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Accidental Woodworker

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The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2701125
Updated: 56 min 20 sec ago

it's a libella........

Fri, 11/03/2017 - 1:25am
I got a few comments on what the name of the 'A' thing is.  Sylvain traced it to the Egyptians and Diego said he saw one in a museum in France. I located my book on Roman Woodworking and I found it in there too. I knew that this was a level but I wanted to put a name tag on it. I'm sure the Egyptians had a name for it but I couldn't find it so I am settling for the Roman one. And I'm sure Rome borrowed this from some other culture and called it a libella. This type of level has also been around since dirt was invented. I wonder if the ancient Sumerians invented it. Or if they got it from the Gods as a gift as their cuneiform clay tablets says it was.


Simple Green
I found the Simple Green at Ocean State Job Lot today. It isn't exactly what I was looking for but I took it anyways. I wanted the Simple Green degreaser formula and it says that on the bottle. This one doesn't so I doubt I got that. BTW for Steve - OSJL has the shop lights in stock again for $14.99. I asked the Manager of this one if they would ship between stores and she said no. But she said that other stores should have the same lights in stock.

round 2 of the stripper
I think that this will do it for stripper. I put some on the back of the frog and the yoke.

pile of shavings for round #2 cleanup
the shavings will clean up the stripper
The shavings worked well for this purpose. They absorbed the stripper and they acted like an abrasive and scrubbed some of the japanning off the metal.

forgot the before pic
I would guess-ta-mate that about 90% of the japanning on this is now gone. What little is left I am sure I'll be able to remove by sanding.

plumbline stick is done almost
Still no string for either of these. I looked at the mason's string at Ocean State Job Lot but it looked like it was too thick for the plumb bobs I have.  I am going to make another libella. I rushed in making this one and made a few assumptions that I think are now wrong.

the new libella
Three pieces of stock 1 x 1 1/2 x 16 is what I need for the new one. There aren't any instructions anywhere that I could find on making this. So what I am doing now is again mostly conjecture on my part as to the how and what. On the first libella I just eyeballed what I thought was a good angle, height, and spread on the legs and went from there.  That was mistake #1.

Mistake #2 was not taking sufficient care to layout the top angled half lap properly. I didn't layout the angle on each piece from the same spot and that is why they came out mismatched. That mismatch on the angle caused other problems with getting the legs even and the brace parallel with the bottom of them.

making a full scale pattern
Just about every picture I dug up on a libella showed the 'A' to be an isosceles triangle. I don't know that for sure but they sure looked like that. That makes sense to me as it makes it easy to make the 'A' as precise as I can. The half lap at the top will be at 90° and the leg bottoms will sawn at a 45° angle as will the ends on the brace.

Here I set the brace on the legs until the length of it matched the length of the two legs. Once this is glued up I can then lay a square on the brace and have it align on the apex with the legs. That mark should be where the plumb bob will hang too. I sawed the 3 parts for the libella and stickered them until tomorrow.

this is why Frank
The question was why couldn't I leave the iron in the plane?  I only have a slot in this piece of oak for the skate to fit in. In order to leave the iron in the plane I would have to chop a slanted mortise at 90° to the skate slot. I'm not sure that I could retract the iron high enough and still put the plane in the slot as is.

25°
I am going to make the holder for the 6mm iron tonight. This piece is to match the angle of the iron which is 25° too.

4 of the 5 pieces to make up the iron holder
This is pretty much self explanatory. The small middle piece has the 25° angle on it. I will glue this in place so it's bevel is facing in. That way the bevel of the iron will be sandwiched between it and the back.

by saw, chisel, and sandpaper
Drew an arc on the top back piece first. I then sawed off most of the waste, chiseled it close to the lines, and smoothed it with sandpaper. I left all the pencil marks as this side will be glued  to the box hiding it all.

using the rapid fuse glue again
It did well on the walnut banding for the box so I'm going to try it here too.

all 5 of the parts
The bottom and top pieces are slightly oversized. Once everything is glued up and set, I will plane everything flush and square.

2 frog hairs of room on either side of the holder
backer for the holder
This may or may not happen. This will be out of sight inside the box so I don't see the need to make it pretty. But that hasn't stopped me in the past.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What are you if someone says you are gracile?
answer - you have a slender build

a no title post....

Thu, 11/02/2017 - 1:54am
Almost zero shop time tonight. I had to make a pit stop at Wally World tonight and they don't sell Simple Green. Benny's is or was a Rhode Island institution and it was the first store I remember going in as a kid. They sold Simple Green cheap but they went out of business last week. They weren't exactly a hardware store nor were they a department store.  They were kind of the two but small scale and a few tics above a dollar store. Another memory I can talk about to other people and watch the vacant expressions on their faces.

I will have to wait for the weekend and go to Ocean State Junk Lot and see if they have it. It is a hit or miss affair with that store. You never know what they have in stock. Lowes sells it but for almost 3 times the price Benny's used to sell it for. That will be the absolute last resort.

two for Miles and one for me
Paul Sellers recommends a flat file as an essential tool and I agree. It works wonderfully on smoothing end grain. It will serve double duty filing scrapers too. The japanese square is one I have and I like it. I don't use it much because it is hidden away in a cabinet. Maybe he'll use it more than I use mine.

got this for me
Woodcraft sells 6mm plywood. This 6mm iron will make a groove for it. If it doesn't you will hear me screaming my displeasure that it doesn't.


won't fit in here
I really don't want to keep the 6mm iron in here. I can put the 1/4" iron in the plane and 6mm in it's slot. Or I could just put the 6mm in the plane. I don't like either scenario. I think it would be too easy to confuse one for the other. Besides, I would have to chop a slot in the plane body holder in the box so I can stow the plane body with an iron in it.

what I plan on doing
I will make a holder for the 6mm iron and glue it to this end of the box. I put this box on the sharpening bench so I'll remember to do it this weekend.



dadoes chopped
The chopping went real quick with the 2" chisel. Two whacks covered the 3" + on the width. Used the 1" chisel to knock down the wedge in the middle and flatten it.

router got me to depth
It has taken me quite a while to get to this point with the housing joint. Both of these fit snug and both are self supporting. Worth the struggle to get here and finally to be able to make good fitting housing dadoes repeatedly.

this way
Long grain facing out and end grain facing out on the ends.

or this way
End grain facing up and long grain on the ends.  With this orientation I'll be gluing end grain to long grain. I'll need some kind of fastener to help secure the joint. I could use miller dowels or long screws. With the spacer installed this way I don't have to worry about expansion and contraction  changing the distance from the back to the front edge of the spacer. But I do have to look at the end grain which I don't like.

I went with the first way - long grain facing out. I'll have a strong and secure long grain to long grain glue joint. Expansion and contraction may or may not be a problem. The spacers are about 3 3/8" wide so I'm betting that I won't have to worry about it. And they are both sequential pieces from the same board.

planing the face
This planing run was to clean up all the pencil marks. I've been doing my planing wrong as I usually start here and plane forward.

the way I should be doing it
I don't recall the video I saw this in but Paul Sellers explained how to do it. He said you plane the board is sections, starting at the left end and working back. If you are left handed you would start at the right and work to the left. Paraphrasing what he said, doing it this way you are planing from an unplaned area into one that is planed. The plane isn't going over a freshly planed spot as it would be if I did my way. He's been right on a lot of other things so I'll give a try too.

I'm glad I checked this
The one on the left is square to the back but this one was off. It was leaning to the right a few frog hairs. It took me a few whacks with the mallet to get it square and to keep it there. I came down after dinner to make sure it was still square - it was.

I wanted to get the second round of stripping on the plane done but it will have to wait. I got a throw away brush to slop the stripper on and I hope that it'll last so I can do the other two planes with it too.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is hippopotomonstrosesquippedaliophobia (36 letters)?
answer - a fear of long words


PS I found my Roman Woodworking book and the 'A' thing is a libella in Latin and was used by stone masons and woodworkers.

oh no Mr Bill......

Wed, 11/01/2017 - 1:03am
A blast from past Saturday Night Live days. I had a Mr Bill moment tonight in the shop. I was snapping my last pic before shutting out the lights and I noticed a boo boo. I don't know how many pics I thought I had snapped but it made no never mind. I didn't have a SD card in the camera. I saw it on the last pic because I actually read what was on the LCD screen. It said no camera card installed. The first thought I had that echoed in the brain bucket was, "what idiot forgot to not only put in the card but didn't notice it sooner"?  Ah, that idiot would be me because I can't blame my wife or the cats for it.

Some pics I could snap again like the very last one. The others I didn't try to stage again. So I took a few to show the what I had done. But it was a short night in the shop so I'm sure the pic count would not have been too high anyways.


the after pic
 I sanded the interior and cleaned it with Orange Clean. I wanted to use Simple Green but I couldn't find the bottle. Then I remember my wife had taken it. I wanted to clean the inside of grease, dirt, etc before I applied the stripper. The stripper worked from the frog seat aft rather well. Forward of the frog seat, not so good. What little japanning that was left there didn't all come off.


this actually looks better
I used the spray stuff tonight for round one. Tomorrow night I will use the paste stuff on the left. The plane collector uses this and he lets it sit for 15 minutes before rinsing it off. I don't have a sand blaster like him so I'll be trying another round of stripper. After round #2 I'll see what I can do with a wire wheel in a drill.

from NH plane parts
I found this after my first 3 hunts came up dry. I snagged this set as soon as I saw it. I didn't even look at the price until I checked out. Almost no rust, dirt, or grunge on either piece. And the iron has a whole lot of life left to it. This will be going in Miles's #6.


why I bought it
This was the iron in Miles's #6 plane. I am going to hang onto the iron and see if I ever get anywhere near to it's use. I now have an extra chip breaker that I don't have to buy. I need one for a bare iron out of a 4 1/2. This chipbreaker is the first one I have bought that had the front forward end stoned so that it lays absolutely flat on the iron.



plumb bob for the 'A' thing - still no proper name for it

plumb bob for the Plumb line stick
Now I have to buy some twine or cotton cord. All I have is some fish line and I don't want to use that if I don't have to.

it is the center

I drew a line from the bottom angle by my finger, to the apex of the top one. It went almost dead nuts through the diagonals I drew yesterday. I am going to put the hole for the plumb bob string about a 1/2" above the center point.

prepped the plumb line stick
I checked for twist on the flat face I did yesterday and found none. I checked the opposite face and it had a teeny bit that I planed out. I then squared both edges, sawed and squared up the two offsets, and laid out where the dados will go. I'll chop them out tomorrow and glue them in place.

here is the pic of the outside edge Frank
This is the 15" square I just bought. It definitely isn't square but it also isn't a large round over neither. The question that is bugging me now, is why is it rounded and not square?

maybe it is for this????
The only thing I came up with this is that it helps somehow with checking for an outside square reading. With the roundish edge it will be easier to set it down this way and position it.


portable square till
My lunchtime doodling. I am thinking of making a portable till/box to keep the squares in. Having this will free up a lot of real estate in the tills in the toolbox. If I don't do that, I may have to make a bigger tool box. I bought what looks to be a 12 inch copy of the 15" square.  I think I can get all of the squares in this. The drawing doesn't show the 12 and 6 inch combo squares.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first black actor to win an Emmy as a lead actor in a comedy series?
answer - Robert Guillaume for Benson in 1985   (he passed away last week)

lots of nothing......

