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This "aggregator" collects all of the woodworking blogs I read every day - or try to anyway!  Enjoy!

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Oriental Hand Tools

chiisai-fukurou:I finished my toolbox \(^-^)/I think it turned...

Giant Cypress - 8 hours 2 min ago


















chiisai-fukurou:

I finished my toolbox \(^-^)/

I think it turned out nicely :3 

It sure did.

Horrible lighting while doing a demonstration at the Woodworking...

Giant Cypress - Thu, 03/05/2015 - 3:38am


Horrible lighting while doing a demonstration at the Woodworking Show a couple of weekends ago in Somerset, NJ.

Kumiko Lamp - Popular Woodworking Magazine

Giant Cypress - Wed, 03/04/2015 - 3:48am
Kumiko Lamp - Popular Woodworking Magazine:

This is a terrific article by my good friend Raney Nelson on building a Japanese style lamp in this month’s issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine. Grab a copy. The whole issue is well worth reading.

Hey, longtime reader here: I'm about to start buying Japanese tools on Ebay, and I'd like to know, how do I go about this safely? I've never used Ebay before.

Giant Cypress - Tue, 03/03/2015 - 3:18am

Thanks for reading all this time. I really appreciate it.

Most of the Japanese tools I have I’ve bought from eBay. I think the same rules apply to buying Japanese tools as they do for buying vintage western tools.

  • Look for listings with lots of good quality photos, and if there isn’t a photo of a particular part of the tool, assume that the seller is hiding something.
  • Spend some time just looking at listings so you can get a feel for what price Japanese tools are selling at. I have an eBay search that looks for the term “Japanese” in the Collectibles → Tools, Hardware, and Locks category, which is quite useful.
  • Try to buy from sellers that have a good eBay reputation. 
  • And finally, take your time. Despite the number of listings for Japanese tools that are labelled as “rare”, things do come up again.

Upcoming talk on Japanese planes

Giant Cypress - Mon, 03/02/2015 - 3:28am

image

I’m very excited to have the opportunity to give a talk on Japanese planes to the North Jersey Woodworkers Association at 7 pm on Monday, March 16 at the at the Allwood Community Church, 100 Chelsea Road, in Clifton, NJ. The NJWA is a great bunch of woodworkers, and if you live in the northern part of New Jersey and don’t belong to a woodworking club, you should join these guys.

These talks seem like they are becoming a habit. I’m good with that. Hope to see you there.

HB Tansu #3-Progress 1

Greg Merritt - By My Own Hands - Sun, 03/01/2015 - 3:56pm

So the boy has decided that the tansu has some utility and has requested that I build one for him.  So I agreed.  Since he will be moving out in a few short years I thought an ultra-portable option would be a good idea.  So I sat down with my sketch book and scribbled a few options.  I finally settled on a design that has the same height as the first two that I built but only half the width.  I like the height that I have been using.  Basically its side table height and works well beside a chair or bed.  The width reduction will give this tansu a square footprint and will easily fit just about anywhere.  The decreased width will make sliding doors impractical.  So I came up with an asymmetrical drawer layout for this build.

hb_tansu-002

I made a trip to the local Home Depot yesterday and purchased enough pine material to build the basic carcass.  As per my usual, I’ll be using birch ply for the panels and will be ordering this from an online source.  I have yet to decide on the drawer front material.  I may play with species selection to accentuate the asymmetrical drawer layout.

The first order of business today was to create a full-scale shop drawing.  I can’t emphasize enough how important I feel this to be.  The drawing makes the layout and checking of parts so much easier.

hbt3-1

With the drawing done I turned my attention to processing the lumber for the frame.  Pulling lengths of members directly from the drawing.  Once all of the framing members were cut it was time to plane them all to a uniform width and thickness.  These parts are square in cross section and I use a purpose built planing jig to ensure that they are identical.  I place each piece into the jig and plane until the plane bottoms out on the jig and no more shavings can be produced.  I also continually rotate each piece so that each face is planed.  This step is well worth the effort.  The uniformity makes the layout and subsequent fitting of the joinery much easier.

hbt3-2

When building these tansu I start with the vertical corner posts.  Using one as a master, I transferred the joinery locations directly from the shop drawing to the work piece.

