the board and the iron is skewed to the left and I find the error of my ways right away.  I find it easier to keep it tracking in the groove by looking only at the iron and not the base.

two stopped grooves
These were relatively easy to whack out because I was able to plow a shallow groove from end to end with the plow plane first(look back two pics). I then used a chisel and the router to complete the groove.

bottom sawn to length and width
I ran one gauge line 3/8" in from the edge and another for the depth. Even with a pencil highlighting the depth, it was hard to see against the layers of the plywood.

snug fit on the ends
ends done, long edges next
With the ends done I have a visual and an actual depth to plane to.

bottom fitted
inside look
I am liking using 3/8" plywood for box bottoms a lot. They are a lot stiffer and stronger than 1/4" plywood (that is never a 1/4"). I don't have the problems of a loose fit because I can rabbet the 3/8 plywood to fit whatever iron I use to make a groove with. Of course that holds true only for iron widths less then the thickness of the 3/8" plywood.

problem
The front and rear ends are cupped. The corners at the bottom (on one side) have slightly pulled away. If I clamp the box on all four corners and close them up, I can't square the box. I opted for a square box and gaps on the half pins. I glued it up and set it aside to cook.

piece of 1/4" MDF
it's for french fitting the 71
99.9% done
I had a fun adventure sawing this out with the Knew Concept coping saw. I felt like I had no thumbs trying to put the blade back in the saw. I would get one end in and it would fall out while I was doing the opposite one. Then I didn't get the right tension on it and I bowed the blade sawing this out. And my sawing was not very close to line neither. It's a good good thing that this rasp will hog off a lot of material. Rasping this to the line didn't take more than 5-6 minutes.

fitted
I had to rasp a couple of tight spots before the 71 dropped into place.

made it a strong 16th shorter both ways
spray painting it black
This will cover all the pencil marks plus it will look pretty good against the shiny metal of the 72.

dry fit of one of the orphan boxes
I don't remember why I made these two boxes. I think it was to practice doing hinges but it is getting a plywood bottom and no lid or cover. That is subject to change.

sneak preview
I have a few more coats to put on but I couldn't wait to see how it looks.

the lid
I do not like making lids out of two boards. This however, is an exception to that rule. A book matched lid is a suitable alternative to a solid one board lid. I glued this with hide glue and set it aside until tomorrow.

glue set up - cleaned up the box
one of the cupped gaps
I thought I only had two of these to fill but I ended up finding 3 more.

can you see them?
I plugged four through groove holes on this end. I am looking at it now and I can't see them. I used a pine scrap from the same board as the box for the plugs.

I need some doo-dads for the 71
I got a few ideas for the depth rod/shoe and the fence that are pretty much set in stone. The spear point iron is still simmering on the back burner. I found a proper screw and washer for the fence from NH plane parts. I should have it by friday. Finding a doo-dad for that will take some head scratching.

last coat of shellac
Missed my monday completion date with the plow plane box. Tomorrow I will look at this and see if it will get one last coat of shellac or not.

Had a short day in the shop even though it was a day off for me. I went out to lunch with my friend Billy who retired in Dec. It was good to see him again and to chew the fat. When we worked together we went to lunch every friday for over four years. Nine months later, I still miss him on fridays.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
This federal building took only 16 months to complete and opened in 1943. Which building is it?
answer - the Pentagon

another photo sunday......

Mon, 09/04/2017 - 1:52am
I got into a good groove today and I humped and pumped like I was a young pup. I got a lot of things done and even I was impressed at quitting time with the items ticked off in column A. For the third time I am doing a picture blog with a minimum of keyboard diarrhea.

quiet time work - road testing Myles's block plane
even shavings from the right and left side
end grain - mostly dust
advanced the iron and better shavings - end grain test ok
this is what I wanted to do yesterday and today - I started these a few weeks ago
lost a side somewhere - I'll saw this one in half
epoxy set up on the doo-dad end caps
everything still fits
good fit and it is secure
flushed the ends and the tops
planed a chamfer on the side facing the interior of the box
about 1/2 way just in case I add a wooden auxiliary fence
enough room to take it out and put it back
pocket for the iron box
this will keep the box in place so it doesn't flop around in the box
a spacer to set the board for wiggle room
Stanley 71 parts out of the Evaporust, rinsed and blown dry
spear point iron
got some pitting where I don't want it
cross hatching
This keeps the iron from shifting while using it. The shaft that this screws onto is slanted so the toe is down and the heel rises up at the back.

Wally World run
I used to save my shop towels and wash them at the laundermart but I can't do that anymore. The 'industrial' machine they had where you could wash anything you wanted, is gone. I won't wash them at home because I don't want the possibility of whatever staining something of my wife's.

I use them and toss them
made glue sticks with the T77 spray adhesive
I made four sanding sticks out of one sheet of sandpaper. This was left and it is enough to do this one edge. I got this tip from watching the Plane Collector on You Tube.

I sawed each one into thirds without ripping or shredding the sandpaper
the 1/2" iron has pitting too
80 grit runway - I tried to sand the pits out
got lucky and I was able to sand out all the pits
tried sanding this as is and it was way to difficult to do -very hard to hold and push at the same time
put it together and this way was much better
I was concerned about doing it this way because the iron is screwed to the shaft. The countersink is large and the screw head is below the iron by about 3 frog hairs. I got lucky with this iron too and was able to sand out the pits.

had the runway set up so I worked on the 71 base
120 grit after a couple of minutes work - dropped down to 80 grit and started over
320 grit
completed with a sanding block with 400 and then 600 grit - raised a good shine
orange cleaner got some of the stains
tried WD-40 next - not sure if it did anything
this seemed to work - most of the stains are gone now
sharpened, honed, and stropped
Stanley 71 is done
test dado - sawed the walls and chiseled out most of the waste
works very well
done - I like the action and feel of this better than my LN router
brush box needs a latch
going to make one out of a brass mending plate
checked this one but it is too wide for 1/2" stock
sawed the notch and filed it smooth
done
no problems working the latch blind
metric drill caddy box glamour shot
8 out of 10 stayed home
I put this by the drill press
I need a box for Myles's Stanley #71
found a toolbox
I made this about 8 years ago(?) to be just a box. I converted it to a tool box to take to a Lie Nielsen weekend class I took several years ago. I didn't take it because it was too heavy.

french fitted for a lot of tools I don't know what, where, or how they fit now
bottom laid out for planes but no saws
I like that it has a lock
Myles's new toolbox
This toolbox was under the one above. I made this a few years back, stuck in the boneyard, and promptly forgot about it. I had to rap on the lid with a hammer to open it.

I can fit a lot more tools (saws too) in this one
the back - I think this was Chris S inspiration build
bottom has replaceable ship lapped boards nailed on
needs a till or maybe two
some tools for Myles besides the planes
This will work out great for me. I can buy tools for him and have a place to put them.

made the box for Myles's #71
tried to make this one as small as possible
flushing the bottom - knocking this corner down is first
now the plane will turn the corner
bottom has no twist
tear out
Even with planing this at an angle I still got tear out. I turned the box around so the plane did this first with the grain. This is the top which is trickier to do than bottom because the front is open.

top has no twist too
plow plane box (still no finish)
I decided on bevels to match the front of the lid. I got 2 coats of shellac on after this and it'll be done by monday.

3 tries
Finally got the plow set - 1/4" from the edge and 1/4" deep. I'll plow the grooves for Myles's box tomorrow.
accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was the highest rated TV show of all time?
answer - the final episode of MASH in February of 1983

tool rehab day.......

Sun, 09/03/2017 - 2:52am
Doing a tool rehab for today wasn't on the menu but it is what I decided to do. I bought a Stanley block plane for my grandson's toolbox and a 1/2" skewed wooden rabbet plane for me. I bought them from Hyperkitten tools and I got them late on friday night. I had already written the blog for posting on saturday so they didn't make it into it. The menu had the plow plane box as the entree but the epoxy work sidelined that. So I thought I would quickly whack out a rehab.

