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General Woodworking

almost had a melt down......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 07/19/2017 - 2:30am
It sucks to get old and lose you short term memory. I changed my password at work and I was going to change it at home too, but I couldn't log in. I kept getting an incorrect password, try again. After over an hour of trying I finally got it. I was entering in my password and I was adding an extra character when I tried to log in. I finally got signed in when I wrote the password down a piece of paper, It was then that I realized I had been using a same double character because that is what I had done with my work password.

My blood pressure remained normal and I didn't change into a raging nut job which my wife was very proud of. All this did really was put me behind the eight ball with getting tomorrow's blog post ready. One thing I did do before I started writing this was to make a password reset recovery USB. I thought I had done that but I don't remember it and if I did, I don't know where I stuck the USB stick.

my new camera
I read the manual and all that did for was let me know how much I don't know about this camera. I'll be sticking with the Point and Shoot mode for now. I have started looking around for a beginners photography class because I would like to learn how to use some of the features of this expensive camera.

my very first pic with the new camera
This is my male cat Mr Darcy in attack mode. There are some birds on the planter outside on the other side of the window.

I forgot to snap this pic last night
I made these cabinets (6 of them) with the rabbet tongue joint. It's been over twenty years and they have been through 3 moves, 4 installs, and they are still together. I think I made these on the tablesaw.

set up board to get the outside wall of the groove
knifed the in and outside of the groove to prevent chipout
worked good in this pine
knifed my two groove lines
I am going to the max with practicing and trying new things for me on this cabinet build.  I am going to make this rabbeted tongue joint by hand. I am going to saw the cheek to depth and then I'll split out the tongue. Next will be the trimming and the fitting. Then a door and panel made all by hand too. The very last thing will be the oohs and aahs.


this is prone to chipout and blowouts
This is the exit for the groove and the plane iron could wreck havoc here. I sawed the walls and chiseled a ramp to alleviate that happening.

first groove to depth
Even with the help I gave on this end I still got a lot of blowout. This wood is very dry and brittle and I was afraid this would happen. It is only a short piece of blowout and I'll put a dutchman in here once the cabinet is glued up.

groove number 2
Got more blowout on the exit again. This will have to be dutched because it is kitty corner from the first one and I can only hide one of these at the back. Also got some chipping along the outside groove.

3rd groove
Almost perfect. Almost no chipout along the length and no blowouts on the exit. I knifed the wall after every pass and it helped a lot.

the last one, #4
No blowout on the exit and I did knife this as I ran the plow but got a whole lot of chipout on the lead in end. I had knifed this but the iron caught something and boom, I had this mess. I think I tilted the plane a bit outboard and the iron caught the top edge and did the damage.

The action of this Lee Valley plow plane is very sweet. It was a joy to use on this and a huge step up over the Record 405 (English version of the Stanley 45). Less bulk and weight and a lot more nimble and easier to push. Well worth putting on your xmas list to buy in august.

ran two gauge lines
The line on the left is from using the wrong marking gauge (I had two of the same set for different widths). But it works in my favor as I need to go to the line on the right. So I really can't screw this up by chopping on the wrong line.

tongue laid out
The tongue is nothing more than a rabbet. I chiseled a knife wall and sawed down to the gauge lines on the sides.

splitting out the rabbet
I wasn't a fan of this but after whacking out these four, I am in the liking it camp. I am quite happy with how my progress with hand tool work is paying off. I would not have tried to do this a year ago. Now, even though this essentially is my first time trying it, I feel like it is old hat. It is just a long tenon. I started the chopping at the 1/2 point to see which way it was going to split . I got lucky as it split straight down.

got one split out
My tongue is strong because I marked it that way. I sawed on my knife line for the cheek and I will have to square that up and thin the tongue down a bit.

lucky again with #2
I split it at the 1/2 mark and I will split the distance to the knife line one more time before going right into the gauge line.

this end isn't splitting off cleanly
I sawed a bit more on this end so my splits would come off cleanly.

too fat but I knew that
What I didn't know was that I would have a mind fart and layout for the tongue wrong. The tongue is not 3/4" long, it is only a 1/4". Not only did I layout the length wrong, I also laid it out on the wrong side of the top and bottom.

this should have been on the side of the tongue
This will work in my favor because I will have to layout for the center divider again. Because of my tongue layout SNAFU I lost 3/4 inch in the width of the ID on the cabinet. These layout marks will be on the top and bottom outsides and covered with paint.

squared up the cheek
cleaning up and squaring the tongue with the router plane
one corner caught, the rest is too fat
fits but the tongue needs some trimming
making a tongue marker
I stuck a piece of scrap in the groove and planed it flush.

marked and ready to saw off
I was going to quit here as it was almost 1700 but I was so close to fitting this I stayed and finished this first one.

inside joint line
All four of the inside lines of the groove came out chipout free. This is what will be seen when the cabinet is opened . The blowouts and chipouts on the other side of the groove line will be on the outside. Dutchmen, putty, and paint will hide those sins.

the oops side
I sawed off the knife line at this end and that is what that gap is from. This was relatively easy to do. On a scale of 1(easy) to 10 (hard), I would rate this a 4 tops. A year ago I would have rated this a 4,557. I mean how could I have done the sawing and planing to knife lines back then without going beyond them? I don't think my skill set was sufficient then to attempt this. And splitting out 4 tongues each almost 12" long and have them come out straight and square?  This first joint trimming and fitting was very satisfying.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many official perfect games have been throw in Major League Baseball?
answer - out of over 210,000 games only 23

The Rabbit Hutch – Part 6

The Bench Blog - Wed, 07/19/2017 - 1:00am

The rabbit hutch project is finally looking like a rabbit hutch.  I got a lot done in the last post, but now I need to make the two poop drawers that will sit beneath the wire mesh floors.

You can see the earlier posts in this series here:

In the last post, I painted the hutch, installed the floor frames, fitted and installed the back panels, installed the doors, and made a piece to fill the gap at the top of the front.  Wow, that’s a lot for one post.  Time to make the poop drawers.  Again, I’m skipping photos of me milling wood.

Oak, milled to make the bottom drawer.

Oak, milled to make the bottom drawer.

Laying out tails for the oak drawer.

Laying out tails for the oak drawer.

Cutting the tails.

Cutting the tails.

Chopping out the waste.

Chopping out the waste.

Time to cut the pins.

Time to cut the pins.

Glue up time.

Glue up time.

I found that there was a slight inward bow in the long sides of the draw frame.  I cut a piece of scrap to temporarily keep these pushed out straight while I nailed the bottom on.

The drawer frame ready for the bottom to be nailed on.

The drawer frame ready for the bottom to be nailed on.

For the bottom I decided to use a ¼ plywood that is faced one side with paper.  I think that it is designed to be used as an underlayment for tile.  To attach the bottom, I used Titebond III and nails.

