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This is my best shot at making you laugh and shake your head. I do both each time I dust my shop this way. At a minimum, it is unorthodox, at maximum it is absurd. How did this start? I was getting frustrated one day because countless dust nibs were interfering with my feeble attempts at finishing. In desperation, I opened the garage doors, fired up my blower and blew the whole garage out thoroughly. Then I let a fan run for a few minutes and, to my surprise, the dust was gone. I guess you can put this down as one advantage of garage workshops. In my defense, it does take two minutes.
The best way to deal with dust is to have a separate area for hand tool woodworking that is walled off from machines, sandpaper, and other sources of fine dust. For a variety of reasons that I won't bore you with, that isn't feasible in my case, so this is what I am left with. Rescue me from my perversion; tell me a better way.
I have wall shelves in my garage shop and my tools (and everything else on those shelves) get very dusty. I never thought a tool chest would be a good idea because you have to move so many things to get at the tool you need, which just happens to be at the bottom. Can you comment on your experiences with this?
My shop is not dusty. I intend to share a video here showing why. It may make you laugh and perhaps cringe but it works. Nevertheless, I would not store many of my best tools on shelves. We have had 54" of rain in the last six months, so rust is a concern. I think you need a mixture of storage types and there are a lot of items in a garage woodshop that do just fine on shelves, but most tools are not among them. To store mine, I am an enthusiastic advocate of tool chests.
Like Matt, I don't want to paw around looking for a tool. You can minimize this by making shallow tills, making custom holders for your tools that make them easy to access and using the inside of the top. I made three tills of different depths but, if I had it to do over again, I might make four. For many of us, tool chests can be quite deep to accommodate them. My opinion is that you can determine the maximum depth for your tool chest by measuring the distance between your armpit and your second knuckle on your forefinger.
Reality for many of us is different; woodworking happens either in the basement or in the garage. I am luckier than many in that I have a three-car garage, but it has to accommodate four hobbies-- gardening, tent camping, biking and woodworking--as well as the usual paraphernalia for home maintenance. (The cars stay in the driveway.) Woodworking gets the lion's share, but the space is just plain awkward. It's not big enough, there's not a lot of available wall space, it can be too cold and there is almost no natural light when the garage doors are closed. These are issues faced by many woodworkers and I hope this discussion will be useful.
Here's the garage from the street:
The two bays on the left are 20' deep and the one on the right is 24' deep. The overall width is 31'. The ceilings are 9 1/2' high.
My bench has been on the right side behind the single door since we moved here almost 4 years ago and I am keeping it there. One goal I have is to store everything I use regularly at the bench no more than a step or two from it. I've been short on accessible storage next to my bench, so the first thing I did this spring was build floor to ceiling shelves along the right side of it:
60 lineal feet of shelves was a big improvement, although I do have to use a ladder to reach the top shelf. An alternative favored by many is to install wall cabinets for tools, which would look nicer but not be more functional. My personal preference is shelves. They cost very little, are quick to build and have a lot more capacity. Extending them to the ceiling allowed me to secure them to the top plate.
On the left side of the bench, I have my tool chest and an antique butcher block that I will be using as a joinery bench. I raised it up to be 38" off the ground.
This let me put my main bench back down to palm height, 35" in my case.
The flooring is utility mats made from recycled tires that I got at a ranch store. As far as I am concerned, they are ideal because they create a vapor barrier, are easy on the feet and protect dropped tools.
Working at the bench in good weather is great because I can put the garage door up and have lots of natural light. Because the garage doors lack windows, the shop feels like a dungeon when they are closed, even though I have half a dozen LED fixtures. I had hoped to replace one section of the door with one that has windows, but neither the manufacturer nor the local distributor would consider it. The best they can offer is a brand new door with the top two of four sections containing windows, at a cost of $1,200. I am considering it but it aggravates me to replace a perfectly good door. Right now I am thinking about building my own replacement section using polycarbonate for windows. It looks like I could just unbolt the existing one and bolt on a replacement, using the existing steel supports around the perimeter and the same hinges. I think I could keep it light enough to operate properly.
I'd really like to have no power tools in this space, but the deeper bay, electrical connections and other issues don't allow it, so I put the three power tools that I would replace if they failed in the back: my bandsaw, drill press and power planer:
On the right, I have more shelves that are used primarily for hand power tools, paint and home maintenance supplies.
I am pretty satisfied with this section of the garage. Once I solve the natural light issue, the remaining challenge will be heat for the winter months. I'll post about that later.