Stanley block plane
This is the 20° angle plane which I think is the 60 1/2?. I'm not sure of that but it has an adjustable mouth and it is in great shape. Almost all the japanning is present and it is clean. Most of the Stanley block planes I see look like they served in WWII.

another potential problem area
The lateral lever adjust for the iron is in great shape. I see a lot of these with rounded end tab missing or bent in the wrong direction. This plane looks like it was bought, looked at, and stuck on a shelf after using it once or twice. This will be good block plane for Myles to use.

my 1/2" skew rabbet plane
This plane has an odor that I can't put my finger on. A lot of my wooden planes have an odor to them but they usually aren't as strong as this one is. This one I can still smell on my fingers hours after using it.

owned by someone with an F
escapement side
It looks like this is not the original iron. There is a about 3/8" above the top of the iron going into the plane body. It could be the original iron too and it has been shortened by sharpenings.

no problems making a cross grain rabbet
As you can see I didn't run a knife line first but that didn't stop the plane from doing it's work.

plane iron update
I put an iron from "Tools from Japan(?)" in the 4 1/2 and a Ray Iles in the 5 1/2 at the same time. I used the 5 1/2 more than the 4 1/2 flattening bunch of boards. The iron in the 4 1/2 is dull. It is still cutting but I can feel it isn't as easy. I would have bet the iron from Japan would have outlasted the Ray Iles at a minimum, 2 to 1.

this one still feels like it is sharp
drill caddy bottom closed up
This is almost done. I got the last coat of oil on it today and tomorrow I'll post a glamour shot.

the epoxy has set
I lightly ran the ends over some 100 grit to give it a tooth for the next application of epoxy.

end caps epoxied and taped until tomorrow
my grandson's plane herd
From the top left, a 5 1/4, #4, #3, and a block plane. I think this is a good starting point for Myles. I would like to add a low angle block plane to complete this. I am undecided about whether or not I should add a #6 or a #7. I've time on that as I still haven't made the toolbox.

the next batter
I broke the plane down to parade rest and it is a lot cleaner than I initially thought it was. There is hardly any dirt or dust built up in the nooks and crannies. This should be a quick and easy rehab turn around.

this was a PITA to get off
the brass is nice and shiny
worked the iron next
The back was pretty flat and I finished that and made it shiny too.

had to regrind the angle to 25°
hit a big hiccup here
I thought I was going to be able to remove some scratches and shine up the sole on the granite block starting with 400 grit. That didn't happen sports fans. The 400 grit was barely touching the sole so I dropped down to 220 and that wasn't much better. The clean look of the plane was deceiving.

80 grit
I have a hump on this sole. The front and rear first quarter inches are the low spots. I know now why this looks so good. I didn't try this before I started doing this to confirm it. I'll bet this plane rocked while planing which is why it was set aside.

an hour later
I didn't go at this for an hour straight. It was more of  10 minutes on the runway and 10 minutes resting. I still haven't get it flat end to end but I did close it up some on the toe and heel.

12" precision straight edge
An 1/8" in from the toe and about an 1/8" from the heel, I'm dead nuts flat. I can't see any daylight under the heel but I can see it at the toe.

320 grit
Including breaking for lunch, I had over 3 hours into this rehab at this point. I thought this would have been a 30 minute job tops. Including coffee and head breaks. After 320, I finished up with 400 and 600.  After all this sanding was done I still didn't get the sole down to the low spots. I think that this is the best that I'll be able to do with this without sanding through the sole.

starboard side
stern shot
port side


bow shot
The plane was washed and cleaned with orange cleaner and I applied Autosol to the sides and the sole. I did all this to get it looking pretty but I didn't road test it. I forgot to do it before I put it away with Myles's other planes. I'll do that tomorrow.

my grandson's #71
The depth rod sticks and it was very hard to push through the hole. I checked the rod thinking it was the problem because it had what looked to be a rust bloom on it. It wasn't the problem and the rod cleaned up and feels smooth end to end. When I put the rod in the hole I could feel a burr or something in the hole close to the top.

no more burrs
I first tried 400 grit wrapped on the dowel but it wasn't doing too much. I got rid of whatever was on the inside of the hole with 220 grit. The depth rod slides up and down freely now

Evaporust bath
There are only a few parts that need this bath. Most of the plane and it's parts are nickel plated. The thumb screws have a few spots of nickel lost and rust but those I can sand. It is looking like this one will be an easy tool to rehab and turn around quickly.

had to use heat
I tried WD40, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, and penetrating oil over the past week and none of them loosened the screw.  It took heat to finally break the screw free. I tossed this into the Evaporust too.

I meant to go to Pepin Lumber today but I forgot it. They have 1" thick x 12" wide pine, rough one side and smooth on the other, that I want to use for my grandson's toolbox. Maybe next week end I'll get it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is Hansen's disease?
answer - leprosy

doo-dads........

Sat, 09/02/2017 - 3:00am
Before I started working on the doo-dads for the plow plane box, I checked the lid in the box first. I got a wee bit of surprise with it in that it was hard to push it all the way home. The lid had bowed slightly across it's width and I had to plane the back corners to get it to slide smoothly again. I also noticed that the back wasn't square and tight there neither. I'll play with that before I applied the finish.

oops
This is what I did thursday night after dinner. I drilled the hole on the right on the wrong side of the layout line.

drilled a practice one first
This is what I should have done last night but I thought I could eyeball the layout lines and get away with that. I think that if I had drilled the hole on the correct side of the line, it would have worked.


fits the fence rods
The rods are 5/16" and the holes I drilled are 11/32 which gives me some wiggle room.

clamped it to the doo-dad
I flushed the backs and marked the holes by tapping on the drill. I drilled the holes on the drill press.

everything fits with room to spare
I had to thin the holder for the plane
I had to saw off a little more than 5/8". If I had put the slot on the other face I wouldn't have had to saw it. I put the plane in the thinnest face because I thought it looked better and it also made things not quite as tight.

the doo-dads aren't quite done
I made the slots for the conversion fence and the plane about a 1/4" longer than the parts. The ends are open and won't work well with keeping the two of them contained. I'm going to epoxy caps on the ends to keep them in place.

using the good stuff
sized the ends
I want the end caps to be secure and this is an end grain to long grain connection. I know that this epoxy will not hold if I attach the caps to the ends now. Sizing the ends and then epoxying the caps on will be a very strong joint. I did this same thing on my xmas present stands. As far as I know they are all still together(all 5 of mine are). This will add a couple of more days to the completion but in the interim I can complete the finishing.

metric drill caddy box
 The 3 and 4 mm bits are in holes a lot looser than the others. These two fall out if I turn the box upside down and fall out through this gap. I am going to glue a strip to the box to close this gap off. This is a piece of ash cutoff from the doo-dads that is a perfect fit.

it's almost 1700
I'll let this set up until tomorrow. The last thing I did before I left the shop was to apply a second coat of oil to the drill caddy. Tomorrow I'll put the second and final coat on the box.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was the only state (colony) not invaded by the British during the Revolutionary War?
answer - New Hampshire


plow plane box pt V.......

Fri, 09/01/2017 - 1:13am
I didn't get to finish the doo-dads for the box. I thought it would have been a done deal but it didn't happen. Sometimes things take way longer than I think they will. Tonight cutting and fitting the plugs for the box took most of my shop time to get done. I'm not a slow worker and I got into a groove doing these and lost all track of time. I'll still get this done before the weekend.


another first for me
I used the 5 1/2 to clean and flush the tails and pins on the box. Using that plane left ridges even though my corners on the plane are rounded off. I smoothed everything with the #3. I need it smooth because I'm going to wax the box instead of shellacing it.


enough walnut for a hundred boxes
I saved these pieces from something else(?) for just this purpose.

back is done
I tried to make sure that the plug end showing was face grain. I want these pop and be an eye catcher and face grain will do that better than end grain.

1645 and I'm finishing up the last plug
conversion fence
I was expecting this to be metric but it is measuring a frog hair under 1/8". I have them squeezed on the fence here to snap the pic.

the plane body measures the same
slot for the fence
I was going to make this groove with my record plow plane but it's maximum depth is only 1/2 of this. I made this one on the tablesaw. The fit of the fence in the slot is perfect. It isn't too tight nor too loose.

the planned spot for the fence
Getting to the conversion fence won't be a problem. This fence will still be needed so it'll come off first regardless and then I can grab the conversion fence. The brass screw will go in a hole inbetween the fence rods.

I measured the rods and they are 5/16" diameter. Again I was expecting metric but I'm happy with the imperial.  Tomorrow I'll make a drilling guide for the rods and make some practice holes before I drill the holes in the box doo-dad.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the longest running scripted TV show in the US?
answer - The Simpsons at 29 seasons (Gunsmoke and Law & Order both had 20 yrs)

plow plane box pt IV.......

Thu, 08/31/2017 - 1:27am
There is an old adage that says haste makes waste. That is true most of the time but I would add that mistakes are usually tagging along behind the waste. I accomplished all three tonight. I worked in haste initially, made a mistake, and ended up with some waste. I was trying to get too much done in too short of the time allotted and I paid the price. Oh well, I have suffered worse intracranial flatulence attacks and survived.

lid choices
 I went with the smaller board because it would have less waste.

both have cathedral grain I will use
sawn to rough length but not the width
I want to center the width on the point of the cathedral between the sides of the box
the haste, waste, and mistake part
I did get the width centered on the cathedral and I got a snug fit between the sides. But I forgot to add the rabbet that goes in the groove.

repeated the cathedral thing with the second lid
This time I did include the rabbet for the lid and it is 2 frog hairs too wide, groove to groove.

labeled the front so I won't get it mixed up(on both faces)
I have the point of the cathedral pointing to the front of the box. I squared the back end to fit up against the back.

left the front long
Once I had the rabbets made and fitted, I trimmed the front end flush.

planing the rabbets
These rabbets were a bit on the large size and I could have sawn them out and saved some time but I opted to plane them. I need the practice and so far I'm doing good.

a teeny bit of a slope on the entry end
none on the exit end
pretty even on the gauge line too
I don't have my usual 'ramped' in/out planing nor a hump in the middle. I got the same results on the opposite side when I planed it. I am slowly getting better with making rabbets by hand.

