Hand Tool Headlines

The Woodworking Blogs Aggregator

With apologies, Norse Woodsmith articles and blog entries are not available online pending some work on the website. The feeds from other sites are all still available.  Also, there may be some graphic issues while I migrate the site to a new host, please bear with me.  Thanks!

Be sure to visit the Hand Tool Headlines section - scores of my favorite woodworking blogs in one place.

Hand Tools

Green Movement

Pegs and Tails - Thu, 05/09/2024 - 7:01pm
It looks like that Orson Cart has been playing with his caravan again. Jack Plane
Categories: Hand Tools

Green Movement

Pegs and 'Tails - Thu, 05/09/2024 - 7:01pm
It looks like that Orson Cart has been playing with his caravan again. Jack Plane
Categories: Hand Tools

How to Name Stamp a Wood Plane

Wood and Shop - Thu, 05/09/2024 - 8:56am
How to Name Stamp a Wood Plane Bill Anderson shows the method for stamping a maker's mark on a traditional wooden handplane   By Joshua Farnsworth  |  Published 09 May, 2024 How to Name Stamp a Wood Plane   By Joshua


The Barn on White Run - Thu, 05/09/2024 - 6:56am

When I first installed the hydro turbine fifteen (!) years ago I cobbled together a temporary pyramidal doghouse cover from XPS to keep the direct weather off of it until I got the permanent housing cover made.  Over the years my incentive for making the new one was low as the old cover lasted much longer than expected. This past winter was the final straw as the old “temporary” cover started coming apart, so I commenced to begin the new, final one.  I took advantage of a heavy dew the other day, making me wait for my daily dose of mowing, to finally assemble the new cover.

I began some time ago with making a laminated arch using exterior grade adhesive and copious crown staples.  I then screwed on a section of Ondura corrugated asphalt panel roofing for the, well, roof.  The unit is light and stiff due to the corrugated arched construction.  Once installed I recognized an unintended benefit.  The corrugation makes it stiff, yes, but also acts as a sound diffuser on the underside reducing the sound to almost zero once I get more than a few feet away.

If the “temporary” cover using scrap materials lasted fifteen years, I can only imagine how long this one will be doing its job.

Now, back to mowing.

Categories: Hand Tools

Steve Albini, iconoclastic rock musician and engineer, dies at 61 →

Giant Cypress - Thu, 05/09/2024 - 4:48am

Steve Albini, iconoclastic rock musician and engineer, dies at 61

Lars Gotrich:

As a performer, [Steve Albini] fronted Shellac and Big Black, two indie-rock bands that pushed punk and noise past absurd and abrasive limits. Albini famously did not like to be called a “producer,” but he worked on — by his own estimate — “a couple thousand” records as a recording engineer, including classics like the Pixies‘ Surfer RosaNirvana's In Utero and PJ Harvey's Rid of Me.

I can’t say I’ve listened to anywhere close to a couple thousand Steve Albini records, but I’ve listened to and loved a ton of them. This one may be my favorite.

I'm an idiot.......(confirmed).......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 05/09/2024 - 3:23am

 Last month a reader of my blog made me a couple of irons for my plow plane. That didn't turn out so well. It wasn't through the fault of Craig but me not having a grasp on the 'el panorama' (the big picture). I had the stock dropped shipped to him from McMaster-Carr and that went off without a hiccup. The idiot part of it? I ordered screws and etc from McMaster for the toy chest and they were dropped shipped to Craig. It didn't occur to me to check the ship to address from McMaster. I ass - u - me that it would be mine. So I'll be dead in the water for a couple of more days and out the cost of priority shipping from Craig to me. Sigh.

I bought another pair of lid stays from Lee Valley that were supposed to come today but aren't. For the about the umpteenth time UPS has revised the delivery date at the last moment. Now I am supposed to get the LV order tomorrow by 1900. I'll either get it or receive another revised delivery date. The odds are.....

 Lowes run

Left for Lowes at 0705 to get a quarter sheet of 1/4" plywood for the miniature chest bottom and two pine boards for the lid. Bought the same plywood from Pinewood that I got in 1/2" thickness for the toy chest. There really isn't a need to put 1/2" plywood on the bottom of the miniature chest. 1/4" will suffice for it.

 if I had pulled down my zipper

If my head wasn't buried in my arse I could have put a check mark in the done column with this today.

 no surprises so far

Clamps are coming off easy and there is no relaxing or movement from the chest. That is always a good sign to see.

 blue tape sucks for this

Blue tape wasn't up to holding clamping pads where you need them. Too often it gives way and the fall off just as you are attempting to tighten the clamp on them. This time I used superglue and accelerator to hold the pads in place.


Wasn't expecting to see this because the clamp has a plastic cover over the clamping heads. The tails are proud so maybe I'll be able to plane/sand this me-steak away.

 no problems

Out of the 14 pads I glued on only two didn't pop off with one strike of the chisel and mallet. Super glue as zero tolerance for an abrupt whack and will easily give up its bond immediately. Even the two stubborn ones cleaned up effortlessly with the plane and RO sander.

not a two board glue up

I went through two piles of the 1x12s at Lowes. I only found 3 of them that were clear or only had one knot per board. Of the 3 I picked the two flatest ones but they were still cupped a bit. To alleviate that I sawed the two boards into 3 pieces each. This is the best I could come up with a grain/color match.