I am sure the list will grow and change over time, but these are the ones I settled on:
- dovetail saw, crosscut backsaw, flush cut saw and fret saw
- #4 bench plane, router plane and fence, shoulder plane
- set of chisels
- small combination square
- hook rule
- eggbeater drill and bits
- marking gauge
- measuring tape
- double-sided diamond stone
- scrapers and burnisher
- mechanical pencils
I had a canvas tool roll and this works well for a spokeshave, chisels, a marking knife and gauge, a screwdriver etc. The mallet can be loose:
I put the smaller tools into the top tray:
A final verdict will have to await field trials but I think this project is a success. At minimal cost, I have a travel toolbox and bench that seems highly functional and versatile. The big issue is working height, because 12" on top of a picnic table is on the high end. If it's too high, I will try it on the seat instead. Another possibility is to use legs and anchor them to the table so they wouldn't tip and slide.
My hope is that others will come up with their versions of a portable workbench and toolbox too. The only other one that I am aware of is the Milkman's workbench that Chris Schwarz built. I don't like it at all, but it does have the advantage of solving the working height problem. You could make a separate toolbox instead of having a single unit like I made. If you got rid of the vises and just made a laminated top I think it could be quite nice.
Sometimes things I do in the shop turn out worse than expected for no reason I can discern and sometimes the opposite occurs. This time, it was the latter. The dovetails fit off the saw with almost no gaps. Part of this is because I took advantage of the fact that douglas-fir is compressible and intentionally made the fit a little tight. Here's the front of the box:
Here's the toolbox inside the bench:
So, now it's time to fill it.
Part of my goal is to build this portable bench and toolbox at minimal cost using mostly scrap material and things I have on hand. The challenge was to come up with a lightweight but useable vise without spending anything. This is something I already know how to do based on my experience years ago making Moxon vises using bar clamps. Here is one that I kept:
It has collected dust since I made one with acme threaded rods, but now that I look at it again I am thinking it is better. It's relatively light, fast as a result of being able to move the screw arm along the bar and nice to work on because the handles are in the back. I am not sure why I mounted the rear jaw on top of the base, but I have decided to change that and go back to using it to see if I like it better.
The cool thing about using this idea on a portable workbench is that you already have the rear jaw: the bench itself. I attached some tabs on the sides of the bench to hold light duty bar clamps at the right height:
I had a nice piece of 8/4 cvg douglas-fir (save for the pitch-pocket which I epoxied) to use for the front jaw:
I wasn't sure what finish to apply to a portable bench that will be spending part of its life outdoors, but I had some old tung oil on hand and decided to use it. It seems like it might be a good choice as it didn't make the top slippery, but I have never liked the way it looks on douglas-fir. I am going to use something else on the toolbox.
At this point, the bench is done. Now it's on to the toolbox.
You could dispense with the picnic table altogether and make some auxiliary legs that would detach for transport, or even use a saw bench, but, while they would be strong enough, they wouldn't have the mass that the picnic table does, which I found to be quite nice. That's something I may experiment with in the future though.
The first issue was what material to use. I wanted to use douglas-fir, but most of what you find around here is days from harvest and so green it literally drips. The big boxes sell kiln dried 2x material as "whitewood" so they can use different species. Usually it is hemlock, which is unsuitable for a workbench, but I checked and it happened to be douglas-fir that day. I sorted through the pile and found half a dozen studs that were sorta rift sawn and had clear sections. So, together with scraps left over from the kitchen remodel, I had my materials for a grand total of less than $18.
The first step was laminating the top. I settled on a length of 34 inches and the width of four 2x4s, which turned out to be 13 inches after jointing off the rounded edges. At this point I got a nice surprise. In the past I have flattened panels with a jack plane, but a while back I heavily cambered the blade of an extra #4 to make it a dedicated scrub plane. This was the first time I had used it and I couldn't believe how much easier it was.
I was able to flatten both sides in about twenty minutes and, after smoothing it out with old #7 I had a top that is a strong 1 3/8" thick:
Now I need a base that will also function as a case for the toolbox.
- Open floor plans are the thing these days and for good reason. Taking out the wall between the kitchen and the dining room to create one large space made a dramatic and welcome change to our house. In fact, it is even better than we had hoped it would be;
- Trying to complete a major kitchen remodel in a month is unrealistic. If you aren't removing walls, changing electricity and/or plumbing or getting custom counters, you might be able to get it done in a month. In our case, the lead time for counters and backsplashes alone was three weeks after the cabinets were installed;
- The european cabinet design is outstanding and the way to go, in my opinion, unless you really prefer face frames. It's versatile and much faster to build or assemble;
- Ikea cabinets are a good choice, although I recommend the semi-custom option in which you make the doors and drawer fronts yourself. If you choose to use Ikea doors and drawers like I did, be aware that the doors on a diagonal or next to filler pieces did not fit to my satisfaction. The only hesitation I have is that the boxes are melamine, although they are very sturdy and well-constructed. The hardware is excellent;
- If you want to build your own cabinets instead and like the european style, I recommend the deluxe jig from Lee Valley and the hardware specifically designed for european cabinets that is widely available;
- Don't even think about remodeling a kitchen without a laser level;
- You can save a large sum of money by doing a kitchen remodel yourself, even if you have to hire a plumber and electrician, but it is a major time commitment. When all is said and done, I estimate it will have taken me 200 hours.
