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Accidental Woodworker

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The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2458125
Updated: 2 hours 31 min ago

Lie Neilsen side rabbet planes.......

Wed, 03/08/2017 - 12:42am
You can't go wrong when there is a lot of shiny brass to gaze upon. My side rabbets came in last night too late to make into the blog so I got to play with them tonight. LN gave me a deal on them since I already had the irons. They sold me the planes sans irons and 3 days later I had them. I briefly looked them over last night after dinner and they looked damn good close up.

how I left them last night
I broke the both of them down to parade rest. The fit and finish is top notch where it counts. This gave me a chance to look at all the individual parts, see how the come apart and how they fit going back together.

blade clamps
Most of the clamp is still rough from casting but the part that sits on top of the iron has been cleaned up and flattened a bit.. I don't know how these stack up against the size of the Stanley 98&99, but I do know the LN irons are much bigger - in the thickness, length, and width.

depth stop
The stop has two raised bumps on the back. The vee shaped bump on the right slides in a groove on the main body. The other raised bump keeps the depth stop parallel to the main body. I would have thought that at least the vee shaped one would have been finished rather then being left rough from the casting.

vertical slot
 The vee shaped bump on the depth stop rides in this groove. This keeps the depth stop vertical and the bottom of it parallel to the bottom of the skate. This groove isn't that deep nor wide. Again I expected the mating bump on the depth stop to be finished at the level of the groove.

LN flattening of the backs
This is one area that Lee Valley excels at. Their backs are dead nuts flat and so shiny you can shave out of them. If I remember right, LN only does the backs up to 400 grit. I shined these two up on 1200 and then the 8K japanese stones.

respectable shine
This is after 10 strokes on the 1200 diamond stone. After this I went to the 8K and tried them out.

99 making wispy shavings
98 making not so wispy shavings
I did not touch the bevels at all but tried them right out of the box. The 99 was sharp and 98 needed a touch up. I did the both of them on the 8K stone first.

10 strokes on the 8K
followed by 20 strokes on the strop
what a difference
I'm getting nice thin, see through shavings from end to end. I had to fiddle with getting the right amount of iron projection which took about 4-5 tries. Once I got that sorted out, the plane sailed through the grain with no hesitation or grabbing.

the depth was a bit tricky
I didn't do so good on this at first. I first dropped the plane in the groove and than set the depth stop. Turns out that there is a better way to do this.

left hand dado
I chewed up the bottom of this dado pretty good with both planes. In spite of being this deep, the planes still shaved the walls. I saw this after I went back to the stones to hone the bevels.

did the same on the right dado

Instead of dropping the plane down into the groove, I looked at this time and held it once the tip of the iron was a frog hair above the bottom. Then I set the depth stop to that. I noticed a difference in the planing. It was smoother and with no dragging.

box is too big for them
I'll keep them in original cardboard box for now
These pieces of wood are left over from the spice rack drawers and I can use them to make a box for the side rabbet planes.

sawing off my test moldings
Two of the boards are too thin so I'm going to plane two more boards to thickness. This will be the first one.

I'll save these
I don't know what I can use these on but I'll put them in the scrap box for now.

one down and one to go
This is what is so exciting to me about hand tool woodworking. I don't think there is a safe way to get this same board to thickness using power tools, safely anyways.  With hand planes there are no restrictions on size.

too thin for the box
 I might be able to get the lid out of these but they are too thin for the box sides.

one board is wonky
it's twisted
Both sides are twisted. Or one side is twisted and the other has a hump. Either way if I correct those hiccups, the board will be too thin to use.

I can get another board out of this
The knot isn't in the way because the board above it is too long.

more than long enough for the front piece.
a tale of two mechanical pencils
The blue one is crap. Initially it works well but as the lead gets shorter it goes south. It is prone to breaking the lead if dropped.  It goes south in big hurry if that happens. New lead is supposed to advance but so far it hasn't happened for me. The lead also has an annoying habit of being pushed back into the pencil as I try to mark with it. In spite of this, I still like mechanical pencils over wooden ones.

I switched over to the papermate pencil and I have been pleasantly surprised by it. It is a thinner lead pencil and it seems to be more robust than the crappy Bic. I haven't had any problems with the lead breaking at all. I can advance or retract the lead by turning the bottom of it. So far a much better pencil for not much more money than the Bic.

sawn to rough length
Nothing beats a #4 for paint removal. Cleaning the plane afterwards sucks, but it works great.

had to remove some twist from this one first
scrubbed it close to the gauge lines
Smoothed it down to lines with the 4 1/2.

sawed the knot off first
I didn't want to plane this knot so I sawed it off before I planed it to thickness.

I'll sticker these until tomorrow. I kind of have an idea for the box I want but I'm sure it'll evolve as I make it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was the first sport in which women were invited to compete in at the Olympics?
answer - tennis at the 1900 games in Paris

new molding plane road tested.......

Tue, 03/07/2017 - 12:32am
Today was cold but not as cold as it was yesterday. It turns out that I was OTL on the weather report big time. Tomorrow (tuesday) it is supposed to start warming up and rain all day off and on. Wednesday is the day the temps are supposed to get close to 60°F (15°C). Along with the warm temps it is supposed to be partly cloudy. I double, triple checked this for accuracy but this is New England. We could also get buried under a blizzard or be hit with a nor'easter. So I'll wait and see what shakes out.

the 79 sold
Someone asked for it but I didn't get the address today. I shipped out the tequila box and had a very pleasant experience at the post office. Both clerks were waiting on customers and I was in and out in less than 5 minutes.  The 79 will go out once I get the address.

Since Wally World is next door to the post office, I made pit stop there too. I needed some moo cow juice and cereal. Wally World has good prices on cereal but didn't have any 2% milk. Sometimes you have to settle and I did with 1% milk.

no interest from anyone
This block plane is like the freckle faced, red headed, cross eyed, stuttering, step child. Nobody loves this or wants it. This is the second time I've tried to unload this so I'll keep it. It does take good shavings and the only hiccup with it is the missing front knob. None of these knobs came close to fitting.

this #4 knob doesn't look that bad
There isn't anything except epoxying this in place that might work securing this knob.  That is all I can think of right now. I'm even doubtful that epoxy would work here.

the stem is threaded
I have a small 1/2" threading tap(s) that might work. It's worth a try. (In hindsight I should have measured it first.)

piece of ash left over from the plane iron storage
 I roughly bandsawed this round and drilled a3/8" hole in the center. It's been over a million moons since I last used this and I'm not sure that I drilled the right sized hole. And did I drill in the right grain orientation too?

starter tap and a bottoming tap
the threads don't look so good
It didn't fit on the stub. It was too loose and I didn't feel any threads engaging.

size of the outside diameter of the threads on the stub
OD of the 1/2" tap
As we would say in the navy, 'don't piss into a head wind if don't want to get wet'. I'll have to think of something else.

flattened the back
This plane came from Josh at Hyperkitten. I wanted to use this plane to profile the fence for the plane storage but it was dull and wouldn't make a shaving. The back flattened quickly and this was the easiest one I've done to date.

very good match between the sole and the iron
done up to 1200
There is a flat on the right and it looks like there is another on the left. There is no flat there, it is a S shape.

flat on the right has a slight hollow
DMT paddles
I tried to use these to sharpen the flat but I stopped. The flat is small and I was afraid that I was rounding it over more than I was getting it flat. Especially worrisome was that I wasn't making the hollow any smaller.

used the stones
I felt until I had the flat on the stone and I pulled it  back towards me. I didn't push it forward at all, just backwards. I did 10 strokes on each of the 3 diamond stones and finished up on the 8K japanese water stone. Then I stropped it.

nice and shiny
stropped the S curve too
the profile
There isn't much of a fence and there are no spring lines to guide me. These planes are a wee bit more temperamental to use then ones with bigger fences or spring lines.

pretty profile
I got my profile but I didn't do it correctly. I have a burnish mark on the top of the board and I shouldn't have any. That burnish mark tells me I did not hold the plane in the right orientation. I had it pitched forward too much inboard over the board and bearing down on that too hard.

that is it for the fence contact area
No matter what, you have keep the same attitude on the plane until plane stops cutting. Moving the plane inboard or outboard even a few degrees will throw the profile off. This is pass #2 and I didn't have any burnish marks on top of the board.

first pass on the bottom and second one on top
Both profiles look good and this is a pretty profile that will look good on an edge.  The bottom shoulder is slanted and the top one is square. That is due to how I held the plane as I went down the board.

close up pic
First pass on the bottom and second one on top.

repeated it on the other edge - passes 3 and 4

better pic of passes 3 and 4
Once I had part of the profile on the edge of the board, I used that to help me plane. I tried to get whatever portion of the profile that was showing even end to end. I have learned a few things about playing with molding planes this past week. I have one profile that I haven't had luck making that I'm going to try it again now.

ready to stow in the plane till
 Before I put any planes back in the plane till I retract the iron. It isn't so much so to protect the iron, I do it mostly to keep the iron from chewing up the shelf the plane rests on.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What are you suffering from if you are hyperthymic?
answer - from being exceptionally positive in  mood and disposition

plane iron storage......

Mon, 03/06/2017 - 12:34am
It was 7 frigging degrees fahrenheit this morning when I woke up. For the non imperial guys, that is minus 13.3 celsius. It is march 5th and we have single digit temperatures before the sun rises. As cold as it was there wasn't any frost on the truck or car. But I did have frost on the inside of the back screen door.  Tomorrow is supposed to get close to 60°F (15.5°C). I guess the in like a lion and out like lamb is playing out now.

chunk of ash
There are 13 dadoes for the iron storage and I didn't want to make it in a softwood. I also didn't want to make it in a wider piece of hardwood. This was the smallest piece of ash I had and I think the width is just right.

backed up the first one
I moved the first dado back to 1 1/2" so I had room to get my hand in here to take it out. First dado is done for the 10 1/2.

2nd dado
I knifed a line and sawed down on them. I'm using this also as an exercise in sawing to a line. I didn't do so good on the first one. The walls are pretty straight but I overshot the depth.

removing the waste with a 1/8" chisel
I did the removal from both sides. I made a vee coming from the bottom going to the top. I kept at it until I flattened it out.

back side of the saw cut
I was trying to end my saw cuts on the gauge line and I did ok on the majority of them. The backsides of the saw cut wandered a bit off the line. Overall, over the 26 saw cuts, they were fairly straight and plumb.

used the saw cuts for the chiseling depth
I couldn't find a router with a 1/8" cutter. LN makes a 3/32" iron as does Lee Valley. Lee Valley makes a 1/16" cutter but neither makes a 1/8" one. This depth isn't critical in that it needs to be dead nuts flat. Close to flat with no rocking is what I'm shooting for.

gave up on the saw cuts
2 done with 11 to go. Already made a change in the spacing. My layout had 3/8" between the dadoes and I changed it 1/2". I found it easier to use the iron themselves to see how flat the bottom was.. The smallest little bump will make them rock.

how I got the dado depth
I set the gauge to be a frog hair under the screw. The 10 1/2 and the #3 were the same, the rest of the irons were all different.

#3 above, this is a 4 1/2"
Each iron increased roughly an 1/8" over the proceeding ones.

it's a rocking
Leveling the bottoms of the dadoes turned out to be much easier to do than I thought it would be. I was able to do all 13 without any major hiccups. I know this one is too high because of the screw. That should be a lot closer to the top of the dado.

two more to do
I have some empty dado slots but they should be filled up next week. I found and ordered two more #4 irons and chipbreakers and a couple of #3 chipbreakers. That will give me 3 iron/chipbreakers to swap out on them. I also ordered a #8 chipbreaker for the solo #8 iron.

I got this many irons because I hate to sharpen. It always seems too that the need to sharpen comes right in the middle of something. With at least two irons for each plane (except for the 10 1/2), I can swap out the dull iron and put in a fresh sharpened one.

my depth gauge
The line on the board is the top of the drawer.  This is the #8 iron and I am just under the wire. The two dadoes for the #8 irons were the deepest ones I had to do.

first hiccup
My saw cut for the LN iron is tapered. It fits on the left side but is a very tight fit on the right.

hiccup #2
The second dado isn't tapered, it's too narrow and the iron won't fit at all. I couldn't find a file or rasp to fit in the dado so I could widen it. Had a crazy thought to chisel the end grain but the chisel wouldn't fit neither. I fixed the two of them on the tablesaw.

they fit snug now
the lineup minus the new kids coming
where they are going to live
A quick couple of in and outs with the drawer and the irons were still in place. (I fixed the one tilted 4 1/2 iron)

cut hazard
I could put the sharp end going the other way up against the drawer side but I like it this way.

need a fence here
it's sharp
I am going to mold the top edge of the fence so it isn't just a square edge.

anointed with blood
rounded over the top edge
this turned out pretty good
screwed it in place from the bottom
The fence is just screwed in place with no glue. I don't won't this to be permanent case I want to change it down the road.

can't screw this
The back is for future expansion so I don't know if a screw will be in the way.  I could put one at the front but I may want to do something there too. I like having this without screws and nails to work around so I had to think of another way of securing this.