 30 minutes

I planed the glue joints, did a dry fit, planed some more, and glued the panel up.

 bottom screwed on

I have about a 16th strong on all four edges to plane flush. Like the bigger toy/blanket chest I just screwed the bottom on to the chest.

 getting dull

The iron in this was struggling to flush the plywood to the chest. I got it done and I'll have to hone the iron in this plane. It is on the "I'll forget to-do-it-list".

 layout for the base

I'm checking the base to ensure that it isn't snug/not fitting the chest. I laid it out a 1/8" longer in both directions. 

 off the saw

I had to trim one pin because it was too snug and I didn't want to chance splitting it.

 loose slip fit

There are a couple of frog hairs of space 360 which is ok with me. I plan on putting a cove molding on the base to hide it.

 glued and cooking

After I glued the pins/tails, I glued and nailed the bearers in on the inside.

double triple checking

Making sure that nothing changed in the relationship between the base and the chest.

 five hours later

 This is going to be the up face of the lid. The joints are pretty good in that they are even pretty much across the face.

 like night and day

You would think the opposite face joints would be similar to the other but they aren't. They are proud on a couple of boards a strong 32nd.

started with the 5 1/2

Used this first to knock down the bulk of unevenness between the boards. The biggest offenders were the two outside boards.

quick check

I was surprised that the lid didn't rock or see saw at all when I put it on the chest. A good sign that the lid is flat and straight.

 what a work out

I had forgotten what  beast and how hard it is to keep this moving across the boards. I hadn't forgotten how to flatten with it and when I was done I was spent and had to take a breather. I first went across the grain and then with the grain. I will have to plane this the #3 to smooth it and totally remove the sanding scratches.

 sizing the lid

Initially I went for a 1" overhang on the sides and 3/4" on the front. Those are the overhangs I used on the toy/blanket chest.

 still improving

I am getting better at squaring end grain edges. I absolutely love the LV bevel up jack for end grain work.

 change 2 & 3

I didn't like the 3/4" overhang on the front. It looked too large to my eye so I knocked it back to a 1/2". After seeing that I didn't like the 1" on the sides. Changed them to match the 1/2" on the front.

I was shooting for the goal of just needing to put a lid stay and hinges on this chest to call it done. I came close but no cigar. Tomorrow I'll put the back stop thing on the chest lid. Which will give the lid overnight to do any stupid wood tricks it might have up its sleeve. Saw out the cutout on the base and screw it to the bottom of the chest. The finale will be making some cove moldings to go on the top of the base.

 over time

Didn't realize that it was past 1500. I got into a rhythm and lost track of time. Everything was falling into step and without any oops to delay things. I felt a little tired but it was a good tired. I had accomplished more today than I expected to. 

I had gone to lunch with my wife and I ate like a condemned man. I had fish 'n chips, pickles, two rolls, and my wife's left over french fires and patty melt. Hoping that this doesn't bite me on the arse and draw blood on sunday's weigh in.

 accidental woodworker

Advertising 101

Tools For Working Wood - Wed, 05/08/2024 - 4:00am
Advertising 101  1

Should we take some cues from this guy? I admit I took a picture of his sign (above) - he plastered the neighborhood - and I wasnt too shocked that he got coverage on CNN when the event happened. I dont know if he kept his mask on; perhaps he didnt want to be revealed as the Marketing Senior VP at a large corporation. He does know how to grab attention (and snacks).

I might like to spend most of my time designing tools, organizing the manufacture or tools and researching the history of tools, but I understand that unless we attract customers to buy tools, we don't eat.

Ultimately a sale depends on having the right product with a winning combo of price and performance. It helps to be a company that people want to deal with. But as our cheese ball fellow shows: getting new customers in the door is an essential skill.

Almost all of our architectural cabinet--maker customers rely on a small network of architects and contractors for all of their work. These are networks that take years to build. For a new person entering the market, it takes a while to get enough of a reputation to be included in a bid list.

Furniture makers have a far more complicated problem. You are not just selling a chair or a table, you are selling your take on how these items should look and function. And of course there are only a very small number of people who can afford bespoke furniture in the first place.

The International Contemporary Furniture Fair (ICFF), which describes itself as North Americas leading platform for contemporary furnishing design will be held next week. Furniture makers and other designers from around the world show off their wares; it's comparatively an expensive show at which to exhibit at but people do it. I do not know how effective the show is in a practical sense. The point of the show is that decorators come see your stuff and eventually have you make stuff for their customers. It is not an end user retail show. When I have gone in past years I have routinely seen a bunch of our customers exhibiting. I just don't know if after six months or so they feel it was worth it - although many have told me they have met a lot of interesting people.

But this is the problem for everyone. How do you find and inform potential customers? Pretty much everyone I know has a website and most people either have an Instagram account or feel guilty that they dont - but with varying success. The plus of social media is at its simplest it is free, and but requires a lot of hands-on labor. A trade show like the ICFF is expensive in actual cash flow but will expose you in a hands-on way to a very targeted, already motivated audience of buyers.

Unfortunately there arent too many shortcuts. Folks know that it isnt enough to create a social media account - they must constantly feed it, ideally with a consistent supply of charmingly crafted and engaging videos, something that even our customers with filmmaking experience balk at doing. But at least I can recommend a few classic books that helped me understand marketing - and are also enjoyable to read.

The first is "The Book of Gossage, by Howard Luck Gossage, aka the Socrates of San Francisco, a compilation that includes "Is there any hope for advertising?" Gossage was a wizard of an ad copywriter in the Mad Men era, who understood that you had to engage the customer. And the customer wasn't stupid, but rather just needed to be engaged. Engaged meant being presented with interesting and amusing ideas, not being swindled. I think Gossages wordy and plot driven approach is very appropriate to the modern age of internet marketing.

To address the visual side of things, Forget All the Rules You Ever Learned About Graphic Design: Including the Ones in This Book, by Bob Gill. Gill was not only a designer, copywriter, design professor and design agency founder, he was an impresario who (for better or worse) brought us Beatlemania. As his NY Times obituary described him, Gill was an irreverent graphic designer who helped transform his profession from its decorative roots into a business of ideas. Forget All the Rules definitely encourages you to distill your message.

