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Hand Tools


The Furniture Record - Fri, 03/03/2017 - 9:28pm


When he sees this, Roy’s heart breaks just a little…

From Telegram (6)

Da Telegram (6)

At the end the US Commission on International Trade decided that Bosch infringed two patents owned by SawStop and therefore, excluding extrajudicial economic agreements, Bosch will have to stop selling in the US its circular saws Reaxx and related spare parts included the cartridges that are needed to operate the safety system.
Bosch commented the decision saying that they now hope that the President of the Commission should not ratify it. And the President of the Commission, if I have not misunderstood it, is no other than Donald Trump himself. Yes exactly that Donald Trump that is a lot protectionist and has already flamed with Angela Merkel.

Alla fine la US Commission on International Trade ha deciso che la Bosch ha infranto due brevetti di proprietà della Sawstop e quindi, al netto di accordi economici extragiudiziari, la Bosch dovrà smettere di vendere negli Stati Uniti le sue seghe circolari Reaxx e le relative parti di ricambio incluse le cartuccie che sono necessarie per far funzionare il sistema di sicurezza.
La Bosch ha commentato la decisione dicendo che adesso spera che il Presidente della Commissione non la ratifichi. E il Presidente della commissione, se non ho capito male, è nientepopodimeno che Donald Trump in persona. Sì esatto quel Donald Trump che è molto protezionista e che ha già flammato con Angela Merkel.

Categories: Hand Tools

From Telegram (5)

Da Telegram (5)

Colonel Mark Harrell, owner of Bad Axe Tool Works, has loaded online all the articles he wrote for Fine Woodworking and Furniture & Cabinetmaking magazines.

Il Colonnello Mark Harrell, proprietario di Bad Axe Tool Works, ha messo online tutti gli articoli che ha scritto per le riviste Fine Woodworking e Furniture & Cabinetmaking.

Categories: Hand Tools

From Telegram (4)

Da Telegram (4)

A nice infographic, drawed by Kate McMillan, about how to build a traditional north-european wooden plane.

Una bella infografica, disegnata da Kate McMillan, su come costruire una tradizionale pialla di legno in stile nord-europeo.

Categories: Hand Tools

Catching Up: The Winter

Peter Galbert - Chair Notes - Fri, 03/03/2017 - 5:12am
This summer will be a bit subdued as far as travels go, which is going to be lovely for me after the fall and winter of action. After returning from Purchase, I immediately launched into teaching a 22 person class in the Cabinet Program at North Bennet Street. I spent the better part of January working with the students there.

Here is the chair that we made. It's a scaled up version of my kid's hoopback (which is one of my personal favorites to have around the house). I made this version larger to better serve the students at the school as their bench chair. I think it's very cool that they get to make their own shop furniture. Scaling it up posed the usual challenges of adjusting the rake and splay of the legs so that the chair doesn't take up too much floor space, which is especially important in the tight spaces of the school.

As the class was winding down, I went down to Colonial Williamsburg to present, along with the outstanding Don Williams and the folks from the Cabinet and Jointers shop, on chairs...of course.

 The auditorium at the museum is first class with two cameras and projection to really get up close. Here Kaare is giving me a "hand" pumping the treadle lathe. Frankly, it was a bit much for me to turn, pump and talk! I got lots of help after wearing out Kaare from the jointers apprentices.

photo by Tom McKenna
For the presentation, I thought it would be fun to work out a new continuous arm and Kaare Loftheim, master cabinetmaker, agreed. Here is the chair that I made, based on a few photos in books and online. As usual, I learned some fun things about design and got to finally turn some Rhode Island balusters!
 Here is the complete chair and the one that I demonstrated
 The seat shape and the legs were a lot of fun.

 Plus I took a little more time with the distressing, placing a thin coat of shellac inbetween the undercoat and top coat of dark green. I was very pleased with the results.

 The swelling on the lower section gives ample material for the joinery, I'm not sure how much that played into the design thinking at the time, but it was apparent to me. The lower portion takes on much more of an important role in the look of the leg, which gives a nice balance. The image below is not good for proportions because of my phone lens, but you get the idea.

It was a great trip and an honor to be invited. If you ever get the chance to attend, I highly recommend it.
And here is your Georgie update! She is thriving and turning out to be the easiest dog I've ever had. Playful and loving but extremely calm on her own. She is now acclimated to all the shop noises and all my hustling about. When it gets to be too much, she just retires to her crate for a nap! We are still working on new experiences. The first time she saw the television she freaked, but now she sits calmly while it's on, I don't think that she had ever heard a voice come from a box.