OBG and rub blocks
using a practice astragal molding
I sawed this off the board and then sawed off four pieces to use as rub blocks.

I put two blocks at the front and back. That iron holder is a snug fit front to back so the four  rub blocks should keep it from moving.

This is all I did in the shop today. I planned on setting the kitchen sink cabinet but that didn't happen neither. Instead I slept and watched a couple of my DVDs on planes.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Major Walter C Winfield?
answer - He created Sphairistikè in 1873 which became the modern game of tennis

a day of rest......

Sun, 03/05/2017 - 2:09am
After I got home today from doing OT, I was spent. I did not want to get up to go to work this morning. It was a rare day for me in that I knew I could have rolled over and gone back to sleep.  But to work I went, did my time, came home, and felt like a deflated balloon. Another rare occurrence for me was I couldn't get motivated to do do anything in the shop. I tried a couple of things but gave up on doing anything in shop today.

I did finish this
I got the tequila bottle packed in the box and then packed that in another box.

used some of these foam sheets too
I'm sure the box this will get the snot knocked out of it being shipped so I don't want to rely solely on wood shavings. The wooden box will protect the tequila and the foam will help to keep it immobile.

ready to ship
This is packing box #2 because I forgot to add a few things in the first one. The most important one was a piece of paper with the from and to addresses on it. A lesson learned the hard way and I usually always put the to/from addresses in the box now. Just in case the address on the box goes south somehow. I'll ship this out on monday.

next project
This was to be the lead off batter today but the line up got shuffled. The spice rack and paper towel holder are both done and I don't have any other projects from the wife so this will have to wait now. It's going to be a book rack/shelf. I've made several of them in pine and one in poplar. This one will be walnut and cherry.

this became the lead off batter
All of these irons are loose in a drawer right now. That is not a particularly good way to stow them. Decided to do something about and nothing like the present to fix a potential problem. My first thoughts on fixing will shock regular readers - put them in a box?

4 1/2" chipbreaker
I started this last week and today I finished it. I want to try out the 4 1/2" iron I got from 'Tools from Japan'. I need a chipbreaker to do that.

the chipbreaker screw is iffy
I have two more of these that I can try because this one barely catches. I couldn't screw it in then slip the iron over the chipbreaker. I had to position the chipbreaker on the iron first and then screw it together.

wispy shavings out of the box
I didn't do anything to this iron at all. I didn't strop it or flatten the back neither. I couldn't feel a difference in this iron over the one I had in the plane previously.

sailed right through the knot like it wasn't there
I will hone this iron and round the corners off. It came sharpened at 30° where all my other irons are done at 25° (except on LN iron at 30°). I'm not sure if I'll keep it at 30 or slowly change it over to 25.

it works
This is a 45° template that I have tried to use 3 times already without any success. Today I nailed it. The other times I tried it I used the chisel going straight down and the isn't a lot of real estate to guide the chisel. Today I tried a different approach. I started with a freshly sharpened chisel and I started at the top right corner of the guide. I went with a sweeping motion going from the top diagonally down and form the left to the right. Doing that ensured that the back of the chisel was in contact with both legs of the template.

looks good
it's 45°
I haven't had any opportunities for using this but now it's ready to go.

Stanley #120 block plane
It works and makes nice shavings.

the only hiccup
It's missing it's wooden knob. I haven't bothered to go nutso doing a rehab on this. All I did on it was to sharpen the iron a little. I got this on an auction bid that was included with other things I wanted. I tried to sell this before and didn't get any takers. This I'm offering it up for shipping in a flat rate box which I think is about $6.50. If you want it, the first email yada, yada, yada.........

my rehabbed Stanley 79
I spent a lot of time restoring this. When I got it was covered with rust and rust blooms but it cleaned up nicely. Almost 100% of the nickel is still on it too.

the fences were the worse
I had to use heat to get the screws that hold the fences on off. The shoes were rusted in place and I galled the right hand screw a bit getting it out.

it's clean as a whistle now
the iron beds are clean and pit free
I didn't do anything with the irons and this is the same condition I received them in. They are sharp and make shavings.

body is straight
I bought the LN side rabbet planes and I should have them next week according UPS. I thought about keeping the 79 but I don't see the need for it. I am putting it up for adoption and the fee is $40 including shipping in a flat rate box to the lower 48. The drill is the same as above - the first email yada, yada, yada.........

Getting square with hand planes has become an almost given for me now.  I have a friend that is always telling me he can't get square with his planes. He also has a two plugged in jointers and doesn't use his planes as much as I do. I don't have a plug in jointer to fall back on. I have only my planes to get 90 for me.

This hasn't always been the case for me and I've struggled trying to get square edges for many years. I had given up on a lot of attempts and resorted to using my powered jointer. My thoughts on this always go back to the old masters that didn't have the luxury of using a jointer with a plug. They had to plane square or else. It was something they did and it was something I wanted to do.

I think getting square with planes is just a matter of practice. It's like sawing to a line or chiseling dovetails. It is just another skill set that is needed to do hand tool only woodworking. It is only in the last year or so that getting square edges fell into place for me. And I can get it with just about all my bench planes. I still have problems getting square with Lee Valley bevel up jack. I don't use it that often and I don't have good luck correcting for out of square with it neither. I usually have to use the 4 1/2 to fix it.

I really don't know what my technique is, I just know that one day I planed an edge and felt like it was square. When I checked it the edge was square end to end. I seem to be an automatic mode when I plane and I'm sure it is memory and practice paying off.

back to the regularly scheduled TV channel
Scrapped the box idea and now I'm going with sticking them in the drawer.  I need room for 13 irons and I have 15" front to back in the drawer. This layout is for 3/16" grooves and needs only about 9" total length.

#8 iron and chipbreaker
A bit too loose causing the the iron to flop around. I want these to stay in place as I open and close the drawer.

dropped down to 1/8"
This is a strong 1/8". I knifed one of the lines on the waste side. I sawed the walls and cleaned out the waste with a 1/8" chisel.

better fit
It's one frog hair from being snug.

LN irons are loose
4 1/2 iron and chipbreaker
This one is snug and the iron that came from 'Tools from Japan' is tight. That one I have to push down to seat it. It is looking like I am going to have to customize each slot for each iron.

1/8" set up bar
Just realized that I don't have a 1/8" iron for any of my routers. Do they make any that small? I'll be searching for that after this blog is done.

Maybe tomorrow I'll get some woodworking squeezed in and not have another rambling, ping pong adventure like today.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Roger Bannister was the first runner to break the 4 minute mile. How long did he hold the world record?
answer - 46 days

molding plane work......

Sat, 03/04/2017 - 1:44am
I have acquired quite a herd of molding planes over the past couple of years. Some of them I don't have any problems using and others make me feel as smart as a box of rocks. I want to be able to reach into my molding plane till, pull out any plane, and use it. So far that is hit or miss but I am making progress. I am more of a do and learn type then I am a read, do and learn one. What I learn by just doing sticks with me more than the printed word does.

first batter
I bought this based on the profile and the price which I think was around $10. When I first got it, it worked on my first attempt. Turns out that was pure dumb luck on my part. I have tried it several times since then without even getting a shaving.

I learned a few things from playing with the other molding planes and I am going to see if any of that pays off here.  First I got the iron set so that it showing about the same reveal along the whole profile. I have also learned that the fraction stamped on this plane is the profile size and not the thickness of stock it will plane.

planed this profile on wednesday
I got this planed and now it's time to see if I can repeat it. Which is something I haven't done with this plane since I got it.

I set the iron deeper
I could barely feel the iron here at the top when I ran my finger tips over it. This is the portion of the iron that cuts first. If this doesn't take any shavings at first, this plane isn't going anywhere.

it's obvious viewed from here
This is something that I didn't think of when I tried to plane with this and couldn't. I thought it was the wood being too thick.

bottom of the plane is cutting
The plane will continue to drop down as long as this portion of the iron is cutting. After this cove is started the inside edge of the profile starts cutting.

plane stopped making shavings here
I know now that no shavings means the iron probably reveal isn't high enough.

set it deeper
The cove portion at the top is done cutting for now and the side of the cove needs to be proud so it can start cutting. I set the iron a bit deeper to increase the iron's reveal.

it's making shavings again
50% done
The plane is still taking shavings but were small.  I had to advance the iron a bit more to complete the S shape.

making shavings again after setting the iron

I'm not happy with how much is sticking up at the bottom
almost got the entire S shape
bit flat at the top here and it should be rounded

I did it. I repeated making the profile twice in a row.  I am making progress on using these but not at a speed I like. But you have to crawl before you walk.

I had to set the iron several times
Don't go nutso on me saying I used the wrong hammer. This was handy when I snapped this pic. I use my plastic mallet for all my tapping on wooden planes.

this reveal made the profile
second plane in the batters circle
Based on what I just did with the first plane, I'm trying for 2 for 2. This profile is a thumbnail with a shoulder.

same operative theory for this one too
The flat on the right cuts first and as the plane drops down, the cove starts to cut too.

raised the flat proud of the sole
going nowhere
This was frustrating to think I was on the right track and get no shavings. The plane dropped down maybe 1/8" and stopped making shavings.

thumbnail planed a thin piece of wood
comparing the reveals
I saw the problem right away. I have a lot of the flat revealed but almost nothing on the cove portion.

this is a nice looking profile
Once I got the reveal upped, I was able to plane the entire profile without having to set the iron again.

how much reveal made the profile
a little rough on the round over
I have noticed that roughness is usually caused by one or two things. The first is the iron being dull which in this case isn't the culprit. The other is the iron is set too deep. Here I think it might be a contributing factor but the grain is squirrely here too.

real bad tear out here by the knot

I was pretty happy with what I got done tonight. I made two profiles that for some time now have eluded me. But I have learned a few things about molding planes and with each use, I'm getting better at figuring out problems and being able to make shavings.

my newest molder
The profile of this iron is mismatched with the sole profile. The big dip is what I scribed and the smaller one is what I think it should be. Before I can fix this to match the plane's profile, I have get it scribed correctly.

With the iron set in the plane as I can it won't plane the profile. The flat is angled the wrong way and the bottom of the cove is up about 1/8". Even with a hydraulic ram pushing the plane, I doubt that you could make a profile.

how I scribed it the first time
why the first scribe line is toast
I didn't see this the first time around. I put the scribe at the mouth and moved it left to right. The scribe dipped down beneath the top level of the mouth and scribed the line too deep.  The scribe can't fit in the thumbnail of the sole so I couldn't accurately scribe the profile.

dental pick will work
This was on the bench so I tried it. It has a flat that I can lay in the bed and maintain it flat on the thumbnail profile while I scribe the entire iron.  I'll erase the layout fluid on the iron and try round two and see what results I get.

recommendation from Bob Demers
I remember Bob Demers telling me that this is some pretty good stuff and that he has been using it for years. On Lee Valley's site I found this. I bought a couple of things from the kit because I had a few of them already.  I bought the turkish towel for rubbing this out.

bought this too
Both of these leave a protective finish but I'm not 100% sure what this one really does. My impression of it that it is a long term protective finish.

medium and fine erasers
These I had and I'll be tossing them in the box with the polish and protective stuff.

got a use for the small box now
test time
I like shiny and would like to keep this as shiny as I can. However, through normal shop use this will turn grungy in about a month. The instructions with the Autosol say to apply a small amount in a circular motion and then wipe/buff it off. It warns not to let this dry and to remove it from cracks and crevices with alcohol right away. Then apply more Autosol in the normal fashion and wipe/buff it off.