The third book is "How I Raised Myself from Failure to Success in Selling " by Frank Bettger. Bettger was a washed-up baseball player in his early twenties who needed another livelihood and found it in sales. This is a book, published in 1949 and still in print, whose hardcover version had a groovy look and a blurb from Dale Carnegie, Bettgers mentor. (The paperback version, not so much.) The book is full of insights about high-end personal sales. If your plan is to close the deal - the step after successful marketing gives you the opportunity to do so - its helpful to understand sales as well.

Even big names understand the importance of getting the word out in a cost-effective way. Last year Erykah Badu advertised her shows with billboards plastered across the city. I'm not particularly a fan but wow - did that poster grab my attention.

Advertising 101  2
By the way, marketing does not need to be original to be effective. Our cheese ball friend got his message out with a compelling easy to spot sign plastered on a parking permit machine. Great eye-catching graphics are important. But in NYC, signs are everywhere. Cheese Ball was competing with (among other things) a far less effective sign promoting an EP stuck a few feet away on a mailbox.

Advertising 101  3

In case you are curious: while the cheese ball guy did it all himself, there are companies in NYC that would be happy to paste up your poster everywhere. The rules are, you can put stuff up on construction sites covered in plywood barriers but not over real stuff that isn't temporary.

And if youre in the NY area, I thoroughly recommend a visit to the Poster House Museum. Each exhibit is a master class in art and design, and in distilling a marketing objective.

A random display of billboards plastering a SoHo construction siteA random display of billboards plastering a SoHo construction site

10 degrees higher........

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 05/08/2024 - 3:12am

 The mercury was forecasted to be a high of 74F (23C) today. It got pushed up a wee but further to 84F (29C). It wasn't that warm when I went on my post lunch stroll, it was only 72F. If it had been any higher I wouldn't have gone on walk about. I did that last summer when the temp was 87F (31C) and I ended up in the ER for 6 hours. I will have to do my strolls this summer in the AM when it isn't as hot and humid yet.

 CPAP supplies

This is what I'll get every six months. I got it early because my nasal hose ripped on me. I'll have to find a hole to stick these in and I think I found it already. I'm going to make a miniature blanket chest to keep them in. I can't do anything on the toy/blanket chest so I'll knock this one out.

 it might be enough

I have two 1x12x5' boards left. Depending upon how big I make this I might get it all from these two.

no offers

I put these up on Saw Mill Creek and I got a lot of looks (over 200) but no nibbles. I thought the #5s would sell quick but I was wrong. I'll stick them in the boneyard where they'll gather dust till I figure out what to do with them.

 not going to bother

The 4 woodies and the #3 & #4 metal planes I am not even going to try to sell on the Creek. I think all the rehabbing I did on them plus what I paid for them, priced them out of the reach or desire of someone wanting them.

 small cove molding

Find these in the boneyard when I put the planes in there. It is a perfect fit for the base of the chest.

 the gap on the right

There is almost zero gap on the front and what is on the right isn't glaring. I could live with it but the molding will hide it. Besides I like the look of the cove molding as it transits into the chamfer on the base.

room for the cove molding

Because the chest isn't square the gap isn't uniform. This front corner is open and the back corner is tight. Overall I don't hate it but paint won't fill the gaps but the moldings will cover it.


I made the long sides 25" and the short ends, 15". I like the side proportions being 3/5 which dictated the measurements. The stock left over from this won't be enough to get the lid out of. I'll have to make a Lowes run to get some pine for the lid and plywood for the bottom of the chest.

 ready to make sawdust

Tails were laid out and secured in the vise for sawing them. I used the dividers to layout 5 tails to keep with the multiple of 5 for this chest.

 lunch bell was ringing

Tails chopped and cleaned up. Laid out and sawed the pins. After the stroll I chopped the pins and did a dry fit. Fingers crossed here that I'll get it glued and cooking before 1500.

 couldn't resist

Before I went topside to fill the pie hole I sawed one miter to check the corner fit. The molding is about 5 frog hairs from the angle of the chamfer. If it were any closer I would have planed or sawed a wee bit off the front edge of the molding.

PM session

Tried something new for me with both the tails and pins. I usually chop the tails on one side and then the other. The same dance steps for the pin boards. With the big chest and this one I ganged the tail and pin boards on top of each other and chopped them one after the other. IMO it is much quicker doing it this way vice individually.


I dropped the pin board twice. I got a ding here and on the other diagonal corner. Luckily for me both of the dings were on the same edge. This was the top but it is now the bottom. After the base is installed this and the other boo boos won't be seen.

 needed some help

The tails wouldn't fully seat on either end. There was a slight cup in both ends that were throwing a hissy fit. I had a devil of a time squaring it up and I settled for a strong 16th off on the diagonals. I clamped the 3 tails in the middle and I got two good results with that. The first was pulling the middle flat which also helped with seating the top and bottom tails. The second was it improved the squareness of the carcass. The diagonals after the clamps went on improved to less than 16th off on the diagonals.

base stock

Used one leftover board from the toy/blanket chest (short ends) and the miniature chest (long sides) to get the base. The base height isn't a multiple of 5 - I sawed to width that looked good to my eye - 3 1/8".

 panel raiser

It is clearly stamped NE Toolworks, Groton Ct. I was stationed at the Groton submarine base for almost 17 years and I don't recall it all. I looked at a Leon Robbins plane on Jim Bode's site and it looks similar to this. The only difference I noted was the Leon plane had a strike button on the toe and this plane doesn't have one. Any reader heard of NE Toolworks or have a history about it?

Watched the first 4 episodes of Spiral, season 4 yesterday. I had my fingers crossed because I didn't have a warm and fuzzy that the DVD player would work. I was less worried about that and more so about the old tech TV (12 years old?). No hiccups at all. The only hiccup was there isn't a pause button on the DVD player. You have to  use stop and play to resume. I should get through the next 4 episodes tonight and the next 4 tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

Branch Crook Choices

David Fisher - Carving Explorations - Tue, 05/07/2024 - 6:35pm
Another post about processing crooks. For the others, check the category menu (to the right) under “finding wood.” This time I want to show a couple decisions I made when finding a spoon in a piece of the crazy magnolia … Continue reading
Categories: Hand Tools

toy/blanket chest pt X..........