I'll plane to this gauge line after I fit the rabbets
about 80% on the second try
This is one area where I don't haste at all. I've learned my lesson here from past fittings and I go slowly, like molasses flowing in the winter. I look at the lid front and back frequently as I fit it.

right front - loose on the side and at the top
left front - loose on the side and tight at the top
the back right
This is a little harder to see what is what but it appears the top of the rabbet is tight to the top. I can see a bit of a gap on the side.

the left side is a close repeat of the right
This is where I take thin wispy shavings and do frequent checks. I gradually snuck up on getting the lid fitted.

I could probably close it but I' wasn't sure that I could open it again
finally got it
I can open and close the lid without a finger grab. I may have to plane the rabbets deeper because I want to put some shellac on this box. The shellac build up will cause the lid to bind.


marked the lid and planed it to the line - left it a frog hair proud
planing a chamfer on the front end
I am doing the chamfer first because an astragal is next. If I do the astragal first I will get blowout when I do the chamfer. It took me two lids done that way before I started doing it this way.


done

I don't like the knife point edge so I do it this way. I think the flat not only is a better visual presentation, it is stronger and less prone to chipping or breaking on the edge.

1/2" astragal batted next
grain reversed on this end
I got a little chipping and few divots on the bead on this side but there wasn't much I could have done to avoid it. I went at it as slow as could to minimize it.

layout for the thumb catch
I should have done the layout for this before I did the front chamfer and the astragals. I had a hard time getting a square on this because of the chamfer and astragals being in the way.   I did most it of by eye.

don't know what I want here
I am not sure if I want a bevel on this or a round over. I like the round over and I think it will hold up better than a bevel. I'll have to wait and see what shakes out with this tomorrow.

it's 1700 and quitting time
I'll finish the cleanup of the exterior tomorrow and start making the doo-dads for the plane and the other parts.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is an anglophone?
answer - someone who speaks english

plow plane box pt III.......

Wed, 08/30/2017 - 1:57am
I'm making good progress with the plow plane box. After what I got done tonight, I know that this will done before the weekend. All that is left is making the lid and the doo-dads for holding the parts in the box. This will join the herd of the other boxes I have made for tools. Each one is different and that is how I can tell what tool is in what box. At least for now as my memory is still pretty much intact.

cut the bottom to width on the tablesaw
sawed the length by hand and squared it up
set my rabbet plane for the width
practice groove from yesterday
I can use this same board to check the rabbet on the bottom.

snug fit
I have taken this as far as I want to with the rabbet plane. Overall I did ok with it. My corners didn't come out flush but the fit in the groove was consistent all the way around. From eyeballing down them they also appeared to be square with no obvious slope at the edge up or down.

I'm going to sweeten the fit with the tenon plane

self supporting on all four sides
This is a good fit but I will take a few more shavings to loosen it just a bit. I don't want it to bind when I put the box together.

self supporting with the box too
I am shooting for a fit that is self supporting but slowly will let gravity pull it apart.

Houston, we had a brain fart somehow
 This is not short. That would be like saying the Grand Canyon is a small ditch.

5/16" short
The far right mark is what it should be and the one to the left is what I measured last night. This first bottom is right on that measurement. I don't have a clue as to how I did this. This is the method I use to make all my bottoms that are captive in a groove. A minor set back and easy to recover from but it still sucks.

get this width right on the money
the first one fits on the length
I measured for the length and the width the same way. Why did one come out and other come up 5/16" short?

sawed and squared the new bottom
ran my gauge lines
I didn't need to run the depth line because the rabbet plane was still set to depth.


new bottom done

fitted
a look at the bottom - rabbet is 3/8 wide to minimize how much shows
getting ready to glue it up
Cleaning up the interior is a step that I sometimes forget to do.

used the ready made stuff
I like using this type of hide glue for dovetails. It gives me enough time to work slowly and get glue applied to everything. And still have time to reposition if necessary.

had it square
I squared the box and started to apply clamps to the front. After two clamps were on, the box went out of square. The joints are tight and I don't see any gaps so I squared the box again and left it as is till it sets.

has to be square
If this isn't square, fitting the sliding lid will be a lot of fun.

gaps on the dovetails on the interior
This is one aspect of dovetailing I seem to be going backwards on.


I can't complain about this fit
the difference in 6 years
The box on the right I sawed with a 14° Lee Valley dovetail sawing guide and a japanese style saw. The left one has dovetails at a ? angle that I sawed by hand with no guide. Both were chopped out with chisels. Practice makes a big difference in attaining any skill and I think I paid my dues.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a hesperidium?
answer - the fruit of a citrus tree (lemon,oranges,limes....)

plow plane box pt II........

Tue, 08/29/2017 - 1:34am
In april of 2011 I finally made my first dovetail box. I had started to teach myself how to do dovetails in feb of 2011 by making boxes. One crappy box after another. But one thing I noticed was that each one was a little less crappy then the preceding one. I still wasn't getting a complete box but I was closing in on it.  Tonight I dry fitted my umpteenth box and I thought back to the first one and how it made me feel.

I still have that box and every so often I take it out to look at and compare it to my latest one. I did that tonight. The joints on my first one look like the ones I did tonight. My confidence in myself to whack out a set of dovetails is way higher than then. I saw faster without hesitating and I  chop the pin/tail waste out almost nonchalantly now. I'm comfortable doing dovetails whether they are through or half blinds. I still get that feeling now everytime I put a box together off the saw.

prepping my chisels
When I layout my dovetails, I do them without checking to make sure a chisel mates up perfectly for chopping the pin and tails.  These 3 chisels will fit in all the pins and tails. I did a quick hone and a strop of them before chopping them out.

dry fitted
I didn't get it off the saw. I had to trim 4 pins before I got the corners home.

quick check on the contents fitting
I made this box a little tighter on the interior than I normally do. Everything fits without rubbing against it's neighbor and I don't see any problems with putting things in or taking them out.

one block doing triple duty
I plan on making a slot to hold the conversion fence (for irons larger then 3/8").  One hole for the brass screw and two holes for the fence rods to sit in. I'm thinking of using a block with a slot in it to hold the plane too. The box with the irons will probably hang out loose up against the back wall.

this is getting better too
One of first things I improved on was closing the gap on the half pins and I'm improving on my corners lining up. This is the top and it's about a 32nd shy? The other side is flush.

3 flush and 1 shy on the bottom
bottom
I flushed the bottom and checked it for twist. I left it in the clamps so I wouldn't have to take it out of them and put it back. No twist on the bottom.

top
I was having trouble seeing any twist by sighting over the sticks from the end of the bench.

there was a tiny bit of twist
The far left corner and the right front one are high. I took a couple of very thin see through shavings and checked it again. It took 3 dance steps before there was any joy and no twist.

set my distance from the edge and the depth
This plow plane is an absolute joy to use. After using the Record 405 (Stanley 45 equivalent) it's like going from riding a bike to driving a car. It is nimble, light, easier to set and change over and I find it so much easier to plow a groove with it.

plowed my grooves
I went with the grooves plowed straight on through. I like stopped grooves but I also like plugging the holes with a dark wood. The contrast between the white pine and walnut (if I have any) will look good. If I don't have walnut, I have some padauk I can use.

length for the bottom stick
I had the other side installed and I squared the both of them before I cut this stick to fit inbetween the grooves.

repeat for the short dimension
Tomorrow I'll make the bottom and hopefully get this glued up. I should have this done by the weekend at the latest.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the country once known as Burma now called?
answer - Myanmar

sunday shop work.......

Mon, 08/28/2017 - 1:34am
It was a beautiful day in my part of the universe. Bright sunshine, blue skies with fluffy clouds, and temps in the 70's with no humidity. I could take days like this 365 without any whimpering at all. But it won't last as fall is upcoming and than my 63rd winter. I'm getting old now that I can say, ".....55 years ago, I was ......" but I guess I'm lucky that I can still remember it too.

trying a bigger starter hole
 I tried one size up from 5/32 to see if a slightly larger starter hole would make a difference. I got the 12v cordless to work on tapping the hole. The key is to not go too long in one direction. Go down a little and back it off and repeat. Kind of like tapping metal and reversing to clear chips.

only got about an extra 1/8" with just my fingers
went up to the next sized hole
 Continuing with the wood tap and in an identical sized hole I will try a metal, 1/4-20 tap.

roughly half way but still not deep enough for finger work
the 1/4-20 wins
I can screw this all the way down and all the way out with just finger pressure.

this is still a good tap
This is a good tool but it won't work in the way I want it too. For making jigs and making a secure wood to wood connection with a metal screw or bolt, this wins over the 1/4-20 tap. Both have a place in my shop. I'll be using these taps when I install my hardware on the new workbench.


gaps to fill
 I am going to add a filler in the gap on the side that the 1/4-20 thumbscrew is. If not I could dish the 1/8" panel and possibly damage it. Up in the air as to whether or not the other one will be done.

sawing out a filler piece
flushed the plywood panels to the bottom
sized the filler side to side

set the marking gauge off the pencil line on the block of wood
ran my gauge line and I'm going to try and split off the waste
it worked much better that I expected it
I had to split off the waste by chopping it 1/2 way from the top and then the bottom.