Tue, 10/31/2017 - 1:11am
I sure felt like I should have had more to show for tonight than what I thought I did. I was expecting a few toys to be waiting for me but I only had one show up. I still haven't heard from Bob about my saw being ready to come back to me. I wasted my lunch time trying to find the proper name of the "A" plumb bob thing I am making with no luck. I thought I would have found something because it was used to make the pyramids in ancient Egypt. So it has a bit of age not to mention history. And I'm still waiting on my book from LAP to come in. I'm starting to get a wee bit nervous that the USPS might have given my book to someone else.

I'm adding to my whining above a lack of sleep. I don't know why but I woke up this morning a few tics after double balls (midnight - 0000) and I could not get back to sleep. After tossing and flopping like fish out of water, I finally got up at 0300. I remember having a dream before I woke where I was using my "A" plumb bob thing to build a log cabin and my shoes started to unravel at the seams. That is when I woke up. Maybe I'll finish the dream tonight and find out why my shoes unraveled.

new strops cut out
All 3 of them are tad over three inches wide. The far left one is 11 1/4" long and the other two are an inch longer. I am going to weigh them down with a plane for few days to flatten the roll in them. Then I'll glue them to a substrate, probably 3/4" plywood.

big square came in
This is bigger than I envisioned it being. I was going to stop with this and forgo getting a 12" one but I may have to adjust that thinking. This is a big ass square.

17" on the outside
15" on the inside
happy face on - it's square on the inside

square on the outside
The outside edge of the wooden handle is rounded. The inside edge is square and faced with a brass plate. That doesn't explain why the outside edge isn't square too. It doesn't appear to be something the previous owner did but maybe came this way? It is a slight round and not pronounced at all.

ear to ear smile now
This is my Chappell square (18" model) and it says it is dead nuts on the inside.


square on the outside
In spite of the rounded edge, I had no problems feeling and getting the framing square aligned on the 15" square.

I like the size and capability of this square
I had looked for some one still making a 15" square and a company in England still does. At that time it was almost $200 to get it here across the pond. I didn't get it because there were 10 negative comments on it for every positive one. That is why I bought the Chappel square instead. After only a few minutes playing with this, I may have a hard time giving it to Miles.

It won't fit in the bottom
fits in the big till
I am not a fan of having a square flopping around in a till. I like having them secured and protected from getting banged by other tools. For the time being I'll keep it in here but it won't be staying here long term.

lots of room
I made the half laps a bit longer because I knew I would be sawing these off.

cleaning up "A"
legs are still off

measured, marked, and sawed off the longer leg again
still a 1/4" off
The left leg is 4 7/8" and the right one is 4 3/4".

I think I'm chasing tail
I planed the right leg flat to match the line on the dog block and I'm still off. Before I go off into La La Land, I'm going to have to think a bit about this.  The top angle for the legs being off is really screwing around with my brain bucket. I don't have the plumb bob yet so I'll set this aside for now.

doesn't look like the middle
This is similar to finding the center by drawing the diagonals on a square and I wasn't sure if it would work on this angle. I measured the 'center point' in four cardinal directions and they were all the same. Visually it doesn't look to be the center but the measurements tell me it is.

rough handle has had a chance to set up
I don't like it
It too big, sits too tall, and it looks like total crappola to my eye. The arch on the bottom isn't even and one leg (left) leans outboard slightly. The scale is off but I do like the color contrast between the walnut and the mahogany. But that is not enough to get me to use it - it's burnt toast.
I'm going knob and handle free
I'm not going to use the feet on this neither. I'll sand this and put on some shellac and call it done.

planed the twist out
Checking with the sticks on the half way point to both ends.

why not
No twist on the edges too.

I planed out the hump
I shut the lights out and headed upstairs. I won't work in the shop if I start to yawn.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is phobophobia?
answer - a fear of phobias

yo-yo weather.........

Mon, 10/30/2017 - 1:17am
The weather has been a little screwy lately. It has been unseasonably warm but one day last week had dipped down into the 40's overnight. We also had one day where it rained all day like a cow letting go on a flat rock. That day sucked because I got soaked going into work. We still haven't had the first frost of the year and tonight it is forecasted to rain again with high winds > 50MPH. Not that I'm complaining because everyday that is warm is one less day I have to pay for heat.

quiet time work
I worked on fitting the lid and cleared most of the other crappola off the bench.

two strops?
I am going to make at least two strops out this. One more for me that is longer than the ones I have now and one for Miles. The strops I have now are about 8" long and 3" wide. I think the width is ok but the length is too short. I can get 3 strops from this piece of leather each one 3" wide by 12" long.

walnut banding is solid
The glue appears to be ok with holding the walnut. There aren't any gaps anywhere that I can see. I am not depending upon the walnut to hold the lid on. The banding is to hide the strips I glued on the bottom of the lid.

very snug fit
The lid goes on this way and won't fit when I flip it 180. It probably would if I thumped it but I didn't want to chance popping the banding off.

marked the connection
I marked the lid  and bottom for the best fit before I glued the walnut on. It fits this way but not 180.

chisel action
I used the chisel as a scraper and went around the inside of the lid. I concentrated on getting any glue residue off first and checked the fit. It fit on the numbers and when I flipped it 180. It was a wee bit snug, but it fit.

tight on the left and some daylight on the right
I scraped the inside of the walnut until I saw daylight all around. I then sanded the top outside rim of the box with 120 grit. That did two things for me - first it loosened the fit of the walnut and it closed up the toes on the miters. I finally got the lid to fit both ways, equally well.

rounded over the lid banding
I sanded this corner again. The toes of the miter are closed at the top and open at the middle. I sanded coming from both sides until the miter closed up.

rounded over the top of the lid
Made a decision regarding this box. Taking the lid off is too much to do one handed. It is too wide to easily and comfortably be removed one handed. It needs a knob or a handle to do that. I won't be using this box to keep the 140 in. I'll have to make a 3rd 140 box.

first knob choice
Don't like it and I won't be using it. I thought of making a base or a pad for it but I don't think even that will help this look.

3 more knob choices
The metal knobs are toast but the ring pull I kind of like. I think that would look ok with a base for it. I think a base is needed to beef this up because the lid is only a piece of 1/8" plywood. Without a base behind any kind of a knob or handle, the lid might flex.

found some feet
I had forgotten that I had these. Since it isn't going to be the 140 box anymore, I'll use them on this. I can give this as a xmas present with a gift certificate in it. Or stuffed with some of my daughter's favorite candy.

going to make a walnut handle
flushed
Worked on flushing this while I thought of what I wanted to make for a handle.

#8 hollow
I squared up the walnut stick and used the #8 to knock off the corners. I wasn't trying to make it round but just come up with a shape that was inbetween round and square.


fixing the Disston 6" square
I didn't like the look of the walnut handle so I worked on this square while I thought of something else. The light area on the bottom square isn't daylight. It is what I filed to bring the inside of it square. The outside was dead nuts and didn't need any help.

done
It took a few extra cha-cha dance steps but it is square now. I did 3 checks for square. The first was with the 6" engineer's square, second was drawing double lines on the plywood, and third was checking the square edge on the plywood. All three passed and I did one more final check with the 6" engineer's square. I have a 15" square coming and I should have that next week. That will complete it for these style of squares for Miles's toolbox. I still want to get a 4" sliding square and I might have to bite the bullet and buy a Starrett.

half laps on the legs done
Now that the leg half laps were done, I flipped this over and marked the brace for it's half laps.

feet leveling
Because I planed one shoulder on one leg more than the other, the angle between the legs changed. I sawed the legs at the original bevel angle but since the legs aren't even, the horizontal brace isn't parallel to them neither. Once the glue has set on the brace, I'll saw and plane flush the overhanging parts. The ugly looking gap will be history come tomorrow.

I had to plane one leg square, the other one was sawn square
here you can see the tilt in it
According to what I read, this won't effect the reading you get. You take one reading this way and mark where the plumb bob hangs, flip it 180 and repeat. The plumb will be between the two lines. You just have to look at where the plumb bob is hanging in relation to your plumb line to see which side is high/low.

I wanted parallel
I drew a line on the bench and put the legs on it and adjusted it until the brace measured the same from that line to the brace on the outside of both legs. Once I had that I marked the legs and sawed them off. I didn't go nutso on this, I was shooting for an eyeball close look and I got that.

had to make a pit stop
I dropped this off the bench right on the point. This is the backside of the knife after I restored it. I still had a bit more to go but I was very surprised by how easily I did it. This was my first experience sharpening a japanese anything.

got my point back
I tried it out and it felt as sharp as when I first got it.

decided to sharpen the iron on my new blockplane
This iron has been hand sharpened and it is out of square. I can tell it is has been sharpened by hand because the bevel is rounded and it is also uneven. First batter is grinding a new bevel and squaring it.