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 05/07/2024 - 3:17am

 I thought today would have been the final post but it ain't so boys and girls. The hold up was beyond my control - the screws I need for the hinges won't be here until wednesday. That is one bad thing about getting hinges that come without screws. So I'm dead in the water with the chest for now. The only thing I can do on it is put a cove/corner round molding on the base.


That stands for Read The Fxxxing Instructions. If I had read them I wouldn't have been cursing out this wood putty as crappola. It says in plain english that this putty does not harden. 

 more instruction I missed

It says again in plan english, (my native tongue) that you apply the putty and use a damp cloth to smooth it out right away. Using the instructions I had no hiccups with it this time.

 working the base

I was going to use the belt sander to clean up and smooth the base but the wife was still sleeping. Switched over to the #3 to do it. The brown nut was cooperative and no headaches planing it from both directions. 

 getting a headache

I studied these last night and this AM things were still a wee bit blurry. I am ass-u-ming that the measurements are in metric but it doesn't state that anywhere on the instruction sheet that I could find. I tried translating the measurements from decimal to metric and that did nothing for me neither. I'll be tackling the installation of this in PM session.

 lid chamfer

I had two choices for the lid detail - bullnose/round over or a chamfer. I picked the chamfer.

matching chamfer

The lid chamfer is 5/16" and the base chamfer is 1/4". I lost a 16th for the base because I still might put a molding on the top of the base.

 corners first

Before I took any end to end runs I planed the corners first. That is so when I did go end to end I wouldn't blow out the corners. I got lucky with the base as 3 of the sides I was able to plane from R to L. The last one (long side) I had to plane L to R to avoid tearing it out.


Another reason why I did a 1/4" on the base was to leave a 1/2" for the molding, if any. Whether or not I do that depends upon the size of the gap once I mate the base with the chest.

I used 2 screws to attach the base to the chest. No need for anymore than that. The chisel was used to flush 3 of the corner braces that were proud of the bottom of the base.

 ready to jump into it

I studied the instructions some more during lunch and I feel a little more comfortable with them. I have a several rules graduated in metric that I will use to install this.

 not much hardware

One nice aspect of this lid stay is that it can go on the left or right side. The metal pear shaped disc is proving to be a doozie to figure out. There are specific angles between the screws and the post at the top of it. Clueless as to how to lay them out. One of them is ~28° and the other one is ~30°.

 all 8 seasons

I am so happy that this came 3 days early. I have been nursing myself on season 5 and I watched the last episode of it last night. Now I don't have to buy any episodes from season 6 to 8. I'll go back and watch season 4 that I missed entirely and that should fill in some holes I had with season 5.

new to me toy

Can you guess what this is? I got it from Patrick Leach and it was item WP 9. He says it is an unmarked Leon Robbins fielding plane.

 sweet looking plane

I like the look of this and it is a lot lighter (and smaller) than I thought it would be. It is a laminated construction plane too with the rear handle offset from the center line of the plane.

 why I bought it

This plane fields the angle and planes a flat that fits in the groove on the stiles/rails.

it is the law

Of course I had to stop what I was doing and road test the plane as is.

 came up short

I wasn't able to plane the entire profile. This is about 1/2 of it. Each plane, wooden or metal, has its own personality and you have to make friends with it. I had even projection of the iron around the mouth but the plane wasn't making any shavings. I didn't want to work the why then so I set it aside and went back to the lid stay headache.

 about 1/2

Based on laying the iron on what I was able to produce I can see the fielded portion will be about a 1/2" or so wider.


I don't understand this plate and how to properly position it. The post at the top left is what the arm hits to stop the lid from opening beyond that. As for the angles I have a couple of clear protractors that I can use to get the two angles. I just have to extend a couple of lines out 5-6 inches more.

 not for weighing me

The width of the lid determines how much weight the lid stay can handle. The chart is for two lid stays (surprise - I missed that tidbit) and I'm using only one so I have to halve the weights in the chart to get how much weight one stay can handle. The lid with the 3 hinges weighed 7.8 pounds which is over the limit for one stay. I can't use this lid stay. I need to have a lid stay on this box because the boys will be using it. If it were a blanket chest I would put a chain stay on it.

caught a me-steak

There is an error with the instructions. It says that the center to center hold spacing on the arm retainer is 32mm. It is 16mm, the retainer is ~40mm long. Straightened that out and saw that I screwed up the lay for it big time. The retainer has to be 10.5mm away from the inside edge of the chest. I forgot to add the 1 1/16" overhang to the equation. Still debating the lid stay dilemma. Use two of these or buy a gas strut rated for my lid's dimensions and weight?  I have time because Diane isn't going to NC until the first of next month.

 table worked well

If push came to shove, I would lower this about 6-8" to make it perfect. It worked good but having it a wee bit lower would facilitate the installation of the lid stay by making it more comfortable.

 first problem to address

The iron wedge extends too far. Not sure but this could be why I wasn't able to plane the full profile.

 second problem
There is a hump on the back of the iron. This is after 7-8 strokes on the medium diamond stone. This bevel is going to have to sharpened/honed by hand too. There are four edges that need to be honed. I might do this tomorrow because I can't work on the chest.

accidental woodworker

Stain Walnut? Are You Crazy?!

Wunder Woods - Mon, 05/06/2024 - 9:13pm

The answer is, only a little. And, yes sometimes we do stain walnut and this is why (and how).