I know it's gratuitous, but I"m smitten
Lil would approve of her technique
The truck is becoming a safe space, this is their first ride together

Categories: Hand Tools

Shop Update LIVE 3/2/17: Hand Cut Tapers

The Renaissance Woodworker - Fri, 03/03/2017 - 5:00am

Pay Attention to Your Lines, and Plane to Them

The focus of this Live session is cutting tapers in a leg by hand. The original question comes from Chuck who will be making tapered octagonal legs and wants to get the 4 sided taper first. Basically you lay out the taper and plane to your lines. I like pencil lines over knife lines but either method will work. I do all the heavy lifting with the Fore plane and get almost right on my lines, then flatten and refine the taper with my jointer plane. But a Jack plane would work just as well.

Using the Jack Plane as the Only Plane

Then I get into a question from Ed about how to use his Jack plane as the single plane to go from a rough sawn board to a finish ready surface. I did a live session on this very topic for my Hand Tool School Apprentices so I have edited that session a bit and released the video as a stand alone product that can be purchase over on the school site (or by clicking the Jack plane image.

Jack plane lesson

More Stuff from this Live Session

Lots of people showed up in the chat room and asked a lot of questions! Sorry I didn’t get to them all but maybe some of the below links will help:

  • Restore a Fore Plane from a Rusty Piece of Junk
  • The Resaw Frame Saw in Action
  • Making the Center Scribe

There were also some questions about edge jointing and squaring edges but I’m going to focus on that topic for next month’s live Shop Update on April 6th. So add it to your calendar, or join my email list and I’ll be sure to send out a reminder for the event a few days prior.

Categories: Hand Tools

Assembly of a Veritas tongue and plane

Journeyman's Journal - Fri, 03/03/2017 - 4:56am

This is a short video on how to convert the Veritas plow plane using their accessories into a tongue and groove plane. Having said that my preference would go to the LN version for it’s ease of use and accuracy right out of the box however, you have the benefit of various blade widths with the Veritas version. Unless you know you will always work with either 3/4 or 1/2″ then I would recommend LN no 48 or 49 over Veritas for the above reason.

Categories: Hand Tools

tequila box done and a rabbet plane.......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 03/03/2017 - 12:52am
The tequila box is done but it won't be shipping until next week. I put one coat of my new finish on it and it will need one more. Since the post office will be closed by the time I get home from OT on saturday, it'll be shipped out next week sometime.

In the interim, winter has come back to my part of the universe. We have had nice weather with temps in the 50's and 60's for over a week. Saturday is forecasted to have wind chills of 5-10 degrees F (about -13°C). Tonight the temp is going to dip down into the low 20's. This morning when I went to work the temp was 55°F (12°C). That is a quite a swing in one day.

whacked out the thumb grab first
This gouge is getting dull in spite of the bevel looking so shiny. I didn't want to stop to do that so I stropped it. I stuck in the vise and ran the strop over the bevel. It worked and I didn't have any problems making this. Unfortunately, the stropping is a stop gap measure and I will have sharpen this.

planed the 1/4 astragals
The rabbets were deep enough that they didn't limit my planing of these. After I got them done I think I should have made the rabbets narrower.

first coat
I did a quick sanding of the box, dusted it off, and applied the first coat of finish. I like this finish and the slight color it gave the box. It can see a difference between the raw wood and this, especially on the end grain. Tomorrow I'll put on the second coat and brand it.  I'll box it up for shipping this weekend.

making a rabbet
Got a practice board, a marking gauge, and 1 1/4 wooden skew rabbet plane. Hand and eye coordination helps too.

knife a line
This line is the width of the rabbet.

use the point of the iron
You put the tip of the iron in the knife line you just made. The knife line will guide the iron from end to end with help from you.

start with the plane tilted
 Go slowly and keep the iron going in the knife line. It is easier to do than this looks. I started with the plane tilted about 45°.

of course I went off the knife line
I took my eye off of the plane for a second and this happened. The first couple of runs down the knife line you have to pay attention to what you are doing.