10 strokes on the 80 grit runway
The stripe down by the heel is what I just did. I have a long ways to go before I get to the toe.

got a hump
I wasn't going to do the back because it looked like it had been done already. Took me about 20 minutes to get rid of it.

adjuster knobs
The one in my fingers is the LN knob and the one in the back is a replacement one. It has a bearing where the ring is on the LN one. That makes for zero backlash and a silky smooth adjustment on moving the iron in or out. It is made by an  Australian  and he makes them for the LN 102 and 103 small block planes too. I am going to get one for the LN 60 1/2 and for the 102.

done
Silky smooth, effortlessly made wispy shavings. This is a good addition to the herd and it will get well used by me. I had started lapping and cleaning up the cheeks and sole by stopped. There is some pitting on the right cheek and the sole that wasn't lapping out with 220. I didn't feel like starting with 80 and working up. For now it has been done with 220 and 320 followed by some Autosol. I will do it eventually because I don't like seeing the pits. But for now she is ready to go back to work.

I'll keep it in here for now
Until I get around to rearranging the plane storage under my bench, this will have to live here for now.

replacements for the hasp
The left one isn't brass but a shiny white metal color. If it was brass I wouldn't be putting the black one on.

done
I like this but I am not in love with the cheap look and feel of it. It works well for lifting the lid and the curl is below the top so it won't interfere with crap being piled on the lid. But I will be looking for a replacement that isn't a stamped, cheap piece of crappola like this.


Update: Found a solid brass one from House of Antique Hardware and I almost skipped on it. S/H was $3 less than the sash lift.

the back for the plumbline stick
There is a teeny bit of twist on the far end that I'll have to remove. The author said that this should be twist free. I'll do that tomorrow because I fell off the wagon with taking my arthritis  pills again. My fingers are aching on my right hand and this is a good place to stop. I'll get the stick done tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is hexakosioihexekontahexaphobia?
answer - a fear of the number 666

saturday doldrums.....

Sun, 10/29/2017 - 3:12am
It seems I've fallen into a rut on getting my butt into the shop on saturdays. I'm sucking up OT on saturday mornings at least for the next couple of months. I will have Lowes paid off by the first payday in November. After that I will start feeding the workbench build kitty again and whatever is left will go to heating the house. And I can't forget that xmas is less than two months away.

But getting back to the rut I seem to have fallen into with saturday shop days. Maybe I should just go with the flow on this and just accept getting to the shop after lunch isn't too bad. I can be a wee bit nutso and OCD rolled together with this being on a time schedule. Coming home and vegging after OT and hitting the shop after lunch isn't going to stop the sun from rising or setting. Once got to the shop and started working on the walnut banding on the lid, the juices started to warm up and I started a left field project.

mitering the lid
The quick way of doing this would be to make butt joints at the corners. To me that would look like crap so I'm mitering the corners. I've settled into a way of doing them that I like and also yields good results. Before I started doing my mitering this way I usually always ended up with the last miter being open.

Now I start by clamping one piece in place. The fit on that side doesn't matter. This first piece is only used to set and mark the second one.

first piece
I fuss with this until I get the heel of the miter dead nuts on the corner. I clamp it and make sure it didn't move and that it can't move.

my setting line
This pencil is the top of the banding. I will set the walnut so that I cover this when I glue them in place.

marking the first piece to be glued down
I hold the right end up tight against the first piece and mark the left end. Rough saw it and then use the donkey ear jig to shave it to the knife line.

I'll shave this until the knife line is barely visible.
I'm going to try this glue
This glue sets up in about 30 minutes and the final cure is 24 hours later. I haven't tried using it for anything other then gluing chips and blowouts back down. If it doesn't work, I'll remove the walnut and try something else.

two sides glued on
I have to wait at least 30 minutes for this to set up so I can put on the last two.

one of my left field projects
I got this bug up my butt from this guy on Saw Mill Creek. I've been following him and these gizmos got a hold of my limited attention span. I have seen the one above that he has in this 3rd post being used but at the time I had no idea of what it's purpose or use was.  I don't know what I'll use it for or that I even have a need for it. But that has never stopped me before with making something. I have piece of 5/4 pine that I'm using to make it.

I got the back long piece cut out and I had to stop. The workbench is being use to do the lid so I couldn't plane and work the 5/4 stock. I'll pick this one back up tomorrow.

it's been an hour
I got the final two pieces on without any hiccups and I'll let it set up until tomorrow.

gizmo #2
I did a bit of reading on this and I was surprised about how accurate it really is. The construction of it doesn't matter. The joints don't have to be dead nuts because of the principle of the plumb bob. The legs don't have to be the same length neither. You just have to split the difference with the plumb bob reading taken from both sides.

I already bought a plumb bob that looks a lot like the one in my drawing. It is very difficult to find one of these that don't cost a boatload of dollars. Since plumb bobs were replaced with lasers and other electronic gadgets they have become collectibles.

a scrap of pine saw in two for the legs
a piece of pine from this board will be the horizontal leg
eyeballed an angle
I used the dividers to find the half way point on the width. I set my marking gauge to that. It is these dividers that I want to get for Miles. I like and prefer the round leg vs the square ones.

the more I use this saw, the more I'm liking it
I sawed the shoulders and cheeks with this saw. I did better and felt more in control of it than with the thin plate LN saws. I was able to saw closer and truer to my lines too.

didn't have much to true up
less than one frog hair proud
ubiquitous blurry pic
I marked both sides off each piece and I don't understand how I am off this much. The only thing I can think of is that I sawed on the wrong side of the top knife line. But I would have had to have done that on both of them. This is too much to leave as is and too much to plane flush.

tenon plane to the rescue
I planed the shoulders on both legs, taking more off of this one. This leg seemed to be a bit shorter than the other.

closed it up a lot
This I will plane out flush once it is done.

ancient tools deserve to be glued with an ancient glue
that is a good joint line

did just as well on this side too
last strip glued on
I only glued on one strip before and started to work on the 2nd plumb bob tool. That one was glued and setting up so I finished this. Over 30 minutes had gone by so I didn't have to worry about the last piece I glued moving on me.

a hasp or a handle
Since I put the dust shield banding on this toolbox, it is not easy to open. It needs something to help with lifting the lid. I thought of putting on a handle but I think the hasp is going to be the winner. My first choice was a snap catch but the dust shield banding isn't wide enough to fit one of them here.

it fits
I am not going to lock this. The hasp is just to help lifting the lid more easily. I think a handle would look out of place but this will look like it belongs. I'm still undecided about this and I have plenty of time to make my mind up on it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What do the letters in CAPTCHA stand for?
answer - completely automated public truing test to tell computers and humans apart

lid fitted........

Sat, 10/28/2017 - 12:47am
The folding caliper rule I ordered from Hyperkitten was waiting for me when I got home. A nice 6' clean and functional specimen that doesn't look like it was used much. No dings, the leaves all opened and closed freely, and all the numbers and divisions are still clear and crisp looking.  I definitely think it was worth the $15 I paid for it.


got surprise here - Miles's ruler is on top and mine is on the bottom
I would have bet a lung that I owned a Stanley folding caliper rule. Not only do I own a Lufkin, it is a #46 just like the one I got for Miles.  Although they are the same model # there are a few differences between them. I have some extra markings that the top one doesn't have. Or I could have a #46 that is an  older model. One big difference is my numbers are slightly larger.

another difference in the size (width)
I'm going to go out on a limb and say that my Lufkin is the older one. I'm basing that on bigger numbers, more Lufkin ID stuff between the numbers 1 to 6, and my rule appears to have bigger metal pieces for the folding leaves. Manufacturers usually dumb down to save money. Anyways, Miles still has a decent folding caliper rule for his toolbox.

some screwdrivers for Miles
I am going to soldier on with the two sets I have and give this one to him. I will add a #1 and a #2 square drive to complete this. Most of the screws I use are square drive and I want Miles to have the capability to use them too.

lid fitted
I left the fit a bit on the snug side because I still have to even out the rim and round over the top of the banding.

cocked upwards on the right
flipped the lid 180 and still higher on the right
The important thing is it fits and it fits when the lid is flipped 180. Now I have to figure out why the lid  is higher on the right.

I don't think it's the lid
If the lid was the culprit I would have expected the lid cocking to switch when I flipped the lid 180. But with the lid flipped, the high end stayed on the right.

right end of the banding is higher than the left
my lowest spot
The left corner is the lowest spot on the banding so I'll straighten out the banding to this point.

done
I planed the high corners first and when I eyeballed them close to the low spot, I started to flush all around.

little bit of a gap on the right
This isn't too big of a worry for me. This will be covered with the walnut banding and never be seen. I am more concerned with it being level and even at this point.

lid flipped 180
It still fits but I didn't make the gap go away.

four sides and lid planed and cleaned up
flushed the top and bottom
After I get the walnut banding on the lid done, I can start putting the shellac on.

trying out my miter guide
This worked ok. No problems with the left one but the right one makes a slanted miter. I knew that because the vertical part of the guide is not plumb.

slanted miter
I didn't leave enough to trim on the pieces I cut. I thought I add left an 1/8" but the length of the four parts is almost perfect.

beveled 3 sides
The  side without a bevel will be up against the right side of the box.

small detail
I think this looks better than just a plain rectangular block in the bottom. This will get screwed to the bottom of the box with no glue. This way I can repurpose this box if I decide to.

won't make it
3 of the miters have a slant to them. If I didn't have those slanted miters, I would have been able to use these. The slants leave the miters open and that makes it look like crap.

sawed and planed a backing strip for the miters
the original long strips
I can reuse these to make a new set of short ones for the ends.

my last two
I rooted around my small scrap box and found these two. I will use them to make two new long pieces. I'll make sure that I leave some meat for trimming and fitting.


I'll do the lid banding tomorrow
My wife has been in "I hate my job" mood all week. Just in case, I want to be ready to go out to eat when she gets home. So I shut off the lights here and headed upstairs.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was the number of the last Apollo mission to the moon in 1972?
answer - Apollo 17

finishing steps......

Fri, 10/27/2017 - 1:19am
Ran into another problem at work with my blog. I have been getting certificate errors on my blog and a few other internet sites I look at. Certificate errors are sometimes caused by timing problems - your computer clock may be off from the master internet clock. With my work computer I'm not so sure. It could be a server algorithm that is targeting my IP because I visit certain sites everyday. I say that because I only have certificate error problems with the sites I visit a lot.  Unplugged shop and the BBC news are two other problem sites. I'll have to ask Robin about it the next time I see her in the office.

