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My blood pressure remained normal and I didn't change into a raging nut job which my wife was very proud of. All this did really was put me behind the eight ball with getting tomorrow's blog post ready. One thing I did do before I started writing this was to make a password reset recovery USB. I thought I had done that but I don't remember it and if I did, I don't know where I stuck the USB stick.
|my new camera|
|my very first pic with the new camera|
|I forgot to snap this pic last night|
|set up board to get the outside wall of the groove|
|knifed the in and outside of the groove to prevent chipout|
|worked good in this pine|
|knifed my two groove lines|
|this is prone to chipout and blowouts|
|first groove to depth|
|groove number 2|
|the last one, #4|
The action of this Lee Valley plow plane is very sweet. It was a joy to use on this and a huge step up over the Record 405 (English version of the Stanley 45). Less bulk and weight and a lot more nimble and easier to push. Well worth putting on your xmas list to buy in august.
|ran two gauge lines|
|tongue laid out|
|splitting out the rabbet|
|got one split out|
|lucky again with #2|
|this end isn't splitting off cleanly|
|too fat but I knew that|
|this should have been on the side of the tongue|
|squared up the cheek|
|cleaning up and squaring the tongue with the router plane|
|one corner caught, the rest is too fat|
|fits but the tongue needs some trimming|
|making a tongue marker|
|marked and ready to saw off|
|inside joint line|
|the oops side|
How many official perfect games have been throw in Major League Baseball?
answer - out of over 210,000 games only 23
The rabbit hutch project is finally looking like a rabbit hutch. I got a lot done in the last post, but now I need to make the two poop drawers that will sit beneath the wire mesh floors.
You can see the earlier posts in this series here:
- The Rabbit Hutch – Part 1 (Front frames and doors)
- The Rabbit Hutch – Part 2 (Sidewalls)
- The Rabbit Hutch – Part 3 (Carcase assembly)
- The Rabbit Hutch – Part 4 (Floor frames)
- The Rabbit Hutch – Part 5 (General Assembly)
In the last post, I painted the hutch, installed the floor frames, fitted and installed the back panels, installed the doors, and made a piece to fill the gap at the top of the front. Wow, that’s a lot for one post. Time to make the poop drawers. Again, I’m skipping photos of me milling wood.
I found that there was a slight inward bow in the long sides of the draw frame. I cut a piece of scrap to temporarily keep these pushed out straight while I nailed the bottom on.
For the bottom I decided to use a ¼ plywood that is faced one side with paper. I think that it is designed to be used as an underlayment for tile. To attach the bottom, I used Titebond III and nails.
With the bottom drawer made, I gave the outside a couple of coats of paint. Not the inside, that’s getting different treatment.
So that the drawer doesn’t slide directly on its plywood bottom, I added an oak runner or wear strip to the bottom edges.
The bottom drawer was fairly simple. The upper drawer is a little more complicated as it needs to have a notch cut out of the back to account for the ramp that links the upper and lower levels of the hutch.
I’ll skip all the photos of the dovetailing this time as it is exactly the same as the first drawer. In the bellow (after) photo, you can see the joints all finished. This one took a little longer because of the notch. As you can see, it has eight dovetail joints instead of four.
I did the same flush-cut and round-over with the trim router before painting.
My next-door neighbor had some left over countertop laminate that he gave me. This will make a great waterproof liner for the drawers.
After the glue had cured, I trimmed the edges flush with the laminate trim router and a block plane.
I bought these drawer pulls at a clearance sale at the Lee Valley store when I took a trip to Kelowna, BC last year. I knew they would come in handy at some point.
Well, that’s the drawers done. Now this thing needs a roof. More on that in the next post.
– Jonathan White
Your are going to be disappointed to learn this post is about furniture making and not woodworking. They aren’t always the same activity. I haven’t come up with a new subtractive furniture making technique using flame.
What the title refers to is furniture I have found that looks like wood but is actually metal. First I found some chairs in Alpharetta, GA. a few years back:
Next, I found this kitchen rack at a local antiques multi-dealer shop:
Tuesday, I found two more pieces over in Raleigh:
And finally, this desk:
You can tell it’s metal by looking at a drawer side:
I have a lot of interests, only some of them related to woodworking, so my reading plans for the summer are somewhat diverse. But let’s start with woodworking.