Ring shank nails to attach the bottom.

Ring shank nails to attach the bottom.

Rounding over the edges.

Rounding over the edges.

Flush trimming the drawer bottom.

Flush trimming the drawer bottom.

Flush trimmed, rounded over, and sanded.

Flush trimmed, rounded over, and sanded.

With the bottom drawer made, I gave the outside a couple of coats of paint. Not the inside, that’s getting different treatment.

I applied a couple of coats of paint.

I applied a couple of coats of paint.

So that  the drawer doesn’t slide directly on its plywood bottom, I added an oak runner or wear strip to the bottom edges.

¼" Oak wear strips added to the bottom of the drawers.

¼” Oak wear strips added to the bottom of the drawers.

I applied a heavy coat of paraffin wax to the wear strip.

I applied a heavy coat of paraffin wax to the wear strip.

The bottom drawer was fairly simple.  The upper drawer is a little more complicated as it needs to have a notch cut out of the back to account for the ramp that links the upper and lower levels of the hutch.

I milled up a bunch of oak stock and cut all the pieces to length to make the drawers.

I milled up a bunch of oak stock and cut all the pieces to length to make the drawers.

I’ll skip all the photos of the dovetailing this time as it is exactly the same as the first drawer.  In the bellow (after) photo, you can see the joints all finished.  This one took a little longer because of the notch.  As you can see, it has eight dovetail joints instead of four.

After much sawing and chiseling, I had this frame assembled.

After much sawing and chiseling, I had this frame assembled.

I cut an appropriately sized piece of ¼-inch ply for the bottom of the drawer. This was glued and nailed in place.

I cut an appropriately sized piece of ¼-inch ply for the bottom of the drawer. This was glued and nailed in place.

I did the same flush-cut and round-over with the trim router before painting.

After softening all of the edges with a ⅛-inch round over bit, I painted the drawer.

After softening all of the edges with a ⅛-inch round over bit, I painted the drawer.

My next-door neighbor had some left over countertop laminate that he gave me.  This will make a great waterproof liner for the drawers.

Glueing laminate to the inside of the upper poop drawer.

Glueing laminate to the inside of the upper poop drawer.

I didn't get all of the parts to align perfectly, but a good application of silicone caulking will take care of that later.

I didn’t get all of the parts to align perfectly, but a good application of silicone caulking will take care of that later.

After the glue had cured, I trimmed the edges flush with the laminate trim router and a block plane.

I made a quick jig for installing drawer pulls.

I made a quick jig for installing drawer pulls.

This will ensure that the holes are drilled in the right place.

This will ensure that the holes are drilled in the right place.

I bought these drawer pulls at a clearance sale at the Lee Valley store when I took a trip to Kelowna, BC last year.   I knew they would come in handy at some point.

Not bad for a 12¢ drawer pull.

Not bad for a 12¢ drawer pull.

I caulked all the seams and painted the top edges of the oak.

I caulked all the seams and painted the top edges of the oak.

This should keep any liquid from getting at the wood.

This should keep any liquid from getting at the wood.

The top and bottom drawers were done the same.

The top and bottom drawers were done the same.

Here are the drawers installed in the hutch.

Here are the drawers installed in the hutch.

 

Well, that’s the drawers done.  Now this thing needs a roof.  More on that in the next post.

 

– Jonathan White

OxyAcetylene in Furniture Making

The Furniture Record - Tue, 07/18/2017 - 10:07pm

Your are going to be disappointed to learn this post is about furniture making and not woodworking. They aren’t always the same activity. I haven’t come up with a new subtractive furniture making technique using flame.

What the title refers to is furniture I have found that looks like wood but is actually metal. First I found some chairs in Alpharetta, GA. a few years back:

IMG_5512

The metal Windsor chairs.

IMG_5516

Metal wood furniture comes in black, too.

Next, I found this kitchen rack at a local antiques multi-dealer shop:

IMG_1969

Made from that special magnetic wood.

Tuesday, I found two more pieces over in Raleigh:

IMG_0749

A fan back chair not in wood.

And finally, this desk:

IMG_0765

Does one need a lathe to turn metal spindles?

You can tell it’s metal by looking at a drawer side:

IMG_0766

No dovetails!


Update on Online SketchUp Classes

Bob Lang's ReadWatchDo - Tue, 07/18/2017 - 5:51pm
About two months ago I floated the idea of offering online SketchUp classes and about one month ago I held some live practice sessions. It’s a simple idea; I can connect with students online, they can see my screen, I Continue reading →
Categories: General Woodworking

My 2017 Summer Woodworking Reading List – J. Norman Reid

Highland Woodworking - Tue, 07/18/2017 - 9:41am

I have a lot of interests, only some of them related to woodworking, so my reading plans for the summer are somewhat diverse. But let’s start with woodworking.

First on my list is David Esterly’s The Lost Carving: A Journey to the Heart of Making. Having read this one previously, I know it to be a lyrical exploration of the craft of fine carving to replace a Grinling Gibbons carving burned in a Hampton Court fire. I am relishing the chance to revisit this favorite of mine. I also plan to read Aldren Watson’s classic Hand Tools, as much for his finely-executed drawings as for the many ideas contained therein. I recently bought the Stanley Tools Catalogue No. 34 from Lost Art Press and plan to spend some time perusing Stanley’s classic offerings. Finally, I have a copy of Joshua Vogel’s The Artful Wooden Spoon that is another fine example of the craft of making things of utility and beauty.

I’ve developed a passion for black & white photography and have set a goal for myself to master fine art B&W printing. I have a stack of books on this subject, the principal of which are Harold Davis’s Monochromatic HDR Photography, Michael Freeman’s The Complete Guide to Black & White Digital Photography, and George DeWolfe’s B&W Printing. There are others in my library, but I’ll commence with these.

I’ve also set myself on a course to better understand the roots of creativity and the creative life. I’m starting with Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi’s classic Creativity, a study of notably creative people and the factors that characterize their lives. I’ll follow this with historian Daniel Boorstin’s The Creators, which recounts the lives of historically important creators. I’ve already begun Michael J. Gelb’s How to Think Like Leonardo da Vinci, though because it is replete with exercises that will take me time to work through, I have no expectation of completing it this summer.

As if this weren’t fun enough, I’ll listen to audio books while working in the woodshop—my usual practice. Here my tastes run the gamut from Greek and Roman philosophy to military history and the latest Michael Connelly mystery. It should be an informative and entertaining summer of reading.

Norm Reid is a woodworker, writer, and woodworking instructor living in the Blue Ridge Mountains with his wife, a woodshop full of power and hand tools and four cats who think they are cabinetmaker’s assistants. He is the author of the forthcoming book Choosing and Using Handplanes. He can be contacted at nreid@fcc.net.