I my have to revise my blogging and  posting schedule. So far when I go in the morning before work starts I've been able to log into my blog. This is when I do my final proof read of the blog before I post it. If I can't do that I'll have write and proof read at night. I can then post from my phone - or at least I think I can - in the morning as I usually do.

sometimes you get a break
There is a slight cup to both but not a deal breaker. I really only have to plane the cup out of the lid. The bottom one will be glued to the box and that will eliminate that.

time to saw the splines
I don't have good luck scoring splines with a knife and snapping them off. I do better with a saw so that is what I used.

exactly what I didn't want to happen
The splines are thin and fragile. What I don't want is to have one snap off beneath the sides. I breathed a sigh of relief here.

no more hiccups with the rest of the splines
Comparison time. The lid splines were done with yellow glue and the box with hide glue. I can't see a difference between them.

opposite end of the lid
Other than the lid splines being thinner, all the glue lines are tight and gap free.

lip banding glued in place
I almost didn't get this glued up. The glue swelled the joints enough that the last piece I glued in I thought I would have to beat it in place with a mallet. I was able to put my tonnage on top of it and push it down into place. The joints are all snug and I didn't need to clamp it.

hard to see the filler strip I glued on this side

you can make it out on this long side
I got a pretty good match on 3 sides but I don't like seeing this.

walnut banding
After I get the lid fitted and the box cleaned up I'll wrap the bottom edge of the lid with this walnut. That will hide the strips I glued on and provide another positive grab of the lid on the bottom.

here's the pics Bob - Miles's saw herd

A crosscut and rip panel saw and a carcass saw. I think I will keep this carcass saw and give Miles my LN carcass saw. That one is lighter and has a thinner plate and might be a better choice for him to learn on. I have a rip tenon saw being sharpened that I am keeping also so I'll have to get Miles a tenon saw.

coping saw
This is an Olsen coping saw and it was mine until I got a Knew Concept coping saw.  Miles may end up with one them too because I'm not particularly fond of this one.



the plane herd
 A #9 and #60 1/2 blockplane in the foreground. At the rear from L to R, a #2, #3, #4, and a #5 1/4. Missing from the pic is a #6 that I am in the process of rehabbing.

Stanley 71
big till tray has only two marking gauges
A Stanley #71 that can do double duty as a mortising gauge and a marking gauge. The right one is a Stanley #56 with the oval/triangular head.

smallest till tray
 A couple of bevel gauges and one divider. I'll be adding at least one more divider - I am looking for a small one to layout dovetails with. I have grown rather fond of my 3" machinist dividers with round legs and I want one for Miles.

middle  tray
I have a 6' folding Lufkin rule coming that will complete the measuring tools. I have to file the 6" square on the inside to get that to be 100% and I want to get a 12" square.  On last square I want to get him is a 4" sliding one, preferably a Starrett.

can't forget this
The toolbox is an important tool also. This one also has a rolling dolly that is and will be a must have for any other toolbox I make. As I fill this up I'll post what goodies are going in it.

planed the hump and wings off
The bottom is ok but the top needs more work. I still haven't decided how the top will be attached so the planing of it can wait on that. The bottom will be glued on and I'll add some kind of feet to it.

thumbnail plane for  1/2" stock
This is the profile I'm thinking of using on the bottom and I planed a piece of scrap to get an idea of how far from the edge the profile is.

not sure I like that look for the bottom
found another choice
I have another plane made for 1/2" stock that will do the profile on the right. This will look good for the lid and I think it wouldn't look too bad on the bottom neither.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Paul Weitz?
answer - he commanded the first flight of the space shuttle Challenger - he passed away on monday

Mile's tool kit.....

Thu, 10/26/2017 - 1:43am
It may seem that I am putting the cart before the horse getting Mile's tool kit built up now. After all he still hasn't had his first birthday on planet earth yet. That will come in December along with mine but I will continue gathering regardless. I am going to buy a book on woodworking with children from an author who says he has 20+ years experience doing it. The book I'm eyeballing he has projects starting with 4 year olds. So I'll only have to wait 3 more years


I've been gathering tools and I have a good head start so far. I have all the handplanes I am going to give him except for a plow, bullnose, and a rabbet plane. Getting what I have now was easy and most of it I already had. I was looking in the toolbox the other day deciding on what to get next and I wasn't sure. So I printed out Paul Seller's essential tool list.


I looked over the list and I crossed out a lot of what was on there as I already had it. After reading what was left and comparing it to what I had, I don't have much further to go. I was surprised that I had added tools that I consider essential that Paul didn't.


Handsaws were the first item. I put a crosscut and rip panel saw in Miles's toolbox and Paul excludes them. Along with the panel saws, I am going to give him a tenon, carcass, and dovetail saw. Paul's list has the tenon and dovetail saw. And one saw I hadn't considered from Paul's list was the coping saw. A coping saw isn't one that I use frequently and I tend to avoid it's use if I can. I'm not sure about that one although I do think it is an important saw to have.


Block planes were another absent tool. I use block planes all the time and I added the Stanley #9 and #60 1/2 to his kit. I use my block planes a lot and at times more than I use my bench planes. But that is me and how I work wood. I learned my woodworking with block planes from the git go. Paul has said that block planes weren't used during his apprenticeship training. I can see why they weren't on his hit parade of tools.


There were a few other tools I like and think should be in Miles's toolbox that aren't on Paul's list. Since I am going to be hopefully teaching him how to hand tool woodwork he should have the tools that I use now. So instead of using Paul's list verbatim, it'll be a guide list for me. I'll be fleshing out his toolbox with my essential tool list.


One other point I want to make with Miles's toolbox. These tools will be his to use and care for. He will responsible for them. I think it will teach him something beyond just woodworking. I think the principles of caring for and maintaining tools is much better if it is something that you own and isn't a borrowed tool.


I saw a Lufkin folding ruler with a caliper on the Hyperkitten site yesterday that I bought for Miles. I have one of these rulers (not a Lufkin) and it is the first ruler I bought when I was 21. I still have it and I still use it.


If and when I get done with Miles's tool kit I'll post a list of the tools. But first I'll compare it to Paul Seller's list.


accidental woodworker


trivia corner
What will get if someone pelfs you?
answer - money



splines done.......

Wed, 10/25/2017 - 3:19pm
I'm glad I was able to save my new 140 box. I had a lot of calories invested in it and I have few more to expend before I can call it done. I got the splines done tonight and I should have the box 100% by the weekend's end. I added extra time because I am going to finish this with shellac.

out of the clamps
This miter is still slightly opened. The top closed up and stayed that way when I removed the clamps. I'll evaluate this again after I have planed the sides. If need be I can use a trick I used when installing baseboards. On miters like this, I would roll the shaft of a screwdriver up and down the toes closing it onto itself.

still fits
I wasn't expecting this to fit. I was expecting one short leg or one long leg coming into the corner I glued to be a few frog hairs too long. The corner at the front left is the one I glued. I'll glue the banding in after the splines have been installed and set up.

layout for the splines
I laid out these lines to be just to the inside of the thickness of the stock which is a 1/2". I will saw down to these leaving them.

this worked well
I came up and down a 1/2" from the top/bottom and split the distance between them for the third spline.

sawing my splines out

practiced sawing right hand splines too
Not as straight or even as my left hand offerings, but they are thinner.

checking the fit in a test kerf
I was shooting for the splines to be a frog hair over being snug. I want a good fit with the spline and the kerf.

doing the splines in the lid first
making the splines fit
I was beating on the splines, not like a madman, but I was splitting them. Instead of hitting them close to edge straight down, I switched to a glancing blow. That worked at compressing and the flattening the spines without splitting them.

one miter done on the box
interior is clean
I did not saw through into the interior on any of the splines, in the bottom or the lid.

glued and cooking
I used yellow glue on the lid splines. The yellow glue will swell the kerf and the splines and lock them in tight. On the bottom I used hide glue. There the hide glue will dry and pull the kerf and spline together. Which one will do a better job? I'll find out tomorrow.

original 140 box
The 1/2" thick board underneath it will give up the lid and the bottom.

stickered until tomorrow
I may have toast then with at least one board. The left one has already started to cup and if it isn't too bad and I can get a 3/8 thickness out of it, I'll be happy. If not I will saw off another one and see what shakes out with that one.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is samhainophobia?
answer - a fear of Halloween

I won......

Wed, 10/25/2017 - 1:02am
This morning after I had posted my blog I was scrolling down my past  postings and I saw a grammatical error in the 09/13 post. So I decided to fix it. I had left out a word in a sentence which is the biggest sin I make in my postings. I still can't type as fast as I can mentally verbalize. Anyways, the upswing of me fixing that mistake was the blog got posted again. Why? I don't know as all I was doing was editing and fixing a mistake.  I wasn't trying to do a double post or increase anything in the count column. Sorry that it happened and if you were wondering if you had already read it, you had.


On much brighter note, I won the fix with the lid. I had my doubts yesterday that I would be able to do it but I did. Results came out rather well and I'm pleased with them. The next pic is what I started the fix with.

I got all the  filler strips glued on last night
sawed my 45 guides
I did good on the left miter but the right one is slightly off on the vertical. Sawing on my right has always been problematic for me. It is much better than what I was doing a few years back but I still experience sawing off the line. These guides are for rough sawing miters so it being off doesn't matter too much. I planned on using these later on with the fix but I didn't.

sawing off the proud batted next
sawed the corners at an angle
I did this so I could plane the overhang without having to worry about blowing out the corners due to the grain direction on the miters.


rough planed
I will do the clean up and flushing after I fix the bottom of the lid. If that doesn't pan out, there isn't any need to do this.

checking the fit of the base
I knew it was bigger and I factored that in when I made the box. I can lose an inch on the width and a 1/4" on the length.

width is a slip fit and a no go on the length
I'm going to lose a half inch
By taking off a 1/2" on the width I won't have to be concerned about expansion and contraction of the base.

knocked down all the high spots and flushed the corners.
first flushing down
It took me 6 laps before I got a continuous shaving.

front left and back right are way high
I didn't need the sticks to see this. I could tell by looking at this end of the lid that the left side was high.

still a wee bit of twist to remove

got it - flat, straight, and twist free


flat on the bottom all around

flushed the strips to the outside
poplar for the lid banding
I wanted to use walnut for this but I didn't have enough scraps. This will do the job but it won't look as nice as walnut would.

lid banding sawn,trimmed, and fitted
doesn't fit
It fits the width (long sides) a bit snug but it won't fit over the ends.

won't fit on the ends and iffy on the long sides
There is glue squeeze out and one spot where the strip overhangs the dado. Both of them have to be cleaned up.


used the chisel as scraper to clean and flush it
It didn't change the fit of the lid, it still wouldn't go over the ends.

miter opened when I fitted the lid banding
 This was the miter that I thought was opened a little.

glued and clamped
I'll find out tomorrow if this is holding. I think it would behoove me to get some splines in these miters to help strengthen them.

the base was rocking
I planed the high corners until it stopped rocking. There isn't any need to check this with the sticks.