I had a small vee started and now I don't have to be as nutso watching to ensure that the plane is going the way I want it to.

wall established
Now as you progress from end to end you can start moving the plane to vertical. It will track down in the vee and plane the rabbet.

just about 90° to board here
big ass escapement hole
But little wimpy shavings coming out of it but that is due to the rabbet size.

not the best board to be planing a rabbet in
This board is knotty from end to end, with a lot of reversing grain. I got teat almost end to end.

except for the LV rabbet plane
I tend to veer inboard with fenceless rabbet planes. More so with this wooden one than with the 10 1/2 and not at all with the Lee Valley rabbet plane. The outboard edge is ragged out but the shoulder is fairly clean. It is step free and sharply defined right into the corner.

the lead in end
I didn't mark a dept for this and I should have. This is encouraging for me. I have a square shoulder and a reasonably flat rabbet on this end.

exit end
Not so good on this end. Not only am I sloping outboard, my shoulder is off square too.

went in the wrong direction
Got the shoulder squared up but I fixed the sloped rabbet by going in the wrong direction. Thank you again, my spatial ability.

Squared off but I now have a rabbet that is sloped down on this end .

I have been looking for a smaller wooden rabbet plane about 5/8" to 7/8" wide. It doesn't matter to me if it is skewed or not but I'm not having any luck. Most of the ones I seen are 1" and above. I'll find one eventually.

Between the wooden rabbet plane and the 10 1/2, I prefer the 10 1/2. I don't have the problems with the 10 1/2 that I do with the wooden one (as bad). Except with both, I do veer off on the exit end of the cut. I could probably even the score if I practiced more with the wooden one. That is why I want a smaller one.

I had put off trying to use planes like this because I thought I would never be able to master their use. They don't hold any secrets from me anymore and it is like any other handtool I've encountered, all it takes is practice. I learned just as much from my mistakes as I did getting good results.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first female athlete to appear in Wheaties "Breakfast of Champions" TV commercial?
answer - Mary Lou Retton in 1984

George, Anne and an Impostor.

The Furniture Record - Thu, 03/02/2017 - 10:33pm

Yet more interesting(?) things from a recent auction.

There were three very different low boys at the auction a few weeks back. It is unusual to have that many low boys at one auction. They are as follows:

George II Inlaid Low Boy


This lot has sold for $260.

Description:  18th century, oak, pine secondary, top with banded veneer bordered edge, single long drawer above three side by side short drawers, shaped skirt, on cabriole legs with ball and claw feet.

Size:  29 x 31.5 x 18.5 in.

English Queen Anne Low Boy


This lot has sold for $280.

Description:   18th century, oak and elm, pine secondary, upper long drawer above three side by side short drawers, boldly scrolled skirt, cabriole legs with pad feet.

Size:  28.75 x 30 x 19.5 in.

Henry Ford Museum Reproduction Low Boy
The Impostor


This lot has sold for $260.

Description:   Colonial Manufacturing Co., with label and tag to interior of drawer, “Number 326 Mahogany Savery Low Boy”, upper long drawer above three side by side drawers, central with shell carving, fluted canted quarter columns, on cabriole legs with shell carved knee on ball and claw feet.

Size:  30 x 36 x 20.5 in.

I will mostly ignore the impostor for this blog. It has machine cut dovetails, believe it or not. The only interesting thing about it is the carved shell on the center drawer:


Not necessarily entirely hand-carved.

We will now compare parts of the two remaining low boys starting with the aprons and some drawer area details:


George II


Queen Anne

Some carcass detail:


More George with his banding.


More Queen Anne with beaded drawers.

All low boys have legs:


Queen Anne has a cabriole leg with a pad foot.


The leg terminates with a tenon into the carcass.


George favors the ball and claw foot.

The cabriole leg continues up:


and becomes an integral part of the frame and panel construction.


George II has proper dovetailed drawers. Nails optional.


The Queen has only nails and no tails.

And edge treatments:


George has a profiled top with banding.


The Queen has a two tiered top with applied molding.

There was actually a fourth low boy at the auction:

Edwardian Inlaid Low Boy


This lot has sold for $500

Description:  In the Queen Anne taste, circa 1900, mahogany, mahogany veneer, rectangular top with herringbone and sawtooth inlays, upper long drawer above a central hinged cabinet door flanked by two small drawers, shaped skirt, tall tapered legs with pad feet.

Size:  33 x 36 x 23 in.

And a fifth one at this weeks auction:


This item to be sold on 3/4/2017.

Description:  Circa 1760, white pine secondary, top with molded edge, upper long lipped drawer above three side by side lipped drawers, shaped skirt with drop finials, raised on tall cabriole legs with pad feet.

Size:  32 x 35 x 21.5 in.

I will cover these later.