planed it down to the gauge lines
it fits but it is too snug
I want a bit of daylight between the filler and the drill caddy block so it will slip in and out easily.

planed a bit more and glued it in place
slight round over on the top
finished it with some 100 grit sandpaper
much nicer feeling now
layout for the 1/4-20 and drilled a pilot hole through both
two different sized holes drilled next
A 17/64" hole for the thumbscrew in the cover and a 7/32 hole in the drill caddy for tapping it.

hole tapped
I started the tapping of the hole with the tap in the drill press. I went down just far enough to get it going straight and square and finished it by hand.

will they line up?
yes they did
this is going to work good for this
a coat of poly
I would have used shellac on this but the numbers on the drill caddy were done with a sharpie. Sharpie's ink is alcohol based and shellac smears it. After this first coat has dried overnight, I'll put on a few coats of shellac and this will be done.

new shelf for the finishing cabinet
It is just shy on the width of the cabinet and it is 2" longer than needed. I planed this top edge flat and square.

neither end is square
I sawed it to length about a 1/8" strong.

squared up the ends
It took a few dance steps involving plane and check the fit before it did.

new shelf done
I stuck the smaller width one that was here up behind the cabinet at the top. See the end sticking out?

sanded and planed the aris off
I am thinking of painting this the same color as the finishing cabinet but I'm going to hold off on it.  I don't know if the paint color will interfere with my sighting over the winding sticks.

lost the measurements for the box - height redone
length done
width done
double check on the width
height laid out
waste sawn off
4 box parts sawn
ran into a hiccup
I was having a few problems squaring the ends up on the box parts. The height wasn't parallel so I couldn't square the ends up and have the two match. Planing multiple parts to be the same width continues to slap me upside the head. Sometimes I nail it but most of the time I get a mismatch.

I ran all the box parts through the tablesaw to get them parallel. I was then able to square the ends and have them all match up and be flush with each other.

got my continuous grain flow around the box
The grain on this wood is not that pronounced but you can see it. Maybe it will pop a bit more when a finish is applied.

my first one
used it to check where the tails and pins go
prepping my chisels for the dovetailing
stopped here
Tails are chopped and the pins are sawn and the baselines have been knifed. All I have to do is chop them out. That will happen tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is boustrophedon?
answer - writing in alternate directions one line to the next (ie one line R to L and the next L to R)

saturday in pics.....

Sun, 08/27/2017 - 2:48am
Today's output will be a pic post with captions like I did last weekend.  I got one project done, started another one, and finally expended some calories on planing the plow plane box boards to thickness. I ended my shop day by playing with some molding planes. All and all a good day in the shop.

screws to reinforce the brush box hangers
no back needed - the cabinet side will be the back
planed the door and the box until I got a seamless joint line - this is the hinge side
hinge from Ace Hardware - not too crappy for the $$$
fairly thick with a big hinge pin
I'm getting much better at installing hinges
the first of a couple of brain farts
I set the hinge on the wrong side of the tic mark.

brain fart #2 - hinged the door on the wrong side
I wanted the door to open going from the other side. This will still work because the door opens 180°.

hinges set and I marked the door for the overhang
the top and bottom aren't planed flush but the long side was
square and about a 32nd proud - this way I won't see the inside frame of the box with it closed
hung
This was a huge PITA to get hung. Most of the headaches came from me working in a dark area and not being able to clearly see what I was doing. Reading the bubble on the level was almost impossible to see even with a flashlight. &&^#&**$!&*)(*&$#%^ cataracts.

got room for a couple of more brushes - I can hang some on the door too
one last problem - the bottom hinge is hinge bound - the door won't lay flat
I made the mortise too deep for this hinge. I put a couple of pieces of cardboard from a tissue box behind the hinge to build up the mortise.

magnetic catch
I have two of these on my medicine cabinet and I'm not impressed with them. The brush box door stays closed without a catch so I'll skip a catch on it for now.

drill caddy is next - scrap of ash and it needs 8 holes
needed help with the 10mm bit
I finally found a big drill bit that was a bit over 10mm. I wallowed the bit some as I drilled it to give some slop in the hole. It was a bit too snug drilled straight through.

holes done

drilled these two again - not enough slop for my liking
box slip on cover coming - plowed 1/8" grooves on both edges
I don't have anyplace to keep the drill caddy in the shop that would be safe. I don't want the bits getting damaged so I am making a slip on cover for the drill caddy.

fence is square to the ledge but the board is off square
squared the fence to plane
dead nuts square now
need a recess for the side to slip over the caddy
This will key the two parts together and keep the drill caddy from flopping around.

hand chopped the recess about an 1/8" deep
it's a loose fit
router got both recesses to the same depth
dry fit of the sides
slips over the drill caddy easily - there is no bottom on this
mitering the top
left the lines
planed to the same length
marking the top a bit long and I'll plane it to fit
what I have to plane off
dry fit is good and it is square - glued it up and set it aside
I will secure the half box on the drill caddy with a 1/4-20 thumbscrew
I have four different taps made specifically for making threads in wood.

I done threads in wood before with good results
comes with a chart
chamfered the top edge and the holes
labeled
#6 used first to get close to the lines
low area
I avoided planing this until I got the rest of the gauge lines to be close to this low spot.

switched to the #5 here, then the 4 1/2, and finally the #3
the thicknessing herd
both boards to thickness - tomorrow I can start to make the box
stickered overnight
Tomorrow these will be ready to start on the box. If all is well I will smooth the reference face with the #3 and make a box.

decided to make a practice run on this
had to switch drills
My 12v cordless couldn't handle drilling the tap in and out. It went in to this point and gave up. It wouldn't back it out or go down further. The corded drill didn't have any problems running the tap in and out of this ash.

as far as I can get it with my fingers - about a 1/4"

had to use pliers to get in this far and back it out
I don't think this this tap is made for use where the screw/bolt is to be removed on a regular basis. I may have to come up with another option of this.

looks a half of  an astragal profile
back of the iron - pretty clean
front of the iron - not very sharp but relatively clean

I know this has a quirk but not I'm sure what the name of this profile is
back of the iron
the front - looks sharp but it isn't
this is what matters the most
In my limited experience with molding planes I have found that dull is not a deal killer. What is, is the iron and the sole match up. This iron is on the dull side but it still planed the profile and the match between the iron and the sole is real good.

found another plane with the same profile but smaller
bottom left and top right
I don't see enough of  difference to see the need to have both of these.

 burr on the back
looks like this side has some kind of bluing on it
it looks ratty looking but it is in pretty good shape
the boxing on the back of the mouth is loose
This side I can pull it out and the other one, just up and down a little by the mouth. Both of these are easy to fix.

couldn't get the profile
This plane has no spring lines nor an edge to ride against the edge of the board. Maybe this one is meant to be used with a fence or against a molded edge?

worse looking iron so far
back side - ten minutes on the stones and this will look totally different
what is stamped on the plane
This plane has my attention - how do you plane a profile with it?
tried using the bevel on the edge and got nowhere
I will rehab this one first because I want to figure out how to use it.  And this was the end of my day in the shop on saturday.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the only bird that can fly backwards?
answer - the hummingbird

brush box pt 1.......

Sat, 08/26/2017 - 12:36am
Is winter coming early? It has gone from hot and muggy days to cool nights. The last two nights were in the high 50'sF (13°C). Tonight is supposed to dip down to 55°F. Labor day is right around the corner which means 6 more weeks and the trees will be turning colors and dropping leaves. I like the seasons here in New England but I can't wait until I'm retired so I won't care what is on the ground.

24" x 30" 9mm (3/8") plywood
I got this from Woodcraft and it was $13and change. I could have gotten a smaller piece but what I don't use for the plow plane box I'll save for later boxes.

I got asked why plywood for the bottom and not solid wood. After all I'm a wanna be hand tool woodworker? I plan on gluing blocks in the box to hold the plane and the two fences. With plywood I can ignore expansion and contraction issues. I can also ignore any potential problems with any cross grain gluing. Plywood gives me freedom to position gluing blocks wherever I need them. I think the plywood bottom will be stronger too.


from last night
After I had glued up the box last night, I came back to the shop to check it out. I had noticed when gluing it that it was twisted a lot more than I wanted it to be. So 30 minutes later I clamped the box down to a board and let that set up until tonight. Now is the moment of truth and will the box still be flat on the board?