I'm a impressed
This raised the shine quite a bit. Both the application cloth and the buffing rag were as black as the edge of space when I got done. I did both cheeks and the sole. I will keep an eye on this to see if it drags or anything when I plane something. I will also keep an eye on how long this lasts. If it works, I'll do all my planes with it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
The Frenchman Alfred Vacheron was the first to put a steering wheel on a car in 1894. Who was the first american car maker to do it?
answer - Packard did it in 1899

tequila box done and a rabbet plane.......

Fri, 03/03/2017 - 12:52am
The tequila box is done but it won't be shipping until next week. I put one coat of my new finish on it and it will need one more. Since the post office will be closed by the time I get home from OT on saturday, it'll be shipped out next week sometime.

In the interim, winter has come back to my part of the universe. We have had nice weather with temps in the 50's and 60's for over a week. Saturday is forecasted to have wind chills of 5-10 degrees F (about -13°C). Tonight the temp is going to dip down into the low 20's. This morning when I went to work the temp was 55°F (12°C). That is a quite a swing in one day.

whacked out the thumb grab first
This gouge is getting dull in spite of the bevel looking so shiny. I didn't want to stop to do that so I stropped it. I stuck in the vise and ran the strop over the bevel. It worked and I didn't have any problems making this. Unfortunately, the stropping is a stop gap measure and I will have sharpen this.

planed the 1/4 astragals
The rabbets were deep enough that they didn't limit my planing of these. After I got them done I think I should have made the rabbets narrower.

first coat
I did a quick sanding of the box, dusted it off, and applied the first coat of finish. I like this finish and the slight color it gave the box. It can see a difference between the raw wood and this, especially on the end grain. Tomorrow I'll put on the second coat and brand it.  I'll box it up for shipping this weekend.

making a rabbet
Got a practice board, a marking gauge, and 1 1/4 wooden skew rabbet plane. Hand and eye coordination helps too.

knife a line
This line is the width of the rabbet.

use the point of the iron
You put the tip of the iron in the knife line you just made. The knife line will guide the iron from end to end with help from you.

start with the plane tilted
 Go slowly and keep the iron going in the knife line. It is easier to do than this looks. I started with the plane tilted about 45°.

of course I went off the knife line
I took my eye off of the plane for a second and this happened. The first couple of runs down the knife line you have to pay attention to what you are doing.

I had a small vee started and now I don't have to be as nutso watching to ensure that the plane is going the way I want it to.

wall established
Now as you progress from end to end you can start moving the plane to vertical. It will track down in the vee and plane the rabbet.

just about 90° to board here
big ass escapement hole
But little wimpy shavings coming out of it but that is due to the rabbet size.

not the best board to be planing a rabbet in
This board is knotty from end to end, with a lot of reversing grain. I got teat almost end to end.

except for the LV rabbet plane
I tend to veer inboard with fenceless rabbet planes. More so with this wooden one than with the 10 1/2 and not at all with the Lee Valley rabbet plane. The outboard edge is ragged out but the shoulder is fairly clean. It is step free and sharply defined right into the corner.

the lead in end
I didn't mark a dept for this and I should have. This is encouraging for me. I have a square shoulder and a reasonably flat rabbet on this end.

exit end
Not so good on this end. Not only am I sloping outboard, my shoulder is off square too.

went in the wrong direction
Got the shoulder squared up but I fixed the sloped rabbet by going in the wrong direction. Thank you again, my spatial ability.

Squared off but I now have a rabbet that is sloped down on this end .

I have been looking for a smaller wooden rabbet plane about 5/8" to 7/8" wide. It doesn't matter to me if it is skewed or not but I'm not having any luck. Most of the ones I seen are 1" and above. I'll find one eventually.

Between the wooden rabbet plane and the 10 1/2, I prefer the 10 1/2. I don't have the problems with the 10 1/2 that I do with the wooden one (as bad). Except with both, I do veer off on the exit end of the cut. I could probably even the score if I practiced more with the wooden one. That is why I want a smaller one.

I had put off trying to use planes like this because I thought I would never be able to master their use. They don't hold any secrets from me anymore and it is like any other handtool I've encountered, all it takes is practice. I learned just as much from my mistakes as I did getting good results.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first female athlete to appear in Wheaties "Breakfast of Champions" TV commercial?
answer - Mary Lou Retton in 1984

tequila box.......

Thu, 03/02/2017 - 12:37am
I didn't oversleep today and got up at my normal time at oh dark 30. Still can't believe yesterday that I one, I overslept, and two, did it for so long. In twenty years in the Navy I was late once very early in my career. An old Master Chief chewed on my ass so hard and so long, I didn't have to use toilet paper for 6 months. To this day, I am always early much to the consternation of my wife. And by early I mean if I have an appointment on Monday at 0800, I'm there sunday night at 2330, waiting. Well maybe I exaggerate a bit but I am always early.

$4 brush
I bought a wooden handled, middle of the road cost brush for painting the gallery spindles. I had one of these but my wife found out where I keep my brushes and  borrowed it. She became amnesiac when I asked her about it.

no problem getting behind the spindles with paint
The carcass of the paper towel holder is done. The rod not being done is stopping this from being complete. I keep forgetting that is hanging waiting to be worked on. I need to get one more coat of paint on it and a couple of coats of poly after that. I forgot it again tonight and only thought of it when I saw it as I was shutting the shop lights off. Maybe tomorrow.

out of the clamps
Double, triple checking that the bottle still fits in the box.

rabbets for the lid are next
The lid is about a 1/16 strong over in the width. I made the rabbets first and then planed the width to fit.

much better results
No hump in the middle, and I'm pretty flat and straight end to end. I wasn't getting these results with the LV rabbet plane. I think the 10 1/2 being a bench plane is helping a lot here.

the exit end
I usually slope downwards on this but I am looking pretty good, It is square and close to parallel to the lay out line.

the lead in
This looks pretty good too. I am a frog hair or two higher here then the other end but I'll take this. It is square, parallel to the lay out line, not sloped outboard nor sloped down at the lead in.

planing the shoulders
I just left a hint of the pencil line on the rabbet and planed it off completely on the shoulder.

if need be
I planed both shoulders going from right to left. If need be I could have reset the iron in the plane so I planed from left to right. Can't do that with the LV rabbet plane.

thin web at the bottom of the groove
I have been thinking of this for a while and I decided to plane a shallow rabbet on the bottom of the lid. This is only about a 32nd so I should be able to do it in a couple of strokes. I am shooting for getting the width of the rabbet to be the same as the depth of the groove.

wasn't that hard to do
 The only difficult part was when the toe of the plane went past the end I still had a couple of inches of rabbet left to plane. I was able to plane the rabbet and the pencil line from end to end.

fitting the lid is batting next
This is one aspect of making boxes that I am improving on. For the most part on previous boxes, I got the lid to fit but it was a looser fit in the width or the rabbet then I liked. Here step one is to get a snug fit of the rabbet on the left side here. The ever present step 1A is never take just one more shaving without checking the fit first.

repeat for the right side
Now that the rabbets are snug, I will concentrate on getting the width.

plane two strokes off of each side and check the fit

still too wide
This is where I usually run into trouble. I would go on trying to fit the width and ignore anything else.  I went back to shave two more strokes off of each side and checked the fit again.

fits about 1/4 of the way
I looked at everything here because if I trim the wrong part, on the rabbets or the width, I could end up with a loose, floppy fitting lid. The width looks good from the end of the box and also from the interior. The rabbets on both sides are fitting tight to the top of the grooves. All the trimming of the rabbets will done on the topside. I don't want to change the shallow fit of the bottom ones.

second trial fit
I took one shaving off of each rabbet and it advanced in another 1/2". Had a ways to go yet to get lid closed but instead of rushing it I took my time and evaluated it after each shaving and fit cycle.. Looking in the grooves I can a slight gap on the left and none on the right. I kept planing the rabbets and checking the fit.

getting there
The rabbet is still tight to the top of the groove and the gap I had in the width disappeared. I took one stroke on each edge for the width and couple off of the rabbets just on the back 1/3 of the lid. I had a gap at the front on the top rabbets.

After a bit more fiddling and planing the rabbets one last time with the bullnose plane, I got the lid closed. It's snug and hard to pull open but I'll do the final tweaking of the fit after the lid astragals and thumb grab are done.

bit of blowout
I got some blowout when I planed the back of the lid to fit the back of the box. I was hoping to get all the work on the lid done tonight but it didn't happen. I glued the blowout so I'll have to wait to finish this.

four holes to plug
and one chip missing from a tail

not my best work
These dovetails are some of the loosest and gappiest I've done in a long time. But it is hard to kill dovetails and the box will do it's intended job of keeping the tequila safe while it is in transit.

Putting the blog to bed early and me too. I got my Hayward volume IV yesterday and I'm going to spend some quality time with it before I do the light leak test on the peepers.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was the original name of the game of softball before 1926?
answer - it was called kitten ball from 1895 to 1926

took a day off.......

Wed, 03/01/2017 - 12:50am
I hadn't planned to take the day off, it just happened. Monday night I went to bed at 1830 and I woke up at 0130 to do the toilet trots. I went back to bed and I didn't wake up again until 0855. I have never overslept like this ever.  I called my boss and told I wouldn't be in, but I was feeling better. Which was true. No more woozy feeling so maybe I just needed an equalizer in the bunk to feel better.

Since it was an unplanned day I put it to good use, mostly. I did some work in the shop and on the kitchen, ran some errands and enjoyed my unexpected day off.

glued the gallery rail on
I couldn't beat the spindles into place on the shelf without risking it breaking so I did it this way. I went down the line setting each one a little bit until I had them all seated fully.

tequila box glued up
After I cleaned up the insides, it was fitting a bit too loose for my liking. That is why I went nutso on the clamping. This will sit and cook until tomorrow. I'm hoping to get this finished and in the mail this weekend.

spring isn't too far away
I was coming back from the bank and Lowes when I saw this by my back door.  The daffodils might be blooming in the next week too.

need to fix this
The top switch is a 3 way (toast) and the bottom one is a single pole (ok). Nice neat job but who ever did this got lazy on the ground. Tied them together nicely but nothing tied to the box and it is too short pull out of the box and work on it. I couldn't get the ground from the new switch tied to it. I had to put a bare copper wire pigtail on it and use that to ground the new outlet. Fixing this was 30 minutes I'll never get back.

more wonderful cabinet rework ahead
I could rack this cabinet with finger pressure.  I had to screw the back into the 1/4" plywood filler to stiffen that up. I then screwed all the plastic corner blocks to back up the useless staples. I added a couple of screws at the top and bottom on sides at the back. The cabinet is a lot tighter now and I feel better about putting the sink on it.

drain and hot/cold feed holes
waste drain hole fix
The waste pipe has a 2" OD and the drilled hole is 3" and it was far to the left. I glued the disk to a scrap piece of poplar. I glued and screwed this to the underside of the cabinet.

quit here
I fixed the first hole and drilled the second hole too far to the right. I let go with a few choice expletives to let it know I wasn't happy and made a date to revisit this tomorrow.

Lie Nielsen side rabbet irons
I just ordered these yesterday and I got them today. And I went with regular UPS shipping.

LN and Stanley irons
The Stanley iron is a lot thinner and the edge that faces down is beveled. The LN irons are longer, thicker, and have no bevels on the long edge that faces down.

the Stanley iron is barely half the thickness of the LN
they don't fit
They aren't even a close fit. They are way too long to criss cross and they are too wide fit in the ramp on the 79. It's looking like I spent $80 for nothing.  Either LN made smaller irons or the guy selling the 79 cut these down to fit. If he did that he had to do the length and width.

curious fact
Both irons are slightly magnetic.

what I did inbetween drilling errant holes
I'm closing in on getting this sector thing sorted out. I break this out every couple of weeks and do a layout, find out it's toast and put it away till the next time. Each time I do a little better than the last outing.

dividing this into fourths
setting the sector at the fourth mark
second divider set to the 1 mark
Without moving the spread on the sector, this divider will be used to step off fourths on the board.

start at one edge and go to other down the square line
1 frog hair short
A lot of people have told me this is ok, but I don't think so. Sectors are a precision mathematical device and they were used to figure out canon fire and to navigate around the globe among other things. Being close in navigation can have you landing in the wrong hemisphere. I want this to come out exactly in four steps.

dividing the board in half
I did something different here. Instead of using the lines that went at an angle, I made another line right on the  inside edge. I first did the fourth division and that came out dead nuts. Here I got the dividers set at the second mark or 1/2 the width. The first step off landed right on the same mark as 2/4 did.

dead nuts again
My first time with getting two different step offs with both being dead nuts.

two lines
I am having better luck with precision with the straight line. With the angled line I get so-so results and I have yet to get repeated dead on results with it. I get close, oh so close, but still no brass ring. I like the angled line over the one that follows the inside edge. I find that one easier to set the dividers on.

erased it
Before I commit to doing this with ink, I want to repeat it a couple of more times and do more extensive testing with the dividers. I'll try it again in few more days to see if I can repeat it.