The post My 2017 Summer Woodworking Reading List – J. Norman Reid appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

carving some oak

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Tue, 07/18/2017 - 7:21am

I have several days, even weeks maybe, to work on oak furniture now. Some carving yesterday & this morning. here’s a quick photo tour of cutting one lozenge/diamond shape, with tulips in it.

After laying out a diamond shape on horizontal & vertical centerlines, I strike an inner diamond with a small gouge, approximately a #7 sweep. Maybe it’s a 1/4″ wide. Just connect the dots, hitting the vertical & horizontal centerlines with the corners of the gouge.

Then I use the same gouge to “echo” this making an outline around it, these do not connect.

A more deeply curved gouge now comes off these outlines, beginning to form the undersides of the flowers.

Then the same gouge reverses, making an “S”-curve going out to the border. Or just about out to the border…

When you repeat this step on all four quadrants, your negative shape becomes quite prominent – it reminds me of those Goldfish snacks small children eat –

 

Now a larger gouge, approximately a #8 – reverses again, forming the tops of the lower flower petals.

 

Then a #7 about 3/4″ wide does more connect-the-dots – reaching from where I left off to the borders. that’s the whole outline. This one is quite small, the piece of wood is 6″ wide, and there’s a 3/4″ margin on both edges. You can use the same pattern on a panel, then some of this outline is cut with a v-tool instead of struck with the gouges.

 

Then I cut out the background. In this case, it was tight quarters in there, so I used a couple different tools, depending on where I had to get..

The end result. about 15 minutes of carving for the lozenge/diamond. This is going to be one of three muntins for the footboard of a bedstead I’m making.

Here’s the top rail I started back at the Lie-Nielsen Open House…they always show up better once they’re oiled.

another view.

Yesterday I started painting a desk box I have underway; but found out I was out of red pigment (iron oxide) – ordered some, and did the black for starters.


some personal things to attend to.......

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 07/18/2017 - 1:34am
Sunday I finally signed into, rather tried to sign into my IRA account. Now that I am debt free I want to up my contributions to the account. I've been meaning to do but I kept forgetting about it. I signed in and failed my authentication and got locked out. With this account it isn't 3 strikes per login attempt, rather it is 3 strikes total. I must have had 2 previous strikes because I only had one strike now.

The step I failed in was answering my phone to get the access code to authenticate me. I have an admission to make - I don't know how to answer my phone.  You have drag one colored phone receiver icon over to another one. I always pick the wrong one and if I pick the right one, I go in the wrong direction. Whatever happened to just picking a phone up and just saying hello? Where and when did that go south on the nutso express?

Anyways, I am doing ok with texting and I seem to get that right. I should have picked getting my authentication code by text but that is a moot point now. My window of opportunity to talk to a representative  to unlock my account was a bit on the narrow side and the times to do so were based on EST. As soon as I got home I got their number and called.

I placed the call at 1550 and I got done talking with the rep at 1620. I almost failed getting my account unlocked again. My SSN and DOB I know but my last transaction with the account was when? When did I open the account with them? This is where I was put on hold for a long time. While I was waiting I found my IRA folder and saw that I had opened this account in 2008. I told him it was 2010 or 2011. I did get the last contribution amount correct and that was what got me unfrozen.

The rep was good enough to stay on the line and set up my recurring contribution. That was a big help because I am not good with this kind of crap. I usually employ my wife to help with it. I'm glad I got it done, got my account unlocked and my contribution set up, and I don't have to deal with this again. But it did eat up a ton of my shop time.

was on sunday's to do list
I do want to strip and paint this because I really like the look of the #2 I just stripped and painted. I finally got around to doing this at 1500 but I didn't want to deal with it that late in the day. I got this in the queue for friday morning. What I can see coming is me now going back and stripping all of my planes and painting them.

split glued up yesterday
This is the same board I had to put the 3 dutchmen in. I checked the other three corners and one had a split I had to glue.

two edge repairs
There is a bit of gap on both but these will be painted. And before I paint them, I'll fill in this and all the other nail and screw holes with Durhams Putty.

my big tapered dutchman
A bit of gap on the edge and this is after I trimmed and checked it a few times.

the face came out good and without gaps
the end
The last 3/4" of the taper dropped off a bit at the end. I didn't want to make the dutchman to the depth of that end dip. I felt that would have left a very thin tapered tongue and it wouldn't have a lot of strength. I plugged that little dipsy doodle with a shim.

I have enough time to do some layout
I am going with a rabbeted tongue joint. I was going to dovetail this but the wood is dry and a bit on the brittle side. I don't think that is would survive the hammering and chiseling without breaking.

all by hand
I have used this joint to make a boatload of cabinets. I've done the joinery on the tablesaw and with a router and a rabbeting bit. Now for your entertainment pleasure I am going to attempt to make it with my new plow plane. And maybe a saw and some chisels. And a tenon plane or a bullnose plane.

the horizontal board gets a groove and the vertical one gets the tongue
I'm keeping the very dry nature of these boards in mind. I will start with the groove and if that works I'll have a rabbet and tongue joint. If the wood to the outside edge of the groove breaks off, I'll make the groove a rabbet and I won't have to make a tongue on the other board. Just in case.

look see to the future
My last check to make sure I'll be able to put what I want in here. I am only going to make one drawer instead of the 3 I originally planned to do.

my longest Hake brush
This brush is driving the size of the interior of the drawer.

off center divider
This divider will go top to bottom and be easy to layout and make the dadoes for it. This will be set back from the front edge by 1/2". This will allow me to put a knob on the drawer and still close the door.

this shelf won't be so straight forward
This shelf will be inlet into the side and the divider but both will be different heights from the bottom. The divider will set in a dado and the side is a tongue and groove. I can't just mark both for dadoes and be done. I will have to do all the joinery for the corners and fit the divider first. Then dry clamp that and then mark for the shelf dadoes.

this will be the center divider
this will be the shelf
Both of these are oversized for now. I will get the final dimensions after the carcass is together.

where has this been all my life?
This rates right up there with 3 greatest inventions known to man. Namely, ice cubes, sliced white bread, and popcorn. I still haven't developed my eye well enough to continue a knife around a corner with a square yet. This thing is a no brainer and even I find it incredibly hard to screw it up.