Black Walnut (Juglans nigra)

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Thu, 03/02/2017 - 5:47pm

Fig. 2-7. Black Walnut (Juglans nigra) 60′ – 100′ (18-30 m) tall

This is an excerpt from “With the Grain: A Craftsman’s Guide to Understanding Wood” by Christian Becksvoort. 


The walnut family also includes butternut and the hickories. Juglans means nut of Jupiter, nigra, or black, refers to the dark wood. Its natural range is from New England through southern Ontario to South Dakota, south to Texas, and east to northern Florida. Walnuts grow best in the deep rich soils of river valleys and bottom lands, where they reach a height of 60′-100′ (18-30 m). The tree generally has an open crown with thick, sturdy branches. Walnut leaves are compound, 1′-2′ (30-60 cm) long, with 13-23 lance-shaped leaflets. Leaves grow alternately on thick, stubby twigs. When cut, the twigs reveal a light brown pith, about the thickness of a pencil lead. Overall, the light green foliage is scant, giving the tree an airy appearance. Early in the fall the leaves turn yellow and drop, leaving a distinctive 3-lobed, notched, leaf scar. The nut matures at about the same time, enclosed in a thick, green, pulpy husk about the size of a billiard ball. The deeply grooved black nut is very thick and hard, but well worth the effort of extracting the meat. The dark brown bark grows in broken, crossed ridges.


Black walnut is as close to a perfect cabinet wood as can be found in North America. The light sapwood, 10-20 rings wide, is often steamed commercially to make it blend with the heartwood, which is a medium chocolate to purplish-brown. The wood is medium hard (with a density of 38 lb/ft³ or .61 g/cc at 12 percent MC), strong and works well with both hand and power tools. Classified as semi-ring-porous the vessels (containing tyloses) are large enough to be seen on any surface. Walnut is very decay-resistant, and was once used for railroad ties. Many early barns, houses and outbuildings in the Appalachians and the Midwest were constructed with walnut frames. Its color, beauty and workability make it a prime cabinet wood. Gunsmiths use it for stocks because it moves very little once dried. Top-quality veneer logs will sell for thousands of dollars and will panel miles of executive offices.

Meghan Bates

Filed under: Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

The One-stop Place for Saw Maintenance

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Thu, 03/02/2017 - 3:52pm

When I was learning to sharpen and set saws in the 1990s, I was desperate for information. All I had was one modern book, a somewhat helpful video and the attempts I had made on my bargain basement saws. It was a slog. While today there is a lot more information available on saws and saw sharpening, much of it is conflicting and more complex than necessary. Sharpening a saw […]

The post The One-stop Place for Saw Maintenance appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

Planter Box Build Part 8

Journeyman's Journal - Thu, 03/02/2017 - 2:09pm

There’s one more episode left to edit, I know I’ve been slack lately but not without reason.  I’ve been very productive in the shop with tool making, I’ve designed a small router plane to help with the build of the moulding planes.  While I’m still waiting for steel to arrive I’ve been catching up on a lot of passed work I’ve missed.

I like making video and sharing my work with you don’t get me wrong but it does consume a lot of time and that’s something I don’t have the luxury of.  So I need to work out and plan better so I can continue sharing my builds with you.

I have received a lot of positive comments about the blog and I thank you for it and yes I do intend to continue blogging so as long you to continue to have me but, I only have a day and half off work.  So trying to figure out how to use that little time productively and sharing it with you is a real challenge.

Categories: Hand Tools

Craftsman Rocker Class

Heritage School of Woodworking Blog - Thu, 03/02/2017 - 9:43am

This week we have 7 people each building their own rocking chair! So we are starting with this (a stack of wood). And hopefully by the end of the week, each student will have this (a finished rocking chair).  We’ve cut the mortise and tenons, arch on the front rail, tenons for the arm posts […]

The post Craftsman Rocker Class appeared first on Heritage School of Woodworking Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

The Golden Age Redux

The Barn on White Run - Thu, 03/02/2017 - 5:04am

I have long argued that we are living in two simultaneous Golden Ages, that of furniture making and that of tool making.  Never before in human history has a culture produced more superb furniture than we are right now, it’s just that most of the furniture is being made avocationally rather than vocationally, which is not to disregard the exquisite furniture being made by people who do it for a living.  It’s just that there are so many more “makers driven by passion” than those driven by income, a ratio I would  conclude is far north of 100:1.

The Golden Age of Tool Making is a bit different in that the purveyors for those particular narcotics in the marketplace are simultaneously driven by both passion and income.  Consider the upcoming Handworks event, where scores of professional woodworking tool makers will interact with thousands of woodworkers and tool aficionados, deep in the heart of the Iowa cornfields.  I am honored to count many of these toolmakers among my friends and acquaintances.