Two things I have learned so far playing with making a sector is the choice of dividers makes a difference (at least to me). For a long time I used flat leg dividers and got iffy results. They are good for stepping off dovetails but not doing precision steps. My results jumped up dramatically when I started using machinist's dividers. These have conical points instead of flats.

The second point is to step off on a line. Do not try to dance down the length of anything no matter how short, without a line to do it on. Any deviation off the line will throw off the accuracy.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How long does a professional bull rider have to ride the bull to receive a score?
answer - 8 seconds (each ride is worth up to 100 points, 50 for the rider and 50 for the bull)

day III of feeling blah........

Tue, 02/28/2017 - 3:11am
I seem to be right on the cusp of something happening. I feel like crap, then I feel blah, and for a few fleeting moments kind of ok. Sometimes my stomach is queasy feeling and other times I am draining on the porcelain throne. It is a constant ebb and flow between the two states. This rollercoaster crap sucks, because I wish I would be sick and then get over it.

I found something to spend my LN gift certificate on. I had narrowed it down to the #98 & #99 side rabbet planes but I was reluctant to buy them. I have a Stanley 79 which is the two of these rolled into one. I have also read several people writing that side rabbet planes are awkward to hold and use. I have also read a few were it was written they were greater then sliced white bread.  I have never used either one them and I like the 79.

my rehabbed Stanley 79
The only problem I had breathing life back into this were the rusted screws. There are two that hold the front and rear shoes on. They were rusted solid in place and were a bear freeing up. The plane works as advertised now but the irons in it are not sharpened correctly. They still work but not as they were designed to.

only has one bevel
There should be a secondary bevel at the bottom of the toe. That allows the iron to cut cleanly right down into the corner of the rabbit.

not sharpened at the same rate
The left iron has been used more and most likely the former owner was right handed.

the angles are off too
I found a blurb somewhere that gave the correct geometry for sharpening these irons. It was from Stanley but I can't find it now. I know I should bookmark this stuff but I always think I'll have no trouble finding it again. It gave the angle across the face and the tricky bevel at the bottom of the toes.

The Lie Nielsen site has pic of what the iron should look like. I spent my LN gift certificate on buying a left and right side rabbet iron. On one of my frequent trips through the tools for sale sites on the web, I saw a Stanley #79 for sale. It had Lie Nielsen side rabbet irons in it. The seller didn't mention them specifically, but said that the plane worked fine. I'll give the irons a try and see if they work in my 79.

finally done with these
The bigger box is only getting two coats (one light and one heavy one). I like the slight color that it put on these and especially so that it didn't darken the end grain. I don't think that I would use this for a non shop project, but I will use it again for future shop projects.

my 1/4" astragal
I was looking at my astragals, and the beads on them are pretty close to each other except for a couple.  I thought that astragal sizes were determined from the half circle size of the bead. I dug up some info on these and that isn't so. The size of astragal is width of the bead and the inboard groove.  It has nothing to do with how big or small the bead is. This one is a 1/4" according to Josh from Hyperkitten.

based on what I read
From the far wall on the inboard groove to the outboard edge of the bead, it is a frog hair over a 1/4". I will measure my other astragals and see what they are.

grooving time
I have a couple of choices here with the groove for the bottom of the box. I can do it with the plane and then plugs the holes after. Choice #2 is to plane this side and then do the ones on the ends by hand.

choice #3
Dig out my screaming, electron munching router and use that. With this I know I can make stop grooves but it didn't get beyond me opening the door and saying no mas, no mas. I'll be using option #1 to save time and get this moving along.

test grooves on the top piece
I had this lined up with the top edge of the half pin but I chickened out. I tapped the fence with a screwdriver to move it and this is what I got. I'm about a 32nd shy of where I should have it. Given this I would rather be shy than be below.

fitting the bottom
Once this is fitted into the bottom grooves, I will glue it in place. This is something that I have done since my very first box I made this way. Back then the dovetails were replaced with rabbets and I glued and nailed them together or just glued them. I relied on the plywood bottom to keep the box square. Gluing plywood to me meant I didn't have to worry about or allow for wood movement.

It makes sense to me still today. All the wood movement in the box is up and down, not across the bottom in any direction.  I have yet to have a plywood bottom I've glued in or on be a problem in any way. I might do it differently if the grain on the box ran end to end (90° to the bottom) because then I would have to allow for some wood movement.

oops, forgot to check this for square first
I haven't sawn this to length yet and I'm shooting for an exact fit. I need the ends to be square to keep the box square.

cut line is a 1/8" longer
I'll saw this strong and square it up. Then I'll square up the other end and fit it to the box.

look down into the bottom corner
My length is still a bit too long by about a 1/16".

1/8" gone
This was an unexpected event. I knifed the line and the knife didn't seem to have any problems going through the plies. So I kept on going until I got all the way through it. I shot the other end square on the shooting board.

bottom fitted and box dry fitted
Last check to see how well the bottle fits in the box. I did very well on the side to side and length but I was overly generous in the height. I'll have to stuff more wood shavings in it to fill it up.

poplar lid
I briefly entertained using this for the lid because I didn't want to saw a short piece off of one of the 3 footers. I sawed off a piece and that will make the box all one wood.

planing a piece of scrap down to 5/8"
need this to try out my new plane
this is not looking good sports fans
I don't have a ton of experience with molding planes but one thing I have learned is that this is way too much iron sticking up past the sole.  The flat portion on the right isn't square to the sole but I don't think that matters too much. That portion of the iron cuts the rabbet or shoulder for this profile. Out square just means the shoulder will be slanted.

the 5/8 number
I assumed that the 5/8 meant the thickness of the stock that this would plane. From looking at this and the iron, I think the 5/8 refers to the size of the 'thumbnail'. The flat portion of the iron will plane down the right side so the cove portion will then cut it's thumbnail profile.

I think I am on the right track
I was able to start the profile and get a portion of it. Once I got down about a 1/3" of the way, the plane started to balk. That is about where the iron was way above the sole profile.  From this pic you can see the the 5/8 has nothing to do with the thickness of the wood this plane will profile. I measured the iron and it is 1 1/16" wide so I think this plane would easily profile wood at least 7/8 thick. Of course the thicker the wood, the bigger the rabbet. It also looks like the thumbnail portion serves as the stop.

5/32nds thick
I think that this iron is this thick because the heavy scraping action of the thumbnail portion of the plane. Most of the molding plane irons I have average 1/8" or so.

I am prepared a little
Layout fluid so I can run a scribe line.

set the iron
I got this set so the lowest part of the flat part of the iron is just proud of the sole. I scribed the line but it isn't any good. The scribe line on the flat portion came out ok but the thumbnail part didn't come out good. My scribe ran down beneath the mouth and scribed a too wide of a tracing.

After this I looked at the profile again and tried to pick which portion to grind first. Do the flat one first which would be relatively easy to do or the thumbnail? Without getting a headache, it makes sense to me to do the thumbnail first and then the flat. Making the flat after the getting the thumbnail seems to be the logical way to do this because the money in this plane is in the thumbnail. At least that is the way my convoluted thinking brain sees this.

It'll have to wait because I will have to do some research on how to do this. I'm basically clueless on how to grind this profile.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a roughly squared timber called?
answer - a balk

not feeling so hot........

Mon, 02/27/2017 - 1:19am
Last night when I went to bed, my hip starting hurting and I hadn't done a lot of physical activity through the day. The heating pad brought immediate relief which was a good thing. This was the end of my day, but most of the day after I got home from OT, my head felt like it was swimming. As I'm writing this blog, I'm feeling a wee bit warm and barely one step above feeling like crappola.

It didn't matter if I was laying down, sitting down, or vertical. I still felt like something my cats hack up and deposit on my rugs. I did what I could in the shop and when things starting looking fuzzy I shut the lights off. I'll be heading for the bunky after this is done and a lot earlier than I did yesterday.

tried boiling water
I brought this to the shop after it came to a strong boil and stuck the finish in it. I had to go back upstairs and came right back the outside diameter was melted and a liquid. I was looking to get this soft, not a liquid again. Obviously way too much heat but better than what the hair dryer did.

two coats
The second coat went on heavy. There wasn't no any way I was just putting on a wee bit. As heavy as this went on, there was almost no smelly linseed odor. I may be able to get away with two coats.

finally painted the fix I did
You can see the chip I glued in at the top left corner. I knew that I would do this when I painted the paper towel holder.

blurry pic so use your imagination here
With the drawer closed I could see a sliver of raw wood at the top that I didn't like.

painted a thin coat on the top only
This still clears the top and it didn't eat up any of the margin. It took away the raw wood look so I have a happy face on now.

FYI tip
I used to make a clocks that had a shelf that extended on either side of the clock case. I put a gallery rail on both sides. Whether you are applying an oil/shellac or painted finish, do it this way. Drag the brush across the holes in one fluid, uninterrupted motion, and you will get almost no paint in the holes. The same technique with oil/shellac works too but you have to be more attentive and careful.

repeat for the gallery railing
Paint the ends, bottom and the two sides. Once it is glued up you can paint the top and the spindles. I have found that doing it this way eliminates a lot of headaches with drips and runs. Not to mention trying to paint in such a confined area. If any finish does get in a hole, clean it out with the side of chisel before you glue up. The hole is only spot that gets glued.

paper towel holder rod
 I decided to paint this and after a couple of coats I'll put on some poly to help with wear resistance. I tried a nail in here first but it didn't work. The screw worked a lot better..

so I could paint the whole thing at once.
The clip slipped off of the nail. The head of the screw stopped that from happening.

xmas present
I've been reading this off and on since I got it. It isn't overly technical and a lot of the woods in here I've never heard of let alone eyeballed any. He explained how the Janka hardness of various woods is determined. Nice piece of trivia.

It is the amount of pounds force (or Newtons (N)) required to imbed a 0.444 inch (11.28mm) diameter steel ball into the wood to half the ball's diameter. The wood is at 12% MC for this test. This number can be used to determine how well the wood will withstand dings, dents, etc.

buffing out the box
I could see and feel the build up of the finish on the lid and the box. In the corners and other catch points, there were blobs of finish. Still no real appreciable smell. It buffed out and the greasy feel disappeared. It looks the same as the first one I did.

forgot this
I left a chipbreaker in this for 4 days. Totally zoned it right out of my memory. The Evaporust was dirty before and it had a greenish tint to it. This has been ebonized.

This chipbreaker was as black as the Evaporust. It sanded off with no effort at all.

screw for the chipbreaker - just took it out forgot it to0
I cleaned this up as best I could with a wire brush and let it go at that.

flattening the back of my latest molding plane iron
There is a pitted spot on the right side that isn't lapping out. It will be a while before I sharpen this down to that.

the flat was humped
I dragged it across the sanding belt at 90° angle until I had it square.

see the flat on the right?
It took me about a half hour to get rid of this flat. I had a burr on the back but I could see this flat without having to use the magnifying glass.

sharpened - honing is next
I do like shiny
I have this sharp now and I need a piece of 5/8" stock to see how well I did.

it doesn't look good sports fans
The profile of the iron doesn't have to be a dead nuts match. Close is usually good enough but this doesn't look that way. The circular part is too high and the flat is barely a frog hair past the sole. I may have to learn how to grind an iron to match the plane's sole.

my four fenced casing planes
Top left is 7/8", bottom left is 3/4", bottom right is 5/8" and the top right is 1/2" The 3/4" and 1/2" profiles are similar with the other two being different. And the one with the crack/split is almost invisible now. I had trouble finding it.

waiting for a dryer load to be done

I didn't want to go back upstairs and have to come back for this load. While I was waiting I decided to chop out the pins.

done - clean up and a dry fit is next
dry fit looks ok    one corner is looser than I would like though
Will the bottle fit? I really don't want to make another box so my fingers are crossed on this.

much joy and rejoicing in Mudville
Sometimes I get lucky. I hope my friend will be surprised by this as long as his wife doesn't blab it out inadvertently.