So far the cabinet carcass is made up from boards left over from the old kitchen cabinets. I was hoping to be able to make the entire finishing cabinet from that stock but it won't be happening sports fans. I'll get some pine from Pepin's Lumber for the door.

today's temp sans the humidity
The top temp is the living room and the bottom one is the porch.

still tacky according to my wife
I was hoping that the warm temps on the porch would finally dry these shelves out. They do feel a little better than they did in the cellar. I'm going to let them stay here on the porch until this weekend. I say they feel clammy and my wife says they feel tacky. Maybe there will be some joy in Mudville come saturday and the clammy vs tacky issues will be resolved too.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first black quarterback inducted into the NFL Hall of Fame?
answer -  Warren Moon who was also not drafted out of college

Everyday Console Table

MVFlaim Furnituremaker - Mon, 07/17/2017 - 6:28pm

I call this piece the “everyday table” because you see this design everyday. I spotted this one at Home Goods just last week. It’s kind of a cross between a table and a bookcase. As far as construction goes, it’s very simple. Six framed legs with a top, a couple of shelves and a cross “X” on each side. In fact, there’s a website that shows how to build this table, pocket screws and all.

20170709_141125

Say what you want about the design and construction, but they are very popular and super easy to build. My wife found the website the other week and asked me to customize one to fit in our dining room as a coffee bar.

20170604_153948

Being true to form, I built ours out of southern yellow pine (2 x 10’s). I wasn’t a fan of the thick 2 x 4 legs so I milled all the parts down to 1″ thick.

img_20170605_111353_327

Keeping it simple, I used pocket screws and glue to attach all the pieces. The shelves are southern yellow pine boards I ripped and glued back together to create a quarter sawn panel so they wouldn’t expand and contract too much.

20170604_140643

The hardest part about building the piece are the X’s on the sides, but all that entails is cutting a couple of half lap joints.

20170604_141457

Here is the finished bar with a vinegar steel wool solution and gel stain on top to give the wood some depth. The coffee bar has turned more into a display table for my wife’s Rae Dunn collection, but that is another story for another day.

20170717_205426

I have since played around with the design again and built another one using eastern white pine. Construction is similar except I used floating tenons instead of pocket screws to build the frames. I’ll still use the vinegar and steel wool solution again on this one and stain it a dark color. My third design will probably have a thicker top and I may use plywood for the shelves. Stay tuned.

20170716_173034

 

 


Luxuriating in Peculiarity

The Barn on White Run - Mon, 07/17/2017 - 4:19pm

I’m in the final week of a project that in some respects highlights my idiosyncratic nature, and truth be told I sorta revel in not fitting in.  (I’ll be blogging at length about this project starting in a week or so, and it will take several dozen postings to get it all.)

My first sense of not fitting in with woodworking came on November 9, 1980, when I attended a weekend workshop in Atlanta taught by Ian Kirby.   I remember it so precisely because it was in a classroom at Georgia Tech, and that was the day that Tech tied the #1  football team (Notre Dame) in the country and the campus went wild.  The subject of the workshop was ostensibly mortise-and-tenon joinery, but I seem to recall him spending an inordinate amount of time extolling the virtues of a new power tool, the biscuit joiner.  Of course I bought one, and of course it has remained unused for the past 46.99 of the intervening 47 years.  I’m soon sending it off to my friend Pete who can put it to good use.

As is often the case at weekend workshops, regardless of the setting or instructor, there is the opening ritual of the attendees introducing themselves to each other.  At this particular weekend the attendees were a mixture of doctors, lawyers, accountants and such.  When I introduced myself as a finisher by trade and that I loved finishing, I could almost sense the rest of the students recoiling as though I was some alien creature whose spaceship was parked out on the lawn.  Despite that, and despite the fact that I was the youngest participant by two or three decades, at every break and every meal I was peppered with questions about the mysterious and un-knowable world of finishing.

I’ve heard that surveys of the populace reveal that the single greatest fear is the terror induced by the prospect of public speaking (I have no such trepidation, probably because I do not care if the audience agrees with me or not).  During that student introduction I was left with a distinct impression that has become cemented over the decades that some/many/most/virtually all woodworkers are as terrified of finishing as they are of public speaking.

Which brings me to my current project, as this week I am rubbing out and detailing the finish I have been so lovingly applying for the past 40 or so hours of shop time.  Not only has every moment of the surface prep and application been something to savor, the bringing of the piece to exquisiteness through the finishing process is simply an embarrassment of riches to me.  Sure, I found it amusing to make the piece from scratch using almost exclusively early-19th Century technologies as specified by the client, including resawing the lumber, cutting all the lumber and joinery by hand, carving all the moldings, hand sawing and assembling the veneerwork.  But to me they were simply the appetizer.

Finishing is the feast, and the whole point of the making.  Which I guess makes me a polisher luxuriating in my own peculiarity.

Understanding & Restoring Antique Hand Saws

Wood and Shop - Mon, 07/17/2017 - 11:55am
  By Joshua Farnsworth In my above video, expert hand saw maker Tom Calisto goes into detail on refurbishing an antique Simonds back saw that I bought several years back. Tom teaches classes at Roy Underhill's The Woodwright's School, and he is a contributing writer for both Fine

Decorative Gouging: A Traditional English Arts & Crafts Technique

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 07/17/2017 - 8:54am

Many pieces of English Arts and Crafts furniture, especially those of the Cotswolds school, feature a cheerful detail known as decorative gouging. It’s a simple technique and amenable to endless variations depending on the combination of gouges used, the spacing and depth of elements, and so on. Here’s an introduction based on the legs for a hayrake table. Decorative gouging gains as much of its effect from its context as […]

The post Decorative Gouging: A Traditional English Arts & Crafts Technique appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Good Ideas Travel Fast

The Furniture Record - Mon, 07/17/2017 - 8:51am

Back in June I found this modified plantation desk at an antiques shop in Winston Salem, NC:

IMG_9619

A plantation desk, another flexible term with many definitions and no real meanings.

It had been modified to change the angle of the writing surface:

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Tapered pieces added to the sides to change the pitch of the writing surface.

This piece was covered in Less Than Fancy Furniture.

We were in Hermann, MO over the weekend for a wedding. We arrived Friday night and the wedding wasn’t until 3:00 PM on Saturday leaving some time for research. Our plane left at 7:15 PM on Sunday leaving more time for research. I am a very diligent researcher. In a shop in Warrenton, I came across this desk:

IMG_0470

Another desk with a history.

This desk has also been modified to change the lid angle:

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Same idea but not as severe since the original angle was not as severe..

Looking inside leads me to believe that they might have replaced the front legs as well.

IMG_0475

Front legs are too tall to be original.

This desk is has a gallery rail and locking storage box affixed to the top:

IMG_0476

The swan is not attached.

The tag gives one possible history of this desk:

IMG_0477

Ir that’s what the dealer says, it must be true.

I am now looking for a third one and I won’t stop until I find it.

And not even then.


A mysterious crate..

The Slightly Confused Woodworker - Mon, 07/17/2017 - 7:40am

For most married men, an age-old question seems to be: ‘What should I get my wife for her birthday?’ Considering that my wife is already the girl who has everything (let’s face it, she hit the proverbial jackpot when she married me!), I usually struggle every year to find a gift clever enough to convince my wife that I actually put some thought into her gift. So this year I went a completely different route, and I’m glad I did.