I had to plane an 1/8" off the ends to get it to fit in the box


almost done
I like having my tools in their own boxes, snug as bug in a rug. The front knob is about a 1/4" below the top of the box. There isn't too much wasted real estate in here.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who is the only member of the 1992 Olympic basketball team not in the Naismith Basketball Hall of Fame?
answer - Christian Laettner

over confident.......

Tue, 10/24/2017 - 12:41am
It happens now and then and it always bites you on the arse. Even if you had done this same procedure a 100 times before, the one moment of of inattention will make you feel like a rookie. Sometimes the mistake made is recoverable and other times it isn't. Then there are the times where you are, or think, you are paying attention and you still end up with garbage. Utter disbelief  washes over you as you are gob smacked and don't understand how this could have happened to you.

This is what happened to me tonight. I sawed the lid off of the new 140 box and got crap for my efforts. I went into it with an over loaded boat of confidence. I had just sawn off a lid last week and I am pretty good following a line. So doing this one should be old hat. Well sports fans, I didn't make it out of the on deck circle. More news on this adventure with pics later on in this post.

the original 140 box
I cleaned this one up first and no problems being over confident doing it. I tend to take my time cleaning the dovetails and I'm mindful of tearing out and blowing out. I will have to think of a way of closing in the bottom and doing something for a lid. But that won't be happening tonight.

made it tight
I made the long side a wee bit more than the plane. I had intended to put the fence in a block of wood with a hole in it. That is what drove the height of the box. But while I was making it I didn't like the proportions nor the look. I was going to make this with the lid and bottom installed and then saw it apart. But I also didn't like my alternatives for making the grooves for the lid and bottom along with the lid dado in a dovetailed box. Mitered boxes are made for that, not dovetailed ones.

checking for twist
The bottom, or the top, was twist free. The opposite one had a slight twist that I planed out. I set this side until later in the week.


new 140 box
Miters at the top and bottom look ok. No gaps and the seams look consistent.

these two side miters look the best


the #3 miter
This looks to be worse than it is. All the brown goo is hide glue that stuck to the toes that had a bit a feathering.

#4 I think is slightly open
I won't know for sure until I plane and clean up the sides.

let the hubris overflow
Marked my line all around and commenced sawing. Thinking back on this, I made my first mistake here. I didn't start right on the corner and saw down on both the short and long sides. When I finally did saw on both, I didn't look on the short side to see if I was following the line. I wasn't.

how did I manage to saw a slight curve?

crappy saw cut at the corner
I corrected for this and I noticed that all my errant saw cuts tended to go the right. I was too complacent about this even after I made my first mistake.
another humpty doo
Unfortunately for me, most of the divots and corrections that I'll have to plane out occurred in the lid. There isn't much meat there that I can plane off because of the dado on the inside bottom.

planed the high spots first
After I got the high spots knocked down I started flushing the lid. I also had to plane a bit deep to remove one bad saw cut. Once I got a continuous shaving all around I stopped.

twist free
It took a couple of dance steps of plane and check before I got the green light. The bottom is done and it's on to the top.

the lowest side on the lid
If I plane the other 3 sides down to this low side I won't have much of a lip dado to capture the lid on the bottom. I am a frog hair shy of a 1/8" to plane to even things out if I go that way.

taking a different tack
I planed some of this low side to make it straighter and remove some of  the dip just off center to the right. The plan is to glue a filler strip to it and maybe call it done.

another hiccup
I will have plane this saw cut and on the opposite short side, I have hump there to remove.  I planed the lid even and straight all around. I planed all the boo boos straight and square on this and stepped back to evaluate the next move.

I'll be gluing on new filler strips around the whole box
first strip glued and cooking
The plan is to glue this one on and let it set up for 20 minutes or so. Then I'll glue on a second one and let that set for 20 minutes and repeat until all four on glued on.

accidental woodworking

trivia corner
What are you doing if you are abseiling?
answer - rappelling a cliff face



saw filing and a new 140 box.....

Mon, 10/23/2017 - 1:12am
Ran around this morning early and got all my errands done. I had to wait till 0800 because that is when most places open for business. Got my gas, food for the pie hole, and a wood run to Lowes finished it for today. Getting the errands done early left the rest of the day to do what I wanted. And that was filing the small rip saw and making a different box to stow the 140 block plane in.

Had a bit of scare when it came time to upload my pics today. I almost had an involuntary bowel movement when I saw the pic count was 349. I knew I had taken a few but this made me do a double take to make sure what I thought I saw was what was there. I must of pushed the wrong button somewhere, somehow and didn't realize it. I had to delete almost 300 pictures. And I had to go through all 349 deleting all the ones I didn't want. That ate up the better part of an hour.

quiet time work, ie before the wife wakes up
Glued it up with hide glue. I had two tails that wouldn't seat all the way so I put clamps on those. I set this aside until tomorrow. This won't be used as the 140 blockplane box. It is too tall and I found another way to stow the plane.

drew a sharpie line
I found the lowest gullet on the saw and used that as my low spot to get all the other teeth to.

these teeth are the lowest
added working on toolbox to the list
The paint has had plenty of time to set up so I'm going to put on a couple coats of shellac today and next week I'll put on few coats of poly.

using my new saw donkeys with the spacers
topside of the dolly - no sagging at all
look see at that bottom - I forgot to post these pics when I made it
dust and dirt
Paint attracts dirt and dust like magnet does iron filings. It is hard to dust or wipe it off. That is why I'm putting on the shellac and poly.

bought a 1x12 to make a new bench hook
got a 12' tape for Miles toolbox
old bench hook - almost sawed completely through it - and I used both sides
last side I used
wiped down with a damp rag - I'll work on other things while this dries
filed the teeth
The plan was to file the teeth from the heel to the toe and then joint them. This way after the jointing I would still have something to guide me when I filed the teeth again.

this is what I started with
jointing the tooth line
The shine on the heel is what I've filed/jointed already. I stopped jointing when the low teeth had their tops flattened by the file.

stopped here
If I thought this through correctly, when I file the teeth on either side of this, I should end up with them the same height.

got my first filing done after jointing
It took me about 15 minutes to file from the heel to the toe. I gave each tooth 3 swipes with the file regardless of their shape, height, etc.

not perfect but better
Before I filed this I had a big dip in the middle of the saw. That is gone and I am kind of straight but there are a few sections of teeth that are high and low.

new teeth filed
After the initial run of 3 swipes I went back and filed again. This time I looked at the teeth tops and filed those until the flat was gone.

second filing run done
I have no more flats but my teeth aren't consistent.

I'm going to road test it as is
rough looking but this is pine and it sawed very easy
not sure I did any good on improving this
I filed this again trying to even out the height/uneven teeth in the tooth line. There are a few spots where the tops are low and other spots where the teeth look like crap. After the last filing I conceded that I was pissing into a head wind with this. I did some things right and some wrong. The bottom line is the tooth line isn't even but I'm not discouraged at all. This is a skill that is going to take a while to master and maybe I shouldn't have tried this as one my first attempts at saw sharpening.

I improved the end of the toe
This is a good shot of the crappy tooth line. I had a hard time seeing and focusing on what I was filing. I did it mostly by feel moving the file from one tooth gullet to the next. I didn't look at a lot of the teeth as I filed them. Maybe that was a rookie mistake.

the middle of the saw where the big dip was
I did good on this aspect of the sharpening. The rest will come a little bit slower.

making a new shooting board
can I do this?
I thought I would be clever and offset the cleats on each end. That way as I use up one side, I can flip it over and use the other side. Good idea but it won't work. This side is set for a right handed woodworker (me). Flip it over to the other side and it is set for a left handed woodworker (not me or Miles).

the old shooting board
I will save this and cut it up to make glue sticks. There will be a lot of waste but it is better than just tossing it in the shit can.

sawing out a base for the 140 blockplane
cutout for the fence
Went with stowing the plane flat with the fence attached. Doing it this way means I don't have to make a tall box for the fence. Had to use 3/4" stock for the base because of the size of the fence. I made knife line with the marking gauge and followed that up with the japanese saw. This saw is made for making internal saw cuts - rip or crosscut.

had to removed a bit more for the flanges
now it lays flat on the base
This will be screwed to the bottom of the box.

getting a size for the box
using a mistake
This is from the box I made for my Lee Valley plow plane. I think this one was short on the width but it is oversized for the 140 box.

continuous grain flow layout
This box will be mitered and not dovetailed. I laid out the 45's so I can saw inbetween them.

long side layout
end layout, repeat both one more time

squared the ends
plowing for the dado
I thought about doing the grooves and the dado after I did the 45's but decided to do it now. Any blowout on these will be on the inside and it will be hidden with the top and bottom pieces installed.

did not like being plowed
I tried to plow the middle with the same iron I used to do the two outside ones but it didn't work. I didn't stop to figure out why but got my router plane and finished it with that.

chiseled most of it first and then used the router plane
it fits
I used the Lee Valley 1/8" iron to plow the groove for the 1/8" plywood lid and it fits. I wasn't sure on this because LV sells the 1/8" iron also as the 3mm iron.

rough miters sawn on the miter box
I cleaned these up on the donkey ear jig but first I had to sharpen the iron in the 51 plane.

two coats of shellac on the toolbox
shooting board out of the clamps
Debating on whether or not to make the 45's. It is a bit awkward to saw them on this without them.

too much to plane off
I sawed this off doing it from both ends into the middle.

dry fit of the bottom is good
miters look better than the last box I made this way
sawing out the lid
1/8" plywood saws easily but it can be a PITA sometimes finding a way to hold it so you can saw out a small piece from a bigger piece.

lid dry fit is good
I had to take two extra dance steps fitting the lid. One miter wasn't closing with hand pressure so that necessitated the planing of one long side  and then a short end.

cooking away
I glued everything on this. The plywood bottom and lid are glued with hide glue as were the miters. I want the added strength and the hold it together strength that I got doing that. Before I saw this into two parts, I am going to reinforce the miters with some splines.