Time to jump in the rain locker and hit the bunky.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who opened the first public aquarium in the United States?
answer - P.T. Barnum did in 1856 in NYC (The Brits were first with one in 1853)

not a good day......

Sun, 02/26/2017 - 3:45am
When I went in for OT this morning, I planned on staying for two hours and coming home. I was talking with my boss and he was under the gun to get some stuff out the door. I stayed and helped him to put a good dent in it. After 6 hours I was wiped slick and headed for the barn.

I wanted to get the sink cabinet set in place today but my wife was already busy prepping the walls for painting. My wife and I are like trying to mix oil and water when it comes to working together. It just is not going to happen no matter how hard you shake us . Something we learned very early about each other and we don't push that envelope in the least. So I'll try and get the sink cabinet set tomorrow. At least it left me free to go play in the work shop.

Since it was close to chinese lunch time, I decided to finish up the paper towel holder. Nothing moved or relaxed on me when the clamps came off.  Both spreaders fell out on their own accord once I loosened the clamps. Everything checked good for square which is always a good thing.

I had to fuss with the length of the gallery rail some to even up the gap on both sides. I then hand sanded it with 100 grit paying careful attention to the curves on the sides.  I forgot to sand the spice rack and even through 3 layers of paint I can still see some roughness on the curves. I didn't want to do that with the paper towel holder. After the 100 grit, I used the RO with 220 grit. I'm sure glad that I don't use the RO sander that often.

flattening another board
Every time I do this, it gets done a little differently than the last time. I am trying to standardize how I do it. Here I started by removing the hump on this side. This went down against the bench so I could deal with the other concave side.

the painted surface helped with the flattening
I wanted to plane off the high outside wings first but muscle memory took over. I planed a chamfer on the inboard side and made a couple of up and down the board at a diagonal. If I had shaved the 'wings' I could have gone directly to planing straight across.

still have wings and a hollow down the middle
The paint is telling a best sellers story. I made another double criss cross up and down the board and removed some more paint.

I'm good only at this end
monitoring my shavings
I think part of my problem with flattening is impatience and not looking at my shavings and clearing them out of the throat. For most of my trip down this board I cleared the shaving after each stroke and I watched them to see if they were full length.

last pass at 90°, then full length strokes end to end
very little light
This is the least amount of light I have gotten under my plane to date. Instead of trying to conserve how much wood I removed, I worked on getting this face flat.

the paint is raising this up (out of sequence pic)
For the most part when I check under my plane I have yet to see a total absence of light. I usually see it straight across with a few hills blocking it here and there. I forgot to snap the pic of this after I removed the paint. There were 2 or 43 pin pricks of light under the plane.

one flat board planed to thickness
I learned two things with this today. The first is to plane until one side is flat and don't worry about it being too thin. If does come out too thin, start again with another board. The second kind of goes hand in hand with the first one. That is to plane until I get a I full shaving on each planing stroke and to keep at it until I do. This board went from 11/16" down to a frog hair below a 1/2". I was shooting for 5/8" so I could use it to practice with my latest plane acquisition.

I'll do another board tomorrow. Now it was time to get lunch.

ran into a hiccup here
I wanted to brand the back of the paper towel holder before I painted it. It had been over 30 minutes and the branding iron was still stone cold. I tried another plug and got the same thing - no Sammy Electrons flowing out of that receptacle neither.  The both of them were on the same line as 1/2 the cellar lights. I had an open ground somewhere. Finding grounds can be like chasing your tail sometimes but I least I had narrowed down my problem to a few circuits.

Two hours later and after 2 trips outside to check the main service entry, I finally found the problem.  It was one the fluorescent lights in the shop. It is a cheap shop light with an even cheaper controller circuit. Somehow something melted and crossed wires in it the wrong way. For $9.99, I got my money's worth out of it. I'll buy a new one at Lowes.

next batch will be in a wide mouth jar
I'm putting this finish on the other shop box I made. I have 3 coats on the smaller one and I stopped there. It looks ok with 3 but I am not sure how many I'll have to put on the bigger one.

tried heating it up to soften it
This stuff  is almost as hard as granite. The hair dryer gave up and the interlock kicked in and shut it down. I think I should have been doing it from the side and not directly into the jar. I think a lot of the heat was being reflected back into the gun.

20 minutes later it had cooled down and was working again
I won't be using the hair dryer to soften this the next time. I'll try boiling water and see how that works.

quit here
I knifed my gauge lines for the pins all around and ran out of gas. I was hoping to get at least one done but it didn't happen. I need a 14 hour equalizer in the bunk which is where I'm heading after I finish writing this post.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first designated hitter in Major League Baseball?
answer - Ron Blomberg of the New York Yankees was on April 6th 1973

clock project, #3 plane, et al........

Sat, 02/25/2017 - 12:42am
I got my full hour plus in the shop tonight which was very productive. I got two things done, made some progress on a third, and opened a can worms on the 4th one. I may have to push back a few projects I had planned on because my focus has to be on getting the other two cabinets installed and then the counter top. Being without the proverbial kitchen sink is a PITA.

it doesn't work and it may be a can of worms
I made this clock a few years back and I put a chiming bim-bam movement in it. It bim-bam'ed once. It didn't chime again but it did keep good time for a while.

crappy movement
This movement cost me $109 and it is crap. I soldered the wires back on the speaker 4 times. The wires are a very thin covered with an even thinner insulation. Just opening the door caused the wires on the speaker to come undone.

This stopped working altogether the first time I I had to change the time due to DST change. I removed the batteries, changed the time, reinstalled the batteries and nothing. Even the pendulum stopped swinging. It's been sitting on the bookcase for over a year now. I haven't bought another movement because I don't want another Chinese one.

pretty fancy movement
It plays two other tunes besides bim-bam (my favorite) and it has a night silence switch too. But it is complete and utter useless crap.

even routed slots for the bim-bam noise to escape
a xmas present for my wife
This has a slightly cheaper movement that was only $90. It has the same capabilities as the mission clock. This one also stopped keeping time after the first DST change. But the pendulum on this one still swings. No time, no chimes, but the pendulum swings.

new movement from Klockit
This is a German made movement and it is only $69. It plays two tunes plus bim-bam and I'm not sure if it has a night silence mode. The wires are a huge step up. A thicker gauge with better insulation and the solder connections look much stronger.

the pendulum swinging mechanism
The copper coil switches it's field which causes the magnet to be repulsed and swing away. The other two movements use two magnets which suck. After a bit of time they weaken and stop being strong enough to cause the pendulum to swing. This shouldn't be a problem here.

tune selection switches
The movement runs off two C size batteries.

my impetus
My wife gave me this as a xmas present with marching orders to get at least one of the clocks working. The only problem I can see with them is whether or not the post on these two new movements will fit the existing holes in the clocks. The other potential problem is the set back for the pendulum. It won't be a problem on my wife's clock but it may on the mission clock.

The mission clock has a bottom with a slot in it for the pendulum rod. I may get lucky or I may have to do some surgery to get the new pendulum to fit. I'll start with my wife's clock first and then do the mission one.

glued up the paper towel holder
 When I tightened down on the clamps I noticed the front top toed inwards. I cut a piece of scrap two frog hairs wider then the back and put it at the front.

put one at the bottom too
I set this aside on the shitcan to cook. I didn't have to put it by the furnace because the temp today was 69°F (20.5°C). We have had 3 days in a row with the temps in the low 60's with today being the warmest so far. Colder weather is coming back this weekend.

tote and knob for my #3
I don't know why I didn't order the rear tote when I ordered the front knob. Outwardly the original tote that came with the #3 looked ok but the inner workings were beyond OTL (out to lunch). This is what I've been waiting for to complete this rehab. I don't think the two of these were more than $45 and that includes the S/H.

the before shot right out of the box

the after glamour shots - port side
stern shot
starboard side
missing chip
This is the only hiccup on the whole plane. I don't mind it and it has absolutely no effect on the use of the plane.

bow on shot
wispy and fluffy shavings
Since I sanded the sole up to 600 grit, all the dragging I felt before I did it is gone.

newest old #3 on the left , my first rehabbed #3 on the right
side by side
Other than the color differences in the rear tote, the only other mismatch is the size of the adjuster wheels. I'm thinking of setting one for taking wispy shaving and the other for smoothing shavings.

closed shut for two days
The box has a low odor to it now. It isn't as strong as the smell in the jar, but it's there. I have an idea I want to try and see if I can eliminate the odor. From what I read about artist stand oil, if you put it in the sun for a year it will lose it's odor and become almost colorless. Don't know that I want to wait a year so I'll be trying something different.

I like how the end turned out with this finish
finished and unfinished
Both lids came from the same board.

the other end grain
To my eye, this looks better than what shellac would look like.

MIA end
I cleaned the workbench off and I'm missing an end piece.

found it
I don't have a clue as to how this made it across the shop to be under my bandsaw. It is back with it's mates and maybe I'll finish this up tomorrow. It's the tequila box I started last week.

it worked
Keeping these on the workbench did annoy me and I whacked them out tonight. This is just a guess-ta-mate and subject to change. I don't know how much spacing I should leave between them. These are 9" apart and I'll see how it works out.

only one set screw
I wrote yesterday that there were two set screws in the hanger. Correction - there is only one and it is at the bottom.

raised it up to clear the hand railing

didn't work out 100%
The coats still hang down covering the hand railing. I would put the coats behind the door but that won't work. You would have to go down into the cellar to get a coat and to hang them up. I'll let this go for while and see if the wife likes it. If she does I think I may add a fourth hanger if I can fit it in.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Sylvanus Freelove Bowser?
answer - he invented the gasoline pump in 1885 although at first it was used for dispensing kerosene


Fri, 02/24/2017 - 12:35am
...... where luck gives an unexpected and pleasant happening. For me that was an almost empty post office.  I had to stop there after work to mail out the irons and when I pulled into the parking lot I got the last spot. Not a good omen.  I resigned myself to standing in line for quite a while as I went in. Then the serendipity thing said hello because there was only one person in front of me. And the person at the counter was leaving as I got in line. I was in and out in about 10 minutes.

When I got home there were four packages waiting. Lo and behold, 3 of them were for me. You could have knocked me down with a feather. Usually all multiple packages go to the wife, even if I'm expecting some too.

new coat hook from Lee Valley
I bought three of these and got them with free shipping. I will easily be able to hang 3 coats from it.
 I especially like the top two spread eagle hooks.

how it is secured
This is screwed to the wall where you want the coat hook to live.

the coat hook slips over it
There is a set screw at the top and another one at the bottom. These two secure the hanger to this part. There is no visible means from the front as to how the hook is hanging from the wall.  When I checked the shipping on this morning, UPS supposedly didn't have the tracking number in their system yet.

this is going away
 I have been telling myself for years to replace this with something else. I have finally gotten around to it but not quite yet. Maybe this weekend and if I leave them on the workbench that will up the chance of it happening.

spindles came in too
I checked on these 3 times today and each time all I got was that the order had been received.

reprint I got from Hyperkitten
I wasn't going to get this until I read a blog post about some else buying one and fantasizing about going shopping in the same year as the catalog. After I read that I ordered this one and another.

fantasy catalog #2
I don't think it's a reprint
I didn't get these for type studies but just for looking at. I wish I could shop and buy the tools in here at the prices listed. A Stanley #1 bench plane sold for $1.65 in catalog 102

got another fenced casing plane
This one is 5/8" and it completes it for me. I now have 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", and 7/8" sizes. I couldn't resist this because of how clean this looked. Most of the ones I see have a crack or a split in them on the outboard fence. That part of the plane takes a lot of stress. I have one plane (7/8) with a split I still haven't glued yet.

5/8 on the heel
I tried this on 3/4" stock and I couldn't get the plane over the edge - it was too thick for the plane.

1/2" thick stock
It planed a partial profile on this. The iron was barely sharp enough to plane this poplar and I struggled a bit doing it. Missing from this profile is the shoulder at the top. I will have to plane some stock down to 5/8" and try this plane again. First I will sharpen and hone the iron.

1/4" brad point bit is too small
I drilled a test hole in poplar and it is too small for the spindle tenon. A few gentle taps with a mallet didn't improve the fit neither.