My wife enjoys to read, though we have drastically different tastes when it comes to reading material ( I wouldn’t be caught dead reading some of the stuff she reads, but oh well). Rather than just purchasing a book for her, I wanted to make the gift of a book more of an experience, and that is why I decided to try the Mysterious Package Co., which specializes in some really out of the ordinary stuff. Without giving away too much information for those who may be receiving a gift, from the MPC in the future-the surprise is a huge part of the experience-you choose a package from the company web page, and the recipient receives a series of mailings featuring packing hay, old newspaper clippings, creepy introduction letters, haunted diaries, beat-up shipping crates, and demon-possessed statues (it all depends on which story line you go with). In any event, the box that contained my wife’s gift was pretty intriguing, and my wife nearly destroyed the lid in her zeal to pry it open. I really loved the vintage Indiana Jones , Ark of the Covenant like appearance (the crate the Ark was stored in, I mean), and since she’s received it I’ve built several different versions of it.

mysterious pkg

A mysterious package…

 

box lid repair

The mysterious lid repair; it was in 3 pieces…

 

box interior

The box interior..

As you can see in the photos, the box is of simple construction, so it can easily be made with hand and/or power tools. I used only hand tools because my daughter wanted to participate, and she was responsible for the stencil print, which put her personal touch on the project. And for good measure I used pallet wood from my company warehouse (I refer to this wood as Danish Pine). The pallet wood had me a little concerned, because it’s pretty common to find old nails and stones embedded in the boards. Thankfully, I have several hand planes from my restored “collection” which were given to me, so I wasn’t overly concerned in using them. That being said, I hardly treat these tools like second class citizens, because I spent a great deal of time and effort restoring them. I am just saying that I am not the type of person who would use his $300 LN jack plane on a sketchy piece of pallet wood- in factI should have taken some photos of the unfinished wood, because it was pretty rough.

On that note, I just so happened to set free a fair amount of hand tools over the past month. It was much more quick and painless than I thought it would be, yet I still have a whole cabinet filled with hand planes.

finished box

My version of the mysterious box…

 

stenciled box

Finished box, one coat of wax, and my daughter’s stenciling added (guess what her favorite TV show is…)

Anyway, the box sizes were determined by the wood I had available, of which I had a decent sized stash. I sawed the boards to rough length and width, used a smooth plane to square the edges, and used a block plane to shoot the ends. I smooth planed a great deal of the roughness from both faces of the wood, though I truly did attempt to leave a few small rough patches to complete the vintage look we were trying to achieve, but considering the boards are all from pallets and were fairly warped/bowed to begin with, simply flattening them enough to be usable removed much of the roughness regardless. I probably could have left the faces of the box rough sawn, but because we were adding stenciling, and I wanted to apply a protective finish, I decided that a smoother surface would work much betters.  To finish off the appearance I glued on some battens to the box sides, which my daughter chamfered with a block plane. Dimensionally the box is approximately 11 in x 5 in x 4 in deep, the wood thickness around ½ inch (I say around because it varies).

The lid for the box featured in the photos was also constructed with pallet wood, which I believe is a hardwood (I’m guessing oak, but that is just a guess). I butt jointed two pretty nasty boards together and left them dry overnight. After they were dry I sawed them to length and then used a scrub plane for the initial flattening, as those boards were by far in the roughest shape of the lot. I then smooth planed the panel, once again attempting to leave the box somewhat “unfinished”. Lastly I used shoulder plane and sanding block to create rabbets so the lid would recess into the box, which really helped to lighten the overall appearance.

The joinery for the boxes is mainly butt joints and cut nails. The only place where I got a little fancy was the for bottom of the first box I made, where I used ship lap joints, and the only reason I did that was because I want to save as many of the wider boards as possible for future boxes, so I pieced it together with smaller cut-offs. Any box with stenciling will receive coat a of shellac and/or some paste wax, more for protection than to enhance the appearance. If you ever plan on adding some type of ink stenciling to a box (we used heavy duty magic markers), I would suggest waiting at least a few days for the ink to dry and really seep into the wood. In fact, I would wait up to a week. Thankfully, I attempted a practice run on a scrap board, and the ink smudged somewhat when I applied BLO, so I knew for future reference to wait at least a few days before applying any type of finish.

This was a fun and relatively easy project, though using all hand tools made it somewhat time consuming (mainly flattening the boards to make them usable). I completed two boxes so far and repaired the original, which as I mentioned was damaged when it was opened. I currently have enough pallet wood left to make at least two more boxes, and I have in inexhaustible supply constantly coming into my company warehouse. And I think making boxes from several different pallets could make them a bit more interesting.

Yet,  not sure if it would be better to purchase pre-surfaced boards and add my own touches to change the appearance (beads, chamfers, different widths etc.) Because while I did enjoy all of the hand plane work, I don’t want to spend the entire summer flattening pallet wood for hours on end, in particular because the hot and humid weather is now in full swing. Still, I’ve already prepped more boards which are generally ready to go, so I can pretty much guarantee that I’ll have a few more of these boxes finished in the next few weeks.


Categories: General Woodworking

it's back to stay.....

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 07/17/2017 - 2:07am
The heat and humidity came back and I think it's going to be a friend for another couple of months. I didn't get to check off all the things on my to do list, but there is always tomorrow. The weather I can deal with although I don't like it. What is kicking my butt is the paint job on the bookcase. I don't know what to make of it or understand why it's doing what it is doing.

One thing I learned from my father was how to paint. And especially so how to clean brushes which was my job when I started painting with him. Not bragging, but I am a damn good painter. I could cut in a multi pane window sash with a straw broom if I had too. I thought I had done everything the way I should have on this - primer coat followed by two top coats. Or in my case, 2 primer coats and 4 top coats and it still isn't 100% dry. I can't give this to my wife as it is because I am afraid that the books will stick the paint job. This has to feel dry to touch before moving on.

no joy in Mudville
I kept the fan blowing on the shelves all night long and nothing.  When I checked this morning they were still clammy feeling. They fell over when I checked them and they stuck together. After all this time they still aren't ready to be used.

got them out of the cellar
I put them out in the yard for the day. They will be in the sunlight here all day long. East is to the left of the left end of the shelves. They stayed here until 1400 when my wife told me that had fallen over. I put them on the porch where they will stay until next weekend.

