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Amanda Kolson Hurley, on a 12 story wooden building being built in Portland, OR:
Although we’ve been building with trees since prehistoric times, they are having a moment, architecturally. Wooden structures similar to those in Portland have recently been built in Sweden, Finland, and the U.K., and a 24-story wooden building is under way in Vienna. […]
Buildings are by some estimates responsible for a third of global greenhouse-gas emissions. Much of a building’s carbon footprint results from its lifetime energy use, but another big part derives from its construction. The manufacture of concrete and steel accounts for an estimated 10 percent of greenhouse-gas emissions. Trees, however, are “carbon sinks”—they absorb and hold carbon until they decompose or are burned. According to a study in the Journal of Sustainable Forestry, substituting wood for other materials used in buildings and bridges could prevent 14 to 31 percent of global carbon emissions.
And the music was good and the music was loud.
Malcom Young gives an eight minute clinic on rhythm guitar.
"Some people express their deep appreciation in different ways. But one of the ways that I believe..."
Although this primarily refers to Apple’s products, it could easily be about woodworking. At the very least, it dovetails nicely with his “When you’re a carpenter making a beautiful chest of drawers” quote.
I’m behind on my podcast listening, but I’d like to thank Shannon Rogers for giving a shout out to my new video on Japanese tools on the Wood Talk podcast a couple of weeks ago.
This has become a bit of a tradition here at giant Cypress.
This is one of the best Veteran’s Day songs, ever, even if it was written for Australia’s version of today.
God bless our vets, all of them.
I have a replaceable-blade Ryoba and in rip cuts it seems to go very very slow, doubly so if I try to "just let the blade do the work". It also tends to skip when I try to start a rip cut in a hard pine. During cuts the teeth feel like they are...
I think that making rip cuts, especially long rip cuts, is more difficult than the other types of cuts you would do with a Japanese saw. I’ve found that a key issue is how you set up the board for the cut, and the angle that the saw makes with the board.
The grabby feeling you get does happen, especially if you’re using hard pine. (Insert joke about hardwoods and softwoods here.) The difference between the early and late growth rings will make that wood inherently grabby. What you should find, however, is that there is a particular angle that the blade makes with the wood that will give you a smooth feeling in the cut.
For starting the cut, I’ll often start by facing the end of the board, and making a short cut to get the kerf started. Then I’ll turn the board around, and make the rest of the cut by pulling the saw down the length of the board.
Finally, if you think that your cut is going too slow, the most likely thing is that your saw is too small for the type of cut you’re trying to make. Which is not a bad thing, because that gives you an excuse to buy a new tool.
I stumbled across some Japanese knives, did a bit of an ‘ip dip’ and chucked one in the basket. It turned a boring order of glue and screws into bloody Christmas. Blimey Charley, the knife was perfect.
Here’s yours truly fielding some questions on Japanese woodworking — specifically, using Japanese saws with western saws, taking care of Japanese tools, where to start with Japanese tools, and sharpening. This was filmed while making my videos on Japanese tools for Popular Woodworking, as a sort of behind-the-scenes featurette.
As a side note, I’m happy to answer questions on woodworking, Japanese or otherwise, or any other subject, for that matter. You can contact me via the “Ask” link at the top of the page, and my other contact info is at the bottom of the page.
What are the very very wide kanna called and used for? You posted a photo of a 13" one back when you were at NYKEZ. Most kanna I've seen for sale (complete or as just a blade) tend to top out at around 70mm, rarely going to 80mm.
The very wide kanna are called okanna (sometimes ookanna). The “standard” kanna size is a 70mm blade. The ones I use for bench work range from 60-70mm. Okanna can be 120-150mm wide.
I’ve only seen an okanna used for demonstrations, and haven’t heard of anyone using them for routine work. There are a couple of reasons why you might not want to do that. I’ve pulled ookannas before, and it’s noticeably harder to pull, which isn’t a surprise given that you’re planing close to twice the width of a regular shaving. Twice the width means twice the work.
Also, the blade is going to be harder to sharpen given its size. Maintaining the dai is going to be more difficult for the same reason. And then you have to make sure that the blade and dai match up well.
That’s not to say that there isn’t someone out there using an ookanna in their shop on a regular basis. It’s just that I haven’t heard of that happening.
Closing ceremonies at #kezUSA. Hope to come back again some day.
Super thin shavings. #kezUSA
A post shared by Wilbur Pan (@wilburpan) on Oct 22, 2017 at 3:59pm PDT
Even more planing contest action. #kezUSA
A post shared by Wilbur Pan (@wilburpan) on Oct 22, 2017 at 3:46pm PDT
More planing competition action. #kezUSA
A post shared by Wilbur Pan (@wilburpan) on Oct 22, 2017 at 3:35pm PDT
Start of the planing contest at #kezUSA
Japanese plane set up demonstration by Hiroshi Sakaguchi at #kezUSA
A model of joinery used in a Chinese temple at #kezUSA
Jay Van Arsdale reviewing shoji and kumiko construction techniques at #kezUSA
Matt Connorton speaking on applying traditional woodworking skills to modern day Woodworking at #kezUSA
Andrew Hunter teaching about Chinese furniture construction techniques at #kezUSA
Dai Ona on engineering aspects of joinery in the Asian and western traditions at #kezUSA