hbt3-3

I then clamped the remaining three posts to the master post and transferred the joinery locations.  This ensures that all of the joinery lines up across the work pieces.  If your new here I should tell you that I use a particular set of joints for building these tansu which you can review by following this link.  Anyway, I also created a dedicated marking gauge for the marking of this joinery.  So I then used that gauge to mark out the joinery and then used my sumi pot and sumisashi to mark all of the waste.

hbt3-4

With the joinery layout completed on the posts I then plowed all of the required grooves in those pieces.

hbt3-5

hbt3-6

I still had enough shop time to chop and cut the joinery in one post.  I’ll not cut the end tenons until after chopping the mortises in the cross rails.

hbt3-7

Like normal, work and weather will dictate how much, if any, shop time I get this week.  Worst case will be that I’ll have to wait until next weekend to further my progress on this HB Tansu.

Greg Merritt

 

 


HB Tansu #3-Progress 1

Greg Merritt - By My Own Hands - Sun, 03/01/2015 - 3:56pm

So the boy has decided that the tansu has some utility and has requested that I build one for him.  So I agreed.  Since he will be moving out in a few short years I thought an ultra-portable option would be a good idea.  So I sat down with my sketch book and scribbled a few options.  I finally settled on a design that has the same height as the first two that I built but only half the width.  I like the height that I have been using.  Basically its side table height and works well beside a chair or bed.  The width reduction will give this tansu a square footprint and will easily fit just about anywhere.  The decreased width will make sliding doors impractical.  So I came up with an asymmetrical drawer layout for this build.

hb_tansu-002

I made a trip to the local Home Depot yesterday and purchased enough pine material to build the basic carcass.  As per my usual, I’ll be using birch ply for the panels and will be ordering this from an online source.  I have yet to decide on the drawer front material.  I may play with species selection to accentuate the asymmetrical drawer layout.

The first order of business today was to create a full-scale shop drawing.  I can’t emphasize enough how important I feel this to be.  The drawing makes the layout and checking of parts so much easier.

hbt3-1

With the drawing done I turned my attention to processing the lumber for the frame.  Pulling lengths of members directly from the drawing.  Once all of the framing members were cut it was time to plane them all to a uniform width and thickness.  These parts are square in cross section and I use a purpose built planing jig to ensure that they are identical.  I place each piece into the jig and plane until the plane bottoms out on the jig and no more shavings can be produced.  I also continually rotate each piece so that each face is planed.  This step is well worth the effort.  The uniformity makes the layout and subsequent fitting of the joinery much easier.

hbt3-2

When building these tansu I start with the vertical corner posts.  Using one as a master, I transferred the joinery locations directly from the shop drawing to the work piece.

hbt3-3

I then clamped the remaining three posts to the master post and transferred the joinery locations.  This ensures that all of the joinery lines up across the work pieces.  If your new here I should tell you that I use a particular set of joints for building these tansu which you can review by following this link.  Anyway, I also created a dedicated marking gauge for the marking of this joinery.  So I then used that gauge to mark out the joinery and then used my sumi pot and sumisashi to mark all of the waste.

hbt3-4

With the joinery layout completed on the posts I then plowed all of the required grooves in those pieces.

hbt3-5

hbt3-6

I still had enough shop time to chop and cut the joinery in one post.  I’ll not cut the end tenons until after chopping the mortises in the cross rails.

hbt3-7

Like normal, work and weather will dictate how much, if any, shop time I get this week.  Worst case will be that I’ll have to wait until next weekend to further my progress on this HB Tansu.

Greg Merritt

 

 


Cleaning Day and Tool Storage

Greg Merritt - By My Own Hands - Sat, 02/28/2015 - 6:48pm

Today was all about cleaning the shop.  I’m pretty good at always wiping down my tools and putting them away.  Sweeping up the shavings…not so much.  The shavings were close to knee deep, so something had to be done before starting a new project.

The day started off slow though.  It was cold in the shop!  I’m pretty sure I heard my little space heater swearing at me as I headed back to the house and waited for the shop to warm up.  A couple of hours sweeping, sorting offcuts and two large trash bags later the shop was back in order and ready for the next project.

IMG_1377

A while back Bill had requested an overview of my tool storage.  I had almost forgot about it and thought today would be a good day to tackle that oversight.

My tool storage solutions are quite simple.  Racks, drawers, shelves and pegs.  The bulk of my tools are stored on two tool racks.  One rack hold the main inventory of my wood working arsenal.  The second rack holds the odds and ends that come into play now and then.  Screwdrivers, pliers and such.