The exterior of the bookcase feels totally different. It is dry without feeling clammy anywhere, even the bottom of the bookcase.  I can feel the texture of the wood so I know that I can coat this with poly. It isn't necessary but with a couple coats of poly it will be easier to dust and keep clean.

the before pic
Ths adjuster knob is off the #4 I'm giving to my grandson. I know that I didn't use Bar Keeps Best Friend on this. I think I used brass cleaner and even accounting for the time lapse, it doesn't look good. I am going to clean it with Bar Keeps but use only hot water instead of nuking the whole thing.

big clump
If you don't keep on stirring this the Bar Keeps will settle to the bottom. I nuked the water I used for this until I saw it bubbling. I then mixed in the Bar Keeps and tossed in the knob.

after 5+ minutes in the soup
The Bar Keeps by itself doesn't do anything to shine things up. You need to help it along with something.

cleaned the knurling with a toothbrush
A toothbrush is hit or miss on this. Sometimes it will remove the crud inbetween the knurlings and sometimes it won't. Here it didn't.

the red grudge is gone now
Duh, brass on brass won't leave scratches
The brass brush cleaned up the knurling the best I've seen.

Bar Keeps powder
I am curious as to whether or not this would reusable? I didn't do it this time but on the next one I'll dump the water and let this dry out and see if I can reuse it.

a whole lot of better looking and shiny too

back side
I used a blue scrubbie on the knob except for the knurling. On that I used a small brass brush. Nuking the Bar Keeps and water together is not needed. Mixing it with boiling hot water is the way to go. Bar Keeps will clean up the brass using a brush or a scrubbie that has some water with a little powder applied to them. However, it works much better if it is hot.

working on the frog
 The sides of the frog don't appear to have been painted at all. This side of the frog has been run over some 320 grit sandpaper and it'll take a year for me to knock this down. I gave it a helping hand by doing some file work on it first.

a couple of minutes later
Both side of the frog looked real rough. Almost like they welded together from two pieces badly done.

port side done
I may paint this or leave it bare metal. It's something I haven't made my mind up on yet.

the starboard side
I got most of this filed smooth and flat except for this one low spot. This looks a lot better than it did yesterday.

face is done
I sanded this with 100 and finished with 220 and 320. This is sufficient for this. It is relatively scratch free and for the most part shiny.

getting my finishing cabinet width
The cabinet is 27" high and will be 11" deep. With this layout the width would have been 26 1/4" which would make the cabinet almost dead nuts square. I like my cabinet to be rectangular so I'm losing the drawer on the far right. With that gone the width shrunk down to 20".

After cutting out the stock for the sides and the top/bottom, I noticed that I didn't have any stock left to make a door with. I have what I need for the shell but I'll have to buy stock for the door and for the drawer(s).

the cabinet shell
Dovetail the corners or use a rabbet joint?

they are off
I didn't pay these any mind while sawing them to size. They are a wee bit more than a 1/4" off from each other.

corner is blown out
also has some shakes and splits
I'll dutch something in because I don't have stock to make another side
sawed a tapered rabbet
cleaned up both faces with the rabbet plane
I forced some glue into the shakes and splits first and then glued in the tapered dutchman.

two more hiccups to fix

ran gauge lines top and bottom
I squared off the ends and sawed down to the two gauge lines.

chiseled out the waste between the stop cuts
another split on the other end being fixed
I glued on some scraps in the two dutchmen and I let that cook for a few hours. I sawed off as much of the waste as I could and then planed it flush. I had pics of all this but you need to have the SD card in the camera. I don't know why I took it out but I forgot to put it back before I snapped more pics.

made some 1/4" dowels
The smallest dowels I have in my stock pile are 5/16" and up. I need to fill in the holes  as I what to put in a few adjustable shelves.

done
I was able to plug all the holes with just 4 of these billets. Each one was long enough to fill one row of holes top to bottom.

Maybe tomorrow I can get the carcass together.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Francis Gabreski?
answer - American's #1 Ace in the european theater during WWII with 28 kills



The Rabbit Hutch – Part 5

The Bench Blog - Mon, 07/17/2017 - 1:00am

The rabbit hutch project is finally taking shape.  I usually don’t paint or finish a project until the very end, but this one really calls for painting along the way.  Painting many of the inside parts would be difficult later, but easy if done now.

In the last post, I made the floor frames for both levels of the hutch.   I need to install these, but first I’m going to paint the inside of the hutch while I can still get in there.

Starting the painting process.

Starting the painting process.

I left the top of the drawer runners unpainted and gave them a heavy application of paraffin wax.

I left the top of the drawer runners unpainted and gave them a heavy application of paraffin wax.

I also applied some wax to the side of the hutch where the drawer makes contact.

I also applied some wax to the side of the hutch where the drawer makes contact.

The two floor frames were installed with screws.  I had drilled countersunk pilot holes in the last post, and they made installation must easier now.

I installed the two floor frames.

I installed the two floor frames.

You may remember way back to my first post in this series when I made the doors.  Now it is time to install and paint them.  I also installed galvanized latches.

Installing the doors.

Installing the doors.

I gave a little thought to the inside of the hutch and decided that it would be pretty dark in there once the back and the roof are on.  I decided that I could lighten it up a little, by painting the interior surfaces gloss white.  This will help to reflect what light does come in through the wire mesh doors.

Cutting the plywood for the back of the hutch.

Cutting the plywood for the back of the hutch.

Due to the dimensions, the back had to be made from two sheets of plywood.

Due to the dimensions, the back had to be made from two sheets of plywood.

Testing the fit before painting.

Testing the fit before painting.

I beveled the top edge of the plywood.

I beveled the top edge of the plywood.

After testing the fit off the back, I prepped it for painting.

Filling the worst of the defects on the plywood.

Filling the worst of the defects on the plywood.

White pain on the inside face.

White paint on the inside face.

With the back installed, I moved on to fixing an oversight in my design.  There is a large gap above the front face frame and below the roofline. I decided that I could fill this with a piece of plywood, but needed some backing support to attach it to.  I cut three pieces of douglas fir and beveled the tops to match the pitch of the roof.

I cut and fitted some backer blocks.

I cut and fitted some backer blocks.

These will allow me to attach a plywood piece to fill the gap.

These will allow me to attach a plywood piece to fill the gap.

I cut a plywood piece to fill the opening.

I cut a plywood piece to fill the opening.

I screwed the backer blocks to the hutch and painted them before installing the plywood board.

I painted the backer parts.

I painted the backer parts.

That will keep the wood protected.

That will keep the wood protected.

Painting the plywood.

Painting the plywood.

Installed with some screws.

Installed with some screws.

I countersunk the screws.

I countersunk the screws.

I filled the holes and calked the edges.

I filled the holes and caulked the edges.

After the caulk had cured, I painted.

After the caulk had cured, I painted.

Another part done.

Another part done.

With that, the main body of the hutch is done.  Now I need to build two poop drawers, a roof, a ramp, and a small insulated box that the rabbits can go into to avoid the worst of winter.

In the next post, I’ll tackle the drawers.

 

– Jonathan White

Why Not Mill Pin Oak?