I got lucky
I was not expecting this to work this well. I looking for some spring back when the clamps came off but I got none. I flipped the box over onto the other side and it laid flat there too.


plenty of room
I knew it would be way too long but it's good to see all 3 fit side by side.

it's eventual home
Next batter is how to keep on the side of the cabinet?


it isn't laying flat anymore
I planed the top and bottom and it looks like I planed some twist back into it.

this confirmed the twist
Both sides were twisted at the same corners. I got rid of one side fairly quickly but this side is throwing a hissy fit. I want to minimize how much I remove so that I don't plane too much and thin the half pins anymore than I have to.

halved the twist check
Three trimming runs and I still had a bit of twist. The far right corner was reading high. On this half check there is no twist. The 1/2 check to other end has twist. It took two plane trimming dance steps to get rid of it.

checked the long sides too
I wasn't expecting twist this way and I was mostly checking for a hump. I had neither of them.

bottom fitted
I want to secure the box to the cabinet side at the top and bottom. I will glue two pieces of wood in the box and screw them to the cabinet securing the box flat and tight.

sawing out the top one
The bottom one is a 1 1/2" wide but the top one is 2 1/4" wide. The top one will doing double duty. One it will be holding the box up and two, it will be where the brushes will hang from.

the twisted board from the plow plane box
The width is almost perfect and the length is over about 4" or so. I'll try using it as the door for this because it is shop project.

it makes a difference which face is up
gap here and at the bottom short edge
opposite face up
It isn't perfect but more that adequate to use. It is laying flat with almost no gap 360 with this face up (the reference face). We'll see if there is any change come tomorrow when I hinge it.

my hinge choices are a bit slim
I only have one of the brass hinges and that is what I really wanted to go with. The no mortise hinges leave a gap whereas the brass one won't. The no mortise hinges tend to get hinge bound because the countersink for the screw head is too small and it won't allow the hinge to close up flat.

another hiccup
The hinge is a bit wider than the edge which will make it a fun adventure to install. If I make the right edge flush with the interior, the two middle screws will be to close to the outside edge. The brass hinge isn't without it's problems with the biggest one being it's stamped. That makes it flimsy but it should be alright for this light weight door. I'll have to make pit stop at Ace Hardware and see what they have for sale.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a gyne?
answer - A female social insect (bee, wasp,ant,etc) that has the potential to become a reproductive queen.

a brush box et al.......

Fri, 08/25/2017 - 1:26am
I've been thinking about where to stow my shellac brushes. I had made the large drawer in the finishing cabinet specifically for them but now that it is done, I don't like that anymore. The next place that I looked at was the door until I got a comment from Nathan on how was I going to stop them from swinging? So I think I came up with a good, final solution. It fits the main criteria I had for them being in covered storage and readily accessible. But I have twist to it that I'll get to later in the blog.

out of the way
This is a good spot for my big panel gauge. It will mark out to 38" at it's maximum but it is hard to stow. I had it on the other side and moved it to here. I made this in my bigger has to be better phase.

first hanger
Too big and it is plain ugly looking. The hanger sticks out too much  and I would need something else to keep the brushes from swinging when the door is opened and closed.

they will fit in this spot on a nail
The brushes hanging on the inside of the door is dead. I have this space here because of the short width shelf but that is changing. I can stand in front of the cabinet and easily see into the bottom shelf corners with it hanging at this height. There isn't a need for the short width shelf so I'm going to make a full width shelf to replace it. I'll save this one on top of the cabinet.

next choice
I have room to hang the brushes on this side of the cabinet but they won't be covered. On the flip side of the coin I don't have to worry about them swinging.

this would work (box not to scale)
I can make a box to hang on the cabinet and put the brushes in that.

the et al.....
These are latches for a door and I thought they were a hell of lot bigger than this. The 15/64" size in the catalog didn't register and I got fooled by the 64th big number. I'll keep these for a small box and try them out on that. Maybe I can use them on the brush box?

gave in a bought a metric set
I have a 10mm bit for my clock movements and a couple of larger ones (14 & 16 mm) but not a basic set. This is a brad point set from 3mm to 10mm. I'll make a box or a caddy to put these in/on somewhere on down the road.


having no luck with this
scallops
This side isn't too bad but the other side has wider spaced and bigger ones. How did that happen?  I'm having no luck finding a machine shop that will mill this flat and square (I would separate the blade from the spine first). Trying to saw with this will be a PITA not to mention they will ruin the roller bearings it'll ride on.

$25
I got this from Timeless Tools and Treasures Store. I am not compensated in any way for this; it is good site to buy vintage tools from. I have been buying from this site for several years. It is one of the 3 tool sites I check every single day.

dead nuts straight
No kinks, bows , or bends. No etch or name on it but it is a clean, rust free saw with a good balance.

could use some help
The tooth line is a little funky but it is sharp with what feels like a reasonably even set.

my miter box awaits it somewhere underneath the wood
If it doesn't fit I'll use the saw to practice filing on.

the last et al......
I bought an almost complete Stanley 71 from Josh at hyperkitten. The only thing missing is the 1/4" iron but I've seen them now and again for sale. The fence has a modern screw in it that I'll have to replace.

the big iron is sharp but grungy looking
nickel plated instead of brass
depth rod is sticky
I'll sand this with 600 grit and see how that works with making it slide smoothly. As is it won't move unless I thump on it.


two problems on the spear point iron
The facets aren't even and the screw is frozen. I hit it with some PB Blaster but I couldn't budge it. I'll let it soak overnight and try it again tomorrow. If there is no joy, I'll try heat to break it free.

breaking it down to parade rest
This router is for my grandson's tool chest. It is in pretty good shape so I won't have to do much to it to get it rehabbed.

stock for the brush box
sawed the one tail on both sides together
pins chopped out

glued and setting up
I had no problems squaring the box up but it would not stay square. I clamped a square on the long corner and I'll leave this until tomorrow. The box is 14" x 7". It is going to need a long and skinny door.

I saved it from the garbage
When I was putting out the garbage on thursday, I pulled this out of the shit can. I couldn't bring myself to toss it and I'll try and use it for something else. All the pissed off feelings I had towards this are gone now.



I got the new stock gauged for thickness at 9/16". 5/8 was awfully close and there were a few spots where the knife wasn't biting on any wood. I need a continuous line 360 to guide me when planing to thickness. I'll do the thicknessing tomorrow after work.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Which US President had the oath of office administered to him by his father?
answer - Calvin Coolidge was sworn in by his justice of the peace father in 1923


PS Made a mistake on the Timeless Tools and Treasure blurb. I was not (I forgot the not) paid for that nor would I accept one. I want this blog to be ad free and solely of my opinions.

how I designed the finishing cabinet.......

Thu, 08/24/2017 - 6:53am
The first thing I decided was that I wanted a cabinet and not a shelf or a shelving unit. I am a wee bit nutso on keeping dust off of things so I prefer covered storage if possible. And a cabinet with a door I can close fits that bill.  I also wanted one that I could hang on the wall and stow all my finishing supplies in it. This cabinet project started with me wanting to find someplace to stow my shellac brushes in some kind of covered space and still have them accessible. Not that I need an excuse to make something but this time I identified a need for it.

Before the cabinet was made I had a bazillion cans of finish and other ancillary finishing crap scattered over this corner of the shop. A real eye sore and a PITA at times trying to find something. This was the second driving force for the cabinet. Making it would free up a lot of horizontal storage real estate that I can fill up with other shop crappola. Of which I seem to be able to generate an over abundance of.

was cleared off and now slowly filling back up
The next step was locating a spot for it in my phone booth sized shop. I wanted it reasonably close to the bench so I wouldn't have to pack a lunch to go to it. This was the hardest thing to do. I don't have a lot of vacant wall space but by removing an existing shelf, I got a hole to stick it in. Once the hole was established I measured it to get a rough idea of how big I could make it. With a rough idea of how large of a cabinet I could make, I turned my limited attention span to what I wanted to put in it.

That entailed putting on the workbench all the cans, brushes, jars, boxes, etc that I wanted to put in the cabinet. Moving things around, spreading them out, and stacking them on each other gave me a visual for how tall, wide, and deep to make the cabinet. I played with this until the measurements I got were to my liking and fit the stuff I wanted in the cabinet.

This cabinet is just a big box. If you can make a small box then making this shouldn't be a problem. You can dovetail the corners, use butt joints with nails or screws, rabbet joints, finger joints, through mortise and tenons, or in my case, a rabbeted tongue joint. I have made a lot of cabinets with this joint and this time I made them by hand.

scraped off a blob of paint and I can't seem to remember to paint it again -  this is want I call a rabbeted tongue joint
The interior space is based on what is going in it. I wanted some drawers in mine and in the end I made 2. One small one and a large one about twice the size of the smaller one. I like the asymmetrical look of this. My original drawer count was 5, pared down to 3, and finally the two.

I am not a fan of adjustable shelving because I don't like the multiple holes that you see. Shelf standards aren't much better. With either one, you don't get that invisible look as to how is the shelf holding itself up? But fixed shelving would have locked me into something I wouldn't be able to change down the road. I put in two adjustable shelves with the necessary pin holes that will allow me put a shelf within 6" of the top and 8" of the bottom. One shelf is not as wide as the other to allow easier eyeballing of what is beneath it. I don't want anything to die in some dark corner of the bottom shelf because I couldn't see it.

my offset shelves

Now that I knew what size to make the cabinet it was time to do the joinery. I had already decided on a rabbeted tongue joint. But it doesn't matter and don't let the size of it intimidate you. It is just a big box. Again, if you can make a small one, you can make a big one.

If you are having problems visualizing what  21" W x 28" T x 11 1/2" D looks like hanging on the wall, make one out cardboard boxes. Duct tape pieces together until you get the size and tape it to the wall where you want to put it. Look for anything that may be in way of the door swing? Don't forget to look above for catch points. Look too to see how you have the cabinet positioned in relation to the overhead and what is beneath it.