The main rack has two shelves, one at the top and the other at the bottom.  I store  my bench planes here.  The rack also has horizontal slats that are spaced out.  I store tools here by simply sliding them into the created gap behind the slats.  The remainder of the tools are hung on pegs.  Everything is within easy reach and I can reconfigure the tools easily if the need arrises.  Fasteners and other small items are kept on/in a small wall hung cabinet.  Saws hang on pegs from the front of the bench and the from the wall.

I also installed a couple of drawers at the end of my bench as well as a shelf.  The shelf holds my sharpening equipment.  The drawers hold files, scrapers, rasps and drill bits.

I’ve read several articles about open tool storage, dust and rust.  But, after three years I can report that I have not had any issues.  I frequently wipe my tools with an oil soaked rag and hand tools create a minimum of dust.  Anyway, this system works for me and my small shop.  Easy access to everything.

IMG_1382 IMG_1380 IMG_1378 IMG_1379

Greg Merritt

 


Cleaning Day and Tool Storage

Greg Merritt - By My Own Hands - Sat, 02/28/2015 - 6:48pm

Today was all about cleaning the shop.  I’m pretty good at always wiping down my tools and putting them away.  Sweeping up the shavings…not so much.  The shavings were close to knee deep, so something had to be done before starting a new project.

The day started off slow though.  It was cold in the shop!  I’m pretty sure I heard my little space heater swearing at me as I headed back to the house and waited for the shop to warm up.  A couple of hours sweeping, sorting offcuts and two large trash bags later the shop was back in order and ready for the next project.

IMG_1377

A while back Bill had requested an overview of my tool storage.  I had almost forgot about it and thought today would be a good day to tackle that oversight.

My tool storage solutions are quite simple.  Racks, drawers, shelves and pegs.  The bulk of my tools are stored on two tool racks.  One rack hold the main inventory of my wood working arsenal.  The second rack holds the odds and ends that come into play now and then.  Screwdrivers, pliers and such.

The main rack has two shelves, one at the top and the other at the bottom.  I store  my bench planes here.  The rack also has horizontal slats that are spaced out.  I store tools here by simply sliding them into the created gap behind the slats.  The remainder of the tools are hung on pegs.  Everything is within easy reach and I can reconfigure the tools easily if the need arrises.  Fasteners and other small items are kept on/in a small wall hung cabinet.  Saws hang on pegs from the front of the bench and the from the wall.

I also installed a couple of drawers at the end of my bench as well as a shelf.  The shelf holds my sharpening equipment.  The drawers hold files, scrapers, rasps and drill bits.

I’ve read several articles about open tool storage, dust and rust.  But, after three years I can report that I have not had any issues.  I frequently wipe my tools with an oil soaked rag and hand tools create a minimum of dust.  Anyway, this system works for me and my small shop.  Easy access to everything.

IMG_1382 IMG_1380 IMG_1378 IMG_1379

Greg Merritt

 


Spock: science officer, first officer and subsequently commander...

Giant Cypress - Sat, 02/28/2015 - 3:58am


Spock: science officer, first officer and subsequently commander of the Enterprise, Federation ambassador, and builder of giant pole lathes.

LLAP.

Dear Giant Cypress, I've been a long-time fan of your blog. Do you know anywhere I can find reviews for Japanese tools? I've been saving up my money for a while now, and I can finally afford the 240mm Koshino Shoku ryoba from Japan Woodworker; I just...

Giant Cypress - Fri, 02/27/2015 - 3:08am

Thanks for reading, and for the nice comments. I really appreciate it.

There aren’t many Japanese tool reviews out there, probably because there aren’t many new Japanese tools coming onto the market, which is when tools are most likely to be reviewed. Also, there aren’t going to be many Fine Woodworking-style Japanese tool shootouts anytime soon. I think this is a good thing, as I think the utility of head-to-head comparisons is minimal.

My usual advice for buying Japanese tools is to contact the various Japanese tool sellers and talk to them about the type of tool you’re interested in and your budget. They all will give you useful information, but one of them is going to resonate with you more than the others. Buy your tools from that seller to start. You may not get the most bargain price for the tool you’re interested in, but you’ll be developing a relationship with a tool seller, which is going to be more valuable in the long run. This has worked very well for me.