First on my list is David Esterly’s The Lost Carving: A Journey to the Heart of Making. Having read this one previously, I know it to be a lyrical exploration of the craft of fine carving to replace a Grinling Gibbons carving burned in a Hampton Court fire. I am relishing the chance to revisit this favorite of mine. I also plan to read Aldren Watson’s classic Hand Tools, as much for his finely-executed drawings as for the many ideas contained therein. I recently bought the Stanley Tools Catalogue No. 34 from Lost Art Press and plan to spend some time perusing Stanley’s classic offerings. Finally, I have a copy of Joshua Vogel’s The Artful Wooden Spoon that is another fine example of the craft of making things of utility and beauty.
I’ve developed a passion for black & white photography and have set a goal for myself to master fine art B&W printing. I have a stack of books on this subject, the principal of which are Harold Davis’s Monochromatic HDR Photography, Michael Freeman’s The Complete Guide to Black & White Digital Photography, and George DeWolfe’s B&W Printing. There are others in my library, but I’ll commence with these.
I’ve also set myself on a course to better understand the roots of creativity and the creative life. I’m starting with Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi’s classic Creativity, a study of notably creative people and the factors that characterize their lives. I’ll follow this with historian Daniel Boorstin’s The Creators, which recounts the lives of historically important creators. I’ve already begun Michael J. Gelb’s How to Think Like Leonardo da Vinci, though because it is replete with exercises that will take me time to work through, I have no expectation of completing it this summer.
As if this weren’t fun enough, I’ll listen to audio books while working in the woodshop—my usual practice. Here my tastes run the gamut from Greek and Roman philosophy to military history and the latest Michael Connelly mystery. It should be an informative and entertaining summer of reading.
Norm Reid is a woodworker, writer, and woodworking instructor living in the Blue Ridge Mountains with his wife, a woodshop full of power and hand tools and four cats who think they are cabinetmaker’s assistants. He is the author of the forthcoming book Choosing and Using Handplanes. He can be contacted at email@example.com.
The post My 2017 Summer Woodworking Reading List – J. Norman Reid appeared first on Woodworking Blog.
I have several days, even weeks maybe, to work on oak furniture now. Some carving yesterday & this morning. here’s a quick photo tour of cutting one lozenge/diamond shape, with tulips in it.
After laying out a diamond shape on horizontal & vertical centerlines, I strike an inner diamond with a small gouge, approximately a #7 sweep. Maybe it’s a 1/4″ wide. Just connect the dots, hitting the vertical & horizontal centerlines with the corners of the gouge.
Then I use the same gouge to “echo” this making an outline around it, these do not connect.
A more deeply curved gouge now comes off these outlines, beginning to form the undersides of the flowers.
Then the same gouge reverses, making an “S”-curve going out to the border. Or just about out to the border…
When you repeat this step on all four quadrants, your negative shape becomes quite prominent – it reminds me of those Goldfish snacks small children eat –
Now a larger gouge, approximately a #8 – reverses again, forming the tops of the lower flower petals.
Then a #7 about 3/4″ wide does more connect-the-dots – reaching from where I left off to the borders. that’s the whole outline. This one is quite small, the piece of wood is 6″ wide, and there’s a 3/4″ margin on both edges. You can use the same pattern on a panel, then some of this outline is cut with a v-tool instead of struck with the gouges.
Then I cut out the background. In this case, it was tight quarters in there, so I used a couple different tools, depending on where I had to get..
The end result. about 15 minutes of carving for the lozenge/diamond. This is going to be one of three muntins for the footboard of a bedstead I’m making.
Here’s the top rail I started back at the Lie-Nielsen Open House…they always show up better once they’re oiled.
Yesterday I started painting a desk box I have underway; but found out I was out of red pigment (iron oxide) – ordered some, and did the black for starters.
The step I failed in was answering my phone to get the access code to authenticate me. I have an admission to make - I don't know how to answer my phone. You have drag one colored phone receiver icon over to another one. I always pick the wrong one and if I pick the right one, I go in the wrong direction. Whatever happened to just picking a phone up and just saying hello? Where and when did that go south on the nutso express?