I'll have two boxes come tomorrow. The box I glued up this morning at oh dark thirty (used for something else) and this one. I'll have plenty to keep me amused for a couple of more days.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Where is the London Bridge located?
answer - Lake Havasu City, Arizona (since 1968)

140 trick box.....

Sun, 10/22/2017 - 2:42am
This wasn't supposed to be a 140 box but it ended up that way. What I wanted to do went south on me and to recover I used the 140 plane. I wish I could have done the same with my motivation today. After I left work this morning I went to Pepin Lumber and bought some 1/2" pine for the shop. After I got home with it I felt like a deflated balloon that didn't get to make fart noises first and go flying around the room.

I had grandiose plans for today and making the box wasn't one of them. I did that because the other things weren't happening.  I wanted to finish up filing the small rip saw and do some tool sharpening to do but there is always tomorrow. This is what I like about being an amateur woodworker. I have no deadlines to meet nor money to make. I can do what I please and go whichever way the wind blows me.

my Pepin haul
I was expecting only to find the 1/2" stock in 6" widths but I got a surprise. I found two decent 1/2" x 10" wide pine boards. One is 8 foot and the other is 6 foot long. This pile should keep from playing in the streets for while.

10"
This is the first 1/2" thick board I have ever seen this wide and this long before. I would have bought more but I limited storage space and I'm short on dollars this payday. I'll make a return trip next payday and grab any decent stuff then if it is available.

can you see the box here?
I put this as the lead off batter. I am going to try and make the rabbets for the dovetails by hand. The piece on the bench will be the box. It has a slight cup on one face and a hump on the other. The plan was to plane the hump and knock down the wings and make box. No going nutso to get one face  parallel to other. I will to work off of one reference face and edge and see what I end up with. I've done this before and I want to repeat it if I can.

whitish spot in the middle is the cup
This is too much to ignore. I tried to clamp it flat and I couldn't get it flat so I planed the wings off.

can't ignore the twist either
going for a continuous grain flow around the box
Pieces are rough cut to length and labeled on the reference faces.

planed them square and to the same length
lid separation point
This box will be dovetailed and I had planned to make it the same way I did the box I just made last week.

moved the lid separation point
I penciled in the half pins and then checked the first lid point and I didn't like it. The dovetail would be too small and it would also look like crap. I moved it down, making the lid a bit wider.

lunchtime
I got the dovetails laid out on the four ends and taped the two sides together. I sawed the tails after I filled the pie hole with some chinese.

marked the depth of the rabbet on all four ends
wrong choice
When I did the alternative rabbet post I used this butt chisel and it was barely working. The length of it restricted how far I could use it coming in from one end. I had to do it yesterday coming from both ends.  I will need a longer chisel to do the ones I have today.

1/2" paring chisel will work
things went south on me here
The paring chisel work went off without a hiccup. I could still see the gauge line and I switched back to the butt chisel to flatten the rabbet going to the shoulder. I missed putting the chisel in the gauge line and lifted up a chip that was below it. I knew I should have highlighted it with a pencil and not rely on feeling the chisel fall into it.

done with the 140
I had to make the rabbet deeper than I had initially scribed it to get below the depth of the boo boo I made. I'll will see how well this works.

the mail came
I bought two squares for Miles toolbox. The combo square dates to the late 1890's and the metal square is a 6" Disston, age unknown.

nice looking combo square
Fancy scrolls on the head, an intact vial, and it has the scribe pin. Supposedly this is a carpenters square because it only has 16th's and 8ths on this side and 8ths and 32nds on the other.

still square after all these years
6" Disston needs helps
The outside of the Disston reads dead nuts with the 6" engineers square but it is slightly off on the inside down towards the toe. After a little file work and the inside will be dead nuts too.

got something for me too
I've been a good boy lately so I bought a carcass saw for me. An old Disston, 14" long, and 13 TPI that was recently sharpened by Isaac Blackburn.

something is wrong but I didn't see it here
Look at the top left of the spine. See the tapered line on the saw blade just beneath the spine? I didn't at first.

ignorance can be blissful at times
The feel and the sawing action of this is totally different from the LN carcass saw that I use for everything. After I sawed this piece of pine I noticed that the saw blade wasn't fully seated in the spine at the toe. Taking my cue from Paul Sellers. I rapped the spine on the workbench 4 times and seated the saw blade back down into the spine.

didn't get it all
The line is about an 1/8" wide here with about as much space left in the spine. I'll leave it as is for now.

I now have a canted saw
nice bennie because of the 140
The shoulder gives a positive registration for the chisel and it shouldn't move as I chop from this side.

Tails done and pins are marked
gap free interior
don't like this
The other 3 corners are seated and gap free and this one is toast.

a little more clean up
I got it close up a lot so I'm on the right track. This is where I shut out the lights and headed up stairs. I play some more with this tomorrow and glue it up then.

I also made a change in the box design. I nixed making this the same way I did my last one. Couldn't think of way of making the big dado in the sides.  Instead I'll glue a 1/2" bottom to it and leave the top open. Or maybe I'll think of a lid design that doesn't need hinges.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the state tree of Delaware?
answer - the American Holly

6 alternatives to the 140 trick......

Sat, 10/21/2017 - 1:17am
After I got home tonight I rushed into the house and grabbed my packages and headed for the Post Office to mail them out. In my haste I forgot the address for the backsaw. The molding planes had been addressed and ready to go all week. So I had to go back home and get the address and go back to the PO. This actually turned out to be good thing. The first time I went the parking lot was full and on the return trip there were no cars. In and out in a few and back home to try out my 140 alternatives.

I came up with 6 different ways to make the rabbet like I did with the LN 140 yesterday. I didn't do the 140 again, so I now have 7 total ways to make the rabbet for dovetails. I could have had 8 but I forgot to make one with the plow plane. If I remember I'll try and make one with it this weekend.

the first batter
I thought about this today and I decided to go with it as the first choice. I am a hand tool woodworker and I should be able to do this with hand tools. I thought of using a handsaw too but I didn't need it because the rabbet isn't that deep.  One marking gauge set the distance from the edge and the other was used to mark the depth.

depth marked
made a knife wall
removed waste going against the grain
I did this until I had evened out the rabbet from the knife wall to the edge.

within a frog hair of the gauge line
making it flat
First step is to lay the chisel in the gauge line and chop upwards from R to L.  Or L to R if you are left handed. Or you could melt down because you are in the midst of an OCD attack and can't decide.

go straight in to the shoulder

left side

middle
right side
came out pretty good
I have been using chisels more lately but I was surprised by how well I did on this. There is a faint bit of the depth line still visible. To the eye this looks even, flat, and square. I'm pretty sure that this would work but it but the real test is to do 3 more of these the same.

batting second
I ran a gauge line first and then made a knife wall.

second step was setting the iron
To the set the iron so that it projects past the side I lay it on the outboard side of the plane. Loosen the iron and it will project on the side that will be up against the shoulder. Tighten the iron and you're ready to plane.

run the plane in the knife line
The plan was to lay the plane in the knife wall titled at a 45° or more to inboard and plane. With each stroke I would bring the plane back up to 90°. That kind of worked and it didn't work.


looks a lot worse than it is
At a 45 on the first plane stroke, the iron rubbed on the top of the shoulder and blew it out a tiny bit.

cleaned up
Ratty looking but it will work.

third batter
Gauge line and knife wall were done first.

setting the iron is second
no planing in the knife wall first
I planed to the outside of the knife wall until I had a bit of depth and a shoulder. Once I had that I ran the plane up against the shoulder and completed the rabbet.

no blowout this time
The right side is off just a hair high. A couple of more passes fixed that.

fixed
batting cleanup
Same first steps as the previous two. Except setting the iron is done with the sole of the plane on the bench. I loosened the lever cap and set the iron projection by feeling it with my fingertip.

planed away from the knife wall until I had a shoulder established
got a bit of blowout on the exit side
I think I could have avoided this if I had planed a bit deeper first. In my past uses of the 10 1/2 I don't recall getting blowout like this. I also didn't make a knife wall but just starting planing the rabbet bare.

done
batting 5th
This plane has the advantage of a depth stop but I don't like using it. It is hard to set and have it hold unless you use pliers. Being a skew, it makes a clean cut on end grain.


setting the iron on the knife line
Setting this fence to a precise spot is a hit and mostly miss affair. I do it by slightly tightening one nut on one fence rod, then tapping the fence until it ends up where I want it. Here I want the top right corner to be just to the outside of the knife line.

deeper than the others
I removed the depth stop so I could better see the iron while I tried to set it up. I forgot to put it back on and before I knew it, I was this deep. This plane has a smooth action and it will remove a lot of wood in a hurry. This will work but I think this is too deep for the 140 trick.


batting last
I have used this before to make and clean up stopped rabbets. Here I'm going to use the fence and see if it will work making a '140 rabbet'.

working somewhat
There isn't a lot of plane real estate hanging out on the board. The router was tippy and I had to concentrate on keeping it flat on the board. The fence was another attention grabber. It is short and way to easy too cock in either direction. And it would cock way before I could get an 'aw shit' out of the pie hole. It worked but I ended up with a slightly bumpy rabbet.


the LN router rabbet
There is a slight hump in the board and that translated into the middle of the rabbet being higher than the two ends. The lead in on the right is also not as low as the rest of the rabbet.

the rankings
either of these could be swapped
I picked the LV #2 due mostly because it is skewed, has a fence, and a depth stop.


I like the long length of the 073 vs the bullnose
the next to last ones
I would have rated the chisel higher but demoted it because it isn't as easy to do as the others. Doing one is ok but a dovetail box requires 4 rabbets. It would take the longest of all the methods. I will try doing it on shop box just to see if I can do it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Andy Griffith graduated from UNC in 1949 with a degree in what?
answer - music

in and out real quick.......

Fri, 10/20/2017 - 12:51am
Made a decision to send the new (to me) back saw out to be sharpened. I could probably do it but I doubt I would be able to do with any competency worth more than a bucket of spit. I do think that I can the follow on and maintain the saw afterward.  I got the email sent and I am just waiting permission to ship it.