In my case I had a floor cabinet there and my first placement left only 5" between the two. I wanted at least at foot so I had to raise the cabinet up. With raising the cabinet up, I lost the space on top of it to put my radio on. My cabinet ended up within a couple of inches of the floor joists. I had to make another shelf to hold the radio but that wasn't too bad of an issue to deal with.

Carcass figured out and now it was time to work on the door. I decided on a two panel, frame and panel door. You can put the panels in horizontally but on a door like this I think that would look funny. And I'm not a fan of ladder style doors neither. I used two vertical panels with a center stile.

Due to the width of the door I nixed using a single panel, be it a single board or a glued up one. From an aesthetic point (mine) I thought a single panel would look awkward and out of place. Then there is the strength issue. Would the frame be able to hold the panel flat over time and not distort.

I make my stiles, top rail, and center stiles, all the same size. The bottom rail I make at least a 1/2" wider the others. This is something that is open to a lot interpretation based on personal tastes.  I  make the stile width over twice the length of the tenon going into it as a minimum. I usually make blind mortises and I don't use stub tenons. I think that they are too small and aren't anywhere near as strong as the former.

On my door I used 1x4 stock so I based my stiles and rails off of that.  The door is a fairly large one so the scale of stiles fit the scale of the door. I used through tenons on the rails and the center stile. I used through tenons because I chopped them by hand because I thought those would be easier to do than a blind mortise (my first chopping of mortises by hand). I used through tenons on the center stile for strength and to help keep the door frame flat.

I made my door a 1/4" wider than the width and 1 1/4" longer than the top to bottom length. The width was planed off flush after the door was hung. I left the overhang on the bottom because that is my 'handle'. I didn't use a knob or handle on the front of this door. If I hadn't done this, then I would have made the door over sized the same as the width. That would have allowed wiggle room for fitting the door to the actual opening.

my door 'handle'

The width of the stile and riles vary with me according to the size of the opening the door will cover. I do it strictly by eye. I don't use any Fibonacci ratios or Pythagorean formulas.  If it looks good and I mean not too skinny nor too fat (wide), I'm good. There are lot of design books available on line and most are based on ancient design forms. They have lots of rules and regulations on stiles and rails and the sizing of most other things. I say that is nice but if it looks good to you, go with it. Why should someone else tell me what I think looks good?

The last decision I made on the door were the panels. There are a lot of different choices that can be made here. First one I thought of was a flat panel of solid wood sized to fit the grooves. Another choice is a 3/4" thick solid wood panel with a rabbet that fits the groove (plywood would also work too). The rabbet could face in or out depending upon your preference. Of the two, I think the rabbeted panel is a better choice. It is thicker and stronger than a 1/4" thick panel.

A raised panel is a traditional choice and it was what I used. I have a molding plane to make raised panels and that is what I used. There are a lot of hand or machine made panel making options to pick and choose from. One panel choice at the top of my to do list is a oval or circular panel in place of flat bevels. I like this one much more than the beveled panels and I have made them in the past with a horizontal router table with a special panel raising bit. And the circular ones can be made to fit the grooves exactly with out having to rabbet the back.

With all the decisions made on what and how, I went to the shop and  made it. Although making it was spread out over a week or two, I don't think the total time to make it was much more than 14-16 hours.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first president to have the oath of office administered by the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court?
answer - our second president, John Adams

planing to thickness, round III.....

Wed, 08/23/2017 - 1:21am
I thought that the problems I was having with flattening my boards to thickness was because it is now the 21st century. The boards were twisted, full of pitch, and a had patches of swirly grain. After planing the twist out of one board 5 times and having it come back on me, I tossed it. I would have bet the ranch the old guys never had these headaches to deal with.

Well I was wrong on that. The old  masters dealt with the same problems I had to. They had to work around stock that wasn't straight, full of pitch, and twisted just like me. Getting wide boards wasn't that easy back then neither. Although I think they did have widths beyond 12" that were common then and the width of most stock was 7/8" not the 3/4" I have to work with.

I read a whole litany of complaints from a woodworker from the 1870's. The author was not a happy camper for sure. He mostly wrote about the quality of the boards and the sellers passing off bad stock as premium. The only thing he didn't mention was case hardened boards. I don't think that they kiln dried wood back then?

another mess to clean
The 5 1/2 is the worse one that I have to clean up.

this is the absolute best thing to use to clean the pitch off the planes
This works effortlessly cleaning the pitch off the planes but this stuff gives me a wicked headache. This is kind of old so the odor wasn't that bad and I survived the clean up without any pain in the brain bucket.

wiped clean
I dampened a rag with the turps and wiped the sole of the 5 1/2 clean. I didn't have to scrape it or hit it with a blue scrubbie.

checking my lid board for twist
There is a bit of twist on the non reference face. It is slight and I'll remove it tomorrow. Tonight I wanted to concentrate on the two new box boards. It is muggy and I want to get one reference face done on both.

where the twist shows up
With the sticks on the ends there is a bit of twist. From the 1/2 way point to the near end there is none. The twist only shows up from the 1/2 point to the far end. I think I have a bit of a hump or a high edge here.

first batter
This board is a huge difference from the first round boards. This is straight grained and has no pitch on either side. It does have a bit of twist on both sides. I picked the one with the smallest amount and planed that until the board didn't rock anymore. I placed that side down and commenced working the opposite one to be the reference face.

flat enough now that I can plane the other face
broke out the #6
This is the way I flatten stock. I go straight across the board and then I criss cross the board from both ends. This usually gets me close to flat. I make one more run going straight across the board and then I plane end to end. This is it for the #6 and I switch to the #5 to plane the humps out left by the #6.

I'm a frog hair past 5/8"
I checked the board for twist after the using the #5 and I had some that I planed out. I may have to settle for 9/16" or less for my final thickness.

5 1/2 with the Ray Iles iron
So far I haven't run across anything with this iron to not like. I can't tell any difference between it or the Stanley iron that came with the plane. The only thing left is to see how long it stays sharp and usable.

I'm done
I know that I am very close here now. I have gotten full width shavings from end to end and across the full width of the board.

far corner is bit high still
I seem to chase my tail on this a bit more than I want to. I check for twist and have none so I check for flat across the width with the plane. Any daylight areas I see under the sole, I plane. Then I check for twist again and I have some again. I go with twist free and live with daylight under the sole.

this is getting better
One thing I found that is helping to reduce the amount of daylight I see is planing straight across the board. I used to be a bit timid doing this but now I do it until I get a full width shaving across the full width and end to end. I tended to be more concerned with maintaining thickness than getting dead flat.

both boards done
The thickness on the two boards is pretty close but I have one more check to do with these before I sticker them. The reference face on both is flat and twist free.


it passed the test
Both reference faces are laying flat on each other with no rocking on any of the corners. It is gap free 360° too. I checked the thickness again and it is looking like I'll have box with 1/2" thick sides.

stickered the boards and shut the lights out early
I wasn't sweating too much but the shop is clammy feeling and I just wanted to veg out in the A/C. Barring these boards from doing anything stupid overnight, I'll plane them to thickness tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Robert R Livingston? (hint he was the Chancellor of New York)
answer - he administrated the oath of office at George Washington's first inauguration

planing to thickness, round II......

Tue, 08/22/2017 - 1:15am
Sunday I thought I had a nice, wide flat board to make my plow plane box out of. The board had a slight cup to it that I couldn't ignore.  It turned out that it was twisted and had a lot of pitch in it too. Before I quit for the day, I had planed the twist out of one side on both and made them flat and straight. I stickered them overnight and continued planing them to thickness tonight.

gauged my line on the thinnest part
I got lucky here as I wanted 5/8 for my thickness and that is want I got. This corner is the thinnest one and the diagonal one is close to the gauge line too, but not as close as this one. That makes the two of these the high corners.

marked it
I want to avoid planing this area until the rest of the gauge line is close to this corner. A couple of X's should help with that.


I have a toothing iron
This worked somewhat on the pine. In the middle of board I have a ton of swirly grain and the iron planed this without tearing out. However, it was very slow going because it wasn't planing out as much as a flat iron was. It could be too that my technique is suspect as this is only my 3rd time using a toothing iron. I went back to the 5 1/2 and attacking the swirl from all angles.


the diagonal corner
This one is as close to the gauge lines as I want to get it. The rest of the field still has a bit more to plane out. Marking the these areas with an X helped out a lot because I had visual on where to avoid planing.

first board almost done - checking my gauge lines
my problem areas
It's been a while since I planed two boards and I was surprised by how much I forgot.  I thought it would be like riding a bike - get on and start pedaling. Not here sports fans. I did remember that I tend to plane down on the ends away from me. The lead in I usually do do good on.

smoothed the first board
In the pic above at the end where my finger is, instead of having planed down, I left a slight hump on the edge. The 4 1/2 was used to smooth the face out and get any areas where I was still proud of the gauge lines.

awfully close to the gauge lines
The opposite side I can just make out the gauge line so I concentrated on getting this edge to the line.

  board #2 and problem #2
I tend to plane a hump in the middle of the board when thicknessing. So I planed a slight hollow in the middle before I did any other planing.