Anyways, I am doing ok with texting and I seem to get that right. I should have picked getting my authentication code by text but that is a moot point now. My window of opportunity to talk to a representative to unlock my account was a bit on the narrow side and the times to do so were based on EST. As soon as I got home I got their number and called.
I placed the call at 1550 and I got done talking with the rep at 1620. I almost failed getting my account unlocked again. My SSN and DOB I know but my last transaction with the account was when? When did I open the account with them? This is where I was put on hold for a long time. While I was waiting I found my IRA folder and saw that I had opened this account in 2008. I told him it was 2010 or 2011. I did get the last contribution amount correct and that was what got me unfrozen.
The rep was good enough to stay on the line and set up my recurring contribution. That was a big help because I am not good with this kind of crap. I usually employ my wife to help with it. I'm glad I got it done, got my account unlocked and my contribution set up, and I don't have to deal with this again. But it did eat up a ton of my shop time.
|was on sunday's to do list|
|split glued up yesterday|
|two edge repairs|
|my big tapered dutchman|
|the face came out good and without gaps|
|I have enough time to do some layout|
|all by hand|
|the horizontal board gets a groove and the vertical one gets the tongue|
|look see to the future|
|my longest Hake brush|
|off center divider|
|this shelf won't be so straight forward|
|this will be the center divider|
|this will be the shelf|
|where has this been all my life?|
So far the cabinet carcass is made up from boards left over from the old kitchen cabinets. I was hoping to be able to make the entire finishing cabinet from that stock but it won't be happening sports fans. I'll get some pine from Pepin's Lumber for the door.
|today's temp sans the humidity|
|still tacky according to my wife|
Who was the first black quarterback inducted into the NFL Hall of Fame?
answer - Warren Moon who was also not drafted out of college
I call this piece the “everyday table” because you see this design everyday. I spotted this one at Home Goods just last week. It’s kind of a cross between a table and a bookcase. As far as construction goes, it’s very simple. Six framed legs with a top, a couple of shelves and a cross “X” on each side. In fact, there’s a website that shows how to build this table, pocket screws and all.
Say what you want about the design and construction, but they are very popular and super easy to build. My wife found the website the other week and asked me to customize one to fit in our dining room as a coffee bar.
Being true to form, I built ours out of southern yellow pine (2 x 10’s). I wasn’t a fan of the thick 2 x 4 legs so I milled all the parts down to 1″ thick.
Keeping it simple, I used pocket screws and glue to attach all the pieces. The shelves are southern yellow pine boards I ripped and glued back together to create a quarter sawn panel so they wouldn’t expand and contract too much.
The hardest part about building the piece are the X’s on the sides, but all that entails is cutting a couple of half lap joints.
Here is the finished bar with a vinegar steel wool solution and gel stain on top to give the wood some depth. The coffee bar has turned more into a display table for my wife’s Rae Dunn collection, but that is another story for another day.
I have since played around with the design again and built another one using eastern white pine. Construction is similar except I used floating tenons instead of pocket screws to build the frames. I’ll still use the vinegar and steel wool solution again on this one and stain it a dark color. My third design will probably have a thicker top and I may use plywood for the shelves. Stay tuned.
I’m in the final week of a project that in some respects highlights my idiosyncratic nature, and truth be told I sorta revel in not fitting in. (I’ll be blogging at length about this project starting in a week or so, and it will take several dozen postings to get it all.)
My first sense of not fitting in with woodworking came on November 9, 1980, when I attended a weekend workshop in Atlanta taught by Ian Kirby. I remember it so precisely because it was in a classroom at Georgia Tech, and that was the day that Tech tied the #1 football team (Notre Dame) in the country and the campus went wild. The subject of the workshop was ostensibly mortise-and-tenon joinery, but I seem to recall him spending an inordinate amount of time extolling the virtues of a new power tool, the biscuit joiner. Of course I bought one, and of course it has remained unused for the past 46.99 of the intervening 47 years. I’m soon sending it off to my friend Pete who can put it to good use.