As far as the 240mm Koshino Shoku ryoba goes, you may want to consider getting a 210mm ryoba, depending on what you want to do with the saw. If you really want a 240mm ryoba, but don’t want to deal with sharpening just yet, look into getting a Gyokucho #611 or #651 ryoba. Those models have replaceable blades, so you don’t have to worry about sharpening. I’ve used both of those saws, and they are very good in North American hardwoods.

This is a little late for Chinese New Year, but this is a...

Giant Cypress - Thu, 02/26/2015 - 3:08am


This is a little late for Chinese New Year, but this is a terrific video from the Wall Street Journal about the Chinese New Year’s tradition of da shu hua (打樹花), which involves flinging hot molten iron against a wall in the blacksmithing town of Nuanquan. This tradition is over 500 years old, and the effect is astounding.

I think my favorite part is when the blacksmith Wang De (王德), who is 52 years old, says, “I think I can do it for another 20 years because I think I’m in pretty good health.”

At that point, he’ll be in his seventies, and still throwing around molten steel heated to 1600ºF, while wearing protective clothing made out of sheepskin for protection. That’s awesome.

(Thanks to Tools For Working Wood for the link.)

Hello Wilbur. I sharpen all of my edge tools (western and Japanese) full bevel without a grinder. I am slow at this but don't mind the time as the result is very good using a progression of 1000-5000-15000 grit Shapton stones. Many of the forum threads...

Giant Cypress - Wed, 02/25/2015 - 4:28am

Hello Bruce. Thanks for reading. I really appreciate it.

Many woodworkers who use Japanese tools whom I’ve spoken with over the years often adopt this sort of workflow: when starting, they take time to sharpen the tools that they will be using for the day. After that, they go to work.

This may seem like overattention to sharpening, or maybe not being mindful of time, but I think what gets missed is that for the most part, once the sharpening is done, they seem to be good for at least the majority of the day. There’s something to be said for getting the sharpening out of the way so that you can spend the rest of the day woodworking, rather than interrupting your progress on your project to sharpen up a tool.

I should caveat the above by noting that it’s most likely an overreach to characterize all woodworkers who use Japanese tools as following one method for their workflow. It would be like saying that all woodworkers who use western tools do the same thing as well.

Having a childhood flashback right now.

Giant Cypress - Tue, 02/24/2015 - 3:38am


Having a childhood flashback right now.

A New Theory on How Neanderthal DNA Spread in Asia

Giant Cypress - Mon, 02/23/2015 - 3:08am
A New Theory on How Neanderthal DNA Spread in Asia:

Carl Zimmer:

Researchers also have found a peculiar pattern in non-Africans: People in China, Japan and other East Asian countries have about 20 percent more Neanderthal DNA than do Europeans. 

I’m 20 percent more Neanderthal! That explains my interest in hand tools. 

Chinese Gate Bench-Progress 6

Greg Merritt - By My Own Hands - Sun, 02/22/2015 - 6:52pm

I picked up today where I left off yesterday by profiling the remaining three legs.  I followed this by adding an edge detail to the long edges of the seat board.  Again I pressed my single moulding plane into service.  Then using my #4 to round over the remaining bits.  A little sanding here and there and I was ready for the final assembly.  This bench must be assembled in a particular way.  I described this procedure in an earlier post and had a request for a video to clarify my description.  Making a video is not something I’ve done very much.  Nor do I understand the ins and outs, but I took a stab at it.  At the very least, it does show the sequence.

With the assembly together all that remained was to wedge each joint and peg the end stiffeners in place.  Once the wedges were installed I needed to trim them flush.  This was a simple affair on the seat but the legs took a little more effort.  On the legs the short rail tenons intersect with the profiling.  To trim the tenons flush required the use of a gouge.  I trimmed the bulk out-of-the-way with the gouge and followed with the moulding plane.  With that the assembly of the Chinese Gate bench was complete.

I spent several minutes inspecting the bench and touching up any blemishes that I found.  Then I applied the first of what will be several coats of BLO.

cgbench-19

cgbench-20

I’ll spend this week applying a coat of Tried & True oil every day.  Next weekend will see this project completed.  I’ll take a few dog & pony photos and then call it done.