First off, for those that don’t know, walnut has a chocolatey brown heartwood that is known for its rich color and is often finished without adding color because it is pretty on its own. Sounds simple enough, it looks great, why mess with it? Well, there are four reasons to stain walnut:

  1. Color Consistency. Walnut not only has dark heartwood, but like all other woods, has a light colored ring of sapwood on the outside of the log. Depending on the cut, walnut lumber may contain streaks of nearly white sapwood. Even if the lumber does not contain sapwood, areas near the sapwood can appear much lighter in color. Walnut heartwood also varies in color from tree to tree. Some lean towards more red, some green and some purple. Staining the wood will make lumber from different trees and different areas of the same tree have the same hue and have a similar range of shade.
  2. Increased yield. If walnut is not stained, the only way to keep a piece in the dark color range is to remove all sapwood. To keep from having to trim off all of the sapwood, commercially produced walnut is steamed to darken the sapwood. Even though the steaming process makes the sapwood darker and more like the heartwood, without stain the color difference will be much more noticeable. Staining the wood will make much more of the tree usable, since both the heartwood and sapwood can all be used.
  3. Longer lasting color. Walnut is one of the few woods I know of that lightens in color as it ages. When stained the brown color will hold tight for much, much longer.
  4. It stains great. This isn’t really a reason to stain walnut, but it is worth noting. Walnut accepts all stains well. As long as the surface is sanded properly, staining is a breeze. No splotchy wood here.

When staining walnut, I like to use a mix of Special Walnut and Dark Walnut from Minwax. I feel like Special Walnut is a little too brown with most of the color coming from brown pigment and the Dark Walnut is a bit too black with most of the color coming from black dye. But, when mixed together, they are the perfect blend of color and penetration, which makes the walnut color more consistent and keeps the wood looking like walnut without hiding the grain.

We stain walnut commonly in applications with plywood, like commercial millwork, to provide consistency to the job over multiple products and to give the project a deeper, richer walnut tone. We also stain walnut lumber, like the table in the video below for the same reasons. I think the stain does an excellent job of bringing the entire project together, while not hiding the walnut lumber.

Click on the video below to see how the walnut looks after it is stained and finished.

9 Spoons

David Fisher - Carving Explorations - Mon, 05/06/2024 - 5:15pm
A little more color in this group, partly because of the wood species of the crooks I found and partly because I was itching to experiment more with milk paint. So, all of the paint on these is milk paint, … Continue reading
Categories: Hand Tools

toy/blanket chest pt IX..........

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 05/06/2024 - 3:51am

The light at the end of the tunnel is shining bright. It is so bright it is blinding me. That means I'm wrapping up the loose ends on the chest. I could have finished it today but I quit the shop early. I am willing to bet a lung that I will be done with it tomorrow. The one caveat will be how well I understand the instructions for installing the lid stay.

 it still fits

This is the first thing I tired when I got to the shop this AM. It was still the slip fit I had yesterday. 

this woody putty sucks

This stuff sanded off easily but it didn't feel hard and dry this AM. I'll have to keep an eye on it going forward from here.

base cut out time

I have used my jigsaw to saw out the base on another project (like this one) and it didn't go smoothly. It was hard to secure the base and not have the jigsaw vibrate the base like crazy. Decided to saw out the base by hand.

 two saws

The japanese saw (azebiki) is for sawing the long straight edge. The coping saw is for the curved ends.

 first long side done

I positioned the straight edge on the pencil so the saw cut would be in the waste side. I did all the straight cuts first and then the end curves.

last one

No hiccups with the straight cuts. All of them have the pencil lines left for me to rasp down to.

 base cut out done

I was going to use my oscillating spindle sander to smooth the curved ends but nixed it. I didn't feel like fighting it to get the sander out and on the work table. I used rasps and sand paper to do all the cleaning and smoothing of the cut out.

The sawing with the coping saw went well. I was concerned about it because I don't have a lot of time on the pond using one. The first one was the worse but still on the waste side. By the time I got to the last one I had a consistent saw kerf parallel to the pencil line.


I glued in blocks in each corner with white glue just before lunch. That way they would be set up enough so I could saw out the base.

 went quickly

The curved cuts didn't come out square. They weren't horribly out but I didn't have any hiccups squaring them up. The shaping and smoothing of the base went pretty quick. I don't think it took an hour. Don't know for sure because I got in a rhythm and knocked it without stopping to ooh and aah over it.

last one done

I didn't go nutso on the shaping the curves dead nuts on the pencil lines. Instead I eyeballed it for smooth, flowing transition from the bottom into the straight edge.

 base still fits

Got my first look see at the base and the chest as one. I like the proportions of the two and it looks to be a good height for Leo and Miles to get their toys from. 

 sneak peek

Not much left to put a check mark in the done column. Screw the base to the chest, install the lid stay, with the final step screwing in the hinges. McMaster said the screws I ordered shipped yesterday so I may get them tomorrow. I also ordered screws from Lee Valley along with some cast iron handles. Don't know when the LV order will get here. Supplies may have a say with the check mark.

 the gap

The gap isn't as wide as I thought it would be. I have the chest pushed up tight to the other end so all the gap is at this end and side.

 the other end

I am ok with this as it is. I fudged the chest R/L adjusting the gap to where it was minimal 360. I think I will still put a 1/4 round or cove molding on the top of the base. That will close off and hide the gaps. The only boo boo with that is the base is square but the chest isn't. Doing the miters for that might be a Royal PITA.

accidental woodworker

Check your edge

Giant Cypress - Mon, 05/06/2024 - 3:48am

When sharpening, here’s the best method I know of to see what’s going on with the tool. It’s a jeweler’s loupe, with a built-in LED.

These are ridiculously inexpensive. If you go to eBay, and do a search for “20x led loupe”, a ton of search results will come up. Today (6 May 2024), I found one for $7.99, shipped to my door.

There’s often chatter about woodworkers looking at their edges with a magnifying glass, as if it was a bad thing, a sign of OCD, or a waste of time. I think it’s the most direct way of seeing what happens to your edge as you sharpen, and a faster way of seeing if you have a sharp edge than feeling for a burr, looking for the line of light, or any other of the more acceptable methods.