As is often the case at weekend workshops, regardless of the setting or instructor, there is the opening ritual of the attendees introducing themselves to each other. At this particular weekend the attendees were a mixture of doctors, lawyers, accountants and such. When I introduced myself as a finisher by trade and that I loved finishing, I could almost sense the rest of the students recoiling as though I was some alien creature whose spaceship was parked out on the lawn. Despite that, and despite the fact that I was the youngest participant by two or three decades, at every break and every meal I was peppered with questions about the mysterious and un-knowable world of finishing.
I’ve heard that surveys of the populace reveal that the single greatest fear is the terror induced by the prospect of public speaking (I have no such trepidation, probably because I do not care if the audience agrees with me or not). During that student introduction I was left with a distinct impression that has become cemented over the decades that some/many/most/virtually all woodworkers are as terrified of finishing as they are of public speaking.
Which brings me to my current project, as this week I am rubbing out and detailing the finish I have been so lovingly applying for the past 40 or so hours of shop time. Not only has every moment of the surface prep and application been something to savor, the bringing of the piece to exquisiteness through the finishing process is simply an embarrassment of riches to me. Sure, I found it amusing to make the piece from scratch using almost exclusively early-19th Century technologies as specified by the client, including resawing the lumber, cutting all the lumber and joinery by hand, carving all the moldings, hand sawing and assembling the veneerwork. But to me they were simply the appetizer.
Finishing is the feast, and the whole point of the making. Which I guess makes me a polisher luxuriating in my own peculiarity.
Many pieces of English Arts and Crafts furniture, especially those of the Cotswolds school, feature a cheerful detail known as decorative gouging. It’s a simple technique and amenable to endless variations depending on the combination of gouges used, the spacing and depth of elements, and so on. Here’s an introduction based on the legs for a hayrake table. Decorative gouging gains as much of its effect from its context as […]
The post Decorative Gouging: A Traditional English Arts & Crafts Technique appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.
Back in June I found this modified plantation desk at an antiques shop in Winston Salem, NC:
It had been modified to change the angle of the writing surface:
This piece was covered in Less Than Fancy Furniture.
We were in Hermann, MO over the weekend for a wedding. We arrived Friday night and the wedding wasn’t until 3:00 PM on Saturday leaving some time for research. Our plane left at 7:15 PM on Sunday leaving more time for research. I am a very diligent researcher. In a shop in Warrenton, I came across this desk:
This desk has also been modified to change the lid angle:
Looking inside leads me to believe that they might have replaced the front legs as well.
This desk is has a gallery rail and locking storage box affixed to the top:
The tag gives one possible history of this desk:
I am now looking for a third one and I won’t stop until I find it.
And not even then.
For most married men, an age-old question seems to be: ‘What should I get my wife for her birthday?’ Considering that my wife is already the girl who has everything (let’s face it, she hit the proverbial jackpot when she married me!), I usually struggle every year to find a gift clever enough to convince my wife that I actually put some thought into her gift. So this year I went a completely different route, and I’m glad I did.
My wife enjoys to read, though we have drastically different tastes when it comes to reading material ( I wouldn’t be caught dead reading some of the stuff she reads, but oh well). Rather than just purchasing a book for her, I wanted to make the gift of a book more of an experience, and that is why I decided to try the Mysterious Package Co., which specializes in some really out of the ordinary stuff. Without giving away too much information for those who may be receiving a gift, from the MPC in the future-the surprise is a huge part of the experience-you choose a package from the company web page, and the recipient receives a series of mailings featuring packing hay, old newspaper clippings, creepy introduction letters, haunted diaries, beat-up shipping crates, and demon-possessed statues (it all depends on which story line you go with). In any event, the box that contained my wife’s gift was pretty intriguing, and my wife nearly destroyed the lid in her zeal to pry it open. I really loved the vintage Indiana Jones , Ark of the Covenant like appearance (the crate the Ark was stored in, I mean), and since she’s received it I’ve built several different versions of it.
As you can see in the photos, the box is of simple construction, so it can easily be made with hand and/or power tools. I used only hand tools because my daughter wanted to participate, and she was responsible for the stencil print, which put her personal touch on the project. And for good measure I used pallet wood from my company warehouse (I refer to this wood as Danish Pine). The pallet wood had me a little concerned, because it’s pretty common to find old nails and stones embedded in the boards. Thankfully, I have several hand planes from my restored “collection” which were given to me, so I wasn’t overly concerned in using them. That being said, I hardly treat these tools like second class citizens, because I spent a great deal of time and effort restoring them. I am just saying that I am not the type of person who would use his $300 LN jack plane on a sketchy piece of pallet wood- in factI should have taken some photos of the unfinished wood, because it was pretty rough.