Making the box for it tonight is all I did. I gave up trying to find cardboard boxes a long time ago. Besides cardboard could be easily punctured and maybe in the wrong spot. I can only remembering sending out one saw in a cardboard box many, many lunar eclipses ago. It was a nightmare cutting and making new flaps because I had to cut down a larger box. Making a specific box out of wood is a no brainer to me.

french fit in foam insulation
I thought I would be clever and french fit the saw in this. I traced the outline of the saw and followed that up with a knife cut made with a sheet rock blade. This insulation was the packing in the box that my #6 came in from Timeless Tools & Treasures.  I would have used this insulation and that box but the box is on it's way to China by now and I was left with the insulation.

not cooperating
I can very easily make a downward cut with the chisel but one laterally is not working. This foam will saw quicker than a hot knife going through butter but balks at being chiseled. It doesn't like evacuation work with a chisel at all. I thought of heating the chisel and doing it that way but I wasn't sure of the fumes. I wouldn't want to wake up tomorrow with a third eye in the middle of my forehead.


saw packed up
 I used a scrap piece of pressure treated fence picket for the sides and 1/4" flooring plywood for the top and bottom. It's the same construction as the one I made for the panel rip saw.

almost ready to go
I have to get the ok for this, put the to and from addresses on a piece of paper in the inside, add few more screws, and I can ship it. The panel saw cost me $11.60 priority and if I had used priority boxes it would have cost $13 and change.  I don't expect this to cost much more than what the panel saw was.

Tomorrow I am going to try the 140 trick employing some of my other planes. I got a comment about making it with the Lee Valley skew rabbet plane which I don't doubt would work. I'll remove all doubt tomorrow on that and try a few other tools.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Which US President was taught to read and write by his wife?
answer - Andrew Johnson our 17th president

it worked.....

Thu, 10/19/2017 - 1:30am
I read Ken Hatch's blog post on the 140 trick but he didn't show the inside of the dovetails. Seeing that was what I wanted to see.  It was all I could think about at work today. When I got home I had to rush and make a sample dovetail joint. I got to see that it worked and then I went and did my errands. No since risking the wrath of the bride is there?


my toe stubs
If I had continued to file this I would have filed the toe and heel down to flat nothings. I would not know what the tooth spacing was and that is why I stopped here.

the heel
The toe and heel are pretty much in the same line with a big dip in the middle of the saw.

the middle of the saw
As you can see I have about 2 1/2 inches to go to get it flat end to end. I got a couple of comments yesterday that said to file the nubs to increase the gullets and then file the tooth line flat again. Repeat as necessary until the tooth line is flat and straight toe to heel. I'll try to do this on saturday or sunday.

setting the 140
When I do dovetails I shoot for getting them flush or just a frog hair or two proud. I set the right most corner of the iron on inside of the knife line.

I'm guessing this is maybe a 32nd deep
I'll try this first and see how it works. I still don't see a need for this to be much deeper, if any, than this.

cutting the tails
I had to try this doing the tails. It was so-so. The deeper I sawed, the more it balked but I was able to saw them all. I did the pins with my dovetail saw.

off square on this half pin
This isn't that important here and it was a different saw than I normally do dovetails with. I could correct this with a chisel but I left it as it is. Closing the interior of joint is what I'm shooting for.

tails done
I can see the step down I did with the 140 from side to side.

an added bennie
As a registration this works very well. The placement is solid and it is square in both directions - across and from end to end. This will be very beneficial when doing 1/2 blinds.


setting the pin depth
At first I thought I wouldn't be able to set the depth of the pin sockets. But by placing one face of the dovetails flush with the end, I had the depth of the pins which I marked with a pencil first. After I had sawn the pins I repeated this and used a marking knife instead of a pencil.

not too bad for hurrying
 This side doesn't look too bad considering but it is the interior that I am concerned about.

tumultuous joy and dancing in the streets abounded
I have found a new way to do dovetails such that the interior of them looks as well as the exterior. Both parts are closed up and gap free.

half pin is gappy
The tail and pin sockets are gap free.

planed them flush and glued it
the 140's nicker
I think this is useless. I tried to use on this but I didn't see the knife line. I made the knife line with a square and a marking knife. I could feel the knicker beneath the sole with my finger tip (it's retracted now) but I saw and sensed nothing trying to use it. Just as well as I have intention of using it.

glued and cooking
I labeled this and I'll put it with my other practice joinery. This will give me something to look back at and compare to what I'm doing now.

I didn't hesitate at all
I saw this on Jim Bode's tool site and I bought it immediately. I didn't think about pulling the trigger on it all.  I lost out on one plane because I thought about it and this is a plane I have wanted for a while.

finally got the pair
I got the #9 years ago and now I have it's sibling, the #60 1/2 ( in front).

nice fluffy shavings
the adjustable shoe works easily
sole is in decent shape
It has a few stains on it but no deep scratches, dings, or dents.

spin wheel
The wheel runs in and out squarely. These wheels bend and distort way to quickly when dropped on the bench or the deck. And also when someone cranks it down too far onto the iron.


iron looks good and has plenty of life left to it
back of the iron
It looks like the back was flattened. I'll check it again when I sharpen and the hone the iron my way.

precise adjuster
I got this replacement adjuster from an Australian site. There is something about it that is better then what LN has. There is zero backlash in it and it advances and retracts precisely. Derek Cohen put it out in one of his blogs and I'll check his site to find it again. I will check this on the new plane before I buy another one.

no room for it with it's mate
I will have to rearrange this end of the plane storage. I can make a shelf unit and possibly fit all the the block planes including the 102 & 103, the violin plane and maybe some other planes in it. Might be the next project out of the gate.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
This started in July of 1943. What was it?
answer - federal income being withheld from paychecks

one more day of rest......

Wed, 10/18/2017 - 1:07am
The hands felt a lot better today. No twinges and by mid morning I had no more aches. I am still going to take it easy for another day. The rehab of the #6 planes can wait a little while longer. I'm sure they aren't looking forward to what is upcoming. I have plenty of things I can do while I rest and heal.

wavy tooth line
I put the saw back in the vise and started to work on the problem areas I marked yesterday. Some of them I fixed and others will have to wait and catch up. Tonight I'm seeing a few spots where a couple of teeth are higher then their neighbors.

Mt Everest
How did I miss this wavy undulating tooth line last night. I thought I had done a pretty good job but tonight I can see it is mostly crappola.

whoa big doggie
I thought I would file the high teeth back down to match the others in the line and then sharpen it again. No wonder my tooth line looks like crap. A dog's hind leg is straighter than this saw. It had not occurred to me to check for this first. This roller coaster tooth line explains why my teeth are so uneven.

I like this one
This is what I used to joint the tooth line the first time. Not a good choice considering the dipsy doodles I have in this saw. As an side, if anyone knows of a source for short files like this please leave a comment.

Lee Valley file jointer.
This is long enough to bridge some of the hills and valleys. I should be able to even out the tooth line but it may take a while.

it' better but not complete
The file is evening out the tooth line but the problem is I won't have any teeth left at the toe and the heel by the time I get to the mid section. The teeth are almost gone at the toe and heel with just the bottom of the gullets left. I don't have the skills to file a complete set of new teeth from nothing. I will have to find someone who can punch me a new set of teeth. That is the only way I can see of fixing this.

makes rip cuts easily
I looked at this saw under the magnifying glass and I am still not 100% sure of how it is filed. From the side it looks like a rip.  Looking at it from the side it kind of looks like a crosscut but it doesn't have the angles a crosscut has. There is also very little discernible set.

a couple of shoulder cuts
I am going with a rip cut. It didn't like sawing these shallow crosscut shoulders at all. The rip cut was smooth and fluid and the crosscuts were hesitant and jerky. Now I have to decide if I want to try and file this myself or send it out.

I'm leaning in the direction of sending it out and having it filed properly. The tooth line on this saw isn't perfect either. It is almost straight and there aren't any missing teeth.  If a pro does it I'm sure I can follow on that and keep it in good shape.

never thought of doing this before
I ran all three of my tite marks over the 8K stone and it made a difference.

nice clean knife line - sharp cures another problem
trying out the 140 again
I knew I should have removed the side plate last night but I wanted to see how it felt and what she could do. Doing it the right way felt real good.

nice clean shoulder
I would think that I wouldn't need to make the rabbet any deeper than this for dovetails?

side plate
This didn't come off as easily as I thought it should. Maybe it needs to cycled off and on a bunch of times to loosen up a bit. It went back on without any problems but still stiff removing it for the second time.

no slant to outboard on this practice run
slanted across the width
Put too much pressure on the heel of the plane doing the start of the cut.

corrected - flat, straight, and even end to end
the action of the plane is very sweet
skew blocks for the LN honing guide
Deneb says that this iron has to be done free hand or with the jaws that fit the iron. These are the ones I bought to do the LN skew chisels. I'll have to check the LN website to see if I need to buy a set for this iron. If I remember right they offer a 30° and 18° set of honing guide blocks.

I like this saw
I can't saw this good with my LN tenon saw. I like the feel and action of this saw a lot. I think it may become my go to tenon saw. It has thicker plate, more weight, and for me it makes it easier to saw a truer cut.

found a box for the 140
lots of room
shucks
The shaft for the fence is too long to stow upright (the way I want it). The lid won't close with it this way. I would have started on making a new box for it tonight but I don't have any stock. I have 1/2" thick poplar but I prefer pine for my shop boxes. I'll have to make a run to Pepin Lumber and get some 1/2" pine. I hope that they still have some to sell.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Juan Sebastian Elcano?
answer - he was the first person to circumnavigate the world (He assumed command after Magellan was killed in the Philippines)

another day of rest.......