1/4" forstner bit worked
Gallery rail dry fit came out good. I will glue this in place after the rest of the holder is done. I want to ensure that galley rail will fit inbetween the sides. I cut the length of the gallery rail 3/8" shorter than the ID of the sides.

close to the notch
The wood movement is front to back so I could be tight on this if need be. I want it with a 3/16" spacing on both ends.  I also have a chip missing on this end to deal with. I planed a bevel on this edge until the chip disappeared. The bevel may become a round over later.

planed a bevel on the back stretcher
The holder is ready to glue up but I didn't do it tonight. I'll do it tomorrow when I will have my full hour in the shop and no errands to run.

got the pipes moved
The plumber who did this said that he doesn't do copper piping anymore. Everything is plastic now. He put in two shutoffs here and there are two ball valve shutoffs in the cellar too. I'll be doing the sink hook up which will go very fast. No soldering, no fussing, just screw the faucet lines to these and I'll be done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Henry Ford made 15,007,033 Model T cars. In what year did the VW beetle surpass it?
answer - in 1972 (the last beetle was made in 2003 for a total production of 21,529,464)

paper towel holder pt IV.......

Thu, 02/23/2017 - 12:59am
True to my word, there will only be a final part V. That one will be the painted, ooh and aah, glamour shot part. I am still waiting on the spindles. When I checked on them this afternoon, they had received the order. That is it. No shipped it out, no tracking number, just we got your money and when we get around to it, we'll ship it.

mind is made up now
Unfinished box on the top, the new linseed oil and wax finish on the middle box, and the bottom box has several coats of shellac. From this vintage point, the middle and bottom box look a like a lot.

side view
The only thing that stands out to me on these, is the bottom box has some shine, the middle one has a bit of color and a flat look, and the top one is bare bones. I'll be putting the wax finish on the top box. I am still rather pleasantly surprised that there is no discernible odor the middle box. I'm leaving the middle box closed up tonight. Tomorrow I'll do a sniff test on the inside of the box to see if it stinks.

changed the pattern a bit
It wasn't a dear diary entry change but a change nonetheless. Where the curve ended and dipped down vertically is the place I changed it. Instead of the 90° drop I put it at an  angle. I wasn't so keen on the abrupt end and change on the first one.

To trace it out on the crest rail board, I lined up the lines on the two on the left side. I flipped it and did the right side. Using a half pattern ensures both sides should be reasonably the same.

cut the crest rail on the bandsaw
cleaned up with rasps
I need to do a bit more on the right side but overall, it looks ok.

the top of the side
I wanted the crest rail to die out above the top of the sides. I don't like the look of the parts diving down below and into the rabbet.

finding the gallery rail center
The rail is 13 and 5/16" long. I came in 6 1/2" in from each end and made a mark. I squared those two marks and then made two diagonals between them. That gave me the center of the gallery rail L/R and top to bottom.  After I got the center line, I used dividers and laid out the spacing for 3 spindles on either side of center.

found center of the shelf
I transferred the layout from the gallery rail onto the shelf. I am pretty sure that the tenons on the spindles I ordered are a 1/4" but I'll be patient until I get them.  I will measure them and then drill the holes for them.

FYI for me too
After I found the center on the gallery rail I should have drawn the center line on it. I could have then marked the spindle spacing with the dividers on the center line. The bigger hole is from the awl on the center point and the little hole to left is from the dividers. Oh well maybe I'll remember it for next time.

I had to run few errands after work tonight so my shop time was short. The big surprise was the post office. It was empty when I stopped in to get some flat rate boxes. I know that when I go to ship out the irons it'll be packed. Tomorrow I'll get back to finishing up the tequila box.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many Grammy categories are there?
answer - there are 30 fields with 83 categories in them

paper towel holder pt III.......

Wed, 02/22/2017 - 12:50am
There is only going to be a part IV and V.  I was expecting to get all of the woodworking related tasks done tonight but I lost a bounce test. A minor hiccup that was easily fixed and it really didn't matter much. I still have to wait for the spindles for the gallery rail to come in before I can keep on going with it.

two coats on it
Last night after dinner I went back to the shop to look at this. It felt dry and not the least bit greasy. So I put another coat of the finish on the box and lid. This is what it looks like 12 hours later. Still dry and not greasy or slick, and there is no stinky odor. I can smell it in the jar but not on the box.

the bottom of the lid
Other than the color getting a bit darker, there isn't much to tell me there is a finish on this. It has a nice tactile feel with my fingertips but I'm not sure about the protection it will afford. I like shellac but side by side, I pick this new finish. I put another coat of it on tonight. I'll evaluate this tomorrow and see if it needs another one.

one of three rabbets
I need this rabbet at the bottom of the shelf for the bottom of the crest rail. I need a stopped rabbet on both of the sides for the ends of the crest rail. The three of these will provide a good glue surface for the keeping the shelf, the sides, and crest rail together.

right side stopped rabbet
I started to saw this out and stopped. I couldn't take a full stroke for the whole wall so I chiseled it out by hand. Once I got the majority of the waste removed and I was close to the gauge line, I switched over to the hand router.

closed throat router
When I put this away yesterday I didn't change the depth setting. I left it at the same setting so the rabbet depth will be same as the shelf dado.

finishing up the other side rabbet
I spent a most of my time carefully chiseling the vertical wall of the rabbet. This is what will be seen on the finished shelf. I made sure that this was as straight and clean as I could make it.

clean and tight fitting joint
the failed bounce test with Mr Concrete Floor
I knocked this off the bench and this piece broke off. I will glue this back on and let it set until tomorrow.

the gallery rail
If I hadn't broken the shelf I could have done the layout for the spindles. If I had been able to do that I would have been done with the woodworking. I could have glued this up tonight but now it'll have to wait.

layout lines
I have a center line (vertical one) and the top of the sides (horizontal line) and that is all I need to draw a design. I sketched something here to get a look see at it and I'm going with it. I like it and I don't see the need to try to make anything else.

I just have to cut this out and align the vertical and horizontal lines and trace it out onto the crest rail. This will be the last of the woodworking to be done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Grace Hooper?
answer - she wrote the first compiler for a computer programming language

towel holder pt II..........

Tue, 02/21/2017 - 12:42am
I took another 'take it easy' day.  It was a day off from work for me and I did nothing on the cabinet installation except to call a few plumbers. None were interested in doing a little piddly job like move some pipes. One did say that he was free at the end of March and could I wait that long? By the time I got done doing this I was ready for something else so I went on a road trip.

I went to three different craft stores to get some gallery rail spindles. All three of the craft stores didn't have any and none of them knew what they were. One had an assembled gallery rail that I showed to him so he now knows what they are.

There is a wood item store in Greenville that sells them so I headed out to see them. But before I stopped there I went a wee bit further up the road to Stillwater Antique Mall. It's been a while since I've been there and they must be undergoing a inventory turnover. Pickings were sparse but there were two humongous 90° picture framers clamps. They must have had a 8-10 inch clamping width. I've never seen any that big before. For $45, I was tempted to take one home but I didn't.

On the way home I stopped at the wood store but it was closed. The sign said they would be closed from Feb 12th to the 21th. Today is the 20th and I was left standing at the door. Since I had no intention of driving back here, when I got home I ordered some on line.

I bought 20 maple spindles for $3.85 with $7.90 S/H. Ouch, I dislike paying more for shipping then the merchandise. The first site I looked at was selling one spindle for $2.35. I hope no one bought any of these from them and looked further.

30 minutes past oh dark 45
Overslept again this morning and I can't do that tomorrow.. I went to the shop and before I started to work on the towel holder I did one last check for the ID and OD. I hope that paper towels all come in a standard length. I have seen them with different diameters but this holder can handle that. It can also handle about an extra inch in the length if need be.

artist linseed oil
Chris Schwartz recently put up an article on making a homemade finish of linseed oil and wax. He wrote that buying this type of linseed oil was expensive and he wasn't woofing Dixie. I think that this is Italian and I couldn't find how much is in the bottle. It's probably there but I can read Italian as well as I can mandarin chinese.

using the 4:1 ration
I am assuming that Chris did the formula based on weight ounces and not fluid ounces. The weight of the linseed oil was 2 3/8 ounces which made the beeswax to be added about 0.6 ounces. I put 7/8 of an ounce of beeswax in this. I am sure that this formula isn't carved in stone so I should be alright if I'm a little off on the ratio.

brought it to a boil
After it came to a boil I lowered the heat until all the boiling bubbles went away. Then I put the jar of linseed oil and beeswax in the water.

5 minutes
The wax is still in chunks in the linseed oil. The bigger pieces of wax don't seem to want to melt.

ten minutes
There are 3 pieces of wax that still haven't melted. The mixture has gone from a clear looking liquid to a honey color here.

took about 15 minutes to melt the wax into the linseed oil
I kept the heat on medium low and I didn't allow it to boil again once the jar went in the water.

about 10 minutes after taking it out the water
It is starting to solidify.

wasn't sure
This is the stir stick I used on the mixture. I'm sure that this probably isn't like linseed oil soaked rags but this gives me a warm and fuzzy. I broke up the whole stick into little pieces and put them in water.

used two shooting boards
I need to make another smaller shooting board. The one I have now is made of MDF and it's getting wonky. It doesn't like shooting boards over 5-6 inches wide.

all 3 dead nuts even in length
marked the shelf width
I think I've finally turned the corner on this. I wasn't looking at this to saw plumb. What I was concentrating on was staying a few frog hairs off the gauge line in the waste side.

left the line end to end
using the gauge line again
Planing down to this will make this edge square and parallel to the other edge.

3/8 longer than the dado
I didn't measure this but laid it out by eye.  I like a stopped dado over a through dado. I think the stopped dado is cleaner looking. Of course that depends on how well you saw the notch too.

I have my finish
I don't know at what time this set up and solidified. I was busy playing with the towel holder. I would guess it's been about 45 minutes since I brought this down to the shop. It's still a little warm but not so warm that I can't hold it.

it's solid looking and it feels solid too
left knife line
Since I looked at my marking knife with a magnifying glass and fixed it, I've been getting clean, ragged out free knife lines.

right one is just as clean
bottom back stretcher
I am not liking this layout. This is a weak connection due to not much meat making the connection. I'm changing this to a blind dovetail.

I like this better already
scraper chisel
This scraper is the same thickness as my dovetail kerf  and it fits it like a glove. What it isn't doing is chiseling down the corner. I have only used this scraper for the corners on pine and it sails through that. It isn't working on the poplar at all. I had to chisel out the tail socket slowly and carefully.

left side done
right side had some hiccups
I had a gap on the shoulders here and at the back top of the tail. The sides of the dovetail were tight against the socket walls. My first attempts at correcting the fit were off the mark. I thought because it was tight on the outside walls that was the problem. I trimmed in very small shavings and that saved my bacon. The reason why I had a gap at the shoulders was because the back wall of the tail socket wasn't plumb. It was tapered with the bottom wider than the top. I shaved the wall plumb and the back gap disappeared. The shoulder one closed up some but not completely. This was another area I trimmed that I shouldn't have. After I glue these I will also put a screw in each tail into the side.

rubbed on one coat of  the linseed oil and wax finish
This finish is hard. I was expecting this to be a little softer and kind like a paste. Maybe my overage on the wax ratio made it harder. It doesn't smell and it doesn't feel greasy even after I apply it.

the lid
It's hard for me to tell there is a finish on this. The lid does slide in and out easier after this one coat.

unfinished big box
Both of these boxes are made from the same boards. The bigger box is lighter in color (no finish) than the smaller box with the finish on it. I'll put another coat on the small box tomorrow. Before I put any on the bigger one I'll let the small one hang out for while first. I think this will be a good finish to put on shop projects.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Al Capone, the gangster, had an older brother who used the name Richard "two gun" Hart. What did he do for a living?
answer - he was lawman in Nebraska serving as a marshal and a state sheriff

I paid the price, big time........

Mon, 02/20/2017 - 2:48am
I moved around yesterday like I was a young kid. I refused to give in and take it slow. Putting in that corner cabinet really pissed me off. I flew up and down the cellar stairs getting tools and whatever else I needed. Later on that night about 2000, my right leg (with the metal hip) starting hurting. I also had trouble walking and I couldn't take a full stride.

I didn't think much of it and thought that after a good night's sleep, life would be wonderful in the morning again. I went to bed and before 2100 I was in agony. My hip had never hurt this much before. Not even when I built the garden shed a few years ago. I got up to get some motrin and that was trip through hell and back. Constant stabbing aching pain, and a 10 second round trip that took me 10 minutes to do.