I'm done
Full width shavings from end to end and across the entire width of the board.

one board is twisted still
I didn't check the boards for twist again before I started to thickness them. I looked at them and they looked ok so I went to work on them.

how I found the twist
I had the boards side by side on the bench to check how close the thickness came out. One board was a bit higher and I could tell that it wasn't because it was thicker. It felt like it was curled so I laid one board on the other and the corners rocked. One board laid flat on the bench stayed that way. The other board had developed a twist again and it was the one with the most pitch and the centered swirly grain.

I planed out the twist and checked the boards for flat again. I still had some twist in one board. It wasn't good but it wasn't that bad neither. After planing it again, I had gotten rid of a significant amount of the twist but a small bit remained. I hit the board aggressively this time and got all of the twist out.

almost 9/16" at the thinnest spot
1/2"is the minimum I want to go on the thickness and I may be able to meet that. The plan was to let this sticker overnight and hopefully plane it to 9/16" tomorrow.

been less than 5 minutes later
I watched the board slowly twist it self. I took me 3 tries to remove it and this final check says it is toast. I tossed this board in the shitcan. I didn't even want to save it for the fireplace.

the lid stock
This board was still flat because I checked it before I ran the gauge line. I did my sloped away planing on this end but two out of three isn't bad.  It is surprising how easily this happens and how long it takes for me to realize I did it.

got lucky again
This is the board for the lid and it is longer and wider than what I need. I can easily work around this corner and still have good sound stock to get my lid from.

new stock for the plow plane box
I was going to saw out a new piece of stock to just replace the one bad board. But that would mean I would lose my continuous grain flow around the box.  Not to mention the obvious color differences in the two boards.  After dinner I went back to the shop and sawed out the other board. Tomorrow I'll start from ground zero again with getting the stock to thickness.

I have been thinking about what to use for the bottom of this box. The one problem I have is I don't have a plane iron that will make a groove that fits 1/4" plywood. I don't want to use solid wood for the bottom so that brings me back to plywood.

I remembered a Woodsmith episode where they made a toolbox carcass out of plywood. They routed 1/4" grooves for the shelves and dividers. The plywood shelves and dividers were made from 1/2" plywood that was rabbeted to fit the 1/4" groove. A quick and simple solution to getting a good fit between the groove and the shelves.

That is what I am going to do with my box. I ordered a piece of 3/8" thick baltic birch plywood that I can rabbet and fit in a 1/4" groove I'll put in the box. Since I got to wait for the plywood to come in, I have the time to start at zero again with the thicknessing of the new stock.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Joseph Levitch?
answer - the stage name for comedian Jerry Lewis who passed away yesterday at age 91

my shop day in pics.......

Mon, 08/21/2017 - 1:09am
Today's post is all pics with almost no verbiage except for captions. The plan to get the plow plane box made hit a snag with the stock but there is no deadline there. I got a few other things done and the operative phrase for the next few days is, ".....just how muggy is it?". Been humid the last few days and it is forecasted to be this way well into the upcoming week. Still not as humid as it was last month.

2nd coat of shellac on the door - quiet work time
2nd coat on the drawers and shelves - this is it, no more painting
one more coat to go on the box and it will be done
diagonal brace stock
No butt joints or dovetails. Instead I'm using a rabbet joint.

stock is cupped slightly
sawed in half and almost all the cup is gone - I'm using it as is
chisel to flush the tails and pins and the plane to clean it all up
last time using the cardboard box - no twist in the wooden box
flushing the corners up
if the corners weren't flush I couldn't turn on them with the #7
marked a centerline on the diagonal brace
to line up the corners on it
clamped the brace and knifed the box corner on the brace
sawed off the excess
gauged a line for the rabbet
knife wall made and I sawed the shoulders
sawed the cheeks on the waste side of the line
cheeks and shoulders sawed out
planed to the lines with the tenon plane
first joint looks good
gap on the other one - I had to take one more swipe on the shoulder to square it up
I'll plane the proud after the glue has set up
layout for the second diagonal brace
resisted the urge to take one more swipe
good fit on this end
good fit on this end - this brace was self supporting - glued the braces and set it aside
sizing the box for the plow plane
I wanted to use 1/2" poplar I had but it isn't wide enough. I don't want to glue up stock to make this box.

I have a piece of 1x10 pine that will do the job
this is the tallest object going in the box
I need a 1/2" at the bottom and a 1 3/4" at the top.

adding screws to the diagonal braces for added strength
I am using my new small countersink.

clogged up but it still worked - this might not be made for hand drill use
nice clean and smooth countersink
flushed the proud on the braces
added a spacer between the diagonals braces to keep them from dishing in
done
side by side with the new and the old
#4 rehab - I put the yoke on backwards
#4 for my grandson's tool chest
I like the painted interior of the base
I am going to strip and paint all of my planes now. I just have to find the time to do that.

plane dates from the 1890's and still works flawlessly
my grandson's herd - #3, #4, and a 5 1/4 (so far)
#3 on the end
I got the #3 (at the bottom) from Ken Hatch and I plan on rehabbing it and giving it away. I have 3 of these planes and I don't need a fourth.

plane I got from Ken Hatch - still feeling it out

still having problems planing square with it and correcting it
Every plane I have has it's own personality and quirks I had to get familiar with. This plane is no different and once I get to know it I'm sure we will be the best of friends.

first time for me - box with the grain continuously flowing around it
sawed in two
This stock has a little cup to it that I have to plane out first. Decided to do it with two pieces rather than one large long one (40" long x 10" wide).


using my check it for twist box for the first time and this board is twisted

marked the side sequence on the edge

pine pitch to clean up
This isn't as bad as the board I did a couple of days ago. I'll clean these up and I will sharpen the irons too.

one side flat - tomorrow I'll plane them to thickness
swapping irons and trying out my Ray Iles 5 1/2 replacement iron
trying out my replacement iron from Tools from Japan for the 4 1/2
didn't like the screws
The screws are in the end grain of the spacer and that won't hold and last too long. I replaced the screws with walnut Miller Dowels.

next tool to be rehabbed
I could use this as it is now but after playing with it for 5 minutes or so, I have a bit of learning curve to climb on this. I will rehab it first and make it pretty and start playing with it again.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Daniel Decatur Emmett?
 answer - he wrote the song Dixie (Civil War)









binder box is done........

Sun, 08/20/2017 - 2:05am
Like blogging about the finishing cabinet being done and not done, I'm doing the same with the binder box. It is complete with the exception of getting a few more coats of finish on it. I learned a few things with this box and when I make some more I'll do better. I will definitely be making more boxes this way.

I had some big plans for the doings in the shop today.  I started a new project and I had anticipated getting it done today. That didn't happen but I did come close with it. I got interested in a You Tube documentary on the ancient Egyptians. Of all the ancient peoples, the Egyptians have always fascinated me. If I had gone on to graduate school I think I would have gotten a PhD in Egyptian studies.

I watched two You Tubers on them today. The first one was not quite 2 hours long and the other one (still watching it) is over 3 1/2 hours long. I would watch a little bit, go to the shop, come back and watch a bit more, and go back to the shop. That is how my saturday went until I quit it a little after 1600.

left side pin set proud and dry
right side pin got the same treatment
Now it's time to see if the lid will open and stay open. I kind of know already that it should. I came to back to shop last night at 2000 and tried it. I didn't open the lid all the way, just enough to see it would clear the back of the box. I didn't go all the way because I didn't want to put on undue stress on the tubing before the epoxy on them set up.

it opens and stays there
The lid doesn't go past 90° but it is staying open where it is at. It didn't bind, squeak, protest, or scream ouch when opened neither.

side view
It is a bit tight at the back of the lid where it hits the back of the box. There is a wedging action going on there that is keeping the lid opened. This is something I want to improve on for box #2.

changed washers
I wanted to go with the shiny metal one because it is thicker than the brass ones. The radius I planed on the back of the box matches the shiny metal one perfectly. But the washer could stick up possibly a frog hair or two above the box when installed. Not a good thing and something else to stow in the brain bucket for the second one. BTW it was a PITA and a test of will power getting the brass washers on. The damn things kept falling out so I held them where they should be with a dab of epoxy. I had to hurry on this because I used the five minute stuff.

trying to dome the brass rod
I cut both of the brass pins about an 1/8" short so I could install them slightly proud without bottoming out. But without a nice domed end that I couldn't do. I ran the drill with the pin in it on the 100 grit sandpaper and got nothing. I barely raised a scratch pattern doing this.

had to file the tubing on the hinge arms - the fit was a bit tight
this worked better
I should have done this first and then cut the pins to length. I didn't get the domed look I was shooting for. Firstly, this takes a bit of practice and finesse to do. I don't have any practice doing this and the pin was definitely too short for that too. I didn't want to make new pins so I settled for a different look.

slight conical look
Not as good as a dome look but it is better than something that is flat.

sometimes you have to settle
Doming is the last point to learn on to do before box #2 hits the streets.