Greg Merritt


Chinese Gate Bench-Progress 6

Greg Merritt - By My Own Hands - Sun, 02/22/2015 - 6:52pm

I picked up today where I left off yesterday by profiling the remaining three legs.  I followed this by adding an edge detail to the long edges of the seat board.  Again I pressed my single moulding plane into service.  Then using my #4 to round over the remaining bits.  A little sanding here and there and I was ready for the final assembly.  This bench must be assembled in a particular way.  I described this procedure in an earlier post and had a request for a video to clarify my description.  Making a video is not something I’ve done very much.  Nor do I understand the ins and outs, but I took a stab at it.  At the very least, it does show the sequence.

With the assembly together all that remained was to wedge each joint and peg the end stiffeners in place.  Once the wedges were installed I needed to trim them flush.  This was a simple affair on the seat but the legs took a little more effort.  On the legs the short rail tenons intersect with the profiling.  To trim the tenons flush required the use of a gouge.  I trimmed the bulk out-of-the-way with the gouge and followed with the moulding plane.  With that the assembly of the Chinese Gate bench was complete.

I spent several minutes inspecting the bench and touching up any blemishes that I found.  Then I applied the first of what will be several coats of BLO.

cgbench-19

cgbench-20

I’ll spend this week applying a coat of Tried & True oil every day.  Next weekend will see this project completed.  I’ll take a few dog & pony photos and then call it done.

Greg Merritt


Chinese Gate Bench-Progress 5

Greg Merritt - By My Own Hands - Sat, 02/21/2015 - 4:37pm

Woke up to about 8″ of heavy wet snow this morning.  This mess continued all day and is still coming down as I write this.  Trying to get to work Monday is gonna be fun.  Anyway, back to our regularly scheduled program.

The plan for today was to continue shaping parts.  But first I had to disassemble the dry fit from last time.  This went a little easier than I had anticipated but still took about half an hour of slowly knocking each joints apart.  Once I had the bench broken down to its basic elements I turned my attention to the long rails.  The first order of business was to create a template to ensure uniformity.  I used a scrap piece of cheap plywood to make my pattern from.  A little divider gymnastics and I had the layout completed.  Using a coping saw I cut the rough shape.  I followed this with 4-in-hand rasp and finally knocked off the sharp edges with sandpaper.  Using my newly minted pattern, I marked out each of the long rails.

cgbench-15

I then used my bow saw to cut the rough shape.  Then I clamped the two rails together in the vise and used the rasp to refine the shape to the line.  Some further cleanup with a file and sandpaper and I was ready to add the heavy bevel to the edges.

cgbench-16

To create the edge bevel I marked guidelines with a pencil using my finger as a gauge.  Most of the bevel I was able to cut with a spokeshave save the inside curve portions.  For this area I simply used a chisel bevel down and pared to the guidelines.  A little sanding and the long rails were done.

cgbench-17

I must have been moving pretty slow today because that is about all I was able to get done.  I did manage to profile one leg and fabricate the small blocks that stiffen the end of the long rails.  The leg profile is subtle but adds a bit of dimension to the piece.  I used the same moulding plane for this as I used for shaping the short rails.  Of course it’s the only moulding plane I own, so the choice was easy.

cgbench-18

Tomorrow I’ll finish profiling the other three legs and add some edge details to the seat.  Then it will be time for final assembly.

Greg Merritt


Chinese Gate Bench-Progress 5

Greg Merritt - By My Own Hands - Sat, 02/21/2015 - 4:37pm

Woke up to about 8″ of heavy wet snow this morning.  This mess continued all day and is still coming down as I write this.  Trying to get to work Monday is gonna be fun.  Anyway, back to our regularly scheduled program.

The plan for today was to continue shaping parts.  But first I had to disassemble the dry fit from last time.  This went a little easier than I had anticipated but still took about half an hour of slowly knocking each joints apart.  Once I had the bench broken down to its basic elements I turned my attention to the long rails.  The first order of business was to create a template to ensure uniformity.  I used a scrap piece of cheap plywood to make my pattern from.  A little divider gymnastics and I had the layout completed.  Using a coping saw I cut the rough shape.  I followed this with 4-in-hand rasp and finally knocked off the sharp edges with sandpaper.  Using my newly minted pattern, I marked out each of the long rails.

cgbench-15

I then used my bow saw to cut the rough shape.  Then I clamped the two rails together in the vise and used the rasp to refine the shape to the line.  Some further cleanup with a file and sandpaper and I was ready to add the heavy bevel to the edges.