I am sure there are cranky toolmakers working under the nostrum of secrecy, but thus far I have yet to run into any of them.  My experience is that they are delighted that you are interested, and inevitably they will fill you with more information than you can digest at any one time.  They must understand this, as most of them have web pages that are archives of definitive and dispositive documents telling you almost everything you ever wanted to know about whatever it is that they make or do.  I keep several dozen of their sites bookmarked and visit them as often as I allow myself, knowing full well that the first click can result in an entire evening lost in pursuit of knowing more.

Occasionally one strikes my fancy or is so perfectly timed to a particular need that I find myself talking to myself in celebration.  Recently I have been doing some things with saws, some of which may eventually leak out into this blog, but most of which has to do with tuning up the saws that I already have.  With that in mind I was delighted to see a new (to me at least) offering over at Bad Axe on the care and feeding of  vintage back saws.  I am currently awaiting the fullness of time to get to a couple (four?  five?) of them hanging on my wall, and this page will no doubt serve as a valued resource once I get to that point.

In the service of full disclosure I should say that I have two Bad Axe back saws that I purchased from them, and have communicated with Mark Harrell fairly extensively on my two 4-foot late-18th Century frame saws, tools I use surprisingly often.  Someday I might show up on Mark’s doorstep with them in hand, and ask for a sharpening refresher tutorial.

tequila box.......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 03/02/2017 - 12:37am
I didn't oversleep today and got up at my normal time at oh dark 30. Still can't believe yesterday that I one, I overslept, and two, did it for so long. In twenty years in the Navy I was late once very early in my career. An old Master Chief chewed on my ass so hard and so long, I didn't have to use toilet paper for 6 months. To this day, I am always early much to the consternation of my wife. And by early I mean if I have an appointment on Monday at 0800, I'm there sunday night at 2330, waiting. Well maybe I exaggerate a bit but I am always early.

$4 brush
I bought a wooden handled, middle of the road cost brush for painting the gallery spindles. I had one of these but my wife found out where I keep my brushes and  borrowed it. She became amnesiac when I asked her about it.

no problem getting behind the spindles with paint
The carcass of the paper towel holder is done. The rod not being done is stopping this from being complete. I keep forgetting that is hanging waiting to be worked on. I need to get one more coat of paint on it and a couple of coats of poly after that. I forgot it again tonight and only thought of it when I saw it as I was shutting the shop lights off. Maybe tomorrow.

out of the clamps
Double, triple checking that the bottle still fits in the box.

rabbets for the lid are next
The lid is about a 1/16 strong over in the width. I made the rabbets first and then planed the width to fit.

much better results
No hump in the middle, and I'm pretty flat and straight end to end. I wasn't getting these results with the LV rabbet plane. I think the 10 1/2 being a bench plane is helping a lot here.

the exit end
I usually slope downwards on this but I am looking pretty good, It is square and close to parallel to the lay out line.

the lead in
This looks pretty good too. I am a frog hair or two higher here then the other end but I'll take this. It is square, parallel to the lay out line, not sloped outboard nor sloped down at the lead in.

planing the shoulders
I just left a hint of the pencil line on the rabbet and planed it off completely on the shoulder.

if need be
I planed both shoulders going from right to left. If need be I could have reset the iron in the plane so I planed from left to right. Can't do that with the LV rabbet plane.

thin web at the bottom of the groove
I have been thinking of this for a while and I decided to plane a shallow rabbet on the bottom of the lid. This is only about a 32nd so I should be able to do it in a couple of strokes. I am shooting for getting the width of the rabbet to be the same as the depth of the groove.

wasn't that hard to do
 The only difficult part was when the toe of the plane went past the end I still had a couple of inches of rabbet left to plane. I was able to plane the rabbet and the pencil line from end to end.

fitting the lid is batting next
This is one aspect of making boxes that I am improving on. For the most part on previous boxes, I got the lid to fit but it was a looser fit in the width or the rabbet then I liked. Here step one is to get a snug fit of the rabbet on the left side here. The ever present step 1A is never take just one more shaving without checking the fit first.

repeat for the right side
Now that the rabbets are snug, I will concentrate on getting the width.

plane two strokes off of each side and check the fit

still too wide
This is where I usually run into trouble. I would go on trying to fit the width and ignore anything else.  I went back to shave two more strokes off of each side and checked the fit again.