On that note, I just so happened to set free a fair amount of hand tools over the past month. It was much more quick and painless than I thought it would be, yet I still have a whole cabinet filled with hand planes.
Anyway, the box sizes were determined by the wood I had available, of which I had a decent sized stash. I sawed the boards to rough length and width, used a smooth plane to square the edges, and used a block plane to shoot the ends. I smooth planed a great deal of the roughness from both faces of the wood, though I truly did attempt to leave a few small rough patches to complete the vintage look we were trying to achieve, but considering the boards are all from pallets and were fairly warped/bowed to begin with, simply flattening them enough to be usable removed much of the roughness regardless. I probably could have left the faces of the box rough sawn, but because we were adding stenciling, and I wanted to apply a protective finish, I decided that a smoother surface would work much betters. To finish off the appearance I glued on some battens to the box sides, which my daughter chamfered with a block plane. Dimensionally the box is approximately 11 in x 5 in x 4 in deep, the wood thickness around ½ inch (I say around because it varies).
The lid for the box featured in the photos was also constructed with pallet wood, which I believe is a hardwood (I’m guessing oak, but that is just a guess). I butt jointed two pretty nasty boards together and left them dry overnight. After they were dry I sawed them to length and then used a scrub plane for the initial flattening, as those boards were by far in the roughest shape of the lot. I then smooth planed the panel, once again attempting to leave the box somewhat “unfinished”. Lastly I used shoulder plane and sanding block to create rabbets so the lid would recess into the box, which really helped to lighten the overall appearance.
The joinery for the boxes is mainly butt joints and cut nails. The only place where I got a little fancy was the for bottom of the first box I made, where I used ship lap joints, and the only reason I did that was because I want to save as many of the wider boards as possible for future boxes, so I pieced it together with smaller cut-offs. Any box with stenciling will receive coat a of shellac and/or some paste wax, more for protection than to enhance the appearance. If you ever plan on adding some type of ink stenciling to a box (we used heavy duty magic markers), I would suggest waiting at least a few days for the ink to dry and really seep into the wood. In fact, I would wait up to a week. Thankfully, I attempted a practice run on a scrap board, and the ink smudged somewhat when I applied BLO, so I knew for future reference to wait at least a few days before applying any type of finish.
This was a fun and relatively easy project, though using all hand tools made it somewhat time consuming (mainly flattening the boards to make them usable). I completed two boxes so far and repaired the original, which as I mentioned was damaged when it was opened. I currently have enough pallet wood left to make at least two more boxes, and I have in inexhaustible supply constantly coming into my company warehouse. And I think making boxes from several different pallets could make them a bit more interesting.
Yet, not sure if it would be better to purchase pre-surfaced boards and add my own touches to change the appearance (beads, chamfers, different widths etc.) Because while I did enjoy all of the hand plane work, I don’t want to spend the entire summer flattening pallet wood for hours on end, in particular because the hot and humid weather is now in full swing. Still, I’ve already prepped more boards which are generally ready to go, so I can pretty much guarantee that I’ll have a few more of these boxes finished in the next few weeks.
One thing I learned from my father was how to paint. And especially so how to clean brushes which was my job when I started painting with him. Not bragging, but I am a damn good painter. I could cut in a multi pane window sash with a straw broom if I had too. I thought I had done everything the way I should have on this - primer coat followed by two top coats. Or in my case, 2 primer coats and 4 top coats and it still isn't 100% dry. I can't give this to my wife as it is because I am afraid that the books will stick the paint job. This has to feel dry to touch before moving on.
|no joy in Mudville|
|got them out of the cellar|
The exterior of the bookcase feels totally different. It is dry without feeling clammy anywhere, even the bottom of the bookcase. I can feel the texture of the wood so I know that I can coat this with poly. It isn't necessary but with a couple coats of poly it will be easier to dust and keep clean.