I have been thinking along these lines for some time, but the speaker really develops and justifies the idea very well. Perhaps I am one of only a few who doesn't improve as much as I should or could for the reasons he talks about, but I doubt it. Generally speaking, when I go into my shop I want to make something and I want it to be the best work I am capable of. I am in the performance zone. As the speaker explains, that isn't the best way to learn. For that you need to move into the learning zone, where the goal isn't to make something but to learn something, to develop your skills and capability. The end result is not a thing, it's a skill. That's hard for me. When I am asked over dinner what I did in the shop today, I don't really want to say, "I really accomplished a lot by practicing sawing more closely to a line. I don't have anything to show for it because I threw away all the pieces I used." Who wants to read a blog post about that?
I am going to try to motivate myself to spend 20% of my shop time during which I specifically commit to throwing away whatever I produce because I am trying to develop a skill and want to focus solely on that. I don't know if I can do this but I think it is essential if I am to improve much more. I have gotten to the point where I have enough skill that I can make pretty nice pieces that will be used and admired, but I am not getting much better for the clear reason that I am spending most of my time in the performance zone. I tend to fall back on the techniques I know I can execute well. After all, who wants to try something unfamiliar or that you know you aren't really proficient at on a workpiece made from expensive wood which you have already spent hours on? I admit that I do this.
I think most of us know intuitively that what this guy is saying is right. The challenge is to be disciplined enough to act on it. The sad thing is that when I actually do it, it is very satisfying.
I'd be interested to know if I am the only one that suffers from this failing.
The purchase process is based on a CAD program that Ikea uses and makes available to its customers, which then feeds the ordering process. However, I chose to draw my design on graph paper and then go to the store, where one of the kitchen specialists helped me to input it. She was tremendous, tweaking my design in helpful ways and making sure all of the right components were in my order. Very impressive and real value added.
A few days later, a delivery truck showed up at our house with 110 flat packs and packages! It took us about a week to take down the wall, demolish the kitchen and remove ceramic floor tile in the hall. The following two weeks were spent assembling the cabinet boxes, coordinating plumbing and electrical contractors, installing the range vent to the outside, and installing the wall cabinets and microwave. At that point, we were able to get the first round of four inspections out of the way.
I was surprised at how easily the boxes went together and how strong they are. Steel pins are screwed into pre-drilled holes in corner of one side and then cam locks go over them from the other side. Surprisingly the boxes all came out square with no effort.
Ikea has an ingenious and highly effective way of installing wall cabinets. You attach a steel rail to the wall and then hook a steel attachment on the back of the cabinets over the rail. When they are positioned where you want them, there is a fastener that locks them in place.
As we were beginning to install the wall cabinets, my wife made a very important contribution. I told her how difficult it was going to be to get the cabinets level around three sides of the room and, against my judgment, she convinced me to buy a laser level. For $120 I got a self-leveling laser that sits on a tripod and projects a sharp line on three walls at once! You just set it up in the middle of the room and turn it on, then move the tripod up and down until it's at the height you want. OMG! It made it so ridiculously easy to install the steel rails level I couldn't believe it. After that the boxes went up fast. The result is strong and secure. One person can install the cabinets without difficulty.
The next step is to install the doors, again a simple process. You just secure the hinges in a hole in the door, screw a plate into the predrilled holes in the side of the cabinet and snap the hinge onto it. Put on the handle and you're done. The hinges have three adjustments on them that make positioning the door easy.
We were just congratulating ourselves on how well we were doing when boom! Big problem. I held up the drawer for the diagonal corner cabinet and--it didn't fit. There was a gap of almost an inch along the side of the door and, since the doors are gray and the boxes are white, it looked just awful.
A call to the support specialist at Ikea wasn't reassuring. After taking me through a list of things I might have done wrong, she asked for pictures, which I sent her:
She called me back with the bad news that in some installations, including their own model kitchen, this gap does in fact exist. She was previously unaware of this and found out that they had used some specialty gray edge banding to mask the problem in their display kitchen. They don't provide it and don't even sell it, but did refer me to an online supplier where I could purchase it. Perhaps my expectations are unreasonable, but I was not pleased.