Wunder Woods - Sun, 07/16/2017 - 3:43pm

On a regular basis, probably at least once a week, someone contacts me looking to have a pin oak milled into lumber. They are excited because they finally got their hands on a truly giant specimen of a tree, and even though it is just a red oak, they are excited to get to work with a hardwood at a reasonable price. Unfortunately, I have to be the bearer of not-so-good news and try to get them to reconsider.

This pin oak is less than 20 years old and is already over 15″ in diameter.

As I mentioned, pin oak is in the red oak family, but that is about the only relationship it has to any decent red oak lumber. Pin oak is not milled and sold commercially under the name red oak, and as far as I know, is only used for low-grade products like pallets and blocking, where the only requirement is that it be made of wood that will stay together. And funny enough, pin oak often falls short of even that low requirement.

The problem is that many pin oak trees suffer from ring shake, which is where the rings of the tree peel apart like an onion, making that section of lumber nearly unusable. The beauty of ring shake is that it can’t be seen from the outside of the log and it won’t always be visible even early in the milling process. Sometimes, it won’t be until the lumber has been fully processed and dried for it to start falling apart. Needless to say this is frustrating, especially if you are counting on that lumber for a project and then end up with no wood to work. Even if the ring shake isn’t bad enough to make the lumber actually break, it very often leaves at least one fancy break line somewhere in a board where you would rather not have it. Again, super frustrating.

So, let’s say you find a pin oak that is solid, with no ring shake, then it is all clear sailing, right? Far from it. You may have lumber, but you probably don’t have great lumber. One of the main attractions for pin oak is the giant size and the promise of a never-ending bunk of lumber comprised of super-wide boards. This, you may indeed have, but it comes at a cost. The cost is that all of the super-wide lumber will have super-wide growth rings, rings that may be up to 1/2″ or more in width. Because the tree grows so fast, putting on up to 1″ in diameter per year, the logs get big in a hurry too. It isn’t uncommon for a 36″ diameter log to have only started growing 45 years ago. It was planted because the trees grow to a large, stately appearance quickly, and that means big, wide growth rings.

Big growth rings mean a coarse textured wood, no matter how you cut it. Whether flatsawn or quartersawn, red oak is already known for its open, in-your-face, grain, and pin oak is ten times worse. Imagine an 8″ wide flat sawn board that may only show a couple of annual rings on the face. It looks more like the cheapest of spiral cut plywood for sheathing the side of your house, instead of quality hardwood lumber for building fine furniture. That same 8″ wide board, if quartersawn, will probably show about 20-25 rings, where a high quality white oak board will show 60-80 rings. The difference is night and day, with the higher growth ring count looking much more refined and not so clunky.

Even if the wood stayed together and for some reason the growth rings weren’t so wide, pin oak would still be far from a great hardwood. The lumber typically also sports bad color, bad smell (commonly referred to as “piss” oak by local tree guys), and many more knots than are outwardly apparent. Since the trees are usually open grown and well pruned, the always straight, always perfectly upright trunks appear to contain up to 30′-40′ of clear lumber. The truth is that the trunks typically contain only 8′ of clear lumber near the ground, with the remainder being full of knots from previously trimmed branches.

Overall, I have nothing good to say about pin oaks, except that they grow big, tall and straight. And, while it may be possible to mill pin oak lumber that meets some minimum requirements (like staying together), the best pin oak is still easily surpassed in quality by almost any other reputable wood. Just know, if you are thinking about paying someone to mill a pin oak tree for you, that I wouldn’t even mill a pin oak if it magically fell on my sawmill. I would take the extra time to get it out of the way, so I could mill something better. It’s just not worth it. Move on.


Categories: General Woodworking

Using the jig to peen a scythe

Steve Tomlin Crafts - Sun, 07/16/2017 - 9:01am
Photos and video from a Sunday afternoon peening. Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

A Good Shellacking

360 WoodWorking - Sun, 07/16/2017 - 4:10am
A Good Shellacking

I’ve mentioned a couple of times that I was working on an office interior in which all four walls had something made from sapele. I thought I’d share some of the woodwork, but I particularly wanted to show the before and after when using shellac – off-the-store-shelf, right-out-of-the-can shellac. Thank you Zinsser.

And thank you suppliers for stocking fresh shellac, when they had it. The first stop – big blue – had two outdated gallons (one from 2008 and one from 2010) and one from 2014.

Continue reading A Good Shellacking at 360 WoodWorking.

Week in Review – Week of July 10th

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sun, 07/16/2017 - 2:46am

 Week in Review   At Pop Wood, we create a lot of great content and I think it would be downright tragic if you missed an article, social media post or YouTube video. So I have compiled all of our content in this post for your reading pleasure. Not included is the outstanding content that Megan Fitzpatrick curates on our Instagram account, find that here. Have a great Sunday! – David […]

The post Week in Review – Week of July 10th appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

tool rehab day......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 07/16/2017 - 2:03am
Most of the day was spent on rehabbing my grandson's 5 /14 and to sweeten the pot, I added a #4.  Before I got to that I started with the bookcase. The weather has turned humid again and that is playing havoc with the latex paint. It feels dry and a wee bit sticky at the same time. I don't want to chance trying to top coat the latex paint with water based poly and have it go south. So getting the bookcase done this weekend doesn't look like it's going to happen.

the back of the shelves
The shelves dried overnight and I decided to stick them in bookcase and let them dry even further there. However, the %^%$@!__((*%&;*&;#@%^*(^%$ shelves wouldn't fit. Well they did fit but it was too snug for my liking. The front of the shelves were rubbing on the inside of the beaded frame. Over time it would rub off the paint on both pieces. I hadn't planned on having to put 2,359 coats of paint on the shelves and all that paint build up made it too tight.

Stanley 102 blockplane
At least I remembered to use this plane this time. I was going to pass this on to whoever but I am keeping for just these situations. I would rather risk damaging this then one of my bench planes. The 3rd shelf I made I didn't have to plane the back of it.

dirt from the vise
Got lucky as this cleaned up with a rag and some water.

dirty finger prints
Something you have to put up with when you use white paint. Especially so when you are still building as this stuff is a dirt magnet.

planning stages still
These are the last two iterations of the cabinet to come. This shelf is history and the cabinet is going where it lives now. I have been through 6 plans and I am leaning in the direction of the left hand one. The biggest change I made is adding drawers to keep the Hake brushes in. Originally I had planned to hang them on the door but switched to stuffing them in a drawer.

what will be going in the new cabinet
I want to get all of the associated do dads and doohickeys for finishing in the cabinet along with the actual finishes themselves. The left plan shows storage for the spray cans on the left and everything else on the right.

the biggest thing I have to put in the cabinet
This is a little over 7" in diameter so the minimum depth of the cabinet has to be around 8 3/4". I need to allow 3/4"- 1" for the back panel and the french cleat hanger. I was going to start this today but I changed lanes and I'm going to finish the 5 1/4 handplane first.

nice and shiny
What can be better than shiny brass? I cleaned this last night with Bar Keeps Best Friend after dinner. I think I definitely upped the shine on it a few notches.

knob off my #2 on the left
I just got done rehabbing the #2 and this knob isn't as shiny as the 5 1/4. I did the shine job on the 5 1/4 a different way and I'm going to try it on the on the #2.

the back side before and comparison pic
the new way
Last night I mixed the Bar Keeps with hot tap water but it wasn't really hot. So I put it into the microwave oven for 30 seconds. The brass knob was covered with water so it wasn't a problem nuking it too. I kept an eye on it because I wasn't sure what was going to happen and sure enough around 25 seconds it started foaming and rising up. I pulled it out before it overflowed.