|the before pic|
|after 5+ minutes in the soup|
|cleaned the knurling with a toothbrush|
|the red grudge is gone now|
|Duh, brass on brass won't leave scratches|
|Bar Keeps powder|
|a whole lot of better looking and shiny too|
|working on the frog|
|a couple of minutes later|
|port side done|
|the starboard side|
|face is done|
|getting my finishing cabinet width|
After cutting out the stock for the sides and the top/bottom, I noticed that I didn't have any stock left to make a door with. I have what I need for the shell but I'll have to buy stock for the door and for the drawer(s).
|the cabinet shell|
|they are off|
|corner is blown out|
|also has some shakes and splits|
|I'll dutch something in because I don't have stock to make another side|
|sawed a tapered rabbet|
|cleaned up both faces with the rabbet plane|
|two more hiccups to fix|
|ran gauge lines top and bottom|
|chiseled out the waste between the stop cuts|
|another split on the other end being fixed|
|made some 1/4" dowels|
Maybe tomorrow I can get the carcass together.
Who was Francis Gabreski?
answer - American's #1 Ace in the european theater during WWII with 28 kills
The rabbit hutch project is finally taking shape. I usually don’t paint or finish a project until the very end, but this one really calls for painting along the way. Painting many of the inside parts would be difficult later, but easy if done now.
- The Rabbit Hutch – Part 1 (Front frames and doors)
- The Rabbit Hutch – Part 2 (Sidewalls)
- The Rabbit Hutch – Part 3 (Carcase assembly)
- The Rabbit Hutch – Part 4 (Floor frames)
In the last post, I made the floor frames for both levels of the hutch. I need to install these, but first I’m going to paint the inside of the hutch while I can still get in there.
The two floor frames were installed with screws. I had drilled countersunk pilot holes in the last post, and they made installation must easier now.
You may remember way back to my first post in this series when I made the doors. Now it is time to install and paint them. I also installed galvanized latches.
I gave a little thought to the inside of the hutch and decided that it would be pretty dark in there once the back and the roof are on. I decided that I could lighten it up a little, by painting the interior surfaces gloss white. This will help to reflect what light does come in through the wire mesh doors.
After testing the fit off the back, I prepped it for painting.
With the back installed, I moved on to fixing an oversight in my design. There is a large gap above the front face frame and below the roofline. I decided that I could fill this with a piece of plywood, but needed some backing support to attach it to. I cut three pieces of douglas fir and beveled the tops to match the pitch of the roof.
I screwed the backer blocks to the hutch and painted them before installing the plywood board.
With that, the main body of the hutch is done. Now I need to build two poop drawers, a roof, a ramp, and a small insulated box that the rabbits can go into to avoid the worst of winter.
In the next post, I’ll tackle the drawers.
– Jonathan White
On a regular basis, probably at least once a week, someone contacts me looking to have a pin oak milled into lumber. They are excited because they finally got their hands on a truly giant specimen of a tree, and even though it is just a red oak, they are excited to get to work with a hardwood at a reasonable price. Unfortunately, I have to be the bearer of not-so-good news and try to get them to reconsider.
As I mentioned, pin oak is in the red oak family, but that is about the only relationship it has to any decent red oak lumber. Pin oak is not milled and sold commercially under the name red oak, and as far as I know, is only used for low-grade products like pallets and blocking, where the only requirement is that it be made of wood that will stay together. And funny enough, pin oak often falls short of even that low requirement.
The problem is that many pin oak trees suffer from ring shake, which is where the rings of the tree peel apart like an onion, making that section of lumber nearly unusable. The beauty of ring shake is that it can’t be seen from the outside of the log and it won’t always be visible even early in the milling process. Sometimes, it won’t be until the lumber has been fully processed and dried for it to start falling apart. Needless to say this is frustrating, especially if you are counting on that lumber for a project and then end up with no wood to work. Even if the ring shake isn’t bad enough to make the lumber actually break, it very often leaves at least one fancy break line somewhere in a board where you would rather not have it. Again, super frustrating.