Tue, 10/17/2017 - 1:25am
My thumbs hurt all day long, especially my master right one. I'll admit I haven't been a good little boy with taking my blue pills so I'm paying the price. As I am typing this I am getting an occasional twinge of pain. Early today I was seriously thinking of going home but stayed. My fingers would have hurt the same at home as they did at work. So I'll be doing less intensive finger things in the shop and I will start taking my twice daily blue pills.

this is past due
Evaporarust usually has a greenish tint to it and this is jet black. This isn't any good so I'll dump it and I'll have to buy another jug of it. The only place I've found it in my area is at an auto parts store.

every shop needs a few different sizes of these
there's the yoke pin
I haven't lost any parts down the drain since I started using this. And it's nylon so no rust problems.

all blown dry
A blow dryer in the shop is another good thing to have.

a moment of weakness
I've  been reading about and getting comments on making a shallow rabbet for the tail board to close up gaps on dovetails. Ken Hatch recently wrote about Alan Peter's 140 trick using this block plane. I had passed on one of these a few months ago and I should have bought it. This was $225 new from LN and the one I passed on was $100.


Gaps on the inside of dovetails bug me for whatever reason. I think what is causing it is I'm moving my knife line ever so slightly as I chop. I have come close a few times with almost no gaps but I have yet to do any 100% gap free. I got this for the fixing the gaps more than for registration. I also got it because Deneb said it will make bread board ends.


it's a heavy one too (one kilo)
run a gauge line
I figured it out
I like these mini tite mark gauges a lot but I was having problems with the wheel cutters. They were disintegrating on me. First a few chips and then big chunks of it went MIA. I didn't know what was wrong or what was causing it. The problem was me and my ham fisted marking pressure. The cutters are fine and do what they are designed to do - make a clean precise knife line - without a lot of downward pressure exerted on them. I had stopped using them and switched to old wooden marking gauges.

The problem was me digging into the wood too hard with gauge. My attempt to make the line as deep as I could was too much for the gauge. I just happened to look at the cutter wheel as I was trying to make a deeper line and I saw the cutter wheel peel off like a shaving coming up through the mouth of a plane.So I think if I let up on the depth of the line, my cutter wheels should last. I forgot to add them to the LN order when I bought the 140 block plane.

I am not doing something right here
I had watched LN's You Tube video on this plane and Deneb said that it is a finicky plane to set up. I had it set too deep on my initial try. I would have bet a lung I was good on that but I wasn't. Once I got it set I did make fluffy and wispy shavings.

slanted
This is what happens with every new plane I use. I'll continue to practice and I'll get it.

I think I made a mistake in not removing the right side plate on the plane. That would allow the iron to get up tight into the bottom of the rabbet. The shoulder on this looks like crap and it should be crisp and clean.

better on the second run
The shoulder still looks like crap so I'm sure that the side plate should be removed . Removing the side plate will also give me access to the knicker. I'll try that out tomorrow.

new saw for Miles's toolbox
a carcass saw?
The top saw is my sash saw and the bottom one is my LN cross cut carcass saw. I think this Disston #4 saw will do ok as a carcass saw. I'll look it up and see what it's original use was.

ripped ok but the saw is dull
hard to crosscut
I really struggled making this crosscut in 3/4" pine. It bound and stuck seemingly on every other stroke. I finally made it through but it was a workout.

the teeth look like crap (Disston #4)
It is hard to tell if this is a rip or a crosscut. I felt very little set as I run my fingers down the tooth line. I put this one aside and filed a small rip saw that I'm giving to Miles.


small rip saw - jointing the the tops of the teeth
I am going to sharpen this small rip saw that I am going to put into Miles's toolbox. I jointed the tops of the teeth and this is about the middle of the saw. The tooth line wasn't even after 4-5 strokes down the saw with the jointer.

the toe
the heel
The heel looked the best tooth wise which I expected.


11 TPI
the toe after I sharpened them
time to test my work
This saw wouldn't saw 1/2" stock before I sharpened it and that is what this is.


not too bad
It is fairly straight and I had no problems sawing it. It was definitely a huge improvement over the sawing I tried before I sharpened it. The saw also has no set that I can feel. I'll be doing that for the first time tomorrow.

not bad for my second attempt at sharpening
missed a few
Only five teeth still have file jointing marks that I didn't file away when I sharpened. There was one area that had 4-5 misshaped and missing teeth that I think I made better and worse. Instead of 4-5 goofy teeth I now have 2.

sharpie marks the rework spots
From the heel going to the toe about 4 inches is the best looking real estate. I marked all the problem areas that need further help. Overall, I think I improved the tooth line compared to the original line of garbage I inherited. It will be a while before I master this and it will just take some time and a lot of practice.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a nonce?
answer - something that is made or used only once


it's football season.......

Mon, 10/16/2017 - 12:53am
I used to be a rabid football fan. I wouldn't miss a game even if I was having a heart attack. Now, I'm ambivalent about it. I follow the Patriots and today is the first game I am watching on TV.  Well I kind of watched it. I had been going back forth from the living room to the workshop inbetween plays. But by half time I was committed to sitting and watching.

Football doesn't hold sway over me like it used to which I am ok with. If push came to shove, I  would rather be in the shop anyways. I would have been in the shop today but my thumbs ached something fierce today. So I thought it best to give them a rest. If the game doesn't interest me I can search the WWW for an iron and a chipbreaker.

quiet time work
Just finished the sanding with 600 grit. I could have gone further with 800 and 1200 but 600 works for me. It imparts a decent shine and I can't see any scratches so I don't see the need to go further.

LED reflection off 600 grit
the sole
I know that the smoothness of the sole rather than shine, is a big help. A 600 grit smoothness helps the plane to glide rather than hesitate.

autosol shine
This stuff makes the planes shine but it also protects them too. And it lasts for a few months also. I'll be checking on this one to see how long it lasts because it'll be resident in a toolbox for quite a while.

autosol on the sole
I just do the cheeks and the sole.  I haven't tried the autosol on the lever cap yet but I may on the #6 rehab.

Miles's block planes
I knew the  60 1/2 is a bit smaller than the #9 and side by side it pops out. The iron in the #9 measures 1 9/16" wide the the 60 1/2 is 1 3/8" wide. 

about the same length
The #9 has a wider iron and a lot more mass. In spite of the extra mass the #9 weighs 1lb 60oz (.634 kilos) to the 60 1/2 weight of 1lb 3oz (.543 kilos) - a 3oz difference. I was expecting the weight of the #9 to be higher than this.

motors revving and ready to go
L and R shavings
I liked seeing this. Both shavings are the same width and thickness so I don't think the defect I have on the right of the iron matters. The plane didn't skip or stall making the shaving neither.

I'm stowing them in the big till for now - they won't fit in the top ones
the #6 will fit
The saws aren't going to stay in the toolbox. I will be making a separate till for them once I get them all. I have a crosscut and two rip saws so far. The smallest rip saw I have to sharpen but the other two are sharp. I bought a backsaw on thursday and I should have it monday or tuesday at the latest.  I thought of getting the 3 saw LV set (carcass, dovetail, and tenon) but I can't get past the composite construction, even if they are a damn good price. Instead I'll buy wooden handled saws one at a time. I have only to get two more and I have plenty of time to do it.

my 7/8 T&G planes

it's a match
my shrinking collection of T&G planes

I'm going through all my wooden planes and I'm passing on all my extras. I thought I had a few more beading planes but it looks like I already passed them on. Out of the 5 sets of T&G planes only two are usable and the other 3 need work on the irons.

these are my problem planes
One of the worse planes is the second from the bottom on the left. It is a dutch plane I bought for $15 and I can not get it to plane it's profile.

it is a complex molder
The sole of the plane is good, the throat isn't beat up and I don't think the plane got a lot of use. The iron matches the sole good but I haven't been successful making the profile. The best I've been able to do is to make a partial one.  None of these planes will get passed on.

this is a beading iron
from a plane that is an astragal
I've gotten a few molding planes with irons that don't even remotely match the sole profile. This one is on the list for making an iron to match it. Lie Nielsen sells blanks and I should be able to match one up for this.

3 molders I wanted
I think in order to get these 3 planes, I had to bid on a 3 lots of about 20 total planes. Most of them were garbage and only good enough to feed the furnace. Two of these are definite users and one is iffy. The sole is chewed up right behind the mouth but it did plane a profile as is. So maybe I will be able to sharpen the iron and be ok.

I'll come back to this one
The iron is rusty looking and thumping the ass wouldn't loosen the wedge.

these four just need to be sharpened
these are being passed on
All the planes I am passing on are users. I am not giving away crap. These 3 need the irons cleaned up and sharpened but all three planed their respective profiles. All the planes I am passing on planed their profiles. These here on the only ones I didn't sharpen and hone the irons. I boxed up the planes going to a new home and I'll ship them out this week.

the plane from 3 pics above
This is a thumbnail plane for 1/2" stock. I don't see very many planes for thin stock being offered up. This one came with a lot of 6 planes. This made the profile and half way decent shavings considering the iron is rusty looking.

the front of the iron
the back of the iron
I am continually amazed by these old molding planes planing a profile with irons like this in them. I have yet to buy one with a flattened back too. This iron is dull feeling and crappy looking yet it still planed a decent looking profile. I will clean this up and add it to the herd.

brass adjuster knob off the corrugated #6
This is the before grungy, dirty looking pic.

the backside looks even worse
I can reuse the barrel nuts
The slots are usually chewed up on the older planes but these are still clean, straight, and not mangled.

string on the finger
I brushed the parts to remove as much rust as I could and put all the parts in the Evaporust bath. The reminder is so I don't forget the frog pin is in the liquid. Losing that would be a tragedy.

which one is which
The inside of the two #6 planes are identical. The top one is mine and the bottom one is the corrugated sole one.

both soles are flat
I checked them both with my straight edge but the proof of the pudding will come when I put them on the 80 grit runway.
60 grit
Most of the japanning on the heel was gone and this was to remove the rust.  The plan is to sand the interior with 60 grit, clean it with some Simple Green, and then apply stripper.

the after pic of the adjuster knob
The way to go on this is to scrub it with a toothbrush and Bar Keeps. Much more effective than letting it soak in it. I cleaned it first with orange cleaner and I used 220 grit on the inside of the knob.

nice and shiny
There are a couple of grungy spots at the top of the hole that needs attention, but overall, the knob looks great.

my #6
Most of this plane still looks good. I did the rehab on this plane several years ago and it is something to see what I did then and what I do now. I will go nutso and complete what I didn't do then. The knob and tote, the frog and the plane body. Can we say together "oh what fun that will be". And it will be like the old double mint gum commercials because I'm doing two at the same time.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was the original title for the song, "Happy Birthday to You"?
answer - Good Morning to All

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