Last night while doing the 5 1/4 knob the Bar Keeps settled out to the bottom and today I kept stirring it to keep in solution. I kept doing this until I was able to hold the knob in my hand.

been about 4-5 minutes
 Bar Keeps doesn't clean this without some help from a brush or a scrubbie pad. For real stubborn stains etc, sandpaper usually gets it.

looks better and as good as it's neighbor
I used a blue scrubbie pad on both of these knobs and tooth brush on the knurling. The knurling is what I find the hardest to clean and get shiny looking. After doing two of these I don't think the microwave is necessary. Nuking the water first and then mixing the Bar Keeps in it would work just as well. I think the key in getting this to work better is getting the Bar Keeps solution hot. I'll have to do a comparison of this on my next two knobs to confirm it.

WTF
 Found another missing part. The frog adjusting screw is AWOL.

my Stanley parts
I got most of the parts here in a kit from Highlands Hardware many, many, moons ago. This frog adjust screw is shiny but it doesn't look like the original. I'll look for this and screw washers tonight. In the interim I'll use this so I can finish the rehab.

this is the same barrel nut that is in the plane tote now
ready to sand the sole and cheeks
wanna be frog screw washers
The original washers are slightly larger in the diameter (ID & OD)and thicker. I have bought a lot of wanna be washers and I've yet to find anything even close to the Stanley washers. These will be better than nothing until I get some more.

another diversion, broken tab on a lever cap
I tried to punch this out and got nowhere. I am not sure that I even budged it a frog hair. I need to get a machinist vise for things like this. Trying to hold this and hold the punch and then whack it with a hammer was a step beyond awkward.

a helping hand?
I got the fan blowing in the bookcase instead of me to try and help it dry better. I checked it a half hour later and the shelves felt better. They still felt clammy, but they felt like they were a lot less so. I'll keep the fan blowing on them until tomorrow and see what they feel like then.

sizing the cabinet
I have a square of about 27" x 27" to put the cabinet in. These are some of the spray cans I want to go in the cabinet.

my minimum depth
These two cans are deeper than the chinese take out container is. I don't want a deep cabinet because I don't what to root around in it to find things. I dislike having to move 9 things to get to the one I want.

double stacked the  spray cans for a minimum height
enough distractions, I started the sanding with 180 grit
The 180 grit wasn't doing the job. After a few strokes I could see that the toe was high and rest of the plane sole was low. I tried 120 next because the plane body had looked clean without any scratches or gouges anywhere. 120 was a bust too.

dropped down to 80
I was hoping that I wouldn't have to start with such a low grit based on how the sole and sides looked. I marked the sole up and took 5 strokes on the 80 grit runway and this is what I saw.  High at the toe and low just before to the mouth before another high at the end of the heel. I spent about ten minutes on this and the going was real slow. I wasn't making as much progress as quickly as I wanted to and stopped. I made a road trip to Harbor freight and bought a fresh 80 grit belt.

five strokes on the fresh 80 grit
it's getting smaller
There is still a small low spot just aft of the mouth, amidships. I've been working it for about 20 minutes now and it is slow going.

starboard side cheek
Low spot below the hump down at the bottom.

port side cheek
This has a low spot in the same area but it's bigger and it wasn't in a hurry to get sanded away.

ten minutes later
Success on the starboard side. I didn't devote the entire 10 minutes to just the starboard side. I worked the sole and then sides, one at a time. I check my progress and started all over again.

port side
It is gradually getting smaller. The port side and the amidships hollow on the sole took seemingly forever to sand out.

#4 for my grandson
This is one of the first planes I rehabbed a few years ago and I'm going to give it to my grandson. The cheeks have a few splashes of rust on them and the sole looks shiny with a grunge spots. I am going to check my previous work by taking 5 strokes on the 80 grit first.

done with the sanding
I sanded both planes by hand only with a block with 400 and the 600 grit sandpaper. The 320 and 400 grit belts I have both felt as smooth as piece of paper. Neither one of them appeared to be cutting anything on the planes so that is why I finished it with hand sanding. I also had to sand out the scratches left by the 220 grit belt.

interesting
I didn't do the frog on this rehab. I know I changed and picked up doing more and more steps on rehabs the more planes I did. I am on the fence about stripping this and painting it. I have lots of time to work on it so no hurry on pulling the trigger on it. I will at least do the frog today or tomorrow.

there is a burr here
 I can feel a burr here at the very bottom edge. I sanded it with 100 grit and it went south real quick. After this I set it aside to finish up the 5 1/4 so I could shut the lights out.

back to the 5 1/4
I raised a burr on this and I was getting ready to take it out of the guide to strop it and noticed it wasn't square. The left side was high. I spent a few minutes on the 80 grit runway and got it square and raised a burr again. And I repeated the all dance steps for sharpening again including a stropping.

99.9% done
I put Autosol on the plane and I really like not only the shine it imparts but the protection it gives too. The only thing lacking on this are the barrel nuts and the stud for the knob. Bill Rittner emailed me that those parts will be shipped on monday. Maybe thursday I can road test this and set the iron.

harbor freight
Six sanding sponges for $6. I couldn't resist it at that price. I did a road test of one of them on the bookcase exterior.

blurry pic of a paint holiday
This is a pic of a paint drop that I had to remove. Once I removed it there was bare wood and I had to paint the bookcase one more time.

220 grit on the left, fine grit on the right
Just by feel, I would guess that the 'fine' is coarser than 220. Maybe 180 grit? It worked good on sanding down the exterior of the bookcase. I got dust from that which was a good sign. I didn't try it on the shelves because I didn't feel that they were dry enough and would make dust if I sanded them.

got some reading to do
It seems that this camera will do everything but pan fry eggs for breakfast in the morning. The first chapter I'll be reading is the WiFi one.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Why was popcorn banned at most theaters in the 1920's?
answer - it was considered too noisy

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