fits about 1/4 of the way
I looked at everything here because if I trim the wrong part, on the rabbets or the width, I could end up with a loose, floppy fitting lid. The width looks good from the end of the box and also from the interior. The rabbets on both sides are fitting tight to the top of the grooves. All the trimming of the rabbets will done on the topside. I don't want to change the shallow fit of the bottom ones.

second trial fit
I took one shaving off of each rabbet and it advanced in another 1/2". Had a ways to go yet to get lid closed but instead of rushing it I took my time and evaluated it after each shaving and fit cycle.. Looking in the grooves I can a slight gap on the left and none on the right. I kept planing the rabbets and checking the fit.

getting there
The rabbet is still tight to the top of the groove and the gap I had in the width disappeared. I took one stroke on each edge for the width and couple off of the rabbets just on the back 1/3 of the lid. I had a gap at the front on the top rabbets.

After a bit more fiddling and planing the rabbets one last time with the bullnose plane, I got the lid closed. It's snug and hard to pull open but I'll do the final tweaking of the fit after the lid astragals and thumb grab are done.

bit of blowout
I got some blowout when I planed the back of the lid to fit the back of the box. I was hoping to get all the work on the lid done tonight but it didn't happen. I glued the blowout so I'll have to wait to finish this.

four holes to plug
and one chip missing from a tail

not my best work
These dovetails are some of the loosest and gappiest I've done in a long time. But it is hard to kill dovetails and the box will do it's intended job of keeping the tequila safe while it is in transit.

Putting the blog to bed early and me too. I got my Hayward volume IV yesterday and I'm going to spend some quality time with it before I do the light leak test on the peepers.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was the original name of the game of softball before 1926?
answer - it was called kitten ball from 1895 to 1926

A George II Walnut Serpentine Chest – Part Five

Pegs and 'Tails - Wed, 03/01/2017 - 3:33pm
I prepared the triangular packers for the recesses in the canted corners and sawed the frets out of pre-sized 1/8″ (3.2mm) thick veneer (fig. 1). Fig. 1. Walnut packers and frets. Once the corner packers were glued in place, I … Continue reading
Categories: Hand Tools

Jewellery Box Finished

David Barron Furniture - Wed, 03/01/2017 - 10:29am

I managed to get round to finishing off the box with the mitred corners and dovetailed Dominoes.
See my first post here

The tray is a piston fit and the protruding top has been shaped to give a soft close lid.
The little brown oak stand with the shaped feet adds a bit of interest (and time).
The lid opens exactly where the board transitions from the white to the olive coloured ash, which is nice. The floating panel in the lid is some tightly rippled ash, which is not properly visible (I must get better with my camera).
A full article including all the techniques used will be appearing in Furniture and Cabinetmaking magazine later in the year.
The box will also be on display (and for sale) at the Celebration of Craftsmanship exhibition in August http://www.celebrationofcraftsmanship.com/

Categories: Hand Tools

Video: Building the Roman Workbench

The Mortise & Tenon Magazine Blog - Wed, 03/01/2017 - 7:02am
This video shows the build process for our Roman workbenches. You can subscribe to our YouTube channel for more videos.

Categories: Hand Tools

Video: Building the Roman Workbench

The Mortise & Tenon Magazine Blog - Wed, 03/01/2017 - 7:02am
This video shows the build process for our Roman workbenches. You can subscribe to our YouTube channel for more videos.

Categories: Hand Tools

Williamsburg Snapshot – Building A Table Chair

The Barn on White Run - Wed, 03/01/2017 - 5:36am

Ted Boscani’s crew from the CW Joiner’s Shop (I think at one time they were known as the housewrights) were the final in-house presenters as they had a Four Ring Circus in operation making a “table chair.”  I think in some circles this piece is known as “a monk’s chair.”

While Ted was demonstrating some of the joinery from the underside of the flip-top, most particularly the cutting of the sliding dovetail into which the hinging braces would be inserted, the apprentices were all working on the same bench on the opposite side of the stage fabricating the elements that were assembled into the chair’s base.  Their congenial sharing of a bench tweaked my self-indulgence of working on, in a typical day, anywhere from 6-8 different work benches in my own space.  I admit, I suffer under an embarrassment of riches.

Finally, after 90 very engaging and entertaining minutes, the table was assembled.  While I have my doubts about the interests and abilities of most of those in attendance to fabricate any of the chairs from earlier demonstrations, I can definitely see this fitting into the ken of just about everyone there.


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