So, let’s say you find a pin oak that is solid, with no ring shake, then it is all clear sailing, right? Far from it. You may have lumber, but you probably don’t have great lumber. One of the main attractions for pin oak is the giant size and the promise of a never-ending bunk of lumber comprised of super-wide boards. This, you may indeed have, but it comes at a cost. The cost is that all of the super-wide lumber will have super-wide growth rings, rings that may be up to 1/2″ or more in width. Because the tree grows so fast, putting on up to 1″ in diameter per year, the logs get big in a hurry too. It isn’t uncommon for a 36″ diameter log to have only started growing 45 years ago. It was planted because the trees grow to a large, stately appearance quickly, and that means big, wide growth rings.
Big growth rings mean a coarse textured wood, no matter how you cut it. Whether flatsawn or quartersawn, red oak is already known for its open, in-your-face, grain, and pin oak is ten times worse. Imagine an 8″ wide flat sawn board that may only show a couple of annual rings on the face. It looks more like the cheapest of spiral cut plywood for sheathing the side of your house, instead of quality hardwood lumber for building fine furniture. That same 8″ wide board, if quartersawn, will probably show about 20-25 rings, where a high quality white oak board will show 60-80 rings. The difference is night and day, with the higher growth ring count looking much more refined and not so clunky.
Even if the wood stayed together and for some reason the growth rings weren’t so wide, pin oak would still be far from a great hardwood. The lumber typically also sports bad color, bad smell (commonly referred to as “piss” oak by local tree guys), and many more knots than are outwardly apparent. Since the trees are usually open grown and well pruned, the always straight, always perfectly upright trunks appear to contain up to 30′-40′ of clear lumber. The truth is that the trunks typically contain only 8′ of clear lumber near the ground, with the remainder being full of knots from previously trimmed branches.
Overall, I have nothing good to say about pin oaks, except that they grow big, tall and straight. And, while it may be possible to mill pin oak lumber that meets some minimum requirements (like staying together), the best pin oak is still easily surpassed in quality by almost any other reputable wood. Just know, if you are thinking about paying someone to mill a pin oak tree for you, that I wouldn’t even mill a pin oak if it magically fell on my sawmill. I would take the extra time to get it out of the way, so I could mill something better. It’s just not worth it. Move on.
I’ve mentioned a couple of times that I was working on an office interior in which all four walls had something made from sapele. I thought I’d share some of the woodwork, but I particularly wanted to show the before and after when using shellac – off-the-store-shelf, right-out-of-the-can shellac. Thank you Zinsser.
And thank you suppliers for stocking fresh shellac, when they had it. The first stop – big blue – had two outdated gallons (one from 2008 and one from 2010) and one from 2014.
Week in Review At Pop Wood, we create a lot of great content and I think it would be downright tragic if you missed an article, social media post or YouTube video. So I have compiled all of our content in this post for your reading pleasure. Not included is the outstanding content that Megan Fitzpatrick curates on our Instagram account, find that here. Have a great Sunday! – David […]
|the back of the shelves|
|Stanley 102 blockplane|
|dirt from the vise|
|dirty finger prints|
|planning stages still|
|what will be going in the new cabinet|
|the biggest thing I have to put in the cabinet|
|nice and shiny|
|knob off my #2 on the left|
|the back side before and comparison pic|
|the new way|
Last night while doing the 5 1/4 knob the Bar Keeps settled out to the bottom and today I kept stirring it to keep in solution. I kept doing this until I was able to hold the knob in my hand.
|been about 4-5 minutes|
|looks better and as good as it's neighbor|
|my Stanley parts|
|this is the same barrel nut that is in the plane tote now|
|ready to sand the sole and cheeks|
|wanna be frog screw washers|
|another diversion, broken tab on a lever cap|
|a helping hand?|
|sizing the cabinet|
|my minimum depth|
|double stacked the spray cans for a minimum height|
|enough distractions, I started the sanding with 180 grit|
|dropped down to 80|
|five strokes on the fresh 80 grit|
|it's getting smaller|
|starboard side cheek|
|port side cheek|
|ten minutes later|
|#4 for my grandson|
|done with the sanding|
|there is a burr here|
|back to the 5 1/4|
|blurry pic of a paint holiday|
|220 grit on the left, fine grit on the right|
|got some reading to do|
Why was popcorn banned at most theaters in the 1920's?
answer - it was considered too noisy