Here’s an example of what you can see when you use one of these loupes. This is the back of a 24 mm Japanese chisel after I’ve used a 1000 grit waterstone on it. You can see the scratches from the waterstone on the back.

And here’s the back after using medium and fine grit natural Japanese waterstones. The scratches are nearly gone, and the overall surface is smooth.

As you can (literally) see, it’s easy to monitor your progress, and when you’re done with the current step in the sharpening process so you can move on to the next one.

In addition to being able to see what’s going on with the surface as you go up through the grits of your sharpening routine, seeing nicks and edge damage is trivially easy. Here’s an example of small nicks in the edge of a chisel that are obvious when looking directly at the tool.

I can see these nicks using the “line of light” test without using a loupe. But when I first started figuring out what a sharp edge was, looking at the edge under magnification let me know where the line of light should be, which then taught me how to use the line of light test. And even then, it’s not any faster than using a loupe.

Again, I don’t know why anyone would disparage the idea of directly examining the edge when sharpening. It’s easy and fast, which I’m sure is what we all want our woodworking tasks to be.


An Unplugged Woodworker - Sun, 05/05/2024 - 11:01am

I realize it has been a while since last I posted anything, but rest assured, I am back in the saddle again! In my previous blog post, I had just returned from the Society of American Period Furniture Makers (SAPFM) Annual Conference in New Bern, NC, where I had the pleasure of attending a linenfold carving demonstration by Mary May. After a short visit to Seattle to visit my daughters and granddaughter, I set out to build another joined chest, this time with cherry linenfold panels.

With the oak stock for the front of the chest roughed out, I determined the width of the cherry panels. The oak legs are roughly 1-1/8 inches thick by 2-1/4 inches wide. The oak top and bottom rails are 4 inches / 3 inches wide, respectively, by 31-1/2 inches long and 3/4 inch thick. The oak muntins are 5-1/4 inches wide by 14 inches long by 3/4 inch thick. The overall chest (excluding the lid) is 34 inches wide by 15-1/4 inches deep by 24 inches high. Given that The panels rest in a 1/4 inch wide by 3/8 inch deep groove, the center cherry panel is 8-1/8 inches wide by 13-1/4 inches long by 3/4 inch thick. The left and right cherry panels are 6-3/4 inches wide by 13-1/4 inches long by 3/4 inch thick. Whew!

As with most joined chests, there are a lot of mortise and tenon joints. For the most part, I like to use a 3/8 inch thick barefaced tenon with the tenon slightly out of plumb. The tenons at the top and bottom of the muntins are but 1/4 inch, centered on the end of the board.

Now for some linenfold action. 

I started by cutting a 1-1/8 inch wide rebate around the perimeter of each panel, leaving about 1/4 inch thickness around the perimeter. 

Steps with rounded sides using a plow plane and a round molding plane gave the illusion of folded cloth. A hollow molding plane to the left and right of the panel center helped further the illusion.

At this point, out come the carving tools! (1) To carve the scrolls at the ends, I used a 10mm #41 V-tool, 20mm #5, 10mm #7, and 6mm #3 straight gouges, a 1-1/4” bench chisel, a mallet, a pencil, and a couple of rifflers. (2) Pencil in the scroll across the width of the raised area of the panel. (3) Bevel the end of the raised area as shown, curving down to the deeper fold. Redraw the scroll. (4) Note the red and blue lines. Using a V-tool, incise a line along the red lines. Make sure NOT to cut beyond the blue lines. (5) Make sure to leave the pencil line visible. Cut just to the side of it as shown. (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) Remove the center section using the V-tool, gouge, and chisel. Take this area all the way down to the level of the perimeter rebate. (12, 13) Using gouges, round the corners of the scroll, getting as close to the pencil line as possible. (14, 15) With a small gouge, hollow out the scrolls to form the folds. (16) Use a small gouge and perhaps rifflers to further clean and form the folds. (17) Most importantly, maintain an unbroken scroll.

The above is for the two side panels. The center panel uses the same techniques. I will let you decide how!

With the face frame complete, I turned the corner with some narrow spalted maple panels. I found this maple board in an antique store in Monroe, Georgia. It spoke to me.

For the back panel of the chest, I used a variation of a construction technique from the Savell Shop in 17th-century Braintree, MA. I learned of this technique through an article in a 1996 edition of American Furniture by Peter Follansbee and John Alexander (Seventeenth-Century Joinery from Braintree, Massachusetts: The Savell Shop Tradition). The back panel slides up from the bottom via grooves in the legs. An offset bottom rail helps secure the panel via pegs. Although the back bottom rail can be tricky, this has become my preferred method!

Here is a photo of the John Savell chest.

Here is my version of the joint at the back bottom rail.

Although the Savell method calls for a groove in the front bottom rail, please realize I am using 3/4 inch stock for my face frame. Therefore, I added a similar bottom rail just behind the face frame. The tongue and grooved floorboards sit atop these rails, secured with wooden pegs.

My panel has double bevels to mate with the 3/4-inch thick rails, as the rails, legs, and panel are all in the same plane. It should go without saying that the floor goes in before the back panels are slid into place and secured.

The lid overhangs the chest 1/4 inch in the back and 1 inch to the sides and front. 3/4 inch thick cleats help prevent any warpage. The lid is attached using snipe hinges.

I finished the chest with boiled linseed oil and turpentine (50:50), adding a few drops of shop-made walnut dye.

It may have seemed like a long wait, but I believe this chest was worth it. Thanks for your patience!

toy/blanket chest pt VIII..........

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 05/05/2024 - 3:34am

 Closing in on the finish line with the chest. Last night I was thinking about getting handles for it. Today moving the chest on and off the workbench was tiring and awkward. The size of the chest precludes being able to pick it up as is and move it around. That is with it empty too - moving it even partially full isn't going to happen sans handles. Chest handles,  or at least the ones I searched for, didn't do much for me. Making wooden ones so far hasn't borne any fruit neither. I have the rest of the month to think of something. 

 it is surviving

I took the base apart and put it back together twice without any hiccups. The knot is still solidly attached. At the end of the day I took it apart and back together 6 times.