Again my wife came to the rescue. At her suggestion, we took one of our doors to the Home Depot paint department and asked if they could match the color. The guy said he could and put an electronic device attached to the paint computer onto the door. It generated the pigment formula to add to the base and, amazingly, it came out exactly correct, a dead ringer. We went home, sanded, primed and painted the offending cabinet edge and now it looks much better:
In my opinion, this is a better solution than the one Ikea suggested and we are satisfied. However, it was this experience that tipped me over the edge into wishing I had made my own fronts from the get go, rather than buying Ikea's. Obviously, I would have made the door wider rather than relying on a standard width. The actually remodeling wouldn't have taken any longer because I could have made the doors and drawer fronts in advance.
We're not finished with the base cabinets yet and I am hoping there are no further instances of problems like this, particularly ones we can't fix so readily. I do think our experience is a cautionary tale.
The bottom cabinets are attached to the walls the same way. In the case of a peninsula, you have to attach them to the floor because you can't use the rail. The lower cabinets come with adjustable feet that make leveling them easy. The toe kicks attach to the legs with clips.
I looked at ready to install cabinets but was put off by the low quality and bland nature of what I saw, and the prices weren't great either. Many are stapled together particleboard but some are higher quality. A second category is ready to assemble cabinets, basically pre-cut and often easily assembled with specialized fastening systems. European style cabinets in particular yield themselves to this approach because of the standard dimensions and use of holes spaced 32 mm apart for everything from box assembly to hinges and drawer slides. You build a series of standard boxes and then put them together before adding shelves, drawers and carousels of your choosing. There was a good article about several options in Fine Homebuilding that made this option appealing to me. Finally, I discovered that architects are using a "semi-custom" approach in which standard ready to assemble boxes, drawers, etc. are combined with custom drawer fronts and doors to yield a custom look at reasonable cost. There are other variants of semi-custom cabinets, but this is the one that was attractive to me.
I have previously written about being influenced by a speech about design by John Economaki of Bridge City Tools here in Portland. At one point, he said we should go to Ikea to study furniture design and, when he was met with guffaws, brought us all up short, saying that Ikea offers world-class design executed cheaply. I did just that and found that he is absolutely right. Not surprisingly, then, I decided to go to Ikea and look at their kitchen designs. They had about a dozen model kitchens on display and many of them were extremely appealing to us. The melamine boxes and painted fronts are particle board but they also have several styles of fronts in solid wood. They use Blum hardware and the online reviews were very positive. I don't like particleboard, but I decided to hold my nose and go with it.
One of the things that attracted me to this option as a hand tool woodworker is that you can buy everything from Ikea except the doors and drawer fronts and then make your own. I almost went this way but instead decided to buy painted fronts we particularly like for now, with the thought that I will replace them with ones I make myself from white oak in a craftsman style. This is a great option, in my opinion, basically what architects are doing except making the fronts yourself. I think this is the right way to go and, if I knew then what I know now, this is what I would have done. You can't begin to buy the jigs, material, finishes and hardware to make your own boxes for the prices Ikea charges and you have the freedom to add very high quality woodworking to them where it matters most. They have so many choices of styles and configurations that little is lost. The only downside I see is that your boxes are melamine, a significant disadvantage but one I decided I can live with.
I read online that woodworkers who do this typically buy one inexpensive door and drawer from Ikea in each of the sizes in their design to use as a template for making their own. That way you can have everything made before you begin demolition of your existing kitchen and be back in business quickly. I wish I had done this.
In the next post, I'll tell you about my experience building the Ikea cabinets, which, among other things, will help you understand why I think the semi-custom option is best.
This is a woodworking blog and much of this is not of interest here, but I do think that there are aspects of it that are worth discussing.
My first instinct was that I would do everything myself, including making the cabinets from scratch, but that idea went out the window pretty fast for these reasons:
- We don't want to be without a kitchen for more than a month or so and it would take me a very long time;
- I haven't made or installed kitchen cabinets before and I don't have space to prefabricate a kitchen. I told my wife that I felt the second set of cabinets I made would be quite good but I wasn't too sure about the first set and that it would take me a long time;
- We decided we wanted european style cabinets and making them requires specialized equipment, at minimum the deluxe version of this;
- Here in Oregon, you are absolutely forced to have rough and final plumbing, mechanical, electrical and structural permits and inspections (at a cost of $700 in my case). Eight inspections for a kitchen remodel seems a little over the top to me, but it is what it is. Electrical and plumbing methods and codes have become so complex and arcane (examples: because I was moving the range a little, the entire circuit had to be brought up to code, necessitating replacing the three wire circuit with a four wire circuit all the way to the service panel) that I didn't feel it was worth the trouble to figure out what was required and how to do it myself;
- There is no way I could replace a 4'x6' window by myself.
I did a lot of research before making my cabinet choice and that is what I am going to post about next time.