cgbench-16

To create the edge bevel I marked guidelines with a pencil using my finger as a gauge.  Most of the bevel I was able to cut with a spokeshave save the inside curve portions.  For this area I simply used a chisel bevel down and pared to the guidelines.  A little sanding and the long rails were done.

cgbench-17

I must have been moving pretty slow today because that is about all I was able to get done.  I did manage to profile one leg and fabricate the small blocks that stiffen the end of the long rails.  The leg profile is subtle but adds a bit of dimension to the piece.  I used the same moulding plane for this as I used for shaping the short rails.  Of course it’s the only moulding plane I own, so the choice was easy.

cgbench-18

Tomorrow I’ll finish profiling the other three legs and add some edge details to the seat.  Then it will be time for final assembly.

Greg Merritt


Marking in the Waste

Greg Merritt - By My Own Hands - Thu, 02/19/2015 - 4:17pm

I’ve been working with wood for a lot of years.  Most of those years consisted of fits and starts with no real skill building taking place.  There were several reasons, but past is past.  This all changed a few years ago when several things came together for me.  I built a small shed in which to work, Paul Sellers started Masterclasses and I could afford to purchase some hand tools.  Once I could put serious focus on woodworking I knew that, beyond developing the basic skills, joinery was of primary importance.

As I began to build projects with more and more joinery one thing became obvious.  I needed a way to keep track of what went where.  A good deal of woodworking articles and videos make mention of using a lower case cursive “f” for marking the face side of a board in conjunction with a “v” to indicate the face edge.  Most woodworkers are also aware of using an indexing triangle to keep pieces oriented for assembly.  Laying out of joinery is pretty well covered too.  What is rarely discussed is how to mark the waste. An “X” or a quick scribble or, more often than not, no mark at all.  If you are cutting your joinery shortly after marking it out than this may not be that big of a deal.  If, like me, hours or days may pass between the marking out and the cutting than problems start to crop up.  I was spending a good bit of time reorienting myself with what was what.  Another issue was that I would occasionally cut on the wrong side of the line.

If you’ve visited here before you know that I have a deep-seated, obsessive has a negative connotation, interest in Japanese and Chinese woodworking.  There are a multitude of reasons but their use of joinery is what keeps me hooked.  As a result of this interest I purchased a video by Jay van Arsdale titled “Japanese Hand Tools & Techniques“.  In that video he touches on how Japanese carpenters mark in the waste to communicate what is to be removed.  They use these methods because the master carpenter is the one doing the layout.  However, he is rarely the one who actually cuts the joinery.  So a system was developed to readily and clearly communicate where and how the joinery was to be cut.  This method seemed like it would be worth a try.

sumi_pot-19After sketching ideas on paper I devised a basic system that I could put to the test in the shop.  The first trials were using a pencil to create the tick marks.  This worked but were simply not bold enough to give the visual contrast needed.  I then tried a Sharpie marker.  This worked fairly well.  I also ordered and tried a brush tip pen.  This worked great.  The tick marks took on a tapered form.  Fat at the beginning and thinner at the end.  They looked like, well, brush strokes pointing to the center area of the waste.  In the video, van Arsdale used the traditional sumisashi and ink pot to create the marks.  I like this method too.  So much that I made my own ink(sumi) pot.  It’s more work to get the equipment ready but is fun to use.

Since I began using this marking system confusion and errors have dropped dramatically.  I can still produce some bone-head moments but they are coming with far less frequency. By taking the time to mark the waste my focus on what I’m doing increases and I, by default, recheck my layouts.  I’ve discovered caught potential errors this way.  I’m also able to pick up a piece and quickly understand what joinery needs to be executed.  No matter the how long the delay between the marking out and the cutting.

Below is an example of a project piece with the joinery marked using my system.  Note the visual contrast between the pencil lines and the ink.

cgbench-3a

Here is a quick reference drawing that I put together to help illustrate the system I use.

marking_waste

I don’t expect anyone to adopt my system.  If you do however, let me know how it works out for you.  What I do want is for you to consider at least how you currently keep track of your joinery layouts.  Maybe you could benefit from creating your own system as well.  I can attest that using a system to mark my joinery waste has benefited me greatly in my own work.  Something for you to ponder on at least.

Instructional Drawing PDF:Marking Joinery Waste

Greg Merritt


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