Changed my mind on the bearers for the chest. Glued and screwed I think they will be able to do their intended job.

 not fitting

I want the tails/pins to be as gap free as possible. I have wiggle room because this will painted but still. Because the chest isn't square I have the base on and I marked top edge of the base where I need to remove some wood for it to fit.


I planed this taper with my Record shoulder plane. I only had to plane the part of the base above the bearer. That is why I installed them before I tried to fit the base.


It took two planing runs before I got the base to slip over the chest. I was happy with the fit and the gap was almost nothing. I was looking at it upside down and the real eyeballing will be after it is glued and screwed to the chest.

 hide glue

I could have used white glue but opted for hide. I didn't need the open time but I might have to knock it apart later for some reason.

still fit

Glued and cooking and it still fits. I left the base on the chest for 20 minutes to allow it to form itself to the chest bottom.

 sizing the lid

The lid will overhang the front and sides by 1". I wanted the two boards of the lid to be the same width. So I measured from the glue joint out to the edges so both were the same.

 laid out

Used big Red to knife the ends.

 knife line

I sawed about a 1/8" off the knife line. 

 planed to the knife line

I got the ends square to the front/rear edges but it didn't matter here. With the chest out of square the overhang will hide it. If the lid was flush I would have had to matched the lid to the chest. It was good practice squaring up a large panel - 19" x 37 1/2".

 what is this called?

I like this and it is something that I usually put on projects like this that it could go on. I put it on here mostly so things won't fall off the back edge. No telling what the boys will do or use this for.

 screw gauge

I needed some #4 screws and this box has a mixture of several sizes. I got this gauge when I was 22(?) at Elridge Hardware store in Norwich Conn. I couldn't find enough screws so I ordered a couple boxes from McMaster-Carr.

 setting the hinges

Made sense to me to fix the hinge leaf on the lid first and then onto the edge of the chest. 

 only 3 screws

Each hinge needs 7 screws and 3 was sufficient to check the placement of them. I took them off after I was satisfied with them.

 nailed it

This is why I did the hinges now. I wanted the back edge of the lid to be flush or a wee bit proud of the back. I am a a frog hair proud. No problem with the hinges opening and closing. I think using the 3rd one in the middle is definitely needed due to the size/weight of the lid.


I changed the overhang on the front. One inch looked to be a bit too much to my eye so I changed it to 3/4".

 glued and cooking

I didn't put any screws in this but I might do that tomorrow. The glue bond should be ok with keeping this attached.

 end grain

Sanded the end grain up to 220. I got them smooth and even and when painted the paint will look even and smooth too.

 pitch pocket

Paint doesn't adhere/cover pine pitch pockets. I will dig this out and fill it with a dutchman.


It had been several hours since I applied this wood putty and it still hadn't hardened. Fingers crossed that it will be so come tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

The Latest Conversation Podcast (not woodworking)

The Barn on White Run - Sat, 05/04/2024 - 10:59am

I had another invigorating conversation this week with my long time friend (almost 40 years) broadcaster Brian Wilson, who though retired can’t quite kick the habit.  It’s posted on his podcast Now For Something Completely Different.  No, I will not provide the link to avoid the accusation of imposing my worldview on you.

This time we got even more philosophical and metaphysical than usual, with critiques of the current state of affairs in the culture and polity.

As always, if a pungent exchange of radical ideas is not your thing, avoid it.  You have been warned.

Categories: Hand Tools

Nine in the (New) Kiln

David Fisher - Carving Explorations - Sat, 05/04/2024 - 8:35am
I’ve mentioned before that I use a light bulb kiln to cure the oil on my spoons and bowls. My old kiln got kicked around a bit during the move, so I decided to convert my old shop heater cover … Continue reading
Categories: Hand Tools

toy/blanket chest pt VII...........

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 05/04/2024 - 3:25am

 Another good day in the shop and today I actually met my goals. My wife will be painting the chest so I don't have to go nutso putting shellac on it. That will save me a lot of $$, time, and calories. I will sand it up to 180 for the paint. But getting back to the chest, there isn't much left to do. Put the lid and the base on and install the hinges and the lid stay and it will be done.

I resisted the urge

No surprises taking the clamps off. Nothing relaxed, moved, or said aah.

 waiting for me this AM

Amazon said this was coming yesterday and then said it would be the next day. It came sometime after 2030 last night to 0700 this AM. I noticed that lately the shipping from Amazon Prime is touch and go with it mostly being OTL (out to lunch). My wife is fuming over Prime because they haven't shipped her new cell phone cover. Said it was out for delivery and then said oops, it just shipped. 

This lid stay isn't a gas strut lid stay. The circular part of it is what keeps the lid from slamming shut. The instructions don't give a lot detail on how it works but the ones for the installation are clear enough.

one long side overhang is too much

The chest is a 1/4" out of square on the diagonals. Thankfully it isn't something that is visible and will have zero effect on its use as a toy box or blanket chest. Because of the whack job squaring I did I had to oversize the lid more than I would. One long side tapers from almost 3/8" at the wide end to 3/16" on the short end. I put a flush trim bit in the router and flushed the bottom to the chest.