the worse rust I have to deal with
This was from me sweating on it. Other than that, I don't have a problem with rust.  I just finished sweeping the floor and cleaning up the tools that I got the pine pitch on was the next batter. I started with the #3 here.

the #80 and the 5 1/2 need attention too
I scraped off the big stuff on these tools with a razor blade. I scrubbed them all with a blue scrubbie kitchen pad soaked in mineral spirits.

the #80 iron needs to have hook done on it.
This is a nice jig for holding the iron while I draw file the bevel at a 45.

easier than doing it this way or low down in the vise
Stanley #80 sharpening instructions
I got these from Bob Demers and they save my bacon everytime because for whatever reason, I can't remember the sequence of steps.  I sharpened both ends and rolled a burr. This is ready to make some fluffy stuff now.

the new project
I've been using this cardboard box to put stock on it to check it for twist. It is light and easy to put on and off the bench but it is cardboard and it is starting to fall apart. I have had making a wooden one on the to do list for a few months now and today it's giving birth.

the stock
I am making this 'box' 2" higher than the cardboard box is. I planed one edge flat and straight and ripped a parallel edge on the tablesaw. I looked at the faces and that is it. No planing to thickness and I didn't check it for twist neither.

squared the ends and shot them to length
pins done
This is about 4 hours after the tails were laid out. Not sawn and chopped, just laid out. My time line for getting this done today is in the crappper.

dry fit looks good
I had to trim one pin way back. This is the first time in a long time I had to trim one so badly. I lost my orientation with the boards somehow and this side was 180 from where it should have been, ie the top and bottom edges were reversed. I laid the tails out with a pair a dividers so all four ends were the same. That is what saved my butt here. But I don't know how the sides got screwed up and out of order.

final brace I ordered came in today's mail
I bought a 6", a 8" and a 10" sweep brace (not all at once but over a couple of weeks). I already had a 12" sweep brace I bought in the late 1970's.  Finding the braces was the easy part. Finding the drivers and countersinks for them is proving to be a bit more elusive. I'm going to try and go cordless on my drilling. I'll have to find a new home for these because the drawer I had the 12" one in is too small for all of them.

thinking about getting a 12" brace too
The 12" brace has a plastic collar for setting the ratchet where as the other 3 are all metal. This may bother me and I may have to buy one without the plastic collar.

cleaned and smoothed the interior
This is a shop appliance so this probably isn't necessary but I want to get in a habit of doing this. I forget to do this sometimes and some habits are hard to break once they are established.

it's square
I am happy with how the tails and pins closed up and I'll let this setup overnight.

diagonal brace
I want to do something to strengthen this. I don't want to go nutso on it because I want to keep the weight of it down also. Option one is a diagonal brace, one on this side and another on the other side going to the opposite corners. I don't use this flat for checking for twist so I don't need to fill that space in for holding stock.

or a half lapped criss cross
I'm leaning in the diagonal camp but how to put them in? Let them in straight or with a dovetail or just a glued and screwed/nailed butt joint. I'll sleep on it and decide tomorrow.

tomorrow's line up
This #4 has been waiting to be finished rehabbing for a couple of weeks. It is going to my grandson for his tool chest so there isn't a big hurry on it. It is basically 99.99% done and just needs to be put back together and shined up.

The second batter is a box for my new Lee Valley plow plane. It's been sitting on the dump table unseen and out of mind. I want to get this in a box and stowed properly.

new spot for the shellac brushes?
With the shelf arrangement I have now, all 3 of the brushes will fit here. I'm not liking the drawer thing at all now even though the big drawer was made specifically for these 3 brushes.

steel wool action
All the bumps and ridges I scraped out a few days ago are back. The lid feels like I didn't do anything at all to it. It has a good sheen from the shellac so I'll steel wool the whole box and put another coat on it. The lid will done after that but I need to get a few more on the box to match the lid's look.

shellac on the door
 I got one coat of shellac on the door front, back, and edges. Plain paint looks good but dust sticks to it and is very hard to dust it off. A couple of coats of shellac will help with that.

painted the edge of the shelf
The interior of the cabinet is staying natural.

painted the drawer fronts
I was going to do the cabinet stuff tomorrow but I stayed in the shop and knocked it out.

Tomorrow I will take my time as the only thing I want to get done is the box for the plow plane.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Where is the the tomb of the Unknown Revolutionary War Soldier located?
answer - Rome, New York

binder box lid work.......

Sat, 08/19/2017 - 1:12am
I spent some time thinking about the box and how clever I was when I came across a potential problem. I had drilled a 5/32 hole through the hinge arm and into the box for the tube. This way I wouldn't have to drill another 1/8" hole and possibly do that off center from the tube. The problem I saw was that I had to saw the tube into two pieces. One for the inside of the box and another for the hinge arm. The brass rod will turn on the inside of these and not touch the wood at all. I  would need the tube to be in two pieces in order for this to happen because the tube will be epoxied to the to box and the hinge arm. Even I could see that the tube being one piece that the hinge would not work that way.

last hinge option came in
This is a shutter latch I got from Lee Valley. I had trouble trying to visualize it's size from the write up (I wanted the keeper disc size - not given) but I bought it anyways. I figured if I didn't use it for this I would toss it in the hardware bin for something else.

it would have been a coin toss
If I had gotten all the door latches at the same time I would have been hard pressed to pick between this and the hook and eye. The latching post fits on the edge of the door as well as the eye plate did.

these #6  screws are too short
On my next Lee Valley order I'll add a package of the #8 screws and see if they are a better fit.

bought some metal cutting countersinks
This are for making countersinks in brass and steel (but not aluminum?). I needed to make some countersinks larger in a metal hinge a few weeks back but I didn't have any. Now I got 3 for a #4 screw up to a #8.

got a small and large 82° countersink for wood too
these are toast
Supposedly these countersinks (first two from the left) are for wood and metal. They didn't work too good in wood and they absolutely sucked at countersinking a metal hinge. I think I got these at Lowes and the big one (3rd from the left) is just for wood and isn't much better neither.

chewed up the big one and it's toast
the small one
This has a few chips on the flutes and I might be able file but I'm not. It's crap and it's going in the circular file can. I have to drill a larger hole for the larger countersink because it won't fit in the hole in the holder.


mangled it
What I thought would happen sawing this happened. I used a fine tooth hacksaw blade and it didn't go through this tubing easily at all. First it was hard to apply pressure to keep it against the stop to keep it in place. Secondly, as I pulled the saw back and tried to go forward, the tube danced all over the bench hook. I didn't completely cut through this but snapped it off after making a partial cut.

this worked and didn't work
I used a piece of brass rod to hammer the brass rod through the tubing to un-deform the mangled end. It worked until the brass rod tried to go through the 1/8" hole in the dowel maker. It didn't have the clearance for it. It did go through enough to clear up the mangled end and make it round again.

got the box ones done
I sawed these differently then my first try. With these two I inserted the brass rod in the tubing and then sawed them off. I sawed the tubing off about an 1/8"shorter than the depth of the hole. This way when I epoxy them in place, I can tap it home until it is flush. I won't have to file it flush and scrape the box and have to refinish that too.

cutting this one isn't going to be easy
worked better this way
I still had problems keeping it up against the fence as I sawed it. I used a piece of 1/4" plywood to do that and that worked marginally better then my fingers did. I was able to saw completely through the tubing and the brass rod this way.

much better looking end on this one
This sawing raised a big burr on the outside but the end isn't all mangled up. It is reasonably round and it should be that way once I punch the brass rod through.

cleaning the burr
The 100 grit sandpaper was useless on the knocking the burr off. I had to use a file for all the deburring action.

trying another way to cut the tubing and rod
I need two more pieces of tubing both a 1/2" long. I don't see myself being able to do that on the bench hook. I drilled a 5/32" hole in this scrap of wood to see how the bandsaw would do on this. No problems and the bandsaw went through it without a hiccup. The end was cleaner and had less of a burr than sawing it by hand.

the best looking end cut so far
I used this metod to saw off my two 1/2" pieces. I drilled two holes in another scrap piece and marked a line a 1/2" from the end to bandsaw on.

two half inch pieces
sawed off the captive pieces
I used a piece of brass rod to punch out the two pieces I need. I forgot to snap a pic of the finished pieces of tubing but on good authority, it wasn't as exciting as it sounds.

epoxying the tubing is batting next and I'm not using the 5 minute stuff
epoxy applicators
The nail is almost as big as the hole with some epoxy on it. I used these extra long toothpicks to apply the epoxy at the bottom of the hole.


tubing epoxied in place
I applied epoxy on the bottom of the tubing on the box and some on the top 1/4" too. On the tubing in the hinge arm I applied epoxy only on the inside top before pushing it all the way home.

both rods are square to the box.

the final steps tomorrow
The first step then will be a dry fit to verify the operation of the lid. Once I know that works and I still have clearance for the lid to go pass 90 and stay there, I'll epoxy the rod in the bottom of the tube in the box. If I have to fix the lid in the future I have enough room between the box and hinge arms to saw the rods off.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the relationship of the man and woman in Grant Wood's painting "American Gothic"?
answer - according to the painter it is father and daughter, not man and wife


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