My wife looked up something on her cell phone and she told me take some motrin. Duh! I just took that. I somehow managed to get back into bed without passing out. She put a heating pad on my hip and that felt wonderful. The pain started to subside and I fell asleep. I woke up a few hours later and I was pain free. I'm not complaining but the previous couple hours are ones I don't ever want to revisit.

Today I kept in mind what I did yesterday and took it easy. I'm having a plumber come in and do the water pipes. I may call him back and have him do the sink hook up too. I spent the rest of the day trying to finish up the rehabbing of the #3. That shouldn't involve a lot running around.

Siegley iron and chipbreaker
I forgot these pics from yesterday. This is the condition I got these two in. Ready to go as is and I did use them as is.

back of the iron has been flattened
I'll take that because I dislike flattening the backs of irons and chisels.

this needs some work
The chipbreaker had a bit of daylight between it and the iron. I didn't get any shavings jammed up under it when I used but I'll fix it anyways.

this side is off a bit
This is the side/end that I saw the daylight on. It won't take but a few minutes to get this flat and even end to end.

prepped my sanding belts
I cut the belts last night before I left the shop. I put them underneath the marble threshold to flatten out the hump in them.

#3 sanded with 180
The marks on the bottom edge I had to hand sand out. I was getting anywhere trying to sand them out on the threshold. I have no plans to use this on shooting board so I'm overly concerned with getting or maintaining square.

The sole of this plane had some paint on it from the boards I used it on. Overall, the plane looks grungy so I decided to do a full sanding of the sole and the cheeks. I had to put the 80 and 120 grit belts back on and start there with this plane.

changed where I cut them
I cut the blue belt on the round part of the belt. That put the splice almost in the middle of the threshold when laid down on it. Every stroke with the plane back and forth went over the splice. On the other belts I cut it on the splice and put that part under the clamp. That left me with prime, uninterrupted sanding real estate.

sanding do-dad
This is the eraser I use to clean my 12" sanding disc and I tried it here. The heavier grits (80, 120,etc) stay relatively clean but the smaller grits (220 and up) clog up quickly. Even with frequent vacuuming, they still clog quickly. I tried the eraser after each time I vacuumed and it seemed to make a difference. I could see and feel the sandpaper cutting better than when I just vacuumed it.

look at what I found
I thought I had a set of smaller torx screwdrivers but when I didn't find them in my electronics toolbox, I assumed I didn't have any. I didn't think to look at where my workshop screwdrivers are kept.

finish polishing with 600 grit
I'm not a fan of this 3 in-a-row sandpaper but I didn't have a choice here. I took it slow and I only lost 2 pieces. I think that is pretty good as I used this setup to polish three other planes besides the #3.

all 600 grit
I've had this paper for over 23 years. I got it before I left the Navy in 1994. I was stationed on a boat that was being decommissioned and the last sea trip we made on her was a dump run. We went to sea for the express purpose of throwing everything not needed overboard. I saved this pile of 600 grit paper. I have maybe used an inch over the years. I just missed getting a pile of 400 grit at the same time.

I think readers know that I like shiny
#3 sanded and shined up
the 4 hand planes I did today
I did my other #3, the #4 that had paint on it's sole, and the 4 1/2.

doing a plane iron inventory
2 of the four LN irons I have. One  A-2 and three 0-1s'. I have two LN planes, a 51 and a 4 1/2 and both of them have 0-1 irons. I'm good on LN irons but I would like to replace the one A-2 with another 0-1.

10 1/2 and  # 8 irons
I had bought a replacement frog for a 10 1/2 and it had an iron and chipbreaker too. This one is sharp and ready to go.  I now have three #8 irons. The one in the #8 now is a Record iron that fits and works perfectly. I should only have two irons for the #8 but I bought an iron/chipbreaker thinking it was for the 4 1/2 but I had mind farted on the size of the two. Now I have three and I'm good on these too.

2 5/6" wide irons
These are for my 4 1/2 but they will also fit the #6 and #7. The #6 has a cambered iron and I don't need a replacement for it but I do need a back up for the #7. The iron on the left is from Tools from Japan I got it because it is the only aftermarket iron I can find that is close to the size of the OEM Stanleys. The iron/chipbreaker on the right is the Siegley I just got. It is looking like I don't need any more irons for the 4 1/2 or the #7.

#4 and #3 irons and extra chipbreakers
I have three #4 planes but only one back up iron for them. I have two #3 planes and I have 2 backup irons for them. I need to get a couple of more #4 irons and at least one backup #4 chipbreaker.

Stanley block plane iron
I offered this for free with the block plane but had no takers last year. The block
plane failed the bounce test with Mr Concrete Floor but I saved the iron.

spare iron for my Lee Valley rabbet plane
toothing iron for my LV BU Jack
iron from Tools from Japan
#8 iron in front, Tools from Japan iron in the back
There is a slight difference in the thickness of these two. The iron from Tools from Japan is only about 2 frog hairs thicker than the #8. I shouldn't have to go nutso pushing the frog back to the heel to get it to fit. I checked the Tools from Japan website and this is the only Stanley bench iron replacement I saw on it.

The only plane I haven't actively sought to get a replacement iron for is my #5. I don't use it that often and it's the same size as the #4 irons. So if I get more #4 irons, I will have a spare for the #5. I use my Lee Valley BU Jack more than the Stanley.

an old tapered iron
modified chipbreaker
This came in a wooden Jack I bought and it was modified by the previous owner.(?) Whoever did this also squared off the slot in the iron.

won't fit in any metal plane I have
The bevel side
The bevel of this looks like crap. It looks like it was hacked at but with a bit of work it'll be redeemable.

offered up for sale
The far left iron is a freebie to whoever wants one of the others and asks for it. The second from left iron is the tapered one and it is 2 1/16" wide. $17 including shipping in the lower 48 in a flat rate box. You know blurb to follow, first email with the earliest date time stamp, yada, yada, yada..........  If someone wants it that doesn't reside in the lower 48, $17 plus actual shipping costs to you.

The third iron from the left is a Lee Valley A2 iron and chipbreaker. It's 2 3/8 wide and I had bought it to use in my #7 but it wouldn't fit. With the frog backed up as far as it would go, I had no more adjuster to turn to move the iron in or out. I used it in my LN 51 for over a year before I put a LN 0-1 back in it. $20 including shipping to the lower 48 in a flat rate box. Same blurb as above applies here.

The last one on the right is a Hock iron and chipbreaker that was in my #5. Hock was the only after market iron I bought that didn't need the mouth widened nor involved having the iron shoved back to the heel. I have gone back to using Stanley irons in all of my planes and I intend to stay with them.

Offered up for $20 including shipping to the lower 48 in a flat rate box. Same blurb as above applies here. ****This iron has the corners rounded off so it won't leave plane tracks.**** Both the Hock and the Lee Valley iron are sharpened straight across - they are not cambered and neither iron has a secondary bevel.

fixing the chipbreaker
The shiny part was on the stone with the tail on the bench. Moved it up and down the side of the stone, trying to keep it square, until the edge was consistent side to side.

sharpened the bottom edge
The edge right where it lays on the iron, had some rough spots and a couple of minutes on the coarse stone got rid of it. I stropped it after I did the same to the iron.

another 150 year old patent date
I know that this iron and chipbreaker isn't original to the #3 I'm rehabbing. It has the movable bedrock frog and that wasn't even a thought back in 1867.

I'm liking this runway sharpening
 I am going to keep the threshold and the 80 grit belt by the sharpening bench. This long distance makes quick work on establishing the bevel and rolling a burr.

trying to remove my fingerprints
I saw the blood on the guide and I had to search for the source. I didn't even feel this nor was aware that I had shaved this fingertip. The iron I'm sharpening now is the OEM #3 I bought a couple of weeks ago. I flattened the back, filed the corners round, and I'm establishing my bevel here.

cleaning up the level cap
got the last of the rust spots
The keyhole circle I did with a dowel wrapped with sandpaper. The wire wheel got the rest of them.

working on my mini anvil
The level cap had bend in it and I was able to tap most of it out on the pointed part of the anvil. I know that the pointed thing in the back is called a hardy and I'm assuming that the pointy blue thing is called the horn. I'll be looking up anvil part names after I'm done writing this blog.

my best friend too
I have used this stuff for years to clean my stainless steel pots and pans. I never knew it would work wonders on brass. I got this tip from Jonathan who blogged about the Chicken Taj Mahal of the Pacific Northwest he built. He also blogged about a plane restoration and he used this to clean the adjuster wheel.  I couldn't believe how shiny and bright he got the adjuster. I have struggled on every plane rehab I've done and I never got any of my adjusters to look even half as good as his was.

it's pristine
I drop a bunch of this in a plastic container with water and drop the adjuster in it to soak for a while. After about a ten minutes, I take it out and scrub it all over with a toothbrush. Any stubborn areas I treat with a paste of a little water and a lot of powder and use extra elbow grease with the toothbrush.

where my shop day ended
I scrubbed the inside of the plane, rinsed it out, and then blew it dry with my hairdryer. At this point I am not going to paint this. There is a little lost of some japanning aft of the frog seat and none forward of it. Everything on the plane has been sanded, shined, cleaned, and oiled up. All that I need to call this done, and hear the congratulatory oohs and aahs, is the rear tote.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Whitcomb Judson?
answer - he invented the zipper

2 down, 2 to go.......

Sun, 02/19/2017 - 2:56am
The approved plan for saturday was to go in early to do OT. Come home early and get at least two cabinets installed. Quit the cabinets after that and go spend some quality time in the shop.It sounded good and looked awesome on paper, but the execution was lacking. Got two cabinets installed but I didn't get any quality time in the shop. It is looking like I won't be getting a lot of it tomorrow neither. And the early stuff didn't happen neither.

I felt an omen
I didn't have a warm and fuzzy feeling when I got home so first off, I went to the shop and did some woodworking. I took the crest rail for the towel holder out of the clamps and cleaned it up. It's ready to go now and I then started on the cabinet install.

working out of the corner
This was a hard one to call for me. I could have started on the right with stove cabinet and tried to shoehorn the corner cabinet in place. Or tried the same thing coming from the left. Common sense told me to install the corner cabinet first and work out from that right and left.

My kitchen floor has a 3/4" hollow just to the left of the center of it. Which puts it right where the corner and stove cabinets are going to live going to the right. Since I thought it would be near impossible to shim and corner cabinet, I worked on getting that level and square in the corner.

kitty corner on the corner cabinet
The walls are slightly out of plumb. The right wall leans inward and the left one leans outward. I couldn't get two surfaces to be level no matter what I did. If screwed one side in level, the other one would go out. Very frustrating start to this installation.

from the corner to the front - out of level
I have the right side screwed to the wall and the reading is off. In order to get this level I would have had to lift the back end up. Doing that would put the sides out level. This cabinet has to be level and plumb because the other cabinets are installed off of it.

three stooges plumbing
This is all going away. The pipe on the right is the cold water and I am hoping that I have enough wiggle room to fit the sink cabinet over it.

this is turning out to be an armpit level liquid fecal matter job
I'm on the level line on one side and off on the other. I got a level kitty corner here. It has now been almost 2 hours of work and I don't have this first cabinet installed yet.

stellar joinery - both sides look the same
more award winning joinery
This corner, in spite of the ten pounds of staples, is still separated somehow. I checked and what a surprise, the cabinet is not square in any direction. It is out almost a 1/4" off on the diagonals. That explains some of the fun I'm having trying to get this secured in place.

The only thing holding this kick plate in place is 5 staples at the top. I secured it with a handful of #6x5/8 screws by screwing in from the 1/4" plywood into the 1/2" kick plywood board.

the other side is held with 5 staples too
I repeated the screwing on this kick plate too. It did stiffen up the cabinet some but it didn't cure the out of square.

removed all the staples and screwed the corner back together
one hour later
I finally said enough and compromised. I gave up trying to get the left and right sides level. The vertical sides are plumb which made me scratch the bald spot a few extra times. I went kitty corner across the front and got that level. I took a break after I finally got the corner cabinet in place.

never heard of Siegley, you?
I bought this because it was $10, 2 5/16" wide, and I was hoping it would fit my 4 1/2". This is also the cleanest and most ready to go iron I have ever bought.