 4x24 belt sander

Before I got into handplanes I used this sander to flatten my glue ups. I was pretty good at and I used it here to flush the pins/tails and smooth out the sides. This is a powerful tool and it will easily go south on you if you aren't paying attention. I had to clamp the chest to the lally column because the sander wanted to send it shooting across the cellar floor.

 not good looking

Glad that this will be painted because this end panel doesn't look good. In fact none of the sides rate a grade better a F-.

 tails are seated

All of the tails are seated on all four corners. The baselines are chipped out (from knifing them) and that makes it look like there are gaps. I'll be filling them in with wood putty.

 base stock

The main goal for today was to get the base done and dry fitted to the base.

 brown knot

The worse kind to deal with. Red knots tend to stay in place whereas brown ones dry, shrink, and fall out. I wicked in a lot of super glue around the edges - fingers crossed on that. I'll put this one on the back of the chest.

 lunch bell just rang

I was going to go with one big tail in the middle but I had to revise that. The brown knot didn't like the one tail idea.

the PM session

Went for a short walk after lunch in spite of the dark clouds. No rain clouds on the radar but I still didn't want to chance it so it was about 1/2 of what I would walk on a sunny day. Got the last of the pins chopped and ready to see if they would go together off the saw.

 off the saw

I made this a 16th and one frog hair wider in both directions than the chest. If there are any gaps they will be hidden with a cove molding.

 the brown knot

I didn't have any hiccups sawing the tail through the knot. When I laid the board down on the bench it popped off. I scraped it and the hollow in the tail and superglued it back in place again.

 got it on dry

The base was tighter and harder to get on the chest than I thought it would be. One corner is the Achilles heel and it is probably the long out of square diagonal too. Not sure how to deal with that but I'll figure out something. I also will saw out the cutout in the base after it has set.

 bearers sawn out

Not sure if I will stick with these. They are a 1/2 x 3/4 and they look wimpy to my eye now that I see them with the base and the chest all together.

 got everything

 I got the hinges for the chest and that is it for supplies. I don't need anything else to complete it. Got my green sanding block - I left special instructions for it but I wasn't sure it would happen. 

 tool care wax

Giving this a try out. The instructions say it only takes a dab to protect a tool. I don't have a rust problem in my shop but I have been known to spill coffee on them. I hope this does the trick with that hiccup.

accidental woodworker

toy/blanket chest pt VI...........

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 05/03/2024 - 3:29am

 In spite of having an AM appt I still got a lot done today. I kind of liked having the first appt of the day too. Traffic going in at 0630 was minimal and not much worse coming home. The only hit was the cafeteria opened late so I couldn't get breakfast. I brought a banana nut muffin and a coffee at Starbucks. My next appt is for 0730 in 3 months. I think I'll try to get appointments early in the morning. It leaves a lot of the day to devote to the shop.

 dovetail clamping caul

These would be a lot better if the fingers were in the shape of a dovetail but they worked ok as is.

ready for glue

I sanded the interior of the chest with 100 grit paper. I got two rags to wipe up the glue. On to the next batter.

 hide glue

I thought of using white glue but nixed it. This is a large glue up and it will take a while to get glue on the tails/pins. The extra set time was needed for this.


Lots of clamps but it went off hiccup free. There wasn't much glue squeeze and I was expecting a lot of it too.

 bottom panel

There are two possible ways to attach the bottom panel to the chest. The panel is oversized and I'll flush it after the chest is cooked. I can screw it to the bottom of the chest or.....

 .....or insert it

I could put bearers around the inside perimeter and attach the bottom panel to them. I could do that so the bearers could be on top or the bottom of the panel. I decided that gluing and screwing it to the bottom of the chest is the best way to go.

 closed up

All of the tails looked like they were fully seated. However, there are a few that I'm not sure on. The glue line is dark and I won't know for sure if they seated until after I plane and flush them.

 questionable one

Fingers crossed on this one of three.


The diagonals are just shy of an 1/8" off from each other. I accepted it as is because I couldn't see any way to get them to agree and clamp the tails until they were seated. It is less than an 1/8" over almost 3 feet (35 1/2").

 final size of the bottom

The workbench is unusable until tomorrow. I am not going to move it while it is cooking.

 picture frame

I used the vise in the sharpening bench to start on the next picture frame I need. I sawed out the inside frame from scraps left over from the chest project.

 reference edge

It was too awkward to grab my usual bench planes so I used the woodies that were on the set up table to the left. Established a flat, straight, and square reference edge before I ripped the frame parts to width.

 spun like a helicopter rotor

Planed a slight hollow in the middle with the #3 and planed it with the #7. The straight edge rubs on the ends now telling me it is flat and straight.

 practice frame

I got confused about the inside lengths of this frame. I couldn't sort out the numbers and picture it in the brain bucket. I don't have any full size practice stock so I made a test frame out of some scrap thin poplar stock.

 this ain't going to work

I thought I could figure it out with a dry frame but it wouldn't stay together while I measured it.

 the painting

This is the painting that I what to frame. I want the small (1/2") border to be hidden by the frame. It was trying to figure out this that was giving me headaches.

 figured it out

I super glued and taped the frame together. It held up to my manipulations trying to size the painting within it. The large outer frame has to be the size of the painting minus the 1/2" border. The inner back frame has to be the overall size of the painting. 

 repeat the same theme?

I am thinking of making this frame the same as the first one I did. Both paintings involve turtles and the sea so why not?

 long side reference edges

I had to erase all the layout lines I had on the short side I started with. Finished the 3 reference edges on the remaining frame parts.

 roughing out the miters

Sawed the sides 3/16" over to give me some meat to true up the miters on the shooting board.

 one blow out

I let go of the waste off cut too soon and paid the price. I super glued it back on and planed it smooth and flush. With the upcoming painting it will never be seen or detected.


Not as a good as the last frame I did. It amazes me how little it takes on anyone miter to throw this out of whack.

 the next frame

There is one more painting by my wife's aunt that she likes and wants to keep. However, she wants to choose the frame. That could take a long time so I'll make a frame I think she will like and let it go at that. If she likes it, fine. If she doesn't I'll hang it in the boneyard.

 my frame is ready

I had to stop here because there wasn't anyplace for me to use the miter shooting board.


Thinking of adding two more colors to this frame - red and yellow. Just a hint of them though. No where as much as the dominant colors of gray, black, and white.

accidental woodworker


Subscribe to Norse Woodsmith aggregator - Hand Tools