Stanley on the left, Siegley on the right
With the exception of the iron, these two look identical.  The relief hole for the chipbreaker screw being at the top of the iron is the only obvious difference. Everything on the chipbreakers are almost a dead nuts match. I'm thinking Stanley made this for Siegley and they ordered the irons made this way for them. I'm sure Bob Demers probably has info on any closet skeletons with Siegley planes.

can't argue with this
I did nothing to the Siegley iron/chipbreaker. I put in the 4 1/2 and locked down the lever cap. I didn't have to adjust the screw for it at all. I made a bunch of shavings from wispy thin to these here. I have a back up for my 4 1/2 now.

I have started looking out for other makers irons because I can't seem to find good Stanley ones. I know Stanley made planes/irons for others and they are usually cheaper to buy. I would buy a whole plane just to salvage an iron.

much joy and rejoicing in Mudville
My new 3/8 drill came in and I put it to work doing the cabinet install. I put the corded one back in the black hole.

my 4x36 belts came in too
I have the grits to finish the #3 - 180, 220 320, and 400. That is something I can do while the wife is sleeping. It's a quiet work until you drop something on your foot or mind fart and turn the vacuum cleaner on.

just thought to check this
The adjuster is in the same spot with the Siegley iron/chipbreaker as it is with the Stanley setup. I didn't gain there but I gained with a good iron and chipbreaker.

5 hours after I started
My male cat, Mr Darcy, is inspecting my work. Doing this kitchen redo has them all screwed up. Neither one of them would eat their cat food when I fed them this noontime. Easiest way to screw with a cat's head is to rearrange the furniture.

No quality time in the shop today. I was tired and way too sore after this fun adventure. Tomorrow should be a topper for today because I get to play Mr Plumber. I'll have to shut the water off to whole house when I do that. The one good thing in my favor for that is the temperature. It is supposed to top out in the low 50's.  I won't have to worry about heat loss because I will also have to shut the boiler down too while I play Mr Plumber.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How long did the Battle of Waterloo last?
answer - about 10 hours

took a partial day off..........

Sat, 02/18/2017 - 2:02am
No oh dark thirty trips to Lowes or Home Depot this morning. Instead of that I slept in because the peepers failed open at 0130. There isn't a lot of quality entertainment on the boob tube that early in the morning. I did get to watch a NOVA program on origami that was interesting. I don't remember when I finally fell back to sleep but the peepers didn't fail open again until 0600.

I got started on installing the bottom cabinets but I still don't have any installed. I found my high and low spots, struck some lines, stood around looking at it, and took a whole lot of breaks. I had some errands to run so my wife and I decided to do them and go out for lunch.

During lunch we decided to make a left turn on the counter top. My wife was going to order it from Home Depot. Here's the kicker - if we get just the counter top, it's $700. They will deliver it and haul away the old one. That's it.

If I want them to install it, cut out for the sink, and attach the plumbing, the cost is now $3000. WTF? It shouldn't cost an extra $2000 to do this work which shouldn't take more then two hours, 3 at the most. Lowes is basically the same too. No one will do the whole nine yards without me coughing up a wheelbarrow full of money.

I will be doing the sink install myself. As much as I hate contorting my old, fat body to maneuver under the sink, I refuse to pay that kind of money. I will also be making my own counter top. My wife and I decided (mostly her) that it should be tiled. It's bit more work for me but I feel better taking it on than paying the exorbitant fees.

got real lucky here
 The corner cabinet just happens to land on the high spot. I find it easier to work out of a corner high going to low than the other way around.

an inch difference on the right
The top line is the level line coming out of the corner. The level line in the corner is set at the height of the corner cabinet.  The short line beneath the level one is the height of the cabinet at that point.  The floor slopes away here but I have never felt it before. It's hard to ignore this visual. That explains why pots on the stove pool liquids on the right side.

left side coming out of the corner
This side is about 3/8" off the high level line. I won't have to shim up as much here. I got the corner cabinet in the kitchen and put it place and it's crowding the water pipes for the sink. It already looks like the three stooges installed plumbing here. I don't want to have to reroute the water pipes but it's something I may have to do. I had to pull this cabinet back out to mark the stud locations and make a layout line for a 2x4. I need to screw that to the floor so I can then screw the cabinet into that. An inch is too much to raise up just on shims.

Evaporust bath this time
This is the chipbreaker I just got in the mail that had the iron that is toast. I bought another iron this time based on it's size of 2 5/16". It's a name I never heard of and I'm taking a chance on it fitting my 4 1/2. I already soaked this in citric acid and after hitting it with sandpaper I noticed a few pits. I decided to treat it with Evaporust too.

the original 4 1/2 chipbreaker
Look at the curve on this and how thin it is.

the one in the Evaporust now
The curve on this one isn't as pronounced as the one above. It is also thicker than the top one.

it is a gentle curve
my oldest Bailey dated anything
The patent date is 150 years old and that makes this at least that old or a bit younger but not by much. Evaporust puts a film on what is soaked in it. I want that protection to get down into the pits on this on both sides.

my low studs from Bill Rittner came in
I got the matching brass barrel nuts too. One set will be used on my first #3 and the other on the second one I bought.

new knob on my first #3
I like the scale of this knob a lot. I think it fits the scale of the plane much better then the previous tenant here.

the yet to be finished rehabbed #3
The scale of these knobs is the same as my first #3. I have a rear tote for this coming, when I don't know. I ordered an assortment of 4x36 sanding belts, 80 to 400, from Amazon so I can finish the sole and sides on this plane. These sanding belts are made for metalworking so they should last for a while. The ones I've been using up to this point have been woodworking ones.

getting the size for the crest rail
I don't like the design that is in the pic for the towel holder. I want the two ends of this crest rail to end above the sides of the towel holder. I'll wait until I have the shelf installed before I make the pattern for it.

went back to the rehabbing #3
I used the rat tail file and sandpaper to clean up the chip taken out of this side of the plane. I wanted the metal here to be smooth and shiny like the rest of the plane.

crest rail
I made the width of this oversized just in case. I think 6" wide would be ok and this is 8 1/2" just in case.

almost forgot this
This faucet set is only a couple of months old. I am going to recycle this into the new sink.

I still haven't chopped the pins on the tequila box. I think I'll try to squeeze it tomorrow. I would do it in the morning but I don't want to risk waking up my wife. It should only take about 15-20 minutes to do, if and when I do it. I want to get this done so I can get the tequila out of the shop. I don't want to risk inadvertently breaking it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What are the 8 Rocky Mountain States?
answer - Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico

day two of the kitchen redo......

Fri, 02/17/2017 - 3:11am
Doing this kind of work sucks at my age. I still know how to do it but the body can't keep up with the mind. I had to make countless trips up and down the cellar stairs coming and going from the kitchen to the shop. That wasn't that bad and I could have done that all day. What sucked out loud was fighting gravity. Going down wasn't that easy but the overcoming of gravity coming back up was horrendous. I was ready for the rocking chair and nap when I got done. I have already told my wife that this is it for me fixing anything on the house that is more involved than changing a light bulb.

first of two problems I found at 0700
At 0600 I was at Lowes buying a 4x8 sheet of 1/4" under layment. I had four big pieces but they weren't enough for want I needed. After I got back home from there I decided to get the size of the inside width of the towel holder. I had to do something that wouldn't wake up the wife.

It was another should of, could of, would of, but didn't do kind of  moment. I knew I should have waited until I had the closet rod holders before cutting the shelf and back stretcher. I made them14" long and I thought that would be more than sufficient. Turns out it wasn't.

With the distance between the two rods holders at 12 1/2", the outside measurement ballooned out to 16" and change.

this stuff won't stretch at all
 This won't go to waste. I'll put it back in the stash pile and I'm sure this will end up as a box or something else someday.

problem #2
I bought a new iron and a chipbreaker and last night it spent the night in a citric bath. This side of both looked to be pretty good. No rust, pitting, or chips missing. And the iron has a good length to it.

the other side of the chipbreaker
It looks grungy and dirty but I've only treated it for rust. I'm sure that this will sand out to be nice and shiny.

the iron is toast
I have about a 1/16 of good metal at the edge then an ocean of pitted metal. The pits are too deep, too numerous, and occupy way too much real estate. At least I have a good chipbreaker that maybe I can put on my 4 1/2. It might help with the adjuster length I have on it now.

what dragged me in the dirt
I can still remember when something like this would have taken me maybe an hour to do. And that would include a coffee break and reading the newspaper on the porcelain throne. Today this little job took me 3 hours and wore me out. I thought I would be done putting in the 4 cabinets today but it didn't happen. Maybe two tomorrow and and last two on saturday or sunday with the possibility of monday.

making moldings
The pic of the towel holder shows the gallery rail as a square piece of stock with dowels for the spindles. There are 6 spindles too which I find unusual because an odd number looks better than an even number of them. I also want the front edge of my gallery rail to be molded. This was run #1.

Caleb James 3/16" bead plane
This is the plane I used to make both edges of the molding above.  I like it except for the center tongue. If that was gone, I would go with that one.

beading plane #2
I don't know that size of this beader is. I can't make out the maker, the owner, or the size stamped on either the toe or the heel.

a hollow
I used this to round over the top edge of the molding. I can barely make out the number 10 stamped on the heel. Instead of a round over, I got more of an ellipse shape. It doesn't look that good.

beader #3
Don't know the size of this beader but I picked it thinking it would make a larger bead on the edge of the board. I'm not liking this one too much.

head on
I had a 3/16" bead on the top edge and this bigger bead on the bottom edge. I was trying to use two planes to mold both top and bottom. Looks like crap because the bigger one ate up some of the top one.

my one and only side bead plane
This plane puzzles me. First, I'm not sure how to use it. There were no instructions with it when I bought it. There are no spring lines on it. By it's very name, I assume that the bead is angled whereas my beads above were all at 90°. There is also no obvious (to me anyways) stop. Lastly, it is a mystery to me how to start it. There isn't a registration rabbet, shoulder, or notch to start it in or on.

pit stop to sharpen and hone the iron
This iron wasn't sharpened which surprised me. I must have gotten frustrated with trying to get a profile with it and stuck back in the plane till. I flattened the back, sharpened, honed, and stropped the profile. I did this because my first two attempts at making a profile were a dismal failure. And I already know that sharp cures a lot of ills.

I think I figured it out
I used my fingers as a fence against the back edge of the board. Keeping the plane vertical I started at the nose and worked back to the rear end. Once I got it established end to end, the plane seemed happy and planed end to end.  It didn't wander and stayed parallel to the front edge. I also tried doing it with the plane held at an angle towards me but that didn't work out too well. I think the correct way to do is running the plane vertically. The profile looks good done that way and it stopped cutting too on it's own. I wasn't expecting that.

the finished molding
I like the look of this but I don't have a warm and fuzzy about the square part at the top.

oak spindles
I would use these if the rail wasn't being painted. Oak looks too grainy under paint. I will have to make a pit stop at an Arts & Craft store. I am pretty sure I can find some made out of maple or some other kind of smooth wood.

This is a better shot of how the square portion of the molding at the top over powers the bead beneath it.

the square would look better if it was rounded over

I have a beader
I got this set so that the first circle straddles the square portion of the molding.

had to brace it
The rail was bowing on me as I was running the plane along it's length. The T brace fixed that hiccup.

I like this a lot
I ended up with a small rabbet on the top that I planed off,

the only hiccup
Both the lead in and the exit, weren't fully molded. I don't need the entire length of this so I can saw off these two areas.

8 of the 10 cutters
some of the cutters had rust blooms
This only the 3rd time I have used this plane. Most of the irons were clean and the few with the blooms cleaned up quickly.

fancy box
The box holds eight cutters. It is made out of 1/8" thick plywood that is a frog hair thicker than the irons. One iron is kept in the plane and the last one won't fit in here due to it's shape. I oiled these and put them away.

why I bought the beading plane and the one that won't fit
This is a rusty 1/8" and 1/4' scratch iron. The idea was to use this to make stopped 1/8" grooves for boxes. I tried it and it didn't work out for me. I couldn't get a groove but maybe now that a little time has expired, I can try this again.

it feels sharp
Maybe I should look around on You Tube and see if anything is posted on using this iron. For now, I oiled it and put it away.

gallery rail and back stretcher ready
new shelf glued and cooking
I have to make a new pattern for the crest rail now that the ID has changed by a few inches. I will probably have to glue up couple of pieces for that too.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What country established the first universal emergency phone number?
answer - Great Britain did in 1937 with #999 (the US did it in 1968 with #911)